Whitetail deer might seem like quiet creatures, but in fact they communicate vocally quite a bit. However, different deer noises may all sound the same or very similar to the untrained ear. The truth is, deer’s different vocalizations have lots of different meanings—all of which you need to learn in order to become a better hunter. Here’s what you need to know.

How Learning Deer Sounds Helps Your Hunt

Understanding the behavioral intricacies of whitetail deer is no easy feat. These language complexities make hunting deer both fun and challenging. Fortunately, humans have been studying all of these vocalizations for years for both hunting and conservation purposes, which has led to a better understanding of what each noise means. We now can now decipher micro variations in dialect, giving us a deeper sense of what deer are trying to say.

Without question, learning these different vocalizations and what they mean will make you a better hunter. Learning the sounds deer make can make you that much better at deer calling. But it also helps you to understand why deer act the way they do in certain situations. Knowing how to identify the four common sounds deer make, what each deer sound means, and what prompted the deer to make it, will help make you a better hunter in the long run.

Deer Sound #1: Grunts and Growls

A grunting sound is easily the most common vocalization hunters will hear in the deer woods. The grunt is a standard form of communication, but there are a few different variations of grunts that all have slightly different sounds.

If you spend enough time in a blind or a stand watching adult deer and hear these grunts and observe the behavior that follows, eventually you start to make sense of the context of the situation, and you start to understand the nuances between common sounds and the different sounds that deer make—and begin to emulate them. You can emulate all of these sounds with a grunt call, which is particularly effective when a buck is riled up. Effective calling and timing of those sounds will bring a buck right to you.

The most common deer grunt is a low and quick “urp” sound, which is what’s called a contact grunt or social grunt. Both male deer and female deer use these grunts to announce their presence in an area and identify themselves to other deer, almost like saying, “Hello, I’m here.” They sound a little different between the sexes, but both serve as a way of establishing a social hierarchy.

The Doe Grunt

A doe grunt is one of the common sounds deer make. A doe grunt is much higher sound than that of a buck. Female deer have smaller bodies, and just like in humans, this results in a shorter airway. Does use grunts in a slightly different way than bucks do. Does don’t really grunt to show dominance, but more so to communicate with one another. Deer are highly social, and they try to gather together when they can, so a grunt is the deer’s way of telling others it’s around and ready to mingle, so to speak. The mothers also grunt to call the fawns if it’s feeding time or if they’re moving to a new location, almost like a mother raising her voice to her children.

I couldn’t count the number of times I’ve watched does feeding right out in front of me, only to start sparring with the younger deer and chasing them off. The whole time, the more mature doe was making this grunt noise, which became deeper, raspier, and more aggressive as she asserted more dominance.

The Buck Grunt

A buck grunt is a different sound that is a little deeper and guttural than that of a doe, which produce more of a higher, nasally sound. Bucks make a loud grunting sound to show their dominance. While all deer make soft, long grunts to call to one another, the deep, short grunt of the buck is the male claiming does and territory.

When most of us think of buck sounds, our mind gravitates to buck grunts. We think of that echoing, saliva-inducing sound that only comes from a buck during the rut. However, there’s again a wide range of variations, but all of them are unique to the peak of hunting season.

While bucks will use short grunts to stake out their territory and intimidate rivals, they sometimes use the same sound to establish dominance when chasing does, which many often call “trailing grunts.” The sound is virtually unmistakable and enough to get any hunter’s blood pumping, as it means only one thing: a buck is coming in hot on a doe’s trail, so get ready for action. The sound itself is somewhat of an excited “urp-urp-urp-rup” along with the ruckus of crunching leaves and cracking branches.

The Tending Grunt

Another type of deer grunt is a tending grunt. A tending grunt is a deer call made by bucks when they are following a doe during rut and want to mate. The tending grunt is a deep guttural call made of long, drawn-out notes, softly, without aggression or loudness—a guttural “urrrrrrrrrp” sound, which often includes a mix of short grunt sounds, too, all of which signify ownership to a doe, as well as other interested bucks. Big bucks use this grunt to assert their dominance, frustration, and let everyone in the area know what they are after. They also use it to ask the doe to stop so they can breed.

The Buck Growl

Slightly less common is the “buck bawl,” “growl,” “rage grunt,” “breeding bellow,” or “buck roar,” all of which are different names for the sound big bucks make when an estrous doe is near. Noticeably lower and a tad eerie, this guttural vocalization doesn’t even sound like it’s coming from a deer. The video above is a perfect example of just that. Rutting bucks make this sound when they’re frustrated—which is exactly what it sounds like—because they’re lonely or a doe hasn’t allowed them to breed yet.

A number of grunt calls have hit the market in recent years to create a version of this sound, but it’s a difficult one to pull off, and thus should be reserved for experienced callers. Without the perfect pitch and cadence, you’ll run the risk of scaring away bucks instead of attracting them. However, if you’re looking for a new challenge, or if you feel like you’re grasping for a new approach after failing with some of your default calls, it’s worth a try.

Deer Sound #2: Bleats

Doe bleats, much like grunts, have numerous variations, all dependent on a given situation. Like deer grunts, bleats happen in a variety of situations and each different sound has its own meaning.

A common doe bleat happens in social situations. The bleat is a higher-pitched vibrating sound, similar to that of a goat. They mostly do it when they are gathered together or with their fawns, and it signals contentment.

Bleat calls are interesting. Much like grunts, it seems bleats have many different meanings depending on the situation. First there are estrus doe bleats, which they make when they’re in heat but there aren’t any bucks around. The intensity of this sound comes down to how long the doe has gone without a suitor. Most of the can-style calls you can buy on the market are designed to resemble a more desperate mating call but does use bleats all year long for various purposes, one of which is to communicate with their fawns.

Additionally, fawn bleating can be a distress call. It’s this reason we hear this sound used for coyote hunting, as the agonizing sound triggers nearby predators who might be looking for an easy meal.

Deer Sound #3: Snort-Wheeze

A common sound deer make is the deer snort, or snort wheeze. The snort-wheeze is an intimidation call and one that’s just not a sound or deer call one hears very often. This one has a sound like the deer is trying to clear some stuffed-up sinuses. This is the call mature bucks like to use in the pre-rut and rut when they want to intimidate a rival away from their does. Hunters could potentially hear this one when there are two bucks in the same area during that prime time.

This deer snort call sounds exactly like it is described. It’s a short, loud sniff or snorting sound followed by a long wheeze. It’s a different sound than the common deer grunts and bleats hunters usually hear in the woods.

It’s also worth noting that bucks sometimes use the two parts of the snort wheeze on their own. For a large, dominant buck, they might only need to give a single snort to send a younger rival packing. Whatever sound they use, if you see and hear a buck making these sounds, do a scan of your surroundings. It is likely there is another buck in the area that you haven’t

Deer Sound #3: Blowing

One common sound that deer make, especially does, is blowing. Blowing is an alarm sound often accompanied by stomping. If you’re new to hunting, this is the most likely deer vocalization you will hear first. Veteran hunters know what I’m talking about. There are several stages to a doe sensing danger, and the annoying thing is, every one of them escalates as they warn other deer in the area that something just isn’t right.

Big, mature does especially are the ones you’ll hear blowing the most. These does are the wise old matriarchs of their group, and they’re always on the lookout for danger. Their instinct is to protect the baby deer in the group. Usually, if a doe spots you, it’ll start out with a stare-down, then the doe will start stomping her feet.

The foot stomping says to other deer, “Hey, something isn’t right here, be on alert!” Once the doe is certain there’s danger, she’ll loudly start blowing. It’s a very shrill sound, almost like a whistle. If it makes you jump when you hear it, that’s what the doe intended.

Once a doe starts making this sound, it’s gameover for your hunt. Does who have been spooked will often run off while continuing to make the sound as they vanish out of sight. This is the one call you don’t want to hear or emulate!

Deer Sound #4: Sniffs

Whitetail deer have an amazing sense of smell. If a deer begins to sense something is off, they may start sniffing the air, sometimes quite aggressively. Not only are they trying to get a better smell, but they’re also alerting the rest of the herd. The sniff doesn’t sound much different than a human sniff, only stronger and deeper. Imagine air being sucked in through a deer’s large nose.

READ MORE: Do Deer Eat Meat? Examining This Strange Phenomenon

Broadsword takes the Barnes bullet for a spin. Is the original copper projectile that kicked off the lead-free revolution still the best?

Next in our line of lead-free bullet tests are the .30 cals on offer from Barnes in their Triple Shock X bullet range, which was introduced in 2003. These offer an all-copper bullet with a traditional hollow-point design in the TSX format, or faster expanding projectiles with the newer TTSX bullets with their polymer tip and larger hollow point format. Barnes offer a very good range of both bullet styles as well as variety of calibres, so there is something for everyone and every rifle type.

As usual we are trying to find a sweet spot where the lead-free bullets perform the same ballistically down range as traditional lead-cored bullets of the same weight, thus giving the shooter a viable lead-free option when the time comes – if you can get any!

Bullet specificationsThe TSX and TTSX bullets are not the same dimensionally. Different bullet lengths have implications on load density and accuracy as well as overall cartridge length, but we will discuss that in future articles. At present I am trying to load like for like to see the similarities and differences.

TSXThis is the original Triple Shock-style bullet from Barnes, with an all-copper construction available in flat base and boat tail designs. The 110gr TSX weighs 110.2gr, is 0.9540″ long, 0.3070″ in diameter, and has two smooth cannelure/pressure rings called Accu-Grooves and a flat base. The hollow point is very neat and uniform, and when sectioned can be seen to extend 0.4250″ into the bullet – but it is very narrow, as is the opening. This bullet has a sectional density (SD) of 0.166 and ballistic coefficient (BC) of 0.264, with an overall length of 0.955″.The 130gr TSX weighs 130.6gr, is 1.0860″ long with the same 0.3070″ diameter, Accu-Grooves and hollow point design, but this time with a slight boat-tail base. The SD is good at 0.196, as is the BC at 0.340 G1 – a very nice blend of values.The 150gr TSX as expected is 1.2365″ long, with a more obvious boat tail, and the same hollow point and diameter as the others, but with three Accu-Grooves to relieve stress/friction and fouling. A decent SD of 0.226 helps penetration and the BC of 0.369 value helps retain energy with a more streamlined flight.

TTSXThis is essentially the TSX bullet with an added tip for better aerodynamics, hence the enhanced BC values as well as better terminal expansion with its redesigned nose cavity.There is a 130gr TTSX bullet option but I could not get any for the tests. The 110gr TTSX weighs 110.4gr and is 1.0425″ long with a diameter of 0.3060″. It has a flat base, two Accu-Grooves and a large blue polymer tip 0.1825″ long and 0.1465″ in diameter, giving a better overall hollow point than the TSX bullet. When sectioned, the bullets have a larger hollow point channel for nearly half their overall length. The sectional density is the same as in the TSX with the same weight obviously but the BC has increased to 0.295 due to the more streamline tipped bullet meplat.The TTSX 150gr bullet weighs 151.0gr and is 1.3015″ long and again slimmer than the TSX bullets at 0.3060″, which is slightly curious. There are Accu-Grooves, resulting in three distinct riding rings and there is a shallow boat tail and the same polymer tip as on the 110gr TTSX. The 110gr TTSX’s SD of 0.226 is identical to the same weight TSX version but the polymer tip boosts the BC to 0.420 – a sizeable improvement over the 0.369 for the same weight TSX bullet.Standing the bullets side by side, you can instantly see the differences in height and overall aerodynamic design despite having the same weights. Most of this is the extra tip of the TTSX bullets, but the cannelure positioning is also different. Because the hollow points and expansion channel are bigger on the TTSX, the bullet has to be longer to achieve the same weight as the TSX bullet. A separate article on OAL/accuracy for all bullets tested will appear in a subsequent issue.

ReloadsI tested the Barnes bullets the same day as the Nosler lead-free E-Tips in a previous article, and therefore used the same control sample of Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets as a comparison for lead-cored bullet performance. The numbers in brackets are the Harrell Premium Culver powder values I use for instant powder measuring. I tried to match the velocities as best I could to get a true reflection of each bullet’s down-range performance.

ResultsWe are trying to see what weight a Barnes bullet needs to be to achieve the same wound channel and expansion/penetration as a corresponding weight traditional lead-cored bullet.

Ballistically the TSX and TTSX were similar to the Nosler Ballistic Tip control group when loaded with the same powder/primer, etc. But as always, the harder Barnes gave at least 50fps faster velocities. A lead-cored bullet’s jacket gives a little when travelling down the bore, while the solid-cored Barnes are more rigid, causing a pressure increase and thus more velocity. That’s why the TSX and TTSX have cannelures to relieve the pressure a little and reduce copper fouling in the bore as the rifling engages the riding bands.

Interestingly the TSX bullets all have a 0.3070″ diameter and the TTSX even smaller at 0.3060″, again to reduce friction. All the bullets retained near as damn it 100% of their weight plus a bit of media.

Now the interesting part regarding down range performance. The TSX bullets expanded very well; they always do, despite that small hollow point aperture and channel. The 110gr bullet expanded to 0.6666″, doubling its size – beastly! The 130gr TSX expanded to 0.6540″ and the larger 150gr TSX to 0.6440″; all impressive. This translates down range to good terminal ballistics. The 110gr TSX penetrated to 8.75″ with a wound channel of 5.0″, maximum width of 1.45″ and volume of 110ml. That’s almost the same as the 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tip at 120ml volume. Looking good.

The heavier 130gr TSX penetrated further, to 9.75″, with a wound channel of 4.75″, maximum width of 1.35″ and volume of 130ml – very good indeed. The 150gr TSX penetrated the most at 12.5″, with a wound channel of 4.75″, max width of 1.75″ and 100ml in the medium.

To me this proves that going lighter to 110gr or 130gr in a lead-free bullet is needed to replicate your older 150gr traditional 0.308 bullet loads with the TSX bullets tested. The 130gr looks very interesting, with a good blend of penetration and expansion, as well as excellent wound volume. I use them in my .30-47L rifle.

Next up the TTSX bullets. Will these tipped projectiles prove a point? The 110gr TTSX actually penetrated further than the same weight TSX bullets at 9.25″ and gave an impressive 5.75″ wound channel with a maximum width of 1.75″, resulting in a whopping 180ml volume. That’s 10ml more than the control Nosler Ballistic Tip 125gr bullet at nearly the same velocity. Impressive.

Again there was 100% weight retention and bullet expansion was an amazing 0.6890″, up from 0.3060″. The 150gr TTSX also impressed as it penetrated the most at 11.25″. I thought it would expand more with the better hollow point like its 110gr sibling, but still managed a 0.5915″ bullet diameter. The wound channel was impressive, recording a wound channel of 6.15″, maximum width of 2.00″ and 140ml volume.

You should also note that the larger projectile weights carried their wound channels in a linear line for longer, but outside the critical test media and thus animal body cavity. We don’t need total penetration in the UK, although our American cousins do seem to be obsessed with it.

It was also interesting to see the blue polymer tip being fragmented almost at the start of the wound channel to begin the initial expansion of the TTSX bullets. Again, note how clean the wound channels are with these Barnes bullets. You can see how the bullet rotates in flight as the medium has a definite swirl to its inner profile. People forget that a bullet’s rotation also helps to dissipate energy for a quick dispatch on game. There was no wandering of the bullets through the medium with either and these Barnes shot very true in flight.

Before the tests began, I would have said to go with the 110gr TSX or TTSX if you wanted the same performance as a normal lead-cored 150gr .30 cal bullet. That is still true. Look at the 110gr TSX’s 110ml volume and that amazing tipped TTSX 110gr bullet, which at the same velocity as the TSX gave 70ml more wound volume in the same area.

The 130gr bullet, as discussed, would be a good lead-free all-rounder for penetration and performance. I have to admit I was expecting more from the 150gr TTSX, having seen its smaller brother perform so, well but a 140ml wound channel is still 20ml more than a conventional 150gr ballistic tip. Which when you think of it means that a Barnes TTSX at 150gr mimics the traditional 150gr lead-cored control bullet weight for weight. Ah ha! We might be on to something!

ConclusionsOf the lead-free projectiles tested thus far, these offerings from Barnes seem to deliver good consistent performance. The lighter bullets give the desired combination of wound channel and volume within a more confined space – i.e. there is less penetration, which means the bullet’s energy is dumped inside the beast without over-penetration, which has always been a problem with some lead-free bullets. Also, the tipped TTSX Barnes would definitely seem to offer a very good expanding lead-free option if you still want to retain the same weight bullet that you usually use in your rifle.

I would say from a purely subjective view point that there might be some light at the end of the tunnel with regard to changing over from lead to non-lead projectiles. The trouble is supply and demand, as prices are high even if you can buy them to test. Also, as we will explore in future articles, the issues regarding load density, seating depth and rifling twist for best accuracy, make this a whole new ball game!

Contacts RayTrade Ltd Tel: 01635 253344 Barnes bulletsNorman Clark Gunsmiths Tel: 01788 579651 Reload SuppliesHannams Reloading Ltd Tel: 01977 681639 Reload suppliesHenry Krank Tel: 0113 2569163 Ramshot powdersHighland Outdoors Tel: 0845 0990252 Nosler Ballistic TipEdgar Brothers Tel: 01625 613177 Alliant Powders

Over the last few years, prices on just about everything in the hunting industry have been gradually increasing, with muzzleloaders being no exception to this trend. With those price increases, we have seen many new and exciting products introduced, such as the Traditions NitroFire™ and the CVA™ Paramount.

However, the majority of hunters have a hard time justifying the purchase of a muzzleloader that is in the $600 to $2000 range, especially the hunters that live in regions with limited muzzleloading opportunities. Knowing this, we want to ensure that we offer highly effective muzzleloaders for a price that can be easily afforded by anyone who would like to give muzzleloader hunting a shot.

Our team set out to determine which muzzleloader is the best for hunters on a budget. Both of the muzzleloaders that were considered by our team are available with a scope for under $400. Below are our top two picks for the best budget muzzleloaders, with the winner listed at the end of this article.

CVA™ Wolf V2

The CVA Wolf™ V2 has been one of the most popular muzzleloaders in the US for almost a decade. With the compact design and affordable price point, the Wolf V2 is an excellent choice for someone looking to get into muzzleloading at an affordable level. The ability to get this muzzleloader with open sights for around $300 and with a scope and case for under $400 makes the CVA Wolf V2 an extremely attractive gun for many hunters. With a weight of only 6.25 pounds, its compact and lightweight design makes it perfect for all hunting applications. It also features the CVA Quick Release Breech Plug, which allows for tool-free removal of the breech plug and a hassle-free cleaning process. When it comes to budget muzzleloaders, the CVA Wolf V2 is leading the pack as one of the best.

Traditions™ Buckstalker XT

The Traditions™ Buckstalker XT™ offers all of the same great features of the original Buckstalker design, yet for 2024, Traditions has added the Elite XT™ trigger. This is the same premium trigger that is offered in the Traditions Pursuit VAPR™ XT and it provides a crisp and clean trigger pull.

Traditions prides themselves on producing some of the safest muzzleloaders on the market and with its trigger safety and internal block safety, the Buckstalker XT is no exception. This rifle also features the Traditions Accelerator Breech Plug, which is removed in only three turns, making the cleaning and unloading process incredibly quick and easy.

The Buckstalker XT is available with a scope for under $400 and can be purchased with a CeraKote™ finish for a small increase in price. The Traditions Buckstalker XT is a feature-rich muzzleloader that is sure to be effective in the woods and on the range.

Conclusion

Both CVA™ Wolf and Traditions™ Buckstalker XT muzzleloaders are excellent choices for anyone on a budget and wanting to experience muzzleloading, however, our choice for the best budget muzzleloader goes to the Traditions Buckstalker XT.

Though it is not quite as affordable as the CVA Wolf, we believe that the additional safety features, the Elite XT trigger, and the ability to upgrade to a CeraKote finish, give this muzzleloader an edge over the CVA Wolf.

We hope that this makes your decision a little bit easier and if you have any questions then feel free to contact our knowledgeable customer service at [email protected] or 1-855-236-5000.

When you strip away all the fancy gear, the expensive packs, boots, garments, etc.. hunting elk with archery tackle really boils down to two very simple yet ultra important concepts.

1. Be accurate and precise at distance with your equipment

2. Maximize penetration of your arrow

There is zero argument about elk hunting popularity being on the rise. The influx of new archery hunters, difficulties of legally travel abroad to hunt, and increased content around western hunting all has played a part of the elk hunting surge! With that in mind, we’ve also seen a continuous rise in the questions surrounding the business end of your arrow.

“What is the best broadhead for my elk hunting trip?”

“What broadhead should I be using for elk?”

“What is the best broadhead for elk?”

Elk are certainly not whitetails, but they are certainly not water buffalos either! Outside of the animal itself having a reputation of carrying tough hides and a more dense skeletal structure, what other factors should you be considering when trying to pick the best broadhead to harvest an elk with?

YOUR SHOOTING PLATFORM

Regardless of the animal you are hunting, the very first stop in your process of selecting the right broadhead is your shooting platform. Your bow is the largest factoring part of the equation, PERIOD.

Someone shooting a recurve should not be choosing the same arrow and broadhead setup as someone shooting a crossbow or compound. Taking that a step further, draw weight and length, arrow speed, arrow weight, etc, should all factor in to your broadhead choice.

If we’re talking about a crossbow platform, I am shooting fixed blade broadheads. It’s really that simple. I don’t have to think about it, and I don’t have to consider anything else… I don’t even have to wonder. A fixed blade broadhead that is tough, has excellent penetration statistics, something that has thick blades is what I’m looking for. Flight characteristics at high speeds is critical when shooting a crossbow. A general rule of thumb is vented blades tend to perform better than solid blades and cutting diameters no more than 1 1/2″ tend to be more accurate at longer distances. Our K2-Fixed and Fixed EXT broadheads offer everything a crossbow hunter dreams of.

When we’re talking about compounds you really have a wide variety of broadhead choices. Fixed blades, hybrid blades, and mechanicals are all options but not all are created equal. Pending your bow and arrow setup you have some really good options. The key factor is, again, your bow setup. Understanding your bow’s capabilities with your exact draw length and total arrow weight is ultra important. Low poundage shooters and, in some cases, you folks with short draw lengths really need to take a hard look at fixed blade broadheads. Having the understanding that in certain setups you just can’t afford to lose any KE, these types of scenarios IS THE REASON Afflictor’s hybrid broadheads were created. The patented drive-key design offers next to no loss of KE, and with blades opening at impact, you have a true fixed blade broadhead when entering the animal. We can’t say that about other mechanicals. Across the board, whether you are looking at Afflictor’s fixed blade or hybrid blade broadhead offerings, there’s multiple solutions for all compound shooters. Regardless of your broadhead choice, the important message is make sure you understand your setup and that your bow is a fine tuned machine!

When we are looking at the more traditional setups, these guys tend to like a traditional broadhead, right? A single bevel or potentially other fixed blade options, but some trad guys are actually shooting different hybrid broadheads. Something like our Hybrid X or our K2 Mini in the heavyweight stainless steel versions where they’re getting into 175 grains, are really gaining popularity. An outside the box solution for traditional archers, but hybrid designs can be a viable option.

YOUR ARROW BUILDS

The other consideration on your setup is around your arrow builds.

For seasoned elk hunters, their arrow builds and broadheads go hand in hand with their shooting platform. Since the western hunting is growing and evolving, there’s a lot more new elk hunters in the mountains, and we’re a trend of eastern guys thinking elk are just big deer. “I’m a whitetail hunter and I’m going elk hunting. That mindset is a mistake.

You need to understand you WILL need more Kinetic Energy and Momentum for pass through shots on elk…regardless if you are shooting a mechanical, hybrid, or fixed blade broadhead. You need to understand that the average archery shot on an elk is much longer than the average shot on a whitetail. You need to understand and plan for this. If you are an eastern guy and truly just want to shoot the same arrows for both species, the best advice is to take the “reverse engineer” approach. Build and shoot what will work for the tougher animals and it will work for whitetails.

HUNTING STYLE AND POTENTIAL SHOT OPPORTUNITIES

• Where are you going to be hunting?
• Are you going to be hunting a waterhole with a standard blind placement?
• Are you going to be spot and stalk?
• Are you going to be calling?
• Are you willing to take a shots that is pushing your limits?

Not all western states have the same elk hunting regulations when it comes to archery equipment. Make sure you read and fully understand the regs of the state where you hold your elk tag. Some states have specific requirements around broadheads. For a quick break down you can check out one of our other blogs by clicking here.

Your hunting style will certainly impact the potential for tough shots. If you are planning to only ambush hunt elk, similar to whitetails, shot opportunities tend to be closer and with less obstructions. If you’re like the majority of elk hunters, calling and glassing to locate animals and then closing the distance, it’s pretty common to face less than ideal shot angles, obstructions, and some serious distance.

All these variable influence what type of broadhead will perform best, but the common theme doesn’t change. Make sure you have enough KE and Momentum with great long distance flight characteristics.

CUTTING DIAMETER

One consistent theme over the years, no matter what part of this industry I’ve been, it seems that elk hunters have a preference for a certain diameter cut, no matter what broadhead that they’re shooting….1 1/2″. Now, of course, there’s highs and lows to that, but I’m just saying as an average, in our experience for most people, what they’re looking for is 1 1/2″ cutting diameter.

The discovery behind that is that seems to be the cut that offers the greatest penetration for most people’s set up. When that broadhead hits that 1 1/2″ mark, it seems to really be able to pass through elk and still carry good flight characteristics.

Why does size make a difference? Well, when you start getting into broadhead diameters that are 2″ and up, you really have to have the right setup to drive that home for enough penetration to do fatal damage. You may also be handicapping yourself a little bit because the larger blades sometimes are a little more fragile. They require a lot more energy to open, penetrate, and to pass through. So you really have to be considerate of your overall setup when you’re considering using a larger cut blade. On top of that, larger blade diameters typically do not fly as well as smaller blade diameters.

FIXED VS MECHANICAL

This debate also lives in the elk bowhunting world too. It will never end…it’s like the old Chevy vs Ford talk.

Fixed broadheads are simple in our eyes. They take out some of the performance variables out of the equation, and you know, with the right placement you’re not going to have any problem with an elk. The challenge is long distance flight characteristics. Even though this shouldn’t be any issue with a well tuned bow, folks still want to shy away from the added work in tuning their setup.

Mechanicals have come a long way since their inception. They’re tougher and more reliable than before. Now you can get them with thick blades and some designs don’t require a lot of energy to open. Again, you have to do a little bit of research around your setup to make sure you’re making the right purchase.

When push comes to shove, you need a sharp broadhead that performs at distance. Outside of understanding the archery regulations in the state you are hunting in, confidence in executing a well place shot is king. What ever broadhead gives you these three things is the broadhead you should be shooting.

Author: Chris Creed, Afflictor Broadheads

Albacore tuna may be known for its tasty fillets that is sold in stores all over the United States, but it is also a species of Tuna that can grow to some pretty impressive sizes.

Although it is one of the smaller tuna species, the International Game Fish Association world record albacore tuna might be bigger than you first expect. On average, this species of fish might not sound like giants of the deep, but there are some large specimens out there.

It’s some of these large tuna specimens that we are talking about in this article. In it, we look at a couple of the world records associated with albacore tuna and the anglers who have managed to catch some of the big ones!

All Tackle World Record Albacore Tuna

• Date: 19th November 1977
• Weight: 88 pounds 2 ounces
• Angler: Siegfried Dickemann
• Location: Gran Canaria, Canary Islands, Spain

Most fish of this species weigh in somewhere between 10 and 30 pounds. While they can get much bigger than this, it’s pretty rare to catch one that goes much beyond 60 or 70 pounds. That is unless you are angler Siegfried Dickemann on a fishing trip all the way back in November 1977.

On the trip, Siegfried was using a Noris-Shakespeare rod and an Osea line 900 9/0 with an 80-pound line. He was drifting a mackerel when his eventual record-breaking fish took a bite.

Despite the impressive size of this fish, there has actually been an albacore that was bigger and successfully caught with a rod and reel too. The fish in question holds the California state record and weighed 90 pounds 4 ounces. Unfortunately, for the angler who caught it, they were using a type of hook that the International Game Fish Association doesn’t approve so, therefore, the world record still stands at 88 pounds 2 ounces.

Whether you look at the world record or state record, these sea creatures are some of the biggest tuna specimens caught of the species. Despite their relatively small size compared to other world record tuna (the biggest yellowfin tuna ever caught was over 400 pounds and the world record bluefin tuna was over 1000 pounds), these fish are still big fish for the size the majority of their species grow to.

An 88-pound albacore tuna is certainly an impressive fish to behold.

All Tackle Length World Record Albacore Tuna

• Date: 6th February 2022
• Length: 29.92 inches (76 cm) and 30.31 inches (77cm) – TIE
• Angler: Scott Tindale and Sue Tindale
• Location: Bay of Islands, New Zealand

When husband and wife, Scott and Sue Tindale, set out on a fishing trip together, they probably didn’t think that one of them would end up as a new world record holder, let alone both of them!

Scott’s fish was slightly smaller than Sue’s fish but there wasn’t enough of a difference for the record to be broken. This means that both Scott and Sue hold the all-tackle length world record for albacore.

Scott was using a Kilwell rod, a Shimano reel, and he was trolling a Black Magic Freedom lure.

Sue was using a Kilwell rod, a Shimano reel, Black Magic line, and she was trolling a Pakula lure.

It’s an interesting story that this husband and wife can share together – a fishing trip in New Zealand led them both to catch the largest tuna of this type and both becoming world record holders.

About Albacore Tuna

Scientific name

Thunnus alalunga. Albacore are also known as longfin tuna too.

Distribution

Albacore can be found in tropical and warm temperate waters of the Pacific, Atlantic, and Indian Oceans. It is worth bearing in mind that these fish can swim up to 50 miles per hour and they can cover vast distances during their migrations.

Size range

While you can get Albacore that weigh up to 90 pounds and that are up to more than 30 inches long, most will weigh somewhere around 50 pounds or under and will be somewhere around 20 inches in length.

Fishing Techniques

Albacore can be caught using bait or a lure. They are usually found by trolling and can sometimes be bought closer by chumming small baitfish.

It’s worth keeping in mind that if the trolled fish gets unhooked, it will swim away and the rest of the school will likely follow so you need to be careful to prevent losing a whole load of fish.

These fish have good eyesight so a fluorocarbon leader might be useful too.

Eating Quality

Albacore are tasty fish and are the only tuna that can be sold as white meat tuna in the USA.

The flesh is light and has a mild flavor. The meat holds together pretty well so grilling Albacore can be a great option for cooking.

Foraging for food in the backcountry is a great way to enjoy a tasty treat on the trail. But, foraging for the wrong berries, scrubs, and leaves could result in an upset stomach, or something much worse.

That’s because not all the tasty-looking plants you see on the trail are okay to eat. Some are highly toxic and are best avoided. The key is knowing how to tell the toxic plants that look like food apart from those that are okay to eat.

If you’ve ever wondered how to identify toxic plants, we’re here to help. In this article, we’ll introduce you to 30 types of plants that look like food that you ought to avoid on your travels. That way you can avoid this list of poisonous herbs and berries and stick to eating only edible plants as you hike.

Caution! Foraging Safety

30 Toxic Plants That Look Like Food: What You Need To Know

1. Death Camas

If a name like “death camas” doesn’t tell you to stay clear of this plant, nothing will. All jokes aside, however, death camas (Zigadenus venenosus) is one of the most toxic plants in North America.

Death camas is found throughout the western and midwestern United States and it looks like a tall, grass-like plant. Below the ground, it has a sizable bulb that makes it look dangerously similar to plants like onions, garlic, leeks, chives, and scallions.

The problem is that, unlike these plants, death camas is not edible. It can cause muscle weakness, vomiting, tremors, convulsions, and, as its name suggests, death. Thankfully, poisoning among humans isn’t very common, but death camas is known to cause problems for livestock, especially sheep.

Either way, death camas is one toxic plant that you should avoid at all costs.

2. Jerusalem Cherry

Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) is a nightshade that’s traditionally used as an ornamental plant for Christmas. However, while it makes for a pretty decoration, the fruits and seeds of the Jerusalem cherry are highly toxic.

In fact, the poisonous fruit of the Jerusalem cherry contains solanocapsine. Unless eaten in very large quantities, solanocapsine usually isn’t deadly to humans, but it can cause gastrointestinal problems and severe vomiting. It’s also possible that these berries are poisonous to cats, but more research is needed to confirm that.

The problem is that the fruit of the Jerusalem cherry is a small, reddish-orange cherry tomato-looking fruit. This can make it difficult to identify, particularly because there are so many varieties of this plant. Therefore, it’s generally best to avoid plants that look like cherry tomatoes while foraging in the wild.

3. Doll’s Eyes

If there’s one plant that you need to avoid at all costs, it’s this one: doll’s eyes (Actaea pachypoda). A member of the buttercup family, doll’s eyes look like innocuous white flowers before they become raisin-sized white berries with a distinctive black spot.

These berries can be found throughout the deciduous woodlands of eastern North America, and they are highly toxic. The plant contains an as-of-yet unidentified toxin that affects the cardiac system. This toxin is found throughout the plant, including in the roots and berries. When ingested, this toxin effectively “sedates” the heart and can lead to immediate cardiac arrest.

Thankfully, you need to eat a fairly large amount of these berries for this to happen, which isn’t likely because the berries are so bitter. But, the doll’s eyes are best to avoid on the trail.

4. Hemlock

5. Rosary Pea

6. Giant Hogweed

7. Death Cap

8. Angel’s Trumpets

9. Tutsan

Traditionally used to ward off evil spirits, the tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum) is a perennial shrub that’s native to Eurasia. It was traditionally used as a medicinal plant for things like antidepressants.

However, despite its historic medicinal use, the entire tutsan plant, including its berries, which look similar to blueberries in some situations, are toxic. That’s because they contain hypericin, which is a commonly found compound in species of the St. John’s Wort genus (Hypericum).

It’s unclear precisely what it is about hypericin that’s toxic, but it’s believed that this compound can lead to cell death. Nevertheless, consuming tutsan berries can lead to nausea and diarrhea, so it’s perhaps not the best option for your trail snack.

10. Canada Moonseed

Canada moonseed (Menispermum canadense), or simply common moonseed, is a highly toxic plant that’s found throughout eastern North America. It is a relatively small flowering plant that forms in thickets with thick green leaves and small bunches of blueberries.

Although it might look like any other berry-bearing plant, the Canada moonseed is exceptionally toxic. It contains a plant metabolite called dauricine, which is found throughout the plant’s berries, roots, leaves, and flowers. Dauricine causes cardiac issues that can lead to cardiac arrest and death. Needless to say, don’t eat the Canada moonseed.

Interestingly enough, however, this highly toxic compound is being studied for use as a cancer treatment because there’s some hope that it can suppress the growth of cancer cells. One 2019 study found that it was fairly successful at suppressing pancreatic cancer growth in mice. Even still, don’t eat Canada moonseed.

11. Buckeye

12. Wisteria

13. False Morels

14. Wolfsbane

15. Horse Nettle

Despite its name, horse nettle (Solanum carolinense) is not actually a nettle, but rather it is a type of nightshade.

Horse nettle is a type of herbaceous plant that grows large leaves and has white and yellow star-shaped flowers. It is most commonly found in temperate North America, but you can also find it in areas of Europe, Australia, and temperate Asia.

Also called devil’s tomato, the horse nettle is well-known for bearing a highly toxic tomato-like fruit. This poisonous fruit contains solanine, which is a type of alkaloid that can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, nausea, and even respiratory arrest. When eaten in large quantities, horse nettle can even cause death.

Since the fruit of the horse nettle does look a lot like a cherry tomato, it’s important to be careful when picking tomato-like fruits in the wild. Keep in mind that the horse nettle has a thorny stem, which is one way that you can tell the two apart. However, caution is still necessary whenever picking tomato-like fruits on the trail.

16. Castor

Castor (Ricinus communis) is a type of flowering plant that’s arguably best known for the castor bean, which is technically a seed. The castor bean is used to create castor oil, which is used for manufacturing dozens of products, from paints to perfumes.

This plant is traditionally found throughout the Mediterranean Basin, the Indian subcontinent, and eastern Africa, though it’s now spread throughout the tropics and subtropics.

Although castor bean oil is a very popular manufacturing product and even though the castor bean looks like it might be edible, it’s actually highly toxic. This is because raw castor beans have a high level of ricin, which is a type of poison that prevents cells from making proteins.

Thankfully, castor bean poisoning isn’t that common, but it is possible, particularly if you eat a large number of castor beans. It’s estimated that a healthy adult would need to eat approximately 4 to 8 castor beans in order to get seriously ill.

But since the ricin in castor beans could kill you, it’s probably best to avoid eating castor beans, regardless of the quantity you consume.

17. American Bittersweet

American bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is a fairly common type of twining vine that is found climbing its way up trees, fences, trellises, and other structures throughout deciduous ecosystems in North America.

It has small oval-shaped leaves and small flowers that form in clusters. Eventually, these flowers give way to small orange or red-colored fruits.

However, the American bittersweet has a bit of a controversial history of toxicity. While some sources maintain that the American bittersweet is not toxic to humans, it’s been suggested that the plant’s fruit was used by a number of Indigenous communities to induce vomiting.

Either way, we do know that American bittersweet is highly toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. So, if you’re adventuring with your pet or pack stock in tow, be mindful of these potentially dangerous fruits on the trail.

18. Daffodil

Daffodils are a common sight around manicured gardens and in the wilderness during the spring months. However, they are not a good trail snack because they are highly toxic.

All daffodil varieties contain a chemical called lycorine, which is present throughout the plant’s flower, stem, and bulb. In fact, the bulb of the daffodil has the highest concentration of lycorine, which is known to cause nausea, abdominal pain, and even liver damage.

Since daffodils are so distinctive when in bloom, it’s unlikely that someone would mistake them for a different kind of edible flower. The problem with daffodils arises before they bloom. Because daffodil bulbs can look like wild onions, some people have mistaken them for onions, which is problematic.

Thankfully, there is a way to tell daffodil bulbs and onions apart. First and foremost, daffodil bulbs don’t smell like onions. But, even in the absence of this olfactory clue, daffodil bulbs also don’t tear into layers like onions do. So, proper identification is key when searching for wild onions.

19. Deadly Nightshade

20. Yew

21. Pokeberries

22. Virginia Creeper

Sometimes called the five-leaved ivy, the Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a type of decorative ivy that’s originally from the eastern and central parts of North America. Although it can sometimes be confused with poison ivy, Virginia creeper has clusters of five leaves—not three.

While Virginia creeper might not cause the same kinds of rashes as poison ivy (more on that in a bit), it’s not exactly a harmless plant.

In fact, the Virginia creeper has berries that look a lot like purple grapes but that contain oxalic acid. This can cause joint pain, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, and other similar symptoms when consumed.

23. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster refers to a large genus of flowering plants that are technically part of the rose family. These plants were traditionally found throughout the temperate regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia, though you can now find them in North America.

Almost all cotoneaster plants feature berries and leaves that contain cyanogenic glycosides. Even though cotoneaster plants generally have low levels of these compounds, consuming too many berries can lead to kidney, liver, or heart failure. This is particularly true among young children.

Additionally, cotoneaster berries are believed to be toxic to dogs. Although a dog that eats these berries will usually only experience mild digestive problems, eating large quantities of berries could lead to severe health issues among canines.

24. Bitter Almonds

25. Mistletoe

A mainstay of Christmas and yuletide celebrations around the world, the mistletoe is a type of hemiparasitic plant that originated in Europe but has since been introduced to North America. But while the mistletoe is quite festive, it’s not a great snack to eat with your eggnog.

There are a number of active substances in mistletoe, including tyramine and phoratoxin, which can cause vomiting, nausea, and cardiac arrest.

But there are actually 1,500 different mistletoe species, each of which has varying levels of these toxins. This makes identifying particularly poisonous mistletoe plants very difficult.

In fact, it’s believed that American mistletoes are less toxic than their European counterparts. But with all those potentially nasty side effects to worry about, it’s probably better not to taste the mistletoe at your next holiday gathering.

26. Poison Ivy

27. Manchineel Tree

28. Holly

Holly is another Christmas symbol that’s known for being a festive addition to any wintery gathering. Like mistletoe, however, holly is also highly toxic, so it’s best as a decoration, rather than as a holiday snack.

While holly is a beautiful decorative plant, the berries of the holly plant genus Ilex (there are about 480 species in the genus) are all toxic. They contain a number of different compounds, including theobromine, rutin, quercetin, and chlorogenic acid.

For the most part, ingesting holly berries leads to diarrhea and vomiting, though they can also lead to intestinal problems. Eating even a few holly berries can lead to health problems in children. Thankfully, the prickly leaves of the holly plant usually dissuade kids from eating these berries, but it’s important to keep in mind while hiking or enjoying a yuletide celebration.

29. Elderberry

Although elderberry is a delicacy and one of the most commonly used medicinal plants on the planet, it’s technically toxic. Yep, that’s right. When eaten raw, elderberry’s bark, leaves, and berries can cause health problems.

That’s because elderberries naturally contain lectins, which are a type of protein that can cause stomach issues. Additionally, elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning, just like in bitter almonds.

The good news is that cooked elderberries don’t contain these compounds, so it’s generally not a problem to eat the berries with proper preparation. Either way, the bark, branches, and leaves of elderberries don’t lose their toxic compounds when cooked, so hikers should avoid eating these during their travels.

30. Wild Cherry

Last but not least on our list, we have the wild cherry (Prunus serotina). Also called black cherry, the wild cherry tree is a deciduous tree that’s found throughout the Americas.

While it shares part of its name with the tasty cherry that many of us enjoy, the wild cherry’s leaves are highly toxic. The wild cherry tree leaf contains hydrocyanic acid and cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when ingested. This can be fatal if eaten in large quantities.

Fatalities associated with wild cherry in humans aren’t very common. However, livestock and pets are common victims of the wild cherry due to the fact that they sometimes eat the tree’s poisonous leaves. Therefore, hikers should keep a close eye on their pets while venturing down the trail.

How to Identify Common Poisonous Berries (North America Edition)

What to Do If You Eat a Toxic Plant

Hopefully, your astute plant ID skills and cautious approach to foraging have prevented you from accidentally eating a toxic plant that looks like food. In the unfortunate instance that you do eat something that’s not edible, it’s important that you quickly get to medical care.

Should you come into contact with a poisonous plant while hiking, do the following:

1. Stay Calm – It might sound cliché, but no one has ever achieved anything from panicking in an emergency.
2. Take Photos – If you can, take photos of what you ate. Doing so may help with plant identification by poison control or the hospital. Do not bring the berries, fungi, or plants with you to the hospital. Bringing these substances to the hospital can be dangerous for you and medical providers.
3. Get To Medical Care – Even if the amount of toxic berries that you ate is relatively small, your best bet is to get to medical care as soon as possible. Everyone reacts differently to different substances, so you want to be around medical professionals if you were to have an adverse reaction to a toxic plant. The faster you can get to medical care, the better, but don’t over-exert yourself or get lost in the process.
4. Provide Supportive Care – Should you be tasked with caring for someone in the backcountry that is having an adverse reaction to toxic berries or plants, you may need to provide supportive care to that person. Doing so is only appropriate for people with prior medical or wilderness medicine training. Supportive care in these wilderness situations usually means conducting a complete patient assessment and coordinating an evacuation.

The best

At first glance, moose and horses look somewhat similar. They’re both ungulates, or mammals with hooves, walk on four legs, and have a similar body and head shape. That’s about where the similarities end, though.

In the U.S., horses are almost exclusively pets, while moose almost exclusively live in the wild. Male moose have antlers; horses don’t. And while there are a few different species of moose, just like there are many horse breeds, horses are faster while moose are larger. Generally, a moose weighs up to 1,400 pounds (635 kg), while horses typically weigh a maximum of 1,200 (550 kg) pounds.

Here are 11 photos that help showcase the size difference between moose and horses.

Jump to:

• 1. Size Comparison
• 2. There Are Some Exceptions
• 3. A Little Bit Taller
• 4. Just a Bystander
• 5. Different Sizes for Different Climates
• 6. Watch the Road
• 7. Keep a Safe Distance
• 8. Watch Out for the Antlers
• 9. An Aggressive Moose is a Dangerous Moose
• 10. Sometimes, They Get Along Just Fine
• 11. Care to Share?
• Final Thoughts

1. Size Comparison

On average, a moose will be heavier, taller, and longer than a horse. In fact, they’re the largest species in the family Cervidae, which also includes elk and deer.

2. There Are Some Exceptions

While moose are typically larger than horses, there are some horse breeds that have the moose beat. The Shire horse, for example, is one of the largest horse breeds and can greatly outweigh a moose. A stallion Shire horse usually ranges from 1,950-2,400 pounds (900-1100 kg). The largest Shire horse, a gelding named Samson, topped the scales at 3,360 pounds (1,524 kg)!

3. A Little Bit Taller

While the moose is closer to the camera in this photo, it’s still pretty clear that it’s taller than the horse. The average height of a moose at the shoulders is between 4 feet 7 inches (1.3 meters) and 6 feet 11 inches (2.1 meters), while horses, on average, are about five feet tall (1.5 meters).

4. Just a Bystander

Though there have been people throughout history who have managed to domesticate moose, it doesn’t happen often. This moose seems perfectly content to watch his fellow ungulates pull a wagon.

5. Different Sizes for Different Climates

Domesticated horses can be found all over the world today, but modern horses originally came from central Asia. Moose, however, are only found in the wild in the northern parts of North America and Eurasia. They stay warm thanks to their thick fur but also their massive size, which helps their bodies retain heat.

6. Watch the Road

While moose are usually larger, both moose and horses are big enough to cause big problems on the road. Both are typically taller than a sedan, and moose can be as tall as or taller than a pickup truck. While not as common as hitting a deer, there are still about 500 incidents involving moose each year in New England alone. Moose can also do much more damage to vehicles and are more likely to result in fatalities than an accident with a dear.

While it’s much less common to hit a horse, as they don’t often roam free, there are still a handful of incidents each year. They most often happen between October and December and usually on main roads. Things are especially bad in Amish country, where they use horse-drawn carriages instead of vehicles. Pennsylvania calculated that between 2007-2016, there were 633 crashes that involved horses and buggies, with a total of 23 deaths.

To avoid colliding with a moose or horse, use caution when driving through wilderness, farmland, or areas where horse-drawn carriages are common.

7. Keep a Safe Distance

It’s hard to say what would happen if a moose and horse were to meet; there isn’t a lot of research done, and it would depend on the specific horse and moose. However, moose are known to be aggressive at times and, because of their size, can inflict serious damage. If you’re riding your horse and run into a moose, it’s best to keep your distance and get away as quickly and calmly as possible, especially if your horse spooks easily.

8. Watch Out for the Antlers

While the body of a moose is typically going to be taller than the body of a horse, that size difference only grows when you factor in a moose’s antlers. The antlers, which are made of bone, average between four and five feet (1.2-1.5 meters) wide and can weigh between 25 and 30 pounds (11-16.5 kilograms). Only male moose, or bulls, have antlers, and they typically use their antlers to assert dominance.

9. An Aggressive Moose is a Dangerous Moose

Most often, the male moose, or bulls, are the aggressive ones. While moose typically will leave you alone, they can also carry a parasite called a brainworm that increases their aggression. If an angry moose attacks a horse, the moose may fight using its antlers or by kicking with its front hooves. Moose can kick both straight ahead and sideways. Combined with their muscular build, this makes them particularly dangerous in a fight.

10. Sometimes, They Get Along Just Fine

Just because moose are bigger and stronger doesn’t mean they can’t get along with their distant cousins. Blogger and horse trainer Carola Sossdorf adopted an orphaned moose named Emma when the moose was just a few days old. While a female moose is less likely to be aggressive anyway, being raised among other horses likely helped her get used to having horses around.

11. Care to Share?

This photographer managed to snap a photo of a horse and moose sharing a meal, but that doesn’t happen often, in part because the two animals have different dietary needs. Both are herbivores, meaning they exclusively eat plants, but they choose different plants for their diets. Horses typically dine on grass and hay, as well as the oats in horse feed.

Moose, however, typically eat leaves and twigs from woody plants they can find in their natural habitat. Leaving food out for moose is not advised, as offering them food outside of their diet can cause them harm.

Final Thoughts

On average, you’ll find moose to be taller than horses, but there are always exceptions. Part of the reason moose are built to be larger is that their body mass helps them survive in the colder climates they inhabit. Because horses are domesticated in North America, they’re usually more used to being around people. Moose, however, can sometimes become aggressive, so it’s best to avoid them when possible.

Both animals are beautiful creatures with majestic, strong natures. While you can snuggle up to a horse, given the tendencies of moose, it’s best to watch them from a distance.

Upon encountering a troublesome black bear who continuously tore up my deer feeders, I decided I was going to have to come up with a better solution to the cheap plastic Moultrie ones I had installed. I began searching the hunting forums for answers but everything I read kept repeating the same old story that there is no bear-proof deer feeder. Most people suggested hanging a barrel spreader between two sturdy trees. There were plenty of examples of crafty bears getting to these as well. There are of course some massive deer feeders for sale for thousands of dollars that would work if I had the money to blow or a way to haul something that large onto the property. My property is very rugged, and everything has to be carried in by hand. After a couple of hours searching I did find a couple of designs that were small enough to bring in, but they still were close to $800.00.

There had to be a better solution. I headed into my shop and drew up some plans for a steel fortress to house a 30-gallon barrel spreader. I headed up to my local steel supplier for the raw materials, tossed a new tank on the welder and got to work.

The Bear-Proof Deer Feeder Build

The first task was to construct a steel frame to house the barrel.

Once the frame was welded up, it was time to give the beast some armor plating. I used 1/8 inch steel plate that is plenty sturdy and didn’t kill me on the weight. Before welding them to the frame, I drilled hole sets for the support legs I had yet to complete.

To this point, it’s still just a conventional albeit heavy feeder design. The 45-degree support legs were the first real modification. These were designed to provide adequate stability to survive a hungry bear. These legs are juxtapositioned to the frame legs for added support. Because of the length of the legs, I had to make them adjustable due to the sloping, uneven terrain and they had to be removable for transport. Each leg also has a steel foot with a hole drilled to accommodate an 18-inch rebar ground stake.

Next on the list was to build out the critter cage and spray a coat of primer on the beast. The inside of the cage has sheet metal angles to ensure the feed falls outside the enclosure.

Time to give the beast a facelift and add a cage door for easy access to the spreader controls.

Only a few additions left to create. One of the things I noticed about my troublesome bear is that he liked to rear up on his hind legs and hug and push the feeders from the top where the container held the corn. I took a page from Mad Max and added rebar spikes attached to the upper plate panels. The spikes are sharp enough to be uncomfortable but not so sharp as to injure the bear.

For the final touches, I added a solar battery charger and put plastic end caps on all the open-ended square tube to protect the steel from moisture. Nothing left to do but load up the truck, head to Oklahoma and plant “The Beast.”

After it was all said and done the Bear-Proof Deer Feeder could most likely withstand a tornado, and it only cost about $250.00 and a few weeks of fun in the shop. That’s a bargain in my book.

Update Video: After three days and many hours the bear gives up and the beast wins. Had to do a slight modification as the bear was able to spin the barrel which did cause a loss of a small amount of feed. The real issue is he tears the wire out of the solar charger which I have to fix each time.

All photographs and works are copywritten.

Any use or reproduction requires written consent.

How To Choose The Right Mobile Ham Radio?

Durability, Build Standards and Build Quality

You don’t want your ham radio to die on you when you rely on it the most, which is why durability is one of the most important things to consider when you are picking out a radio.

Some ham radios designed for mobile use, similar to handheld ham radios are built and tested according to strict military standards for shockproofing, waterproofing, and even mold. These are the best ham radios for you if you like to drive your Jeep through rocky and muddy roads.

Even if you are buying a radio for your base station or home setup, you should still opt for something that is built well. These units might not be waterproofed or encased in steel, but the quality of the buttons and knobs should be good enough to withstand frequent use.

Transmission Power Output

Many amateur radio users make the mistake of prioritizing high-power ham radios for their vehicles. After all, the higher the transmission power, the further it transmits, right?

While this is technically true, it shouldn’t be the only thing you look for when you are in the market for mobile radio. The transmission power you need depends on the type of communication you want to engage in.There is no sense in choosing a powerful 50 watts ham radio if you want to use your radio as an emergency unit – a normal two-way radio or VHF/UHF radio of up to 5W would suffice. But if you want to connect with other amateur radio operators all over the world, you would want a mobile radio that offers at least 25-50 watts of power.

At any rate, you should buy a radio that is compatible with an external antenna. This gives you the option to expand your coverage when you need it the most.

User-friendly And Intuitive Menu Setup & Operation

Ease of use is a must when choosing the best mobile ham radio. You don’t want to be distracted by scrolling through menu options when you are driving.

Well-designed ham radios utilize the hand mic for better one-handed control. These designs often include programmable buttons, frequency toggles, and a keypad. Moreover, some radios have a 180 degrees rotatable screen for easy monitoring.

When it comes to menu design, we would recommend choosing a radio that uses a streamlined menu system. Besides being more convenient, a bloated menu can also be frustrating and overwhelming.

Weight, Size And Phisical Factors

You can mount most radios in your dash with a mounting bracket. However, as they tend to get very hot, you might have to consider an alternate spot for your radio if you drive all day. Besides that, getting a bulky and heavy radio can also hamper your efforts to move it around.

Scan Function And Memory Storage

Scan function and memory storage allow you to scan available frequencies and save any channels that you like.

It is much easier to have a one-click scanning feature since you would most likely be driving when you use a mobile ham radio. Typically, you get about 200 slots in your channel storage, which is more than enough for most people.

Newer models offer more robust and convenient saving features. For example, some save your scanning preference so you don’t have to set it up again if your radio reboots. Some save your settings, like volume control and squelch, along with the frequency and channel names.