Classic lever-action deer rifles are undoubtedly cool. My first was a Winchester Model 94AE XTR in .30-30 Winchester, that timeless rimmed cartridge that has accounted for innumerable amounts of game. It was a gift from my father for my 15th birthday, and—at least to the young man who received it—marked a passage into manhood. I’d be hunting deer with my father the following season, and that alone was a dream come true. Like any inquisitive young man, I delved into the history and nostalgia of the .30 WCF, or .30-30, and the many names it has carried, and was honored to take my first deer—a whitetail doe—with the same cartridge that my father took his.

I’m old enough to remember when the lever guns were still highly popular among deer hunters, and my own rifle, as shiny and unproven as it was in comparison to the older gents’ worn pieces with bluing rubbed off and stock finish dulled by the elements, was a source of pride. In the deer camp mix of Savage 99s, Marlin 336s and a selection of Winchesters, many cartridges were represented, including some rarities like the .348 Winchester, but the main rivals were the .30-30 Winchester and the .35 Remington. As a matter of fact, that may have been the first campfire cartridge argument I was privy to; if only those gentlemen would’ve realized the fire they’d kindled. Let’s take a look at the two champions of the deer woods, and perhaps finish the conversation started three-plus decades ago.

The .30-30 Winchester has the unique claim of being the first cartridge designed to run on both black powder and the revolutionary smokeless powder. Deriving its name from a combination of the caliber and the powder charge (.30 caliber, 30 grains of powder) the .30-30 was introduced in 1895, in the John Browning-designed Model 1894 Winchester. At the time, .32 caliber cartridges were actually more popular than were the .30s, but it didn’t take long for the .30-30 to establish itself as a perfect deer hunting cartridge. Driving a 160-grain jacketed bullet to a velocity of just over 2300 fps, it represented a fantastic hunting cartridge for its time. Soon after, the classic 150- and 170-grain loads took root, and due to the tubular magazines of so many popular rifles, round nose bullets were employed. It has accounted for almost all, if not all, North American game species, and the famous African PH Wally Johnson used one to kill lions in his early years in Mozambique.

The .35 Remington was released—as one of a quartet of rimless cartridges from Remington—in 1906; it is a rimless affair designed for their Model 8 autoloading rifle. Alongside the .25, .30 and .32 Remington, the .35 would be the only survivor. While it has been chambered in many different rifles, the combination of the Marlin Model 336 rifle and the .35 Remington has achieved true classic status, in spite of the fact that the rifle was introduced 1948. This combination offers an affordable, hard-hitting rig which is capable of taking most common game animals, albeit at short range. The .35 Remington uses the 180- and 200-grain .358″caliber bullets, and while light-for-caliber, they are effective at the ranges a .35 Remington is used, which is usually inside of 150 yards.

Which is the more useful cartridge? Of the two, which serves the hunter better? Traditionally, the tubular magazines of the popular lever-rifles restricted the cartridges to using round or flat-point bullets, to avoid the possibility of magazine detonation, should a pointed spitzer bullet hit the primer of the cartridge ahead of it in the magazine. The exception to that rule is Hornady’s LeveRevolution ammo line, which uses a pliable tip on a spitzer bullet to afford a much flatter trajectory in both cartridges. With the traditional loads, the .30-30 will drive its 150- and 170-grain bullets to a muzzle velocity of 2400 and 2250 fps respectively, while the .35 Remington launches its 180- and 200-grain bullets at 2100 and 2080 fps. Both generate between 1,800 and 1,900 ft.-lbs. of muzzle energy with traditional loads, and the hot-rod LeveRevolution will certainly offer an improvement in ballistic figures, but the advancements are parallel between the two cartridges.

I feel the cartridges offer very similar performance, at similar ranges. If you were to give the edge to the larger frontal diameter of the .35 Remington—.358″ versus .308″—you would have a valid point. If you were to vote for the .30-30 Winchester based on its higher Sectional Density values—the 170-grain .308 bullet has an S.D. figure of .256 versus the 200-grain .358’s S.D. figure of .223e—I’d have to agree with you as well. Personally, at the ranges that these cartridges are used, I could easily call it a draw. Both come in light, handy rifles that are a pleasure to carry in the forested mountains and wooded areas where these guns shine. But, there is an issue: It seems the .35 Remington ammunition has begun to fade away. There seem to be fewer choices each year, and that’s a shame.

I give the edge to the apparently timeless .30-30 Winchester for the availability alone; there are dozens of factory loads to choose from, and being .30-caliber is never a bad thing. It’s just about perfect for the deer woods, and you can easily teach a youngster the art of shooting an iron-sighted lever rifle without punishing recoil. It will handle black bears and feral hogs—as will the .35 Remington—but sourcing ammunition is far easier if you own a good old thutty-thutty. My own 94 Winchester is coming out of the safe this year, freshly adorned with a new front sight and rear peep from Skinner Sights; even middle-aged eyes get a new lease on life, and I’m having lots of fun from the bench with my old friend.

If you shoot a .35 Remington, I see no reason whatsoever to stop doing so, just make sure you keep an ample supply of whatever load your rifle likes. However, even after 123 years on the market, the .30-30 Winchester remains the king of medium caliber lever guns; it has been in the top ten selling cartridges for Federal Premium to this day, and with millions of rifles out there chambered for the cartridge, that will probably be a fact decades from now.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

Whether you’re narrowing the gap between food and your table, connecting more deeply to nature through conservation, or extending your hunting seasons with archery gear, you’ll never run short of great reasons to try bowhunting.

Gearing up to bowhunt is exciting, and it’s much simpler than most people realize. To help you better understand what you need for your first bowhunt, let’s review 10 basic bowhunting tools.

1. Compound Bow

Obviously, a bow of some sort is your most basic need. You have three bow types to choose from, starting with the compound bow. These bows are nearly standard issue for bowhunting today. They’re easier to shoot than traditional recurves or longbows, but require more practice than crossbows to become proficient. Modern compound bows are efficient and don’t require extraordinary strength to draw and shoot.

When selecting a bow, it’s best to seek help from an expert at an archery shop. Hunting bows are not “one size fits all.” Make sure you choose a bow that matches your fit and bowhunting needs. You must become as accurate as possible to enjoy shooting and be lethal in the woods.

2. Traditional Bow

Traditional recurves or longbows are bowhunting’s simplest weapons. These bows have been used thousands of years, and are more effective today than when our ancestors carried them for hunting and self-protection. Shooting and harvesting game animals with these basic bows is also challenging and rewarding.

Drawing a traditional bow that’s powerful enough to take game animals like deer, elk or bears requires more strength than drawing a compound bow. However, their simplicity makes them the most affordable option for prospective bowhunters with tight budgets.

3. Crossbow

Until recently crossbow hunting was mostly reserved for senior citizens, or people with injuries or disabilities. Today, most states and Canadian providences allow crossbows during part or all of the regular archery season. Crossbows reduce the learning curve needed to shoot arrows proficiently. Most crossbow archers prefer aiming with a scope like those used on hunting rifles. This makes crossbows fairly easy to shoot accurately, even for those with little or no experience. Crossbow prices vary, but they’re similar to prices for compound bows.

4. Arrows

Once you’ve selected a hunting bow, it’s time to pick your arrows. Arrows must be matched to your bow’s draw weight and draw length. To ensure you make the right choice, consult experts at the nearest archery store.

5. Broadheads

For most target practice, archers shoot arrows tipped with practice points. When it’s time to prepare for bowhunting season, swap your field points for broadheads. Broadheads wield razor-sharp blades that cut through a game animal’s hide, flesh and organs to cause quick, ethical harvesting. Broadheads come in nearly infinite options, but some might be better suited than others for the quarry you hunt and the bow you shoot. Again, ask an expert for advice to ensure your broadhead matches your setup.

6. Bow Accessories

This is a broad category. The accessories you need depend on your bow and your budget. Those shooting a compound, crossbow or traditional bow must have a hooded quiver to carry their broadhead-tipped arrows. Most hunting quivers attach to the bow or crossbow, but some bowhunters prefer quivers they carry over a shoulder or attach to a pack.

Next, arrow-rests hold the arrow in place while drawing and shooting. The options are many, and the styles vary by bow and personal preference. Release-aids attach the bowhunter to the bowstring, and feature a trigger that releases the arrow.

Release-aids are standard gear for shooting a compound bow. Those shooting traditional bows use a shooting glove or finger tab, which protects the shooter’s fingers when drawing the bowstring and releasing the shot.

A bow-sight is a reference point for aiming, and typically has one to six pins the shooter adjusts individually to precise distances. You’ll find plenty of options for bow-sights, and the archery store’s pros can help you find your best option. Even so, a sight is not absolutely necessary for some bowhunters, especially those shooting traditional gear. However, they’re a great training aid when learning archery, and deliver consistent accuracy.

Bowhunters who use crossbows require fewer accessories than those using vertical bows. Crossbows are commonly sold in kits with everything needed to start shooting, but many options exist if you dislike what’s included.

Scopes, for example, come in various magnifications, and at highly varying price points. Be sure to consult an archery pro to determine which scope meets your hunting needs.

Crossbow hunters also require a cocking device, which helps them draw the bow and lock its string into the fire-ready position. A simple string-cocker uses a rope and pulleys for this task, but some crossbows feature a hand crank that makes the job nearly effortless.

7. Clothing

Bowhunting and camouflage go hand in hand. Camo helps bowhunters remain unseen so unsuspecting game approaches within range. Matching camo to your hunting area can feel overwhelming, but experts at an archery or sporting-goods store can help.

No matter what you choose, be sure to dress in layers. Bowhunting can require bouts of vigorous, sweat-pumping activity followed by long stretches of wet, chilly waiting in harsh elements. Layering helps you stay comfortable by adding or removing layers to match the situation.

8. Backpack

You’ll need a hunting pack to carry your gear, water, snacks, licenses and hunting gear. If you plan to hunt where you’ll often hike long distances, consider a pack that can carry your bow. And if you hunt areas accessible only by foot, choose a pack that’s substantial enough to help pack out your animal.

9. Boots

Veteran bowhunters put good boots at or near the top of their gear list. Whether you’re sitting, still-hunting or spot-and-stalk hunting, boots are vital to consistent success. If you regularly hike a mile or more to reach hunting sites, your boots must offer comfort and support. Stand-hunters, meanwhile, usually place priority on boots that keep their feet warm all day.

10. Ground Blind/Treestand

Stand-hunters hide out and wait in treestands or ground blinds for animals to come into bow range. Ground blinds are essentially small, portable camouflage tents that set up where you hunt. Treestands conceal bowhunters by elevating them above the animal’s normal view. Both are excellent options. If you bowhunt from a treestand – the most common method for bowhunting deer – never leave the ground without wearing a full-body safety harness to prevent a fall.

No matter your hunting style, also carry binoculars and a rangefinder. Binoculars help you search the landscape for game and identify it. And rangefinders quickly pinpoint the distance to your quarry.

Did you get all that? No matter which bow you choose or the style of bowhunting you try, expect an adrenaline rush like you’ve never experienced when that deer, bear, elk or turkey walks into range. And to ensure you’re ready for that big moment, start scouting now to find a nearby bowhunting shop to help guide you along.

By: Tyler Ridenour of Bowhunting360.com

By Wade Bourne

For some waterfowlers, the words “public hunting area” conjure up images of crowded boat ramps, fierce competition for spots, and incessant calling. Others shrug off these annoyances and point to the bountiful waterfowl hunting opportunities available on national wildlife refuges, wildlife management areas, and other public lands. Both perceptions are correct to some extent.

Managed public lands typically attract plenty of ducks. They also draw large numbers of hunters. Here are seven surefire strategies to help you bag more birds on these come-one, come-all waterfowl hunting areas:

1. Locate the Best Spots

It’s a fact: certain spots are simply duck magnets. For a variety of reasons, some places on public hunting areas consistently attract more birds than others. Hunters who learn the best spots and gain access to them will experience more consistent shooting than those who don’t.

Here’s an example. Years ago my partners and I were hunting on a public wade-in area in west Tennessee. All waterfowlers were assigned to numbered sites on a first-come, first-served basis. Through experience, we learned about a secluded spot in the back of the area that was a veritable honey hole. It was just one of those places where mallards and other puddle ducks wanted to be.

Other hunters also knew this was a good spot, so we made it a point to be the first to get there whenever we hunted it. We would get up early enough to arrive at the blind an hour before legal shooting time, and wait in the dark. Hunters who showed up later had to go elsewhere. I don’t ever remember getting to this spot an hour early and finding someone else already there.

The takeaway: ferret out the good spots. Ask the area manager or a local conservation officer to point out the places that consistently draw more birds. Check harvest reports for blinds or specific units that have the best track record. Scout during nonhunting periods to learn where the ducks want to be.

Blinds on some public hunting areas are allocated ahead of time via drawings. Other blinds and sites are assigned on a daily basis. In either case, hunters who know the best spots can make informed selections when their turn to choose comes around. Learn where the best places are and go all out to claim them, and you’ll bag more ducks.

2. Hunt When Others Don’t

As a rule, the less pressure a public area receives the better the hunting will be. This is why hunting on weekdays is usually more productive than hunting on weekends, when more waterfowlers go afield. Other good times to hunt include holidays, opening days of hunting seasons for other game, and when extreme weather keeps many hunters indoors.

Here’s another scenario. If a popular local wildlife management area (WMA) is gunned heavily on weekends and rested on Monday and Tuesday, hunt it on Wednesday. Your chance for a good hunt should be higher on the first day the area reopens to hunting.

Certain times of day might also offer less competition and better hunting. Ducks often become programmed by hunting pressure. If pressure is heavy early but slackens as the morning wears on, the ducks might start feeding later in the day, when the disturbance from hunters is lower.

The point is, be alert for any opportunity to hunt on public areas when other hunters aren’t likely to show up. If you’re there when others aren’t, your odds of enjoying a good shoot will increase.

3. Hunt Where Others Can’t

He who works the hardest often fares the best. True of life in general, this old adage also applies to duck hunting. Here’s a shining example. Several years ago I wrote an article about two hunters from Little Rock, Arkansas, who frequented the state’s renowned Bayou Meto WMA. Bayou Meto’s flooded timber draws a lot of birds, but this area also has a reputation for drawing big crowds.

These two hunters made a habit of venturing into the most inaccessible reaches of Bayou Meto. They would motor as long as they had sufficient water to float their boat. Then they would climb out and start wading into thick, brushy woods through water that was only a few inches deep. This was where mallards liked to go to escape the hunting pressure in more popular-and more accessible-areas.

By working hard, these two hunters left the crowds behind and went where the ducks wanted to be. They outthought and outworked their competitors, and in doing so they consistently bagged limits of greenheads.

To increase your chances of success, hunt outside the box. Seek out and explore places that are hard to reach. Study maps and aerial photographs to find spots where ducks may go to escape hunting pressure. Learn to use a GPS-an invaluable tool for exploring backcountry. Consider hiking and wading in or using a Go-Devil boat and motor, a canoe, a kayak, or any other means of accessing new territory.

4. Hunt Multiple Areas

Don’t put all your eggs in one basket. Many states have multiple WMAs and refuges in close proximity to each other. As weather and habitat conditions change, waterfowl will move around from one place to another to take advantage of new opportunities to feed and rest. At times, ducks trade between these areas like Saturday-morning yard-sale shoppers. Hunters who keep up with the ducks’ movements and follow them can stay in the birds, while those who stick to one spot are likely to experience hit-or-miss shooting.

Several years ago, a friend and I towed a boat-blind rig to Kansas. We scouted several small public reservoirs and found few ducks, before finally hitting the jackpot. One lake was hosting several thousand mallards. These birds were flying out at dawn to feed in surrounding grainfields, then returning to the lake to rest in midmorning. My partner and I bagged easy limits of close-working greenheads from the same spot four days in a row. We did so because we were mobile. We kept moving and looking until we found the ducks.

Don’t be a homesteader. Instead, draw up an itinerary that includes several public hunting areas within a specified region, and keep moving and prospecting until you find ducks.

5. Stand Out in a Crowd

On public hunting areas, tactics that grab the attention of working ducks are often more effective in tolling birds than a more passive approach. Nowhere is this more evident than on Tennessee’s Reelfoot Lake. In a setting where blinds are close together and many hunters vie for the same ducks, professional guides often put out permanent spreads that sometimes number in the thousands of decoys. They also employ multiple wing-spinners and other motion decoys. And they are expert practitioners of Reelfoot’s legendary aggressive calling style-loud, continuous, and demanding. Sometimes several callers work together to capture and hold ducks’ attention as the birds circle and descend into shooting range.

This is not to imply that you have to put out as big a spread, add as much motion, or call as loud as a Reelfoot guide when you hunt on public land. Each situation is different. But you will gain an edge over the competition if you set out more decoys than the hunters around you, add some motion to your spread, and use insistent calling to attract the attention of passing ducks.

You can grab the attention of ducks in other ways as well. Make your decoys more noticeable by adding white to your spread in the form of pintail or spoonbill drakes. Or paint a few decoys flat black. These stark colors are more visible at long distances than drab-colored or faded decoys. Sometimes flagging draws long-range ducks as well as it does geese. Do whatever you have to do to get noticed, and you’ll have better odds of bringing birds into your decoys.

6. Hunt in Favorable Weather

Waterfowlers who time their hunts to coincide with favorable weather conditions can stack the odds in their favor. Frontal passages, heavy rain, snow, cold snaps, rapid thaws, fog, high winds, and other weather conditions can cause ducks and geese to move and be more eager to work to decoys and calls.

You should always keep an eye on the weather and plan to hunt when new birds are likely to arrive, or when “local” birds are more prone to move around. On classic waterfowling days, the migration is in full swing and new arrivals often work with reckless abandon. Exceptional gunning can also be had when a weather change causes ducks that are already in the area to become more active.

Here’s a good example. A friend of mine hunted on a WMA in Missouri a few years back. Nighttime temperatures froze the flooded cornfields where ducks had been feeding, but by midmorning the temperatures rose into the 40s and melted the ice. The ducks responded by feeding later in the morning. My friend observed this pattern and began hunting between 9 a.m. and 10 a.m. By then, other hunters were giving up and heading in, but my buddy was ready when the ducks showed up for brunch. He took a full limit of greenheads several days in a row.

Public waterfowling can go from slow to red hot when weather changes move the birds. Hunters who understand this and adapt accordingly can increase their chances for a banner shoot.

7. Remain Flexible

Finally, if the ducks aren’t coming your way, try something different. Change locations, calling styles, decoy strategies, and so on. Keep your options open, and remain adaptable and mobile.

When hunting public areas, it’s crucial to prepare for several options so you can quickly switch to a backup plan if you need to. If plan A isn’t working, go to plan B, and then to plan C.

When it comes to public waterfowl hunting, dealing with other duck hunters can be just as important as dealing with the ducks. The Golden Rule should always apply. If hunters would be considerate of each other and treat others the way they’d like to be treated, hunting on public areas would be a lot more enjoyable and productive for everybody. That’s a fact that’s as true as it is simple.

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If you’re hiking with wide feet, you know what I mean when I talk about smiling feet!

Smile, purr, send little heart emojis into the air, it’s all good when it comes to finally finding a pair of hiking boots that fit your wide feet.

So let’s get to it!

Just so you know, I recommend the brands and stores that deliver the goods. Some of my links go to trusted affiliates, meaning Hiking For Her earns a small percentage of your purchase price.

• It costs you nothing extra to support this website while hiking with wide feet 😉

Best brands for hiking with wide feet

As a hiker, I have my personal favorites that I know work for my quirky ultra wide feet.

I also follow all the hiker chatter on line, so I learn about hiking boot brands reported to work well for hiker’s wide feet.

Although I try hard to give you reliable information, please be flexible with these recommendations.

Your wide feet are unique, and you will have to experiment with the brands I’m about to recommend.

Ready?

Here are my two lists of wide width hiking boot brands you should look at.

My personal listof hiking footwear that accommodate wide feet

These brands have been on my wide feet for decades:

• Keen
• Salomon
• Zamberlan
• Merrell

My researched list of wide width hiking boots that are reported to work well

These brands perform well for other hikers with wide feet, based on top selling statistics and trail reports:

• Oboz
• LaSportiva
• Altra
• Vasque

General tips for shopping for wide boots

Before you dig into particular brands, it’s important to realize that every outdoor brand becomes known for certain important features.

The brands of hiking footwear I’m sharing here have wide width options along with their other options, or are built with a wider toe box to begin with.

But beyond brand names, it is important to know exactly how to shop for wide width trailwear.

• Drop down to my tips before you buy a pair.

And if this is your first pair of hiking boots, read my detailed tips for selecting the right pair here.

Now let’s take a tour of those brands!

Why Keen boots make hiking with wide feeta comfortable experience

Here’s the whole story in one diagram:

And here’s the boot you will find on my feet for day hikes on established trails, wearing a day pack.

KEEN Targhee III Waterproof Mid Hiking Boots

You can read my detailed Targhee review here.

Salomon hiking boots if you arehiking with wide feet

These are the boots I use when I need good traction and ankle support, on day hikes as well as multiday trips.

Salomon X Ultra 4 Mid GORE-TEX Hiking Boots

Note that these boots have a high cut. If you don’t want your ankles surrounded and protected, consider these Salomon trail shoes instead.

They are what I wear for straightforward day hikes on non-rocky, dry to moderately muddy trails.

Salomon X Ultra 4 Low Hiking Shoes

Zamberlan hiking boots for wide feet

These boots are built for rugged use. And the price reflects that.

So only look at these if you’re going to be wearing them through tough conditions.

Zamberlans are on my feet when I do multiweek backcountry treks, because they stand up to water, rock, jagged trail debris, snakes, and more.

And while they are not labeled “wide width”, the toe box is plenty roomy for my wide feet.

They also receive rave reviews from hikers with toe problems, including hallux rigidus and arthritis.

Zamberlan Vioz GTX Hiking Boots

An important sizing note

I always go up one full size with this brand, to accommodate foot swelling and my two pairs of hiking socks.

In fact, the first time I bought a pair of Zamberlan hiking boots, I made the mistake of ordering my regular size. They were a bit snug :/

• So if you’re going to use sole inserts, or are at all concerned that your regular size might be too snug, order up one size.

Merrell trailwear whenhiking with wide feet

These are the trail shoes I wear when I want to go fast and light, with minimal weight on my back.

They give good traction and are quite comfortable.

Ordering up a half size gives you a good chance that you will enjoy roominess, if you have any doubt.

Also, I only wear one pair of socks with them, and never get blisters.

Merrell Moab 3 Waterproof Hiking Shoes

Oboz hiking boots in wide widths

These boots seem to run a bit small, so be sure to order up a size, and make certain you select the wide option.

Oboz Bridger Mid Waterproof Hiking Boots

LaSportiva boots for wide feet

These boots are ankle protectors, so choose them for trails that will fling roots, rocks and debris at you.

And the tread will impress you.

As with many European brands, they can run a bit narrow. You know what to do if you’re hiking with wide feet!

La Sportiva Ultra Raptor II Mid GTX Hiking Boots

Altra Lone Peak boots

These boots feature a wide foot bed, nice and roomy for your toes. They call it the “Footshape toe bed”, designed to allow your toes to relax and spread out naturally.

They run up to a size 12.

Altra Lone Peak Hiker 2 Hiking Boots

Tips for shoppingfor wide width trail footwear

There are many brands which have given hikers with wide feet good outcomes. And now you’re familiar with some of them.

Here are a few general tips for shopping for wide width hiking boots, to make your choice a bit easier. You want to be hiking with wide feet and a wide smile on your face, right?

Hiking boot reviews are gold mines of information

As with buying any hiking gear, read the reviews and cross check user experiences before trusting your feet to any one brand.

Pay close attention to how reviewers describe their feet.

• You want someone to mention a wide width.
• And if you’re lucky, they will also mention their arch height.

If in doubt, go up in size

If you have feet that are just a tad bit wider than “normal”, you might not have to worry about sizing.

But if you have truly wide feet, and have struggled with sizing before, order up a size or at least a half size.

And pay attention when you look at the boot, either on line or in the store.

• You want the “wide” version if the brand makes regular width as well.

Relax, it’s REI!

Because you are purchasing from REI Co-op, you can return the boots and try another size if they aren’t perfect the first time.

• More REI benefits here

Be prepared!

I don’t recommend that you pop into a gear store on a whim to try on wide width boots or trail shoes.

Go at the end of your day when your feet are at their maximum size.

And bring your own hiking socks, so you can get an exact feel for how wide the boots run.

• What’s that? You don’t use dedicated hiking socks? Read this!

If the lacing right out of the box seems weird on your feet, unlace them and try some other lacing techniques, like these.

Pro tip

Need insoles that fit wide hiking boots?

Embrace hiking with wide feet

Don’t let the width of your feet slow you down.

(Ha! A hobbit foot just flashed through my mind. Embrace the width!)

Take good care of your wide feet with my foot care tips for hikers.

BTW, If you’ve found other brands of footwear that makes hiking with wide feet a good experience for you, drop me a line here. I’ll add it to our list!

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Hiking With Wide Feet: Best Hiking Boots

It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about 200-pound alligator gar in a Texas reservoir, a 3-foot longnose in a Minnesota river, or a 5-pound shortnose in an Arkansas slough-they’re all first-class sportfish. They’re all willing biters, too, often revealing their location during summer by rolling on the surface to gulp air. They’re also powerful fighters who will launch their muscular armor-plated body into the air when hooked. The problem with gar is their tooth-filled mouth and habit of running long distances with a bait before swallowing it. This makes them difficult to hook and land with traditional rigs. But a handful of modified rigs will catch any species of gar wherever they swim.

Hooks

Gar lack any appreciable amount of flesh in their mouth, making hookups with large single hooks difficult. Small sharp treble hooks penetrate faster and the additional hook points increase your chance of a good set. Lip hook a baitfish with a #6 to #2 treble hook on a set or float rig. Gar often grab the bait sideways and slowly swim off. Wait until the fish stops and starts to swallow the bait. When he starts to run again, set the hook firmly. Quick-strike rigs and lures with multiple treble hooks increase your chance of a hookup without risking injury caused by swallowed hooks.

Snares

Wire snares like those used to catch rabbits may be the most effective gar rig of all. Make a snare by wrapping one end of a 2-foot piece of stainless steel wire around a heavy barrel swivel. Run the free end of the wire through the back of a lively baitfish, just below the dorsal fin. Swing the free end back toward the swivel and form a loose loop that slides easily on the leader. Tie your main line to the swivel and cast the rig onto a shallow flat. When a gar grabs the bait, a firm pull will tighten the snare around its beak.

Ropes

Versatile lures and flies also can be fashioned from strands of frayed nylon rope. Cut a 3- to 6-inch piece of 3/8-inch nylon rope, and thread it onto the shank of a hook, jighead, or spinnerbait as you would a plastic worm. Use a flame to fuse the rope to the hook shank, then wrap over the melted rope with strong thread or braided line. Cover the thread wraps with a couple coats of epoxy to increase the lure’s durability. Unravel the nylon strands the the base of the head, and you’re ready to fish. When a gar strikes, the lure becomes tangled in its teeth and around its snout.

Jugs

Jugs, or pop-ups as they’re called in the south, are similar to the juglines used by catfishermen. They consist of a 4-foot section of PVC pipe or a sturdy branch tied to 2-liter soda bottle. One end of a 2-foot wire leader is attached to the branch, the other to a large study hook baited with livebait or cutbait. Fleets of jugs are drifted across shallow flats at night. When a fish begins its second run, indicating it has swallowed the bait, the angler grabs the limb and attempts to haul the fish aboard.

Cut 1

With the deer on its back, lift its rump and slide something beneath its hindquarters to expose anal and/or vaginal openings. Using a sharp, “pointy” knife with a 4- to 6-inch blade, puncture the skin an inch to one side of the anus. Push the knife straight in to its hilt. Keeping it level and pointed straight ahead, cut a coring hole around the anus. If you shot a doe, include the vaginal opening in the cut.

Make one more knife pass around the pelvic canal’s interior to cut all connective tissue between the colon and pelvic canal. Don’t sever the colon. With one hand, tug lightly where the anus connects to it. Reach inside the pelvic canal with your index finger and tear any remaining connective tissue so the colon slides freely. Leave it and proceed.

Cut 2

Retrieve your knife and straddle the deer at its sternum, facing its rear. (Some hunters prefer to make this cut from the pelvis to sternum, but I recommend working from the sternum to the pelvis, as you can straddle the ribcage to keep the carcass fairly immobile.) Find the sternum bone’s flat surface and cut about a 5-inch slit through the hide atop the sternum. Point the knife toward the deer’s rear and hold it so the blade’s edge faces upward. With your free hand, form a “V” with your index and middle fingers and slide them safely beneath and behind the blade on each side.

Press your two guide fingers inside the cut on the sternum, push lightly into the abdomen and lift the hide from inside. With your two guide fingers leading the way, and being careful not to cut into the stomach and intestines below, use the blade’s tip to slice the hide from the sternum to the deer’s pelvis. Don’t cut into the pelvis; there’s no need to cut or saw through the pelvic bone. At this point, you can also remove a buck’s penis and scrotum, or a doe’s udders.

Cut 3

Pull the cavity open and locate the diaphragm. This is a taut membrane separating the chest cavity (lungs and heart) from the liver, stomach and intestines. Carefully cut the diaphragm away from both sides of the body cavity to the spine below.

Cut 4

Using your free hand, reach far inside the chest cavity to the neck and find the esophagus (windpipe), which feels like the ribbed tube on an elk call or vacuum cleaner. Using extreme care, reach up inside with your knife and cut through the esophagus above where you’re holding it with your other hand.

While keeping one hand firmly around the esophagus, withdraw your knife and lay it on the ground. Now reach back inside, grip the esophagus with both hands and pull firmly. Everything inside the deer—stem to stern—will pull free of the deer’s interior. You’ll need to pull hard at times to tear some connective tissue, but more cuts shouldn’t be needed.

Watch the innards as you pull them from the abdomen. If the bladder is full, guide it gently with one hand as it slides out with the rest of the entrails. If you properly cored the anus and colon, they’ll pull into the abdomen and slide out with everything else.

Flip the deer belly down and splay its legs to drain pooled blood from the body cavity. While it drains, clean and stow your gear for the pack-out.

Follow these steps, and gutting the deer will be your easiest task of the day.

While most shooters mistake the Beretta M9 and M9a1 as one weapon, their primary differences lay on their outer surface and build as their mechanical alignment and functioning are similar. This article aims at shedding light on the few differences observed between the two.

Well, there is not much to differentiate between them; the few differences that I came across in my research were not one you may ignore. Even the slightest curve in a handguns stock builds holds a significant effect on its performance. Before diving into these aspects, let us first take a look at a general overview of these Beretta products.

Beretta M9

The Beretta M9 is an Italian made semi-automatic pistol explicitly designed for 9mm. It is among a long catalog of 9mm Beretta handguns and ranks among the top sellers and most favored in the shooting genre. Its popularity mostly lies in the fact that the US armed forces adopted it as the official side firearm during the ’80s. Because of this, we saw them being a preference for most law enforcement officers in the modern world.

The internal engineering of this handgun features a short recoil accompanied by a single or double action mechanism. Its magazine capacity is 15 of 9mm rounds, which is standard for a day to day handgun user. Its design accommodates both left and right-handed shooters with a reversible magazine release button correctly positioned for the two types of shooters.

The Beretta M9 is also a perfect option for personal or home defense since it is among the most reliable firearms from Beretta. All of its parts are 100% interchangeable, with a wide variety of replacement parts available. Its flexible nature also simplifies its maintenance even when on intense conditions.

Beretta M9A1

The Beretta M9a1 is an evolved gun from the M9 and features specific improvements in its design, resulting in a better performance. These modifications make the handgun perfect for tactical encounters mostly to occur with the US marine corps. They incorporate the previous m9 features and marry them to other adjustments and additions to meet the essential need for the ever changing tactic approaches.

The fact that it features more excellent reliability and effectiveness than the m9 makes it an even better option for self-defence and concealed carry. Its performance is traced back to its premium components and flawless manufacturing. Not only is this Beretta handgun deliver quality and consistent performance, but its exterior build is also a sight to behold.

A unique sand resistant coated magazine and a three-dot sight on its build are some of the outstanding improvements placed among the top-rated handguns. In more than one article, the Beretta M9a1 has been mentioned as among the best Beretta 9mm handguns. It is practically the easiest to maintain with its compact nature and vast replacement options. It also features a disassembling button that eases the breaking down the process of the gun. Those who have had the opportunity to feel this weapon can testify to its premium results.

Differences between the Beretta M9 and the Beretta M9a1

Now that we are all familiar with both weapons, why don’t we dive right into the distinguishing features?

Sights

The material used in their make is the only similarity in their sights, as the M9 features a two white dot front sight for your sighting needs. On the other hand, the M9a1 has a more detailed three-dot feature. This includes one dot on the rear segment and the other two strategically positioned at the front piece.

The primary purpose of sight is to ease your target acquisition by providing a fixed plane to base your aim. Beretta gun makers have been in the firearm game for as long as I can remember, meaning that they have undisputed experience in what makes up a perfect sight for a gun. It is no surprise to find that both components on the two weapons are made of steel for more durable and productive use.

I believe that the M9a1 sight is best for most shooters due to their detailed build.

Accessory Rail

I honestly do not see the need to add more accessories to your handgun, mostly Beretta made ones. It just adds on more weight to your gun, offsetting the average balance of the weapon. Despite my opinion, most shooters find lasers and other sighting additions best for their Beretta guns. If you are among this crowd, then you should opt for the M9a1 since it has a Picatinny rail available on the bottom front side of the barrel.

The M9, on the other hand, does not have any railing to accommodate any additional accessory. Instead, at the location where the Picatinny rails on its counterpart, it features a prefix serial number. This differentiation does not make the M9 any less as both these weapons are close competitors in the shooting field.

Magazine

The magazine on both these Beretta handguns has an equal capacity of 15 9mm rounds and is made of the same material. The difference between their magazines being their coatings.

The M9 was first to be released between the two, meaning that it was first to hit the shooting fields. After several trips into the battleground, its users found that its magazine casing faced damage as a result of exposure from sand and other natural elements.

Later, when the M9a1 joined the market, it featured an improved PVD coated magazine casing. This magazine was also sand resistant, meaning that it could maintain its quality finishing even after excessive exposure to these elements.

Grip

Every experienced shooter realizes the importance of a quality grip in a grip. Among the components that hold significant influence in the aim and performance of a gun lies this crucial piece. Both gun grips have proven to be reliable no matter the encounter; however, their nature includes some differences.

The M9 grip has a smooth front and back lining on its grip and only features a side checkering plastic that provides the required grasp on the gun. On the other hand, the M9a1 grip has a strap checkering that provides more natural and comfortable handling of your handgun. It also plays a significant role in reducing the recoil felt, and you will achieve better results on consecutive shots.

Markings

To some, this build engraving might not be seen as a difference. However, since there are not many of the differences to list down between these two similar handguns: I found it an important difference. You can easily tell the difference just by looking at the gun’s engravings.

The M9 is a military used weapon hence its military-style markings on its finishing. On one side of the firearm lies a “US 9mm M9 Beretta USA” engraving that is visible even on a longer distance. The official build and serial number lies on the other side of its body and adds a unique feel to the handgun. It is only featured on the M9, whereas the M9a1 only features a serial number engraving on its surface.

M9 vs 92FS

The Beretta 92FS is among the long catalog of 9mm pistols from the Beretta makers. Actually, the 92FS pistol is based on the M9 model and features explicit modifications that improve its performance both on paper and in the field. These modifications result in a civilian edition of the military-grade M9; its evolution is innovative and features creative adjustments to its functioning.

In this section, we will discuss the minor improvements that lead to this perfect self-defence weapon.

Sights

Like all Beretta 9mm handguns, both these weapons feature iron sights fixed correctly at the front and rear. The M9 then features a two-dot sighting pair, with the front and rear sections having a white dot in their make. To some shooters, this is an excellent characterization that provides them with accurate and satisfying results.

The 92FS, however, has a three-dot sight, which is more detailed and promises even more accurate results. Two of the white dots are strategically positioned on the rear piece while the front company holds the third dot. This third white dot proves to be useful for finessing your aim and improving the target acquisition.

Hammer

Among the complaints that came from the M9 military use included claims that the slide shot back towards the shooter upon firing. This malfunction was responsible for causing severe damage to most military men during combat, compromising the troop’s success.

The Beretta team considered this when designing the 92FS, and installed a larger hammer pin. The giant hammer eliminated the risk of the slide flying backwards to the shooter, allowing for safer use. Considering that the 92FS was explicit for civilian use, such malfunctions would result in extreme damages.

Grip

In comparison to the M9, the 92FS features a narrower handle with a distinguished arc on its hold. Only with close observation of the grip will you notice this arc that extends to the gun’s beaver-rail. The M9, on the other hand, has a broader stock, and no turn is noticeable in its body finish.

Judging from their grip structuring, it is correct to conclude that the 92FS has better handling with its slim grip nature. It allows for a better fit on the shooter’s palm, improving the shooter’s control of his or her firearm. Here are some of the Best Beretta 92F grips

The Best Overall:

In conclusion, both these weapons are perfect options depending on their applications. For tactical encounters, I would suggest the M9, whereas defensive approaches are best for the 92FS.

Most Popular Handgun Accessories

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can Civilians Own a Beretta M9?

Regardless of DOD claims, you can successfully purchase a military-grade M9. The only requirement you need to meet is to be in a state that does not restrict firearm usage. Beretta is marketing these pistols as law enforcement pistols.

Why did the Army Replace the M9?

Following claims sourced from army officials, the M9 did not meet required standards for modern combat. Besides, cost analysis showed that its repair costs were equivalent to purchasing new service pistols. This is what led to their discontinuing in certain troops.

Would a 9mm Kill a Bear?

Yes, a 9mm would kill a bear. However, the bear would die of the injuries rather than the weapons stopping power. Before the bear falls to its demise, it will still have enough energy to cause severe damage to you.

Conclusion

The M9a1 is just an improvement of the M9 version, which I highly advocate for because of its magazine coating and Picatinny rail in its build. Its grip is also an aspect that sways most shooters find attractive over the M9.

However, the M9’s association with the US military gives its counterpart a run for its money. In conclusion, both are significant purchases and come at pocket-friendly pricing.

How To Cook A Pig In The Ground Southern Style

When it comes to traditional Southern cooking, few things beat the rich flavors and succulent tenderness of a whole pig cooked in the ground. This age-old cooking method, known as “pig roasting” or “hog roasting,” brings together an entire community for a hearty feast. In this article, we will take you through the step-by-step process of cooking a pig in the ground like a true Southerner.

1. Choose the Right Pig

The key to a successful pig roast is selecting the right pig. Look for a young pig, preferably weighing between 60 and 100 pounds. It’s important to choose a pig that is fresh and sourced from a reputable butcher or farm.

2. Prepare the Pit

Prepare a pit in your backyard or designated cooking area. The pit should be large enough to accommodate the pig and have sufficient depth for hot coals or wood. Line the pit with bricks or rocks for insulation.

3. Build the Fire

Start by building a fire in the pit. Use hardwood such as oak, hickory, or mesquite for a traditional smoky flavor. Allow the fire to burn until you have a good bed of hot coals. You can also add some soaked wood chips for additional flavor.

4. Season the Pig

While the fire is burning, it’s time to season the pig. Generously rub a mixture of salt, pepper, garlic powder, and your favorite dry rub all over the pig, both inside and out. This will help to enhance the flavor and ensure a crispy, flavorful skin.

5. Secure the Pig

Place the pig on a large wire mesh or grill grate and securely attach it to a metal rod or rebar. This will make it easier to handle and rotate the pig during the cooking process. Make sure it is properly positioned above the hot coals.

6. Lower the Pig into the Pit

Using heat-resistant gloves or hooks, carefully lower the pig into the pit, positioning it directly above the hot coals. Ensure that it is centered and not touching the sides of the pit to facilitate even cooking.

7. Cover and Cook

Once the pig is securely in the pit, cover it with a layer of burlap or wet banana leaves. This will help to retain moisture and create a steaming effect during the cooking process. Then, cover the pit with a layer of dirt or sand to seal in the heat.

8. Monitor the Cooking

Allow the pig to cook slowly over the hot coals for approximately 12 hours. It’s crucial to monitor the cooking temperature, maintaining it around 225-250°F. Rotate the pig every few hours to ensure even cooking and baste it with a mixture of vinegar and water or your desired marinade.

9. Test for Doneness

To test for doneness, insert a meat thermometer into the thickest part of the pig without touching the bone. The internal temperature should read 160°F for the meat to be safely cooked. Additionally, the skin should be crispy and golden brown.

10. Carve and Serve

Once the pig is fully cooked, carefully remove it from the pit and allow it to rest for about 30 minutes. Use a sharp knife or cleaver to carve the pig into succulent pieces, including the crispy skin. Serve alongside traditional Southern sides like coleslaw, cornbread, and barbecue sauce.

There you have it – the ultimate guide to cooking a pig in the ground Southern Style. Whether you’re hosting a backyard party or a festive gathering, this traditional method is sure to impress your guests and leave them craving for more of that smoky, tender goodness. So gather your friends and family, and celebrate the rich culinary heritage of the South with a mouthwatering pig roast!

SEASONS

OPENING DATE

CLOSING DATE

DAILY LIMIT

Dove (Mourning and Eurasian-collared)

Sept. 1, 2022

Dec. 10, 2022

Nov. 6, 2022

Jan. 1, 2024

15

EARLY: Canada Goose

Sept. 3, 2022

Sept. 11, 2022

5

EARLY: Teal

(Blue-winged, Green-winged, & Cinnamon)

Sept. 3, 2022

Sept. 18, 2022

6

Rail (Virginia, Sora)

Sept. 1, 2022

Nov. 9, 2022

25

Gallinules

Sept. 1, 2022

Nov. 9, 2022

15

Wilson’s Snipe

Sept. 1, 2022

Dec. 10, 2022

Nov. 23, 2022

Jan. 1, 2024

8

American Woodcock

Oct. 8, 2022

Nov. 21, 2022

3

Hunting hours are sunrise to sunset, unless posted.

The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service sets the frameworks for waterfowl and other migratory game birds. Migratory bird hunting is governed by both state and federal regulations. Wa- terfowl hunting is permitted when seasons are open during the youth deer gun season, the deer gun season, and the deer muzzleloader season. The possession limit for wa- terfowl and migratory birds after the second day is three times the daily bag limit.

OPENING DAY OF A SEASON

No person on the opening day of the season shall possess any freshly killed migratory game birds in excess of the daily bag limit, or aggregate daily bag limit, whichever applies.

MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING

To hunt migratory birds in Ohio, you must have the following:

• A valid Ohio hunting license.
• Harvest Information Program (HIP) certification.

In addition to the requirements above, to hunt waterfowl in Ohio, you must also have the following:

• An Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp en- dorsement is required of all persons 18 or older.
• A signed federal Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp (Duck Stamp) is required of all persons age 16 and older.

HIP SURVEY

All hunters, including landowners, who plan to hunt migratory game birds, includ- ing mourning doves, ducks, geese, wood- cock, rails, coots, and snipe must have a Harvest Information Program (HIP) certi- fication number on their hunting license. To complete the HIP certification require- ment, call 1-877-HIP-OHIO (1-877-447- 6446) or go to wildohio.gov and answer the survey questions. After the survey you will be given a certification number. Write the certification number on your annual hunting license in the space provided.

Multiyear license and lifetime license hold- ers are required to complete the HIP certifi- cation requirement annually. The certifica- tion number is required to be carried while hunting.FEDERAL REGULATIONS AND FEDERAL MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING STAMP (DUCK STAMP)

Federal regulations relating to migratory game birds are located in Title 50, Code of Federal Regulations, Part 20.

For additional information on federal regu- lations, go to fws.gov or ecfr.gov

Hunters should know:

• Federal Duck Stamps are valid from July 1 through the following June 30.
• You must sign the front of your Duck Stamp in order for it to be valid. Remem- ber: only you may use your Federal Duck Stamp.
• If you bought an E-Stamp, you must carry your 45-day receipt with you at all times while hunting. Once the receipt has expired, you must carry your current, signed Federal Duck Stamp. If you pur- chased your E-Stamp at a retail store, you must carry the E-Stamp/45-day receipt. Your purchase/credit card receipt from the store is not valid as a Duck Stamp.

Hunters 16 years of age and older are re- quired to purchase this stamp to hunt waterfowl. These stamps are available at many U.S. post office branches, usps.com, or duckstamp.com.

The E-Stamp available through duckstamp. com is valid immediately for up to 45 days with the receipt of the e-stamp purchase.

OHIO WETLANDS HABITAT STAMP

The Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp will not be issued at the time of purchase. A li- cense will be issued stating Ohio Wetlands Stamp. The stamp will be mailed later in the year. The stamp does not need to be carried while hunting.

MILITARY WATERFOWL HUNTING

Active duty military and veterans may hunt waterfowl on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Bag limits are the same as the regular season. Active duty military and veterans and youth may hunt waterfowl together during this spe- cial season.

The hunter must be a veteran or a member of the armed forces on active duty.

YOUTH WATERFOWL HUNTING

Hunters 17 years old or younger may hunt waterfowl statewide (on public and private lands) on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Ducks, geese, and coots may be taken under bag limits established for the regular season. Hunting hours are 30 minutes before sun- rise to sunset.

NONTOXIC SHOT

No person may take ducks, geese (including brant), rail, snipe, gallinules, or coots while possessing shot (either in shotshells or as loose shot for muzzleloading) other than ap- proved nontoxic shot. For a list of approved nontoxic shot, see fws.gov.

OPENING DAY OF A SEASON

No person on the opening day of the season shall possess any freshly killed migratory game birds in excess of the daily bag limit, or aggregate daily bag limit, whichever applies.

MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING

To hunt migratory birds in Ohio, you must have the following:

• A valid Ohio hunting license.
• Harvest Information Program (HIP) certification.

In addition to the requirements above, to hunt waterfowl in Ohio, you must also have the following:

• A Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp endorsement is required of all persons 18 or older.
• A signed federal Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp (Duck Stamp) is required of all persons age 16 and older.

HIP SURVEY

All hunters, including landowners, who plan to hunt migratory game birds, includ- ing mourning doves, ducks, geese, wood- cock, rails, coots, and snipe must have a harvest information program (HIP) certi- fication number on their hunting license. To complete the HIP certification require- ment, call 1-877-HIP-OHIO (1-877-447-6446) or go to wildohio.gov and answer the survey questions. After the survey you will be given a certification number. Write the certification number on your annual hunting license in the space provided.

Multiyear license and lifetime license hold- ers are required to complete the HIP certifi- cation requirement annually. The certifica- tion number is required to be carried while hunting

WATERFOWL SEASONS

OPENING DATE

CLOSING DATE

DAILY LIMIT

Youth Waterfowl Season

Sept. 30, 2024

Oct. 1, 2024

Same as the regular season

Military Waterfowl Season

Sept. 30, 2024

Oct. 1, 2024

Same as the regular season

LAKE ERIE MARSH ZONE:

Geese

Oct. 14, 2024

Nov. 4, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Dec. 17, 2024

GEESE

5 combined: Canada goose, white-fronted goose, and no more than 1 brant.

10 combined: snow goose, blue goose, Ross’s goose.

DUCKS

The daily bag limit is 6 ducks, which may include no more than 4 mallards (only 2 hens),

3 wood ducks, 2 redheads, 2 canvasbacks, 1 pintail, 2 black ducks, or 1 mottled duck. One scaup during the first 15 days of the season; two scaup during the next 45 days.

MERGANSERS & COOTS

5 mergansers (only 2 hooded), and 15 coots.

Dec. 31, 2024

Feb. 4, 2024

LAKE ERIE MARSH ZONE:

Ducks, Coots, &Mergansers

Oct. 14, 2024

Nov. 4, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Dec. 17, 2024

NORTH ZONE:

Geese

Oct. 21, 2024

Nov. 11, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Feb. 5, 2024

NORTH ZONE:

Ducks, Coots, &Mergansers

Oct. 21, 2024

Nov. 11, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

DEC. 31, 2024

SOUTH ZONE:

Geese

Oct. 21, 2024

Nov. 18, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Feb. 12, 2024

SOUTH ZONE:

Ducks, Coots, &Mergansers

Oct. 21, 2024

Dec. 9, 2024

Oct. 29, 2024

Jan. 28, 2024

Hunting hours are 30 minutes before sunrise to sunset during the regular waterfowl season, unless posted.

OHIO WETLANDS HABITAT STAMP

The Ohio Wetlands Habitat Stamp will not be issued at the time of purchase. A license will be issued stating Ohio Wetlands Stamp. The stamp will be mailed later in the year. The stamp does not need to be carried while hunting.

FEDERAL REGULATIONS AND FEDERAL MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING STAMP (DUCK STAMP)

Federal regulations relating to migratory game birds are located in Title 50, Code of Federal Regulations, Part 20.

For additional information on federal regulations, go to fws.gov or ecfr.gov

Hunters should know:

• Federal Duck Stamps are valid from July 1 through the following June 30.
• You must sign the front of your Duck Stamp in order for it to be valid. Remember: only you may use your Federal Duck Stamp.
• If you bought an E-Stamp, you must carry your 45-day receipt with you at all times while hunting. Once the receipt has expired, you must carry your current, signed Federal Duck Stamp. If you purchased your E-Stamp at a retail store, you must carry the E-Stamp/45-day receipt. Your purchase/credit card receipt from the store is not valid as a Duck Stamp.

Hunters 16 years of age and older are required to purchase this stamp to hunt waterfowl. These stamps are available at many U.S. post office branches, usps.com, or duckstamp.com.

The E-Stamp available through duckstamp. com is valid immediately for up to 45 days with the receipt of the e-stamp purchase.

MILITARY WATERFOWL HUNTING

Active duty military and veterans may hunt waterfowl on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Bag limits are the same as the regular season. Active duty military and veterans and youth may hunt waterfowl together during this spe- cial season.

The hunter must be a veteran or a member of the armed forces on active duty.

YOUTH WATERFOWL HUNTING

Hunters 17 years old or younger may hunt waterfowl statewide (on public and private lands) on Sept. 30 and Oct. 1, 2024. Ducks, geese, and coots may be taken under bag limits established for the regular season. Hunting hours are 30 minutes before sun- rise to sunset.

NONTOXIC SHOT

No person may take ducks, geese (including brant), rail, snipe, moorhens, or coots while possessing shot (either in shotshells or as loose shot for muzzleloading) other than approved nontoxic shot. For a list of approved nontoxic shot, see fws.gov.

DOVE HUNTING

Hours for dove are sunrise to sunset. Doves may be hunted with lead shot. Dove field maps are available at wildohio.gov.

Doves may be hunted on areas that have been manipulated (for example, mowed or bush-hogged) for wildlife management purposes, in addition to areas that have been planted or harvested in a normal ag- ricultural manner. Neither waterfowl nor doves may be hunted on areas where grain or other feed has been distributed once it has been removed from or stored on the field where grown. Contact a Division of Wildlife district office or a state wildlife of- ficer for clarification on baiting regulations before you hunt.

Harvest Information Program (HIP) certi- fication is required to dove hunt. To com- plete the HIP certification requirement, call 1-877-HIP-OHIO (1-877-447-6446) or go to wildohio.gov and answer the survey ques- tions. After the survey you will be given a certification number. Write the certification number on your annual hunting license in the space provided.

Multiyear license and lifetime license hold- ers are required to complete the HIP certifi- cation requirement annually. The certifica- tion number is required to be carried while hunting.

TAGGING REQUIREMENT

No person shall put or leave any migratory game birds at any place (other than at his personal abode), or in the custody of another person for picking, cleaning, processing, shipping, transportation, or storage (includ- ing temporary storage), or for the purpose of having taxidermy services performed, unless such birds have a tag attached, signed by the hunter, stating their address, the total number and species of birds, and the date such birds were killed. Migratory game birds being transported in any vehicle as the personal baggage of the possessor shall not be considered as being in storage or temporary storage.

ADDITIONAL REGULATIONS

It is legal to take migratory game birds including waterfowl and coots on or over the following lands or areas that are not otherwise baited areas:

• Standing crops or flooded standing crops (including aquatics);
• Standing, flooded, or manipulated natural vegetation; flooded harvested croplands; or lands or areas where seeds or grains have been scattered solely as the result of a normal agricultural planting, harvesting, post-harvest manipulation, or normal soil stabilization practice;
• From a blind or other place of concealment camouflaged with natural vegetation;
• From a blind or other place of conceal- ment camouflaged with vegetation from agricultural crops, as long as such cam- ouflaging does not result in the exposing, depositing, distributing, or scattering of grain or other feed; or
• Standing or flooded standing agricultural crops where grain is inadvertently scat- tered solely as a result of a hunter entering or exiting a hunting area, placing decoys, or retrieving downed birds.

ILLEGAL HUNTING METHODS

NO PERSONS SHALL TAKE MIGRATORY GAME BIRDS:

1. With a crossbow, trap, snare, net, rifle, pistol, swivel gun, shotgun larger than 10 gauge, punt gun, battery gun, machine- gun, fish hook, poison, drug, explosive, or stupefying substance;
2. From or by means, aid, or use of a sinkbox or any other type of low-floating device, having a depression affording the hunter a means of concealment beneath the surface of the water;
3. From or by means, aid, or use of any motor vehicle, motor-driven land conveyance, or aircraft of any kind;
4. From or by means of any motorboat or other craft having a motor attached, or any sailboat, unless the motor has been completely shut off and/or the sails furled, and its progress therefrom has ceased;
5. By the use or aid of live birds as decoys; although not limited to, it shall be a vio- lation of this paragraph for any person to take migratory waterfowl on an area where tame or captive live ducks or geese are present unless such birds are and have been for a period of 10 consecutive days prior to such taking, confined within an enclosure which substantially reduces the audibility of their calls and totally conceals such birds from the sight of wild migratory waterfowl;
6. By the aid of baiting or on or over any baited area.
7. With any device that emits recorded or electrically amplified bird calls or sounds, or recorded or electrically amplified imi- tations of bird calls or sounds. It is illegal to possess such devices while hunting waterfowl in Ohio;
8. By means or aid of any motor driven land, water, or air conveyance, or any sailboat used for the purpose of or resulting in the concentrating, driving, rallying, or stirring up of any migratory bird;

LEGAL WATERFOWL & MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING EQUIPMENT

SEASONEQUIPMENT

WATERFOWL AND MIGRATORY BIRD HUNTING

Shotgun: 10 gauge or smaller shotgun using nontoxic shot, includes muzzleloading shotguns. In order to huntmigratory game birds, your shotgun cannot be capable ofholding more than three shells, unless it is plugged with aone-piece filler incapable of removal without disas- sembling the gun.

Only nontoxic shot may be used to take waterfowl, rail, snipe,and com- mon gallinule. Dove and woodcock may be takenwith lead shot.

Longbow: This includes compound bows and recurve bows.

MeatEater is Part of Outdoor Channel’s “Taste of the Wild” Block Monday Nights

DENVER (October 11, 2024) – MeatEater, featuring the charismatic Steven Rinella, has consistently captivated viewers of Outdoor Sportsman Group, and now season 11 of this perennial favorite is now available nationally on Outdoor Channel for the first time every Monday at 8 p.m. ET.

As Rinella continually shares, the show transcends beyond the mere search of an animal; it’s a testament to his own personal grit, determination and essence that fuels such pursuit. Season 11 sees Rinella and crew chase moose in Alaska, spearfish in Hawaii, hunt ducks in Louisiana and find themselves in many more nature-fueled adventures along the way.

“One of my favorite episodes from season 11 was a moose hunt in eastern Alaska. We were there for ten days and were getting our buns kicked. And then, finally, in the last hour of the last day of the season here comes a bull from about a mile off. Trying to call him up the mountain while simultaneously closing the distance by heading in his direction was one of the more exciting moments we ever filmed,” shared Steven Rinella.

Growing up in the Midwest’s great outdoors – hunting, fishing, and trapping from a young age – Rinella has always viewed the world through the eyes of an ancestral hunter/gatherer. Inspired by early man’s skill, ingenuity, and sheer determination to survive and thrive under challenging circumstances, Rinella has made his life’s work to cultivate those same qualities – and encourage others to do the same – while always being mindful of conservation principles and practices.

In MeatEater, Rinella explores various hunting techniques, tracks and pursue prey, and procures and cooks his own food. Whether tracking blacktail deer in the remote Alaskan wilderness, or rooting out javelina in Texas, Rinella leverages his back-country skills, challenging himself at every corner while providing nail-biting adventure along the way.

Steven Rinella is an avid outdoorsman, writer, and television personality best known for his ability to translate the hunting lifestyle to a wide variety of audiences. He is the host of the long-running television show MeatEater and top-ranked MeatEater podcast. He is the New York Times bestselling author of ten books dealing with wildlife, hunting, fishing, and wild game cooking, most recently Outdoor Kids in an Inside World: Getting Your Family Out of the House and Radically Engaged with Nature and the audio original, MeatEater’s Campfire Stories: Narrow Escapes and More Close Calls. He is the recipient of the Conservation Achievement Award from The Theodore Roosevelt Conservation Partnership.

About Outdoor Channel: Outdoor Channel has been taking viewers across America and around the world on unparalleled adventures since 1993. Dedicated to the outdoor lifestyle and conservation, the independent cable network is a division of Outdoor Sportsman Group and provides a complete spectrum of riveting hunting, fishing, shooting and adventure entertainment. Outdoor Channel is the largest outdoor TV footprint in the country and is available in more than 50 countries internationally. Outdoor Channel can be viewed in HD and is accessible by broadband and mobile platforms. For program times and other information, visit www.outdoorchannel.com. Follow us on Twitter, Instagram, Facebook and YouTube.

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