What Expert Had to Say: Back when I wrote my slightly controversial and proverbial pot-stirring article rating the Top 5 9mm Pistols, I gave Honorable Mention to three particular pistols, among them the legendary SIG Sauer P210. Although many consider the SIG Sauer 210 the most accurate 9mm pistol ever, I rationalized my mere Honorable Mention ranking because I hadn’t yet been able to fire and adequately evaluate the 210. For a long time, it was so goshdarn expensive that none of the gun ranges I frequented throughout the US of A over the past three decades made one available for rental. The pistol took on an aura of Unobtainium, and the Holy Grail all rolled into one.

A Brief History of the SIG Sauer P210

The SIG Sauer P210 has been likened to a Swiss watch of handguns, and that’s not just because Switzerland is the country of origin, though that certainly helps.

As noted by Sean Murphy of Outdoor Life, “While the Swiss aren’t known for a large military force, their arms are known to be high-quality for soldiers that know how to use them. Originally adopted in 1949, the SIG P49 (later renamed P210), featured a steel frame and slide that have full length contact, with a high-quality barrel and superb trigger. With match-grade ammunition, the specification for the original SIG P210 was a five-shot group measuring two-inches or less at 50 meters. Most pistols would struggle to offer this level of precision at half the distance.” (emphasis added)

Eventually, the SIG Sauer P220 replaced the P210 as the Swiss Army pistol. Remarkably, the pistol remains standard issue for Danish Defence (the unified armed forces for the Kingdom of Denmark), despite the overwhelming prevalence of higher-capacity double-action and striker-fired 9mm auto pistols; the P210 is a single-action autoloader with a modest 8-round magazine and an old-school European-style butt-heel magazine release that has long since fallen out of favor for the far faster push-button mag releases located behind the trigger guard.

The standard P210 weighs 970 g (34 oz), has an overall length of 215 mm (8.5 in), and a barrel length of 120 mm (4.7 in).

SIG Sauer P210: My Personal Shooting Impressions at the Range

So, as luck would have it, as I was taking some hard-earned Labor Day weekend vacay in my old childhood hometown of Los Angeles, I decided to visit one of my favorite old SoCal haunts, the good ol’ Los Angeles Gun Club in Downtown L.A…and I discovered to my delightful surprise that the LAGC folks actually had a SIG P210 available for rental! It would be a major understatement to say this was way too good and rare an opportunity to pass up!

After 33 years of aura of mystery surrounding this previously unobtainable pistol, the act of dispelling that aura was…good but not spectacular. (“And the crowd goes…mild.”) Definitely not a bad experience, but not one that blew me away either (bad pun intended).

Slide manipulation was delightfully smooth, probably at least partially because the slide rides inside the frame rails rather than atop them the way most semiautomatic pistol slides do, which also at least theoretically contributes to the gun’s intrinsic accuracy; relatively few other auto pistols emulate this feature, the CZ-75 being amongst those few.

The trigger was also remarkably smooth and worthy of the “Swiss watch” label. The frame-mounted safety flicked downward from the “Safe” to “Fire” position slickly and smartly…but going the opposite direction – such as for cocked-and-locked carry mode – was rough and gritty.

And then there was the aforementioned butt-heel magazine release. On this particular P210 (not sure if it’s a universal design flaw or just unique to this individual specimen), it was extremely stiff and awkward. My shooting buddy and I both struggled with it, and mind you, we both weigh over 200 pounds and work out regularly. Definitely not a desirable feature in a real-world gunfight or even a high-stakes competitive match wherein speed reloads AKA emergency reloads are called for.

(As a sidebar note, SIG did recently release their so-called P210 Carry version, which has the more desirable push-button mag release.)

As to accuracy, the basis of the SIG Sauer P210’s legend, I have to throw out a couple of caveats here. First of all, LAGC is only a 50-foot range, so in fairness, that limited my ability to do a true hard-core test of the gun’s long-distance dialing (so to speak) ability. Second of all, this was a range rental gun, so it’s got some wear & tear on it. That said…at 21 feet, all 25 rounds fired struck the ICE-QT target in the head, but the rounds strayed considerably to the right, clustering around the left eye of the target as opposed to the bridge of the nose that was my aim point. At the 50-foot mark, all 25 rounds were in the 5-zone of the torso, but only 8 rounds landed in the tiebreaking 5x zone, with the rounds once again straying noticeably to the right. The groups were pleasantly tight but nowhere near as tight as the kind I routinely score with my beloved Beretta 92FS/M9, Glock 17, Glock 21SF, Glock 26, or my WWI-vintage Colt M1911 that I fired at this very same range session.

The ammo used was the Remington Range 115-grain full metal jacket (FMJ).

SIG Sauer P210: Bottom Line

So then, I’m not planning to save up money to buy a SIG P210, as many other firearms remain higher-ranked on my Wish List. That said, it is still definitely a high-quality firearm and one of these days, I’d relish the chance to test the gun’s capabilities at 25 and 50 yards (as opposed to 21 and 50 feet). And the good news is, though the pistol is pricey, the price tag actually appears to have gone down compared to the $2,500.00 – $3,000.00 USD that was the norm back in the 1990s.

If you have the desire to own one of these legendary pistols, I definitely recommend it.

Bonus: Sig Sauer Photo Essay

Christian D. Orr has 33 years of shooting experience, starting at the tender age of 14. His marksmanship accomplishments include: the Air Force Small Arms Ribbon w/one device (for M16A2 rifle and M9 pistol); Pistol Expert Ratings from U.S. Customs & Border Protection (CBP), Immigration & Customs Enforcement (ICE), and the Federal Law Enforcement Training Center (FLETC) Criminal Investigator Training Program (CITP); multiple medals and trophies via the Glock Sport Shooting Foundation (GSSF) and the Nevada Police & Fires Games (NPAF). Chris has been an NRA Certified Basic Pistol Instructor since 2011. In his spare time, he enjoys (besides shooting, obviously) dining out, cigars, Irish and British pubs, travel, USC Trojans college football, and Washington DC professional sports.

These days, the availability of multiple types of scope configurations, focal planes, and features is a testament to how far telescopic sights have come over the years.

To those just getting into rifle scopes, it’s now a quandary to choose between FFP or SFP scopes.

How do you choose the best focal plane for your rifle or for the job?

The shooter must determine what the rifle will be used for 80-90% of the time. The intended application can help determine specific shooter needs that includes whether the benefits of FFP or SFP scopes are right for common approaches such as hunting, long range, or the AR-15.

More approaches to consider include combat, the LPVO, target shooting, and competition use. But before we get ahead of ourselves, what is FFP and SFP?

Let’s find out.

What is the Difference Between FFP and SFP Scopes?

Overall, the difference between FFP and SFP scopes is how the reticle performs in relation to magnification. FFP reticles will grow or decrease in size while SFP reticles will remain the same regardless of power changes. This is a direct result of where the reticle is placed in the scope.

Since both first and second focal plane rifle scopes look the same on the outside, you can’t tell them apart from appearance alone. Here is a rundown on FFP and SFP scopes to understand what they are, how they work, and their advantages.

What does FFP Mean on a Rifle Scope?

FFP means First Focal Plane but is also known as Front Focal Plane. What is FFP? It is the position of the reticle. It lies in front of the magnifying lens within the scope erector tube. The reticle increases in size as magnification increases and decreases in size as magnification decreases.

First Focal Plane Explained

Explaining first focal plane reticles must include discussion of subtension. FFP scopes have constant subtension. The measured amount of space/area the reticle covers up on a target remains the same regardless of magnification.

Subtension is the measurement of how much of a target or area is covered by the reticle at a specific distance. Because the reticle and magnification are in parallel, reticle crosshairs will always take up the same amount of space on a target whether you’re in low power or high.

What are the Advantages of a FFP Scope?

The first focal plane position of the reticle provides two primary advantages. First, constant subtension that allows for accurate ballistic holdovers at any magnification setting. Secondly, the magnified reticle at high magnification improves visibility of holdover points.

The best FFP scopes typically have a tactical or competition approach, but as hunters are demanding long range performance, FFP scopes can be used for hunting too.

FFP Pros & Cons

What does SFP Mean on a Rifle Scope?

SFP means Second Focal Plane but is also known as Rear Focal Plane. What is SFP? It is the position of the reticle. It lies behind the magnifying lens but in front of the eyepiece in a rifle scope. The reticle remains the same size (static) throughout the entire magnification range.

Second Focal Plane Explained

Explaining second focal plane reticles is cause for a discussion on subtension. Subtension is the measured amount of space or area on a target that crosshairs cover up at a specific distance. SFP reticles are important to understand as subtension is constantly changing as magnification changes.

The amount of space that the crosshairs cover up on a target at any distance will change as you increase or decrease magnification. As you increase power, the crosshairs will take up less ‘space’ on the target as the target gets larger in size. As you decrease power, the crosshairs will take up more ‘space’ on the target as the target gets smaller in size.

What are the Advantages of a SFP Scope?

Second focal plane advantages are many. With a reticle that doesn’t change size, it can provide better crosshair visibility for shooting in low magnifications. On the high end, it can improve visibility of small targets at max magnification. SFP scopes are common and more affordable than FFP scopes.

SFP Pros & Cons

FFP VS SFP: How to Choose?

Choosing between a FFP or SFP scope requires more insight than leaving it to personal preference alone. Other considerations such as magnification requirements and how the scope will be used most of the time must be factors that have weight in the final decision.

Hunting

What focal plane is best for hunting? Two factors must be considered: magnification and terrain. FFP scopes are compatible for high power and open country, mountainous terrain like Western big game hunting. SFP scopes can be great for low magnification and timber, brush, or Mid-West deer hunting.

Generally, 3-9x and 4-16x are great configurations for many hunting conditions and game as they can cover plenty of ground. The visibility of a reticle that doesn’t change size at low powers in lowlight conditions gives the SFP scope an edge that FFP cannot provide.

Normal reticle visibility of a SFP is also preferred for those in heavy brush and thick timber environments. With FFP reticles, the crosshairs can get too small and are difficult to see as they appear ‘lost’ against the terrain.

So, is FFP any good for hunting? FFP allows for accurate holdovers at any magnification, and it can be maximized to its full potential if you’re consistently hunting with magnifications of more than 12x. This is great for long-range, open country, and unpredictable, mountainous terrain. Dialing in or messing with magnification to get to the calibrated power to use the right holdover point on a SFP scope is less than ideal.

Ultimately, the last 30 minutes of last legal light is often the golden hour of filling a tag. Clarity, resolution, and brightness is best achieved in the lower powers, and since FFP scopes have a hard time with reticle visibility in low light and low power, the SFP remains the favorite focal plane scope for deer hunters.

Winner: SFP

Long Range

Long range shooting often means high magnification and a lot of dialing in or heavy dependence on the reticle. Whether it’s hunting or competitive shooting, long range performance is best done with a FFP scope.

FFP reticles are clearly the best scopes for long range shooting. The first benefit is that you can maximize use out of a complex reticle. With multiple elevation and windage holdovers that will always be accurate regardless of magnification, it makes for fast and straightforward decisions. This benefit also boosts confidence in reducing POI shifts when you do adjust the power.

Secondly, the reticle becomes larger in size as you crank up power. This makes it easier to see the crosshairs, hashmarks, and/or dots. The catch-22 is that on very small targets, FFP reticle subtension can obscure significant areas making it harder for exacting shots.

Is FFP or SFP better for long range shooting? SFP scopes will work for bench shooters who aren’t on the clock and content shooting from max power. Quality glass and turrets are essential. You’ll always have an easy to see reticle regardless of magnification. However, FFP is better suited to the job.

Winner: FFP

AR15

The AR-15 is a favorite and popular rifle used for everything from target shooting to hunting, law enforcement and competitions. FFP or SFP scopes can be mounted to a MSR to fit your requirements and intended applications.

Choosing between FFP or SFP scopes for an AR15 or any type of MSR comes down to intended applications and the range of magnification you will be using 80-90% of the time.

SFP is suitable for many applications especially when magnification is less than 12x. SFP scopes are very user-friendly on the low power end versus FFP scopes. Having a max of 12x or even pushing it to 14x with SFP is suitable for some long-range performance, and at that point, you can rely on holdover points onboard the reticle.

FFP will really shine for long range shooting, competition, and some hunting styles. Being able to increase the power but not max out and still have accurate holdovers is critical for these applications.

Since you can do a lot of various things with an AR, the type of focal plane scope you opt for should be suited to what you will be doing with it.

Winner: Tie

Combat

The LPVO or a high-powered scope used for combat, tactical, or home defense situations will have a reticle placed either in the first or second focal planes. For most professional scenarios, CQB performance is paramount.

The SFP reticle is constant, easy to see, and well suited to CQB combat. Even when you change magnification within 250 yards, there shouldn’t be any need to hold, at least on a man size target. A lot of law enforcement (LE) combat engagements are extremely close, and LE sniper scenarios may be closer than most people think.

You can opt for either FFP or SFP scopes for tactical use, but with a 50 to 100-yard zero, SFP will serve its purpose for close to mid ranges.

FFP reticles certainly have their place and can be extremely beneficial on magnified optics when holding over or for fast corrections and follow-up shots at a distance. It may come down to the type of combat and distance or speed requirements you anticipate needing.

Do snipers use FFP or SFP? It may depend on who you talk to. It’s been said that veteran snipers preferred the fixed 10x power scope. It may also depend on if it’s military or local police. Oftentimes, the budget is the determining factor versus the preference over reticle focal planes.

Winner: Tie

LPVO (Low Power Variable Optic)

LPVO scopes are close to mid-range optics and are great on tactical carbines. The 1x magnification and red dot capability are must-have features, but the low variable magnification makes it a versatile optic. SFP is appropriate for most scenarios, but FFP can provide distance advantages.

FFP reticles on a LPVO would be best suited to those who know they will be engaging targets at multiple and varied distances. This would be appropriate for competition shooters and military men and women on the front line. The use of a FFP LPVO will also ensure fast and accurate shots using holdovers.

It is worth mentioning that quality LPVO scopes with FFP reticles should be visible and fast to use in the low powers. FFP reticles are more common to find in 1-8x or 1-10x LPVO scopes.

In most circumstances, the SFP remains attractive to the LPVO user and is the most common type of focal plane available in 1-4x and 1-6x scopes. Even if you’re shooting over 300 yards, outside of specialized circumstances, you’ll likely have the time needed to dial in or max out the power for accurate holdovers. With a LPVO for an AR, there’s not much to complain about when it comes to using max power.

Winner: SFP

Target Shooting

There are many forms of target shooting from plinking, rimfire fun, and 100-yard shooting to testing out long-range skills and scope ability. For most purposes other than long range, the SFP reticle is the perfect scope for these scenarios.

A lot of people don’t need FFP scopes and target shooters generally fall into that category. Many target shooters are at the bench or in prone positions and aren’t racing against the clock. They have the time to dial in adjustments and shoot from the center point at their pace and will do fine with a SFP scope.

FFP may be desired for long range target shooting or perhaps for those who want a scope for aging eyes that allows them to see a larger reticle. More magnification doesn’t make you a better shooter, but it does allow you to see better.

The same can be said if you’re considering FFP or SFP for 22LR rimfires. Take into consideration what you’re using it for 80% of the time, the targets you’re shooting, and the distances. FFP would be great for target shooting practice for PRS matches but can obscure F-class smallbore targets. For most recreational purposes without holds, SFP does it.

Winner: SFP

3-Gun/Competition

Speed and accuracy are just two factors that are must-have features from a rifle scope for 3-Gun and many types of shooting competition matches. FFP is the way to go for varied distances and on-the-clock shots.

Precision marksmen almost always prefer FFP scopes. The ability to use accurate holdovers at any magnification makes for fast shots. You lose time with constantly dialing in on an SFP scope, decreasing magnification for wide FOVs to find the next target and then cranking it up to make a shot, or always being stuck max power.

The top scopes for competition shooting usually have a very wide magnification range allowing for adjustable FOVs for the widely varied target distances. The downside to the FFP is that the reticle can get small at lower power making it harder to see that center dot. Illumination can help to alleviate the problem. Nonetheless, the SFP has an advantage in that it always stays at its normal, visible size and is usually thin enough to see F-class smallbore targets.

Pro Tip: Some shooters in competitions that allow for more than one optic will use an FFP scope and red dot sight combo with a 45-degree offset mount.

Winner: FFP

SFP VS FFP: Which is Best for You?

The right scope will be the one that is best suited to the intended application. If it’s about cost alone, the SFP is cheaper as FFP reticles are nearly always glass-etched and precision alignment is imperative. Beyond the budget, choose the scope that offers the most advantages for the application.

In general, FFP is great for long range, high magnification, competition, and some professional tactical and hunting applications.

SFP is very good for most target shooting, hunting, and CQB performance. If you’re not holding over often, prefer consistent visibility of the reticle, or shoot small targets often, SFP is the way to go.

Keep in mind that experienced shooters find ways to help mitigate some of the problems inherent in each focal plane and work with it. Don’t let complex math, budget, or existing biases get in the way of choosing the right type of scope for you and for the job.

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• How to Lap Scope Rings (& Is Lapping Really Necessary?)

Tactical and competitive shooting sports are crossing over into the hunting world more than ever, sparking frequent debates about whether first or second focal plane scopes—or more accurately, the reticles inside the scopes—are better.

Also known as front and rear focal plane, this refers to the position of the lens etched with the reticle, in relation to the zoom mechanism.

If the reticle-etched lens is in front of the zoom mechanism, it’s called a first, or front, focal plane scope. The reticle is superimposed over the image in the scope on the same plane, so as you zoom in or out, the reticle larger or smaller, maintaining the same size in relation to your target.

If the lens etched with the reticle is behind the zoom mechanism, it’s called a second, or rear, focal plane scope. In this design, the reticle stays the same apparent size inside the scope all the time. As you zoom in or out, the image seen inside the optic gets larger or smaller but the reticle does not.

There are significant advantages and disadvantages of each type. Proponents of first focal plane designs are vociferous in proclaiming the virtues of their favorite. Users of second focal plane scopes tend, quite candidly, to be less educated in optic technicana, and unfortunately often just listen without debating.

Here’s the short answer as to which is actually best: It depends entirely on the intended purpose of the scope. If you’re a military sniper, or a “tactard” plinker, or a PRS competitive shooter, front focal plane scopes are best. If you’re a hunter, second focal plan scopes are usually best.

Here’s why.

Front Focal Plane Scopes

Military and tactical-type shooters often rely on hash reticle hash marks to compensate for wind drift, and for on-the-fly minor variances in bullet impact above or below expected point of impact. In a first focal plane scope, the hash marks on the reticle crosswire are the same predictable value no matter what magnification the scope is set on. Whether you are zoomed way in on a very small target, or zoomed way out so as to maximize our field of view when engaging multiple or moving targets, .2-MIL hash marks are always .2 MILs. If you need to hold for 6 MILs of wind drift, just use the appropriate hash mark and squeeze the trigger.

That’s it for the advantage of first focal plane reticles, folks. It’s a very simple, yet critical characteristic. The disadvantages are more nuanced, and as a result are harder for many shooters to grasp—until experienced for themselves.

Here’s the down side to front focal plane reticles: When the scope is zoomed way in, the reticle grows to the point where it becomes outlandishly thick. It can easily become so thick it obscures your target, making precise aiming difficult.

To compensate, most optic companies make front focal plane reticle crosswires really thin near the center. Unfortunately, that makes it so when you zoom way out, the reticle becomes super thin and can nearly vanish.

Most tactical and competitive shooters prefer to shoot with their scope on 10x or more, so it’s not really a problem for them. However, if you use a first focal plane reticle while hunting, that vanishing reticle on low power can be debilitating.

This is particularly true in low light conditions, and when the game animal is against a brushy background. To gather enough light to see the animal, you’ve got to zoom the scope all the way out. (Scopes gather and transfer light most effectively on low power.) Trouble is, with the reticle now spiderweb-thin, it vanishes in the twilight, especially if there’s brush around the animal.

Where legal, illuminated reticles can help overcome the vanishing-reticle syndrome. However, many states do not allow illuminated reticles for hunting. Plus, most illuminated reticles are too illuminated, meaning the entire thing or at least the major percentage of the reticle glows. A tiny pinpoint of light in the center of the reticle is wonderful; a Christmas tree worth of vibrant glowing reticle is distracting and can make it difficult to see through and find your quarry in the fading light.

Second Focal Plane Reticles

Second focal plane scopes are the world standard for hunters, and for good reason; the reticle stays the same size whether zoomed in or out. You can crank up to top magnification and see the wings on a fly at 100 yards; the reticle doesn’t become grossly fat. You can zoom all the way out for low-light hunting, and the reticle stays perfectly visible rather than thinning to obscurity.

I’m gonna take a cheap-shot at pseudo-tactical shooters that proclaim second focal plane reticles are outdated and near useless: Most shooters making such claims have little real-world experience on live targets, in wild environments; on stealthy game that moves only when the shadows grow long. Be a little more open-minded, and listen to the guys that consistently stalk and kill the wariest wild game, from torrid deserts to frigid timberline, in all kinds of weather and light conditions. You’ll learn something about what works best for hunting.

So, if second focal plane scopes are so good, what’s the down side? It applies to technical extended-range shooters that calculate wind holds, or hold over a distant target using reticle hash marks to compensate for bullet drop rather than dialing up.

If a second-focal-plane reticle incorporates hash marks, it has a significant Achilles Heel: They are only good at one magnification setting. For example, my favorite hunting reticle is Leupold’s WindPlex. It’s got one-MOA hash marks on the horizontal crosswire to help shooters accurately compensate for calculated wind drift. However, those hash marks span exactly one MOA only on max power. For example, a 3-18x 44mm Leupold VX-6HD must be zoomed all the way to 18x for the hashes to have exactly a one-MOA span.

I don’t like to shoot at game animals on max power. It’s hard to find your quarry when you’re zoomed all the way in. You almost never spot your own impacts, because the field of view is small and recoil causes your rifle to jump. It’s hard to find the animal for a fast follow-up shot. In Mexico, I once failed to get a critical second shot into an animal because my scope was on 18x. The big coues buck trotted off when the bullet hit, and I couldn’t get back on him.

Thankfully, there’s a shooter’s hack that helps: Set your scope on half power, and double the value of the hash marks. Set on 9x (halfway down from 18x), my Leupold reticle’s hash marks span two MOA.

As a result, unless inside 300 yards, I rarely use anything but half-magnification when hunting with second focal plane reticles equipped with hash marks.

There you have it: the primary pros and cons of first versus second focal plane scopes. Maybe, like me, you own and use both, and pick up whichever is appropriate for the task at hand. Perhaps you use just one rifle for everything from backcountry hunting to long-range cross-country NRL Hunter matches. In the end, only you can decide which is best for your purposes.

For those of us who join the flock of waterfowl hunters without an experienced mentor, it’s a long, bumpy road full of absent-minded mistakes and embarrassing mishaps. I’ve made my share of them and I hope that others can avoid getting into the same sticky situations. Now I am not here to willfully endorse going into any hunt without a plan to retrieve killed and wounded birds, but I wholly understand that situations do arise at times, especially for the greenhead greenhorn and first-time ‘fowler who just doesn’t know any better.

Your best bet will always be to have a plan to retrieve birds over open water. You need to bring a dog or a feather-fetching vessel, even if it’s your sister’s hot pink sit-on-top kayak or your kid’s prized pool floatie. It’s our responsibility to make every effort to recover all downed birds. So now that I’ve outgrown my own dunce cap days, I hope to share some hard lessons with three of the worst best bird-saving techniques I’ve come across, should you ever find yourself in a similar situation when every other effort fails.

Wade For It

When I first got into duck hunting, I loaded up on used, budget-friendly gear which included a set of secondhand waders, used and abused decoys, and a hulky, hand-me-down 12-gauge Wingmaster. It was far from perfect, but what this bare minimum, low-cost lot offered me was the freedom and opportunity to start my wingshooting wanderings.

My first hunt was full of wonder all right and it also filled my waders with water. I stood in the cattails as the morning brought the first flight and with it, a single greedy green wing drake that came close enough for me to drop him with a Hail Mary third shell as he sailed to the other side of the marsh. As I made my way over to retrieve the bird, I learned a lot about beaver lodge construction. I went from walking knee deep to the next step that sunk me up to my armpits and tried to waterlog my waders. Turns out beavers like to clear out subterranean tunnels to make their underwater entries and exists a little easier.

Since this first foolheaded episode, I’ve seen many others who have gotten in over their heads when attempting to recover dead birds with only their waders. Before hunting any new spot without a dog or boat, wade around and scout it out to become familiar with the various depths and any challenging places where you might get wet and compromise your bird-retrieving efforts. Getting soaked sucks, but remember, we need to recover our birds. This is even more important on larger ponds and lakes that could drop off just a few feet from shore. When you knock one down, walk out in your waders as far as you can. Otherwise, you better be ready to back out, strip down, and swim out to duck dog it yourself—just don’t be too hard-mouthed when your buddy sneaks a snapshot for the memory bank.

Hooking Up

I would later migrate from the small marshes to the bigger open waters of Lake Champlain after learning about the abundance and opportunity for late season divers. There’s a steady stream of bluebill, ringnecks, buffleheads, and “whistlers”—or goldeneye as known in these parts. I learned to build and hunt from rock blinds and hide in the outcroppings along the rugged shoreline of “the big lake.”

After testing the waters and finding relatively shallow shoreline depths, I was confident that I could drop these birds in range and snatch them up easily, with a little added help from the wave action that would wash them back to me, should they fall a little beyond the wading level.

By now I was a little more prepared for retrieving birds with a backup plan to stay high and dry—I brought a telescoping fishing pole and a few large crank baits. If I couldn’t catch them by hand, I’d cast out and retrieve them with rod and reel. It worked, but just because something works, doesn’t mean it should be relied upon. If you absolutely need a Plan B, bring a pole, and keep a few extra hook-heavy baits in your blind bag so you don’t have to start fishing for fowl with nothing but a long stick and a prayer.

Commandeer a Craft

I always head to Champlain for the late season diver action, but also because the lake sees fewer visitors and inhabitants. The busy summer cottages and “camps” are abandoned and left vacant for prime shoreline hunting. Most waterfowl hunters around here are hung up on mallards anyway, making it easy for me to get into the overlooked and underrated divers.

After growing a bit tired and frustrated with the aforementioned alternative retrieval techniques, I knew there had to be a better and more effective way. I spent one morning with luck on my side and the first two birds falling straight into the spread of fakes, but then the wind picked up and the waves rolled in a little faster. The next bird fell and bobbed slightly out of reach and without wanting it to drift away, my mind floated back to the sun-bleached, stashed-aside canoe I noted on the walk in. Sure, I had secured permission from the property owner to access the lake, but I was also sure the out-of-sight owners would never learn of my haphazard hijack to pick up my bird. After this successful but shortsighted strategy, I packed up my gear, counted my blessings, and called it a day.

There’s never been a worse feeling for me, than not being certain I would be able to recover my birds. Many states also have wanton waste laws—and I’m not going into legal advice or a regulation discussion—but it’s our duty as duck hunters to make an ethical attempt to recover all shot and wounded birds.

Now I can assure you that these three makeshift recovery methods do indeed work, but I wouldn’t ever rely on them for retrieving your birds, that’s not the intent of this instruction. They’ll work in a bind, but don’t make them commonplace. I’ve since upgraded to dragging a kayak around to setup my spread and collect downed birds with a next step to bring home a four-legged fetcher to pass on the hard work to. I hope in time you will expand your limits of possibility too.

I recently completed a project that I began last Fall.

On nature walks in the park in the Fall, I am frequently asked about the hickory nuts we find: “Are they edible”? The short answer is yes. The question, however, deserves a fuller response.

To say that something is “edible” is, in a sense, simply to say that it is safe to eat; it is not poisonous and will not make the eater sick. Hickory nuts are definitely edible in this sense. This is only the first consideration, though, for someone who is actually considering eating something found in its natural state. Not everything edible is something that one wants to consume. Are the hickory nuts of Eliza Howell Park ones that we are likely to find pleasant to eat?

To the best of my knowledge, there are three species of hickory nut trees in Eliza Howell: Bitternut Hickory, Shagbark Hickory, Pignut Hickory. The trees are not numerous, but in some years all three produce bumper crops and the nuts are easy to find on the ground. Bitternut appears to be the most common of the hickories in the park.

This picture depicts each Eliza Howell hickory species in the progression from green nut to ripening nut to the nut after the outer hull is removed.

The first clue to tastiness might be what our ancestors thought when the species got their common names. “Bitter” clearly suggests unpleasant. And identifying something as “pig feed” is not normally a recommendation for human consumption. In the past, Pignut Hickory nuts were commonly part of the annual diet of hogs.

The other species, on the other hand, was identified by its bark: the trunk has large strips of peeling bark. Calling attention to the bark helps to provide identification if one wants to locate a tree for purposes of collecting nuts. Shagbark is a hickory that nearly everyone agrees is tasty as well as edible.

I have eaten Shagbark Hickory nuts many times. We collected them every Fall for Winter eating when I was young. Having no memory of ever eating Bitternut or Pignut, I browsed the reports and descriptions of others. There appears to be general agreement that Bitternut nuts are not tasty, but there is less agreement on Pignut. Most, but not all, describe it as unpleasant to eat.

I decided to do a taste test. I harvested a few nuts of each species in the Fall and this February I ate some of each.

The Shagbark was enjoyable, as remembered.

I found little difference between Bitternut and Pignut. My assessment of these two: On the one hand, if I were hungry, they would serve as an acceptable source of nutrition; on the other hand, I do not intend to bring them home to eat. I am perfectly pleased to let wildlife have them (and I do see from the evidence in the snow that squirrels have, in fact, been using them for Winter food this year).

There is an old Roman (Latin) saying: “De gustibus non est disputandum.” We should not dispute matters of taste. What one person likes another might not – and that does not make either wrong. My opinion on the taste of the different hickory nuts found in Eliza Howell Park is just one person’s opinion. But this coming Fall, when asked if the hickory nuts we step on are edible, I can at least speak as one who has tasted them.

Undeniably one of the hottest topics in archery today is the subject of high FOC. Some see this is just another trend, while others firmly state that this information is long overdue, and it will never go away. Trendy or not, there is no denying that FOC has its place and is important for an archer to have at least a basic understanding of how it effects arrow flight, accuracy, and penetration. I have been a long standing member of the high FOC Club, but just like anything else, you can have too much of a good thing.

Let’s look at some of the pros and cons of a high FOC setup.

WHAT IS FOC?

Lets start with a quick review of what FOC is. It stands for “Front of Center”. It is a percentage equation of your hunting arrows total weight that is located at the front half of the arrow. It is important to note that this calculation is with your broadhead on the arrow. The more weight you have at the front of your arrow, the more forward your balance point will be. Below is a great video explaining some easy steps and instructions to calculate your FOC.

PROS OF HIGH FOC

There are many opinions on the actual percentage consideration for high FOC with above 15% generally being considered high. With Doctor Ashby’s conclusion that there is a substantial penetration gain with arrows having 18% FOC or higher, you don’t have to look far for hunters that are promoting over 20% and even into the 30+ percent FOC range!

Lets look at some of the pros of high FOC. The biggest benefit to me in shooting high FOC is PENETRATION. There is no denying that increasing your front of center gives you more weight, more momentum, and more “pulling power”. Literally, high FOC helps “pull” your arrow through your intended target. I really think that pulling power should be considered a factor in a new hunting arrow formula we could call pass through potential. Where FOC X Draw Weight was divided by Pulling Power (P2) to get a number we could associate with a high probability for a pass through…we will work on that. 😊 Anyway, you get the idea. Penetration favors high FOC.

Another benefit towards penetration is to consider that with most high FOC arrow setups, you will be using a stiffer spine arrow. This causes less flex in your arrow as it enters your target allowing for more penetration, considering that the more flex you have, the more drag you create and that will impede penetration. High FOC can also help QUIET your bow, and some will say it improves your ACCURACY. For me, I do not feel accuracy really gets a big boost from increasing your front of center, but you will certainly give your setup a boost in its performance, so inherently your accuracy could benefit.

One great side effect of spending time playing with your FOC is that you are spending more time with your bow, allowing for improvements to occur in several areas of tuning your entire setup.

CONS OF HIGH FOC

With every good thing, there is also a point of simply over doing it. Generally when I am on the over doing it subject, I am referring to ice cream, but FOC is definitely in the same category, as it is all good until you have too much. No mater what you do in archery you cannot escape the laws of physics, with the law of gravity being the big factor here. At some point, too much FOC is no longer an asset. Remember the lawn dart game? Think of continuously adding weight to the end of your lawn dart. Eventually you wont be able to toss it close to hoop, let alone in it. Even though the dart will make a bigger divot in the dirt with each weight increase, if you cant reach your target what good is it?

When you get your FOC too high you are going to be sacrificing something. That something is going to be TRAJECTORY and SPEED. To be clear, as you move up in FOC, you are going to loose a little of both of those things no matter what, but with the right balance the good exceeds the bad. Too high of an FOC and you could find that a weary whitetail at a long distance can easily jump the string because your arrow is slower, and dropping more rapidly.

Another common issue with high FOC is using the WRONG SPINE arrow. High FOC will naturally weaken the spine of your arrow, and thus it could take your arrow longer to recover off the riser causing potential accuracy problems. Since adding more weight to the front of your arrow weakens the spine, it is very important to make sure you have the right spined arrow out of the gate. Starting your FOC process with an under spined arrow could even be dangerous, so consult your bow and arrow manufacturer before you jump into high FOC.

The last con I would like to mention is COST. If you get serious about high FOC, you may also get serious about spending money. Stiff spine, specialty arrows, weighted inserts, and heavy weight broadheads all come with an increased price tag. It doesn’t have to cost a fortune to shoot high FOC, but you can get caught up in it all very easily and quickly wind up with a single arrow that is over $50.00.

I am a big fan of high FOC, but as you have read it is important find a happy medium. You must factor in your average shot distance and your target species into the equation when you decide to go heavy up front. Also, be sure and be aware of your arrow spine when moving towards high FOC. You do not want to have an important factor like accuracy suffer because you are under or over spined. Thankfully, this process is not difficult and can be fun getting everything tuned just right to suit your needs.

Thank you for reading, and good luck in the field!

Chris Creed, Afflictor Broadheads

Reading Time: 10 minutes

For years, many people wrote off bowfishing as just for archery enthusiasts or off-season bowhunters. But over the last decade or so, this fishing technique has become a beloved sport for thousands of outdoor lovers. Fun and unique, bowfishing requires absolutely no previous angling experience, making it perfect for newbie fishers. If you’re looking to make your first bowfishing steps, you’ve come to the right place.

What is bowfishing?

As you might have guessed, bowfishing is hunting fish using a bow and arrow. Sounds simple enough, right? Perhaps, but bowfishing comes with a few twists here and there. At first glance, bowfishing is almost the same as bowhunting, but there are a few key differences.

Bowfishing targets are typically much, much, closer than the ones you’d find in the woods. With no need for long-range shooting skills, beginners find it very easy to get into the sport. Not only that, the close quarter shooting takes away much of the need for specialized equipment, too.

Still, that doesn’t mean that bowfishing doesn’t have its own nuances. You are targeting a moving underwater creature, after all. In this guide, we’ll cover the species you can expect to catch, go through the gear you’ll need, show you a few bowfishing techniques you’ll want to know about, and more.

By the time you’ve read this article, there’ll be nothing between you and a memorable bowfishing adventure. Let’s jump right into it.

Where can you bowfish?

Bowfishing can take place in a variety of waters, as long as they’re shallow and reasonably transparent. From lakes and reservoirs, to rivers and streams, you can bowfish pretty much in any type of freshwater. But that doesn’t mean that you can’t give the old bow and arrow a try in saltwater, as well. Shallow flats, estuaries and bays can be a great place to shoot ‘em up.

All these waters are what hunters like to call “target-rich environments”. In plain English, that means plenty of target practice, and plenty of fish to catch!

The Gulf coast of Louisiana and Florida are two of the most popular bowfishing hotspots in the US. The Mississippi, Missouri, and Trinity River are all teeming with fish, and are extremely popular among bowfishers. North of the border, the mighty St Lawrence River is a bowfisher’s paradise.

Boat or shore?

The great thing about bowfishing is that wading a riverbank can be just as productive as meandering inshore flats on a boat or kayak. If you do decide to hop on a motorboat, make sure you go out on a vessel with a shallow hull. This will allow you to get to the best bowfishing grounds.

Nowadays, you can find flat boats with specialized bowfishing platforms, downward-facing lights, and many other amenities.

What can you catch?

Contrary to what you might think, you can’t just grab a bow and shoot any random fish in the water. In most states, bowfishing for game species is illegal. Still, that doesn’t mean that you’ll have trouble finding a fish to catch.

In freshwater, bowfishers typically start their “careers” hunting Carp. From Common Carp, through Bighead, to Grass Carp, newbies will have their work cut out for them. Hunting these species won’t just earn you a nice meal, mind you. Carp are one of the most invasive freshwater species in the country, and by catching them, you’ll be doing the environment a giant favor, too.

Garfish are another freshwater staple. Shortnose, Longnose, Spotted and Alligator Gar are all popular catches, and are legal for bowfishing in most states. Tilapia is another popular target, as well as Drum. Throw Catfish and Buffalo in the mix for good measure, and you’ve already got a decent menu on your hands.

In saltwater, bowfishers can target some truly exciting nearshore species. Flounder is the obvious choice for most people, but you can also target Sheepshead and even smaller Sharks! Bowfishers In Louisiana are particularly lucky, because in addition to these, they can legally catch Redfish, too.

Bowfishing Gear

Compared to bowhunting gear, bowfishing equipment doesn’t need to be as complex or sophisticated. There are a few items that are specialized for this type of fishing, but you won’t need to break the bank to get your hands on them. The most important items you should have are your bow, arrows and reel.

Bows

Obviously, the bow is an important part of a bowfisher’s arsenal. Thankfully, any recurve or compound bow will do, especially if you’re a beginner. There are pros and cons to each type of bow, but in the end, things come down to personal preference.

Recurve bows are the more old-school option of the two – they are essentially traditional bows with tips curved to the front for power. They are lighter and easier to maintain, but require more strength and are slightly less precise than the mechanical compound bows.

What some archers and bowhunters get wrong is that they use their heavy duty bows for bowfishing. The thing is, you’re hunting critters just a few feet away. In most cases, a bow with 30-40 pounds of draw weight will be more than enough.

What your bow should have is the ability to support a reel and an arrow rest. And that’s about it. No fancy scopes needed. Again, this is just close quarter shooting we’re talking about. The “bare bones” approach isn’t just about saving money, mind you. Shedding the extra weight will save your arms a lot of effort, and that will do wonders for your accuracy.

Nowadays, you can find a number of ready-made bow packages, which have all the gear pre-attached to them. Buying one of these might be the easiest option for most people.

Reels

The reel can make or break your bowfishing success. There are three types of reels out there, each with its pros and cons. These are the hand reel, the bottle reel, and the spincast reel. Let’s take a look at each type.

Hand Reel

The simplest type of bowfishing reel is the hand reel. The ol’ faithful of the bowfishing world, this guy is nothing more than a drum with a line spool around it. Once you’ve shot your arrow, all you need to do is grab your line and roll it around the drum as you pull. Hopefully with a fish on the other end.

Not only is the hand reel simple to use, there’s literally nothing about it that can break. It’s also the most affordable type of reel. By a longshot. The drum reel is a popular choice among the traditional bowfishers, and it goes well with recurve bows.

The downside to the hand reel is that it requires heavier lines, and a lot more manual work compared to other types. Pulling a line with your bare hands will leave a mark, so make sure you have gloves on if you’re using this reel. Lastly, retrieving lines is a lot slower with hand reels, so you better hit the target on your first try.

Bottle Reel

The bottle reel is probably the most popular bowfishing reel out there. They are reliable, and generally make life a lot easier than hand reels. On one side, you have a bottle which serves to house your line. On the other, you have a handle, just like on any other fishing reel.

Like hand reels, bottle reels typically use heavier lines. You won’t have a problem pulling your line, but accurate longshots could pose a challenge.

Spincast Reel

Spincast reels are what many consider the cream of the crop. It’s essentially a proper fishing reel mounted on a bow, and most anglers find using it comes quite naturally. Spincast reels allow you to retrieve your line faster than any other reel. And because they use thinner line, you can work those long shots with much greater accuracy.

The downside to spincast reels is their price. They can also be a nuisance to clean and maintain. For this reason, they might not be the best option for novice bowfishers. If you’re a competitive bowfisher, however, this is probably the choice for you.

Arrows

Just like bows, bowfishing arrows are something you can buy pre-made, or customize to your own liking. There are a ton of varieties out there, but all are made out of three components: the shaft, the point, and the nock.

We know what you’re thinking, and the answer is no. Using hunting or archery arrows is a bad idea. The fletching on these arrows can steer a submerged arrow in the wrong direction, resulting in a missed shot. The two components you should keep an eye on when choosing an arrow are shaft material, and type of tip.

Arrow Material

There are three types of bowfishing arrow shafts out there: fiberglass, carbon, and hybrid. All are heavy and sturdy enough to keep enough power underwater to penetrate fish. However, if you’re after larger game, carbon shafts are the better option. The only downside is that they come at a much higher price.

Arrow Points

When it comes to choosing the arrow point, it’s all about the species you’re after. These arrows all come with barbed tips. The barbs are there to make sure that the arrow sits in place while you’re dragging the fish to shore. However, they are not all the same.

If you’re after bigger fish, like Carp, you’ll want an arrow point that doesn’t need to come clear out of the fish to “set” its barbs. The arrow might stop somewhere inside the fish, and you want to still be able to pull it out. On the other hand, if you’re dealing with a fish that’s hard-scaled, you’d better use a sharper, pointier tip, so that you can penetrate its skin.

Arrow Rest

This one’s pretty simple. The arrow rest is a stabilizer which keeps your arrow still as you line up your shot. There are several shapes and sizes out there, but there’s nothing too fancy about them. But the one thing you lefties should know is that there are ambidextrous arrow rests out there.

Safety

Bowfishing happens quickly. Often, you find yourself in a heart-pounding fire-reel-fire loop, where it’s easy to lose track of what’s happening. If you don’t pay attention, your line could tangle, or slide anywhere around the structure of the bow. If this happens, and you fire your shot, there’s a good chance that your arrow will snap back, potentially seriously injuring you or someone nearby.

This is why it’s crucial to have something called a safety slide. A safety slide is a simple contraption that moves down the shaft of your arrow, bringing your line to the front, thus preventing any tangles. This piece of equipment isn’t mandatory, but it’s highly recommended that you use one, especially if you’re a beginner.

Now, let’s get to the fun part.

How to Bowfish

Compared to other fishing techniques, bowfishing isn’t what you’d call “difficult”. With practice, and a few practical tricks up your sleeve, you can become as good as just about anyone. The two main factors you’ll want to consider are stealth, and aiming.

Stealth

Bowfishing is almost exclusively done at close range, and in shallow waters. The thing is, fish that reside in such waters tend to spook very easily. This is why slipping into your target’s quarter unnoticed is extremely important. This is especially true if you’re fishing from the shore or wading.

Thankfully, with a few cues in mind, you can creep up to the most wary of critters.

• If you’re moving in from the shore, move slowly and watch out for any twigs or branches on the ground, or anything else that might make a sound if you step on it.
• Avoid casting a shadow over the fish you’re trying to catch.
• If you’re wading or moving in on a vessel, try not to stir the water too much.
• If possible, make your approach from upwind.

Aiming

Now, here comes the skill part of bowfishing. To explain it, we’ll need to go over a very brief physics lesson.

Water is denser than air, and because of that, light travels through it differently. When light waves hit the water, they refract (or bend). In practice, this means that any underwater object you’re looking at is not actually where it appears to be. It’s lower.

To hit your target, you’ll need to aim below it, and probably more than your instinct will tell you. Bowfishers have a saying “aim low, then aim lower”. It won’t take long for you to realize how true this is. Knowing just how low you should aim will come with experience. Still, there are a couple of rules to help you start out.

• Aiming 6 inches lower. This is a simple but effective cue, particularly useful for beginners.
• The 10-4 rule. Slightly more advanced, this rule says that you should aim four inches low for every ten feet of distance, to hit a fish that’s a foot underwater. If the distance doubles or the fish is twice as deep in the water, aim twice as low.

To become a master marksman, you’re going to need a lot of practice. Thankfully, with bowfishing, things couldn’t be easier. All you need is a body of water, your gear, and a simple plastic bottle to submerge.

Gradually, you’ll develop your own instinctive feel for aiming. In time, your accuracy will improve to the point where aiming will become second nature.

When to Bowfish

In terms of seasonality, bowfishing is best during the spring spawns, or during summer. During these warm months, you can catch fish at almost any time of the day.

Many bowfishers like to hunt during early morning, or at dusk, because this is when the fish are most active. Of course, some days will be more productive than others. But to get the best results, you’ll want to go out when the waters are calm, and visibility is at its best. That means clear skies, and no winds.

Others will opt for hunting at night. Bowfishing after sundown is very popular among boat fishers. These outings happen on specialized bowfishing boats, equipped with downfacing lights. The lights illuminate the shallow waters, giving you an exceptionally clear view of the hunting grounds.

Shoot Your Shot

Bowfishing is one of the most addictive ways to catch fish, period. It’s easy to learn, and better yet, you can find a good spot almost anywhere in the country. It’s one of the few fishing techniques that allows you to catch a tasty dinner, help the environment, and have loads of fun doing it!

And that covers it. What’s your favorite thing about bowfishing? Any tips we might have missed? Let us know in the comments below!

Trying to decide between the .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Remington Magnum cartridges? Here’s what you need to know about them.

I think most hunters would agree that the 7mm Remington Magnum and .30-06 Springfield are both fantastic cartridges for hunting a wide variety of big game. Both offer certain advantages to hunters, but there are some significant differences between the 7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06 cartridges you should be aware of.

Unfortunately, important details about the cartridges sometimes get overlooked or simply lost in the shuffle. With that in mind, it’s easy to see how many people get confused about the strengths and weaknesses of the .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Remington Magnum, particularly when discussing which cartridge is best for hunting particular animals under specific conditions.

In this article, I’m going to do a detailed comparison of the 7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06 Springfield in order to show the differences between those cartridges so you can make an informed decision on which one will work best for you.

Before we get started, I have two administrative notes:

Some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Additionally, I recorded an entire podcast episode on this exact subject. If you’d rather listen than read, click the appropriate link below to listen to this episode on your preferred podcasting service.

Be sure to hit that “Subscribe” button in your podcast player!

30-06 vs 7mm Rem Mag Podcast

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History Of The .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Remington Magnum

Still smarting from a sobering lesson regarding the effectiveness of the 7mm Mauser in the hands of Spanish troops in Cuba in 1898, the U.S. Army decided it needed a new cartridge to replace the .30-40 Krag and .45-70 Government cartridges used by American Soldiers in the Spanish American War.

Specifically, they wanted a new service rifle that could compete with the revolutionary new Mauser rifle. Among other things, they were looking for a new bolt-action rifle designed from the start with a stronger action capable of safely firing more powerful smokeless ammunition, that could be quickly loaded with 5-round stripper clips, and with a “claw” extractor for more reliable feeding and extraction.

In the end, the new 1903 Springfield was modeled heavily on (some might say copied) the 1893 Spanish Mauser rifle. They originally chambered the new rifle in the .30-03 Springfield cartridge, which fired a 220gr round nosed bullet at approximately 2,300fps. While the .30-03 did provide a modest improvement in performance over the .30-40 Krag, the Army still wasn’t completely happy with the performance of the cartridge.

For this reason, they made a few tweaks to the design of the .30-03 Springfield. Switching over to a revolutionary new 150gr “spitzer” (pointed) bullet fired at a muzzle velocity of 2,700 fps gave them the results they were looking for.

Named after the year it was formally introduced, the .30-06 Springfield was a significant improvement over previous military cartridges used during that era.

In addition to extensive use with the U.S. military, the .30-06 Springfield cartridge also rapidly caught on with the big game hunting and shooting communities in the United States during the early 20th Century.

The old .30-06 remains one of the most popular centerfire rifle cartridges in the United States (as well as many other parts of the world) to this day. Not surprisingly, the .30-06 has also served as the parent for many other cartridges (like the .25-06 Remington and .35 Whelen).

The .30-06 Springfield has also long been the standard against which new centerfire rifle cartridges are measured against in the United States.

Now let’s fast forward a couple decades from the introduction of the .30-06.

The years following World War II were a true renaissance of civilian firearm and cartridge development in the United States. That time period saw a flood of new centerfire rifle cartridges like the .223 Remington, .280 Remington, and .308 Winchester.

That same general time period also saw the start of “Magnum Era” when Winchester introduced a line of new belted magnum cartridges that utilized a modified .375 H&H case. The .458 Winchester Magnum came along first in 1956 and was quickly followed by the .338 Winchester Magnum and the .264 Winchester Magnum during the next couple of years.

All of those cartridges utilized a .375 H&H Magnum case necked down (or up, in the case of the .458 Win Mag) and shortened from 2.85″ to 2.5″ long. The designers used those shortened cases so all three cartridges would fit in a standard length rifle action (same as the .30-06 Springfield) instead of the longer magnum length action required by the original .375 H&H cartridge.

Remington took a page out of Winchester’s playbook and rolled out their own belted magnum cartridge in 1962: the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Often referred to as the 7mm Rem Mag, 7mm RM, or 7mm Mag, the new Remington cartridge also used a shortened .375 H&H Magnum case. Instead of using .264″, .338″, .458″, and later .308″ bullets like Winchester did with their magnums, Remington loaded their new cartridge with .284″ bullets.

The use of the larger case based on the .375 H&H along with the use of 7mm/.284″ bullets by the 7mm Remington Magnum resulted in a significant ballistic improvement over the .30-06.

Indeed, the 7mm Mag is capable of shooting the same weight bullet faster than the .30-06.

Additionally, the smaller diameter .284″ bullets the 7mm Mag uses have a higher ballistic coefficient and more sectional density than .30 caliber bullets of the same weight used by the .30-06 Springfield (when comparing bullets of similar construction).

For those reasons, typical 7mm Rem Mag loads have a flatter trajectory, more energy remaining downrange, and (all other things equal) will penetrate better than .30-06 Springfield loads using the same weight bullets.

The new 7mm Remington Magnum cartridge also fit in a standard length rifle action. And to top it all off, the 7mm Remington Magnum was rolled out at the same time as the now legendary Remington Model 700 rifle.

So, American hunters and shooters were immediately offered the chance to use a new high performance cartridge that was available in a well built, reasonably priced, and very accurate new rifle.

With all that in mind, it’s not surprising at all that the flat shooting and hard hitting 7mm Rem Mag quickly caught on with hunters and shooters in North America.

30-06 vs 7mm Rem Mag: Cartridge Sizes

You can see differences between the .30-06 Springfield and the 7mm Remington Magnum in the photos below.

First, the 7mm Rem Mag is physically a little larger than the .30-06.

While the .30-06 has a slightly greater maximum authorized overall length (3.34″ vs 3.29″), they are close enough in size that both cartridges are used in standard/long-action rifles. However, the 7mm Remington Magnum has a larger .532″ rim diameter while the .30-06 has a .473″ rim diameter.

At the same time, the 7mm Rem Mag has a steeper 25 degree shoulder (the .30-06 has a 17.5 degree shoulder) that also sits a tiny bit further forward than the shoulder of the .30-06.

The end result is that the 7mm Rem Mag has a much larger case capacity than the .30-06.

Bullet size is another one of the other obvious differences between the 7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06. Each cartridge uses different diameter bullets: .284″ for the Remington cartridge and .308″ for the Springfield.

Everything else being equal, the smaller diameter 7mm bullets have a higher ballistic coefficient and a higher sectional density than the larger diameter bullets of the same weight from the .30-06 Springfield. However, the .30-06 generally uses heavier bullets than the 7mm Remington Magnum.

The vast majority of 7mm Rem Mag factory loads shoot bullets in the 139-175 grain range. Of these, 140 grain, 150 grain, 160 grain, and 175 grain loads are by far the most common.

On the other hand, though it’s possible to find .30-06 ammo shooting bullets weighing as little as 110 grains and as heavy as 220 grains, most .30-06 Springfield factory loads use 150 grain, 165 grain, 180 grain, or 200 grain bullets.

The 7mm Remington Magnum is also loaded to a higher pressure than the .30-06 (61,000psi vs 60,000psi).

Note: while the powder capacity figures listed below do give a good indication of the differences between the two cartridges, exact case capacities vary slightly according to the brand of brass used.

30-06 vs 7mm Rem Mag Ballistics

Not surprisingly, the differences in the external dimensions of the 7mm Remington Magnum and the .30-06 Springfield translate into some pretty significant differences in their ballistic performance. This is illustrated in the table below comparing Hornady Precision Hunter, Federal Premium Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, and Winchester Deer Season XP factory ammunition.

I chose those particular factory loads because they provide a good demonstration of the performance of each cartridge when using wide spectrum of different bullets. The Winchester loads use light for caliber bullets, the Federal loads use very heavy for caliber bullets, and the Hornady loads use heavy for caliber, exceptionally aerodynamic bullets for each cartridge.

Specifically, the 7mm Remington Magnum loads use a 140gr Extreme Point (.484 BC), a 162gr ELD-X (.631 BC), and a 175gr Trophy Bonded Bear Claw (.407 BC). The .30-06 loads use a 150gr Extreme Point (.392 BC), a 178gr ELD-X (.552 BC), and a 200gr Trophy Bonded Bear Claw (.395 BC).

Note that the bullets used by 7mm Remington Magnum in each load are more aerodynamic than those used by the .30-06 Springfield for the exact same load. More on this in a minute.

All six loads used a 200 yard zero.

As you can see, the 7mm Remington Magnum has a flatter trajectory and more kinetic energy than comparable .30-06 Springfield loads at all ranges. Additionally, since it uses more aerodynamic bullets with a higher ballistic coefficient, that gap in performance grows in favor of the 7mm Mag as range increases.

Specifically, the 7mm Rem Mag has about 2-4% more muzzle energy than the .30-06 with these three particular loads. That turns into a 9-25% advantage in favor of 7mm Rem Mag at 500 yards.

At 500 yards, the various .30-06 loads have about 7-10″ (~20%) more bullet drop than comparable 7mm Rem Mag loads.

We’ll talk more about those numbers and what they mean in a minute.

The chart below compares how much a 10 mile per hour crosswind impacts those same 7mm Rem Mag and .30-06 loads out to 500 yards.

As you can see, the 7mm Remington Magnum also has a big advantage in this area as well. That makes sense since the cartridge is shooting more aerodynamic bullets at a higher velocity.

The exact details vary by load of course. Once again though, the gap in performance increases with range in favor of the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Update 25 July 2022:

What about the 175gr TBBC vs 178gr ELD-X?

I’ve received a number of questions and comments regarding the fact that the 178gr ELD-X load from the 30-06 has a flatter trajectory and more retained energy than the 175gr 7mm Trophy Bonded Bear Claw.

Those two bullets are closest in weight, so comparing those two loads is the best comparison of those cartridges, right?

Absolutely not.

Take a look at the photo below (178gr .30 cal ELD-X on the left and 175gr 7mm TBBC on the right) and the reasons why should be obvious.

For a detailed discussion on this exact subject (to include why it’s NOT appropriate to compare different bullets of the same or similar weight), check out this post on Patreon.

Moving on, let’s talk about recoil.

The table below compares the recoil produced by the handloads that approximate the performance of the Hornady Precision Hunter factory load above for each cartridge when fired from identical 8 pound rifles.

Felt recoil will vary from shooter to shooter and rifle to rifle, but free recoil energy is still a useful way to compare cartridges.

As you can see, the 7mm Remington Magnum has slightly more recoil than the .30-06. In this case, the 7mm Rem Mag produces 7.5% more free recoil energy than the .30-06.

That should not be surprising at all. After all, the 7mm Rem Mag is a heavy hitting belted magnum that burns a lot more powder and produces higher velocities.

Basically, the 7mm Rem Mag should be expected to hit a little harder on both ends, which is exactly the case.

This can be mitigated to a certain extent with the use of a suppressor, muzzle brake, or a good recoil pad. So the extra recoil of the 7mm Rem Mag isn’t necessarily a deal breaker for many people, especially since it only recoils a little more than the .30-06. All things considered, the 7mm Remington Magnum is one of the more lighter recoiling magnums (particularly when compared to the .300 Win Mag or .338 Win Mag).

Recoil is certainly worth considering though. If we’re being honest, neither cartridge is really suitable for hunters or shooters who are very sensitive to recoil.

Don’t underestimate the impact that recoil has on the ability of a person to shoot accurately either. Some people do handle recoil better than others, but all other things being equal, they will absolutely shoot more accurately with a milder recoiling cartridge.

Additionally, there are a couple of other factors that are also worth discussing though.

First, the .30-06 uses larger diameter bullets than the 7mm Rem Mag.

Specifically, the larger diameter .308″ bullets used by the .30-06 have about 18% more frontal surface area (also known as cross sectional area) than the .284″ bullets used by the 7mm Rem Mag (.0745 vs .0633 square inches). All other things being equal, a bigger bullet will make a bigger hole, cause more tissue damage, and result in more blood loss.

This is a definite, though slight, factor in favor of the .30-06.

On the other hand, as we covered earlier, those longer, heavy for caliber .284″ bullets have a higher ballistic coefficient than the most common bullets used in the .30-06 though.

The .284″/7mm bore diameter is in something of a sweet spot where it’s easier to manufacture very high BC bullets that’s aren’t especially heavy. Those aerodynamic projectiles don’t slow down as fast and are more resistant to wind drift.

The most popular 7mm bullets also have a relatively high sectional density (SD).

Sectional density (SD) is a measure of the ratio of the diameter of a projectile to its mass. All other things equal, a heavier projectile of a given caliber will be longer and therefore have a higher sectional density and consequently penetrate deeper than projectiles with a lower mass and sectional density.

Everything else being equal, the smaller diameter 7mm bullets have a higher ballistic coefficient and a higher sectional density than the larger diameter bullets of the same weight from the .30-06 Springfield. However, the .30-06 generally uses heavier bullets than the 7mm Remington Magnum.

All that being said, the 7mm Rem Mag still has a slight edge with most bullets in common use, even when compared to heavier .30 caliber bullets.

As an example, 140 grain, 150 grain, and 175 grain .284″ bullets have sectional densities of .248, .266, and .310 respectively. This compares favorably to 150 grain, 180 grain, and 200 grain .308″ bullets which have sectional densities of .226, .271, and .301 respectively.

This also applies to ballistic coefficient.

The bullets used in this comparison illustrate those differences well with the 7mm Remington Magnum using 140gr (.484 BC), 162gr (.631 BC), and 175gr (.407 BC) bullets compared to the 150gr (.392 BC), 178gr (.552 BC), and 200gr (.395 BC) bullets used by the .30-06.

What about 7mm Rem Mag vs .30-06 Springfield accuracy?

Gun writers have spilled a lot of ink comparing the accuracy of the 7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06 over the years. While picking the most accurate cartridge of the two is a relatively contentious subject, most people agree that both the 7mm Mag and .30-06 are capable of excellent accuracy.

Not surprisingly, both cartridges have seen extensive use in long range shooting competitions and both have served with distinction with military and police snipers as well as with for precision shooters.

So where do we stand with each cartridge?

7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06

The 7mm Rem Mag fires smaller caliber and lighter, but generally more aerodynamic bullets at a higher velocity than the .30-06 Springfield. The 7mm Rem Mag has a flatter trajectory, more kinetic energy at typical hunting ranges, and is also better for longer range shots, but the .30-06 has less recoil.

With a flatter trajectory, less wind drift, and more retained energy at extended range, the 7mm Rem Mag does have a definite, though not gigantic, advantage over the .30-06 Springfield in external ballistics at typical hunting ranges. This makes the cartridge a little more forgiving of range or wind estimation errors than the .30-06 Springfield.

While that’s certainly something to keep in mind, laser rangefinders and modern scopes with easily adjustable ballistic turrets (like the Leupold VX-5) make adjusting for bullet drop much simpler now than it was a few decades ago.

The most popular bullet weights for the 7mm Rem Mag also tend to be more aerodynamic than the most popular bullet weights used by the .30-06. So, the advantages the 7mm Remington Magnum cartridge has with energy, trajectory, and wind drift grow slightly at extended range.

Those 7mm bullets also tend to have a higher sectional density as well, which assists with penetration to help the cartridge “punch above its weight” in a manner similar to the 7x57mm or 9.3x62mm Mauser cartridges.

As good as the .30-06 is (and I do think it’s an excellent cartridge), the 7mm Remington Magnum just simply hits with a little more authority, especially at longer range.

On the other hand, the .30-06 has an advantage when it comes to frontal surface area (which gives a tiny bit more room for error with shot placement), uses heavier bullets, and has a little less recoil.

It might seem like I’m splitting hairs here when talking about the strengths and weaknesses of the two cartridges. That’s absolutely true to a certain degree.

While they certainly have different advantages, both cartridges are very accurate, relatively flat shooting, and hit hard enough for use on a variety of game out to several hundred yards. The 7mm Rem Mag may be a better choice for use on bigger game and/or on game at longer range, but the .30-06 is still a darn good cartridge.

However, regardless of whether you’re using a 7mm Remington Magnum or a .30-06 Springfield, no deer, elk, black bear, moose or pronghorn will go far if you put a well constructed bullet into the vitals during a real world hunting scenario.

30-06 vs 7mm Rem Mag Barrel Life

Since the two cartridges have a different bore diameter and vastly different case capacities, there can be some significant difference in barrel life with the three cartridges.

Simply put, burning more powder in a similar sized space will result in shorter barrel life.

At the same time, burning more powder is a smaller sized space will result in even shorter barrel life.

Well, the 7mm Remington Magnum has a smaller bore size and uses a much bigger powder charge.

This means that, in general, the 7mm Rem Mag will simply wear out barrels faster than the .30-06 Springfield. Exactly how fast that occurs depends on a number of factors like the quality of the barrel, the exact ammunition used, etc.

For serious target shooters, this can be a concern. However, the good news for hunters is that typical barrel life for all of these cartridges is more than enough to last for many, many years of hunting with no issues at all.

So, there isn’t a tremendous practical difference in 7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06 barrel life as far as most hunters are concerned.

7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06 Ammo

The .30-06 Springfield and the 7mm Remington Magnum are both extremely popular centerfire rifle cartridges. That said, the .30-06 is definitely the most widely used of the two in general, though the 7mm Remington Magnum is by no means rare.

So, they’re both in common use and ammo is usually easy to find for both. Availability also likely varies regionally though. For instance, more people tend to use the 7mm Remington Magnum in many western states where they’re more likely to need the advantages the cartridge provides at longer range.

In general, .30-06 ammo is typically noticeably cheaper than 7mm Rem Mag ammo.

The big ammunition manufacturers like Barnes, Berger, Browning, Federal Premium, Hornady, HSM, Nosler, Remington, Sierra, Sig Sauer, Swift, and Winchester produce an incredible variety of ammo for the .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Remington Magnum.

In each case, there is normally a good selection of bullet types and weights for each cartridge suitable for big game hunting ranging from stuff like Remington Core Lokt and Winchester Super X ammo to Federal Premium Gold Medal and Hornady Precision Hunter factory loads.

During normal times, it’s usually very easy to find ammo for both cartridges and almost any gun or sporting goods store will have a wide variety of .30-06 and 7mm Rem Mag ammo in stock.

Ammo availability is also usually excellent online and the bigger retailers typically have a good selection of quality factory ammo for both cartridges as well.

BUY SOME GREAT 7mm REM MAG AMMO HERE

BUY SOME EXCELLENT 30-06 SPRINGFIELD AMMO HERE

If you’d like to learn more about some of the various hunting ammunition choices for the 7mm Remington Magnum and 30-06 cartridges, read these articles:

Best 7mm Rem Mag Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, And Other Big Game

Best 30-06 Ammo For Hunting Elk, Deer, Bear, Hogs, & Other Game

Handloaders will appreciate the fact that reloading components for both cartridges are also readily available and there’s an especially wide variety of bullet choices for each cartridge. So, you should not have any trouble working up a good custom load for either one if you like to handload.

The 7mm Remington Magnum uses the same .284″ bullet size as the 7mm-08 Remington, .280 Remington, .280 Ackley Improved, 7mm WSM, 7mm STW, 7mm Weatherby Magnum, and 7mm Remington Ultra Magnum.

The .30-06 Springfield uses the same .308″ bullet size as the .308 Winchester, .30-30 Winchester, .300 Win Mag, 300 WSM, .300 Ultra Mag, and .300 PRC.

Bullets like the Barnes LRX, TSX, TTSX, and TAC-X, the Berger VLD and Hybrid Hunter, the Hornady A-Max, ELD-X, GMX, InterBond, InterLock, SST, and V-Max, the Nosler AccuBond, Ballistic Tip, E-Tip, and Partition, the Sierra GameChanger and GameKing, the Swift Scirocco and A-Frame, (just to name a few) are options for if you want to reload the 7mm Remington Magnum and the .30-06 Springfield.

7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06 Rifles

In addition to the great selection of ammunition available in 7mm Remington Magnum and .30-06, there are also many quality rifles manufactured in these cartridges.

Both cartridges are extremely common in bolt-action rifles. In fact, just about every really popular bolt-action hunting rifle in current production is available in both cartridges.

For instance, both the 7mm Remington Magnum and .30-06 Springfield are available in several different versions of the Remington Model 700 and Winchester Model 70. The same goes for the Browning X-Bolt, Browning AB3, Christensen Arms Ridgeline, Kimber Hunter, Mossberg Patriot, Ruger Hawkeye, Savage Axis, Savage 110, Tikka T3 and Tikka T3x, Weatherby Vanguard, and Winchester XPR.

That said, the .30-06 is the more popular of the two. So, there’s generally a better selection of rifles in that chambering. It’s also easier to find .30-06 rifles that are less expensive.

On the other hand, while it’s also available in a wide range of rifle models, the 7mm Rem Mag is more common with higher end rifles designed for better performance at longer ranges. That’s not a hard and fast rule though.

It’s also important to realize that gun manufacturers tend to put longer barrels on rifles chambered in 7mm Remington Magnum (and other magnum cartridges in general). This is because those cartridges need a longer barrel to effectively and efficiently burn that larger powder charge.

All things considered, rifles chambered in 7mm Rem Mag tend to be slightly longer, heavier, and more unwieldy than rifles chambered in .30-06.

The Ruger Hawkeye Hunter illustrates these differences well.

When chambered in .30-06 Springfield, the rifle has a 22″ barrel, an overall length of 42.75″, and weighs 7.4 pounds. The same rifle chambered in 7mm Remington Magnum has a 24″ barrel, is 44.75″ long, and weighs 8.1 pounds.

The rifle chambered in 7mm Remington Magnum is 2″ longer and weighs nearly a pound more than the exact same model chambered in .30-06.

Barrel lengths do vary depending on the manufacturer and exact model. However, 22″ barrels are very common with the .30-06 while 24″ and even 26″ barrels are pretty standard with the 7mm Remington Magnum.

Having a shorter and lighter rifle is more important on some hunts than on others. So, just keep that in mind.

BUY A GREAT 7mm REM MAG RIFLE HERE

BUY A NICE 30-06 SPRINGFIELD RIFLE HERE

7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06: Which Is Right For You?

Do you primarily hunt medium sized game like whitetail deer, feral hogs, or black bear at ranges within 200 yards? Both are extremely effective deer hunting cartridges and will absolutely get the job done on medium sized game if you do your part. The .30-06 in particular is a great deer hunting cartridge and remains one of the most popular North American hunting cartridges. There’s nothing wrong with using the 7mm Rem Mag on deer inside of 200 yards, but it’s really more gun than you need for that sort of work though (and it’s also a little rougher on both the shoulder and wallet).

If you’re going to be hunting in thick brush or in the tight confines of a deer stand, remember what I just mentioned about the size difference with 30-06 vs 7mm Rem Mag rifles. That extra couple of inches in overall length of a rifle can be a real headache to deal with when trying to quickly and quietly maneuver for a shot.

Are you looking for the cartridge better suited for long range hunting for game like mule deer or pronghorn in open country where you might need to take a shot at several hundred yards? Once again, they’ll both work really well in this role. The .30-06 Springfield is a very good choice for this sort of hunting, but this is where the 7mm Rem Mag really starts to shine because it carries more energy out past 200 yards. The advantages the cartridge has in terms of bullet drop and wind drift start to become much more important at longer range as well. Not surprisingly, the 7mm Rem Mag is very popular with antelope hunters in places like Wyoming where windy conditions are common.

Do you want a hunting cartridge that’s well suited for caribou, moose, elk, eland, kudu, or red stag hunting? The .30-06 Springfield is a fantastic choice for use on bigger game and there’s not a darn thing wrong with using it on one of those hunts. Personally, I lean towards the .30-06 because it uses larger diameter and heavier bullets, but there’s also a good argument to be made for the 7mm Rem Mag as well, especially on hunts were a longer range shot might be necessary. With this in mind, some people prefer the 7mm Rem Mag because it carries more kinetic energy downrange (especially at longer range) and because it uses high SD bullets that tend to penetrate a little better.

Regardless of which cartridge you choose, use a controlled expansion projectile and a heavier bullet weight for your elk or moose hunt.

Are you specifically hunting brown or grizzly bear? What if you hunt in Canada or Alaska and need a heavy hitting cartridge just in case you find yourself on the wrong end of a grizzly/brown bear attack? Neither would be my first choice for use on those hunts. That said, they will definitely work in a pinch. Of the two, I’d go with the .30-06 since it uses larger diameter and heavier bullets. Make sure you use premium, heavy for caliber 200gr or 220gr bullets if you go that route (the 200gr Trophy Bonded Bear Claw I mentioned earlier is a darn good choice).

For what it’s worth, Roy Lindsley used a .30-06 Springfield to take the current Boone & Crockett record Alaska brown bear back in 1952. But then again, that hunt took place before cartridges like the 7mm Remington Magnum, .300 Winchester Magnum, and .338 Winchester Magnum even existed.

Are you sensitive to recoil and in need of a serious low recoil cartridge? Neither is known as being a light recoiling cartridge. That said, the .30-06 does tend to have a little bit less free recoil energy than the 7mm Rem Mag.

Do you want the round that is best suited for target shooting out past 400 yards or so in a precision rifle? Both will work and have excellent reputations for precision shooting, but I lean towards the 7mm Remington Magnum here because of the advantages the cartridge has for longer range shooting.

The 7mm Remington Magnum and .30-06 Springfield are both excellent rifle cartridges. While the 7mm Remington Magnum does offer certain advantages over the .30-06 in some aspects, the old “aught six” is still getting it done well over a century after coming on the scene! All things considered, the difference between them (7mm Rem Mag vs 30-06) isn’t as great as it is sometimes made out to be and the animal will never know the difference if your shot is placed in the right spot.

So, carefully analyze your potential needs before making a decision. If you really need the advantages the 7mm Remington Magnum offers, then by all means purchase one. However, the .30-06 will work really well for most hunters. In the end, a lot of this decision comes down to personal preference. So, choose the one that you feel most comfortable with and it will probably serve you well afield. Good luck!

NEXT: 308 vs 30-06 SPRINGFIELD vs 300 WIN MAG: WHICH SHOULD YOU HUNT WITH?

Enjoy this article comparing the .30-06 Springfield and 7mm Remington Magnum cartridges? Please share it with your friends on Facebook and Twitter.

The Lyman 50th Edition (p214-216 and p246-250) and Hornady 10th Edition (p406-411 and p510-522) reloading manuals were used as references for the history of the cartridges. I obtained the data used to compare the trajectory of the cartridges from Hornady (here and here), Federal Premium (here and here), and Winchester (here and here). Data used to calculate recoil was obtained from the Hornady reloading manual. Case capacities were obtained from Chuck Hawks (here). Maximum pressure obtained from SAAMI (p23 & 29). I used ShootersCalculator.com to compare trajectory and recoil for the cartridges.

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There are a variety of dog breeds that make excellent hunting dogs. The Labrador Retriever, Mountain Cur, Vizsla, and even the short Beagle, are a few examples of the perfect hunting companion. Although these dogs look completely different in color, size, and structure, they share the same instinctual nature: hunting. A hunting dog needs to have boundless energy to complete the tasks set by its owners. They need good muscle strength and strong bones to catch or retrieve game and walk long distances.

A hunting dog’s diet is vital for them to excel in their abilities and must include plenty of good nutrition. Always take your dog’s energy level, age, sensitivities, and weight into consideration when buying food.

We’ve listed a few great hunting dog food options below complete with in-depth reviews to help you in your search—but remember that due to their high protein and fat content, they’ll lead to weight gain if fed to an inactive dog. You may want to switch your dog’s food when out of hunting season.

A Glance at Our Winners in 2024

The 11 Best Foods for Hunting Dogs

1. Ollie Fresh Dog Food Beef Recipe Subscription Service – Best Overall

Hunting dogs work up quite the appetite in a day’s work. That is why it’s important to choose a hardy dog food that will satisfy their hunger while ensuring they receive the proper nutrients to maintain an active lifestyle. Ollie Fresh Dog Food Beef Recipe is our best overall pick for food for hunting dogs since this recipe is appealing, nutritious, and filling. With a limited ingredient list, starting with real meat proteins (also available in chicken, turkey, or lamb) and fresh vegetables rich in vitamins, minerals, and fiber, you can trust that your dog will be happy and healthy. Ollie’s meals are free of any byproducts or additives and are suitable for all life stages.

Once you complete a short questionnaire about your dog based on its age, weight, breed, and dietary needs, Ollie provides you with customized meal plans. You can also adjust the frequency of your deliveries, which eliminates the risk of running out of stock and last-minute trips to the store.

If you are looking for a dog food rich in antioxidants, that promotes healthy digestion and supports an active lifestyle, look no further than Ollie Dog Food.

Taste of the Wild High Prairie Grain-Free Dry Dog Food has three excellent first ingredients of water buffalo, lamb meal, and chicken meal, resulting in a high protein content of 32% for a low and affordable price, making this our favorite budget food for hunting dogs.

It has a fat content of 18% and contains complex carbs to give your hunting dog the energy they need while keeping them feeling full until its next meal. It contains prebiotics to improve your dog’s gut, resulting in less gas and healthier poop. The omega-3 improves their coat, leaving it soft and shiny. This dog food isn’t every dog’s pick, however, as some simply refuse to eat it.

Puppies need the best, and Adirondack’s dog recipe gives them just that, at an affordable price point. This puppy food is well-balanced and contains 30% protein and 20% fat to develop your pup into a strong and healthy dog that has lean muscles, ready for the hunting grounds.

This tasty meal is slow-cooked to preserve as many nutrients as possible and is free from fillers and artificial flavors. All the ingredients are from the USA and are of high quality. It’s suitable for pups with sensitive tummies and will pack the weight that they’ve lost back on in no time. Kibbles are small, which is great for pups but a struggle for bigger dogs.

Although expensive, ORIJEN Regional Red Grain-Free Dry Dog Food is well-loved by both dogs and owners and has every reason to be at the top of our list as our premium choice. With beef, wild boar, goat, lamb, and lamb liver as the first few ingredients, you already know that this is a meal suited for a high-performance dog, with a 38% protein content. It includes essential vitamins and minerals, with the remaining 85% consisting of animal ingredients.

The kibbles are freeze-dried coated, locking in the fresh, tasty ingredients. Dogs on this kibble often experience better skin and a reduction in rashes and shedding. They often start smelling better, too—from their breath to their odor. The only downsides are the price, and that the bag isn’t resealable.

Specifically designed for hunting dogs is the Inukshuk Professional Dry Dog Food. Due to its 30% protein and 25% fat your dog will receive the high nutrition and high energy necessary for a high-performance lifestyle. It’s also packed with prebiotics and omega-3 fatty acids to keep your dog healthy and their coat flourishing, along with aiding in good joints for their activities.

This kibble is nutrient-dense and contains 578 kcal/cup, which means that you can give your dog everything they need in a smaller serving of food, which ultimately saves you money. Inukshuk is a family-owned business that cares about dogs, and they give you the option to buy straight from them too.

The VICTOR Classic Hi-Pro Plus Formula Dry Dog Food is another great dog food for hunting dogs. 88% of this dog food is made of meat protein, with some of its ingredients being beef meal, pork meal, and chicken meal, giving your dog plenty of nourishing proteins.

It’s also high in fat, with a crude content of 20%, giving your hunting dog the energy they need for high performance. It’s suitable for active puppies and adults, as well as lactating females. It’s also packed with vitamins and minerals to maintain your dog’s health and is highly digestible.

All the ingredients in this product are sourced from the USA, with none of them containing gluten, corn, wheat, or grain. The kibble is small, though, and may prove challenging to eat for large dogs.

Even though the Wellness Core Grain-Free Original Deboned Turkey, Turkey Meal & Chicken Meal Recipe Dry Dog Food is pricey, it’s highly worth it and acts as one of the best foods you can get for your hunting dog.

Since it’s made from human ingredients, it’s packed with nutritious value. Most dogs love this food and tend to get upset if you switch from it.

Overall, it’s good for your dog’s coat and gives them a strong muscle tone. If you have the budget for food of this quality, we highly suggest that you do.

Taking it even higher in price is the Purina Pro Plan 30/20 Chicken & Rice Formula Dry Dog Food. We love this food as it is specially made for high-performance dogs, making it a perfect option for hunting dogs.

It’s a high-calorie food that will keep your dog energized and happy. The ingredients put focus on protein, which is the main reason why this food will keep an active dog energized. On top of that, it includes live probiotics that aid in your dog’s health.

Unfortunately, the food’s price has suddenly increased over the past while, leading many people to switch their dogs to something more affordable.

One interesting thing about the Blue Buffalo Wilderness Chicken Recipe Grain-Free Dry Dog Food is that it comes in small kibble sizes. While this may make some dogs frustrated, it’s great for hunting dogs that tend to eat their food incredibly quickly.

We love that it includes healthy carbs in the ingredients from foods such as peas and sweet potatoes. It’s also made with real chicken to help your dog put on lean muscle.

If you do not want small kibbles, you can move on from this particular option but if you’re happy with the kibble size, your hunting dog is sure to love the taste of this food.

Nature’s Logic Canine Duck & Salmon Meal is dog food for puppies and adults that are active in hunting, working, and sporting. It has one of the highest crude protein levels on this list at 38% and contains ingredients such as duck meal, turkey meal, and salmon meal.

This recipe is natural, right down to the packaging that was produced with renewable electricity. There are a couple of kibble options to choose from, allowing you to change your dog’s food up a bit, never giving them the chance to get bored. The price has increased a lot recently, though, which has left a few consistent customers unhappy.

The Holistic Select Adult Health Lamb Meal Recipe Dry Dog Food is excellent for picky eaters. Sometimes, all the different flavors can be too much for a sensitive dog, and they may do better on this single-protein dog food. The first three ingredients are lamb meal, oatmeal, and peas, and the rest are made up of probiotics, antioxidants, omega-3, glucosamine, and taurine that protect your dog’s heart and body.

The protein content is less than other dog foods on this list at 23% and a fat content of 15%, but that can be enjoyed on off-seasons when they don’t require as much energy as on the hunting grounds require but enough to keep them active for hiking and other outdoor activities. The downside is that there have been a few quality-control issues around this particular dog food.

Buyer’s Guide: Buying the Best Dog Food for Hunting Dogs

All the dog foods listed above are good, but how do you know they’re good for your dog specifically? Well, you’ll need to make the decision based on your dog’s lifestyle, weight, health issues, and age. If your dog doesn’t have any health concerns, any of these foods will do them well. However, if you’re considering a different food option for your hunting dog, there are a few factors that you should take into consideration.

Protein

First and foremost, your hunting dog needs a high-protein diet. Protein builds strong, lean muscles that give them the force to run, catch, and retrieve game while hunting. Make sure that an animal-derived protein is first on the list of ingredients because it’ll indicate that it’s the most amount ingredient in the product, which is what your hunting dog needs.

Also, look out for dog foods that have the name of the meat at the start of its name, as this indicates that the product will have at least 95% of the ingredients in the product. Venison, chicken, fish, and lamb are good, tasty protein options.

Carbohydrates and Fat

Your dog food should contain around 20% carbohydrates. Carbohydrates provide your dog with energy, but fats do too. Fats offer longer-lasting energy and contain lots of calories. The good fat content will give your hunting dog the energy and endurance they need, produce a healthy coat, and increase wound healing. However, they can increase the risk of obesity.

Avoid Fillers

Many people have a negative understanding of by-products when it comes to dog food; however, most are completely safe and nutritious for your dog. Although they’re not suitable for people to eat, dogs will benefit from them as they come directly from an animal. By-products include the lungs, brain, liver, bone, intestines, etc., that aren’t dangerous to dogs.

Large amounts of fillers, on the other hand, should be avoided. They’re used in place of natural, high-quality ingredients and can lead to health issues, allergic reactions, and problematic weight gain. Most dog foods contain a few fillers, which is okay if they’re near the bottom of the ingredients list. Some fillers, such as rice, are considered “good” fillers, while you should always avoid MSG and syrups.

Energy

The number of calories you should serve your dog is going to depend on their weight and energy levels. During hunting season, your dog will burn more calories and will require more energy to perform well. Even the weather has an impact on their energy levels—if they’re hunting in the cold, they’ll be burning even more calories because their bodies will be working harder to keep them warm.

When your dog isn’t hunting, it won’t require as many calories because it won’t be burning as much energy. Feeding your dog the same number of calories as you fed them during hunting season may result in unhealthy weight gain.

A hunting dog burns more energy than a normal dog and, therefore, requires high-performance food, which differs from normal dog food with its higher protein and fat content.

Final Thoughts

At the top of our list is the Ollie Fresh Dog Food, thanks to the high meat protein and limited, human-grade ingredient list. The best budget dog food on our list is the Taste of the Wild High Prairie Grain-Free Dry Dog Food. It may be cheaper, but it doesn’t skimp on quality.

Remember to use these food options during hunting seasons as the high protein and fat content will cause weight gain if consumed the same way during off-seasons.

Featured Image Credit: Nadezhda Zaitseva, Shutterstock