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Known as the Land of 10,000 Lakes, Minnesota is a freshwater paradise. But more importantly, it’s a dream come true for every avid angler. If you’re wondering why that’s the case, the answer is simple – the entire state is brimming with record-breaking specimens! And no, we aren’t exaggerating. We’re probably selling it short. But we’ll let the Minnesota state record fish speak for themselves.

We could endlessly gush about Minnesota being the ultimate freshwater angling destination, but only facts testify to this. So, in this article, we’ll list the most sought-after fish species in Minnesota and give you an account of how they made the headlines. So without further ado, let’s see what all the hype is about.

Biggest Fish Caught in Minnesota by Species

As a freshwater fishing magnate, Minnesota boasts world-famous fish species such as Bass, Catfish, Crappie, Sunfish, and Perch. The list goes on and includes local VIPs like Walleye, Pike, Musky, and Sturgeon, too. But be it a local or global favorite (or both), one thing is certain – there isn’t a shortage of brag-worthy catches.

To see what Minnesota’s record for each headliner is, click on the species below. Bear in mind that the fish are listed in alphabetical order and not according to the latest record.

• Bass (Largemouth)
• Bass (Smallmouth)
• Catfish (Flathead)
• Crappie
• Musky
• Perch (Yellow)
• Pike (Northern)
• Sturgeon
• Sunfish
• Walleye

Bass (Largemouth)

• Minnesota state record: 8 lbs 15 oz on Auburn Lake in 2005.

Largemouth Bass are, without a doubt, among the most popular freshwater game fish in the world. Minnesota is no exception. One reason they’re so much in demand is because they’re excellent opponents. They’ll strike your bait with explosive force. The other reason is their abundance. You’ll find them in over 2,000 lakes and almost all major rivers in Minnesota.

The weedy shorelines and underwater structures of Leech Lake, Lake Minnetonka, and Vermillion Lake make an ideal habitat for Largemouth Bass. Besides lakes, you can count on the Mississippi, St. Croix, Zumbro, and Cloquet Rivers to always provide you with a bragging story. From the regular 2-pounders to enviable 5-pounders, these hotspots won’t disappoint with their Largemouth Bass offer.

Curiously enough, the Minnesota state record Largemouth Bass didn’t come from any of these fisheries. The biggest Minnesota Bass was taken from Auburn Lake in 2005. The fish weighed 8 pounds 15 ounces and was 23.5 inches long. And more impressively, its girth was 17.5 inches! This monster dethroned its predecessor, which had held the record for 11 years.

To make the entire story even more interesting, this beast was the first fish of the morning for Mark Raveling, a 54-year-old tournament angler. How about that?

Bass (Smallmouth)

• Minnesota state record: 8 lbs on West Battle Lake in 1948.

If you thought that Largemouth Bass were all the rage, wait to see what Minnesota Smallmouth Bass have in store for you. Smallies are anything but small. While they weigh between 2 and 4 pounds on average, they can easily outgrow Largemouth and reach 8 pounds. What’s more, the Minnesota state record Smallmouth Bass caught on West Battle Lake in 1948 was an 8 lb brute!

West Battle Lake isn’t the only body of water stocked with Smallmouth Bass. Their population is vibrant in the upper Mississippi and St. Croix Rivers, as well as in all major drainages across the state. They also thrive in Rainy Lake, Mille Lacs Lake, and Basswood Lake. In fact, two of the biggest Minnesota Smallies were caught in these lakes – a Lake Mille Lacs 5-pounder landed in 2001 and a Basswood Lake 6-pounder hooked in 1997.

Long story short, it seems that it’s high time a new Minnesota state record for Smallmouth Bass was made! So, gear up with hard lures, soft tube baits, plastic worms, spinners, or jigs, and hit one of these lakes and rivers in late spring and score the next state record.

The rocky eddies of rivers and crystal-clear shallows of lakes will be your allies when outsmarting Smallies. Once hooked, however, they won’t go down without a fight. More aggressive than Largemouth, Smallies will make you break a sweat – and hopefully a record, too.

Catfish (Flathead)

• Minnesota state record: 52.25 inches on the St. Croix River in 2017.

Speaking of hefty fellas that will spice up your angling endeavors, have you ever fished for Flathead Catfish? These massive creatures are the second largest fish in Minnesota, preceded only by Sturgeon. Their size and weight often surpass the Smallmouth and Largemouth Bass records combined!

If you haven’t battled these monsters before, it’s high time you added them to your bucket list. Not only are they size-inspiring, but they’re also fun and easy to catch. You just have to know where to look for them and how to lure them your way.

A usual stink bait, for example, doesn’t work for Flatheads as they prefer live bait. Also, stick to rootwad patches with moderate current, and a Catifsh will almost immediately grace the end of your line. To ensure they stay on the line, use a sturdy 7′ rod with at least a 30 lb test line.

When it comes to the exact spot, look no further than the St. Croix River and its Stillwater region. The St. Croix River has been the most reliable fishery for pulling out giants over the years. This is also the place where the first Minnesota Flathead Catfish record was made in 1970. It was none other than a 70-pounder! But that wasn’t the only jaw-dropping Flathead caught here. Mark Mosby hit the jackpot with a behemoth measuring 4.38 feet in 2017 after only 15 minutes of reeling!

Crappie

• Minnesota state record: A 5 lb, 21″ Black Crappie on the Vermilion River in 1940.

Unlike Catfish, Crappie aren’t impressive in size. Yet, they rank pretty high on Minnesota’s list of favorite fish to pursue. What’s more, they come immediately after Walleye. So, what’s the catch (pun intended)?

The reasons to love Crappie are numerous. Apart from being delicious and available throughout the entire year, they’ll motivate you to experiment with your angling approaches. A minnow beneath a bobber and a beetle-spin casting lure is effective. But you’ll have to mix and match baits, lures, and techniques until you find the right combo.

Even though Crappie can be elusive, the good news is that they’re widespread. Minnesota’s lakes and rivers are stocked with Crappie. You can wet your line anywhere from Mille Lacs Lake, Minnetonka Lake, and Lake Winnibigoshish to Red Lake, Sand Lake, Lake Andrew, and Bowstring Lake. Wherever you, there, the chances are you’ll end up with a decent 12″, 1 lb specimen.

A record-breaking bruiser, however, was found in the Vermillion River in 1940. The fish in question was Black Crappie which measured 21 inches long and weighed 5 pounds! So now that you know where to look for Crappie and how to outwit them, you’re ready break the old Minnesota state Crappie record.

Musky

• Minnesota state record: 58.25 inches on Mille Lacs Lake in 2022.

Muskellunge, better known as Muskies, are naturally large fish. They typically grow to be between 28 and 48 inches. Quite a catch, right? Now imagine how rewarding a 4.9-footer is. Well, that’s precisely what the latest Minnesota Musky record is!

The lucky angler who broke the previous record (a 4.8′ Musky caught in 2021) for the longest Musky in Minnesota is Eric Bakke of Princeton. He was trolling on Mille Lacs Lake with his fishing buddy Jon Blood when the trophy fish bit. They measured it, snapped a photo, and returned the fish to the water. Having in mind how Muskies can live 18 years on average, he released it hoping there would be still a chance for someone to clash with this titan.

If this sparked your interest in Musky fishing, then you know where to find the next Minnesota record. But Mille Lacs Lake isn’t the only place with a hot bite. The previous two Musky records were made on Lake Vermillion. With these two powerful bodies of water at your disposal, a superb Musky hunt is guaranteed!

One final tip for landing a prize catch is to align your pursuit with Muskies’ peak season. While the prime time to go after Muskies is in late summer, you’ll usually spot the largest specimens in October.

Perch (Yellow)

• Minnesota state record: 3 lbs 4 oz on Lake Plantagenet in 1945.

Often overshadowed by their more popular neighbors such as Crappie and Walleye, Yellow Perch aren’t to be missed out on. Perky and tasty, Yellow Perch aren’t the biggest fish around and they most certainly aren’t the best fighters. They are, however, excellent ice-fishing targets. Sure, you can hunt them year-round, but wintertime is when they shine the brightest.

If you want the Perch to bite, you’ll first have to intrigue them. Start with a basic hook and slowly introduce spinner rigs and small jigs. And then boost your odds by adding live bait like worms or crayfish. If you’re ice fishing, use ice flies tipped with grubs as well. Of course, this is just a suggestion and the possibilities are endless.

All in all, you get the point – Yellow Perch are exciting to fish for. They’ll always keep you on your toes. And that’s another reason anglers find a thrill in going after Yellow Perch. Should you need any further motivation to pursue them, we can tell you that Minnesota’s waters are overflowing with Perch.

Lake Winnibigoshish, Leech Lake, Cass Lake, Lake of the Woods, Big Stone Lake, and Mille Lacs Lake are famous Perch fisheries. They’ll treat you to plenty of 10-ouncers. However, if you’re after the new Minnesota state record Perch, you might want to check out Lake Plantagenet. This is where the last record was caught, weighing an incredible 3 pounds and 4 ounces!

Pike (Northern)

• Minnesota state record: 46.25 inches on Basswood Lake in 2021 and Mille Lacs Lake in 2024.

Next up, we present you Northern Pike. Formidable fighters and aggressive predators, Pike are a beloved sport fish in Minnesota. On top of being worthy rivals, Pike are available in almost all lakes across the state making them must-fish targets when angling in Minnesota. They’re on every angler’s list! With them being everywhere and everyone going after them, it’s no surprise then that the Minnesota state record Northern Pike is a tie!

Yes, you read that correctly – Minnesota has not one but two Pike records! The latest prize fish was caught by Brad Lila on Mille Lacs Lake in 2024 and it shares first place with the 2021 Pike reeled in by Brecken Kobylecky on Basswood Lake. Both creatures were 3.85 feet long! When compared to a common 26-inch keeper, these trophies sound amazing. Apart from quantity, Minnesota boasts quality Pike fishing as well.

To glorify Minnesota’s Pike fishing opportunities even further, we have to tell you that one state record was an ice fishing product, while the other was a summer angling outcome. So, be it summer or winter, a record-breaking Pike is waiting for you in Minnesota!

Mille Lacs Lake and Basswood Lake are the ultimate spots for you to chase that gigantic Pike, but so are the Rainy River, Leech Lake, Lake Winnibigoshish, and Lake Vermillion. Beware that it took 30 minutes and a helping hand for Brad Lila to pull his monster out of hiding. You’ll need serious muscle power and assistance if you want to break the current record.

Sturgeon

• Minnesota state record: 78 inches on the St. Croix River in 2019.

Speaking of back-breaking action, you’ll most certainly need all the help you can get for these colossal beings. Sturgeon are “living dinosaurs of the fish world” for a reason. They can live over 150 years and weigh an unbelievable three digits! But what about Minnesota’s Sturgeon?

Lake Sturgeon are Minnesota’s largest fish and they can weigh more than 100 pounds. As for length, let’s say that a 3′ fish in the Rainy River is a common occurrence. Darren Troseth, however, was fortunate enough to stumble on what may be the biggest-ever fish in Minnesota! It was none other than a 6.5′ ice fishing catch! This makes the Minnesota state record Sturgeon quite the catch.

Darren, a seasoned angler and an experienced captain, said he had caught many beasts during his lifetime but he had never seen a fish that big! Since one regular hole wasn’t enough, he had to drill four more before he could brag about his trophy! He even immortalized his epic ice fishing moment on the St. Croix River in a video.

Although neither endangered nor threatened, Sturgeon are considered a species of special concern in order to be protected from overfishing and extinction. So, please have this in mind when chasing the Minnesota Sturgeon record.

Sunfish

• Minnesota state record: 1 lb 12 oz on the Zumbro River in 1994 and Green Lake in 2022.

Slowly but surely, we’re wrapping up Minnesota’s line-up of the state record fish. Maybe they aren’t as mind-blowing as Sturgeon, but Sunfish deserve praise, too. Bluegill, Pumpkinseed, Green, and Hybrid, Sunfish are popular species to fish for in Minnesota. And each has its own record. But the latest Sunfish record was a 2022 Hybrid – and it was the same as the 1994 record. Yes, another tie!

Aaron Ardoff, the holder of the current Minnesota state record Sunfish, always hoped he’d get his hand on trophy Sunny. However, he was targeting Pike and Bass with spinnerbaits on Green Lake when he suddenly realized his dream was about to come true. And, as fate would have it, he landed a record-breaking Sunny that September in 2022.

Aaron’s Hybrid weighed in at 1 pound and 12 ounces! And this chubby fella tied the one reeled in from the Zumbro River back in 1994. For a Panfish that doesn’t always exceed half a pound, this was quite an accomplishment.

Mostly pursued due to their exquisite reputation as table fare, Sunfish are surprisingly good fighters, too. Whether you’re after a plump Sunny like Aaron’s or if you’re into a delicious dinner, Gull Lake, Green Lake, and the backwaters of the Mississippi River will always greet you with a healthy Sunfish population.

Walleye

• Minnesota state record: 17 lbs 8 oz on the Sea Gull River in 1979.

We saved the best for last – Walleye. Big, mean, fast, furious, elusive, and unpredictable, Walleye are everything a game fish should be. It’s no wonder that Walleye are Minnesota’s state fish and that two counties, Garrison and Baudette, compete for the title of “Walleye Capital of the World!”

To pump things up further, it was Cook County and the Sea Gull River at Saganaga Lake that took the Walleye crown – not Garrison or Baudette. This is where the Minnesota Walleye state record of 17 pounds and 8 ounces was found by LeRoy Chiovitte in 1979. The specimen was almost 3 feet in length with a girth of 21.25 inches.

Don Mickel was on the verge of beating this record in 2012 but he had to release his catch and was unable to confirm its potential. But this is great news for you as it means there’s still room for snatching a true gem in one of Minnesota’s Walleye fisheries.

The average Minnesota Walleye ranges between 1 and 4 pounds, but 8-pounders regularly patrol the waters of Mille Lacs Lake and Lake of the Woods. And then, from time to time, a giant appears.

Minnesota State Record Fish: An Overview

Here’s a quick breakdown of the above-mentioned species, their measurements, and the angling hotspots that made history:

Species Pounds Ounces Length (in) Girth (in) Place Year Bass (Largemouth) 8 15 23.25 17.25 Auburn Lake 2005 Bass (Smallmouth) 8 0 N/A N/A West Battle Lake 1948 Catfish (Flathead) N/A N/A 52.25 32 St. Croix River 2017 Crappie (Black) 5 0 21 N/A Vermillion River 1940 Musky N/A N/A 58.25 N/A Mille Lacs Lake 2022 Perch (Yellow) 3 4 N/A N/A Lake Plantagenet 1945 Pike (Northern) N/A N/A 46.25 N/A Basswood Lake 2021 Pike (Northern) N/A N/A 46.25 23.5 Mille Lacs Lake 2024 Sturgeon N/A N/A 78 29.25 St. Croix River 2019 Sunfish (Hybrid) 1 12 11.25 12 Zumbro River 1994 Sunfish (Hybrid) 1 12 12 13 Green Lake 2022 Walleye 17 8 35.75 21.25 Sea Gull River 1979

Minnesota State Record Fish: A Neverending Story

You’ve reached the end of this article but the list of Minnesota’s state record fish is a neverending story. The records aren’t set in stone and each day brings us closer to a new jaw-dropping trophy that might dethrone its predecessor. After all, this is the Land of 10,000 Lakes and the possibilities are endless.

We’ll keep a close eye on Minnesota’s angling scene and update you as new brag-worthy fish emerge. Who knows, maybe someday we’ll write about you and your fish.

How did you like our Minnesota state record fish blog? What record surprised you? Do you have any Minnesota bragging stories of your own? Hit the button below and share your thoughts with us.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer

The term “Bullwinkle disease” sounds more like a joke about someone than an actual ailment. As it turns out, Bullwinkle disease in deer is a thing. It’s a true-to-life disease that can impact deer. Although quite rare, it seems white-tailed deer can get an infection that causes their muzzle to swell. In turn, their face looks more like the cartoon moose Bullwinkle than that of a normal, healthy whitetail.

Wildlife vets know that the head swelling is caused by a long-term bacterial infection in soft tissues of the afflicted deer’s face. However, the most fascinating part of Bullwinkle disease is that no one knows how deer get it. Or even where the bacteria comes from.

Bullwinkle Deer

Source: “The Southeastern Cooperative Wildlife Disease Study (SCWDS) has been studying the parasites and diseases of white-tailed deer for more than 56 years. With so much time and effort invested in this area, one would think that few surprises would be left, but that doesn’t ever seem to be the case. Since 2005, we have received samples from ten deer with oddly deformed muzzles, as well as reports of several other affected deer. The swollen muzzles give them a strange appearance and prompted someone to call them “Bullwinkle deer,” based on their resemblance to the 1960’s cartoon character.

Although the cases reported to us are uncommon, they occur over a wide geographic area. In fact, affected white-tailed deer have been submitted to SCWDS from as far north as Michigan and as far south as Alabama. Furthermore, the condition also has been confirmed in a mule deer buck in Idaho.

Bullwinkle Disease in Deer & Head Swelling

The swollen faces are the result of chronic inflammation in the soft tissues of the muzzle. Deer with lumpy jaw can also have swollen jaws, but not to the same extent. The inflammation also is seen in connective tissues in the oral cavity, but it is much more severe on the nose and upper lip. All of the deer examined have had similar colonies of bacteria within the inflammatory infiltrates. Attempts to culture the bacteria have been frustrating. This is possibly due to chronicity of lesions, freezing and storage of samples prior to submission. Alternatively, it may be due to excessive growth of secondary bacterial contaminants.

Staining characteristics and DNA sequencing of the bacterial colonies observed suggest they differ from other organisms known to cause problems in deer. Investigations continue into the bacteria’s potential role in the development of this condition.

So far, all of the reported cases have been in hunter-killed deer or deer observed in the wild. Some deer have been thin, but there have been no reports of mortality directly attributed to this disease. One landowner reported having seen the same affected deer at a backyard feeder for nearly two years. Many of the deer observed or killed have been known to visit feed sites. However, the association with feeding is anecdotal. At this time, we do not know the factors that may predispose a deer to develop this unusual condition.

The lesions are certainly dramatic, but this disease does not appear to have any negative consequences for deer populations. Cases are relatively infrequent and are not clustered. It is possible that this problem has always occurred in deer, but at a very low prevalence. However, it has become very easy for photographs to be widely circulated among hunters and biologists in a very short period of time. We can attribute that to hunters, trail cameras and the internet.

This rapid sharing of information may have increased the detection and submission of rare and unusual cases, such as the Bullwinkle disease in deer we see here. Prepared by Kevin Keel, University of California-Davis”

The right panfish rod and reel is a conduit to the underwater world. Anglers often talk about rod tips, as the connection to lure and biting fish. But truly, the tip is no more important than the line, reel, or other aspects of the tool. Trouble is, the difference between a mismatch and a perfect fit can be subtle, even elusive. You can’t always put your finger on it, but when all the pieces — rod, reel, line, lure — fall into place, you know it.

The Dock Shooter

Some of the biggest sunfish and crappies I’ve caught in recent seasons have been taken by skipping baits below boat docks and other overhanging cover. The rod I use is a 6-foot 6-inch Cabela’s Fish Eagle II (GSII662-2) coupled with a Shimano Sedona 1000FD. The reel’s loaded with 4- or 6-pound braid with an 18-inch fluorocarbon leader.

Its length and soft action match my style of skipping tubes and other softbaits. Other anglers prefer short “shooting” rods coupled with underspin reels, such as the Pflueger Trion Spincast and 6-pound-test mono. The 4-foot 5-inch B’n’M Sharpshooter is a popular option. Anglers grip the back of the lure, loading the rod and pointing the tip toward its target. With a finger on the reel’s trigger, they release lure and trigger simultaneously, shooting the bait well beneath the cover. It’s a method I have yet to master. But watching a shooting specialist, such as Ohio crappie pro Russ Bailey extract slabs from 20 feet back under a pontoon boat, makes a convincing case.

Classic Jig Pitcher

My affection for working diminutive hair jigs and plastics goes back three decades. Even today, it’s hard to outdo a black curlytail grub and 1/32-ounce jig on 2-pound-test mono. In the early years, my favorite rods were a St. Croix Premier (PS66LF) and a Cabela’s Fish Eagle (GS702), models that still sell well.

These 6-foot 6-inch to 7-foot, long-handled, light-power rods enabled me to fling tiny 1/80- to 1/16-ounce jigs for distance. No question that longer — light rather than ultralight — rods cast farther, line and reel being equal. But it’s more than length. The tip section, that is, the final quarter of the blank on the Premier, is soft enough to provide a fast catapult. With a limp 2- or 3-pound-test monofilament coursing through the guides, even a 1/64-ounce jig feels substantial as it hangs from the tip. Done right, a rapid 2-o’clock to 10-o’clock to 2-o’clock pendulum can punch out 30-foot to 50-foot casts, even in moderate headwinds.

It’s tempting to say that softer (slower) tip and butt sections on rods designated ultralight further empower the catapult, resulting in even longer casts. This is true to a point. But excessive softness reduces casting accuracy, jig control, and certainly, sensitivity. Fighting bull bluegills on ultralights is fun, but enticing them to bite is significantly more likely with a precision light-power, moderately fast- to fast-action blank.

Rod tip “action” is described as the speed at which the rod returns to straight after it’s been fully loaded. Moderately soft tips can be fast in action, even though they provide plenty of cushion for catapult casts. There’s a perceivable difference — one’s sloppy, the other precise. A fast yet appropriately soft tip enhances casting distance and provides measured give, yet allows fine control over jigging cadence. The perfect tip allows me to impart petite, precise darts, twitches, and sweeps to a jig without sacrificing the ability to cushion 2-pound mono. Moreover, new feather-light rod guides add another dimension.

Line Advice

Though the labeling on some light-action rods calls for no less than 4-pound line, many of them fish 2- and 3-pound test beautifully. Beyond classic Trilene XL, Maxima’s Ultragreen in 2- and 3-pound test is a workhorse mono that’s been popular for over 40 years. Sunline Siglon F in 2-pound test is another fabulous mono. Ultragreen, however, remains one of the only lines to offer 3-pound test, which remains a versatile choice.

Many anglers have switched from mono to braid, and I can’t fault the choice other than to make a case for stretch. In certain jig scenarios, the stretch of mono has benefits. It prevents premature hook-sets and lip damage that can occur with braid. Stretch prompts fish to hold a bait longer before rejecting it since they don’t feel you pulling back. It provides a shock absorber that keeps fish hooked better as well. In shallow water, mono wins. Deeper than 20 feet, braid rules.

Regarding fluorocarbon, I never spool it on small spinning reels. Its rigidity causes casting problems. It tends to slap the rod blank, and feels heavier on the rod than comparable mono. For abrasion resistance in heavy cover, or as a means of disguise, it’s often beneficial to add a 12- to 18-inch section of 4- to 8-pound-test fluorocarbon at the end of a mono or braid mainline.

Reel Choice

For maximizing casting distance and minimizing line coils, larger spools help. Designations vary somewhat by company, but it’s usually best to select the second smallest spinning reel in a series. Most of my jigging rods are matched with Shimano Stradic CI4 1000s, Pflueger Purist 1325s, or Abu Garcia Cardinal STX10s.

With light mono, smooth reel performance is important, and you mostly get what you pay for. Any rough or “dry” spots in the reel’s rotation can interrupt jig contact, which results in missed bites. Likewise, a smooth drag prevents line breakage.

New Wave Jig Pitcher

New rod options elevate performance on several fronts. One of the sweetest introductions in recent years has been St. Croix’s Panfish Series. I’ve fished several models in this 9-rod series and they all have excellent blank actions. Guide and noted panfish angler Brian Brosdahl is a fan of these rods, choosing the 6-foot 9-inch PFS69ULF and 7-foot PFS70LXF for most of his shallow-water jig casting.

The light power, extra-fast action 7-foot PFS70LXF is a gem. Proprietary St. Croix SCVI graphite provides a fine blend of weight, balance, and sensitivity. Progressive Pac Bay Minima guides cut rod weight significantly and position the rings well away from the blank. This separation reduces line slap, increases casting distance, and seems to enhance sensitivity.

The blank features an appropriately soft casting tip, while the butt section has power for setting hooks and hoisting fish. It couples nicely with a Shimano Stradic CI4 1000F and 3-pound Maxima Ultragreen for casting tiny jigs in shallow water as well as working panfish swimbaits. It fishes instinctively, which is the highest praise I can offer.

The “Bull” Whip

When I first cast the 6-foot 7-inch G. Loomis TSR791 — part of their Trout & Panfish Series — it became another new favorite. Loomis classifies it ultralight power and fast action to handle 2- to 6-pound-test and 1/32- to 3/16-ounce lures. Compared to the St. Croix Panfish option, its blank and tip are slightly faster, and with a bit more beef through the spine.

G. Loomis marketing coordinator John Mazurkiewicz suggested I match it with a Shimano Stradic CI4 1000FML Microline reel, which handles thin polyethylene lines, suchas 3-pound PowerPro Microline, brilliantly. I used that combo to fling 1/16- and 1/8-ounce hair jigs for white bass, trout, perch, and crappies.

Its faster tip was ideal for working jigs slightly more aggressively, and for setting hooks in deeper water, whereas the St. Croix combo worked best in the shallows. I also used that combo to fling crappie-sized cranks. Particularly around cover and in ultra-clear water, I added an 18-inch Sunline Metan Invisible fluoro leader.

Vertical Jigger

Much of the year, we fish vertically for suspended crappies and white bass, as well as bottom-hugging sunfish and perch. Fishing a 1/16- to 1/4-ounce jig, spoon, or a drop-shotrig below the boat are money presentations. For these vertical approaches, a 5-foot rod provides pinpoint control and sensitivity. The tip on my old favorite 5-foot 3-inch Fenwick HMG (GS53L-M) is fast enough to transmit bites in deep water, yet the rest of the blank flexes enough to prevent slack line and lost fish during lengthy fights. Its faster tip can deliver minor quivers and bumps to lures 20 feet below.

Shorter rods keep lures positioned within the sonar’s cone angle. With careful boat control, it’s possible (and often critical) to watch lures and fish reacting to them on the screen.

With low stretch and tiny diameter, 3-pound-test Berkley NanoFil shines for deep vertical approaches. Wide-spool reels such as a Pflueger Purist 1325 minimize line coils and lure spin — critical elements for deepwater jigging.

Spinner Stroller / SlipFloat Dipper

When hunting panfish spread across expanses, slowly trolling with a bow-mount trolling motor is essential. Methods differ north to south, but rod choices don’t. Long 9- to 11-foot rods with extra-soft tips and beefy butt sections excel for towing jigs, cranks, and small spinner rigs adorned with plastics or livebait.

For pulling spinner rigs behind 1/4-ounce bullet sinkers in vegetation, I’ve long used an 11-foot Cabela’s Match Rod, now out of production. Last season, I added an 11-foot St. Croix Panfish Series (PFS110LMF2) rod.

These long, moderately-slow-action rods perform double-duty for slipfloat fishing and for dipping light jigs into tight spots in cover. For trolling, 4- to 10-pound mono or braid works. For slipfloats, it’s 4- to 8-pound mono, depending on cover. In wood, many anglers prefer heavier braid and lightwire hooks to straighten and free snagged rigs with steady pressure.

On recent trips, I’ve been impressed by rods from B’n’M Fishing. Designed by Pickwick Lake, Tennessee, crappie guide Roger Gant, “The Difference” rods (available in 8-, 9-, and 10-foot versions) offer soft, yet sensitive tips on IM6 blanks. Crafted for a crappie tactic known as “side-pulling,” these rods also shine for spider-rigging and for tightlining deep crappies.

When drifting and trolling, multiple long rods go in holders, while anglers monitor their spread until a tip arcs deeply into hooked fish. Small line-holder reels, such as B’n’M’s Buck’s Mini Reel is a popular choice, as are specially designed single-action reels with bait alarms. B’n’M, Bass Pro Shops, and Slater’s offer fine trolling reels.

Woodcock may be one of the greatest game birds to pursue for those interested in becoming a bird hunter or in areas otherwise devoid of wild birds

It comes as no surprise that the popularity of American woodcock hunting has risen with the decline of other upland game species in its flyway. In many areas, the bobwhite quail has become a distant whistle and the ruffed grouse merely a ghost. Woodcock are a migratory bird with flyways that stretch from Canada to Louisiana, east Texas, and even Florida. As a result of their geographic diversity, they have earned a variety of nicknames and cultural nods such as “mud bat” and woodcock gumbo. The entire eastern half of the United States hosts woodcock seasons which are regulated by federal migratory game laws. With a crash course in habitat knowledge, the leap to becoming a woodcock hunter is often easier than with other upland game species. Before you know it, that distinct whistle of rising wings will be a calling card for one of your favorite game species.

Are woodcock the gateway bird of the East?

If you ask me, woodcock represent one of the greatest opportunities for becoming an upland hunter. I may even take it a step further and say that they represent one of the best entry-level pursuits for new hunters all around. They offer exciting wingshooting challenges that can sometimes feel more like video-gaming than hard work. For those of us that drift further into the uplands and find ourselves with a bird dog coming along, we soon discover that woodcock may be a new dog’s (and hunter’s) best friend.

The biggest challenge when making the leap to woodcock hunting is learning about habitat, but this is easily achieved even without advanced degrees in ecology. A few basic concepts will eventually blossom into more elaborate ideas and theories with more time spent in the woods.

Woodcock hunting gear

Woodcock hunting gear can be as complex or as simple as you want, which is one of the beauties of upland hunting. Jeans can suffice if you can stand some thorns, or you could go invest in expensive upland-specific pants—the choice is yours. When it comes to topics like chokes and shot size, there are some specifics that make the most sense for the quarry. When it comes to choosing a hunting dog, should you go down that route, that’s a novel but we can at least get you started.

Woodcock shotguns, chokes, and shot size

Woodcock are not large birds. On the upper end, a female can weigh as much as a half-pound and on the low end, males can weigh as little as five ounces, so they do not require heavy firepower to bring down effectively and ethically.

The nature of the cover that woodcock inhabit and their behavior towards hunters will make for a lot of close shooting opportunities. This scenario calls for open shogun chokes like cylinder, skeet, and improved cylinder.

The most popular lead shot sizes for hunting woodcock are #7.5, #8 and #9. More obscure specialty loads can take you to #10 shot and to spreader loads, which have a wad designed to allow shot to spread out faster. In the realm of steel, #6 and #7 shot are among the most popular if only because smaller steel loads are very uncommon or non-existent. It does not take a lot to kill a woodcock, so it’s worth considering how many pellets you’re willing to pick out of one before eating. My personal choice is #7 steel.

When it comes to choosing a shotgun for woodcock hunting, it is the answer we all know is always true, but never want to hear: use a shotgun that works for you. The most popular of all the shotgun gauges for woodcock is 20 gauge, but the 12 gauge continues as a cultural staple. More obscure gauges like 16 and 28 find good representation in woodcock hunting, while the more experienced may try the challenge of a .410. The action type does not matter as long as it’s a gun that you can shoot straight with confidence. Note that federal migratory game laws require a shotgun plug when hunting woodcock to reduce the gun’s capacity to three shells. Shotguns with shorter barrels are traditionally valued for woodcock hunting due to the stem density and tight swinging area of their preferred habitat, though there’s plenty of debate over a few extra inches and their added value to overall gun balance… but that’s a discussion for another day.

Woodcock hunting clothing

As mentioned, jeans can work just fine in the pursuit of woodcock. There is no need for camouflage, but woodcock hunting certainly calls for blaze orange in the interest of safety. You will need a means to carry shotgun shells (probably 25 depending on your success and shooting consistency), your empty shells, water, birds (hopefully!), and outdoor basics like a compass and even matches and poncho if you wander into remote country. The addition of a dog can increase the list of items to carry quite a bit. Many upland vests and strap vests have been designed over the years by upland junkies, iconic brands, and even some homemade lots. If you get really into it, it’s worth checking out the countless vest options along with a good jacket and upland pants. A pair of leather shooting gloves is nice, but I have survived a solid 25 years in the woods without them.

Boots are the one thing I would not leave open to interpretation. Woodcock tend to live in wet lowland environments as they probe soft soils for earthworms. Some hunters may pitch a solid pair of leather boots, but I will debate it to my grave that rubber boots will always be the best option. Leather boots are great, right up until you step into a wet hole that sends water over the top and into the boot. You can put a fair number of miles in when searching for woodcock, so it’s important to think about comfort and avoiding blisters, too.

Woodcock dogs

Choosing a dog breed (even without a game species involved) is like going to an ice cream stand with an endless number of flavors, not to mention having to choose between cone and cup. You can effectively use a flusher, a pointer, or a dog you rescued at the pound who likes to walk in thick cover. There are some breeds that have even been named because of their particular woodcock hunting ability, like the American and English Cocker Spaniels. But there are also pointing breeds that are just as specialized and well-suited for this type of hunting. I am a pointing dog guy at the end of the day and, just like anything, we all have personal preferences.

If you are considering a dog, think first about what you want out of it. Perhaps join a local hunting dog club like NAVHDA to see some different dogs in action. You should be looking for a dog that has been bred to hunt the region or terrain that encompasses your primary hunting area. Most importantly, once you decide on a breed, carefully vet your breeder. Ask to see their dogs hunt, ask other people for recommendations, and do your homework. It’s an investment of hopefully 12 years or more that will be your shadow each and every day, so it should be taken more seriously than buying a car.

The good thing about hunting the American woodcock with dogs is that the birds generally like to hold tight and not walk. The recent influx of woodcock hunters throughout the flyway certainly seems to be accelerating some walking and running behavior, but still nothing compared to the iconic ruffed grouse, notorious scaled quail, or the classic ring-necked pheasant. Ultimately, for the novice dog handler, woodcock can and will become addicting for both the hunter and the dog.

Getting to know the American woodcock

Woodcock are a migratory bird, so the kinds of places in which they live, nest, and stop over can vary by geographic location. They have two primary flyways: the central, which is essentially from Ontario to northern Louisiana, and the eastern, which is from Quebec to northern Florida. However, we must remember these are man-made lines and recent studies by the United States Fish and Wildlife Service and the American Woodcock Society have shown birds crossing over these flyway systems. The northern reaches of the woodcock flyway are what is considered their “resident” location, which typically includes Canada, upper Midwest states, and parts of New England. The southern areas like Louisiana and east Texas are considered their wintering grounds and are generally dictated by whether the soil freezes, which affects their ability to probe for worms. Any place in between the resident and wintering grounds is often referred to as stop-over states.

Getting to know woodcock cover

Woodcock like young vegetation with a high stem density, or places considered early succession growth in forests. Add in upland shrubbery or alders and if you have trouble walking through it, you can be sure a woodcock would love it. They also need a place to land to get into the cover. I have found that thick areas adjacent to fields, log landings, trails, and meadows tend to hold birds because they have ample openings to set down. Their food source is primarily earthworms, which has more to do with soil type than anything else. If you are ready for advanced theories on that, you can read “Targeting Worms with GIS Soil Data to find Woodcock Habitat.”

To simplify all this, noting that this is not fine science, this is where I would begin:

1. There needs to be soft and moist soil
2. The brush density needs to be such that it’s hard to walk through and swinging a shotgun seems challenging
3. Check for a nearby opening for landing and access
4. When all else fails, try hunting along rivers and waterways with dense shrubbery immediately nearby

In recent years I have found woodcock in soft wood (conifer) covers, which is something that trends more commonly as they head south in stop-over states. While I do not know the exact science, my guess is that it’s pretty easy for those short legs to walk on those open floors while still providing cover from predators above.

For the best understanding of woodcock cover, I recommend learning from a biologist and not a novice woodcock hunter like myself. Read: How to Identify American Woodcock Habitat

The nature of migrating birds

The fall woodcock migration is an exciting and sometimes frustrating part of woodcock hunting. If you catch the bug like I did, you may find yourself following the migration south, hunting multiple states and trying to extend your season. When the cold weather comes in, so do the “flights” of woodcocks arriving from north of your location to stop over during the migration to wintering grounds. It’s a tricky thing and many argue the science behind what makes the birds pick up and move, but you will certainly notice that one day a cover can have birds everywhere and the next it will only be a faint memory with remnants of their signs like woodcock splash.

READ: The Unrealized Opportunity of Woodcock Hunting in the Central Midwest

This fleeting presence is something to love, but it is also a warning sign that the birds will eventually be gone. States with no resident populations will find it more inconsistent, so you should not easily give up on a particular spot because things can change from day to day.

OUTDOOR LIFE: How to Hunt the Mysterious Woodcock Migration

Shooting woodcock

There are a couple schools of thought when it comes to wingshooting woodcock. First, it’s important to understand how woodcock tend to flush. The nickname “mud bat” refers to their characteristic rise like that of a bat. Their flight is often like a fluttering, unpredictable dance or zig-zag to the top of the canopy. Once past that, they tend to take off like rocket ships or, as the folks from Modern Wild would say, like “timber rockets.” There are plenty of exceptions to those rules, of course. Sometimes they will liftoff in a deliberate and direct pattern, which some would argue is a tell-tale sign of a resident bird knowing how to escape. Weak flyers are often considered tired flight birds, but neither assumption has been scientifically proven.

One of the greatest things about woodcock—especially if you are hunting with a dog—is that they tend to hold tight, meaning you must come close to stepping on them in order to get them to fly. This is what makes them great for young dogs in training, but can make them a little more challenging to find if hunting without a dog (more on that later).

The most reputable school of thought on shooting technique is to let the bird get away from you a bit before shooting. This allows for their trajectory to stabilize and for your shot to open up to a larger pattern. I usually have an issue containing myself, so as soon as that whistle comes up and the bird is a safe height off the ground, I let the shots fly. You can really approach this however you like, just get some shot safely in the sky when the bird gets up. To be most effective at this, you have to understand one of the more difficult mental barriers in shooting woodcock: ignoring the trees.

I grew up shooting woodcock from as early as I can remember and never once thought about a tree as my barrel swung through thick cover. But for those that did not get programmed at a young age, this can be a hurdle. If the trees and branches get into your head, you will not swing properly and you will always be at a disadvantage when shooting woodcock.

READ: Ignore the Trees when Grouse and Woodcock Shooting for Better Results

Beyond that, understanding the basic theories of effective shotgun shooting, such as the Churchill method, can greatly increase your odds in any wingshooting situation. Practice your gun mount repeatedly, consider the fit of your shotgun, and try patterning your gun to understand the shot pattern before hitting the woods.

Hunting woodcock without a dog

There are undoubtedly people reading this right now and yelling, “Blasphemy!” at their screen. But yes, woodcock can be hunted without a bird dog. Although I started off in my early years hunting over my father’s Brittany, I continued hunting later in life without a dog. Because woodcock hold tight, you will have to carefully grid an area when walking to make sure you have applied ample pressure to get them to flush. They are highly camouflaged, so without a dog’s nose giving you an indication of where they sit, you are unlikely to see them until they take off.

Recovery of shot woodcock without the aid of a dog can be particularly challenging because their camouflaged coloring blends in perfectly with the forest floor. Since they are small and live in dense cover, they can often get hung up on things off the ground, which only adds to the complexity of locating them after the shot. As a conservationist, you owe it to the bird to make a serious effort with or without a dog to recover game in any circumstances.

READ: How to Recover More Birds without a Dog

The controversy and ethics of pass shooting woodcock

Pass shooting woodcock is a technique rarely spoken of and highly controversial. Many consider it to be “unsporting.” I bring it up because you will inevitably discover it and should carefully consider the ethics of such a method. Although legal in some areas, it’s important to remember that legality does not always equate to sustainable practice. As hunters, we should think carefully about the long-term implications of pass shooting woodcock and the impact on future woodcock populations.

Pass shooting woodcock is a method that takes advantage of the final, legal shooting time to shoot woodcock as they move through open areas like fields to move to feeding areas. I often hear stories of early morning waterfowl hunters shooting woodcock at first light, as well. By setting up in a field adjacent to woodcock habitat and waiting for these final or first moments, a hunter will encounter fast-flying birds. These birds are a challenge to hit because they are often at top speeds. At a minimum, I would recommend steering clear of this method and finding a downed woodcock that sailed a long distance is not easy and could certainly start to enter the realm of the unethical. As a responsible culture, we need to make the hard choices even when laws permit it. We should not rely on legislation to dictate our morals and our commitment to sustainable practices.

Eating American woodcock

Although woodcock can be a culinary challenge at first attempt, with a bit of knowledge they can make amazing table fare. A few basic rules can accelerate that process. As renowned upland game chef Hank Shaw would point out, they pluck easily. Aging woodcock is a common practice, accomplished by tossing them in a fridge for a few days with the guts still in and the feathers still on. After a few days, they are better tasting and easier to pluck.

Woodcock cook faster than chicken and must either be cooked to medium rare or for a very long time to allow the meat to fall off the bones. Anything in between will cause you to think that woodcock aren’t worth eating, which is simply untrue. They are “earthy” in flavor and respond well when paired with mushrooms or sweeter things from where they live, such as apples and cranberries. Sure, you can slap bacon on them and of course it will taste great (and like bacon), but they are very good when prepared in other manners as well.

The legs are often thrown away, but it’s worth pointing out that this light, tender meat is arguably the best part of the bird. They can either be cooked as part of a whole bird or saved for a day of woodcock poppers or buffalo legs. Woodcock have become the most common bird prepared in my kitchen.

Woodcock conservation

In speaking of hunting woodcock, we must take note of their current state and their future. Since the populations were first recorded in the 1970s, woodcock have suffered a 1% decline every year. Habitat loss is the largest culprit in this decline, because woodcock often migrate through areas that are heavily developed without consideration for their needs. Recent studies with the Eastern Woodcock Migration Research Cooperative (EWMRC), in partnership with the American Woodcock Society, are hoping to identify areas that are in greatest need of habitat for stop-over cover.

While the populations are considered stable and safe to hunt, and given the migratory nature of the bird, you can feel safe and confident in hunting them in any state that has a legal season. They are currently sustainable and will hopefully begin to rebound if we all do our part to follow the science and support efforts to create more habitat.

Recent mumbling in the scientific community has theorized, but not yet proven, that climate change may be shifting the woodcock range and affecting some breeding behavior. This is worth following as we learn more and consider how this will affect the future of hunting this bird.

Woodcock hunting media content

Woodcock has been written about since medieval times when the Eurasian woodcock would be cooked in court. Eventually hunting practices evolved with dogs to bring them to market. In the Americas, they are known for the poetic culture that surrounds them, which has been explored by many of the upland literature greats. If you are an audio lover, I would suggest heading over to Audible and downloading Woodcock Shooting by Edmund Davis. This 1908 classic is unusual, poetic, and informative. Furthermore, you can check out frequent episodes of the Project Upland Podcast where host Nick Larson’s love for the woodcock and culture is hard to hide.

American woodcock hold the distinct position as the most-covered bird in Project Upland Original Films. Much of that simply reflects the opportunity that surrounded me when my passion brought me along this path. From our first year of films with the Ruffed Grouse Society to the viral film “First Season,” digging through our film library will give many options to get inspired in the poetic vibes of woodcock culture. If seeing drone footage of woodcock points and shooting situations sounds intriguing, check out the film “Legacy.” And for those as nerdy as it comes, you can find our latest film on the topic, “Woodcock Banding,” which explores the unusual ritual of using dogs in the spring to band woodcock with biologist Bailey Petersen.

Project Upland has a long list of woodcock hunting articles that can be found here.

We will continue to evolve this article as we create more content around woodcock hunting in North America, so be sure to check back in. And in the true crowdsource mentality of the Project Upland community, we always like to hear about what questions and ideas you have around the topic. Comment below, email us, or hop onto the Facebook community page to share your thoughts. We hope this article helps with woodcock hunting this season.

Last month, Sasquatch The Legend explored the topic of Where Sasquatch Sleeps. This month, it’s what exactly this mysterious creature sustains itself on that is the focus.

Dinner plate, homemade pie (author photos)

Roots? Berries? Fish? Elk? Even…humans? Every living thing must eat in order to sustain itself, but what exactly does the being we call Bigfoot or Sasquatch consume? Sasquatch The Legend turned to a few of our favorite Bigfoot/Sasquatch reference books for answers.

Kathy Moscowitz Strain’s Giants, Cannibals & Monsters: Bigfoot in Native Culture (2008) is an excellent source of historic tales originally sourced from the oral traditions of native peoples of the the Americas.

Within Strain’s book, some of the oldest references to the giant beings we now know as Bigfoot or Sasquatch depict them as cannibalistic monsters capable of carrying away innocent men, women and children to consume at their leisure.

“There was a great Giant who lived in the north. His name was Oo-wel’lin, and he was as big as a pine tree. When he saw the country full of people he said they looked good to eat, and came and carried them off and ate them. He could catch ten men at a time and hold them between his fingers, and put more in a net on his back, and carry them off,” begins one story from the Miwok Indian people of California, quoted by Strain (p. 29).

Stories of cannibal Bigfoot-like beings are not limited to California, but are echoed in the oral histories of native peoples throughout the Western United States and Canada (see Tom Sewid’s artwork below, depicting the Dzoonakwa stealing children.)

Bigfoot-like creature capturing children (artwork and photo: Tom Sewid)

In another story, “Che-ha-lum-che comes out only at night and wanders around seeking Mewuk (people) to eat. He prefers women; of these he catches and carries off all he can find. Sometimes he makes a crying noise, hoo-oo’-oo, like a baby, to lure them. If they come he seizes them and tosses them into his big pack basket and carries them to his cave, where he eats them. In the basket is a long spike which pierces their bodies when they are thrown in, so they can not escape. In his caves are the remains of his victims—horns of deer and bones of people and different kinds of animals” (Strain, p. 35).

(Thankfully, these accounts are from the distant past, and Sasquatch The Legend is not aware of documented, modern accounts that suggest Bigfoot/Sasquatch is still eating human beings, at least not at the present time. However, as author David Paulides notes in his many books, there are countless human beings who have disappeared in the forests across North America under mysterious circumstances, so caution is always advised when in areas where Sasquatch have been seen.)

Early Bigfoot researcher and author, Ivan T. Sanderson, in Abominable Snowmen: Legend Come to Life (1960) includes many eyewitness stories about Sasquatch, some which include the beings eating. One story about a berry-eating Sasquatch near Chiliwack, British Columbia, Canada stands out:

Wild huckleberries, Alaska (author photo)

“Green Hicks suddenly stopped us and drew our attention to a large, light brown creature standing about 8 feet high, standing on its hind legs (standing upright) pulling at the berry bushes with one hand or paw toward him and putting berries in his mouth with the other hand, or paw. I stood still wondering, and McRae and Green Hicks were arguing. Hicks said, ‘It is a wild man’ and McRae said, ‘It is a bear.’ As far as I am concerned the strange creature looked more like a human being” (Sanderson, p. 77).

John Napier’s Bigfoot: The Yeti & Sasquatch in Myth and Reality (1972) recounts the tale of the kidnapping of Albert Ostman by a Sasquatch family. Ostman speaks of “grasses with sweet roots, spruce and hemlock tips and tubers” which the mother and son Sasquatch collect and bring back to the cave to eat (Napier, p. 74). Napier notes that “Grass and spruce tips, however rich they might be in protein, hardly seem an adequate diet” for a large Sasquatch being.

Meadow grasses and trees, Breckenridge, Colorado (author photo)

Napier also mentions the Chapman story, a tale from Canada in which a family living on a remote homestead was visited one day by an “8 foot high male creature which emerged from the woods,” left “gigantic footsteps”, and seemingly turned over (and presumably ate) a heavy barrel of salted fish (Napier, p. 76).

Bigfoot researcher John Green, in his book, Sasquatch The Apes Among Us (1978) very helpfully sorts and categorizes observed Sasquatch behaviors such as eating. Green notes that Sasquatch have been seen by humans while eating all of the following items: “roots, leaves, berries, grass stems, water weeds, small rodents, fish, raw bacon & eggs, garbage” and also have been seen carrying away, presumably to eat, such items as “deer, sheep, cattle, corn, chickens and rabbits” (Green, p. 447).

Homegrown corn (author photo)

A story from a 10-year-old boy in West Linn, Oregon, in Green’s book, tells of “a big hairy animal standing upright in the Detroit Reservoir, in Oregon.” Witnesses watched it “reach down and catch a fish, which it ate after biting off the head. When it noticed them it ran off and left 16-inch footprints in the mud” (Green, p. 434).

In J. Robert Alley’s Raincoast Sasquatch (2003), a book that is a treasure trove of eyewitness Sasquatch encounters, the author describes multiple accounts of Sasquatch beings being seen searching for food such as picking berries, digging for beach sand and piling up rocks, presumably in a search for crabs and clams, and carrying deer.

Sandy beach near Forks, Washington (author photo)

In one account from the 1960s in Alaska, a boater told of seeing “what looked like a manlike, dark, hairy creature, digging in the sand like he was digging for clams using a stick….digging with its right hand. The stick it had been digging with would have been about the size of a small baseball bat or halibut club. While digging, it would pick something up with its left hand and, it seemed like, would put something to its mouth” (Alley, pp. 84-85).

In another exciting encounter from Alley, a teenage boy describes walking with his friends on a road near Ketchikan, Alaska when “Suddenly we saw a deer come crashing out of the woods on the bluff above us, and right behind it came a big black thing. Both the deer and the creature passed within thirty feet of the nearest boy and it appeared to me to be about ten feet tall. The deer crossed the road at top speed but the thing saw us, seemed to stop for a second, and then took off right after the deer again. It was real big and ran on two legs, covered all over with black hair” (Alley, p. 91).

Deer, Olympic National Park, Washington (author photo)

Brushes with Bigfoot: Sasquatch Behaviors Reported in Close Encounters, Native and Non-native Perspectives (2021) a more recent book also by J. Robert Alley, contains a couple stories about eyewitnesses seeing Sasquatch in a search for food. One witness watched a Sasquatch on the Unuk River in Alaska “lifting rocks up with his hand and he scraped the crabs out with the other hand” (p. 105).

Another witness, one of a very few to actually see a Sasquatch eating, said that while he and a friend were out night fishing, he watched the big figure of a Sasquatch on the riverbank near them, consuming fish guts. “It moved on two legs but would bend over, backside to us, to scoop up the fish guts that we left. It was just shoveling them in at an enormous rate, ‘Mmow,’ like that…you could hear him sucking up the stuff, ‘Mowww,’ without even chewing—just huge slurping sounds when he’d lift it all up to his mouth. I couldn’t believe how much of the stuff he was just puttin’ away!” (pp. 126-127).

Jeff Meldrum, a professor of anatomy and anthropology at Idaho State University, in his work, Sasquatch: Legend Meets Science, (2006) notes that, “the menu of food items reported by eyewitnesses ranges from berries to elk” (p. 168) and that “the Sasquatch diet seems to span the wide spectrum of a generalized omnivore” (Meldrum, p. 188).

Elk on a hill, California (photo: Rachel Hebert)

Linda Coil Suchy’s Who’s Watching You? An exploration of the Bigfoot Phenomenon in the Pacific Northwest (2009) includes an interesting story about Suchy’s own grandmother, who lived in the Bellingham, Washington area in the 1960s and ‘70s and kept a huge vegetable and fruit garden.

Vegetable garden (author photo)

The grandmother saw that vegetables and fruits were being taken from her garden in amounts that seemed excessive for the usual visitors of deer and rabbits, and she saw extraordinarily large footprints in her garden, so one week she sat up late over several nights, waiting to see who exactly was visiting. She saw “a dark brown hairy beast, at least eight feet tall” and watched as it ate her “raspberries, tomatoes, squash and green beans” (Suchy, pp. 17-18).

Homegrown tomatoes and green beans (author photo)

Concluding that it was “just an unfortunate creature who’s hungry, that’s all” the grandmother decided to leave food for the visitor on her picnic table. She even began baking entire squash or pumpkin cakes for her visitor, leaving them on the table for him. In return, he would leave her tokens of appreciation, such as “an apple, a pine cone, a flower or a pretty rock.” (Suchy, pp. 18-20). Apparently this giving and taking relationship continued for several years. (Suchy even includes her grandmother’s recipe for Squash or Pumpkin Cake in her book, a particularly nice touch.)

In Nick Redfern’s The Bigfoot Book: The Encyclopedia of Sasquatch, Yeti and Cryptic Primates (2016), a letter from a woman in Florida complains that a Bigfoot-like being has been “taking apples that my daughter brought down from up north, off my back porch” (Redfern, p. 192). Redfern also relates a funny story from a female Chehalis tribal member in British Columbia, Canada, who said that “when her husband was returning from the hunt with a score or more of ducks he had shot, a Sasquatch stepped out of the bush and took the ducks from him—except one, which the giant stuffed into the shirt of the frightened Indian” (Redfern, pp. 67-68).

Honeycrisp apples (author photo)

Steve Isdahl’s recent book, The Day Sasquatch Became Real For Me (2020) while not always easy to read because its contents include hundreds of viewer letters transcribed just as written by the individual authors, is still a fantastic resource to draw upon due to the wealth of information that can be gleaned from its eyewitness accounts.

In Isdah’s book are several descriptions of Sasquatch beings being observed eating or seen taking animals away, presumably to eat them later. In one story, a hunter hears a pig “let out this blood-curdling scream” and then hears something stepping very close to him, so he raises his flashlight to see what it is. He sees something taking the pig, something ”8-foot-tall, light brown/gray…looked like a less hairy, pissed-off Chewbacca” (Isdahl, p. 50). A different hog-hunter, in Texas, describes seeing a Sasquatch capture a wild hog and “tear the head from its body” (Isdahl, p. 168).

Wild hogs with alligator, Florida (photo: Tom Corser, www.tomcorser.com)

In another story sent to Isdahl, this one from Florida, a boater spots a “6 foot creature, muscular, with reddish hair” standing up, holding a small alligator in its right hand and eating it (Isdahl, p. 190). In a tale from a trout fisherman, an 18-year-old young man describes having pebbles tossed at him while he was fishing, seeing something a “big creature…with reddish-brown hair” standing up and looking at him, and feeling that it “wasn’t really showing aggression but just letting me know, hey, you’re in my spot” (Isdahl, p. 234).

Trout fishing stream, Montana (author photo)

In still another story, a fisherman has huge, “cinder-block sized” rocks chucked at him from a massive being hidden in the trees. The next day, he returns to the site and finds “just-eaten” white tail deer (Isdahl, pp. 281-282). And in yet another story a group of elk hunters in Montana come across a “big bull elk, dead in the creek” with “its neck broken” but “still warm” and immediately after, encounter a huge Sasquatch, “standing, watching” (Isdahl, pp. 207-208).

As this array of accounts from various places and times suggests, Sasquatch seems to be an omnivore capable of and interested in eating many different types of foods, ranging from meats to fish and shellfish to plant matter such as roots, vegetables and fruits. (Surely we should also include homemade squash cakes in this list.)

This article could continue for many additional pages, detailing more foods that Sasquatch is said to have eaten, including everything from acorn meal to packaged luncheon meat to entire sticks of butter. It seems that the Sasquatch can and does eat many different foods, depending on what is available to it in its environment.

Perhaps in terms of its diet and those foods that appeal to it, Sasquatch is much more like us than we might have realized.

by Christina Hebert

For more great stories, check out our News & Views section, here.

Below we review the best spotting scopes for birding and wildlife viewing for 2024 by price range:

• Super-Budget (Under $200)
• Budget (Under $500)
• Semi-Budget ($500-$1,000)
• Mid-Priced ($1,000-$2,000)
• Best of the Best (over $2,000)

Don’t Get a Spotting Spotting Scope for Less Than $100!

Just one thing before we proceed…

I plead with you not to buy a spotting scope for birding/wildlife viewing that is priced less than $100.

They will cause you eye strain and even worse, severe frustration.

Cheap scopes may be good for looking at an elephant 100 yards away or to see your 22 cal bullet holes in your paper target at the range, but they are not made for bird watching.

You’re better off just looking through your binoculars than using such a scope.

One exception would be for someone who just wants to look at backyard birds from their deck and/or take photos of them and doesn’t want to hold binoculars.

Good. Now that I got that off my chest, we can proceed.

Straight or Angled?

Most of the scopes listed below come in both angled and straight models.

Its up to you and the kind of viewing you mostly do.

Click here for reviewing the pros and cons of Angled or Straight bird watching spotting scopes.

Also, most scope models are available in several different objective lens sizes. It all depends on your personal needs.

Click here to review objective lens sizes for bird watching spotting scopes.

Best Super-Budget Spotting Scope (Under $200)

Celestron 80mm Ultima Zoom Spotting Scope

The Celestron Ultima Zoom Spotting Scope is an refractor-style scope with an 80mm objective lens with built-in zoom from 20x-60x.

It comes in both straight and angled designs (see all listings below).

If you want an entry-level scope, this is a very good choice.

The only drawback is that the scope does not have the more expensive ED glass which helps prevent blue fringing at the higher magnification.

• Multi-coated optics
• Waterproof
• Eyecup can be removed to attach a camera on standard T-Thread
• 45 degree angled eyepiece supports shorter tripod if needed
• Lightweight at 3.6 pounds
• Comes with padded carrying case that has access zippers on both ends of scope so you can use the scope without removing the case

The Celestron Ultima also has other options available such as a 65mm (cheaper) and 100mm (more expensive) objective lens and also comes in both angled and straight models for each of the sizes.

Objective Lens Size

The bigger the objective lens, the greater the light-gathering capacity of the scope, but it also increases the weight.

If you do a lot of low-light birding (i.e., at dawn and dusk, in cloudy locations, etc.) then you may want to get the 100mm size.

But for most conditions, the 80mm will be plenty. We wouldn’t recommend getting the 65mm in this scope since this is a lower-end scope without premium optics.

Also, Celestron states “The Ultima 80 mm offers a step up in aperture from the 65 mm, offering 50% brighter images.” 50% is quite significant and I think worth the extra cost.

You can review more about objective lens sizes here.

And again, if you’re not sure if you want a straight or angled scope, read our quick tips here about choosing scope body design.

-> View the Celestron Ultima Spotting Scope

Here are all the Celestron Ultima model choices in angled and straight bodies with either the 80mm or 100mm objective lens.

Best Budget Spotting Scope (Under $500)

Vortex Diamondback 20-60×80 Spotting Scope

The Diamondback is an exceptional scope at this price point. It is Vortex’s lowest-price model compared to the Viper HD and Razor HD spotting scopes.

The Vortex Diamondback line comes in both straight and angled models in both 60 mm and 80 mm objective lens sizes.

It is a full-sized scope in a compact design, weighing less than most spotting scopes in this size at only 33.8 oz and 47.1 oz for the 60 mm and 80 mm lenses, respectively.

We recommend the 80mm lens which will always give you that added brightness edge, especially valued in low-light conditions.

And not for nothing, we really love the view-through case that actually is easy to use and view-through because of its generous-fitting design.

• Full XR multicoated optics
• Dielectric prism coatings for improved brightness
• ArmorTek scratch-resistant coating
• O-ring sealed and nitrogen-purged – waterproof and fogproof

We also love Vortex’s Warranty:

~Vortex VIP Warranty~

Lifetime. Unlimited. Unconditional.

Vortex will repair or replace the product in the event it becomes damaged or defective.

Absolutely free—no matter the cause!

-> View Vortex Diamondback HD Spotting Scope

Vanguard Endeavor HD 20-60x65mm Spotting Scope

The Vanguard Endeavor HD Spotting Scope is an amazing bird watching scope for its size and price in the under $500 price range.

Birders have been impressed with this one and love that it’s light and compact for on-the-go birding adventures.

Features include:

• ED Extra-Low dispersion glass virtually eliminates color fringing
• Fully multi-coated optical system with improved coatings gives high light transmission rate
• Rubber armored magnesium housing for lightweight and durability
• Retractable sunshade with peep sight
• Eyepiece and deluxe scope coat included
• Fully waterproof (submersible) and fog proof – nitrogen filled body & eyepiece
• Phase coated Bak4 prisms for high resolution
• Detachable eyepiece with 20-60x zoom with retractable eyecup and up to 20mm of eye relief
• Available digiscoping adapter allows use of the scope as a super telephoto lens

65mm or 82mm Objective Lens?

The Vanguard Endeavor comes in both 65mm and 82mm sizes.

Unless you plan to do a lot of digiscoping or will often be in low-light conditions, we think the 65mm objective lens is suitable for most birding situations, especially with the ED and multi-coated glass.

This smaller lens and resulting lighter weight will also be appreciated by those who plan to carry it a lot.

-> View the Vanguard Endeavor HD Scope

Best Semi-Budget Spotting Scope ($500-$1,000)

Celestron Regal M2 20-60x80ED Spotting Scope

If you can afford a $500+ scope, the Celestron Regal M2 80ED Spotting Scope is well worth the investment with ED glass, XLT multi-coated optics, and a magnesium alloy lightweight, yet very durable body.

• Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass minimizes chromatic aberration, increases resolution and contrast, and provides color fidelity
• Proprietary XLT (Fully Mulit-Coated) lens coatings maximize light transmission for bright, sharp images
• Magnesium allow body – lightweight yet strong – decreases overall weight by 14% compared to previous model
• Fully waterproof and nitrogen purged to prevent fogging
• Upgraded dual focus mechanism – can focus on objects 2x faster
• T-Ring and T-Adapter for attaching your camera for digiscoping

Celestron Regal M2 80ED Spotting Scope Overview

-> View the Celestron Regal MD 80ED Spotting Scope

Best Mid-Priced Spotting Scope ($1,000-$2,000)

Vortex 20-60×85 Razor HD Spotting Scope

The Vortex 20-60×85 Razor HD Angled Spotting Scope is a high-quality bird watching spotting scope and an excellent value at that in this price range.

• Premium Extra-Low Dispersion (ED) glass for exceptional viewing in low light conditions.
• Ultra-hard coated Armor Tek protects exterior lenses from scratches, oil and dirt
• Dielectric prism coatings provide the clearest, brightest, most color-accurate images
• Proprietary XR anti-reflective coatings increase light transmissions for maximum brightness
• Triplet apochromatic lens reduces chromatic aberration.
• Porro prism offers maximum image quality and performance
• Waterproof O-ring sealed optics keeps out dust and debris
• Fogproof – argon gas purged

-> View the Vortex Razor HD Scope

Best of the Best Spotting Scope (over $2,000)

Kowa TSN-800 Series Prominar Pure Fluorite Spotting Scope

The Kowa TSN-800 Series is one of the best bird watching spotting scopes money can buy.

The TSN-883 is the angled body model, TSN-884 is the straight body model.

Crystal clear clarity from Kowa’s unique Prominar pure fluorite crystal lenses is just the beginning.

• The combination of the ultra-low dispersion pure fluorite crystal paired with a concave lens provides stunningly bright razor sharp images, minimizing chromatic aberrations (color fringing), image fuzziness and extended twilight and low light performance
• Dual Focus: Quick & Fine focusing. Quick will focus from infinity to five meters in 2 revolutions. Fine is smooth with pinpoint accuracy for high magnification adjustments and for digiscoping
• Lightweight, compact design – the highly achromatized objective lens makes the scope as compact a 60mm scope without sacrificing performance
• Waterproof to JIS 7 protection class 7 (protects against effects of temporary immersion in water – aka, “Oops!” protection) and nitrogen purged to prevent fogging
• 3 eyepieces available: TE-11WZ (25-60x, wide zoom), TE-17W (30x, wide) TE-20H (25x, LER – long eye relief). There is an eyepiece locking mechanism to prevent accidental release. Note that the TE-11WZ has replaced the older TE-10Z (20-60x, zoom) model.

Kowa TSN-883 (Angled) and TSN-884 (Straight) Spotting Scopes Overview

Kowa TE-11WZ (25-60x, wide zoom) Eyepiece (Replaced TE-10Z)

Digiscoping with the Kowa TSN-883 Spotting Scope and TE-11WZ 25-60x Wide Angle Eyepiece

The stills and video below were shot using a Panasonic GH4 Micro Four Thirds 4K Camera.

The Kowa TSN-DA10 Micro Four Thirds Digiscoping System

The Kowa TSN-DA10 digiscoping adapter is made for Micro Four Thirds camera system bodies and Micro Four Third compact lenses up to 25mm focal length (full size) (50mm MFT equivalent) and can be combined with the Kowa TE-11WZ eyepiece.

• Set-up is simple (takes less than a minute) and you can easily switch between landscape and portrait positioning as well as quickly slide the adapter off for normal observation.
• The DA10 fits lenses with a 43mm filter thread. If your lens has a different size filter – simply add one of our adapter rings – AR28/30/30.5/37/43/46/52/55/58/62/72mm between your lens and the DA10.
• All camera functions remain including camera lens auto-focus and focus peaking.

Digiscoping with the Kowa TSN-883 Spotting Scope and iPhone 6S 4K Video

Even an iPhone delivers stunning footage and photographs through the Kowa-TSN 883.

Kowa TSN-800 Series Cost: $$$….

Seeing your life-bird as a crystal-clear, razor-sharp image, even in low light… Priceless!

-> View the Kowa-TSN 883/884 Prominar Spotting Scope

Recap

Below in the product widget are all of the best spotting scopes for birding (as well as for other outdoor wildlife viewing) in the 5 price ranges: Super-Budget, Budget, Semi-Budget, Mid-Priced and Best of the Best.

We also listed the Nikon Prostaff 5 Proscope 20-60×82 in the Semi-Budget range as a good second choice in that category. We have found that Amazon typically has the best prices, including shipping which is usually free.

Our overall advice: Buy the best spotting scope you can afford.

***NOTE: The Alpen Scopes are no longer available due to the company going out of business.***

→Our new pick in this price range is the Vortex Diamondback 20-60×80 Spotting Scope as noted above.

Or jump to the Semi-Budget Spotting Scope category.

Bird Watching Spotting Scopes FAQs

Is an Angled or Straight Spotting Scope Better?

It depends how you will primarily be using your spotting scope.

If you will be using your scope to spot things above the horizon, then looking into an angled cope will be more accomodating.

It’s also easier for groups of people of varying heights to use an angled scope.

However, a straight spotting scope can be easier to spot and follow moving objects and to use from an elevated position or when mounted on a car window. Angled vs straight spotting scopes.

What do Spotting Scope Numbers Mean?

A 20-60×80 spotting scope has a magnification range between 20-60 with a 80mm objective lens.

Larger spotting scope objective lenses provide more light, but will be heavier and more expensive.

In the next section below, we discuss these features in detail.

How Do I Choose a Spotting Scope?

In deciding how to choose a spotting scope, you should consider magnification, objective lens and exit pupil size, eyepieces, FOV, optical and body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus distance, glass/prism quality, and weatherproofness.

Are Spotting Scopes Better than Binoculars?

No, they serve different functions.

Simply, if you want to see details on birds or other wildlife or any types of objects from a long distance, especially in low-light conditions, a spotting scope will give you an advantage over binoculars, unless you use high-powered binoculars that are either image-stabilized or with a tripod to help provide a steady image.

How do I choose a spotting scope for birding and other wildlife viewing?

Get a bird watching spotting scope that has at least an objective lens size of 60mm which will allow enough light to enter the scope, especially during low-light conditions.

If you want to take photos through your scope (Digiscoping), you may want a bigger ojective lense (85mm and up).

Most birders like a variable zoom lens (i.e., 20-60) vs a fixed magnification.

Best travel scope for birding?

If you are looking to get a more compact spotting scope for birding while traveling, the Celestron Hummingbird 9-27x56mm ED Micro Spotting Scope is a good choice weighing only 1.43 pounds and small enough to be carried in a coat pocket.

How to Choose a Spotting Scope

What are the best spotting scopes for birding and wildlife viewing?

Scopes can range in price from $200 to $2,000. So what’s the difference between a cheap scope and an expensive one?

Let’s start with the basics and then define and compare the different features of spotting scopes to help you decide on a purchase.

To help you with your purchase, we will discuss the following spotting scope features:

• Magnification
• Objective lens size
• Exit pupil size
• Eyepieces
• Field of view
• Optical design
• Body design
• Eye relief
• Focus mechanism
• Close focus
• Weatherproofness and
• Glass/prism quality

What is a spotting scope?

A spotting scope is a terrestrial telescope, compact and portable, designed for observing objects on or near the earth (as opposed to astronomy viewing).

Spotting scopes are essentially telescopes designed for birding or other nature observation.

How is a spotting scope different than an astronomy telescope?

A spotting scope typically has lower magnification, a wider field of view, is easily portable, field-durable and its prism provides a correctly oriented image.

Often, astronomy telescope images are upside down and reversed (mirror-image). No problem with stars, bad with birds.

It’s hard enough to ID right-side up birds. And a mirror image will just mess with your mind.

Try following a bird that looks like its moving right, when in reality it’s moving left.

Astronomy telescopes are typically designed with a longer focal length for higher magnifications, but smaller fields of view.

In birding, we don’t need astronomy-level magnification (100x+).

We like to see the details on the bird, but don’t need to see every hamuli of a feather.

And the wider field of view on spotting scopes is definitely an advantage for “spotting” the bird in the first place.

Conclusions:A good astronomy telescope won’t be good for bird watching and a birding scope won’t be good for astronomy.

You can certainly use your spotting scope to look at the night sky (good for Moon and stars), but if you really want to see spectacular details, then get an astronomy telescope. If you’re getting a telescope primarily for birding, get a spotting scope.

Why get a spotting scope? What are the advantages over binoculars?

Spotting scopes are for long-distance bird watching. They provide the magnification necessary to see distant birds and to admire details at closer ranges. They provide the means to identify birds beyond the reach of your binoculars.

Under low light conditions, scopes will give you a brighter, clearer image and the magnification needed to see more details.

All birding scopes will have a mounting plate to attach a tripod for stabilization at these higher magnifications.

There are times when your 7x-10x binoculars cannot get you close enough to see what you want.

It may be because you simply can’t get close enough with your binoculars such as viewing waterfowl in a lake, shorebirds in the mudflats, or cliff-nesting birds. Or perhaps you want a closer look, but don’t want to disturb the bird, especially sensitive species, say on a nest.

Or in open spaces, when trying to get close enough with binoculars will scare them away. With a spotting scope, you can admire birds from a distance.

Personally, we use spotting scopes often during the field season to make observations of nesting Golden Eagles and Prairie Falcons.

Many times we don’t even get out of the vehicle, but rather use a window mount to observe. We simply would not be able to observe certain adult and chick behaviors without a scope.

It’s also nice to have a spotting scope when birding in groups so that everyone can get a closer look. It’s a great way to share bird watching with beginners, especially young birders.

You can also record images and video with a spotting scope with either a regular telephoto 35mm camera, digital camera and/or video camera (see digiscoping).

Spotting Scope Features to Consider Before Purchasing

Magnification

In general, a good magnification range for your bird watching spotting scope is between 15-60x.

Below 15x, you might as well use your binoculars.

Above 60x, the field of view becomes too narrow and image brightness begins to dim, especially a problem in low light conditions.

Most often, 20-40x gives both the best field of view and image brightness for bird watching.

A point to remember: The higher the magnification, the larger the objective lens is needed to maintain image quality.

Additionally, any distortions (heat waves) or scope movement (tripod tremors) will be intensified at higher magnifications.

If you do want more magnification, remember that the quality of the lenses and prisms (which affects transmittance) become increasingly important.

Low quality lenses and prisms will produce low quality images, especially above 45x.

The highest useful magnification of your scope depends on the quality of the lenses and prisms, the objective lens size (discussed below), and outside conditions (low or bright light, haze, heat waves, etc.)

Objective Lens (Aperture)

The size of the objective lens determines the light-gathering capacity of a spotting scope.

More light = more clarity and detail which = a brighter, clearer image.

Aperture is defined as the diameter of the objective lens, usually measured in millimeters.

Bird watching objective lenses normally range between 50-80mm.

In general, a larger objective lens equals more weight and more $$.

When deciding on the objective size for your scope, get the largest objective you’re willing to pay for, but also willing to carry.

If you’re willing to carry a little extra weight, an 80mm objective lens will give you good images in nearly all light conditions, especially at higher magnifications. This is up to you.

Think about where and when you will be doing most of your birding.

If you live in Seattle (many cloudy days), go for the bigger objective lens.

If you live in a dry, sunny location, i.e. Arizona desert, and do most of your birding during the day (not dusk or dawn) and you want to carry something lighter, perhaps you could consider going a little smaller.

Exit Pupil

Along with objective lens size, the exit pupil is the best measure of image brightness.

The exit pupil is the diameter of light in millimeters visible through the eyepiece.

To calculate the exit pupil divide the objective lens size by magnification.

So the higher the magnification, the larger the objective lens needed to maintain image brightness.

As a general rule of thumb, try to get a scope where the exit pupil is 1.33mm or more.

Because in conditions besides optimal (bright, calm), an exit pupil below this will be insufficient, especially at higher magnifications.

So if you had a scope with a 20-60x zoom eyepiece, an 80mm objective lens would be suitable for all magnification ranges.

80mm (obj. lens size)/60 (highest magnification)= 1.33mm (exit pupil size).

However, a 50mm objective lens at 60x would give you an exit pupil of .83 mm (50/60=.83). Not as good, especially in lower light conditions.

Eyepieces

The eyepiece is what determines the magnification of your scope. It is also is a factor in determining field of view, exit pupil size, and eye relief.

Eyepieces sometimes are included with you scope but more often are sold separately.

Most scopes have interchangeable eyepieces, specific to manufacturer and line, allowing you to choose one or more that fits your preferences.

You can get either interchangeable fixed or single zoom (variable) eyepieces for your scope.

There are some spotting scopes, usually zooms or waterproof scopes, which have eyepieces that are non-interchangeable.

Zoom eyepieces have a range of magnification levels from low to high, usually 15-45x or 20-60x.

Birders find these very useful because they can scan at the lower magnification (wider field of view) to find the bird, then use the higher magnification to see details.

If most of your birding is done in wide open spaces, i.e. ocean seabird watching, hawk mountain ridges, then you may want to get a fixed wide-angle eyepiece which provides a wider field of view.

Or one with long eye relief (usually 25 or 27x) for those who wear eyeglasses. Or an eyepiece just for digiscoping.

Just remember to get a scope with an objective lens size that will be able to provide you with good images at all magnification ranges (review objective lens size and exit pupil size).

The quality of the eyepiece glass and design affects image quality as well. So selecting an eyepiece is just as important as selecting the scope body.

Note that manufacturers may have eyepieces that can only be used on one design line while other may be used on multiple lines.

You may want to consider this and see what eyepieces can be used on your scope if you plan on getting more than one.

Field of View

The linear field of view (FOV) is measured as the width of area visible at 1,000 yards (or meters) from the observer.

It can also be expressed in degrees as the angular field of view. Normally as magnification increases, field of view decreases.

In general, a wide field of view is better for following fast-moving objects or for scanning and finding birds in the scope.

As discussed earlier in the eyepieces section, if most of your birding is done in wide open spaces, i.e. ocean seabird watching, hawk mountain ridges, then you may want to get a fixed wide-angle eyepiece that will provide you with a wider FOV.

You will notice that when comparing a 20x fixed eyepiece with a 20-60x eyepiece that the fixed 20x will have a wider field of view than the zoom at 20x. Just a matter of design.

Optical Design

The 2 basic optical designs of scopes are refractive and catadioptric.

Nearly all birding spotting scopes are refractive.

The reason being that even though catadioptric scopes provide clearer images at higher magnification (of same weight of refractor), they cost significantly more than refractive scopes and are not as strong and durable for field use as refractive scopes.

If you want that extra bit of edge for better images, have the cash, and think your scope won’t get bumped around too much, then go for the catadioptric.

Otherwise, a refractive scope is what you want.

But remember, catadioptric scopes may have images that are vertically correct, but reverse the image left and right.

REFRACTOR CATADIOPTRIC Uses optical glass to bend light Primarily uses mirrors to reflect light Image is correct (right-side up and right to left) Image vertically correct, but reversed right to left Focal length shorter (wider field of view Focal length longer (narrower field of view More durable and field-reliable, low maintenance More fragile, but rubber armor coating can help with protection from elements Simpler design, Less expensive 3-5x more expensive than refractors Heavier Provides greater magnification than refractors of the same weight Best for for terrestrial, nature viewing, birding, hunting, outdoor viewing Best for long distance above-horizon terrestrial applications, telephotography and astronomical observing. Can use fixed or zoom eyepieces Designed to primarily use fixed eyepieces. Performance above 60x diminishes Can provide useful magnifications up to 200x

How To Choose A Spotting Scope for Birding

Here is our continuing discussion of bird watching spotting scope features and how to choose a scope.

Spotting Scopes Part I above discusses magnification, objective lens, exit pupil, eyepieces, field of view and optical design.

In Spotting Scopes Part II we will discusses body design, eye relief, focus mechanism, close focus, weather proofing, and glass composition to help you choose a spotting scope.

Spotting Scope Body Design: Straight or Angled?

There are two basic body designs of refractor spotting scopes: straight and angled.

Straight scopes have the barrel and eyepiece aligned with each other, angled scopes have the eyepiece offset 45 or 90 degrees from the barrel.

There are pros and cons for both.

Personally, we like the straight design.

It’s easier to follow birds that are moving and because we often use our spotting scope from inside the car with a window mount, a straight scope is not a problem.

Many people fine the straight line of sight is easier for accurate aiming.

A straight design is also easier to use from an elevated position.

For example, viewing your backyard birds from a second-story deck.

On the other hand, if you are tall or do a lot of birding with groups, or most of your viewing is above the horizon (looking at cliffs, viewing soaring raptors, birds on tree-tops) than perhaps an angled design would be a better choice.

It all depends how you want to use your spotting scope.

An angled scope can be shared easier than a straight scope because more people of different heights can comfortable look into the scope without adjusting the height.

Think about how you will most often be using your spotting scope. This will help you decide which design best suits your needs.

Part I Spotting Scopes 101 Part II Spotting Scopes 102 Magnification Body Design Objective Lens Eye Relief Exit Pupil Focus Mechanism Eyepieces Close Focus Field of View Weather Proofing Optical Design Glass Composition

Spotting Scope Focus Mechanism

There are 3 basic focusing mechanism designs: single knob, double knob, and helical.

If you can, try different mechanisms and see which one works best for you.

If you can’t, then choose a knob focuser which is generally preferred for bird watching and nature viewing.

Single Double Knob Helical Most common, slow but precise, not as accurate with fine focus 2 drive knobs. One knob gives fast coarse focus, other knob gives precision fine focus Slower on coarse focus, better fine focus control, works well for observing objects that are quickly changing distances, near to far Used by: Bushnell, Kowa, Pentax, Bausch & Lomb, Swift and Zeiss Used by: Leica Used by: Swarovski and Nikon

There are also rack & pinion designs which are commonly found on astronomical telescopes and usually offer fairly fast, smooth focusing, but most components are external and subject to potential deterioration from dust and moisture over time.

Spotting Scope Glass Composition/Coatings

Color aberration is sometimes noticeable with refractor scopes.

Also light transmission can be increased by reducing reflections.

This can be mostly eliminated with the right kind of glass and coatings.

Look for scopes with ED (extra-low dispersion) FL (Fluorite) HD (High Density) and/or APO (apochromatic) glass.

These elements will provide you with an image of higher clarity, detail, and sharpness which in turn will reduce eyestrain.

Of coarse scopes with these extras add extra cost.

Another factor to weigh, but you’ll be paying the cost in frustration when you can’t see those details on that special bird on an overcast (low-light) day.

Spend the extra money on your spotting scope, save by making coffee at home, renting movies, skip the fast-food, make your own x-mas or birthday presents.

Not eating french-fries for a month may buy you the feathered look of a lifetime!

Weather Proofing/Protection

Unless your scope is going to reside inside your home, weather proofing is not an option.

You never know when that rain cloud will just pop-up out of nowhere.

Look for scopes with waterproof and fogproof (nitrogen/dry gas filled) designations.

Rubber armoring is also a nice addition.

It provides protection against abrasive materials, corrosion and helps cushion the scope against unexpected impacts (oops!).

It also makes it more easier and comfortable to handle in cold, wet weather.

Spotting Scope Eye Relief

Eye relief is an important feature on for eyeglass wearers.

It is the distance in millimeters between the eyepiece of the spotting scope and your eye that still allows you to see a complete field of view image in focus.

As an eyeglass wearer your eye is further away from the spotting scope eyepiece, which means a longer eye relief is needed in order to see the entire field of view.

For most eyeglass wearers, an eye relief between 12-15mm will be adequate.

Without adequate eye relief, you won’t get a complete field of view and find you’ll need to remove your glasses in order to see the image properly.

So long eye relief promises full field viewing with eyeglasses.

As mentioned previously in the eyepiece section, there are eyepieces specifically made with long eye relief.

You may also want to select eyepieces that have folding or rollback eyecups so you can get your eyes closer.

Spotting Scope Close Focus

Close or near focus is the distance between the scope and the nearest object you can focus on, while maintaining a good image and sharp focus.

In general, as magnification increases, the minimum close focal distance also increases. So scopes will typically have longer close focus ranges than binoculars.

For bird watching, a short close focus is beneficial for seeing details of a bird that has landed up-close to your scope.

It is also better for taking photographs (see digiscoping). So if this is important to you, selecting a scope with a close distance of 15ft or less would be optimal.

Summary:Get a lightweight, strong & sturdy scope.

If it’s not lightweight, it will be uncomfortable to carry around.

And if it’s not well built with strong housing, the first time it gets bumped when you’re frantically grabbing it from your back seat to see that lifetime peep (a.k.a sandpiper), you may be very disappointed when the focus doesn’t focus.

You get what you pay for – so don’t go cheap. Cheeps are for the birds.

So as with anything else, weigh the cost against the benefits, and get the best spotting cope you can afford.

If you can’t afford a Swarovski, Leica or Zeiss (top-end, most expensive manufacturers) then look at others such as Kowa, Nikon or Pentax which can have just as good designs, but be significantly lower priced.

And don’t forget to leave money in your budget for a sturdy tripod to support your scope, otherwise it’s like putting a Mercedes on golf cart tires.

Spotting Scope Basics

Hope you’ve enjoyed this review of spotting scope basics and we wish you the best in finding that perfect scope.

Digiscoping – Photography with spotting scopes

How to Choose Bird Watching Binoculars

Bird Watching Binoculars 101

Best Binoculars for Bird Watching

Types of Binoculars

High Power Binoculars – sometimes can be used as an alternative to spotting scopes if used with a tripod or monopod.

Jason Binoculars – Auto Focusing Binoculars

Best Zoom Binoculars

Best Mini Binoculars

Infrared Binoculars

Best Marine Binoculars

Cornell’s Review of Birding Spotting Scopes

Last Updated on April 25, 2024

When I speak of my experience with squirrel hunting, I frequently receive strange looks from hunters who aren’t used to this particular type of small game.

However, squirrel hunting is pretty popular across the southeastern USA and other regions.

Good squirrel hunting dogs are essential for squirrel hunting, and while any dog can act as a squirrel dog, some dog breeds are born for this job.

History: What kind of dog is a Squirrel dog?

This is a dog breed trained to hunt squirrels scenting, tracking, and treeing them. While many household pets instinctively chase squirrels, they’re not trained to hunt them.

Even untrained canines chase after small animals with passion, which makes many people think that dogs hate squirrels. They’re just merely acting on their instincts to hunt.

Some breeds don’t have a strong prey drive, especially if they grew up with cats or other pets. Dogs and squirrels can even be friends! Just take a look at this video:

This is rare because most dogs chase squirrels without hesitation. This trait is handy in places where wild game and big game are hunted for food like venison and rabbit.

Did you know that squirrels have been a part of our diet for a long time? They say squirrel meat isn’t only sustainable, but it’s also tasty and healthy.

What is the best breed of dog for Squirrel hunting?

I am a subscriber of the theory that any dog can be trained to hunt, but some have better hunting instincts, so they’re easier to train.

The supreme squirrel dog breeds are Terriers, including those breeds with a bit of Terrier in their bloodlines, such as curs and feists.

Some people consider them mutts but these dogs are usually standardized and are bred for hunting bushytails for generations.

Good squirrel dogs are intelligent and have a strong prey drive, but they also need a great nose to be able to “wind” squirrels, meaning to detect squirrels by scent, through air currents.

Once the dog catches the squirrel, visually or by scent, it has to be able to follow it by sound.

They also need stamina and agility to keep up with their prey, the ability to tree the squirrel, and the willingness to stay treed until the hunter arrives.

1. Airedale Terrier

The Airedale Terrier, also known as Waterside Terrier and Bingley Terrier, is a dog breed from England with distinguished hunting instincts, and it’s one the largest terriers.

The colossal size, along with intelligence and treeing ability, makes this dog the “King of Terriers” and an excellent squirrel dog.

2. American Blue Gascon Hound

The Grand Bleu de Gascogne or Big Blu is a loyal, protective breed known as a passionate hunter for raccoons and squirrels. Its loud baying and treeing ability separate him from other squirrel dogs.

3. Black and Tan Coonhound

Derived from a foxhound and a bloodhound, this breed is well-known for its long ears and black and tan coat.

The Black and Tan Coonhounds are talented for many things, including tracking and treeing small and big game species.

4. Finnish Spitz

Known by many names, such as Finsk Spets, Lulou Finnoi, and Suomenpystykorva, this dog breed looks similar to foxes with its long and fluffy reddish coat.

The Finish Spitz is famous for its vocal ability and hunting prowess, including big and small animals alike.

5. Fox Terrier

Fox Terriers come in two variations, with the only difference being the type of coat – these are Wire Fox Terrier and Smooth Fox Terrier.

These smart dogs are mostly known for hunting foxes even though they excel at squirrel hunting too.

6. Mountain Cur

Also referred to as Original Mountain Cur, this breed arrived in America from Europe, and it is one of the most adaptable hunting breeds.

They were bred explicitly for treeing and hunting small game, but they are often used for baying big animals and as water dogs.

7. Norwegian Elkhound

The Norweigan Elkhound, which is the National Dog of Norway and rarely found in the USA, is also called Norsk Elghund Gra and Norsk Elghund Sort.

It is a Spitz type of breed known for hunting, herding, and protecting people and property.

8. Rat Terrier

The Rat Terrier is an American small dog breed used predominantly for hunting rodents like rats and squirrels.

They are infamous farm dogs, which is why they are considered a rare breed today with the diminishment of family farms.

9. Treeing Cur

These medium-sized size dogs have no restrictions regarding colors and markings, making it easier for breeders to focus on their hunting prowess.

Treeing Curs are fast, intelligent, and agile, and their treeing ability makes them quintessential for squirrel hunting.

10. West Siberian Laika

The West Siberian Laika is also known as Zapadno-Sibirskaia Laika and WSL, and it is a dog that looks a lot like a Husky and has a bit of wolf in the bloodline.

They are bark pointers, which is precisely the trait that squirrel dogs need to possess. These dogs are great hunters, but they can also be aggressive towards other pets and strangers.

11. Beagle

Beagles are remarkable companions and family pets that also possess exceptional scenting ability since they were bred as scenthounds for tracking small game, like rabbits, hare, and squirrels.

12. Jack Russell Terrier

Originally developed to hunt foxes, this small English breed is also known as the Parson Russell Terrier. They have considerable energy, so it can be challenging to keep up with them.

A well-trained Jack Russell Terrier is a great hunting dog with unparalleled agility and hunting instincts.

13. Border Collie

Although Border Collies are famous as sheep-herding dogs, they can also become great at squirrel hunting since they are highly trainable and clever.

With their unlimited amounts of energy, exceptional stamina and agility, and highly developed sense of smell, Collies can be used for hunting any wild game.

14. Kemmer Cur

Kemmer Cur is also known as the Kemmer Stock Hybrid Dog or Cajun Squirrel Dog.

This hybrid dog is almost indistinguishable from the Mountain Cur since they come from the same bloodline and they are equally adept at squirrel hunting.

15. Black Mouth Cur

Easily recognizable due to its black muzzle and golden brown coat, the Black Mouth Cur is a loyal, affectionate pet and a fearless hunter.

These dogs are strong, adaptable, and highly intelligent, with a great ability for treeing.

16. Bluetick Coonhound

The beautiful Bluetick Coonhound is a large dog breed named for its mottled or ticked coat pattern of black and blue.

These dogs are muscled but also sleek and athletic, incredibly vocal, and with a high prey drive that needs to be adequately channeled.

17. Denmark Feist

This is a medium-sized breed that is a hybrid of Mountain Feists, along with Thornburg Feist, Kemmer Feist, and a few others.

Also called Denmark Treeing Feist or DenMark Treeing Feist, this dog is a champion when it comes to hunting small critters like squirrels and raccoons.

18. Leopard Cur

Perhaps better known as the American Leopard Hound, this breed is one of the most versatile hunters out there. It is a medium to large dog that is highly energetic and outstandingly adaptable to weather conditions.

19. Treeing Tennessee Brindle

The Treeing Tennessee Brindle is a type of cur dog that has a proficient nose and a powerful voice. These dogs are sturdy, intelligent, and dependable, with short and smooth brindle coats.

When should you start training a squirrel dog?

Squirrel dog training should start while they’re young, preferably three to six months of age.

It’s best to develop a bond with your fido as early as possible, and you can teach him basic commands that will be useful while hunting.

Take this time to introduce your pup to squirrels by tying a squirrel tail at the end of a stick or pole.

This will help him get familiar with the scent, then tie it to a tree to encourage him to bark whenever he’s treeing squirrels. Some owners use live bait.

Hunters have a saying: “A dog can’t learn to hunt in the kennel.” That means you have to take your dog for a live pursuit.

Start in an area with plenty of squirrels so that it’s easy for your dog and it will raise his confidence. Then try different locations later on.

Keep the sessions short and positive to produce the best results as a dog trainer.

How to Successfully Squirrel Hunt with Dogs?

Squirrel hunting may sound simple – follow your dog while he locates the tree where a squirrel is hiding, or chase one up a tree – but in reality, it’s more complicated.

Before anything else, you should know that some squirrels are harder to spot, like gray squirrels.

You should also have a canine companion with a great nose to determine where the squirrel exactly is before you shoot it.

It’s also best that you learn these hunting terms before you and your squirrel dog hang out with fellow hunters:

• Bark Treed – The sound that a dog makes when he locates the squirrel in a tree
• Timbering – A term for a squirrel running through the trees, trying to escape
• Toenailed – When a dog pins the squirrel by positioning himself on the bark of a tree
• Has the Meat – When a squirrel is confirmed on the tree
• Range – The distance between the hunter and the dog while searching for a squirrel

Frequently Asked Questions About Squirrel Dogs

What Time of Day Are Squirrels Most Active?

Squirrels are usually active all day, particularly in the fall and spring when they look for food. However, they are most active during dusk and dawn.

What Happens When a Dog Catches a Squirrel?

Well-trained squirrel dogs will kill the squirrel when they catch it, but they will not eat it. Untrained dogs might eat the squirrel after they catch it.

Will My Dog Get Sick from Eating a Squirrel?

If the squirrel is freshly killed, and your dog is healthy and on parasite control, he will most likely be fine. However, squirrels are hosts to many parasites, so the risk of transmission always exists.

What Diseases Can Squirrels Transmit to Dogs?

Some of the more common diseases transmitted from squirrels to dogs include plague, rabies, and Lyme disease. In some parts of the United States, squirrels can also carry a deadly disease called Leptospirosis.

Can a Squirrel Kill a Dog?

Squirrels can harm your canine with their sharp teeth and claws, but a dog getting killed by a squirrel is highly unlikely and borders on impossible.

Should I Let My Dog Chase Squirrels?

Unless you are training your dog for squirrel hunting, you should discourage such dangerous behavior in public places.

How Do I Stop My Dog from Chasing Squirrels?

Starting obedience training when the dog is young can be very helpful when you try to control his hunting instincts. Get your dog to concentrate on you during walks.

How Much Does a Good Squirrel Dog Cost?

Squirrel dogs from a good stock cost $100 to $200, but you can buy experienced treeing dogs with a price range of $500 to $5,000.

These amounts depend on the dog’s age, gender, whether it was trained, and if it’s squirrel season.

Verdict: Should you get a Squirrel Dog?

If you plan to go squirrel hunting, it is critical to have a good squirrel dog and know how to utilize him.

Otherwise, it might be preferable to choose another breed – squirrel dogs are tremendously energetic and require a job to be healthy and satisfied.

Are you an avid squirrel hunter? Do you have something to add or contribute to more training tips? Let us know in the comments.

Reference

• https://www.cdc.gov/leptospirosis/pets/infection/index.html

You’re alone in the comfort of your home, so naturally, you let one rip. No shame. But the smell of your own fart is taking over, and the stench is creeping up and suffocating you. Now you’re trapped in your own foul odor – this wasn’t expected! Why is this fart disgusting, when others pass without making their presence known?

Then, as if the heavens parted, the stench disappears. You look around, double-checking that no one is home, then go back to your normal life, safe from suffocation by flatulence.

Why did your fart smell like rotten eggs at the bottom of a New York City trash heap? Was it something you ate? Is there something wrong with you, internally? Do you have a superpower you didn’t know existed? Dr. Myron Brand, a gastroenterologist at Connecticut Gastroenterology Consultants, helps set the facts straight.

YOU. You have the power to control your own gruesome odor by what you eat – not all farts are created equal. Some smell like bitter alcohol, others smell like three-month-old expired broccoli, and many smell like the aforementioned rotten eggs.

“Smelly odor is not bad, it’s just a function of what you’re eating and what your bacteria is doing inside your gastrointestinal tract. Everyone is different,” Dr. Brand explains. “Foul smell just means the carbohydrates you consume are being malabsorbed – it’s fermented.”

Ironically, the healthier the food you eat, the worse the smell. Fiber-rich foods, such as broccoli, Brussels sprouts, and quinoa, boost gut bacteria, and in return cause you to naturally pass gas. Foods with high sulfur composition, such as red meat, milk, or plant-based proteins, are the culprits of producing the foul odor. When we feed the bacteria in our gut high-protein foods, they produce a sulfur gas, which makes your farts noxious, says Dr. Brand.

“The end product of fermentation in our gastrointestinal tract is gas – carbon dioxide, hydrogen, or methane. And it’s all made from bacteria fermentation.”

But hey, it’s a small price to pay for being healthy… or is it?

When the bacteria in your gut break down all that food into hydrogen sulfide, then you produce that ghastly rotten egg fart smell.

“Some people are methane producers, and some people are hydrogen sulfide producers – which causes flatulence to smell like rotten egg. It’s all a function of what you eat,” adds Dr. Brand, helpfully reminding you that eating a steady diet of cabbage and cheeseburgers is bad on virtually every level. The common thread between rotten eggs and farts is the sulfur; if you’ve ever been to natural springs that emit sulfurous gasses, you probably recognized the stench. It may be the only thing your butt, eggs, and natural hot springs have in common.

If you have to choose based solely on how much you’ll fart, Dr. Brand recommends going high-protein. “Proteins won’t cause a lot of gas, but carbohydrates will.”

There are more extreme measures you can take, too, though it’s important to understand that what works (or goes horribly wrong) for you may do the opposite in someone else. “As a doctor, you try to manipulate this occurrence with things like the FODMAP diet or probiotics,” Dr. Brand says, which is a science-y way of saying every person is different and it’s a bit of a guessing game as to which foods make one person rip silent-but-deadlies and another go about their day without emitting a hint of methane.

The low-FODMAP diet he mentions is one that limits certain types of carbohydrates that have a tendency to ferment in your gut and, as you now know, produce rancid gas. This diet is tough to follow, since it eliminates seemingly healthy foods like onions and asparagus, so it’s typically used only for people with serious gastrointestinal distress. If your flatulence is really an issue, work with a gastroenterologist or dietitian to pinpoint which carbohydrates are the cause of your discomfort or bloating. You can also check this quick primer on high-FODMAP foods vs. low-FODMAP foods, with low-FODMAP foods being the ones less likely to ferment.

Eh, not really, unless you surround yourself with people who judge you solely based on your farts, in which case you might want to rethink your friend group. You live in a symbiotic relationship with your gut bacteria – you have to feed them if you want to achieve optimal health. The average (healthy) person farts 10-20 times a day. So farting is normal.

If you continually drive people away with your potent superpower, though, it may be time to see a professional. Usually, though, a fart is a fart is a fart that won’t kill you. “Unless it’s excessive, because that’s a sign that you’re malabsorbing and not digesting carbohydrates,” you’re probably fine moving on with your life, Dr. Brand advises.

Nope. It just means you’re eating food and digesting it well – and there’s more room on the outside than on the inside.

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Each year since 1992, Deer & Deer Hunting has provided both Southern and Northern readers with the “Whitetail Rut-Predictor.” This system has been featured in several D&DH articles by late contributing editor Charles J. Alsheimer.

The Whitetail Rut-Predictor is also included in our annual wall calendar, which still features Alsheimer’s photography. The predictor lets you plan when, where and how to hunt.

The rut follows predictable stages of deer behavior. These changes dictate the effectiveness of hunting strategies. Scrape-hunting, for example, might be effective when bucks seek does, but it won’t work later in the rut when most does are already bred or being tended.

Not every buck exhibits the predicted primary behavior on a given date. Several factors, including age, nutrition, health and genetics, can affect the time and extent to which bucks exhibit a behavior. The Whitetail Rut-Predictor represents peaks in the activities (orange and blue symbols) and “minors” of secondary activity (black symbols).

The primary rut behaviors predicted in this calendar are “seeking,” “chasing” and “tending.” Feeding is a buck’s primary pre-rut activity. To take advantage of this, place stands near deer travel routes and feeding areas.

The top chart predicts the 2022 rutting intensity for the North. It’s important to note that the seeking, chasing and tending lines do not work independently of each other. Rather, they work together and should be viewed as one blending into the next as the rut progresses. The chart below predicts the South’s 2022 rutting activity.

Seeking Behavior

The onset of each rut period is marked by a sudden increase in buck activity as bucks seek does. The trigger is not exactly known, but it might be a chemical signal from does approaching estrus.

Intense seeking activity makes for great stand-hunting. Bucks in this mode are also vulnerable to calling, rattling, scents and decoys. These bucks will often skirt the edges of swamps and forest transitions.

Chasing Behavior

Chasing begins when a buck locates a doe near estrus. As the buck approaches, the doe runs, but not in all-out flight. She soon slows or pauses to look back for the buck, which won’t seek other does, and continues in pursuit. The buck occasionally catches up and tries to corner the doe. This can result in a long chase that continues until the doe lets the buck accompany her.

Stand- and still-hunting in a near-estrous doe’s home range can be productive, because several bucks could enter the chase.

Tending Behavior

After a doe allows a buck to accompany her, tending begins. He beds and moves with the doe until she is bred. Tending, which ends abruptly, usually lasts about 24 hours. After the doe is bred, the buck again seeks other does and the cycle resumes.

Tracking can be effective for hunting a buck tending a doe. Bucks also respond to grunt calls, because they seek to drive off other bucks. However, don’t expect a buck to go far from a hot doe to visit scrapes and scents.

Contributing Factors

Bucks in healthy herds with a balanced sex and age structure have well-defined social orders. In herds in which bucks reach 5-plus years of age, dominant bucks do most of the breeding. As the herd’s age structure is skewed toward young bucks, the youngsters become increasingly involved in the rut and breeding. As the doe-to-buck ratio approaches 1:1, seeking behavior and interactions between bucks are maximized. As the doe-to-buck ratio skews toward does, bucks spend less time seeking because females are readily available.

Seeking behavior begins abruptly and kicks off the rut about the time of the full moon, but not just any full moon, because day length is also involved. As chasing and tending increases, seeking behavior declines. Seeking can be expected any time during the rut when a buck finishes chasing or tending a doe. The peak of seeking occurs just before the peak of tending and breeding. Tending behavior and breeding peaks about the time of the new moon during the rut. The rut seems to end as quickly as it begins.

Effects of Latitude

The wobbling cycle of the Earth on its axis as it circles the sun causes seasonal changes by varying the amount of sunlight.

The link between diminishing day length and the rut’s onset is clear. However, it’s not simple. The breeding season is most intense and concentrated at Northern latitudes where the difference between day length in summer and winter is greatest. The breeding season lengthens the nearer deer live to the equator. This partly explains why the Southern rut appears more varied.

Effects of Weather

Activities on the Whitetail Rut-Predictor calendar might occur several days early because weather can affect daylight amounts. Dense clouds shorten day length 15 to 20 minutes, and decrease moonlight intensity. Rain and snow block sunlight and moonlight by defraction and diffusion, preventing moonlight from reaching the ground. Storms can shorten daylight about 30 minutes and obscure almost all moonlight.

Intense rutting activity is often associated with storm fronts in South Texas and other Southern states, but not in Northern states. This activity is often attributed to low air temperatures or barometric changes, but light likely plays a major role. Air temperatures exceeding 55 degrees Fahrenheit usually decrease deer activity.

The Predictor’s Basis

The Rut-Predictor is based on a model that links cyclical changes in the Earth’s solar and lunar illumination to the whitetail’s reproductive cycle. It is hypothesized that sunlight and moonlight provide environmental cues that set, trigger and synchronize breeding.

A computer model was developed that uses astronomical data, field observations of rutting activities and measurements of light intensity to predict rut activity.

The Rut-Predictor hypothesis differs from conventional views. The general belief is that peak breeding north of the Mason-Dixon Line occurs each year about Nov. 15. However, it has been observed that rut activity often falls to nearly zero by mid-November. The timing of peak rut activity could vary year to year by as much as three weeks at any given location.

If the moon is the timing mechanism for the estrous cycle, what sensory pathway in deer receives the cue? External stimuli fall into three primary categories: physical, chemical and biological. The great distance between Earth and the moon rules out any regular 28-day exchange of sounds, scents, or chemical and biological materials deer can detect.

The moon affects the Earth’s gravitational fluctuations and nighttime illumination. Both factors create external stimuli that deer might detect. However, little evidence suggests deer or other creatures directly detect gravitational forces. Responses to those fluctuations are probably indirect. As a result, gravity’s effects were rejected as a stimulus for timing the whitetail’s estrous cycle.

Moonlight can be detected, especially by whitetails, which have eyes adapted for low-light vision. Light passing into the eye strikes the nerve-rich area in the back of the eye, causing electrical impulses to pass along the nervous system to various organs. Some impulses pass to the pineal gland in the center of the brain, providing input to the endocrine system. The pineal gland and related hormones are involved in or regulate the reproductive cycle. The pineal gland responds to light by increasing (with diminishing light) or decreasing (with increasing light) production of a hormone called melatonin. This increases/decreases other hormones.

The fact that moonlight changes the Earth’s illumination on a cycle similar to the whitetail’s 28-day estrous cycle, the fact that whitetails have a sensory system that can detect moonlight, and the fact that the whitetail’s endocrine system responds to light stimuli by altering levels of reproductive hormones argue against coincidence.

Testing the Rut-Predictor

The Rut-Predictor has been well tested. For example, when whitetails from the United States have been brought to the Southern Hemisphere, where seasons are reversed, they shift from a November rut to a May rut. This is also reinforced by the fact whitetails in equatorial regions breed asynchronously throughout the year.

Alsheimer’s 20-plus years of work on this subject had him convinced that he was onto something.

“Interestingly, the only way to disprove this theory is to witness behavior that contradicts it, such as seeing most does breed within seven days of a first quarter moon,” Alsheimer said. “Failure to observe predicted behavior, however, proves nothing, as it might be caused by unrelated factors, such as poor visibility, bad weather or low deer numbers.”

Conclusion

To help predict breeding behaviors for your area, keep a daily log of fresh rubs and scrapes you and your hunting partners observe. For added accuracy, quantify your effort by recording how many hours of hunting are associated with your counts.

— Editor’s note: It is important to note that peak tending (breeding) oftentimes occurs well after the peak rut activity that’s observed by hunters across North America.

D+DH In-Depth is our premium, comprehensive corner on America’s No. 1 game animal. In this graduate-level course, we’ll teach you about deer biology, behavior, and ultimately, how to become a better hunter. Want to be the first to get our premium content? Become a D+DH Insider for FREE!

Once again this year, every lilac in Southcentral seems to be showing signs of the latest surprise invasion. They are each harboring lilac leaf miners. Those brown patches on most leaves contain a caterpillar, one of the life stages of the pest. These eat tissue between the leaves and then use a silk thread to roll up the leaf and create a cocoon so they can pupate.

After a week, the caterpillars are transformed into small, fingernail-size moths. You may have seen them on your lawns. These will lay eggs, which will hatch into caterpillars, and the cycle will repeat. I am not sure how many cycles these moths have here in the summer, but elsewhere there are several. Let’s keep an eye on untouched leaves for the rest of the season and see what happens. Citizen science at work.

Fortunately, we are getting flowers before the leaf damage is visible. And, usually these kinds of population explosions work themselves out as natural predators take care of the problem. I have my fingers crossed.

Perhaps it is best to just see if nature will do her thing. Still, will someone remind me to suggest spraying lilacs with Bt next year just before these guys start eating? You might consider spraying this year if your leaves have not rolled up. And, you can squish the brown patches, but you will be working all day to do just one decent-size shrub.

Speaking of leaves, slugs are always around once eggs hatch early in the season. They have just gotten big enough lately to be seen easily. You know the routine. Trap them outside your gardens with beer or yeast in shallow containers they can get into and drown.

Every year I am asked if our slugs can be eaten. They can, but be careful, as slugs can carry a parasite gained from eating rodent feces which causes a form of meningitis in the human brain. If you are going to eat your slugs, you have to cook them. You also might want to purge their waste systems. I don’t recommend the practice. There are plenty of other strange things to eat out there.

Like mushrooms! The wet weather has caused the annual August explosion of fungi. I shouldn’t have to tell you to not eat any you cannot identify — just like no one needs to tell you to mask up because you already do — but I will! You need a good mycological identification book and, preferably a real experienced guide as well before you eat even the four or so that are all over, easily identified and delicious.

Some folks expend a lot of energy picking them. I leave my mushrooms in place. They are fruits of an extensive underground network, and you are not going to eradicate them. In fact, you don’t want to! Most of the mushrooms that pop up this time of year are fruiting bodies of the vast mycorrhizal fungal network that is feeding our trees. Those amanita? They support the birches in your yard.

You may not know that moose love mushrooms. So do squirrels and other animals. Treat them like summer bird feeders, only look for mammals.

Two question about the ability to grow peonies from seeds collected from plants that are now beginning to produce pods. What a loaded question!

First, seeds are not ready yet. Let the pods develop and collect them in September. These may or may not be true to the parent because they may have cross-pollinated with a different type.

Outside, these seeds are planted in a bed someplace that can be watched and maintained for the four-year-or-so wait for a decent plant. The seeds need a couple of warm months and then the chill of winter. We may or may not get enough warm time before winter here, so you can plant them indoors starting in October.

And finally, should you cut back peony plants to prevent diseases? First, of all, don’t do anything right now. Let your plants continue to grow and feed the root system. I know the standard advice is to remove peony leaves from the garden in the fall. I never have and have not had problems. If you do remove the leaves, make sure to mulch the remains to replace what you took away, and mark where the plant is so you will know next spring. Without this year’s stems it may be hard to find.

Jeff’s Alaska garden calendar

Alaska Botanical Garden: I know you read this, but have you joined, checked the website, gone to a Thursday socially distant picnic and generally taken advantage of this great institution? You should. alaskabg.org

Lawn pattern contest: Keep those wonderful lawn pattern photos coming in. It is not too late to mow a pattern into your lawn. Winner gets an autographed copy of one of my books.

Tomatoes and cucumbers: Cloudy, raining days mean no pollination, unless you be the bee.

Kohlrabi: How long are you going to wait to harvest yours? Baseball, not softball size is the way to go.

Butter and eggs: Their flowers are opening. When you encounter them, pick and remove from the landscape.

Dahlias, delphiniums: Stake yours. Those flowers are heavy when wet.

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