It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about 200-pound alligator gar in a Texas reservoir, a 3-foot longnose in a Minnesota river, or a 5-pound shortnose in an Arkansas slough-they’re all first-class sportfish. They’re all willing biters, too, often revealing their location during summer by rolling on the surface to gulp air. They’re also powerful fighters who will launch their muscular armor-plated body into the air when hooked. The problem with gar is their tooth-filled mouth and habit of running long distances with a bait before swallowing it. This makes them difficult to hook and land with traditional rigs. But a handful of modified rigs will catch any species of gar wherever they swim.

Hooks

Gar lack any appreciable amount of flesh in their mouth, making hookups with large single hooks difficult. Small sharp treble hooks penetrate faster and the additional hook points increase your chance of a good set. Lip hook a baitfish with a #6 to #2 treble hook on a set or float rig. Gar often grab the bait sideways and slowly swim off. Wait until the fish stops and starts to swallow the bait. When he starts to run again, set the hook firmly. Quick-strike rigs and lures with multiple treble hooks increase your chance of a hookup without risking injury caused by swallowed hooks.

Snares

Wire snares like those used to catch rabbits may be the most effective gar rig of all. Make a snare by wrapping one end of a 2-foot piece of stainless steel wire around a heavy barrel swivel. Run the free end of the wire through the back of a lively baitfish, just below the dorsal fin. Swing the free end back toward the swivel and form a loose loop that slides easily on the leader. Tie your main line to the swivel and cast the rig onto a shallow flat. When a gar grabs the bait, a firm pull will tighten the snare around its beak.

Ropes

Versatile lures and flies also can be fashioned from strands of frayed nylon rope. Cut a 3- to 6-inch piece of 3/8-inch nylon rope, and thread it onto the shank of a hook, jighead, or spinnerbait as you would a plastic worm. Use a flame to fuse the rope to the hook shank, then wrap over the melted rope with strong thread or braided line. Cover the thread wraps with a couple coats of epoxy to increase the lure’s durability. Unravel the nylon strands the the base of the head, and you’re ready to fish. When a gar strikes, the lure becomes tangled in its teeth and around its snout.

Jugs

Jugs, or pop-ups as they’re called in the south, are similar to the juglines used by catfishermen. They consist of a 4-foot section of PVC pipe or a sturdy branch tied to 2-liter soda bottle. One end of a 2-foot wire leader is attached to the branch, the other to a large study hook baited with livebait or cutbait. Fleets of jugs are drifted across shallow flats at night. When a fish begins its second run, indicating it has swallowed the bait, the angler grabs the limb and attempts to haul the fish aboard.

Best all terrain tires for snow: In the world of all-terrain tires, navigating through the plethora of options can be a daunting task, especially when it comes to finding the perfect set for snow. Two common classifications of tires that you may come across are the M+S (Mud and Snow) and the 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake (3PMSF) certified tires. But how do you know which one will provide the best performance in snowy conditions? In this article, we will focus on the top 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake certified all-terrain tires, as they have been proven to deliver superior traction and safety in snow compared to their M+S counterparts.

M+S tires are designed to offer improved traction in muddy and light snow conditions, but they do not undergo the same rigorous testing as 3PMSF certified tires. The 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake symbol signifies that a tire has met or exceeded stringent industry standards for severe snow performance, making them the optimal choice for those who frequently drive in heavy snow or icy conditions. So, without further ado, let’s delve into the world of 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake all-terrain tires and discover the best options for conquering the snowy terrain.

Off road segmentation

When it comes to a pick up truck, the main segmentation of tires comes in the form of on/off road terrain groups. However in this class of tires, there is an even further distribution as below:

All terrain road (ATR) is a relatively new segment mainly driven by the R117 regulation over in Europe to ensure tires meet a maximum threshold of noise level as determined by regulation. Due to the relationship between pattern void volume and noise, this forces the industry to shift towards a lower void design to meet the noise requirements. Hence this spurred the creation of this new segment which has 70% on road & 30% off road focus.

All terrain (AT) is a well known segmentation whereby users do tend to enjoy the fair share of off road activities. Most of the pick up trucks who want to explore the off road activities on a monthly basis do tend to choose this segmentation. The AT segment has a 50% on road & 50% off road focus. There is however an even higher off road segmentation called mud terrain (MT) which has 70% off road and 30% on road. Recently most ATR segment tires.

All season 3 peak mountain

All season tires have always been the go to tires for the American market and this segment has been well established across the years. There are 2 types of all season tires, one with 3 peak mountain & one with only M+S. We have covered these 2 types of tire head to head with Michelin’s Defender T+H (M+S) vs Cross Climate 2 (3 peak mountain) and the M+S all season tires usually are worst in winter performances but excel much better in mileage.

If you are in an area which snows quite heavily, 3 peak mountain all season tires would be definitely a good choice. Below are the best all terrain tires for snow rank based on a compilation of test results.

All terrain road (ATR) with 3 peak mountain

1. BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A

When it comes to off-road tires, no brand is as well known as BFGoodrich. Many consider them as the “God” of all/mud terrain tires and have made their name true countless tire wins in the Baja competitions. BFGoodrich launched its latest foray into the ATR segment with the product called “Trail-Terrain T/A” in 2021. Based on the test results, Trail-Terrain T/A had a big advantage in snow & ice performances while having a low wet & dry performance. The main trade off is between winter against summer performance in this case. If you need a winter performance tire, Trail-Terrain T/A would be definitely a good choice for you.

• BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A
  • Launch: 2021
  • Press test wins: 0/1
  • Strength: Excellent snow.

Check out our head to head comparison of Trail-Terrain T/A against its competitors.

BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A vs

• Falken WildPeak A/T Trail

Price

• 265/60R18 : $244

PS: Updated snow results

The BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A demonstrates superior snow and ice performance compared to its competitors, the Falken WildPeak A/T Trail and the Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015. In snow braking, acceleration, and handling (both subjective and lap time), the Trail-Terrain T/A consistently outperforming the WildPeak A/T Trail and closely matching the Geolandar in certain aspects. Furthermore, on ice braking, the Trail-Terrain T/A still held its top position with a score of 100%, whereas both the WildPeak A/T Trail and Geolandar A/T G015 lagged behind by up to -20%. In summary, for snow and ice conditions, the BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A is the clear front-runner.

2. Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015

Introduced in 2016, the Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015 has quickly become a popular choice for drivers seeking a versatile all-terrain tire with impressive snow performance. While it came in just slightly behind the BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A in Tire Rack’s testing, the Geolandar A/T G015 still offers excellent traction and handling on snow-covered roads. Combining Yokohama’s advanced tire technology with a focus on durability and comfort, the Geolandar A/T G015 has proven itself to be a reliable option for those who face a variety of terrains and weather conditions.

• Geolandar A/T G015
  • Launch: 2016
  • Press test wins: 0/3
  • Strength: Snow & ice

Check out our head to head comparison of Geolandar A/T G015 against its competitors.

Geolandar A/T G015 vs

• Falken WildPeak A/T Trail

Price

• 265/60R18 : $239

3. Falken WildPeak A/T Trail

The Falken WildPeak A/T Trail is renowned for its outstanding performance on both wet and dry terrains. It consistently delivers impressive traction and stability during rainy seasons and on dry roads, making it a top choice for those in predominantly wet or summer climates. However, when it comes to snow and ice, the WildPeak A/T Trail shows some limitations, especially when compared to the Trail-Terrain T/A which excels in winter conditions. For those prioritizing snow and ice performance, the Trail-Terrain T/A stands out. But for those in milder winter conditions and dominant summer weather, the WildPeak A/T Trail is hard to beat.

• WildPeak A/T Trail
  • Launch: 2019
  • Press test wins: 0/1
  • Strength: Wet & dry

Check out our head to head comparison of WildPeak A/T Trail against its competitors.

WildPeak A/T Trail vs

• Nitto Nomad Grappler
• Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015
• BFGoodrich Trail-Terrain T/A

Price

• 235/60R18 : $209

4. Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S

Launched in 2018, Cooper’s Discoverer AT3 4S has quickly made a name for itself in the world of all-terrain tires. With outstanding snow performance as verified by Tire Rack’s comprehensive tests, this tire has proven to be an exceptional choice for those who need reliable traction and safety in snowy conditions. The Discoverer AT3 4S combines innovative technology and Cooper’s years of experience to deliver a tire that excels in both on-road comfort and off-road capability, making it a top pick for drivers looking to conquer any terrain.

• Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S
  • Launch: 2021
  • Press test wins: 2/4
  • Strength: Excellent in wet & snow

Check out our head to head comparison of Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S against its competitors.

Cooper Discoverer AT3 4S vs

• Kumho Road Venture AT52
• General Grabber APT
• Continental TerrainContact A/T

Price

• 265/60R18 : $264

5. Firestone Destination A/T2

The Firestone Destination A/T2 is a noteworthy contender in the all-terrain tire market, having achieved reasonable snow performance results in Tire Rack’s testing. This tire not only offers a dependable grip on snowy surfaces but also excels in various other conditions. Adding to its list of accolades, the Destination A/T2 recently emerged as the best tire in the highly popular 2022 Tyre Reviews All Terrain Tyre Test. With a well-rounded performance across different terrains and a growing reputation for reliability, the Firestone Destination A/T2 is undoubtedly a solid choice for drivers seeking a versatile and high-performing all-terrain tire.

• Destination A/T2
  • Launch: 2019
  • Press test wins: 1/3
  • Strength: Dry

Check out our head to head comparison of Destination A/T2 against its competitors.

Destination A/T2 vs

• Continental TerrainContact A/T

Price

• 265/60R18 : $259

All terrain (AT) with 3 peak mountain

1. Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T

Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T: A Legacy of Dominance

Mickey Thompson’s Baja Boss A/T is not just another tire in the market; it stands tall on a legacy of tire-making excellence. Combining aggressive aesthetics with unparalleled on-road handling and performance, this extreme hybrid all-terrain tire symbolizes the very essence of Mickey Thompson’s commitment to quality. The asymmetrical tread design ensures reduced noise and superior all-weather performance, while its Extreme Sidebiters® offer an extraordinary look and exceptional off-road traction. Enhanced with the Powerply™ XD and a Silica-Reinforced Compound, it guarantees puncture resistance, quicker steering response, and improved wet handling. And with a 50,000-mile tread wear warranty, the Baja Boss A/T doesn’t just talk the talk but walks the walk.

Winter Performances: Defining Snow Mastery

When pitched against its close competitors, the Falken WildPeak A/T3W and the Toyo Open Country A/T III, the Baja Boss A/T showcases distinctive prowess in snow conditions. Let’s dissect the numbers:

1. Snow Braking: With 60.30 feet, the Baja Boss A/T stops more abruptly than both the WildPeak A/T3W and the Open Country A/T III, requiring 82.20 and 80.60 feet respectively.
2. Snow Acceleration: This metric is where Baja Boss A/T shines brightly. At just 13.60 feet (0-12 Mph), it accelerates significantly faster in snowy conditions than the WildPeak A/T3W and the Open Country A/T III, which require 19.10 and 19.40 feet respectively.
3. Snow Handling (Subjective): Scoring 4.92 out of 10, the Baja Boss A/T is ahead of the WildPeak A/T3W’s 3.83, though slightly trailing the Open Country A/T III’s 4.67.
4. Ice Braking: On icy terrains, the three tires are closely matched, with the Baja Boss A/T stopping at 57.50 feet, slightly ahead of the others.

In conclusion, the Baja Boss A/T by Mickey Thompson doesn’t merely ride on its legacy but establishes itself as a leader, particularly in snowy conditions. The numbers are clear: for those prioritizing winter performance, the Baja Boss A/T stands out as the best snow tire in the market.

• Baja Boss A/T
  • Launch: 2021
  • Press test wins: 0/1
  • Strength: Excellent snow !

Check out our head to head comparison of Baja Boss A/T against its competitors.

Baja Boss A/T vs

• Falken WildPeak A/T3W
• Toyo Open Country A/T III

Price

• 265/60R18 : $291

2. Toyo Open Country A/T III

The Toyo Open Country A/T III is an embodiment of technological advancement in the realm of all-terrain tires. Designed to cater to the needs of light trucks, SUVs, and crossovers, it stands as a testament to Toyo’s commitment to revolutionize the tire industry. Following the footsteps of its predecessor, the Toyo Open Country A/T II, this latest iteration introduces a more aggressive tread pattern, advanced rubber compounds, and numerous features that enhance its grip and durability. Among these, its new tread compound ensures enhanced wet braking, improved handling, and resists cut-and-chip, making it a reliable companion for both off-road adventures and city drives. The tire’s evenly distributed void area improves traction, both on and off the road, and ensures stable handling. Its staggered shoulder lugs offer impressive off-road traction, while the increased lateral grooves magnify its prowess on varied terrains, including snow. The 3D multi-wave sipes not only improve wet and snow traction but also diminish irregular wear. Lastly, the stone-ejecting blocks ensure that the tire remains undamaged, maintaining its performance in tough conditions.

Diving into its winter performance and comparing it to its peers like the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T and the Falken WildPeak A/T3W, the Toyo Open Country A/T III showcases notable strengths. In snow braking, it demands only 80.60 feet to come to a halt, closely tailing the Baja Boss A/T but surpassing the WildPeak A/T3W. When we assess snow acceleration, the Open Country A/T III registers a commendable performance, requiring just 19.40 feet from 0-12 Mph, which is almost at par with the WildPeak A/T3W. As for snow handling, it scores an impressive 4.67 out of 10, beating the WildPeak A/T3W and just slightly behind the Baja Boss A/T. However, its true dominance is evident in ice braking, where it halts at a mere 54.80 feet, outperforming both of its competitors.

• Open Country A/T III
  • Launch: 2020
  • Press test wins: 0/1
  • Strength: Great snow handling !

Check out our head to head comparison of Open Country A/T III against its competitors.

Open Country A/T III vs

• Falken WildPeak A/T3W
• Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T

Price

• 265/60R18 : $283

3. Falken WildPeak A/T3W

When it comes to exceptional winter performance in all-terrain tires, the Falken WildPeak A/T3W undoubtedly stands out. Specifically crafted for those who seek unmatched performance without compromising on safety and durability, this tire is a testament to Falken’s dedication to innovation and quality. Its advanced engineering ensures that the tire not only grips the road seamlessly in harsh snowy conditions but also offers longevity and reliability.

Looking at its winter performance metrics and juxtaposing it with competitors such as the Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T and the Toyo Open Country A/T III, the WildPeak A/T3W showcases its merits. In the snow braking test, it requires 82.20 feet to stop, which is slightly longer than both the Baja Boss A/T and the Open Country A/T III. However, it’s in the snow acceleration where the WildPeak A/T3W weakness was shown, registering an 19.10 feet from 0-12 Mph, placing last in the group. While its subjective snow handling score of 3.83 out of 10 trails the other two tires, it’s essential to note that this is a subjective measure, and preferences can vary based on individual experience. But where the WildPeak A/T3W genuinely shines is in ice braking. Stopping at just 55.80 feet, it surpasses the Baja Boss A/T and is incredibly close to the leading Toyo Open Country A/T III.

• WildPeak A/T3W
  • Launch: 2013
  • Press test wins: 0/4
  • Strength: Good ice braking

Check out our head to head comparison of WildPeak A/T3W against its competitors.

WildPeak A/T3W vs

• Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T
• Toyo Open Country A/T III
• Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revo 3

Price

• 265/60R18 : $275

4. Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT

Goodyear’s Wrangler Workhorse AT was launched in 2021 with an all season focus and it is specific only for the American market. Based on the head to head comparison below, Wrangler Workhorse AT was good in dry, noise & objective ice/snow but was weak in wet and subjective snow performances.

• Wrangler Workhorse AT
  • Launch: 2021
  • Press test wins: 0/1
  • Strength: Dry. noise & objective ice/snow

Check out our head to head comparison of Wrangler Workhorse AT against its competitors.

Wrangler Workhorse AT vs

• Cooper Discoverer Rugged Trek

Price

• 265/60R18 : $251

5. Cooper Discoverer Rugged Trek

Cooper’s Discoverer Rugged Trek was launched in 2021 and has been developed specifically for the North American market. Based on the head to head comparison below, Discoverer Rugged Trek was strong in wet and subjective snow performances while lacking behind dry, noise & objective ice/snow.

• Discoverer Rugged Trek
  • Launch: 2021
  • Press test wins: 0/1
  • Strength: wet & subjective snow

Check out our head to head comparison of Discoverer Rugged Trek against its competitors.

Discoverer Rugged Trek vs

• Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse

Price

• 265/60R18 : $275

Summary

In conclusion, selecting the right all-terrain tire for snow is crucial for ensuring optimal performance, safety, and driving comfort. Among the top contenders, the 3-Peak Mountain Snowflake certified tires stand out for their superior traction and handling in snowy conditions. Each tire mentioned in this article offers its unique set of strengths, making it essential for drivers to weigh their specific needs and preferences. Whether it’s the Cooper’s Discoverer AT3 4S, Yokohama Geolandar A/T G015, Firestone Destination A/T2, Mickey Thompson Baja Boss A/T, or Toyo Open Country A/T III, all of these options have proven their worth in the all-terrain tire market. By carefully considering the features and performance aspects of each tire, you can make an informed decision and confidently conquer the snow and various terrains that lie ahead.

Whether you’re narrowing the gap between food and your table, connecting more deeply to nature through conservation, or extending your hunting seasons with archery gear, you’ll never run short of great reasons to try bowhunting.

Gearing up to bowhunt is exciting, and it’s much simpler than most people realize. To help you better understand what you need for your first bowhunt, let’s review 10 basic bowhunting tools.

1. Compound Bow

Obviously, a bow of some sort is your most basic need. You have three bow types to choose from, starting with the compound bow. These bows are nearly standard issue for bowhunting today. They’re easier to shoot than traditional recurves or longbows, but require more practice than crossbows to become proficient. Modern compound bows are efficient and don’t require extraordinary strength to draw and shoot.

When selecting a bow, it’s best to seek help from an expert at an archery shop. Hunting bows are not “one size fits all.” Make sure you choose a bow that matches your fit and bowhunting needs. You must become as accurate as possible to enjoy shooting and be lethal in the woods.

2. Traditional Bow

Traditional recurves or longbows are bowhunting’s simplest weapons. These bows have been used thousands of years, and are more effective today than when our ancestors carried them for hunting and self-protection. Shooting and harvesting game animals with these basic bows is also challenging and rewarding.

Drawing a traditional bow that’s powerful enough to take game animals like deer, elk or bears requires more strength than drawing a compound bow. However, their simplicity makes them the most affordable option for prospective bowhunters with tight budgets.

3. Crossbow

Until recently crossbow hunting was mostly reserved for senior citizens, or people with injuries or disabilities. Today, most states and Canadian providences allow crossbows during part or all of the regular archery season. Crossbows reduce the learning curve needed to shoot arrows proficiently. Most crossbow archers prefer aiming with a scope like those used on hunting rifles. This makes crossbows fairly easy to shoot accurately, even for those with little or no experience. Crossbow prices vary, but they’re similar to prices for compound bows.

4. Arrows

Once you’ve selected a hunting bow, it’s time to pick your arrows. Arrows must be matched to your bow’s draw weight and draw length. To ensure you make the right choice, consult experts at the nearest archery store.

5. Broadheads

For most target practice, archers shoot arrows tipped with practice points. When it’s time to prepare for bowhunting season, swap your field points for broadheads. Broadheads wield razor-sharp blades that cut through a game animal’s hide, flesh and organs to cause quick, ethical harvesting. Broadheads come in nearly infinite options, but some might be better suited than others for the quarry you hunt and the bow you shoot. Again, ask an expert for advice to ensure your broadhead matches your setup.

6. Bow Accessories

This is a broad category. The accessories you need depend on your bow and your budget. Those shooting a compound, crossbow or traditional bow must have a hooded quiver to carry their broadhead-tipped arrows. Most hunting quivers attach to the bow or crossbow, but some bowhunters prefer quivers they carry over a shoulder or attach to a pack.

Next, arrow-rests hold the arrow in place while drawing and shooting. The options are many, and the styles vary by bow and personal preference. Release-aids attach the bowhunter to the bowstring, and feature a trigger that releases the arrow.

Release-aids are standard gear for shooting a compound bow. Those shooting traditional bows use a shooting glove or finger tab, which protects the shooter’s fingers when drawing the bowstring and releasing the shot.

A bow-sight is a reference point for aiming, and typically has one to six pins the shooter adjusts individually to precise distances. You’ll find plenty of options for bow-sights, and the archery store’s pros can help you find your best option. Even so, a sight is not absolutely necessary for some bowhunters, especially those shooting traditional gear. However, they’re a great training aid when learning archery, and deliver consistent accuracy.

Bowhunters who use crossbows require fewer accessories than those using vertical bows. Crossbows are commonly sold in kits with everything needed to start shooting, but many options exist if you dislike what’s included.

Scopes, for example, come in various magnifications, and at highly varying price points. Be sure to consult an archery pro to determine which scope meets your hunting needs.

Crossbow hunters also require a cocking device, which helps them draw the bow and lock its string into the fire-ready position. A simple string-cocker uses a rope and pulleys for this task, but some crossbows feature a hand crank that makes the job nearly effortless.

7. Clothing

Bowhunting and camouflage go hand in hand. Camo helps bowhunters remain unseen so unsuspecting game approaches within range. Matching camo to your hunting area can feel overwhelming, but experts at an archery or sporting-goods store can help.

No matter what you choose, be sure to dress in layers. Bowhunting can require bouts of vigorous, sweat-pumping activity followed by long stretches of wet, chilly waiting in harsh elements. Layering helps you stay comfortable by adding or removing layers to match the situation.

8. Backpack

You’ll need a hunting pack to carry your gear, water, snacks, licenses and hunting gear. If you plan to hunt where you’ll often hike long distances, consider a pack that can carry your bow. And if you hunt areas accessible only by foot, choose a pack that’s substantial enough to help pack out your animal.

9. Boots

Veteran bowhunters put good boots at or near the top of their gear list. Whether you’re sitting, still-hunting or spot-and-stalk hunting, boots are vital to consistent success. If you regularly hike a mile or more to reach hunting sites, your boots must offer comfort and support. Stand-hunters, meanwhile, usually place priority on boots that keep their feet warm all day.

10. Ground Blind/Treestand

Stand-hunters hide out and wait in treestands or ground blinds for animals to come into bow range. Ground blinds are essentially small, portable camouflage tents that set up where you hunt. Treestands conceal bowhunters by elevating them above the animal’s normal view. Both are excellent options. If you bowhunt from a treestand – the most common method for bowhunting deer – never leave the ground without wearing a full-body safety harness to prevent a fall.

No matter your hunting style, also carry binoculars and a rangefinder. Binoculars help you search the landscape for game and identify it. And rangefinders quickly pinpoint the distance to your quarry.

Did you get all that? No matter which bow you choose or the style of bowhunting you try, expect an adrenaline rush like you’ve never experienced when that deer, bear, elk or turkey walks into range. And to ensure you’re ready for that big moment, start scouting now to find a nearby bowhunting shop to help guide you along.

By: Tyler Ridenour of Bowhunting360.com

A 33.24-kilogram lake trout.

A greenish-grayish speckled whopper the weight of a golden retriever.

That’s a big fish.

And that’s the fish that Scott Enloe reeled in from the Blue Mesa Reservoir, a man-made lake in Colorado, last week.

Enloe’s catch poses a challenge to the record set by angler Lloyd Bull, who pulled a 32.6-kilogram lake trout from waters in the Northwest Territories in 1995.

“It’s obviously the largest one I’ve ever seen,” Enloe said of his remarkable haul.

“It was exactly 47 inches long and it had a 37-inch girth … I’m a 35-inch waist and it was bigger than me.”

Catch may not officially break record

But Enloe’s catch may not make it into the International Game Fish Association’s (IGFA) record books, where Bull holds the top lake trout spot.

That’s because the organization requires that fish be weighed on land.

Enloe weighed, measured and photographed his fish on his boat — and then he let it go.

“Whether I get my name in the books or not, that’s irrelevant to me,” he said. “I was not going to kill the fish regardless.”

Zac Bellapigna, angler recognition coordinator for the IGFA, said Enloe wouldn’t have had to kill his trout, necessarily. Fishers can bring their fish to shore, weigh them, and release them alive.

“I commend him for releasing the fish alive, that’s a good thing,” said Bellapigna.

‘One of the best fishing spots in the world’

About 3,000 kilometres north of the Blue Mesa Reservoir sits the majestic Great Bear Lake, site of an Indigenous-led UNESCO-recognized biosphere reserve. It’s known for producing some of the biggest lake trout ever caught.

“Growing up, we caught a lot of pretty big trout,” said Naokah Bailes, who was raised in the Sahtu region and has been fishing in Great Bear Lake since she was small.

“Little did I know I was actually fishing at probably one of the best fishing spots in the world.”

The people who know Great Bear Lake, or who’ve visited, give many reasons for why the lake is a unique place to cast a line.

For one, it’s huge — one of the world’s largest — and there’s only one community on its shores: Délı̨nę, which has a population of a little over 600.

“It’s such a small community, right?” said Bailes. “Even if someone’s out there fishing all day, the lake is so big we would never have an actual impact on the fish populations.”

Even bigger fish netted in Great Bear Lake in 2009

Ask people in the Délı̨nę about fish, and one name comes up again and again: George Kenny.

Kenny netted a lake trout from Great Bear topping 38 kilograms in 2009.

That fish didn’t survive, and it’s now memorialized in the community’s Great Bear Lodge.

“There’s something about the genetics, also, in Great Bear Lake that produces very large fish,” said Mike Bryant, who once penned a column as the “Fishin’ Technician” and is now the group publisher for Northern News Services in Yellowknife.

Not all its trout grow to “super sizes,” he said, but a strain of them do.

Bryant, who visited the lake in 1997 and plans to return this summer, pointed out that a good chunk of IGFA’s lake trout line class records have been set at Great Bear Lake.

“Great Bear Lake is like an aquarium. It’s full of fish,” said Danny Gaudet, Ɂekw’ahtide (leader) of the Deline Got’ine government.

Gaudet also fishes — but for food, not trophies.

There’s nothing that compares to the meat on a Great Bear Lake fish, he said, and you’re always guaranteed to catch one.

Gaudet said that if more tourists travel to Great Bear Lake for fishing, and fish in a sustainable way, it could benefit the community’s economy.

It’s one reason why he says he’s actually happy for Scott Enloe, because big catches like that draw in tourism.

“If it sustains that economy for them, that’s great,” he said. “Of course, we’re from Great Bear Lake and we will break the record again.”

The beaver is an abundant furbearer throughout most of North America, and trapping is an enjoyable and rewarding activity that can produce high quality fur pelts for mittens or hats, and meat that makes excellent table fare. Beavers are quite easy to locate, and easy to trap once you get them figured out. A wide variety of traps are used to catch beaver. The best beaver trap probably depends on your individual situation. Let’s take a look at the options.

330 Conibear / Bodygrip Trap

The 330 is the most common trap used to catch beaver. It is a large bodygripping trap (also often referred to as a ‘Conibear’) typically measuring 10″x10″. The 330 is usually placed in blind sets along a beaver’s natural travelway. As the beaver moves along a trail or run in the water or at the water’s edge, it travels through the trap opening, trips the trigger and is caught. The 330 is designed to be a quick kill trap, which is very humane and effective. Being such a big and powerful trap, it can be very dangerous if not handled or used properly. Be sure to take precautions, use safety devices where appropriate, and never set these traps in a location where they could catch a domestic animal. Most states require these traps be set in water to avoid catching nontarget animals.

330 traps are made by a variety of manufacturers, including Duke, Bridger, Victor (the owner of the name ‘Conibear’), Belisle, and RBG. The Duke 330’s are the cheapest and provide the best bang for your buck. They are actually a bit smaller than most 330’s, measuring 10″x9″ instead of 10″x10″. Bridger and Duke both make a magnum version of this trap (Bridger’s is 10″x10″, Duke’s is 10″x9″), which closes completely without any gaps, and often results in extra catches by holding beavers that are only caught by the tail, foot or other body part that would allow them to pull out of most other traps. The only thing I don’t like about the magnum style is that I find some of them very difficult to set, particularly the Bridgers. Some adjustment can help with this. The Belisle 330’s are also a magnum type trap but with a different jaw style. They are made of top quality construction, have superior safety catches and triggers, and are the top of the line trap with a correspondingly high price tag. RBG bodygrip traps are unique in that the jaws are shaped in a circle rather than a square, appealing to an animal’s natural tendency to enter round openings.

330’s can catch otter as well, especially if the trigger is configured to cover a large percentage of the jaw opening. They also catch the occasional muskrat that trips the trigger in just the right location while swimming at the right speed.

Although the 330 is by far the most common beaver trap, other sizes can be used to take beavers as well. The 280 bodygrip trap has an opening of 8″x8″. It can catch beavers in the right situation, particularly in areas with very small runs and trails. Smaller beaver are more likely to be caught in 280’s, but I have caught larger beavers in these traps occasionally as well. With the smaller trap it can be a challenge to get the beaver to swim through the opening. Sometimes they’ll swim around the trap instead. Some trappers have good success using 280’s when they are baited as opposed to using them in blind sets. Although beavers can be caught in 220 bodygrip traps, with 7″x7″ jaw spreads, it’s not as common and I wouldn’t recommend it. On the other end of the spectrum, Minnesota Brand makes a huge bodygrip trap, the MB 1216, which measures 12″x16″ and is designed to cover large, wide runs. This can also be a very effective trap, but misses are possible as well, because a beaver can often swim through the large opening without setting the trigger off at all, or setting it off too late to be effectively caught. RBG makes a Big Bear, a 10″x22″ opening trap, that works on the same principal.

TS-85

The TS-85 has been gaining in popularity among beaver trappers for years. This coil spring foothold trap has a massive 8.5 inch jaw spread, which allows for a large target area for the beaver to put its foot and get caught. Foothold traps for beaver are most commonly set as drowning sets in the water near shore. They are designed to catch a beaver as it approaches the shore or enters the water from land. Proper depth and guide sticks, as well as lure and bait placement all play a part in a trapper’s success using footholds for beaver. The TS-85 was designed by professional trapper Tim Sawatzky and has a lot of experience behind it. The trap is easy to set and has several features, including a dogless design with easily adjustable pan tension and high lever lockup on the jaws. It’s a nice trap for the money and my favorite beaver foothold trap.

MB-750

The MB-750 is a beast of a trap. Designed and built by Minnesota Trapline Products, the trap is super strong and sports a 7+ inch jaw spread, smaller than the TS-85 but still pretty large. One unique feature of the trap is that it has a locking mechanism that holds both jaws down, eliminating the loose jaw. Some trapper have issues with the loose jaw being flipped up by a beaver while moving through the set area, causing the trap to fail to connect. The fact that this trap has no loose jaw, however, means that it’s a bit dangerous to set for the inexperienced – your fingers are right in the danger zone when making any adjustments to the pan!

Related: MB-750 Beaver/Otter Trap Review

WCS Pro 7.5

The WCS Pro 7.5 is basically a reboot of the extremely popular CDR trap. The CDR was a 7.5 inch jaw spread beaver trap a simple, effective design. The WCS Pro 7.5 features a solid chain and swivel system, wire levers which make it fast underwater, and the Paws-I-Trip pan system, a very popular feature that I’m a big fan of.

Bridger #5

The Bridger #5 is a work horse of a beaver trap with a simple design and a very reasonable price tag. Minnesota Trapline Products has made some recent improvements to the trap design and construction. It’s a good contender in the beaver foothold trapping game.

No-BS Beaver Extreme

Kendall Obermeir has made some noise in the trapping industry with a new line of No-BS traps that are super impressive. Their ruggedness of design, top quality products and workmanship and unique new features make these traps unique and worth checking out. The Beaver Extreme trap features heat treated steel, a lower pan, dogless design, and the traps are pre-coated from the factory.

Duke 850-FJ

The Duke 850 is the newest beaver trap on the market. The 850-FJ is the closed jaw model, designed for beaver (the offset jaw trap of the same name is designed for wolf and mountain lion). This trap is essentially a larger beefed up version of the Duke 550 or 650 traps, which were almost a carbon copy of the MB-550 coyote trap. The trap features heavy cast steel jaws, heavy duty chain and swivels, four coiled, and the Paws-I-Trip pan system. It’s a nice looking trap, but hasn’t been on the market long enough for me to really get a feel of how it works for different trappers.

So, What’s the Best Beaver Trap?

There are plenty of great options for beaver trappers these days, which makes it tough to determine the best trap. The 330 is the best type of bodygrip/conibear trap for beaver trapping without question, and if I had to choose a ‘best’ brand of 330 I’d go with Belisle. That said, all of them work and catch beavers effectively.

When it comes to foothold traps for beaver, it’s tough to say. The different models vary quite a lot. I prefer the TS-85, but there are advantages and disadvantages of each model, and I haven’t used them all extensively. Regardless of what you choose, if you pick from the list above you’ll have yourself an excellent beaver trap that will effectively catch beavers year after year.

“Nothing shoots flatter, hits harder,” said Alaskan Master Guide Coke Wallace nonchalantly, though with a slight grin. Without missing a beat, I added, “Or is more accurate.” Many riflemen can just as easily recite Weatherby’s immensely successful marketing motto; however, atop a ridgeline in the 49th state’s rugged interior, and nearly a quarter mile from a downed mountain monarch, that message rang especially true. And, on the cusp of Weatherby’s 70th anniversary, it couldn’t have been conveyed any better than with Roy Weatherby’s original magnum big-game chambering—the .270 Wby. Mag.

The BeginningsSimilar to that of bullet pioneer John A. Nosler, Roy Weatherby’s quest for “something better” had its origins in a failure in the hunting fields; in this case, it was a wounded—and ultimately lost—Utah mule deer buck in 1942. Reflecting on the unpleasant escapade, Weatherby pondered the virtues of high-velocity impacts; specifically, he theorized that total disintegration of the projectile maximized “shock,” even on less-than-ideal hits, and thus the result would be rapid expiration of the animal. Additionally, flatter trajectories and reduced time of flight reduced errors due to range misestimation and wind-driven bullet deflection, respectively. Weatherby’s thoughts on the matter first appeared in a rebuttal to a Sports Afield article entitled “Mania for Speed,” which was penned by Maj. Charles Askins. The result? A large portion of the magazine’s readers agreed with Weatherby’s beliefs, and some of them became his very first customers.

So began the Weatherby story.

According to Weatherby: The Man. The Gun. The Legend. by Grits and Tom Gresham, “By the time he started in business [1945], Roy had developed the .220 Rocket (based on the .220 Swift cartridge, with a changed taper and shoulder), the .257, .270, and .300 Weatherby Magnums.” Given the popularity of the .270 Win. at the time (and even now), it’s little wonder that the first of his proprietary magnum cartridges—developed in 1943—was a .270, too; however, his creation was a radical departure from normalcy. Weatherby first shortened the belted, .300 H&H Mag. case and greatly reduced its taper, thereby amassing additional space for propellant. Nosler Reloading Guide No. 7 reveals that the .270 Weatherby Magnum’s case capacity is approximately 82.0 grs. of water, which is about 17.4 grs. more than that of the Winchester cartridge. Next, he gave it an unusual, double-radius Venturi shoulder design, which, according to weatherby.com, “Increases the velocity of escaping gases without increasing the pressure within the cartridge, [and thus] results in higher velocity within standard pressure ranges.” Interestingly, whereas the .270 Winchester’s SAAMI-assigned maximum average pressure (MAP) is 65,000 p.s.i., once “adopted” in 1994, the .270 Weatherby Magnum’s MAP was set at 62,500 p.s.i.

Delving deeper, the .270 Win. has a maximum case length of 2.540″, so the .270 Wby. Mag. at 2.549″ is ever so slightly longer. Moreover, while the .270 Win.’s cartridge overall length (COL) is 3.340″, its Weatherby counterpart is a shorter 3.295″. The COL alone was instrumental in Weatherby’s initial success, as it was a relatively simple procedure to re-chamber an existing .270 Win.-chambered rifle for his brainchild; in fact, the process only required re-reaming the chamber and altering the bolt face diameter (0.473″ to 0.532″) and the magazine. Weatherby offered similar conversions from .300 H&H Mag. to his potent .300 Wby. Mag.

The aforementioned case characteristics all contributed to Weatherby achieving his vision, as when loaded with identical bullets, the .270 Wby. Mag.’s velocities bettered those of the Winchester by 150 f.p.s. to 400 f.p.s., depending on the projectile’s weight. The cartridge design alone was insufficient to achieve said velocities, however; Weatherby also had to extend the rifling-free “throat,” or “free bore,” considerably, thereby enabling greater velocity potential without excessive pressure. Currently, weatherby.com lists the freebore length of .270 Wby. Mag.-chambered Mark V rifles as measuring 0.378″. Additionally, typical barrel lengths were 26″ or longer, which permitted better consumption (or a more complete burn) of the propellant.

As previously mentioned, Weatherby desired “total disintegration” of the bullet. As cited in Gresham, in a letter to gun writer Sam Fadala, Weatherby wrote, “I am one who wants that bullet to completely disintegrate inside an animal’s body. It seems to do more damage, by far, than just normal expansion.” Given the standard “cup-and-core” construction of the majority of the projectiles available at that time (and even today), significant weight loss, if not outright disintegration, was relatively easily achieved at velocities approaching 3000 f.p.s.; however, Weatherby’s hotrod .270 eclipsed that number by a significant margin. For example, factory numbers reveal that most of Weatherby’s 130-gr., .270 Wby. Mag. loads typically attain in excess of 3300 f.p.s. In comparison, bullets of identical weight fired from a .270 Win. achieve around 3100 f.p.s.

Weatherby’s views on high-velocity impacts and the .270 Wby. Mag. weren’t based on conjecture either, but rather on experience. For example, as detailed in Gresham, on June 14, 1948, Weatherby wrote, “Doctor shot his waterbuck, a fine one, too, with my .270 Magnum, about 150 yards. The waterbuck went down with a shoulder shot. When we skinned this fellow out, one could hardly imagine an animal being able to move after being shot the way he was with that .270 Magnum—he was torn up inside terribly.” Furthermore, on June 21, 1948, Weatherby reflected, “One thing is sure and that is—the bullet must be traveling at a certain velocity when it hits the animal in order to kill it by shock, no matter where it hits. I must find out at what distance or the velocity the bullet must hit the animal so that the shock instantly kills it. The .270 Magnum with the 150-grain Core-Lokt is not it—at least it has not proven to be so far. I am convinced at this point the 130-grain .270 bullet is superior at almost any point.” Ultimately, Weatherby concluded, “Of course, velocity means greater killing energy at greater distances—it also means more shock and greater destruction, but there is no substitute for the right spot … .”

Closing The DistanceFrom 1945 until 2002, when Winchester introduced the .270 Winchester Short Magnum (WSM), the .270 Wby. Mag. had reigned supreme in the realm of commercially available .270 chamberings—though it was considered proprietary until adopted by SAAMI in 1994. Following on the heels of its .30-cal. sibling, the .300 WSM, which was unveiled in 2001, the .270 WSM features a short, 2.100″-long non-belted case that, when loaded to a maximum COL of 2.860″, enables it to be chambered in lighter, short-action rifles. Despite its squat appearance, the case has minimal taper—from 0.555″ at the web to 0.538″ at the start of the shoulder—and a sharp, 35-degree shoulder that maximizes capacity. In Nosler Reloading Manual No. 7, the company lists its capacity as being about 73 grs. of water, which is approximately 9 grs. less than that of the .270 Wby. Mag. Because of its 65,000-p.s.i. MAP, though, the .270 WSM’s achievable velocities with most bullet weights are relatively close to those of Weatherby’s .270; the difference is usually within 125 f.p.s. or less. One must realize, though, that whereas the .270 Wby. Mag. is typically tested with a 26″ barrel, the .270 WSM is clocked from a 24″ tube, so direct comparisons are somewhat apples-to-oranges affairs. Is this enough to account for the velocity difference? Perhaps.

Really “muddying the waters,” if you will, concerning .270 supremacy, was Hornady’s introduction of Superformance ammunition. Through the formulization of highly progressive propellants, the company was able to achieve velocity increases upward of 200 f.p.s. from standard chamberings. The .270 Win. was among them; in fact, the 130-gr. loads attain 3200 f.p.s., which is 150-f.p.s. faster than SAAMI spec for “standard” loads and within 75 f.p.s. of .270 WSM loads using the same bullet weight. Interestingly, this is recorded from 24″ barrels in both chamberings, so it is a just comparison. Moreover, given that the .270 Win. has 9 grs. less case capacity, that is quite a remarkable feat. Since then, Remington has introduced its own “higher-than-normal-velocity” ammunition called “HyperSonic,” so the trend is building.

Taking the aforementioned into account, where does the .270 Wby. Mag. stand? There’s no doubt that, among the commercially available .270 chamberings, the Weatherby Magnum is still the fastest. That being said, the margin by which it’s ahead isn’t nearly as great as in the past; many .270 Win. and .270 WSM offerings are less than 100-f.p.s. slower than comparable .270 Wby. Mag. offerings. But, the growth of “long-range” hunting and shooting and leadless bullets gives the edge to the .270 Wby. Mag. Specialty “long-range” and long-for-weight lead-free projectiles occupy considerably more usable propellant space than their standard counterparts, which plays to the .270 Wby. Mag.’s voluminous case. Take the Nosler 150-gr. AccuBond Long Range (ABLR) for example, which measures an impressive 1.425″. Despite the bullet’s incredible length, the .270 Wby. Mag.’s case still has ample space for the propellant needed to achieve high velocities—an important factor in reducing drop and wind deflection (less time to target means less exposure to environmental conditions). Higher retained velocity also yields increased on-target energy. Remember, outside of long-range-specific bullets, most big-game bullets’ lower velocity limit for reliable expansion is 1800 f.p.s., so any increase is appreciated.

The .270 Weatherby Magnum’s ForteIn May 2013, I learned that I would be fortunate enough to hunt Dall sheep with Midnight Sun Safaris the following August. Although selecting the appropriate pack, boots and clothing would prove to be challenging, choosing the caliber, rifle and optic did not. Given the arduous climbing that would take place daily, cutting kit (and personal) weight was essential, as every ounce counts. Moreover, what better way to celebrate the upcoming 70th anniversary of Weatherby, Inc., than to use the Mark V Ultra Lightweight in Roy Weatherby’s first magnum chambering? The .270 Wby. Mag. is, after all, perhaps the best-suited option for sheep in the entire line. In discussions with Justin Moore, internet marketing manager for Weatherby, Inc., however, he suggested that I use the company’s valued-priced (soft-point), spitzer load (see sidebar p. 53). A flat-base “cup-and-core” bullet for sheep? To say I was surprised would be an understatement. “Trust me,” said Moore. Lastly, a Trijicon 3-9X 40 mm AccuPoint in Leupold rings and bases topped the rig.

After two days in transit, including a magnificent train ride from Anchorage to Denali National Park, our group was picked up at the train station by Coke Wallace, and the subsequent morning we were ferried via a single-prop airplane to “Moody International,” which is what Wallace named base camp. After confirming the scopes’ zeroes, we were prepared (or so we thought) for what lay ahead; boy, were we wrong. The next day proved to be the most difficult that I had ever encountered. During the 10-plus-hour arduous ascent toward a large band of rams, more than once I appreciated my choice of rifle. Despite our full effort, the rams evaded us, which lead to a long, tiresome and wet walk back to the horses; however, with it approaching 1:30 a.m. the next day, physically and mentally exhausted, drenched to the bone, and still about a half-mile from the horses, we decided to stop and start a fire to warm up and rest. It was the coldest night I’ve ever experienced. Welcome to sheep hunting!

After reaching the horses midmorning on day two (in a pouring rain no less), we headed for base camp, where we regrouped for the subsequent morning’s hunt. On day three, shortly after arriving in an unexplored drainage, Wallace and fellow guide Justin Cox spotted five rams near the top of a distant ridgeline. A Swarovski spotting scope confirmed that one ram met the stringent criteria for being legal to shoot. With cartridges in the magazine, but not chambered, Wallace, Cox, Moore and I began an ascent that, because of the rams’ vantage point, forced us to alternate approaches on several occasions. After more than an hour of climbing, we were finally within striking distance. Careful not to skyline ourselves, Cox and I crawled in advance of the others to reach a predetermined location for the shot. Just prior to exposing myself to their excellent eyesight, I chambered a round and deployed the Harris bipod. As I did so, Cox confirmed that the rams were 375 yds. away; however, because a younger (non-legal) ram stood nearby the elder one, I would have to wait for a shot. Finally, the immature animal moved a safe distance to the right, enabling me to take a shot. Having memorized the “drops” and drift at various distances, and with a 10-m.p.h. full-value crosswind, I applied the correct dope and pressed the trigger. At the shot, the ram bounded forward and stood motionless. Thinking that I had missed, I cycled the bolt and sent another soft point downrange, at which point the ram dropped and began an uncontrollable fall into what would prove to be a difficult-to-reach crevasse.

After reaching the animal more than an hour later, it was revealed that the first shot entered about 6″ behind the right shoulder and exited about 2″ behind the other, while the second shot entered about 2″ behind the right shoulder and exited through the left shoulder; in other words, both were lethal hits. Inside, there was considerable damage to both the lungs and the heart. I couldn’t have asked for better performance from a bullet at any price point. In addition to getting a beautiful trophy, the ram provided the finest meat that I’ve ever eaten, all thanks to Roy Weatherby’s .270—his original magnum and still among the best for long-range hunting.

Weatherby 130-gr. Spitzer Ammunition High-quality ammunition generally carries an equally premium price tag, and that reality is among the most difficult things for non-handloaders and the less-well-heeled to overcome in shooting Weatherby cartridges. Fortunately, a few years ago the company began offering an economical line of soft-point ammunition. Much of the cost of Weatherby ammunition comes from Norma purchasing premium, American-made bullets, having them shipped to Sweden, loading them and then transporting the ammunition back to America. While the Norma plant waits for said bullets to arrive, there can be down times in production. But, because the company also manufactures bullets, the decision was made to load its standard, cup-and-core spitzer bullets into Weatherby cartridges. And, because no purchasing or shipping costs (to the facility) are incurred, the savings can be passed on to the consumer. In fact, the loads (available in .240 Wby. Mag., .257 Wby. Mag., 270 Wby. Mag. and .300 Wby. Mag.) retail for $43 per 20 rounds, though I’ve seen them on midwayusa.com for $38. That is about half the price of the company’s premium offerings. As for the .270, the bullet, which has a .359 ballistic coefficient, is rated as reaching 3280 f.p.s. Given its non-bonded construction and the fact that there’s no built-in “mechanical lock,” considerable expansion is assured. For game up to and including caribou, these value-priced bullets are a good option. They certainly worked well for my once-in-a-lifetime shot on a Dall sheep.—Aaron Carter

.270 Wby. Mag.-Chambered RiflesAlthough there have been various rifles chambered for .270 Wby. Mag. through the years, including the Winchester Model 70 and Ruger No. 1, today, most are found within the American-made Weatherby Mark V line. Though the cartridge has yet to be released in the economical, Japanese-manufactured Vanguard Series II rifles, I am hopeful that will soon change. Mark V-series rifles chambered in .270 Wby. Mag. are: Ultra Lightweight and RC, Accumark, Deluxe, Lasermark, Sporter, Fibermark Composite, Euromark, Accumark RC, and Terramark RC. Among the newest is the Ultra Lightweight RC, which made its debut in 2014 and has a hand-laminated, raised comb Monte Carlo-style stock, 26″ free-floated stainless barrel with target crown, CNC-machined 6061 T-6 aluminum bedding plate, and six- or nine-lug fluted body bolt, depending on the chambering selected.

After the hunt, I spent considerable time at the range to wring out the aforementioned rifle; in total, I expended more than 200 rounds in meeting the American Rifleman accuracy protocol and function-testing. Of the four loads tested—Weatherby 130-gr. TSX, 130-gr. Spitzer and 150-gr. Partition, and Norma USA 150-gr. Oryx—the most accurate proved to be the 150-gr. Partition, which averaged 1.07″ for five consecutive, five-shot groups. The other loads averaged 1.22″ (130-gr. TSX), 1.40″ (130-gr. Spitzer) and 1.57″ (150-gr. Oryx). Recorded by an Oehler Model 36 chronograph at 13 ft., the velocities were: 3103 f.p.s., 3419 f.p.s., 3339 f.p.s., and 3160 f.p.s., respectively. The Mark V Ultra Lightweight RC retails for $2,400. The least-costly Mark V is the Fibermark, which retails for $1,400. Outside of Weatherby, Inc., .270 Wby. Mag.-chambered rifles can also be had in the E.R. Shaw Mark VII. Assuredly other custom builders will offer the chambering as well; however, they may, or may not, include Weatherby’s lengthy freebore. That is worth inquiring about.—Aaron Carter

• Click here for more articles on turkey hunting from Game & Fish

To be honest, it was the kind of day that I’d just as soon stayed at home and taken an overdue nap, even if the calendar was quickly running out of days to spring turkey hunt.

But instead, I dutifully got up and dressed in my camo duds, heading for the door and an afternoon turkey hunt with my longtime hunting pal Doug Rodgers as we headed west to his North Texas turkey lease.

I’ll admit, I wasn’t optimistic. In fact, if it weren’t for the prospect of some late-evening enchiladas at a nearby Tex-Mex place, I might not have even gone. Why? The wind, that’s why.

If you’ve ever hunted anywhere near the Great Plains, you know exactly what I’m talking about, heading out for a hunt when the wind blows and blows and blows.

Turning the weatherman’s anemometer at 25 miles per hour—or more—the southerly gale promised to pump up the atmosphere with unstable Gulf of Mexico moisture and make hearing a gobbler all but impossible.

Add in atmospheric instability from an approaching late-spring cold front, and the day was ripe for severe thunderstorms, hail stones, and tornadoes.

But not heavily bearded and long-spurred Rio Grande gobblers.

Stout wind or not, and tornado weather or not, Rodgers was determined to put yours truly on a good-sized gobbler that afternoon to help end a long drought on my turkey hunting scorecard.

Like a card shark with a couple of aces up his sleeve, the Whitesboro, Texas, resident had a good idea of when and where the birds might be moving about on that howling April afternoon.

Armed with a custom-built Lamar Williams boat paddle box call, Rodgers kept working that wild turkey music maker to noisy perfection, eventually striking up a couple of longbeard toms that could hear our loud calling even if we could barely hear their gobbling responses.

In fact, at one point, the biggest tom of the pair actually seemed to come off his feet as he gobbled aggressively in response to Rodger’s calling on the box call. But a gust of wind tore the music away from our ears and we couldn’t hear a syllable of the old boy’s response even if our eyes told us otherwise.

Less than a half-hour later, our game of wild-and-windy chess was over as I tagged the Rio Grande bird and Rodgers was putting another mental mark on his paddle call, the kind of wind-defeating instrument that Williams, a Starke, Fla., resident trained by the late great turkey call maker Neil Cost, specializes in turning out each year.

In fact, I’ve never been on a spring turkey hunt before or since with Rodgers where that butternut-and-cedar musical instrument wasn’t tucked away carefully in his turkey-hunting vest.

Truth be told, even if you hunt somewhere else outside of Texas, big winds are a common enemy of turkey hunters everywhere each spring, something that hunters all across the country have to battle in order to tag a longbeard.

One such hunter is Matt Morrett, friend of country music superstar Blake Shelton and a well-known hunting celebrity himself in TV shows, Facebook videos, and YouTube content put out by companies like Hunter Specialties, Avian-X Decoys and Zink Turkey Calls, among others, companies he formerly worked for.

A former world champion turkey caller, nowadays Morrett is the marketing director for the Pennsylvania Game Commission. In addition to promoting the outdoors in his home state every day, he still finds plenty of time to get out and chase longbeards.

With lots of Keystone State experience, as well as travels all across the country, Morrett—always one of my favorite interviews when it comes to turkey hunting—has seen the best and worst that the springtime chase of longbeards has to offer. And more than once, he’s felt the curse of the springtime wind as it blows across his neck.

“I’ve (been) to Alabama before where you get a cold front through and they just shut down,” said Morrett in an interview we had a couple of years ago. “I mean their mouths are shut. I think wind is the toughest thing about hunting any wild animal.”

But windy day or not, the annual spring game isn’t put on hold, at least from a wild turkey’s point of view.

“It’s not that they’re not trying to find hens, not that they’re not gobbling, not that they’re not trying to breed,” said Morrett. “But there’s so many things that go against you (as a turkey hunter) when it’s windy.”

“That’s because a turkey can’t see as well and he’s definitely jittery because he can’t hear as well.”

So how does a turkey hunter combat windy day gobblers in Texas, Alabama, or somewhere else?

1. Make Loud Calls

First, by being armed with a loud call that can cut through the building gale, one like the Lamar Williams boat paddle box call mentioned above or something like a Zink Turkey Calls Wicked Series crystal call.

The latter, a pot style friction call made of Brazilian cherry wood, utilizes the injection of acrylic into the wood and a crystal surface that offers top end high-pitch raspy calls that are loud and reach out to gobblers at a longer range than many other calls do.

2. Find the Sign

A second key to tagging a mature longbeard when the wind is howling is to do what Rodgers and I did years ago, and that’s to put yourself into areas where turkeys are known to roost, travel, feed, and breed. If the area is lousy with sign ranging from loose feathers to tracks to droppings to scratches in the dirt where gobbler wings have been dragging as big toms strut about, a good tip is to park your fanny there and wait.

Because no matter what the spring conditions are — from a snowstorm like the one that assaulted midwestern turkey grounds this week to triple-digit heat that is only days away in Texas, from drought to thunderstorms, from dead calm conditions to a hurricane-like gale — turkeys are going to continue to do what turkeys do each spring.

“Hens are going to go to the gobblers, they’re going to try to find food and they are going to try to find water,” said Morrett.

3. Use the Wind

A third tactic is to use the wind and put it in your favor while hunting. Eddie Salter, former host of Turkey Man on the Sportsman Channel and a turkey calling champion of great renown, follows a similar strategy when battling windy day gobblers, especially after the passage of a spring cold front.

That strategy centers around loud, aggressive calling and moving into the wind so that the sounds that a wild turkey gobbler makes will travel to the hunter’s ears and not be torn away from them.

4. Use the Terrain

A fourth strategy is to use the terrain to your advantage, seeking to use the wild turf in an effort to help keep the wind’s ill effects a bit tamer. While this isn’t easy in plains territory, it can be more effective in wooded areas, creek bottoms, and hilly terrain where the lay of the land can actually help you hear what’s going on a little better.

“What I try to do is get into an area where I know the birds are at and keep moving,” said Salter. “And if I can, (in hilly terrain) I try to stay down below them. That way, if I can get a bird to gobble, chances are that I may hear him.”

5. Just Go Hunting

And finally, a fifth strategy to employ is to simply get up and go hunting like I did earlier in this wild-turkey tale, even if it’s going to be a windy day. Because the bottom line is that hearing a gobbler on a blustery day means that the battle is already half won. For when the wind blows hard, any gobbler that is close enough to be heard is not very far away.

Armed with a good call and with any sort of springtime luck, the next sound that a hunter hears in the turkey woods might not be a lusty gobble, but it could be the sound of a very loud shotgun going Boom!

Even if that sound is quickly drowned out by the noise of the springtime wind as it blows and blows and blows. But you won’t mind at all as you smile and reach for the turkey tag about to be pulled from your back pocket.

Have you ever heard turkey drumming?

Most people think of purrs, gobbling and yelps when it comes to common wild turkey vocalizations. It’s easy to see why. They’re extremely common and easy to hear echoing through the spring woods.

But spring gobblers make another, lesser-heard vocalization too. It’s called a turkey drum.

If you’ve never heard this extremely low guttural drumming sound before, don’t feel too bad. Many experienced hunters haven’t either. Here’s everything you need to know about it.

What is turkey drumming?

This vocalization is made exclusively by male turkeys and even scientists are uncertain of exactly how they do it. You’d think with birds as common as turkeys we would know all their secrets, but this one is one of those sounds in the woods that we know very little about.

Some hunters hear the word drumming and think it has something to do with a noise made by the wing feathers, but it’s generally believed a big gobbler makes this sound by quickly sucking in air and then forcing it out again quickly. The result is one of the lowest sounds in the woods. It’s so subtle, you may not even realize the gobbler in front of you is doing it if there’s enough background noise!

Most hunters refer to drumming as a gobbler spit-drum because there is also a distinct spitting sound right before the drum. Either way, this is not a long distance sound like a gobble. It is an up close and personal type of vocalization and if you hear it, it likely means the bird is already in bowhunting range.

What does it mean when a turkey is drumming?

Just like the mystery of how the sound is produced, it seems no one really knows exactly why turkeys make this strange sound. The consensus opinion is that it probably has something to do with mating rituals since it is most often heard while longbeards are strutting and trying to impress hens in the springtime. Many hunters hear it when a bird is responding to their decoys.

Although it’s also worth noting that turkeys strut all year-round, so maybe the spit-drum has some other meaning that we humans simply cannot understand? It would sure make things a lot easier for turkey hunters if we had a translator, but sadly, we do not.

Perhaps drumming is simply a way of intimidating rivals or establishing territory. One thing is for sure, it’s a sound you want to listen for each turkey season.

What does a turkey drumming sound like?

Unlike gobbling, yelping or clucks, a gobbler spit-drum sounds like nothing you’d expect from a turkey. It’s an almost alien sound. The spit part of a spit-drum sounds exactly like the name. There’s a brief, loud “Psssst!” sound. This is followed by the drum, which is truly hard to explain to someone who’s never heard it. Phonetically, the closest we can get is, “Whoooooommmmm.”

It almost sounds like the low hum of a surround sound speaker, or someone plucking one string of a bass guitar. It has a reverberation quality to it that you can actually feel if you’re in close enough proximity.

There are plenty of videos on the internet of turkeys drumming, but even these have a hard time capturing the sound of this low turkey call. Most of the time, you need to listen to audio like this with headphones in order to pick out the very distinct hum. The first time I heard it, I didn’t believe it came from a turkey!

Once you hear a turkey drumming for the first time, you too will probably be dumbfounded by this sound. It’s like no other noise these birds make.

Notice in some of these videos that the gobblers almost look like their whole body or feathers are vibrating as they drum. It seems the Tom must really dig down deep to pull this sound out. It almost sounds like the type of noise a big game animal like a deer would make!

What does turkey drumming mean for hunting?

Turkey drumming is a sound you should be actively listening for every time you step in the woods after a big gobbler. Most hunters know the frustration of a turkey that suddenly stops gobbling, but some hunters might not realize that bird is still approaching them. Some Toms quit gobbling and start drumming, but the sound is so subtle, the hunter misses hearing it. Then, when the hunter stands up to leave, the turkeys spook.

Have you ever had a situation like that? If you have, it’s probably likely that turkey was drumming near you and you didn’t realize it.

Other hunters hear a turkey drum in the woods for the first time without knowing what it is, and it takes them completely by surprise. It is a relatively rare sound of the woods. If you’ve ever heard it while out turkey hunting, you’re lucky. Not many hunters have ever heard it.

Most seasoned experts agree on this turkey hunting tip: If you’re out after a big gobbler in the spring or fall turkey season and you suddenly hear this low sound reverberating through your area, get your bow or gun ready and hope your camo is good. Because there’s a Tom in the area and he’ll probably be within shooting range before you know it! In fact, he’ll be very likely to be within archery range.

Ultimately, the science and research behind turkey drumming and how it’s produced is rather incomplete. On top of that, wild turkeys are known to do some of the most unexplainable things we can imagine, so the mystery shrouding this bird and its actions shouldn’t come as much of a surprise.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

NEXT: 10 WAYS TO EXPERIENCE THE BEST OF AMERICA’S BIG GAME HUNTING

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Jack London’s To Build a Fire is one of the best short stories ever written. It illustrates man’s battle with nature as well as how smart dogs are. It also shows the frustration of making fire when you need it the most. In the story, death won because the man failed in starting a fire. That doesn’t have to be the outcome. Here are a few tips on building a fire when things are wet and miserable and you need it most.

Make sure you protect your materials from wind and rain as you work. Create a base to start the fire by clearing the ground. You want the fire in a dry place, so remove all wet leaves and debris and pick a spot with good drainage. A flat rock works well as a work table to get the fire started. Make sure to locate the fire near some kind of shelter for you.

I usually have a space blanket or a small tarp in my pack as well as some paracord because it’s easy to form a roof with to keep rain off the fire. You may need to move or remove it once the fire is going to prevent the sparks from burning a hole, but for now, keep it low enough to protect your work area.

Lacking that, find some natural protection or make it. Build a lean-to frame against a big rock, log or tree with fallen limbs and cover it with spruce bows. That works well in the Northeast where we have lots of spruce. In other areas, improvise; there’s almost always something you can use to keep the rain off you and the fire.

StarterYou’ll need a starter. Often called tinder, it’s something that will light easily and burn hot long enough to ignite small fuel sources. It’s a good idea to bring something with you. I’ve read hundreds of these type of articles where the writer talked about soaking cotton balls in Vaseline or collecting lint from the dryer vent. I’ve tried them all, and to be honest, I didn’t have much luck. There are much better options.

Fire-lighting sticks that are ground wood mixed with wax are hard to beat. I burn wood to heat my house and have to restart the fire often. I used to mess with newspapers and kindling that I split from dry wood. That’s a tedious process of gradually building the fire. Now, I pile up my big chunks of hard wood, insert a fire-starting stick at a junction located low in the pile, light it and walk away. The point is, starters are great and inexpensive.

Another option is solid fuel tablets. They’re easy to find, inexpensive and burn very hot. If you add a folding stove—often sold with these tablets and a metal cup—you have a way to make tea, coffee or food while you work. These cubes and the fire-starting sticks are a bit fragile, so I vacuum seal them with my FoodSaver. At the very least, wrap them in aluminum foil and put them in a zip-lock bag.

I always carry a couple of tea light candles in my backpack. They are short, squat candles in a small aluminum cup. They burn for a long time and are easy to light and slip in under the tinder. They can also provide light to work by.

There are a lot of commercial fire starters on the market, often in individual single-use packaging. Most I’ve tried work pretty well, but a word of caution: Test them at home a few times to be sure. Some burn out pretty fast, and if things are wet, you need something that will burn long enough to dry the edges of your tinder.

If you don’t have any of these materials, don’t panic. There are plenty of fire-starters out there in the woods, they’re just a bit harder to find. Birch bark is an old standby. If you peel deep enough on a standing tree, you should find a dry layer. You may have to use your knife to cut away the dry bark.

Sometimes if you look deep under thick evergreen trees, the branches lowest and closest to the trunk will be dry, as they’re protected from the upper branches. Carefully harvest any small dry twigs to form into a nest to start the fire.

Find some dead branches that are seasoned and start shaving them with your knife. While the outside will be wet, when you whittle away that layer, you should find dry wood at some point. Shave off thin slices of this dry wood until you have a large pile of shavings. You can also form them into a fuzz stick by cutting a shaving so it curls away from the stick, but leaving it attached, then move the knife slightly and make another. If you make a lot of these, you end up with a big fuzzy stick to start the fire.

In locations where you have trees with high pitch content, some types of pines for example, you may find chunks of pitch on the trees. Those work well to start the fire. Shavings from this will light easily and burn hot.

FuelYou need some small dry pieces of fuel to start, and then progressively larger pieces to build and maintain the fire. Once again, look under the protected branches of an evergreen tree. Check on the downwind side of rocks, trees or big formations like cliffs. Often there will be a small zone close to the wind barrier that has some dry material. Collect small twigs, dry grass or anything else that will burn.

Find some smaller sticks—up to an inch or so in diameter—that are dead and seasoned. Break them into manageable sections, about 3 or 4 inches long. Use your knife to split the wood lengthwise. You may need to use a larger piece of wood to drive the blade through with a method called batoning.

A word here to the small knife advocates. I know it’s all so very cool to brag about using a pen knife to process a moose, but this right here is why you should carry a grown-up knife in the woods. Little knives and replaceable-blade knives are fine for gutting rabbits, but you need a large, tough knife to save your life in a situation like this. You don’t need a Rambo-inspired survival knife or bushcraft knife, although it wouldn’t hurt. But you do need a full-size hunting knife with at least a 3-inch blade. A hatchet works even better here, but most hunters don’t carry them as part of their everyday gear.

The inside of the split wood should be dry. Split it fine, with lots of edges to catch fire. You may even want to split off any wood that is water soaked. Work up in branch size as far as you can with your knife and split some bigger pieces. You should have multiple piles of split wood in different sizes. The idea is to start the fire with the small stuff and gradually work up in size until you have a large enough fire to dry the bigger pieces as you add them.

Collect enough wood to make a large, hot fire before beginning. Once the fire is burning well and you have some hot coals, then you can leave it and gather more wood. Gather what you think is enough, then double it. The last thing you want is to run out of wood. Place the wood close to your fire so that it will be drying as it waits its turn in the fire. If you pile the wood high and opposite your position, it can act as a wind barrier and will reflect some of the heat back to you.

Be Prepared with Multiple StartersI never go into the woods without at least two ways to make a fire. I am a big fan of magnesium fire starters, and always have one in my pocket when hunting. I recall one day high in the mountains of Montana where our elk hunting was interrupted by a blizzard. The guide used all his matches and failed to get the fire started. I dug a magnesium starter out of my pack, and soon enough our jackets were steaming and our fingers were warm again. The trick is to make a small pile of shavings using your knife and then hit the metal Ferro rod to create a spark which ignites the shavings. Magnesium burns very hot and will start the tinder easily.

Ferrocerium (Ferro) rods are very popular right now and easy to find. They produce a shower of hot sparks, and when used correctly, that shower is almost continuous and will ignite dry tender easily. One of the best I’ve tried is the Lightning Strike Fire Starter. It comes with several disks that store in the handle, light easily and burn for four minutes. The machined body is designed to guide the striker and to send the sparks directly to the tinder.

Waterproof matches and butane lighters are good as well. With the lighter, you can hold the flame for a long time. Try to find one with a large flame or an adjustable flame.

Tend the fire carefully, as most people (myself included) try to rush things and start piling on too much wood too soon, which can put the fire out. Work slowly, be patient, feed the fire gently and watch it grow.

If you’re really smart, you’ll have a package of noodles or instant soup in your pack and something to heat it in. A metal cup works pretty well. Set it on a rock beside the fire until the water is hot. It’s raining, finding water is easy enough. Finish with a little instant coffee; it does wonders for your outlook on life.