If you’ve ever tasted gin, you know what juniper berries taste like. The flavor is sometimes described as citrusy and evergreen, sometimes as reminiscent of rosemary. Juniper fruit has both bitter and sweet overtones. It’s complex, and useful for flavoring much more than gin.

Technically, juniper berries are cones, but they’re soft, fleshy cones, rather than the more familiar, hard, spiky cones. Since this isn’t a botany class, let’s just call them berries for the sake of conversation.

The fruit of common juniper (Juniperus communis) is generally considered to be the most flavorful juniper berry, but J. virginiana (eastern red cedar) also produces tasty, edible berries. These are the two most common species in the U.S.

Juniper fruit takes about two years to ripen, so it’s not unusual to find both green (unripe) and purple/blue (ripe) fruit on the tree at the same time. And while a ripe fruit makes an excellent trail nibble, an unripe fruit is intensely bitter and unpleasant. I use them to make cocktail bitters, but not for eating out of hand.

You can buy dried juniper berries in the spice section of a good market, but it’s so easy to harvest your own, you’d be crazy not to give it a try. Plus, who knows how long those store-bought berries have been sitting on the shelf? When you forage for your own juniper, you’ll know exactly how fresh and flavorful they are.

The flavor of fresh juniper fruit is juicy and complex. Dried berries aren’t juicy, but they are spicy and enticing. Fresh or dry, juniper berries have a strong flavor, so use them in moderation. Just a few berries, coarsely ground in a mortar with a pestle, are enough to flavor an entire batch of sauerkraut. They also make a great glaze for cookies and a super-simple fermented beverage called smreka.

I’m often asked if juniper berries are safe to eat, and there’s some controversy about this subject. If eaten in huge quantities over an extended period of time, juniper berries may be toxic. But don’t let this alarm you unnecessarily.

The same can be said of other common cooking spices. For example, consuming large quantities of cassia cinnamon gives you too much coumarin, which may harm your liver and kidneys. But no one warns you not to bake with cinnamon. Because the amount we use in baking is generally safe. In the same way, using most juniper berries as a flavoring in dry rubs and marinades is perfectly safe, unless you have a specific allergy.

There is one juniper (Juniperus sabina) that may be dangerous when eaten, but scientific literature on the subject is frustratingly incomplete. Studies have been made of both the bark and essential oil of J. sabina. The amount of essential oil estimated as harmful to humans is approximately one gram. Unfortunately, this doesn’t take body weight into account and that is clearly relevant. One gram of a chemical constituent is going to have a different effect on a 200 pound man than it will on a 70 pound child. But even if we accept the one gram figure, this is considerably more essential oil than you would get in a few berries. And humans aren’t grazing on juniper bark the way livestock is.

An FDA abstract says that the fruit of J. sabina has high concentrations of several potentially dangerous phytochemicals, but is inconclusive. Here’s how it ends: “The quantity of toxic ingredients, sabinene and sabinol, in gin were unknown. Neither was anything known concerning their toxicity to man. In fact, no formal studies had ever been carried out on the chronic toxicity of these materials.”

J. sabina isn’t native to this country (although it may be sold as an ornamental), so in the United States you’re more likely to come across safe junipers like J. virginiana and J. communis if you’re foraging in the wild. I feel completely safe using the fruit of both of these plants in moderation. You, dear reader, will have to decide for yourself what you feel comfortable with. I hope you’ll taste a fruit before you decide.

Interested in pushing past the 100-yard line? Want to get into long range shooting but are confused with all the terminology and myths surrounding it?

Today’s goal is to get you to a solid starting place to build and improve on for years to come.

We’ll lay out some of our recommended rifles for beginner precision shooters as well as point out other considerations to think about when choosing your first precision rifle.

So, keep reading to learn more about what you’ll need to get those long-range shots!

THE QUICK LIST

Best Long Range & Precision Rifles

1. Tikka T3X CTR

From the factory, the CTR comes with quite a few desirable features.

A hammer-forged and threaded barrel makes for an accurate shooter ready to accept a suppressor. That’s almost a requirement these days.

The action is straight enough to accept aftermarket pre-fit barrels without any machine work needed.

Not to mention, the scope base uses lugs and screws for attachment. This creates a rock-solid attachment system.

The safety locks the bolt in place, preventing any unwanted opening, and that’s especially handy if you use it as a hunting rifle.

Its stock is a bit basic, but it’s sturdy enough to prevent flex, lending to an accurate rifle.

Personally, I consider the CTR a phenomenal starter rifle since they’re very accurate out-of-the-box.

But don’t worry; you can upgrade this series with a plethora of aftermarket parts.

2. Tikka T3X TAC A1

The T3X TAC A1 is the bigger, more well-featured brother of the CTR.

It uses the same action and barrel but adds a few tricks…

Starting from the front, it sports a threaded barrel with a large 3-port brake. This brake reduces recoil but can also be removed for suppressor use.

A 2-stage, adjustable weight trigger, replaces the standard Tikka trigger.

But the biggest and most noticeable feature is the chassis. It offers an M-LOK forend upfront for attaching all the accessories you want.

This rifle also brings aluminum bedding blocks for the action.

And the factory grip is comfortable but can also be swapped for your favorite AR-pattern grip. We prefer versatility at PPT!

The rear end features a folding stock that is adjustable for length-of-pull and comb height. But it uses a standard AR-15 interface…you know that means…

It can be swapped for your preferred stock.

3. Ruger Precision Rifle

Ruger jumped into the precision rifle world with the Ruger Precision Rifle, and they knocked it out of the park!

With the growing popularity of precision rifle matches, Ruger reached out to some of the experts in the field to collaborate on a rifle. And the RPR was born.

This is truly the AR-15 of the bolt-rifle world…a list of aftermarket parts would require its own lengthy article.

From the factory, it comes with a threaded barrel, all sitting on a cold hammer-forged 5R rifled barrel.

An aluminum M-LOK forend accompanies the front of the gun for attaching accessories.

One of the key features of this rifle, though, is its magazine adaptability. It will easily handle DPMS pattern, Magpul PMAGS, and industry-standard AICS mags.

An adjustable trigger, standard AR-15 safety, and grip complete the fire controls.

Moving on, it comes with a fully adjustable, folding buttstock. This stock is adjustable for both length-of-pull and comb height.

And it uses a standard AR-15 interface, so the RPR works with any aftermarket option.

Oh, and did we mention that the Ruger Precision Rimfire makes an excellent trainer rifle that will keep things consistent but cut down on ammo costs.

4. Bergara B-14 HMR

The Bergara B-14 HMR rifle hits every mark for anyone that wants a solid crossover platform.

A number of people have gotten into the precision rifle game to further their skills in the field, and instead of building two separate rifles…why not buy one that can perform at the distance range and the hunting field? It just makes sense.

Like some other models, the B-14 HMR offers a match-grade threaded barrel with a thread protector. You’ll have to supply your own break if you want one, though.

The receiver is patterned after the Remington 700, which means it accepts any Remington 700 base or aftermarket stock.

A match-grade trigger adds to the features.

Its factory stock features an aluminum mini chassis for accuracy and molded-in QD flush cups for your favorite sling.

Length-of-pull and comb height adjustments help fit the rifle to any shooter. Bergara also offers a matching .22 LR training rifle for cheap practice.

5. Accuracy International AT

Alright, guys, here it is, my one wild card…

Accuracy International’s AT is the next generation of the wildly popular Accuracy International Arctic Warfare — one of the most widely issued military sniper rifles in the world.

While many aftermarket parts are available right out of the box, this rifle needs no improvement.

For starters, it provides a match-grade threaded barrel fitted to the receiver with AI’s quick loc system.

Ever wanted to change calibers at the drop of a hat?

Well, now you can. The quick loc system barrels make swapping calibers easy with just a 4mm hex key and about two minutes of time.

This rifle’s receiver is flat-bottomed and bonded to a rigid aluminum chassis, and the bolt features six lugs and a short and fast 60-degree throw.

A match-grade 2-stage trigger helps you realize all of the rifle’s accuracy potential.

The AT also delivers a 3-position safety with some unique features. Position one is safe, locking the bolt in place and rendering the trigger safe, while position two keeps the trigger safe but allows you to run the bolt to safely unload the rifle. And position three is fire.

Covering the aluminum chassis is a set of molded plastic skins that users can switch out for any color they desire.

The stock also features multiple sling attachment points in either a folder or fixed version.

If all you want to do for a rifle is mount a quality optic and get to shooting, the AT proves hard to beat.

Dependability and consistency are the hallmarks of the AT line of rifles.

.308 Winchester vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Which Caliber Is Better for Long Range Shooting?

.308 Winchester has been the go-to standard in long range shooting for the last half-century for a few reasons…

Tons of available match ammo and regular plinking ammo exist for it — from match grade to surplus. If you decide to reload your own ammo down the road, an abundance of bullets and reloading data is available…more so than nearly any other round.

But how do you save money when shooting this round? Keep your expensive match ammo for the longer distances and use cheaper surplus ammo for close-in positional work.

6.5 Creedmoor

What about 6.5 Creedmoor?

6.5 Creedmoor is the newer, cooler kid on the block. It pushes out farther and drops less than a .308.

Factory match-grade ammo is available with good quality. While overall ammo choices and reloading data aren’t as prevalent as a .308, quality ammo is still readily available.

So, which do you choose — .308 Win or 6.5CM?

Honestly, both options are proven choices for beginners.

Twist Rates & Precision Shooting

I’m sure everyone has seen the markings on the side of a rifle barrel — 1/10, 1/8 — but what do these numbers mean?

Basically, it refers to the length of the barrel required to make one full turn of the rifling. So, 1/10 would translate to 1 full turn in 10 inches of barrel length.

Twist rates are important because they stabilize the bullet at longer ranges, especially when it starts going into the trans-sonic and sub-sonic territory.

For a beginner rifle, you want something with a very versatile twist rate as you try different ammunition or handloads to find your preferred ammo.

With a .308 Win, a 1/10 twist is generally preferred. Over the course of my career with precision rifles, I’ve never run across a bullet that won’t perform well in a 1/10.

On the other hand, with a 6.5 Creedmoor, a 1/8 twist will be your most versatile option. All of the lighter weight hunting bullets up to the heavier precision rifle bullets will perform well with this twist rate.

Upgrading a Precision or Long-Range Rifle

This is going to be a big one…

Since this is a beginner rifle article, you’ll probably want to upgrade and accessorize. One trip to your local, long-distance range or precision rifle match, and you’ll be dreaming of new parts.

From stocks, chassis systems, magazines, triggers, and even barrels…using a rifle platform that can be upgraded with aftermarket parts is huge!

Accessories like bases, rings, bipods, and stocks can make or break a rifle. I’m not saying you have to buy the most expensive accessories, but solid quality parts will keep your rifle performing, and you focused on the target.

Since you need to see what you’re aiming at, a good scope is an absolute must.

Yet again, the most expensive is not always needed. With the rising popularity of distance shooting, a lot of companies have started to produce solid optics at very reasonable pricing.

When shopping, match the reticle to the task — a duplex hunting reticle will not do any good when trying to do holdovers at distance.

And try not to overdo the magnification — believe it or not, too much can hinder you. A good 3-18 or 5-25 can cover most situations.

Lastly, repeatable adjustments are a necessity. They keep your rifle and you consistent at longer distances.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Precision Rifle

Know Your Goal

My best piece of advice for anyone wanting to get into the long-range game is to have a clear idea of the end goal.

I’ve seen many people buy the hot commodity of the week that doesn’t fit with what they need in a rifle. This is a costly, aggravating path to take.

Easy Maintenance

One of my biggest priority’s when it comes to rifle selection is being able to maintain it.

That means having the ability to swap major parts like triggers, barrels, and stocks without taking it to a gunsmith.

Maintaining out-of-the-box accuracy without any additional expenses accurizing or bedding is a big factor. Personally, I want the ability to do the work at my own workbench, and you probably do too.

Price

Long range set-ups can run a little more than your average rifle, but with the out-of-box features and adaptability, a little investment up front will save you a lot of money in the long run.

Conclusion

With a bit of planning and forethought, the path to precision rifle shooting can be a fun and rewarding journey.

Hopefully, we’ve given you a good list of rifles to consider when shopping and some other considerations to factor in when making that final selection.

What are your favorite long range rifles? Let us know in the comments below. Need some scope recommendations? Check out our guide to the Best Long Range Scopes.

If you have damage to your neoprene stockingfeet use these tips to find and repair the hole. Neoprene stockingfeet on fishing waders can get punctured by things such as stepping on sharp rocks or gravel or from using worn out boots causing puncures or abrasion. Old worn out boots will damage neoprene stockingfeet when the liner is worn down and sharp edges are exposed. This can lead to damage on the top, toe, or bottom of the stockingfoot. Repairs are fairly easy and will hold up well if done correctly.

What you’ll need:

• A water source for testing and somewhere dry to hang the waders.
• Regular Aquaseal (not UV) or Aquaseal NEO.
• Masking tape or Tenacious Tape.
• Cardstock or a business card and latex gloves.

Step by step instructions for repairing fishing wader neoprene stockingfeet

Find the hole. The first step is to look for differences in the area that seems to be letting water through. If you can see an indentation, or abrasion in the neoprene is a good indication that something is wrong in that spot. A surefire way to test the feet is to turn the waders inside out and fill the feet with water. Usually hanging the waders while doing this is the easiest way to control the flow of water when filling the inside. If there is a hole you’ll see water dripping out of it.

Next step; Fix the hole. Once the waders are dry this can be accomplished simply by rubbing a small amount of Aquaseal or Aquaseal NEO into the hole, making sure to rub it into the hole so that it fills the inside of the hole. We recommend backing the inside with some masking tape or Gearaid Tenacious Tape, and then filling the hole from the outside. Once it’s full and Aquaseal fills the hole apply a thin layer out to about 1/4-1/2″ on all sides of the hole. We like to apply a small piece of Tenacious Tape over the Aquaseal at this point, which will be removed later, to make a clean and smooth exterior to the patch.

Final step; Go fishing!

Popular DRYFT wading products

Have you just purchased your first bow sight and you need to sight it in?

What are the right sight marks for you?

What is the best way to sight-in your bow?

The only way to find out is to get out there and start somewhere, and we’ll show you where that is.

We’ll discuss common distances used to set your pins as well as our favorite way to sight in your bow.

What Distances to Sight in Pins on Your Bow?

What is the best distance to sight in your bow? You’ll find various answers here and there according to the preferences of the person providing the advice. We’ll lead you straight as the best distances for you will depend on a few things:

• Draw weight/bow speed
• Type of bow hunting
• Personal preference for maximum shooting distances

All these factors will be addressed as we discuss the most commonly used sight marks for many bow shooters.

Top Pin Setting

The most common top pin setting for both timber and the open fields is 20 yards.

These days, most compound bows are fast enough to see very little difference in arrow trajectory between 10-20 yards. When this is the case, the first pin is usually set at 20 yards that also serves as a pin for 10-25 yard distances. You may be a few inches high when using the 20-yard pin for a 10-yard shot, and you may be a few inches low for a 25-yard shot.

To enable accurate and precise shots using your 20-yard pin this way, you’ll have to know how your bow, arrows, and sight setup will perform. Get to shooting off some arrows!

Do you have a 5-inch difference or more? Do you need to start with a 10-yard pin instead? If you’re shooting from a tree stand, you just might. You must also know the positions and kill-zone sizes of your game if you’re a hunter.

Low poundage bows that includes 40lb draw weights will require a top pin that should be set for 10 or 15 yards. It’s about shot placement that includes getting close enough to your target with it in a position to take an ethical shot.

Factors to think about:

• How fast is your bow?
• Where and what are you shooting?
• Become proficient with setup to predict how it performs between 10-25 yards.
• See instructions for your bow sight if there is a recommended top pin distance.

5-Yard Distance Increments

You may see some shooters with sight marks in 5-yard increments. An example includes: 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, and 40 and other similar variations. Again, personal preference is the rule here.

Consistent 5-yard increments are usually seen on sights that have 5 to 7 or more pins, and there are both pros and cons to this pin setup.

Advantages include less gap shooting, pin for every reasonable distance, and smaller yardage increments for confident shooting.

However, the disadvantages can outweigh the benefits. When increments are small, and you have a generally fast bow, the pins will be stacked very close together. It’s likely you will choose the wrong pin to shoot with.

Pins too close together can also block out a significant amount of the target. The more pins you have, the more it clutters your field of view.

10-Yard Distance Increments

Even 10-yard distances are the most common and versatile setup for hunters for many types of prey in the field. It may start with a 20-yard pin and continue from there, or it may start with a 15 or 25-yard pin and follow suit.

10-yard increments allow enough space between the pins to adequately see the target and to appropriately shoot the gaps when necessary. However, difficulty in achieving accuracy and precision at ranges further than 50 yards increases especially when you gap shoot. When you extend your pins out to longer distances, arrow drop, user error, and form issues are magnified.

Holding over or holding under isn’t so easy to do when you’re cold, hungry, tired, or you’re pumping with adrenaline due to the 10-point buck that just came into view 30 or so odd yards away. It may now be helpful to split the distance in 5-yard increments for the bottom pins such as 20, 30, 40, 45, and 50 or 20, 30, 35, 40, and 45. Find the variation that works for your bow setup and your shooting style.

Think about:

• How many pins should be in your 10-yard increment setup?
• What maximum distance are you comfortable and skilled enough at to make an ethical shot?

The more pins you have, the further you can shoot out in practice whether you realistically take shots out this far in the field. Practicing at 60 and 70 yards can make your 20-40 yard groupings tighter and easier to make. However, it does clutter your sight picture and it may encourage you to take shots you shouldn’t in the field.

Where is the Middle Ground?

The middle ground is more about having the right number of pins for your setup. There’s no need to clutter your sight picture with more pins than you realistically use in the field.

A general rule of thumb is 3 pins for many hunting applications, and 5 pins for Western or long shot hunting. Of course, there are hunters that do very well with a single pin bow sight to eliminate the process of gap shooting altogether. Where do you sit in the single vs multi-pin debate?

If you’re one of those hunters who push your bottom pins down as far as they can go to get them out of the way, but you keep them for the “just in case” moment, a fixed pin with a floater bow sight would serve you better.

Many times, the bow sight manufacturer will recommend in the setup and sighting-in instructions what distance the first pin should be set with and the distance increments for the following pins.

While 10-yard increments are certainly the standard and is a versatile setup, the goal is to find what setup works best for you. You won’t know it until you get out there and start practicing.

How to Sight-In a Bow

General Preparation Instructions for Sighting In

• Mount your sight to your bow.
• Be prepared to spread out sighting-in process over a course of several days due to fatigue that can compromise everything from correct form to accuracy.
• Have necessary gear and equipment ready i.e. targets, arrows, appropriate laser rangefinder, etc.
• Safety first: ensure you have the appropriate backstops and area clearance to shoot.
• Start close to the target: 10 yards to get on paper and to reduce adjustment issues later.
• Adjust in small increments at a time.
• Have Allen wrenches or required tools to make adjustments to sight.
• We like the “one axis at a time” method of sighting in. This process may incorporate use of leveled tape in the shape of a sideways “T”, as a cross, or any target that helps to focus the eye to aim in straight lines.

How to Sight In With a Fixed Pin Bow Sight

1. Stand approximately 10 yards away from your T target. Starting with the windage axis (left/right), you will want to aim for the vertical part of the target. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line.

1. Examine the arrows position in relation to the vertical line of the T. Being this close to the target, you want to make sure you’re as dead-on the center of the line as possible. Margins of error will be magnified when you step back to fine-tune your adjustments at longer distances.

1. To make adjustments, follow the arrow. If your arrows are left of the T, make an adjustment to move the entire sight housing If your arrows are right of the T, make an adjustment to move right.

1. Repeat this process until your arrows are dead-on center on the vertical line.

1. Stand approximately 10 yards away from your T target. If necessary, move the top pin high up towards the top of the housing to leave enough adjustment room for the remaining pins on sights with 5-7 pins. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line using your top pin as an aiming point for the horizontal part of the target to begin adjustments for the elevation axis (up/down).

1. Examine the arrows position in relation to the horizontal line of the T. You don’t have to be so precise with this at 10 yards. If the arrows are further than 6 inches of the line, follow the arrow to make adjustments by moving the entire sight housing. If your arrows are above the line, make an adjustment to move the sight up. If your arrows are below the line, make an adjustment to move the sight down.

1. Repeat this process until your arrows are within 6 inches of the horizontal line.

1. Step back to the distance you want to set your first pin for which is likely 20 yards. The top pin is the only pin you can set by moving the entire sight housing at this point in the process. Let off 3-5 arrows aiming with your top pin to hit dead-on the center of the horizontal line as possible. Now is the time to be precise with your adjustments by moving the entire sight housing up or down.

1. Once you’re hitting dead-on with your 20-yard pin, it’s time to sight-in the remaining pins which will all be adjusted individually. Typically, the next pins will be set for 30, 40, and 50 yards, if applicable. Stand at the distance you want to set your next pin for, let off 3-5 arrows using the appropriate pin to aim with and shoot for the horizontal line of the target.

1. Examine the arrows in relation to the horizontal line of the T. Be precise in making individual adjustments for the appropriate pin. Again, follow the arrow. When you’re successfully hitting the center of the line, it’s time to move to the next pin until all remaining pins are set for their distance.

1. Go back to 30 yards and let off 3-5 arrows for the vertical line to fine-tune your windage (left/right) axis with any adjustments if needed. You might notice you may be slightly off at 30 yards since variations in accuracy are magnified at longer distances.

1. Fine-tune any adjustments by double checking you’re consistently hitting the lines at your set pin distances. If you need to make any fine-tuning adjustments to your 20-yard pin at this point, do it by adjusting the individual pin, not by moving the entire sight housing.

How to Sight In a Bow Sight With 1 Pin

Each manufacturer and model of single-pin sights will have slightly different sighting-in instructions and sight tapes provided. It’s important to follow the setup recommended by the manufacturer to achieve maximum potential and accuracy from your sight.

A well-accepted method is the 20/60 setup which we’ll explain below.

1. Stand approximately 10 yards away from your T target. Starting with the windage axis (left/right), you will want to aim for the vertical part of the target. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line.

1. Examine the arrows position in relation to the vertical line of the T. Being this close to the target, you want to make sure you’re as dead-on the center of the line as possible since margins of error will be magnified when you step back to fine-tune your adjustments at longer distances.

1. To make adjustments, follow the arrow. If your arrows are left of the T, make an adjustment to move the entire sight housing If your arrows are right of the T, make an adjustment to move right.

1. Repeat this process until your arrows are dead-on center on the vertical line.

1. If you’re using calibration tape provided by the manufacturer, go ahead and stick it on your wheel or bar now. Turn the wheel or knob all the way to the top until it stops. Stand 20 yards away from your T target. Let off 3-5 arrows in a line using your pin as an aiming point for the horizontal part of the target to begin adjustments.

1. Follow the arrow. If you’re low, turn the wheel/knob down in small increments at a time. Repeat this process until your arrows are dead-on center on the horizontal line.

1. If using calibration tape, note the reference number the indicator is lined up with as this is your 20-yard mark. If not, use a pencil or marker to mark where your 20-yard mark is.

1. Step back in 10 yards at a time to sight-in for 30, 40, and 50 yards. Dial down the wheel/knob each time you move back.

1. Finally, get sighted-in at 60 yards and make the adjustments necessary by following the arrow. Take note of the reference number the indicator is lined up with or mark this spot as this is your 60-yard mark. Additionally, fine-tune your windage (left/right) axis now to ensure consistent shots.

1. Match the correct sight tape for your markings or number references provided by the manufacturer and apply it to the wheel or bar. Use the sight-tape to double-check you’re hitting consistently at the matched distances.

Put it to the Test!

Once you’re done sighting-in, it’s time to pull out the 3D and 10-ring targets and put your skills to the test. You may be surprised to find your groups are tighter than ever. But, is this the only way to sight in a bow?

Everyone may use a slightly different sighting-in method, the same way they may use different distances to sight in their pins. Some may adjust for both left/right at the same time as they’re adjusting for up/down shots. It happens to be the mainstream way of adjusting especially when using traditional 10-ring targets.

Use the system you’re most familiar with. Get to know what distances or sight-in method you like best by getting out there and nocking some rounds. Sight in and shoot sharp!

Further Reading

• How to Measure Scope Ring Height (With Pics & Calculations)
• How to Adjust a Rifle Scope: 6 Scope Adjustments Explained!
• How to Level a Scope on a Rifle [Step-by-Step With Pics]
• What is a Rifle Scope Ruler (Mildot Master) & How to Use It?
• What is a Prism Scope? Prism VS Reflex VS LPVO!

I’ve always loved Halloween, and I usually do something “seasonal” when it comes around. As a disclaimer, I have to tell you that if you’re one of my vegetarian or vegan friends, you’ll probably want to skip this one. If you eat meat, and you appreciate the interesting odd tidbit, you may find it interesting, as I did.

Most of you will know that there are a lot of deer in America, and that human-deer conflicts from overpopulation can be an issue in some places. In a way we’ve created a new, almost perfect habitat for wild creatures to find food. We all know racoons are adept at opening garbage cans. Squirrels love nuts, but also don’t mind a slice of old pizza.

Bears (on my mind as I’m getting ready for an off-grid trip into the British Canadian Wilderness as I write this) are well known for being adaptive carnivores. And, as my hosta-growing neighbors can tell you, an urban garden and landscaping is a just a giant, 24-hour salad bambi bar.

I’m not even going to try to tackle arguments for or against urban hunting/culling, overpopulation, or the destruction that deer can rue unchecked on local ecology (the more pressing discussion as opposed to ethics, in my mind).

Those arguments are far too deep, sprawling, and often too opaque to cover in 1000 words or so. I do believe that the actions of man have made it so that the population needs to be kept in check, but what the most efficient and humane way to go about that is a gladiatorial arena of opinions and emotions for some.

The reality is that plenty of urban areas have deer culls, and will continue to for the foreseeable future (one location I reference used their cull to donate 8,600 pounds of venison to food shelves-a good byproduct I think). What I’m talking about today involves something much more focused on the meat of deer itself, and the timeline at which they’re harvested.

In Wisconsin and Minnesota, the deer season runs (roughly here, including archery) from late September to mid November. In places where urban deer culls are held, the season may not be in the fall, it might be later in the winter, or nearly spring, or, as in the case of the cull at U-M Dearborn I link to at the end of this post, over Spring break.

Mating season of deer should be around October-Dec. When a hunter harvests a doe, the last thing they probably think about is if she’d been with a buck. If you harvest and butcher one of those does in the spring though, the butchery can be, ahem, more interesting.

So, just so happens I have a friend in Virginia that participates in his local urban deer cull, and it’s in the spring. And, for the past few years, the does he’s harvested have had some extra baggage in their unborn fetuses. So, he sent me one to cook. Thanks Mark.

I’ve always been fascinating by the odd, unusual edible, and, I’m also a passionate consumer of offal and organ meats, so, it’s honestly right up my alley. What I really wanted to know though, was if there was a tradition of eating unborn animals around the world I could find. Besides a casual Reddit mention, I can’t.

But, humans, enterprising beings that we are, have undoubtedly eaten them, although the only historical anecdote I’ve come across is Indigenous people cooking buffalo fetus for the elderly who have problems chewing. At the end of the day, meat, is meat.

Unpacking the cooler my friend overnighted me, I found a little vacuum sealed bag with what looked to be a squirrel inside. For all intents and purposes, I’d assume you could cook a small fetus of similar animals of similar size as you would any small game. And small game is exactly what my unborn deer tasted like.

What does it taste like?

The big question. If you can get past the aversion, which, is, to be blunt, an inculturalized phobia other (non-American) people around the world probably wouldn’t have a problem eating, a deer fetus cooks up like a squirrel or other very small game, and tastes like meltingly tender deer veal. I found it mild, extremely tender and pleasant.

Imagine eating the most tender confit you’ve ever had. It is in no way strong tasting like organ meats or offal. I ate all of it’s organs to compare them with other small game, and found them near-identical to rabbit and squirrel offal in taste, which are all mild and delicious. I often compare small game offal to poultry organs (chicken, pigeon etc) as their size and taste is pretty similar.

Other notes

The proto-skin

Everything is mini, and in the process of being formed at this stage, including the skin, which feels a bit like a layer of translucent fat, and, although it won’t render out anything noticeable, at least from my experience, seems to really insulate the meat and keep it extremely moist. it was delicious, and seemed to melt into the meat per caul fat.

The tiniest of bones

One hurdle will cooking small game is that the bones can be tiny and hard to keep track of. With rare exception, I do not like bones in my soup and I find it off-putting, as will any average dinner guest.

That being said, as it was the size of a large squirrel, it wasn’t going to make a huge meal. With the higher proportion of bones, barbecuing it and slapping it on a bun wasn’t going to work, so I turned to a classic small game recipe: the ol’ Brunswick stew.

Brunswick stew is traditionally made with different types of small game, so it worked out just fine. To bulk the meat out I added 2 smoked pigeons from the freezer, rounded it with some of my favorite heirloom tepary beans from Romona Farms.

I also replaced the now common ketchup or barbecue sauce with a dash of birch syrup and some canned tomatoes. It made for one of the most interesting meals of small game I’ve had to date. If I’ll do it again, I don’t know.

Further Reading

VA Urban Archery Season

Deer Culling in Philadelphia

Spring Break Deer Cull

In the spring of 1989, I sat down to talk with Donald “Buzz” Chamberlain and his wife Betty at their downtown Boscobel antique store. It was one of my first interviews and I was a little nervous about whether people would talk to me.

I didn’t need to worry though. People were more than happy to talk to me about the river and their escapades.

Buzz told me about his record breaking beaver that he trapped on March 28, 1951 at the mouth of the Blue River in Grant County with his buddy Karl Kroll.

Weighing in a 82 pounds, the beaver was big enough to warrant a mention in the Wisconsin Conservation Bulletin (the precursor of Wisconsin Natural Resources Magazine) of June 1951. Buzz is pictured to the right in the photo along with Karl Kroll, who helped him trap the monster animal.

The two used a set trap to capture the beaver. They received $35 for the pelt which was pretty good money for the day.

Chamberlain told me that 1951 with the first year that beaver were trapped in Grant County after a trapping ban. I wondered if the large size of the beaver was related to the trapping ban. I wanted to verify the ban so I went to the State Historical Society (SHS) and checked the hunting regulations for that era. I sat in between the tightly-packed stacks at the SHS library going through the old paper regulations and found one line in the 1949-50 pamphelt regarding Beaver.

Beaver – Season, if any to be established by the Conservation Commission at its December meeting.

Since the pamphelt was inconclusive about a trapping ban, I contacted Jessica Rees Lohr, Wildlife Research Scientist at the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to see if she could solve this mystery.

She put me in touch with Shawn Rossler, DNR furbearer specialist and he stated:

“My recollection is that we (WI) closed the beaver season on and off from 1903-1947. Starting in 1947 or 48, we had some form of beaver season…but I don’t know what years they were regulated or considered unprotected. I believe we had season dates that lasted anywhere from 9 – 200 days…some counties were open and others closed. That said, I don’t have any additional documents to reference that would give us specifics for the opening of Grant County to modern, regulated beaver trapping, unfortunately.”

So what do I believe?

My instinct it is to believe Buzz and that trapping was banned in Grant County in at least one year prior to 1951. That’s not the sort of thing that people just make up.

To absolutely know for sure, I’d have to dig through the Conservation Commission’s notes about trapping in that era. I tried to do this, but found no one at the DNR who would help me. Through an open records request, the DNR sent me the Wisconsin Wildlife Harvest Summary: 1930-2018. In this report, it states beaver harvest information in 1951 for just the top counties in northern Wisconsin: Vilas, Bayfield, Iron, Washburn and Sawyer. The average pelt price was $11.81 so Buzz got a good price for his beaver. Prior to 1951, there is no listing of Grant County as a place where beaver were harvested.

Does this report validate that there was no trapping of beaver in Grant County prior to 1951? Not exactly, but it’s the best that I could come up with.

For now, I choose to believe Buzz and that the large size of the beaver could have resulted from a ban on trapping in the years prior to 1951.

Buzz Chamberlain passed away July 12, 2003. He is buried in the Boscobel Cemetery in Boscobel, Wisconsin.

Chances are the title anecdote is engrained deep in your subconscious, whether you grew up fishing the Chesapeake Bay or simply visited a local tackle shop while passing through the watershed. For those of us that fall into the former category, we likely accepted this as truth largely by way of trust in our mentors, followed by empirical validation of our own. Walk down any aisle in a local tackle shop, however, and you’ll be presented with a wide spectrum of color choices, most if not all of which will catch fish under certain conditions. So, what is it about chartreuse that made this particular color so pervasive that it was immortalized by the late great Lefty Kreh? To be honest, I never truly asked myself this question until I began to look at the problem through the lens of optics. A quick Google search of “if it ain’t chartreuse it ain’t no use” will present similar takes by local experts, so I make no claim to be the first to broach the subject. That being said, let’s consider the results of a simple optical analysis of the subject.

A wise man once taught me to seek simple models that develop physical intuition. Implicit in this statement is that these simple models must be constructed with physics that sufficiently describe the phenomenon which we seek to understand. In this light, let us reduce the complexity of the problem from which we derive such simple pleasure: to elicit a visual reaction strike in the daytime, light rays emanating from the sun must first travel through the vacuum of space for tens of millions of miles before reaching the edge of Earth’s atmosphere. At this interface, worldly optical phenomena begin. Some of these rays are reflected back into space in a mirror-like fashion, while the remainder pass through. Most of the time these rays are bent onto a new path when entering Earth’s atmosphere. For these rays to reach Earth’s surface, they must then travel along a path on which some rays are misdirected and/or plucked from thin air, by a variety of atmospheric constituents such as gaseous molecules and suspended particulate. Each ray of light represents a single color and the number of these rays that are misdirected and/or plucked from thin air depends on that color. As such, the color content at the edge of Earth’s atmosphere will differ from that on the Bay’s surface.

The process described above is again at play when a new interface (such as water) is introduced. The optical model described here therefore considers that rays reaching the Bay’s surface(1) are subject to being reflected, passed through, bent, misdirected(2) and/or plucked from the water column(2) all before being reflected by a lure. A perfect mirror for which all colors are completely reflected has been used instead of a lure of specific color (we’ll assess the effect of this lure choice soon enough). A detector with the daytime color response of the striped bass’ retina(3) has been situated immediately following the perfect mirror to complete the model. This color response is measured by electroretinography and accounts for the fact that not all colors are equal, as far as the striped bass’s retina is concerned. The results of this simple analysis are presented for clean Bay water at a depth of one foot, the average depth of the Bay (21 feet) and the deepest spot in the Bay (174 feet).

At a depth of one foot, most of the color content that was present on the Bay’s surface has persisted and the effect of the color response of the striped bass’ retina is prominent. You’ll notice that the color response of the striped bass’s retina tends to rank colors in the chartreuse band as being most significant, although at this shallow depth most colors are still at your disposal in terms of lure selection. In proceeding to 21 feet, a depth to which you’ve undoubtedly dropped a jig or two, the progressive action of the plankton-filled water column acts like a sponge for blue and red colors. As well, as the pickiness of the striped bass’ retinal color response has begun to turn our perfect mirror into a chartreuse mirror. At a depth of 174 feet, the kind of optical transformation that striped bass dream about has effectively completed.

Not a fan of even the simplest of models without empirical validation? Neither am I. You may take some comfort in that Navy divers at depth in the Long Island Sound most commonly reported white targets as green, white, and yellow(4) – in that order. Keep in mind that that chartreuse is also referred to as yellow-green. Still not convinced? Well I’ll need the help of our community to take this argument further. For the underwater photographers in the audience, I’d like to present an open challenge to get images of a chartreuse and white lure falling into the depths of the Bay, as viewed through a filter corresponding to the color response of the striped bass’s retina.

Let’s take a moment to reflect once more on the title anecdote. Regardless of whether or not striped bass can distinguish between individual colors or their brains simply rank colors differently, you’d best consider choosing a lure color that reflects or misdirects yellow-green, such as chartreuse, if you’re fishing at depth and want to elicit a visible reaction strike. As to the veracity of “if it ain’t chartreuse it ain’t no use,” you already knew that in reality it’s not absolute. To flip the script, you might consider choosing a lure color (such as black) that strongly plucks chartreuse from the available light for optical contrast to the yellow-green aquatic environment.

Don’t get out your pitchforks just yet—I’ll be danged if you see me throwing anything other than chartreuse on the first cast. That is unless we’re talking about fluorescence colors, which don’t play by the same rules…

-By Michael Brupbacher

1. U.S. Department of Energy (DOE)/NREL/ALLIANCE

2. E.O. Hulburt, Optics of distilled and natural water, Journal of The Optical Society of America, 35(11), 1945, 698-705.

3. A.Z. Horodysky, R.W. Brill, E.J. Warrant, J.A. Musick, R.J. Latour, Comparative visual function in four piscivorous fished inhabiting the Chesapeake Bay, The Journal of Experimental Biology, 213, 2010, 1751-1761.

4. J A S. Kinney, S.M. Luria, D.O. Weitzman, Visibility of colors underwater, Journal of the The Optical Society of America, 57(6), 1967, 802-809.

Everyone who visits Yellowstone National Park, especially these days, considers themselves an amateur photographer. They’ve all got a high quality camera attached to the phone in their pocket, and any instance of wildlife needs to be captured.

When a single grizzly bear 200 yards off the side of the road can be enough to stop traffic, then an interaction between a young bear and a young bison is definitely going to get noticed.

That was the case for Michael Daus, who was enjoying a day in Yellowstone with his family and came across this scene. In what ends up being a five-minute filmed ordeal, the bear and bison go at it, fighting mere feet from parked cars, crossing a bridge, and eventually splashing into a river.

Daus allowed the video to be used and published by Jackson Hole EcoTour Adventures, who added some interesting and educational commentary to the clip.

Grizzly Bear versus Bison Filmed at Yellowstone National Park

The incident took place near the Grand Prismatic Overlook trail, which is a particularly popular, and therefore typically crowded, part of Yellowstone Park.

This snippet, taken from the YouTube caption Daus added to the video, gives some more context:

“We knew the bear was in the area, as we saw it near the road, less than a mile before turning into the parking lot for the grand Prismatic Overlook hike. While there was a steady flow of walkers, we carried bear spray and remained on the lookout for the bear the entire time.

“We weren’t crazy about returning to find the bear so close, just beyond the opposite side of the small parking area. We didn’t even see it until we were at our vehicle. I was particularly relieved that the bear seemed more interested in the bison, so while very close to the car, we simply maintained what felt like a safe distance.

“Having lived nearby for decades not minutes, we certainly don’t want our actions or the appearance of our proximity to the animals to set any kind of bad example about approaching wildlife. The camera on this phone boasts a pretty amazing lens and zoom capabilities. So I was able to get all the shots from further than it may appear. The kids enjoyed watching safely from the sunroof of the car. Thanks for the concern, just the same.”

A fight of this magnitude, between two wild animals so revered across the United States and the rest of North America, made it that much more special to capture via video. And honestly, it’s also special because there aren’t 40 alternate angles shot and uploaded to the internet from the crowd that would have certainly been gathered if it were peak season.

In fact, for those who’ve visited Yellowstone and are familiar with the area, like our own Travis Smola, this clip came as a shock.

“I’ve been there a bunch of times, it’s one of the busiest parts of the park,” Smola said when he saw the video. “I can’t believe there weren’t 2,000 people there watching this unfold.”

Yellowstone grizzly bears have been known to prey on bison, as well as elk calves or other ungulates. Yellowstone’s wolf and bear populations are the bison’s only large predators in the Park.

READ MORE: CAT FIGHTS OFF ATTACK FROM THREE COYOTES IN SECURITY CAM FOOTAGE

Air rifles have been around for centuries, but only recently have they become popular in the United States. There are a number of air rifle manufacturers in the country, each with their own unique products. In this blog post, we’ll take a look at some of the best air rifles made in America. Whether you’re looking for a plinking gun or a serious hunting tool, there’s sure to be an American-made air rifle that’s perfect for you.

Air rifle brands made in the USA

Benjamin

Walter Benjamin introduced the first Benjamin air gun in 1882. They were one of many high-powered rifles that came about as a result, but this particular design grew in popularity over time and led to him creating his own company called “Benjamin Gun Company.” The name has since been acquired by Crosman who only helped make it more popular than ever before! There are various styles available with updated technologies for both professionals looking for something classic or enthusiasts wanting new challenges alike – all backed up by 24/7 customer service at Crosman.

Benjamin Airgun selection includes everything from its breakthrough multi-pump pneumatics, break barrels, and even some of the best-precharged pneumatic (PCP) on today’s market (Like the Benjamin Marauder). In addition to their great rifle line up, they also offer a wide variety in pistols as well offering single shots or multiple shots at any time you please!

American Air Arms

Tom Costan had been dreaming of a company that manufactured shooting sports equipment with American labor for years when he finally got his wish. He founded American Air Arms, which specializes in high-quality PCP air rifles and shotguns made from nearly 100% domestic materials – all to ensure customers get only top-grade performance at an affordable price point

Umarex USA

Umarex USA, Inc. is a premier provider of airguns and airgun accessories to North America, designing, developing, and marketing sport shooting products under the RWS, Walther, Hämmerli, Beretta, Colt, Smith & Wesson, HK, Ruger ®, Browning, Makarov, Tactical Force, and Combat Zone brands.
Umarex USA moved into a new 117000 square foot facility in July of 2010 located at Chaffee Crossing in Fort Smith Arkansas. The new facility is home to its warehousing and distribution operations as well as its corporate offices which include marketing sales and a fully staffed customer service department that handles product refurbishment warranty work and technical advice. Future operations at this facility will also include manufacturing.
Umarex sporting guns can be purchased at many retail locations or your local firearm dealer can order them from several firearm distributors.

Airforce Air Guns

AirForce is a company that specializes in creating the most accurate and high-quality air rifles for all types of shooters. With over 20 years of experience, they have built their reputation on being dedicated to only producing American-made products with passion as well as excellence from both manufacturing facilities located around Texas (Fort Worth) and Tennessee( Minor Hill).

(For more on the best air rifles on the market, see this post)