If you’re looking to master the art of cutting a tomahawk steak, you’ve come to the right place. With its impressive bone-in presentation and succulent marbling, the tomahawk steak is a true showstopper on any grill or plate.

In this guide, we’ll walk you through the step-by-step process of properly cutting a tomahawk steak, ensuring that you achieve perfect slices that do justice to this flavorful cut of beef.

First, make sure you have a sharp knife that can easily glide through the meat. Begin by identifying the bone that extends from the center of the steak’s thickness, resembling a tomahawk axe handle.

This bone adds flavor and moisture to the meat during the cooking process, making it essential for the overall taste.

Next, position the tomahawk steak on a cutting board with the bone facing upwards. Start by slicing horizontally through the outer fat, creating a clean incision that exposes the meat underneath. Use gentle, controlled motions to avoid cutting into the bone.

Once you’ve created this initial incision, it’s time to reveal the beautifully cooked meat. Hold the bone firmly and carefully make vertical cuts, perpendicular to the bone, to create individual slices of your desired thickness. Take your time and adjust the pressure as needed to ensure clean cuts and presentable portions.

Remember, presentation is key when serving a tomahawk steak. Arrange the sliced portions

Choosing the Perfect Tomahawk Steak

When it comes to indulging in a delicious and mouthwatering steak, the tomahawk steak is hard to beat. This impressive cut of beef is known for its large size, frenched bone, and exceptional marbling, making it a show-stopping centerpiece for any special occasion or backyard barbecue.

However, with so many options available, choosing the perfect tomahawk steak can be a daunting task. In this section, we will guide you through the factors to consider to ensure that you select the best tomahawk steak for an unforgettable dining experience.

1. Quality and Grade

The first and most important factor to consider when choosing a tomahawk steak is its quality and grade. The quality of the steak is determined by the amount and distribution of marbling throughout the meat.

Marbling refers to the white streaks of fat that are dispersed within the muscle, enhancing the tenderness, juiciness, and flavor of the steak.

When it comes to grades, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) assigns three main categories: Select, Choice, and Prime. Select is the lowest grade, with minimal marbling, while Choice has a moderate amount of marbling, and Prime is the highest grade, with abundant marbling.

For a truly exceptional tomahawk steak, opt for Prime grade if available. However, Choice grade can also provide a delicious and flavorful steak.

2. Size and Thickness

Another crucial factor to consider when choosing a tomahawk steak is its size and thickness. The tomahawk steak is renowned for its impressive size, often weighing around 2 to 3 pounds. However, you can also find smaller tomahawk steaks that are perfect for individual servings.

The thickness of the steak is equally important, as it affects the cooking time and doneness.

A thicker tomahawk steak will take longer to cook and may result in a more medium-rare or medium doneness, while a thinner steak will cook faster and may lean towards a medium or medium-well doneness. Choose the size and thickness that best suits your preferences and cooking method.

3. Source and Origin

Knowing the source and origin of your tomahawk steak is essential for several reasons. Firstly, it ensures that you are purchasing a steak from a reputable and trusted supplier.

Secondly, it allows you to support local farmers and businesses. Finally, it provides insight into the rearing and feeding practices of the cattle, which can impact the flavor and quality of the meat.

Look for tomahawk steaks that are sourced from sustainable and ethical farms, known for their commitment to animal welfare and environmentally friendly practices.

Additionally, consider opting for locally sourced tomahawk steaks to support your local community and reduce the carbon footprint associated with long-distance transportation.

4. Price and Budget

While tomahawk steaks are undoubtedly a luxurious and decadent choice, they can also come with a hefty price tag. Consider your budget and the occasion when choosing a tomahawk steak.

If you’re looking to impress guests or celebrate a special occasion, investing in a high-quality tomahawk steak may be worth it. However, if you’re on a tighter budget or planning a more casual gathering, there are still delicious options available at a more affordable price point.

Remember that the price of the tomahawk steak will vary depending on factors such as the quality, grade, size, and source. Take these into account when selecting a steak that aligns with your budget.

5. Personal Preferences

Ultimately, your personal preferences should play a significant role in choosing the perfect tomahawk steak. Consider how you like your steak cooked, whether you prefer a leaner or well-marbled cut, and any specific dietary restrictions or preferences.

If you enjoy a tender and melt-in-your-mouth steak, opt for a tomahawk steak with ample marbling. On the other hand, if you prefer a leaner cut with a bolder beef flavor, consider choosing a tomahawk steak with less marbling.

Additionally, take into account any special dietary requirements, such as grass-fed or organic options. Many suppliers offer a variety of tomahawk steaks to cater to different preferences and dietary needs.

Preparing the Tomahawk Steak for Cutting

Once you have obtained a high-quality Tomahawk steak, it is important to prepare it properly before cutting into it. This will ensure that you maximize the flavor and tenderness of the meat. Here are the steps to follow:

1. Remove the steak from the refrigerator: Take the Tomahawk steak out of the refrigerator and allow it to come to room temperature. This will help the meat cook more evenly.
2. Season the steak: Generously season the steak with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper on all sides. You can also add any additional spices or herbs of your choice to enhance the flavor.
3. Let it rest: After seasoning, let the steak rest for about 30 minutes. This allows the seasonings to penetrate the meat and enhances the overall flavor.
4. Preheat the grill: While the steak is resting, preheat your grill to high heat. Tomahawk steaks are best cooked over direct heat.
5. Oil the grates: To prevent the steak from sticking to the grill, lightly oil the grates. Use tongs and a folded paper towel dipped in oil to rub the grates.
6. Sear the steak: Place the seasoned Tomahawk steak directly on the hot grill grates. Sear it for about 2-3 minutes per side to create a flavorful crust.
7. Move to indirect heat: Once the steak is seared, move it to a cooler part of the grill or reduce the heat to medium. This will allow the steak to cook more gently and evenly.
8. Use a meat thermometer: To ensure that your Tomahawk steak is cooked to your desired level of doneness, use a meat thermometer. The internal temperature should reach 130°F (medium-rare), 140°F (medium), or 150°F (medium-well).
9. Rest the steak: Once the steak reaches the desired temperature, remove it from the grill and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. This allows the juices to redistribute and ensures a more tender and flavorful steak.

By following these steps, you will be able to prepare your Tomahawk steak for cutting and enjoy a delicious and perfectly cooked piece of meat.

Remember, cooking times may vary depending on the thickness of the steak and the heat of your grill, so it’s important to use a meat thermometer for accurate results. Enjoy your meal!

Essential Tools for Cutting a Tomahawk Steak

When it comes to cutting a tomahawk steak, having the right tools can make all the difference. This thick, bone-in ribeye steak requires some specialized equipment to ensure that you can slice through it effortlessly and present a perfectly cooked piece of meat. Here are the essential tools you’ll need:

1. Tomahawk Steak

Before you even think about cutting a tomahawk steak, you’ll need to have one on hand. This beautifully marbled, bone-in ribeye is known for its unique Frenched bone that resembles a tomahawk axe handle, hence its name.

Make sure you source a high-quality tomahawk steak from a trusted butcher or specialty meat shop.

2. Cutting Board

A sturdy and spacious cutting board is a must-have for cutting a tomahawk steak. Look for a board that is large enough to accommodate the size of your steak and has enough space for you to maneuver your knife comfortably.

A cutting board made of wood or plastic is recommended to prevent bacterial contamination and ensure easy cleanup.

3. Boning Knife

A boning knife is an essential tool for cutting a tomahawk steak, especially when it comes to removing the meat from the bone. Look for a sharp, narrow-bladed boning knife that allows for precise and controlled cuts.

The flexibility of the blade will help you navigate around the bone and separate the meat easily.

4. Carving Knife

Once you have separated the meat from the bone, a carving knife will come in handy for slicing the tomahawk steak into individual portions. A long, thin-bladed carving knife with a sharp edge will ensure clean cuts and help you achieve the desired thickness for each slice.

5. Meat Thermometer

When cooking a tomahawk steak, it’s crucial to monitor the internal temperature to achieve the desired level of doneness. A reliable meat thermometer will help you determine when the steak is cooked to perfection.

Insert the thermometer into the thickest part of the meat, away from the bone, and refer to a temperature guide for your preferred level of doneness.

6. Tongs

Tongs are essential for handling the tomahawk steak while it’s on the grill or in the oven. Opt for long, sturdy tongs that provide a good grip and allow you to flip the steak with ease. Avoid using a fork, as it can pierce the meat and cause the juices to escape, resulting in a drier steak.

7. Grill or Oven

Depending on your preference, you can cook a tomahawk steak on a grill or in the oven. A grill will give you those beautiful grill marks and a smoky flavor, while the oven will provide more controlled heat. Whichever method you choose, make sure it is properly preheated to the recommended temperature.

8. Resting Rack

After you have cooked the tomahawk steak, it’s crucial to let it rest for a few minutes before slicing. A resting rack allows the juices to redistribute within the meat, resulting in a more flavorful and tender steak. Place the steak on the rack and cover it loosely with foil to retain heat.

With these essential tools at your disposal, you’ll be well-equipped to tackle the task of cutting a tomahawk steak. Remember to handle the steak with care and always prioritize safety when using sharp knives. Enjoy the process and savor the delicious results!

Step-by-Step Guide to Cutting a Tomahawk Steak

Are you a steak lover looking to impress your guests with a perfectly cooked and beautifully presented tomahawk steak? Look no further! In this step-by-step guide, we will walk you through the process of cutting a tomahawk steak from a prime rib roast.

With a few simple techniques and the right tools, you’ll be able to create a restaurant-worthy tomahawk steak in the comfort of your own kitchen.

Step 1: Choose the Right Cut

The first step in cutting a tomahawk steak is selecting the right cut of meat. Look for a well-marbled prime rib roast that has been dry-aged for at least 21 days. Dry-aged beef develops a more concentrated and intense flavor, making it ideal for a tomahawk steak.

Step 2: Gather Your Tools

Before you begin the cutting process, make sure you have the necessary tools on hand. You will need a sharp boning knife, a sturdy cutting board, and a pair of kitchen shears. It’s important to have sharp tools to ensure clean and precise cuts.

Step 3: Locate the Bone

Place the prime rib roast on your cutting board with the bones facing upwards. Locate the bone that runs along the edge of the roast. This bone will serve as the handle of your tomahawk steak, giving it its distinctive appearance.

Step 4: Remove the Rib Cap

Using your boning knife, carefully separate the rib cap from the meat. The rib cap is a layer of fat and connective tissue that sits on top of the meat.

Start at one end of the roast and slowly work your way along the bone, gently separating the rib cap from the meat. Set the rib cap aside for later use, as it can be cooked separately for additional flavor.

Step 5: French the Bone

Next, you’ll want to “French” the bone to enhance the presentation of your tomahawk steak. Using your kitchen shears, remove the excess meat and fat from the bone, exposing it for a clean and elegant look. This process will give your tomahawk steak that iconic “handle” appearance.

Step 6: Trim the Meat

After removing the rib cap and Frenching the bone, it’s time to trim any excess fat or connective tissue from the meat. This will help ensure even cooking and a more tender steak. Use your boning knife to carefully trim away any unwanted parts, leaving behind a well-marbled piece of meat.

Step 7: Cut Individual Steaks

Finally, it’s time to cut individual tomahawk steaks from the prime rib roast. Start by cutting perpendicular to the bone, creating thick, bone-in steaks.

Aim for a steak thickness of around 2 inches for that perfect balance of tenderness and juiciness. Once you have cut the steaks, you can season them with your favorite spices and herbs before cooking.

Step 8: Cook and Serve

Now that you have successfully cut your tomahawk steaks, it’s time to cook them to perfection. Whether you prefer grilling, pan-searing, or using a sous vide method, make sure to cook the steaks to your desired level of doneness.

Let the steaks rest for a few minutes before serving to allow the juices to redistribute. Serve your tomahawk steaks with a side of roasted vegetables or a loaded baked potato for a complete and satisfying meal.

5. Tips and Tricks for a Perfectly Cut Tomahawk Steak

If you’re a meat lover, then you’ve probably heard of the mighty Tomahawk steak. Known for its impressive presentation and succulent flavor, this cut of meat is a true showstopper.

However, cooking and cutting a Tomahawk steak can be a bit intimidating if you’re not familiar with the process. Fear not, as we’ve compiled some useful tips and tricks to help you master the art of preparing a perfectly cut Tomahawk steak.

1. Choosing the Right Tomahawk Steak

The first step to achieving a fantastic Tomahawk steak is choosing the right cut of meat. Look for a steak with a thick bone and well-marbled meat.

The bone not only adds an impressive visual appeal but also helps in maintaining the steak’s tenderness and juiciness. Additionally, the marbling is crucial for flavor and ensures the steak remains moist and flavorful during cooking.

2. Preparing the Steak

Before you start cooking your Tomahawk steak, it’s essential to let it come to room temperature. Allowing the steak to sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes helps ensure even cooking throughout the meat. Season the steak generously with salt and pepper, or your favorite steak seasoning, for a burst of flavor.

3. Cooking Techniques

There are several cooking techniques you can use to cook the perfect Tomahawk steak. Here are a couple of popular options:

1. Reverse Sear: This method involves slow cooking the steak at a low temperature before searing it on high heat to achieve a beautifully charred exterior. Start by placing the steak in a preheated oven at around 275°F (135°C) until it reaches your desired internal temperature. Finish by searing the steak on a hot grill or cast-iron skillet for a few minutes on each side.
2. Grilling: Grilling a Tomahawk steak is a classic and straightforward method. Preheat your grill to high heat and place the steak over direct heat. Sear for a few minutes on each side to achieve the desired doneness. For added flavor, you can also use wood chips or chunks to create a smoky aroma.

4. Resting and Carving

Once your Tomahawk steak is cooked to perfection, it’s crucial to let it rest before slicing. Resting allows the juices to redistribute throughout the meat, resulting in a juicier and more tender steak. Wrap the steak loosely in aluminum foil and let it rest for about 10 minutes.

When it comes to carving a Tomahawk steak, you’ll want to make thick, impressive slices. Start by removing the bone, which can be easily done by cutting along the bone and using a gentle sawing motion.

Once the bone is removed, slice the steak against the grain into thick pieces, around 1 inch (2.5 cm) thick. Serve the slices on a platter and enjoy!

5. Serving Suggestions

A perfectly cut Tomahawk steak deserves the perfect accompaniments. Here are a few serving suggestions to elevate your dining experience:

• Classic sides: Pair your steak with classic sides like mashed potatoes, roasted vegetables, or a fresh green salad.
• Sauces: Consider serving the steak with flavorful sauces such as peppercorn sauce, chimichurri, or a rich mushroom sauce.
• Wine pairing: Enhance the flavors of your Tomahawk steak with a bold red wine, such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Malbec.

Now that you’re armed with these tips and tricks, you’re ready to tackle a perfectly cut Tomahawk steak.

Whether you’re grilling for a special occasion or simply indulging in a delicious meal, mastering the art of preparing this impressive cut of meat will surely impress your guests or satisfy your own meat cravings. Enjoy!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

1. How to cut a tomahawk steak?

To cut a tomahawk steak, start by placing the steak with the bone-side down on a cutting board. Use a sharp knife to make a horizontal cut along the bone, separating the meat from the bone. Then, make vertical cuts to portion the steak into individual servings. Serve and enjoy!

2. How long should I cook a tomahawk steak?

The cooking time for a tomahawk steak will vary depending on the thickness of the steak and the desired level of doneness.

As a general guide, grill the steak for 4-5 minutes per side for medium-rare, or adjust the cooking time according to personal preference. Use a meat thermometer to ensure the steak reaches the desired internal temperature.

3. How should I season a tomahawk steak?

For a delicious tomahawk steak, season it generously with salt and pepper on all sides. You can also add additional spices or a dry rub for extra flavor. Allow the seasoning to penetrate the steak by letting it sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before cooking. This will enhance the taste and tenderness of the steak.

Conclusion

In conclusion, learning how to cut a tomahawk steak is a valuable skill for any home cook or aspiring chef. By following the proper technique, you can ensure beautiful, evenly cooked steaks that are sure to impress your guests. Remember to start with a high-quality tomahawk steak and use a sharp knife to create clean cuts.

Take your time and follow the bone’s natural curve to achieve those iconic long, exposed bones. Whether you’re grilling, broiling, or pan-searing, the tomahawk steak is guaranteed to provide a flavorful and visually stunning dining experience.

Cutting a tomahawk steak is not only about technique but also about appreciating the art of cooking. The bone-in presentation adds elegance to the dish, making it a standout choice for special occasions or celebrations.

From its marbling to its tenderness, the tomahawk steak is a prime cut that commands attention. With practice and patience, you can master the art of cutting and enjoy this indulgent and satisfying piece of meat.

From knives to backpacks and bikes, the accessories you bring into the deer woods can be game-changers. Here’s what’s new for 2024.

1. Trophyline Venatic Saddle

At a scant 20 ounces, the Venatic takes lightweight saddle hunting to another level. It weighs just 30 ounces with the bridge and carabiner, all the while keeping you safely elevated and mobile so you stay focused on what matters: the hunt. Manufactured entirely in the U.S.A., the Venatic is made of rugged ripstop fabric that’s breathable and deadly silent. It features a rubberized waistband, Raptor waist and leg strap buckles, a rigid rubber MOLLE band and two bands of additional MOLLE to keep you safe and stealthy. A saddle compression hook, durable foldback lineman loops and an adjustable waist buckle round out the Venatic, resulting in an innovative saddle that’s so comfortable you won’t even notice it’s there. Comes with a Prusik and Black Diamond carabiner. Pick up a Venatic and you’ll quickly realize you are sitting in the future of hunting saddles!

MSRP: $299.99 | trophyline.com

2. TrophylineSumpter Pack

Designed for remote-access hunting, the Sumpter Pack uses an aluminum frame to stay light and mobile. Its durable, lightweight nylon fabric resists tears while keeping the weight of the pack down to less than 6 pounds. The Sumpter includes not only a bow scabbard and a saddle pouch, but also a Meat sling with G hooks that deploys up and over the pack, providing plenty of storage for packing your deer out of the wildlands. An adjustable torso (16-19 inches) and a solid one-piece, breathable back panel make the Sumpter uber-comfortable, while 19 pockets keep all your gear organized and ready for use. Those filming their hunt will appreciate the camera arm/tripod sleeves, and everyone will find the Sumpter’s 2,600 cubic inches more than enough space for all hunting and survival gear. If you’ve been waiting for a rigid and robust pack that will handle your saddle gear and meat from your successful hunt, the Sumpter is the pack for you.

MSRP: $229.99 | trophyline.com

3. Outdoor Edge Razor Pro S

Expanding Outdoor Edge’s popular RazorPro family of knives, the new RazorPro S contains a bone saw made of 65 MN spring steel for wear resistance and the popular RazorPro 3.5-inch 420J2 stainless steel drop point blade. The RazorPro S has a rubberized TPR handle, replaceable RazorSafe blades and a spring steel saw with chrome coating, providing years of use for bowhunters and other outdoor enthusiasts. Like the RazorPro, the RazorPro S comes with six Drop Point replacement blades and a Kryptek camouflage sheath for storage and easy access. Best of all, it’s small enough to easily fit in your pocket or backpack, making it your go-to knife for field-dressing and other chores. The RazorPro S will be available in the spring of 2024, giving you a cutting-edge cutter that will effortlessly handle all your needs in the field.

MSRP: $89.99 | outdooredge.com

4. MTM Case-Gard Traveler Arrow Case

Bowhunters journeying to a weekend and/or out-of-state hunt will want the Traveler Arrow Case, a compact case that is only 2 inches thick and fits in most hard and soft bow cases. The Traveler holds up to six broadhead-tipped arrows and three practice arrows safely and securely, while additional internal storage between foam sets is perfect for storing small accessories. Constructed of rugged polypropylene, it will hold arrows up to 34 inches in length, while notched padding protects arrow fletching and keeps broadheads razor-sharp. Made in smoke color with clear-view windows, the arrow case provides unobstructed views of points and fletching. The Traveler is made in the U.S.A. and comes with a five-year guarantee. There’s also a Traveler Bolt Case for crossbow hunters.

MSRP: $18.41 | mtmcase-gard.com

5. Redline Bowhunting Scabbard

For hunters looking for a heavy-duty bow sling, meet the Redline Scabbard — a tough bow transportation aid that will enable you to traipse through the toughest hunting terrain with ease. It includes a padded shoulder strap for comfort, and a sight cover and padded cam covers to protect your valuable bow accessories. Mossy Oak camo keeps it concealed while traveling, while four-way-stretch material provides a custom fit for all bows. The sling accommodates bows 28-31 inches long and includes dual-clasp attachment points.

MSRP: $59.99 | redlinebowhunting.com

6. Bohning Black Sky 2.0 Bolts

The new BLACK SKY 2.0 and 3.0 crossbow bolts from Bohning Archery are the first fully finished bolts the company has produced, giving horizontal deer hunters accurate downrange precision out to 90 yards. The new bolts have been extensively tested on a variety of today’s most popular crossbows, producing amazingly accurate shots. For example, one testing sequence generated consistent sub-3-inch groups with a fixed-blade broadhead out to 92 yards using a crossbow that shoots 450 feet per second. Two models are available for crossbows both with and without rails. The Black Sky 3.0 uses a 3-inch Shield Cut Low Profile vane cut for railed bows, while the Black Sky 2.0 uses a 2-inch Leading Edge Blazer Vane Profile for crossbows without rails. Each package includes three bolts and Bohning’s 100-grain Premium Points that are guaranteed to be within 1/4 grain weight.

MRSP: $59.00 | bohning.com

7. QuietKat Ibex

Bowhunters who need to access the wild beyond will appreciate the Ibex, a full-suspension electric bicycle made for hunting, fishing and any other overland adventure you can think of. As sure-footed as the legendary Bigfoot, the Ibex can keenly scale the steepest mountains, while also enabling users to make swift descents over uneven ground. While the Ibex was built to effortlessly climb steep topography, it can also cut cleanly through wet snow and glide through bogs and other low country. The Ibex uses 4.8-inch CST tires and an upgraded FireLink 4-Bar rear suspension to produce ample 130mm of travel to command rugged terra. The Bafang UltraDrive motor delivers an incredible 1,000 watts, while the long-lasting 21Ah battery provides extra range to push farther into the deepest woods where whitetails lie low. And with Tektro hydraulic disc brakes and adjustable front and rear suspension, the Ibex keeps you comfortable and in control on unforgiving terrain.

MSRP: $6,799.00 | quietkat.com

8. Flambeau Scrapper Buck Decoy

Flambeau’s Scrapper Buck decoy is designed to agitate, not intimidate other deer. Its adolescent presentation is based on a carving by award-winning sculptor Chris Schiller. The decoy is designed to coax in any buck that’s looking to mark and protect its territory. The decoy’s inferior size and rack replicates that of an inferior 2½-year-old. The decoy’s legs store conveniently into the body cavity. Included are ground stakes, a faux tail and a blaze-orange carrying bag for safety in the field.

MSRP: $200 | flambeauoutdoors.com

Check out more top gear for 2024:

Top 7 Scent Elimination Products for 2024

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Top 5 Crossbows for 2024

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Top 9 Bow Sights, Releases and Rests for 2024

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The versatility of a shotgun cannot be matched by many other types of firearms. You can select from a wide variety of gauges, barrel lengths, chokes, shot sizes, and more. This allows a shooter to utilize a shotgun for a multitude of purposes like hunting, home defense, and sporting clays.

However, all the different varieties and purposes can be overwhelming to new shotgun owners. Instead of covering every potential shotgun variation, it’s best to focus on the biggest question new shooters have, “Which gauge works best for me?”

Most prospective shotgun owners will narrow their choices down to two options: 12 vs 20 gauge.

The 12-gauge shotgun is the most effective one-gun solution for hunting, target shooting, and home defense. However, that doesn’t mean that the 12-gauge is the best choice for every situation.

In this article we will analyze the advantages and disadvantages of the two most popular shotgun options, 12 and 20-gauge.

What’s the Difference Between 12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge?

The difference between 12 and 20-gauge shotguns is their bore diameter. A 12 gauge has a bore diameter of 0.729” compared to 0.615” for 20 gauge. This means that a 12 gauge can fire larger payloads of buckshot at higher muzzle velocity at the cost of higher felt recoil.

12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge: Understanding Shotgun Gauges

If you’re familiar with shotguns, you’ll know that a lower gauge means a bigger caliber. However, if you’re new to shotguns or firearms in general, this can be a confusing concept to grasp.

Handgun and rifle calibers are defined by their internal bore diameter. A 40-caliber handgun has 0.40 inch diameter bore. This means the bigger the number, the bigger the bullet the gun can fire. However, shotgun gauges are determined by a more archaic system.

Gauge is determined by the number of lead balls with the same diameter as the barrel would add up to one pound.

For a 12-gauge shotgun with a bore diameter of 0.729” it would require twelve lead balls to equal one pound. Likewise, for 20 gauge guns, it requires 20 lead balls with a 0.615 inch diameter to equal one pound.

A Special Note On 20-Gauge Shells: Yellow is the New Black

If you’re new to shotguns you might not be aware that all 20-gauge shotgun shells are required to be colored yellow, regardless of payload.

This is to endure that a shooter does not mistakenly load a 20-gauge shell into a 12-gauge shotgun. If this were to happen, it’s possible that a 12-gauge shell loaded behind could cause the 20-gauge shell to fire inside the magazine causing catastrophic damage to the firearm and potentially the shooter.

For this reason, it has been mandated that all 20-guage shells are colored yellow to make them easily distinguishable from 12-guage shells.

Recoil

When it comes to felt recoil, 20-gauge shells win by a country mile. As 12 gauge shells pack a heavier payload of projectiles and powder they will always have more recoil than comparative 20 gauge ammo. This chart compares the felt recoil experienced by the shooter for three popular 12 and 20 gauge Winchester SXP hunting loads.

Less recoil gives a 20-gauge shotgun two distinct advantages.

The first advantage is the comfort factor to the shooter. Although felt recoil will be different between shooters, the low recoil impulse that the 20-gauge shells impart on its user’s shoulder often results in increased accuracy. Less recoil means that it is less likely for a shooter to develop a flinch or raise their head off the stock just prior to firing.

The second advantage is speed of follow-up shots. Regardless of whether you need to line up two quick shots on a pheasant you just kicked up or if you need to perform a mag dump in a self-defense situation, the lighter recoil of the 20 gauge makes this an easier task.

Accuracy/Pattern Density

To understand pattern density, it’s important to understand how a shotgun ammunition works.

A shotgun shell, or shotshell, is a plastic hull with a primer at the bottom. Inside the hull is a powder charge and on top of that is a plastic cup known as a “wad” to hold the projectiles known as “shot” which are essentially just round steel or lead balls.

Shot sizes will vary depending on what you’re planning on using the shotgun shell for. For self-defense you would want to use something larger like #00 buckshot (pronounced “double aught”), or if you’re hunting something smaller, like grouse or pheasant, a smaller option like #8 birdshot would be ideal.

One common misconception is that once the wad and buckshot leave the shotgun barrel, it behaves like a swarm of bees and scatters quickly. However, what happens is that the shot leaves the barrel in a column and begins to disperse.

There are numerous factors that affect how the projectiles disperse, such as minor imperfections on the surface of the shot, muzzle velocity, and stringing.

Stringing is a process where the shot at the top of the wad is deformed less during firing, while shot at the bottom of the wad endures the added pressure and weight of all the shot above it causing it to deform. This means that the buckshot at the top of the column will reach the target faster (because it’s more aerodynamic) than the shot at the bottom of the column.

The width of dispersion of shot when it reaches the target is referred to as pattern density. If the patter density is too wide, it’s possible to miss a smaller bird like a quail, at range. Conversely, if the pattern density is too tight it will be harder for shooters to score hits.

One other factor that can affect pattern density is the type of choke used in the shotgun barrel. A choke typically screws into the barrel and acts like a forcing cone, making the lead or steel shot a more compact column as they exit the barrel. Chokes will create a tighter pattern density but should not be used with slugs.

As the 12 gauge has a wider bore diameter, it can fit more shot into a wad. This means that it will have a higher pattern density than 20 gauge shot.

Stopping Power

The 12 gauge shotgun has been well known for its stopping power due to its effectiveness in trench warfare during WWI and in the jungles of the Pacific theatre during WWII. Furthermore, the 12 gauge Remington 870 pump-action shotgun is a favorite of law enforcement and can be found in squad cars across the United States.

There’s no denying that a 12 gauge load packs a huge punch, but how much? In the table below we compare three popular loads for both 12 gauge and 20-gauge shells.

Let’s compare the rifled slugs for the purpose of this explanation.

Even though both slugs exit the barrel with the same muzzle velocity of 1600 FPS, the 12 gauge load has a muzzle energy of 2488 foot-pounds while the 20 gauge load clocks in at 1865 foot-pounds (that’s a 33% difference!)

Although the disparity will vary between different loadings, 12 gauge shotgun ammunition will generally always have more stopping power than a comparative 20 gauge load.

Hunting

When it comes to getting into the woods for some hunting, you’ll find plenty of 12 and 20-gauge shotgun shooters in their tree stands or deer blinds in the fall.

Both shotgun gauges are extremely popular for hunting all types of game animals from upland bird, waterfowl, turkey, and even whitetail deer.

Proponents of the 20-gauge shotgun will cite its recoil advantage over the 12 gauge and suggest that it is more than sufficient for all sizes of game. On the other hand, 12-gauge aficionados will bring up the shotshell’s hard-hitting terminal ballistics and extended range that the 12 gauge offers.

Although 20-gauge loads can be effective for turkey hunting, waterfowl, and deer, the major issue is that you need to be at close range. As the 20 gauge shotshell has a lower muzzle velocity compared to the 12 gauge, the 20 will lose velocity faster and how a shorter effective range.

Therefore, the majority of hunters will grab their 12-gauge shotgun when they plan to hunt larger game animals like duck, goose, turkey, and deer. The extended range and stopping power more than make up for the additional felt recoil in most cases.

However, for small game or bird hunting, the 20-gauge is usually the best option. With its low recoil, it allows manufactures to produce a lighter gun that is quick and maneuverable. This makes it easier for hunters to quickly bring their gun to bear on a grouse or pheasant they kicked up. Furthermore, the lower recoil of the 20-gauge allows for extremely quick and accurate follow-up shots.

Just make sure you have adequately prepared your ammo. Don’t forget to check out our Fiocchi 20 Gauge ammo page for more options.

There’s absolutely no reason why you can’t bring your 12-gauge shotgun bird hunting as they are extremely effective. Although, if given the choice, most game hunters will opt for the lighter gun, and that’s most often a 20-gauge.

If you can only purchase one shotgun, then the 12-gauge is the best option as it does it all.

However, if you have the financial capability to purchase both, a 20-gauge shotgun is an excellent choice for small game while you can still employ your 12-gauge medium to large game hunting.

Self-Defense/Home Defense

When it comes to home defense, it’s hard to be a shotgun. Although some shooters contest that a handgun is the better choice, it simply does not compare to the sheer power that a shotgun offers.

For home defense, it is inadvisable to use rifled slugs as they will typically over penetrate and could hit an innocent bystander in the home or apartment next door. Buckshot is what you want loaded in your self-defense shotgun.

There is some scholarly debate amongst ballisticians as to which buckshot is the best option for home defense. Many swear by #00 buckshot as it is considered the gold standard for self-defense, however other state that #1 or #2 buckshot is more than sufficient for any home defense situation.

If you’re unfamiliar with buckshot designations, here is a chart explaining the difference.

As you can see, the difference between #00 buckshot vs #1 buckshot is 0.03” in projectile diameter. This debate has been beaten to death on the Internet, however the bottom line is that any would-be home invader will likely not be able to tell the difference.

But that brings us to which shotgun would be better for home defense? 12 vs 20 gauge?

Many shooters like the feel of a 12-gauge shotgun for home defense. It’s what the military and police use and for some people, that’s all they need to know. Others like the lower recoil of 20-gauge shells and feel they are more accurate with this ammo.

For close range engagements like those in a home, it won’t make much difference which shotgun you choose. Both will be more than effective in defending your life and the lives of your friends and/or family members.

Just make sure to load up with a quality buckshot (NOT birdshot or slugs) and you should be more than adequately prepared to take on any threat that enters your home and threatens your life.

Ammo and Rifle Cost/Availability

The beautiful thing about shotguns is their versatility. You have so many options, from a single shot, pump action, and even a semi-auto, the world is your oyster when it comes to shotguns.

Furthermore, entry level pump action models are typically inexpensive compared to most centerfire rifles and handguns. You can easily pick up a Remington 870 or Mossberg 500 for around $300 new in box at the time of writing.

Check out our stock of Remington 12 Gauge Ammunition for more options.

However, this does not mean that all shotguns are so affordable. If you’re looking to get into sporting clays, skeet, or trap shooting, most competition-ready shotguns will command several thousand dollars.

Although a 20-gauge shotgun typically requires less materials to produce, there is very little difference in price between 12 and 20-gauge shotguns.

As for variety, you will not lack for options for either gauge. However, there are going to be more options for the 12-gauge as it is the most popular gauge in North America due to its versatility.

The same is true for ammo cost. Although the 20-gauge shells are smaller and require less material for construction, there is very little difference in cost between 12 vs 20 gauge.

Since we are in the subject of the ammo cost, don’t forget to check out our Remington 20 Gauge Slugs page.

Just like for rifle variety, you will find more options when you are purchasing 12-gauge shells as they are the most popular. There are still plenty of options for 20-gauge ammunition, just less than 12 gauge.

Buying in bulk is always smart, make sure to check out our stock of bulk 12 gauge ammo.

Reloading

Reloading shotgun shells is something that many reloaders enjoy doing. However, as shotshells are relatively inexpensive, most reloaders do not bother reloading used hulls.

The cost savings for reloading shotgun shells is so low that only high-volume shooters ever worry about doing it, as it is usually cheaper just to buy new factory shotgun ammo. However, if you love the idea of optimizing your shotgun ammo, there’s nothing stopping you for loading your own shotshells.

Please note that shotshell reloading requires a specialized press that cannot be used for centerfire rifle and handgun reloading.

A Brief History of The Shotgun Shell

In their infancy, most firearms could fire a single projectile or multiple as they all had a smooth bore. Early firearms like those used by the settlers of the New World needed this versatility to survive by hunting small birds to deer with the same gun.

However, with the introducing of rifling during the mid-16th Century, rifles and shotguns became two separate entities with different purposes.

At this time, shotguns were mostly used for bird hunting but also saw use in law enforcement and protection details.

Did you ever “call shotgun” as a kid when getting into a car? This phrase dates back to the Wild West when the person sitting next to a stagecoach driver would carry a shotgun to protect the cargo or passengers from outlaws.

The first shotgun shell was introduced by the French gunsmith, Casimir Lefaucheux, in 1836. Most early shotgun shells were made entirely of brass as paper cartridges were unreliable and couldn’t be reloaded.

It wasn’t until 1960 when Remington introduced the plastic shotgun hull that is used today.

Final Shots: 12 Gauge vs 20 Gauge

There’s no denying that the 12 gauge is the “jack of all trades” option in the shotgun world. There plenty of target load options for sporting clays, trap, and skeet, heavy slugs for deer, and a variety of birdshot for turkey, waterfowl, and upland birds.

Not only is the 12 gauge a potent option for all forms of hunting, it is an extremely effective home defense option when loaded with quality buckshot shotshells.

However, just because the 12-gauge can do it all, that doesn’t mean that it’s always the best option.

The 20-gauge shotgun has proven itself to be a capable upland bird gun as it is fast, maneuverable, easy to carry, and packs enough punch to fell pheasants, grouse, and doves without issue. At close range, it can also be utilized for turkey, deer, and self-defense with proper loads. And it can do all of these things with approximately 33% less recoil than a 12 gauge.

Which shotgun gauge is best for you depends on your personal needs as a shooter. If you are recoil sensitive and only plan to hunt upland birds then the 20-gauge shotgun will be everything you need it to be.

The ideal choice would be to own both, however if you are on a budget then the 12-gauge shotgun is the best option as it does everything you could possibly want at a very reasonable price point.

The Genesis of the Survivor Personality

by Al Siebert, PhD

Author of The Resiliency Advantage: Master Change, Thrive Under Pressure and Bounce Back From Setbacks (2006 Independent Publisher’s Best Self-Help book), and best seller The Survivor Personality: Why Some People Are Stronger, Smarter, and More Skillful at Handling Life’s Difficulties…and How You Can Be, Too.

(A condensed version titled “The Survivor Personality” was published in the AHP Newsletter, Aug.-Sept., 1983, and used as the source of material quoted in chapter eight in Love, Medicine, & Miracles, by Bernie Siegel, M.D.)

• Abstract
• Introduction
• Four Criteria
• Method
• Biphasic Traits
• Synergy Motivation
• Need for Good Synergy
• The Competence Imparitive
• The Role of Learning
• Learning What No One Can Teach
• Conclusion and Hypothesis
• Footnotes
• References
• Permission to Reprint Information
• Bottom of Page

Abstract:

A curiosity which started in 1953 about life’s best survivors led to the identification of a small subgroup within the population who will probably be the normal or typical human of the future. Such persons can be described as having “survivor” or “synergistic personalities.”

Abraham Maslow’s later writings reflected a strong interest in synergy. He assisted Margaret Mead in publishing Ruth Benedict’s descriptions of high synergy and low synergy cultures. Maslow wrote about high synergy and low synergy organizations and their effects on self-actualization. His listing of the motivations and gratifications of self-actualizing people includes nine items indicative of needing to have things work well.

To place the need for high synergy in context it is suggested that the traditional pyramid drawing of Maslow’s hierarchy of needs be inverted and that the need for synergy be added as the next need above self-actualization.

The synergistic personality is characterized as having been able to sustain into adulthood the playful curiosity of childhood. As a consequence, the life-long activity of learning carries such persons beyond their teachers. To make important aspects of their lives function well they engage in self- motivated, self-managed learning derived directly from experience. As adults they exhibit the neurogenic motive that Robert B. White described as “effectance motivation.” Thus as the years go by they become increasingly life competent or “life smart.”

Central to the development of a synergistic personality is the integration of paradoxical personality traits. Such persons are comfortable with and value their inner counter-balanced dimensions. They appreciate the benefits derived from being able to engage in pessimistic optimism, cooperative non-conformity, selfish altruism, extroverted introversion, playful seriousness, and more.

It is hypothesized that the synergistic personality reflects the emergence of a new level of human development and brain functioning that is fundamentally different and more advanced than that of Cro-Magnon humans.

Introduction

When I enlisted in the paratroopers in 1953 the training cadre were all seasoned combat veterans. They were the few survivors from the 11th Airborne Division, a unit that had fought in the Pacific during WWII and later in Korea. Being around them I saw that it wasn’t just fate or luck that these were the few still alive. Something about them as people had made a difference.

Four Criteria

After my discharge I returned to college and majored in psychology. In graduate school I chose clinical psychology as my major field but as time went by I became dissatisfied with the emphasis on mental illness and became increasingly curious about people who are best at handling life’s toughest challenges. My main focus over the years has been to try to understand life’s best survivors. To organize my efforts I developed a list of four criteria or qualifiers. The criteria are as follows:

People with survivor personalities are those who…

1. have survived a major crisis
2. surmounted the crisis through personal effort
3. emerged from the experience with previously unknown strengths and abilities
4. in retrospect find value in the experience (A)

A good indicator that a person meets the four criteria is a statement such as, “I would never willingly go through anything like that again, but it was the best thing that ever happened to me.”

Method

Ken Keyes, Jr. once wrote: “It is impossible for you to learn what you think you already know.” Instead of studying survivors by using existing concepts of human personality, motivation, physiology and learning, I let myself learn about people as they really are. Instead of trying to make the territory fit the maps that others had constructed, I wandered as an observer with a curious and silent mind through the territory allowing it to create its own map for me.

Using the four criteria as a frame of reference, I worked backward. Over the years I asked myself such questions as:

• “Is there a basic pattern of traits that survivors share? If so, what are the traits?”
• “What about their uniqueness? How can a person be similar to others and yet be a unique individual?”
• “What are survivors like when they aren’t surviving?”
• “Is the survivor personality inborn or can it be learned? If it can be learned, what are the learning parameters?”

To find answers to my questions, I interviewed many people, read extensively and developed a questionnaire (B) for collecting information from people who identify themselves as having survivor personalities. Once the picture started to become clarified, I sought feedback from experienced survivors about the accuracy of my descriptions.

Biphasic Traits

Survivors puzzled me at first. Survivors are both serious and playful, they are hard-working and lazy, self-confident and self-critical.

The historic mode of thinking in psychology has been to conceptualize personality traits as unidimensional and as either present or absent in a person. Individuals were thought of as being one way or another, as introverted or extroverted, for example. Yet, many survivors show characteristics of both introversion and extroversion.

What is the relationship between being a survivor and being paradoxical?

An article on biphasic patterns of behavior by T.C. Schneirla led to the answer. In this article, Schneirla described his experiments in attempting to understand how living creatures survive in the world. The basic purpose of his research was to find out how “animals generally manage to reach beneficial conditions and stay away from harmful, that is, how survivors do this.” (1)

After much research, he concluded that a creature’s ability to survive is derived from being able to approach or withdraw from anything near it. To survive on this planet a creature must be able to move toward life- sustaining conditions and away from poisonous or other life-destroying conditions. The ability to approach or withdraw was described by Schneirla as being a “biphasic pattern of adjustment.”

Biphasic patterns are possible because of opposing muscular systems in our bodies. Animals have physical control over themselves because the cerebral cortex coordinates flexor and extensor muscles working against each other in controlled opposition.

Similarly, the ability of humans to consciously influence their emotional states is largely a function of the sympathetic and parasympathetic nervous systems working in counterbalanced opposition to each other.

Opposing nervous systems give creative response choices. Consciously controlled, counterbalanced systems free humans from being stimulus bound. Moshe Feldenkrais, the originator of movement techniques that lead to better physical integration, has observed that “reversibility is the mark of voluntary movement.” (2) An action that cannot be reversed is involuntary. It is reflective and not under cortical control.

Biphasic personality traits increase survivability by allowing a person to respond in one way or its opposite in any situation. To have biphasic traits is to be both one way and another rather than either one way or another. Thus, complexity and stability are derived from being tough and sensitive, proud and humble, selfish and unselfish, cooperative and rebellious, analytic and metaphoric, shy and bold, etc.

The people involved in my survivor personality research project say that being flexible and adaptable, more than anything else, is central to being a survivor. Having a variety of responses available is what makes possible the handling of chaotic, unpredictable or unexpected conditions.

Respondents also indicate, by the way, that learning about the value of biphasic or paradoxical traits is emotionally reassuring. For example, a woman who worked as a head nurse in a county hospital and was recognized for her outstanding skills wrote to me saying: “appreciate the paradoxes — it’s good to know it’s not weird-I used to puzzle myself about being conservative-liberal, generous-stingy, serious-silly, quiet-gregarious, interested-bored, involved-aloof.”

What the specific pairs of counterbalanced traits are seems to be less important than having many such pairs. The longer the list of pairs of paradoxical or biphasic personality traits (C) that are descriptive of a person, the more complex the person is and, thus, the person is usually better at successfully dealing with a variety of situations.

Evidence establishing the relationship between response choices and survival is available from many sources. Two biologists, in commenting upon successful patterns of survival in the animal and plant world, have stated: “the plants and animals that survive in their progeny are the lucky ones. They hold the winning combination: A successful pattern filling one place and time, and the ability to modify the pattern in the correct direction as fast as the environment changes. The luckiest of all have an adaptation ready, still unused, as though prepared for alteration that has not yet come. They gain a head start in the altered world. Less fortunate are those whose pattern limits them to a single situation. They vanish forever….” (3)

Synergy Motivation

Biphasic traits make flexibility possible; but being complex is not enough. Some complex people do not handle life’s problems well. If having biphasic traits provides options about ways to respond, what determines choices? What gives paradoxical people a sense of direction? How do they know what to do in unique situations? How is it that they handle emergencies so well? How do they know what not to do? How do they know what would not work? Why are they good people to have around?

These are motivation questions. They are questions about the occurrence, direction, and persistence of a behavior. Answers to these questions can be found by examining a major motive in life’s best survivors: It is the need to have things work well for themselves and others.

The need to have things work well explains much about survivors. This need is a central, organizing, motivational principle in their lives. It helps explain why, when necessary, they can successfully handle a situation that no other human being has faced before.

A diagram of the hierarchy of needs that Abraham Maslow described is usually drawn this way:

Visualizing the hierarchy as organized in the form of a pyramid is not conceptually accurate, however. (D) The more basic tissue needs are simple and satisfied quickly. Eating food or bandaging a cut takes only minutes. At each higher level the need is more complex than the one before it. Emotional and mental needs take longer to satisfy. Actualization takes many years.

In addition, the concept of self-actualization does not handle very well the need of people with survivor personalities to have things work well. Maslow recognized the existence of this motivational force in self- actualizing people, although he did not separate it out as another motive.

To make sense out of what I have observed and what Maslow actually described, therefore, I find that I have to turn his pyramid on its apex and add another motivational force beyond self-actualization. The drawing looks like this:

Maslow learned about synergy from Ruth Benedict, who introduced the concept in 1941 in some lectures she unfortunately never published. Maslow later obtained some of her lecture notes and had them published several years after her death.

Having studied many different cultures, Benedict felt the need to develop a concept which would help communicate some significant differences between cultures in regard to the quality of life for a person living in one culture or another. She stated:

I shall need a term for the gamut, a gamut that runs from one pole, where any act or skill that advantages the individual at the same time advantages the group, to the other pole, where every act that advantages the individual is at the expense of others. I shall call this gamut Synergy, the old term used in medicine and theology to mean combined action. In medicine it means the combined action of nerve centers, muscles, mental activities, remedies, which by combining produced a result greater than the sum of their separate actions.

I shall speak of cultures with low synergy, where the social structure provides for acts that are mutually opposed and counteracted and of cultures with high synergy, where it provides for acts that are mutually reinforcing. (4)

Ruth Benedict’s ideas are applicable to groups as well as cultures. High synergy exists in an organization or agency when minimum effort results in cooperative, effective action. Low synergy exists when excessive effort results in little useful action.

Trying to get something done in a low synergy organization is like driving a heavily loaded truck and trailer down the highway with all the tires flat. Working in a high synergy organization is like cruising along the highway in a well-tuned Porsche.

Maslow devoted a great deal of attention to the concept of synergy during the latter part of his career.

He recognized that some people do not merely self-actualize and then stop. Some people transcend being “merely healthy.” (5) They resolve, master and integrate conflicting forces and are motivated to create a good society for themselves and others. Maslow, in referring to the possible desirable state of affairs, coined the term “eupsychia” and defined it as “the culture that would be generated by 1,000 self-actualizing people on some sheltered island where they would not be interfered with.” (6)The central purpose of his book titled Eupsychian Management was to show organizational managers what they need to understand to create an environment conducive to optimum psychological health for workers.

The “need to have things work well” is clearly present in Maslow’s listing of the “Motivations and Gratifications of Self-Actualizing People.” (7) Nine of the 40 items in his list refer to this need:

• They seem to like happy endings, good completions.
• They try to set things right, to clean up bad situations.
• They generally pick out their own causes, which are apt to be few in number, rather than responding to advertising or to campaigns or to other people’s exhortations.
• They manage somehow simultaneously to love the world as it is and try to improve it.
• In all cases there was some hope that people and nature and society could be improved.
• A change to improve the situation where the operation is a big reward. They enjoy improving things.
• They enjoy bringing about law and order in the chaotic situation, or in the messy or confused situation, or in the dirty and unclean situation.
• They like doing things well, “doing a good job,” “to do well what needs doing.” Many such phrases add up to “bringing about good workmanship.”
• They enjoy greater efficiency, making an operation more neat, compact, simple, faster, less expensive, turning out a better product, doing with less parts, a smaller number of operations, less clumsiness, less effort, more foolproof, safer, more “elegant,” less laborious.

Thus, taking into account Maslow’s great interest in synergy, knowing of his clear awareness that people who are self-actualizing become very involved in making things work well, and taking into account that Maslow was a great teacher who encouraged people to think for themselves, I do not feel that Maslow would be greatly distressed to find that I find it practical to invert the pyramid and add synergy as a higher level need. (E)

The link between survivorship and being a competent, synergistic human is as follows: When things are working well, a person:

• can sit back and let things run themselves.
• expends much less energy than people who are struggling.
• has chunks of optional time for being curious about the early signs of new developments.
• can devote attention to the little things that count.
• can spot early indications of potential trouble and take action to prevent it.
• can work on future happenings so that when they occur things fall into place easily.
• is more relaxed, feels better and enjoys “working” as good exercise.
• can put high quality time and energy into emergency developments without having other basic matters interrupted.
• responds to an emergency or crisis with an attitudinal reflex of both expecting and needing for things to work out well.

The Need for Good Synergy

One of the most noticeable qualities of people in whom the synergy motive is strong is that they volunteer to help out when there is trouble. People with survivor personalities are foul-weather friends. When things are working well, they may drift around, apparently uninvolved; but, when there is trouble, they show up.

Their efforts to eliminate problems or reduce pain or distress in another person are partly selfish. Their sensitivity and sympathy for people who are in pain effects them. They feel it when other people are in pain.

The need for synergy is as selfish a motive as any other. The more well integrated a person’s thoughts, feelings and actions become the more the person needs a pleasantly functioning world to live in. Being exposed to discordant, unstabilizing, energy draining, disruptive people or conditions can be painful. Working to make things better is not an unselfish activity.

The selfishness in people with survivor personalities is paradoxical. When they do nice things for others, it is partly because it’s fun to have other people enjoy themselves and partly because it feels good. They have resolved what Maslow calls the selfish-unselfish dichotomy. They have achieved a state of selfish altruism. They can act unselfishly for selfish reasons. In commenting about fusing the selfish-unselfish dichotomy, Maslow states:

Here I would like to take a jump beyond Benedict….In highly developed, psychiatrically healthy people, self-actualizing people, whichever you choose to call them, you will find, if you try to rate them, that they are extraordinarily unselfish in some ways, and yet also they are extraordinarily selfish in other ways…

Somehow the polarity, the dichotomy, the assumption that more of one means less of the other, all this fades. They melt into each other and you now have a single concept for which we have no word yet. High synergy from this point of view can represent a transcending of the dichotomizing, a fusion of the opposites into a single concept. (8)

Since all psychological activities have physiological correlates, such a “fusion” of opposites must reflect the establishment of integrated neurological connections between the various brain centers and neurological systems. If this is indeed the case, then questions about the synergy motive, the need to have things work well, must include attention to neurological variables.

The Competence Imperative

The really competent, synergistic people in every sphere of human activity are those individuals who have gone beyond their teachers. They have learned what no one can teach them. Competence results from self- motivated, self-managed learning. People who follow instructions on how to function successfully are never as skillful as people who are self- motivated learners. Every teacher knows that the students who gain the most from a course are the ones who are self-motivated. Students who passively cooperate in doing as instructed may pass the tests, but they lack the self motivation that leads to mastery.

The motivational forces underlying the learning (F) that results in competence / mastery / effectiveness / skillfulness in making things work well in a variety of conditions cannot be accounted for by external forces such as reinforcers, punishers, social pressures or anticipated rewards. Neither can the self-motivated learning be accounted for by internal tensions or deficits. The self-motivated learning so strongly present in adults who function in synergistic ways is that same as that of small children. The motivational force is neurogenic and has been described by Robert W. White as “effectance motivation.” (9) White, in his classic paper “Motivation Reconsidered: The Concept of Competence,” summarized decades of motivation research by saying:

Later in his paper he stated:

In support of his position, White observed that a healthy, adequately fed child or animal “is by no means at the mercy of transient stimulus fields. He selects for continuous treatment those aspects of his environment which he finds it possible to affect in some way.” (12) What is called child’s play “involves discovering the effects he can have on the environment and the effect the environment will have on him. To the extent that these results are preserved by learning, they build up an increased competence in dealing with the environment.” (13) White defined competence as “an organism’s capacity to interact effectively with its environment.” (14) He says that, “In higher animals and especially in man, where so little is innately provided and so much has to be learned about dealing with the environment, effectance motivation independent of primary drives can be seen as having high adaptive value.” (15) White conceived of effectance motivation as characterized by satisfactions derived from explanatory, varying, experimental behaviors and conceptualized the activities which lead to competence as linked to feelings of efficacy. (16)

The synergy motive can be understood as having two motivational dimensions. First, a discordant, energy-draining situation may upset, irritate, or bother the person and may stimulate activities to improve things; and, second, there is the feeling of enjoyment and satisfaction from being able to take actions which results in things working well.

The Role of Learning

Linking the motivation for competence to internal, neurogenic processes helps explain how and why people who learn directly from life’s experiences are synergistic and handle life’s difficulties better than people who try to function as directed by others. It is not that people with survivor personalities have learned how to learn; instead, it is more accurate to say that they have managed to maintain the way of learning that enhances ongoing neurological development and leads to ever increasing personal abilities.

My own rough model of the circumstances in which people learn is this:

Ways in which humans learn:

• trained or conditioned to act, think, feel, speak as told.
• in structured experiences designed to teach predetermined thoughts, feelings and actions.
• working as an apprentice with a skilled person who helps “educe” useful learning.
• assisted in learning how to successfully deal with unique and unexpected challenges by a mentor.
• unsocialized, self-motivated, self-managed learning directly from experience.

Some people make it through the training, educational and other experiences forced on them by others with the motivation and ability to learn directly from experiences still strong. In some cases, the competency flourishes in spite of the efforts of parents, trainers and educators; in other cases, the competency flourishes because the parents, teachers and educators did not interfere with the self-motivated learning.

Many people do not make it through the training, educational and other experiences forced on them by others with much self-motivation left. Some are victims of severe, although usually well-intentioned, mental and emotional abuse, others seem addicted to “educements.”

Learning What No One Can Teach

The benefits derived from years of self-motivated, self-managed learning include becoming increasingly competent in dealing effectively with real life events and acquiring skills to learn what no one can teach. Everyone encounters difficulties they were not prepared for. Those happen at work, in marriages, with life changes and changes in the external world. Survival responses and synergistic actions both usually depend on the person being able to assess a situation quickly and invent a workable plan of action without asking for approval or waiting for help. The pattern of activities associated with the development of synergistic skills and a survivor personality include the following: As adults, such persons:

• play in the way that happy children do.
• may play aimlessly with no purpose other than for the enjoyment of the activity.
• can become deeply absorbed in an activity, losing all contact with time and external events. While so absorbed, they may talk with themselves, hum or whistle absent-mindedly.
• have the curiosity of a long-time child who asks: “How does this work?” “What if I did such and such?” “What would happen if I acted in another way?”
• allow their feelings to guide their curiosity.
• have an observing, nonjudgmental perceptual style.
• are willing to be foolish, make mistakes, get hurt and laugh at themselves.
• may test the limits, break rules or disobey laws to find out what happens.
• appreciate unpleasant information about themselves.
• carry on conversations with themselves, day dream and have active imaginations. They play in and with their minds.

Indicators that developmental processes are enhanced by these spontaneous, self-motivated activities include observations that such people:

• have empathy for individuals and groups, particularly for opponents / enemies / adversaries.
• have empathy for clusters or systems of relationships such as organizations or equipment.
• use subliminal perception as a valid, useful source of information.
• have good timing, especially when speaking or taking an original action.
• recognize early clues about possible developments and take meaningful action.
• rapidly assimilate new or unexpected experiences and facilitate being changed by them.
• get smarter and enjoy life more as they get older.
• are comfortable in and even amused by ambiguous situations that may frighten or bewilder others.
• exercise conscious choices over biphasic response alternatives.
• maintain a positive direction and show surprising self-confidence against sustained adverse circumstances.
• fall back to and successfully rely on inner resources in disruptive, chaotic circumstances.
• can be a cooperative nonconformist, i.e. not being controlled by social mores, laws or standards, and yet choose to abide by the laws and rules.
• have a talent for serendipity; able to convert accidents or what others would regard as misfortune into good luck.

Such indicators allow us to infer that self-motivated, self-managed learning can lead to advanced levels of neurological development. With some people, however, learning may only play a minor role in the development of the survivor personality.

A few people are born survivors. They are the natural athletes in the game of life. Just as some people are born musicians, writers, artists or singers, some people are gifted at coping well. This ability is so strongly inborn in a few children that even the most adverse home conditions and neighborhoods cannot break them. Julius Segal refers to such children as “invulnerables” and describes them as “an enigma.” They are “children who should be psychological casualties but aren’t.” (17)

E. James Anthony says about invulnerable children: “They deal with life with an excellence and adaptive capacity that doesn’t seem to come from anywhere, as if they had carved these qualities by themselves.” (18)

Nature provides a few people with such a strong inborn capacity for survival that even as children they apparently need minimum help or support from their world. The majority of others follow along lines that would be predicted by the normal distribution curve of human abilities. For most others, the potential for developing a survivor personality is present or absent to a greater or lesser extent. For them, it takes more time and more experience. Thus, for the majority of people, life’s circumstances (nurture) can enhance or diminish the probabilities that they will learn how to take control of their ongoing development.

The extent to which a person can function in ways aligned with deeper, neurological, organic processes is revealed in extreme circumstances. Terrance Des Pres, in summarizing his research into the survivors of the Nazi Death Camps, concluded when people are stripped of all their usual supports and even their health, “when the external props collapse, survivors fall back on life itself.” (19)

It may be that a significant, although subtle, force operating within human behavior and human functions is a species motive rather than an individual one. In the 1840s, Arthur Schopenhauer stated:

The inmost nature of every brute, and also of man, accordingly lies in the species; thus the will to live which is so powerfully active is rooted in this, not really in the individual. (20)

Ex-POWs have told me that, during some of the worst times in captivity, “dying is as easy as letting go a rope.” They would even joke about deciding to stay alive by saying: “We must be crazy to stay alive. Any horse treated like this would have died long ago.”

Conclusion and Hypothesis

Highly stressful situations, ambiguity, unwanted changes, and torturous conditions reveal that some individuals have more capacity to survive and make things turn out well than others. From studying people who successfully survive

and gain strength from extreme circumstances, I hypothesize that:

1. the survivor personality cannot be taught but it can be learned.
2. those motives, activities and experiences enhancing the emergency of survival abilities are the same as those which enhance the emergence of synergistic abilities.
3. neurological maturation can continue in humans throughout their lives.
4. for those persons who discover and facilitate the life and growth forces within them, life gets better and better decade after decade.

The methodological problems in testing the hypotheses are considerable. Since an ideal anything can only exist in the abstract, how can individuals with unique abilities be compared-especially when taking into account that one person’s way of solving and surviving real life problems may be quite different from another? To make such comparisons would be more like trying to judge an art competition than doing scientific research.

How can the ability to survive extreme conditions be tested? Humans cannot, for research purposes, be thrown into major, life disrupting conditions.

Even if methods such as those were used by research teams during natural disasters could be used to verify the observed correlations, what could be done to determine whether or not neurological development has occurred and is a significant variable? Can psychologists develop assessment devices that measure advanced levels of neurological functioning in the same way they assess neurological impairment?

Despite the methodological research problems, my observations of life’s best survivors leads me to conclude that the human species is in a transformation to its next level of development. A more developmentally advanced human being is emerging who will compare to the Cro-Magnon way of thinking and living at about the same level of comparison that Cro- Magnon compared to Neanderthal.

Comments and reactions are invited.

Footnotes:

(A) The “survivor personality” is, thus, an operational definition. It is a description of an abstracted system as distinguished from the hypothetical construct “mental health.” Such persons could just as well be described as having “synergistic” or “serendipity” personalities because these are also core attributes of exceptional mental health.

(B) What follows, then, is a preliminary report in which those variables and principles observed to be most central to the survivor personality are described. Research issues are discussed at the conclusion of the paper.

(C) The term “androgynous” is being specifically avoided here for the following reason. I have been using the terms “biphasic,” “paradoxical” and “counterbalanced” in reference to personality traits since the early 1960s and prefer them because they are gender neutral. “Androgynous” is a sexist concept implying that a complete person is a mixture of both male and female traits. I view people with survivor personalities as humans whose traits make them good survivors and that their sexual identities are relatively superficial when compared to more fundamental personality dimensions. Besides, the terms counterbalanced and paradoxical teach better. Try telling a room full of city maintenance department employees that they may be able to handle life’s challenges better by becoming androgynous.

(D) See the diagram in The Third Force by Frank Goble, on page 50, and notice how difficult it was to include the self-actualization growth needs in the space at the top of the pyramid.

(E) Another human need which Maslow hierarchy does not cover well is sexual activity, so even my revised version of his model may be considered to have limitations.

(F) Learning being defined as “a change in behavior that results from experience.”

References

(1) T.C. Schneirla, “An Evolutionary and Developmental Theory of Biphasic Process Underlying Approach and Withdrawal.” Nebraska Symposium on Motivation, Vol. 7, Marshall R. Jones, ed. (1959). Reprinted in Selected Writings of T. C. Schneirla (W.H. Freeman, 1972).

(2) Moshe Feldenkrais, Awareness through Movement (Harper & Row, 1972), p. 85.

(3) Lorus J. Milne and Margery Milne, Patterns of Survival (Prentice-Hall, 1967), p. 4.

(4) Abraham Maslow and John J. Honigmann, eds., “Synergy: Some Notes of Ruth Benedict, American Anthropologist, Vol. 72, (1970), pp. 320-333.

(5) Abraham Maslow, The Farther Reaches of Human Nature, pp. 282-292.

(6) Abraham Maslow, Eupsychian Management, (Dorsey Press, 1965), p. xi.

(7) Abraham H. Maslow, The Farther Reaches of Human Nature, (Viking Press, 1971), pp. 308-309.

(8) Ibid, pp. 43 and 210.

(9) Robert W. White, “Motivation Reconsidered: The Concept of Competence, ” Psychological Review, Vol. 66, Sept. 1959, p. 329.

(10) Ibid, p. 305.

(11) Ibid, p. 32.

(12) Ibid, p. 320.

(13) Ibid, p. 321.

(14) Ibid, p. 297.

(15) Ibid, p. 329.

(16) Ibid, p. 329.

(17) Julius Segal, A Child’s Journey, Chapter 12 “Children Who Will Not Break” (McGraw-Hill, 1978), p. 282.

(18) E. James Anthony and Bertram J. Cohler, The Invulnerable Child (Guilford Press, 1987).

(19) Terrance Des Pres, The Survivor: Anatomy of Life in Death Camps (Oxford University Press, 1976).

(20) The Will to Live: Selected Writing of Arthur Schopenhauer, Richard Taylor, ed. (Doubleday & Company, 1962), p. 140.

The Resiliency Center was founded by the late Al Siebert, PhD who studied highly resilient survivors for over fifty years. He authored the award-winning book The Resiliency Advantage: Master Change, Thrive Under Pressure and Bounce Back From Setbacks (2006 Independent Publisher’s Best Self-Help book), and best seller The Survivor Personality: Why Some People Are Stronger, Smarter, and More Skillful at Handling Life’s Difficulties…and How You Can Be, Too.

Levi Morgan won his first professional archery tournament in 2007, when he also went on to win the Archery Shooters Association Shooter of the Year and World Champion titles that year. Since then, he has won the Shooter of the Year title 11 years in a row. Levi is the host of Bow Life, airing on Sportsman Channel.

The following topics are from the column, “Changing the Game” in Petersen’s Bowhunting.

by Levi Morgan

In the following article, I will address:

• How to Overcome Target Panic: The Aiming Drill
• Achieving Perfect Bow Balance
• How to Grip a Bow
• Shooting a Bow: Pushing and Pulling
• Anchoring a Bow: Three Steps to Success
• Write It Down
• Serving a Bow String
• How to Stand When Shooting a Bow
• Paper Tuning a Bow
• Preparing Your Mind for Success: Mastering the Mental Game of Archery

How to Overcome Target Panic: The Aiming Drill

If you’ve shot a bow long enough, you’ve probably heard about – or experienced for yourself – the demon we call “target panic.” The main form of target panic is best described as the inability to hold your pin on the target and squeeze the release slowly enough to cause surprise when it fires. Essentially, you punch the release prematurely. While there are many forms of target panic and just as many ways to cure it, there are a few things you can do to prevent or beat this horrible condition. Surprisingly, the one solution I’m most fond of doesn’t even require you to fire an arrow.

The main form of target panic derives from what I call “anxious aiming.” This occurs when the pin settles in where you want it to and you feel like you have to fire that release immediately. The problem with firing a release on command (the way 90 percent of people trigger their release) is that from the time your mind tells you to fire that shot to the act of your finger actually doing it is enough time to move off the spot. Generally, this is the main cause of inconsistent groups. You may say you don’t have target panic, but if you can’t aim in the middle and slowly fire that shot, then I’ve got some bad news: you have target panic. Luckily there is a cure for this.

You are probably wondering how I can suggest solving this problem without even shooting an arrow, but the fact is, the problem lies between your ears, not in the act of shooting. What you need to do is commit two weeks to the cure; every day or every chance you get, go out in the yard with an arrow nocked, just like you would normally practice. You will simply draw the bow and address the target, aiming with your finger on the trigger – but don’t pull that release; you want to focus only on aiming. Keep that pin where you want to the arrow to hit until your aiming starts to break down. Then let down and reset, never firing the arrow. Treat this just as you would any practice session, except never actually shoot your bow.

This will do two things that benefit you greatly as an archer. First, it will teach your mind that it is OK for that pin to settle on the bulls-eye without firing that arrow. Second, it will increase the length of time during which you can effectively aim before your shot breaks down. Over time, you will be able to add shooting back into your routine, but if you ever feel those anxious or rushed feelings, take a few days and just commit to this simple drill.

Target panic is a horrible thing, and if you don’t know how to cure it, it can really mess with your confidence, taking the fun out of shooting your bow. Even if you aren’t struggling with target panic, this aiming drill can and will make you a better archer, regardless of whether you are a novice or a top-level competitor.

Achieving Perfect Bow Balance

Maybe you are new to archery and trying to learn everything you can. Maybe, however, you have been a successful archer for years and are simply reading this because you are addicted and can’t get enough. Either way, we all want to be better shots, and if you say you don’t, I’d say you’re not a passionate archer/hunter.

There are many things that make up a great archer, but no one thing is more important than having a perfectly balanced bow. The overall goal of finding perfect balance is to be able to draw the bow with your eyes closed, settle in and open your eyes to a perfectly level bubble. This takes away human influence or torque that is necessary to level your bow otherwise. Proper balance will better your aim in all areas. Better aiming then leads to improvements in every aspect of your shot and can even cure most forms of target panic.

To achieve perfect balance, you will need a front stabilizer bar (I’d recommend at least 10 inches), a V-bar bracket that will allow you to adjust side to side and up and down, and a rear stabilizer bar that’s at least 8 inches. In addition, you will want a few weights to play around with.

First, you will need to put the stabilizers on and level the bow from side to side. I would recommend trying 4-5 ounces of weight on the front bar and 10-15 ounces on the back bar. You can fine-tune the weights from here, but this is a good ratio to start with.

Next, draw the bow with your eyes closed, anchor with a relaxed grip and open your eyes. If the bubble on your sight is not level, then adjust the rear stabilizer accordingly until you can repeat this process and your bow is perfectly level from side to side.

Leveling your bow front to back is a little different because you will adjust by adding or removing weights rather than adjusting the bars from side to side. To level your bow front to back, come to full draw aiming at a horizontal line. If your pin wants to dip or bounce below the line then add weight to the back bar or take the weight off the front. If your pin bounces above the line, do the opposite. After this step is complete, your bow should be very close to balanced. While you probably won’t be aiming perfectly still, your aiming pattern should be centered on that horizontal line, not bobbing up or down.

Obviously, we all want to be the best archer we can be. Balancing your bow properly will help you tremendously. Some people say balancing your bow makes it too heavy, but I’d rather carry a few more ounces and hit where I aim.

How to Grip a Bow

The grip is the only part of your bow you actually touch during the shot process, meaning the way you handle it is critical. Despite that, I believe grip remains one of the most overlooked aspects of good shooting form.

Over the years, I’ve seen many variations of how people grip their bows, and guess what? None of them are necessarily wrong. Just like any other aspect of archery, the proper grip is simply one that can be repeated consistently shot after shot. However, there are several things that can make that task much easier. One is to keep the entire grip on the thumb side of your lifeline. Then you want to point your thumb at about 2 o’clock (10 o’clock for left-handed shooters), making sure it isn’t riding up against the shelf of the riser. Lastly, you want to have a loose hand, not squeezing the grip and not with your fingers stuck straight out; just let your hand relax.

There are two main muscles in your hand, one on each side of your lifeline. If your grip crosses over onto both, then it’s a lot easier for you to torque the bow just by tensing your hand slightly. It’s very important to keep the bow on the thumb side of that lifeline only, making it almost impossible to torque with the muscles in your palm.

The best way to do this is to make a thumbs up sign, turn your thumb to 2 o’clock (or 10 o’clock for lefties), open your hand and place it on the grip. This will help prevent your thumb from pressing too hard against the shelf, which can create sideways torque and cause inconsistencies in your balance while aiming.

Now, your bow isn’t going anywhere. So, stop holding onto it for dear life at full draw. Just relax your bow hand. Now, squeeze the grip again and see what it does to the bow and level. That’s called torque, and it’s bad. You want a completely relaxed hand. Just allow your fingers to lie softly on the back of the grip. Don’t stick your fingers way out trying to avoid torque, because when you do that you can’t help but tense up those muscles, which defeats the entire purpose. It’s OK if your fingers are touching the riser, as long as they aren’t influencing it.

Again, there is no right or wrong way to grip the bow if you can do it the same every time, and the method I just described will help you achieve consistency. Keep the grip on one side of the lifeline in your hand, keep your thumb from pressing too hard up into the shelf and relax your entire hand. A consistent grip is absolutely crucial to accurate shooting.

Shooting a Bow: Pushing and Pulling

We all realize that to shoot a bow, some form of pushing and pulling has to take place – but probably not as much as you’ve been told. My entire life, I was preached to on how I needed to push my bow arm at the target and pull on my release arm firing the shot using my back muscles. I quickly realized that doing that the same way each time was next to impossible. Archery, as I’ve always said, is a game of repetition, and trying to rip the bow in half just wasn’t something I could repeat. One day I’d do great, the next I’d be pulling harder and hit to the right or pushing shots out to the left. The inconsistency was really frustrating.

Now, many of my struggles were from the equipment I was using combined with this push/pull method. But mainly, it was

because this entire method is flawed, in my opinion. Back when this “back tension” method was introduced, bows had hardly any let-off and spongy back walls. Pushing and pulling really hard probably was the most consistent way to shoot that setup. These days, however, bows are built with solid back walls and high let-off, and when you start pushing and pulling on something that doesn’t give, it just doesn’t work. Think about it; you’re shooting a bow with a solid wall, and when you pull, something has to give. In this case, that would be your bow arm. And when you push and the bow can’t give, then the movement is transferred to your release arm. I truly believe this is the reason so many people struggle with this technique. It’s not that they’re doing it wrong. It’s that the entire process is no longer necessary.

I understand that to keep the bow at full draw, some form of “back tension,” or pushing and pulling, has to take place. I also believe that’s about all you need, just enough to keep the bow at full draw. You have to look at your cam system, holding weight, bow weight and type of draw stop to come up with a consistent push/pull method that suits you. However, if you’re shooting a bow made in the last decade, more pushing and pulling probably isn’t the answer to making you a better shot.

If you are struggling with aiming or consistent groups and you have been taught to push and pull on the bow, let’s try a different approach. Try to relax a little more in your shot. Pull just hard enough to keep the string against the stop and let the bow do the rest. After a while, you should find a really comfortable, less stressful way to fire the shot. This will be way more repeatable for you, and you will be engaging fewer muscles than before. Yes, the fewer muscles during the shot the better. When you’re nervous, that’s what causes tension and shaking, and that’s what gets us tired. So, the fewer muscles used the better. The days of ripping the bow apart are over. It’s time to relax and let these bows shoot themselves.

Anchoring a Bow: Three Steps to Success

If you know archery, you know how important a consistent anchor is. Most people just think of anchor as a being only one thing. But the truth is, having a repeatable anchor position involves three major components. Everyone’s anchor involves – or at least should involve – the following: release-to-hand contact, hand-to-face contact, and string-to-face contact. If you have these three components down, you will have a solid anchor position.

Release-to-hand contact is very crucial in all parts of your shot, but none more so than your anchor. If you are shooting a handheld release, that importance doubles. You can literally change your draw length and entire form just by positioning the release differently in your hand from one shot to the next. It is critically important to find a comfortable spot in your hand where the release just seems to fit. It’s not a bad idea to even mark that on your hand with a marker or tape while you practice. Make a conscious effort each shot to place that release in your hand exactly the same. Soon, that will be the only place you can comfortably place the release, and any slight change will be noticed immediately. At this point, the marking and/or tape is no longer needed.

A consistent hand-to-face contact point can be a little trickier. I’ve seen guys and girls mash their hands into their faces, and I’ve seen them completely avoid any contact with their face at all (both are disasters). You want to find a comfortable pressure point somewhere along your jawbone. I like to slide my jawbone between my first knuckle and middle knuckle. I don’t mash my hand to my face. I just very lightly touch my hand to that spot on my jaw so I can execute my release properly. I’ve found that the more pressure I put on my face, the harder it is to execute the shot. On the other hand, no contact or a floating anchor even worse, in my opinion. How can you ever know when you are anchored if you can’t feel any contact with your hand?

The final piece of the anchor is the contact between your face and the string. While you need this contact, you absolutely can’t press on the string with your face, as this will cause nightmares with shooting consistency. The absolute best and most repeatable string-to-face contact point I’ve found is to very lightly touch the string to the tip of your nose. If you use your cheek or the side of your nose, it’s hard to put the string in the exact same spot every time. The tip of your nose is always in the same place.

Just like every other aspect of archery, there is no right or wrong anchor – if you can repeat it from shot to shot. Having the correct draw length is very crucial in comfortably anchoring with the method I’ve just described. Assuming your equipment fits you perfectly, this three-part anchor method is, in my opinion, the best way to go about fine-tuning your archery game. Always remember your release-to-hand, hand-to-face, and string-to-face contact points. Stay consistent with all three and your anchor position will never fail.

Write It Down

Everyone has had that one setup that was money – that one bow they always shot better than any other. The problem is once you replace the strings, cables or limbs, it’s never the same. You can go to the same model, poundage and draw length, but it still doesn’t feel right. If only you had taken notes on everything. There are some key things you always should write down once you have that dream setup you are in love with. First, write down all the measurements on the bow. Then take notes on how your arrows are built. Lastly, take notes on other things in your shot more along the lines of feel and execution.

When we have the best set up of our lives, we need to realize that bows change with use, and before it’s too late, we need to write down everything about the setup. Some of these things are draw length measured from the throat of the grip, d-loop length, peep height from the loop, nock height from axles, draw weight, holding weight, axle to axle, brace height and let-off. Then, move on to things like stabilizer lengths and weights, sight choice, fiber size, lens magnification, peep aperture size, rest location from burger hole and, if you shoot a blade rest, what size launcher. Nothing is too small or unimportant to write down about this setup.

Next up are your arrows. Nothing is more critical to a forgiving and accurate setup than your arrows. You need to log all of this info as well. How long are your arrows carbon to carbon? What model arrow are you shooting, including spine? Vane selection and the helical or offset on those vanes are very important. Write down what nock, what grain point and then overall arrow weight. Arrows come in so many sizes and spines these days that if you can’t remember what arrow you had, all the other info isn’t nearly as important.

Lastly, you need to log every part of how you are executing your shot. Are you relaxed at full draw or are you pulling hard on the wall? What is your bow arm positioning? Straight arm or slightly bent? Same goes for release arm and even how you hold your release. Write down how you are anchoring in and what release you’re shooting. Bow grip is another crucial piece, but it’s very hard to write down specific details about

“The Very Best Value in a 22LR Bolt Action Rifle”

The CZ-455 American 22LR is 99% of everything I want in a 22LR rifle. My most important requirements are accuracy and great looks, and the CZ-455 delivers both.

This rifle features a nicely finished walnut stock with cut checkering and beautiful matt blue solid steel action and hammer-forged barrel. For about $400 street price, this rifle gives you the accuracy associated with names like Anschutz or Cooper, or high dollar custom Ruger 1022’s. Even the standard model like the American in 22LR will produce 1 MOA or better groups with off the shelf ammo like CCI standard velocity. If you are looking for a very accurate rifle at a very reasonable price, the CZ-455 is for you.

The CZ-455 replaced the 452 series (although special 452’s are still listed on their website), and features interchangeable barrels between 22LR, 22Mag and 17 HMR. You can even get the 455 with both 22LR and 17 HMR in a combo rifle set. Just remove the stock, loosen two set screws that retain the barrel and exchange the barrel. The barrels are pre-fit with proper headspace to make the change easy, and the combo rifle comes with one 5-round magazine in each caliber. Of course, you will have to re-zero the scope because of the big differences in ballistics of the 22LR and more powerful 17 HMR or 22Mag.

The 455 models feature an integral 11mm dovetail for mounting scopes, so some rimfire rings will not work. I like BLK rimfire scope rings best for rimfire rifles with dovetail available from AMAZON . These rings will work on 3/8” or 11mm base and are perfectly machined to align with your barrel.

The Classic style stock is Turkish walnut and my rifle has a nice finish and attractive straight grain. You can get many variations of the 455 including, varmint, trainer, suppressor-ready, stainless steel, and more. If you hurry, there is still a limited quantity of 452 Grand Finale’s available. The CZ-452 Grand Finale is built using the last 452 actions ever produced, embellished with hand-engraved scroll work on the action, barrel, bottom metal and included 1” scope rings. The upgraded American walnut is trimmed with an ebony forend and grip cap, the bolt is jeweled and it has a deep glossy blue finish to the metal. This model is about $1150, over twice the price of a standard CZ-455.

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Vortex Diamondback 3×12 HP Scope

Vortex Diamondback 3×12 HP Scope ON SALE At AMAZON

I mounted a Vortex Diamondback 3x12x42 HP Scope on the CZ-455 and it has turned out to be an excellent scope for the rifle. The Diamondback HP series has the Vortex extra-low dispersion (XD) glass to increase resolution and color fidelity, and fully Multi-Coated lenses with XR proprietary coatings on all air-to-glass surfaces.

The Diamondback HP offers extremely clear, extra-low dispersion glass with XR multi-coated lenses to allow hunters to squeeze out every bit of shooting light from the day to bag their trophy. The side parallax adjustment, this rifle scope keeps a trim profile and gives you all of the features you need to be successful.

The side focus lets you shoot parallax-free down to 30 yards so it is a great scope for at 22LR or more powerful caliber. The finger adjustable turret knobs are great for making quick changes when target shooting and the Vortex Deadhold BDC (bullet drop compensation) reticle makes it easy to shoot accurately in the field. This Vortex Diamondback HP series is also available in 2×8 or 4×16 power, depending on your needs. The scope worked so well on my CZ-455, I bought more for my other 22LR and centerfire rifles. The street price is about $300.

Shooting The CZ-455 22LR

The CZ-455 is a pleasure to shoot. It just has that perfect feel of a classic hunting rifle. Everything feels right and operates smoothly. The rifle functions perfectly, the mags load easily and feed flawlessly, the trigger has no creep and breaks very well. The trigger was a little heavy, so I replaced the trigger spring with the ACE #144 spring to bring it down to 1.5lbs. There are other trigger kits like the YODAVE that has 3 springs and pin shims to give you a choice of trigger pull options for about $18. YODAVE also has bore guides, scope levels, and other handy items for the CZ-455 shooter.

I went by the range between showers today to shoot a few groups with CZ-455 and managed to shoot 3 groups worth posting. The targets below were shot at 100 yards with a 10 MPH headwind, so in good conditions and the right shooter, it should really shine. The three groups averaged just under 1 MOA. That’s really good with me behind the wheel. Ammo was my favorite, SK Match Rifle. Guess it is time to cut the cards at 100 yds again.

Leupold Mark AR 6-18×40 Scope

A Leupold Mark AR 6-18×40 Scope arrived today, so I decided to mount it on the CZ-455 and see if I can improve the 100-yard groups. It has a fine duplex reticle an a few more power to work with so I hope to shoot better at the 100-200 yard range.

WOW! Going from a 12x to 18x scope makes so much difference at 100 yards and beyond when shooting a 22LR. Zero at 50, 15 clicks up on the P5 dial, one full turn for 200 yards with Aguila HV Super Extra. First impressions of the scope are very good. You can aim at a 22 caliber bullet hole at 100 yards and the CDS type elevation dial tracked perfectly moving back and forth between yardages.

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Scopes For 22LR Rimfire Rifles

The primary difference between a rimfire scope and a high-power rifle scope lies in their intended applications and the specific features designed to accommodate those applications. Rimfire scopes are without a paralax adjustment have are paralax free (in focus) at around 50 yards. High-power rifle scopes are paralax free at about 150 yards.

If you want a scope for your rimfire rifle, make sure to get a rimfire scope or a high-power rifle scope with a paralax adjustment or your image in the scope will be out of focus at short range, ie 25-75 yards.

Let’s explore the key distinctions:

Caliber Compatibility:

Rimfire Scope: Rimfire scopes are specifically designed for use with rimfire cartridges, such as .22 LR. These scopes are optimized to withstand the lower recoil and unique ballistics of rimfire ammunition.

High-Power Rifle Scope: High-power rifle scopes are designed to handle the recoil and performance of larger, high-powered centerfire cartridges, such as .308 Win or .30-06 Springfield.

Magnification Range:

Rimfire Scope: Rimfire scopes generally have lower magnification ranges, typically a 4X or variable ranging from 3x to 9x. This is because rimfire cartridges are typically used for shorter-range shooting.

High-Power Rifle Scope: High-power rifle scopes offer a wider range of magnification options, often starting around 3x or 4x and reaching higher levels, such as 12x, 16x, or even 24x. These scopes are intended for longer-range shooting where precision and target identification are crucial.

Parallax Adjustment:

Rimfire Scope: Rimfire scopes may or may not have parallax adjustment features since rimfire cartridges are typically used at shorter distances where parallax is less of a concern.

High-Power Rifle Scope: High-power rifle scopes often feature parallax adjustment knobs or side focus controls to help eliminate parallax error, especially when shooting at longer distances. Do not choose a high-power rifle scope for your rimfire without a paralax adjustment.

Turret Adjustments:

Rimfire Scope: Rimfire scopes usually have capped turrets or turrets with low-profile adjustments, as they are designed for shorter-range shooting where frequent adjustments are less common.

High-Power Rifle Scope: High-power rifle scopes often have exposed or tactical-style turrets that allow for quick and easy adjustments, facilitating precise shots at varying distances.

Reticle Options:

Rimfire Scope: Rimfire scopes typically feature simple reticles, such as duplex or basic crosshairs, suitable for shorter-range shooting and general target acquisition.

High-Power Rifle Scope: High-power rifle scopes often offer a wider selection of reticle options, including bullet drop compensating (BDC) reticles, mil-dot reticles, or even illuminated reticles, providing additional features for long-range shooting and holdover estimation.

It’s important to note that these differences are not absolute, and there can be variations within each category. Ultimately, the choice between a rimfire scope and a high-power rifle scope depends on your specific shooting needs, preferred shooting distances, and the caliber of your firearm.

Why The 22LR May Be Most Popular Cartridge In The World

The .22LR (Long Rifle) cartridge is often considered one of the most popular cartridges in the world for several reasons:

Versatility: The .22LR cartridge is highly versatile and can be used for various purposes. It is commonly used for plinking, target shooting, small game hunting, pest control, and even in some competitions. Its versatility makes it appealing to a wide range of shooters, from beginners to experienced enthusiasts.

Availability and Affordability: The .22LR cartridge is widely available in most regions of the world. Its popularity has led to widespread production and distribution by numerous ammunition manufacturers. Due to its popularity and high demand, it is generally more affordable compared to other centerfire cartridges, making it an accessible option for many shooters.

Low Recoil and Noise: The .22LR cartridge generates minimal recoil, which makes it comfortable to shoot, especially for beginners and those who prefer a milder shooting experience. Additionally, it produces relatively low noise compared to larger calibers, making it suitable for shooting in areas with noise restrictions or populated areas.

Firearm Options: The .22LR cartridge is compatible with a wide range of firearms, including handguns, rifles, and even some semi-automatic and bolt-action rifles specifically designed for this cartridge. The availability of different firearm options, ranging from small compact pistols to full-sized rifles, contributes to the cartridge’s popularity.

Skill Development and Training: The .22LR cartridge is an excellent tool for developing shooting skills and practicing marksmanship. Its low recoil, affordability, and reduced noise make it ideal for beginners to learn and improve their shooting techniques. Additionally, the low cost of ammunition allows for extended practice sessions without breaking the bank.

Recreational Shooting: Plinking, informal target shooting, and recreational shooting are popular activities among firearms enthusiasts. The .22LR cartridge’s affordability and versatility make it a preferred choice for these types of activities, as shooters can enjoy extended shooting sessions without spending a significant amount on ammunition.

It’s important to note that while the .22LR cartridge is popular for the reasons mentioned above, its effectiveness for certain purposes, such as self-defense or long-range shooting, may be limited. Shooters should always choose a cartridge appropriate for their specific needs and requirements.

History of CZ Firearms

CZ firearms, also known as Česká zbrojovka, have a rich and storied history. Here is an overview of the history of CZ firearms:

1. Origins and Early Years (1919-1945): Česká zbrojovka was founded in 1919 in Czechoslovakia, shortly after the end of World War I. The company initially produced military and civilian firearms. One of their notable early designs was the CZ Model 27 pistol, which became the standard sidearm for the Czechoslovak Armed Forces.
2. Post-War Developments (1945-1989): After World War II, CZ firearms continued to evolve and expand. They manufactured a range of firearms, including rifles, shotguns, and pistols. One of their significant contributions during this period was the CZ 75 pistol, introduced in 1975. The CZ 75 gained international recognition for its innovative design and reliability.
3. Privatization and Expansion (1990s-2000s): With the fall of communism in Czechoslovakia, Česká zbrojovka underwent privatization. The company underwent a reorganization and focused on modernizing their manufacturing processes. They continued to produce a diverse range of firearms and gained popularity for their quality craftsmanship and competitive pricing.
4. Global Success and Expansion (2010s-present): In recent years, CZ firearms have experienced significant global success. They have expanded their product line to include various models of pistols, rifles, shotguns, and submachine guns. CZ firearms have gained a reputation for their accuracy, reliability, and ergonomic designs, attracting a growing number of enthusiasts, competitive shooters, and military and law enforcement agencies worldwide.
5. Innovation and Future Outlook: CZ continues to innovate and introduce new firearms to the market. They have developed cutting-edge technologies, such as polymer-framed pistols and modular rifle platforms. Additionally, CZ has acquired several other firearms manufacturers, expanding their portfolio and establishing a presence in different segments of the market.

Overall, the history of CZ firearms is characterized by a commitment to quality, innovation, and meeting the needs of shooters around the world. From their humble beginnings to their global success, CZ firearms have established themselves as a respected brand in the firearms industry.

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Are raccoons rodents? This is a question that many people ask about this commonly seen animal. Raccoons are considered by some to be in the same family as rats and mice, while others believe they are their own unique species. In this article, we will answer this question and provide you with more information about raccoons. Keep reading!

What are raccoons classified as? Are raccoon rodents or marsupials?

Raccoons are generally classified as either rodents or marsupials. They belong to the Carnivora order, meaning it’s a meat-eater, although a raccoon will eat anything available, including whatever is growing in your garden or sitting in your garbage can. Raccoons are members of the Procyonid family, which also includes ringtail cats, coatis of South America, and kinkajous of Central and South America.

Where does the word “raccoon” come from?

The word ‘raccoon’ is derived from the Algonquin Indian word ‘arakun,’ meaning ‘he who scratches with his hands.’ Raccoons are excellent climbers, often scaling trees and fences to get at food or avoid predators. They have sharp claws that enable them to climb and grasp things easily.

What do raccoons look like?

Raccoons are medium-sized animals with a body length of around 40 centimeters (16 inches), plus a tail that can add another 20 centimeters (8 inches) or more. They weigh between 4 and 12 kilograms (9 and 26 pounds). Males are generally larger than females. Raccoons have dense fur that consists of a soft undercoat and coarse outer guard hairs. The fur is usually grayish-brown but can range from pale silver to black. There is often a distinctive black “mask” across the eyes.

(Is Squirrel A Rodent? See this post for more)

What do raccoons eat?

Raccoons are omnivores, meaning they will eat just about anything. In the wild, their diet consists of fruits, vegetables, nuts, insects, rodents, small mammals, and even eggs. They are also known to eat garbage and pet food left outdoors.

(Do Raccoons Eat Cats? See this post for more)

FAQs

Raccoons vs. Possums: What’s the Difference?

Possums and raccoons may look similar, but there are some key differences between these two animals. For starters, possums are marsupials, meaning they have a pouch in which they carry their young. Raccoons, on the other hand, are not marsupials. Additionally, possums are typically smaller than raccoons and have longer noses. Possums also tend to be timider than raccoons and will usually only come out at night, whereas raccoons are active both day and night.

What is a Raccoon’s lifespan?

In the wild, a raccoon typically lives for 2-3 years. However, if they are living in captivity (i.e. in zoos or as pets), they can live for up to 20 years.

Are Raccoons dangerous?

While raccoons are not typically aggressive, they can be dangerous if they feel threatened. They may also carry diseases that can be harmful to humans, such as rabies. If you come into contact with a raccoon, it is important to wash your hands thoroughly and avoid touching your face. If you are bitten by a raccoon, you should seek medical attention immediately.

(How to get rid of chipmunks? See this post for more)

What do I do if I have a Raccoon problem?

If you are having problems with raccoons on your property, there are a few things you can do to deter them. First, make sure that there is no food or water available for them. This means keeping your garbage cans covered and not leaving pet food outside. You can also try to scare them away by making loud noises or shining a light on them. If these methods do not work, you may need to call a professional wildlife control company or use an air rifle to get rid of them. (For more on the best air rifle for pest control, see this post)

What Kingdom do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Animalia Kingdom.

What class do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Mammalia class.

What phylum do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Chordata phylum.

What family do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Procyonidae family.

What order do Raccoons belong?

Raccoons belong to the Carnivora order.

What genus do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Procyon genus.

What species do Raccoons belong to?

Raccoons belong to the Procyon lotor species.

In what type of habitat do Raccoons live?

Raccoons can live in a variety of habitats, including forests, mountains, and marshes. They are also commonly found in urban areas.

What is the main prey for Raccoons?

Raccoons eat fish, nuts, berries, and corn.

As every pig farmer knows, pigs need a constant supply of fresh water, but how to give them water and how to make sure the water will never run out are important to maintain good pig performance. And here is the practical guide for reference.

Simple Watering System and Drinker for Pigs

One of the simplest and best ways to water your pigs is a bucket with a brick or a large stone in the bottom to help prevent it from being overturned and split, and the bucket should be placed in a left-off tire.

This kind of waterer makes a great replacement when the automatic watering systems stop working or freeze in the winter. And a flat-wide bucket is recommended for making a better waterer. If you use a high-sided bucket, your pigs may not be able to get the water, especially for the small piglets or weaners. There is always a risk of piglets falling and drowning, so be careful when using this watering system with small piglets and weaners. If you do choose to use this system, you can fill the bucket with some stones or clean the grave to make the water level only a few inches deep at the most, which will help prevent the piglets from sinking if they fall in and they can get out easier.

Automatic Pig Watering System

The watering system for pigs is slightly different from other livestock watering systems and is mainly because of the size and shape of the animal. Pigs are strong with powerful jaw muscles and sharp teeth, which means any waterers you use have to be firm and solid enough.

The automatic water system makes it possible that you do not have to fill up pigs’ waterers every day. If your watering system is working correctly your pigs will have a constant supply of fresh water, and will never run out, which is essential for the hot days. You can switch off the automatic water system on cold days to prevent damage when it freezes and instead use the bucket-tire method.

Metal Water Feeder is Better

The metal water feeders are more durable, and hard-wearing, and also they can hold more water. Most of the internal parts and components are replaceable, so you can repair them yourself if they break down or stop working.

What Type of Piping to Use with the Water Feeder and Water Trough

This depends on what watering system you use and the diameter and thickness of the pipe needed to cope with the mains water pressure. The mains water pipe should be fitted with a stop tap which allows you to shut off the water when necessary and the water pipe needs to be as close to the mains side as possible. The water pipes need to be insulated, covered, or buried beneath the ground to prevent them from freezing and bursting during the winter. When using water pipes in a pig pen, it should be metal or copper to help prevent the pigs from lifting or bending the pipe. If the plastic pipe, make sure it is covered or out of reach of your pigs, and do not run plastic pipes across the floor of the pig pen.

Keep these 10 pheasant hunting tips in mind to get more pheasants in your sights.

From hot, dry weather early in the season to crowded conditions at state wildlife areas where birds are released, pheasant hunting can be a challenge. Yet veteran hunters have learned to use weather, heavy hunting pressure and wary birds to their advantage and shoot bag limits of roosters each fall.

Here are 10 tips from some of the best pheasant hunters around -hunting guides, state wildlife area managers and hunting club owners -on how to find more birds on public and private lands through the West.

1. USE A GOOD BIRD DOG

Each fall, many hunters are successful by walking through cover and flushing birds without a dog. But the most successful hunters are those with a good bird dog, be it a Lab or a pointer. Not only will a dog help you find more pheasants and other upland birds, but can also track down pheasants after they are shot.

“I’ve noticed that really good bird dogs are a huge advantage,” says Vince Oredson, a state wildlife area manager in Oregon. “I’ve seen fields get hunted over and over throughout the day. And then someone with a dog with a good nose will go in and find birds right away.”

Some hunters prefer Labs, which are excellent at flushing pheasants from heavy cover and also unmatched when it comes to tracking down birds after they are shot.

Others like a pointer, which will locate pheasants hiding in grass and brush and let their owner know exactly where they are.

“A flushing dog that can get into the heavy cattails and other cover can be an advantage in the middle of the day,” Oredson says.

“The pointer dogs work better in the shorter grass where the birds will be early in the morning.”

Burt Holzhauser owns the Rising Sun Hunting Preserve in California, one of the West’s best private-land pheasant hunting areas. He utilizes both Labs and English setters at his ranch.

“You have to have a dog,” Holzhauser says. “You lose too many birds because you knock them down and won’t be able to find them without a dog.”

Some private hunting clubs provide dogs and handlers for an additional charge.

2. LEARN TO DRIVE BIRDS

Jeremy Eubank is a very successful hunting and fishing guide from eastern Washington. He likes to drive pheasants early in the season when hot, dry weather limits success for many hunters.

Eubank’s technique works with or without dogs, although his Lab helps him bag even more birds. He will have one or more hunters take position at the top of a hill or ridge and wait. Then he pushes the birds to them by walking a slow zigzag pattern through brush and other cover.

Pheasants will often retreat uphill, running through the cover and then fly once the cover ends. That’s where the other hunter should be stationed.

Eubank cautions hunters to avoid pushing pheasants downhill. They will often take off flying before they near the hunters waiting to ambush them.

3. HUNT NEAR WATER

Oredson, the manager of Denman Wildlife Area in southern Oregon, and Holzhauser – whose Siskiyou County, Calif., ranch is rated as one of the best pheasant hunting destinations anywhere – get chances to see pheasants under all types of weather conditions. Early in the season and during dry weather patterns, pheasants will often hang out in areas with lots of water.

“They are going to be closer to the water holes,” Holzhauser says of birds in dry weather. “They are going to be in the good cover.”

Oredson agrees: “The birds will gravitate to streams and water holes during hot weather.”

Also look for birds near other water sources, aside from with streams and ponds – such as faucets, irrigation canals, livestock watering containers, pump houses and irrigation equipment.

4. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT

Private hunting clubs are gaining popularity with hunters as places to train their dogs before hunting pheasants on public-land areas. Hunting clubs and preserves often open before the general pheasant season and are great places to give bird dogs exposure to pheasant hunting.

Break out your rain gear and waterproof boots after the first big storm of fall for some of the best opportunities of bagging a pheasant.

“I have quite a few people who start young dogs here,” Holzhauser says. “I can flag the birds or tell the hunter exactly where they are. You know your dog is on a bird and not a rabbit or something else.”

Hunting clubs also often have a variety of types of cover to expose flushing and pointing dogs to differing terrains, vegetation types and hunting situations.

“I like to mix it up,” Holzhauser says of training new dogs. “I put them through everything from grain fields to tall wheat grass to sagebrush.”

It’s also a good idea to get reacquainted with your shotgun before the season starts – instead of when your dog points to or flushes the first rooster of the season.

“Practice shooting some clay pigeons before the season,” Oredson suggests. “Go out to the gun range and make sure your gun is functioning right. Pattern your shotgun. Make sure you are shooting a good pattern.”

Just as deer hunters scout before rifle season opens, good pheasant hunters will make a trip to their favorite hunting area before upland bird season begin. Watching where the birds are without hunters around will reveal locations to keep an eye on early in the mornings and late in the afternoons. Scouting for pheasants will also reveal cover types to be aware of once hunting opens.

5. SELECT THE RIGHT SHOT

While many hunters prefer 20-gauge shotguns for pheasant hunting, some like a 16-gauge. And the ever-popular 12-gauge, also used for duck and goose hunting, will suffice.

At Holzhauser’s ranch, lead shot is allowed. “I like No. 5 lead shot,” Holzhauser says.

“Something comparable to 4 and 6s. A heavy load, because the birds are tough enough that 7 1/2 isn’t going to knock them down.”

Holzhauser has seen hunters shoot birds with 7 1/2 shot. Despite being hit, the birds will often survive the blast and live.

If using steel shot, go with a bigger size than if you were using lead. On public lands, lead shot often cannot be used. Instead, size-4 steel shot is a good choice.

“Four seems to be the most popular size shot,” Oredson says. “You have a little less range with steel. If you keep them under 50 yards, you should do fine,” he says of shot range.

6. TIME YOUR HUNTS

Just like most hunting and fishing, pheasant hunting tends to be at its best early in the morning and again in the evening.

Mornings are best because the birds are often found in grasses or other light cover, searching for food. Once hunters and dogs arrive, the birds will retreat to heavier cover until pressure eases. They will then begin searching for food again.

At private hunting clubs, however, hunting is good throughout the day, as birds are often released several minutes to a few hours before hunters begin their hunt. Hunters can tell hunting club managers what type of hunt they want, from beginner to more challenging and if they want the birds disoriented or not.

On public grounds later in the day, the birds will come out again when hunting pressure drops off.

7. FIND PHEASANT SIGNS

When hunting new areas, Holzhauser says there are several giveaways – including tracks and crowing – to indicate if there are birds in the area.

“You will see them crossing the road,” said Holzhauser. “You’ll hear the roosters crowing.”

Late in the evening, pheasants will come out and feed before bedding down. You can often see them at dusk, which is a good time to scout for pheasants.

When scouting a new pheasant hunting area, Oredson suggests you look for birds where corn is growing.

“Corn seems to be a magnet for pheasants,” Oredson says. “They like the shade, they like the green cover and they like the corn itself. Pheasants also like thick cattails. Marshy areas hold a lot of birds, but they are a little harder to hunt.”

8. BE PATIENT

Many hunters become frustrated when they don’t bag a rooster within the first half hour of hunting.

Be patient, says Oredson. “If things aren’t working, take a break, sit down, eat a sandwich.” he says.

“Things change all the time. Another hunter can push birds into our area. Don’t get too frustrated. Sometimes you have to let the birds come to you.”

If you know birds are in an area but have hunkered down, slowly work the area with your dog. Break down the entire area and methodically going through all the cover with your dog.

9. HUNT THE COLD

The first really cold spell of the year can produce some of the best pheasant hunting of the season.

“The advantage of cold, wet weather is it’s easier on the dogs, and it makes the scenting conditions better for the dogs,” Oredson says.

Break out your rain gear and waterproof boots after the first big storm of fall for some of the best opportunities of bagging a pheasant.

Pheasants can also be easy to track on muddy or snow-covered ground.

10. KNOW THE REGS

Study the hunting regulations in your state before hunting. Regulation books will often include public-land release sites for pheasants.

Some Western states hold paid pheasant hunts, where hunters can harvest roosters on public land for a fee of about $10 a bird. There also are junior or youth pheasant hunts in many states.

California, Oregon and Washington all have information about the youth and adult state wildlife area pheasant hunts on their Web sites and in their regulation books.

Hunters must also be aware of tag and recording requirements. In Oregon, for example, you can be fined for bagging a pheasant and not recording it on your tag, just like keeping a salmon without recording it on your fishing license.

Also be aware of any hunter orange requirements, load or firearm restrictions or hunter education requirements for your state.

IT ALL STARTED HERE

Although the Plains States have a reputation for top-quality pheasant hunting, pheasants were first introduced to the U.S. in the Pacific Northwest.

After ring-necked pheasants were brought in from China in 1882, Oregon’s Willamette Valley was the first place in the U.S. to sustain wild populations of the birds.

Pheasants were also introduced to the Longview, Wash., area at the same time. The newly introduced birds thrived, and their populations quickly grew into the tens of thousands.

Eastern Oregon, eastern Washington and northeastern California still have good numbers of wild pheasants, although the birds are not as plentiful as they once were because of changes in the agricultural industries.

Pheasants thrive in farming areas of each state, but also are found in state wildlife areas where they are raised and released for hunters.

There also are private hunting clubs in each state where hunters can pay for each bird they want released.