What we’ve done to judge the fastest crossbow in 2024

The fastest crossbow in 2024 is the TenPoint Nitro 505.

My recommendation, however is the Ravin R500 or the R29.

Read on to find out why.

For each crossbow’s FPS (feet-per-second), we sourced information from manufacturers and tests, and are confident it’s the most up-to-date at the time of the review.

Remember that any 400 fps crossbow is already electric, so these crossbows are taking it to another level.

In this article, we’ll be reviewing the following crossbows:

• Fastest Crossbow on the market: TenPoint Nitro 505: 505 FPS
• Fastest Ravin Crossbow: R500: 500 FPS
• Scorpyd Nemesis: 480 FPS
• TenPoint Nitro XRT: 470 FPS
• Fastest Scorpyd Crossbow: Aculeus: 460 FPS
• Fastest Recurve Crossbow: Excalibur Bulldog: 440 FPS
• Most Accurate Fastest Crossbow: Ravin R29: 430 FPS
• Fastest Barnett Crossbow: Hypertac Pro 430: 430 FPS
• Fastest Crossbow for the Money/Youth: CenterPoint Wrath 430: 430 FPS

Before we review the fastest crossbows, let’s go over:

• the advantages of speed
• the disadvantages of speed
• the difference between power and speed
• one commonality between the crossbows

What are the advantages of a fast crossbow?

Longer range & better accuracy

The distinct advantage to a faster bow is that it creates a flatter trajectory. This improves aim over distance, not having to account for as much drop in the arc of the arrow.

What’s most impressive about performance improvements on the fastest crossbows over the last five years is how much it impacts accuracy over longer distance.

For example, the R500 and the TenPoint Nitro only drop about one inch over 40 yards compared to 20 yards, significantly more than less powerful crossbows.

Less chance of “jumping the string”

Not an uncommon phenomenon when hunting at longer ranges, the snap of the bow string upon firing is enough to startle game into a panic-driven movement reflex which, by the time the bolt arrives, may mean you hit the wrong part of the animal or miss it completely.

An extremely fast bow makes it less likely because, at 500+ FPS, a deer just won’t have enough time to react even at 60-80 yards.

What are the disadvantages of a fast crossbow?

Noise

It seems logical that if you wind a string up further and harder before letting it go, that this cause more vibrations, and therefore make more noise.

This is somewhat mitigated in the case of compound crossbows, as their pulley systems allow the energy to be stored in other parts instead of the string, thus reducing vibration.

On recurve bows – as mentioned later in the Excalibur Bulldog 440 review – vibration is amplified at high FPS, making purchasing a full suppression system worth considering.

• Read more: Best crossbows on the market
• Read more: Best crossbow for under $500
• Read more: Best Women’s Crossbows

Equipment wear

When you build so much power into a crossbow, you are asking the limbs to store more energy when cocked. This will result in the possibility of broken limbs on the one hand, as well as having to restring your crossbow more often.

Not only this, but high speeds wear down the arrows – in fact, you’ll probably have to use manufacturer-specific equipment.

Accessories made for lesser bows are often incompatible, so you may see yourself tied to the manufacturer.

External Influence

Extreme speeds will magnify all of the variables in every shot. You’ll find yourself battling the wind, gravity and operator shakiness in different ways.

You’ll also find that some arrows which shoot fine at lower speeds can’t handle the added pressure of flying at 450-500 FPS – it’s fast!

Difference between kinetic energy (KE) and speed (FPS)

It appears that most hunters thirst for speed in their crossbow. This does makes sense, as more speed means more distance, better accuracy, and less chance for the animal to escape.

On the other hand, it raises questions of ethics as higher speeds at a more considerable distance may make you miss your target (or the intended part of the animal).

What’s more, when you increase speed, you often do so by reducing the mass of the arrow and therefore reducing the energy.

The following analogy may help to understand; first of all, imagine getting hit by a grain of sand at 100mph. Frustrating indeed, but nothing to write home about. Then imagine getting hit by a brick at 20mph. With the latter, you risk death.

The point is, when targeting speed, we should also target increased KE, to take down bigger animals you’re proud to take home.

One Commonality between these crossbows

Almost all of the bows have one thing in common: reverse-draw technology. Reverse-draw technology essentially means that you are drawing towards the riser – the aluminium connecting limb to bow – instead of away from it.

A lot of the crossbow companies pay royalties to Kempf – the designer – to use his patent, as there seems no better way (for now) to get more output from a crossbow.

Improved crossbow balance

The most powerful crossbows generally require longer power strokes, to generate more force.

This usually would create a more substantial weight imbalance toward the front of the crossbow.

Reverse draw technology shifts the risers from the front of the crossbow to its center, to provide excellent balance and reduce front-heavy crossbows.

Exceptional accuracy

The centrally positioned risers mean that the crossbow doesn’t feel as heavy, and you can both hold your aim for longer, or quickly react to unpredictable situations.

Heavily reduced noise

The fact the string pulls through these risers effectively elongates the power stroke, while reducing the draw weight. Aside from generating higher speeds, it also results in significantly less vibration, meaning shots 3x quieter.

Better trigger experience

If you don’t have as much draw weight, the trigger isn’t going to be as strained, and this results in a better, all-round shooting experience.

The Fastest Crossbow Reviews

Ravin R500 Vs TenPoint Nitro 505

Firstly, take a moment to recognize that in 2019 we had just broken the 400 FPS barrier with the TenPoint Nitro XRT 432 (Cabela’s/Amazon). Within a year, the XRT was flying at 470 FPS. Now in 2024, we have two 500+FPS crossbows. An incredible performance leap in just four years.

Secondly – and read this carefully – these crossbows offer more penetration over 50 yards than a compound bow at point blank!

Do I buy the R500 or the Nitro 505?

If you’re looking for purely the fastest, the Nitro 505 is the fastest crossbow in the world, flying ten feet per second faster than the R500. However, the R500 is a more consistent crossbow when tested with field points, multiple broadheads, and from multiple positions. The R500 experienced ‘flyers’ less regularly and not nearly as wildly as the Nitro 505.

A few poor review comments on the TenPoint website support this, claiming poor grouping and quality control before shipping.

Safety

The R500 also feels like a safer bow thanks to its design – a shroud that covers the string.

Pricing

Pricing is always important. When both crossbows came out, you had to spend upwards of $3000. Check Amazon (R500 / Nitro 505) or Cabela’s (R500 / Nitro 505) for the latest prices.

Performance

Crossbow performance, as mentioned, is improving dramatically year on year. However, the R500 and the Nitro 505 are certainly not the most accurate crossbows we’ve tested. Supporting (yet necessary) accessories, such as bolts, fletchings, broadheads, etc., are not keeping pace. In the next couple of years, this may be where crossbow brands try to make gains, making these bows as reliable as they are powerful.

Fastest Crossbow in the World/Fastest TenPoint Crossbow: The Nitro 505

Weight: 7.9 lbs Length: 30.5 inches Width (cocked): 6.5 inches Width (uncocked): 12 inches Draw Weight: 300 lbs Power Stroke: 17 inches Speed: 515 FPS

When you first look at it, it follows the typical TenPoint design, with its ACUslide cocker, reverse-draw technology, and some slightly beefed-up limbs. The knocks on the bolts are also a little beefier. You can use these new knocks on old TenPoints, but you can’t use older versions on the new Nitro 505 because the bolts are designed to perform (or not break!) at extreme speeds.

The ACUslide cranking mechanism feels wonderfully safe. It takes all the weight out of the action and will not unwind on you halfway through. It also decocks so safely that your children can perform the entire process. In comparison, this was a better experience than the original Ravin until Ravin included the automatic e-cocking mechanism, which is another technological leap forwards. The Nitro’s finger shield protects you comfortably from the string.

Although not on par with the crossbow for quality, the package scope has been built by Hawke and is a marked improvement on the typical standard scopes they include.

The S1 trigger is a two-stage zero-creep trigger with a crisp break on the shot at four pounds in testing.

The Nitro 505 was also a little louder than some other bows, but it’s understandable with the power and vibration it generates.

Fastest Ravin Crossbow: R500

Weight: 8.4 lbs Length: 28 inches Width (cocked): 3.6 inches Width (uncocked): 7.6 inches Draw Weight: 300 lbs Power Stroke: 15 inches Speed: 505 FPS

Ravin has developed and introduced a Hex Coil system mounted to a reverse-draw system to reach eye-watering speeds and make their crossbow the best for portability and maneuverability. Uncocked, it’s 7.7 inches, and when cocked, it sits at a streamline of 3.6 inches. With a weight of 8.4 pounds and a length of 28 inches, you never feel hampered by trees and branches and will often find creative ways to aim from cover.

Cocking a crossbow has become painless and automatic. The crossbow has a VersaDrive cocking system with an integral screw drive that has allowed the Ravin team to include an electronic cocking option on a later release without the need for a cocking crank. If this is for you, ensure the version you buy includes it.

I like this design’s safety because the crank is housed in a shroud that protects your fingers and body from accidents around the string.

This crossbow is capable of deadly accuracy of well over 100 yards (although we don’t recommend this for hunting). I loved seeing it tested with the Garmin X1i Crossbow Scope to see what’s possible when the best crossbow and scope technology meets.

This scope isn’t included in a standard package, though! You’ll get a fully-assembled crossbow, six bolts with field points, a removable draw handle, a quiver, and an illuminated speed-compensating scope. I feel that some of these add-ons are a little cheaper than the crossbow itself, which is a shame for such an expensive purchase.

Understandably, the bolts are tailored to the extreme power of the R500; your warranty will be voided if you use any others.

Scorpyd Nemesis Review 480 FPS

Weight: 7 lbs Length: Unknown Width (cocked): 8.9 inches Draw Weight: Unknown Power Stroke: Unknown

Scorpyd, sadly, decided to recall the Nemesis due to serving wear issues.It’s a shame as the Nemesis flew at a whopping 480 FPS.

The 480 FPS rating was taken with a 400-grain arrow. There are reports of a massive 505 FPS achieved with the 375-grain bolt; which would be the first time a crossbow broke the 500-FPS barrier back in 2019. Was this a 500-FPS crossbow?

At 480 FPS, this crossbow generated a whopping 189.2 FPKE.

Scorpyd knows how to make fast crossbows, and seem to prioritise it over anything else.

That’s not to say though that the bow didn’t have balance, precision and versatility, thanks to its reverse-draw technology and patented SearLoc Trigger System.

Special Mentions

• Possibly the first ever 500+ FPS crossbow back in 2019

TenPoint Nitro XRT Review 470 FPS

Weight: 7.4 lbs Length: 30.7 inches Width (cocked): 7 inches Draw Weight: 225 lbs Power Stroke: 16.5 inches

TenPoint Nitro XRT is one of our favourite crossbows ever. It doesn’t just appear in our review of the fastest crossbows, but in our review of best crossbows, too.

It’s an all-round monster weapon, which hits a crazy 470 FPS, generating more than 185 FPKE.

It has a silent draw system, and an improved trigger with a string-latch design (although we still felt there was room for improvement). It is also comfortable to shoulder for those long days hunting.

It’s excellent weight-distribution with the reverse-draw technology make it a piece of cake to handle and aim. Perhaps the only thing stopping this crossbow being our favourite ever is the expensive price tag.

Fastest Scorpyd Crossbow: Aculeus Review 460 FPS

Weight: 7.5 lbs Length: 34.5 inches Width (cocked): 12.875 inches Draw Weight: 180 lbs Power Stroke: 18.5 inches

The Aculeus remains in the top three for speed, and will undoubtedly be available at a discount rate from the new Scorpyd Nemesis. This could work in its favor, given that these crossbow prices range into the thousands.

Fastest Recurve Crossbow: Excalibur Bulldog Review 440 FPS

Weight: 6.2s lbs Length: 35.75 inches Width (cocked): 23 inches Draw Weight: 300 lbs Power Stroke: 14.5 inches

What’s more, you can enjoy all the typical advantages of a recurve bow, in maintenance and crossbow weight.

We wonder, however, just how long those limbs are going to last on a cocked crossbow 23 inches wide and with a 14.5-inch power stroke.

Another issue is noise. Perhaps you want to try heavier bolts or purchase a full suppression system? This, of course, will take away a little from the 440 FPS – your call!

Can a deer get out of the way anyway if a bolt is travelling 440 FPS? Maybe not, but ethical hunting is important. If you hit the wrong part of the animal, it could end up hurt, or taking longer to die than is necessary.

Special Mentions

• The Fastest Recurve Crossbow

Most Accurate: Ravin R29 Review 430 FPS

Weight: 6.75 lbs Length: 29 inches Width (cocked): 5.75 inches Draw Weight: 240 lbs Power Stroke: 12.5 inches

That’s because they didn’t achieve 430 FPS by compromising other aspects needed for crossbow hunting.

The Ravin R29 sits in at an incredible 5.5 inches shorter than the R20, at 29 inches in length, with a more than reasonable 12.5-inch power stroke to deliver a punishing 164 lbs of kinetic energy.

It has incredible six-inch cocked full width and weighs only 6.75 lbs. This makes it our favourite fast gun for a long day hunting. You can shoulder this crossbow all day, and instantly react to surprises. Wow!

If you’re happy to compromise down to 400 FPS (I mean, come on, it’s not exactly slow…), check out the Ravin R26. This won our best crossbow; with sleeker dimensions and all-round perfection.

Special Mentions

• The Most Accurate Fastest Crossbow

Fastest Barnett Crossbow: Hypertac Pro 430

Weight: 8.9 lbs Length: 31 inches Width (cocked): 9.125 inches Width (uncocked): 13 inches Draw Weight: 230 lbs Power Stroke: 14.25 inches Speed: 430 FPS

With the scope, it showed impressive, tight grouping with field tips over 60-70 yards. Although not pre-installed, I also liked how straightforward it was to set up.

The bow is fairly noiseless thanks to the unique cam design on the inside of the limbs, which reduces vibration (which produces noise).

Its unique integrated string hook system functions well with the TriggerTech Zero Creep trigger, which fires at exactly three pounds. TriggerTech is Barnett’s proprietary technology that drops a free-floating roller between the sear and trigger, making the shot crisp and smooth. It’s better visualized than described:

The Hypertac 430 has a custom feel to it. The buttstock and cheekpiece have micro-adjustment options to set the perfect length of pull. The forend has an optional flip-down Verti-Grip to shoot the crossbow like an assault rifle.

The bow has a cocking crank integrated, which allows you to both cock and decock safely. If you release the crank before it’s cocked, it will not dangerously unload. On the negative side, the crank was unexpectedly loud, as was the removal of the safety.

The package bow comes fully assembled with three 22-inch Hyperflite arrows, a 1.5-5×32 illuminated speed-compensating scope, an integrated cocking crank, a side-mount quiver, and rail lube.

Also, a special mention for the proprietary (and therefore not the easiest to get hold of) Hyperflite bolts. Despite being a little expensive, they have a high-quality feel with a slimmer 204 diameter, 1000 straightness, stiff spine with 60 grains upfront to increase your FOC by 25%, increasing penetration by 30% over a standard crossbow bolt.

Fastest Crossbow for the Money/Youth: Centerpoint Wrath 430

Weight: 8.3 lbs Length: 28.26 inches Width (cocked): 9 inches Width (uncocked): 13 inches Draw Weight: 200 lbs Power Stroke: 15 inches Speed: 430 FPS

For this reason, I love to recommend the Wrath as the best crossbow for women or youth. Its short length (28,26 inches) and nine-inch Width, when cocked, are the best you will find on a bow two or three times less expensive than most on this list.

The Wrath is attractively priced for beginner hunters at less than $1000. You get a high-quality crossbow at an entry price.

Velocity Outdoor, the parent company for CenterPoint Archery, bought out Ravin in 2018, and we see the Wrath share technological similarities, such as the wheel system the best Ravin crossbows have.

It has a bullpup design, meaning the release lies behind the trigger. This design leads to a longer power stroke and increased speed despite not having a longer bow.

It also has a folding stirrup which is useful when using the rope cocker. There is a package version with a silent cocking crank, too. The cocking crank is useful as a bipod which is excellent for beginners or youth hunters, given the crossbow’s 9-pound weight.

Safety is also a primary consideration, which is wonderful news for beginner/young crossbow hunters. When you cock this crossbow, it automatically assumes the safe position. What’s more, it’s not possible to dry fire.

The package includes a fantastic 4×32 illuminated scope with ballistic aiming points inside, three 400-grain carbon arrows with field points, a quiver, and the earlier-mentioned rope cocker.

Conclusion – the fastest crossbow

The fastest crossbow is sure to be the Scorpyd Nemesis, which may be the first crossbow to break the 500-FPS barrier!

Until it comes out in a few weeks, the champion remains the 470 FPS TenPoint Nitro XRT, not only of note for its speed but for its all-round excellence as a weapon.

All of the above crossbows are excellent over distance, without compromising power.

If you prefer the traditional recurve bow, then look no further than the Excalibur Bulldog 440. We’d be interested in your feedback down below on its durability and how often it needs taking care of.

Rifle barrel life – How fast will your barrel reach retirement age?

In this age of increasing retirement age, it seems we’re expecting our rifle barrels to follow suit! In the world of high-performance rifle cartridges, barrel life maybe a short season. This month we look into rifle barrel life with 3 top gunsmiths on both sides of the Atlantic to get a shot at this highly energized topic amongst competitors, hunters and ELR shooters alike.

We spoke to three top gunsmiths in the game to find out how it effects competition shooters, ELR shooters and hunters, all after the ultimate performance for their intended game.

Left to right: Mik Maksimovic presenting a new rifle to a customer, Ryan Pierce out hunting and Harry Drescher from Solid Solution Designs

Rigby: Barrel life with traditional rifles like this Rigby in 375H&H is almost infinite. You will probably never wear out this traditional hunting rifle’s barrel.

Rifle barrel life is a topic I come across often when discussing some of the long-range cartridges both online and in gun shops. A few have also asked me about the barrel wear on the 300 Norma Mag cartridge so I thought I will put out a few thoughts about it as well as reeling in the thoughts of some top gun smiths in the process. What do they have to say?

For this we have reached out to Mik Maksimovic at Dolphin Gun company in the UK that has built more F-Class rifles than he cares to forget about.

We also spoke to Harry Drescher in the Netherlands from Solid Solution Designs that builds many large bore rifles for long range and ELR (exlrs.com) as well US based gunsmith Ryan Pierce, who has probably built more 300 Norma hunting rifles than anyone else and is a well-respected knowledge source on the respective 300Norma Facebook group. Among other things, Ryan builds 300 Normas that are meant to hunt with. This means that weight is usually on a premium and the overall balance of the gun important.

In this way we shall get 3 expert views on the important topic.

Why do barrels burn out?

Barrel wear or rather barrel burning comes from the immense heat that is generated whenever a cartridge is fired and you’re effectively channeling all that energy through a small hole hence coining the term for some cartridges as ‘over-bore’ cartridges. This creates immense heat and friction inside a small bore, pushing a bullet along the lands of the rifle barrel. The more powder you burn through a small hole, the more your barrels burns out. Shoot a few rounds fast, any you will feel that barrel steaming! All this in the name of Long Range Performance. Check out the video below of the high performance 338LM at 1 mile that we shot in Sicily.

Rifle barrel life in perspective

A 308win cartridge will burn circa 42grains of powder for a 30 caliber bullet. A 300 Norma is burning 90 grains of powder for the same 30 cal. bullet.

A 338 Lapua burns circa 90grains of powder under a larger .338 bullet. David Tubb’s 33XC is burning close to 125grain of powder, that’s 38% more than the 338Lapua for the same bullet diameter. Those big numbers you see on your chrono have an effect on your shoulder as well as your barrel life :_)

Does short barrel life hold you back from that shiny new cartridge you’ve been craving for?

Voere X3 rifle topped with leading Steiner tactical optics on offer

If you’re reading this, it probably concerns you. Rifle barrel life puts many prospective shooters off a high-performance cartridge. But should you really be concerned with barrel life? Here’s one way of seeing it. If burning barrels concerns you more than the performance you can achieve, than that level of performance is probably not for you or you don’t need it. High performance cartridges are created for specific tasks. If I’m using a 37XC cartridge to take out a high value target, the cost of my round is virtually negligible. If I take a 300Norma on my next Ibex hunt, the cost of the barrel wear and the lifetime of that barrel is virtually negligible too compared to the cost of my hunt. In the same way, if I’m a prospective F-class competitor and absolutely want the top cartridge I can manage to shoot that could help me achieve a marginal advantage to WIN, then 500 rounds of barrel life maybe just the ticket to achieve that. Are you still with me? If yes, keep reading.

300 Norma cartridge

Let’s take a hunting rifle chambered in 300Norma such as those built by Ryan Pierce. Let’s say we get 1000 rounds of tip top accuracy, 1/3 MOA accuracy shooting a 215gr at 3100ft/s without pushing it. We’re going to get impressive performance that will put meat in the freezer for years to come. It requires less than half the windage of my 308win seen below making my shots more forgiving in the same wind condition. If you take it out for practice once a month and fire 30 controlled rounds each time, that’s 360 rounds of practice in a year. That’s 3 years of practice with enough life in the barrel to bag tons of meat. Being a more wind forgiving round, it allows you make the same shot with half with difficulty. If you’re doing an Ibex hunt and absolutely must connect at any feasible distance you may be shooting, you can’t go wrong with a 300 Norma. You’re spending a few thousands on that trophy Ibex, barrel life in comparison is nothing, you guessed it! If you want to read more about the 300Norma, we prepared this in detail write up.

I’ve also noticed that the users after specific cartridges often are trying to achieve very specific goals and understand this principle better than others who just go to the range to plink and have fun burning a few rounds of ammo. Typically these rifle cartridge users build rifles around the bullet and cartridge they want to use or otherwise rechamber an existing rifle for a specific rifle which entails a new barrel and set of dies in most scenarios (as is the case with 338LM users shooting a 33XC) Typically these shooters are more involved with their goals and objectives and want to achieve specific goals.

How much barrel life are you happy with?

Above: A 308Win round is often thought of having some of the best barrel life available. 10k rounds is not unheard of in service rifles. Burning barrels is not an issue with such volume to bore ratio as found in the 308win. Get the March Scope 2.5-25×56 with upto 100MOA of elevation

View your barrel with a borescope as we did here https://www.instagram.com/p/CEGVveyJi9U/

If like us you enjoy Ultra long range, the 300 Norma Mag is a fantastic contender for 1-mile shooting as you can see here and even a few hundred yards further in the right conditions. Mine is doing 3250ft/s with a 215berger, it’s no slouch. My shooting buddy Robert is running 230s at 3050ft/s from a 29inch barrel.

Above: Pushing the limits during ladder testing of the 300Norma Mag before taking it for the King of 1 mile competition in France.

If you shoot 3 rounds and let it cool, you’re looking at 900-1200 rounds of barrel life maybe more.

“The other question I ask shooters that write to us at rifletalks.com is, do you want a 1-mile rifle or a rifle that can potentially shoot 1 mile?”

What’s the difference some ask me?

A 300win mag can shoot 1 mile as will your 30-06 and your 284Win as I saw at the king of 1 mile with the excellent shooting of Cap Beng from France. The guy is a phenomenal army shot but under gunned with a 284win at 1 mile. Had he been running a 300Norma, the outcome could have been very different.

A one mile rifle cartridge like the 300 Norma and similar cartridges have what it takes to connect at 1 mile. They are still supersonic at the distance, their windage correction will be relatively low say 6-8MOA of wind in 10mph full value which makes it easier to connect in changing winds.

If you want to shoot 1 mile in Europe, join this facebook group, Trapani one mile shoot with more info about the next one mile shooting weekend in Sicily, Italy coming March 2021.

Considerations around rifle barrel life

Below are some questions you may want to ask yourself when deciding about a new high performance cartridge.

1. String of shots – how many rounds are you expecting to shoot in a string?
2. What are your objectives with this cartridge?
3. Are you in for competition or a high-performance hunting cartridge?
4. What is the cost of your barrel wear?
5. What is the cost of ammo before you wear out the barrel?
6. How can you extend the lifetime of your barrel?
7. Are the achievements worthwhile for you?

How can I see what’s going on in the barrel?

I suggest you get yourself this borescope, for $129 it will give you a good idea what’s happening inside your barrel as you shoot your way through its lifetime as well as seeing what’s going on after you actually clean your barrel. Take the guess work out of the equation.

Above: a bartlein 308 barrel just before engaging the rifling forward of the lead, it’s brand new, only fired a proofing round through it.

Above, a 308barrel with about 200 rounds of 300 Norma Mag through it at 3250ft/s. Surprised?

How much does your rifle barrel wear cost?

Often, shooters take this to be the rifle barrel cost. If you’re in Europe you’re looking at £900-£1300 per barrel depending on configuration, length, fluting, finish, muzzle break etc.

When you consider a high-performance cartridge doing 1000 rounds of peak performance before it drops off, you’re looking at about £1 per shot in barrel wear plus whatever it costs you to assemble your ammo. I can see some of you raising their eyebrows. If you consider the cost of 1000 high performance rounds, you’re looking somewhere at £2-3 a pop if you handload and £6-8 if you shoot factory for the big magnums and ELR rounds. That’s £2-3000 in ammo consumed before replacing the barrel…. Still interested? Ok once we’re over the financials, let’s speak to the experts.

Chat with Mik Maksimovic

What does Mik Maksimovic have to say about rifle barrel life and burning barrels? (Dolphin Gun Company UK)

Producing some of the largest volume of F-Class rifles in Europe, Mik knows barrel life as the palm of his rifled hands 🙂

Rod: What kills rifle barrels fast when shooting strings?

Mik: Hey Rod, firstly, rifle barrels don’t wear out they BURN out. Heat from repeated firing burns barrels out slightly quicker

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your F-open gun to go?

Mik: I expect 2000 rounds from my 300 WSM and 1200 to 1500 from my 7-270 WSM

Rod: Do you see any big changes in F–open calibers?

Mik: F-Open is always evolving calibre wise, we have gone from 6.5-284 to 7mm to 30 Cal, but it’s restricted to 8mm and no one has gone down that route yet, no really good bullets in 8mm avail yet. (editor: similar challenges lie with the .408 round, not enough high performance bullets to choose from restricting the popularity of the cartridges)

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Mik: Using single based powders and cleaning correctly and regularly will give you the best barrel life, double based or high energy powders will burn a barrel out quicker

Rod: How far off is an FTR 308win barrel in terms of barrel wear from an open gun by today’s performance standards?

Mik: FTR 308Win barrel burns out the same as an F-open barrel, they use 20% or so less powder so they get longer barrel life, the barrel life is dependent on the calibre, and amount/type of powder burnt down the barrel.

You can email Mik mik@dolphinguncompany.co.uk if you need more info referring to this article

Ryan Pierce on High Performance hunting rifles

Next: Ryan Pierce from Piercision rifles, USA

Above: Ryan doing what he enjoys best with his own high performance hunting rifles

Rod: What kills a barrel fast when shooting strings?

Ryan: There’s quite a few variables that come into play for killing a barrel. How hot you get the barrel. Are you shooting at a pace similar to F-class? (editor: 1 round every 80 seconds or so) That will cut barrel life in half easily if you get the barrel really hot all the time. I keep my barrels cool whenever possible. During load development I’ll wait a couple minutes between shots and use a chamber cooler during that time. The type of powder used will have an effect on barrel life also. I generally don’t let the barrels on my big magnums get really dirty. Extreme spread and accuracy opens up when that happens, due to carbon build up etc.

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your high performing 300Norma/ 28Nosler hunting rifles to go?

Above: High performance rounds can help you half your windage hold offs.

Ryan: Round count is pretty subjective. Accuracy requirements play a big role in that as well, along with the above-mentioned variables.

For instance, if a guy shoots a bunch of rounds through his 28 Nosler all the time and gets the barrel smoking hot while doing so he could shoot a barrel out in 3-400 rounds pretty easily. However, if you keep it cool and clean you can get 600 or more rounds down it. That’s pushing a 195gr at 3100+ fps. The Norma and Norma improved I am telling guys to expect 1000 rounds or more of good accuracy if the barrel is taken care of. I have a barrel with 800 rounds through it that still hammers. A customer sent me some groups from his awhile back that were still 1/8 moa at that round count. It all comes down to how the barrel is treated.

Rod: Do you see any big changes in high performing hunting calibers or barrels used for them?

Ryan: I did hear about Bartlein’s new steel they’re offering. Sounds like a good deal. Time will tell on the new steel.

As far as new cartridges go there’s always going to be the “latest and greatest”. “I’ve obviously built quite a few 300 Norma and Norma improved. The fact that Lapua makes the brass is a huge bonus for it. I have 28 WARM firings on a single piece of brass and the primer pocket is still tight. Feels almost brand new. Its a great round. Extremely accurate and wide nodes. Capable of sending a 230 berger over 3000 fps in a 26″ barrel and still fit in magazines while throated for heavy bullets.”

I’m currently messing with reloader 50 in my heavy 30″ barrel setup and have a node at 3150 fps with a 230 berger and no pressure signs. Its offering much better case fill than N570 also. Another one of the popular cartridges I’ve chambering for guys is the 30-28 Nosler which is simply a 28 Nosler necked up to 30 cal. It has more case capacity than the 30 Nosler. My personal rifle in it has a 26″ proof carbon and is pushing a 230 Berger at a little over 2950 fps with h1000. It’s mind blowing accurate as well. The last two groups I shot at 580 yds had .6″ vertical. I also shot a cold bore 3 shot group over 3 days at 580 yds. One shot per day. Each day had 10 mph winds from different directions. The 3 shot group was 1.7″ tall x 6″ wide. I misjudged a fishtail wind and opened the group up to 6″. The first two days the group was under 2″ and perfectly centered. It also shoots the 215 Bergers lights out at a little under 3100 fps with h1000. I’m guessing optimal barrel life for it will be 1200-1500 rounds.

Above: Nowhere is the game more life and death than when hunting in the mountains. High performance cartridges may just be your ticket to success!

Rod: How far off are these cartridges in terms of barrel wear from traditional cartridges like 300win mag by today’s performance standards and materials?

Ryan: Both those 30 cal magnums mentioned are quite a bit faster than the 300 win mag. 300 win mag is gonna get 1500+ rounds of good barrel life if its taken care of.

Another somewhat new and great option is the 131 gr Blackjack bullet with its sky-high BC. Its been out over a year now. I’ve done a few for guys and they’ve hammered. I’m finishing up a 25 SST for myself in the next week or two and will be using that bullet with it on deer/antelope size game. Not sure how long the barrel will last but seeing as its predominantly a hunting rifle it will last a long time.

That’s the same with my bigger magnums. Remember 600-1000 rounds of barrel life in a hunting rifle is a really long time. That’s a lot of meat in the freezer, haha. If the new steel ends up offering 50% or more-barrel life in big magnums, then the 33XC might start picking up popularity in hunting rifles. My current setup has quite a bit of throat erosion at 190 rounds. My buddy said it looked like his 6XC at 2000 rounds LOL.

The funny thing is the 33XC barrel is consistently holding 2-3″ vertical at 1000 right now. How much longer it will do that I have no idea but I’m guessing the barrel will give up peak accuracy around 400 rounds or maybe a hair less. I’m going to try a different powder in my next barrel and see if that helps with throat erosion etc. Currently using N570 and pushing a 300 gr berger at 3225 fps in a 30″ proof carbon barrel. That combo definitely isn’t going to be easy on barrels!

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Ryan: My advice to new shooters on allowing the barrels to last as long as possible is to keep them cool. Don’t shoot 5-10 round strings. Let it cool between each shot to maximize barrel life.

Ryan is extremely knowledgeable and helpful, you may contact him here piercisionrifles@yahoo.com

Remember, keep load development short when testing hi performance rifle cartridges. Learn how to load develop in < 50 rounds here.

Dutch Rifle smith on ELR rounds

FOR SALE MARCH GENESIS 6-60×56

Read about the March Genesis ELR scope.

Next from the Netherlands, is Harry Drescher (Solid Solution Designs)

Rod: What kills a barrel fast during shooting strings?

Harry: In order to answer this question, we should think about how the barrel is built and how it is constructed, that is a free-floating match barrel in a MTU style profile. Let’s take stainless steel barrels, Single point cut rifling. The critical part of the barrel is the first 10 inches from the chamber into the barrel. This is exposed to a lot of pressure, heat, carbon and coppering. It is the area where the bullet spins for the first time in the lands and grooves of the barrel. If you shoot a fast string,and repeat this, the internal surface wears fast and the heat stress will cause deformities also known as heat cracks or snake skin. In time when these deformities grow, the accuracy can drop off.

Rod: How many rounds do you expect your high performing ELR rifles like 33XC and 375chey to go?

Harry: If the customer chooses the type of barrel and the type of rifling as mentioned in option 1 we can expect loss off accuracy after as much as 1200 rounds in high performance mode. This means monolthic bullets, with speeds over 960m/s

Rod: Do you see any big changes in high performing calibers or barrels used for them?

Harry: Recently we have seen a massive increase of sales of replacement barrels in 33xc, and 37xc as well as 416 Barret. The main brand chosen is in our view Bartlein, Krieger, and Proof research. Runner up is Benchmark and Rangemaster Precision Arms barrels being both top notch supplier of button rifled barrels.

Rod: What can help shooters in getting the most out of their barrels?

Harry: Choose a matching finished length and twist rate that really helps you achieve your ULR goals. Lower twist rates can really make the difference in the subsonic phase.

First accuracy, then speed we always say. Off course it’s a relative thing.

When your barrel is freshly cut, and you start using it, it will wear out. The first few hundred rounds will be the best that you get. A good tip might be to focus your cleaning more on carbon removal and less on copper removal. In this way you maintain the performance level even better.

And for projectiles, please choose a good High BC bullet like WTC, Berger solid, Cutting Edge, SSD Holland.

Rod: How far off are these ELR cartridges from introductory cartridges like 338Lapua when it comes to burning barrels?

Harry: The true ELR cartridges are reducing rifle barrel life fast. That is absolutely true. We have seen that already with the good old 300rum back in the days.

Where a 338lapua magnum can do easily 3000 rounds without loss off accuracy, Formula 1 cartridges like 375CT, 33xc, and the others mentioned will engage your barrel rapidly. I have even had a customer who did 600 rounds laser-style in his 416Barret, ending the rifling for a good 45 percent…….. I must admit that he used a brass solid over a copper solid, but still. Yeah!

You may reach Harry Drescher here: Info@solidsolutiondesigns.com

Over and Out,

Rod

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Vortex and Leupold scopes are some of the best optics on the market today. However, both have their strengths and weaknesses that can make either the better scope manufacturer for your needs.

For starters, both brands offer different types of scopes at varying price points. The most common price points are entry-level ($500), mid-range ($500-$1000), upper mid-range ($1000-1500) and high-end ($1500 up).

This review will compare the best Leupold vs. Vortex scopes at each price point. I will then discuss their best features and pit them against each other.

Finally, I will conclude with a verdict on which of the two optic brands, Vortex or Leupold, comes out on top with the best bang for your buck.

Vortex vs. Leupold: Comparison of Scope Series and Offerings

In this head-to-head battle of Leupold vs. Vortex scopes, I have split each rifle scope offering from the two brands into budget categories, from below $500 to upwards of $1500.

If you are eyeing any of these excellent scopes between Vortex or Leupold, take note of the Vortex Viper, Diamondback, Venom, Strike Eagle, PST Gen II, Razor HD, and Golden Eagle.

On the Leupold scope side, meanwhile, keep an eye out for the Leupold VX-Freedom, FX fixed power scopes, Mark 3HD, VX-3HD, VX-5HD, VX-6HD, Mark 6, and Mark 8 models.

Entry-Level Scopes (Up to $500)

On the lower end of the price spectrum, you have the budget/entry-level scopes. Comparing the variety of offerings between the two brands, there are more Vortex scopes, with 40 Vortex models offered (like the Diamondback line) at this range vs. the 27 models for Leupold.

In terms of the magnification range, both Leupold and Vortex offer similar scopes. Vortex offers slightly more with a 3-12x scope model, but other than that, they are highly similar at this price point.

In terms of optical clarity, Leupold scopes on the budget end are slightly better, with better eye relief. They also offer a custom dial system (CDS) to help with bullet drop compensation.

That said, Vortex Optics offers these entry-level scopes at lower prices, the highest being $370, while Leupold scopes tend to be just under $500.

Since these optics are meant for inexperienced shooters looking to buy an affordable first scope, I give the win to Vortex.

WINNER: Vortex

Mid-Range Scopes ($500-$1000)

Fighting in the mid-range battle of Leupold vs. Vortex, you have optics lines such as the Vortex Viper, Strike Eagle, and Venom. On the Leupold optics side, the available options include the Mark 3HD, VX-3HD, and VX-5HD.

Vortex offers 22 models as part of their mid-range series, while Leupold offers 32 models. Scopes from Leupold tend to have more magnification or zoom level range options, with more low to medium-zoom models focused on hunting.

On the other hand, Vortex scopes in this price range lean more towards the higher zoom levels. This means they are probably a better option for long-range shooting than Leupold, which is preferable for closer-range engagements.

Leupold scopes in this price range are usually up against the $1000 price point, while Vortex scopes are $150-$200 cheaper.

This bracket is a tie because of how similar both scope brands’ products are at this specific price point.

WINNER: Draw

Upper Mid-Range Scopes ($1000-$1500)

When comparing upper mid-range scopes between Leupold vs. Vortex, you can consider Leupold models like the Leupold VX-5HD and Leupold VX-6HD and Vortex models like the Vortex PST Gen II and Vortex Razor HD LHT.

It is at this point that the glass quality starts to improve significantly. While both offer excellent glass clarity, Leupold has slightly better glass. Their scopes use the same technology they use for their Leupold Binocular lines.

Any Leupold rifleman scope in this price range also has the CDS turrets as standard, which helps improve the longer-range accuracy of users. Vortex scopes do not have this option.

Both Vortex and Leupold scopes are a lot closer in terms of price point. Therefore, I will have to give the slight edge and prefer Leupold due to their slightly superior optical quality and better adjustment turrets.

WINNER: Leupold

High-End Scopes ($1500 and up)

When pitting Leupold vs. Vortex rifle scopes at the higher-end spectrum, consider the Vortex Golden Eagle, Vortex Razor HD, Leupold VX-5HD, Leupold VX-6HD, Leupold Mark 6, and Leupold Mark 8.

Leupold offers 38 scopes, while Vortex Optics only has 16 scopes at this range, meaning they have more options for better rifle scopes in this category. Leupold and Vortex scopes in this category focus on long-range hunting or shooting.

When it comes to high prices, there is a Leupold scope that costs upwards of $4500, which is more than any Vortex Optics scope. However, your primary focus is the performance rather than price value when choosing at a premium scope range.

Therefore, I prefer Leupold because of its slightly better scope glass clarity, and wider variety of options for those looking for a high-end, top-of-the-line scope.

WINNER: Leupold

Vortex vs. Leupold: Comparison of Scope Features

When picking between Leupold and Vortex optics, there are a few features that you must consider.

• Unique features and technologies
• Accuracy
• Reliability
• Reticle options and ballistics solutions
• Look and feel
• Budget and price range
• Warranty and customer support
• Brand history
• Ease of use

Each person will have different priorities in what they value in a scope, and what’s number 1 on this list will often come down to personal preference.

Picking the best Vortex scope and the best Leupold scope requires picking one that has the features you deem to be the most important in spades.

Features and Technologies

When comparing a Leupold and Vortex scope, one of the first differences you will notice is the set of features and technologies stuffed in. Both companies’ scopes have different design philosophies.

Leupold scopes have a focus on premium optical quality and easily adjustable turrets. On the other hand, Vortex scopes are focused on long-range shooting since they use many bullet drop-compensating reticles.

Both brands’ scopes have excellent light transmission and optical clarity, but Leupold scopes use superior construction technologies and scope components, especially in their cheaper optics.

This is unsurprising since they also have great-quality Leupold binoculars. While Vortex Optics also offers great technologies that are more focused on their reticles, it cannot compare to the Leupold options.

Accuracy

As mentioned, when comparing Leupold vs. Vortex optical performance, Leupold’s scopes are often superior. While it does not mean Vortex scopes are inaccurate, you get top-quality optics with Leupold.

Both optics manufacturers offer a multitude of construction features on the optic glass, like fog-proof multi-coated lenses to minimize light reflection. However, Leupold’s models usually have better light transmission.

This ultimately means that in low-light situations, a Leupold scope will give you a clearer view of the target, and you will hit it more consistently. However, even Vortex’s optics perform better than other optics in this regard.

Both brands also offer red dot sights with the same outstanding engineering as their long-range counterparts.

Red dot sights or even iron sights are more appropriate if you are only going to be shooting at close range, but fortunately, they can be mounted alongside your scopes for rapid transitions.

Reliability

Almost all scope models from the two brands are made of aircraft-grade aluminum and have fog-proof, waterproof, and multi-coated lenses. They are all also shock-resistant.

For example, the Leupold VX Freedom is constructed of aircraft-grade aluminum and is 100% waterproof, shockproof, and fog-proof for the best performance in any and all conditions.

Vortex scopes are also constructed well, so I must make this comparison segment a draw.

You will not have any difficulties or issues with the scopes from Leupold and Vortex randomly losing zero, whereas this is not always the case with less battle-tested brands.

Reticle Options and Ballistics Solutions

Leupold and Vortex scopes offer different reticle options. Leupold optics usually incorporate the duplex reticle that is popular for hunting. Therefore, it focuses on having a clear, unobstructed sight picture.

On the other hand, Vortex uses BDC (Bullet Drop Compensation) hash-marked reticles and usually offers two options when you buy – Dead-Hold BDC and V-Plex. This reticle is better for shooting at long distances.

Both brands also have first and second focal plane reticle options. They are also illuminated in the first or second focal plane, which is great for shooting in lower-light conditions.

While both scope manufacturers offer illuminated reticle options, Leupold has far more scope models with that option when compared to Vortex.

Look and Feel

When comparing the look and feel of Vortex and Leupold scopes, they are pretty comparable. Most scopes today use an overcoat over the aluminum to make them look uniformly matte and sleek.

Regarding the overall housing of the scopes, both Leupold and Vortex are large enough for performance purposes but not too bulky that they get in the way or appear too big on a rifle. They even offer compact optics if size and weight are major considerations.

The one thing that can distinguish top-tier scopes from the rest is the ease of using the adjustment turrets. Vortex Optics generally have great feeling (and easy to use) windage and elevation turrets.

However, Leupold’s Custom Dial System (CDS), which they use on all their models from low to high end, is just better. It clicks easily enough to adjust quickly but not too easily to be accidentally adjusted when you don’t mean to.

Budget and Price Range

This is one of the most important factors when choosing a scope because you want the best value for the hard-earned money that you make.

While Leupold’s scopes are not the most expensive for their features, Vortex is simply unmatched at giving you more than what you pay for. They consistently offer features and optical quality at lower price points.

This is especially true for their lower and mid-range scope options, where Vortex models are usually $150-$200 cheaper than their Leupold counterparts. That is where the budget savings can truly be felt.

Warranty and Customer Support

Leupold’s warranty offerings are some of the best in the business. They have a lifetime guarantee, regardless of whether you were the rifle optic’s first or tenth owner. They are also not particular about whether you kept the original receipt or not.

The same thing goes for Vortex’s warranty. They call it the “VIP Warranty,” where they will repair or replace any scope you buy from them. That is a lifetime guarantee.

They are also the same when it comes to exceptions to the rule. One mistake most people make is modifying their scopes or adding extra coatings, which will void the warranty.

However, both are perfect examples of what scope brands should follow when it comes to customer service.

After all, an unlimited lifetime warranty offering full repair or replacement with no questions asked – forever, will ensure a user base that lasts a lifetime.

Brand History

When it comes to the history behind both of these rifle scope manufacturers, Vortex Optics is a relatively new manufacturer. They have been producing and selling optics and other sporting goods since 2004.

Other than the rifle scopes they make, they also make wildlife-watching binoculars. Their claims to fame are their excellent value for money and VIP warranty since day one.

However, Vortex cannot compare to Leupold when comparing brand history. The company has been operating for more than a century and has been making rifle scopes since after World War II.

Their rich history also includes providing American law enforcement equipment and accompanying the military in operations across the globe.

Two of their scope series are also noted to be the most popular in America by the NRA.

Vortex vs. Leupold: Which Is Better?

Leupold scopes are the winner for most people, especially those looking for an all-around high-quality scope for hunting or daily use. It also has a rich history, being THE choice for uniformed personnel and civilians alike.

However, Vortex provides much better value for money with their lower prices, which is the most critical factor in choosing a rifle scope for many people.

They also have more reticle options better suited to long-range shooting than Leupold.

The rifle scope you choose will heavily depend on personal preference and your use case. For bang for your buck, Vortex is the best. For the best optical glass possible, choose Leupold.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

After learning more about Leupold and Vortex optics, you might have some other questions about the two scope brands. Here are answers to the most commonly asked questions on this match-up.

What Are the Main Differences Between Leupold and Vortex?

The main differences between Vortex and Leupold models are the price and quality of the optical glass. Generally, Leupold scopes use higher-quality glass than Vortex.

However, Vortex offers optics at a lower cost, meaning they give users a better bang for their buck. It is the preferred option if you need something that gets the job done reliably for less money.

On the other hand, if you are looking for the best scope for the price in terms of quality, Leupold should be your top pick.

Is the Vortex Diamondback Worth It?

The Vortex Diamondback is one of the best starter hunting rifle scope options for those on a budget. This is because of the outstanding reliability, fog-proof design, good zoom level options, and value for money.

You are getting a scope that is not too bulky or heavy, utilizes good-quality glass, and, best of all, is cheaper than other options that offer similar features or zoom levels.

Is the Leupold Mark 5 Worth It?

The Leupold Mark 5HD line offers some of the best quality optical glass you can find at its price point. It offers features like HD lens coatings, a wide array of zoom lenses, and great adjustment turrets.

It is also much lighter than other optics that offer the same zoom lenses, up to 20 ounces lighter than some models. This is particularly useful if you walk a lot with your rifle and do not want to feel the weight.

While it is not the cheapest scope, coming in at just below the $3000 price point, it is worth it. It can go from 5x to 25x zoom with just a few clicks and is clear enough to see the farthest targets without you needing to squint.

Does the US Military Use Leupold Scopes?

The previously mentioned Leupold Mark 5HD is the rifle scope chosen by the US Military as the Army Precision Sniper Rifle Scope. This means it will be one of the main scope options used by precision shooters across all the branches.

This is because of its perfect variety of zoom levels, plus the reliability and optic performance that this particular Leupold model showcases. It is also lighter than other options from optics manufacturers in the same category.

Furthermore, the addition of fog and waterproofing ensures that military snipers will not have issues shooting in less-than-ideal conditions.

Are Vortex Scopes Used by the Military?

Over 250,000 Vortex optic models have been selected by the US Military as their optic of choice on their Next-Generation Squad Weapon System. While they are not in use yet, they will be soon.

The features that this model is required to have include a variable magnification optic, backup etched reticle, atmospheric sensor suite, laser rangefinder, compass, and a ballistic calculator.

These are premium features that may make their way towards the consumer market, too.

Final Thoughts on Vortex vs. Leupold Rifle Scopes

The choice between Leupold or Vortex optic models highly depends on what you value and your personal preferences. Both Vortex and Leupold are great brands that offer high-quality tactical products.

If you value having the best quality optical glass, are more focused on hunting, and are willing to spend a bit more, choose Leupold Optics. They are the best fit for your needs.

On the other hand, if you want the best value for money, are on a tighter budget, or need more options for BDC reticles, then getting Vortex Optics is probably your best bet.

This lines up with what I recommend at each budget price point. If you are getting a budget to mid-range optic, then get Vortex. If you are getting a more expensive model, go for Leupold.

Rubber boots are essential for those rainy days when you don’t want your feet to get wet. But if they start to leak or crack, it can be frustrating. That’s why we’ve put together this guide on how to fix them fast.

You don’t have to go through the hassle of buying a new pair of rubber boots just because they start to leak or crack. With our easy tips, you can have them fixed up in no time. So don’t wait – Repair Your Rubber Boots In No Time!

Don’t let a little crack or leak in your rubber boots turn into a big problem. Here are five ways to repair them quickly and easily in our compilation.

Read on here for more information on repairing cracks and leaks in rubber boots!

Can You Repair Rubber Boots?

Yes, it is possible to repair rubber boots. However, the extent of the repair will depend on the type of damage and the available materials. For minor damages, such as small holes or cracks, a patch can be used to fix the problem. More extensive damage, such as large holes or tears, may require the use of a patch and a sealant. If the damage is too severe, the boot may need to be replaced.

5 Ways to Repair Cracks and Leaks in Rubber Boots

If your rubber boots have cracks or leaks, there are several ways you can repair them. You can buy a rubber boot patch kit, use vulcanizing cement, use a sealant, use a hot glue gun, or use boot covers. Let’s see how these tips can be used to repair rubber boots that leak and crack.

1. Rubber boot patch kit

A rubber boot patch kit comes with a piece of rubber and instructions on how to apply it to the boot.

The process included in applying the patch may vary, but the kit will come with everything you need to complete the repair.

You can follow these steps:

1. Clean the area around the hole or leak with a damp cloth.
2. Cut the patch to size, if necessary.
3. Apply the adhesive to the back of the patch.
4. Peel off the backing and apply the patch to the boot.
5. Press down on the patch to adhere it to the boot.
6. Wear the boots after the adhesive has dried completely.

With a few minutes and effort, rubber boots can be repaired easily!

2. Use vulcanizing cement

Rubber boots are repaired with vulcanizing cement when they leak or crack. It works by bonding the two pieces of rubber together, which creates a strong seal that prevents further leaking.

Vulcanizing cement is available at most hardware stores and can be applied easily with a brush or roller. This type of repair is often used on rubber boots that are exposed to harsh weather conditions or frequent wear and tear. It results in a strong and durable repair that will last for many years.

3. Use sealant works

A sealant is a material that is used to fill in gaps or cracks, sealing them off from the rest of the surface. When applied to rubber boots, it creates a barrier that prevents water and other liquids from seeping through the cracks and leaks. This can be an effective way to repair and extend the life of your rubber boots.

The application process includes the following steps:

1. Start by cleaning the surface of the boot where the sealant will be applied. Use a damp cloth to remove any dirt, debris, or other foreign objects that could prevent the sealant from bonding properly.
2. Apply the sealant to the cracks and leaks, using a putty knife or other similar tool.
3. Smooth out the sealant so that it is level with the rest of the boot surface. Boots should be worn after the sealant has completely dried.

Sealants are typically made from silicone, latex, or other synthetic materials. They can be purchased at most hardware or home improvement stores.

When selecting a sealant, be sure to choose one that is specifically designed for use on rubber. Follow the instructions on the packaging to ensure proper application and drying time.

4. Use a hot glue gun

Rubber boots can be repaired with a hot glue gun if they have cracks or leaks. It works by heating the glue so that it can be easily applied to the affected area.

The hot glue will then cool down and harden, creating a seal that will prevent further water from leaking through.

To use a hot glue gun, first, make sure that the area to be repaired is clean and dry. Then apply a layer of glue around the perimeter of the hole or crack.

Be sure to smooth out any air bubbles so that the seal is as watertight as possible. Allow the glue to dry for several hours before wearing the boots again.

Hot glue guns are a quick and easy way to repair small cracks and leaks in rubber boots. However, they are not intended for use on larger holes or tears. If the damage to your boots is too severe, you will need to replace them entirely.

Mote read: Glue for rubber boots

5. Use boot covers

The Use of a boot cover works to repair the Cracks and leaks in rubber boots by providing a temporary seal that will allow the user to continue using the product while it is being repaired.

This method is often used when there is a small crack or leak that needs to be fixed, and it can be done quickly and easily without having to replace the entire boot.

Almost any hardware store or home improvement store sells boot covers, and they are typically made from a flexible material that can be easily applied to the affected area.

Once the cover is in place, it will need to be held down with a piece of tape or a similar product so that it does not come off while the boot is being repaired.

Once the repair is complete, the boot cover can be removed and the boot will be as good as new. In some cases, the use of a boot cover can also help to prevent further damage to the boot, which can save the user money in the long run.

Best way to patch rubber boots

There are many ways to patch a hole in rubber boots, but the best way depends on the size and location of the hole.

For small holes, use a strong adhesive like epoxy or super glue. For bigger holes, patch the hole from the inside with a piece of rubber or PVC pipe. If the hole is near the edge of the boot, you may also need to reinforce the edge with a strip of rubber or PVC.

Once you’ve patched the hole, be sure to test the repair by walking in a puddle or spraying the boots with water. If the repair seems secure, your boots should be good as new!

Conclusion

In conclusion, rubber boots are a great way to keep your feet dry and protected from the elements. However, they can sometimes leak or peel, and they may also crack if they’re not properly cared for. If you have a pair of rubber boots that are in need of repair, be sure to follow the steps outlined in this article so that you can get them back in working order. And when shopping for rubber boots, be sure to keep the above information in mind so that you can choose a pair that will last you for many years to come.

Thanks for reading!

FAQs

How to fix peeling rubber boots?

If your rubber boots are peeling, there are a few things you can do to try and fix the problem. First, make sure that the boots are clean and dry. If they are dirty or wet, they will be more likely to peel. Next, try using a mild soap or detergent to clean the boots. If this does not work, you can try using a rubber boot conditioner. Finally, if none of these things work, you may need to replace your boots.

How to find a leak in rubber boots?

There are a few ways that you can tell if your rubber boots leak. One way is to simply fill the boots with water and then check for any drips or leaks. Another way is to put the boots on and then step into a puddle or pool of water. If you see any water coming in through the boot, then you know that you leak. Finally, you can also check the inside of the boots for any water or moisture. If you see any signs of water, then you most likely leak into your boots.

How do keep rubber boots from cracking?

There are a few things you can do to help extend the life of your rubber boots and prevent them from cracking.

One is to make sure that you store them in a cool, dry place when they’re not being worn. If they’re exposed to too much heat or sunlight, the rubber will break down more quickly.

Another is to avoid wearing them in rough conditions whenever possible. If you know you’re going to be walking through mud or puddles, try to put on a different pair of shoes first and save the rubber boots for when you need them.

And finally, you can treat the surface of the boots with a silicone-based protectant. This will help create a barrier against water and dirt, and it will also make the boots easier to clean. Simply apply the protectant with a cloth or brush and then buff it dry.

by Pete Cooper Jr.

The waters within interior salt and brackish marshes across virtually the entire Gulf coast hold red drum throughout most of the year. However, these fish are not pushovers. That is entirely a result of their environment and the main reason why so many anglers have trouble successfully fishing here. If you are one of those but would like to solve the riddle and experience the exciting action found in these areas, try adhering to the following tips.

Interior marshes are typically comprised of broad stands of various emergent grasses pocked with shallow ponds – with or without submerged grasses – and laced with small, shallow creeks and cuts. As the tide rises, it floods these ponds and shoreline grasses along the cuts or creeks. The rising water makes these sites accessible to various prey species. Those creatures now move into these nutrient-rich areas, and the redfish follow.

In interior areas it is almost always best to follow the fish into the shallowest water that you can operate your boat. As the tide continues to rise, continue to look for shallow spots. Water over 1 1/2 feet deep quickly becomes a detriment, as it masks signs of a fish’s presence.

Periods of slack tide – either on the low end or the high end – are usually best spent taking a nap or returning to the marina for a bite. Just be sure you are back on the water when the tide begins to move again. When it starts to fall, target the creeks and cuts.

These can be worked effectively by either moving along their shorelines where the falling water is pulling bait from the recently flooded grass or by anchoring at the point where a cut drains a pond. There, the current created by the water falling through the cut pulls prey from the pond. Redfish are well attracted to these feeding stations.

As a rule, redfish in open water aren’t all that bright, and some of them can act like they want to be caught. However, if you assume the fish you encounter in the marshes are so afflicted, you won’t catch many of them.

You must move about very stealthily while fishing shallow ponds and creeks. Paddling is best if your boat allows it. Push-poling ranks a close second and provides better visibility, but it’s rather difficult to make a quick, accurate cast with a 16-foot push-pole in one hand. Unless there’s a buddy aboard who is willing to alternate rod and push-pole with you, sculling while sitting on the boat’s bow is the better option if at all possible.

If you are averse to paddling, the water’s depth is sufficient and there isn’t a profusion of submerged grass in the area, a bow-mounted trolling motor can be used effectively. But it should be set on the lowest speed that produces headway.

Whatever method of propulsion you decide on, go slowly. While that allows you to search for fish more effectively, the main reason is to prevent the boat from creating large pulses through the water that can be detected by the fish, alerting them that something is not quite right. Reds often simply swim out of the way of a boat that is just creeping along, not in the least bit alarmed. Others caught unaware may bolt, but after they dash off a ways they occasionally seem to forget what all the fuss was about. A cast at fish that respond to the boat’s presence in these manners can result in strikes you would have not received had your boat been pushing a large wave through the water.

One of the most exciting things about fishing the waters within interior marshes is that much of it is done by sight. As you move stealthily along, always look and listen for signs of fish.

A large wake moving slowly along the edge of a small pond or creek channel is definitely worth a speculative cast. A much better bet is the tip of a tail intermittently puncturing the water’s surface beside a patch of submerged grass. An entire tail waving merrily at you anywhere you might encounter one is almost a sure thing.

Then there are “crawlers” – fish which move with some purpose in water so thin that their dorsal fins and part of their backs are exposed. These fish might also appear to be almost a sure thing, but they demand a very precise cast. Unlike a “tailer,” which is a stationary target, a crawler must be led just far enough to prevent the lure’s impact from spooking the fish, yet close enough for the fish to detect it. Knowing just how much to lead the fish is determined in great part by experience and blind dumb luck! Do not expect consistent results with crawlers – but then, that’s what makes fishing for them such a hoot.

In clear water, redfish can be detected relatively easily beneath the surface. For best results, work the up-wind shorelines where emergent vegetation creates a calm surface. Move along in the direction allowing the best sub-surface visibility. Wear amber or yellow polarized sunglasses and a cap that is dark green on the underside of the bill. If you are moving along slowly and stealthily, you can spot these fish quite close to the boat, so be prepared for a short, quick cast with minimal movement.

On first inspection, a pond, creek or cut may seem to be relatively featureless. This is not the case. Irregularities abound and are often quite attractive to bait species seeking nourishment or shelter. In such places, redfish are likely to be nearby.

Small grass points in a creek’s shoreline may extend into water that is slightly deeper than that found along the adjacent bank. Here any current may be slightly stronger, causing bait to be carried along by the flow. Such a feature makes a good ambush point and should be prospected with a cast or two wherever found.

Other good spots are at intersections, especially where one cut or creek is much different from the other. It can be larger, smaller or shallower, just as long as the two channels differ. These sites are usually best on a falling tide, but they can be productive during the low end of a rising tide. Particularly target any shoreline shallows located there.

During low tide you may notice some shells on the bank of a creek. These may extend well out into the waterway, providing protection for prey species. Never pass up an accumulation of shoreline shells without making a cast or two across the water next to them.

Finally, fish may be found anywhere in ponds where the bottom is carpeted with thinly growing submerged grasses. But places where the grass grows in thick patches – often matting on the surface – tend to limit the area used by the fish. Take plenty of time looking around and casting a pond that has clumps of matted grass scattered throughout it.

Some of the hottest lures going these days for reds in interior marshes are spoon flies. They are not really flies but were created for use with fly rods. These lures do look and act like a single-hook spoon. They are very light and sink quite slowly, usually have a mono weed guard. The lures wobble and flash about, emitting audible as well as visible imitations of a baitfish. Though small at 1 1/4 inches, the redfish absolutely love them!

Of course, spin-fishermen can employ very similar lures. In this setting, especially with clear water, a small and loud 1/5-ounce, single-hook spoon can be a good choice. In areas where submerged grass presents a problem, try a 1/8-ounce buzzbait dressed with a 2 1/2-inch soft-plastic grub. In the slightly deeper cuts and creeks, junior-sized surface lures can produce some very entertaining strikes.

But day in and day out, the most reliable lure is a spinnerbait created from a gold, No. 3 1/2 safety-pin spinner, a 1/8-ounce jighead, and a 2 1/2-inch grub. With that you can make a relatively delicate presentation to a crawler, buzz it past a tailer at the edge of a thick patch of grass, or prospect the intersections, points and accumulations of shells along a creek’s shoreline.

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Every hunter dreams of an instant kill, where their prey simply hits the ground dead. It’s the perfect shot, the best intention, and the only way to make sure the animal doesn’t suffer. Here, we’ll take a look at your placement when you’re trying to take down the gobbler you’ve got your eye on.

Broadside

If the turkey approaches you broadside, the best place to put your shot is right where the wing joints to the body. You’ll slice through heart and lungs and there is no more instant kill than that. Plus, should you miss your mark by an inch or two on any side of this shot, you’ll still hit enough necessary organs to take the bird down in one go (almost certainly).

We do have to note that broadside shots are usually the most preferred to take with both firearms and archery since they allow for a much larger target and an easier spot. Plus, broadside shots allow you to see spurs on gobblers and assure you that the bird you’re shooting is not a hen.

Above the Beard

Maybe your gobbler is just demanding that you shoot it from the front. It wants to look you in the eye when you put it down and you know what? You’re game for that.

Shoot just above the bird’s beard to get that turkey’s pretty fan on your wall. Shooting under will likely damage the breast meat and may cause a gut shot, which could end up ruining the entire bird. If you take the turkey with a shot above the beard but below the neck, you’ll go straight through the heart and lungs once again and put it down in a blink.

Where the Fan Meets

Or maybe you’re experiencing the opposite problem. The turkey won’t turn around and is being, well, a turkey. In this case, we recommend calling vigorously to try to get the gobbler’s attention. A broadside or front shot is so much easier than trying to knock off the bird’s backside.

However, we take whatever shots we can, right? It’s more important to bag your bird than it is to let it get away because it’s only showing its back to you.

Shoot at the base of the fan, just below the actual tail of the bird but above the cloaca. Unfortunately, you’ll likely see some meat loss with this shot but that doesn’t matter quite as much if you’re just after the fan and you’re feeding your dogs the rest. Still, even if you’re just after the fan, this probably isn’t the best shot in the world, anyway.

Try to get the bird to turn, but take what you can if it won’t.

From Behind

Maybe the turkey doesn’t even care enough to flip its fan at you. That, or you’re after a bearded hen that you’ve had your eye on and she couldn’t care less. Go ahead and shoot in the same position, but across the back rather than from underneath the fan. You’re looking to aim for the tail joint at the body and sort of up along the spine rather than down into the body cavity.

Again, ideally, you get the turkey to turn your way and try to get that broadside or front shot. If you can’t, the joint of the tail and the body is a simple place to put a shot.

The Head Debate

It is preferred to kill a turkey by placing a body shot across the heart or lungs to ruin as little meat as possible and to kill the bird instantly. After all, we want their meat and the trophies, and we want the turkey to die as fast as possible.

So why not try for a headshot and be done with it?

Turkeys have incredibly tiny brains. Anyone who’s watched them for a while will probably chuckle at that, but we aren’t making fun of their intelligence. Instead, this is a simple fact. The heart and lungs of a turkey are far larger than the brain and better targets. Yes, your rifle is probably going to completely behead that turkey if you manage to get a really solid shot at it.

The target is tiny, the brain is minuscule, and you don’t want to take a bird’s beak off and leave it to starve to death by a misfire. A body shot will kill almost any bird, even if you don’t clip the heart and lungs. The damage done to the internal system of the turkey is simply too much for the body to bear. That isn’t so if you miss their very small head (and smaller brain).

Bottom Line

We strongly recommend either a broadside or a front-facing shot. These are the easiest to take and assure that the bird is probably dead before it hits the ground.

Looking for some more tips? Check out our other articles: 15 Expert Tips for Spring Turkey Hunting and How to Clean a Wild Turkey.

Deer hunting is perhaps one of the most American hunting activities, and with the increasing popularity of suppressors, it’s only natural that people will ask if they can hunt deer with suppressors. The answer is by and large a resounding yes! 40 of 50 US states allow hunting deer (and other game) with suppressors, meaning that most anyone who wants to can with a suppressor.

Can You Hunt Deer with a Suppressor?

You can totally hunt deer with a suppressor, and there are a lot of good reasons to! We’ll show you the states that allow hunting with suppressors in a minute, but the good news is that it is quite likely that you can hunt with a suppressor in your state.

If you have a hunting rifle with a suppressor or want to put a suppressor on your hunting rifle, you’ll find a lot of benefits, and precious few, if any, drawbacks. Well, other than the bother of getting an NFA registered device, but that’s not such a big deal in the grand scheme of things.

Anyway, since most places are states that allow hunting with a suppressor, let’s look at the advantages that come with suppressed hunting.

Buy a Rifle Suppressor

Benefits of Hunting Suppressed

From the very beginning in 1909, suppressors have been actively marketed to hunters and for good reason – they make hunting safer and quieter, eliminate the need for bulky hearing protection, and improve accuracy when shooting.

Here are just a few of the reasons why suppressed hunting is better hunting:

• Make the outdoors quiet again. The thundering roar of a gunshot spooks game, trains animals to expect hunters and disturbs private landowners and other people sharing the same hunting space. Suppressors, when paired with the right ammo, reduce the sound of a gunshot to hearing safe levels, and “dull the edge” of the sound of a gunshot.
• Hunting deer with a suppressor is safer. While in recent years electronic ear muffs that allow you to hear ambient noise while blocking the sound of gunfire have hit the market, the simple fact is most hunters still choose between no ear protection or wearing something that makes it hard to hear what is going on around them.
• Using a suppressor on your hunting rifle allows you to hear everything that is going on around you, and not damage your hearing when taking a shot.
• Accuracy is proven to be improved when shooting with a suppressor. This benefit has also been touted since the early 20th century. This is because the physics of a silencer reduce felt recoil and muzzle climb. With both of these factors greatly reduced, shooters find their rifles easier to shoot.

So it isn’t that silencers make the gun more accurate per se, but they make it easier for YOU to shoot your gun more accurately.

There are a lot of other little things that make hunting deer with a suppressor nice, too. Your shots are less likely to spook other game in case you miss, you are fully aware of your surroundings, you have less gear to carry on your person, you never have to worry about quickly getting hearing protection in before taking a shot, and of course, reducing noise pollution is simply the responsible, polite thing to do.

Do Suppressors Impact Accuracy?

We already touched on this a bit, but we can look a little deeper into how suppressors impact accuracy.

It is a law of physics that for every action, there is an equal and opposite reaction. Gun owners understand this as recoil. Recoil is moderated through various means, like through heavy guns or dense stocks that help absorb and distribute some of the energetic forces from firing a round. Felt recoil can also be reduced with various shock absorbing materials like rubber buffer pads or even various spring loaded or similar shock absorbers built into the stock.

Semi automatic rifles have some natural recoil reduction built into their operation, as the recoil springs that cycle the action absorb huge amounts of energy that would normally be felt by your shoulder.

Muzzle brakes (while rarely seen on manually operated hunting rifles) are another proven way to reduce felt recoil, as they redirect muzzle gas in such a way as to weaken the recoil impulse.

All these common mechanical ways to reduce or redistribute recoil energy add up to easier shooting. And we all know an easier shooting gun can be more accurately shot. Consider the difference between shooting a .22 rimfire and a punishing .300 Winchester Magnum. While skilled shooters can do well with either gun, I think we can all agree the .22 is a lot easier to shoot accurately.

Suppressors take the recoil reducing ability of a muzzle brake and turn that power up to 11. Because suppressors contain muzzle gas for so long in order to reduce sound, they also double as an insanely effective muzzle brake. Which means less felt recoil, and, you guessed it… the ability to shoot your rifle easier.

Buy a BANISH 30 > >

States that Allow Suppressors for Hunting

There are presently 42 states that allow ownership of suppressors, and 40 of them permit hunting with suppressors. As you can see, that includes some of the best deer hunting country in the nation. Sadly, some highly populated states like California and New York don’t allow hunting with suppressors, but most Americans are in luck!

If your state isn’t on this list, consider connecting with local gun rights advocacy groups and pressing your elected officials to embrace firearms and hunting safety by allowing the use of suppressors when hunting.

Getting Your Hunting Rifle Barrel Threaded

Many common hunting rifles do not have barrels threaded for a suppressor. There are many reasons for this, most of which boil down to cost. Suppressors are an optional accessory that often cost more than the gun they are being mounted on. This means there is little reason to thread every barrel that comes out of a factory.

And for whatever reason, hunters rarely embrace muzzle devices like flash hiders or muzzle brakes on their guns, so most hunting rifles show up without threaded barrels. The exception to this is many semiautomatic sporting rifles which usually have threaded muzzles for common muzzle brakes or flash hiders. These can be quickly fitted with suppressors. But odds are good your favorite manually operated or older semiautomatic rifle isn’t suppressor-ready.

When you consider the best-suppressed hunting rifle is often the one you own and are comfortable with, barrel threading becomes very important. You could trust your rifle to a gunsmith using hand tools or inexpensive machine tools and hope that they’ll do the job right, or you could have your barrel threaded on a state of the art CNC machine that cuts more perfect threads than are possible by any other means.

That’s why we founded Threading Central and offer an easy mail-in barrel threading program! Our state of the art machines will do a more perfect job than even most factories are capable of, and the best part is that it’s incredibly easy and affordable!

Get Your Barrel Threaded

The Best Suppressors for Hunting

The best-suppressed hunting rifle needs the best suppressor for hunting. Of course, we should consider what kind of rifle we are putting a suppressor on. As a general rule, any well-made rifle is suitable to be used as a suppressor host. The “best” suppressed hunting rifle really does become academic, because there is no one single best hunting rifle. So we’ll assume you have a good rifle and want to put one of the best suppressors for hunting on it.

We are a tad bit biased towards our famous BANISH Suppressor line, and for good reason. The all-titanium, user-serviceable and multi-caliber BANISH suppressor is truly the one that fits any gun. We designed the entire line to work with the most popular hunting and sporting rifle and handgun cartridges while offering true hearing safe performance across a range of dozens of different cartridges. No other suppressor line offers the same kind of value, performance, and functionality as the BANISH suppressor.

However, we know that people like consumer choice, and as the nation’s largest silencer dealer, we are happy to sell you whatever silencer you want.

We are also especially fond of the Advanced Armaments 762-SD. Created specifically to address the problems with suppressing .308 Winchester and 7.62 NATO ammo, it also works extremely well with .300 Blackout. And of course, there are umpteen million deer rifles in those wildly popular calibers. And at under $700, it is a real bargain.

If price is your absolute bottom line and you have a .30 caliber or smaller hunting rifle, it is hard to beat the Coastal Gun .30 Caliber LRT which will get you into the suppressed hunting rifle game for well under $600, and will work on many different .30 caliber and smaller rifles.

Get Equipped Before You Hunt

Are you ready to own a hunting rifle suppressor? That’s exactly what Silencer Central is here for.

We’ve long recognized there are distinct markets for suppressors including tactical/military/law enforcement, and the hunter. So, if you to hunt deer with a suppressor, we know a thing or three about the needs of hunters and sport shooters just like you, because you are our entire reason for existence. Our dedicated expert staff can help you select the perfect suppressor for your hunting rifle that meets your unique combination of budget, performance and end-use.

In addition, Silencer Central has offices in all 42 silencer legal states, so we know what it takes for your state. Plus, we are the only silencer dealer who can perform the entire transaction from purchase to submitting ATF paperwork, to delivering your suppressor entirely by mail!

That’s right, for the first time since the 1934, mail order silencers are again possible, and only through Silencer Central. Learn more about the process here, and see how much easier it can make things for you. We also offer a FREE NFA gun trust to all our customers that not only makes registering your suppressor easy but serves as a trust for all your NFA devices.

No matter if you are an experienced silencer owner or are just getting your first hunting rifle suppressor, we are here for you. Drop us a line or send us an email and let’s get you started with selecting the best suppressor for deer hunting (or anything else you can use a suppressor for) right now.

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One of the most important parts of a rifle is something that is often overlooked – the stock. Rifle stocks are one step you can take to customize your firearm to exactly fit the shooter and the uses of the gun. Let’s take a look at some different parts and types of rifle stocks. Read on!

What is a Rifle Stock?

A Rifle Stock is also known as a shoulder stock, buttstock or just the “butt” of the firearm. The receiver and firing mechanism as well as the barrel are attached to the stock which is held against the shooter’s shoulder when fired. The stock of the rifle allows you to firmly support and aim your gun.

Rifle Stock Anatomy

Rifle Stock Anatomy. Photo Credit – Gentleman’s Digest

It is important to know the parts of the rifle stock to help understand what type of stock will work best for our rifle and chosen application of said rifle. As shown in the diagram above, the parts of the rifle stock’s anatomy are mainly the butt and forend with the butt having a comb, heel, toe and grip.

Butt

The butt of the rifle stock is the part that is held into the shooter’s shoulder. Oftentimes with larger caliber rifles you will notice padding added to it to reduce felt recoil.

Comb

The comb of the rifle stock is the top of the stock where the shooter will rest our cheek to sight down the barrel or optic. Comb is very important as it puts the shooter’s eye into the perfect spot for aiming and eye relief for the optic.

Grip

Grips on a rifle stock are fairly self-explanatory. This is the part the stock the shooter’s hand holds keeping the butt tight into the shoulder.

Forend

A forend of the gun stock is where the shooter’s supporting arm holds the rifle up and maneuvers with the gun to aim it towards the target. It will be important to have a forend with excellent grip that fits the shooter’s body well.

Rifle Stock Construction

Rifle stocks can be made of many different materials and in many different styles. Ask yourself what type of climate you will be shooting in and the purpose of the gun. For instance, extreme temperatures often experienced in big-game hunting could potentially cause wood to warp, so a composite of some nature might be a better choice. Let’s take a look at a few of the material options.

Hardwood

Hardwood rifle stocks can vary greatly in accuracy and are susceptible to changes in temperatures, warping etc. When selecting a hardwood gun stock try to find one in a type of wood that is extra dense and hard. The softer the wood, the more prone to warping, shrinking/expanding and cracks the rifle stock will be.

A Curly Maple Hardwood Rifle Stock. Photo Credit – Accurate Shooter Bulletin

If we want a fancy, beautiful rifle stock we’ll be able to find a hardwood stock in nearly every exotic wood you can think of, making this a great choice for a displayed weapon as well as a great choice for a hunting rifle. Prices can vary from $50 into the thousands.

Laminated

Laminated wood has a very high accuracy potential and is more resistant to changes in temperature and humidity because it is multiple layers of wood glued together and then sealed. This glue binding agent repels moisture and because we aren’t dealing with the natural grain of the wood we don’t have to worry about weak points that can eventually crack usually.

Laminated Rifle Stock. Photo Credit: Eabco

One thing to keep in mind with a laminated stock is that they can be heavier than the other options – one reason you see these stocks on benchrest long-range rifles. Laminated rifle stocks can usually be found under $500.

Injection Molded Synthetic

Injection Molded Synthetic rifle stocks are usually amongst the cheapest we can buy. These gun stocks are produced by injecting molten plastic in a mold. While these stocks might seem appealing due to price there are several drawbacks.

Injection Molded Synthetic rifle stocks are not stronger or lighter than most wood gun stocks and their strength and stiffness can diminish as the thermoplastics used heat up in the summer sun or from the heat of shooting. Less rigid rifle stocks can have effects on accuracy.

An Injection Molded Synthetic Rifle Stock. Photo Credit – Sportsman Guide

Composite Synthetic

Composite rifle stocks are what you will usually see on high-end and military weapons. These are made from resin-soaked fabrics and powders put into a mold, compressed and allowed to cure. Composite Synthetic gun stocks can be made from various materials such as fiberglass, engineered fabrics or carbon fiber.

Composite Synthetic Rifle Stock. Photo Credit – Recoil Magazine

Rifle Stocks made in this manner and from these materials will often have reinforced stress points with something such as Aluminum. Lightweight, rigidity and chemically inert are the pros of these stocks but be prepared to shell out big money for them.

Bolt Action Stock vs AR Stock

Bolt-action rifles have an endless amount of options it seems but the AR-15 does as well. In general AR-15 stocks are Composite Synthetic or Injection Molded stocks. Typically AR-15 stocks are much more adjustable than your average bolt-action rifle stock. Remember that the AR platform of rifles are incredibly customizable to the shooter and their needs so the stock is going to be no different!

Retractable AR15 Stocks

Quite possibly the most common gun stock you will see on an AR is a retractable stock. This stock can be extended and retracted to fit the shooter’s size, length of pull, etc. With the flip of a lever or push of a button, the stock on your AR15 can be extended. Makes for a handy storage solution too! We like this one from Magpul here.

Fixed AR15 Stocks

Fixed AR15 stocks are what you might see on a vintage pre-ban Colt, similar to the M16 from the Vietnam-era in many cases. Obviously, if this works for a particular shooter more power to them. Modularity is the point of the AR-15 however, so it seems a bit silly not to have a more versatile gunstock. Nonetheless, many people like them. Check one out here.

AR15 Pistol Braces

AR-15 Pistols. Be careful with this one, as our beloved and revered ATF would like nothing more than to wreck your day at the range because you put a stock on your AR pistol, thus creating a Short-barreled Rifle. Thankfully, a pistol brace exists. A pistol brace is meant to be strapped to your arm to stabilize the pistol. Yes, you can shoulder a brace still. Sound stupid? Yeah, that’s because it is.

Left: A stock. Right: A pistol brace. Photo Credit – Shwat.com

Featureless AR15 Stocks

Continuing our trip down Stupidity Lane, we reach peak absurdity. In the United Soviet Socialist Republic of Cali… Errr. Sorry, we meant, in California, some lawmakers got a hair up their booties to make rifles “Featureless.” Not even going to speak about this anymore, we’ll just let the pic speak for itself. Sorry California.

A “Featureless” AR-15. Photo Credit – Caligunner.com

Shop Modulus Arms’ Butt Stocks

The gun world can be a huge rabbit hole when looking for compatible parts. We hope this helped give you some ideas for your next build or upgrading your current rifle! Don’t forget to check back often for helpful articles, tips and tricks etc! Looking for an AR-style stock? We’re slowly but surely expanding our inventory. Check out some of our favorites under parts & accessories! Until next time!

Michael Stewart, PhD, CCC-A, Professor of Audiology, Central Michigan University

Firearms Are Loud

Exposure to noise greater than 140 dB can permanently damage hearing. Almost all firearms create noise that is over the 140-dB level. A small .22-caliber rifle can produce noise around 140 dB, while big-bore rifles and pistols can produce sound over 175 dB. Firing guns in a place where sounds can reverberate, or bounce off walls and other structures, can make noises louder and increase the risk of hearing loss. Also, adding muzzle brakes or other modifications can make the firearm louder. People who do not wear hearing protection while shooting can suffer a severe hearing loss with as little as one shot, if the conditions are right. Audiologists see this often, especially during hunting season when hunters and bystanders may be exposed to rapid fire from big-bore rifles, shotguns, or pistols.

Hearing Loss Due To Firearm Noise

People who use firearms are more likely to develop hearing loss than those who do not. Firearm users tend to have high-frequency permanent hearing loss, which means that they may have trouble hearing speech sounds like “s,” “th,” or “v” and other high-pitched sounds. The left ear (in right-handed shooters) often suffers more damage than the right ear because it is closer to, and directly in line with, the muzzle of the firearm. Also, the right ear is partially protected by head shadow. People with high-frequency hearing loss may say that they can hear what is said but that it is not clear, and they may accuse others of mumbling. They may not get their hearing tested because they don’t think they have a problem. They may also have ringing in their ears, called tinnitus. The ringing, like the hearing loss, can be permanent.

Protecting Your Hearing From Firearm Noise

The good news is that people can prevent hearing loss by using appropriate hearing protective devices (HPDs), such as earmuffs or earplugs. However, studies have shown that only about half of shooters wear hearing protection all the time when target practicing. Hunters are even less likely to wear hearing protection because they say they cannot hear approaching game or other noises. While some HPDs do limit what a person can hear, there are many products that allow shooters to hear softer sounds while still protecting them from loud sounds like firearm noise.

Two types of HPDs designed for shooting sports are electronic HPDs and nonlinear HPDs. Electronic HPDs make softer sounds louder but shut off when there is a loud noise. The device then becomes hearing protection. Electronic HPD styles include earmuffs, custom-made in-the-ear devices, one-size-fits-all plugs, and behind-the-ear devices.

Nonlinear HPDs are not electronic and are designed to allow soft and moderate sounds to pass through, while still reducing loud sounds. Nonlinear HPDs can be either earplugs that are inserted into the ear or custom-made earmolds. Nonlinear HPDs that have filters are the best choice. They are better than those that use mechanical valves. This is because the valves may not close fast enough to protect hearing from loud noise.

The U.S. military uses both electronic and nonlinear HPDs to protect soldiers’ hearing during combat and weapons training. Electronic HPDs cost from less than $100 for earmuffs to over $1,000 for high-technology custom-made devices. Insert plug-type nonlinear HPDs cost around $10-$20, while custom-made nonlinear devices cost around $100-$150 per pair. Talk with your audiologist to choose the type of hearing protection that is right for you.

Tips To Protect Your Hearing

• Always use some type of hearing protection any time you fire a gun.
• Always have disposable HPDs handy—make them part of your gear.
• Double-protect your ears, like putting muffs over plugs, when shooting big-bore firearms.
• Choose smaller caliber firearms for target practice and hunting.
• Choose single-shot firearms instead of lever action, pump, or semi-automatic guns.
• Avoid shooting in groups or in reverberant environments.
• Use electronic or nonlinear HPDs for hunting.