Want to buy the Best Thermal Scope for your rifle? We have you covered with a comprehensive, constantly updating list of quality Thermal Scopes on the market.

We have all price ranges on our list, so you can be sure to find something in your price range and feature set.

What is thermal imaging?

Thermal imaging is a type of optical technology that measures the amount of heat radiation given off by living objects.

It works by capturing the infrared light that is emitted from the heat of a target, and this is then converted into an electrical signal that creates an image of the target on a display.

Thermal imaging scopes are useful in any kind of lighting condition and can be used during the day and at night, even in total darkness.

They do not require external light sources, are unaffected by glare, and can be used to see through dust, smoke, and fog.

However, they are pretty expensive and may require additional training to interpret the images correctly.

Best Thermal Scopes for 2024

ATN ThOR 4

The ATN ThOR 4 thermal scope is an excellent option for those looking for a reliable thermal scope in 2024.

This thermal scope is packed with features that make it an ideal choice for both hunting and tactical operations.

The 4th generation dual core thermal sensor provides ultra-sensitive detection and better contrasts.

The scope also has recoil-activated video, a one-shot zero, and ultra-low power consumption.

The ATN ThOR 4 features a built-in laser range finder, dual-stream video, and a new ultra-sensitive next-generation thermal sensor which lets you view and record at never before seen high resolution.

ThOR 4 series of thermal scope features a suite of applications like a built-in ballistics calculator, and it features recoil-resistant components and an expandable MicroSD slot that lets you record up to 256 gigabytes of photos and video on your device.

All these features make the ATN ThOR 4 an excellent choice for 2024.

Sig Sauer Echo 3

The Sig Sauer Echo 3 thermal scope is an excellent choice for anyone looking for an affordable, yet high-quality thermal scope.

The Echo 3 offers a wide variety of features that make it a great choice for an all-purpose thermal scope in 2024.

One of the Echo 3’s best features is its reasonable price tag. With two variants available, one with 1-6x magnification and one with 2-12x magnification, it is possible to acquire an excellent thermal scope without breaking the bank.

With 8 color palettes and 6 brightness settings, users are able to adjust the image to fit their needs.

The Sig Sauer Echo 3 also provides excellent battery life and a motion-controlled battery monitoring system, called MOTAC.

This system helps conserve battery life and helps ensure that the optic will power back on when needed.

The Echo 3 utilizes two CR123 batteries that last for up to 6 hours.

Finally, the main eye-catching feature of the Echo 3 is its large open screen. This feature allows users to keep their situational awareness high and makes the optic easier to use on the fly.

These features make the Echo 3 the best overall thermal scope for 2024.

Burris Thermal Riflescope

The Burris BTS 50 Thermal Riflescope is an excellent choice for thermal rifle scopes in 2021.

Its durable design and one-button control make it one of the most user-friendly thermal scopes available on the market.

With a 3.3-13.2 magnification range, a 400×300 pixel thermal sensor resolution, and a 50 Hz refresh rate, the Burris Thermal Riflescope offers a clear sight picture for hunting a variety of animals.

Its Hot Track feature allows the device to quickly and easily recognize the hottest object in the reticle’s zone and stick with it as it moves around.

The Burris Thermal Riflescope is also lightweight and compact, and its mounting system makes it easy to attach to a Picatinny rail.

Burris Thermal Riflescope comes with a 3-year warranty.

This makes it a great option for those who want an affordable and reliable thermal scope for their nighttime shooting setup.

Pulsar Thermion 2 Pro

The Pulsar Thermion 2 Pro is a powerful thermal imaging riflescope that offers a sleek design and a built-in laser rangefinder.

Featuring a 640×480 microbolometer resolution and an AMOLED display with 1024×768 resolution, this scope can detect heat signatures up to 2,000 yards away.

It includes a powerful laser rangefinder with a range of up to 875 yards, Wi-Fi connectivity to upload data to the Stream Vision 2 App, 10 reticle shapes in 9 color modes, Picture-in-Picture mode, and 5 unique shooting profiles.

It also boasts 10 hours of battery life, IPX7 waterproof rating, and can withstand calibers from 12 gauge, 9.3×64, and .375 H&H.

This scope is ideal for hunters who need precision and accuracy in any weather condition.

AGM Rattler TC19

The AGM Rattler TC19 is a great thermal scope for 2024 due to its affordability, impressive detection range, and versatility.

At under $1000, it’s a great value compared to its competitors, with a useful detection range of up to 650 yards.

It also features a FLIR Tau 2 sensor with 384×288 resolution, which allows for very crisp and detailed thermal imaging even at long distances.

The scope can also be used as a riflescope or a handheld monocular, with a digital zoom of up to 8x magnification.

It has the added benefit of being able to be connected to an external 5V battery pack via USB, increasing the usable battery life.

All of this makes the AGM Rattler TC19 a capable and affordable thermal scope for 2024.

Steiner NightHunter S35

The Steiner NightHunter S35 is an ideal thermal scope thanks to its unbeatable combination of features, performance, and price.

It has a high-resolution sensor of 640 x 480, a fast refresh rate of 12 micron/50 Hz, digital zoom of 2x and 8x, a long battery life of 4.5+ hours, and a lightweight 2.25-pound design.

It also offers durable aluminum housing and both first- and second-plane reticles, allowing the user to accurately and precisely identify targets in the dark.

Its price of under $5000 makes it an affordable option for those who need a reliable thermal scope.

With its reliable performance, high-quality components, and reasonable price, the Steiner NightHunter S35 is the perfect thermal.

ATN THOR LTV

The ATN ThOR LTV is a thermal rifle scope that has been gaining popularity in the shooting community because of its great price point.

This scope provides users with a 1280x720p HD display with Black-hot and White-hot modes, a one-shot zero feature for easy adjustments in the field, and 10+ hours of continuous battery power.

It is constructed with a hardened aluminum alloy and has a weather-resistant IP rating, making it prepared to face any adverse weather conditions.

It features the acclaimed 68 MOA circle dot reticle, which is known to offer the most intuitive ranging capabilities available.

With its excellent features and affordable price, the ATN ThOR LTV is perfect for both experienced and novice hunters and shooters alike.

It is a great product that combines both quality and affordability, making it a popular choice for anyone looking for a thermal rifle scope.

Fusion Thermal Avenger 40

Fusion Thermal Avenger 40 is a thermal scope that was designed around the Keep it Simple stupid menu system that Fusion Thermal is known for.

The Avenger 40 features a three-button control system as well as an alloy housing. The 40mm Ultra HD objective lens provides a great sight picture. The sensor is a 384×288 12-Micron thermal sensor and provides a top-notch thermal image.

A quality QD tactical scope mount is included and this optic is backed by a five-year transferable warranty.

What are the benefits of using a thermal scope?

Improved Target Acquisition and Acquisition

Using a thermal scope can drastically improve target acquisition and range.

Thermal scopes help with three things: detection, recognition, and identification.

Thermal imaging requires no light to function, which provides a distinct advantage in dense vegetation, under cloud cover, and during moonless nights.

Thermal scopes can detect targets up to 2,000 yards away, recognize the difference between a hog and a calf or spot a weapon up to 500 yards away, and identify a person or animal up to 200 yards away.

Furthermore, thermal scopes have customizable reticles and color schemes, as well as a one-shot-zero feature and can save profiles for multiple weapons or ammunition.

All of these features help to improve target acquisition and range.

See in Low Light Conditions

Thermal scopes help see in low light conditions by detecting heat emitted by a target and displaying it as a visible image.

This allows people to observe their target clearly, even in complete darkness or foggy weather.

Thermal scopes are also especially useful for hunting because they are not affected by camouflage or other obstructions, and can detect a target’s heat signature at farther distances than night vision scopes.

They can be used during the day or night, while night vision scopes are not designed to be used in daylight.

Detect and Track Moving Targets Easily

Thermal scopes offer a significant advantage in detecting and tracking moving targets.

The key benefit of a thermal scope is its ability to detect heat emitted by an object, which is why they are able to pick up and track moving targets better than other types of scopes.

This means that a thermal scope can be used to detect and track animals, people, vehicles, and other moving objects even in conditions where other scopes might struggle, such as cloudy days, in the brush, and at night.

Thermal scopes come with a wide range of features and capabilities, such as adjustable refresh rates, custom reticles and color palettes, and one-shot-zero capability, all of which support enhanced target acquisition and tracking.

Enhanced Accuracy and Reduced Guesswork

When shooting, accuracy and reducing guesswork are paramount.

A thermal scope can provide just that, as it provides a clearer image of the target and allows for easier ranging.

Thermal scopes are typically equipped with a built-in rangefinder, so you won’t need to switch back and forth between a separate device, like a rangefinder or rangefinding binoculars.

Some of the higher-end devices on the market have the ability to geotag your shot, recording the elevation, location, and speed when it was taken.

Thermal scopes often come with a 4-line crosshair reticle which allows for an easier adjustment for range to target, as opposed to a single-dot reticle which is better suited for short-range accuracy.

The thermal resolution on these scopes is also higher, providing a much clearer image of the target.

On top of this, the scopes are durable and lightweight, making them easy and comfortable to use, and they often have multiple zero settings, allowing you to save various zero settings to change your rifle’s zero with the press of a button.

These scopes can record your best shots and even share them with your friends. All of these features contribute to making the thermal scope a great choice for accurate, ethical shooting.

Ability to View Through Foliage and Other Objects

Thermal scopes provide a distinct advantage for viewing through foliage and other objects because they detect heat rather than relying on light like a night vision scope does.

The thermal scope can detect heat in heavily wooded areas that help animals or people stand out among the vegetation.

It does not need any additional light sources and can be used during the day or night, whereas daylight can potentially damage a night vision scope.

Thermal scopes have a much higher contrast between the target and the rest of the picture, making it easier to see, while night vision does not.

Thermal scopes can cut through camouflage or dense fog, while targets standing still are harder to recognize with traditional scopes.

Increased Safety Due to Target Detection

The use of a thermal scope significantly increases safety by providing the shooter with the ability to detect targets, even in the dark.

Thermal scopes aLLOW the shooter to identify potential threats in low light or no light conditions.

This allows the shooter to make an informed decision before taking any action, reducing the potential for friendly fire or collateral damage.

A wide field of view and long detection range of some thermals scopes allow for greater situational awareness, enabling the shooter to anticipate threats before they become imminent dangers.

Reduced Fatigue for the Eyes

Using a thermal scope reduces fatigue for the eyes by providing a super clear sight picture with a good refresh rate, a compact design, an adjustable refresh rate, and an awesome resolution.

The efficient size and weight of the thermal scope also enable users to enjoy longer use without the burden of carrying a heavy device.

Moreover, the optics of the thermal scope provide up to 6X or 12X magnification with resolutions of up to 640×512, allowing users to have an enhanced visual experience while reducing eye strain.

What to consider when choosing a thermal scope?

Here are a few good ideas to keep in mind while you’re shopping for a thermal scope.

Purpose and use

A thermal scope is an optical device that uses digital sensors and computer processors to measure and display the differences in heat radiation as various colors and contrast.

It is used as a target spotting scope, allowing the user to pick out targets by their heat signature in dark conditions and through weather conditions such as rain, fog, and snow.

Thermal scopes are also known as Forward-Looking Infrared (FLIR) scopes and can be handheld or mounted to a firearm.

They can also be used to record photos and videos, making them a valuable training tool in a tactical setting, or be used to record your hunt.

Price

Thermal scope price ranges are quite wide: you can find some units under the $1,000 mark, but these are rare to find.

Most thermal scopes on the market will cost at least $1,000, and some will exceed $5,000 and even reach up to $10,000.

If you’re looking for the best bang for your buck, you’ll likely be shopping in the $1,200-$2,500 range, but if you have the budget for it, then you could even look at some of the higher end models.

It’s important to keep in mind that these are not night-vision units, which can cost only a few hundred dollars since thermal scopes depend on a rare-earth element called germanium, which supplies temperature-sensitive glass for them.

Features

When choosing a thermal scope, it is important to consider several key features.

These include lens size, zoom, refresh rate, battery life, Wi-Fi capability, additional features such as Bluetooth technology, streaming, laser rangefinders, GPS, compasses, and ballistic calculators, and video recording capabilities.

Lens size will depend on the range you need to shoot at, while zoom will determine how close you can get to the target.

Refresh rate is important in order to get a clear picture, and battery life will determine how long you can use the scope without interruption.

Wi-Fi capability will allow you to stream video and connect to other devices, while additional features like Bluetooth, laser rangefinders, GPS, and compasses can add convenience.

Finally, video recording capabilities will allow you to capture and replay images. It is important to consider all of these features in order to choose the best thermal scope for your needs.

Quality and Reliability

Image quality is perhaps the most important, as this will determine how clear and accurate the sight picture is.

You should also look at the range of the scope, and make sure it can detect heat signatures out to the distances you need.

Pay attention to the materials used in the scope’s construction, as they should be extremely high-quality, as well as the pixel pitch and thermal resolution.

In addition to these qualities, reliability is also an important factor to consider. Look for a scope with a generous warranty length and positive customer support reviews.

Certain thermal scopes can come with bonus features such as Bluetooth technology, Wi-Fi streaming, and video recording capabilities.

While these features can be helpful, they are not necessary for good operation.

Ultimately, it is important to choose a thermal scope that provides the features you need at a reasonable price.

Optical Quality

Optical quality is of paramount importance when choosing a thermal scope. Good optics will ensure that you get a clear, high-quality image with minimal distortion.

The lens should be made of specialized germanium crystals, which absorb less light from the infrared spectrum.

This will allow you to capture more detail at higher magnifications. A larger objective lens, usually in the 50-60mm range, will also provide more signal and allow for better resolution.

It’s also important to consider the refresh rate of the thermal scope. A higher refresh rate means you will be able to detect movement more easily and accurately.

All of these features are essential for getting the most out of your thermal scope and ensuring you have the best possible experience.

Reticle and Zeroing

When choosing a thermal scope, there are a few important considerations that come into play. The reticle is one of the most important features to consider.

Reticle options vary from model to model and usually have different colors and styles that can also be selected to match your environment and target type.

Some reticles even feature a bullet-drop compensator, which can be a great aid to long-distance shooting.

Zeroing your thermal scope is also much easier than zeroing a traditional optic. Many thermal scopes offer a one-shot-zero feature, allowing you to set an accurate zero with a single shot.

Some models even allow you to save multiple presets, so you can have precise zeroes for different loads of ammunition on hand.

Overall, reticles and zeroing are two of the most important considerations when choosing a thermal scope.

Different reticle options and colors can help you better identify your target, and the one-shot-zero feature makes it easy to set accurate zeroes for multiple loads of ammo.

Field of View

The field of view of a thermal scope is the area the scope will allow you to see.

It is measured in degrees and typically ranges from 4 to 14 degrees, depending on the scope’s magnification.

Generally, the higher the magnification, the narrower the field of view. The field of view is important since it helps you recognize your target from farther away.

With a wider field of view, you can see more of the area around you, making it easier to spot targets.

The refresh rate of the scope also affects how quickly you can recognize targets and movements. Higher refresh rates allow you to see changes to the scene faster.

Weight and size

Weight and size are important considerations. With any optic weight can add unneeded stress to the shooter and weigh down your gun while trying to aim.

Making accurate shots is much easier with a lighter firearm and won’t fatigue the shooter.

Sensitivity and Amplification

Sensitivity is a key characteristic of thermal scopes that determines how well the scope can detect heat signatures of objects at a certain distance.

The higher the sensitivity, the further away the thermal scope can detect heat. Amplification is another key factor in determining the range and performance of thermal scopes.

Amplification increases the brightness of the image, allowing for better detection of heat signatures in low-light conditions.

It also helps to magnify the image and make it easier to identify objects at a distance.

Batteries

When choosing a thermal scope, it is important to consider the battery life, charging time, and replacement battery costs.

Thermal scopes typically operate on lithium-ion batteries that are easy to replace and charge and the battery life for most quality thermal scopes is about 8 hours, which is normally sufficient for a single hunting trip.

However, if a person is going on a longer trip, a spare battery will be necessary.

Some thermals can use external battery sources, which can mix disposable and external battery sources.

When comparing thermal scopes, it is important to take into account battery life as it can make a huge difference in the field.

Thermal scopes have become more efficient, but battery life generally ranges from three hours to twenty-four hours.

Some thermals come with spare batteries while others are rechargeable.

It is important to read up on the scope before purchase to make sure the battery life will last as long as needed, also consider the cost of replacement batteries.

Mounting options

Mounting options for thermal scopes vary depending on the specific scope.

Thermal scopes can either be designed to be mounted directly onto a rifle’s Picatinny rail or require special gear, such as a mounting base with rail segmentation and scope rings with the correct mounting height.

Clip-on thermal devices can also be used to mount a thermal scope onto a rifle that only has dovetails.

Monoculars, on the other hand, are handheld or mounted on helmets and are used purely for observation.

They cannot be zeroed and do not feature reticles, unlike traditional thermal scopes.

Some examples of thermal scopes include the Burris Thermal Riflescope, SIG Echo3, Trijicon REAP-IR, Thermion XP50, ATN Thor 4 384, AGM Python TS50-640, and Steiner Close Quarter’s Thermal Sight.

Each of these scopes has its own mounting considerations, so it is important to do research on the specific scope before making a purchase.

FAQ

Nostalgia, desirability and collectability are closely linked, and such is the case with what has arguably become one of America’s most popular wartime weapons, a rifle that Lt. Gen. George S. Patton, Jr. once called “The greatest battle implement ever devised.”

He was, of course, referring to the M1 Garand, the primary shoulder arm of U.S. troops during World War II and beyond. In fact, the Garand continued to serve our GIs throughout the Korean War and was reenlisted as a sniper rifle in Vietnam. And although there was a time when WWII vets didn’t have a choice of Garands—they simply had to take the gun that was issued to them—today’s shooters and collectors can select from varying conditions, styles and price ranges. After all, with more than 6 million M1 Garands produced between 1936 and 1957, the “U.S. Rifle, Caliber .30, M1,” as it was officially known, is still very much with us.

Although no longer our official battle rifle, the M1 Garand continues to prove itself as a National Match gun and in events that include CMP and 3-Gun competitions, not to mention reenactments, casual target shooting, hunting and collecting.

In fact, it is as a collectible that the M1 Garand has come into its own in a way that might surprise many who simply saw it as a rugged, no-nonsense wartime tool. Today’s surviving M1s have become much more than that as the supply of good shootable and collectible versions is starting to dry up. Consequently, prices have been rising over the past few years. Much of this increased demand is due to the realization of the Garand’s growing historical significance, which is being kept alive in movies and on TV.

Obviously, the M1 Garand was not a major factor in Hollywood before World War II, but beginning with The Story of G.I. Joe (1945), and escalating with such post-war blockbusters as To Hell and Back with Audie Murphy (1955), The Longest Day with John Wayne (1963) and Saving Private Ryan (1998), among others, the memory of the Garand continues to be kept front and center, thanks to DVD and cable TV.

Likewise, these same factors are at play in both old and new TV programs such as Combat! (1962-67), M*A*S*H (1972-83), Band of Brothers (2001) and The Pacific (2010). Thus, while the demand for Garands keeps increasing, the number of existing originals is diminishing—especially those with GI parts.

This is especially frustrating for those who are looking for the Holy Grail of M1 Garands: a gun with all matching armory components. To be sure, there was a time when every M1 Garand had all matching parts, original wood and no import stamps. But those cherished examples existed just prior to and during World War II—and only as each rifle rolled off the assembly line.

As soon the Garand went into battle, it immediately became subject to the mix-and-match vicissitudes of military armorers whose job it was to keep these accurate and rapid-firing rifles battle ready. Parts were swapped and stocks were changed with no thought that these firearms would one day become collectible.

Of course, some perfect specimens still can be found, but these are, for the most part, guns that saw little or no battlefield use or were otherwise preserved in their “as-issued” state. Most are in museums or private collections, and when they come on the market, their prices reflect their scarcity.

All of which brings up the question of which Garand represents the best value? The answer is, it all depends on the individual. After all, a reenactor is not going to drag a minty original through the mud or rake it over a barbed wire fence.

On the other hand, I have no compunction about taking my re-Parkerized Garand with its new Criterion barrel out on a coyote hunt. And even if it’s a used collectible with all GI parts, it won’t hurt to take it out to the range. I mean, these rifles were made for combat. But before we get into the choices of Garands available today, a brief overview about the rifle might be helpful.

The M1 Garand derives its name from its inventor, a Canadian named Jean Cantius Garand, who was born on January 1, 1888, in Quebec and eventually emigrated to the United States, where he became a naturalized citizen and anglicized his first name to John.

It was Gen. Douglas MacArthur who brought young Garand to Springfield Armory, where he subsequently developed the Model 1 rifle (hence “M1”)—a “gas operated, clip fed, semi-automatic shoulder weapon,” to quote from the Army’s field training manual. Designed to replace the Springfield 1903-A3 bolt action, the popularity of Garand’s rifle would become so great that it became synonymous with the inventor’s surname.

Chambered for the standard .30 Government cartridge, the M1 was loaded via an eight-shot, en bloc stamped steel clip, which ejected with a loud “ping” after the last shot was fired. This also locked the bolt open. The rifle was then quickly reloaded by pressing a new loaded clip straight down into the receiver with the thumb, while keeping the bolt pressed back with the fleshy part of the hand.

Once the clip was fully inserted, the hand was quickly lifted, permitting the spring-driven bolt to slam home, chambering a round on the way. However, care had to be taken to make sure the thumb was raised out of the receiver, lest the shooter end up with a blood-blacked thumbnail, which was colloquially known as an “M1 thumb.”

The Garand was officially adopted by the U.S. Army in 1936. It was a timely move, because five years later we entered World War II. Interestingly, only two companies manufactured the M1 Garand during WWII. Springfield was the original producer, but with war imminent, in 1939 Winchester was also contracted to make the M1.

Although numerous minor changes were incorporated throughout the Garand’s existence, one of the most notable occurred in 1940, when the original gas trap system was changed to a gas port.

In addition, rifles produced by both Springfield and Winchester initially featured a thick milled trigger guard with a hole in the rear portion of the guard to enable a steel cleaning rod or similar object to be passed through it to facilitate pulling the guard back and up, in order to lift it out of the barrel and receiver group for disassembly.

However, in 1943 Springfield Armory adopted a stamped steel trigger guard as a cost-savings measure. Winchester, though, retained the milled guard during its entire production run of 513,880 rifles, which ended in 1945. By comparison, Springfield Armory produced slightly more than 3.5 million rifles during WWII.

During the Korean conflict, beginning in 1952, Harrington & Richardson and International Harvester were enlisted along with Springfield Armory to manufacture M1 Garands. These were the only four authorized manufacturers of government-issued M1s; Winchester made Garands only during WWII.

Also during World War II, but before we entered that conflict, a number of “lend-lease” Garands were shipped to our allies, most notably Great Britain. British guns are often marked with a red band painted on the fore-end. However, few Garands were issued to British troops, and of the few authenticated British lend lease guns I have seen, all appeared to have their original issue parts. Many postwar Garands were exported as “surplus” guns and have been returned to the U.S. over the years and bear import marks, which adversely affect their collectibility but not their shootability.

It should be noted that after the Armistice, approximately 4 million Garands—easily two-thirds of the total production—were reconditioned by Springfield Armory. Parts were replaced, guns were re-Parkerized and often rebarreled. Thus, the chances of finding an “as-issued” Garand today is extremely rare, although many collectors are buying original G.I. parts with the correct armory stampings to reassemble an “original” gun. While this isn’t exactly a devious practice, it is becoming an expensive one, as original parts are becoming harder to find and therefore more costly.

There are the only four armory stampings you should find on an M1 Garand: “SA” for guns produced by Springfield Armory, “W.R.A.” for Winchester Repeating Arms, “H.R.A.” or “H&R” for Harrington & Richardson and “IHC” for International Harvester Corp. In addition, the stocks are usually stamped with the government’s “circle P” proofed cartouche (found directly behind the trigger guard and in line with it), the inspector’s stamp and crossed-cannon ordnance marks on the left side of the stock, and the eagle and stars design of the Department of Defense Acceptance stamp.

There may also be a small crossed cannon stamp on the bottom of the pistol grip on Springfield Armory manufactured rifles made during World War II. Of course, these stampings are not always sharp or even legible, and many have been obliterated completely thanks to overzealous cleaning or just normal wear.

Matching armory stampings on all components are important for a collectible Garand but not for a shooter. For a shooter the main criteria are how the gun functions, the condition of the bore and the headspace. And although the most desirable M1s are those made by Winchester, some sellers may charge slightly more for a Garand with a Winchester receiver even though the rest of the parts are not marked “W.R.A.”

As a rule, there is a premium for Garands with all matching parts, even rebuilds. But it is often difficult if not impossible to tell whether a Garand has been reassembled with parts from another gun. Obviously, most of them have. Determining the degree of finish—making sure all the parts have the same amount of wear and that the Parkerizing colors match—is one method. When in doubt, try to find an experienced collector and get a second opinion. And if purchasing a minty gun for a minty price, insist on getting a detailed bill of sale.

Another problem facing Garand purchasers is that, for some unknown reason, many former owners have felt compelled to sand or refinish the stocks, thereby removing or certainly dulling the original stampings. And then there is the matter of stock replacement itself.

I once acquired an otherwise pristine Garand that had been shipped to the Danish Navy, which replaced the original walnut stock with a birch monstrosity that looked like it had been carved with a jackhammer. The first thing I did was to replace the stock with a used GI version I found on eBay. If a government pedigree is not of concern, excellent repro stocks are offered by Boyd’s and Fulton Armory.

As for prices of original Garands, at a recent gunshow in Ventura, Calif., I found an aftermarket mash-up of parts (many from non-G.I. sources) for $600, while at Wally Beinfeld’s Antique Arms Show in Las Vegas two years ago, I saw a pristine, World War II Garand that looked like all it was lacking was the cosmoline. It also carried a $3,750 price tag. In between these two extremes are a number of World War II, Korean and import veterans.

If you want a top-of-the-line, historically correct reconditioned shooter, I’d suggest contacting someone like James River Armory where for approximately $1,250 (Winchesters are slightly higher) you can get an “arsenal reissued” restored Garand with new but properly cartouched stock, many with an accurate Criterion barrel. Miltech offers rebuilt M1 Garands with match-grade barrels for $1,795 plus M1-D Sniper Rifles for $3,250, complete with M84 scope.

Of course, one of the most popular go-to sources for M1 Garands is the CMP or Civilian Marksmanship Program, although recent runs on its reassembled but 100 percent authentic GI guns has been rapidly drying up supplies. Most of the lesser priced (i.e., Rack Grade) guns are currently sold out as are all Winchester Garands, but those still available include Field Grades at $625, Special Grades at $995 (which feature new stocks and Criterion barrels) and M1C Sniper Models (ranging from $1,600 to $3,000 but without scopes or cheek pads).

Still, the thing to remember is that 100 percent original Garands, while costing more, will always appreciate faster. Obviously, if you start to put wear and tear on these old warhorses, their values will diminish appropriately. On the other hand, if you purchase a low- to medium-grade shooter, it will always be worth about what you paid for it and over the long term might even appreciate in value slightly, given the ever declining supply of original M1s.

And keep in mind that the Garand was made to disassemble, so metal parts can easily be replaced, but once a wooden stock is gouged or cracked, it stays that way forever. And to my mind, there is nothing uglier than a rough-textured stock.

So my advice is to buy the very best Garand you can afford, shoot it, enjoy it, treat it with respect and, to paraphrase the old Army adage, take care of your Garand, and it will take care of you.

After spending enough time in the field, aiming at and leading a duck may become second nature. You pull up, know where to shoot, and make a clean shot. This comes with many trial and errors and empty shotgun hulls without much to show for them. In this article, I’ll talk about the science behind how far to lead a duck, and how much margin for error there is.

A shooter needs to lead a duck by .24-5.16 feet to make a clean shot. The two distinct variables that determine how far each duck should be led by are: How far away the duck is, and how fast the duck is flying.

How to aim at a duck

Flight speed and lead distance

How far to lead a duck at 20 yards

How far to lead a duck at 30 yards

How far to lead a duck at 40 yards

Is is hard to shoot a duck?

*Note: as you’ll see later in the article, choke tube selection does not determine the distance a duck should be led by, but instead impacts the margin of error that a hunter can miss by.

How to aim at and lead a duck

To correctly aim at a duck, a hunter must shoot far enough in front of it to allow for the time delay between when the pellets leave the barrel of the gun, and when they arrive at the duck. The distance of how far to lead a duck by is determined by how far away from the hunter the duck is, and how fast the duck is flying.

I was interested in the math and science behind how far to lead a duck (I know, you can say it, I can get a little nerdy sometimes), so I started digging into the numbers. I learned a lot in the process and thought it was interesting enough to publish my findings. Scroll to the bottom of this article to see the calculations and equations I used to create these tables and charts.

Charts showing how far to lead a duck by

The tables below show the midpoint for leading a duck depending upon its flight speed. This represents how far you would need to aim ahead of the duck so it ends up in the exact middle of your pellet pattern. You don’t have to shoot spot on this midpoint to make a clean kill shot, meaning there is some margin of error which is discussed later in this article.

A duck that’s getting ready to land (flying 5 mph)

A duck that’s making an approach (flying 15 mph)

A duck flying by (flying 25 mph)

A duck making a fast pass (flying 40 mph)

Is it hard to shoot a duck?

Shotguns that shoot several pellets at the same time are used to hunt ducks, so there’s a margin of error both ahead of, and behind the midpoint, that would still allow for a clean kill shot. This margin of error is primarily determined by the choke tube used.

In some situations, like when the duck is getting ready to land, it can be easy to shoot a duck. On the other hand, if the bird is further away (30 yards or more), and flying fast (faster than 25 mph), it can be very challenging.

Chart showing inches you could shoot either ahead of or behind a duck and still make a clean kill shot using various choke tubes:

Calculations used in the experiment

There are numerous small variables in every hunting situation. They can’t all be accounted for, so I used the following assumptions for a control baseline in my calculations:

Check out our article about best shot sizes for ducks

• #2 Steele shot traveling 1365 fps
• 12 gauge 30 inch barrel
• Shotgun is patterned correctly
• Light/no wind
• No rain
• Average size duck

Equations used in article

Equation used for midpoint: (B/C) * A = X

A= speed (fps) the duck is traveling at: fps converted from mph

B= distance (ft) from duck (ft): Yards converted to ft

C= pellet speed (fps)

D= time (seconds) for pellets to reach target: (B/C)

X = Distance to lead duck by

Margin for error (inches) equation =

(Size of pellet spread that contains 65-70% of pellets at specified distance in ft) / (2)

Considerations that might impact my results:

• Using a smaller shot size would mean it would take more than 65% to 70% of the shell’s pellets to bring a duck down
• The longer the gun barrel, the tighter the pellet pattern. This can reduce the margin of error while increasing the effective distance
• Shotgun shells with slower/faster pellet speeds would increase/decrease how far a duck would need to be let by
• Larger ducks usually take more/larger pellets to bring down
• Using a 20 gauge would decrease the effective rage

Find the Ducks!

Traps to capture birds can come in as many forms and designs as types of techniques, but they all have the same origin source in that they were constructed to capture food. Trapping fowl of any type was as a whole, not regulated or tracked in any way.

When populations were depleted or the species started showing strains from being trapped, such as when songbirds where in fashion at court for their voices or native species were hunted only for their plumage, regulations and laws were put into place to protect the birds.

Bird Haven

In the middle 1700’s, in the region of Ontario Canada, the native people were hit hard with diseases like TB (Tuberculosis) and Small Pox. The remaining people fled to more populated areas, leaving the land unpopulated and unhunted for about 75 years.

It just happens the opposite was occurring in the bird community, and a certain species had a big boom in growth. In this region of Canada, it was berry rich and predator sparse with a lack of competition for food, so a sweet haven that was perfect for birds to flourish.

Rise of the passenger pigeon

This bird was the passenger pigeon and some of its relatives like doves, and the population rivaled those of the buffalo on the plains of the west. Just one flock could swell to numbers of 2 billion birds. Due to this high number of birds, native peoples begin to move back to the prey rich lands.

This abundance in food with forests untouched by people served the native population quite well and several tribes of the Anishnaube moved into the area, with the strongest being the Ojibway.

In the Columbidae bird family there are about 42 breeds and 310 varieties. The stout bodied bird that has a short neck and slim bill many people think that dove and pigeon can be used for both. But dove is from the French for “peeping” and pigeon from the Germanic name for diving.

The larger types of this family are called pigeons, and the smaller ones are doves. But in common terms, the rock dove is what most people refer to as a pigeon and its subspecies are domesticated and the feral ones in the cities.

The passenger pigeon, at one time was thought to be one of the most numerous species on earth. One colony recorded in 1871 by ornithologist A. Wilson was reported to have over 100 million breeding birds.

Evolution of bird trapping

The type of bird and its habits help explain how the bird trap evolved to be most efficient at providing catch as a food source. In the thick Canadian forests not all traps are successful. Traps like the deadfall, spear based traps, or the scissors derivatives do not seems to be that effective for the environment.

The pole was meant for birds to serve as a perch. With birds such as grouse or grosbeaks they are more ground birds that fly straight up into the protective trees if startled to hide. As the passenger pigeons are perching birds, the Ojibwa bird pole snare was developed.

The Ojibwa Bird Pole Snare

Although a primitive trap, it has a design that is quite sophisticated in its elegance.

The basic set up consists of 4 main elements:

The Pole

The main piece is a tall pointed pole, about 4 feet in height that you drill a hole in. The hole is bored so there are no snagging pieces inside. You can use flint like the native people, or a hacksaw.

A cord or rope must go through smoothly and without any resistance. The method a lot of bush craft people use is contributed to Kochanski and it is cutting a hole with a long Bowie or hunting knife.

This method makes more of a conical bore on each side so the cord has a range of motion, you can drill the hole of course. Either method would be functional as long as the walls of the hole are smooth inside. You can use your knife to carve a point at the pole’s top. This will discourage birds from landing atop it, and aim them more towards the trigger stick for a seemingly better perching place.

The Triggering Stick

The next piece is a stick that is long enough and thick enough to let a bird perch on it, preferably non-resinous wood (so no pine or cedar). Think of the dowel rods used in bird cages to gauge the width. This triggering stick will fit into the hole as a plug, keeping the snare open by preventing it from sliding shut until it is activated by a bird’s weight on it.

When the bird lands and pressure is presented on the triggering stick, it will cause it to be released. This will allow it to close the snare and shut it.

The Snare

Through the ages many materials have been used from leather strips, natural twines, to wire. I don’t like wire as its too rigid for this type of snare trap and can get misshaped quite easily. After a few uses, it may not slide closed properly, allowing for your catch to escape, or can bend a few times then just snap right in two.

So the consensus is using cord is the best all around. I like the inner strands from paracord as they have a great tensile strength, will not rot or mildew like other natural cords, and slide pretty well allowing for the snare to shut. If you have no paracord, then most cords will do for a while.

The Weight

For this type of snare to work, the activation of the trigger will need to be countered with a weighting mechanism. There are 2 types of mechanisms that will work. A bent sapling to snap the snare closed when activated, or a rock for weight to pull the snare closed with gravity.

The rock method is the one employed by the Ojibwa as it can’t break or be affected by weather like a sapling. So during the long and harsh winter months, the rock won’t fail making it the best choice.

This is the finished Ojibwa bird pole snare:

Here is a closer view of the trigger, and the way it fits into the pole with the snare set.

This is the properly sharpened tip of the pole, to insure the pigeon or any bird to choose the trigger branch as a landing spot for a safer grip.

One variation on the Ojibwa bird pole snare is to add a toggle clip to keep the bird off raised quite a way off the ground and some say its smoother and safer for the prey, but it is not needed. The Ojibwa people used the Ojibwa bird pole snare for many centuries and it is still a reliable trap to this day, so either way is fine.

Using a toggle does insure the birds legs don’t break when the snare is closed, so it is a more humane method. It also may mean the bird, depending on its type, may escape if a particularly strong breed.

Setting the Trap

It is a fairly simple set up. It would be better to practice a few times to make sure your snare line feeds smoothly and the trigger fits snug enough to not fall too soon, but loose enough to be triggered when needed.

A note: To stop the rock for pulling the snare by gravity alone, I have seen people put a knot in the snare close to the rock. This is not advised as it may prevent the snare cord from sliding correctly and let your bird loose.

If the trigger stick is snug enough, you will not need any knots or special ties to keep it from shutting before being triggered by the bird’s weight.

This is what the trap looks like when it is set properly:

As the bird lands here (marked with red), the weight will offset the balance of the stick that has been placed in the pole’s burrowed hole, dislodging it, and letting the rock pull the snare shut as seen below.

One way to entice birds to land and perch is to scatter grains and berries around the stand, or place a leaf with seed in the snare hole. As they come in for landing they will perch first to survey the land for competition, or predator hiding spots.

Have your trap close enough to trees that the birds will fly down onto your perch, but not too close to the local foliage that they just go straight to the seed or bait that you have placed to lure them in.

As stated before pigeons and other migratory birds that perch will be a good prey for this type of snare. This trap was made to harvest the larger passenger pigeon, so it can catch a good sized bird. Rock doves and grouse can also be caught with this type and a few more birds quite effectively.

Final Thoughts

As laws and seasons can differ in many states, you will want to check with your local Wildlife and hunting Bureau for the legality side. For a post collapse situation, using a trap such as the Ojibwa snare can mean life or death in the rough terrain of places like Canada and Alaska.

Ah, the sizzle of a perfectly seared steak, the juicy tenderness of a succulent chicken breast, or the mouthwatering aroma of a slow-roasted pork shoulder – there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of a well-cooked piece of meat.

But as any seasoned chef will tell you, achieving that perfect balance of flavor, texture, and safety is all about cooking meat to the correct internal temperature. Like any other meat, venison brats has to be cooked to the proper temperature in order to be both delicious and safe to eat.

What Is The Right Internal Temperature For Venison Brats?

The right internal temperature for venison brats is 155°F (68.3°C). The temperature should be taken with a food thermometer in the thickest part of the meat. It is important to note that the temperature should be taken in the center of the meat, not the edges.

How To Cook Venison Brats To The Right Internal Temperature

The best way to ensure that venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature is to use a thermometer. However, a typical method would be to cook it at a temperature of 180°F (82.2°C) for about 20 minutes.

It is also important to keep in mind that the internal temperature of venison brats will continue to rise after it is removed from the heat source. Therefore, it is important to remove the venison brats from the heat source when the thermometer reads 155°F (68.3°C). This will ensure that the venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature.

Why Is Internal Temperature Important?

Cooking food to the right internal temperature is essential for food safety. Bacteria can cause foodborne illness when food is not cooked to the right temperature.

Venison Brats is particularly susceptible to foodborne illness because it can contain higher levels of bacteria than other meats. Therefore, it is important to ensure that venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature in order to avoid foodborne illness.

When Cooking Venison Brats, It Is Important To Keep The Following Tips In Mind:

1. Marinate your venison brats in your favorite sauce or marinade overnight for maximum flavor. 2. Preheat your grill to medium-high heat before cooking. 3. Grill your venison brats for 8-10 minutes, flipping once, or until they reach an internal temperature of 160°F. 4. Serve your grilled venison brats on a toasted bun with your favorite toppings. 5. Enjoy!

Venison Brats Recipes

Recipe 1. Venison Brat and Kraut Recipe

Ingredients:

-1 package venison brats -1 large jar sauerkraut -1 can beer -1 onion, sliced -1 tablespoon caraway seeds

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. In a large roasting pan, combine venison brats, sauerkraut, beer, onion, and caraway seeds. 3. Bake in preheated oven for 45 minutes, or until brats are cooked through. 4. Serve on a bed of sauerkraut with a side of beer. Enjoy!

Recipe 2. Venison Brats with Herbed Goat Cheese

Ingredients:

-1 package venison brats -4 ounces herbed goat cheese -1 tablespoon olive oil -1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary -1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme -1/2 teaspoon kosher salt -1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. In a small bowl, combine goat cheese, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper. 3. Cut a slit lengthwise down the center of each brat. Fill each brat with goat cheese mixture. 4. Place brats on a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until brats are cooked through. 5. Enjoy!

Sources

1. Hughes, C. (2018, September 6). Venison Beer Bratwurst (a.k.a. Deer Beer Brats). Broken Arrow Ranch. https://brokenarrowranch.com/blogs/recipes/venison-beer-bratwurst-a-k-a-deer-beer-brats#:~:text=Simmer%20the%20bratwurst%20for%20about,over%20low%20heat%20until%20ready. 2. Pan-Fried Venison Bratwurst. (2018, May 13). How to Cook Meat. https://howtocookmeat.com/recipes/pan-fried-venison-bratwurst/#:~:text=Check%20the%20internal%20temperature%20of%20the%20bratwurst.&text=Once%20they%20reach%20155%20degrees%20F%2C%20remove%20them%20from%20the,for%20a%20few%20more%20minutes.

As I mentioned in my previous articles on patterning my shotgun, the basics of turkey hunting, and camouflaging my shotgun, I’m in the process of preparing for an upcoming turkey hunt during Memorial Day weekend. For my next article in my series on turkey hunting, I’m writing about the differences between some of the various types of turkey calls commonly used by turkey hunters. Since spring turkey season overlaps with mating season for turkeys in most of the United States, imitating turkey vocalizations is the most popular and most effective technique used by turkey hunters to call in a big gobbler. There are a wide variety of turkey calls available on the market today, and I hope to provide some useful information on the advantages and disadvantages of each in this article.

Before we begin, please note that I’m not necessarily endorsing any particular type or brand of turkey call in this article. Indeed, I haven’t actually used any of them on a turkey hunt yet, so I’m not really in a position to say which type or brand works “best.” Instead, I’m merely presenting some of the pros and cons of each type of call as well as some things to consider when getting ready to purchase one.

The push button call is probably the easiest turkey call to use. Made from wood (primarily walnut) and/or plastic, push button calls can produce realistic sounds imitating turkey hen clucks, purrs, and yelps. Since they are so easy to use, push button calls are very popular among new turkey hunters. Another advantage of the push button call is that a hunter can also easily operate one with only one hand, or even mount it on the stock of a shotgun for quick and easy access.

Unfortunately, push button turkey calls are very sensitive to moisture. While turkeys will still move during a spring rain shower, a little rain can silence a push button call and ruin a hunt for a hunter who relies solely upon push button calls. Additionally, push button calls can present problems for a hunter going after turkeys subject to heavy hunting pressure. Since they are so popular, and since push button calls do not produce quite as wide of a variety of sounds as other turkey calls (particularly diaphragm or pot and striker calls), mature gobblers may quickly wise up and become less responsive to a hunter using a push button call midway through the season.

Like the push button call, the box call is also extremely popular and very easy to use. Box calls are most often made of wood such as walnut, cedar, or mahogany, among others. However, some box calls are now made out of metal. In the hands of a skilled caller, a box call can produce a very wide variety of turkey vocalizations. Additionally, box calls are great for calling over long distances, as they can mimic turkey vocalizations at loud, as well as soft volumes.

Like push button calls, box calls are also sensitive to moisture and don’t work nearly as well when wet. However, this is not as big of a problem as it used to be because some companies now manufacture waterproof box calls (like the call pictured above). Another problem with box calls is that most of them require two hands to operate. This makes it more difficult for a hunter to transition from operating the call to aiming his or her shotgun without being spotted by a sharp eyed gobbler.

Finally, box calls have the same disadvantage as box calls when hunting heavily pressured turkeys. Since they are so popular, turkeys sometimes learn what a box call sounds like and become less responsive to them. Since the goal of a hunter is to sound like a turkey, not a turkey hunter, this can be a problem.

Pot and striker calls consist of a round disc, usually made from glass, slate, or ceramic materials, and a striker usually made of wood, aluminum, or carbon. To use, apply pressure to the pot with the striker at varying pressures, angles, and patterns to create different sounds. Using these calls, a skilled caller can produce a dizzying array of turkey calls. Additionally, most pot and striker calls are much more tolerant of wet conditions than box or push button calls are.

While pot and striker calls are great options for a turkey hunter, they are not without disadvantages. Like a box call, pot and striker calls have the disadvantage that they require two hands to operate. Additionally, they are more difficult to learn to use effectively when compared to push button calls or box calls.

Also known as mouth calls, diaphragm calls are small, horseshoe shaped calls with rubber or latex reeds that vibrate when air is forced across them. Many different manufacturers produce diaphragm calls in a wide variety of variations that can imitate virtually any turkey vocalization. Diaphragm calls are inexpensive, small, lightweight, and weatherproof. They also do not require the hunter to use his or her hands for operation. This significantly cuts down on movement and allows the hunter to use the call right up until the point that they take the shot without spooking the bird.

The biggest disadvantage to the diaphragm call is that they are the most difficult turkey calls for a hunter to learn how to use properly. Indeed, many experienced and successful turkey hunters do not know how to use a diaphragm call to its fullest potential. The other disadvantage to a diaphragm call is that they are not as loud as other turkey calls, especially box calls.

As you can see, each of the different types of turkey calls I described here fits into a particular niche. None is perfect, but they can complement each other very well if used appropriately. As a result, instead of looking for the “best” call, it’s probably a better idea for a turkey hunter to purchase and master the use of 2-3 different turkey calls. This will give the hunter several options if he or she out in turkey hunting and gets caught in a rain shower or the turkeys stop responding to a particular call. By having a different, but complementary, call on hand that he or she can use well, that hunter may be able to change things up and end the hunt with a big gobbler on the ground.

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NEXT: BEST 6.5 CREEDMOOR AMMO FOR HUNTING ELK, DEER, AND OTHER BIG GAME

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You’ll get an argument from duck hunters everywhere, but when you start talking about the best duck calls, you’ll have to understand that we all have our favorite. The game calls we use for the realistic sounds of waterfowl are arguably the most critical call in the hunting game.

From single reed to double reed and even triple reed duck calls, duck callers can get a little overwhelmed by all the possibilities of different calls. From the high-ball and chuckle to the peeps and whistles of smaller puddle ducks, every call is unique in its ability to fool and even calm wary waterfowl. It’s all about getting them to believe that our spread isn’t the only thing giving them a good reason to land.

There are different reasons to choose between wood, acrylic, and even plastic calls. There are plenty of good reasons to choose or not to select other calls with multiple reeds.

Whether you’re hunting timber or big open water, you may want to be heard loud and clear or give off the swamp’s softer, more melodic tones. Do you want a raspy sound or a clean and clear one?

Whether you want to make a quack, a feed call, or a hail call, you’re not going to do it with your lips. You had better have something readymade on your lanyard. Even better, it should have the versatility to make a wide range of sounds for when it is right to fool some waterfowl.

Buck Gardner Double Nasty Wood Duck Call

Buck Gardner Double Nasty Wood Duck Call – Amazon, $29.99

The Buck Gardner Double Nasty series offers several choices, from the mallard hen to the hen wood duck. Yes, it’s a significant attractor of the venerable woodie. But this call is also a good confidence call for warier ducks who’ve seen and heard it all before. Buck Gardner makes it from durable polycarbonate, which is quite common.

2. Rich-n-Tone RNT Macrohen Double Reed

Rich-n-Tone RNT Macrohen Double Reed – Field Supply, $109.99

The RNT Macrohen is a double reed call that’s acrylic and rocks the high-end sounds needed for reaching those sky-high, determined-to-go-somewhere-else birds. At $119.99, it may not be for everyone’s taste, but that didn’t stop you from buying that much in new duck gear a year ago.

3. Faulk’s Professional Duck Call

Faulk’s Professional Duck Call – Amazon, $29.56

Walnut is the wood of choice for Faulk’s with this tasty-sounding call referred to as the Professional. Wood calls are superior at withstanding subzero temperatures that can freeze up poly calls. Since there’s nothing better than shooting mallards with a bit of snow on their backs, the smooth-sounding tones are what you need for a limit of ducks.

4. Haydel’s Double Reed Mallard

Haydel’s Double Reed Mallard – Amazon, $20.98

The old-school XL from Haydel’s Game Calls was the first duck call that I ever bought. Trying to entice mallards off Lake Ontario in January is hard enough. Still, with a steady northwest wind in your face, you need a call that gets the word out. I always loved its raspy high-ball and the see-through shell. Calling ducks became more manageable once I saw how anyone could apply a tool like this.

5. Duck Commander 6-in-1 Whistle

Duck Commander 6-in-1 Whistle – Amazon, $10.19

On Amazon Prime, this call is a steal. Tweets for pintail and widgeon aside, the simple “dweek” that makes drake mallards stop in their tracks is one of the best confidence calls in duck hunting. This call is great to hand over to the youngster in your life and be patient while they do laps around the house making their favorite call sounds.

6. Duck Commander Triple Threat

Duck Commander Triple Threat – Amazon, $31.56

Arguably the best all-around call out there, the Triple Threat has everything that you want in a call: it’s affordable, easy to learn on, and tough as nails. Veterans and beginners alike will take to this call with pleasure. Don’t let its nondescript look fool you; the best duck calls make duck calling easy, and the Robertsons make one of the best.

There are excellent and outstanding calls from Iowa to Arkansas, where they shoot steel shots at waterfowl. Call makers everywhere would like to think theirs is better than the rest, but you should decide for yourself what a high-quality duck call is.

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This article was originally published on September 18, 2021.

READ MORE: WHAT SHOTGUN LOAD SHOULD YOU USE FOR EACH HUNT?

The distance a 22 bullet can travel in miles depends on several factors, including the barrel length of the gun firing it, the type and weight of the bullet, and the type of firearm powder used in the load.

Generally speaking, a 22 bullet can travel up to 1. 5 miles in a standard rifle barrel with a velocity of 1,200 feet per second, while the same bullet in a handgun barrel can reach a maximum of 0. 75 miles when fired at 1,000 feet per second.

It is worth noting that the trajectory of the bullet will also have an impact on the overall distance traveled, with the bullet losing velocity and dropping in elevation over time and across distances.

Can a 22 bullet go a mile?

It is technically possible for a 22 bullet to go a mile, however it is highly unlikely. 22 bullets travel at significant lower speeds than other ammunition due to their light weight. Depending on the gun being used, the velocity of the bullet could range from 955 to 1218 feet per second.

This means that it would take the bullet around 10 to 14 seconds to travel a mile, depending on the velocity of the bullet. Factors such as wind speed, wind direction, bullet drop, and air resistance could all significantly reduce the range of the bullet, making it even less likely for a 22 bullet to travel a mile.

If a gun is only intended for short range shooting, it would also be less accurate at long ranges, further decreasing the chances of the bullet making it a mile. Ultimately, a 22 bullet has the capability to go a mile, but various factors make it incredibly unlikely.

How many mph does a 22 bullet travel?

The exact speed of a 22 bullet when it leaves the barrel of a gun will depend on the type of gun and ammunition used. Generally speaking, the velocity of a 22 caliber rifle round or handgun round can range anywhere from 1000-2000 fps (feet per second).

This is equivalent to around 735 mph (miles per hour) to 1470 mph. For comparison, a 45 caliber round can travel up to 900 mph.

Will a 22 go through a deer?

No, a 22 caliber bullet is not likely to pass through a deer. It is an extremely small caliber bullet, designed mainly for smaller game like small birds, squirrels and rabbits. The small size of the bullet makes it incapable of producing sufficient wound channels that can effectively debilitate larger animals like deer.

Although certain modern, high-velocity 22 rounds are capable of producing sufficient energy to drop deer, one should always use larger and more powerful rounds, like the 30-06, for hunting deer. The moderate but sufficient energy that these rounds possess, combined with the larger, more effective bullet size, allows the hunter to more reliably and humanely take down deer.

What is the maximum range of .22 rifle?

The maximum range of a. 22 rifle depends on a number of factors, such as the type of rifle, the type of ammunition being used, environmental conditions, and the skill of the shooter. For typical. 22 rimfire rifles with standard velocity ammunition, the effective range is typically around 100 to 125 yards, with a maximum range of up to around 200 yards.

However, this range can be significantly increased with higher velocity ammunition such as. 22 Magnum and. 22 Hornet, and expert shooters may be able to take reliable shots up to 300 yards. The range of a.

22 rifle can also be extended even further by using heavier bullets with a higher ballistic coefficient, however this is more likely to be a factor for target shooting rather than hunting.

How far does a 22 bullet drop at 100 yards?

The bullet drop of any given round is heavily dependent on the specific round being fired, as well as the conditions in which it is fired. Generally speaking, a typical 22 caliber bullet (such as a. 22LR) fired from a rifle at 100 yards will have an approximate drop of around 22 inches.

This is assuming the bullet is being fired with a zeroed sight and that environmental factors such as wind are not present. Factors such as a different rate of twist in the barrel, projectile weight, and even muzzle velocity can contribute to the bullet drop, potentially altering the answer by a few inches.

Is .22 better than 9mm?

When debating whether the .22 is better than a 9mm, the answer really depends on the situation. It’s important to remember that there are advantages and disadvantages to both types of ammunition.

The primary benefit of a. 22 is that it is much less powerful than a 9mm. This makes a. 22 a potentially safer option to use as it has much less of an associated risk to cause serious injury if an accidental shot is fired.

Additionally, a. 22 is much cheaper than a 9mm and can be purchased in larger quantities, making them a great choice if you are looking to practice your shooting skills without breaking the bank.

That being said, the 9mm is a much more powerful round and thus is better suited for self-defense scenarios. A 9mm is more than capable of doing some serious damage so it is definitely the better choice for those looking for protection.

Furthermore, it is a relatively common caliber so it will be easy for you to find ammo for your gun if you ever need to.

In conclusion, the answer to the question of which is better between the. 22 and the 9mm depends on the situation. Those looking for a good round for training purposes would be better served by the. 22, while those looking for a round suitable for protection should go with the 9mm.

How far can you shoot a squirrel with a 22?

The maximum distance at which you can shoot a squirrel with a. 22 rifle depends on a number of factors such as the type of ammunition used, the rifle’s accuracy, the shooter’s skill and the environment in which the shooting is occurring.

Generally, most rimfire rounds (. 22 Long Rifle being the most common) are accurate to about 50 to 75 yards, depending on the rifle. For hunting squirrels, a maximum range of 50 to 60 yards is recommended, with any shots beyond that distance being very difficult to truly account for and potentially unethical due to the injury risk posed to the animal.

It is always best to consult your local gun laws with regards to hunting squirrels, as regulations often differ greatly depending on the location and season.

Is a 22 enough for defense?

The answer to this question depends on a variety of factors. Generally speaking, a 22 is not considered to be enough for self-defense, as it is often too small and low-powered to effectively stop a potential attacker.

It is important to remember that criminals may also be armed and prepared to defend themselves, so having adequate protection that offers more stopping power than a 22 is important. Additionally, if you plan to carry a handgun for self-defense, you should make sure that it is legal to do so in your state and that you are properly trained and licensed.

In some states, handguns must be at least a certain caliber or power level in order to be considered adequate for defense. Ultimately, it is important to determine which firearm is best suited to your needs, and consider factors such as size, power, and lifecycle cost before making your decision.

How many feet does a 22 go per second?

The speed of 22 feet per second is approximately 15 miles per hour, or 6. 7 meters per second. This is the velocity or speed at which something is moving for each second that passes. To find out how many feet a 22 can traverse in a given period of time, you would need to know the amount of time passed.

For example, if an object is moving at a rate of 22 feet per second and it has been moving for 10 seconds, it would have gone a total of 220 feet.

Is a 22 Magnum a powerful round?

Yes, the 22 Magnum, also sometimes referred to as the 22 WMR (Winchester Magnum Rimfire), is indeed a powerful round. It is a rimfire cartridge that was developed by Winchester in 1959 and fired a pointed soft point bullet.

Its performance is higher than the traditional 22 LR in terms of velocity, energy, and stopping power. It has been used for hunting and target shooting since its adoption. The. 22 Magnum is a high velocity round with ballistics typically ranging from 1,900 to 2,200 feet per second with muzzle energy of approximately 210 foot-pounds.

This makes it a much more powerful round than the. 22 LR, which typically has a velocity of 1,100 to 1,300 feet per second with a muzzle energy of approximately 100 foot-pounds. As such, it is a powerful and effective round for hunting small game like rabbits, squirrels, and some varmints, as well as for self-defense.

However, due to its powerful nature, special caution should be taken when handling and firing this round.

Are 22 magnums accurate?

It depends on the situation and the shooter. Generally speaking, the. 22 Magnum cartridge is more accurate than the standard. 22LR cartridge, as its longer case and higher velocity produces less muzzle flip.

With quality ammunition and good technique, it is possible to achieve good accuracy with a. 22 Magnum. That said, recoil can still be a factor, and certain shooters may find they are more accurate with the.

22 LR due to the lower recoil. Additionally, some modern rifles are better suited for the larger case of the. 22 Magnum and will be more accurate than those that are not. Ultimately, it will likely come down to personal preference and mechanical accuracy.

What is the range of a 9mm pistol?

The range of a 9mm pistol can vary greatly depending on the type, model, and ammunition being used. The range is typically somewhere between 50 and 150 feet in ideal conditions. Factors such as wind speed, humidity, and rain can affect the range drastically.

A 9mm pistol bullet will typically travel at around 1100-1300 feet per second, depending on the type of ammunition. Most 9mm pistols are designed for close range shooting and typically lack the accuracy and power for distant target shooting.

For this reason, many who use a 9mm pistol prefer to use it for self-defense rather than target practice.

How far does a 9mm bullet travel before it drops?

The answer to this question depends on the type of ammunition being used, the size and weight of the bullet, and the environmental conditions present. Ballistic tables and calculators in ballistic programs can help to estimate an accurate distance, but some broad estimates can be made.

Generally, 9mm bullets fired from pistols can travel roughly 1,200 yards before they start to drop. Rifle rounds fired from 9mm carbines have a longer range, with the bullet typically dropping around 1,800 yards.

Subsonic ammunition with bullets weighing around 110 – 115 grain have a shorter range and typically drop at around 900 yards.

These distances also depend on several environmental factors, such as wind, rain, and temperature. Inclement weather can affect the trajectory of the bullet and reduce its range, while high altitudes can increase the range of the bullet.

The muzzle velocity and bullet shape will also play a role in how far the bullet travels before it drops.

How many yards can a 9mm shoot?

A 9mm handgun is designed for short range shooting, and therefore the range of the firearm is highly dependent on the type of ammunition being used. With the proper ammunition, the typical range of a 9mm handgun can be from 25 to 75 yards, although it could potentially reach up to 100 yards.

It is important to note that snipers can achieve up to 300 yards or beyond, using 9mm ammunition. To achieve the most accuracy and distance, upgrading to a rifle would be strongly suggested as the proper platform for long range shooting.

Introduction

If you define the effective range as the distance a shooter can deliver a hit to a man-sized target, then the maximum effective range for a 9mm round fired from a handgun is about 1800 meters. If it sounds absurd, it is because the assumption is ridiculous.

However, the estimate takes into account match grade ammo when fired from a perfectly maintained weapon and by a skilled marksman in a stable shooting position. The target is motionless and at a known distance in the perfect environmental conditions.

The basic answer to this question varies based on the gun and the shooter abilities. The safe estimate for both target and combat shooting is, however, between 25 and 50 meters. And this estimate is for the average effective range for an average shooter using average equipment on an average day. Significantly less because there are just so many factors to account for.

From experience, a reasonably skilled shooter with a 9mm handgun may be able to hit a man-sized target out to a hundred yards on a practice range. Sometimes 200 yards and that is if the gods of luck smile. In the real world, in cases of life and death situations, or self-defense shootings, it is quite common for shooters to miss their targets seven out of ten times within a few yards distance.

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What is a Pistol For?

To expand on this question we must understand the purpose of having a pistol and its primary use. You have to ask yourself, what is the use of a handgun? A pistol was never intended to be a battle weapon. In combat situations, it plays the role of the sword in the bygone eras and it is used as a last resort. Compared to a rifle, the handgun is a prosecuting firearm at close quarter combat.

Rarely are handguns used in hunting and the 9mm is not a hunting cartridge. But for the most part, a handgun’s primary purpose is a personal defense weapon. Personal defense does not include a range beyond 25 yards. Throughout history, most personal defense situations are between 10 yards or closer. I see a scenario where one tries to explain to a jury an assailant more than 30-40 feet away puts you at risk of causing you grievous bodily harm or death.

If it was in the defense of others, 25 yards is still far enough away, and I estimate it to be the limit of the average shooter to get a sure hit. However, the consequences of missing could still be tragic and all individual shooters with a 9mm handgun must know the effective range of the cartridge. It is also imperative that one knows their overall effective range.

What Affects the Effective Range of a 9mm Handgun

The effective range of a 9mm handgun has two interwoven components. That is the distance the cartridge can kill with a lethal hit and the likelihood of an average person making a lethal hit at a given range.

Range

If you consider the range, a 9mm has a potential killing power out to several hundred yards. As a practical matter, an average shooter can consistently make a hit within less than 30 yards. If you also use a scope with your handgun then the effective range and accuracy increase tremendously.

Barrel length

Shooting at long range is challenging as the pistol is the most difficult to master as the bullets are very slow and this makes them arc a lot at long range. But if the pistol barrel becomes longer, that distance increases. If the sight radius of a pistol is elongated, the sighting becomes easier and accuracy increases.

We need to differentiate between lethality and effectiveness. Bullets can be lethal at any distance as long as it still has its stopping power. But at very long distances, a human-size target is smaller than the front sight post, and this reduces accuracy. At this point, you will just be lobbying rounds and hoping to hit something.

For the average shooter, trying to get a hit rate at 100 meters with a handgun is world-class shooting.

Action

The effective range also depends on the gun that fires the round. A bolt action rifle does not use propelling gas to operate or reload mechanism. Both semi-auto and automatic rifles use some propellant gas to reload. The gas comes from a hole in the last piece of the barrel.

Most pistols are designed to reload immediately and if there are lots of propelling gas escaping the wrong way the shot power is compromised. Therefore, the amount of propelling gas ultimately affects the effective range of a handgun.

For example, a Glock 17 has an effective range of 25meters. The range is only for the pistol though and not the bullet. If the same bullet from a pistol is fired from a pistol caliber carbine a shooter can be very accurate at those distances and slightly higher.

Stock/Design

If you buy the .22 Long Rifle rimfire round you must have seen the warning it embodies on the box.

“Dangerous Within One Mile.”

Most handguns like the 9mm are chambered and tuned for reliability and not so much pinpoint accuracy. The sights are designed to withstand abuse and allow a shooter to have a rapid visual acquisition. It means that most pistols are for short-range use.

The delivery system is what limits the range, and for most service pistols, to hit fifty yards under street conditions is a difficult and long shot to take and make a hit.

What is the Lethal Range of a 9mm?

There is no definitive answer for this as well. But if you ask me, I will place it at 50 yards give or take. And that is a pretty lucky shot if the circumstances are favorable.

The variables include the 9mm ammo brand and power, the rifling in the barrel, the accuracy of the pistol, and its constructive impact on the bullet’s trajectory. Also, you must factor the external conditions that include density and moisture among others.

Now, a lethal range certainly means a handgun capable of inflicting deadly or serious damage to a person or animal. Also, consider that there is no limit for any safe and out of bounds area. I mean that fluke shots are still lethal although the target is far away and the shot unintended.

Other factors that make a shot lethal include, point of entry, impact angle, and area of entry. There are a whole lot of things that could make a shot lethal or not. Sometimes at close range, a bullet may pass through flesh missing vital organs and therefore inflicting only flesh wounds instead of fatality.

Therefore, despite all the arguments of the lethal range, the first rule of gun handling is to ensure that firearms are always pointed downwards. Always practice safe use to ensure your safety and the safety of others around you.

How Far Does a 9mm Bullet Travel?

There are some variables that we must consider before we give a blanket answer. First, is based on the type of 9mm round. Some ammo is loaded at a higher pressure and will leave the gun faster than others. Other bullet shapes will cause less drag than others.

Also, the type of firearm will determine the velocity of a bullet. Longer barrels allow the bullet to reach higher initial velocities than a short barrel handgun

Understanding Velocity

If you already know the velocity at which the bullet will fall, then all we need to do is calculate how fast it travels when it leaves the barrel. For example, a standard 115-grain bullet leaves the 4.5-inch barrel of a typical handgun at about 1100 feet per second.

When calculating velocity, it is essential to know that all guns fire bullets at a small upward angle. The reason is that the sights are “zeroed” at some distance. For handguns, the distance is about 25 yards

Understanding Drag

When you fire a bullet it travels through a medium. In this case it is air. The bullet slows down because of the friction caused by the medium. It is what we refer to as drag. Drag varies with the ballistic coefficient of the bullet as this is determined by the shape of the bullet. A 9mm handgun bullet, having a round, as opposed to a spire nose will not have a very good ballistic coefficient.

9mm versus .40 Smith & Wesson

There are three key things to consider when picking the best self-defense caliber.

Cost

Everywhere you go, wisdom dictates that shot placement is more important than the caliber you use to shoot. It does not mean that calibers do not have an impact on a shooter’s outcome. Small rounds may not penetrate bones or breastplate when hunting.

Caliber does matter. However, the emphasis on shot placement is to remind you that when you miss it is the same as shooting a zero caliber bullet. Therefore, shot placement is not necessarily king but rather it is the proficiency of the firearm you will use. It is why the cost of the ammo matters.

For example, if a 9mm costs about 14 cents a round. And a.40 S&W costs about 19 cents a round.

There is only a 5 cent difference. Eventually, it all adds up though. Suppose you use 1000 rounds that means you pay about $80 more for your ammunition when shooting with the .40 S&W.

Regardless of your budget, if you shoot the 9mm you will get more training for your money, and therefore become more proficient with your gun. In effect, you will have a better-shot placement.

Recoil

The .40 S&W is essentially just a short 10mm round, therefore it features a higher breach pressure than the 9mm. Because it is a heavy round, the .40 S&W has more felt recoil.

High-pressure rounds that produce a recoil impulse can be uncomfortable for some shooters and also more challenging to shoot with one hand.

If a shooter spends time and resources training to shoot with the same handgun, chambered in 9mm, in the end, they become faster and more precise. There is less recoil energy to absorb and control in a 9mm round.

Magazine Capacity

I cannot see a situation where having more rounds is not better. Take the context of self-defense, reloading can be impossible. To reduce the chances of having to reload, the magazine capacity should be high.

Provided you are comparing two guns of the same size, the 9mm will always have a higher magazine capacity than .40 S&W. Therefore, a 9mm handgun enables you to perform better than .40 S&W.

However, the .40 S&W is also a perfectly viable self-defense round. Though it takes more training, it is a darling to many shooters.

Conclusion

But, if you want to shoot a lot and also want to be a better shot for less money, you should consider using a 9mm handgun for both home and personal defense. It is a sure way to save money and time without compromising defensive performance.

A tiny fraction of whitetail hunters have taken a buck that scores over 170 typical or 195 nontypical, the minimums for entry into the Boone & Crockett record book. Many hunters feel like it’s just a stroke of luck to have a buck that size walk by, and many times it is. But that doesn’t explain why some hunters kill them with a shocking degree of regularity.

Several hunters have killed multiple B&C bucks over the years, which proves that they are probably doing things a little different than you and I are when you take to the whitetail woods. In talking to them, I have come up with a list if six things they’re doing that you’re probably not doing.

You’re Not Hunting Where They Live

This may seem obvious, but you have to hunt where there are. You don’t have to live there, but if you don’t have Booners where you live you must travel (or move.) Tim Young packed up and moved to Iowa and has shot two giants there and one on a roadtrip to Kentucky. Rod Owen, Adam Hays, Stan Potts and Ben Rising travel extensively to find and shoot big bucks in states other than their own.

“You have to find them first,” says Adam Hays, who has taken nine Booners including four over 200 inches. “Your best bet for finding a giant will be near sanctuaries where there is no or very limited hunting. These areas will be close to city limits, parks, industrial zones, wildlife refuges and even large tracts of land that allow no hunting. Hunting a specific animal will make you hunt harder and smarter also, just knowing he’s there!”

Rod Owen agrees.

“Killing a Booner isn’t the hardest part, the hardest part is finding one.”

Ben Rising has shot four Booners in the last two years. He says he often spends more time looking for a buck and getting access to hunt where the buck lives than actually hunting him.

You Don’t Understand How Fickle They Can Be

You can’t take chances with human intrusion, checking scouting cameras too often, or hunting in the wrong winds. To shoot a Booner you must do everything right, and get lucky, too. Patience is the key. Rod Owen tells about how he waited weeks for the perfect conditions to hunt a giant buck, but the wind switched so he literally got out of the stand and RAN all the way back to his truck.

“People go overboard trying to get intel on these big bucks and end up hurting themselves in the long run,” according to Ben Rising. They “dig too deep” he says, risking alerting the deer that he’s being hunted.

According to Adam Hays, patience is the #1 key.

“Sometimes the most difficult part of hunting a big buck is actually not hunting him at all,” he says. “having the patience and the discipline to wait until everything is perfect before diving in for the kill.”

You’re Not Willing To Do Whatever It Takes

You are spending your time watching Monday Night Football, you’re hanging out with buddies, you’re fishing when the big buck killers are scouting. The hunters who shoot Booners make sacrifices, and they are consumed by the pursuit and learning everything they can about the deer and the land they inhabit. The drive to shoot giant deer is at a level far above the average deer hunter.

“There are hunters and there are killers,” says Rising. “The drive has to be far greater if you are going to consistently kill big ones.”

With his truck stuck in a snowdrift, Steve Niemerg waited out a blizzard in a farmer’s house for two days, then instead of going home when the blizzard quit, he went hunting and killed a giant Booner that very evening.

You’re Not Hunting During the Peak Times

There are a few specific short periods each year when most Booners are shot. Hays is a big believer in the moon’s position as an influence of big buck movement. Rising says that waiting for the right moment is key.

Hays also claims that a wind that’s good for the buck and bad for you can be the best time to hunt.

“For me, the Holy Grail of whitetail hunting is finding a big buck’s weak spot, somewhere along his travel pattern where you can get within bow range of him while he’s using the wind to his advantage”

When a peak time arrives, you must put the rest of your life on hold. You might be surprised to discover that most of these true giants were not shot during the rut. Most big buck killers agree that they prefer to kill Booners before the chaos of the rut arrives and the deer are in more predictable patterns.

You’re Not Passing On Big Bucks

Those 170 and 180 bucks were once 150 bucks. If you can’t pass up a 4-year-old 150, you will probably never shoot a 6-year-old 180. A friend in southern Iowa who owns a large farm told me he kicked a guy out of their hunting group because he wouldn’t pass up the 4-year-olds that most people would drool over.

“People like Adam [Hays] and I have learned not to smoke the tag on the first 4-year-old 160 that comes by,” says Rising. “We only have one tag in Ohio.”

That’s a tough hurdle for most hunters to get over. If you are happy with a 150-160 then so be it, but if you want to kill bucks approaching 200, you will have to let them walk.

You’re Taking Shortcuts

Most hunters rely too much on gimmicks and don’t go to the extremes necessary. You aren’t choosing your entry and exit routes wisely enough, and you aren’t using discipline to wait for perfect conditions. These big buck killers are scent control fanatics, but they don’t use that as an excuse to take shortcuts with the wind. Scent control is an honorable goal, but the belief that you can totally eliminate your scent and ignore good woodsmanship is a ticket to forkhorn land.

Hanging a treestand during the rain, letting those cameras sit for weeks and only checking them with the right wind, having the patience to wait until everything is right — these are the characteristics of a person who kills Booners. Hunting mature bucks is all about strategic moves at the right time in the right place. There are no shortcuts, you must make every move with precision.