Lighting a bonfire isn’t all that difficult as long as you have the right materials and tools. Start small by gathering dry tinder – very small twigs, leaves, newspaper, and other small materials that will easily catch fire. Then gather your kindling – larger sticks and thin pieces of wood to add on top of the burning tinder.

Finally, you’ll need your fuel wood. Larger branches, logs, and pieces of wood will burn slowly and keep your fire going. Get all the material on hand before you light anything or else you risk burning your tinder and kindling and having no fire to show for it.

However, for everyone else that doesn’t have a tree in their backyard or a wooded area to gather these materials, lighting a fire can be a bit more difficult. Regardless of how you start the fire, you’ll need some kindling to help catch the larger pieces of wood.

If all you have are larger pieces of wood, you can use an axe, hatchet, or even the Kindling Cracker, below, to help break small pieces off of the split logs. Throw these pieces on top of the ideas we’re going to walk through below.

We recommend the Kindling Cracker XL Firewood Splitter

6 Foolproof Ways to Light a Bonfire

Use Charcoal

Inexpensive, readily available, and slow-burning, charcoal is great for not only grilling but getting a fire going too. Pick it up at any gas station, grocery store, or campground with a bottle of lighter fluid and you’re ready to go! Lighter fluid helps get the charcoal going, but a charcoal chimney will save you money in the long run since it makes it easier to light the fire.

If you choose to use lighter fluid, make sure you let the lighter fluid soak into the charcoal for a minute or two before lighting. An added benefit of using a charcoal chimney is that if you choose to grill over your fire, you won’t get the lighter fluid taste cooked into your food.

We Recommend the Kingsford Quick Start Charcoal Chimney Starter

Cooking Oil and Paper Towel Waste

Next time you have leftover cooking oil, throw it into a large mason jar. Anytime you have paper towels that are still semi-dry, add those to the mason jar as well. These paper towels will soak up the used cooking oil and are great for lighting directly under kindling.

Bacon Grease, Toilet Paper Rolls, and Dryer Lint

If you grew up with a mason jar of bacon grease in the fridge, most of your meals were probably pretty tasty, even if they leaned towards the ‘unhealthy’ side of the spectrum. While you might not cook with bacon grease like your parents once did, that doesn’t mean you need to throw it out after a Saturday morning breakfast.

Keep your extra bacon grease in a mason jar and start saving your empty toilet paper/paper towel rolls along with any dryer lint. Lightly stuff the empty cardboard tubes with dryer lint and add in some bacon grease after it’s been heated up.

These are great fire starters you can put into a ziplock bag and take on the go. If you prefer working with something a little cleaner, the coffee ground option we mention in this list is the better option.

Sawdust and Paper Briquettes

This option requires quite a lot more effort than the previously mentioned ideas. If you do any sort of DIY projects where you’re cutting wood, you know it creates a lot of sawdust. Combine this sawdust with all the junk mail and amazon boxes that come to your house and you have a ton of burnable wood/paper products.

With some water and elbow grease, you can turn these wood by-products into burnable ‘logs’ or briquettes. A few videos are included below on how to do this, but the idea is simple.

• Create a paper/sawdust slushy – Add shredded paper, shredded cardboard, and sawdust to a water mixture.
• Push the slushy mixture into forms – whether bricks, bucket-shaped, etc.
• Squeeze the water out, then allow the ‘logs’ to dry in the sun

You don’t need a fancy rig or setup like many of the people below have. You can get started doing this with just 2x 5-gallon buckets and a piece of wood.

Pre-made Starters

While going the DIY route is easy and fun, it is time-consuming. For those strapped for time, below are our suggestions for pre-made fire starters.

We recommend QuickSurvive All-Purpose Waterproof Fire Starters

Tips for Lighting your Bonfire

Use Only Dry Firewood

Even if the wood appears dry, it might not be. A good way to determine if it’s fully dry is to drop it on concrete. If you hear a firm ‘thud’, rather than a hollow echo, then there’s still some moisture in it and you may have trouble lighting it.

If this wood is still a little damp, it will burn. If you’re in a pinch to get a fire going, buy some kiln-dried firewood to get the fire going, then add your slightly damp wood on top. It will smoke a bit more than fully-seasoned wood, but it’ll usually burn.

Feed the Embers Oxygen

After you’ve added your kindling and it’s begun burning well, start feeding it oxygen. You can use a piece of cardboard to fan it, or if you have an air inflator or leaf blower, those will work much better. The oxygen helps to raise the temperature of the fire and help it burn more efficiently. This helps the wood you’re adding catch faster.

Don’t Suffocate the Fire with Paper

If you have a large stack of paper or other documents you’re trying to get rid of, feed them to the fire slowly – preferably in crumpled balls. It’s easy to drop a large pile of papers and wait for them to catch, but you’ll risk suffocating the fire.

Buy a Blow Torch

If you have enough bonfires, using a stick lighter or matches gets old after a while. A blow torch head is under $20 and the refill tanks are only $3 or so a piece and last quite a while. Your thumbs and fingers will thank you.

Other Scenarios

How to Light a Beach Bonfire

Lighting a beach bonfire isn’t all that different from a backyard fire. There are only a few different precautions you’ll want to take to make the fire safe and enjoyable for everyone.

For starters, you’ll want to have a small shovel with you. The Glock E-tool is perfect for this and if your car is ever stuck in the mud or snow, this tool is a lifesaver for that too.

We recommend the Glock’s Entrenching Tool with Saw (E-Tool)

Dig a shallow hole in the sand and build a small berm around the perimeter of the hole. If there are some larger rocks you can move next to the berm, even better.

PRO-TIP

Make sure you know where the high tide comes in and stay well away from that area. Water can pool up in the bottom of your fire pit and cut your night short.

Pat down the bottom of the hole so you have a firm surface to work with. If you have additional rocks, these can be added to the bottom of the hole for a hard dry surface for the wood to sit on. The irregularities in the shapes of the rocks will also allow more air to flow to the fire.

Now you can gather all of your tinder, kindling, and fuel materials to get the fire going. Typically, it’s better to use a tee-pee structure for a beach bonfire, since that will encourage more air to flow to the embers. After the party is over, be sure to extinguish the fire with plenty of water and then bury the embers and ashes.

CAUTION

Check local laws to ensure it is legal for you to have a bonfire on the beach. Some areas will require you to request a permit.

Safety Precautions

Avoid Using Accelerants – Do NOT Use Gasoline

Apart from being a poor bonfire starter, using gas is dangerous and can be explosive. The vapors coming off of gasoline are what catch fire before the liquid itself does. Gasoline tends to ‘flash’ and can flash large enough to catch you and anything around you on fire before you even know it.

Charcoal and lighter fluid are much safer alternatives as long as you follow the directions on their packaging.

Don’t Burn Pressure Treated Wood or Anything Else Chemically Treated

Pressure-treated wood is most easily recognized by its greenish tint. Avoid burning this wood at all costs. Pressure-treated wood has been injected with chemicals to prevent it from decaying when in contact with the ground or moisture.

It goes without saying that burning this wood releases these chemicals into the air, which are known to cause cancer. Always wash your hands after handling pressure-treated wood

Welcome to our best work boots for standing and working on concrete floors review for 2022 (updated for 2024).

To bring you this article we’ve researched 68 websites looked at 22 work boots brands and models, read 100s of reviews and customer feedback for a total amount of 41 hours.

We’ve done all of this in order to bring you the best information about working on concrete surfaces and the best boots and features to look out for when shopping in this sector.

Alright, let’s go into it…

Compare these 10 comfortable concrete work boots

Here’s a quick comparison table if you’re curious about which work boots we’ve included in our round-up.

Reviews of the best concrete work boots for walking and standing all day

Alright, let’s jump into some detailed reviews of each one of these concrete work boots we’ve included in today’s round-up.

We’ll start with the one that our editor picked for you …

1. Thorogood Wedge Sole

These are the best work boots for people who want a short, six-inch pair of work boots for walking on concrete.

These boots are also made in the USA, so if supporting American jobs and families is important to you, then this is the pair of American-made work boots in this roundup.

They also feature a wedge sole. Wedge sole work boots are work boots that have a larger surface area at the bottom than heel or arch boots.

The advantage of this when working on concrete is that far more of the work boot is in contact with the ground at any one point while you are walking around.

This reduces the potential shock to your feet when you are walking around. This makes it our #1 choice for walking around on concrete, as well as the best US-made work boot.

If you are a fan of this brand then why not go and check out this great Thorogood work boots reviews round up article where you’ll find a lot more models similar to this one!?

2. Wolverine Overpass

Wolverine has been in the work boot business for decades, and they have over 200 products in their range.

So for us to say this is the best Wolverine product for concrete work in their extensive range is quite the compliment.

Weighing just 1.75 pounds per boot, your feet will feel much lighter in these boots than other brands, preventing you from exhausting yourself on the concrete surfaces.

Don’t think the lightweight means these boots are less safe. The boots meet all the requisite safety standards that you would expect from other boots in the sector.

And for working on concrete, this work boot contains an Ortholite cushioned footbed which delivers a combination of temperature regulation and comfort.

Perfect for absorbing shocks when you are working on concrete.

Plus, the flexible, athletic Contour Welt construction moves with you by bending and flexing at essential points, preventing the build-up of long-term pains and sprains.

And the slip-resistant soles also mean you won’t have to worry too much about falling over whilst on the worksite, even if you’re working in an environment with a lot of oil or slippery liquids.

So no need to worry about falling on that hard concrete floor. Check out this page if you’re still wondering if Wolverine work boots are any good. We went deep into researching this brand!

• Read My Full Review Of The Wolverine Overpass Work Boots

3. Ariat Rebar Flex

The ARIAT Men’s Rebar Flex 6″ H2o is the best composite toe work boot if you are in the construction trade and you need to work on concrete

This work boot features superb lightweight flexibility and supportive cushioning, with a 4LR footbed that keeps your feet cushioned and cool.

This makes them an ideal choice for outdoor construction workers worried about sweaty feet giving them a condition such as an athlete’s foot.

Made from waterproof leather combined with rugged mesh panels, these boots are highly durable and will protect your feet from the elements in harsh weather conditions, always assuring dry comfort.

So they are perfect for outdoor construction workers who work long days on concrete.

4. Skechers

The synthetic sole in these Skechers work boots makes it the ideal work boot for providing your feet with support and comfort whilst working on hard concrete surfaces.

And what’s even better is they are made from 100% leather, allowing your feet to breathe easily with those soft leather uppers.

People who have bought these boots have been delighted by how the memory foam insoles keep your feet ventilated with every step, allowing them to keep cool during every step.

Here’s a wider selection of great work boots to keep your feet dry and ventilated on summer days.

5. Heritage Classic

Red Wing is an excellent manufacturer of workboots who make all of their products in the USA and also run an in-house repair shop.

This means you can send your boots to them for repair for less than the cost of buying a new one, saving money, supporting cobblers, and preventing materials waste.

So if avoiding waste, shopping sustainably, and supporting American families is important to you, then Red Wing boots are the ones to buy.

The durability of the Red Wing work boots is great for most jobs that require you to stand or walk on concrete surfaces a lot.

Working on concrete does lead to work boots deteriorating more quickly- since the hard surface causes the boots to absorb a lot of shocks.

But people who bought this work boot have been delighted with how long it lasts.

Plus, for comfort, the full-grain leather that the upper boot is made from wicks away water, keeping your feet dry in treacherous conditions.

Nonetheless, the breathable membranes wick away internal moisture, keeping the inside of your boots cool and dry on a hot summer day.

6. Danner Bull Run

Danner has an extensive range of hundreds of products, from work boots to hiking and much much more.

However the Bull Run 6” work boot is the best of the best from within their range.

The boot contains a wedge sole, ensuring your weight is evenly distributed across your feet when you are working on concrete floors- reducing the risks of knee, feet, and ankle pains.

And the uppers are also made from durable, oiled full-grain upper leather for maximum comfort and durability.

Finally, it features a steel shank. This will minimize your risk of injury on the job by protecting your feet from punctures and giving them adequate support as you walk around.

Find out here if Danner’s work boots are worth the money and other cool details about the brand.

Also, we’ve put together a list of some of the best soft toe work boots here (in case you want to see what other alternatives to this Danner work boot model you can find out there)

Anyway, here’s some good and bad things about this boot…

7. Irish Setter

If you want to look like John Wayne on the worksite, the Irish Setter work boots are the most comfortable western work boots for concrete.

The heat-resistant outsole will keep your feet cool even as the concrete becomes baked in the hot outdoor sun.

It also possesses heat and electric resistant outsole that can withstand external temperatures of 475 degrees Fahrenheit and 18,000-volt shocks respectively.

Further, the 12-inch shaft measuring from the arch gives you the maximal support you need to take on the working day.

Finally, it features groundbreaking RPM technology, a breakthrough material that significantly reduces the weight of the boot, without compromising on the essential features of a work boot that keep you safe.

Want more models? Check out our top 10 best pull on work boots that you can compare with this Irish Setter boot…

8. Timberland PRO

The best pair of leather work boots from Timberland for concrete workers that we have to recommend for you is the Timberland PRO Drivetrain work boot.

These boots are simply amazing, from tough toe materials to breathability, it has it all.

This boot uses the toughest material there is, TPU, for the toe overlay, complimenting the composite toe cap for a lightweight but still very protective experience.

The outsole of the boot also uses polyurethane, which is a variant of TPU, one of the tougher materials companies are using to toughen up the soles of their boots.

The Timberland Pro Drivetrain contains an antimicrobial moisture-wicking lining, that prevents odors from lingering in the boot, keeping the feet of the users nice and fresh. It is an extremely breathable design.

And users simply love the fact that it barely weighs anything, with so many of them comparing wearing these boots to wearing basketball or tennis shoes.

The lightweight makes it ideal for walking on concrete, reducing the pressure on your feet and knees as you are walking around.

9. Merrell Men’s Moab 2

The Merrell Men’s Moab 2 Mid Waterproof Hiking Boot is the right boot for the job if you are working in hot weather.

It contains lightweight, breathable mesh uppers with abrasion-resistant synthetic overlays. These breathable mesh uppers provide increased ventilation and comfort.

It also features an abrasion-resistant synthetic overlay that helps protect your work boots against the wear and tear of a modern worksite.

As well as keeping your feet cool in hot weather, these work boots are also waterproof, and so they are ideal for outdoor workers in rainy cities.

Another awesome aspect of this product is the contoured footbeds that cradle your feet to keep them comfortable all day long.

The Merrell air cushion in the heel absorbs shock while providing stability on uneven terrain.

10. Carhartt

If you’re working on cold concrete surfaces, then this work boot is ideal for you.

Carhartt boots are specially designed for you to work in hard winter conditions. They pride themselves on the highest standards of design and componentry to ensure that you’re able to do your work safely no matter the conditions in comfort and style.

Safety for Carhartt is a top priority. Their composite (non-metallic) toe cap will protect you from dropped objects of up to 125 joules (or the equivalent of 22.7kg dropped from 56cm).

Their toe protection also extends to electrical shocks, offering protection against incidental shocks of up to 18,000 joules under dry conditions.

This makes these boots suitable for electricians and engineers as well as bricklayers and other construction professionals.

But it’s not just your toes that the Carhartt Men’s 10″ Waterproof Insulated PAC Composite Toe Boot is designed to keep you safe.

The TPU heel guard with Achilles flex joint will offer support to your arched feet, allowing you to work confidently without needing to worry about collapsed arches and other forms of long-term feet condition that might develop.

And the insulative LiteFire membrane keeps your feet dry and protects them from extreme weather conditions like rain or snow whilst also promoting airflow.

So your feet will remain warm and dry, avoiding both frostbite and athlete’s foot.

Overall, we strongly recommend that if you are working on concrete during periods of extreme cold, you invest in this pair of boots.

You will feel warm, dry, comfortable, and safe no matter the weather if you have these work boots on. Here’s our best winter work boots page in case you want to see more models for the cold season.

This section of the article will tell you about the dangers for workers on working on concrete for lengthy periods of time, as well as what features to look out for in a pair of work boots for a comfortable, pain-free experience.

The dangers of working on concrete floors for long hours

Working on concrete for long hours can be very dangerous. Concrete is a tough, unforgiving surface that will cause pain and discomfort if you are not careful when working it.

This is why we’re going to look at some of the dangers of working on concrete for too long.

1. Trips and Falls

One of the worst things about working on concrete for long hours is the risk of falling down and hurting yourself.

Concrete, unlike grass or carpeted floors, is unforgiving.

This means a fall onto concrete from any height can result in serious injury or death.

This is particularly dangerous for professionals in construction; who according to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration face twice as many deaths per capita as any other private sector occupation.

But even for workers in warehouses or other professions not involving high altitudes, slipping onto the surface can be a painful experience.

2. Feet Pain

Plantar Fasciitis is a condition that leads to pain at the point where your heel bone connects with the arch.

It can come as a result of working too much on concrete surfaces as they are inflexible, leading to unnatural pronation. Discover here if work boots can cause you plantar fasciitis.

3. Knee pain

Without rest, the knee joints can become excessively strained as a result of being over-worked

This can lead to the knees feeling stuck or tight.

In extreme instances, this can even lead to osteoarthritis.

4. Back pain

Working on concrete for long hours can lead to permanent spinal damage.

This is because concrete is a hard material, and when you’re constantly using your back muscles to work on it, it can become strained or overworked.

As a result, the discs between your vertebrae start to bulge out from their normal position due to the pressure put on them- causing lower back pain.

What you could do to avoid health problems whilst standing or walking on concrete for long hours

Walking and standing on concrete for a long period of time is, unfortunately just a fact of life for many workers, whether on construction sites, in warehouses, or people delivering the post.

There are three main things you can do to avoid health problems from this

Firstly, before starting work and during break times, it is worth doing some stretching exercises with your feet, such as ankle rolls, calf stretches, and touching your toes. This will keep your feet and legs flexible and supple for the long day of work ahead.

Losing weight can also be helpful. This will reduce the load on your knees and feet when you are standing or walking all day.

Finally, buying supportive work boots with features that will ease the strain on your feet and knees is the best thing you can do to avoid health problems. These features will be mentioned just below…

Features to look for in a good work boot for standing all day on concrete

If you’re a worker who spends long periods of time on concrete work surfaces, then buying a good pair of work boots is essential for preventing pains and long-term conditions.

This section of the buyer’s guide will inform you as to what to look out for in a work boot for standing all day on concrete, as well as some additional products you can purchase.

1. Comfort

Comfort is absolutely crucial when you are purchasing work boots and additional products. There are things you should look out for when it comes to comfort, both in the work boot and as an additional product.

2. Shock absorbing footbeds

Shock-absorbing footbeds or ‘insoles’ are great additional products.

They will provide your feet with cushioning and support, and also prevent unhealthy pronation (how feet roll to absorb shock when walking).

One particularly effective product is Dr. Scholl’s Massaging Gel Insoles, which are clinically proven to relieve pain by workers.

They provide excellent cushioning, so it’s almost like you are walking on pillows.

3. Cushioned midsoles

As well as inserts, a good midsole is crucial to having a comfortable work boot.

The midsole is the bit of the work boot between the outsole on the bottom and the upper.

Making sure the midsole is well-cushioned will allow for ample shock absorption, flex support and will support good pronation.

4. Slip resistant outsoles

Hopefully, the concrete work surface you are working on is even, however, there may occasionally be spills, or if you are working outdoors and it starts to rain, then you can slip and seriously hurt yourself.

To prevent this, the outsole, the part of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground, needs to be made from a non-slip material.

Soft rubber will be able to grab hold of a slippery concrete surface whereas boots with a harder, stiffer outsole would not be able to.

5. Wedge soles

People often find wedge sole work boots, of which there are a couple in this roundup, most comfortable for working on concrete surfaces.

By spreading the surface area in contact with the ground more broadly, and having a wider area in play, distributes the force of the impact more than a typical boot sole.

So workers in construction, factories, warehouses, or garages find wedge soles more comfortable than boots with an arch.

6. Material

Leather is the best material for working on concrete as it is resistant to water and dust, making it ideal for concrete workers who work in construction or development.

Leather boots in general have a good combination of grip, stability, comfort, and durability, making them ideal for workers on concrete surfaces.

7. Brand

The benefit of a good brand of work boots is that they signify trust and innovation.

These brands will invest millions into research and development so as to make more effective products.

You can also find out more information more easily than for small independent manufacturers, such as the manufacturing process and how other customers found wearing the work boots.

Brands are often able to give great deals on warranties and returns owing to the volume of trade that they do.

The downside to brands is they may cost more. (But you’ll look more fashionable :D) Also, make sure these brands really do have the cutting-edge features they promise before paying out the extra $$.

Benefits of wearing a good work boot whilst working on concrete floors

The benefits of a good pair of work boots for people who work or move on concrete surfaces are comfort, the prevention of developing feet pains, and good support/ traction for the avoidance of more serious injuries.

Concrete Work Boots Q&A

Have questions about buying work boots for concrete you are too afraid to ask your supervisor?

Have no fear, this section of the article will address some of the most common queries users have had about concrete, comfort, and work boots.

Do all work boots for concrete have steel toe?

No, many of the work boots in this roundup have a soft toe or a synthetic toe.

What is the most durable work boot outsole for concrete?

For concrete surfaces, dense molded rubber is the most durable outsole material available.

A nice thick rubber will absorb the shock from walking on concrete to a much greater extent than other materials.

And it will also last longer due to the dense rubber being more durable than synthetic outsoles.

Why do your Feet hurt after Walking on Concrete?

The lack of flexibility of concrete floors, compared to say grass or carpets, creates muscle wear as a result of the shock being felt in the bones. Across the tendons, these shocks will result in pains, aches, and sores.

Your ankle also can feel pain as the ankle is a collection of bones. Think of it like shaking pebbles together in a rigid plastic bag.

Since many shoes encourage us to walk with our heels, this can exacerbate the problem.

Final Verdict On The Best Work Boots For Concrete

In our opinion, the best work boots for concrete are the Thorogood Maxwear.

This work boot contains the best in supportive technology, pain reduction, and cushioning.

Ensuring you can get a good day’s work done without having to worry about long-term feet pain, or tripping and falling over on the concrete.

Those are common dangers of working on concrete, and if you are spending long hours on the hard surface, you need to make sure that you are protecting yourself with a high-quality pair of work boots.

Wedge soles are good, but high-quality tread can also make all the difference.

As can a good internal cushion in the work boot, a steel shank, and a breathable leather design.

Team Members Working On This Page

Last Updated on November, 2024

A shock collar can help you resolve most of your dog’s behavior problems. From obedience to excessive bark training, a good shock collar will help you achieve quick and fast results when combined with correct training methods.

Since Golden Retrievers are active and playful dogs, you need the best quality shock collar to wean your dog off unsafe and negative behavior safely. To help you with that, this article reviews 7 shock collars suitable for a Golden Retriever.

Also, the buying guide will give you a deeper insight into how you can evaluate the features offered by a shock collar.

The Best Shock Collars for Golden Retrievers

1. Pet Resolve PTS1200

You can try multiple combinations to create the perfect training for your Golden Retriever.

This shock collar offers a super-long ¾ mile range that can easily cover wide outdoor areas.

So you can train your dog while letting it have the freedom to explore a massive area.

An interesting feature of this shock collar is the ‘Remove the shock function‘ feature. Yes, you can opt out of the shock function by swapping the metal prongs with the plastic ones. It converts the shock into vibration so that you can use this training unit as a beep and vibration-only system.

This shock collar has a memory function that lets you resume the training session where you left off. The anti-bark function comes in handy when your dog barks unwantedly. And the night mode guides you on night walks with the help of the LED light.

You can also accessorize the collar with extra-long prongs to improve skin contact. It eliminates the need to trim your dog’s fur. It comes in handy for dogs like Golden Retrievers.

These training collars are made of the highest quality materials to make them completely waterproof, meaning your dog can take them for a swim all year around. The collar is adjustable for Golden Retrievers 15 lbs and over.

The Pet Resolve PTS1200 was rated no.1 because, unlike other shock collars, it lets you opt out of using the shock but is available when needed. Other shock collars will always have the shock to be combined, but you can’t skip it.

The fact that you skip this function as you see fit makes it a crucial versatility because you are here shopping for the best shock collar for your Golden Retriever.

2. Halo 2+ Training Collar

Like other collars with a remote/transmitter, the Halo 2+ has the Halo app as the control unit. To use this shock collar, you have to first create virtual fences, and that’s done through the app.

You can create fences wherever you want: your backyard, the play park, the beach, the mall, etc. Also, the app has a location tracking feature that allows you to keep track of your dog even when you are away.

The Halo 2+ collar comes in three sizes small, medium, and large, so it can fit neck sizes ranging from 11 to 30.5 inches. And the collar gives a runtime of 21 hours per charge. So at the end of the day, you can recharge it along with your other smart devices.

As for comfort and durability, the Halo 2+ shock collar is made of extremely durable material that is chew-resistant, slobber-proof, and waterproof at IP67.

3. Educator E-Collar Humane Dog Training Collar

And the transmitter has a range of ½ mile for long-distance communication.

Powered by rechargeable Li-Po batteries, the collar and remote have a quick 2-hour recharge. And the low battery indicators will keep you informed of the battery status.

These shock collars have a fully waterproof construction that is also shock resistant to withstand long-term and frequent use, even around water.

4. SportDOG Brand SportTrainer Remote Trainers

This dog shock collar features tone, vibration, and10 levels of static stimulation to allow the trainer to customize a training process accommodating varying learning curves of different dogs.

You can use the static mode on continuous, momentary, rising, or boosted continuous static stimulations options.

The collar and transmitter run on rechargeable lithium-ion batteries with a quick 2-hour recharge period and long working life. And the use of DryTek® Technology keeps the system waterproof and submersible up to 25 feet, so it is usable through various wet conditions.

5. PetSpy Dog Shock Collar With 1950ft Remote

The blind design of the remote featuring easy-to-use buttons ensures full focus on the training while allowing long-distance control over 650 yards for safe training even when off-leash. Also, the collar is adjustable for dogs weighing 10 lbs to 120 lbs.

This shock collar’s durable and waterproof quality makes it great for all outdoor enthusiasts. The high-quality construction ensures frequent use even in the rain.

Rechargeable Li-ion batteries power the collar and the remote. And the fast charging technology, you have a collar with a long-lasting battery life ready to use whenever.

6. My Pet Command Dog Training Collar

And you can also train in the rain. The bright beacon flashing lights on the collar will help keep track of your dog at night. Also, the collar is adjustable to fit neck sizes of 8.2” – 26.5″.

7. DT Systems IDT-Plus Micro Dog Trainer Collar

The collar is lightweight, compact, fully waterproof, and adjustable. The collar also has an internal antenna system to notify the maxx range and a smart LED light that is especially handy for nighttime use.

A Buyer’s Guide to Help Choose the Best Shock Collar for Your Golden Retriever

Before you decide on a collar, you must consider a few factors and the functionality of these factors to determine if the collar can fulfill your needs. Below are a few factors that will help you make the best purchase for your Golden Retriever.

1. Purpose of Purchase

Shock collars should strictly be used as a training tool for behavior modification like excessive barking, aggressive behavior, or basic day-to-day obedience.

Determining the purpose of purchase will help you choose the most suitable shock collar to fulfill your purpose effectively.

For example, if you need a shock collar to correct unwanted barking, a collar like the Pet Resolve would be the best bet, as it includes an anti-bark function targeted at such corrections. Besides, you can use the same collar for overall obedience too.

2. Effective Coverage & Range

Having a long-range to work with is a good thing when working with playful dogs like Golden Retrievers. It will allow your dog more ground area for fun and play.

Choose a shock collar that can effectively cover your regular surroundings and the areas your dog is allowed to roam in so that you don’t lose a connection even if your dog goes far.

It is also important to note that timing is everything regarding training. A standby mode although conserves battery affects the timing of the correction delivered.

So for effective and timely corrections, I’d recommend a collar like the Pet Resolve PTS1200, which no longer includes the standby mode.

3. The Size of Your Golden Retriever

Golden Retrievers are moderately big dogs with long fur. For the collar to have a reliable effect, the shock should effectively reach the dog without causing any discomfort or pain.

A collar that is adjustable and features longer prongs to allow good contact with the dog’s skin is what you should look for.

4. Efficient Training Modes With Adjustable Intensity Levels

5. Durability and Reliability

A shock collar should be a long-term investment. To ensure it stays long-term, look into the materials used to craft a collar. Leather, biothane, nylon, sturdy buckles, and metal fixtures contribute to the collar’s durability.

Also, check for waterproof and impact-proof qualities for added durability so you can use them in various weather conditions.

6. Battery Life

Longer the battery life, the longer the use you can harvest out of it before recharging again. And this is important because it saves your time and energy from having to recharge recurrently.

So ideally, choose a shock collar with a high-capacity rechargeable battery for long battery life.

7. Function to Price Ratio

So many shock collars are available from various brands. And all these collars offer something that makes them different from each other. But do you need all those features?

No, you don’t. But you have to know what features you will best benefit from. Accordingly, you can weigh the price tag against the collar’s features to determine if it’s worth the price.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

You can gain effective results from training only when the shock collar is used as humanely as possible.

With consistent training, starting from mild stimulations, you can set the right tone for your Golden Retriever to understand the whole point of training.

Eventually, you may not even need the shock function because dogs are intelligent creatures. They only need a little nudge to push them in the right direction.

My recommendation for you to achieve reliable results is the Pet Resolve PTS1200. It has all the features you need for a thorough conditioning process to help train your dog.

Loving the outdoors, wanting to put some food on the table and maybe spending some quality time with friends. These are just some of the reasons people get started with bird hunting.

Upland birds are game birds that including quail, pheasant, grouse, woodcock, prairie chicken or partridge.

Learn from those who know

For first time bird hunters, getting started is as easy as finding a local class covering hunting safety and regulations.

“I always encourage anyone looking to start bird hunting to not pass go,” said Wes Siler, Montana-based outdoorsman, adventure traveler and author of Outside Magazine’s column IndefinitelyWild. “Enroll in a hunters’ education course where you will get the best information on all the hunting basics and safety.”

Many states, Siler said, require successful completion of a hunter safety course before issuing a hunting license. The laws and seasons associated with upland bird hunting vary state to state. Always check with your state’s fish and game commission to know the latest in laws and what is in season.

“Typically this is a one-day class taught by volunteers [and] is equivalent to the drivers ed course you took in high school,” Siler wrote in a recent column. “Even if you’re already familiar with firearms and the outdoors, hunter’s ed is a fantastic refresher in all the nitty-gritty details of remaining legal and safe in the field.

In some states, the course is required to obtain a hunting licence, but even where it’s not mandatory it’s recommended to take one. The course will also answer a number of beginner questions including what are the best types of guns to use and what kind of ammunition works best for specific game birds.

Getting out into the field

Hunter education course certificate and hunting license in hand, it’s time to get out into the field.

“The nice thing about bird hunting is you can find groups of people to hunt with,” Silas said. “Either an informal hunting party of friends or a paid guide can take you out and you can start to put what you learned in [hunter’s ed] into practice.”

Unlike guided big game hunts for animals like deer, bear, moose or elk which Silas said can cost in the thousands of dollars, a guided bird hunt will usually run around $100.

“Having a guide or someone with real experience with you helps you get out for an authentic and fun hunting experience,” Siler said. “A guided bird hunt is really the easiest possible entry point into the sport of hunting.”

What equipment and gear do I need to get started with bird hunting?

As for what to bring on the first hunts? Siler, who’s been hunting since he was a young boy, recommends the basics — a shotgun, ammunition and patience.

“If the weather is good, all you need to wear are jeans, a t-shirt and tennis shoes,” he said.

Silas is a fan of the 12-gauge shotgun for bird hunting that has been outfitted with a “choke-tube.” A choke tube is a tapered attachment for the front of a shotgun barrel, it can be set to shoot the shot from a shell in a narrow to wide, scattered path.

By mixing and matching the type of shot used in individuals shells and the set-path for that shot Siler said you can custom-configure the shotgun to specific birds and terrain, making it a very versatile weapon.

“You can open the choke tube up for a wider spread of shot if your target is close in,” he said. “Or you can set it so the shot’s path is narrow and goes a greater distance.”

John Holyoke, longtime Maine outdoorsman, staff writer and writer of the outdoors column Out There for The Bangor Daily News,and Julie Harris, fellow columnist at the Bangor Daily News with It’s a Bird Dog’s Life, both hunt with .20-gauge shotguns. They recommend wearing at least a blaze orange hat or vest so you are visible in the woods.

Siler agrees wearing either a hat or vest that has blaze orange on it, making you visible to other hunters who are in your group or in the area, is a very good idea.

Harris likes to also wear a vest with pockets into which she can place a whistle, ammunition, a compass and anything else she may need for a day in the woods. Vests can also have a larger pocket in the back to place dressed out birds from a successful hunt.

“I always make sure to have good rubber boots,” she said. “The terrain can get mucky at times.”

Go where the birds are

If bird hunting is the best entry point to hunting, as far as Siler is concerned, grouse are the gateway birds.

“Let’s face it, grouse are pretty stupid,” he said with a laugh. “Their defense when frightened is to stand still and freeze, which makes them a good target for hunting.”

To successfully start hunting upland birds, you first need to find them. And once you understand bird habitat, you are well on your way to spotting the game.

According to Holyoke, successful bird hunters know that upland birds prefer to hang around in good cover made up of scrubby brush and new growth associated with old pastures that are going back to trees.

“These are called ‘successive forestland,’” Holyoke said. “It’s the kind of spot that provides everything the [upland] birds need in terms of habitat.”

When a cover area grows up to the point it no longer meets the needs of the birds, Holyoke said the birds move on to a new spot, so where birds congregate changes over time.

“These covers age-out over time and even more than a favorite fishing spot, the location of active cover area is closely guarded by bird hunters.”

Walking through forestland that has been cut within five or so years, or on old pasture is a good way to come across bird cover and the birds themselves.

Because the birds will likely see you before you spot them, they may not freeze in place. They may attempt to quickly fly away, meaning you have “flushed” it from the cover.

Some hunters, Holyoke said, will only shoot at a bird if it is flying, or “on the wing.” Other hunters, he said, will fire at a bird that is walking or just sitting on the ground.

A bird hunter’s best friend has four paws and a great nose

The single best piece of equipment a bird hunter can have is a good dog, Siler said. For someone starting out, that is often not possible given the time and expense associated with obtaining and training a good bird dog.

“I hunt with friends who have bird dogs,” Siler said, adding his three large rescue dogs love to go on hunts but are far more interested in catching game for themselves. “It’s one reason that when you start out, it’s a good idea to contract with a guide, especially if he or she hunts with dogs.”

Some bird hunters hunt with dogs, who can help locate birds, flush them out and retrieve them. But not all dogs do the same work.

There are “flushing dogs” like the cocker spaniel Holyoke uses, who flush the birds out of cover and into the open.

Then there are the “pointing dogs” like the Brittney Spaniels used by Harris. Her dogs sneak up on the birds, stand still and use their nose and one leg to point out the hidden bird.

Harris said the first step in deciding what kind of dog you want along on a hunt is deciding what you want that dog to do.

Then she said it really comes down to breed preference, Harris said. Though she did add the smaller dogs like the Cocker Spaniels tend to make better indoor pets for those who want their hunting dogs to be part of the family inside and out.

“After you choose what kind of dog you want, make sure you do your homework and research breeders,” she said. “Most have websites and many can be seen and talked to at hunting events and sports shows.”

A bird in the pot

Maybe the best part of bird hunting, after the thrill of the hunt itself, is feasting on the day’s bounty, Siler said.

As far as dressing out those birds — cleaning them after they are shot — Holyoke recommends turning to the internet and checking out the myriad of online videos devoted to that subject.

Then, it’s time to get cooking.

In Maine, Holyoke said, it’s common to simply saute the breast of a grouse or woodcock in butter with a bit of garlic. Others like to parboil and cook the breast meat in a batch of baked beans. Soups and stews are also popular.

Regardless of cooking methods, newcomers to hunting and eating game birds will notice a difference in flavor.

Siler recommends checking the internet for recipes on cooking wild birds.

Over the years, Siler has filled coolers with cheap champagne and brined the birds in it overnight, smoked entire birds, deep fried whole birds in peanut oil and roasted breasts. He’s even prepared a pheasant-au-vin.

“Judging by the amount of people who have tried their first game meat at my house and then asked how they could get started, I’ve done a pretty good job,” he said of his culinary and hunting skills, and adding he tells them, “Becoming a hunters is easier and more fun than you think.”

It’s homesteading skills month on Hello Homestead! Every weekday this month, we’ll be highlighting a skill for living a self-sufficient life. Make sure you LIKE our page on Facebook, FOLLOW on Twitter, FOLLOW us on Instagram and/or sign up for our newsletter so you don’t miss a single one!

There is accomplishment and satisfaction enough in just taking a mature buck. Doing so on public land? Now that’s another level of high-five in the deer woods.

Georgia offers some very good deer hunting on public lands, from state-managed Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) to federal lands like national forests and national wildlife refuges. Here’s a look at some of the public-land bucks taken by GON subscribers and entered in the Truck-Buck Contest this season.

Celyon WMA Bow-Buck Ceylon is Georgia’s newest WMA with 27,000 acres in Camden County in southeast Georgia near the coast. The area follows quality-buck regulations—legal bucks must have at least 4 points (1-inch or longer) on either antler or a 15-inch outside spread.

It was during the first archery-only hunt at Ceylon this season when Waynesville’s Alex Harrelson took advantage of southeast Georgia’s early rut to get a nice 10-point buck with his compound bow during a morning hunt on Sept. 23.

“The buck came through an open stand of pines chasing a doe,” Alex said. “I had to grunt twice to get him to stop 43 yards away.”

The buck had a live-weight of 180 pounds.

Muzzleloader Buck From Oconee National Forest Living in Monticello, Tyler Farmer is close to lots of great public land in middle Georgia. On Oct. 9 during the primitive-weapons/youth week, Tyler headed to a familiar tract in Jasper County.

“I went into this area on Oconee National Forest knowing it held some bigger deer. I’ve been blessed to harvest a few bucks out of the section,” Tyler said. “I got in there a little early waiting on daylight. I had that feeling something good was gonna happen. I was hunting an oak/pine hilltop on the edge of a pine thicket/bedding area. Around 8:40 that morning he appeared out of the thicket and came out into the white oaks. He presented me with a 65-yard broadside shot with my .45 cal CVA muzzleloader. It was a blessed day!”

VPA Buck… What’s A VPA? VPA stands for Voluntary Public Access—these are generally smaller tracts of private land that the state leases using money from a federal grant program. For the 2021 hunting seasons, there are 16 VPA properties that offer some type of public hunting access, ranging from archery-only deer hunting to dove hunting.

One of those VPA tracts is the 934-acre Pleasant Valley VPA in Bartow County, which offers youth bowhunting Sept. 11 to Oct. 15, and then four quota firearms deer hunts for kids. Peyton Bowan, 14, spent Halloween evening on one of those quota gun hunts, and it paid off with a 7-point buck. Peyton and his dad were set up in a ground blind when the buck offered a 75-yard shot, and Peyton made it count.

“The deer dropped in its tracks and the celebration began,” said Petyon’s dad, Mark. “It was a memorable quota hunt. Thanks DNR!”

Cedar Creek WMA Still A Deer Factory Cedar Creek WMA is part of the Oconee National Forest, but it’s managed as a state wildlife management area, which means it has special regulations and more limited days of deer hunting. The mid-November firearms hunt this season was Nov. 11-13, which hit about just right for the peak of the rut in this part of middle Georgia. Cedar Creek is in Jones, Jasper and Putnam counties.

Two good Cedar Creek WMA bucks were entered in Week 9 of the Truck-Buck contest.

Quality-Managed B.F. Grant WMA Produces 12-Point Buck Greg Williams ignored the timber-cutting operations going on in the area while he was hunting B.F. Grant WMA, and apparently a buck ignored the machinery, as well. During a quota firearms hunt on Nov. 6, Greg shot a nice 12-point buck on the Putnam County WMA that is owned by UGA.

“I’d been hunting the area for three days,” Greg said. “They had been pulpwood cutting in the area with machinery, but I figured I would give it one last try in the area. I knew there were big bucks in the area. At 6 p.m. the buck came up to cross the little field by the clearcut and the machinery, and I shot him 70 yards from the wood-cutting equipment.”

Flint River WMA In The Heart Of Big-Buck County Dooly County and the Flint River corridor have long held special esteem when it comes to producing quality Georgia bucks. Flint River WMA is in the heart of it.

On Nov. 19, Jeff Horton was drawn for the quota firearms hunt on the WMA, and he went home to Clyo with plenty of meat and a nice rack. Jeff killed a 224-lb. (live weight) 10-point buck.

“On the second day of a three-day hunt at Flint River WMA, at 7:05 a.m. a doe came out, and behind her this buck came out a minute or two later,” Jeff said. “He started to trot away, and I stopped him with a mouth call. When he stopped, he presented me with a shot 50 yards away.”

These are just a handful of the nice public-land bucks taken this season. See all the bucks entered in the Truck-Buck contest, where bucks can be sorted by county and week of the season.

Summer is here, and you know what that means: it’s fire pit season. In recent years, backyard fire pits have exploded in popularity, because let’s be honest: what’s better than sitting around a warm fire on a cool summer night while roasting marshmallows for s’mores? Nothing, that’s what. And if there’s one brand that can take the lion’s share of the credit for making home fire pits a thing, it’s Solo Stove.

Solo Stove’s popularity can be attributed to a number of factors. Its fire pits are ruggedly-built, well-designed, easy to use and (mostly) portable. The brand’s trademark smokeless technology actually works, eliminating the most annoying thing about traditional fire pits and bonfires: the smoke that seems to constantly always be in your face no matter how hard you try to escape it.

The Texas-based brand offers a number of products outside of its core fire pit lineup, including pizza ovens, patio heaters, camp stoves and an array of accessories, but when most people say “Solo Stove,” they’re referring to fire pits. But there isn’t just one definitive fire pit made by the brand — Solo Stove makes a number of different models in various sizes to suit different needs and situations. So if you’ve been wondering about different Solo Stove sizes and wondering which of the brand’s fire pits to get, here’s what you need to know.

What All Solo Stove Fire Pits Have in Common

Signature 360° Airflow: This is the defining feature of Solo Stove’s fire pits. It’s a proprietary ventilation system that uses a system of perforations throughout the fire pit to continually feed fresh oxygen to the base of the fire while simultaneously pumping superheated oxygen to the top of the flame. This results in both a hotter and more efficient flame and a near-total absence of smoke.

304 Stainless Steel Construction: Every Solo Stove fire pit, regardless of size, has the same general design made from 304 stainless steel. That makes them extremely durable and resistant to heat, while also keeping them relatively lightweight. Even the largest Solo Stove is technically portable (though you might need some help lugging it around).

Lifetime Warranty: Finally, every fire pit sold by Solo Stove is backed by a lifetime warranty against manufacturer’s defects. And even if your Solo Stove is damaged through your own misuse, the brand will still give you a 50 percent discount on a replacement.

Solo Stove Mesa

• Diameter: 5.1 inches
• Height: 6.8 inches
• Weight: 1.4 pounds

The smallest Solo Stove fire pit is the Mesa, which is designed to sit on a tabletop and stands just 5.1 inches tall on its included stand. But don’t let the diminutive size fool you: this is a Solo Stove fire pit, through and through. It features dual-fuel capabilities, meaning you can use either wood pellets or firewood — very tiny firewood — as fuel. Unlike other Solo Stoves, the Mesa is also available in a variety of colors other than plain stainless steel, including limited-time options that pop up now and then.

Given its small size, this isn’t the fire pit for the family to gather around in the backyard. It’s designed to live on a table, with a warming radius of just one or two feet. It’s ideal for a couple or to add a little ambiance to an outdoor meal.

Solo Stove Mesa XL

• Diameter: 7 inches
• Height: 8.6 inches
• Weight: 2.3 pounds

The Mesa XL is, as you may have deduced, a larger version of the Mesa. It’s two inches wider, roughly two inches taller and weighs about a pound more. But don’t let the “XL” give you the wrong impression. This is still a tabletop fire pit. It differs from the regular Mesa only in size and capacity. The XL holds up to 1,000 grams of pellets compared to the original’s 285-gram capacity, it has a burn radius of two to three feet and its burn time is 45 – 60 minutes rather than 30 – 45 minutes.

If the Mesa seems just a little too dainty for your needs, then you’ll likely be happy with the Mesa XL.

Solo Stove Ranger 2.0

• Diameter: 15 inches
• Height: 12.5 inches
• Weight: 15 pounds

Moving off of the table and onto the ground, we have the Solo Stove Ranger. Solo Stove positions the Ranger as its most portable full-size fire pit, as it’s large enough for a small group hangout but still light and small enough for a single person to easily tote around. As one of Solo Stove’s full-size fire pits, it features the brand’s easy-to-clean removable ash pan and can only be fueled with wood (unless you spring for the pellet adapter). It also includes a carrying case and works with a wider range of accessories than the Mesa, such as the Heat Deflector and Pi Fire Pizza Oven attachment (read our review of the Pi Fire here).

Solo Stove Bonfire 2.0

• Diameter: 19.5 inches
• Height: 14 inches
• Weight: 23.3 pounds

The Bonfire is Solo Stove’s flagship fire pit, and its most popular. In other words, it’s the right choice for most people. It’s large enough to live in your backyard at nearly 20 inches across, but also still light enough to take to the beach or campsite (like the Ranger, it includes a carrying case). It provides plenty of heat for a crowd and features all of the brand’s latest technology, like the removable ash pan. It also, given its popularity, has compatibility with just about every Solo Stove accessory.

Solo Stove Yukon 2.0

• Diameter: 27 inches
• Height: 17 inches
• Weight: 41.6 pounds

The Yukon is the fire pit for party people. It’s by far Solo Stove’s largest, measuring well over two feet across and weighing nearly 20 pounds more than the Bonfire. This means that it’s best suited to live permanently on your patio or in your backyard. Though it is technically portable, there’s no included carrying case and it’s awkwardly shaped and fairly heavy, so you’ll want help moving it. Since it’s the largest, the Yukon of course throws off the most heat of any Solo Stove fire pit, making it best suited for larger spaces and bigger crowds. Like the Bonfire and Ranger, the Yukon is compatible with a number of Solo Stove accessories.

Requiring only a few parts, this simple and effective setup provides stable images for detailed views of the night sky.

“This is the best binocular mount I’ve ever used!” Those were the first words out of my mouth as I came indoors from testing my just-completed binocular rig.

It’s rare that I build something that actually works better than expected, but finally I’d come up with a binocular mount that provides steady views, is easy to use, very portable, and simple to build. It was a good night.

I’ve written many times about the virtues of mounted binoculars. Indeed, a good number of the objects I’ve observed over the years need steady views to be to be seen at all. I’ve used (and built) many binocular mounts, but most of them have been either expensive, bulky, or, to some extent, awkward to use. The mount shown here has none of those shortcomings and is ideally suited to observers like me who prefers to view the sky while seated or reclining in a deck chair.

The main components of my bino mount can be obtained at your local camera store, but if you’re a photographer, it’s likely you already own many of them. You’ll need a standard camera tripod with a pan/tilt head (the sturdier, the better), a ball head, and a monopod. I used an inexpensive monopod made by Slik and similar ones can be had for around $20. The ball head doesn’t need to be an expensive, heavy duty model unless your binoculars are particularly weighty. Mine is a Stroboframe FLM compact ball head, which typically retails in the $25 range. A nice feature of this unit is that a single knob locks all motions. You’ll also need a right-angle binocular-to-tripod adapter. Avoid the flimsy plastic ones that often come with budget binoculars.

The final component of my bino-mount assembly is the part you make: the bracket that mates the monopod to the tripod head. As ATM projects go, it doesn’t get much easier than this. Only a handful of hardware store parts are needed and none of the dimensions are especially critical.

Shown here are the various pieces of the tripod mounting bracket before assembly.

You’ll need to round up a 2½-inch by 5-inch length of ¾-inch plywood, a ¼-20 threaded insert (a T-nut will also work with a minor modification), a short length of flexible plastic tubing (automotive vacuum hose works well), and a U-bolt. The size of the U-bolt will depend on the diameter of the monopod section you’re going to clamp in the bracket. I recommend using the first segment that telescopes out of the monopod’s body, which measures ¾ inches with my Slik.

Begin construction by cutting a your length of plywood in half so that you have two 2½-inch square pieces — one will be used for the mounting block, the other will form a cradle for the monopod. In the center of one piece, drill a hole that corresponds to the diameter of the monopod section to be cradled. Next, cut that piece in half and set aside.

Turning to the second plywood part, mark the center and drill the hole to accommodate the threaded insert. Screw in the insert until it’s flush with the underside of the block. Next, drill two holes for the U-bolt. Make these a bit bigger than needed to avoid having the bolt’s threads bind on the wood block. You’ll also have to enlarge these holes on the underside so that the U-bolt nuts are recessed. You’ll also probably find that the threaded sections of the U-bolt will have to be shortened with a hacksaw so that they didn’t protrude beyond the surface of the plywood. Paul Oppenheim wrote in with a helpful tip, suggesting, “thread the nuts on first! After you’ve cut the legs, gently back the nuts off the legs, and you will have repaired any thread damage the hacksawing might have caused.”

Finally, slip a short length of tubing onto the U-bolt to prevent it from marring the finish of your monopod.

This view shows the underside of the bracket after assembly, but before painting. Note the recessed holes that accommodate the nuts for the U-bolt.

The remaining work basically consists of affixing (with wood screws and glue) the cradle halves to the mounting block, as shown in the photo above. Give the wood a waterproof finish to protect it from the elements, and let it dry. Now it’s time to assemble the mount. Begin by laying the monopod in the cradle so that the bottom of the thickest section abuts the top of the bracket. Next, slip on the U-bolt and tighten the nuts just enough that the monopod won’t rotate. Attach this to your tripod via the threaded insert, mount your binoculars, and you’re done . . . almost.

Here the mount is fully assembled before painting, just to make sure everything fits properly.

It’s likely the assembled mount will be considerably out of balance and that you’ll need to counter the weight of the binoculars. I made a counterweight from of a plastic peanut-butter jar filled with coins. I simply slide the foot of the monopod through a hole in the lid into a wooden disk in the bottom of the jar. The rubber foot of the monopod seats in a hole drilled part way through the wooden disk. A hose clamp attached to the monopod prevents the lid from sliding down. I filled the jar with all the loose change I had lying around (look under your sofa cushions if you’re a few ounces short), then screwed the jar onto the lid. The nifty thing about this counterweight is that you can adjust it by simply extending the monopod until the balance feels right.

The mount’s penny-ante counterweight (left) and (right) two important purchased items: a tripod ball head and right-angle binocular adapter.

After my original article describing this mount appeared in Sky&Telescope, Richard Frederick wrote to say that he’d found a way to make the mount without having to actually build anything. Instead of making a tripod-mounting bracket, he bought a Interfit tripod clamp. (Bogen also makes a similar unit.) So, if you’d rather spend $25 than the time it takes to make the part described above, you actually can put together my mount with off-the-shelf-parts.

To use the bino mount, leave the tripod head lightly clamped — once you’ve adjusted the counterweight, the binoculars won’t move on their own. Loosen the ball head and aim the binoculars freehand — as if they weren’t mounted at all. Once you’ve swept up your target, lock the ball head, and enjoy the view — the binoculars will seem to float in front of your eyes. And because the motions of the mount have so many degrees of freedom, you’ll find that you can comfortably view a huge swath of sky from one position. Indeed, on most nights, I never move my lounge chair at all. By adjusting my recliner, I can scan from the horizon to the zenith and a generous amount east and west. This really is the best mount I’ve used.

Soon after completing this project, I built a second mount that dispenses with the monopod and allows me to mount two binoculars simultaneously, one at either end of a length of aluminum tubing This way I can readily compare views in my 10×50s and 15×70s, for example. With this configuration, one binocular serves as the counterweight for the other. This two-headed contraption consists of a 48-inch-long piece of 1¼-diameter aluminum tubing in place of a monopod. Into either end of the tubing, I glued a short length of 1¹̷₈ -inch-diameter hardwood doweling with a ¼-20 anchor bolt screwed into it to serve as mounting stud for the ball head. In use this bino mount works the same way as the original monopod version.

With either binocular mount you’ll have the means to get steady views of the night sky, without the expense of a commercial unit or resorting to image-stabilized binoculars. Once you’ve tried using your binos this way, you may never use them unmounted again.

Did you find this article interesting or helpful? If so, consider using this link the next time you shop at Amazon.com. Better yet, bookmark it for future use. Thanks to Amazon’s associates program, doing so costs you nothing yet helps keep this site up and running. Thanks!

(This article is an updated and expanded version of one that appeared in the August 2010 issue of Sky&Telescope)

If you have decided that shooting sports are now your thing or just want to purchase a handgun for self-defense, you must have already googled something like gun store near me or where to buy ammunition. Well, the whole topic of firearms possession is complex. But while ammo is not as regulated as firearms, you still must know federal and local ammo-related laws to avoid legal consequences. That is why you should read on, as this article provides an in-depth examination of the several legal issues surrounding ammunition. But before we begin, a little disclaimer – we are not lawyers, and the information given here is only for reference. Always check current gun and ammo legislation and consult professionals.

Federal Ammunition Laws

Ammo regulation is a topic that has gained significant attention in recent years, particularly due to the increasing frequency of mass shootings in the United States. While guns are subject to federal restrictions, ammunition sales are generally less regulated. This disparity in oversight has led to concerns about how easy it is for individuals to stockpile large amounts of ammunition without raising any red flags.

Many laws apply only to guns and not to ammunition. For instance, firearms sellers must generally be licensed as dealers and retain records of gun sales, providing a paper trail that can be used by law enforcement to trace firearms involved in criminal activity. There are no such requirements for businesses selling ammo.

Another example is the requirement for people to show ID and pass a background check, intended to prevent those with criminal records or other disqualifying factors from obtaining firearms. However, typically, no such checks are required for ammunition purchases.

Furthermore, there is a law saying that handgun sales across state lines must be processed by a local seller, which helps maintain some level of control over the distribution of firearms. In contrast, ammunition can often be purchased online or across state lines with relative ease.

Lastly, high-volume handgun sales are regulated to prevent individuals from buying multiple guns at once. Ammunition, however, is not subject to the same restrictions, allowing people to amass significant stockpiles without any legal barriers.

As of 2024, federal ammo regulations mainly focus on banning sales to specific individuals and forbidding the production, import, and sale of armor-piercing rounds. Although federal law stops certain buyer categories from acquiring ammunition, it doesn’t mandate sellers to perform background checks, leaving room for prohibited purchasers to slip through.

By the way, there is a common misconception regarding green-tip 5.56 NATO ammunition closely related to .223 ammo. It has often been mistakenly labeled as armor-piercing due to its steel penetrator tip. However, it does not meet the legal definition of armor-piercing ammunition. Back in time, the purpose of the green tip was to signify a steel penetrator within the bullet (instead of a plain lead core), intended to enhance its performance against hard targets.

California & Other State Ammunition Laws

State laws regulating ammunition sales vary across the US, with some states implementing stricter regulations than others. For instance, six states – New York, California, Connecticut, Illinois, Massachusetts, and New Jersey – have enacted laws regulating ammo sales and requiring background checks. Other states impose ammunition access restrictions through age limits or by banning specific categories of potentially dangerous individuals.

Let us consider the laws of these six states. New York and California mandate point-of-sale background checks for ammunition purchases, ensuring that only eligible individuals can buy ammo. In Connecticut, state agencies issue ammunition certificates, which must be renewed every five years. Illinois takes a slightly different approach by requiring residents to obtain a Firearm Owners Identification (FOID) card to legally purchase or possess firearms and ammunition. Massachusetts necessitates residents to obtain a firearm permit or license to purchase ammunition. Lastly, New Jersey enforces strict regulations on handgun ammunition purchases. Residents are typically prohibited from acquiring any handgun ammo unless they present a valid firearm purchaser identification card or a permit to purchase a handgun.

Ammunition Serialization

For several years now, gun reform advocates have been discussing the implementation of ammunition serialization technology as a potential solution to improve firearm regulations. Ammunition serialization is a process that involves assigning unique identification numbers to individual cartridges, providing a traceable link between the ammunition and its point of sale. This system can help law enforcement track the origin of bullets used in criminal activities, potentially leading to the identification of firearms and their owners. By marking each round with a serial number, either on the casing or the bullet itself, investigators can more efficiently connect recovered ammunition to specific purchases, sellers, and buyers. While ammunition serialization has the potential to significantly improve the crime-solving process, it also raises concerns about logistical challenges, increased manufacturing costs, and potential privacy issues for lawful gun owners. Despite these concerns, the concept of ammunition serialization continues to be explored.

In terms of the biggest tuna ever caught, you are looking at a monster that weighed 1496 pounds. The beast was a bluefin tuna and was nabbed off the coast of Nova Scotia. How big do tuna get? Well, they grow huge, but the maximum size will depend on the species of tuna and the Gulf of Mexico is a haven for tuna of all sizes. [1]

Tuna Species of the Gulf of Mexico

Tuna fish size ranges from the smaller Tunny and Skipjack to the massive bluefin and yellowfin.

Yellowfin – Fish with Baitfish, Squid, or Crustaceans

Yellowfin are found the world over, they are one of the most targeted tuna with around 12 million pounds caught by rod and reel around the world. [2] Yellowfin can grow to six feet in length and over 400 pounds.

Bluefin – The Biggest of the Tuna Species

If you are looking for a monster game fish, the bluefin tuna is likely a good target. They can grow to 13 feet in length and weigh upwards of 2000 pounds. That’s a ton of fish that is as long as two NBA basketball players. The record for a pole-caught blue tuna is 1495 pounds.

Blackfin – A Smaller, but Fun Tuna

Blackfin tuna reach a size of 39 inches and a weight of 46 pounds. Most anglers would rather target yellowfin or the elusive bluefin tuna, but the blackfin tuna is a strong fighter and very good to eat.

Little Tunny – A smaller variety with Trophies in the 30-37 pound range

Little tunny is a schooling tuna that feed on baitfish and crustaceans. You find them in open waters and along the coastal waters. Fishing little tunny is a big sport because while they are smaller tuna, they are strong, and they fight hard. You can also use little tunny as live or cut bait for bigger tuna and shark fishing. [3]

Skipjack – A Trophy is 25-33 Pounds

Skipjack is similar to little tunny in that they stay small and are schooling fish. You can target them with herring or baitfish, and you will find them in coastal and deep waters off of Florida and around the Gulf. These are not the biggest tuna, but they put up an amazing fight. Even at 20 pounds, they will bend the rod and fight.

Albacore – Thunnus alalunga – A True Tuna

A big albacore is going to be around 39 inches though as a species they can reach lengths upward of 51 inches. Unlike many tuna, you find albacore in schools without other species of tuna. By nature, these are highly migratory fish, and finding them may mean focusing on baitfish. April and May and Late fall are the best times to target albacore. [4]

Bigeye – A bigger version of Yellowfin

A trophy bigeye tuna will approach 5 feet in length. According to Sport Fishing Magazine, the record for bigeye tuna is 392 pounds six ounces. Bigeye are often found near the surface where they feed on baitfish, but they can also be deep at over 800 feet. [5]

Some of The Top Tuna Species Caught in the Gulf of Mexico

The holy grail of tuna fishing is the bluefin tuna. They are elusive fish that seem to be on everyone’s bucket list of big fish. In truth, the blackfin is likely to be a bigger fish. Yellowfin are another top tuna species for anglers who want to battle big fish.

In comparison, the world record for yellowfin is 388 pounds 12 ounces but in Florida, the record is 240 pounds. [6] According to American Oceans, the biggest bluefin tuna is 1496 pounds. [7] That is a massive difference in size which is why almost everyone wants to battle a bluefin. Our list of top tuna includes:

• Bluefin
• Blackfin
• Yellowfin
• Bigeye

What’s the biggest tuna ever caught?

The biggest tuna ever caught was the 1496-pound bluefin. In the Gulf of Mexico, the biggest tuna ever caught is thought to be the bluefin tuna caught by Ron Roland off the coast of Louisiana. It topped the scales at 1152 pounds. Both of these catches tell us why bluefin tuna is on everyone’s fishing bucket list. [8]

Conclusion

If you are wondering how to catch a tuna, the options are fairly simple – deep sea fishing while trolling with live or cut bait. One of the problems with fishing tuna in the Gulf is that the geologic structure of the Gulf is diverse. You need a captain that understands the topography of the deep water and the location of deep structures.

Tuna – all species – are highly migratory. So, fishing them requires that you know where they are right now as their location is not static. Many species of tuna range from the Atlantic Ocean to the Pacific Ocean and elsewhere in the tropical waters of the globe. Even smaller species of tuna or small fish will put you on par with some of the best game fish on the globe.

Silver salmon, for example, is one of the most sought-after fighting fish around, and they weigh around 20 pounds. They do not compare in fight and strength to a small tuna. That is why tuna fishing is so popular. Not only do they fight hard, but they also taste good too.

While tuna is available all year long, April and May are great months to target tuna off the coast of Florida. November and December can also be peak months for tuna fishing in the Gulf while the summer months are busy for tuna anglers. What do you do between April and November? You fish for tuna or other big fish. A charter boat is probably going to be one of the best options you have to fish tuna during their peak season and also during the off-season.