In the field, most windows of opportunity are narrow.

So acting swiftly must be your default position as a hunter.

That goes for shot placement as well.

You’ll learn that through a review of:

• 11 scenarios
• 18 diagrams
• 9 rules

Mastery and success rely on understanding several other concepts and topics.

Like optimal bullet choice, advanced shot types, shot placement anatomy, reaction to shot, and more.

I will cover these topics in related articles.

And link to them as we go along or at the end.

Before we get to the details, let me first explain what successful shot placement has in common with Boot Camp.

Where I’m from, we have national service.

I have fond memories of when I first got a chance to shoot my G3.

It’s not an elegant battle rifle by today’s standards. But I loved it. It was rugged, reliable, and relatively accurate. And a ton of fun at night with a Pilkington on top.

Anyway, I digress.

Your success as a hunter depends on two principles – Thinking faster than the animal and Acting faster than the animal.

There were aspects of Boot Camp I was less excited about.

Aircraft recognition training.

We had to be able to make a quick friend or foe identifications. When spotting aircraft.

And we practiced with aircraft flashcards.

This was not exactly my favorite or strong side. But it provides an important lesson when it comes to shot placement.

Success in the field depends on your ability to shoot fast and accurately.

More often than not, animals don’t hang around for long.

If you’re hunting in woodland or bush, the vegetation will further limit your opportunities to shoot.

So you must be able to quickly acquire the correct sight picture.

The flashcard concept is a fantastic way to develop that skill.

Why.

Your working memory can only manage about four concepts at once.

More, and you start dropping the ball.

Of all the things you can process in your working memory when hunting, deciding where to aim is not a good candidate. That has to be intuitive.

Enter the flashcards.

If you’re anything like me, you want to harvest venison for your freezer. Put a trophy on your wall. And live up to your role as a hunter and steward of nature.

Correct and swift shot placement is key to ticking those boxes.

You’ll learn fast target acquisition in two sections.

1. What type of shot should you use?
2. Where should you aim in different scenarios?

If you’re in a hurry, you can skip to the end for a summary of the rules.

Or to one of the specific scenarios:

• The broadside shot
• The front quartering shot
• The rear quartering shot
• The front shot
• The shot from behind
• Uphill/downhill
  • Downhill broadside
  • Uphill broadside
• Combined angles
  • Front quartering downhill
  • Front quartering uphill
  • Rear quartering downhill
  • Rear quartering uphill

There are several ways to kill a deer or other hoofed animal. One of them stands out as being fast and reliable.

The double lung shot has the biggest margin of error.

And it produces reliable killing.

A heart shot may sound alluring, but it’s not ideal.

It sits low in the body, and shooting under the heart means trouble.

Surprisingly, a bullet through the heart alone can take a long time to take effect.

Other advanced shots present additional challenges. So we’ll leave them for now.

Putting a bullet through both lungs will do one of two things, or both:

• Create severe blood loss that causes fatal shock
• Collapse the lungs and cut off oxygen to the brain and other cells in the body

And this is a surefire way to kill a deer.

This leads us to rule number one.

Shot placement rule #1: Use the double lung shot for fast and reliable killing.

As per the diagram, you’ll see the lungs reach back into the chest cavity of the animal.

But ignore that when it comes to developing fast target acquisition practices.

Instead, consider the vital triangle.

Kevin Robertson introduces it in his book, “The Perfect Shot – Shot Placement for African Big Game” (highly recommended).

It is also good reference for deer and other hoofed animals.

And the center of the triangle corresponds with the center of the lungs.

As well as the top of the heart where you find the arteries and veins meet.

Determine the triangle with these three references:

1. The bottom edge of the shoulder blade
2. The shoulder joint
3. The tip of the elbow

Sometimes you can see the contour of the bones.

But it’s best to have a more reliable way to aim.

I’ll show you how when we analyze the broadside shot.

The broadside shot

The broadside shot is the shortest and most forgiving path through the lungs.

In the ideal scenario we’ll review here, you are at a 90-degree angle to the animal.

And at the same level.

We’ve established that the center of the vital triangle is the best aiming point for speed and effectiveness. But where exactly should you put your crosshairs?

To determine how far you should come up, follow rule two.

Shot placement rule #2 – For horizontal shots, place your horizontal post between ⅓ and ½ up the deer’s body.

As you can see, that corresponds with the center of the triangle.

Where should you put your vertical post then? Easy, follow rule three

Shot placement rule #3 – For broadside shots, place your vertical post on the center of the front leg.

As you can see from the image, by the center, I mean the center of the top part of the leg.

Because the lower part of the leg may reach further forward on a deer, depending on how it stands.

So, your sight picture should look like this for a full broadside shot.

This is the foundational way to shoot an animal.

I won’t go into advanced shots in this article, but it’s worth mentioning one other popular shot.

With the high-heart/center-lung shot, you hit good shoulder meat that will potentially be bloodshot and wasted.

To avoid that, you can move your sight picture to the right. So your vertical post rests on the elbow point, just in the crease between the leg and the belly.

This shot will destroy the lungs, but you must be careful not to come too far back.

A rear lung shot may also be worth considering if you’re shooting a large animal at long range, using a high BC bullet that is fast expanding. With this shot you won’t there is further to the shoulder bones and you will shoot through less muscle.

Generally speaking, the broadside shot is easy on your bullet.

Once we move to the quartering shots, you need to consider if your bullet is fit for purpose.

Let’s see why.

The front quartering shot

Remember the bone structure triangle from the broadside shot?

It was our friend then, creating a relatively free passage for a double lung shot.

If you take a shot at a quartering animal, you need to think about the bullet’s path as it travels through the animal.

I once shot a female red deer with my 7 by 64 (similar to a 280 Remington).

I used a tipped bullet designed for deer.

I thought I was home free as the deer went down from the shot.

As the guide congratulated me on a job well done, the deer started moving and got up on all four.

Fortunately, I’d reloaded immediately after the shot, so I was ready to shoot again.

And I anchored the deer for good.

When butchering the deer, we found the first bullet perfectly lodged in the shoulder knuckle. It wasn’t a big deer. I used a bullet made for that size of animal. And it left the barrel of my rifle at a reasonable velocity.

This is just one data point, but it emphasizes that a front quartering shot means you must carefully consider your bullet choice.

And it’s not just bone structure you need to consider.

At this angle, you’ll shoot through a fair bit of muscle. Especially on a larger animal.

Please ensure the bullet you use can penetrate all the way to and through the vitals if you decide to take a front quartering shot. Regardless of what distance you choose to shoot.

Enough said.

When you do decide to take a shot, where should you aim?

You want to put your bullet through both lungs.

For a 45-degree broadside shot, that path looks like this.

We’ve established you should come up somewhere between 1/3 and 1/2 way up from the animal’s chest.

The exact aiming point depends on how much the animal is quartering.

Here’s a key point to consider.

The heart is offset slightly from the very front of the animal you aim at. So you don’t want to put your vertical post midway between the legs.

Instead, use rule number four.

Shot placement rule #4 – For a 45° front quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the near leg.

That’s your flash card image.

Memorize it. Be ready for action 🙂

Quick question.

Inside the upper leg or lower leg?

Generally speaking, inside the upper part, but it depends on the angle.

And speaking of angles, you must also follow rule number five.

Shot placement rule #5 – Don’t take shots more than 45 degrees off a square broadside.

I’ll explain why when discussing the front and rear quartering shots.

This brings us to the next shot scenario.

The rear quartering shot

With the rear quartering shot, you don’t have the shoulder bone to worry about.

But depending on the angle, you might penetrate the rumen.

I’ll create a separate article with more detail about key organs and shot placement.

All I’ll say here is that the rumen is full of undigested grass.

And it’s a tall order to shoot through.

Shooting through it will also introduce stomach content and bacteria in the body cavity.

That’s something you should try to avoid.

Here’s a diagram showing a 45-degree angle.

It looks like you’re home free.

But in the field, the stomach will most likely be fuller.

And it sits flush with the sides of the animal.

The liver takes up space between the stomach and lungs on the right-hand side, so you might hit it.

On the left-hand side, the stomach takes up all the space. So you’re more likely to hit it when taking on that side.

Combine that with a steeper angle, and you see it’s easy to get in trouble. Just follow rule number five. No shots beyond 45 degrees from a perfect broadside.

I want you to recognize this situation as a potential issue.

Some of the highly frangible bullets that are fantastic for broadside shots at extended ranges will give you trouble if you have to shoot through the rumen.

Bear that in mind.

There is no perfect choice of cartridge and bullet for long and short-range shooting.

Make a choice and be clear on the limitations you have to work with.

With that covered, where should you aim?

Height-wise, you should still refer to rule number two.

Where should you put your vertical post?

Consider rule number six.

Shot placement rule #6 – For a 45° rear quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the far leg.

As discussed, the heart is offset from the front.

So you do the opposite than for a front quartering shot.

That’s your rear quarter flash card.

Look at it before you go to bed at night.

Be ready… 🙂

The front shot

So if there are challenges with the quartering shots, the front shot, straight on, should be easy, right?

I wish.

Your margin of error for significant tissue destruction becomes a lot smaller.

Consider the broadside shot.

You still penetrate both lungs even if you’re a little off your target.

And “both” is the keyword here.

Even if you’re a fair bit off your aiming point.

With a front shot, the further your impact moves from the center of the heart, the less tissue you will destroy.

And veering off, you will only be able to destroy one lung.

Which makes a big difference.

I once tracked an Oryx in South Africa.

Because of a high lung shot that hadn’t done enough damage.

It went down from the shock and then took off.

It took us seven hours to catch up and put it out of it’s misery. More about shock in another article by the way.

Animals can run far if the damage to their lungs isn’t substantial.

There’s no need for you to engineer that kind of situation for yourself.

Here’s an illustration showing how little you have to work with.

It’s the reason the 45-degree rule applies to front quartering shots.

If you go beyond 45 degrees, you start to approach a front shot.

And I recommend that you don’t take this shot unless you have wounded the animal.

By the way, you will notice that it won’t take much head movement before you have a show-stopping object in the bullet path.

And a wounded animal to deal with.

A shot from behind

What about the opposite end?

Shooting the animal up the rear, what some folks refer to as a Texas heart shot.

By the way, I don’t think that’s fair to the good folks and serious hunters in Texas.

But let’s leave that discussion for now.

Here’s the problem with this shot.

You combine the challenges of the rear quartering shot and the front shot.

A limited target area and a great deal of show-stopping plant material.

In my book, you should only use this shot in an emergency.

If you have already wounded an animal. And you need deep penetrating bullets to have any chance of success.

Let me just pause and add one thing.

It may sound like I’ve been preaching stout bullets.

But I haven’t.

What I’m preaching is the right tool for the job.

I will write an article with more detail on cartridge choice and bullet construction.

For now, I will add that in some cases, you want a bullet that expands fast.

You don’t have much distance to work with when you shoot small deer species. So you want a bullet that opens up fast enough to destroy lung and heart tissue before it exits the animal.

And you need the same if you shoot at long ranges.

Shooting uphill and downhill

Maybe you’re hunting from a tree stand.

Or perhaps you’re fortunate enough to hunt in a mountainous or hilly area. Which, by the way, is my favorite environment to hunt.

In that case, you must consider the changes to the aiming point uphill and downhill shooting presents.

Whether you’re shooting up or down, you must consider this.

You are not aiming where you want to hit.

Your goal is to put a bullet straight through the middle of the lungs, as we discussed.

However, your aiming point is some distance from your target, so you must adjust it to ensure the correct bullet path.

It’s worth noting that this is relevant as the shot angle becomes steeper.

Enter rule number seven.

Shot placement rule #7 – Adjust for uphill or downhill shots when the angle exceeds 20 degrees.

So how should you adjust?

Follow rules number eight and nine.

Shot placement rule #8 – If you’re shooting downhill, your aiming point must come up.

Shot placement rule #9 – If you’re shooting uphill, your aiming point must come down.

A little like adjusting open sights back in the day.

Ballistic side note: When shooting uphill or downhill at longer ranges, gravity will have less impact on your bullet. You must combine this effect with the changes to your aiming point.

Downhill broadside

Using the center of the vital triangle, inside the body, as our target, you can see from the diagram that your aiming point changes drastically for steeper angles.

Here’s your flashcard.

Shooting from above, you’ll get much closer to the shoulder blade.

With a bow or light for animal cartridge with a fast expanding bullet, you have to be careful about what you do.

Because your margin of error is getting smaller at that angle.

Uphill broadside

Shooting uphill, you can see how you have to aim further down the body than a regular broadside shot.

This is a relatively acute angle for shooting uphill, and I’ve chosen it to exaggerate and show you the difference.

Consider the 20 degrees as the point when you need to adjust.

And use this diagram as your flash card.

Combined angles

Let’s have some fun.

Let’s combine the quartering shots with the up and downhill shots.

No new rules.

The current ones still apply.

Front quartering downhill

For the front quartering and above version, you will still have to consider the bone structure.

More the shoulder blade than the shoulder knuckle.

Depending on the deer’s size, the quartering shot warnings still apply.

And if you’re a bowhunter, you need to consider if the shoulder bone or blade can deflect or stop your arrow.

Front quartering uphill

As with regular up and downhill shots, visualize the center of the vital triangle inside the body. Offset a bit between the front legs.

Here’s your flashcard.

Rear quartering downhill

This is a typical tree stand shot.

The animal is walking away from you and is less likely to spot any movements.

Rule number five still applies.

More than 45 degrees, and you get in trouble.

By the way, notice how your crosshairs are much closer to the spine. But if you should shoot close to it, you’ll still penetrate both lungs.

Hunting lots from treestands?

Then tattoo this flashcard on the inside of your left eyelid…

Rear quartering uphill

Granted, this is an unusual shot unless you encounter an animal on a ledge on a hill above you.

I once stalked a group of red deer along the base of a ridge line.

They’d moved up the ridge as I turned a corner, and I had a safe and clear uphill shot like this.

I was on flat ground, and the deer left before I could get to a knoll to take an uphill shot.

Now you know where to aim.

Don’t come back with silly excuses like mine.

Bring back a monster rack!

Wow.

Did you ever imagine you could have so much fun with deer shot placement diagrams?

Well, now you know.

Here’s a serious note.

Remember the duty we have as hunters to be effective.

We owe it to those magnificent deer we admire, hunt, harvest, and care for.

Practice your craft as a hunter.

Invest in understanding the behaviors and anatomy of the deer.

And know the capability and limitations of yourself and your equipment.

Memorize the scenarios and shot placement diagrams.

And use the nine rules to help you along the way.

As a reminder, here are the rules.

1. Use the double lung shot for fast and reliable killing.
2. For horizontal shots, place your horizontal post between ⅓ and ½ up the deer’s body.
3. For broadside shots, place your vertical post on the center of the front leg.
4. For a 45° front quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the near leg.
5. Don’t take shots more than 45 degrees off a square broadside.
6. For a 45° rear quartering shot, place your vertical post inside the far leg.
7. Adjust for uphill or downhill shots when the angle exceeds 20 degrees.
8. If you’re shooting downhill, your aiming point must come up.
9. If you’re shooting uphill, your aiming point must come down.

By the way, I have a bonus for you. We’ve added the diagrams to the Efficient Hunting e-book.

Click here to go to the download page.

Expect the price of ammunition to rise substantially in 2024 as manufacturers dedicate materials to supply the war in Ukraine.

The first hint appeared Monday when Vista Outdoor announced the sale of its outdoor sporting products division to Czechoslovak Group for $1.91 billion. Vista Outdoor brands include Federal, CCI, Speer, Heavy Metal, Bushnell, Butler Creek, Hoppes, and Remington, which owns a large ammunition plant at Lonoke.

A source in the retail side of the Vista universe said that Czechoslovak Group wants the ammunition making capacity for the war in Ukraine. A Reuters article on Monday reinforced that opinion. It said, “Czech-based CSG has seen its revenue and profits rise since Russia’s invasion of Ukraine as demand for heavy military equipment and ammunition to ship to Ukraine soared.”

In December 2022, Czechoslovak Group also acquired 70% of Fiocchi Munizioni, which in November 2022 announced plans to build a firearms primer manufacturing facility in Little Rock. It is one of only six primer manufacturing facilities in the United States and is also the world’s only source for lead-free primers.

When interruptions occur in the firearms industry supply chain, the retail ammunition and ammunition reloading markets get pinched the hardest. Shortages are most noticeable for 9mm Luger, 40 S&W and 45 ACP, all common law enforcement and military cartridges. Accelerated production of ammo for military and law enforcement also causes shortages in the civilian market. This reduces availability of 380 Rem., and 22 LR, which manufacturers de-emphasize when producing high-demand military and police cartridges.

Robin Sharpless, executive vice-president of Redding Reloading Equipment, said that ammunition and reloading component shortages always accompany periods of political and social unrest.

When shortages are most acute, scarcity of factory loaded ammunition is equally acute. Scarcity triggers binge buying among some customers. Big box retailers sell an entire pallet of ammo to a few customers as soon as it leaves the truck. Moving inventory quickly is an objective in the retail paradigm. It doesn’t matter if it moves through three customers or thirty.

Sharpless said that during the coronavirus pandemic, he noticed the same behavior in the reloading components market.

“If you were watching Facebook forums, you’d see posts that would say, ‘Cabelas got so many primers, and I got them ALL!'” Sharpless said. “I talked to one of those guys. He loads a box of ammunition a year. He shoots a couple of deer a year, so that’s, what, half a box at most? But he’s got 3,000 years worth of primers. It’s an ‘I’ve got them and you don’t,’ thing. Those behaviors do hurt the market.

David Stone, president of Dong’s Sporting and Reloading Goods in Tulsa, noticed the same thing in the ammunition market.

“During the pandemic in 2020, there was no rimfire and no 9mm,” Stone said. “One guy told me he had a 50-gallon drum full of 22 rimfire shells. Never in your entire lifetime are you going to shoot all those. There are thousands of hoarders like that.”

Some retailers, like Fort Thompson’s Sporting Goods in Sherwood, flatten the supply and demand curve locally to a small extent by limiting the amount of ammo and components that individuals can buy at one time. Rationing ammo and components ensures that products are available to the maximum number of customers.

Rationing ammo is important during buying spree periods because it engenders trust, Stone said. Nothing frustrates a customer more than an unavailable product.

“I’m here every day and I watch my inventory level,” Stone said. “Big chains have got corporate people that watch stuff. They’ll ship a hundred boxes to a store. One person can walk in off the street and buy it all. I don’t do that.”

Even when ammo is available, reloading supplies often remain scarce for a long time. An associate at Fort Thompson Sporting Goods said it’s because ammo manufacturers consume the bulk of powder, primers, brass and bullets.

“A lot of the primers are staying with the manufacturers because they’re producing cartridges,” the associate said. “If they can’t get primers, they can’t produce cartridges either. Vista owns CCI and Federal, and Vista owns Remington. Hodgdon owns most of the powder brands, so they’ve all got the same issue. Powder is going to the manufacturers to produce the bullets. It’s all a chain deal. Reloaders get the leftovers.”

Sometimes, Stone said, it pays to play a hunch.

“I’m kind of a gambler,” Stone said. “When I saw a primer shortage coming, I gave somebody I’ve never done business with $150,000 up front for primers. When those came in, I gave them another $150,000. That’s a gamble that paid off.”

Even when demand stabilizes, non-endemic factors, like a trucker strike or dock worker strike, can cause a spike in demand and a dip in supply, Stone said.

“Let’s say there’s a trucker strike. There’s no freight coming in. That kind of kills everybody’s plan,” Stone said.

The solution, Stone said, is equivalent to retailer hoarding. He said he buys enough to get him through the lean times. When the supply reflows, he overstocks again.

“The last big shortage was 2013,” Stone said. “I hated it that I ran out, so I over bought. I’ve had primers since 2013. I bought too many then, and I’m glad I did. It’s already paid for.”

With a major supplier intending to devote production for the foreseeable future to a war that has no foreseeable end, the supply of hunting ammo could be tight for years. Stocking up now while supplies and prices are favorable might help see hunters through some upcoming lean times.

If you’ve been shooting for a while, you’ve probably heard the best shooters talk about dry-fire training.

Dry fire training is a practice technique that simulates shooting and manipulating a firearm without using live ammunition. Instead, shooters use an unloaded gun to safely practice their shooting skills virtually anywhere without the expense, noise, and hazards associated with using live rounds.

Dry fire training is important for gun enthusiasts because it helps them become more comfortable, confident, and competent with their firearms while developing ‘muscle memory’ and refining their skills. Those who dry fire often see a dramatic improvement in accuracy, faster shooting speeds, and better overall performance in real-world shooting scenarios.

While many agree dry fire practice is an essential component of any training regimen, many people find dry fire training boring. Shooters rather shoot for live ammo at a range.

This is where dry fire training systems come into the picture.

They can make dry fire practice more efficient, effective, and fun, by providing realistic simulations, immediate feedback, and a wider variety of training scenarios than just using an unloaded gun.

Shooting is a perishable skill, so making dry practice enjoyable helps encourage people to continue practicing.

We’ve used all of the major dry fire training systems in the market, which we’ll be sharing with you later in this article.

But, let’s start with the best dry fire training systems based on our extensive testing.

Let’s get to it…

Top 10 Dry Fire Training Systems You Need to Try

We’ve tried every major dry-fire training tool on the market, and our cadre thinks the following training aids are the best overall.

Each product has its pros and cons that address one or more specific skill sets. Not one product on the market does it all, but each one will help make you a better shooter.

That said, before getting to the list, here are our recommendations based on common use cases and categories:

• Best Overall: Mantis X10 Elite and the Mantis Laser Academy

• Best for AR-15s: Mantis Blackbeard X

• Best for Beginners: SIRT Pistol and Dummy Rounds

• Best for Simulating Recoil: Laser Ammo’s Recoiled Enabled Pistols (if you want to use a training gun) and Coolfire Trainer (for your own gun)

Now, here’s the list of the best dry fire training systems with their key features and benefits.

How Laser-Based Dry Fire Training Systems Can Improve Your Shooting Skills

In our top 10 list, you’ll find quite a few laser-based dry-fire training systems.

They use a laser-emitting cartridge or a laser integrated into a dedicated training gun. When the trigger is squeezed, the laser device emits a brief red, green, or IR laser beam. This laser beam simulates the path of a real bullet and provides instant visual feedback on shot placement and accuracy.

There are two main parts to a common laser-based dry-fire training system:

1. Laser Cartridge or Training Gun: The laser cartridge is a small device inserted into a real firearm’s chamber or attached to the end of specific training gun barrels. Alternatively, some systems use dedicated training guns with integrated lasers, often replicating real firearms’ size, weight, and feel for a more realistic experience.
2. Target or Sensor System: The target can be a simple paper target, reflective stickers, or an electronic sensor system that detects the laser beam when it hits. Some electronic sensor systems can connect to a computer, smartphone, or tablet and use special software to track shot placement, timing, and other performance metrics, providing detailed feedback to the user.

Advantages of Using a Laser-Based Dry-Fire Training System

• Safety: Laser-based systems provide a safe way to practice shooting skills without risking accidental discharge or injury because they don’t shoot a projectile.

• Cost-Effective: Practicing with a laser-based system eliminates the need for purchasing live ammunition, which can be expensive, making it a more cost-effective alternative to live fire training.

• Convenience: Laser-based training systems can be used in various indoor settings, allowing gun owners to practice their shooting skills anytime and anywhere without needing a shooting range.

• Realistic Simulation: Many laser-based systems replicate the size, weight, and feel of real firearms, providing a realistic experience.

• Immediate Feedback: Laser-based systems offer instant visual feedback on shot placement, helping shooters identify areas for improvement. Some systems also provide additional performance metrics through connected software.

• Versatility: Laser-based systems can be used with various firearms and in various training scenarios.

Disadvantages of Using a Laser-Based Dry-Fire Training System

• Lack of Recoil: Most laser-based systems do not simulate the recoil experienced when firing live ammunition, which may limit the development of specific shooting skills that require managing recoil effectively.

• Initial Cost: While laser-based systems save money on ammunition in the long run, they can have a higher upfront cost than just using an unloaded gun for dry fire practice.

• Compatibility: Some laser cartridges are designed for specific calibers, meaning users with multiple firearms may need to purchase different laser cartridges or adapters to practice with each gun. In addition, some laser cartridges may not work with specific laser targets.

• Technical Issues: Electronic sensor systems and related software may occasionally experience technical issues or glitches, which could impact training sessions.

Improve Your Shooting Accuracy with These Computer-Based Dry Fire Training Systems

As referenced in the previous section, some laser training systems work with specialized software applications. Combined with laser-emitting devices or sensors, these applications are computer-based dry-fire training systems that provide detailed feedback on your shooting performance.

Computer-based dry-fire training tools fall into two major categories.

1. Laser Cartridges or Training Guns Combined with Camera System Software: As discussed above, when a shooter fires a laser beam from a laser cartridge or laser training gun, a computer or smartphone captures the laser’s impact point on a target. The camera system sends the captured data to a connected computer, smartphone, or tablet running specialized dry-fire training software. This software processes the data, tracks shot placement, timing, and other performance metrics, providing real-time feedback to the shooter.
2. Sensors Attached to Firearms: Another option uses sensors attached to a firearm that detect the movement of a gun, such as with the Mantis X10 Elite. Sensors collect hundreds, if not thousands, of data points, which computer software analyzes. The software offers various features for analysis, such as displaying shot groupings, calculating accuracy scores, and identifying patterns or areas for improvement. Users can track their progress over time and adjust their training routine based on the feedback provided by the software.

Advantages of Computer-Based Dry-Fire Training Systems

Like laser-based systems, computer-based dry-fire tools offer safety, cost-effectiveness, convenience, real-time feedback, and versatility.

Beyond that, computer-based dry-fire systems provide more detailed analysis and feedback on performance.

Moreover, they provide better progress-tracking features. Shooters can track their progress over time, allowing them to analyze their performance and improvement trends.

Lastly, several software applications will provide you with specific pointers based on areas you need to improve, sometimes offering video instruction, too.

Disadvantages of Computer-Based Dry-Fire Training Systems

Dry-fire training systems, like laser-based tools, can have a high initial cost, lack recoil, and may have compatibility and technical issues.

In addition, there can be a learning curve to using software. Some shooters may find setting up and using a computer-based system challenging, especially if they are not tech-savvy.

Recoil Systems: The Secret Weapon for Effective Dry Fire Training

If you’re serious about firearms training and dry fire, you’ll likely use a recoil-enabled dry fire pistol at some point.

They function a lot like laser pistols, but they also simulate the recoil of a real firearm during dry-fire training, providing a more realistic experience and helping users develop the necessary skills to manage recoil effectively. These systems can either be standalone training guns or attachments that can be added to a real firearm.

Typically, the recoil simulation mechanism relies on compressed gas, such as CO2 or gas, that creates a force that pushes the slide backward, mimicking the recoil experienced during live fire.

Airsoft pistols that have been converted to shoot a laser with every trigger pull are the most common option in the market. They are replicas of real firearms in design and weight, so everything will feel the same when you practice while saving your actual firearm from wear and tear. We like and recommend Laser Ammo’s Recoil Enabled Pistols.

If you want to use your own pistol instead of an airsoft pistol, a great option is the Cool Fire Trainer. It replaces your live fire barrel inside your real pistol, and each trigger squeeze will activate a CO2-powered mechanism to cycle your pistol’s slide and provide recoil (while emitting a laser with each shot).

Advantages of Recoil Systems

The big advantage is the ability to simulate recoil.

One of the challenges to proper dry fire training, in general, is for shooters to use the same technique and grip pressures they would when firing a real gun with live ammo.

When a shooter fires live ammo, they tend to grip harder because of the little explosion in their hands. This is needed to help control the gun.

For the average shooter, during dry fire drills, they may not have a proper grip. They likely aren’t gripping their gun hard enough with the same consistent pressure applied during live fire, which can engrain bad habits during one’s dry fire session.

Using a recoil-enabled pistol will provide some blowback, reminding the shooter to grip their gun as if using a real gun.

In addition, the simulated recoil will make one’s sights or red dot lift/move as if they were shooting live ammo. The shooter must learn to manage this blowback so that their sights return to their target efficiently and effectively, so they can take follow-up shots quickly.

Lastly, recoil systems allow users to practice their trigger control, specifically resetting and prepping their triggers as they would during live fire.

Disadvantages of Recoil Systems

Although recoil-enabled dry-fire pistols provide blowback, the recoil does not match the amount of force applied by ‘real’ recoil.

The recoil impulse from compressed gas is better than nothing and serves as a reminder to grip a firearm properly, but shooters must understand that they need to invest ample time in shooting live ammo to learn how to manage recoil.

Another disadvantage is that any training tool that uses compress gas to simulate recoil must be ‘kept warm’ to use for long periods of time.

For example, airsoft pistols typically use magazines filled with green gas. Initially, a shooter might be able to take 50 to 60 rapid-fire shots before having to refill the magazine.

When one refills the magazine with green gas, they’ll notice it’s cold. The colder the magazine, or wherever compressed gas is being stored, the fewer shots one will be able to take before having to refill the gas again.

Specialized Training Tools That Will Take Your Shooting Skills to the Next Level

Specialized dry-fire training tools are designed to help gun enthusiasts improve specific shooting skills and techniques without using live ammunition. These tools can be used independently or with other dry-fire training systems to enhance the overall training experience.

While some specialized training tools overlap with the preceding categories, specialized tools can offer more focused and in-depth training around a specific skill set or skill sets.

There are several dry fire training systems in our top 10 list above that fall into this category that we highly recommend, namely:

• The DryFireMag: An automatic pistol trigger resetting magazine.

• Laser Ammo’s Smokeless Range 2.0: A virtual range that you can use indoors.

• Laser Ammo’s Reactive Laser Targets: Great, versatile targets to use with all major laser cartridges and laser firearms.

• Dummy Rounds: They are low-cost and provide great training value, especially for beginners.

Are Dry Fire Systems Worth It?

You’re reading this article because you likely understand the value of dry-fire practice. But, you might wonder if these training aids are worth the money.

Dry fire training systems offer many benefits for shooters looking to improve their skills and maintain proficiency without using live ammunition. Here are some of the key features and benefits:

1. Safe Practice: Dry fire training eliminates the need for live ammunition, allowing you to practice shooting skills safely at home or in other non-range environments without the risk of accidental discharge or injury.

2. Cost Savings: Dry fire training systems do not require live ammunition, which can be expensive, especially for regular practice sessions. By eliminating this expense, you can save money while still honing your skills.

3. Convenience: With dry fire training systems, you can practice at your own pace and in the comfort of your home or any suitable space. This eliminates the need to travel to a shooting range and allows for more flexible practice sessions.

4. Real-time Feedback: Many dry-fire training systems provide instant feedback on shot placement, accuracy, and speed, allowing you to identify areas for improvement and adjust your technique more effectively than with traditional dry-fire practice.

5. Customizable Training: Dry fire training systems often include a variety of drills and scenarios designed to improve specific shooting skills. This allows users to tailor their practice sessions to focus on the skills they want to develop.

6. Eco-friendly: Since dry fire training systems do not use live ammunition, they are an environmentally friendly option for practicing shooting skills, reducing lead pollution and waste associated with spent casings.

7. Reduced Wear and Tear: Dry fire training typically causes less wear and tear on your firearm compared to live-fire training. This can help extend the life of your firearm and reduce maintenance costs. For example, when using recoil-enabled pistols, I prefer using airsoft replicas such as those from Laser Ammo.

Tips for Making the Most Out of Your Dry Fire Practice

Whether or not you use any of the products on our list or just an unloaded firearm when dry firing, keep these tips in mind to make the most out of your practice sessions.

1. Have a plan: Before starting your dry fire practice, determine what specific skills you want to focus on, such as trigger control, drawing from a holster, or target transitions. Having clear goals will help you concentrate on the areas that need improvement.

2. Create a dedicated practice space: Designate a specific area in your home or another indoor location for dry fire training. Ensure it’s free from distractions and has enough space for you to perform various drills comfortably.

3. Use a ‘real’ grip: Maintain the exact grip and stance you use during live-fire training to ensure consistency and build muscle memory.

4. Incorporate training aids: Utilize dry-fire training tools, such as the ones we’ve recommended in this article, to enhance your practice session and receive real-time feedback on your performance.

5. Focus on trigger control: Pay close attention to your trigger pull, ensuring a smooth and consistent press without disturbing your iron sights or red dot. This will help improve your accuracy during live-fire sessions.

6. Make dry fire a habit: Establish a regular dry fire training schedule to maintain and improve your shooting skills. Consistent practice is essential to getting better fast. In our War Room community, we conducted a challenge to have members dry fire every day for a month. After the challenge, dry firing became a habit.

7. Mix up your drills and exercises: Vary your drills, exercises, and scenarios to keep your training sessions engaging and challenging. This will help you develop a well-rounded skill set and prevent boredom during practice.

8. Record your progress: Keep track of your performance and improvements over time to stay motivated and identify areas that may require additional focus.

Here’s a video that will help make your dry fire training more realistic.

By following these tips, you can maximize the effectiveness of your dry fire training sessions and continually improve your shooting skills.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does dry firing damage a gun?

Dry firing generally does not cause damage to centerfire guns. These firearms are designed to withstand the impact of the firing pin hitting the chamber without a cartridge in place.

However, for rimfire guns like .22 caliber models, repeated dry firing can potentially cause damage because the firing pin in these guns may strike the edge of the chamber, causing it to degrade over time.

How much should you dry fire per day?

There is no minimum or maximum number of times a day. It will all depend on your time and how much you can remain focused during your practice sessions.

Many serious shooters dry fire at least 15-30 minutes a day, 3-5 times a week. Professional shooters may dry fire daily and for 30 or more minutes each session.

The key is to be consistent, depending on your time and attention span. If you can only dry fire once a week, then be consistent.

Regarding the session length, you can keep going as long as your technique doesn’t get sloppy. If this happens, it’s a good indicator that you should stop for the day.

Can dry fire training improve my shooting?

It absolutely can! I don’t understand those who say they don’t want to dry fire or that they only shoot live ammunition.

The best shooters in the world all dry fire. It allows you to work on practically everything you can when shooting live rounds, except recoil management.

Do I need any special equipment for dry fire training?

Not at all. You can use an unloaded firearm if you want.

That said, I highly recommend using different training tools like the ones on our list.

They will make practice more enjoyable and help you improve faster, especially for beginner to intermediate shooters.

Is dry fire practice effective for both beginners and experienced shooters?

Absolutely. Regardless of your skill level, dry fire practice allows you to get in countless repetitions for free, practically anywhere.

If you use proper technique, each perfect rep will help you improve and burn your movements into your subconscious.

Can dry fire training replace live fire training?

You can accomplish a lot with dry fire training alone, but it will never replace live fire training, regardless of using a laser pistol with an integrated recoil system.

Technology has gone a long way to simulating recoil using compressed gas, but it isn’t the same as live fire when it comes to learning and improving recoil management.

In addition, for a lot of shooters shooting live ammo, the sound of a gun going off (i.e. the bang) and the face that they are using actual ammo can cause stress and anxiety. This can’t really be replicated during dry fire, so shooters need to practice at a live range, too.

Though dry fire training can’t replace live fire training, they complement each other, and serious shooters will do both.

Get Started with the Best Dry Fire Training Systems Today

The best shooters in the world will agree. Dry practice will make you a better shooter.

But, many people find it boring. Dry fire training systems can help make practice fun while helping you improve faster.

We’ve tried practically every major dry fire product, but the list we provided are the best. Check them out and start practicing!

If we left out a major tool that you’ve used, let us know in the comments section below.

Our Comprehensive List of the Dry Fire Training Tools We’ve Used

In coming up with our list of the top dry fire training products, we went through a lot of different tools. Here the the other popular training aids we tested.

When I think of skinning a bear, I’m reminded of one of my favorite hunts with my son in Montana. When he was only 12 years old, he took down a bear with his rifle using the “spot and stalk” method.

Getting within range of those bears and taking the shot is a big challenge. I’m proud of my son for accomplishing that Herculean task, and even prouder of how we skinned that bear together after it was taken down.

Skinning a bear is no easy feat. It takes precision, concentration, and strategy. Don’t worry – we’ve been there and can explain how to do it, step by step.

What to Know Before Skinning a Bear

Skinning a bear is very different from dressing other game. A bear’s anatomy poses certain challenges that all hunters should be aware of. For the purposes of this blog, we’ll focus on how to skin a black bear; however, the following tips also apply to brown bears.

If you’re planning to bring your bear to a taxidermist (or even if you aren’t), it’s important to keep the bear in the best possible condition. The paws are a bear’s most distinguishing feature and must be left on the hide. If you’re a beginner, do not try to skin out the paws yourself — your taxidermist will thank you.

Speaking of the hide, it also needs to be preserved as well as possible. Avoid poking holes in it and ensure it’s clean before delivering it to the taxidermist. This will increase the chances of successful tanning.

How to Prepare to Skin a Bear

Be aware of what you’ll need to deliver to the taxidermist. As mentioned, don’t try to skin out the paws on your own; deliver them attached to the hide.

Next, you must know how to field dress a bear. Game bags are crucial for keeping the meat clean and organized, so be sure to have them at the ready. Clear your surrounding area and drag the bear to a clean spot, keeping dirt off the hide.

Place the bear on pine needles, leaves, or grass to maintain cleanliness. Open garbage bags also help preserve the meat. If it’s hot, move the bear to a shaded area to rapidly cool the hide and carcass.

Along with game and garbage bags, a reliable fixed-blade knife is a must-have. Additionally, carrying some paracord can be useful, especially if you’re on your own and need to secure a leg while you’re skinning a bear.

You won’t need a saw for this job. Your fixed-blade knife can handle everything you need.

How to Skin a Black Bear: Step by Step

Let’s get to the meat of this blog post (pun intended). Here’s how to skin a bear:

1. Lay the bear on its back with its legs spread out (it should resemble a starfish).
2. Once the bear is situated, make a center cut from the anus straight through the bear’s belly to the base of the neck. Then, on the inside portion of the front legs, make a cut from the joint (of the wrist) near the foot up to the armpit area, angling up and forward into the center of the sternum.
3. On the inside of its back legs, cut from the foot joint to the centerline cut you made in step 2.
4. Next, you’ll begin to skin out the front and back quarters. Start on one side of the bear, then move to the other and put it in a game bag.
5. While skinning the legs, cut the joint just above the foot to keep the paw attached to the hide. Then remove that skin from that leg with the paw still attached. Remember, it’s important to keep the paws attached when skinning a bear for a rug or other taxidermy.
6. From that point, skin the hide away from the rest of the carcass, being careful to keep dirt off the hide.
7. Finally, cut through the neck at the base of the skull and remove the bear head from the carcass, but keep it attached to hide.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Skinning a Bear

Resist the temptation to skin the head and paws separately. I cannot emphasize enough that they must stay attached to the hide.

Also, refrain from folding the meat and hide before they completely cool. Hair is a great insulator; it’ll spoil the meat on the inside, and cause hair to fall out of the hide.

Don’t leave too much fat on the hide while skinning a bear. Removing as much fat as possible reduces packing weight. Be careful while you do this — avoid cuts in the hide as well as you can.

Most importantly, only salt the hide after removing all the flesh, as it will make proper mounting nearly impossible.

The post-skinning process is pretty simple: Cool the animal down and get it to your taxidermist as soon as possible. Freezing or storing it in a cooler or on ice in a garbage bag provides optimal conditions for the taxidermist.

How to Skin a Bear: Final Thoughts

Like anything, learning how to skin a bear takes repetition and time. I’ve definitely improved my process since I became a master bladesmith years ago.

Even if you’ve been skinning bears for years, there’s always room to improve, so we encourage you to save this post for future reference. Following these steps and avoiding common mistakes will make a big difference in your skinning practice.

by Josh Smith, Master Bladesmith and Founder of Montana Knife Company

Once there was a time when I laughed at the notion of the AR-15 pistol. That time of laughing has passed, so if you enjoy watching others publicly eat crow, read on.

My brother, Stephen, and I have been debating the merits of AR 15 pistols for some time, so let’s rewind this a bit. My first intro to an AR-15 pistol was some years ago at a gun store that sold NFA items like short barreled rifles (SBRs). I saw an AR-15 pistol and asked where the buttstock was. The shop keeper enlightened me, but I had lingering doubts.

Then I ran across a Kel-Tec PLR-16. It’s not exactly an AR-15 pistol, but it’s close enough in the ergonomics to fit the genre. My biggest question was, “How do you shoot that thing – accurately?” The answer I was given by the gun’s owner was a bit unconvincing: Put a single point sling on it, raise it so that your sight picture becomes apparent while pushing the gun away from you. The tension on the sling will make it stable and good to go. Right. Then he did the opposite. Holding the gun at belly button height, he fired a dozen rounds or so down range at a paper target at an indoor range. Credibility, zero. Even with ear pro on, I decided to leave the range as the muzzle blast he generated was just as ridiculous as his shooting stance.

While my interest in shorter lighter gun configurations was real, the downsides to an AR-15 pistol in my mind were several. For example, the buffer tube sticking out of the rifle all by itself looked silly. I know, looks don’t matter as long as it does its job. And while that’s true, when it comes to spending discretionary dollars, looks DO matter, and the market bears that out.

Awkward looks in this case can translate to awkward ergonomics. When I looked at that first AR-15 pistol in the gun store, stocks were sill longer and bulkier than what’s available today. The mutated shortened pistol configuration was strange to hold, and awkward to use. No chance of anything resembling a proper cheek weld there. And I once believed that unless you perfect your cheek weld, you couldn’t shoot accurately beyond ten yards. Where I came up with that, I don’t know. Maybe some internet commando forum back in the day…

That was a few years ago, and much has changed since then, but not my interest in SBRs. Seriously, I can’t see anything magical about a sixteen inch barrel. The rules are the rules, but for practical purposes a shorter barrel can be a real plus. Put yourself on a four wheeler ATV chasing after pigs, heading for a deer blind or running down coyotes. I’ve slung a 16” AR while riding four wheelers, and it’s a pain. Minus a few inches and we’d be better off, but short of an AR-15 pistol, we’re talking about the expense and rules of access and transport for an NFA registered SBR. Better than not having a short barrel in that case, but a far cry from ideal.

The thing that changed my thinking about an AR-15 pistol was a great looking 300 Blackout version from King’s Arsenal. Yes, it was looks that turned my head and opened my mind. It was the first time I’d met Jordan King, owner of King’s Arsenal. He had a booth at the first ever Silencers Are Legal shoot in Dallas in 2012. Call me shallow, but the smooth sided upper on the billet lower all tricked out with a short barrel and a foam covered buffer tube was magnetic. King talked me through the genius of his creation and then invited me to go shoot it. Much to my surprise, I could hit Tannerite at 100 yards using an Eotech sight! Now I was interested.

Maybe you know the adage, a chicken is interested in making breakfast, but the pig is committed. Shooting with just a short buffer tube was still a bit awkward, though the foam cover was a step forward. So, I was interested. Then my friend Nathan Dudney at DRT Ammo got an AR Pistol that he raved about. Nathan is a smart guy whose job involves dealing with velocities and terminal ballistics. You certainly give up velocity with a short barrel, but Nathan’s enthusiasm got me researching. What I found was that at most common distances I’d shoot at while hunting pigs or in defensive scenarios, I had nothing to worry about from lost velocity with modern ammo.

What pushed me over the edge was a picture sent to me by another good friend, Keith Pitts, founder of Accurate Armory. I’ve known Keith longer than SHWAT™ has been around, and have confidently run his ARs for years. Keith had build an AR pistol for himself, and sent me a picture of it riding easily alongside in a vehicle. I replied with a “must have” kind of note and he built me a beauty to my own specifications. It was cool, but when I added the SigTac pistol brace, it became amazing. Today, Keith prefers the QD Buffer Tube Cover from Thordsen Customs, which I’ve not yet tried out. In any event, with the pistol assembled, it was time to go hunting!

The hunt would be a night hunt, so I chose the Wilcox RAPTAR Lite ES to work in conjunction with a helmet mounted PVS-14. Walking the fields of west Texas in the dark with that considerably lighter than usual configuration was great. My buddy Jared and I were in and out of my jeep looking for pigs. The short length was phenomenal for vehicle entry and egress, not to mention storage when we hopped in to drive to another field. Pigs died that night, and I enjoyed using my .556 AR pistol immensely (read the whole story here).

So once a “hater” I guess I’m now an evangelist. The advantages of a well configured AR pistol are clear. Storage, ease of vehicle entry and egress, weight, maneuverability, they’re all there. From the dead hog pictures, you can see the loss of velocity wasn’t an issue. You can add a silencer and still not be ridiculously long. One of the greatest benefits of an AR pistol over an SBR is the ability to travel outside your state without a permission slip from the ATF. Today, I’d be hard pressed to be more enthusiastic about the platform. I’m planning to add an upgraded trigger and perhaps a Gen 3 Law Tactical folding stock adapter for the ultimate in compact AR platform guns. In my opinion, everyone ought to get set up with an AR Pistol. So Stephen wins the debate, but now I have a sweet AR pistol and he doesn’t. Yet. And that’s how I like to eat my crow!

By Trapline Editor Hal Sullivan

From left to right: Three sizes of coyote trap: No. 1.75 with 5 inches of jaw spread; No. 2 with 5-1/2 inches; No. 3 with 6-1/2 inches.

It’s a perennial question—how big of a trap do I need for coyotes? Seems like someone at every trapping convention I attend asks if he can catch coyotes with the No. 1.5 footholds he already owns and sets for fox and coon, and I hear countless tales of coyotes caught in No. 1.5 traps, all of which are no doubt true.

But if you set out to be a coyote trapper with a bunch of No. 1.5 traps, you’re just setting yourself up for disappointment. The trap is simply too small to be a reliable coyote catcher.

If you want to move up to coyote trapping, you need something a little bigger. That would be the No. 1.75 class of traps. Give or take a little, 1.75 traps have an inside jaw opening of about 5 inches. Some people think this still is too small for coyotes. I disagree. In fact, I catch a lot of coyotes with these traps. I do concede they are the smallest I would want to use for coyotes, and the relatively small jaw spread must be considered when making sets. If a coyote’s foot isn’t pretty much centered in a No. 1.75 when the trap fires, it isn’t going to get a good grip. I take precautions to prevent this.

Solid trap bedding is important with any trap, even more so when setting a trap of this size for a coyote. There’s a good chance the coyote might not step exactly on the trap pan, and if it steps on a jaw, instead, I don’t want that trap to wiggle, or, worse yet, flip up out of the bed.

A coyote is a heavy animal, and its foot exerts a lot of pressure. When I’m checking a bedded trap for stability, I don’t push gently on it, I push hard. If the trap moves, I adjust the bedding until it doesn’t. If a trap moves underfoot, a curious coyote is likely to stop working the set and instead dig up that trap.

I also make the trap bed as small as possible, so I don’t have to repack a lot of loose dirt outside the trap jaws. If this dirt isn’t packed in really well, a heavy-footed coyote may sink into the loose dirt, back off and start digging.

Truth is, you are going to have some misses with these small traps, when the coyote’s foot isn’t centered on the pan within the small radius of the jaws. The trick is not to arouse the coyote’s curiosity, or worse yet, spook it with a poorly bedded trap. If you don’t spook it or educate it, you might catch it on the next step or the next visit. The trick is to make sure everything stays in place until the coyote steps squarely on the trap pan.

I also put a significant amount of tension on the trap pan. If a trap is set exclusively for coyotes, I don’t want it to fire until 4 pounds of downward pressure is being applied by the animal’s foot.

If you’ve never set a trap with 4 pounds of pan tension, you may think it way too much. Four pounds is a lot of weight. You can set a half-gallon plastic jug of water on a trap pan with 4 pounds of tension, and it may not fire. But trust me, when the coyote shifts its weight to that foot, it will be pressing down harder than 4 pounds, and the trap will fire.

If I want to also have a shot at catching a fox, I may back off to 2 or 3 pounds.

This heavy pan tension serves two purposes. First, it prevents the trap firing if perchance the coyote just brushes the pan with the edge of its foot. No. 1.75 traps have a small enough jaw radius that a coyote’s foot may straddle a jaw and still touch the pan. You don’t want the trap to fire at that point, because it won’t get a good hold on the coyote’s foot, if it gets a hold at all. You not only want the coyote’s foot centered on the pan, you also want that foot to be pushing down hard before the trap fires.

Think of it like the diving board at the old swimmin’ hole. If the board is so rotten it breaks when you first touch it with a toe, you’ll still be balanced with your weight on your back foot and probably won’t fall in. But if the board has a little strength left, and you step all the way onto it before it breaks—down you go.

With heavy enough pan tension, by the time the pan breaks free, the coyote has committed enough weight that the foot falls, and the coyote can’t react quickly enough to pull that foot back out. It literally falls into the trap, which helps the little jaws get a better grab on its paw.

Foot guides are the final thing I apply at the set to get the coyote’s foot squarely centered in the trap. Foot guides are small objects placed outside of the set trap’s jaws to help steer the coyote’s foot directly onto the pan. Foot guides should be just big enough that a coyote would be uncomfortable stepping on top of them.

Don’t overdo it and build a wall around the trap. The foot guide is more a subtle hint, something the coyote notices and processes in the back of its mind, just as it does every other time it takes a step.

At a dirthole set, small clods in the dirt pattern make natural foot guides. Otherwise, stones no bigger than a golf ball, small sticks or other debris from nearby the set can be used.

I typically place three foot guides in a triangle around the trap, being careful not to locate any of them above the jaws or over the levers of the trap. Sometimes it’s helpful to put the guides in place before sifting the final covering of dirt or chaff over the set trap.

If a No. 1.75 gets a good grip on a coyote’s paw, it should hold that coyote. You can soup the trap up with four coils and other modifications, but a stock two-coil No. 1.75 should catch the average coyote and also make a pretty good trap for red fox, too, though it may be a little too much for the smaller grays.

If I’m trapping where I’m fairly certain I’m only going to catch coyotes, especially if I am being commissioned to remove said coyotes, I’m going to set a No. 2 trap, the next size up. In general, the No. 2 is a 5-1/2-inch trap as opposed to the No. 1.75, which is a 5-inch trap. A half-inch may not sound like much, but it can make a big difference in the way trap jaws catch and hold a coyote.

Just be aware that there is no industry-wide standard to the numbering system. Some No. 2 traps have a jaw spread no greater than some No. 1.75 traps.

You need to check for yourself.

Here, we also begin to hit legal restrictions on jaw spread. In Ohio, we are not allowed to set a trap on dry land that has an inside jaw measurement greater than 5.625 inches. I check to make sure each No. 2 trap has an inside jaw spread of at least 5.5 inches but no more than 5.625.

Again, buyer beware.

With the No. 2, we enter the realm of dedicated coyote traps, and since I set these traps specifically for coyotes, some of mine are outfitted with Paws-I-Trip, a replacement pan and dog system that produces 3 to 4 pounds of pan tension. It works on mechanical advantage. There is no bolt to tighten, and there is nothing to go out of adjustment.

Yes, it is slightly more tension than I want for a fox, but again, these traps are dedicated to coyotes, and I am not trying to catch fox with them.

When setting this larger trap, I still follow the same rules for careful bedding and foot guides as I follow when setting the No. 1.75. The half-inch of extra jaw spread just provides a bigger working area and an increased chance at getting a good across-the-pad catch on a coyote.

On the upper end of the range of coyote traps are the 6- to 6-1/2-inch traps. The numerical size means even less with traps of this size. It seems trap makers assign No. 3 and No. 4 designations almost at random. Some No. 3 traps are actually larger than some No. 4. Perhaps because of this, some manufacturers instead designate their traps by the actual measured jaw spread, for example 650 for a 6.5-inch trap.

I certainly applaud that choice.

I follow the same setting procedures and don’t think there is much need for a coyote trap larger than 6.5 inches. So, for me, that runs the gamut of coyote traps.

The No. 1.75 is as small as I want to go, but used carefully, it can make a very serviceable trap for coyote and also fox. Bigger traps are less appropriate for fox but better suited for coyotes. Know the law and then decide what is the best fit for you—as well as the local coyotes.

The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .22 LR Long Rifle vs .22 Short ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .22 LR Long Rifle or .22 Short rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .22 LR Long Rifle and .22 Short ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .22 LR Long Rifle Rimfire 1060 100 .22 Short Rimfire 900 50

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, .22 LR Long Rifle rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 1060 feet per second (fps) while .22 Short rounds travel at a velocity of 900 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .22 LR Long Rifle bullets travel 1.2 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .22 Short bullets travel 1 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .22 LR Long Rifle round averages out to 100 ft-lb, while a .22 Short round averages out to about 50 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .22 LR Long Rifle round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 100 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .22 Short round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 50 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .22 LR Long Rifle or .22 Short cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .22 LR Long Rifle and .22 Short ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

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Remember your excitement when you got your first AR-15? If you’re like me, it was memorable! Now imagine something even more so – getting something BIGGER! Yes, it’s just a matter of time before you’ll get the itch to join the “BIG BORE” club. Typically characterized by calibers .44 greater, big bore ARs are a ton of fun to shoot, usually better for hunting and good for the ego! One of these “BIG BORE” bad boys is the 450 Bushmaster, a formidable beast with the ability to provide a one-shot kill at 250 yards. Feel the itch yet? I did, and that .450 Bushmaster became my first entry into the Big Bore Club.

The 450 Bushmaster DNA goes back to the legendary Col. Jeff Cooper and his disdain for the .223 caliber AR-15 platform. Cooper was convinced of the need to go bigger. He envisioned a cartridge for big game hunting out to 250 yards. That idea inspired Tim LeGendre of LeMag Firearms, LLC to develop the “.45 Professional Cartridge” which would utilize .452 projectiles.

Later, LeGendre licensed the .45 Professional to Bushmaster Firearms International. Bushmaster teamed up with Hornady Ammunition to produce it. Hornady wanted to modify the original concept to incorporate its 250 grain Super Shock Tip (SST) bullet. This forced a compromise to shorten the cartridge case and the Bushmaster 450 was born.

I’ve used Hornady ammo for years in most of my traditional hunting rifles, so the decision for me was simple. The .452” 250 grain FTX features Hornady’s Flex Tip technology is a solid choice. It provides great velocity and devastating energy out to 300 yards. It has a ballistic coefficient .210 and 2200 feet per second muzzle velocity. These FTX bullets (this one is built for the .45 Colt) are designed to have a much higher BC than normal flat-nosed bullets standard in those types of cartridges. The FTX bullets are somewhat soft and offer very good expansion, but are not the best bullets for the toughest game. In North America they are suitable for anything but brown or polar bears, and perhaps bison.

Zeroed at around 175 yards, this load is easily a 200 yard load without worrying much about hold overs.

Remington also jumped into the mix and now provides several options for the .450 Bushmaster. For reloading, the 275 grain Barnes XPB has a .215 ballistic coefficient. Designed for the increased muzzle velocity and long barrels available on .460 S&W hunting pistols, this Barnes solid projectile is a game-changer for the .450 Bushmaster. This is the load I would choose if I were using the .450 BM in bear country. Trajectory is basically identical to the Hornady 250 grain FTX load at practical ranges, so the same zero could be used for both in most cases. Zeroed around 175 yards, you would be in the kill zone out to 200 yards without holding under or over.

Also useful to reloaders is the Remington 260 grain Core Lokt Ultra Bonded bullet with its .144 ballistic coefficient. Core Lokt bullets have a strong reputation for being consistent performers. They may not be the flashiest new technology, but they have been working reliably for generations. They perform well at modest velocities, and it is hard to go wrong with a Core Lokt in any caliber.

This is a good tree-stand cartridge, and should roll up a pig nicely. Within reasonable ranges it will be fine for black bear, elk, or moose. It does not have quite as flat a trajectory as some of the others, but this is not a long-range cartridge anyway. Even if velocities are low for reliable expansion at longer ranges, a .45 caliber bullet doesn’t usually need much expansion.

For loaded ammo, Remington makes their 260 grain Premier Accutip. It certainly looks cool, but I can’t find the ballistic coefficient specs for this bullet anywhere. With a muzzle velocity of 2180 feet per second, Remington says it is the most accurate .45 caliber bullet ever made. It looks like this bullet performs on game about the same as the Hornady FTX bullet does, so it should be fine for anything up to moose or black bear. Like Remington’s Golden Sabre loads, this one has a brass jacket that is cut for expansion.

My introduction to Big Bore ARs was more luck than general curiosity. A few years ago, the Indiana Department of Natural Resources added three very popular hunting cartridges to its deer hunting approved list. The 450 Bushmaster, .458 SOCOM and .50 Beowulf made their way into regulation. I’d imagine every Hoosier with an AR started salivating at the opportunity of using his or her AR to hunt deer.

It took me several months of research to decide on which big bore caliber upper to purchase. At first, I was set on the .458 SOCOM, but at the time, ammo availability and pricing held me back from going that route. The 450’s strong following, ammo availability and pricing won me over and the rest is history.

I ordered the 450 Bushmaster upper from Rock River Arms since it works with my standard mil-spec 5.56/.223 receiver. No modification of the lower receiver was necessary and it comes with a 5 round Bushmaster magazine with a 450 follower. I had an extra EOTech XPS Holographic Sight available, so my upper setup was done within minutes.

The Hornady 250 grain bullet I used provides a flat trajectory out to 150 yards. With a fifty yard zero the the drop is only 1.7″ at 150 yards. With a 175 yard zero, it stays just inside the kill zone from 2.7″ high at 100 to 2.5″ low at 200 yards. This is an excellent setup for deer hunters who use tree climbers and shoot within a limited range. There is no need to memorize hold overs. Just point and shoot!

After months of waiting it was time to get some trigger time with the 450. The ballistics tables will only tell me so much and I was really curious how a “big bore” rifle would shoot. Admittedly, the ammo itself is visually intimidating and the stories I’d heard of this beast had me a little apprehensive.

My range day with the 450 was very different from what I’d expected. The anticipated bang and shock was nothing close to what I’d imagined. Much of the felt recoil was mitigated by the factory installed Izzy Muzzle Brake. My zero session at 50 yards was fun and effortless. I followed up with another half a dozen shots at 100 yards just for good measure. The “big bore” weapon system’s setup and Hornady accuracy gave me a strong sense of satisfaction and confidence. The real test was in November, deer hunting in Indiana. Here’s where the performance really showed >>>

Editor’s note: Special THANKS to Dylan Saunders for his assistance with this story.

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