I’ve you’ve seriously injured a deer, elk, or any other wild game, it’s your obligation to track that animal down and harvest it, even if it’s dark out. That’s why we’re here to tell you about the best hunting flashlights of 2024. We want you to get your hands on the exact gear you need for a successful hunt.

Whether you’re tracking animals through the night, performing search and rescue after dark, scaring away bears from camp, or poking around your hunting tent, a proper flashlight is an essential piece of the hunting puzzle.

To help you choose the right option, we scoured hundreds of products in search of the brightest, most powerful, and highest-rated LED torches available today. As a result, we’ve whittled down the industry’s best hunting flashlights to the following ten best options from Fenix, Nitecore, SureFire, Streamlight, and more.

We’ve also taken a deep dive into the critical factors that go into choosing a proper light, like luminosity, throw, run time, and weather resistance. And, to help maximize your purchase, we recommended a few add-on accessories that’ll bring out the best in your light.

Ready to brighten up the night with one of 2024’s best hunting flashlights around?

Let’s get started.

Best Hunting Flashlight for the Money Fenix PD36R

Max Lumens: 1,600 Max Run Time: 115 hours at 30 lumens Batteries: USB-C rechargeable Weight: 5.6 oz Pros: Ergonomic, USB-C rechargeable, incredibly bright for its size, excellent run time, extremely durable and weather resistant, rail mount accessory add-on for guns Cons: Can get hot on turbo mode

The Fenix PD36R is the flashlight I’ll use for the 2024 elk and deer hunting seasons, and I bet it’ll be my go-to torch for many years to come. For my money, it doesn’t get better than this little beast. It does everything I could ask of it.

Straight out of the box, this flashlight feels sturdy and maneuverable in your hand. It’s big enough to get a good grip on and compact enough to clip to your belt unnoticed. It pumps out a powerful beam, has five different brightness settings, and boasts incredible run times thanks to its 5,000 mAh USB-C rechargeable battery.

Because this bad boy has high-end IPX8 water and IPX68 dust resistance, there’s no need to stress if the weather gets nasty or if it falls into the mud. To help out during rifle season, Fenix sells a mounting accessory that allows you to attach and detach the PD36R to your gun’s rail while hunting at dusk.

Thanks to its power, durability, weather resistance, and ergonomic feel, we confidently recommend the Fenix PD36R to hunters of all stripes. It’s highly versatile, too, and would make for a great everyday carry in the offseason.

PRO TIP: Order the PD36R through Fenix’s official website, and they’ll laser-engrave your flashlight with a design and/or custom text for free!

VIEW ON FENIX

USB-Rechargeable Runner Up Nitecore MH25S

Max Lumens: 1,800 Max Run Time: 1,500 hours at 1 lumen Batteries: USB-C rechargeable NL2150 Weight: 5.4 oz Pros: Bright and powerful light with a long throw, USB-C rechargeable, very durable and weather resistant Cons: Could be more ergonomic, turbo mode kills battery life

Nobody loves fumbling around with batteries when their light is losing juice, so we included another powerful USB-C rechargeable option, the Nitecore MH25S. This torch is pretty similar spec-wise to our top overall recommendation, the Fenix PD36R, so you can rest assured it’s good to go.

This bad boy is well-engineered and full of clever features. With 1, 50, 300, 1,050, and 1,800 lumen settings, it packs the brightness to thrive in any environment and has an impressive throw that reaches nearly a third of a mile on its turbo setting. It also has a handy battery indicator, automatic temperature regulation, and can clip to a gun’s rail with a tactical ring accessory.

So, why don’t I recommend the Nitecore MH25S over the Fenix PD36R? For starters, the battery life on the Fenix is slightly better, and it also has a sleeker, more ergonomic design. The Fenix also rings in 30 bucks cheaper than the Nitecore and comes with a free customized engraving.

But don’t overlook the MH25S just yet. It does pack 200 more lumens than the DP36R and has a significantly longer throw. It’s a mighty torch in a compact package and a well-deserved runner-up.

Hunter’s Favorite Do-it-All Flashlight SureFire G2X Pro

Max Lumens: 600 Max Run Time: 52 hours at 15 lumens Batteries: CR123A (2) Weight: 4.4 oz Pros: Comes in four different colors, compact, ergonomic, weapon mountable, very durable Cons: Not as many lumens as we’d like, only two different brightness settings, not USB-rechargeable

This list would be incomplete if I left out the SureFire G2X Pro. It’s a top option among hunters and outdoorsmen and is one of the most widely-used flashlights in the hunting industry. It’s a great all-around torch at an approachable price.

For starters, it’s available in four colors, giving hunters the option to choose a light that’ll match their specific kit. Like the first two lights I mentioned, it’s tough as nails, compact, ergonomic, and weapon mountable. It’s a versatile light that’ll serve you well in the field or as an everyday carry.

But I prefer my Fenix PD36R torch over this one for several reasons. For one, this flashlight uses replaceable CR123A batteries and isn’t USB-rechargeable. It puts out 600 lumens (as opposed to the PD36R‘s 1,600) and only offers two brightness levels (as opposed to five for the Fenix). Specs-wise, it just doesn’t match up.

Overall, the SureFire G2X Pro is a solid little light widely used in the field. Hunters swear by it, and its popularity is something we can’t ignore. No, I won’t swap out my Fenix for this anytime soon, but I imagine it would still get the job done if I did.

Durable, Functional, Available as Rail Mount Streamlight ProTac HL-X | Rail Mount HL-X

Max Lumens: 1,000 Max Run Time: 20 hours at 65 lumens Batteries: Rechargeable 18650 (1) Weight: 6.2 oz Pros: Ergonomic, weather resistant, USB-rechargeable batteries, highly rated for its durability, available as a rail mount for long guns Cons: Battery life isn’t great

Streamlight’s ProTac HL-X is another extremely popular flashlight among hunters and outdoorsmen, and for good reason. It’s powerful, durable, versatile, and also available in a modded version that’ll mount to the rail of your gun.

If you scour through its thousands of five-star reviews, you’ll see why hunters and outdoorsmen love the HL-X: it’s bright, reliable, and serves multiple uses. At 5.5 inches in length and with a max brightness of 1,000 lumens, we think it’s the perfect size and strength to guide you through the dark of the backcountry.

As we mentioned, Streamlight offers a version of the ProTac HL-X that can mount to your gun’s rail. For about $30 extra, this version comes with a built-in mount, retaining clips, and remote switch. Sure, this version would be more practical for tactical and self-defense situations than for hunting big game, but we wanted to highlight it nonetheless.

The ProTac HL-X checks all the boxes for hunters and backcountry explorers alike. We’re not huge fans of its below-average battery life, but other than that, we’re having a hard time finding flaws. Though we still recommend the Fenix PD36R and its optional rail mounting accessory as our top overall option, this light is a no-brainer if you’re a Streamlight fanboy (or girl).

Best Red-Green-Blue-UV Hunting Light Nitecore SRT7GT

Max Lumens: 1,000 Max Run Time: 240 hours at .1 lumens Batteries: 18650 (1) or CR123A (2) Weight: 6.1 oz Pros: Red, green, blue, and UV lights help with blood tracking, preserving night vision, and stealthiness, powerful 1,000-lumen output, very weather resistant Cons: .1, 3, 13, and 1,000-lumen settings leave a significant gap in brightness, not as compact or ergonomic as other options

Nitecore produces some of the market’s most technologically advanced flashlights and flashlights. Don’t believe me? Just check out their SRT7GT. It’s packed with loads of easy-to-access features, most notably its twisting dial that allows you to switch between red, green, blue, and UV lights.

So, how are all these different colored lights useful for hunters?

• Red lights work well for stealthiness and preserving night vision
• Green lights work well for blood tracking and night fishing
• Blue lights also work well for blood tracking but don’t preserve night vision
• UV lights are used for blood tracking but only when used with luminol

This feature-rich light could come through in the clutch for hunters, especially those who go after deer, elk, and big game at dusk and want a capable blood tracking solution.

Since I already rock a powerful headlamp with red, green, and blue lenses, I don’t need the SRT7GT. I do, however, think this torch would be an excellent option for hunters with headlamps that don’t feature multiple colored lenses. Blood tracking and privacy lights are pretty important in the deer and elk hunting world, and this versatile light has all the features to get it done.

Very Bright Option for Challenging Environments Ledlenser P18R Signature

Max Lumens: 4,500 Max Run Time: 70 hours at 30 lumens Batteries: 3 x 18650 battery pack Weight: 1.4 lb Pros: Extremely bright and powerful, slick magnetic charging system, compatible with RGB color filters, loads of high-tech features Cons: Heavy, bulky, expensive, lacks a mid-brightness setting

For most hunters, the Ledlenser P18R Signature would be overkill. But for those who get tags in ultra-challenging environments and push themselves to the limit, this hulk of a flashlight might be the ticket.

This bad boy operates at four different brightness settings — Low: 30 lumens, Mid Power: 1,000 lumens, Power: 2,600 lumens, and Boost: 4,500 lumens — that help it thrive in the darkest and most relentless terrain. Its twisting dial at its head allows for fluid adjustment between tight spot beams and wide flood lights, allowing hunters to dial in their beam diameter to fit the surroundings.

It also rocks an impressive set of ‘smart light’ features that combine to make it highly customizable and responsive. This is a high-end flashlight for which gear nerds will fall head over heels.

A flashlight this bright and powerful would be useful for hunters who traverse remote areas with few obstructions. If search and rescue is a real possibility, the Ledlenser P18R will provide you with the power you need to look for lost or injured hunters, send SOS signals, or track animals in wide-open environments.

PRO TIP: Order the P18R Signature through Ledlenser’s website, and they’ll laser-engrave your flashlight with custom text for an extra $10.

Ultralight Hat Brim Clip-On Flashlight Fenix E18R

Max Lumens: 750 Max Run Time: 70 hours at 5 lumens Batteries: USB-rechargeable Fenix 16430UP Weight: 1.7 oz Pros: Very lightweight and compact, USB-rechargeable, durable and weatherproof, can clip to a hat brim, would work great as an EDC light Cons: Small – could get lost, easy to burn through the battery at high and turbo settings

Ultralight backcountry hunters will take any opportunity to reduce their pack weight, and that’s why I’m seriously considering trying out this tiny little Fenix E18R torch for the 2024 season. It’ll give me the lumens I need, and it barely weighs a thing.

It’s a compact little bugger, too, and could stash away easily in my pocket, bino harness, or clip to my hat’s brim to work as a headlamp. It can recharge magnetically via USB, is IP68 rated to stand up against the elements, and cranks out a good amount of brightness for how compact it is. It won’t break the bank, either.

The problem is, I’m great at losing smaller gadgets like this in the heat of the moment, so I’d probably end up securing it to a lanyard to keep it from disappearing. There’s something to be said for an ergonomic flashlight, and this isn’t it.

The Fenix E18R would make a great addition to any hunter’s arsenal whose style gravitates towards lightweight and compact gear. At 750 lumens, it’ll provide plenty of light to navigate through the woods at dark as you follow a blood trail.

VIEW ON AMAZON

Best Value Buy Flashlight for Hunters Ledlenser P7

Max Lumens: 450 Max Run Time: 40 hours at 25 lumens Batteries: AAA (4) Weight: 6.2 oz Pros: Approachable price, reliable, Advanced Focus System lets you control your beam diameter, seven-year guarantee Cons: Not super powerful, weather protection isn’t great (IPX4), four AAA batteries aren’t ideal

Some hunters don’t want to drop 100 bucks on a flashlight, and we get that. For those who are after a torch that won’t break the bank, check out the Ledlenser P7. It’s a solid all-around light with plenty of great reviews.

There’s nothing mind-blowing about the P7, but we dig it anyway. Its 450 lumens are on the lower end of torches we recommend, but hunters still report a bright and powerful beam that gets the job done in the backcountry. We also appreciate its Advanced Focus System feature, which puts out tight, focused beams that can transition between spotlights and floodlights with one hand.

Its IPX4 rating is on the lower end of the water-resistance spectrum, meaning it should be able to handle splashes and light precipitation fine, but might not hold up during a prolonged downpour. Weather resistance aside, this sturdy aluminum light should be able to survive drops and falls just fine.

If you’re looking for a sturdy, reliable light from one of the industry’s most trusted brands, consider the P7. Just don’t forget to register it with Ledlenser, so it’ll be eligible for its seven-year warranty.

PRO TIP: Order the P7 through Ledlenser’s website, and they’ll laser-engrave your flashlight with custom text for an extra $10.

Brightest Torch for Search & Rescue, Distance Tracking Nitecore TM39

Max Lumens: 5,200 Max Run Time: 36 hours at 200 lumens Batteries: Rechargeable internal NPB68HD Weight: 3.0 lb Pros: Incredibly bright and powerful, crazy-long throw, massive battery life, durable, reliable Cons: Very bulky and heavy, impractical for most hunting applications, very expensive

Let’s get this out of the way immediately: the ultra-high-end Nitecore TM39 is as large and powerful of a hunting flashlight as I’m comfortable recommending. It’ll excel in rescue situations or while tracking animals in environments with few obstructions, but it would be overkill for anything else.

This absolute unit is as burly and bright as you could ever ask for. With an insane throw of 1,500 meters, it’ll shine powerful beams as far as the eye can see, whether you’re scanning for humans, animals, or anything else. Nitecore markets it as a searchlight, and that’s precisely how hunters should use it.

At three pounds, the TM39 weighs far more than anything else on this list. It’s not going to stash away unnoticed in your pack, nor will it be effortless to lug around the woods. If I were using it, I’d leave it behind at camp to use in case of emergency and clip my Fenix PD36R to my belt as my more practical hunting carry.

Much like the Ledlenser P18R Signature I wrote about earlier, I only recommend the Nitecore TM39 for those who hunt in remote areas with few obstructions and low visibility. In threatening environments where search and rescue or tracking from a distance is possible, this “tiny monster” is the high-performance torch you need.

Best Blood Tracking Light for Deer & Elk Primos Bloodhunter HD

Max Lumens: 600 Max Run Time: Not listed Batteries: CR123A (4) Weight: 1.1 lb Pros: Best option on this list for blood tracking by far, durable and water resistant, solid run time Cons: A bit bulky, serves a very specific use, will need to be paired with a traditional flashlight or headlamp

The Primos Bloodhunter HD is our favorite overall blood tracking light on the market, and it’s not even close. It’s the go-to option for deer, elk, and big game hunters worldwide and could be the difference between tracking down your kill and losing it to the darkness.

We big game hunters love to think that we’ll nail perfect double lung shots every time, but we also know that hunting rarely goes as planned. If you seriously injure an animal but don’t stop it dead in its tracks, the Primos Bloodhunter HD will help you illuminate its blood trail against leaves, sticks, and the earth.

Remember that this light serves a particular purpose: blood tracking in the dark. It isn’t your traditional hunting torch with a powerful white LED beam that can shine for hundreds of yards, so you’ll need to pair it up with a capable flashlight or headlamp if you want a well-rounded setup.

Batteries, Extra Power & Backup Light

Once you get your hands on a proper light for the upcoming hunting season, you’d better make sure it doesn’t die on you when you need it the most. Here are the batteries, power bank, and backup light that I recommend to cover your bases.

Factors We Consider When Reviewing Flashlights

The torches on this list are intricate little gadgets, so we made sure to analyze the inner workings of each device before they could make this list. Getting the exact light you need to match your hunting style is essential, so keep a close eye on the following seven considerations as you make your decision.

Lumens

Simply put, lumens are a measurement of brightness. If you’d like a more technical definition of lumens, click here.

Products on this list can shine anywhere between .5 lumens in low mode and 5,200 in turbo mode. Check out our chart below to help you visualize the brightness along this range.

Approximate Brightness in Lumens

• 1 – 10: Best for up-close uses like cooking, going through gear, and reading
• 11 – 50: Low brightness, will illuminate immediate surroundings but not much else
• 50 – 200: Low-to-medium brightness for hiking and use around camp
• 200 – 500: Medium brightness, suitable for following blood trails
• 500 – 1,000: Medium-to-high brightness, good for tracking animals from a distance
• 1,000 – 2,000: High brightness, used in military and during search and rescue missions
• 2,000 – 4,000: Extreme brightness, the strength of most cars’ headlights
• 4,000+: ‘Probably overkill’ level brightness, meant for incredibly challenging situations

Throw

A flashlight’s throw measures the longest distance its beam can reach, and is typically measured in meters.

For example, if you have a flashlight with a rated throw of 500 meters and you shine it towards a barn 400 meters away, the beam should be visible on the barn. If you shine the same flashlight towards a barn 600 meters away, the beam should weaken and disappear before it hits the barn.

Throw distance depends mainly on how concentrated your flashlight’s beam is. Spotlights, or more focused beams, will have larger throws, whereas floodlights with wider beams will have shorter throws. Many flashlights on this list allow users to switch back and forth between spotlights and floodlights.

Run Time

Run time, or how long you can expect your light’s battery to run, is measured in hours and minutes. The higher amount of lumens your light is emitting, the lower its run time will be (and vice versa). A light with multiple brightness settings will have multiple different run time ratings.

Batteries

As I mentioned, know exactly which type of battery your light requires, and bring extras along if you need them. Nobody wants to struggle through the woods at night as the beam on their flashlight keeps fading and fading.

The most common battery on this list is the CR123A, though we’ve also included a few lights that use AAAs and 18650s.

You’ll also see a couple of lights with internal batteries that you can recharge via USB, AC (wall charger), or 12-volt (car charger). If you’re hunting with one of these lights, be sure you bring along a battery bank or an inverter so you can charge it.

Durability & Weatherproofing

Hunting is tough on your gear; that’s no secret. While making this list, we did our best to include products known for their durability and weather resistance. Nobody’s got time for a light that’ll flicker and shut off after a few minutes in the rain.

Nor do you want a light that’ll break if you drop it on a rock or back over it with your car.

All the products on this list were built for the outdoors and should thrive in dicey conditions.

Click here for a detailed explanation of IPX ratings, which determine how weather-resistant your flashlight is. If you’re hunting in a dry climate, you could get away with bringing an IPX4-rated light, whereas if you’re hunting in a wet and humid climate, you’ll want to bring along something rated IPX6 or better.

Weight

As an ultralight backpacker and backcountry hunter, I keep the weight of my pack down as low as possible while remaining comfortable. Heavy kits can lead to sore knees, rolled ankles, and drained energy. We hunters need all the help we can get, so why would we want to drag a heavy pack around all day?

That’s why it’s important to consider a flashlight’s weight before committing to it. Search for a light with enough lumens for your hunt and zero in on models within a reasonable weight range.

A few ounces here and there may not seem like a big deal, but they do add up. Don’t buy a heavier light than you need, especially if you’re covering big miles in the backcountry.

Which Flashlight Will You Take Hunting in 2024?

Whether you need a hunting flashlight to track wounded animals through the night, light the way as you search for firewood, scare away predators from camp, or go searching for a lost hunter, you’re here for a reason.

When night falls on your hunting trip, you want to be prepared for anything.

That’s why we analyzed, reviewed, and recommended the industry’s ten brightest and best torches of 2024. From rechargeable LED lights to options with red and green settings to lights explicitly made for blood tracking, we wanted to provide our readers with various options that suit all different hunting styles.

So, what’s it going to be? Are you going to grab our top overall recommendation, the Fenix PD36R? How about the red, green, and blue capable Nitecore SRT7GT? Do you prefer the ultra-bright and powerful Ledlenser P18R Signature?

No matter the luminosity, throw, run time, or weather resistance of your future light, we hope we have simplified the buying process and helped you make up your mind. Night or day, we hope whichever product you choose gets its job done during a safe and successful harvest.

Now, grab that flashlight, pack up your gear, and get ready to brighten up the 2024 hunting season.

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Last Updated on August 15, 2024

By Beyond Seclusion

In today’s article, Beyond Seclusion uses a Springfield Armory SAINT Victor to try to determine what the effective range of a 9mm carbine is. While a 9mm pistol is suitable at 0-25 yards, the ballistics of the cartridge make shooting the handgun at 50 or 75 yards a trickier proposition. Yet, rifles and carbines are expected to provide excellent accuracy at 100 yards or 100 meters. Does shooting a 9mm round from a carbine offer a significant long-range advantage over a pistol?

When it comes to guns and shooting, what do most of us like to do? Sure, we all consider self-defense, but what do we truly like to do more than anything? Send rounds down range, “BANG THE STEEL”, test our skills, have a reason to spend time with friends outside, and just enjoy shooting without breaking the bank.

Many of us also like the challenge of shooting at distance, not just up close at 50 yards and under. But what if we took a pistol caliber carbine (PCC), which is normally intended for closer-in distances, and pushed it out to longer ranges? Springfield’s SAINT Victor 9mm may just be the solution we are looking for regarding this project.

Let’s see just how far we can shoot a 9mm carbine.

The Platform: SAINT 9mm Carbine

Why the SAINT Victor 9mm? This is where the time-tested 9mm chambering comes into play. It has been in service with militaries around the world for more than 100 years in pistol, carbine and submachine gun forms. It is also a very pleasant-shooting round. You can carry a lot of rounds and accurately put them on target quickly, efficiently, and most important, accurately. The FBI even went back to the 9mm after many years with the .40, an endorsement particularly attractive to the civilian market.

The Springfield SAINT Carbine is an excellent gun that feeds reliably from industry-standard stick magazines. It uses top quality materials and construction. As an industry-leading pistol-caliber carbine, it should be an excellent platform to test the maximum effective range of the 9mm.

We are not here to debate the effectiveness of the 9mm hollow point compared to other calibers — that is an entirely different debate. I will say it is my preferred choice for concealed carry and home/self-defense. Remember, we are not talking in the military sense here folks; we are talking about the civilian world. So, with that in mind, addressing the desires mentioned above regarding going to range, practice, fun, accuracy, cost of ammo, distance, etc., the 9mm is definitely a top contender in my opinion.

For most of its history with the military, the 9mm was primarily chambered in pistols and submachine guns. It was about 20-30 years ago we started really seeing PCC’s introduced into the civilian market. They really took hold and are now incredibly popular. The reasons why are everything we just mentioned. One of the biggest reasons is the cost and availability of ammo, not to mention accuracy out of a rifle and the extra velocity you get with the longer barrel.

I typically get at least an extra 200+ fps of muzzle velocity from a 16” rifle barrel compared to a pistol-length barrel. That also typically gets you 100+ ft/lbs of energy from the rifle and puts us in and around 500+ ft/lbs of energy, which is nothing to turn your nose up at. It’s shy of a 5.56 NATO carbine’s power, but easily surpasses that of the standard 115 gr. 9mm ammo.

So What Is the Effective Range of a PCC?

So, what does that mean for us? We can have our cake and eat it too.

We can shoot more for less than any other caliber other than the .22 LR, and we get an audible “BANG” on the steel out to 200 yards — and even 300. I actually tested this once — I was able to punch through 3” of pine wood and ring the steel at 400 yards with 16”-barreled PCC with a scope. That’s pretty reasonable penetration for a pistol caliber past 100 yards.

At 50 yards, we can achieve MOA groups and easily bang the steel out to 200 yards.

Not long ago, Springfield introduced the SAINT VICTOR 9mm Carbine. Their SAINT line has been very successful with an outstanding reputation for quality and accuracy. It made perfect sense to add the 9mm to that line.

With a 16” barrel and SAINT AR quality, we should easily be able to reach out to 200 yards. I included the link below to the SAINT Carbine for all the specs & tech. With an optic with a bullet drop compensator (BDC) reticle, I was actually able to reach out to 300 yards. I will be completely honest, it is a real challenge at 300. The hold-over is somewhere around 6-12 feet depending on the ammo and bullet weight. With absolutely no wind, it is very repeatable. The bullet is going really slow at that distance, and any wind will really move it. 200 is ridiculously easy and with little hold-over with a 50-yard zero.

I used a Primary Arms GLx 2x Compact Prism Scope with the ACSS Gemini reticle and BDC. It was absolutely perfect for this gun. We zeroed at 50 yards just like described in the manual, and the BDC took us out to 200 yards without difficulty.

The SAINT 9mm is light and streamline. It just feels comfortable in the hands both for bench shooting and standing. If you are shooting from the bench with a bag, you may find the 32-round mag challenging. You will have to have a pretty tall bag, or simply get a 10- or 20-round mag so it is not digging into the table. I was very surprised how easily I was able to consistently hit the steel at 200 yards standing. The 16” barrel really helps with that.

Conclusion on 9mm Bullets from the AR Platform

The 9mm PCC has very little recoil. You literally could shoot all day with no notable effect on your shoulder — maybe your wallet, but not your shoulder. It’s just fun to shoot and, with the ability to reach out to 200 yards, which compared to a pistol, offers a better experience. What’s not to like?

The bottom line? 9mm is cheap, and you can shoot more for less. That lends the pistol cartridge to be a very fun shooter that is still practical and effective. And, as I’ve hopefully demonstrated here more accurate than many people would assume.

Editor’s Note: Please be sure to check out The Armory Life Forum, where you can comment about our daily articles, as well as just talk guns and gear. Click the “Go To Forum Thread” link below to jump in and discuss this article and much more!

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UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

Are you an angler wondering how long you can keep your catch fresh while fishing?

A popular solution is to put freshly caught fish on ice, and leave them there until you go home.

But how long can you keep fish on ice, and more specifically, how long will ungutted fish last if you keep it on ice?

Here’s the quick answer:

If fish are bled correctly after catching, they can be stored on ice without gutting for 24-48 hours without negative effects.

After that the quality starts to deteriorate, and you’re better off freezing them instead.

How long can you keep ungutted fish on ice?

If you’re planning to keep freshly caught fish on ice, make sure to bleed the fish first before putting them on ice, which is essential to avoid discoloration of the meat.

You don’t want the blood to coagulate inside the fish, and the only way to avoid that is by bleeding them right after catching.

Once fish have been bled correctly, you can keep them ungutted on ice for 24-48 hours without negative effects on taste.

And after you take them home at the end of the day, you can continue to keep the ungutted fish in the refrigerator for another 24-36 hours.

After that you really need to clean them if you want to avoid deterioration of quality.

How long can you keep ungutted fish without ice?

If you’re fishing in the warm season and don’t have ice with you, you can keep your fish for about half a day before it starts to go bad.

However, you’ll need to bleed and clean the fish right after catching. After that keep them dry and in a shady place, and they will be fine until you go home later that day.

If you want to preserve fish longer than half a day in the summer without ice, then the only option is to salt them.

For this you need to rub a lot of salt inside the body cavity after cleaning, as well as all over the outside.

Remember that once you’re ready to eat the fish, you need to soak them in water to remove as much of the salt as possible.

What’s the best way to keep fish fresh after catching?

Ideally, you’ll want to bleed and gut fresh fish immediately after catching them, and then keep them on ice until you cook them on the same day, or the next day.

Raw fish should only be kept in the fridge for a maximum of 2 or 3 days before eating it. On the other hand, if you freeze fresh fish, this preserves their quality for up to 3-8 months.

However, most anglers don’t have time to gut freshly caught fish, since they want to continue catching more fish.

In that case there are several ways to keep fish fresh while fishing. The best of these is to keep the fish alive, but this is only feasible with small fish that can be kept in a keeper net, or in a bucket of water.

If you can’t keep freshly caught fish alive, the next best option is to store them on ice, or in an ice slurry, which keeps them at a temperature of around 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit (similar to the temperature of a fridge).

This can be done quite easily by taking a cooler box with ice along on your fishing trip, though you need to keep in mind that the ice will melt by the end of the day.

If you’re ice fishing, you’re in luck, since the easiest way to keep the fish fresh is simply by leaving them on top of the ice you’re fishing on.

And if you’re planning to mount your fish, check out our guide on how to preserve fish for taxidermy.

How to bleed fish correctly

As mentioned above, it’s essential to bleed fish before putting them on ice, to ensure they stay fresh as long as possible.

The best way to do this is by cutting deeply behind the gills in a downward motion from top to bottom, as this severs all the main blood vessels that serve the gills.

You should immediately see blood come out, and then just wait 1-2 minutes until it’s done, and then quickly rinse the fish.

Can you freeze ungutted fish?

If you take ungutted fish home, you may be wondering if you can freeze the whole fish and clean them later.

The answer is yes – you can freeze fish without gutting them, and you can keep them like that for several months in the freezer without problems.

However, keep in mind that freezing whole fish is not the best solution, and it’s always better to clean fish before freezing them.

The slow freezing process in a home freezer can lead to rupturing of the stomach, which tends to have a negative effect on the taste of the meat.

Also, when you thaw the fish later on, the internal organs will start to decompose very quickly, which can also have a negative effect on taste. In order to avoid this, try to remove the gut when the fish is still partially frozen.

You should also keep in mind that you can’t refreeze fish that has been thawed, since the thawing process accelerates decomposition.

So if you catch a big fish, it’s better to clean it right away and then freeze it in small portions that you can take out of the freezer individually.

How long before ungutted fish goes bad?

If you bleed ungutted fish and then store them on ice or in the refrigerator, they can be kept for 24-48 hours without quality problems. However, it’s essential to keep fish cool for this.

If you don’t keep them cool, you only have 6-12 hours before ungutted fish goes bad. The reason for this is that bacteria and digestive enzymes inside the gut start to affect the rest of the fish.

How long does fresh caught fish last in the fridge?

Gutted fish can last up to 2 to 3 days in the fridge, while ungutted fish lasts for 1 to 2 days in the refrigerator.

Keep in mind that fish protein is highly perishable, and that a fridge only partially slows down decomposition by bacteria. This happens faster in ungutted fish because their intestines contain bacteria that accelerate decomposition.

Finally, even though you can safely eat fish that has been in the fridge for 2 or 3 days, its flavor and texture start to degrade well before it reaches this deadline, which means it will taste worse the longer you wait.

Because of this, I personally only store fresh fish for a maximum of 24 to 36 hours in the refrigerator before eating it.

How long can you freeze fish before it goes bad?

You can freeze fish for 3 to 8 months before it goes bad, and as a general rule of thumb it will be fine if kept in the freezer for 6 months or less.

And when I say “going bad” I mean deterioration of taste and texture, though it’s safe to eat frozen fish even after 1 to 2 years in the freezer.

Also note that fish with a high fat content (such as trout, mackerel and salmon) degrade faster than lean fish, and you should only keep them in the freezer for a maximum of 3 months to ensure optimal taste.

Final remarks

So in conclusion, it’s always best to bleed and fish right after catching them, and then to gut them as fast as possible.

And following that, you should try to eat or freeze the fish as fast as possible to maintain the quality.

So if you happen to be a “catch and release” angler, you’re probably glad right now because you don’t have to worry about this issue.

What’s one of the most popular oil finishes out there right now? Tru-oil.

It’s popularly used as a way to add a high gloss shine on everything from guitars to furniture. And this quick-drying finish is super easy to apply with even a rag, all thanks to its thinner consistency.

After it is dry, the finish Tru-oil leaves behind is a fantastic almost glass-like gloss on wood. And the reason it is able to do all of this, in no small part, boils down to its Linseed oil ingredient.

Made from a blend of Linseed oil (and sometimes Tung oil), Varnish, and Mineral Paint Thinners, Tru-oil brings with it many of the benefits of a Linseed oil finish… but without the waiting around time.

But, does Tru-oil really beat out pure (or boiled) Linseed oil as a wood finish?

Tru-oil dries in less than half the time of Linseed oil. And it doesn’t yellow with age, the way Linseed oil does either.

However, Linseed oil soaks further into wood than Tru-oil, better helping to protect it from decay (caused by moisture). Plus, due to its thicker consistency, Linseed oil needs fewer application coats than Tru-oil.

But, the key difference between the two lies more in the condition of the wood you will be coating them onto.

Linseed is better on bare wood. It works best by penetrating wood pores, leaving very little film resin on the surface (once you’ve wiped away the excess).

But what if those wood pores are already filled with a previous oil finish?

In which case, Tru-oil is a better choice when it comes to refinishing wood. Once you’ve stripped off the original finish, Tru-oil will protect that wood by mostly building up film on the surface. It will still penetrate the timber, just simply not as deep as a Linseed oil finish would.

Still puzzled as to which oil finish to use on your woodwork piece? Well, keep reading to get the answers to the top 5 questions we always get about these two popular oil finishes…

Your Top 5 Tru-oil Questions

1). Is Tru-oil Pretty Much The Same As Linseed Oil?

Tru-oil is very different from Pure Linseed Oil. Mainly due to the fact that Linseed oil is a natural finish, and Tru-oil is not.

Made from flaxseeds, pure Linseed oil has been used as a key ingredient in making moisture resistant stains, paints and finishes.

Boiled linseed oil differs from Tru-oil too. That is because boiled linseed oil, (also referred to as BLO), is created when pure linseed oil is put through a superheated chemical treatment. This treatment process drastically reduces the drying time of pure linseed oil.

2). What Is Tru-oil Made Out Of?

Tru-oil is a blend of Linseed/Tung oil, varnish and paint thinner.

In other words, Linseed oil is one of many ingredients that can be found in Tru-oil. But Linseed oil and Tru-oil are not one and the same.

Related Post: The Top 3 Tru-oil Alternatives That’ll Give Your Guitar A Fine Finish

3). Is Tru-oil Flammable (Just Like Linseed Oil)?

One of the first things you should know about Linseed oil is that it doesn’t take much to set off this substance.

In fact, you don’t even need a spark for this oil-based finish to spontaneously go up in flame.

This high combustibility factor comes about due to Linseed oil reacting with oxygen molecules in the air. Which is why you always need to be careful when disposing of Linseed oil soaked rags (even if they’re dry).

Now, Tru-oil is just as flammable as Linseed oil – for much the same reason. So you should apply the same safety precautions when disposing of rags that have been soaked in Tru-oil. Safety precautions such as;

1. Don’t bunch up multiple rags together.
2. Lay them out separately so that they can dry slowly.
3. And don’t reuse or store them. Simply wait for them to become bone-dry, and then throw them out.

4). Is Tru-oil Weather Resistant?

It’s moisture-resistant, not weather resistant.

In other words, it can shrug off a bit of humidity – and help prevent wood rot and decay.

But it won’t protect wood from a deluge of rain water – or high humidity environments.

Related Post: What You Need To Know About Danish Oil vs Tru Oil

5). And Does Tru-oil Dry Into A Hard Film?

A hard film? No. But does Tru-oil cure into a stiff, rigid film? Yes, it does.

That’s because Tru-oil isn’t very scratch resistant or durable. So if you are looking for something that can handle a lot of dings and dents, this is not the wood finish for you.

Tru-oil is just too thin a substance to really leave behind a thick hard resin.

If you want a finish that’ll give your guitar more protection, then you need to check out polyurethane. This fast drying sealer is scratch-resistant, and waterproof. Learn more by clicking over to our article: When Should You Use Tru-oil Vs Wipe-On Poly? [3 Key Comparisons]

Your Top 5 Linseed Oil Questions

1). What Is Linseed Oil Best Used For?

It’s used in everything from paints, to stains, to finishes. But, at its core, it is best used as a way to help prevent wood decay and rot from setting into wood.

By soaking into and throughout wood, it manages to coat those wood fibers in a lubricant that cures into a resin that keeps moisture out.

2). So, Is Linseed Oil A Good Wood Finish?

It is a great finish, provided that you use it for what it is intended for… and that is to add waterproofing to lumber.

It is not, however, completely waterproof. Which means it will more often than not require at least some kind of top coat sealant to go over it.

Related Post: Can You Put Epoxy Over Linseed Oil (For A Longer Lasting Finish)?

3). How Long Does Linseed Oil Last On Wood?

It takes up to 3 days for Linseed oil to dry into a solid film. And it can take up to 10 weeks for it to cure into a hard resin.

Related Post: How To Make Linseed Oil Dry Faster (What You Need To Know)

And if you then apply a tough and durable sealer, (such as an oil-based polyurethane), over that Linseed oil finish, then it can last 5-10 years.

4). When Should I Use Linseed Oil On Wood?

This wood finish should only be used on bare wood that hasn’t been previously covered in any other penetrating stain or finish.

Linseed oil needs to soak to work. And anything that stops it from doing just that will prevent this finish from doing its job effectively.

5). Is Flaxseed Seriously The Same Thing As Linseed?

Raw Linseed oil is an oily substance that gets crushed out of Flaxseed.

The oil this plant produces is all natural, food safe, edible, and can even be used as a food supplement. And this raw and uncut version of Linseed oil takes forever to dry.

Okay, not quite forever, but it will certainly feel like it.

Important Note: Boiled Linseed oil is not at all fit to be consumed at all in any way shape or form. Although once it has completely and thoroughly cured, it does become food-safe enough to use as a finish on kitchen utensils.

References

Drying and oxidative degradation of linseed oil – ScienceDirect

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• Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet Review

Is Thetford’s Offering One of the Best Portable Camping Toilets?

If you’re looking for a family-sized portable camping toilet, the Thetford 365 may be the right one for you. Discover what it has to offer and what you need from a portable toilet.

An innovator in the portable camping toilet space, Thetford’s history dates back to 1960. It was in that year that the company produced its first portable toilet for campers. Since then, it’s honed its models constantly and become a leading name in the industry.

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet is among the more popular models that it has to offer. In this review, we’re going to take a look at whether the toilet lives up to its billing, as well as tackling a few concerns. We’re also going to tell you what you need to look for when shopping for a portable toilet.

The Good

• Offers 57 flushes before you need to empty it.
• Very lightweight, which makes it easy to carry.
• Made using high-quality and durable plastics.
• Comes with a three-year warranty.
• Comes with several features to help you empty it easily.

The Bad

• May not ship with the chemicals needed (depending on the retailer).
• Its size can make it difficult to transport with other camping gear.

The Bottom Line

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet is huge, which means you can usually get through a trip without having to empty it. The toilet’s light weight makes it easy to move around and it feels almost like a full-sized toilet.

This may be one of the best portable camping toilets available today.

The Full Review

To test this toilet, we took it out in the wild with us for a three-day camping trip.

We focused on a few key issues that we want to cover here. These include the following:

• Ease of Use
• Stability
• Materials
• The Smell
• Portability
• Capacity
• Other Features

Let’s see how it fares.

Toilet Ease of Use

This is an area where the Thetford Porta Potti 365 really shines.

On a practical level, its size makes it one of the closest portable simulations of a regular toilet that you will find. Taller people won’t find themselves squatting uncomfortably while using it. That said, smaller children may need a little support.

However, it’s the emptying of the toilet that really makes this model stand out.

It comes with a visual indicator for the bottom tank. This tells you when the toilet’s starting to fill up. As a result, you don’t have to crack it open to take a look for yourself. You get to avoid an unpleasant experience as well as ensuring you don’t release any strange odors into your campsite.

Once it reaches capacity, you still don’t have to open the waste tank. Instead, you can take advantage of the emptying spout that Thetford builds into all of its toilets. This releases all of the waste that’s built up inside the bottom tank. Plus, it prevents any nasty splash back. It’s as simple as pressing the vent button after directing the emptying spout into the correct position.

Thetford has also focused on ease of use in their tank construction. The toilet consists of two tanks, which you can clip together using a clasp located at the back. The bottom tank holds the waste while the top tank contains the bowl.

Thetford has also placed the flusher on the back of the tank, which ensures that it doesn’t get in your way during use. You also get a choice of a piston or bellow flusher. Keep in mind that bellow flushers take a little more effort to push down. This may make them less suitable for children or the elderly.

All in all, the Thetford Porta Potti 365 simulates the toilet you have at home well. It’s easy to put together and you don’t even have to open it to empty it. Just keep in mind that its size and your flusher choice may make it slightly more difficult to use for children and the elderly.

Porta Potti Stability

Nobody wants a portable chemical toilet that can’t stay upright when in use.

Thankfully, the Thetford 365 excels in this area. Its cube shape means it’s rarely going to buckle when in use. Unless you’re actively trying to tip it over, you’ll find it stays in place well. This is surprising given the lightweight plastics used in its construction.

Of course, you’ll need flat ground to place it on. However, that’s pretty standard for all portable camping toilets. It’s also worth noting that it doesn’t come with any attachments that secure it to the ground. That’s normally not a problem, but it does mean you won’t want to leave it in the open if it gets too windy.

Having said that, there are a couple of accessories available that fix the toilet to the floor and keep it held down. However, you may have to buy these separately.

Materials

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet stands out because it contains practically no metal parts.

Instead, both of the tanks and most of the components use a high-quality plastic. You may think this raises questions about its durability, but we found that the plastics don’t present any problems. The toilet doesn’t buckle under the weight of whoever sits on it. Plus, the use of plastic means it won’t get damaged if left out in the elements,

That’s not to say that it’s indestructible. A heavy impact onto rocks or a similarly hard surface could cause damage. But that shouldn’t be a problem as long as you take care when handling it.

The Smell

No matter how well a portable chemical toilet works, if it has an overpowering smell you’re not going to want to use it.

Thankfully, this is another area where the Thetford 365 excels. Using a pink deodorising chemical in the top tank does a great job of masking any smells that it might emit. The plastic materials also prevent smells from escaping when the toilet’s not in use.

Toilet Portability

You would expect such a large toilet to present some portability problems. And that could be the case if you’re traveling in a compact vehicle. It requires a fair amount of room given that it measures 41.4 x 37.9 x 41.9cm. However, you can mitigate this problem if you disconnect the tanks before storing.

Carrying the toilet is a completely different story. Without any chemicals inside, the toilet weighs just 3.7kg. That means that any able-bodied adult should find it easy to carry.

There’s also a handle that extends out of the waste tank. This means you can carry it separately from the top tank if you’ve pre-filled it with chemicals before traveling.

The handle also gives you some separation from the waste tank while carrying. Anyone who’s gotten splashed with toilet chemicals before will appreciate this feature.

Tank Capacity

This is one of the best portable camping toilets when it comes to capacity.

The Thetford 365’s waste tank can hold 21 litres before it needs emptying. That amounts to about 57 flushes, which is more than enough to cover most short camping trips.

Other Features

Newer Thetford 365 models come with an integrated lock cover over the clasp that joins the two tanks together. This prevents you from accidentally unclasping the toilet when carrying it or when it’s in use.

This portable chemical toilet also comes with a three-year warranty. This speaks volumes about Thetford’s confidence in its durability.

Finally, it’s possible to purchase spare parts for this toilet. This offers some peace of mind for those who worry about their toilet breaking down while they’re camping. Plus, it means you may not have to shell out for a new toilet if something goes wrong.

5 Points On How to Choose the Right Portable Toilet:

Of course, the Thetford 365 is just one of many portable camping toilets that you can choose from. You’ll likely want to compare several models, which means you need to know how to choose the right portable toilet.

This buyer’s guide covers some of the key features of portable camping toilets. It also offers information about what you’ll need to keep your toilet in good working condition.

Keep it in mind when making your choice so you can avoid disappointment.

1. The Flusher

You’ll usually get a choice between automatic and manual flushers when choosing a portable toilet.

Automatic flushers tend to work electronically and usually just require the press of a button. This makes them easy to use, but it does open the toilet up to issues. If something happens with the electronics, you may end up being unable to flush.

Manual flushers require a little more effort. However, many would argue that they’re more reliable than automatic flushers.

You typically get a choice between a piston and bellow flushers when choosing a manual toilet.

Bellows require you to push down with some force to flush. This isn’t a problem for most, but may present issues for young children or the elderly. These flushers also have a habit of breaking as a result of people using more force than they need to flush.

Piston flushers require you to pull a piston up, rather than push down on the toilet. This makes them easier to use.

2. Tank Indicators

A tank indicator lets you see how close the toilet is to filling up. Some may provide a measurement, whereas others flash a colour, usually red, to tell you the tank needs emptying.

It’s important to note that not all portable chemical toilets come with these indicators. If that’s the case, you’ll have to open the waste tank to manually inspect it. This isn’t the most pleasant experience so it’s usually best to choose a toilet that has a tank indicator.

3. Spare Parts

Ideally, your portable toilet won’t require much maintenance. It should be sturdy enough to deal with repeated use.

However, it will eventually start to wear down. In particular, the parts that see repeated use, such as the flusher, will undergo wear and tear.

Being able to buy replacement parts can be a huge money saver in these instances. You can replace the component rather than buying a new toilet.

Unfortunately, not all portable camping toilets have spare parts available. If this is the case, make sure you choose a model that offers a long guarantee.

4. The Chemicals

There are two types of chemicals that you’ll need for your toilet – pink and blue/green.

The pink chemicals go into the water that’s used to flush the toilet. They help to keep the bowl clean as they get rid of deposits when you flush. Usually, these chemicals come perfumed, which masks any unpleasant odours the toilet might produce. They also help to keep the toilet’s seals lubricated, which ensures they don’t break down through constant use.

You need blue/green cassette toilet chemicals for the waste tank. They break down whatever waste ends up in the tank, which prevents the build-up of noxious gases. This also helps to control the smell issue.

It’s also important to check these chemicals for formaldehyde. This is a toxic chemical that can cause damage to the environment. You will need to take care when emptying the toilet to ensure you don’t cause any damage. Thankfully, there are chemicals available that don’t contain formaldehyde.

You may need to buy your chemicals separately before you start using your toilet.

5. Toilet Paper

You’ll want to avoid using thick or luxury toilet paper with your chemical toilet. The padding in these papers makes them difficult to break down.

Most camping stores offer specially designed porta potti toilet paper instead. While this is thinner and less comfortable than luxury paper, it ensures that your toilet doesn’t get clogged.

The Final Word

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet may be the gold standard against which we measure all other portable camping toilets. Its large size makes it comfortable to use, plus its light weight makes it easy to transport.

However, it’s the various features related to waste disposal that make it stand out. You never have to deal with any waste manually thanks to the vent button and emptying spout.

It also has very few negatives. Just make sure you choose a piston flusher if young children or the elderly will use the toilet.

All what’s left is to buy the toilet for your next camping trip. Check Thetford and their products at Tentworld and don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

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↬ The Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 is a popular shotgun for hunting both ducks and geese, and with the right choke tube, it can deliver consistent patterns with non-toxic shot. The SBE II’s versatility allows it to function in even the most challenging environments, but it needs the right choke tube to function effectively.

The Patternmaster Code Black and Carlson’s Cremator are two of the best choke tubes for the Super Black Eagle 2. They can deliver results of over 80% pellets inside a 30-inch circle at over 40 yards with the right ammo. Their ported design helps reduce recoil and muzzle jump, making follow up shots quicker and more accurate.

In this guide, we’ll discuss in more detail why you should consider these chokes, the features behind them, and what to expect at certain hunting distances. And remember, always pattern your shotgun to see how it performs with the ammo you plan on hunting with so adjustments can be made prior to using it in the field.

Best Chokes for the Benelli Super Black Eagle 2

These are the three choke tubes you should consider that can provide more consistent and dense patterns downrange. The SBE II is compatible with the Crio Plus choke system.

1) Carlson’s Cremator Non-Ported Choke

The Carlson’s Cremator choke tube is an excellent choice for hunters who need a versatile choke that can perform well with a variety of shotshell loads. This choke tube uses a unique design that consists of multiple tapers, which work together to provide a consistent shot pattern. This makes the Cremator ideal for hunting situations where you need to be able to adjust your shooting style quickly and accurately.

The Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 works especially well with the Carlson’s Cremator. This choke produces dense patterns between 30 and 40 yards with steel shot for hunting over decoys. The Cremator can put 80% of pellets inside a 30-inch circle at 40 yards with the right ammo. It has a diameter of 0.697″ which is close to an improved modified. This is the BUDGET pick.

2) Patternmaster Code Black Choke

The Patternmaster Code Black is a top-of-the-line choke tube that provides unmatched performance in long-range hunting situations. This choke tube uses a specialized constriction design that helps to control the spread of shot at longer distances. This makes it an ideal choice for waterfowl hunters who need to take shots at moving targets from a distance.

The Patternmaster Code Black choke tube fits the Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 perfectly. This all-around choke is great for field hunts, ponds, lakes, and rivers where the range of shots varies, and you’ll be able to handle it all without having to change chokes mid hunt. The internal rings help halt the wad from the shot column in a controlled manner to reduce pellet disruption during wad separation while giving better patterns downrange. Expect it to pattern closer to a full choke. This is the TOP pick for MAX range.

3) Carlson’s Cremator Ported Mid Range

Carlson’s ported version of the Cremator choke series is another good option for the Super Black Eagle 2 in that it can help reduce recoil and muzzle jump, while the internal stud design works to reduce pellet deformation. This mid-range choke tube is perfect for decoying birds in tight or for quick passing shots at medium range.

Consider the ported Cremator choke if you want a slight reduction in muzzle jump and getting on targets faster for follow up shots due to directing some of the gases and pressure outwards. However, ported chokes can be louder and may throw more gun powder residue outwards, so keep that in mind.

Why you should choose the Cremator for the Benelli SBE 2

• Made from high-quality stainless steel
• Specifically designed to provide superior performance
• Features a unique design that allows for tighter shot patterns and improved accuracy
• Unique wad tapering system as the shot exits the barrel
• Less fouling and improved consistency
• Black oxide finish that provides superior durability and corrosion resistance
• Improved accuracy and performance

What is the best Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 choke for steel shot?

The Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 shotgun works well with a wide variety of choke tubes and shot types. This is true with steel shot used mostly for waterfowl. Steel shot loads can all be fired through certain models of the Super Black Eagle 2 which it is specifically designed for.

The best Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 choke tube for steel shot is the Patternmaster Code Black choke. It provides dense patterns with short shot strings that are capable of hitting fast moving birds. It works especially well over decoys out to ranges of 50 yards.

Other great options for choke tubes that work well for the Super Black Eagle 2 are the Carlson’s Cremator series of chokes. These choke tubes are highly customizable as they are available in long range and mid-range options depending on the hunting situation.

Are Benelli factory chokes good enough?

Often overlooked are the factory choke tubes that are included with the Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 when bought new. The choke system is installed on most Super Black Eagle 2 shotguns and can be customized with interchangeable choke tubes built for it.

Factory Benelli chokes tubes can be good enough, but it depends on the application it’s being used for (e.g. timber hunting vs pass shooting) and the shotshell loads. These factors will determine if the factory choke you have is capable of performing for any given hunting situation.

Once you’ve determined that the factory choke size and constriction is right, then patterning the Super Black Eagle 2 with the loads you intend to hunt with will let you know if it’s good enough to use in the field. If patterning can’t be done, then an aftermarket choke tube like the Patternmaster will most likely perform better right out of the box.

Is the Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 modified choke the most versatile choke size?

Yes, the modified choke tube is the most versatile choke tube for the Benelli Super Black Eagle 2 and its choke system. It may not be the best performer at all ranges, but over a wide range it can’t be beat.

This includes close decoy shooting, birds skirting the edges of the decoys, and that occasional long pass shot. A modified may be too tight of a choke for timber hunting since shots are under 30 yards. A light modified, improved cylinder, or skeet choke may be a better option.

Regardless, if you’re in a field hunting situation where the shots on birds will be at varying ranges from 20 yards to 50 yards, the modified is a good choice for versatility.

How It Compares

When it comes to choosing the right choke tube for the Benelli Super Black Eagle 2, Carlson’s Cremator stands out from its competitors. The Carlson’s Cremator is engineered with a unique design that provides consistent and even shot patterns, resulting in better accuracy and a higher precision. Unlike its competitors, the Cremator is built with Triple Shot Technology, which ensures that the shot is evenly distributed, reducing the chances of having holes or gaps in your pattern. Additionally, the Cremator’s longer parallel section helps to reduce recoil, which in turn leads to more controlled shots and better follow ups. Overall, the Carlson’s Cremator is a top performer, delivering outstanding results that set it apart from the competition.

Bottom Line

Several factory choke tubes come with the Super Black Eagle 2, but they aren’t always the best. After market premium choke tubes are available to provide enhanced features and better patterning results that translate to better success in the field.

The Patternmaster Code Black and Carlson’s Cremator are two of the best choke tubes to consider using when hunting with the SBE II. These ported chokes are extended for easy removal in the field and are designed to produce more consistent and dense patterns between 30 and 50 yards.

As always, you should pattern your shotgun to see what ammo and choke combinations work the best out of it. One shotgun may not perform like another. Test it out and develop a system that will work well throughout the hunting season and give you the best chance of success when birds are hovering over your decoys.

Related

• Benelli Choke Tube Chart – Comparision Guide
• Best Chokes for the Benelli Super Black Eagle
• Are Benelli and Stoeger choke tubes compatible?
• What does BER/BEN mean on a choke tube?

Latest Posts

• Best Waterfowl Choke Tubes for Duck Hunting Success
• Choke Tube Diameter and Constriction Table
• 7.5 vs 8 shot: The 3 Key Differences to Know

Last update on 2024-11-05 / Affiliate links / Product Images from Amazon Product Advertising API

If you’re on the hunt for a long-range shooter in a new caliber that promises remarkable downrange ballistics, incredible energy retention, and is easy on the shoulder, pull the trigger (no pun intended) on Browning’s X-Bolt Speed LR.

Reviewing new rifles and calibers has always been near and dear to my writing heart. I love getting in a fancy-to-do new shooter with ammo that promises to be a ballistic marvel and putting it through the paces.

Some rifles and calibers, even wildcat calibers many raved over, did little for me. Call me old-fashioned, but it’s hard to beat tried-and-true legends like the .308 Win., .300 Rem. Mag., and .03-06 Sprg.

*This review was written without bias about the review of the Browning X-Bolt Speed LR. Affiliate links were placed in the article after it was written.

A few years back, a rifle arrived at my FFL chambered in 6.5 PRC. The 6.5 bore diameter was familiar; I had several 6.5 Creedmoors in the gun safe. Still, the new round from Hornady grabbed my attention.

Hornady touted the round as “the big brother of the 6.5 Creedmoor.” As sick as I was of the current Creedmoor fascination, I did (still do) love the caliber. It’s fast, flat-shooting, and uber-accurate.

The story behind the 6.5 PRC was a 200-plus feet-per-second increase over the Creedmoor in a bullet seated in a compact magnum cartridge. The PRC was engineered to put high-performance bullets on the mark at ridiculously long ranges and provide remarkable energy retention.

After a week of shooting the new rifle with Hornady’s 143 gr ELD-X Precision Hunter rounds, I fell in love. I anchored a couple of speed goats at long ranges and a big old muley that fall. I loved the velocity, terminal performance, and the lack of recoil the round produced.

A year or so ago, I started hearing rumblings about a new PRC, the 7mm PRC, to be exact, and Hornady was once again spearheading the mission.

When Browning’s Rafe Neilson asked me if I’d be interested in testing and hunting with the manufacturer’s X-Bolt Speed LR chambered in 7mm PRC, I jumped at it.

The Browning X-Bolt First Impressions

Tar and feather me, but you can’t beat the out-of-box factory performance of an X-bolt platform. I own six X-Bolts, and, spoiler alert, the Speed LR will be joining my collection.

The composite stock is airy and covered in Browning’s OVIX camo pattern, which I love, and the barrel and action are cloaked in a stylish Smoke Bronze Cerakote metal finish.

Aesthetics aside, the adjustable comb system on the stock and the extended bolt handle were other features that jumped out at me immediately. I love customization, and with a one-inch adjustment, I knew the comb would create ideal eye-to-scope alignment. This is critical with any rifle but especially essential if you make one and then brand it with LR (Long Range) capabilities. The gun may shoot far accurately, but for shooters to take advantage of advanced ballistics, the rifle needs an excellent build.

I also applaud the extended bolt handle. The X-Bolt’s short, rapid 60-degree throw is one of my favorite features. The Browning X Bolt Speed LR promises this same bolt throw, but with the bolt handle extended, reloading is faster and more efficient than ever before.

I appreciate that Browning fluted the sporter contour barrel on the X Bolt. Fluted barrels reduce weight and factor into the accuracy equation. The belled muzzle allows for standard, suppressor-ready threads, and the threaded muzzle brake is designed to reduce felt recoil drastically.

Make It So

I have a pair of open-country elk tags in my pocket this fall. While I will do my darndest to get as close as possible, I want to get prone and make a long shot if necessary.

For this reason, I topped the rifle with Leupold’s VX-5HD3-15×44. I have used this scope on other rifles, and Leupold takes the cake regarding optical ingenuity. Leupold scopes are tanks that resist weather and gather light like crazy, and many, like the VX-5HD, come with Leupold’s CDS-ZL2 dial. With this dial, shooters can gather intel requested by Leupold, send the dial in, and Leupold will send back a laser-marked bullet-drop dial that matches their exact ballistics.

There are lots of great ammo makers. My problem is I’m superstitious. I brought down the last big bull I took with a load from Federal Premium. For this test, I opted to tinker with a pair of Federal 7mm PRC makes — the ELD-X 175 Grain and Terminal Ascent 155 Grain. I’m a fan of both bullets, and while the 175-grain is a tad heavier for elk, I like the 3,100 fps muzzle velocity of the Terminal Ascent. Plus, the build of the Terminal Ascent bullet means extreme long-range expansion and short-range weight retention. I don’t want a long-range bullet that explodes on a bull’s side at close range due to the bullet’s velocity.

I mounted the scope with Leupold rings and bases, and after taking my time to level the scope and set my comb height, proper eye relief was obtained.

Field Test

I’m not a fan of burning through pricy ammo. For this reason, I bore sight rifles at 200 yards. I place a 6-inch diameter steel orange plate at 200 yards, lock my gun down in a BOG DeathGrip, and remove the bolt. With the bolt removed, I adjust the tripod, line the barrel hole up with the center of the plate, lock the tripod down, and walk the crosshairs in. If the rifle is worth its salt, this system typically puts the first shot on the plate. I add a cardboard backing, so if I miss the plate, I know by how much.

My first shot with Federal’s ELD-X 175 Grain smacked the plate low and left. After adjusting my scope, the next shot from 200 yards hit the steel target’s center.

Wanting to let the barrel cool and go through the proper channels, I used Real Avid’s Master Gun WorkStation and some cleaning materials to swab the barrel and cool it down.

Back on the range, I moved to 300 yards, did some dial tweaking based on the drop Federal brands on their ammo boxes, kept the rifle in the BOG, and sent another at the plate. Bingo! The sweet sound of steel. This rifle is an out-of-the-box shooter. The trigger is butter — shots break clean and smooth — and recoil is mild. The last thing I want to consider is recoil, and the Inflex recoil pad blended with the muzzle break drastically reduces it.

I shot the rifle for two days and went through 20 rounds of Terminal Ascent and 20 rounds of ELD-X. The rifle’s 1:8 twist rate favored both rounds. Naturally, the 155-grain had less drop, and not being able to send in my CDS dial ahead of time to Leupold, I stopped testing at 600 yards. With the 175-grain ELD-X, I stopped sending lead at 500 yards.

Both rounds are extremely capable, and though I’m not sure which one will be my elk killer, I want to note this rifle is accurate as the day is long. It builds shooting confidence, which is everything when trying to put lead on the mark at extended ranges. I give the rifle a 5-star rating, and I can’t wait to see how it performs in the coming months.

Browning X-Bolt Speed LR 7mm PRC Specs:

Action Length: Long Barrel Length: 26 in. Overall Length: 46 3/4 in. Weight: 7.3 pounds Magazine Capacity: Removable, 3-round Twist Rate: 1:8 Barrel Finish: Smoked Bronze Cerakote Receiver Finish: Smoked Bronze Cerakote Stock Finish: Ovix Stock Material: Composite Recoil Pad: Inflex 1 Drilled and Tapped: Yes MSRP: $1,479.99

By Jason Vincent

The world is full of ugly rifles…and so is my gun safe.

The truth is, I like them. I appreciate the durability of synthetics, I value a weather resistant stainless barrel and, in the field, the practicality in the shape of a more tactical stock opens up more shooting positions.

But these are not my favorite rifles.

My favorites all have classic lines, wood stocks, and blued barrels. I’m willing to forgive them a little if they’re not surgically accurate.

The Winchester Model 70 has always been my favorite sporting rifle and I’ve been chasing deals on the pre-1964 versions for a long time now. These guns were designed right, built right, and they almost always offered surprising accuracy.

And then Winchester bastardized them in 1964 to cut costs and compete with Remington’s cheaper and less refined push-feed Model 700 -which they were having huge success with.

Model 70 purists – guys like my grandad – vomited as they lost their reliable control round feed actions and watched Winchester’s overall quality take a nose-dive. But the side effects only lasted a short 28 years before Winchester listened to their customers and in 1992, the company started producing control round feed actions again.

Today, the Winchester Model 70 may be the best rifle the company has ever made. They beat the pants off anything Remington has ever produced, and they’ve turned many of us into believers in their rifles again.

I own several of these newer guns.

Before our last trip to Africa, I sent my current catalog model .30-06 M70 Supergrade off to a company that manufactures and installs iron sights. I like hunting with irons when I can get away with it and the lack of them on most of the new M70’s bothers me.

When I got back the rifle back, the crew that did the work clearly beat my Supergrade up in the shop. There were scratches in the bluing and even a small gouge on the barrel. Mind you, these rifles are designed to be head turners, so I wasn’t thrilled with the way they treated it, but I don’t own safe queens and I knew I’d be putting new scars on it soon.

I’d shot this beauty before having the sights installed and knew it to be an accurate rig, but while it was off being thrown around the sight installer’s workshop, Unknown Munitions sent me some 180gr Barnes loads for our safari. When the rifle came back, I mounted a Leupold VX-3HD 2.5-8×36 in Talley quick-release rings and hit the range.

I’d never tried 180’s in this gun and with a max power of 8x in the optic I had to look through my spotting scope to see my first 3-shot group.

I knew at first glance that the cluster had to be ½” or less. I let things cool for a few minutes then shot again. Slightly larger group but still less than the ¾” mark. I zeroed the scope and dead centered the bullseye. I fired one more round to confirm zero and then packed everything up.

I went back to the office and used the velocity info from the doppler I set up on the shooting bench to update my Sig Kilo 2400ABS rangefinder with the data that would allow me to stretch the Supergrade out in the field. Since first using this system a few years ago, I haven’t taken a trip without it.

Fast forward to the shooting range in safari camp. We all uncased our rigs to check zero before hunting. I center-punched the target with two rounds and put the rifle away. Almost everyone commented on how good looking the rifle was and I think I was the only hunter in camp that didn’t need to make scope adjustments on the bench.

Over the next two weeks, the Winchester took a beating in the Landcruiser between the shots that downed game from 60 yards to 332 yards. The last round I fired was on a smaller animal at 470 yards. The blesbok died with a single round to the heart while my buddies drank beer and watched.

Several people have tried to buy this rifle from me since.

It will never be sold.

Summary:

The current Winchester M70’s are rifles to own. People bitch about the newest models being made in Europe these days, but I don’t want to hear about it. My Portuguese models are as good or better than anything Winchester has ever put their name on. If I have one gripe, it’s the lack of iron sights on all but the Safari Express models. Winchester really should make a series of the rifle in .270 and .30-06 to mimic the classic pre-64 design. They’d sell the hell out of them.

Pros:

Beautiful. Accurate. Control round feed for ultimate reliability.

Cons:

They need iron sights for us purists.

Need a salmon fishing primer (or refresher)? Here’s the short take on the types of salmon you can pursue and the various methods that are used to target each species.

King SalmonSilver SalmonRed Salmon

King Salmon

Probably the most prized fish in Alaska, Kings are also one of the most difficult to catch. King salmon tend to swim in the deepest part of the river, which is typically right down the center. In places like the Kenai River, this makes it very difficult for shore anglers to catch them. However, for the patient and experimental shoreline angler, there are many opportunities to catch kings. Fish for kings a couple hours before and after a tidal change. Often, flies are used on low tides, and bait/lures are used on high tide. Before fishing for kings, make sure to get a king tag! This is the only species which requires an additional tag for legal fishing.

Flies: Use large, bright flies. Let these flow down the river at the same pace as the current (adjust weight as necessary). Kings are notoriously light biters, so if your fly stops, set the hook and hold on!

Spinning/Casting: Use large, bright lures (Vibrax size 5-6, Pixies, in pink, orange, chartreuse, blue, etc). For bait, you can use herring (near salt water) or salmon roe (all situations). This can be fished under a bobber, or from the bottom up. If you’re fishing from the bottom up, put your weight about 24” above the hook. Use any weight you’re comfortable with, but you want enough on there to either hold the bait in place under the water, or to bounce along at the same pace of the current. Use a “double mooch” (two hooks, one tied a couple inches above the other. You can buy them as premade rigs or set them up yourself. Put a golfball-sized piece of bait on the TOP hook, using the egg knot line to secure it down. Let the second hook dangle empty. Just cast this setup at your 10 o’clock position, and drift through your 2 o’clock position. Repeat.

Silver Salmon/Pink Salmon/Chum Salmon

The technique here is pretty much exactly the same as it was for King Salmon. The difference is where these fish swim. These salmon species tend to sit either in clear water or just on the edge of clear water. Clear water occurs when a small stream flows into a murky-colored stream. If there is no clear spots (or they are all clear), look for deep holes where the water slows down. This occurs around bends, behind big rocks, near trees, etc. Keep in mind that the reason fish will sit right outside of clear water is that they can be spooky. If there is a lot of bright sunlight, try using dark fly/lure patterns. These spooky fish will be less scared, and more inclined to bite.

Red Salmon

Red salmon (Sockeye) are one of Alaska’s most popular salmon. The best locations are typically the Kenai River, Russian River, and Kasilof River. These fish swim very close to the shore in medium swift currents. Don’t be the unaware fisherman who wades out 20ft only to block everyone else from catching the fish that are swimming behind you! Reds are not aggressive biters, so the common method of catching them is called “flossing”. The idea is that if you lay your line low in the water, the salmon will pick up the line in their mouth. At this point you “set the hook,” which draws the hook into the corner of the fish’s mouth. This requires using the right amount of weight so that the line and hook move along the bottom of the river at the same pace of the current (This is important***). You can use any type of weight you feel comfortable with. Splitshot, slinkies, and sinklines are all common types. Leader lengths (the line between your weight and your fly) will vary based on water conditions. On the Russian River, where the stream is narrow and quick, typical leader lengths are between 18” and 24”. On the Kenai River, where the water is deep and wide, leader length is more often between 3’ and 5’. Adjust the leader length when needed. The goal is to ensure that the line and fly lay flat along the bottom. The standard fly to use is called the Russian River Fly (~.35 cents), but more effective alternatives are the #4 sockeye special and polar shrimp. These are more effective because they have a shorter shank. In the lower/middle Kenai River you can use larger hooks (a popular option is the 2/0 Octopus hook). You can use any sort of fly, as long as you can visibly see it in the water (this helps target fish and drift speed of the fly) and is legal (see the current regulations) – this usually means smaller than size 2 or 4).

The technique is fairly simple, and if you follow it, you have a great chance to land lots of fish. First, determine where you want to fish. Pull out enough line that you can “flip” your fly out about 15-20 ft (adjust this based on where fish are). Flip your line as far as it will go to your “10 o’clock position”, which should be past and upstream of your fish. Keeping your line taught, drift the line through the water at the same pace of the current until your line points to your “2 o’clock position”. Repeat. Remember, adjust your weight if your line is moving too quickly or slowly. This will be the difference between catching and not catching fish.

Self-defense is a crucial skill that everyone should possess. In today’s world, it’s important to be prepared for any situation, especially when it comes to protecting oneself. One way to do this is by carrying a self-defense tool, such as a flashlight. But how many lumens are needed to temporarily blind an attacker?

While there is no exact answer to this question, it’s important to understand the basics of how a flashlight can be used for self-defense.

The bright light emitted from a flashlight can baffle an attacker, giving the victim time to escape or defend themselves. However, not all flashlights are created equal, and the number of lumens needed to blind an attacker can vary based on several factors.

What are Lumens?

Lumens are a measure of the total amount of light that a bulb or flashlight emits. It is a unit of measurement for the brightness of a light source. The higher the number of lumens, the brighter the light will be.

Remember that,

Lumens are not the same as watts, which measure the energy a light source uses. A higher wattage bulb does not necessarily mean a brighter light. Lumens are a more accurate measure of brightness.

For self-defense purposes, the number of lumens in a flashlight is important. A flashlight with a high number of lumens can temporarily blind an intruder, giving you time to escape or defend yourself.

However, it is important to note that a high number of lumens does not necessarily mean a better flashlight for self-defense. There are other factors to consider, such as the size and weight of the flashlight, the battery life, and the beam distance.

Using a flashlight with the appropriate number of lumens for your intended purpose is also important. A flashlight with too few lumens may not provide enough light to see in a dark environment, while a flashlight with too many lumens may be too bright and cause temporary blindness to yourself or others.

When choosing a flashlight for self-defense, it is recommended to select one with at least 1000 lumens. This is enough to temporarily blind an attacker and give you time to escape or defend yourself. However, it is also important to consider the other factors mentioned above.

Factors That Affect the Blinding Effect of Lumens

The blinding effect of a flashlight depends on several factors, including the brightness of the light, the distance between the light and the attacker, and the angle at which the light hits the attacker’s eyes.

Generally, the closer the attacker is to the light source, the fewer lumens you need to achieve the blinding effect. However, if the attacker is too close, the light may also be too bright for you, making it difficult to see and aim.

The angle at which the light hits the attacker’s eyes is also important. If the light is shining directly into the attacker’s eyes, it will be more effective than if it is shining at an angle.

How Many Lumens Can Temporarily Blind an Attacker?

The answer depends on the situation, but most experts recommend using a flashlight with at least 300 lumens.

This brightness level is typically enough to cause temporary blindness, especially if the attacker is within a few feet of the light source. However, it’s important to remember that the blinding effect may not work on all attackers, especially those under the influence of drugs or alcohol.

It’s also worth noting that a flashlight with too many lumens can be just as ineffective as one with too few. If the light is too bright, it can cause glare and reflection, making it difficult to see and aim.

Overall, a flashlight with around 300 lumens is a good starting point for self-defense. However, it’s also important to consider other factors, such as the size and weight of the flashlight, its battery life, and durability.

Remember, a bright flashlight can be a valuable tool in self-defense, but it’s important to use it responsibly and effectively.

Proper Use of Flashlights for Self-Defense

When using a flashlight for self-defense, it’s important to understand how to use it to maximize its effectiveness properly. Here are a few tips:

• Hold the flashlight in your non-dominant hand so your dominant hand is free to defend yourself if needed.
• Use a flashlight with a strobe setting to disorient an attacker.
• Shine the light directly into the attacker’s eyes to temporarily blind them.
• Be aware of your surroundings and use the flashlight to scan the area for potential threats.

Remember, a flashlight is not a weapon and should only be used for self-defense as a last resort. Always try to de-escalate a situation and avoid confrontation if possible.

Relevant: Strobe flashlight vs. regular flashlight.

Alternative Self-Defense Tools

While flashlights can be an effective self-defense tool, there are other options to consider as well. Here are a few alternative self-defense tools:

It’s important to research and understand the proper use of any self-defense tool before relying on it in a dangerous situation. Remember, the goal of self-defense is to protect yourself and escape unharmed, not to cause harm to others.

By staying aware of your surroundings and being prepared for potential threats, you can increase your chances of staying safe in dangerous situations.

Is 1000 Lumens Too Bright for Home Defense?

When it comes to self-defense, having a bright flashlight can be an effective tool to disorient an attacker and give you time to escape or defend yourself. But how bright is too bright?

First, let’s define what a lumen is. A lumen is a unit of measurement for the amount of light emitted by a source. The higher the number of lumens, the brighter the light. A typical flashlight may have around 100-300 lumens, while some tactical flashlights can have up to 1000 lumens or more.

1000 Lumens for Home Defense: Too Bright or Not?

It depends on the situation. In a small, enclosed space like a bedroom or hallway, a flashlight with 1000 lumens may be too bright and could potentially blind you as well as the attacker.

However, in a larger space like a backyard or parking lot, a brighter flashlight could be more effective in disorienting an attacker and giving you time to react. It’s also important to consider the beam pattern of the flashlight.

A flashlight with a narrow beam may be more effective in blinding an attacker, while a wider beam may be better for illuminating a larger area.

In conclusion, while 1000 lumens may be too bright for some situations, it can be effective in self-defense when used appropriately. It’s important to choose a flashlight that fits your needs and preferences and practice using it in different scenarios to ensure you are prepared in an emergency.

How many lumens can permanently blind you?

The human eye can only handle a certain amount of light before it becomes damaged. According to the American National Standards Institute (ANSI), the maximum permissible exposure (MPE) for a flashlight is 2,500 lumens for a duration of 0.25 seconds. Anything above this level can cause permanent eye damage.

Note that:

MPE is based on a single exposure and does not consider repeated exposure over time. This means that even a flashlight with a lower lumen output can cause permanent eye damage if it is repeatedly shone directly into someone’s eyes.

In addition to the lumen output, the beam pattern of the flashlight can also play a role in causing permanent eye damage. A flashlight with a narrow beam pattern can focus the light into a smaller area, increasing the intensity of the light and potentially causing more damage.

In conclusion, use it responsibly and be aware of the potential for permanent eye damage. Always aim the flashlight away from someone’s face and use it only when necessary.