Hornady has an incredible track record with cartridges over the last 20 years: 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 PRC, 300 PRC, 17HMR. The list goes on. In fact, I’d guess that 60% of the new hunting rifles in most gun stores today are chambered in a cartridge designed by Hornady.

The 7mm Precision Rifle Cartridge is a long-action centerfire rifle cartridge designed to shoot 180 grain bullets at 2,950 fps. It is intended for long-range shooting due to its ability to utilize high BC bullets, and is also uniquely suited for hunting large animals such as elk.

Pros and Cons of the 7mm PRC

Comparing 7mm PRC to Similar Cartridges

The 7mm PRC is similar to a 7mm Rem Mag, but it can shoot heavier bullets with higher BC’s, has no belt which causes problems for reloaders, and slightly less case capacity so longer barrels are not necessary. Think of it as a modernized 7mm Rem Mag.

The Precision Rifle Cartridge line is now broad enough that for many hunting uses, shooters will have a tough time deciding between the 6.5 PRC, 7 PRC, and 300 PRC.

As you can see from the above table, the 7mm PRC is most similar to the Gunwerks 7 LRM. In fact, Aaron Davidson, CEO of Gunwerks, jokingly said that the new 7PRC is the 7LRM. Obviously, there are many technical differences between the two, but they do fill a nearly identical hole in the market.

Personally, I have said for a long time on the Youtube channel that my ideal hunting cartridge would be a 7mm shooting 180 grains at 3,000 fps. That’s exactly what the 7PRC is, but it is by no means the only cartridge that offers those specs.

My prediction? The 7mm PRC will beat the following cartridges in sales over the next 20 years: 280AI, Gunwerks LRM, and the 7mm Rem Mag. Personally, I like all three of those cartridges for different reasons, but I think this new cartridge will become so popular over the next few years that those cartridges will quickly fade in the rearview mirror. Obviously, the 7mm Rem Mag isn’t going to just vanish in the next 10 years. It’s an incredibly popular cartridge, but over time, I expect the 7 PRC to overtake it.

The following table compares the 7 PRC to several other cartridges using Hornady’s Precision Hunter line of ammunition.

Recoil

The recoil of the 7mm PRC produces 27.7 ft-lbs of energy at a recoil velocity of 14.1 fps. That is more recoil than a .30-06 but less than a .300 Win Mag. It is on the upper end of what most large adult shooters can comfortably tolerate.

When I first shot the 7 PRC in a lightweight rifle, I was surprised by the stout recoil; however, adding a muzzle brake or a suppressor tames the rifle dramatically. I shot a coyote yesterday with the 7 PRC and had no problem seeing the bullet impact the coyote and the aftermath without losing my view of the target in the scope due to recoil.

7 PRC Cartridge Design

Before SAAMI drawings of the 7 PRC were released, I fully expected the 7 PRC to follow the industry-wide trend of overbore hot-rod cartridges. I thought for certain it would have more powder capacity than a 7 Mag so Hornady could advertise the new cartridge “beating” the old standard.

I was pleasantly surprised to see that the cartridge is quite mild. The 7 PRC has very slightly less case capacity than the 7mm Remington Magnum, but also has a twist rate and neck length capable of shooting much heavier bullets than are common in a 7 Mag.

Bullet Weights

The 7 PRC is designed around the 180-grain ELD-Match bullet; however, some people will certainly point to the fact that the 7mm Rem Mag has been able to shoot 180-grain bullets for many decades. The specified twist rate for each cartridge dramatically impacts the ability for a firearm to spin a bullet fast enough to stabilize a long bullet in flight.

Shooters will gravitate toward heavy-for-caliber high-BC bullets in the 7mm PRC. I have a table showing the highest BC 7mm bullets, but here are a few bullets likely to be popular in the 7mm PRC:

• 175gr Hornady ELD-X
• 160gr Hornady CX
• 180gr Hornady ELD-M
• 195gr Berger EOL
• 183gr Sierra MatchKing
• 180gr Berger VLD Target
• 180gr Berger VLD Hunting
• 175gr Berger Elite Hunter
• 175gr Nosler Accubond

Below are the specified twist rates for many similar cartridges to the 7 PRC. A faster twist in the rifling of a barrel allows the bullet to spin more quickly to stabilize longer (and consequently heavier) bullets.

Converting Your Rifle to a 7 PRC

Backfire was the first publication to put together a 7 PRC as soon as the SAAMI specs for the cartridge were released. Building a rifle with no reloading data and no established manufacturing was a challenge, but now you can easily get a rifle rebarreled for 7 PRC.

I highly recommend Preferred Barrel Blanks for this job. I had them make me a short 20″ carbon fiber-wrapped barrel chambered in 7 PRC. I’m getting impressive velocities despite the short length, and the accuracy has been insanely good-one of the most accurate rifles I’ve ever shot.

Be cautious when rebarreling a rifle into any of the “PRC” cartridges. Due to the extremely tight tolerances of these cartridges, I’ve seen MANY manufacturers struggle with delivering barrels that spike pressures or have brass that doesn’t fit right. The #1 reason I recommend Preferred Barrel Blanks is because they’ve sorted through those issues and can deliver problem-free prefit barrels.

The cool thing is that Preferred Barrel Blanks does prefits for just about any action you already have. You can get a new barrel for your Ruger American, Tikka, Bergara, Savage, etc. Or, you can of course use a custom action like a Terminus, Defiance, etc. As long as it’s a standard long-action, you should be just fine putting a 7 PRC barrel on it.

If you’re new to this, just call Preferred Barrel Blanks at (435) 635-6900 and tell them you read about them on Backfire and you want a 20″ carbon fiber-wrapped prefit barrel like the one they made for me. When it gets mailed to you, you screw it on and you have a 7 PRC! Simple as that. Below is a picture of the 7 PRC that Preferred Barrel Blanks built for me (Note: I also bought a MDT HNT26 chassis from them, which they had in stock).

Factory Rifles Offered in 7 PRC

I have a complete article on the best rifles available now in 7mm PRC.

As soon as the cartridge was officially announced, Hornady announced many rifle makers that will be producing factory offerings for the 7 PRC.

I was somewhat surprised by the list of firearms manufacturers who are not yet jumping on board with the 7 PRC. Tikka, Browning, and Bergara are conspicuously missing from the list and yet they all chamber for the 6.5 PRC.

Since this new cartridge has been announced, I’ve talked with my contacts at many of the major rifle manufacturers and have been surprised by how many of them are extremely frustrated with working on PRC chamberings in their rifles. There have been many changes to the reamer specs of the other PRC cartridges, and the tight tolerances make manufacturing difficult.

Reloading for the 7 PRC

I’ve done a significant amount of handloading and reloading for the 7 PRC over the last few months. Using dies from Whidden, I got to work.

Initially, I expected H1000 or Retumbo to be the best powders for the 7 PRC since they are fan favorites of the 7 Mag. I quickly saw that the 4 fewer grains of case capacity in the 7 PRC made these powders not ideal. So far, my favorite powder for reloading the 7 PRC is H4831SC using standard large rifle primers.

The challenge of loading for any of the PRC cartridges is the extremely tight tolerances. Even fairly experienced reloaders sometimes struggle to get reloaded brass to fit properly into the rifle.

Obviously Hornady makes dies for the 7 PRC, but I personally am not a fan of their dies. The only other company I’ve seen with die sets is Whidden Gunworks. They sent me their full-length bushing resizing die and micrometer seating die and I’ve been amazed with the quality. Seriously, it’s by far the nicest die set I’ve ever owned-and I’ve tried just about every brand out there.

Loading the 175gr ELD-X Bullet in the 7mm PRC

Important Note: This is anecdotal testing. Your results may vary. Unlike a load data book from one of the ammunition companies, I am not measuring pressure with a computer. I’m just looking at the brass for symptoms of being over-pressure, but sometimes those symptoms don’t show up until a cartridge is significantly overpressure as could be measured by a computer. This is for academic purposes only. Do not rely on my anecdotal testing for your rifle. If ya do… you might blow your face off.

First, let’s take a look at H4831SC powder loaded with a 175gr ELD-X bullet. This is using CCI Large Magnum primers, and shooting out of a 24″ test barrel.

Next, I loaded H1000. Unfortunately, the chronograph (Labradar) glitched out and didn’t record all the velocities, but I did at least shoot the following two that were recorded. Note that BOTH of these are a compressed load, so you couldn’t really go much faster than this with H1000.

This is again shooting the 175gr ELD-X bullet out of 24″ test barrel with a large magnum CCI primer.

Last, I shot Accurate Magpro powder with the same 175gr ELD-X and CCI large magnum primer out of a 24″ test barrel. Here’s what I found.

I also received some information from a gentleman in Canada who built a 7PRC. Here’s what he reported using a 175gr ELDX, Federal 215M primers, and Reloder26 powder. Here’s that data using his 24.5″ barrel:

After seeing these numbers, I’m most interested in pursuing H4831SC for this cartridge. H1000 ran out of space for powder before I reached max velocity. Magpro had a lot of case capacity left, but wasn’t getting the velocity I’d hope to see without just burning a ton of powder.

Personally, my load for the 175 ELD-X in the 7mm PRC will be 64gr of H4831SC, which should yield around 2,925fps. I believe that should be a max load but still safe in my rifle, efficient loading, and impressive speed.

It seems that the cartridge was designed to compress the load right at the point where you’d reach pressure with these common powders.

Interestingly, I loaded 61.2 grains of H4831SC in a 7mm Remington Magnum, and a 7mm PRC. I used the same primer, and the same 175gr ELDX bullet. However, the 7mm PRC shot on average 105 fps faster.

There is still quite a bit more case capacity left with Magpro (my guess would be you could go to 77 grains before it compresses), so that could be an option for max velocity, but you’d be going through quite a bit more powder to get there.

Loading the 195 Berger EOL Bullet in the 7mm PRC

For this load, I chose the 195 Berger EOL and loaded it to max COAL of 3.34″. I used CCI large magnum rifle primers, and lovingly caressed each bullet before sending it on the ride of its life. I’m still using the same 24″ test barrel by Preferred Barrel Blanks for this cartridge.

Loading the 150gr Hornady CX Bullet in the 7mm PRC

Note that with these loads, I switch to a standard large rifle primer-not a magnum primer.

I personally worked up my load using the 150gr Hornady CX bullet, but now Hornady has announced a new 160gr CX bullet with a much higher BC and only one band instead of the two bands on the 150gr CX. I will likely switch to that bullet once it becomes available.

Surprisingly, the factory ammunition for the 160gr CX bullet offers the same 3,000fps muzzle velocity as the 175gr ELD-X bullet. I expected it to go a little faster in the CX due to the lighter weight, but copper bullets can also increase pressures, so it seems that Hornady wasn’t able to get any increased speed out of it.

History of the 7mm PRC

Hornady officially announced the cartridge on October 26, 2022 at the NASGW Expo. The 7mm PRC was approved by SAAMI on June 7, 2022 and the public introduction was released on June 16, 2022. Backfire’s Youtube channel was the first publication to break the story of the cartridge’s SAAMI approval, and Backfire was also the first group to build a 7mm PRC and show it to the public.

Introduction

Jack rabbits are a common sight in Arizona and the Southwest. These quick, agile creatures are known for their long ears, strong hind legs, and fast running speeds.

Despite their name, jack rabbits are actually hares, not rabbits. They are an important part of the local ecosystem, and can be found in a variety of habitats throughout the area.

In this article, we will explore some of the most interesting and important facts about jack rabbits in Chandler, Arizona. We’ll discuss where they live, what they eat, how big they get, and much more.

Whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about these fascinating animals, this article is sure to provide you with some valuable insights.

Are jackrabbits dangerous?

No, jackrabbits are not considered dangerous to humans. They are generally shy and elusive animals that prefer to avoid human interactions whenever possible.

Jackrabbits are known for their incredible speed and agility, which they use as a defense mechanism to escape from potential threats. When they feel threatened, they rely on their ability to run quickly and change direction abruptly to evade predators.

While jackrabbits are not aggressive towards humans, they may exhibit defensive behaviors if they feel cornered or trapped. They may thump their hind legs or make sharp turns to confuse predators or individuals approaching them.

It’s important to remember that wildlife, including jackrabbits, should be observed from a distance and respected in their natural habitats. Avoid approaching or disturbing them, as they play an important role in their ecosystems and deserve to be appreciated from afar.

Can jackrabbits have antlers?

No, jackrabbits do not have antlers. Although some may argue that the famous jackalopes do! Antlers are typically found in members of the deer family, such as deer, elk, and moose. These bony structures are grown and shed annually by male deer species as a part of their reproductive behavior and dominance display.

Jackrabbits, on the other hand, are not deer species and do not possess antlers. They belong to the family Leporidae, which includes hares and rabbits. Jackrabbits have distinctive long ears and powerful hind legs that enable them to run swiftly to escape from predators.

It’s important to note that there may be certain anatomical variations or genetic abnormalities that can result in rare instances of antler-like growths in other species. However, such occurrences are extremely uncommon and not characteristic of jackrabbits in general.

When observing jackrabbits, you will typically see them without antlers, displaying their unique adaptations as lagomorphs, which include their remarkable speed and agility in evading threats.

Where Do Jack Rabbits Live?

Jack rabbits are found throughout the southwestern United States, including in the city of Chandler, Arizona. They typically prefer dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.

One of the best places to see jack rabbits in Chandler is at Veterans Oasis Park. This 113-acre park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including jack rabbits, coyotes, and many species of birds. The park features several miles of hiking trails, as well as a lake, a butterfly garden, and a cactus garden.

What Do Wild Rabbits Eat?

Jack rabbits are herbivores, which means they eat only plant matter. In the wild, their diet consists mainly of grasses, leaves, and the bark of trees and shrubs. They are also known to eat flowers, fruits, and seeds when they are available.

In urban areas, jack rabbits may eat ornamental plants and gardens if their natural food sources are scarce. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals is generally not a good idea. Not only can it be harmful to the animals, but it can also lead to conflicts with humans and other wildlife.

How Big Do Jack Rabbits Get?

Jack rabbits are one of the largest species of hares in North America. They can grow up to two feet in length and weigh as much as six pounds. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to run at speeds of up to 45 miles per hour, making them one of the fastest animals in the desert.

What Eats Jackrabbits?

Despite their speed and agility, jack rabbits are preyed upon by a variety of predators. Coyotes, bobcats, and foxes are some of the most common predators of jack rabbits in the wild. Birds of prey, such as hawks and eagles, may also hunt them from the air.

In addition to natural predators, jack rabbits may also be threatened by human activities such as habitat destruction, hunting, and vehicle collisions. It’s important to remember that jack rabbits, like all wildlife, play an important role in the ecosystem and should be treated with respect and care.

Where Are Jack Rabbits Found?

Jack rabbits can be found throughout the southwestern United States, including in Chandler, Arizona. They are most commonly found in dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Carrots?

Carrots are not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat them if they are offered. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans.

Carrots are high in sugar, which can lead to digestive problems in rabbits if they are consumed in large amounts. Additionally, feeding wild animals can cause them to lose their natural fear of humans, which can lead to conflicts and even aggressive behavior.

How Long Do Jackrabbits Live?

Jack rabbits have a relatively short lifespan, with most individuals living only two to three years in the wild. However, in captivity they may live up to seven years or more. Predation, disease, and other factors can all contribute to the relatively short lifespan of wild jack rabbits.

How Fast Do Jack Rabbits Run?

Jack rabbits are one of the fastest animals in the desert, with top speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to cover great distances quickly, which helps them to avoid predators and locate food and water in the arid desert environment.

How Many Wild Rabbits Are in a Litter?

The number of young in a jack rabbit litter can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the age and health of the mother, the availability of food and water, and the local environmental conditions. In general, a jack rabbit litter may contain anywhere from one to six young, with an average of three to four.

Why Do Jackrabbits Have Big Ears?

One of the most distinctive features of the jack rabbit is its long, upright ears. These ears serve a variety of purposes, including helping the animal to regulate its body temperature, locate predators and prey, and communicate with other rabbits. The large surface area of the ears helps to dissipate heat, which is important in the hot, arid desert environment where jack rabbits live.

How Often Do Wild Rabbits Breed?

The breeding habits of wild jack rabbits can vary depending on a variety of factors, including the local environmental conditions and the availability of food and water. In general, however, jack rabbits breed throughout the year, with peak breeding occurring in the spring and summer months.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Lettuce?

Lettuce is not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat it if it is available. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Lettuce is low in nutrients and high in water content, which can lead to digestive problems if it is consumed in large amounts.

How Much Do Wild Rabbits Eat?

The amount of food that a wild jack rabbit eats can vary depending on a variety of factors, including its age, size, and activity level. In general, however, jack rabbits consume about 1/4 to 1/2 pound of food per day. This may include a variety of plant matter, including grasses, leaves, bark, flowers, fruits, and seeds.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Apples?

Apples are not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat them if they are offered. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Apples are high in sugar, which can lead to digestive problems if they are consumed in large amounts.

Are Jack Rabbits Endangered?

Jack rabbits are not currently considered to be endangered. However, like all wildlife, they face a variety of threats, including habitat destruction, hunting, and vehicle collisions. It’s important to remember that jack rabbits, like all wildlife, play an important role in the ecosystem and should be protected and conserved for future generations.

Will Wild Rabbits Drink Water from a Bowl?

Wild rabbits are typically able to obtain all the water they need from their food, and do not need to drink water from a bowl. However, in urban areas where natural water sources may be scarce, wild rabbits may be attracted to water sources such as bird baths, swimming pools, or pet water bowls. If you want to provide water for wild animals, it’s important to use a shallow dish that is cleaned and refilled regularly.

Where Do Jack Rabbits Live?

As we’ve mentioned earlier, jack rabbits are found throughout the southwestern United States, including in Chandler, Arizona. They prefer dry, arid habitats such as deserts, grasslands, and scrublands. In Chandler, they can be found in a variety of locations, including parks, nature preserves, and open spaces.

Are Jack Rabbits Hares?

Yes, jack rabbits are actually hares, not rabbits. While both hares and rabbits belong to the family Leporidae, there are some key differences between the two. Hares are generally larger than rabbits, with longer ears and legs. They also have different reproductive strategies, with hares typically giving birth to fewer, larger young.

Will Wild Rabbits Eat Celery?

Celery is not a natural food source for wild rabbits, but they may eat it if it is available. However, it’s important to remember that feeding wild animals can be harmful to their health and can lead to problems for both the animals and humans. Celery is low in nutrients and high in water content, which can lead to digestive problems if it is consumed in large amounts.

Are Jack Rabbits Fast?

Yes, jack rabbits are one of the fastest animals in the desert, with top speeds of up to 45 miles per hour. Their long, powerful hind legs allow them to cover great distances quickly, which helps them to avoid predators and locate food and water in the arid desert environment.

How Much Do Jack Rabbits Weigh?

Jack rabbits can weigh up to six pounds, making them one of the largest species of hares in North America. However, the exact weight of an individual jack rabbit can vary depending on a variety of factors, including its age, sex, and overall health.

Conclusion

Jack rabbits are a fascinating and important part of the local ecosystem in Chandler, Arizona. These quick, agile creatures are known for their long ears, strong hind legs, and fast running speeds. Whether you’re a nature lover, a wildlife enthusiast, or simply curious about these fascinating animals, we hope that this article has provided you with some valuable insights.

We’ve discussed where jack rabbits live, what they eat, how big they get, and much more. We’ve also provided some important information about the risks of feeding wild animals, and the importance of protecting and conserving these amazing creatures for future generations.

If you’re interested in seeing jack rabbits in the wild, be sure to visit Veterans Oasis Park in Chandler. This beautiful park is home to a wide variety of wildlife, including jack rabbits, coyotes, and many species of birds.

Whether you’re taking a leisurely hike or simply enjoying the natural beauty of the park, there’s no better place to experience the wonders of nature in Chandler, Arizona.

Today I’m going to show you the best .300 AAC Blackout Rifle.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 20 guns alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted each rifle by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best 300 Blackout rifle, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The 4 Best .300 AAC Blackout Rifle

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 300 blackout rifles:

1. Springfield Armory Saint: Best Overall .300 AAC Blackout
2. IWI Tavor X95: Best for CQB
3. Wilson Combat AR-15 Ranger: Best .300 Blackout Rifle for Hunting
4. Daniel Defense DDM4 V7P 300 Blackout: Best for Home Defense

1. Springfield Armory Saint: Best Overall .300 AAC Blackout

For AR lovers, the introduction of the AR-15 pistol brought a euphoric excitement on par with winning your first superbowl. Not that I’ve ever won a superbowl.

But I HAVE mistakenly shouted, “I’m going to Disney World!” after pulling my first shiny AR pistol out of the box.

So, does the Springfield Armory Saint .300 AAC Blackout induce such thrilling feelings? Let’s check out if this pistol is a total whiff or a game-winning touchdown…

Accuracy

At the 50-yard line, the Saint was putting up impressive groupings of less than half an inch.

The 1:7” twisted barrel didn’t seem at all phased by repetitive shooting, so the heat didn’t warp the metal and throw off my accuracy one bit.

For the close-range shooter, this 300 blackout pistol is fast and sharp as a tack. Exactly what you need for home defense.

Take it out another 50 yards, and it was still giving me groups around 2 inches, which is what I expected from an AR pistol.

After polling prospective shooters, SA decided to forego built in sights, but the top rail is plenty big for your favorite red dot.

(I’ll cover essential optics and accessories in a bit).

Reliability

Made with aircraft-grade anodized aluminum, the receiver extension and upper assembly are built to last.

Pair that with the indestructible steel barrel and bolt coated in a Melonite finish, and you’ve got one sturdy .300 AAC blackout pistol.

Once I got my ammo figured out, I put hundreds of 300 Blackout rounds through this Saint with no problems. It WAS finicky with some subsonic cartridges that caused a few frustrating misfeeds.

After I put on my suppressor, though, it was back to smooth sailing.

The Accu-Tite Tension System on the lower receivers made movement negligible.

Meaning less friction, more usable years on the weapon. Also, the stock was well-built and comfortable.

All in all, for a close-range home defense weapon, you want it to be reliable and durable.

The SA Saint certainly did the job in these categories.

Handling

One of my favorite ergonomic features of this pistol was the well-textured grip.

The Saint is fitted with a Bravo Company Mod 3 grip that has built-in storage that’s perfect for the adjustment hex or a small bottle of oil.

Even though the barrel didn’t seem affected by the heat of excessive shooting, holding this 300 blackout pistol after many rounds did have me wanting a glove.

The M-LOK handguard and Carbine “H” Heavy Tungsten buffer were well-placed and made the Saint fun and comfortable to shoot.

Trigger

I was impressed with the SA Proprietary trigger that comes standard on a Saint.

No take-up and a crisp break.

The nickel boron coated GI style was usable at about 6 and a quarter pounds of pull and had a nice Bravo Company trigger guard.

The reset had a distinctive “click” that some might find obnoxious, but I thought it added a level of ease to firing that made it that much simpler to reflex fire without too much thought.

Magazine/Reload

The SA Saint Blackout pistol comes with a sleek 30-round Gen M3 PMAG that is the top choice for many AR marksmen.

I found that the PMAG dropped easily from the well and the release was very convenient to access with my firing hand.

Length/Weight

One of the most compact options out there, the Saint has an overall length of 27.25 inches while still sporting a 9-inch barrel.

It’s about mid-range in weight for an AR pistol, coming in at about 5 and a half pounds. Even fully loaded, I found that it was an easily manageable 7 pounds.

Recoil

The excellent SB Tactical SBX-K brace makes for amazing recoil control in this 300 blackout. I hardly noticed any kick and saw virtually no muzzle rise.

If you’re looking for a soft-shooter (a rare find among .300 Blackout weapons), then the Saint is one of the best out there.

Ammo and Accessory Recommendations

My best groups came when using Remington UMC .300 AAC Blackout 120 OTFB and Hornady 300 Blackout 125 HP for higher velocities.

BUT these 300 blackout rounds didn’t seem like they were going to work WITHOUT A SUPPRESSOR.

That said, you’ll want to fit your Saint with something like the GemTech HVT-QD Tactical 300 BLK suppressor. Once I fitted this GemTech to my 300 AAC pistol, it shot beautifully without any issues.

Also mentioned above, the Saint doesn’t come standard with a sighting system.

So, to put up your best shots, I’d recommend attaching an Aimpoint Pro which makes target acquisition a breeze.

Price and Special Features

One of the best things about the Saint is the excellent price.

It retails for around $989.

Featuring the Direct Impingement Pistol-Length Gas Port with an adjustable gas block, the Saint can be tuned without altering the buffer, spring, or barrel.

A nice feature that most AR pistols don’t have.

Another unique feature is that beautiful brace we talked about before.

The SB Tactical qualifies this slick-shooter as a pistol, making it legal in places that otherwise would be hitting you with a fat $200 tax.

Is the Springfield Armory Saint Worth It?

If you’re looking for a compact, reliable, soft-shooting AR-15 pistol, then look no further than the Springfield Armory Saint .300 AAC Blackout.

Let’s look at a replay of the MVP features:

• Durable
• Light recoil
• Great for home defense
• Close-range groups under a half inch
• Excellent brace

So, if you want to get in the AR pistol game for a great price and put mega accuracy, reliability, and size points on the board, then suit up with the SA Saint .300 Blackout… TOUCHDOWN!

2. IWI Tavor X95: Best for CQB

Picture this:

You’re a tactical specialist storming an enemy bunker in the sweltering Middle Eastern heat. Suddenly, a bogie pops around the corner armed to the teeth. Do you panic?

Of course not. You’ve got the most reliable, best close-quarter rifle this side of the continent. You quickly take aim, get off a few smooth rounds, target down. Now repeat indefinitely. No misfires, no thought.

Now, how would you like to hold a weapon like that in your hands? Good news: You can!

Let’s take a look at the powerhouse bullpup, IWI Tavor X95…

Accuracy

This pup is a beast at close range.

While bullpups aren’t traditionally known for their long-range accuracy, the X95 was putting out sub-2-inch groupings at 100 yards. Get even closer (25-50 yards) and I was getting five-round groupings of less than an inch.

The 1:7-inch twisted barrel with 6 grooves gave me a nice, tight shot.

What’s more? It comes fitted with built-in tritium front and iron back sights that conveniently fold right into the upper assembly.

You can’t get a better close-range 300 blackout bullpup than the X95.

Reliability

This weapon will stand the test of time.

Why? It’s got a long-stroke gas piston system that makes it ultra-durable, a high strength polymer stock, and a cold hammer-forged barrel.

After 500 rounds, the X95 showed no signs of wear and had no issues of any kind.

Handling

Balance is where this 300 blackout semi-auto really shines.

The balance point and charging handle are closer to your body and made it comfortable to shoot repetitively.

It was very easy to transition between targets, field strip, and perform all necessary shooting functions with my support hand. This weapon was perfect for close-quarter shooting.

My only encountered awkwardness was with the placement of the pistol grip that caused finger slippage behind the trigger.

Trigger

The X95 did have a heavier trigger pull weight around 7 and a half pounds.

Like most bullpups, the pull felt long, but the reset was more crisp than many pups I’ve fired.

Not the best trigger you’ll pull, but certainly not the worst!

Magazine/Reload

This Tavor model comes with a 30-round, 3rd Generation MagPul PMAG.

It took some practice to get the reload down (standard for a shooter who’s used to AR-15’s), but once I did, the placement of the well and ambi button made for flawless reloading.

If you have a go-to magazine for your AR’s other than a MagPul, the X95 does take any STANAG magazine.

Length/Weight

One of the best things about this 300 AAC blackout was the compact size.

It’s got a barrel length of 16.5 inches and an overall length just over 26 inches. It was a bit heavier than your typical AR, weighing in at 7.8 pounds.

For the shooter who’s looking to fire in tight spaces (like home defense), the compact feel of the X95 was preferable to a standard AR.

Recoil Management

Talk about smooth shooting…

The X95 had virtually zero felt recoil.

It’s not a heavy caliber weapon to begin with, but throw in the long-stroke piston system and thick rubber buttpad and you’ve got great recoil management with minimal muzzle rise.

I could definitely tell this 300 blackout gun was made for the combat-ready soldier who doesn’t have time to mess with a choppy rifle.

Ammo and Accessory Recommendations

While the X95 I shot was chambered in 300 Blackout, you can also get it in 5.56 NATO (try HPR 60 grain V-Max) and in 9mm.

I found the heavier the round, the more accurate shots, so I’d stick with higher grain 300 ammo.

As far as accessories, if the built-in sights aren’t your style, check out the Aimpoint Micro T-2 red dot. It was easy to attach to the picatinny rail and upped my accuracy significantly.

I’d also recommend a trigger upgrade if you can hack it. I like the Super Sabra pack made by Geissele as it has a smoother and lighter pull.

Price and Special Features

You can pick up the X95 for a retail price of around $1,999 at most gun shops.

The compact size and long-stroke piston gas block system are the standout features of the X95.

It’s also unique in that it is significantly shorter than an AR, but the full-length barrel makes it non-NFA. What does that mean for you?

No annoying $200 tax!

Is the IWI Tavor X95 Worth It?

So, with the higher price tag, is the X95 worth the investment?

After shooting this compact 300 blackout powerhouse, I can confidently say…

“Absolutely!”

It’s one of the best choices for combat shooting as well as close-quarters home defense. Here’s why:

• Reliable
• Compact
• Well-balanced
• No extra taxes
• High polymer stock

Overall, this Israeli-made AAC blackout bullpup is a durable, well-balanced soft-shooter.

If you’re looking to take out short and mid-range targets with a high-quality 300 blackout rifle that’ll feel like it’s made just for you, then don’t miss your shot at the IWI Tavor X95.

3. Wilson Combat AR-15 Ranger: Best .300 Blackout Rifle for Hunting

Wilson Combat makes some of the most innovative, reliable, and deadly specialty weapons in the market.

But their AR-15 Ranger series may exceed even a die-hard Wilson fan’s expectations with its lightweight build and razor-sharp precision.

Let’s check out how this incredibly accurate, compact power-house will make you one of the deadliest predators in the field…

Accuracy

The Ranger is a precision paradigm.

Wilson boasts that this rifle has the lightest match-grade barrel on the market, making for extremely fast transitions between targets.

And I’d have to agree.

In speed drills, I was clocking my fastest times with my smallest groups ever in part because the taper of the aluminum barrel is incredibly light and maneuverable.

But chances are for hunting, you’ll need more accuracy within the 100 yard mark and less speed. So, I walked out to 100 yards and was pleasantly surprised at my 1.3-inch 5-shot groups.

I’d feel more than confident taking the Ranger out for whitetail, bear, and hogs.

Reliability

Nearly every component of the Ranger is mil-spec and MP inspected.

Not to mention the corrosion-resistant NP3 coating on the bolt and hard-anodized receivers coated in a super sturdy Armor-Tuff finish that make this rifle weather and wear-proof.

I pulled my Ranger straight from the box and put about 500 rounds through without incident.

Then, without lubricating a thing, I put through 500 more.

I’m not sure how long I could’ve sat there plinking, but after 1000 rounds the smooth action and sturdy hardware felt like they’d barely taken a hit.

This rifle will last as long as you need and is reliable enough for any length of hunting excursion.

Handling

With a midsize Wilson SLR click-adjustable gas block, the Ranger can be fine tuned to work best with whatever ammo you’re shooting.

This adjustment capability added an extra push to the already-comfortable rifle.

One thing I did find strange about the Ranger was the stock. It has such exceptional receivers, bolts, and hardware, that I didn’t expect to pick it up and feel cheap plastic.

That may have just been a first impression, though, because even later that day I couldn’t even notice the tacky-feeling stock.

Trigger

Here’s where I was sold on the Ranger.

The single-stage Tactical Trigger Unit had virtually zero take-up, no slack, and a distinct reset.

What’s more?

This trigger pulled crisp and clean right at a light 4 pounds.

Magazine/Reload

The Ranger ships with one standard 30-round magazine that clips into the well like just about every other AR.

Reloads were fast and easy, though I did scare away a few squirrels close by with the audible “click” as I snapped in the mag.

Since most AR-users want more than 30 rounds to work with, I’d recommend grabbing a few extra mags to keep in your bag.

Length/Weight

Virtually every metal component of the Ranger is made from lightweight billet aluminum, making it a reasonable 8 pounds.

With a barrel length of 16 inches and overall extended length of 36.5 inches, this rifle is easy to maneuver in thick brush as well as ground blinds.

Recoil Management

There wasn’t much kick to this rifle.

The Rogers Super-Stock buttstock absorbs a lot of the recoil and also features a unique locking mechanism to reduce movement.

Price and Ammo Recommendations

The Wilson Combat Ranger retails for $2300.

But, you get every ounce of what you pay for in a lightweight, accurate, and reliable precision machine.

The Ranger has a few caliber options, but my favorite is the .300 Blackout for its power and economy.

Here are my favorite rounds for the Ranger:

• Hornady 110 gr GMX Full Boar: Designed for deeper penetration and higher weight retention, I love this round for quick, clean kills.
• Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr: Some of my best groups were with this Winchester round that was specially made to take down deer. This round fed smoothly and maintained a ton of power downrange.

Accessory Recommendations

The Ranger comes with a 10-inch MLOK rail and covers so that you can attach your favorite optics, lights, or accessories.

It also comes with a threaded muzzle fitted with an awesome Q-Comp muzzle brake.

Here are some of my favorite other add-ons for the Ranger:

• EOTech EXPS3-0 Red Dot (Night Vision Compatible): I love this red dot for its large FOV that allows me to shoot with both eyes open. Plus, it’s night-vision compatible and has a quick-detach lever.
• Wilson V3 Ultralight AR Scope Mount: To keep your rifle as light as possible, I’d go with this durable, lightweight mount that securely attaches your optic.
• Viking Tactics Wide Quick Adjust Sling: This heavy-duty sling will stand up to just about any weather conditions and makes carrying my Ranger silent and comfortable.

Is the Wilson Combat Ranger Worth It?

The Wilson Combat Ranger is my favorite .300 Blackout AR-15 to take out mid to large size game.

Here’s why. It’s:

• Lightweight
• Compact
• Accurate
• Reliable

For the best groups, highest durability, and happiest shoulder in the field, I trust no other AR-15’s apart from the Wilson Combat Ranger.

4. Daniel Defense DDM4 V7P 300 Blackout: Best for Home Defense

Daniel’s Defense, headquartered in Black Creek, Georgia, has rapidly become a top of the line weapons manufacturer.

Producing the famed DDM4V7 rifle, Daniel’s Defense has now produced an AR pistol variant – the DDM4 300 Blackout Pistol.

Let’s break it down the specifics.

Accuracy

The DDM4V7 is a highly accurate blackout rifle designed to be used for competition shooting.

(Speaking of competition shooting, if you’re into long-range shooting, check out this guide on the best .338 lapua rifles).

The barrel is an in-house fabricated, cold hammer-forged 5.56 barrel with 1:7 twist, manufactured from 4150 CV ordnance steel.

While certainly a shorter range weapon than its rifle predecessors, the .300 Blackout is most certainly a highly accurate weapon.

In fact, I’ve shot over 100 rounds while maintaining 2” (or less) groupings. Seriously. The accuracy is spot on.

Reliability

The DDM4 300 is INSANELY reliable.

In fact:

I’ve yet to experience any malfunctions or jams – despite shooting over 200 rounds through a variety of handloaded ammo.

How is it that reliable?

For starters, the lower and upper receiver are forged out of 7075 T6 aluminum. The spring and bolt are both manufactured to MILSPEC standards. And the bolt itself is high quality 158 Carpenter steel.

In other words:

The Daniel Defense DDM4 is built to last.

Handling

The DDM4 is lightweight and pleasant to handle, without the sharp projections that sometimes come with other AR platform models.

Weighing in at a 5.44 pounds and measuring at 28.5 inches, the DDM4 can be moved with ease, making it a great option for sport shooting, target shooting, and self defense.

The grip, hand guards, and enlarged trigger guard is easy and comfortable to handle.

The collapsible butt stock is backed by a rubber inlay where it meets the cheek, gripping well and preventing sliding during firing.

My one complaint with the butt stock is that the rubber can sometimes grab beard hair. However, this is a minor inconvenience at most.

Trigger

The trigger is very light.

It’s a straight bow Geissele Automatics Super Dynamic system that allows an easy pull, minimizing the chances of yanking the gun to the side while shooting.

Magazine & Reloading

The DDM4 300 ships with a standard 30 + 1 round magazine.

The gun itself works with all standard STANAG 4179 compliant magazines. Which means you’ll almost certainly be able to use your other AR-15 magazines with the DDM4.

As said before, the DDM4 comes with the proprietary flared magazine well, making reloading quick and easy.

This is a blackout rifle that will not be difficult to reload in a high pressure situation — including self-defense or competition.

Length & Weight

The 300 Blackout is 28.5 inches long and only 5.44 lbs.

Part of what makes this weapon special is that it is considered a pistol.

In other words, it does not require ATF approval or a tax stamp to get your hands on it.

The LAW Tactical folding stock adapter means that the weapon’s length can be reduced even further, making this a prime weapon for close quarters encounters.

(A plus if you’re in law enforcement).

Recoil Management

The DDM4v7 does an excellent job of making recoil almost non-existent.

The pistol-length gas system paired with the length of the weapon means that the barrel won’t be climbing as you shoot.

Furthermore, the rifle comes equipped standard with Daniel Defense’s own “Muzzle Climb Mitigator,” a legal flash-hider.

Shooting this weapon is not like firing off an old 30-06 hunting rifle where your bruised shoulder will remind you that you’ve been shooting.

The recoil is pretty much zero.

Price

I’m going to admit:

The DDM4V7 .300 Blackout is an expensive weapon, costing between $1,729 to $2,016.

With many decent AR-15 variants being priced around $800, the price tag may come as somewhat of a shock.

In fact:

You certainly can get an AR-15 or AR pistol that works well for a cheaper price. However, you might encounter some reliability or accuracy issues.

That’s not the case with the DDM4V7. It’s highly accurate and reliable, and the price reflects that.

Recommended Accessories

The DDM4V7 .300 Blackout AR pistol comes with a full length MFR 9.0 rail that runs the full length of the gun.

Which means, you can upgrade this bad puppy with sick accessories. I’d recommend attaching a Nightforce NXS 2.5-0X42. Or an EOTech sight.

Is the Daniel Defense DDM4V7 Worth It?

If you’re looking for one of the best 300 AAC blackout, then the Daniel Defense DDM4 is for you.

It has great accuracy, fantastic handling, and fault-free function. In addition, its low weight and short profile makes it ideal for close quarters engagements.

In short: the DDM4 is a high quality 300 blackout rifle with high quality parts.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best .300 AAC Blackout Rifle guide.

So as a recap:

What is the best 300 Blackout pistol? I highly recommend the Springfield Armory Saint.

What about CQB? Then opt-in for the IWI Tavor X95.

Looking for a .300 hunting rifle? Get the Wilson Combat AR-15 Ranger.

Lastly, if you’re looking for the best home defense 300 blackout rifle, then the Daniel Defense DDM4 V7P is what you’re looking for.

All of the 300 blackout rifles above are tried and tested. I’ve fired hundreds of rounds through them and have experienced no problems whatsoever.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which 300 AAC blackout rifle will you pick?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

What Is A Shotgun Choke?

A choke is simply a tapered constriction of the gun barrel’s bore at the muzzle end. The exit end of the choke is smaller by some dimension than the actual bore of the barrel. This difference is the amount of constriction. For example if the bore of the barrel is .730 and the exit dia of the choke is .710 you have a constriction of .020. The amount of constriction for a given degree of choke will also vary between manufacturers. As a general rule for standard chokes the total range will be between .000 and .045 thousandths of an inch under bore diameter. In the case of special purpose turkey chokes it can be as much as .100 or 1/10th of an inch. The length of the choke can vary as well. Most, but not all chokes will have an overall length of between 1.5 and 4 inches. Note that many fixed choke barrels marked skeet will actually be .000 or cylinder.

They can be grouped in 3 general types:

1- Fixed chokes- They are made as an integral part of the barrel and cannot be readily changed except by a gunsmith and any alteration is considered permanent.

2- Interchangeable chokes- These can be of the “screw on” style which is externally attached or the “screw in” which is recessed into the barrel. To change the degree of constriction you simply remove and replace with a choke of a different diameter.

3- Adjustable chokes- This style of choke is adjustable throughout the entire range by turning a sleeve, which collapses or allows a collet to expand thus changing the exit diameter. A popular choke of this type is the Polychoke.

The internal design of chokes can also be broken down into three main groups:

1- Conical Parallel- This style has a cone that blends into a parallel section which helps to stabilize the shot charge as it leaves the choke.

2- Straight Conical- This has a cone only. Where the cone stops is the point where the shot exits the choke.

3- Wad Retarding-They do not have the constriction in the same manner as either of the above designs but instead use bumps or projections to alter the shot pattern.

The most common design in use is the conical parallel. All Trulock Chokes are of this design.

Shotgun Bore Diameter and Pattern Performance

I am often asked the above question by people who are interested in purchasing a new shotgun. They reason that if a specific bore size inherently gives better, that is more even patterns, then it makes sense to purchase a shotgun with that bore diameter.

Shotguns that were made in the U.S.A. were for many years, all of the same nominal bore diameter (.730 plus or minus the tolerance of the individual manufacturer) as the U.S. standard for 12 ga was .7299. With the rise in popularity of foreign shotguns such as Beretta we were introduced to smaller bores running in the nominal .721/.725 diameter. Stan Baker to the best of my knowledge was the first to do extensive experiments with backbored barrels (the process of enlarging an existing bore diameter) taking the 12 ga bore up to a nominal 10 ga diameter of .775. Some time back Browning added a new choke design to their line which they named Invector Plus to differentiate it from their original design called Invector. The new chokes and the barrels were based on a nominal .740 bore diameter. I believe that Browning was the first company to offer a factory barrel with a bore diameter that was significantly larger than standard. Currently most of the major shotgun manufacturers offer at least some models with bores larger than their “standard” bores. Some have gone totally to a new larger bore. The results of this are that today’s shooter has a very wide range of bore diameters to choose from.

Pulling from my memory I can recall the following nominal 12 ga. bore sizes. These may not be exact numbers as each manufacturer has plus and minus tolerances. Some of the below numbers have been rounded when converting from metric measurements and some for my convenience.

.725

.730

.733

.735

.740

.745

.774

Now that you have all of the background information, you can get my answer.

I have always been able to obtain the pattern that I was looking for within reason (no 100% patterns at 80 yards) with all of the above bores by patterning with different chokes and or shells. I have had shotguns on occasion that took quite a bit of work to obtain the pattern I wanted but this has never been limited to a certain bore size as they were always a random mix.

Shotgun Patterns

Patterns are normally expressed as a percentage such as 50%, 60%, 70% ect. This is the commonly accepted method comparing pattern density. In a 50% pattern ½ of all the pellets contained in the shell will strike inside of a circle of 30 inches in diameter. To find the percentage of any given load divide the number of hits inside the circle by the total number of pellets contained in the shell. You can obtain the approximate number of pellets any given load will have from a shotgun shell reloading book or you can open a couple of shells and actually count the pellets. Normally all pattern testing is done at a distance of 40 yards with the exception of cylinder and skeet 1 chokes in all gauges and all chokes for the .410 bore which are normally measured at 25 yards. Industry pattern percentages for chokes were developed using the preceding distances. If you want to compare any given choke to the industry figures you should do your pattern testing at the same distance.

The purpose for this is to allow you to select a choke that will throw a pattern that is as large as possible without having the pellets so far apart that the target can move through the shot string without receiving multiple hits. For shooting both game and clay targets you want a pattern that is perfectly even in pellet distribution over the 30-inch circle. Having said that, and after looking at thousands of patterns over a span of 25 years I could count on my fingers the number that I would call “even” and if these were measured close enough they would not have qualified. In this instance “very close” is excellent. Two exceptions to the preceding would be buckshot and turkey patterns. With both of these you are looking for a tight center cluster of pellets.

One thing to remember –The only thing that is consistent about shotguns is that very few things are consistent. Identical guns with the same degree of choke and using the same shell may not pattern the same. The same load between various brands of shells can pattern differently. Patterns will change when changing from hard to soft shot. Patterns can change when anything in the shell changes such as different wads, powders or primers. What I am trying to get across is that when you change anything such as brands, shot size, or components you will need to check the pattern as it could have changed, sometimes by an extreme amount.

Once you find a choke/shell combination that gives you the pattern you want it should remain reasonably consistent as long as nothing is changed. I am satisfied as long as the percentage stays within a 5% plus or minus deviation.

The below chart shows the relationship between the degree of choke, the percentage and constriction based on lead shot. Keep in mind that the percentages are a guide only. What you actually want is a pattern that is dense enough to insure multiple hits on your target at the distance you normally shoot.

Lead Shot Choke Chart

Constriction Percent Cylinder .000 40 at 40 yds- 70 at 25 yds Skeet 1 .005 45 at 40 yds- 75 at 25 yds Imp Cyl .010 50 at 40 yds Skeet 2 (lite mod) .015 55 at 40 yds Modified .020 60 at 40 yds Imp Mod .025 65 at 40 yds Full .030 70 at 40 yds Extra Full .040 73 at 40 yds Turkey .045 Plus 75 PLUS at 40 yds

Keep in mind that this chart should be used as a starting point only. Select the choke and pattern it. Change chokes or loads as needed to get the pattern you want. If you do not pattern your gun please feel free to accept this chart as being infallible.

What Choke Should I Use

The most frequently asked question we get is “What choke do you suggest”?

Use a choke that will give you 70 or so percent patterns at the distance you plan to shoot.

If you look back at the “lead shot choke chart” it is obvious that open chokes at long distances will have a much more open pattern than tighter chokes. I will not argue the point that you can certainly break/kill targets at 40 yards with a skeet choke but the odds are certainly not in your favor. Try your best to estimate the distance that you would normally encounter for a specific shooting condition and select a choke that gives you an evenly spaced 70% pattern with your choice of shell. Rarely, will your estimate be “on the money” so test pattern this combination at distances both closer and farther from your established base line. If the shooting distances change then change your choke to match them.

When I first started dove shooting many years ago, I noticed there were always one or two men at every shoot that almost never missed a bird. After long observation I realized that the one thing that each had in common was that they picked their shots instead of blasting at every bird in the field. They were simply shooting those birds that were within range of whatever gun/choke/shell combination they were using. In my opinion shooting range equals 70% pattern density.

While there are other variables, for all practical purposes chokes will have the biggest effect on pattern density. I look at density from two different ways. The first is the pattern percentage. This is simply a figure telling you how many pellets out of the total number of pellets that were fired at the target hit inside a thirty-inch circle. Example: 250 pellets were in the shell and 200 landed inside the circle. Divide 200 by 250 = 80%. Percentage is percentage and it does not matter what size of shot is used.

The second way is pellet spacing. Common sense tells us that a 1-¼ oz. load of #8 shot will have many more pellets than a 1-¼ oz. load of #4 shot. If both loads pattern at 70% you will have more # 8 shot in the target than you would have with 4’s. The pellets must be close enough that the target cannot slip through. While I generally think that the 70% rule is sufficient, some of the larger pellets may not give enough density. Pattern and make sure.

How To Pattern

I like to use paper that measures 4 feet square. Paper this size may be hard to find locally. If it is not available try taping several sheets of butcher paper or newsprint together. Bruce Buck the “technoid” of “Shotgun Report” suggested using red resin flooring paper. This is available at any home supply store and shows the pellet holes perfectly when viewed from the back. He noted it is available only in 36-inch wide rolls but it cuts and tapes easily. If you use small paper and your gun does not shoot to the point of aim, part of your pattern could be off of the target. You would probably confuse this with a bad pattern. Mark the target center for use as an aiming point. I strongly suggest that you use a padded shooting bench when patterning. At this point you are not checking the gun for fit and a bench rest helps to remove some of the variables. Note that if your head/eye is not located in the same place on the stock between bench rest and offhand shooting your point of impact will be different. From the correct distance, shoot at the center of the target. I would do this a minimum of 5 times on different targets with each shell or choke that is being tested. You will need to draw a 30-inch circle around the most dense portion of the pattern on each target. If you intend to do much of this get a 30-inch diameter piece of thin Lexan [Plexiglas]. You can easily move this around on the paper to find where to draw the circle. Count the pellets inside of the circle. Divide this number by the total number of shot contained in the shell and you will have your percentage. Take the percentage from each target, add them and divide by the total number of shots fired for each shell or choke. This will give you the overall average for that test. Sounds like a royal pain doesn’t it? It is, but there are no short cuts if you really want to know what your shotgun is doing.

After you have finished look carefully at each pattern for holes that are big enough to let your intended target slip through. You want a dense enough pattern to ensure multiple hits.

Point of Impact

We are asked on occasion about chokes that do not center the pattern exactly on the aiming point. Most shooters want a shotgun that centers the pattern exactly with the point of aim. Most shotguns are manufactured in theory to do this. The problem arises between theory and fact. It is not unusual to find shotguns that shoot high or low and to the right or left or a combination of these. Shotguns that pattern ½ above and ½ below the point of aim have what is commonly known as a 50/50 pattern. One that shoots ¾ of the pattern over and ¼ under the point of aim has a 75/25 pattern and so on. Certain guns are designed to give patterns other than 50/50. WE WILL ASSUME that you know if your gun was designed to give a pattern other than 50/50.

Some of the common reasons for off center patterns are listed below.

1-Defective choke tube

2-Bent barrel

3-Choke/barrel alignment

4-Loose barrel

5-Poor gun fit

6-FLINCH

This could also result from a combination of any of the above.

To check your gun for point of aim we suggest the following

1- Shoot from a padded rest.

2- Make sure to get perfect bead alignment if your gun has a center bead, if it doesn’t get the rib perfectly flat, with the bead visible.

3- Use the same load as you will use in the field or on the range.

4- Squeeze the trigger. This is easier said than done as most shotgun trigger assemblies give anything but a good pull.

5- Use targets with a center aiming point.

Shoot several targets, change chokes and repeat.

I would suggest you do this with several different chokes. If you are using aftermarket chokes also test some of the factory tubes that came with the gun.

1- If all of the chokes shoot to the same spot or at least very close to the same, your problem is not with the chokes.

2- If your point of impact changes with each choke you test your problem is not the chokes.

3- If one choke shoots to a different point of aim and the others do not. I would say that choke is defective and a call to the manufacturer would be in order.

One other thing you should be aware of is the “point of convergence” [POC]. This problem will be found only on side-by-side or over/under shotguns. Both barrels should shoot to the same spot. Again what works in theory seldom works in practice. Generally with O/Us the top barrel will shoot high. When testing for proper POC you will find it somewhat easier if you use tight chokes. If the POC is close, be happy, many are not. If you cannot live with the error I suggest you talk to the manufacturer.

Steel Shot/Waterfowl Chokes

Much has changed over the years with steel loadings. The quality and consistency of the shells has been greatly improved. However, the fact that steel shot exerts much more stress on choke tubes has not changed. The problem is that steel shot is much harder than lead. It will transmit much more energy to the choke when it strikes the conical portion and if the tube is not of sufficient strength it will cause it to deform. This is known as “choke creep”

Over a period of time choke creep can lock a choke in the barrel so that it is next to impossible to remove. Most Trulock Chokes are rated for use with steel shot from cylinder bore through improved modified with the exception of the Tru-Choke S.D. which are not recommended for any shot other than lead. In addition our Super Waterfowl Choke was designed especially for steel and all other environmentally friendly shot.

It is strongly suggested that you use our Extended Precision Hunter style choke for steel shot as they normally give a superior pattern over the flush style chokes.

Close Range -approximately out to 30 yards – Skt 1= pattern percentage of about 55% Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Medium range- approximately out to 35 yards-Skt 2 [light mod] =pattern percentage of 65%

Long Range-35yards and further- Improved Modified =pattern percentage of 75%

Extreme Range= Super Waterfowl series=pattern percentage of 80% plus

The above suggestions normally work well with number (4, 3, 2 ect.) size steel shot. If you are using letter size (BB, BBB ect.) steel you may find your best results using cylinder (close range) improved cylinder (mid range) and modified for long range.

If you are switching from standard velocity steel to fast steel and you notice a decrease in pattern performance try backing off of choke constriction by .005 from whatever size you presently use.

These suggestions should be used as a starting point and should not be taken as a substitute for patterning your shotgun.

The recommendations below are for Trulock Chokes only.

Tungsten Iron- Use the same choke constrictions as you would for steel shot.

Tungsten Shot such as Hevi-Shot, Hevi 13, Winchester Extended Range and Federal Heavyweight.

For waterfowl and upland bird hunting we suggest you use two sizes smaller shot than you would with steel. We find that these alloys can be used in chokes with much more constriction than you can use with steel shot and they retain velocity much better. This, in my opinion makes them the ultimate choice for long range shooting. For normal patterns using # 6 thru # 2 size shot we like a skt 1 for close range, a skt 2 (light mod) for mid range and improved modified for long range. For shots on the long side of 40 yds try the extra full constriction or one of our Super Waterfowl chokes.

This type of shot can be used in our turkey chokes and normally deliver excellent patterns.

Bismuth – Use the same chokes you would use with lead shot.

All current production Trulock Chokes are marked on the body if rated for steel or tungsten or both.

Turkey Chokes

We make a wide assortment of chokes that fall under this heading. No one choke works well in all guns with all loads but one thing has to be consistent, the shot shell. You will have to shoot premium factory loads or assemble your hand loads with the best components available in order to get good dense patterns at long range. While this basically holds true for all shotgunning it is especially so when hunting turkeys. You have a very small kill zone even when the bird is at close range and it is imperative that you know exactly what your shotgun and shell is capable of doing. In testing different shells we have found several that work very well.

1- Hevi Shot

2- Federal Premium Mag Shok Heavyweight

3- Winchester Supreme Elite Xtended Range Hi-Density- No longer loaded but some existing stock may be on dealer’s shelves.

4-Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ Scroll down for more information

As a rule we found that the shells with “heavier than lead” pellets shot tighter patterns than those using lead but this may not be the case with your gun.

To get a dense pattern with a tight center you will need the Precision Hunter style choke. Our three most popular chokes have exit diameters of .670, .665 and .660. Although some shotguns like a .680 generally one of the above ends up working better. We also make a.650 and .640 but these are better suited to card shooting and not live bird hunting as they like smaller # 8 shot better. The smallest exit diameter does not always give the tightest pattern. We find that the smaller the exit diameter the more erratic the patterns. Normally one particular load will pattern considerably better than the rest. Let me repeat that you will be wasting your time to shoot a cheaply made or promotional type shell. We have patterned the above listed shells with our chokes and make the following suggestions.

Suggested turkey chokes and shot size

.690 first choice for .774 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.670 first choice for .740 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.665 first choice for .730 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

.660 first choice for .725 bore guns- #5/6 lead, #6 “heavier than lead”

We have NOT had a chance to test Remington’s replacement for Hevi Shot but will do so and post the results.

Please note that a choke of a given exit diameter is usually going to give a different pattern when used in guns of different bore diameters.

Take a Beretta at .723 a Remington at .727 a Browning I.P. at .740 and using a .660 in all three guns normally gives three different patterns. Just because a .660 worked very well in your Remington does assume it will work great in your Browning.

Special Turkey Chokes for Specific Shells

Trulock Fed # 7 turkey chokes

After testing the Federal Heavyweight turkey # 7 we were so impressed we designed a series of turkey chokes especially for this shell. It gave very good results as per the below pattern. The folks at federal tell me that the # 7 tungsten pellet has the same killing power at 40 yards as a # 5 lead pellet.

Federal #7 turkey load fired through Trulock Fed #7 choke at 40 yards.

Winchester Long Beard™ XR™ turkey chokes

These shells use lead shot that are encased in a special solid buffer that fractures upon firing. I don’t have a clue what the buffer is but I can tell you that patterns fired using this type of shell are amazing.

We developed a line of turkey chokes for this shell that is shot size specific. We make chokes specific to the #4, #5 and #6 shot sizes.

Combine the Longbeard XR™ turkey load with Trulock’s new LongBeard XR choke tubes to maximize the shell’s performance. With this remarkable combo, you can expect 10% greater penetration over standard lead loads beyond 50 yards and twice the number of pellets in a 10″ circle out to 60 yds.

#5 Shot #6 Shot

Chokes for Buckshot

As with Turkey chokes you will be trying to get a very dense, tight pattern but since you have such a small number of pellets you cannot afford to have as many fliers. However, the rule about using premium shells does not change. Hard, plated pellets with a buffer will normally shoot tighter patterns with fewer fliers than those loads made with soft lead and no buffer. I would suggest the Precision Hunter style choke [extended] with a constriction of .030. This would be our full choke. Some gun/load combinations will work better with a constriction of .040 (extra full). One of these two constrictions will normally give you a very dense pattern.

The only sure way to know for sure which choke your gun likes the best is to test pattern and see.

Do not use turkey chokes for “00” buckshot. They have too much constriction and will decrease not increase the density of the pattern.

The constrictions suggested were based on the use of 00 size pellets.

We have patterned Hevi Shot’s 9-pellet buckshot load.

We consistently got 6 of the 9 pellets in a 10-inch diameter circle at 40 yards using an extended full and ex full choke.

00 and 000 Buckshot Choke Tubes For Big Game

Deerstroyer™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Deerstroyer™ style of choke tubes especially for 00 and 000 buckshot sizes. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length. For 2016 we have redesigned this choke internally for improved pattern performance. All of the Deerstroyer™ chokes have a nominal .030 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Boar Blaster™ Choke Tubes

The Boar Blaster™ style of choke has a totally new internal design consisting of 5 steps with 6 parallel sections. This design has been tested with numerous loads of 9 and 15 pellet 00 and various 000 shells and has shown an increase in pattern density over conventional conical parallel choke designs with every load we have tested. Made from high strength stainless steel with a black oxide finish and knurled head.

Predator/Varmint Chokes

Our suggestions on chokes are as follows.

Mossberg 835’s and similar .774 bore shotguns .710 exit diameter

Browning Invector Plus and similar .740 bore shotguns .680 exit diameter

Remington and similar .730 bore shotguns .670 exit diameter

Beretta Optima Plus and similar.733 bore shotguns .683 exit diameter

Benelli Crio Plus, Mobil style and similar .725 bore shotguns .665 exit diameter

We suggest the below loads

Hevi-Shot Dead Coyote (T Pellets)

Win Xtended Range HD Coyote (B Pellets)

Number 4 buckshot

In any given shotgun you may find one load patterns tighter than another. You will have to pattern your gun to find the best load.

Predator™ Choke Tubes

At the 2015 SHOT Show we introduced our Predator™ style of choke tubes especially for # 4 buckshot and the large pellet predator tungsten loads. All of these are made in a 4 inch overall length with a longer (3 inch) than normal conical section for less pellet deformation. All of these chokes have a nominal .050 to .060 constriction based on average bore size for each specific model.

Choke Cleaning

Ideally chokes should be cleaned each time the gun is used. Plastic fouling and powder residue will build up in screw in chokes much faster than in fixed choke guns. Powder fouling will also work between the choke and the choke counter bore in the barrel. Remove the choke and clean with a toothbrush using some sort of solvent. We use and suggest Choke Shine as a cleaner. Simply, drop the choke into the solution for a short time and it will come out with the fouling dissolved. Clean the inside of the barrel with a cleaner/lubricant such as Clenzoil making sure the threads do not have any residue, lightly wipe the choke with oil and reassemble.

Remember that rust can occur in the barrel and freeze a choke in place even if the choke is made from stainless steel. Waterfowl hunters should pay particular attention to keeping the choke and barrel clean.

Choke Tightness

Although this seems like a no brainer we believe that there is a proper way to install a choke tube. When changing a choke in the field or at the range, wipe the choke with a clean rag to keep any abrasive from being ground into the threaded area of the choke/barrel. Finger tighten and then use a wrench that properly fits the tube to finish tightening using a moderate amount of pressure. This will help keep the choke from loosening up when in use. When a choke is not properly seated the possibility of the shot charge striking the edge of the choke greatly increases. If this happens a bulged barrel and a ruined choke are almost guaranteed. Most chokes will loosen and back out to some degree if they are left finger tight. A perfectly clean, dry choke installed in a clean, dry barrel and moderately tightened with a wrench should not work loose. Having said that, most shooters are better off to make sure that there is a light coating of oil on the choke before installing as this will help prevent rust in the barrel. All chokes should be checked on a regular basis for tightness.

Prior to doing anything with a choke, be sure the gun is unloaded and the muzzle pointed in a safe direction.

Frozen Chokes

We have pulled frozen chokes in our shop of almost every brand. Normally by the time we get the barrel one or more people have attempted to remove the choke. Did you ever wonder where the saying “Fixed Guns Repaired” came from? This is a problem that can be prevented 99% of the time by simply cleaning the choke/barrel on a regular basis. The number one problem is RUST in the threaded area of the choke/barrel. If you keep this from forming, you generally will not experience any problems. The second problem is choke creep [expansion]. This fortunately is much less of a problem than rust. This is caused normally by using large steel shot in tight chokes [full or tighter]. Follow the manufacturer’s suggestions when using steel shot and the odds are very much in your favor that you will have no problems. If choke creep happens you will notice the choke becoming harder to remove and install and if you continue shooting it will eventually lock itself in the barrel.

If you find yourself with a frozen choke my first suggestion is to take it to a competent gunsmith. Make sure the smith has some experience in this line of work.

The information below is not intended to be all inclusive instructions. If you are not responsible for your own actions do not attempt to use any of the suggestions.

Unload the gun, remove the barrel from the action and soak the muzzle in a can of penetrating oil for several days. Make sure the container has a sufficient amount of oil to completely cover the barrel as deep as the choke is recessed. Use a proper fitting choke wrench and try to work the choke back and forth in small increments. If this does not work try letting it soak several more days. Heat applied to the choke area can be of help. Never get the barrel so hot that you cannot touch it with your hand for several seconds. Do not use a hammer of any kind to try and “tap” it. Soaking and low heat will get most frozen chokes out. Take your time, we have seen a number of barrels ruined because of impatience.

Choke Storage

We suggest that you keep your chokes in a padded case especially designed for them. There are a number of quality cases on the market for under $10.99. The purpose is to keep them from hitting each other or any hard object that could cause burrs or deformation. Chokes are particularly susceptible to denting in the skirt area. We have seen this occur on numerous occasions when chokes stored in plain boxes were dropped. We also urge you to clean all of the chokes that have used when you clean your gun. Alloy steel chokes need a light coat of oil prior to storage and stainless steel keeps its rust resistant properties best when it is free from all contamination.

British Shotgun Choke Tube Constrictions

Choke constrictions in Britain are normally marked using a different method that what we are accustomed to seeing here in the United States. In some cases the same name is used in both countries with an entirely different meaning as to the amount of constriction in the choke.

The below chart gives a comparison between the choke name and the amount of constriction.

Constriction Constriction British US Trulock MM Inches Marking Marking Marking .00 .000 Cylinder Cylinder Cylinder .13 .005 Imp Cyl Skeet Skeet 1 .25 .010 1/4 Imp Cyl Imp Cyl .50 .020 1/2 Modified Modified .75 .030 3/4 Lite Full Full 1.00 .035 Full Full

We have tried to give you a very basic course on chokes and their use. If we can be of any service to you please call us. We will be glad to help with any questions or problems you may have. This will be a constantly evolving paper. If you would like to see any subject discussed concerning chokes or related please let us know.

During the 2006 deer season, Kentucky whitetail hunters returned with a bang to post a near-record harvest of 122,233 animals – just shy of being 10,000 more than the previous season. Following the highest harvest on record in 2004, the 2006 season missed the mark of 124,752 by just 2,500 deer. Hunters obviously found a good deal more success in the Kentucky woodlands last season.

Or else it was time to restock the freezer from the big harvest two years before.

Either way, the numbers certainly show that whitetails in the Bluegrass are alive and well – and plentiful.

Over the past five seasons, harvest numbers had climbed steadily from approximately 115,000 in 2002, to 116,000 in 2003, and then the record season of about 124,000 in 2004.

In 2005, the significant drop in the kill back to 112,000 or so didn’t seem to fit the upward trend. Kentucky Fish and Wildlife Department Resources (KDFWR) deer biologists weren’t sure why the decline occurred. After a record season, the chances of topping it the very next year are normally slim. Yet a reduction of more than 10,000 was somewhat unexpected.

Perhaps the hop up from 2005 to 2006 of about 10,000 animals was likewise a little unusual. With the additional harvest data from 2006 now in hand, it’s certain that the herd remains in excellent shape – and that in 2005, hunters just didn’t take as many deer as they did the year before, when the record was set.

That year, the weather was quite warm early in the season. Perhaps deer didn’t move as much as usual. Or maybe other conditions made hunting tougher than it normally is.

Whatever the reason, 2005 was an off year, though the 2006 season was another story altogether. Hunters got on track and took very nearly the minimum 125,000 deer that KDFWR biologists would like to see harvested each season.

It’s interesting to note that of the 20 counties with the highest density of deer per square mile from last year, only one county within that list changed for this year.

Using harvest numbers versus the number of square miles of habitat as an indicator, Logan County entered the top 20 counties for highest density, while Scott County dropped out. All of the remaining counties listed using 2005 season data stayed on the list after 2006 data was calculated.

Of the top 20 Kentucky counties, eight show a density of 10 deer per square mile, while all the other 12 have better than seven deer per square mile. Note that the counties with the best densities aren’t necessarily the counties with the highest harvests. Counties with less habitat can have a lower harvest, yet rank high in deer per square mile – just because in general, fewer deer are taken from smaller counties.

Statewide, the Commonwealth had 37 counties with a harvest of 1,000 animals or more, eight with over 2,000 and two more with more than 3,000 deer taken. Last year, then, more than a third of Kentucky counties produced harvests of 1,000 deer or better.

Likewise, five other counties on the top 20 deer-density list had fewer than 1,000 taken, but scored very well using that parameter as an measure of herd size.

From all indications, the 2007 season should give hunters the same opportunity to be successful, reach that magic mark and help keep the herd in balance and in check.

Here’s the breakdown by wildlife region of the trends in herd growth throughout Kentucky, and where you can expect to find the highest concentrations of deer this fall.

SOUTHEAST REGION

Last season, if you recall, in Kentucky’s toughest region for deer hunting, one lone county topped the 1,000 deer-per-county harvest minimum we use to help determine the better places to find numbers of whitetails.

Last season, three counties came on strong and made the cut – although interestingly, the county wasn’t one of the three in 2005.

Whitley County had a harvest of over 1,000 animals in 2005, but reported a few less in 2006. But a reported 958 whitetails wasn’t too far off the mark. Likewise, Casey and Cumberland counties also nearly broke the 1,000-mark harvest club. Each had more than 970 deer taken last year.

This indicates that these three counties are knocking on the door of having much improved herd numbers, say, over just five years ago – despite having less-than-ideal habitat for deer to thrive in.

In the Southeast Region last season, top performers were Green County at 1,225, Pulaski County at 1,009 and Adair County at 1,001. You’ll note by looking at the map that these counties, as well as the others mentioned, are not in the heart of the Cumberland Plateau. Rather, they lie on the outskirts of the more mountainous Southeast Region.

That’s a key in locating where more whitetails will potentially be in this neck of the woods. Yet in much of the region, things are starting to blossom nicely, given the Southeast’s overall habitat quality.

Last season, the total number of deer taken in the Southeast Region was 17,770, a significant jump from the previous season. Most of the 29-county region saw a jump in individual county harvests last season. Generally, these counties still register as the lowest in density, or deer per square mile, but numbers do appear to keep climbing slowly.

Several counties in the middle of the pack for this region saw jumps of 50 to 100 more deer harvested last year. Last season, more than 20 counties reported harvests of over 400.

Counties in the region that ranked highest in deer density were Cumberland, Taylor and Adair, all of which are carrying about three deer per square mile of habitat. In this region, Cumberland and Taylor counties – though not among the counties with 1,000 or more deer harvested – are still good spots to find more deer this season.

NORTHEAST REGION

In 2006, the Northeast Region reported more than 16,000 deer taken, which was also an increase over the previous season. In terms of harvest, the better counties remained the same as the previous season. Once again, Bracken County is tops in the Northeast in terms of highest deer density, holding 7.66 deer per square mile. But Boyd and Robertson counties are barking at Bracken’s heels, with six deer per square

mile – give or take.

The biggest harvest numbers from last year were posted in Lawrence, with more than 1,500 being taken. In this region, Bracken (with 1,450), Carter (1,427), Lewis (1,303) and Greenup (1,220) all posted high deer densities, at almost four deer per square mile.

Lewis comes in just shy of three deer per square mile, and Carter and Lawrence fall in between the highs and lows out of this bunch.

In this region, the top five counties all saw good increases in harvest over the previous year, a sign of the excellent 2006 season throughout Kentucky. They’ll likely top the 1,000 mark again this season, and perhaps be joined Morgan or Boyd counties, which narrowly missed the list last year. Both counties had takes well over 900 in 2006.

Counties in the Northeast Region continue to be generally managed under a four-deer season limit. In some cases, only two of those four may be taken with a firearm. This restriction cuts down on the number of antlerless deer being taken, given that most hunters are going to hold out to take their one buck with a gun.

In fact, a majority of hunters take only one deer anyway, often taking a doe late in the season when if no buck can be found.

Counties with some of the lowest harvests and densities in the region are Martin, Montgomery, Magoffin, Menifee and Floyd. Although deer are present, hunting these counties will be no doubt tougher. For their best chance of success, hunters in these counties will need to scout for pockets of higher deer numbers.

Generally, counties like these remain under a stricter management approach, trying to maximize herd growth in the shortest amount of time. During some periods of the season, that may mean no hunting of antlerless deer with a firearm, so be sure and check seasonal regulations for all the details.

BLUEGRASS REGION

During the 2006 deer season, both the Bluegrass and Green River regions placed 16 counties apiece in the 1,000-harvest club. But overall, the Bluegrass Region was responsible for adding about 3,000 more animals to the total statewide harvest than was the Green River Region. These two counties are tops in Kentucky for producing large numbers of white-tailed deer. Both contain the best habitat and receive the most hunting pressure, which adds up to higher harvests. Bluegrass Region hunters took more than 36,500 deer in their 31-county area of central and north-central Kentucky.

The Bluegrass Region is where hunters will find the most generally liberal gun-hunting season. A large number of counties open to a 16-day modern gun season, for either sex of deer the entire time.

Most counties also offer unlimited doe harvest – a reflection of how well a county’s herd is doing.

A majority of the counties (16, to be exact) on the top 20 deer-density list are located in the Bluegrass Region. Ironically, that region also carries some counties such as Bourbon, Fayette and Jessamine that lie right at the bottom of the list. They offer extremely limited habitat, compared to other more rural counties in this region.

Outside the top spot, Bluegrass Region counties occupy all the rest of the first 10 slots for highest numbers of deer per square mile. Statistics for Boone, Shelby, Owen and Gallatin counties are right at or above the 12-deer-per-square-mile mark, while Anderson, Campbell, Spencer, Henry and Pendleton all offer nine to 10 deer per square mile.

When I can see ramp leaves starting to turn yellow in sunny areas, I know it’s time to grab some leaves to dehydrate for cooking. This rub made from ramp leaves is one of my favorite foraged seasoning blends and is great with vegetables, chicken and pork.

Dried ramp leaves are more gently than either dried onions or garlic, and come along with a bonus: that special rampy flavor you can’t buy in a store. I’ve ended up running out of leaves for the past few years in a row, so this year I made darn sure to get a lot-easy to do since they’re on my girlfriends farm.

After a few days of rotating the dehydrator trays, I had a good gallon jar or so of lightly crumbled ramp leaves-crumbled enough for storage, but not ground to a powder which will eventually lose some (but not all) of it’s flavor if it sits at room temperature.

There’s a lot of things you can do with dried ramp leaves, one of my favorites is to simply put them in broth, but they’re so much more. I’ve always wanted to make a sort of all-purpose dried ramp leaf rub / seasoning recipe that I could use with meat and vegetables though, and with plenty of dried leaves around, it was time.

Now dried ramp leaves are delicious, but too many of them can come off as a bit swampy, if that makes any sense. balance in all things. But how much balance? After a few versions, I decided to cut the ramp leaves 50% with other seasonings.

By comparison, using 50% garlic or onion powder in a rub would be offensively oniony, dried ramp leaves, on the other hand, are more delicate, and can be used with a heavier hand.

The spices here I specifically chose with the ramps flavor profile in mind. Carrot family seasonings are great here since they can easily coexist with the ramps without taking over, like cinnamon or cloves might.

Coriander was the first one I reached for, since the brightness gives a needed lift to the woodsy-ness. Cumin is another great partner, that, while strong in itself, can add a good undertone that the ramps love (another simple rub is just cumin, pepper and dried ramp leaves).

Finally, a healthy dose of fresh ground black pepper adds some warmth that won’t overpower things, and a smaller amount of paprika adds a little color and increases the affinity of the rub for contacting hot oil.

That being said, this rub is just a beginning, not an end. I really encourage you to try out my batch first, but afterwords, depending on what you’re making, there’s some other great additions you might add to the basic recipe. Here’s a few examples:

Additions to make the rub your own

• Adding lightly toasted sesame seeds can give a nice combination of flavor, similar to zaatar.
• Dried oregano or even better, dried monarda fistulosa can also work well here.
• If you want to use the rub with fish, increase the coriander and decrease the black pepper by half.
• Substitute ground sumac for paprika

How to use

• Use as a generous rub for pork and beef. Use a lighter hand for chicken or fish.
• It’s great to rub on smoked meat. For the best crust, season the meat with salt, then rub with the ramp rub and allow to rest overnight before smoking. Same goes for braising.
• As a sprinkle. Think freshly cooked rice, steamed vegetables, etc.
• In soups. Use a light hand here since there’s a good amount of black pepper that can make soup spicy.

More

Ramps: Harvesting, Sustainability, Cooking and Recipes

The 30 Carbine and 223 Remington are two centerfire rifle rounds that both served the U.S. military in major overseas conflicts. Although the 30 Carbine and 223 Rem represent cartridges from two different eras, both have seen varying levels of success in the civilian market.

The 30 Carbine was introduced during WWII and served through the Korean War while the 223 Remington was introduced in Vietnam and remains the primary frontline cartridge for all branches of the American military to this day.

Although the 223 Remington fires a lighter bullet than the 30 Carbine, the 223 is superior to the 30 in all ballistic categories and is a perfect example of the advancements in rifle cartridge technology during the 20th Century.

In this article, we will evaluate the 30 Carbine vs.223 to help you understand the differences between the two and give you a clearer understanding of which cartridge is best for your shooting and big game hunting needs.

What is the difference between the 30 Carbine and the 223?

The difference between 30 Carbine vs 223 Remington is that the 30 Carbine round fires a heavier 30-caliber bullet while the 223 Rem fires a lighter 0.224” diameter bullet. Furthermore, the 223 is a more powerful modern bottle-necked cartridge while the 30 Carbine is less powerful and utilizes an older slightly tapered straight-wall cartridge design.

A Note on Nomenclature

Please note that within this article we will refer to the 223 Remington (223 Rem) and the 5.56x45mm NATO round interchangeably. There are differences between the two and you can read about them in this article: .223 vs 5.56

In short, a 223 Rem can safely be fired from a rifle or handgun chambered in 5.56, however the opposite is not true.

Cartridge Specs

When evaluating centerfire cartridges, it’s a good idea to analyze the cartridge specs to gain more knowledge of each.

Prior to America’s entrance into WWII, the U.S. Army wanted to provide support and mortar crews with a cartridge that was “more than a handgun but less than a rifle”. For these crews, carrying the heavier M1 Garand was inconvenient but they wanted more range and stopping power than the Thompson submachine gun or M1911 handgun chambered in 45 ACP could offer.

The resulting rifle was the M1 Carbine, which is essentially a scaled-down version of the M1 Garand and converted to use 15 or 30 round magazines. The 30 Carbine round was developed by necking down the 32 Winchester Self-Loading cartridge to fire a 0.308” diameter, 110 grain full metal jacket (FMJ) bullet.

The project was deemed a success and the M1 Carbine firing the 30 Carbine round was released in 1942 and served all branches of the U.S. military during WWII through the Korean War.

In contrast, development of the 223 Remington began in 1957 and the final design was submitted by Remington Arms to the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) in 1962.

The development of the 223 Remington cartridge was a joint operation organized by the U.S. Continental Army Command between Fairchild Industries, Remington Arms, and Eugene Stoner of Armalite, using the 222 Remington as a parent cartridge.

The 223 Remington was chambered in the military’s new M16 assault rifle and later M4 Carbine and remains one of the most popular civilian cartridges chambered in the AR-15 semi-automatic sporting rifle.

Looking at these two rounds side-by-side, some of the differences are painfully obvious. The 223 Remington towers over the 30 Carbine by over a half an inch, as the 223 has a case length of 1.76” compared to 1.29” for the 30. In terms of overall length, the 223 Rem measures 2.26” long compared to 1.68” for the 30.

In terms of cartridge design, the 223 Remington utilizes a bottlenecked cartridge while the 30 Carbine was designed using a slightly tapered straight-walled cartridge.

Another major difference is the bullet diameter each cartridge fires. The 223 Rem fires 0.224” diameter bullets while the 30 Carbine fires a 0.308” diameter bullet.

The 223 Rem can fire a wide range of bullet weights, typically between 30 and 90 grains with the 50 gr, 55 gr and 62 gr factory loads being the most popular. In contrast, the 30 Carbine was designed to fire a 110 grain FMJ but can fire bullets as light as 85 grains and as heavy as 130 grains. Most factory ammo for 30 Carbine is loaded with 100 grain or 110 grain bullets.

One of the main reasons the 223 has a ballistic advantage over the 30 Carbine is that the 223 Rem has nearly 50% more case capacity than the 30. Capable of handling 31.4 gr of propellant, the 223’s case capacity dwarfs that of the 30 Carbine that can house 21 grains of powder.

With the added case capacity, the 223 Rem also is capable of handling significantly higher chamber pressures than that of the 30 Carbine. With a SAAMI spec 55,000 psi, the 223 has almost a 30% advantage over the 30 at 40,000 psi.

Recoil

Recoil is an important consideration when purchasing a new rifle as a round with heavy recoil will be more difficult to control and will slow your rate of follow up shots. The potential for flinching is also an issue for cartridges with heavy recoil.

Felt recoil will differ from shooter to shooter and is often dependent on firearm choice, stance, and your chosen factory ammo or handloads. However, free recoil is a more objective measure of how hard a cartridge hits based on firearm weight, muzzle velocity, powder charge, and bullet weight.

To compare the 30 Carbine vs 223 in terms of recoil we’ve selected the gold standard load for each cartridge. For the 30 Carbine we will consider the WWII M1 110 gr FMJ 1,990 fps military load and the M193 55 gr FMJ 3,200 fps military load for 223 Rem.

The firearms for this comparison will be a standard M1 Inland Carbine weighing 5.2 lbs and a standard AR-15 weighing 7 lbs for the 223.

Given these criteria, the 30 Carbine will have a free recoil energy of 5 ft-lbs compared to 4.25 ft-lbs for 223.

Although the 223 has a higher powder charge and muzzle velocity, its low bullet weight and heavier firearm help tame the already manageable recoil of the cartridge. On the other hand, the 30 has double the bullet weight and a lighter host firearm, which results is slightly higher recoil.

This is not to say that the 30 Carbine has oppressive recoil, quite the opposite actually, as most shooters would classify the 30 as having extremely low recoil. Both rifles are extremely easy to handle, a joy to shoot, and you can spend a whole afternoon plinking with either and not have a sore shoulder the next morning.

Although the 30 technically has higher recoil, both most shooters would describe both rounds as having low recoil and are excellent options for training new shooters on centerfire ammunition.

Muzzle Velocity, Kinetic Energy, and Trajectory

Previously I mentioned that the 223 Remington outperformed the 30 Carbine in terms of ballistics, but how big of a difference is it?

In this section, we will compare four popular factory loads for both cartridges.

For the 223 Remington, we will consider a Winchester 55 gr FMJ boat tail M193-clone as well as a Federal Fusion MSR 62 grain bonded Spitzer boat tail. For 30 Carbine, the M1 110 gr FMJ round nose military load will be compared with the Buffalo Bore 125 grain hard cast flat nose (FN) round.

When it comes to muzzle velocity there is simply no contest as the 223 Rem leaves the 30 Carbine eating its dust. At the muzzle, the M193 55 gr FMJ load for 223 held the highest velocity at 3,240 fps while the 62 gr Fusion came in second at 2,750 fps. The 30 Carbine rounds were the slowest at the muzzle, with the Buffalo Bore 125 gr lead FN clocking in at 2,100 fps while the M1 round was the slowest at 1,990 fps.

Not only is the 223 Rem faster at the muzzle, but it also conserves its velocity more effectively than the 30 Carbine. Both 223 factory loads were still supersonic at 500 yards, while the 30 carbine loads had gone subsonic between 200 and 250 yards.

Staying above the speed of sounds (1,125 fps) helps maintain a bullet’s trajectory, as it allows gravity less time to affect the flight path.

Speaking of trajectory, the 223 Rem simply slaughters the 30 when it comes to bullet drop. At all ranges 200 yards and above, the 223 Remington had less bullet drop than the 30. This is primarily due to the aforementioned supersonic limit of the 30 Carbine.

At 500 yards, the 30 Carbine loads had over three times the bullet drop of both 223 Remington rounds. This makes the 223 Rem a more accurate long range shooting cartridge with over double the effective range of the 30 Carbine.

One of the major critiques of the 30-caliber Carbine was its lack of stopping power. The 223 Remington/5.56 NATO has also had this critique leveled against it based on combat reports from Afghanistan and Iraq.

The 223 Rem has more foot pounds of kinetic energy at the muzzle and conserves its energy more efficiently downrange for both military loads. The M193 223 load has 1,282 ft-lbs of muzzle energy while the M1 110 gr FMJ 30 Carbine rounds has 967 ft-lbs.

The Buffalo Bore load for the 30 Carbine closes the gap in terms of kinetic energy, as it has 1,224 ft-lbs at the muzzle. This load was included in our comparison to showcase the highest levels of performance the 30 Carbine is capable of.

However, the 223 Rem’s efficient bullet design really shines at longer ranges, as it has nearly double the kinetic energy of the 30 rounds at 500 yards.

So, what conclusions can we draw from these results?

The 223 Remington is clearly the more effective long range cartridge. With higher muzzle velocity and a flatter trajectory, the 223 performs best for longer distance shots.

The bullet design of the 30 Carbine doesn’t do it any favors, as it hemorrhages velocity and kinetic energy at range. However, it has two times the bullet weight and leaves a considerably bigger hole than the diminutive 0.224” diameter 223 bullets.

This allows the 30 Carbine to be extremely effective in short-range engagements but is ill-suited for long range shots. The 30 has nearly double the kinetic energy of a mild 357 Magnum load or 45 ACP at the muzzle, so the military was successful at making a round that’s “more than a pistol but less than a rifle”.

Ballistic Coefficient and Sectional Density

Ballistic coefficient (BC) is a measure of how aerodynamic a bullet is and how well it will resist wind drift. Sectional density (SD) is a way to evaluate the penetration ability of a bullet based on its external dimensions, design, and weight.

The 223 Remington continues its dominance in ballistic coefficient thanks to its Spitzer boat tail bullet design.

The Winchester M193 223 factory ammo has a listed BC of 0.255 while the Federal Fusion load has an impressive 0.310 BC. In contrast, the 30 Carbine loads have considerably lower BC at 0.166 for the 110 gr FMJ and 0.126 for the 125 gr lead flat point from Buffalo Bore.

To put it simply, the 30 bullets are short, fat, not aerodynamic at all. On the other hand, the bullets fired by the 223 are considerably sleeker, resisting wind drift and air resistance more efficiently.

For sectional density, the 30 and 223 are relatively equivalent with the 30 having slightly higher SD for the 110 gr FMJ at 0.166 compared to 0.155 for the M193 load for 223. Sectional Density data was not immediately available for the Federal Fusion MSR or Buffalo Bore loads.

Although the 30 Carbine has a slight advantage in penetration over the 223, it is unlikely that most hunters or game animals will be able to tell the difference between them.

Hunting

The 223 Remington is one of the most popular varmint hunting cartridges in North America. A 223 long gun with a decent scope makes for a potent ground hog or coyote slaying machine, as it has incredibly low recoil and a flat trajectory.

The 30 Carbine also makes for a decent varmint cartridge for short-range shots. Although the trajectory of the 30 Carbine cartridge starts to resemble a rainbow at long range, there is something nostalgic about taking your Inland Carbine out into the woods for a little coyote hunting.

But what about whitetail?

The use of either cartridge for deer is a hotly debated issue at deer camps and hunting forums across the world.

The 30 Carbine has been used effectively for deer hunting since its introduction, however standard pressure ammo lacks the 1,000 ft-lbs of kinetic energy typically cited as required for whitetail. This goes to show that shot placement and selecting a quality hollow point or soft point bullet is more important than overall kinetic energy.

Furthermore, some hunters in states that allow the use of 223 Remington for deer hunting report good success with heavier 69+ grain bullets like the Hornady 73 gr FTX. However, many states prohibit the use of 0.224” diameter bullets for deer hunting.

Although both rounds can fell a whitetail with high-power loads and proper bullet selection, neither make for a good deer cartridge.

If we had to pick one, our choice would be the 223 Remington with a proper 69+ grain hunting bullet. However, 12 gauge shotgun slugs or a properly loaded 308 Winchester will make for better deer medicine than a 223 or 30 Caliber Carbine.

Ammo and Rifle Cost/Availability

The 223 Remington cannot be beat for ammo availability, price, and rifle options.

As one of the most popular centerfire cartridges in North America, the 223 Rem has numerous factory loads available for virtually any shooting application your heart desires.

Military surplus ammo is relatively easy to find and buying bulk 223 ammo can really help keep your overall cost per round to a minimum. The 223 has become so popular that ammo manufacturers have now started offering self-defense ammo such as Speer Gold Dots, Winchester PDX-1, and Hornady Critical Defense to cover all your home defense needs.

In contrast, 30 Carbine ammo is not nearly as popular as it was after WWII. Finding surplus 30 Carbine ammo is akin to finding a needle in a haystack and is considerably more expensive than it was after the war.

Modern ammo manufacturers like Remington, Hornady, Sellier & Bellot, and Winchester still make 30 Carbine ammo, but it much lower quantities than other ammo (like 223, for example). There are limited hunting ammo varieties available for 30 Carbine, traditional soft point and hollow point ammo can be had, but most 30 Carbine rounds will be loaded with FMJ’s.

In terms of cost, cheap plinking ammo can be had for around $0.60/round while premium hunting ammo ranges between $1.50-$3/round for 223. In contrast, 30 Carbine FMJ ammo will typically cost you about $1/round while self-defense or hunting ammo usually costs around $2 for each pull of the trigger.

Considering the 223 Remington can be fired from the most popular firearm in in United States, the semi-automatic AR-15, it cannot be beat in terms of rifle availability.

However, if you are not an AR-15 person there are still multiple options available to you. If you prefer a bolt-action rifle for some long range target shooting or varmint hunting, virtually every firearm manufacturer has at least one rifle chambered in 223.

For semi-auto options, the Ruger Mini-14 is perhaps the second most popular semi-automatic rifle for 223. The AK-platform has also been modified to fire 223/5.56 NATO and there are many other popular rifles chambered in the cartridge such as the Kel-Tec RDB, IWI Tavor, Steyr AUG, Galil, and many others.

In terms of AR-15’s, the sky is the limit as all the manufacturers from Anderson to Colt offer at least one rifle chambered in 223.

Pretty much the only type of rifle not chambered in 223 is a lever-action, as the rimless design and pointed bullets don’t play well with tubular magazines.

For the 30 Carbine, your rifle options are somewhat limited to the M1 Carbine.

However, these rifles vary in price considerably depending on their date and company of manufacture. Older WWII era rifles from Winchester, Rock-OLA, or IBM will fetch a premium, while newer production rifles from Auto Ordinance, Iver Johnson, Universal, or Inland can be had for a more reasonable price.

The 30 Carbine has also been adapted to several handguns, most notably the Ruger Blackhawk. The Taurus Raging Bull and AMT AutoMag III were also chambered in 30 Carbine, however these handguns have been discontinued and used models fetch a high price on the used market.

Reloading

Reloading is one method shooters use to reduce their overall cost per round and increase the consistency and accuracy of their ammo. Furthermore, handloads can be tailored to your rifle to meet your specific shooting needs.

Handloaders have been reloading 223 brass for decades at this point, meaning that there is load data available for virtually every bullet and powder combination that makes sense. In the same vein, 30 Carbine load data has been well flushed out and there are plenty of options available.

In terms of bullets, 0.224” diameter bullets are essentially a dime a dozen and extremely simple to find. Military surplus pulled bullets can be had for loading bulk 223 ammo at a low cost per round or you can load precision rounds for matches. Hunting bullets are also extremely inexpensive for 223 and made by reputable companies like Hornady, Berger, Barnes, Nosler, Sierra, and Federal.

If there’s one caliber that’s synonymous with “America” it must be the 0.308” diameter bullet. However, the bullets fired by the 30 Carbine are not as popular as those used by rounds like the 308 Winchester or 30-06 Springfield.

Due to its chamber design, the 30 Carbine cannot utilize Spitzer-style boat tail bullets like most 30-caliber cartridges. This means the 30 Carbine cartridge has to be loaded with round nose bullets that are more popular with lever-action rounds like the 30-30 Winchester.

Finding once-fired brass for 223 is an incredibly simple task as you can often find it lying on the ground at most ranges (just ask the shooter if you can have their brass before picking it up). For the 30, finding brass is a bit more difficult as it’s not as popular of a cartridge as it once was. Factory new brass can be had from companies like Winchester and Starline, while used brass is still available on the secondary market.

Final Shots: 223 vs 30 Carbine

The 223 Remington and 30 Carbine are two military cartridges that hail from two different eras of cartridge development.

The 30 Carbine is a product of the World War I and II era that brought us the 45 ACP, the 30-06 Springfield, and the 50 BMG. It is a round that filled a specific role for support soldiers who needed a lighter weapon for close-range combat.

By modern cartridge standards, the 30 is an anemic round that lacks the stopping power for whitetail deer and is best reserved for varmint hunting or plinking with an old M1 Carbine.

The 223 Remington is a modern cartridge that signaled a change in U.S. military combat policy. It’s an intermediate round that was built for low recoil, a flat trajectory, and be light enough so that soldiers could carry a lot of ammo into battle.

In the civilian sphere, the 223 is one of America’s beloved cartridges that is fired by the AR-15 carbine and is consistently in the top 3 cartridges sold in North America. It’s a versatile round that is the gold-standard for varmint hunting as well as target shooting and general plinking.

Although there is no denying the nostalgia factor of the 30 Carbine, our choice is the 223 Remington. It offers better ballistics with lower recoil and is less expensive to shoot.

No matter which cartridge you choose, make sure you stock up on ammunition here at Ammo.com and I’ll see you on the range!