By Hampton Bourne

In the late 1990s the spinning-wing decoy crashed onto the duck hunting scene like a tsunami. Two decades later, it has become the most widely used motion decoy, and most hunters have at some point integrated spinners into their decoy spreads. A superstar to some hunters and pariah to others, these decoys have definite strengths and weaknesses.

The first spinning-wing decoy traces its roots to California’s Sacramento Valley. The initial prototype was rather basic and consisted of a single spinning blade, powered by a small electric motor, atop a stake. The blade’s alternating colors produced a strobe effect. The magic comes from the strobe. Unlike humans, ducks can see in the ultraviolet spectrum, which allows them to pick out a hunter’s face shining in the sunlight as well as a spinning-wing decoy from two to three times farther than the human eye can see it. Likewise, a duck’s sharp vision and eyes on the side of its head allow it to see a wide panorama of motionor lack thereofin a decoy spread.

While some hunters achieve tremendous results with their motion decoys, others insist that they cause more harm than good. Here are a variety of tips from experts who make motion work.

EXPERT TIP #1 Understanding Motion Concepts

The spinning-wing concept spread like wildfire. Terry Denmon, an engineer by trade, was approached by a friend who owned a sporting goods store. Their goal was to develop a small, battery-powered motor that could drive spinning wings on a duck decoy. The idea quickly morphed into MOJO Outdoors, which has since established itself as a major manufacturer of spinners and other motion decoys.

Denmon separates his theory of motion into two categories: “long-range strobe” and “simple motion.” Long-range strobe, he says, is “the flash of a spinning-wing decoy generated by turning a wing at a certain minimum speed.” Simple motion, he continues, is “any movement not within the spinning-wing concept. This could be movement of decoys, water, or wings that do not produce the strobe or flash.”

If motion decoys were duck calls, the strobe would be the highball, and simple motion would be the lonesome hen. Like the highball, the strobe is very effective at attracting ducks from long ranges but can cause them to flare when they’re in close, particularly later in the season. Simple motion, on the other hand, is not visible to ducks from a distance but is more likely to help finish birds, just like the lonesome hen call.

While MOJO made the spinning-wing decoy famous, Higdon Outdoors pioneered the development of other types of motion decoys. In 1994, Mark Higdon built a goose decoy with a moving head, which went on to become the first mass-produced motion decoy.

Brook Richard, corporate relations manager for Higdon Outdoors, explains Higdon’s idea of motion. “Visual motion,” he says, “is produced by decoys that can be seen from a distance, but visual motion is not always useful when you’re trying to finish ducks. Water motion, on the other hand, is the process of putting a ripple on the water to make decoys move. With visual motion you’re trying to attract ducks from a long distance. With water motion you’re trying to get circling ducks to commit.”

The message is simple. Some motion decoys attract ducks from long distances, while others put ducks at ease when they are circling your spread. Understanding the difference helps you to be more strategic and creative when using motion.

EXPERT TIP #2 Get Creative

It’s no secret that decoy positioning is crucial to successful duck hunting, and that is especially important with the placement of motion decoys. Conventional wisdom indicates that if a decoy looks like a duck landing, it should be positioned in a spread where you want ducks to land. While placing a decoy in the middle of a landing hole may not be a terrible idea, a little more thought and creativity can yield better results.

Mark Kirsten has been hunting the rice fields of his family’s Sacramento Valley farm for nearly 30 years, and he has experienced the evolution of spinning-wing decoys firsthand. “When the original spinners were invented, they were almost unfair,” Kirsten says. “Their effectiveness has lessened over time, however, and the farther south you go, the less effective they can be.” As ducks move down the flyway, he explains, and especially as the season progresses, they can begin to see the strobe produced by the spinning wings as something unnatural.

“In my experience,” Kirsten continues, “as the season moves on, ducks don’t always finish as well when the spinners are spinning. I use one only if it has a remote, and we always turn it off as ducks get closer. As the season moves on, I also tend to place them farther and farther away from my blind. If ducks begin to act leery of a spinning-wing decoy, I’ll even put it outside my spread and partially behind cover so ducks can see it only at certain points in their circle. I think it can be a great tactic to continue attracting ducks without sacrificing the ability to finish them.”

Denmon endorses the tactic. “One of the biggest misconceptions for spinning-wing decoys is that they are good finishers,” he says. “The decoy was always intended to be a long-range attractor. But if ducks become shy and you remove it completely from your spread, you give up the ability to attract ducks from far off. If they aren’t finishing because of your spinning-wing decoy, move it to the far end of your spread, out of your landing hole. If you need to, move it a hundred yards outside your spread. It might not look as natural to us, but at least you’re still attracting ducks from far away. Once they are close enough to be shy of the strobe, the spinners have already done their job.”

EXPERT TIP #3 How Conditions Can Affect Motion

Ron Kee is a lifelong New Yorker who cut his teeth hunting ducks in the saltwater marshes of Long Island. A Wall Street veteran and former New York state DU vice chairman, he now hangs a shingle as a pro staffer for several waterfowling manufacturers including Mossy Oak, Drake Waterfowl, Buck Gardner Calls, and Tanglefree.

Changing weather conditions can present a challenge for any hunter, but those on our nation’s coasts also have to deal with tides. “Sometimes, the tide can shift six to eight feet over the course of a hunting day,” Kee says. “In a falling tide, a decoy on a pole will eventually stand too far out of the water. In a rising tide the same decoy will quickly be covered with water. We usually hunt from boats and almost always use floating spinning-wing decoys so our profile and motion adjust automatically with the tide.”

Hunters logging hours on coastal waters can also see a higher frequency of strong winds. “Most of the time we hunt sea ducks in a stout wind,” Kee continues. “We frequently use wind-powered spinning-wing decoys. While many inland hunters won’t see winds with enough power to spin motorless decoys, we commonly hunt in winds that produce the strobe that ducks can see from a long way away. They’re also lightweight and very affordable.”

Kee also encourages hunters to remember some tried and true old-school motion tactics. “Flagging passing ducks is one of the most effective techniques we use,” Kee says. The flag he uses is a black, square flag on a handle, similar to a black golf flag. Hunters grip the handle and flap the flag to simulate a duck or goose flapping its wings. “When ducks are at a distance, I’ll hit them with a few flaps,” Kee continues. “I just use a few flicks to get their attention, and once they start coming, I’ll stop flapping. Unlike dabblers, many divers and sea ducks don’t respond well to a duck call, so flagging gives me the same feeling of involvement that calling does. It really is an art form and can be a lot of fun.”

EXPERT TIP #4 Finesse Finishes Ducks

If the waterfowling community crowned a “King of Motion,” Ronnie Capps would be a strong contender. A retired game warden and current professional outfitter, Capps is widely regarded as an expert at bringing life to a dull decoy spread, to the point that clients have referred to his Reelfoot Lake timber hole as “Duck Disneyland.”

Capps believes that shy ducks require a more delicate approachsomething many decoy spreads lack. “You will scare far more ducks with erratic motion than subtle motion. Many hunters use what I call ‘The Haunted House Scenario,'” he says. “If you use too much motion at the wrong time, it’s like a guy with a chainsaw popping out at a haunted house.

“Keep your motion decoys on a remote or a hardwire switch, and don’t ever hit your heavy motion decoys when the ducks are looking right at your spread. When they get downwind and aren’t looking directly at you, hit your motion decoys a few times to stir up the water and create ripples and motion out of the corners of their eyes. I am also a big believer in swimming decoys, especially in and around my landing hole. I believe they are extremely beneficial when used for finishing ducks.”

Higdon’s Richard agrees. “Ducks move, and they move a lot,” he says. “I think the biggest mistake people make is devaluing the power of water motion, especially when there’s no wind or if you’re in the woods. Water motion is critical for finishing ducks.”

“With decoys arranged in a classic half-moon pattern, there are several different ways to use motion best,” Richard adds. “First, make sure your motion decoys are slightly upwind in the spread so the ducks will continue flying over them as they circle. Also consider placing a motion decoy among static decoys to compound their effectiveness. Putting a low-key motion decoy, like a swimmer, exactly in the spot where you want the ducks to land is also a great tactic.”

EXPERT TIP #5 Be Strategic

Supplementing your decoy spread with motion isn’t guaranteed to increase your harvest, but it’s hard to argue against it. The key is being strategic. While some decoys are meant to function like a hammer, others play subtler but equally important roles. Success comes when you understand the hunting conditions, read the birds’ behavior, and use the right tools for the job.

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Any bass angler will likely tell you that topwater fishing provides some of the most exciting bass bites to behold. There is nothing like the visual action of an epic topwater blow up, after all it’s one of the only forms of bass fishing where you actually get to see a bass attack your lure.

Which is why most anglers can’t wait for early dawn or dusk hours, and the warm temperatures of spring and early summer, to break out topwater lures and start walking, popping, and buzzing to drive bass crazy. But the truth is, while topwater lures are traditionally best during late spring and early summer, they can be used in most seasons and varying water temperatures and still catch fish.

1. Rebel Pop-R
2. Whopper Plopper
3. Livetarget Hollow Body Frog

Top water lures come in all shapes and sizes, and in most cases float. The bulk of them are made of hard plastic and are equipped with treble hooks. Treble hooks help increase your chances of having a fish get and stay hooked when they strike, since bass can often miss a topwater lure, or barely hit it. This is especially true for the fast moving models.

They’re not all made from hard plastic however, some are made of solid robber, soft hollow plastic, metal, or a combination. A buzzbait for instance is made up of a metal wire, metal/plastic propellor, and a rubber skirt. It’s also one of the few topwater lures that do not float.

When selecting a topwater bait, you should start with fast moving lures and reduce the speed by methodically switching to slower moving ones if your not getting strikes. This is how you find out how aggressive the bass are that day. Sometimes they will chase almost anything, and other times will only go after a very easy target.

Here are five of the best topwater lures that you should be using:

1. Popper Lures

Poppers are floating lures with a cupped mouth, meaning the front of the lure has an indented bowl shape. In the mouth is where the line attaches, and where all the action the lure creates comes from. This is one of, if not the slowest moving topwater lures.

When fishing a topwater popper, you simply cast the lure out and let it float. You then jerk your rod pulling the lure and causing the mouth to plow through the surface of the water. As it’s being pulled it makes a “pop” as water bubbles up over it. Some are designed with bigger mouths for a slower but bigger “chugging” action, while others have smaller mouths and made for working a little faster with smaller pops.

For more info visit the Topwater Poppers page

2. Walk The Dog Lures

These floating topwaters are long and skinny, usually equipped with a pair of treble hooks. Most models are torpedo shaped. Because of their shape they are often categorized as stickbaits, but since their walking action is so unique they have their own category.

They are called “walk the dog” lures because you have to “walk” them across the surface. The walk-the-dog action is created by jerking the rod tip repetitively with your wrist, causing the lure to zigzag from side to side. The motion creates disturbance on the surface and mimics an injured baitfish. It’s one of the best topwater lures because you have a lot of control in the action you want to give off.

For more info visit the Walk The Dog Lures page

3. Frog Lures

Hollow body frogs might be the most weedless lure there is. They have a soft plastic body that is designed to collapse and expose the hook as bass bite down on them. The lure floats and the hooks face upright, leaving very little chances for getting hung up.

This is a great advantage in bass fishing because you can cast in areas you could never with other lures. Lily pads and other floating vegetation are the ideal places to fish topwater frogs. Bass hide out under these types of vegetation as they provide a great source of oxygenated water, shade, cover, and food. So dragging frogs across the tops of them entice the bass below.

For more info visit the Topwater Frogs page

4. Buzzbaits

Buzzbaits are the fastest moving topwater lure there is, so if your looking to cover a lot of water quickly they are your best bet. They come equipped with a propellor designed to make the bait travel across the waters surface while disrupting it and causing a ton of commotion. As the blades of the prop spin and hit the water surface, they create a splashing and rippling that really appeal to bass.

Buzzbaits are great for fishing around cover like along weeds and timber. They’re somewhat weedless since the hook faces upright as it travels through the water so you can cast in a lot of areas other topwaters can’t get to.

For more info visit the Buzzbaits page

5. Prop Baits

These torpedo shaped floaters do all the work for you as you reel them in. They come equipped with one or more propellors that spin as the lure is retrieved. As the propellor spins it disturbs the surface and creates a noise that bass can hear and feel.

They are far from weedless so working them around the edges of cover is best. Typically you would only use these on a calm day when the surface is still. The props are smaller than the ones on a buzzbait so if there’s a heavy ripple from wind on the surface then the action these lures give off is not going to be very noticeable.

For more info visit the Prop Baits page

Spring and early summer are big topwater seasons because water temperatures are just right. Water temps have a big effect on bass behavior and how they feed. In temps less than 55 degrees bass are very inactive, same is said for temps above 80 degrees. When the water is in between those temps bass are energetic and aggressive, the two main ingredients required for good topwater fishing.

The reason dusk and dawn are so well known for being the best times for topwater fishing is they are low light conditions. Bass spend most of their lives staying out of the sun, because unlike humans, their eyes do not adjust to brightness. That’s why they are often found under docks, trees, lily pads, or even in deeper water. Once the sun is down though, they travel to the open shallows in search of food.

The depth range of a body of water, and water clarity, play a big role in topwater fishing. They are also a factor in what is considered “shallow”, but typically one to four feet is the range, and the best depths for topwater bass fishing. Additionally, in clearer waters, bass holding at deeper depths can still see a topwater lure or struggling baitfish on the surface.

A struggling bait fish is most often what bass think they are seeing when a topwater lure is in action, sputtering and slashing on the surface. There are topwater lures that imitate all kinds of prey like frogs, mice, even small birds, but in most cases a struggling baitfish on the surface is what they are targeting.

So when is the best time for topwater bass fishing? In low light conditions like dusk, dawn or over cast days, when the water is warm (60 degrees plus), when the water is somewhat clear, and when baitfish are active. Bass also have to be pretty active to hit topwater. If it’s a slow bite like after a cold front, the topwater bite will likely be very slow.

Heath Wood

While sitting around the campfire on the first night of our 3-day trip, I told my wife that I was going to go to bed, because I wanted to get up at sunrise and be on the river to start fishing.

While doing a few last-minute preparations before hitting the sack, we laughed at how much easier it is to get up early when heading out to hunt or fish than it is to go to work. The truth is, whether it’s getting up early to sit in a treestand, to hear a tom turkey gobbling while still on the roost or to cast a line into the water at sunrise to catch big bass, we do it because we know that this is the most active part of the day for an outdoorsman to have success. The thrill that comes from this knowledge and experience is what keeps our adrenaline high, and our anticipation elevated enough to be able to bounce out of bed before the first light of day.

As we enjoyed ourselves each day of our trip on the Jacks Fork River in southern Missouri, I began to realize that peak movement times and getting out of bed earlier than usual was not the only two similarities that hunters and fisherman have.

On this trip, I spent much of each morning and evening walking the banks and wading into the waters to try my hand at catching smallmouth bass and goggle-eye. As I walked along the quiet banks of the river, one of the many thoughts that entered my mind was how having success catching fish in small streams such as the Jacks Fork involves the same factors and techniques as when hunting successfully.

Best Time Of The Day

As mentioned earlier, one of the most significant similarities between hunting and fishing is the time of day. On the majority of most of my hunting and fishing trips, I enjoy early morning and late evenings the most. As with most animals and fish, these are the times that they are most active, mainly because of food. Early in the morning, it’s time to eat breakfast. It is the same with deer or fish; they are in search of food, thus being why the activity is at its highest.

While walking the banks of the river fishing, I noticed that I caught more fish during the first couple hours of the day than any other part of the day, mainly because the fish were hungry and feeding on bait. In the small streams that I was fishing, one of the most popular food sources is crawdads: Smallmouth bass and goggle-eye love feeding on crawdads in the swifter parts of the current. My bait of choice was a plastic tube in a pumpkin color or something brown with a little green tinge to it. These baits best resemble the food that the fish are most likely feeding on.

Late evenings are like that of early mornings. Animals and fish are ready to feed before dark, also making it an excellent time to catch fish while feeding. Besides fish wanting to eat, another reason early mornings and late evenings seem to be more successful in that the temperatures are on the cooler side during these two times of the day. Again, another similarity to that of hunting. When temperatures are more pleasant, activity is going to increase.

Feeding Areas, Travel Routes and Scouting

The term pre-fish may not mean anything to someone who has not been around fishing tournaments. In many tournaments, anglers will get a day before the official competition to pre-fish. During this time, anglers will spend their time searching for spots with the most fish, and more importantly, finding the biggest fish.

The key to success while hunting or fishing is knowing where the animal or fish live, where they travel, and where they feed. To be able to find out where fish are located, anglers must spend time scouting, like that of a deer hunter. Anglers will search where fish are feeding, what bait they are fishing on, and where they spend the most time. By being prepared before a competition, the fisherman will be more successful when the time comes to weigh in.

On my fishing trips on the small rivers and streams in southern Missouri, I observed several small crawdads swimming around in the shallow water as I walked up and down the banks. By seeing a lot of bait in the water, I decided to use a plastic tube bait in multiple colors that resembled the crawdads.

In the rivers and streams that I was fishing, one will find a lot of structures underneath the water. Things like trees, old logs, and rock ledges provide excellent cover for bass to hide under until the current brings food by them. While fishing a structure in the river, which has a constant flow, I elected to pitch and flip my plastic tubes upstream, letting the natural current pull my bait past the logs and rock ledges. By timing the depth of bait to be eye level with the fish when passing by the formation, I was able to get a lot of reactions from smallmouth. When flipping plastic tubes near a structure, I prefer using my Lew’s Super Duty GX3 bait caster reel in a 6.5:1 gear ratio, paired with a Lew’s Custom Black 6′ 8″ med/heavy rod. As for my line, I use Strike King’s Fluorocarbon line in a 10-pound test because it easy to feel the smallmouth react to the bait and super tough, even around structures.

It is essential to carry a quality setup such as my Lew’s rod and reel. When walking the banks fishing for smallmouth, one does not have the luxury to reach in a rod box and grab another pole if something tears up or quits working. Instead, I rely on proper equipment that will allow me to fish without interruption.

The key to success while hunting or fishing is knowing where they live, where they travel, and where they feed.

Stay Hidden

Another similarity between hunting and fishing – that I have found while walking the banks fishing small rivers and streams – is to stay hidden. When I say small rivers and streams, I mean I am fishing an area in which, from bank to bank, it will measure anywhere from 10-feet wide to 40-feet wide. Most of the time, I can wade across with no problems, except for being seen by fish.

When walking the banks and wading to fish, I try to stay far enough away from my casting target so that bass will not catch my movement. Some may think I am crazy; however, if the fish can see you walking or wading near them, they will not bite.

When deer hunting or even predator hunting, I continually use shadows and natural obstructions to keep from being spotted by an animal. The same goes when walking the banks or wading. I like to stay in the shadows if I am close to where I think the fish are going to be.

If one will pay attention to what is in between you and the fish, the chances of getting more bites will increase dramatically.

Over the years, I have always noticed the same men and women who passionately hunt in the fall and winter seem to be the same men and women who become as equally passionate about finding big fish in the spring and summer. It comes down to the similarities when pursuing both. It is easy to see that it is the thrill of seeking, finding, and pursuing that fuels the fire of our passion for being in the outdoors regardless of the time of year.

You could be anxiously anticipating the Virginia Deer Season in 2024 if you like hunting or being outside. It’s important to keep up with the most recent rules and information for this year’s hunting season since there are many different hunting opportunities and locales. We will provide an overview of the Virginia Deer Season for 2024 on this page, including key dates, bag restrictions, rules, and any exceptions or extra hunting possibilities. So let’s get started with everything you need to know for a productive and fun deer hunting season in Virginia. So get your gear, get ready to explore the woods, and let’s get started!

Virginia Deer Season 2024

Virginia’s deer hunting season is a favorite time of year for hunters of all ages and abilities. Early November through the end of December marks the start of the hunting season. The longest season is the archery one, lasting from September through January. There are rules requiring hunters to wear blaze orange apparel during the gun season and have a valid hunting license and deer tag, and bag limits vary based on the kind of hunting.

Archery Season

Archery SeasonDatesAllowed Deer Early Archery SeasonOctober 1 – November 18Either sex Late Archery SeasonsDecember 4 – January 7Either sex December 1 – January 7 December 18 – January 7 Urban Archery Deer SeasonsSeptember 3 – September 30Antlerless only Urban Archery Deer SeasonsJanuary 8 – March 26, 2024Antlerless only NOVA Late Archery SeasonMarch 27 – April 30, 2024Antlerless only

Muzzleloader Season

Muzzleloader Deer Season NameDatesEither-sex Deer Hunting Days Early Muzzleloader SeasonNovember 5 through November 18November 5 through November 18 Late Muzzleloader Season (East)December 17 through January 7December 17 through January 7 January 2 through January 7 7-Jan Late Muzzleloader Season (West)December 17 through January 7December 17 through January 7 January 2 through January 7 7-Jan

Firearms Deer Seasons

Firearms Deer SeasonDates Firearms Deer SeasonsNov. 19 – Dec. 3 Nov. 19 – Dec. 3 Nov. 26, Dec. 2-3 Nov. 19 – Jan. 7 (full season) Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Jan. 2 – Jan. 7 Nov. 26, Nov. 28 – Dec. 3 Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Dec. 5 – Dec. 17 Oct. 8, 15, Nov. 18 – Nov. 30 Nov. 19 – Dec. 17 Nov. 19 – Dec. 17 (full season) Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Dec. 10 – Jan. 7 Nov. 19 – Dec. 3 Early and Late Antlerless Only Firearms Deer SeasonsEarly: September 3 through September 30 Late: January 8, 2024 through March 26, 2024

Note: You may check the dwr.virginia.gov website for the season regions for the aforementioned hunting dates.

VA Deer Bag Limits

LocationDaily Bag LimitLicense Year Bag LimitAntlered Deer LimitAntlerless Deer LimitOther Limitations East of Blue Ridge (except on National Forest lands in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties)263At least 3On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, and Prince William counties and in all cities and towns east of the Blue Ridge except in the cities of Chesapeake, Suffolk, and Virginia BeachUnlimitedNo more than 3 antlered deer in a license year-On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. West of Blue Ridge and on National Forest lands in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties252At least 3On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. All cities and towns west of the Blue RidgeUnlimitedMaximum 2 antlered deer in a license year-On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, or Rockbridge County-23 with at least 1 buck having 4 antler points, one inch or longer, on one side of the antlersOn National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Statewide Elk Hunting1 elk per day-

VA Deer Licenses

License TypeAgeFees Resident Sportsman’s License16 and older$100.00 Resident Youth Combination Hunting License12 to 15$16.00 Resident Hunting License* 1-year license16 and older$23.00 2-year license16 and older$44.00 3-year license16 and older$65.00 4-year license16 and older$86.00 Resident Senior Citizen Hunting License$9.00 Resident County or City Hunting License16 and older$16.00 Nonresident Youth Combination Hunting LicenseUnder age 16$31.00 Additional Requirements (may be required with a resident hunting license) Resident Deer License$23.00 Resident Junior Deer License12 to 15$8.50 Nonresident Deer License Valid July 1 through June 30 Age 16 and older$86.00 Age 12 to 15$16.00 Under age 12$13.00

Virginia requires a hunting license and a deer/turkey license from July 1 to June 30 to hunt deer. National Forest, State Forest Use, and Bonus Deer Permits may also be needed.

• Virginia hunters need a hunting and archery license to shoot deer with bows. Deer/turkey licenses, National Forest Permits, State Forest Use Permits, and Bonus Deer Permits may be needed.

• Hunting and muzzleloading licenses are needed to hunt deer in Virginia during muzzleloader season. Deer/turkey licenses, National Forest Permits, State Forest Use Permits, and Bonus Deer Permits may be needed. Archery or muzzleloading licenses are not needed for firearms deer season archery or muzzleloading hunting.

Hunting Regulation

• Deer tags indicate the hunted species. Both antlered and antlerless deer may use either-sex deer tags, but only antlerless deer can utilize antlerless-only tags.

• The animal must be marked with an either-sex deer tag and have antlers visible above the hairline to be classified as an antlered deer.

• Antlerless deer may only be hunted on either-sex days in the archery, muzzleloading, and firearms seasons, save for children and apprentice hunters. They do button bucks and shed-antlered bucks. Tags for antlerless deer are either either-sex or antlerless-only. Antlerless deer include antlered deer that have lost their antlers or have antlers below the hairline.

• Virginia resident and nonresident hunting permits are good for one year from purchase, except those valid from July 1 to June 30. These include the Virginia migrating waterfowl conservation stamp, bear, deer/turkey, and package licenses. Lifetime and two-year apprentice hunting permits are available. The Virginia Wildlife website lists hunter education requirements. Hunting licenses and permits cannot be altered, changed, borrowed, or lent.

• Deer hunting east of the Blue Ridge has a two-per-day and six-per-license-year bag limit. Unless otherwise stated, the six-deer quota must include at least three antlerless deer and no more than three antlered deer. Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, and Prince William counties and all cities and towns east of the Blue Ridge save Chesapeake, Suffolk, and Virginia Beach have no deer bag restriction. A license year may only kill three-antlered deer. One deer per day is allowed on National Forest and Department-owned and managed properties east of the Blue Ridge. Before hunting, no bag limits and other rules to be safe and legal.

• A license year limits the number of antlered bucks killed in Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, and Rockbridge counties. In these counties, a hunter must kill two antlered bucks with at least four one-inch antler points on one side.

• Antlered deer must have at least four one-inch antler points on one side to be lawfully taken in the Flippo-Gentry WMA and Featherfin WMA. These kiosks explain APR bounds.

• Bonus Deer Permits last year. Only antlerless deer may utilize these licenses on private and permitted public properties. Bonus Deer Permits are applicable only on authorized either-sex deer hunting days for all archery (including urban archery), muzzleloader, and firearm deer seasons (including early and late antlerless-only). These licenses let hunters capture more antlerless deer without exceeding the daily bag limit. Bonus Deer Permits are invalid in Buchanan, Dickenson, and Wise counties and on National Forest and Department-owned property. Hunters may buy unlimited Bonus Deer Permits.

• Tree stand hunting requires a full-body safety harness. Keep tied to the tree when off the ground and limit tether slack to lessen fall injury risk. Plan for emergency self-rescue. Use a haul rope to bring your unloaded rifle or bow into the tree stand. Crossbows may be lifted while cocked, but don’t load them until you’re in the stand and ready to hunt. Maintain manufactured tree stands per manufacturer recommendations. Homemade stands may collapse with time, causing accidents. To guarantee your tree stand is safe, visit the Consumer Product Safety Commission website. Even well-used tree stands may need to be fixed and recalled.

• Deers have a two-day and five-license-year bag restriction west of the Blue Ridge and on National Forest properties in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties. Unless otherwise stated, the five-deer limit requires at least three antlerless deer and no more than two antlered deer. All cities and municipalities west of the Blue Ridge have an unrestricted daily deer bag limit, but only two antlered deer each license year. National Forest and Department-owned/managed properties west of the Blue Ridge allow one deer per day. If a deer hunter kills two antlered bucks in Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, or Rockbridge County in a license year, at least one must have four antler points, one inch or longer, on one side. One elk per day is allowed statewide.

• Even license-exempt deer hunters have bag limits. Bonus deer permits or DCAP, DMAP, and DPOP permits enable hunters on private and approved public properties to capture more antlerless deer than the license-year bag limit. The daily and season bag limits do not apply to these exceptional deer licenses. Hunters with these special licenses may take more antlerless deer than the bag limit without violating the law.

Questions about the Virginia Deer hunting season

Both the .45-70 and the .30-06 are popular choices in the hunting community, especially among the large game hunters. But they also have a bunch of differences that set their performances apart.

These hard-hitting rounds work exceptionally well in close ranges, but as the range increases, the otherwise superior .45-70 loses accuracy and trajectory.

Today we’re making a head-to-head comparison between .45-70 vs .30-06 cartridges to help you find the best cartridge for you.

30-06 vs 45-70 Rounds: Head-to-Head Comparison

A Quick Look at the .45-70

The .45-70, AKA the “.45-70 gov/govt,” came out in the years following the American Civil War (1861-1865). These mighty cartridges were introduced by the U.S. Army’s Springfield Armory in 1873.

They became widely known as the “forty-five seventy” among the U.S. troops and hunters. Aside from being one of the primary ammo for the military, these hard-hitting bullets are capable of taking down any large game animal that roams around North America.

A Quick Look at the .30-06

The compact .30-06 rounds also have a history with the military. Also known as the .30-03 Springfield, these rounds were patterned after the famous 7x57mm Mauser cartridge that was used during the Spanish-American War.

The .30-06s are 30-caliber, rimless, and centerfire rifle cartridges that fire 0.308” diameter bullets. They were used in the semi-auto M1 Garand and a scoped variant of the 1903 Springfield for long-range shooting.

Known as the American Military Powerhouse, the .30-06 rounds became vastly popular among civilians and are still today, after 100+ years after its invention in 1906. They served in both world wars.

Key Differences Between the 45-70 and 30-06 Cartridges

Cartridge Size

.45-70

When it comes to cartridge size, the 45 70, compared to the 30 06 bullets, are a bit wider and feature a shorter case length.

The case length is one of the only two aspects where the numbers speak for the .30-06. The .45-70 also features a straight-walled design.

.30-06

In spite of being inferior to the .45-70 in almost all aspects, the 30-06 surprisingly packs a much heavier punch than the .45-70 in terms of SAAMI spec maximum pressure.

The shorter and narrower rounds literally dwarf the .45-70 with more than twice the pressure.

Property45-7030-06Parent CasingN/A.30-03Base Diameter0.505”0.471”Neck Diameter0.480”0.340”Bullet Diameter0.458”0.308”Case Capacity81.8 gr68 grCase Length2.105”2.494”Overall Length2.550”3.34”Max Pressure (SAAMI)28,000 psi60,200 psi

Ballistic coefficient

.45-70

To put it bluntly, the ballistic coefficient shows how aerodynamic a bullet is. The higher the number is, the better your bullet will perform against the wind.

The .45-70 is at a slight disadvantage here. The bullet is heavier. Despite performing really well in the close and mid-range, the performance of .45-70 bullets goes down a bit in the long-range.

.30-06

The heavier bullets usually come with a higher BC count, but not in this case! The aerodynamic design helps the .30-06 dominate in BC count, even at long ranges.

Recoil

.45-70

The amount of recoil felt depends on the shooter, the ammunition, and the weapon used. Heavier rifles tend to soak up some of the recoil energy so that it puts smaller stress on your shoulder.

Being heavier and armed with more firepower, the .45-70 will impart significantly heavier recoil energy (around 33 ft lbs) into your shoulder.

.30-06

Both the .30-06 and the .45-70 come with a high recoil profile. However, the recoil energy from the .30-06 is notably less (around 23 ft-lbs) than the .45-70.

In fact, they were specifically designed to have less recoil energy than the popular hunting cartridges of that time, like the 45-70.

Trajectory

.45-70

Usually, the heavier a bullet is, the higher muzzle velocity it produces. As a result, the bullet gradually loses momentum, and gravity takes more time to pull the bullet downwards.

The 45-70 cartridges are heavier than the .30-06, producing a more steep trajectory. That is why the performance also drops significantly downrange. You’ll not get good results if you are shooting from 300+ yards.

.30-06

The lighter .30-06 absolutely dominates this category with a much flatter trajectory than the .45-70. That’s why they are one of the most widely used cartridges in mid-to-long-range hunting across the globe.

Accuracy

.45-70

Accuracy is subjective, meaning it greatly depends on the person shooting and the firearm used. These hard-hitting rounds can deliver bone-crushing power at close range but lose accuracy significantly at longer ranges.

.30-06

With a flatter trajectory, the .30-06 dominates long-range hunting. These compact rounds can maintain their supersonic speed for a little over 1000 yards before the gravity and sit resistance starts to affect the accuracy.

If you are hunting within a range of 200-300 yards, you’ll notice no significant differences in the accuracy between the .45-70 and the .30-06.

However, the contrast will become harder to ignore as the range increases.

Use

.45-70

The .45-70 was a superhero at its time. It was one of the most powerful cartridges in the late 1800s and was used by the army in the American Indian Wars.

Aside from that, these powerful cartridges are also super efficient in harvesting large games and responsible for nearly wiping out the American Buffalo. They can easily take down big games like moose, grizzly, and elk as long as the range is within 200 yards.

.30-06

The 30-06 combats the mighty .45-70 with its longer effective shooting range. They can deliver more than 1,000 ft-lbs of force even past 500 yards.

As a result, the .30-06 can effectively make a clean kill from a long distance.

Availability

.45-70

As I’ve already mentioned, the .45-70 bullets require more material and are larger in dimensions. That is one of the reasons that the .45-70 cartridges are a bit expensive.

You’ll need to spend around $2.75/round for practice ammo and $5/round or more for premium hunting loads.

Additionally, these rounds were designed to use with lever-action rifles. As a result, you’ll have fewer options when it comes to rifles. The Marlin 1895 is one of the best guide guns for the .45-70.

.30-06

The 30-06 cartridges offer more variation to choose from in comparison with the .45-70. The .30-06 were military cartridges; thus, they are more widely available at a lower price.

They also offer a wider variety of bullet weight options (100gr-220gr) for small to large games. Standard .30-06 will cost about $1.50/round, whereas the premium loads will cost you double that amount.

Reloading

.45-70

The amount of available reload options in 45 70 compared to 30 06 is slightly lower. However, there are still plenty of loading options for hand loaders to choose from. As a result, the mighty .45-70 loses advantages despite offering a wide variety of customization.

.30-06

The compact .30-06 rounds take the lead with a far wider variety of options when it comes to custom reloading your bullets. Not only do they offer a common 0.308” diameter, but they also can utilize many different powders.

They require a large rifle primer and 30-caliber bullets. As a result, you’ll be able to craft hand loads for 4+ different calibers while purchasing only one caliber of bullet and primer size.

.30-06 vs .45-70: Which one to choose?

.45-70 vs .30-06: Which one should you pick? The answer will vary from person to person.

The .45-70 compared to .30-06 is still relatively popular among those who hunt big game animals in heavy cover and black-powder silhouette shooters. The 45-70 cartridges have served for over a century.

In justification of being more expensive, the hard-hitting big game .45-70 rounds offer bone-crushing muzzle energy that can be lethal for any game within 300 yards. If you’re a fan of big game hunting and have no issues with the price or the recoil, go for the .45-70.

On the flip side, if you’re more into long-range hunting, we recommend that you grab the compact .30-06. The stopping power and the long-range capabilities of these versatile rounds will make your game hunting more dynamic in a number of different hunting scenarios.

Even many modern rounds don’t come close to the popularity and raw stopping power that the.30-06 provides. They literally can harvest every four-legged animal across the North American continent.

The .30-06 bullets are also more cost-efficient. If you value those qualities, the compact 30-06 rounds won’t disappoint you at all. In conclusion, when talking about .45-70 vs .30-06, remember that the .45-70 works best at close-to mid-range whereas the .30-08 is perfect for long-range shooting.

FAQs

1. .45-70 vs .30-06 – what’s more powerful?

Ans. “More powerful” is something hard to define when talking about ammo. In general, .30-06 is more effective for large distances since it’s faster and has more energy than .45-70.

However, at short ranges, the .45-70 is more powerful against large animals but past that, the .30-06 wins against conventional game.

2. How far can I shoot a deer with a .45-70?

Ans. With a .45-70, you can hunt any game animal under 100 yards but for deer and elk, you can go 200 yards if you’re a skilled hunter.

3. 45-70 or 30-06 for bear hunting?

Ans. Both are fine and what matters most is the range here. The .45-70’s heavier mass is helpful when you’ll face off an angry bear at close range. On the other hand, the .30-06 will have more advantage with more energy as the range increases.

4. What was the 45-70 designed for?

Ans. The 45-70 was originally designed as a military round for the U.S Army in 1873, during their campaign against Native Americans in the Western United States. Since its launch, it has proven to be an effective tool that can take down virtually any game animal.

5. How far can a 30-06 shoot?

Ans. The maximum effective range of a 30-06 is about 800 yards for a skilled shooter, although it can reach up to 1000 yards with the right barrel and ammunition. Beyond that, it will still have some stopping power when shot at its maximum range, but accuracy will be severely affected.

Hunters who can dissect and recognize the unique activities that occur during the lockdown phase of the rut are the ones most likely to earn a trip to the taxidermist.

It doesn’t matter if you pick up a rifle once a year and climb into your only treestand, or if you hunt the entire deer season across multiple states, every whitetail hunter has one thing in common: anticipation of the rut. That’s because the rut always makes deer more visible, more likely to fall into our laps, and ultimately we have a better chance to see big bucks during this period of the season. We all buy tags with the goal of punching them, and even those of us self-proclaimed “meat hunters” are mesmerized by a fine set of antlers.

While the rut is often referred to as a singular event, in reality it’s a series of events that are all biologically neces- sary for deer to do their business and create more deer. You don’t have to be a biologist to understand the whitetail’s breeding rituals, and thankfully there are plenty of places to apply your knowl- edge and hunt during the heart of the rut — when daylight deer activity is at its annual peak and your odds of scoring are highest.

The lockdown phase of the rut helped me kill my best buck to date, after an eight-hour standoff in the Nebraska Sandhills. Before I share that story, let’s brush up on some rut realities with whitetail biologist Dr. Harry Jacobson, and discover why he’s also a fan of hunting bucks during the lockdown.

RUT TRIGGERS AND TIMING The breeding and birthing schedule of whitetails is optimized to maximize fawn recruitment. Research and logic suggest weather greatly dictates the timing of this schedule, so that does drop fawns when Mother Nature is feeling warm and fuzzy.

White-tailed does carry their fawns an average of 200 days no matter where they call home, but there are some notable differences in the rut across the whitetail’s range. For instance, white- tails in Canada breed only once per year, usually in October/November. Canadian fawns are thereby born during summer, when they have plenty of time to insulate their bones before winter’s harsh grip takes hold. On the opposite end of the spectrum, Southern deer, living where the average climate is moderate, have a wider breeding period.

A decreasing amount of daylight — or photoperiod — is the primary trigger for whitetails to prepare their bodies for breeding. We refer to this initial stage as the pre-rut. Bucks start getting antsy and they become increasingly drunk with testosterone, priming them to establish their role in the pecking order. They rub trees and lose velvet on their antlers, their necks swell, they make scrapes, and they start sparring to prepare for the breeding war that looms on the horizon. When it comes to does, however, these changes are mainly within their internal reproductive system and therefore less evident.

While photoperiod is the main factor influencing rut timing, genetics can also play a role. Jacobson pointed to a study in which a handful of deer were swapped between Michigan and Mississippi, and the deer “… shifted their reproductive patterns about three weeks earlier or later, depending on whether in Michigan or Mississippi. However, regardless of geographic location, the rut of Mississippi deer was about seven weeks later than that of the Michigan deer.” Intriguing data, but under natural circumstances with native deer, you should be able to closely predict annual rut timing in your neck of the woods by photoperiod — because it’s consistent year to year.

Pre-rut bucks begin traveling more, hoping to find the first hot does on their stomping grounds. “Usually the first does to come into estrus for the year will trigger most of the buck fighting activity,” Jacobson explained. “It might be three to four weeks before the peak of the rut. The fights are most serious at this time of year, so this is when most buck-fighting trauma occurs.”

The pre-rut is chaotic, as anxious bucks impatiently wait for does to fulfill their breeding desires. It can be an exciting, yet frustrating time to be in the woods. You’re likely to witness chasing, fighting and an overall surge in deer movement. But this is also when bucks become unpredictable, and those you see are likely to be on a mission and difficult to stop for a shot.

WATCH: WHAT TO DO AFTER FINDING DEER SIGN IN THE WOODS

PEAK RUT AND LOCKDOWN And now, the moment we’ve all been waiting for: the peak rut. It’s a critical event for whitetail hunters because a doe — or multiple does — are ready to bow-chik-a-wow-wow with bucks on your hunting ground. This goes hand in hand with lockdown.

Lockdown is when an estrous doe is being tended by a buck or multiple bucks. Estrus lasts approximately 24 hours and the doe might only be receptive to breeding a fraction of that time, so her suitor will stick to her like Gorilla Glue.

“During that period she usually gets pushed into thick cover by a dominant buck,” Jacobson said. But other bucks will often be lingering nearby, hoping for their chance at some action. “I’ve seen 12 to 14 bucks hanging around a doe,” Jacobson added.

Strategically, Jacobson recommends covering lots of ground to make the most of lockdown. “Bucks can be downright stupid during lockdown, but it’s pretty unpredictable where they’re going to show up, so I go look for them by spotting and stalking,” he said.

“You need larger acreages to be able to do it.” This is easiest done with a rifle in hand, but don’t think for a second it’s impossible as a bowhunter. “I’ve used this tactic in several places — Texas, New York, Mexico — and I haven’t hunted with a rifle for well over 30 years,” Jacobson said.

How far will a buck travel during peak rut? According to Jacobson, it depends on individual bucks.

“Basically, you’ve got two types of bucks: the searcher that travels throughout the countryside looking for receptive does, and the buck that just waits in the neighborhood for the action to begin. But when the rut is on, both types of bucks will be traveling way more than at any other time of year.”

Bucks in open country with sparse cover are also likely to travel farther than their brush-country brothers, and they’ll also be more visible. Chasing Western whitetails during the rut can be very fun and productive. Regardless of your location, there’s one constant as noted by Jacobson.

“Bucks are much more approachable during lockdown than they are at any other time in the season. As long as the doe doesn’t see you, the bucks are going to stay. They almost ignore you.”

Buck-to-doe ratios, nutritional conditions, habitat types and other local factors can influence such deer dynamics during lockdown. Generally speaking, most does in one area will go into estrus within a short time window and get the opportunity to mingle with at least one buck.

“With a very low buck-to-doe ratio, there’s a remote possibility a doe won’t be bred on her first cycle,” Jacobson noted. If she doesn’t get lucky, she will go into estrus again 21 to 29 days later — referred to by some as the second rut. “If you have good nutritional conditions, upward of 40 percent of yearlings will breed during their first year of life,” Jacobson said. “This usually happens a month or two after the first rut. They’re using that extra time to reach a critical body weight that allows them to carry fawns as yearlings.”

EIGHT HOUR STAND-OFF It was mid-November in north-central Nebraska — a remarkable region of the country where mule deer and whitetails thrive together in the rolling, rugged Sandhills. As I pulled into Goose Creek Outfitters, owner Scott Fink greeted me and my cameraman, Jeff “FaFa” Shelby. Two years had passed since I’d visited Goose Creek for an unforgettable mule deer hunt, when I killed my first muley buck that was locked down with a doe. This time, whitetails were on my mind.

Upon our arrival at dusk, I verified the zero of my Mossberg Patriot with Nosler Ballistic Tips punching a tight group at 100 yards. Scott added to the momentum of my confidence by laying out a game plan for the following morning. “A really big buck has been hanging around a swamp down the road. I think we’ll start by glassing that swamp tomorrow.” A deceiving warm breeze whispered across the prairie as we packed up and headed back to the Fink ranch, but ScoutLook Weather forecasted a cold front that would scream into the area overnight. Morning came quickly and two important predictions were validated as we glassed the Sandhills at sunrise: It was blistering cold and the swamp buck was there.

But the 150-class whitetail wasn’t across the road in the willow swamp where Scott expected. Instead, I spot- ted him through my 8X Nikon binocular on our side of the road — chasing a doe into a dense patch of cedars. Several minutes passed as I watched for the deer to pop out, but it didn’t happen. It was the tail end of the rut, but this buck was on lockdown with one last hot date.

These deer were tucked into a precarious position. They were downhill just far enough that I’d have to get even with them to be in comfortable rifle (and camera) range, but the only available cover would put them downwind. Scott backed out to reduce the human variable of our potential failure. FaFa and I plopped down in the wide open, with a stiff wind blowing across our desperate faces. I set up my shooting sticks and he deployed his camera tripod. We would wait until the buck surfaced outside the cedars, but like him, we knew this futile effort was at the mercy of a stubborn doe.

“There he is!” The buck came blazing out of the thicket on the doe’s heels. I didn’t even have time to shoulder my rifle, let alone prepare for a shot. They ran to the opposite side of an adjacent woodlot, out of sight. “Damn,” I whined to FaFa. “We’re probably screwed on this deal.” But holding onto a fragment of hope, we hurriedly ran uphill and circled around an evergreen windbreak, praying this would get us parallel to the deer while remaining downwind and in range. We found our new post and settled in.

The massive swamp buck reappeared in a flash, this time jumping a fence and showing himself just long enough to make us scramble for a shooting position, but just brief enough to compound our frustration as he disappeared again behind heavy cover. Seven hours had now passed since my first glimpse of this lockdown giant. The gloomy autumn light was fading, but our commitment to this hunt was burning stronger than ever.

One hour later — a total of eight hours on this rutting duo — I found a steady rest and sent a Ballistic Tip into the swamp buck’s broadside heart. Patience, determination and luck were all integral to my success … but I’d be remiss without extending some gratitude to the bossy doe that kept a lovesick buck on lockdown.

— Josh Dahlke is an outdoor writer and host of an online hunting film series called THE HUNGER. To see the author’s hunt featured in an exciting short film, search YouTube for “Hunting a giant whitetail on lockdown.” When his three freezers aren’t full of wild game, he suffers from anxiety and depression.

Flies and Roadrunner jigs were my most productive lures during my early years of crappie fishing. However, my selection of crappie lures has increased throughout the years as lure manufacturers continued to offer a variety of soft plastic baits for panfish. Some of the hottest soft plastic styles of crappie lures available today are double-tail grubs, minnow or shad imitators, twitch baits, and grubs.

Here’s a look at five Karl’s Amazing Baits for crappie and how you can use these lures to catch big slabs.

Martian

This is my favorite style of soft plastic baits for catching crappie in the winter when the fish are sluggish. Attached to a 1/16-ounce jighead, this lure can be fished ultra-slow because it doesn’t require much movement to make the thin twin tails quiver. I like to fish it vertically over deep brush piles and just let the movement of my boat create enough action on the lure to trigger bites from inactive crappie. The lure’s ribbed body is also ideal for holding scent gel in its ribs.

Mini Minnow

This is the soft plastic style I rely on for most of my crappie fishing tactics. The lure’s fluke-like design perfectly imitates the body of a minnow or young shad and its thin tail creates a subtle darting action similar to a fleeing baitfish. I can fish this lure vertically or horizontally for crappie suspended over brush piles and I frequently fish it 1 to 2 feet under a bobber to catch spawning crappie in the shallows. The lure’s subtle action and small profile make it ideal for tricking wary crappie in clear water.

Lil Twitchy

This miniature jerkbait features a classic minnow profile big crappie find irresistible. The lure’s single slender tail delivers a tantalizing quiver and shake with a twitch of the rod. I like to throw this lure on windy days when crappie are chasing shad along wind-blown rocky banks. It is also a good choice for fishing under a bobber with a twitch-and-pause retrieve.

Dub Grub

I rely on this grub for targeting aggressive crappie in dirty water. A heavier jighead such as a 1/8-ounce model will cause the lure to fall faster and generate the optimum action from its twin tails. I either cast this lure to brush piles and swim it over the cover or I pitch it into the brush and let it fall straight down to trigger strikes from crappie holding tight to the cover.

Paddle Grub

The kicking action of this 2-inch swimbait makes it the perfect choice for catching big crappie at various depths. When crappie are suspended high in the water column, I combine the swimbait with a 1/16-ounce darter jighead so the lure will fall slower and swim longer in the fish’s strike zone. I switch to a 1/8-ounce darter jighead for swimming the lure deeper in the water column. The paddletail provides plenty of kick so you can retrieve this lure at a slow, steady pace to trigger strikes from slab crappie.

Feature image credit: David Yang

Field judging black bears is notoriously difficult. They might just be one of the most difficult species to judge. Not only can it be hard to tell a big one from a little one, but sows and boars look very similar…and sows can get big!

If you’ve ever put yourself in a fast decision, quick draw scenario, then you know what it’s like to sit at a high stakes black bear gambling table. But, with a bit of pre-game day know-how and the help of a few tricks, those all too commonly experienced ground shrinkage issues should be no problem to steer clear of.

Field Judging Black Bears

1. Hunt an area that consistently produces big boars.
2. Learn how to know the difference between a sow and a boar.
3. Look for a stout neck and a wide head with “small” ears on the sides.
4. Look at the size of the body.
5. Watch how they move.
6. Compare them with the bait barrel.
7. Watch for rutting activity.

Hunt an area that consistently produces big boars.

Big bears are very particular about where they live. If you’re not hunting in those areas, you won’t kill a mature boar.

It is the giant super intellectual, predatory boars that keep every hunter daydreaming, and these old un-hunted crankers are our objective and goal. While these specific bears are choosy about a lot of things, much the same as any other big old age class animal, they are firstly very particular about where they live.

These giant boars will hold and defend prime areas.

If you are not in an area that has big bear, and focusses calculated strike effort specifically at them, you may as well have stayed home.

How to tell the difference between a sow and a boar.

The first thing when your field judging black bears is to determine whether it’s a sow or boar. At times this is exceedingly easy when it’s a mature boar, but it can sometimes be difficult to tell difference between a battle hardened old sow and a big boar. Age catches up to us all. Until boars start approaching adult weights at 7-9 years old, it can be very tough to tell them from sows.

When you hunt with an outfitter that targets large, age class boars, and discourages shooting sows will tip the odds in your favor. This management ideology just makes sense. After all, sows are crucial to population dynamics, they are the best big boar bait available.

If a bear has cubs with it, it’s a sow.

In every case where you see a larger sized bear with one or more quite notably smaller and obviously dependent bears, the larger bear is guaranteed to be a sow. However, many sows will have young of the year that they won’t bring with them into a bait site. They’ll stash their cubs in a tree before coming into the bait. Given any opportunity will kill cubs, a mature boar will kill and eat her cubs, so as to bring a sow into estrus cycle.

A dead ringer with sows is the visible presence of nipples.

On wet (nursing) sows with young, the cubs pull out hair around the nipples which can profile them, making them visible, even from broadside, and this can be especially evident on older, larger sows. A good outfitter will set up the bait to give you “angle views” that can really help in obtaining this visual.

Look at the head.

Female black bears have broad heads and narrow muzzles.

Females’ faces are slender and more pointed than males. The smaller the ears look and the farther apart they seem, the better the bear. If you can envision an imaginary upside down triangle on the bear’s head going down to its nose, and all sides are equal, then it’s a mature bear.

A mature boar’s head is quite wide, and will have a thicker, stouter neck.

Boars with some years under their belt will always appear to have smaller ears that are off more to the side of the head than up top. They can show a quite distinct center line crease that runs down their forehead from between their ears. This muscle structure can be quite predominate and noticeable on some big boars.

The smaller the ears look and the farther apart they seem, the better the bear.

If you can envision an imaginary upside down triangle on the bear’s head going down to its nose, and all sides are equal, then it’s a mature bear. A young bear’s head will look big and its ears will look huge and almost touch. Young bears also move at a quick pace and seem skittish and clumsy.

Body Size

Look at length of legs, chest size and how big the head is in comparison to the body.

If his head and ears look small in comparison to his body he’s a giant. If his legs look thick top to bottom, that’s a good sign. A boar’s leg will look as big below the knee as above the knee. A sow’s legs will have a V shape from top to bottom.

Mature boars will exhibit what appear to be blocky, low to the ground profiles.

Watch for bears that are exceptionally wide across the brisket with heavy, wide set front legs. Watch for what appears to be shorter more evenly tipped hair. Big boars do not normally look shaggy with longer ratty looking coats as do younger bear, though belly hair will hang low pronouncing the big belly look. Magnum old sows can exhibit these same profile traits though, so nothing is static. All of these confirmation dynamics are affected by genetics and range factors, and black bears are diverse creatures with individual traits, similar to people in that way.

There is nearly no mistaking a big boars, how they move and how they conduct themselves, especially when around other bears. Big is big. Nearly anyone can identify a true giant boar.

They will rule every roost they roll into. Other bears will openly display caution and fear when they make an appearance at the party. Yes they look just like that discovery channel monster on TV. Really big bears will have a crease down the center of their forehead, and often scars on their faces. A giant boar can also appear so big it looks like he’s dragging his belly when he moves.

If the neck looks almost as big in front of the shoulder as his body does behind the shoulder, he’s a shooter.

That said however, it’s an entirely different issue with a medium to large bear. Field judging black bears of this caliber becomes difficult. Even younger, smaller framed bear often look like they belong in this class without the strong utilization of visual sizing aids.

Big bears move like they are big.

Large bears also move slowly, swaying side to side with a big belly and an air of confidence about them.

They can display indecisiveness, but all animals including people take pause when thinking and processing info, however, they will not be the bear that gets jumpy at every sound out there. If a bear comes in and has all other bears clear and undivided attention, promoting rapid submission or displays of fear, it will be a boar.

The body language of a non-submissive large male in any specie is a rapid telltale of dominance, and such intolerant mannerism is as well the case with dominant big boars.

If you see ripped up ears and/or heavy facial fight scarring on a big bear, do not waste any more time looking, it is show time. If you see a larger profile bear moving and trailing a smaller bear into the bait site, take the time to be sure, but it is virtually guaranteed to be a boar following a hot sow in.

A great method for field judging black bears is to compare them to the bait barrel.

If a bear is as tall as a barrel standing on its end, shoot!

Bait barrels are a great tool to use in size determination. In addition, it really helps to cut logs at each bait site that are 5 feet in length. If a bear meets/exceeds the length of these on the ground, it will likely be a shooter.

To aide in sex identification, strategically placed tree mounted “candy” jars provide a standing, unobstructed belly view.

Hopefully this overview can help a bit with this notorious subject of field judging black bears.

Big black bears can be a challenge to successfully square off with, but so long as moves are calculated, one nearly cannot go wrong. The hope is for giant net book 21 inch boars to be the first bear to walk in on everyone out there, but until that happens, keep looking those bear over and have fun!

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There’s no doubt about Gaston Glock’s pistol, it’s a good gun.

But can it be better?

Absolutely.

One of the most obvious improvements would be an upgraded trigger system. There are roughly a million different upgrades for the trigger out there…so how do you choose?

That’s where we come in…we’ve bought, used, and tested the most popular triggers over thousands of rounds.

Obligatory disclaimer that you should have a qualified gunsmith install and test all this stuff.

THE QUICK LIST

Stock Glock with 25 Cent Trigger Job & 3.5 lb Connector

Let’s establish a baseline trigger.

Many will say to get a better Glock trigger, you just have to shoot it. And they are right.

Thousands and thousands of rounds (or dry-fire) will polish up the internals and make the trigger much better. Not custom 1911 level…but better than when you bought it.

We cover how to do the infamous Glock 25 Cent Trigger Job with some polishing compound and Dremel.

Another affordable upgrade I do is upgrading the stock 5 lb connector with a Lone Wolf or Ghost 3.5 lb connector. If you built a Polymer80 Glock with a Lone Wolf frame kit…you already have the 3.5 lb connector.

Doing both in my G19 brings the trigger pull down from around 6 lb 6 oz to 5 lb 4 oz and makes it much crisper and with a smoother reset. Perfect for general purpose and maintaining the stock safeties.

Here’s a quick video on the first pull and reset so we have a baseline for the others.

Perfectly manageable, but still room for improvement!

Best Glock Triggers

1. Apex Tactical Glock Enhancement Trigger

Apex is well known for improving the turd of a trigger that comes on Smith and Wesson M&Ps, especially the first models that hit the streets. Obviously, they’ve expanded, or they wouldn’t be on this list.

Apex’s Glock Enhancement Trigger came out a few years ago and is one of the most affordable drop-in trigger systems.

When I say drop-in trigger…I mean it.

It’s a self-contained system with a trigger, trigger bar, and disconnector all built together. You remove your standard Glock guts and fill in the blank. It’s a very simple installation process and very convenient.

The Apex trigger gives you a quick stop initially, so you know when to ease and squeeze the trigger. There’s some minor pull before a clean break.

Also, a much shorter reset that’s followed by a similar pull and clean break again.

Red not doing it for you…they have purple and black too.

One big difference is the flat-faced trigger that still maintains the safety features of the standard Glock. I definitely like flat-faced triggers after using the Apex a bunch. It’s also a little meatier than the other triggers, which I like.

You can combine upgrades with the Zev Competition Spring kit, which I heavily recommend. With it and a polish job…my trigger pull is 5 lb 7 oz and much smoother.

However, I found with mine that I got light primer strikes with the use of the reduced weight striker spring. So be sure to test.

If that happens to you…you might need the Zev Skeletonized Striker ($79) to take full advantage of the springs.

The Apex Glock trigger is my pick for best bang-for-the-buck since it looks cool, is reliable, improves upon the stock trigger, and is priced right.

What’s your take on the Apex trigger? Rate it below.

2. Velocity Trigger

This Velocity Trigger I got sent for testing, and I put it in a new Polymer 80 build with a SeeAll Sight and matching gold Faxon Barrel.

It’s much thinner than the Apex or stock Glock trigger. The flat-faced trigger is also ridged for your finger’s pleasure with a lower-activating safety.

With stock springs and only a 3.5 connector, I was getting 4 lb 12 oz. With the competition spring kit…it should go down some more.

However…one big thing I didn’t like was that in my P80 build and my style of pressing the trigger (pretty high up with thin fingers)…many times, the “safe-action” trigger wouldn’t engage. And I’d be left with no PEW.

Whatever at the range…annoying at a competition…but potentially deadly in a real-life encounter. Not that I would recommend having anything modified on your gun for self-defense.

Otherwise, the trigger was great…longer pull after the initial stop and a nice click.

I would recommend for competition/range if you’re finger placement is usually on the lower half of the trigger or if you have thicker fingers than I do.

3. Overwatch Precision Trigger

The Overwatch Precision is from another P80 build. It also has the competition spring kit.

With everything…I get a super soft 2 lb 12 oz trigger pull. However…it’s pretty spongy when compared to the other triggers. Nice reset, though.

But…runs into the same safety reset problem as with the Velocity (so make sure you press lower or have thicker fingers).

My pick if you really want a light trigger pull throughout. I personally prefer less spongy (even at the expense of pull-weight), so this is my least favorite trigger out of all the series.

4. Zev Fulcrum Ultimate Trigger

My favorite trigger that lives in my G34 for competition shooting. What I’ve shot the most besides stock Glock triggers.

It breaks the cleanest without a lot of pre-travel and no mushiness. Combined with a little 25-cent trigger job polishing and the lightest springs…it comes in at under 3 lb 10 oz.

It’s not much to look at when installed…but the kit comes with an entirely new trigger assembly, lightened springs, and lightened striker (or else sometimes, when you only change springs, you get light primer strikes).

Plus…adjustable pre-travel and over-travel to get YOUR perfect trigger pull. This all comes at a price, though!

5. Tyrant CNC ITTS Trigger

Want a nicer-looking trigger but don’t want to change your trigger pull?

You can check out the Tyrant CNC ITTS Trigger, which replaces the trigger shoe with something purrty.

Easy enough to install with instructions right here.

It keeps your original trigger pull for safety reasons but makes your Glock look a whole lot better!

And while it doesn’t change the performance of the pull, that machined aluminum sure does feel nice. They come in different color combinations too!

6. Timney Alpha Glock 5

First off, I like the Gen 5 Glock trigger and consider it to be a significant improvement over previous generations.

Pressing back on the trigger, it travels back a few millimeters with minor resistance before stopping at a pretty well-defined wall. Pushing beyond this, the trigger breaks crisply at an average of around 4 pounds on my Lyman Digital Gauge.

Reset occurs after a slight release and is both audible and tactile. It’s a great trigger for a striker-fired gun, and I have definitely gotten used to it.

Given Timney’s overall reputation in triggers, I was excited to try the Alpha Glock 5. So I cracked open the package and started putting it in.

Installation was a little challenging due to the small parts, but the instructions were detailed and included good photos. Then, the trigger return spring has to be compressed on the inside of the locking block while installing the locking block.

After installing, I noticed the surface of the all-aluminum trigger shoe was smoother, and the interface with the safety bar in the trigger was also smoother.

The pull weight felt lighter, and I confirmed this on the gauge at an average of 2.5 pounds.

During press, the previously defined wall before break felt softer. And finally, trigger reset felt a bit longer to reach but was still audible and tactile.

Out at the range, the trigger truly shines with a performance you soon become accustomed to and can repeat easily. It’s a great upgrade for around $150.

Honorable Mentions

There are a lot of Glock triggers. Here are some honorable mentions:

• Agency Arms ($160): Pretty good as well…but I’d still take the Apex with the spring kit. Personal preference, though…tons of people love it.
• Lone Wolf Adjustable ($75): The P80 kit trigger is actually pretty good…and this adjustable upgrade is not too shabby either.
• CMC Trigger ($170): Another popular one, but was meh to me when I tried it.

Final Thoughts

We can all agree that sometimes swapping out a Glock factory trigger for something a little nicer can make all the difference when it comes to shooting.

And hopefully, we’ve given you some options to kick your Glock up a notch.

How did we do…what other triggers did we miss that we can test for the next update? Let us know. For a perfect trigger tune-up, make sure to grab a trigger pull gauge. We have our recommendations here!