Self-defense is a crucial skill that everyone should possess. In today’s world, it’s important to be prepared for any situation, especially when it comes to protecting oneself. One way to do this is by carrying a self-defense tool, such as a flashlight. But how many lumens are needed to temporarily blind an attacker?

While there is no exact answer to this question, it’s important to understand the basics of how a flashlight can be used for self-defense.

The bright light emitted from a flashlight can baffle an attacker, giving the victim time to escape or defend themselves. However, not all flashlights are created equal, and the number of lumens needed to blind an attacker can vary based on several factors.

What are Lumens?

Lumens are a measure of the total amount of light that a bulb or flashlight emits. It is a unit of measurement for the brightness of a light source. The higher the number of lumens, the brighter the light will be.

Remember that,

Lumens are not the same as watts, which measure the energy a light source uses. A higher wattage bulb does not necessarily mean a brighter light. Lumens are a more accurate measure of brightness.

For self-defense purposes, the number of lumens in a flashlight is important. A flashlight with a high number of lumens can temporarily blind an intruder, giving you time to escape or defend yourself.

However, it is important to note that a high number of lumens does not necessarily mean a better flashlight for self-defense. There are other factors to consider, such as the size and weight of the flashlight, the battery life, and the beam distance.

Using a flashlight with the appropriate number of lumens for your intended purpose is also important. A flashlight with too few lumens may not provide enough light to see in a dark environment, while a flashlight with too many lumens may be too bright and cause temporary blindness to yourself or others.

When choosing a flashlight for self-defense, it is recommended to select one with at least 1000 lumens. This is enough to temporarily blind an attacker and give you time to escape or defend yourself. However, it is also important to consider the other factors mentioned above.

Factors That Affect the Blinding Effect of Lumens

The blinding effect of a flashlight depends on several factors, including the brightness of the light, the distance between the light and the attacker, and the angle at which the light hits the attacker’s eyes.

Generally, the closer the attacker is to the light source, the fewer lumens you need to achieve the blinding effect. However, if the attacker is too close, the light may also be too bright for you, making it difficult to see and aim.

The angle at which the light hits the attacker’s eyes is also important. If the light is shining directly into the attacker’s eyes, it will be more effective than if it is shining at an angle.

How Many Lumens Can Temporarily Blind an Attacker?

The answer depends on the situation, but most experts recommend using a flashlight with at least 300 lumens.

This brightness level is typically enough to cause temporary blindness, especially if the attacker is within a few feet of the light source. However, it’s important to remember that the blinding effect may not work on all attackers, especially those under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

It’s also worth noting that a flashlight with too many lumens can be just as ineffective as one with too few. If the light is too bright, it can cause glare and reflection, making it difficult to see and aim.

Overall, a flashlight with around 300 lumens is a good starting point for self-defense. However, it’s also important to consider other factors, such as the size and weight of the flashlight, its battery life, and durability.

Remember, a bright flashlight can be a valuable tool in self-defense, but it’s important to use it responsibly and effectively.

Proper Use of Flashlights for Self-Defense

When using a flashlight for self-defense, it’s important to understand how to use it to maximize its effectiveness properly. Here are a few tips:

• Hold the flashlight in your non-dominant hand so your dominant hand is free to defend yourself if needed.
• Use a flashlight with a strobe setting to disorient an attacker.
• Shine the light directly into the attacker’s eyes to temporarily blind them.
• Be aware of your surroundings and use the flashlight to scan the area for potential threats.

Remember, a flashlight is not a weapon and should only be used for self-defense as a last resort. Always try to de-escalate a situation and avoid confrontation if possible.

Relevant: Strobe flashlight vs. regular flashlight.

Alternative Self-Defense Tools

While flashlights can be an effective self-defense tool, there are other options to consider as well. Here are a few alternative self-defense tools:

It’s important to research and understand the proper use of any self-defense tool before relying on it in a dangerous situation. Remember, the goal of self-defense is to protect yourself and escape unharmed, not to cause harm to others.

By staying aware of your surroundings and being prepared for potential threats, you can increase your chances of staying safe in dangerous situations.

Is 1000 Lumens Too Bright for Home Defense?

When it comes to self-defense, having a bright flashlight can be an effective tool to disorient an attacker and give you time to escape or defend yourself. But how bright is too bright?

First, let’s define what a lumen is. A lumen is a unit of measurement for the amount of light emitted by a source. The higher the number of lumens, the brighter the light. A typical flashlight may have around 100-300 lumens, while some tactical flashlights can have up to 1000 lumens or more.

1000 Lumens for Home Defense: Too Bright or Not?

It depends on the situation. In a small, enclosed space like a bedroom or hallway, a flashlight with 1000 lumens may be too bright and could potentially blind you as well as the attacker.

However, in a larger space like a backyard or parking lot, a brighter flashlight could be more effective in disorienting an attacker and giving you time to react. It’s also important to consider the beam pattern of the flashlight.

A flashlight with a narrow beam may be more effective in blinding an attacker, while a wider beam may be better for illuminating a larger area.

In conclusion, while 1000 lumens may be too bright for some situations, it can be effective in self-defense when used appropriately. It’s important to choose a flashlight that fits your needs and preferences and practice using it in different scenarios to ensure you are prepared in an emergency.

How many lumens can permanently blind you?

The human eye can only handle a certain amount of light before it becomes damaged. According to the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), the maximum permissible exposure (MPE) for a flashlight is 2,500 lumens for a duration of 0.25 seconds. Anything above this level can cause permanent eye damage.

Note that:

MPE is based on a single exposure and does not consider repeated exposure over time. This means that even a flashlight with a lower lumen output can cause permanent eye damage if it is repeatedly shone directly into someone’s eyes.

In addition to the lumen output, the beam pattern of the flashlight can also play a role in causing permanent eye damage. A flashlight with a narrow beam pattern can focus the light into a smaller area, increasing the intensity of the light and potentially causing more damage.

In conclusion, use it responsibly and be aware of the potential for permanent eye damage. Always aim the flashlight away from someone’s face and use it only when necessary.

By Gary Koehler

One of the most common mistakes amateur retriever trainers make is rushing the learning process. The temptation to get a young dog out in the field as soon as possible can be hard to resist. Born with an innate retrieving drive, the pup is already raring to go. And with hunting season only months away, you may be just as eager to start running retrieving drills.

Before you jump headlong into field work, however, make sure your dog has mastered the fundamentals of obedience. Be patient and take it slow. There are no shortcuts. To be able to perform advanced tasks, a retriever must first learn to follow basic commands. Repetition and consistency are the only sure ways to build understanding and trust.

Here’s a brief primer on 6 basic commands that will help set the stage for your retriever’s future training and hunting success:

1. Here

Some trainers use the word come instead. Whatever word you use, your dog must learn that this is an unconditional command, not a request. Get a 20- or 30-foot check cord and attach one end to your pup’s collar. Hold the other end in your hand and walk several paces away from the dog. Say the command here. If the dog does not move in your direction, begin pulling him toward you with the check cord. Be firm but not rough. Repeat this exercise several times until the dog learns to come to you without hesitation. Remove the check cord and repeat the exercise again. Praise the pup when he does well to help make this lesson as much fun as possible.

2. Sit

This command can be incorporated into your pup’s feeding regimen. Hold the food bowl in one hand and say sit while pushing down on the dog’s rear end with your other hand. When the dog sits, place the bowl in front of him on the floor. The pup will quickly learn that the reward for sitting is food, which is a great motivator.

3. Stay

You can teach stay as an extension of the sit command. While the dog is sitting, hold your hand out toward him with your palm facing outward and say stay. Walk away, wait a minute, then call the pup to you. Gradually extend the length of time the dog remains in the sitting position. If the pup breaks and runs to you without being called, take him back to the spot where he was originally sitting and start the lesson over again. Never allow your dog to think that staying put is optional. He should remain in place until released.

4. Kennel

This lesson is easy. When putting your pup in his crate, simply say kennel. Once the dog learns to associate this word with entering the friendly confines of his kennel, you can use it when loading him into a vehicle, boat, dog hide, blind, and other such places. The key is to make the crate as attractive as possible from the get-go. You can do this by placing a blanket and a treat inside to entice your puppy to enter it.

5. Heel

Your retriever should be trained to walk at your pace and not drag you down the street. That’s the purpose of the heel command. Begin walking with your pup on a lead. He should always be on your left side. When he quickens his pace and pulls ahead, say heel and pull him back toward you with the lead. Repeat this lesson each time he moves ahead of you. If you stop walking, your dog should stop and sit down beside you.

6. No

This command should be used to discourage undesirable behaviors such as chewing on furniture, jumping on people, messing in the house, and similar indiscretions. Be sure to say it loudly and emphatically. Your dog should not have any doubt about what you mean when you say no.

For more retriever tips, visit ducks.org/retrievers.

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Have you ever wondered how a flash hider actually works, or what’s inside a suppressor? Confused about the difference between a brake and a compensator? Or maybe you’re just curious which muzzle device will help you shave a second or two off of your competition time – whatever the case may be, you’re in luck, because we’re doing a deep dive on the different types of muzzle devices and exploring the pros and cons of each one.

Flash Hider

While the name is fairly self-explanatory, the science behind flash hiders (also known as flash suppressors) is more complicated than you might think.

When a bullet is fired from a typical long-barreled rifle, most of the propellant is burned before the bullet exits the barrel. But with a shorter barrel, where there isn’t enough time for the powder to be fully consumed, the result is an almost instantaneous two-stage muzzle flash – the primary flash is caused by super-heated propellant gases trailing behind the bullet, and the secondary flash is caused by residual gases that ignite after being exposed to oxygen in the air, creating the infamous “fireball” that you’ve probably encountered if you’ve ever fired an SBR or shot a firearm without a flash hider (especially at night).

This created an obvious problem as militaries around the world began shifting towards shorter, more maneuverable carbines – while increased muzzle flash also made the shooter a more visible target, the bigger problem was that it significantly impacted the shooter’s vision during night-time engagements, and in extreme cases could even cause temporary blindness.

One of the earliest examples of a flash hider can be seen with the clamp-on conical flash suppressors used on Lee-Enfield Jungle Carbines in the later years of World War II, but the example that most shooters are probably familiar with is the A2 “bird cage” flash hider that comes standard on most AR-pattern rifles. But how does it actually work? The answer is that the holes or gaps in the flash hider divert the super-heated gases from the primary flash, while also minimizing oxygen flow and rapidly cooling the residual gases to reduce or eliminate the secondary fireball effect.

If you’re shooting a carbine or short-barreled rifle, often shoot at night, or frequently use cartridges that either require large powder charges or the use of slower-burning powder, a flash hider is going to be your best friend.

Muzzle Brake

When you fire a gun, the energy created by expanding gases is used to propel the bullet forward. And if we recall Newton’s Third Law of Motion, that means the same energy is exerted in the opposite direction, resulting in what we feel as recoil. In order to reduce that recoil, those gases need to be redirected – and that’s exactly what a muzzle brake is for.

While brakes were first invented to tame the recoil of artillery and vehicle-mounted gun systems, they eventually made their way over to the world of small arms as well. They became especially useful for reducing the recoil impulse of large-bore rifles and anti-materiel weapons, often cutting the felt recoil by as much as 50%.

In simple terms, a brake works by redirecting gases backward, typically at a 45-degree angle to the shooter. In effect, this “pulls” the weapon forward, counteracting recoil. Some muzzle brakes also come with one or more expansion chambers cut into them, which help to bleed off escaping gasses and reduce their momentum, further reducing recoil.

So who needs a muzzle brake? Typically, anyone who is shooting big-bore firearms with otherwise unmanageable recoil, though they are also popular among many medium-bore hunters who may have to fire from awkward positions or who want to be able to spot their hits at longer distances. They are also a common choice for shooters putting together lightweight rifle builds, since the reduced mass makes recoil more noticeable and there are many muzzle brakes constructed of lightweight aluminum or polymer that add negligible weight.

As with all muzzle devices, there are some trade-offs: the gasses diverted by a muzzle brake are still moving very quickly, increasing the perceived decibel level and concussive force of each shot for anyone who is in their path. If you’ve ever had the privilege of going to an indoor range and ending up next to someone running a brake, you know just how unpleasant it can be. Those gasses can also kick up dust and debris if you’re shooting from a prone position, which is something to keep in mind for those who live in drier climates.

Compensator

While some will argue that a compensator is just another type of muzzle brake, they perform a specific enough role to merit their own separate discussion. Whereas a muzzle brake is intended to lessen felt recoil, a compensator is intended to reduce muzzle climb (also known as muzzle flip). To accomplish that, there are two basic compensator designs: linear and radial.

A linear compensator redirects gas in a straight line forward of the shooter, reducing some of the noise and concussive force of the muzzle blast and making the firearm more comfortable to fire for the user and anyone standing nearby. Because they reduce muzzle climb less than a radial compensator, linear compensators are typically seen on short-barreled rifles or AR pistols, where recoil management is less of an issue than the decibel level and shockwaves generated by each shot.

A radial compensator usually (but not always) vents gases at a 90-degree angle to the shooter, and can often be identified by the holes, or “ports,” cut into it. Because each compensator must be specifically designed to suit the shooting platform it is intended for, there are naturally some unusual designs floating around, as well; the most famous example is probably the iconic AKM “slant brake,” which actually isn’t a brake at all – it is an aggressively angled compensator that is canted roughly 22 degrees off center to the muzzle in order to counteract the natural up-and-to-the-right recoil pattern of the AKM when fired by a right-handed shooter.

While compensators are great at what they do, and are a frequent mainstay of competitive events that require the shooter to deliver fast follow-up shots, there are a few things to keep in mind. Like muzzle brakes, most radial compensators will make even a relatively soft-shooting cartridge painful for everyone else around you, and the ported holes effectively shortens your barrel length, resulting in some loss of velocity. As well, linear compensators can create a very small amount of turbulence at the muzzle crown due to some of the gases actually being pushed out of the barrel faster than the bullet – for the vast majority of shooters, this effect will be unnoticeable, but those who are interested in extreme long-range shooting or precision benchrest shooting will likely want to look elsewhere.

Suppressor

First things first: No, “silencers” aren’t really silent. Suppressors reduce a firearm’s muzzle report by reducing the speed and pressure of the gas created when a cartridge is fired, and while the effect can be significant, it’s not as dramatic as Hollywood would have you believe.

Suppressors work by using a series of sound baffles to create a sort of “maze” for the gases to navigate, causing them to slow down and cool off enough to reduce the sound of the gunshot. These baffles are usually made of a lightweight metal such as titanium or aluminum, though a few manufacturers have successfully used plastic baffles for .22 LR suppressors. These baffles can either be machined out of a single piece of metal, in which case they are called a “monolithic core” suppressor, or they can be manufactured in multiple pieces and combined in a “baffle stack” suppressor.

Generally speaking, a monolithic core suppressor will be less expensive, easier to clean, and less prone to experiencing a baffle strike, while a baffle stack suppressor will be slightly quieter, shorter, and able to make use of alloys such as Inconel that are more efficient but also more difficult to machine into a monolithic design.

While suppressors are by far the most expensive muzzle device on this list, and also require the extra expense and legal headache of securing an NFA tax stamp, they are a great all-around option for those with enough patience and money. Not only does a suppressor dramatically reduce noise, it also eliminates muzzles flash by cooling the gases as they travel through the baffles. Not only that, muzzle climb and felt recoil are slightly reduced thanks to the reduced energy of the gases and the added weight and length of the suppressor. They’re an increasingly popular choice for hunters who don’t want to scare off nearby game or use bulky ear protection, and if you’re building a rifle for home defense, a suppressor will ensure that you are not temporarily blinded by muzzle flash in a dark room or subjected to permanent hearing damage.

The Bottom Line

As is often the case when it comes to firearm accessories, choosing the best muzzle device for your needs ultimately comes down to your mission. While the standard flash hider that comes mounted on many modern rifles is perfectly adequate for most situations, upgrading your muzzle device is often a relatively inexpensive way to squeeze some extra efficiency or better performance out of your gun, whether you want a jack-off-all-trades tool or a highly specialized setup.

Some things in life are so obvious they get overlooked for a long time. That’s the case—no pun intended—with the 7.62×40 WT cartridge, a .223 Rem. case necked up to .308 Win. Original work on this cartridge was done by Kurt Buchert, who called it the 7.62×40 USA. With Buchert’s blessing, Bill Wilson of Wilson Combat took the concept and made it a functional reality.

Why? We’ll get to that. Folks have been trying to put bigger bullets and more power into an AR-15 for a long time for both military and sporting purposes. Examples include the 6.5 Grendel, the 6.8 Rem. SPC and the big, shoulder-smacking .450 Bushmaster. None have seen big-time success, but all have cult-like followings among users who believe they’re the answer to all things ballistic. Admittedly, I dote over the .30 Rem. AR, which I find to be the most powerful and ballistically balanced cartridge you can fire from an AR-platform rifle.

One problem is all these cartridges require not just a new barrel, but also a new bolt, possibly a new buffer and buffer spring, a new magazine and in some cases, even a new upper receiver. This makes conversions more costly and less appealing. With the 7.62×40 WT, all you need is a new barrel and a Wilson Combat-modified Lancer L5 AWM 5.56 magazine (though some unmodified AR-15 magazines will work). Ballistically, it converts your AR-15 into a flatter-shooting .30-30 Win., which sort of answers the “why” question.

Wilson began developing the 7.62×40 WT after studying the ballistics offered by the .300 AAC Blackout. He wanted a cartridge that would give optimum supersonic performance with lighter .30-caliber bullets, instead of the 220-grain projectiles for which the .300 AAC Blackout was designed.

“After experimenting with the .300 Blackout, I concluded the cartridge case really needed to be 39 to 40 mm long to work properly with common 110- to 125-grain, .30-caliber bullets,” said Wilson. (The .300 AAC Blackout case is about 35 mm long.) “Don’t take me wrong, I’m not anti-.300 Blackout. I just firmly believe it’s a subsonic-only cartridge.”

Wilson established his reputation by building superb custom 1911 pistols, but Wilson Combat also makes wonderful ARs. He is not just a competitive shooter with a tactical mindset; he is also an avid hunter. At present, Wilson may be doing more to help solve the feral hog problem in Texas using an AR-15 than anyone.

He discovered 125-grain Sierra Pro-Hunter and 125-grain Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets actually performed more like controlled-expansion bullets at 7.62×40 WT impact velocities. After guiding hunters to more than 60 hog kills, Wilson believes, “With the same shot placement, the 7.62×40 WT works about like a 6.8 SPC and runs cleaner than it or the .30 Rem. AR when suppressed.”

Based on 7.62×40 WT testing I conducted using Wilson Combat ammunition, 125-grain bullets leave a 16-inch barrel at around 2,400 fps and a 20-inch barrel at 2,500 fps. This equates to velocities high enough to generate bullet expansion at 250 yards. If zeroed 1.5 inches high at 100 yards, drop at 250 yards is less than 10 inches. These are great short-range ballistics—perfect for hunting or a utility/survival rifle. With the wide variety of available .30-caliber bullet options, moderate-range tactical applications are virtually endless.

Granted, the ballistics are similar to the Soviet 7.62×39 mm cartridge used in AK-platform rifles. However, converting an AR to the Russian cartridge requires a new barrel, bolt and magazine. What’s more, that particular cartridge has a dismal history of poor reliability in AR-platform rifles. Additionally, since factory 7.62×39 mm ammunition is loaded with bullets having diameters between 0.308 inch and the original spec of 0.311 inch, accuracy can be less than inspiring.

Wilson Combat offers complete rifles, upper receivers, barrels and five different factory loads for the 7.62×40 WT, but it’s unclear whether others will follow suit. Given the usefulness of this cartridge, it wouldn’t surprise me if more AR manufacturers got on board, and Wilson expects no royalties to follow his lead.

Ammunition availability is the risk with any new cartridge—demand drives the train. The good news is, unlike some other new cartridges, 7.62×40 WT brass is easily made from .223 Rem. cases.

The 7.62×40 WT has become Wilson’s go-to cartridge at the ranch, but of course some folks will never get the concept. Despite what one unenthusiastic blogger has said about the round, an AR chambered for the 7.62×40 WT is lighter, more powerful, flatter shooting, harder hitting and infinitely more versatile than a .30-30 Win. lever action, whether you are hunting or fighting. It’s also a great youth deer rifle or police patrol rifle.

There’s no doubt the AR is America’s favorite rifle. Wilson Combat just made it more useful and, dare I say, better.

Deer archery is the same as statewide season on a number of Wildlife Management Areas. Increased opportunities to archery hunt on WMAs and liberal bag limits means there has never been a better year to archery hunt white-tailed deer in Oklahoma. With so many places to choose from, we’ve rounded up the top WMAs for archery hunting whitetail deer in each region to help you get started. And as you head into the field this year, remember that Hunters in the Know … Take a Doe!

Beaver River WMA/wildlifedepartment.com

Northwest

Less than 100 miles northwest of Oklahoma City is Canton WMA. Its 14,877 acres surround the majority of Canton Lake known for excellent walleye fishing. Canton WMA has a lot to offer Oklahoma bowhunters. Much of the area adjacent to Canton Lake and the North Canadian River is a densely vegetated bottomland habitat. Primitive camping is available at designated areas along most access roads on the area. Additionally, developed campgrounds with RV hookups are available around Canton lake. Contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for more information on the developed campground sites.

Ft. Supply WMA and Cooper WMA are just 8 miles from Woodward and surprisingly don’t receive a lot of attention from bowhunters. The river bottom consists of cottonwood, American elm, hackberry and eastern red cedar, giving bowhunters excellent options for ground or treestand hunting. A bonus is the proximity of these areas to Woodward, which offers hunters who aren’t into “roughing it” the chance to grab a hot meal and sleep in a warm bed.

Beaver River WMA covers a sprawling 17,700 acres in western Beaver County. From the eastern boundary, a hunter would have to walk more than 15 miles to reach the western boundary. Near the southern border lies the Beaver River. Pockets of river bottom hardwoods can be bustling with deer activity. These pockets are great for the hunter who doesn’t have a tree stand or blind and simply uses natural vegetation as cover.

Cookson WMA/Photo by Jena Donnell

Northeast

Both Cookson WMA and Cherokee PHA/GMA were previously closed to archery hunting from the opening day of muzzleloader through deer gun season. Now, archery hunting is the same as statewide season dates, giving archery hunters an additional 6 weeks of hunting. (Some weekends are closed for controlled hunts only). These 2 areas combined offer more than 46,000 acres giving archery hunters lots of space to roam.

Hulah WMA is in the heart of big deer country. This WMA is vast, covering more than 16,000 acres in Osage County. In Oklahoma, Osage county holds the record for most bucks harvested during the archery season with 681 bucks during the 2019-20 season. Hulah WMA is often overlooked as hunters focus on leasing private land in Osage county.

James Collins WMA/Photo by Jena Donnell

Southeast

Three Rivers and Honobia Creek WMAs are a popular spot for gun hunters. In fact, Three Rivers WMA had the second-highest harvest totals for the 2019-20 deer gun season, and the highest deer harvest totals overall (archery, muzzleloader and gun). So what does that mean for archery hunters? Early access to one of the top destinations for whitetail hunting.

Ouachita WMA is always a great destination, but be warned, this WMA is not for the faint of heart. Covering 232,000 acres of remote and rugged forest land of the Ouachita mountain foothills, this will not be an easy hunt but it will be rewarding.

Atoka WMA is unique in that it is part of a chain of public hunting land. To the east is the Atoka Public Hunting (PHA) area bordered to the south by Stringtown WMA and McGee Creek WMA. With so many public areas sharing borders, it is like a public land supergroup.

James Collins WMA has a reputation for producing trophy bucks, meaning it can get crowded. Our advice is to carve out some weekday trips to avoid weekend crowds. Take some time to scout the area, and be ready to hunt the week prior to opening deer gun season. Crowds are smaller, and deer are beginning to move. But even if you can’t do that, James Collins is still a great option for those who intend to hunt archery during the statewide gun season, since the area is closed to gun hunting.

Sandy Sanders WMA/Photo by Jena Donnell

Southwest

The Black Kettle Wildlife Management Area is contained in the Black Kettle National Grassland. It is one of Oklahoma’s most popular public hunting areas. More than 100 scattered units make up the 30,710 acres, also making it the largest WMA in western Oklahoma. Archery hunting on this WMA has its challenges and requires a lot of planning and scouting. But ask any bowhunter who has been hunting here, it is well worth it.

Waurika WMA offers bowhunters the chance to hunt without the noise and pressure from gun hunters. Except for a controlled hunt, this area is closed to rifle hunting, making it a perfect destination for bowhunters to hunt during the rut. Just be sure to check the regulations as the area could be closed for it’s controlled hunt.

Packsaddle WMA has grown in popularity over the last decade and for good reason. Great deer management has not only produced a healthy deer herd, but also nice sized bucks. The success found at Packsaddle has not gone untold, however. A great time to bow hunt the area is after the 9 day gun season when the crowds have left and the deer are still active.

Sandy Sanders WMA in southwest Oklahoma is quiet, rugged, and remote. It’s the perfect spot for any bowhunter looking for a unique Oklahoma hunting experience. Some hunters enjoy Sandy Sanders because they have opportunities to use “spot and stalk” hunting techniques.

Note: See the “Public Hunting Lands Special Area Regulations” section of the Oklahoma Hunting Guide for more information.

Need a Hunting License?

Numerous subgenres enrich the fantastic world of guns. Sniper rifles, assault rifles, and other types of sporting weapons fall under this category. Of course, everyone loves a good sniper rifle, so we’ve decided to spend today hunting down the most cutting-edge ones available.

What is a sniper rifle?

Most people, or at least the majority of them, believe they know exactly what a sniper rifle is. A scope does not instantly transform a firearm into a sniper rifle. Naturally, accuracy is a vital factor, but the gun must be capable and effective in tactical situations. Many very accurate guns are made solely for competition and wouldn’t hold up well in a nation that has recently experienced civil war.

These requirements frequently call for the gun to be portable or simple to handle. It should have a scope, which in the present day means that it should work with contemporary night vision equipment. Effective range is crucial, as is accuracy.

Sniper rifles should have no trouble reaching out and touching a target. At the very least, a full-powered rifle cartridge is needed for this. To enhance range and counter challenges from contemporary armor, the majority of modern sniper rifles are striving for larger, more powerful ammunition.

So what are the top sniper rifles available today?

Listed below are the top 15 sniper rifles that are employed in various vital operations. It includes a few recently approved guns that are just now becoming online. There are a few sniper rifles in it that are not widely known yet but fill an interesting need. It excludes pre-production prototypes as well as outdated, no-longer-in-use sniper rifles.

These are the current top 15 sniper rifles in the world :

McMillan TAC-50, United States

Produced by McMillan Brothers Rifles, the McMillan TAC-50 is a long-range anti-material and sniper rifle. The words “tactical” and “.50 BMG” (12.7×99 mm) are used to describe it. The 1980s saw the creation of the TAC-50. This weapon is based on earlier creations from the same manufacturer. However, the Canadian Armed Forces only began using this sniper rifle in 2000.

Elite military and law enforcement units from several nations utilize this firearm. Canada, France, Georgia, Israel, Jordan, the Philippines, South Africa, Turkey, and the United States are among the countries that employ the McMillan TAC-50. It is known as the C15 Long Range Sniper Weapon in Canadian service. The TAC-50, also known as the Mk.15, is used by U.S. Navy SEALs.

It is possible to utilize the McMillan TAC-50 as a long-range anti-material weapon. This weapon has the ability to destroy vital enemy assets, including trucks, radar systems, parked aircraft, and other sensitive equipment at a distance. Additionally, it can be used to remotely destroy explosive ordnance.

Another application for the TAC-50 is a long-range sniper rifle. At standoff range, it can neutralize opposing snipers. Due to the rifle’s powerful ammunition’s ability to pierce through brick and concrete, it can also be utilized to strike enemy soldiers who are concealed behind cover and walls.

Barrett M82A1, United States

The Barrett Firearms Manufacturing firm created and developed the semi-automatic anti-material rifle known as the Barrett M82. Early in the 1980s, work on this potent anti-material gun started. By 1982, operational versions were created; consequently, M82. It is important to note that the M82 is not a U.S. military designation but rather a business designation. In 1989, the business successfully sold 100 weapons to the Swedish Armed Forces.

The US Marine Corps acquired about 125 of these rifles in 1990-1991. Orders from the U.S. Army and Air Force soon followed. Nearly 60 nations currently utilize this anti-material rifle in their armed forces and law enforcement. This anti-material rifle is employed as a long-range anti-personnel sniper weapon in a number of nations.

This weapon was meant to be used at a distance to destroy sensitive enemy equipment, such as parked aircraft, radar systems, vehicles, and other significant assets. It is used to destroy explosive ordnance remotely. The Barrett M82 is a long-range sniper rifle, even though it was initially intended to be an anti-material rifle.

Accuracy International AS50, United Kingdom

This firearm is the British gunmaker accuracy global’s 50 BMG anti-material precision rifle, the Accuracy International AS50. It has a muzzle velocity of 800 to 900 m/s, can engage with targets at a distance of 1,800 m, and is fed by 5 or 10 spherical detachable field journals.

Users can engage with targets at extremely great distances with high accuracy utilizing explosive or incendiary bullets thanks to the rifle’s 1.5 moa accuracy and the as50. As opposed to the aw50 bolt action rifle, the as50 has a gas-operated semi-automatic motion with a muzzle brake, which results in reduced recoil and quicker target acquisition. The weapon is lightweight, ergonomic, and incredibly portable. Without using any tools, it can be disassembled in under three minutes and fixed.

Accuracy International AWM, United Kingdom

The above-shown British sniper rifle is called the Arctic Warfare Magnum (AWM) which is the creation of the business Accuracy International. It is a more potent variation of the Arctic Warfare sniper rifle that is made to work with more potent and substantial Magnum-type rounds. The designation’s use of the word “Magnum” refers to the Magnum chambering. This weapon comes in two major variations; each chambered for the.300 Winchester Magnum and.338 Lapua Magnum rounds.

In 1996, this weapon was adopted. A .300 Winchester Magnum-caliber variant is in use with the Czech Republic, Germany (known as the G22 regionally), and a few other nations. At least 14 nations, including Ireland, Israel, Italy, Malaysia, the Netherlands, Norway, South Korea, and the United Kingdom, have adopted a different version that is chambered for the.338 Lapua Magnum. This sniper weapon was used in battles in Afghanistan and Iraq.

It is a sniper rifle with a bolt mechanism. The Arctic Warfare Magnum is essentially the same as the original Arctic Warfare sniper rifle, with the addition of a longer bolt to accommodate the heavier and more potent Magnum-type ammunition. This weapon features a 660 mm (26″) stainless steel barrel. It is fueled by removable 5-round magazines.

Dragunov SVD, Soviet Union

The SVD, the premier sniper rifle of the Soviet Union and its allies, must be included on any list of the best sniper rifles. The oldest rifle on this list, it was created by Yevgeny Dragunov in the late 1950s and entered service in 1963.

Although the SVD’s controls resemble those of an AK-47/74, it is not a derivative of the A.K. Similar to the A.K.; however, the SVD has been created by numerous nations in a variety of forms, making it challenging to keep track of them all, let alone summarise the platform in a little piece like this. Yet we’ll give it a shot.

The cartridge the SVD employs is the 7.6254 Rimmed, which isn’t well known by most American shooters and hunters but has achieved legendary status among military and sniper nerds due to its ranking as one of the top two or three most lethal sniper cartridges in history and deserving of the top spot, in some people’s opinions. The second-oldest cartridge still in use by the military is this one.

M24, United States

The M24 SWS (Sniper Weapon System), which is based on the Remington Model 700 rifle, is the main sniper rifle used by the U.S. Army. It was initially deployed in 1988 after being designed in the 1980s to replace the Springfield Armory M21. The M24 was essentially the first firearm created specifically for sniping by the Army.

It is classified as a “weapon system” as opposed to just a weapon because it comes with a removable telescopic sight and a number of other equipment and accessories in a single box. Additionally, the U.S. Air Force uses it.

The M24 is a bolt action rifle that can contain either 5 or 10 rounds in its detachable box magazine, depending on the variant. Either a Leupold Mk 4 LR/T M3 1040 mm fixed power scope or a Leupold Ultra M3A 1042 mm fixed power can be tapped into it. Additionally, iron sights are installed as a backup for the scope.

Sako TRG 42, Finland

The SAKO TRG 42 is a long-range sniper rifle made in Finland. One of the best sniper rifles in the entire world, in fact. It is a production-level upgrade of the prior SAKO TRG 41. A redesigned stock design is one of the TRG 42’s advantages over the TRG 41. Additionally, this weapon is capable of firing cartridges up to 95 mm in length, which are more potent.

The preceding TRG 41 was superseded in production in 1999 by the SAKO TGR 42. At least 14 nations from around the world, including the Finnish Defense Forces, use this sniper rifle in combat. Army troops and special forces are the principal users. There are also some users in law enforcement.

CheyTac M200 Intervention, United States

The longest-range sniper rifle in the world is the CheyTac M200 Intervention. It has an amazing two 122 m range and holds the world record for the best group of three bullets. This weapon has an 1830 m effective range. One of the best sniper rifles ever made is the Intervention. But for some reason, the military ignores this.

Why aren’t more of these weapons being produced if they are so good? Only a few elite groups, like the British SAS, Polish GROM, Italian, Singaporean, and Turkish special forces, employ the Intervention rifle. According to certain publications, this weapon is also used by the U.S. Navy SEALs. Although it performs well, this weapon is not very well known. The CheyTac M200 Intervention’s extreme range may not be necessary for most tactical circumstances, which is maybe the key factor.

Desert Tech SRS A2, United States

The small Desert Tech SRS A2 offers a lot of adaptabilities. Depending on the needs of the shooter, it is a switch-barrel platform that can accommodate both short- and long-action cartridges. Its modular construction makes it simple to adapt the gun to different needs.

Although it isn’t as popular as some of the other sniper rifles on this list, many militaries throughout the world use it, and both domestic and foreign law enforcement agencies have adopted it.

The following are some of the rifle’s highlights:

• Intelligent design for a bullpup’s body
• Easily interchangeable barrels and cartridges
• Superb accuracy and a smooth trigger, especially for a bullpup.

Some may find the last point to be the most important. The Desert Tech SRS A2 is an excellent choice for target shooters who shoot for fun. The SRS can be customized for long-range shooting, predator control, and suburban hunting using subsonic ammunition or general hunting, provided the shooter is willing to put up with the rifle’s weight.

Barrett MRAD, United States

Both the U.S. Army and Marine Corps had great success with the Barrett MRAD. The SOCOM Precision Sniper Rifle program was the original inspiration for the MRAD or Multi-role Adaptive Design. Sniper rifles are Barretts’ bread and butter; therefore, the company has always been game to try new things in terms of design and functionality.

The MRAD has many impressive features, but its ability to quickly change calibers is what really sets it apart. Changing calibers requires the removal of two Torx screws, a new bolt face, and perhaps a new magazine. Every barrel features a bolt face that is factory headspaced, eliminating a significant issue with quick caliber changes.

Steyr SSG 69, Austria

The Austrian sniper rifle was known as the Steyr Scharfschutzengewehr 69 (or SSG 69 for short). Outwardly, it looks like a hunting rifle, although it was actually developed to be a military and police weapon. The Austrian Army has been hunting for a cutting-edge sniper rifle since the 1960s.

The Austrian Army officially accepted the Steyr-designed rifle as its regular sniper weapon in 1969, hence the name. After Steyr-Daimler-Puch was divided, the firearms division became a separate entity. This sniper rifle was manufactured by Steyr Mannlicher from 1987 to 1989.

At some point, this weapon became famous for its remarkable accuracy and was adopted by a number of governments from all over the world. The SSG 69 is widely regarded as one of the best sniper rifles available today. Argentina, Chile, Greece, India, Indonesia, Ireland, Jordan, Netherlands, Pakistan, Peru, Saudi Arabia, and Turkey are some of the export-operating countries in the world.

US BORTAC border patrol agents also utilize this sniper weapon. Many military engagements and wars were fought using this weapon. There were no updates to the SSG 69 in almost 40 years of production. Only in 2015 did they stop making it. The SSG 08, a modern sniper rifle, eventually replaced it.

Knight’s SR-25, United States

Knight’s Armory is a legendary manufacturer that has supplied some of our finest soldiers with cutting-edge firearms. Their rail designs are used by nearly all military systems, and they have supplied Special Operations personnel with weapons and suppressors for years. The SR-25 was a major improvement upon the AR-10 platform.

The Stoner Rifle, a 7.62 NATO AR, was developed by Eugene Stoner in collaboration with Knight’s Armory. Since then, some of the world’s finest troops have relied on this gas-operated, semi-automatic, direct-impact weapon. The SR-25 was one of the first semi-automatic sniper rifles to prove its worth during a time when the bolt action sniper rifle was king.

The SR-25 was updated to reflect new developments in warfare. When adopted by the U.S. Navy and Marine Corps, it was given the designation “Mk11” by SOCOM. The Mk11 saw active duty with multiple sniper units until 2017 and showed its mettle in the War on Terror.

M40, United States

The US Marine Corps uses the M40 rifle, a bolt-action sniper weapon. The M40, M40A1, M40A3, and M40A5 are its four variations. In 1966, the M40 was first released. The A1 model transition was finished in the 1970s, the A3 model in the 2000s, and the A5 model in 2009.

At Marine Corps Base Quantico, USMC armorers modify Remington Model 700 bolt-action rifles to create the M40s, which are then assembled using parts from a variety of sources. As A1s rotate into the armory for maintenance and repair, they are upgraded to A3s and A5s while new M40A5s are being constructed.

Numerous telescopic sight variations and smaller user modifications have been made to the guns. The M40A5 has a threaded barrel that can be used with a sound suppressor or similar muzzle device and a detachable magazine. The first M40 was a factory-made, one-piece wooden stock, military-type-classified variant of the Remington 700.

B&T USA 300SPR ProFN SCAR Mk 20 SSR, Belgium

The SCAR family of rifles from F.N. has undergone various modifications to provide special operation soldiers with a platform that can do it all. The civilian version of the M.K. 20 SSR is known as the SCAR 20S. The M.K. 20 SSR, or sniper support weapon, is a semi-automatic, short-stroke gas piston rifle that uses the 7.62 NATO cartridge, which is America’s preferred round. The 6.5 Creedmoor is another alternative for shooters in the general public.

Even though F.N.’s SCAR series was already quite accurate, they went above and above with the SSR to make sure it offered top-tier accuracy for a semi-auto rifle. The full-length monolithic upper receiver of the 20S model SCAR enables snipers to add a variety of lenses. This covers optical systems for both day and night, laser aiming tools, and more.

Although the M.K. 20 SSR doesn’t have the greatest range, it does have accurate, quick-fire capabilities for close-to-moderate range precision. Fortunately, F.N. produced a civilian version of the weapon that is identical to the military version.

Sig SSG 3000, Germany

This sniper rifle is the SIG Scharfschutzengewehr 3000, also known as SSG 3000. Despite having the appearance of a hunting rifle, this weapon is designed for use in conflict. This sniper rifle was created specifically for use by the military and police enforcement. Germany was the location of this sniper rifle’s manufacturing.

In both Europe and the U.S., law enforcement agencies frequently employ the SSG 3000. Numerous special forces groups and military organizations from around the world also use it. There is no longer a supply of the SSG 3000 sniper rifle.

The SSG 3000 is a bolt-action gun that can fire 7.62×51 mm (.308 Winchester) NATO bullets. The barrel length for this sniper rifle is either 457 mm (18″) or 597 mm (23.5″). A new stock caused the SSG 3000’s appearance to vary over the course of manufacture.

The stock has a comparable design, despite some little modifications in the upgraded model. The sniper weapon in question was built to survive rigorous use. This weapon gained notoriety for its superior quality, longevity, and accuracy.

It was intended for the SSG 3000 to be a modular weapon. In a few minutes, the barrel can be quickly changed. This sniper rifle may be quickly changed to fire the .260 Remington cartridge using the SIG conversion kit. Although loaded at higher pressures, the.260 Remington is based on the.308 Winchester cartridge.

Have you ever heard turkey drumming?

Most people think of purrs, gobbling and yelps when it comes to common wild turkey vocalizations. It’s easy to see why. They’re extremely common and easy to hear echoing through the spring woods.

But spring gobblers make another, lesser-heard vocalization too. It’s called a turkey drum.

If you’ve never heard this extremely low guttural drumming sound before, don’t feel too bad. Many experienced hunters haven’t either. Here’s everything you need to know about it.

What is turkey drumming?

This vocalization is made exclusively by male turkeys and even scientists are uncertain of exactly how they do it. You’d think with birds as common as turkeys we would know all their secrets, but this one is one of those sounds in the woods that we know very little about.

Some hunters hear the word drumming and think it has something to do with a noise made by the wing feathers, but it’s generally believed a big gobbler makes this sound by quickly sucking in air and then forcing it out again quickly. The result is one of the lowest sounds in the woods. It’s so subtle, you may not even realize the gobbler in front of you is doing it if there’s enough background noise!

Most hunters refer to drumming as a gobbler spit-drum because there is also a distinct spitting sound right before the drum. Either way, this is not a long distance sound like a gobble. It is an up close and personal type of vocalization and if you hear it, it likely means the bird is already in bowhunting range.

What does it mean when a turkey is drumming?

Just like the mystery of how the sound is produced, it seems no one really knows exactly why turkeys make this strange sound. The consensus opinion is that it probably has something to do with mating rituals since it is most often heard while longbeards are strutting and trying to impress hens in the springtime. Many hunters hear it when a bird is responding to their decoys.

Although it’s also worth noting that turkeys strut all year-round, so maybe the spit-drum has some other meaning that we humans simply cannot understand? It would sure make things a lot easier for turkey hunters if we had a translator, but sadly, we do not.

Perhaps drumming is simply a way of intimidating rivals or establishing territory. One thing is for sure, it’s a sound you want to listen for each turkey season.

What does a turkey drumming sound like?

Unlike gobbling, yelping or clucks, a gobbler spit-drum sounds like nothing you’d expect from a turkey. It’s an almost alien sound. The spit part of a spit-drum sounds exactly like the name. There’s a brief, loud “Psssst!” sound. This is followed by the drum, which is truly hard to explain to someone who’s never heard it. Phonetically, the closest we can get is, “Whoooooommmmm.”

It almost sounds like the low hum of a surround sound speaker, or someone plucking one string of a bass guitar. It has a reverberation quality to it that you can actually feel if you’re in close enough proximity.

There are plenty of videos on the internet of turkeys drumming, but even these have a hard time capturing the sound of this low turkey call. Most of the time, you need to listen to audio like this with headphones in order to pick out the very distinct hum. The first time I heard it, I didn’t believe it came from a turkey!

Once you hear a turkey drumming for the first time, you too will probably be dumbfounded by this sound. It’s like no other noise these birds make.

Notice in some of these videos that the gobblers almost look like their whole body or feathers are vibrating as they drum. It seems the Tom must really dig down deep to pull this sound out. It almost sounds like the type of noise a big game animal like a deer would make!

What does turkey drumming mean for hunting?

Turkey drumming is a sound you should be actively listening for every time you step in the woods after a big gobbler. Most hunters know the frustration of a turkey that suddenly stops gobbling, but some hunters might not realize that bird is still approaching them. Some Toms quit gobbling and start drumming, but the sound is so subtle, the hunter misses hearing it. Then, when the hunter stands up to leave, the turkeys spook.

Have you ever had a situation like that? If you have, it’s probably likely that turkey was drumming near you and you didn’t realize it.

Other hunters hear a turkey drum in the woods for the first time without knowing what it is, and it takes them completely by surprise. It is a relatively rare sound of the woods. If you’ve ever heard it while out turkey hunting, you’re lucky. Not many hunters have ever heard it.

Most seasoned experts agree on this turkey hunting tip: If you’re out after a big gobbler in the spring or fall turkey season and you suddenly hear this low sound reverberating through your area, get your bow or gun ready and hope your camo is good. Because there’s a Tom in the area and he’ll probably be within shooting range before you know it! In fact, he’ll be very likely to be within archery range.

Ultimately, the science and research behind turkey drumming and how it’s produced is rather incomplete. On top of that, wild turkeys are known to do some of the most unexplainable things we can imagine, so the mystery shrouding this bird and its actions shouldn’t come as much of a surprise.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

NEXT: 10 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF AMERICA’S BIG GAME HUNTING

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Which one is better: MOA or MRAD?

The short answer: it’s your preference. If you use the metric system (meters/centimeters) then go for MRAD. But if you measure in the empirical system (yards/inches) then MOA may be easier.

If you want a more thorough answer along with an explanation of MOA vs MRAD, then keep on reading!

MOA vs MRAD: Why do we care?

Suppose you’re headed out on a hunting trip with your buddies.

You did your research, you read the best rifle scope guide, and you’re ready to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets are adjusting in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your reticle, and now your target has bounded off to another state.

The problem: he was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different systems of measurement.

When sighting rifle scopes, the reticle and turrets are used together to reach the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides an aiming point.

Your turret clicks and the hashes on your reticle can use one of two different systems of scope alignment: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t sight it in using either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between rifle scopes, here’s the only guide you’ll need to read.

What’s an MOA Scope?

M.O.A. stands for Minutes of Angle; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the distance to a target and MOA turrets correction for the bullet trajectory.

Basically the math breaks down to this: there are 360 degrees in a circle, and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. You can thank the Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA equals 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick-reference conversion chart. That way you don’t miss your prize buck while scribbling away on math problems.

MOA scopes aren’t a perfect system though.

Often calculations are made with 1 MOA at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you need to count on 100 yards with 1.05 MOA. Up to 100 yards there will be no problem with 1 to 100 comparison, but when shooting over longer distances you’ll be 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you’re only shooting at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use an MOA reticle scope on my AR-15 A2 after I removed the front sights for added cool guy points. I’ll show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What’s an MRAD Rifle Scope?

MRAD stands for milliradians (or MIL for short), and was originally developed for artillery in the late 1800s. It’s still the preferred method for military and police force operations to this day, where you’ll commonly here it referred to as a MIL-dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement that is equal to roughly 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one thousandth of a radian.

This system does not come out to make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections measuring 57.3 degrees each in an MRAD scope.

Thus, every circle has a circle circumference that is 6.28 radians long. Then each radian is going to be divided into 1,000 parts more, which is called Milliradians.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based scope, you will be calling it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4m using the metric system) equal to 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A that happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference of rifle scope.

The fight between MOA vs MRAD boils down to a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you use yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values are somewhat easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are indicated by 2 numbers only, while the cards with MOA are indicated with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the idea.

If you like other comparisons, check out my Nightforce SHV vs. Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system will take some self reflection, so buckle up.

If you normally think in meters or centimeters, then it is easier to calculate distance with a MOA. If you normally think in yards or inches, then MRAD should be your go-to.

And if you’re not going to calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between the MRAD vs MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium- and long-range shooting.

Another thing to take into account is that you also have to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, and so on. You’ll want to have a common language so you can communicate together without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system, swapping it out in the field with the best quick detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Most importantly, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes vs. second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Regardless of all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with an MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between rifle scopes.

FAQ

Footwear

Y

our boots are the most important pieces of equipment you will bring. You can borrow a gun, jacket or pack, but rarely will you be able to borrow boots. The most important aspects are fit and comfort, followed by durability. If you have foot problems or you just want your feet to feel good, I’d recommend visiting a foot specialist and getting a set of custom orthotics made.

You should at least get an after-market insole/foot bed like Super Feet. Different boots fit different feet types. If the boot does not feel good, don’t buy it for its looks. Concerning boots, I prefer all leather for most mountain hunting situations. The Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 is the best I have used in any situation PERIOD!

Plastic boots are okay in cold weather and rough terrain, but are not real comfortable to walk in over flat ground. In general, boots with less side stitching are good. Gore-Tex boots work well, but I also recommend getting a pair of 13” tall, non-insulated Gore-Tex socks from Cabela’s or another laminated sock brand called Seal Skins, in the event you step in water or your feet get wet from sweat. This is cheap insurance for dry feet. Air bob type soles work well in mud and soft terrain, provide good traction, but are not very durable in rock.

Most leather boots that you see advertised for hunting are insufficient and fall apart quickly. The following are some recommendations: Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 are our #1 choice boot as all our guides now use them in all situations. They are very durable extremely comfortable and have almost no break in time. (Contact -Jim Winjum’s web site via our Links page). The Canada Hunter 200 or 800, Alaskan Hunter, Teton Hiker and the Denali’s. Outdoor Essentials (owned by Seighard Weitzel), sells the top of the line Meindl boots (Loggers). They have good rubber and very little side stitching and hold up well in the rocks. Danner boots work, but are not the best in steep terrain or rocks.

Other excellent boots to consider are made by Kayland, Technica, Asolo, Garmot, One Sport, Vasque, Merrell, La Sportiva, Salomon and Lowa Sheep Hunters are all good. Try to get leather boots that will handle abrasive from rocks and brush and do not break down when wet.

Your boots will last much longer if you take care of them. Wear your boots around a while before you “grease” them. I clean any oil or dirt off exposed side stitching with rubbing alcohol or acetone, then coat the stitching with Seam Grip or Freesole to prevent it from getting cut on rocks and brush. Several light coats work well. For waterproofing boots, Nikwax paste works well. Meindl makes a good Wax also. Use Montana Pitch Blend on Schnee’s boots. An old toothbrush works well for applying Nikwax. I generally heat MT Pitch Blend in a Microwave or pot of hot water and apply it with a paintbrush. Use your fingers to rub the stuff into the leather grain. Snoseal and Mink oil are not as good as those mentioned .

A trick for comfortable feet, especially on a backpack trip, where you will be unable to pack another set of boots, is to bring along another set of insoles that fit your feet slightly differently than your others. It may help prevent hot spots from forming.

A Leki or Black Diamond (“Black Diamond Carbon whippet” is my go to) telescopic hiking pole is highly recommended for most people and mandatory for people with bad knees and/or poor balance. I personally will not hike with a pack without a walking stick. One other trick for people with weak or sensitive knees is to wear a set of lightweight kneepads when hunting in rocky terrain or for stalking sheep and goats in the sharp rocks. The Sitka Timberline pants have these built in or Arcteryx also sells a very good, more durable strap-on set.

After you’ve spent all that money and time finding the right set of boots, don’t cut corners on cheap socks. Bridgedale and Lorpen makes the very best. Smart wool, Wigwam & Thorlo are excellent too. There are other brands of decent socks, but these are great. If you have high volume feet, one sock may work. Some wear a liner under a heavy sock or will wear two medium thick socks together. Experiment to find out what is best for you. Of all the clothes you wear, socks are the most important to keep clean and fresh. It is a good idea to have enough for a change every 2-3 days. Athlete’s foot and blisters are not fun. Take care of your feet.

Clothing / Outerwear:

For sheep hunts I recommend Sitka in the Optifade pattern. We all use it and it works very well in the terrain we hunt. Contact David Brinker at Sitka Gear, [email protected]. He will hook you up with the right setup for any situation. I only use clothing made by Sitka. Below there is alss some options that may work for you as well.

In general, stick with synthetics (Fleece, Schoeller, Saddlecloth, nylon/poly blends etc.) or wool. For backpacking, synthetics tend to be lighter and quicker to dry. Smart Wool is hard to beat. Wool is more odor & wind resistant than fleece, unless you use Wind stopper fleece like Beyond Fleece or Mountain Hardware. A jacket or parka with a hood is a good idea.

Make sure you have a belt or suspenders for your pants Collared shirts or Zipped pullovers work the best. A vest makes a great layering tool. Some people like them and some don’t. Down vests are very warm and work well late in the fall. A fleece or wool vest will work most of the season. A lightweight jacket made with synthetic fill (Kelvin Jacket (Sitka) or Brooks Range Jacket – Barney’s Sports) is a good idea if you get cold easily. A good hat and gloves are vital to staying comfortable.

A brimmed hat works well for warmer weather, rain and for people who don’t like hoods. They can get in the way on a backpack hunt. Later in the year, a hat with earflaps will keep your neck and ears warm. Wind block fleece gloves with a shell is a good all weather combination. For cold weather, a pair of waterfowl type, Gortex gloves (Cabela’s MT050) works well as does a mountaineering type glove made by Patagonia, Mountain Hardware or Black Diamond or Outdoor Research “OR”. I always pack an extra set of “Stormfront” gloves with me as the temperature can change at anytime. If you get cold hands easily, bring a pair of mittens also.

In warmer weather, their Microtex (Burr Barrier) and lightweight fleece is great. LL Bean makes a nice set of Worsterlon clothes and wind bloc fleece. Day One Camouflage makes some of the nicest camo fleece, especially for bow hunters. They have a huge selection of patterns to choose from. Barney’s Sport Chalet sells some excellent Wind block Fleece and lightweight backpacking clothing (The Black, 3SP Sport hill Mountain Pants are great – maybe the best all around backpacking pant made for the money).

Mountain Hardware (Wind block) and Arcteryx (Gamma MX) make excellent Wind block pants and jackets. Mountain Hardware and Arcteyrx (Gamma LT) also make excellent early season backpacking/mountain/rock pants made from a Schoeller Fabric that breathe well and are very tough.

Another great line of wind block items if made by Beyond Fleece. They can custom make any size, color, feature you want. Regarding wool, King of the Mountain is the best all around for cold weather.

Another company that makes excellent technical wool clothing is IbexWear, Filson, Sleeping Indian Designs, Pendleton & Woolrich also make nice wool clothing. If you will be backpacking, the clothing should be light, quick drying and layering is a key.

Quiet clothing is important for bow hunting. For the mountain/backpack type hunts, noise and camouflage are not as important as warmth, weight, durability, comfort, fit and layering.

Regarding Camouflage, it is not necessary, but it will help you blend into the environment. If you want Camo, Sitka is by far the best Clothing for backpacking. The pattern you choose is not critical. If you are doing a mountain hunt, choose a color that is open and blends with rocks and ledges. Sitka, Kuiu, Kryptek, Mossy Oak, Advantage, ASAT, Predator & Real tree will all work.

You are not required by law to wear hunter orange.

Rain gear is likely the most debated subject in the clothing department. If you want rain gear that is maintenance free, affordable, relatively light weight, durable and fairly quiet, consider a set of Helly Hansen Impertech in Olive Green.

REMEMBER IF YOUR HIKING IN RUBBER RAIN GEAR YOU WILL SWEAT A LOT.

Sitka Gear is what we recommend – Stormfront. You can purchase it from Cabela’s or Barney’s Sport Chalet.

Good quality, 3-ply Gore-Tex (XCR is best) shells to consider include: Patagonia, Mountain Hardware, Taiga Works, Arcteryx and the North Face, these are not camo or quiet, but can work well for mountain type backpack hunts, especially in September and later. When a Gore-Tex jacket becomes dirty and looses its DWR coating, the water will not bead up on the surface, causing it to work poorly. Gore makes a product called Revivex that works on most outerwear.

For Backpack hunting (later season sheep), I recommend this group of 3-ply Gore-Tex rain gear as it does not absorb water and is easier to dry in the wind, without a fire or stove.

To keep your pants from giving you saggy crotch syndrome, make sure they come with a set of suspenders or use a bib instead.

When you combine a waterproof layer and a quiet outer material in one package, you get a quieter product, but it also becomes heavy and more difficult to dry when saturated. If anyone can help solve this dilemma, they will be able to retire and hunt forever. This is not so much an issue on horseback or cabin/wall tent type hunts, but is very important on extended backpack style hunts. If you are comfortable hunting naked, then you will not have to worry about this dilemma.

Underwear

Layering with multiple items is better than wearing just one or two heavy layers. Synthetics are the way to go for comfort, moisture wicking and warmth. In August, bring lighter weight material; in mid-September and later, you should bring heavier weight underwear.

Try products made with Thermax, MTP, Thermastat, Capalene, Polarmax and Micro Fleece. Polypropylene is not as good as it holds odor and should not be dried in a dryer. Merino Wool underwear can work well; Smart wool, Ibex Wear, Arcteryx RHO wool and Ice Breakers are great, especially in late September and October.

I prefer neutral colors: gray, brown, green or black as they can be worn by themselves. If you have long legs, get tall bottoms or you will experience high-water syndrome. Tops with a zip-top and longer neck are warmer and more comfortable when wearing binos. Arcteryx, Cabela’s & Patagonia made great synthetic products.

Regarding underwear, briefs or boxer briefs will work. I like boxer briefs when worn alone with just pants or regular briefs when wearing long underwear bottoms. Make sure that whatever you wear does not chafe your privates (some guides call this “Baboon Butt”) as you will be walking bow-legged and your smile will fade away (this is why I recommend a tube of Tinactin in your daypack). Some people don’t wear underwear underneath long underwear bottoms. Cabela’s MTP, Apalene, Polarmax and Sporthill make great synthetics. Ibex Wear also makes a set of Wool,no-itch briefs worth trying.

Why You Need A Good Pair Of Fishing Pliers

Every angler should carry a quality set of fishing pliers. While regular pliers are OK, fishing pliers with strong cutters are more appropriate for fishing applications. Here are the 3 key reasons why you need a good pair of fishing pliers.

1. Your Health & Safety

For years I watched my dad use his teeth to cut mono fishing lines. Bad idea. With pliers by his side, he might have saved a few broken teeth.

Removing hooks from the mouths of fish with sharp teeth is hazardous. With fish like barracuda, pike, and sharks, it’s downright dangerous. You risk severe lacerations or worse – the loss of a finger or hand when you attempt hook removal without pliers.

Opening split rings and replacing treble hooks requires force. Without pliers, you risk embedding hooks in your hand.

2. Fish Health

For catch and release, removing embedded hooks from deep in the mouth of a fish is nigh on impossible without a good set of fishing pliers.

Without pliers for clean, efficient hook removal, you risk doing great harm to a fish, reducing its chances of survival, or killing it outright.

3. Catching More Fish

If your line’s not in the water, you’re not catching fish. Fishing pliers provide excellent rigging efficiency as well as the ability to fine-tune lures and rigs quickly.

With good fishing pliers, you can tie complex, high-performance rigs much faster, giving you more time in the water – the key to every successful fishing trip.

Fishing Pliers Buying Guide

Fortunately for us, there are a lot of great products out there, and it’s hard to go wrong with fishing pliers. Here are some key purchasing criteria to keep in mind.

Cost

You can get serviceable pliers for under 10 bucks. For quality, multifunction pliers there’s a lot to choose from around $20 to $40.

Between $40 and $100 expect multifunctional, lightweight designs with superior anti-corrosion credentials. Above the $100 mark, high-end ergonomics and construction materials are a must. Pliers at this price point have to feel great and last for years.

Functionality

If you fish a lot of lures or tie more complex rigs regularly, split ring nose and crimping functions are ideal. They must also include blades appropriate for cutting braided lines, monofilament fishing lines, fluoro leader, and steel leader.

But for many anglers, an ergonomic grip, with secure jaws and side cutting is enough to cover their needs. For example, a crimping tool is great for closing splitshot weights, but easily achieved with any nose shap.

Saltwater Pliers vs Freshwater Fishing Pliers

Most pliers are constructed from anti-corrosion materials. By and large, the higher the price point, the more corrosion resistant. At the highest price point, expect no rust at all.

Once you’re over $100, expect them to be corrosion-proof. If you want pliers that endure, only buy saltwater fishing pliers. For me pliers that are suitable only for freshwater fishing are unnecessary.

Materials

Most fishing pliers are made from a variety of lightweight alloys for corrosion protection and easy handling. Many brands will have different materials, such as stainless steel (often replaceabl) for the jaws for better grip and durability.

Stainless steel pliers are very durable if at times a little heavy. Materials such as aircraft-grade alloys and tungsten are generally reserved for more expensive brands and models.

Lightweight aluminum pliers are inexpensive and durable, and always a good bet.

Cutters

Tungsten carbide blades are pretty well the standard these days for blades. They’re not all constructed equally, however, so stay-sharp durability can be a bit of a lottery. To avoid replacing pliers regularly, look for reversible and replaceable blades.

Nose Length

If you’re removing hooks from big fish with big mouths and teeth, look for long nose pliers with a total length of up to 11 inches. 7 inches is a standard overall length, and you’ll be choosing between standard and needle nose. 7 inches is the Goldilocks length and suitable for the vast majority of fishing applications.

I like the maneuverability and dexterity afforded by needle nose. However, there’s a lot to be said for the purchase afforded by standard nose widths. This will often come down to feel – therefore a personal choice.

Grips

Ergonomic grips can make a set of pliers. But we all have different ideas as to what constitutes grip comfort.. Comfort is important, but I also look for non-slip grips. Some anti-corrosion coatings and anodizing can be slippery – I tend to avoid these. A solid grip is vital, as is a safe grip. An aluminum handle will often have a well-shaped ergonomic design, great for gripping, but can be cold to the touch in winter.

Be aware that plastic and rubber overlay grips will allow salt and sand to get between the grip and the handles. This can cause corrosion if not cleaned properly. Spring-loaded handles are great, but the spring can invite weakness and corrosion.

Lanyard & Sheath

In nearly all cases, the lanyard, and sheath will die long before your pliers do. The key thing to look for is the strength of the link between the chord and pliers, and the sheath and pliers. These are often weak points. I always change out the factory links with my own strong split rings or carabiner for peace of mind.

Final Words On The Best Fishing Pliers

Every angler should carry pliers. Fortunately, there are countless worthy options in every price bracket. My winner today, the Piscifun Aluminum Fishing Pliers, has very strong competition. But for price-relative functionality, they were hard to beat. My runners-up are the KastKing Intimidator Fishing Pliers, and the Gerber Magnipliers – awesome options from contrasting price points.