For a long time, bowfin have been held in low opinion in the public eye in terms of being an eating fish. With that said, you might be wondering if you should kill bowfin like you might kill carp and eat them for food. Some people will tell you that you can, but is that advice misguided? Can you eat bowfin fish?

You can eat bowfin fish without it being dangerous, but most people don’t like the flavor because they don’t prepare it right. Incorrectly prepared, it has a soft, mushy texture. If you had to think about the flavor, most compare it to catfish with a meatier flavor.

Experience of Eating Bowfin

While bowfin will thrash and squirm after you have put them at the end of your line and they put up a spirited fight, most people don’t think you should eat bowfin—they’re wrong. They don’t taste as good as walleye, northern pike or sunfish, but you can prepare them so that they will taste better.

The flesh of bowfin is soft and jellylike when incorrectly prepared, and while it might be edible, most people wouldn’t consider it worth eating. When prepared wrong, they’d be right.

Also worth noting, they call the bowfin the mudfish for a reason. It has a strong flavor of mud, which is why many bowfishermen won’t eat them. As one bowfisherman reports, “They’re edible, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat it.”

The other thing worth noting is that bowfin accumulate mercury in their body, and the older the bowfin, the more mercury it will have. In particular, pregnant women must be careful because of how mercury can harm an unborn child. It can harm parts of the child’s body like the lungs, kidneys and nervous system. In addition, it could harm a young child’s nervous system as well. That said, the mercury issue is true of any predatory fish. You can learn more about mercury issues with fish here.

If you did decide to eat bowfin, you should cook it right away to keep the meat from turning mushy. Don’t worry, we’ll show you how to properly prepare it soon so that it tastes good.

What Does Bowfin Taste Like?

How they taste depends on your cooking method. In Louisiana, they have come to be known as cotton fish, which describes the texture of it unless you cook it right. You can combat the texture of bowfin by cutting it like chicken fingers, and that’s the method that I would recommend. You might compare the taste to alligator gar in some ways or catfish as we said above when done right.

You would definitely call bowfin an acquired taste. A lot of people won’t like it, but some people do call it good eating. That said, most people don’t. I’ve had it to where it did taste good, however. Bowfin have small bones that you have to be careful of. As you chop the fillets, direct your efforts away from the stomach region. That is where the bowfin caught its nickname, the mudfish because it tastes like mud.

Bowfin Preparation—9 Tips for Eating It

How you prepare the bowfin will have an impact on the flavor. The preparation stages to create a good flavor are crucial but tricky. You can go wrong in several ways. First, you can’t put water on this fish without impacting the flavor. Avoid it at all costs. If you put water on it and don’t burn it as a result, it will negatively impact the flavor. Second, you can’t put this fish in the fridge and cook it tomorrow morning because the water will impact the meat and make it mushy and difficult to eat.

When you prepare bowfin right, it will have a meatier texture than other fish. As soon as you catch a bowfin, you take it home and start frying it up. Waiting will make it taste bad, which is why many fishermen have had a bad experience with eating bowfin. If you don’t have the time to cook it right away, put it back in the water and let it go. It’s not worth it, otherwise. This isn’t an invasive fish species like the snakehead.

Let’s take the example of someone who tries to put it in the fridge for tomorrow. In one case, the individual had the bowfin meat turn entirely to mush and run through his fingers when he went to cook it. He couldn’t even attempt cooking it. That flavor would’ve been downright scary. We’ll show you how to make it taste right, and you can decide for yourself if you want to try it.

Tip #1 Fillet It While Alive: You want to fillet this fish while alive because it will let the blood run out of it. The blood is responsible for the muddy taste of the fish. Unlike other fish, bowfin can store oxygen in their blood. For those who have a light stomach, this may be too gruesome, but the average fisherman who eats fish and fillets them won’t have a problem.

Tip #2 Don’t Put Water On It: We already talked about not putting water on it, but we can’t emphasize that enough. If you don’t put water on it at all, it will hold its shape without becoming mushy. As soon as you put water on it, however, it turns to mush, making it inedible. Don’t put water of any kind on it. It’s better to avoid it altogether for the best results when cooking.

Tip #3 Take Paper Towels to Pat the Meat: You take a roll of paper towels to pat down the meat and eliminate the blood to get rid of the muddy flavor. Again, we can’t use water on the meat because it will badly impact the texture to the point that you will struggle to eat it. While you can’t clean it with water, you still want it clean. Otherwise, it would be like eating bloody meat. Be sure to clean the scales off the meat as well. The scales on the bowfin are solid, and he has some tough scales. You may want to use an electric fillet knife to clean it in the initial stages.

The Bubba 110V Electric Fillet Knife is a great knife to clean it with because it can get past the scales. It also has a slip-free handle making it ideal for fish, which can be slippery.

Tip #4 Cut It in Half and Make Nuggets: Next, you will cut the two separate bowfin fillets in half to make it into four separate pieces. You don’t need to hit it exactly at the middle part, but you want it close for the portion sizes. Next, you will cut it crossways against the grain like you were cutting fish sticks out of it.

Tip #5 Grilling vs Frying: You can grill bowfin, and it will taste incredible if prepared right. Most people choose to fry it, but you can cook it on the grill as well, and it will taste equally as good. You can also cook it on the Blackstone. With whatever cooking method that you choose, the preparation steps will all carry the same steps.

Tip #6 Use Tinfoil for Grilling: With grilling the fish, we would recommend that you use tinfoil before cutting it up into fish sticks. You will put lemon pepper, Tony’s Original Creole Seasoning and lemon juice (optional). We would only recommend the last one if you like lemon on your fish.

Tip #7 Don’t Let the Bowfin Die: If you let the bowfin die before you can cook it, he won’t taste good because you need to let the blood run out of the fish while he’s alive. You must fillet it while alive for the best flavor. This fish is extremely finicky with how you prepare it, which explains why many people don’t like bowfin. They try it one time, if at all, have a bad experience and never try it again because they don’t know how to prepare it.

I was that guy, and I very hesitantly tried it a second time when a buddy showed me.

Tip #8 Good Fish to Learn How to Fillet: The bowfin offers you an awesome chance to learn how to fillet if new to filleting fish because of how it has a thick meat, and you won’t cut through it easily. In comparison to learning on a catfish, the bowfin is much easier to learn filleting on.

Tip #9 Beware of Making the Meat Cuts Too Thick: You don’t want the meat cuts too thick because of how it won’t cook as well. Make sure that the meat cuts don’t have as much thickness for the best results.

Bowfin Recipe

To begin cooking, we will assume that you have taken the proper steps to prepare it. Remember—good preparation will give you the best flavor in the meat. You want to prepare so that the following steps will make it taste good.

1. Take yellow corn meal and put it in a bowl.
2. Grab a handful of Tony’s Original Creole Seasoning and throw it in the bowl.
3. Add about the same amount of salt.
4. Mix the bowl up well to give it the best seasoning. You want an even mixing throughout the bowl.
5. Don’t wash anything with the fish. Remember, water will hurt the flavor. Take the fillets and put them directly into the bowl for seasoning.
6. Once you have the fillets in the bowl, you wil cover the bowl and start shaking it to put the mixture over the fish fillets.
7. After you have shaken it up, the mixture should take to the meat.
8. Fire up the fryer or the grill and add the fillets into the oil once it becomes hot. You want it at about 275 degrees Fahrenheit.
9. You will cook the meat for 12 minutes, give or take. You will know they’re done when golden brown.

Once you have done that, give the meat a try and see if you like it. Provided you prepared it properly, you may find that you like it. This isn’t the fish for everyone, but some people may say it in a new light.

The biggest problem with bowfin is that many people don’t know how to prepare it, and this meat is very finicky. If not prepared in the way outlined, it won’t taste good.

Try It for Yourself

The only way to learn if bowfin is edible is by trying it for yourself. When I first had bowfin, I didn’t like the flavor because I didn’t prepare it right. A buddy of mine showed me how to prepare it, and it tasted much better after that. Everyone will be different, and if you have the opportunity to try it, I would recommend it. You can’t be harmed by trying it one time.

With that said, the average person who doesn’t prepare it correctly may want to just throw it away or let the fish go back into the water before that point.

Bowfin Caviar: What Does It Taste Like?

While eating bowfin has never been popular, one thing that has picked up in popularity has been to eat bowfin eggs. Bowfin caviar has a jet black color, and they are firm. The taste is mildly tangy and earthy. In particular, bowfin caviar has picked up in popularity in the southern United States like Louisiana where it has the name Cajun Caviar. In South America, they call it Chourpique.

If you’d like to know what bowfin caviar tastes like, you can buy some American bowfin black caviar here. We would call it a less expensive version of sturgeon caviar. Many people have even liked it. They taste small, crunchy, mild and not overly salty. Bowfin black caviar offers you a great introduction to caviar if you never had it before.

For anyone wondering if it is Kosher, they don’t consider this Kosher in the Orthodox Union. Most caviar isn’t Kosher and when you find a Kosher, it is rare.

Bowfin caviar versus sturgeon caviar costs less. However, it doesn’t have the same stellar reputation as sturgeon caviar. In comparison to sturgeon caviar, sturgeon will taste much like the sea, but neither sturgeon nor bowfin caviar should have an overly fishy flavor.

Bowfin and Prevailing Negative Beliefs

You might be wondering to yourself, “Is bowfin dogfish?” Yes, bowfin is the same as dogfish, and if you know anything about dogfish, it has received an unjustified reputation. This native fish has existed in North America for thousands of years. You can learn more about this fascinating living fossil here.

Usually, when you catch a bowfin, you will hear the conversation go something along these lines, “You caught a dogfish? You didn’t put it back, did you? Dogfish kill other fish for fun!”

In truth, bowfin do not kill other fish for fun. They act as scavengers, and they eat some of the other fish that people love, but because they’re a native fish species, they should be left alone. Most likely, bowfin receive a bad reputation because they taste bad when prepared wrong, and they look like the invasive snakehead species. The snakehead brings diseases to native fish populations that can kill them off.

You can tell bowfin apart from snakeheads because snakeheads have one big long and continuous anal fin, while the bowfin’s anal fin is more like a regular fin. Bowfin don’t overpopulate, and they don’t cause any harm to other fish. Not only that, but they’re a native fish species: all the more reason to leave them alone.

Don’t Kill Bowfin if You Don’t Eat Them

People who say to kill bowfin speak from ignorance, rather than truth. Bowfin is like the snakehead in that it has a set of lungs, which allows it to survive on land for an amount of time. In fact, one recorded case of it surviving had the bowfin alive for up to 21 days in a dried up pond. Compare that to a northern pike, they can only live five minutes out of water.

That said, in some states like Indiana, they require you to kill snakeheads if you catch them, but these aren’t considered good eating anyhow. You should check your local laws to ensure that it is legal if you practice catch and release of a snakehead. With bowfishing, that never becomes a problem, however, because of how shooting a fish with a bow will kill the fish.

The problem is that a lot of people don’t know how to distinguish snakeheads from bowfin, and as a result, they kill them both. Bowfin do not have a continuous backfin while a snakehead does. When handling the bowfin, be careful because they have been known to bite without warning. This fish has fearsome teeth like a mouth full of canines, and they have been known to bite through fishing line.

You should only kill a bowfin if you intend to eat it.

Great Fighting Fish

If you have ever had a dogfish thrashing at the end of your line, you know what a fight these fish can put up. In fact, bowfin are one of the few species that do the deathroll like gators. They put up a furious fight. Many anglers even respect the bowfin because of its fighting capabilities. It puts up one of the hardest fights out of all the freshwater fish species. They fight harder than bass.

Check out this short video to see how a bowfin fights:

Conclusion

Provided you have prepared the bowfin correctly before you go to cook it, it will taste fine. In fact, I have known people who call it one of the best-tasting fish species around. That said, you have to prepare it right. In particular, people in the South like Mississippi seem to have the best understanding of how to cook it. If you don’t plan to eat it, you may want to release them back into the water. Some fishermen even believe that bowfin are beneficial to the local waters and the surrounding fish.

Not to mention, they never take over the waters like what carp do. In addition, they’re native, and that especially is why you shouldn’t kill them unless you plan to eat them.

During the 2006 deer season, Kentucky whitetail hunters returned with a bang to post a near-record harvest of 122,233 animals – just shy of being 10,000 more than the previous season. Following the highest harvest on record in 2004, the 2006 season missed the mark of 124,752 by just 2,500 deer. Hunters obviously found a good deal more success in the Kentucky woodlands last season.

Or else it was time to restock the freezer from the big harvest two years before.

Either way, the numbers certainly show that whitetails in the Bluegrass are alive and well – and plentiful.

Over the past five seasons, harvest numbers had climbed steadily from approximately 115,000 in 2002, to 116,000 in 2003, and then the record season of about 124,000 in 2004.

In 2005, the significant drop in the kill back to 112,000 or so didn’t seem to fit the upward trend. Kentucky Fish and Wildlife Department Resources (KDFWR) deer biologists weren’t sure why the decline occurred. After a record season, the chances of topping it the very next year are normally slim. Yet a reduction of more than 10,000 was somewhat unexpected.

Perhaps the hop up from 2005 to 2006 of about 10,000 animals was likewise a little unusual. With the additional harvest data from 2006 now in hand, it’s certain that the herd remains in excellent shape – and that in 2005, hunters just didn’t take as many deer as they did the year before, when the record was set.

That year, the weather was quite warm early in the season. Perhaps deer didn’t move as much as usual. Or maybe other conditions made hunting tougher than it normally is.

Whatever the reason, 2005 was an off year, though the 2006 season was another story altogether. Hunters got on track and took very nearly the minimum 125,000 deer that KDFWR biologists would like to see harvested each season.

It’s interesting to note that of the 20 counties with the highest density of deer per square mile from last year, only one county within that list changed for this year.

Using harvest numbers versus the number of square miles of habitat as an indicator, Logan County entered the top 20 counties for highest density, while Scott County dropped out. All of the remaining counties listed using 2005 season data stayed on the list after 2006 data was calculated.

Of the top 20 Kentucky counties, eight show a density of 10 deer per square mile, while all the other 12 have better than seven deer per square mile. Note that the counties with the best densities aren’t necessarily the counties with the highest harvests. Counties with less habitat can have a lower harvest, yet rank high in deer per square mile – just because in general, fewer deer are taken from smaller counties.

Statewide, the Commonwealth had 37 counties with a harvest of 1,000 animals or more, eight with over 2,000 and two more with more than 3,000 deer taken. Last year, then, more than a third of Kentucky counties produced harvests of 1,000 deer or better.

Likewise, five other counties on the top 20 deer-density list had fewer than 1,000 taken, but scored very well using that parameter as an measure of herd size.

From all indications, the 2007 season should give hunters the same opportunity to be successful, reach that magic mark and help keep the herd in balance and in check.

Here’s the breakdown by wildlife region of the trends in herd growth throughout Kentucky, and where you can expect to find the highest concentrations of deer this fall.

SOUTHEAST REGION

Last season, if you recall, in Kentucky’s toughest region for deer hunting, one lone county topped the 1,000 deer-per-county harvest minimum we use to help determine the better places to find numbers of whitetails.

Last season, three counties came on strong and made the cut – although interestingly, the county wasn’t one of the three in 2005.

Whitley County had a harvest of over 1,000 animals in 2005, but reported a few less in 2006. But a reported 958 whitetails wasn’t too far off the mark. Likewise, Casey and Cumberland counties also nearly broke the 1,000-mark harvest club. Each had more than 970 deer taken last year.

This indicates that these three counties are knocking on the door of having much improved herd numbers, say, over just five years ago – despite having less-than-ideal habitat for deer to thrive in.

In the Southeast Region last season, top performers were Green County at 1,225, Pulaski County at 1,009 and Adair County at 1,001. You’ll note by looking at the map that these counties, as well as the others mentioned, are not in the heart of the Cumberland Plateau. Rather, they lie on the outskirts of the more mountainous Southeast Region.

That’s a key in locating where more whitetails will potentially be in this neck of the woods. Yet in much of the region, things are starting to blossom nicely, given the Southeast’s overall habitat quality.

Last season, the total number of deer taken in the Southeast Region was 17,770, a significant jump from the previous season. Most of the 29-county region saw a jump in individual county harvests last season. Generally, these counties still register as the lowest in density, or deer per square mile, but numbers do appear to keep climbing slowly.

Several counties in the middle of the pack for this region saw jumps of 50 to 100 more deer harvested last year. Last season, more than 20 counties reported harvests of over 400.

Counties in the region that ranked highest in deer density were Cumberland, Taylor and Adair, all of which are carrying about three deer per square mile of habitat. In this region, Cumberland and Taylor counties – though not among the counties with 1,000 or more deer harvested – are still good spots to find more deer this season.

NORTHEAST REGION

In 2006, the Northeast Region reported more than 16,000 deer taken, which was also an increase over the previous season. In terms of harvest, the better counties remained the same as the previous season. Once again, Bracken County is tops in the Northeast in terms of highest deer density, holding 7.66 deer per square mile. But Boyd and Robertson counties are barking at Bracken’s heels, with six deer per square

mile – give or take.

The biggest harvest numbers from last year were posted in Lawrence, with more than 1,500 being taken. In this region, Bracken (with 1,450), Carter (1,427), Lewis (1,303) and Greenup (1,220) all posted high deer densities, at almost four deer per square mile.

Lewis comes in just shy of three deer per square mile, and Carter and Lawrence fall in between the highs and lows out of this bunch.

In this region, the top five counties all saw good increases in harvest over the previous year, a sign of the excellent 2006 season throughout Kentucky. They’ll likely top the 1,000 mark again this season, and perhaps be joined Morgan or Boyd counties, which narrowly missed the list last year. Both counties had takes well over 900 in 2006.

Counties in the Northeast Region continue to be generally managed under a four-deer season limit. In some cases, only two of those four may be taken with a firearm. This restriction cuts down on the number of antlerless deer being taken, given that most hunters are going to hold out to take their one buck with a gun.

In fact, a majority of hunters take only one deer anyway, often taking a doe late in the season when if no buck can be found.

Counties with some of the lowest harvests and densities in the region are Martin, Montgomery, Magoffin, Menifee and Floyd. Although deer are present, hunting these counties will be no doubt tougher. For their best chance of success, hunters in these counties will need to scout for pockets of higher deer numbers.

Generally, counties like these remain under a stricter management approach, trying to maximize herd growth in the shortest amount of time. During some periods of the season, that may mean no hunting of antlerless deer with a firearm, so be sure and check seasonal regulations for all the details.

BLUEGRASS REGION

During the 2006 deer season, both the Bluegrass and Green River regions placed 16 counties apiece in the 1,000-harvest club. But overall, the Bluegrass Region was responsible for adding about 3,000 more animals to the total statewide harvest than was the Green River Region. These two counties are tops in Kentucky for producing large numbers of white-tailed deer. Both contain the best habitat and receive the most hunting pressure, which adds up to higher harvests. Bluegrass Region hunters took more than 36,500 deer in their 31-county area of central and north-central Kentucky.

The Bluegrass Region is where hunters will find the most generally liberal gun-hunting season. A large number of counties open to a 16-day modern gun season, for either sex of deer the entire time.

Most counties also offer unlimited doe harvest – a reflection of how well a county’s herd is doing.

A majority of the counties (16, to be exact) on the top 20 deer-density list are located in the Bluegrass Region. Ironically, that region also carries some counties such as Bourbon, Fayette and Jessamine that lie right at the bottom of the list. They offer extremely limited habitat, compared to other more rural counties in this region.

Outside the top spot, Bluegrass Region counties occupy all the rest of the first 10 slots for highest numbers of deer per square mile. Statistics for Boone, Shelby, Owen and Gallatin counties are right at or above the 12-deer-per-square-mile mark, while Anderson, Campbell, Spencer, Henry and Pendleton all offer nine to 10 deer per square mile.

So, you’ve decided to hunt squirrels with a 22 rimfire rifle, and are now searching for the best scope for 22lr squirrel hunting? Listed below you will find my top 8 scope suggestions for a .22 caliber squirrel rifle.

However, like most anything these days, there is a wide range of opinions online about which rifle scopes are ideal or the best for squirrel hunting. I bet if you asked ten different squirrel hunters to name their favorite rifle scope for squirrel hunting, you’d hear ten different answers.

I’m no different than anyone else in terms of having an opinion, except that I’m an avid squirrel hunter myself. While I enjoy all types of hunting, squirrel hunting with a rimfire rifle is still one of my absolute favorite types of hunting, and I try to go as much as my schedule allows.

Because of my love of squirrel hunting, some of the scope suggestions that I make may not be the same as what you may see online as I’m basing those suggestions on real-life experience.

While the 22LR is still my favorite squirrel hunting round, I also occasionally hunt squirrels with other calibers, including a 17 HMR and a 17 Mach II. As I prefer to hunt with a suppressed rifle, most of my squirrel hunting is done with a suppressed .22LR. While I have suppressed 17 HMR rifles and suppressed 17 Mach 2 rifles, the old fashion .22 is still the quietest to shoot.

When it comes to small game hunting, few species are as popular as the squirrel. Squirrels are plentiful, not as complicated to hunt as some big game species, and make for a challenging quarry due to their size and erratic movements.

Some people would argue that squirrels don’t pose much of a hunting challenge, but I’m not talking about the semi-tame squirrels that inhabit the local city parks. I’m talking about hunting wild squirrels that are wary of any predator. Squirrels have above-average eyesight (for a game species), outstanding hearing, and will flee or hide at the slightest hint of danger.

The venerable 22LR rifle is still the go-to rimfire caliber for squirrel hunting based on the following factors:

• The overall popularity of the 22LR caliber
• The availability of decent 22LR ammunition
• The accuracy potential of the caliber
• The availability of rifles chambered in the 22 LR caliber

Each scope that I’ve suggested as a possible 22 caliber squirrel hunting scope has both pros and cons. Let’s get into why I think each of the rifle scope models below is a good option for a squirrel hunting 22LR rifle, and then I’ll go over what to look for in a 22LR squirrel rifle scope in the buyer’s guide down below.

Leupold FX-3 6X

No list of top recommended squirrel hunting scopes would be complete without mentioning a fixed power scope model, and this Leupold FX-3 scope in 6X power fits the bill.

The big selling point with fixed power scopes is simplicity. There are no power dials to turn, no parallax to adjust, no setting to change. You look through the scope viewfinder, put the crosshairs on the squirrel, and pull the trigger.

Sure, there are less expensive fixed power scopes on the market, but this Leupold scope features something those other models don’t have, and that’s outstanding glass. The optical quality of this scope is exceptional for a fixed power model, which is a significant selling point.

Also, like most fixed power scopes, the FX-3 is lightweight at 13.6 ounces, and compact with a length of 13.2 inches.

Most fixed power scopes also offer a wide Field of View (FOV) compared to their adjustable power counterparts, and the FX-3 is no different, offering a staggering 17.3 feet of viewing area at 100 yards.

But like any scope, the FX-3 has the following pros and cons:

Pros Cons Excellent optical clarity and brightness

Is backed by Leupold’s fantastic warranty program

The glass quality makes it excellent for low light shooting at dusk and dawn

Pricey for a fixed power scope (but worth the cost in my book)

This scope features a non-adjustable focus that is factory set at 150 yards.

The FX-3 series is only available with one reticle option, which is a duplex. Other reticle options would be helpful.

Here are the best sales and deals I could find on the Leupold FX-3 scope:

Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire

If you’re searching for a lightweight and compact variable powered scope for squirrel hunting, then the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire scope might be worth a look. The 2-7 power range offers sufficient magnification to comfortably take shots at squirrels at distances up to 50 yards.

Built on a 1-inch tube and weighing in at 14.3 ounces with a length of 10.7 inches, the Crossfire II Rimfire model is specifically marketed as a compact scope built for the .22LR.

This scope is only available in Vortex’s V-Plex reticle and features a fixed 50-yard parallax setting. While I prefer a parallax or focus that will adjust down below the 50-yard mark, I can make do with a fixed 50-yard parallax in this power range.

I like the V-Plex reticle but would also prefer that Vortex offered this scope in a version with the Deadhold BDC reticle as that would potentially provide the shooter the ability to push shots out past the 50-yard mark using the BDC function.

Here are a few pros and cons for the Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire scope:

Pros Cons Lightweight but very durable

Covered under Vortex’s excellent warranty program

The 2-7 magnification range offers enough magnification for the typical shooting distances seen in squirrel hunting.

A very budget-friendly scope option

Fixed 50-yard parallax (I’d prefer an adjustable parallax that would focus down to 25 yards)

Limited to 1 reticle option, and I’d love to see this scope with the DeadHold BDC reticle.

Here are the best deals I could find on the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7 scopes:

BSA Sweet 22 3-9×40

If you’re in the market for a 22LR scope that offers integrated BDC (Bullet Drop Compensator) functionality, then the BSA Sweet 22 in a 3-9×40 configuration might be worth checking out. All the BSA Sweet 22 scope models feature integrated BDC functionality for the 22LR based on the bullet weight.

This scope comes with a multi-grain turret that works with the more popular 22LR bullet weights. Once you sight the scope in using the turret settings that match your bullet weight, you can use the BDC function to shoot out to a maximum distance of 200 yards. Now, I’m not advocating that you try a shot at that distance on a squirrel, but this scope can undoubtedly get you shooting at squirrels accurately out past 75 yards or so.

BSA is typically known as offering entry-level or budget-friendly scopes, so this Sweet 22 model won’t hammer your wallet. Built with multicoated optics, the optical quality is about what you would expect of a rifle scope in this price range.

One of the features that I like about this scope is the side focus that will focus down to 8 yards, which is a beneficial feature in the squirrel woods.

However, the BSA Sweet 22 scope isn’t perfect so here are the things I like and don’t like:

Pros Cons Built-in BDC for the most popular 22LR bullet weights

Side focus that focuses down to 8 yards

An affordable option for the squirrel woods

The optical quality is average at best

Comes with a minimal warranty

Listed below are the best deals and specials I could find on this BSA scope:

Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire 3-9×40

If the Leupold FX-3 fixed power scope I mentioned above is too pricey for your wallet, but you still are interested in buying a Leupold, then have a look at the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire model. This scope is a 3-9×40 scope that is made specifically for a 22LR rimfire rifle.

The VX-Freedom series of scopes feature bright and clear glass, along with the durability that is expected of a Leupold.

With a weight of 12.5 ounces and a length of 12.3 inches, the VX-Freedom Rimfire scope is an ideal option for squirrel hunting with a 22 rifle. This scope is equipped with a 60-yard fixed parallax, coupled with Leupold’s Rimfire MOA reticle.

I’m also a fan of the Leupold VX Freedom EFR 3-9×40 scope for squirrel hunting, but it costs twice as much as the Rimfire version. The EFR model features an adjustable focus that will go down to 10 yards, but I’m not sure that feature is worth a 2X price tag.

Here are a few pros and cons with the VX Freedom 3-9×40 Rimfire scope:

Pros Cons Excellent optical quality for a scope in this price range

Dedicated Rimfire reticle with built-in holdover points

Well-built and covered by the Leupold warranty

Fixed 60-yard parallax (I’d prefer an adjustable parallax that will at least focus under 50 yards).

Features an eye relief that is under the 3″ mark, making it a dedicated rimfire scope only.

While the Rimfire MOA reticle features holdover marks, the shooter has to invest the time to learn the holdover points on his or her own.

Listed below are the best prices and deals I could find on the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire 3-9×40 scope:

Bushnell Banner Rimfire 4-12×40 Riflescope

The Banner series of rifle scopes from Bushnell was is explicitly built for rimfire shooters and offers excellent value in terms of price and performance. The 4-12×40 Banner Rimfire model features fully coated lenses for clarity and brightness, blended into a compact optic.

Built on a 1-inch tube, the Banner Rimfire also features an adjustable objective that that will adjust down to 10 yards. The adjustable objective, paired with Bushnell’s Multi-X crosshair reticle, makes this scope ideal for hunting bushy tails.

Like most Bushnell scopes, the Banner Rimfire model offers an excellent Field of View of 29 feet at 4X power and 11.5 feet on 12X power.

Here are a few pros and cons associated with this scope model:

Pros Cons The adjustable objective will focus down to 10 yards, which is very handy when a squirrel pops up on the tree beside you.

This scope offers an excellent performance to cost ratio as its budget-friendly

The optical quality is about what you would expect for a scope in this price range.

While the AO parallax is a plus, I wish Bushnell would offer this model with side focus.

This scope is more of a dedicated rimfire scope as it’s not really built to withstand the long-term recoil of a centerfire rifle.

Here are a few locations I found some good prices on this Bushell Banner Rimfire scope:

Sightron SIH 4-12X40

I’ve always considered the Sightron line of rifle scopes to be a sleeper brand in the scope industry as they don’t do a ton of marketing and are not usually sold in big box outdoor brands (think Cabela’s, Bass Pro, etc.). As such, I’m betting that you won’t see Sightron mentioned very much in any other lists of recommended squirrel hunting scopes.

The Sightron S1H Field and Target line of scopes is a lower-tiered series within the Sightron line that is made for target and hunting uses. The S1H 4-12×40 scope is built on a 1-inch tube and features an adjustable objective that will focus down to 8 yards.

The scope offers fully multicoated lenses, is shockproof and waterproof. Sightron purges this model with Nitrogen to eliminate any internal fogging or condensation.

My two favorite S1H 4-12×40 models are the duplex reticle version and the mil-dot reticle version. While most squirrel hunters opt for the duplex reticle, I prefer the mil-dot reticle because I can use it as a duplex or use the mil-dots as holder over points for longer range shots.

Pros Cons This series is available in 4 different reticles, which means there is a reticle for almost every squirrel hunter.

This model holds zero exceptionally well even with heavy use.

The 4-12 power range is ideal for squirrel hunting in early or late season conditions.

Weighing in at nearly 18 ounces, this scope is a bit heavy for a 4-12.

It comes with the cheapest flip-up lens covers I’ve ever seen.

Here’s a list of the best deals and specials I found for the Sightron S1H 4-12×40 scope models:

Vortex Crossfire II 4-12×40

The Crossfire II series of scopes is one of Vortex’s workhorse series that is built for performance on an entry-level budget. The Crossfire II scopes come in a variety of configurations, but the 4-12×40 is one of my favorites for a 22LR squirrel rifle.

Like all the Crossfire II scope models, the 4-12×40 is equipped with multicoated lenses to enhance the light transmission and fast-focus eyepiece.

This scope is built on a 1-inch tube and features an adjustable objective that will focus down to 10 yards. In addition to the 40mm version of this scope, Vortex also offers a 4-12×50 model as well.

The 4-12×40 model is available in two reticle configurations: the popular DeadHold BDC reticle, and the V-Plex reticle. Both work just fine for squirrel hunting, although I’m partial to the Deadhold BDC reticle as I like its versatility. The Deadhold BDC can be configured to work with most any .22LR round and can potentially extend your shooting distances on squirrels.

No scope is perfect so here are some pros and cons of the Crossfire II 4-12×40:

Pros Cons This scope is built like a tank for durability

The AO will focus down to 10 yards

The BDC reticle can be configured to work with a .22LR.

Weighing nearly 20 ounces, this scope is a bit on the heavy side for a 4-12.

The V-Plex reticle option can be hard to find.

If you’re shipping for a Vortex Crossfire II 4-12×40, then here are a few decent deals I located:

Bushnell Engage 3-12×42

The Engage series is a mid-range line of scopes made by Bushnell. While the Engage is offered in a variety of different power magnifications, the 3-12×42 model is an ideal choice for squirrel hunting with a rimfire.

The Engage scopes come with multicoated lenses for optimum light transmission and clarity, coupled with Bushnell’s patented EXO Barrier lens coating for advanced protection.

This model features side focus with the ability to focus down to 10 yards. Unlike most of the other scopes on this list, the Engage is built on a larger 30mm tube so that it will require 30mm scope rings.

This scope is only available with Bushnell’s Deploy MOA reticle, which works fine for squirrels, but might be a bit confusing at first if you are accustomed to a standard duplex reticle.

Here are a few other pros and cons of this Engage scope:

Pros Cons Side focus down to 10 yards

Good quality glass for the money

While I like 30mm scopes, they add weight as this model weighs in at nearly 20 ounces.

This scope is limited to only one reticle choice. I wish Bushnell would add a few more reticle options to the Engage scope line.

Here’s a list of the best deals and offers I could find for the Bushnell Engage 3-12×42 scope:

Honorable Mentions

Nikon Prostaff EFR Target Rimfire 3-9×40

The Nikon Prostaff EFR Target Rimfire was designed for rimfire rifles, so it was an ideal option for a squirrel rifle.

The EFR acronym stood for Extended Focus Range and was Nikon’s designation for any scope that would focus down below the standard 50-yard mark. While most Nikon scopes have a default parallax setting of 50 yards, the EFR model featured an adjustable objective that would focus all the down to 10 yards.

The EFR Target Rimfire became a very popular scope for squirrel hunters thanks to its adjustable parallax, excellent optics, and NikoPlex reticle.

This scope is listed as an honorable mention as Nikon is out of the rifle business, and the EFR Target Rimfire scope was discontinued.

This model is tough to find these days with one showing up here and there online.

Here are the only Nikon EFR 3-9X40 models I was able to locate:

Bushnell Legend Ultra HD Rifle Scope 4.5-14x 44mm

This scope was part of the Legend Ultra HD series from Bushnell and was an absolute sleeper of a scope. While it was available in a few different configurations, my favorite was the 4-14×44 with either a duplex reticle or mil-dots (which is my personal favorite).

This scope featured Bushnell’s ED Prime lenses, which were amazingly clear and bright for a scope in this price range. This scope also featured a side focus that would focus down to 10 yards and top-notch adjustments that could withstand a beating.

I liked this scope so much that I ended up buying more than one, and still have a few on different squirrel rifle set-ups.

Unfortunately, Bushnell opted to discontinue the entire Legend Ultra HD line, which is why this model is listed as an honorable mention.

This scope is very tough to find these days as they became even more popular after they were phased out.

Here are the only ones I was currently able to locate for sale:

Buyer’s Guide for 22LR Squirrel Hunting Scopes

Here is a guide that offers some advice about what to look for when choosing a scope for a 22LR squirrel hunting rifle. Keep in mind that these are just suggestions, and your best bet is to tailor these recommendations to your own needs.

The Best Scope Magnification for Squirrel Hunting

When you start researching the best scope power range for squirrel hunting, or the ideal scope magnification for squirrel hunting, you’re going to see a wide variety of suggestions and recommendations. Those suggestions will most likely include some fixed power scopes, some 2-7 scopes, quite a few 3-9 scopes, and some power ranges that are in the 4-12 to 4-16 power range.

The best answer is this one: The ideal scope magnification for squirrel hunting is the one that best suits the type of squirrel hunting that you do, and the scope power range that is most effective for you. The truth is, there is no one-size-fits scope magnification range that works equally well for every squirrel hunter out there.

The most common power range suggested for squirrel hunting is most definitely a 3-9 power for two reasons:

• The 3-9 power range is the most common and most popular power range that is currently on the market.
• For many squirrel hunters, the 3-9 power range of magnification offers sufficient magnification to meet “most” squirrel hunting needs

Does that mean that a 3-9 scope is the best bet for you? That’s hard to answer without knowing more details about the type of squirrel hunting you do, what type of shots you usually take, etc.

Let’s take me, for example. I prefer to still hunt for squirrels by picking a location and sitting for long periods. With that approach, I don’t tend to move all that much and am comfortable taking shots at distances over 50 yards. I also have terrible vision, with my dominant eye being much weaker than my non-shooting eye. So, when I close my right eye to shoot through a scope, my vision goes from a corrected 20/20, down to about 20/80 in my shooting eye.

Couple the lousy vision with my desire to try for only headshots to preserve the meat, and you’ve got the ideal recipe for a whole bunch of misses on my part. For those two reasons, I’ve always gravitated towards higher-powered scopes for my squirrel rifles. As I’ve gotten older, I’ve moved away from all 3-9 rifle scopes because they just don’t enough power for my not-so-great vision.

I’m perfectly comfortably shooting a 4-14 or higher power scope on a 22LR squirrel rifle as I’m shooting for a head at distances out to about 75 yards.

Obviously, my situation is unique, but that story illustrates my point that you should use whatever power scope meets your needs, your budget, and is most effective for you.

Parallax or Side Focus for a Squirrel Hunting Scope

To me, scope parallax is one of the most misunderstood and misused terms in the rifle scope industry. The simplest way to define scope parallax is when the target and the reticle are on different planes within the scope. This situation results in the scope reticle appearing to move around the target.

Parallax also plays a role in focusing the target within the scope based on the distance to the target.

Most rifle scopes have one of two parallax or focusing configurations:

• A fixed parallax that is non-adjustable and factory set for a specific distance. With most fixed parallax scopes, the factory preset distance is 100 yards.
• An adjustable parallax scope where the parallax can be adjusted using either the objective (which is commonly called an adjustable objective) or via a side focus configuration.

With adjustable parallax scopes, the parallax settings have a minimum distance in yards, and then most also have a maximum parallax distance of infinity. So, when you see a scope with an adjustable objective that goes from 25 yards to infinity, this means the parallax on that scope will only focus down to a maximum of 25 yards but will focus up to infinity.

So, what does all this talk of parallax or side focus have to do with a squirrel hunting scope?

Good question, and here’s why this is relevant to squirrel hunting:

Compared to big game hunting, most shots taken at squirrels are relatively short range, with the average distance being 25 yards to 45 yards. If you are using a scope with a parallax that bottoms out at 50 yards, and you’re trying to shoot a squirrel at 25 yards, the image of the squirrel in the scope won’t be crisp and clear. It will most likely be a little bit blurry and out of focus. And the higher the magnification on the scope, the blurrier that the target will become.

That’s why I prefer to use a scope with a focus/parallax that will adjust down to at least 25 yards or so. That way, the target squirrel in the scope is clear and identifiable.

Now, does that mean that you shouldn’t buy a scope for squirrel hunting that won’t parallax down past 50 yards?

Not necessarily as the parallax focus distance is only really a problem at higher magnification. So, if you had a 2-7 power scope with a fixed 50-yard parallax, you would barely notice the slightly out-of-focus squirrel in the crosshairs as the distortion would be minimal. However, if you’re trying to shoot that same 25-yard squirrel with a 4-14 powered scope with a fixed 50-yard parallax powered up to 14X, then you’ll notice the image distortion.

Sighting in a .22 for Squirrel Hunting

The process for sighting in a 22 for squirrel hunting is about the same as sighting in any rifle or shotgun. The only real difference is the sight-in distance, and opinions vary on the “ideal” distance to sight in a .22 for squirrel hunting. Some say 35 yards is the best distance, while others suggest 40 yards, and some say 50 yards is the perfect sight-in distance for a .22LR.

I prefer to use 50 yards as my sight-in distance on a .22 rifle for squirrel hunting. I like that sight-in distance as I know that I’m dead on at 50, about ½ an inch low between 49 and 35 yards, and 1 inch or so low at 34 to 20 yards. For anything under 20 yards, I need to hold about an inch high. Again, I’m not saying that’s the best sight-in distance for you; it is just what I find works best for me.

If you find that the bulk of your shots at squirrels occurs at a shorter distance, like 25 yards, then maybe it makes sense to sight your 22 rifle in for maybe 35 yards versus 50 yards.

What’s the Best rimfire scope for squirrel hunting?

I am asked this question at my day job reasonably often, but it’s a hard question to answer because, while most people use the word “rimfire” to mean a .22, the rimfire category includes several other calibers besides the .22.

Technically, a rimfire cartridge includes the following calibers:

• .22 LR
• 17 HMR
• 17 HM2
• 17 PMC
• 22 TCM
• 5mm
• 17 WSM

Some of those calibers, like the 17 HMR and 17 WSM, offer entirely different ballistics compared to the .22 LR and will shoot much farther and flatter. Due to the improved ballistic performance of those calibers, they are better served with a higher magnification scope versus what is suggested above for the .22.

While I also hunt squirrels with a 17 HMR and 17 HM2, those rifles are scoped with a minimum power magnification of 4-20 or up.

So, it’s tough to suggest a single best scope model for a rimfire caliber as those calibers feature a wide range of ballistic performance.

FAQS

Here are some frequently asked questions that I see and hear ay my day job regarding the best scope for squirrel hunting:

What’s the best Leupold scope for squirrel hunting?

I like many different Leupold scopes for squirrel hunting, but, for a .22LR, take a look at the Leupold scopes I suggested above.

The one suggestion that I’ll make about Leupold scopes when it comes to squirrel hunting is looking for a Leupold model with either a fixed focus around the 50-yard mark or one of their EFR models that will focus down to 25 yards or so.

Do I need an illuminated scope for squirrel hunting?

An illuminated scope is not mandatory for squirrel hunting, but it can be helpful in low light hunting situations. And, if you think about when squirrels are most active, it’s first light and near dusk, which are both low light scenarios.

I have both illuminated and non-illuminated scopes on squirrel rifles and regularly hunt with both. While I like the illuminated reticle option, most of the rifle scopes on my squirrel hunting rifles are non-illuminated.

What about a scope vs red dot for squirrel hunting?

For starters, if you’re thinking about using a red dot on your 22 rifle for squirrel hunting, I’d strongly suggest that you check your state and local hunting rules and regulations as not every state will allow the use a red dot for hunting purposes.

I tried hunting squirrels with a red dot scope mounted on a 22 rifle once and just did not care for it. The red dot did not offer enough magnification for my needs and made precise shots nearly impossible at any distance over 25 yards.

If you’re choosing between a red dot or a scope for squirrel hunting, I would recommend a rifle scope as a much better option.

What about a fixed power scope for squirrel hunting?

When I first started squirrel hunting as a teenager, I used a fixed power scope, and have fond memories of those squirrel hunting experiences.

Fixed power scopes make excellent scope options for squirrel hunting, as they are easy to operate, easy to understand, and very effective.

If you prefer a fixed power scope over an adjustable scope for your squirrel rifle, I encourage you to take that path. There are several well-made fixed four power or fixed six power scopes on the market that are excellent options for a 22LR squirrel hunting rifle. One of my favorites is the six power Leupold scope that I mentioned above.

As I come across other questions that are related to squirrel hunting rifle scopes, I’ll try to keep this page updated.

Hunting’s post-kill rituals aren’t spontaneous gestures like high-fives or war-whoops, but perhaps that’s where they began.

Maybe those instinctive, visceral celebrations evolved as ancient hunters and their tribes considered what they gained at the animal’s expense. From there, things got complicated as time and culture took hunters’ thoughts and hunting’s utilitarian tasks, and shaped them into formal tributes to the animal’s life and the meat it provided.

That process created ceremonies—large and small, personal and communal—to instill and sustain ancient reverence. Maybe that’s why post-kill hollering, laughing and chest-thumping can appear disrespectful to others. Ignoring post-kill tributes—even those silent and subtle—suggests we’ve forgotten the old ways, never took time to learn them, or never knew of them in the first place.

Either way, today’s post-kill rituals are rooted in history and traditions, and mostly of European or Native American origins. The Germans, for instance, prayed to St. Hubert, the patron saint of hunters. They built forest chapels on their hunting lands and made worship mandatory. American Indians, meanwhile, have long dropped pinches of tobacco onto the animal’s body to offer respect, believing that tobacco—crumbled or smoked—connects them to the spirit world.

Many hunters still practice post-kill rituals, borrowing from history, other cultures and their own imaginations to honor the fact that life requires death, which warrants respect. With that in mind, here are some post-kill rituals you might recognize.

Blooding: This common ritual varies widely, but usually involves a parent or the camp’s senior member taking blood from a hunter’s first kill and applying it to his or her face. Some elders carefully streak the hunter’s cheeks with a blooded finger, while others hastily smear blood all over the hunter’s face.

This rite traces back to the 700s A.D. as a tribute to St. Hubert. To receive the patron saint’s blessing for the kill, the group placed a knife in the animal’s fatal wound to coat it in blood. One of them then used the knife to gently apply red crucifixes on the hunter’s forehead and both cheeks. The hunter then accepted everyone’s congratulations.

Joe Hamilton, director of development for the Quality Deer Management Association, recalls a similar ritual from his younger days. In this case, an older hunter explained the symbolism while applying blood: The streak down the first-timer’s nose honored the quarry’s sense of smell; a second streak over one eye honored the quarry’s sense of sight; a final streak over the other eye honored the hunter’s accomplishment. “They honored the hunter for being quiet, patient and stealthy to overcome the animal’s natural defenses,” Hamilton explains.

Horn Blowing: Houndsmen hunting deer often blew horns to communicate with the dogs and each other. To make the sounds, they used everything from a bull’s actual horn sheath, to horns or bugles made of brass or pewter. Today many huntmasters in Europe still blow horns to communicate to their charges. Some American hunters do, too. Regardless where it’s blown, the sound of a horn reverberating through a hardwoods swamp or a deep forest can make the hair on hunters’ arms stand up.

The Last Bite: The “letzebissen” or “letzer bissen” is practiced in Austria, Holland and Germany, and by some Americans. Valerius Geist, 78, of British Columbia, is a retired zoology professor and hunting authority who was raised in Germany and Austria. Geist says Germans break (never cut) a twig from one of five tree species in descending preference: oak, pine, spruce, fir and alder. With the animal placed on its right side, they pull the broken twig through its mouth from one side to the other and leave it clamped between its jaws.

Eating Raw Liver: Al Hofacker, founding editor of Deer & Deer Hunting magazine, recalls hunters in 1960s-era deer camps in northeastern Wisconsin that brought the liver of their first kill back to camp each year. “At night they’d slice small pieces of the raw liver and each eat a piece,” he says.

Slitting the Throat: Hofacker also recalls a once-routine practice he could never explain. “Decades ago it was common to slit the deer’s throat before field-dressing it,” he says. “It never made sense because the heart has stopped beating, but they thought they were ‘bleeding it out.’ That’s pretty much gone now.”

Meat, Skulls, Shoulder Mounts: Long after the kill, hunters continue honoring their quarry by cherishing and consuming its meat, and displaying its skull or full-shoulder taxidermy mount. Such honors, however, are easily tarnished. “You should never desecrate head mounts by placing cigarettes in the mouths, sunglasses over the eyes, or hats or Santa Claus caps on their heads,” Geist says. “You also don’t sit on the animal’s body after you’ve killed it. That dishonors the creature.”

This is obviously an incomplete list, but perhaps it reminds us that honoring our quarry is largely a matter of the heart. And that, Geist says, should focus on the kill itself.

“Rituals aren’t a bad idea; I see their value,” Geist says. “But you show the utmost respect by concentrating on killing the animal quickly. Hunters’ conduct toward wildlife and nature should be consistent with their conduct toward other humans.”

In this Penn Conflict II Spinning Reel Review, we’re presenting one of the lightest weight spinning reels ever to hit the market from Penn.

This reel was released in 2017, and it is available in the 1000-5000 range. The Conflict II is ideal for lightweight anglers looking for a high performing freeshwater reel. This is the lightest reel in the Penn family, and when you stack it up against some of the previous reels from Penn, there is no comparison.

If you enjoyed the Conflict spinning reels before, you’d love this one because of it’s lightweight and durable design. The reel looks great, and it features a super smooth and strong HT-100 drag system. Along with that, they pair in a wide assortment of other features that are unique to this reel, and we’re going to dish them out for you.

The Bottom Line

• A solid choice in the medium priced spinning reel category
• Proven HT-100 carbon fiber drag system
• Solid reel that is not to heavy
• Very durable anodized body

The Penn Conflict II is a solid choice and is available HERE.

The Penn Conflict II has a smooth HT-100 carbon fiber drag system that has been proven in many other Penn models such as the famous Penn Battle II and the much more expensive Penn Clash

The Conflict II is the lightest reel from Penn to this day, and there are a few different reasons for that.

First, you have the RR30 Rigid Resin body and rotor that make up a majority of the weight. This material is incredibly lightweight and durable. It’s even 20% lighter than the original Conflict. If you felt that the first-generation was a little bulky or too heavy, you’ll love the weight and feel of the newer Penn Conflict II.

If we take you inside the reel, you’ll find Penn’s CNC gears using a 7+1 stainless steel ball-bearing system with an aluminum pinion and main gear. These reels offer the ultimate in lightweight inshore fishing while still providing resistance to saltwater.

You also get the Conflict Superline Spool which takes mono backing out of the equation due to a rubber gasket that keeps the line from slipping on the spool. In many reels you will need to use mono to go from the spool to the braid line as braid has a tendency to slip on the spool, this solves this problem.

Something else that really separates the Conflict II from the original model and most other reels for that matter is the lightweight braid Leveline System. The reel provides a slow oscillation system which ensures that your line lays evenly on the spool.

This feature also prevents friction on the line, and the result is one of the longest casting spinning reels on the market today. With this feature, they recommend using a lightweight braided line only for the Conflict II.

Features

Rigid Resin RR30 Techno-balanced rotor – Penn is able to dramatically reduce the weight of this reel compared to the original Conflict primarily due to the design of the body. Using their RR30 Rigid Resin, they lower the overall weight of the reel by 20% which makes this the lightest Penn reel on the market today. Along with weight reduction, the Rigid Resin is also durable and long-lasting.

CNC Gear Technology – They continue to impress with their CNC crafted aluminum pinion and main gear found on the 1000-4000 sizes. The Penn Conflict II 5000 features a brass pinion and aluminum CNC machined main gears.

These are durable and paired alongside high-quality stainless steel ball bearings. Put it all together, and you have a great inshore reel worthy of large trout, redfish, and even sea bass.

HT-100 carbon fiber drag washers – The carbon fiber drag system is the epitome of smooth even when battling larger fish. Having the HT-100 Versa drag washers in the spool allows Penn to use both sides of each washer providing the angler with higher max drags, improved range, and smoother start-ups when stacked up against the original Penn. These washers receive a coating of Penns proprietary grease for longevity.

Heavy-duty aluminum bail wire – The thick aluminum bail wire is durable and long-lasting. It perfectly rounds out an already strong reel.

Superline spool – Another feature that is unique to the Conflict II is the Superline Spool. This design eliminates the need for backing because of the rubber gasket that keeps your line from slipping on the spool. The end result is improved line capacity and a smooth retrieval and cast.

Leveline system – In addition to the superline spool, you also get the Leveline system. The feature differs from the original model by providing anglers with a slower oscillation to improve the way your line lays on the spool. The line creates less friction this way and provides you with a longer cast. Penn states that the Conflict II is the longest casting spinning reel on the market.

Features at a Glance

• Rigid Resin RR30 Techno-balanced rotor
• CNC Gear Technology
• HT-100 carbon fiber drag washers
• Heavy-duty aluminum bail wire
• Superline spool
• Line capacity rings

The Penn Conflict II comes in six different sizes starting with the 1000 series and working it’s way up to a 5000 series. They don’t have a 6000 or anything higher, and that is why they primarily recommend this reel for inshore fishing only.

For the 1000 model, you get a max drag of 9 pounds and a gear ratio of 5.2:1. The reel weighs in at a measly 6.3 ounces, and it has a braided cap of 160/6, 130/8, and 110/10. You’d want to pair this reel with an ultralight rod like the St. Croix Trout Freshwater spinning rod or the St. Croix Mojo Inshore for inshore fishing.

Next, we have a 2000 model which has a max drag of 10 pounds, and it weighs in around 7.4 ounces. You’ll get a braided cap of 210/8, 180/10, and 165/15. For this reel, it comes with a gear ratio of 6.2:1. You’ll still want to pair this reel up with a lightweight, fast action rod to give you the most pop and the greatest level of sensitivity.

For the 2500 model, you have a max drag of 12 pounds, a gear ratio of 6.2:1, and a reel that weighs just below 8 ounces at 7.9. With a 10 pound braid, you’ll get 240 yards of line, and I’ve had much success pairing this reel with the St. Croix Mojo Inshore.

Something incredibly impressive and it speaks volumes for this reel is stacking the previous Conflict up against the Conflict II. The same 2500 model that offers the same max drag and line capacity weighs two ounces more. The Conflict I 2500 weighs 9.8 ounces. As you get up in the models into the 4000 range, the weight of the reel becomes significant but not with the Conflict II.

Even at the 4000 mark for the Conflict II the reel still weighs less than the Conflict 2500. When they say that they took steps to reduce the weight of their premium reels, they were not kidding.

For those of you who want all the details I have provided the chart below.

ModelMono Cap (yds/lb)Braid Cap (yds/lb)BearingsMax Drag (lbs)Gear RatioLine Retrieve Weight (oz) CFTII1000275/2 135/4 105/6160/6 130/8 110/10895.2:1226.3 CFTII2000240/4 180/6 125/8210/8 180/10 165/158106.2:1317.4 CFTII2500255/6 175/8 140/10240/10 220/15 160/208126.2:1337.9 CFTII3000200/8 165/10 120/12240/15 180/20 130/308156.2:1359.1 CFTII4000270/8 220/10 165/12360/15 260/20 185/308156.2:1379.5 CFTII5000225/12 200/15 135/20420/20 300/30 240/408205.6:13814.4

Over the years, I’ve leaned more and more about my lighter tackle gear. I’ve had a lot of success with reels like the Shimano NASCI 1000 and the Daiwa Fuego LT. I was incredibly excited when I saw that Penn was going to design a reel to replicate the original but at a fraction of the weight.

When I think of Penn reels I think “heavy” and now there is a model that I do not have to feel that way about.

For inshore fishing, I prefer to fish for trout, redfish and flounder. I’m somewhat young, but even I have fond memories of fishing trips with rods and reels that looked like my dad dug them out of a cave man’s chest. With the incredible growth in technology, manufacturers are able to make reels much lighter while actually making them stronger as well.

The Penn Conflict II is a reel that maximizes the amount of strength and durability it provides. It doesn’t compromise your comfort and enjoyment with a big bulky and uncomfortable reel that feels like you have been fishing it all day even though you just got on the water.

I favor a 10 to 15 pound braided Berkley Fireline with whatever live bait I can get my hands on. It might be more of a pain, but it pays off in the long run for me: the trout and redfish hammer finger mullet and eels like crazy around the waterways of South Carolina.

Pros

• 20% lighter than the previous Conflict
• One of the bestter inshore reels on the market
• Leveline system maximizes casting distance
• Proven HT-100 drag system

Cons

• Bland appearance; nothing flashy
• Not the lightest in its class for the price

Alternatives

If you’re still looking for some different options, we’ve got them. Sticking with Penn, we’ll look at the Penn Battle II. This reel is going to save you some money, but you’re going to pay for it in the weight of the reel. Each reel model weighs about two ounces more with the Penn Battle II. Read the complete Penn Battle II Review HERE.

Next, we have the Penn Clash. If we were comparing the Clash with the original Penn Conflict, we’d have to give it to the Clash. The whole theme of this review is weight, and even though the Penn Clash is more expensive than the Conflict II, it still weighs more by about an ounce.

With the Clash, you might see a slight improvement in smoothness during the retrieval due to an extra bearing, and you also get the leveline oscillation system and CNC gear technology. Read the complete Penn Clash Review HERE.

If you’re looking to go more affordable with your reel, you could opt for the Daiwa Fuego LT. You can get this reel for under $100, and the weight is even less that the Conlict II. The Daiwa Fuego LT is smooth and offers plenty of corrosion resistance and waterproofing features such as the Mag sealing making it one of our favorite reels. Read the full Daiwa Fuego LT review HERE.

Rolling along we’re going to hit you with a reel that is as light as the Penn Conflict II, and it’s more affordable. So what’s the catch? It’s an Okuma. The Okuma Helios SX is a good quality lightweight reel with a carbon fiber drag, eight corrosion-resistant bearings, and a lightweight carbon frame.

For the price, it’s hard to go wrong, but it doesn’t have the durability and presence of a Penn reel. For the complete Okuma Helios SX, review CLICK HERE.

The last comparison we have is the Shimano Stradic FK. This spinning reel is one of the best inshore reels priced below $200, and it competes with the Penn Conflict II in the weight department. It cost a little more than the Penn Conflict II but for you Shimano fan biys and fan girls its a great reel. For the complete Shimano Stradic FK, review CLICK HERE.

In Conclusion

Overall, the Penn Conflict II is a serious step up from the previous reel. They’ve taken all of their best models and combined it into one to make this reel. While doing that they’ve also incorporated a lot of new technology and features that make this one of the best inshore spinning reels available on the market today in this medium price point.

Food plots require planning, design and management to be successful. Before investing time, labor and money, you should determine the goals of your food plot. If you enjoy growing things, working with the land and nature, and seeing wildlife thrive, you may generally find installing food plots rewarding. If you install food plots as a main goal to grow and harvest trophy animals, you may soon become frustrated. Food plots alone do not create large antlered, trophy sized white-tailed deer. Genetics and the age structure of bucks in a herd influence antler size more than additional food. Food plots should not be used as a substitute for natural wildlife foods. Food plots should only be a small part of a larger management plan for wildlife in your area.

Expectations for Your Food Plot

A balanced management strategy is important to create a sustainable food plot. You should begin with realistic expectations for your food plot based on your land resources and local wildlife populations. Once those expectations are determined, you can begin planning the number of plots, size of the plot, plot location, and species of plants. While many articles and books contain information about simply sizing food plots based on desired wildlife, there are additional variables that should be considered as you design a food plot for your land. Consider the following questions before installing a food plot:

1. Are deer the only species of wildlife you hope to attract?
2. What is the population of those wildlife species already in the area or per square mile?
3. Do you expect to harvest wildlife from hunting or just use the food plots to attract wildlife for viewing?
4. Do you plan to use the food plot to increase the variety of food for area wildlife, or is there already naturally occurring food or agricultural crops available on your property and surrounding areas?
5. Do you need additional equipment to prepare, install and maintain the food plot you plan to establish?
6. How long do you expect to maintain the plot(s)?
7. How much of a time commitment are you willing to make for future years to keep the plot(s) functional?
8. How much money are you willing to spend now and in the future to keep the plot(s) productive?
9. Would your food plots become a conflict if your neighbors are trying to eradicate the wildlife you are trying to attract?

Answering these questions will determine the feasibility of attracting the desired wildlife in your area and your ability to invest time, money and effort in creating and managing the food plot. To help you with this process, this fact sheet is the first of three that serves as a guide for creating food plots for wildlife. This fact sheet covers the design, layout and habitat requirements of deer. The second fact sheet focuses on the planting of the food plot, including what and when to plant along with the equipment needed to plant and care for your food plot. The third fact sheet identifies management strategies to care for the food plot for sustainability and environmental health. This first fact sheet will cover basic considerations for designing your food plot.

Food plot with purple top turnips. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Food Plot Size

Food plot size is dependent on the population of deer and the size of your property. For example, creating a food plot for white-tailed deer where heavy populations currently exist, you may need large, numerous plots to prevent over use, especially if few agricultural crops are nearby. In this situation, plots ranging from 2 to 5 acres or more are recommended to handle heavy pressure and minimize excessive injury to plants in the food plot(s).

To help identify areas with heavy pressure and to monitor use, you can create a deer exclosure. A deer exclosure is a small, fenced plot made of wire or plastic materials that prevents deer access to the protected plants. You can monitor the level of browsing, and tell which plants are preferred. For example, if plants such as clover are constantly over-browsed, they will die out in the plot but be present in the exclusion cage, providing a comparison to what would be growing if plants were not over-browsed. If consistent high levels of browsing occur, additional plots or acres would need to be installed so the plant species you want to grow can be maintained in the food plot.

In less densely-populated wildlife areas, or where agricultural crops are plentiful, plots less than 2 acres may provide enough forage to meet your food plot goals. For hunting situations, ¼- to ½-acre plots may be ideal, but choosing or creating areas where enough sunlight reaches the plants is critical. If your food plot is expected to provide feed and/or cover in the late winter months, then the plot should be a minimum of 1 acre and, for this purpose, “bigger is better.”

How many food plots or what total acreage should you install? The level of management and desired impact you plan to achieve determines this. If you intend to “intensely” managing the area for high quality and quantity of forage, installing food plots on 1 to 1 ½ percent of your property can provide positive impact for deer in a given area. This would be 7 to 10 acres of food plots per square mile (or per 640 acres). With a more “average or normal” management approach, a minimum of 5 percent of the property should be dedicated to have noticeable impact for white-tailed deer. To provide optimum nutrition and benefit, food plots should be evenly distributed across the entire property. A variety of crops may be necessary to provide high quality food year-round.

If you have 50 to 100 acres and want to draw, attract or hunt deer on your property, where do you start? First, determine the quantity, quality, type and location of food sources near your land. Then, you can identify supplemental food sources for your food plot to make a significant difference for the wildlife. For example, energy in the diet of white-tailed deer is critical during late fall and winter. So, corn or grain sorghum, which are high-energy forages, could provide much needed energy during that time of the year. This would especially be true in years of poor acorn production. (See the nutritional considerations section for more information on food sources.)

Roadway seeded with annual rye and oats. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Food Plot Shape

The shape and layout of the food plot also needs to be considered in your goals. Making an opening in a woodland or installing a food plot in an existing opening can change the ecosystem around the perimeter of the opening. This abrupt change on the perimeter, where one habitat type stops and another begins, is called an edge.

Increasing habitat edges can promote usage of the area by deer and other wildlife. The amount of edge created by a long narrow plot is much greater than a square plot with equal acreage. Also, wavy, uneven edges provide extra length and a more natural look than straight line edges. The distance from cover to the edge may be of concern for small species of wildlife. If the distance is too far, the smaller species may avoid the area because of possible exposure to predators. To help reduce this concern, placing food plots near plentiful cover is beneficial. Many larger game species of wildlife prefer to move along and inhabit woodland edges; however, these woodland edges may increase predation of small animals and cause relocation of some bird species. To prevent this, planting shrubs, vines and other low story vegetation adjacent to the plot creates a soft edge along the perimeter to encourage wildlife movement through those areas.

Also, consider your usage of the area when designing your food plot. If the food plot is designed for hunting purposes, archers may find smaller narrow plots more suitable to reduce shot distances. The width of plots may be less important to firearm hunters.

Some logging roads are great places for food plots if there is direct sun for at least four to six hours each day to provide adequate sunlight for plant growth. You may need to cut back the majority of the tall trees approximately 50 feet from the road, at least on one side of the road, to create adequate light. Placing the tops of these trees near game trails that cross the road may enhance the crossing spot, by providing additional cover. For smaller wildlife species, such as rabbits or game birds, placing food plots near wintertime escape cover is important.

Logging roads that run east/west are ideal for seeding because of increased sunlight. Photo by Mark Landefeld, Ohio State University Extension. This picture shows habitat successional stage 4, a young woodland. Photo by Mark Landefeld, Ohio State University Extension.

Providing Cover

If the goal in managing your property is to attract and keep certain wildlife species on your land, providing the right habitat is critical. All wildlife need food, water and ample cover to thrive. You will be most successful by determining the most limiting, or prominent need, for a selected wildlife species, and then providing it. The first step is to determine the stage of habitat available on your property. The stage of habitat identifies food and cover resources available to wildlife.

The successional stages of habitat are categorized by numbers one through five, and will change over a period of time, if left unattended:

• Stage 1 – Bare ground: will become vegetated and turn into a grass or weedy field
• Stage 2 – Weedy fields or a tall grass field: provides insects, seeds for food, forage, cover, and will become brushy with time if left uncut
• Stage 3 – The brushy stage: low growing shrubs or bushes that provide woody browse, a variety of berries, more seeds and trees start to grow
• Stage 4 – Young woodland: has relatively dense number of trees providing cover and food for many wildlife species
• Stage 5 – Mature woodland: larger trees with an open understory, provide a variety of nut trees, soft mast and cavity trees for nesting

Once you have determined the stages of habitat on your property, you can evaluate the available habitat resources and plan for those that are limited. Sometimes, enhancing cover and natural food sources (food plots can also be considered habitat) can make more difference in attracting wildlife than installing food plots alone. Single, small food plots have little impact on the overall food supply for wildlife, but creating thick, dense cover of brushy low growing shrubs or bushes, for example, may draw and keep white-tailed deer in a desired location. Wildlife biologists differ on amounts of “sanctuary,” or dense cover, areas for deer, but a minimum of 25 percent of your property area is usually recommended.

Management will help create wildlife habitat. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

An example of thick, dense cover for deer is 3 to 5 acre blocks of dense vegetation consisting of bushes, trees, briars and other woody vegetation that limits visibility beyond 50-60 yards. These areas, where little to zero human activity occurs, will create a secure bedding area and attract white-tailed deer. Providing quality cover like this should be a top priority if nothing like this currently exists on your property. Again, more is better regarding available space, so establishing multiple dense-cover, or sanctuary, areas is preferred.

If hunting is planned, strategically position food plots in relation to bedding areas to maximize success. Prevailing wind direction should be taken into account so the wind is not blowing from the hunter’s position directly to the bedding area. Normally, cross wind arrangements provide greater advantage for the hunter.

Hedgerows also provide important cover and food resources for many species of wildlife. A hedgerow is typically a line of closely-spaced trees, shrubs, vines and herbaceous plants that provide both food and cover. These structures often form along old fence rows, but may also be constructed where needed. Hedgerows serve as great wind breaks for wildlife in open areas and provide cover for small animals. Hedgerows also serve as travel corridors providing concealed travel areas for wildlife.

Encouraging Natural Foods

Increasing natural food production may be the most overlooked part of many landowners’ management plans. Raspberries, blackberries, apples, crabapples, nuts of all kinds, persimmons, elderberries, sumac, grapevines, dogwood, viburnum, and many other natural foods can provide enormous amounts of nutrition for wildlife if you manage them properly. Many of the above listed trees and shrubs can also be planted or encouraged in hedgerows and soft edges.

American crabapple producing fruit. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Within woodlands, a technique called Crop Tree Release can be used to enhance natural food sources for wildlife. A crop tree is one that a landowner wants to favor, or enhance, through the removal of less desirable trees around it. For example, an oak tree’s acorn production will increase as the tree’s crown size increases. To stimulate tree crown growth, a landowner can provide additional sunlight by cutting down, topping or girdling competitors that are overshadowing and reducing sunlight to the crop tree. Releasing crop trees to promote increased growth and food production should be part of a manager’s food enhancement plan.

For more information on crop tree release, see OSU fact sheet “Enhancing Food (Mast) Production for Woodland Wildlife in Ohio.” For this fact sheet, and others on woodland and wildlife management, visit the Ohio Woodland Stewards website at woodlandstewards.osu.edu.

Nutritional Considerations

Each species of wildlife requires a specific quantity and quality of nutrition to thrive in their environment. White-tailed deer, for example, will consume a mixture of grain, forbs (flowering plants), woody browse (leaves and twigs), fungi, grasses, and legumes in various quantities during different seasons of the year. This is necessary for quality antler production, maximum fawn conception, and winter survival. Because wildlife has such a diverse set of food requirements, providing something different, such as mast crops (acorns and other nuts), apples, fruits, berries or other foodstuff not available in your area, may be the best attractant. Remember, too, the length of growing season for each crop can vary greatly, so choose carefully to make crops available for wildlife consumption if you want them producing at a specific time of the season.

Many wildlife biologists classify wildlife food into one of three food categories: primary, secondary, and starvation or filler. To be the most beneficial for wildlife, food plots should consist of primary food species such as clovers and other legumes, large or small grains or brassicas, etc.

• Primary foods are consumed by the animal when unlimited supplies of many food varieties exist.
• Secondary foods are eaten by the animal when preferred primary foods do not exist, but staple items are instead available and regularly consumed.
• Starvation/filler foods are eaten by the animal to keep from starving to death when primary and secondary foods do not exist in adequate quantities.

On average, white-tailed deer consume food at a rate of 3 to 4 percent of their body weight each day, on a dry matter basis, which means measuring weight of food eaten without the water content. This amounts to more than 2000-3000 pounds of dry matter per year. To give you an idea of this quantity, an average acre of alfalfa in Ohio produce 6000-8000 pounds of hay during the growing season. The age of each deer and the season of the year also dictate the amount of food consumed. While supplying high quality forage year-round is needed to maximize growth potential of bucks and does, peak forage consumption occurs at different times during the year. Bucks tend to increase food consumption during antler development, while a doe consumes more feed during lactation. More information about this may be found by searching online for the Purdue University publication FNR-194 about food plots for white-tailed deer.

For an adult deer to simply maintain body condition, a diet of foods containing 6 to 10 percent protein is required. However, for yearling growth and mature buck antler development, the minimum average should be16 percent protein. Adult female deer require a diet of 11 to 15 percent protein during late gestation, but her requirement for optimum milk production may increase to 22 to 24 percent. Fawns, after weaning, require 16 to 22 percent protein for maximum growth. Plants to include in food plots will be included in the second fact sheet in this series.

While you often hear about protein content various plants can provide in food plots, high quantities of carbohydrates are also required in the deer diet. Individual requirements vary seasonally and by the animal’s life stage. Energy is needed to regulate body temperature, to promote growth activity, reproduction and body maintenance. While it is difficult to establish specific energy minimum requirements, mature does and adult bucks require about 25 kilocalories of digestible energy per day for each pound of body weight. This requirement can be higher at specific times, such as peak lactation for the doe or after the breeding season for bucks that have lost a lot of weight. To promote breeding success, does and bucks instinctively feed heavily on food with high carbohydrate levels before rutting activities begin to purposely build up fat reserves, a process called lipogenesis. Items such as acorns, corn and other grain crops provide high levels of carbohydrates that provide energy.

Palatability of the food source(s) should also be considered when trying to provide nutrition for wildlife. Plants may be very high in protein, but if they do not taste good they may be consumed only as a last resort. Also, forage quality generally deteriorates as plants mature during their growing season so manipulation by clipping or bush-hogging grass and legume plants in a food plot at the proper time, before the plant completely matures, helps maintain vegetative, high quality, high protein foods for wildlife consumption.

The next two fact sheets in this series will focus specifically on what and when to plant in the food plot, as well as the equipment needed to plant and care for your food plot. The third fact sheet identifies management strategies to care for the food plot for sustainability and environmental health.

I have been fly fishing for bass for 30 years, but the sheer fury with which they strike a fly still takes my breath away. I have tried every fly from Parachute Adams to eight-inch-long articulated streamers, and after 30 years I have compiled this list of my favorite flies for catching bass on a fly rod.

I loosely grouped these flies into four categories: Top Water, Subsurface, Sliders and Divers.

Below are 21 of My Favorite Flies for Catching Bass

Top Water — Poppers

Poppers are flies that sit on the surface of the water. They have earned their name because when you strip them on top of the water they make a popping sound. They can imitate everything from frogs to lizards to small mammals like mice or even birds. Bass are opportunistic and incredibly aggressive and oftentimes the strike on a popper is absolutely explosive.

1. Seaducer Double Barrel Popper

The deep double scoop moves a lot of water and produces a big pop, and that is exactly what predatory bass are looking for. A proven favorite for largemouth bass in Size 2 and smallmouth in Size 6. I would feel a little under-gunned if I didn’t have a couple of these in my fly box.

I was really happy with the flies I bought on Amazon. Here’s a link – Double Barrel Popper I don’t have a fly shop close by so the fast deliver worked perfect.

I’ve had great luck with yellow/chartreuse and black/white colors. They’ve proven to be super effective when the top water bite is on

These poppers tend to hang up in weeds, so accurate placement is needed with a clear retrieval path. An aggressive 6 to 10 inch strip produces an awesome pop.

Guide Pro Tip: Getting the right flies is important, but knowing how to fish them is even more important. Read 👉 How to Catch Bass with Poppers

2. Zudbubbler

The Zudbubbler is a revamped version of Tom Loving’s Gerbubble Bug, and it absolutely crushes largemouth and smallmouth bass. This fly has a squared head and tapered body, and this combination creates a satisfying pop with just the right amount of movement. As if the pop wasn’t enough, the Zudbubbler has a bunch of rubber legs that flutter in the water and trigger strikes from finicky bass.

The Zudbubbler comes in a wide variety of colors, but I am partial to green, black, or orange in Size 3/0.

The tapered body of the Zudbubbler lends itself to easier and precise casting, so I usually reach for this fly when bass are shaded up around structure.

3. Boogle Bug

The Boogle Bug has been in my box since I first waddled across the street to the neighbors pond. The proportions of this bug are perfect, and the durable nature of the material enables you to fish this fly until full dark.

My favorite colors for the Boogle Bug are bright yellow, black or white. I like to fish a Size 6 for both smallmouth and largemouth bass.

Some fly shops will carry these, but I bought my last couple from AMAZON here’s a link to check the prices – BoogleBug Popper.

I’ve caught bass on this bug in all weather conditions at all times of the day. If the fishing is slow, cast the Boogle Bug up against some structure and let it sit. And sit. And sit. Let it sit for longer that you want, give it one 4 to 8 inch strip, and be ready…

4. Peeper Popper

I originally purchased the Peeper Popper to catch panfish, and I was pleasantly surprised at how many smallmouth I caught instead. Smallmouth bass love this bug.

The profile of the Peeper Popper lends itself to quieter water, so tie it on first thing in the morning or right at dark. Again, lay out a good cast and let it sit before stripping it back to you with even 6 inch strips.

5. Chubby Chernobyl

Although it was designed for trout, smallmouth and largemouth bass will hammer a Chubby Chernobyl on the right day. Look around and try and match the color of your Chubby to the color of the big grasshoppers, cicadas, or beetles that visit the banks of your favorite fishery.

You might find this at the local fly shop but I did see they’re available at Amazon here’s a link – Chubby Chernobyl Ant.

I like to fish this bug in a Size 6 through Size 10. If you are fishing stillwater, cast it up against structure and let it set for a moment before giving it a twitch to make those legs wiggle. You are trying to imitate an insect that has fallen into the water so try slightly shorter strips.

6. Mini Mouse Fly

The Mini Mouse isn’t a popper, but it makes a racket and draws smallmouth bass from the depths. I like to fish the Mini Mouse in a Size 6 or Size 10.

If you tie flies, these aren’t very difficult, but they make a huge mess. Consider buying these online, I found them on Amazon. Here’s a link – Mouse Fly Assortment

Cast the Mini Mouse up against the bank and skate it across the water by keeping your rod tip high and wiggling the tip of your rod as you strip in line. Although I’ve had bass eat mouse patterns all day long, fishing this fly in the early morning or right at dusk seems to work the best.

Subsurface — Streamers

Streamers are weighted flies that are meant to be fished beneath the surface of the water. They are designed to imitate everything from baitfish to leeches to crayfish. The action of a streamer is dependent upon the fly tying material, weight, and style of retrieve.

Guide Pro Tip: Clouser’s work for nearly every fish you’d cast a fly too. Learn how to use them in this article. 👉 A Complete Guide to Fly Fishing with the Clouser Minnow

7. Clouser Deep Minnow

The Clouser Deep Minnow is one of the best bass flies in existence. It imitates a wounded or dazed baitfish, and the weighted eyes lend the fly a jumping and diving motion that smallmouth and largemouth bass find irresistible. I like to fish the Clouser in Size 4 – Size 10 in a wide variety of color combinations including white/chartreuse, white/red, black/red, yellow/brown, and just plain white.

Clouser’s are a MUST have fly. Sometimes I’ll tie my know or just buy them from Amazon. Here’s a link to a nice mix of effective colors – Clouser Deep Minnow

Strip in the Clouser with steady strips and vary the speed and depth of your retrieve until you start getting strikes.

8. Woolly Bugger

The Woolly Bugger can be fished the world over for a wide variety of fish including smallmouth and largemouth bass. The profile coupled with the lifelike motion of the maribou feathers in the tail of the fly make it a must have for any water body you visit. My favorite colors are olive, black and white. I carry Woolly Buggers in Size 6 – Size 10.

Woolly Buggers are fast and fun to tie, but if you want a variety of colors you can end up buying a mountain of feathers. Great variety packs can be purchased at Amazon here’s a link – Woolly Bugger Fly Assortment

Fish the Woolly Bugger with steady strips. A sink tip line and varying speed and pattern of your strips can also be very effective. Below is a YouTube Video I made for making a Sinking Tip for your Fly Line.

9. Galloup’s Peanut Envy

This fly is essentially a Woolly Bugger on steroids and largemouth bass love a big meal. I like to fish the Peanut Envy in white or olive in Size 6.

Fish the Peanut Envy on a sink tip line with a variable stripping pattern. When you cast it out, let it sink for awhile… The fluttering motion drives fish crazy, and oftentimes you will find a big bass on the end of your line when you give that line the first strip.

10. Nancy P Galloup’s

The Nancy P imitates a crawfish and if a great option for largemouth bass when the water temperatures are chilly. Try and match the size and color of the fly to the crayfish in your local waters, but I like to fish an orange version in a Size 6.

Since the Nancy P is supposed to be a crayfish, try and bounce this fly along the bottom of the river or lake with slow even strips.

11. Mohair Leech

The Mohair Leech is an effective leech pattern that works great for both smallmouth and largemouth bass in rivers and lakes. I like to fish the Mohair Leech in Size 8 or Size 10 in either black or green. If there is a lot of algae in the water, fish an olive Mohair Leech.

This is another fly that can be tough to find at a fly shop. I bought black and rust colored at Amazon. Here’s a link to Amazon if your interested – Mohair Leech

Fish the Mohair Leech on a slow sinking line. You want to strip this fly very slowly along the bottom.

12. Double Bunny

The Double Bunny is a baitfish pattern this is tremendously effective for largemouth bass. The fly is tied with two strips of bunny hair, and the way those fibers wiggle in the water is hard to beat. I like to fish the Double Bunny in Size 4 in an olive/white combination.

I found a really cool sub-surface collection of Streamers on Amazon here’s a link to check out the prices Bunny Streamer Collection.

The Double Bunny is the most effective around schooling bass or structure. Vary your stripping pattern and throw on a sink tip if you aren’t getting down far enough in the water column.

13. Bunny Leech

The Bunny Leech is another leech pattern that entices both largemouth and smallmouth bass. Tied with rabbit fur, this fly is particularly effective in stillwater fisheries in Size 6 or Size 8 in black or olive.

Fish this fly on a sink tip line. Bounce it along the bottom with very slow strips and when your line suddenly feels gummy give it a hard strip-set.

14. Muddler Minnow

The Muddler Minnow is one of the most versatile flies in the world, and it is no surprise it does well in largemouth and smallmouth fisheries. The Muddler Minnow is a great baitfish imitation and I like to fish it in olive, white or tan in Size 10.

Seriously consider getting your Muddler Minnows on Amazon. I’ve tried to tie these and have never seemed to get it right. The prices will be much lower than at the local fly shop. Here’s a link to Muddler Minnows at Amazon

15. Swimming Jimmy

Fish the Muddler Minnow wherever you see baitfish hanging out. Adjust the depth and speed of your strips until you start getting into fish.

The Swimming Jimmy is a really unique fly that has incredible action in the water. This fly is supposed to imitate a wounded baitfish, and I have caught plenty of big largemouth and smallmouth bass with this wonky fly.

I like to fish this fly in a Size 4 or Size 8 on a sink tip line. Slower strips seem to lend this fly the best action, and I really love the originally olive/white combination.

Sliders

Sliders are flies that are meant to be fished on top of the water. They typically have a cone-shaped head and dive slightly under the water when you strip them. Sliders are more subtle than poppers.

16. Sneaky Pete

The Sneaky Pete is one of my favorite largemouth and smallmouth bass flies. The subtle wiggle motion coupled with the rubber legs makes this fly irresistible to bass. I like to fish this fly in Size 4 or Size 8 in either white, green, or black.

Finding Sneaky Pete’s at a flyshop that have been tied well can be a challenge. I found some on AMAZON that are supplied by Orvis. Here’s a link to check the prices – Orvis Weedless Sneaky Peter.

Cast the Sneaky Pete up against structure and let it sit for a moment before retrieving it with 6 to 8 inch strips. If the fish are picky, increase the length of time between strips.

17. Murdich Slider

The Murdich Slider is a baitfish pattern that has a lot of flash and wiggle that largemouth and smallmouth bass love. This slider is tied with buoyant deer-hair head that keeps it near the surface unless it is fished with a sink tip line. I like to fish this slider in a Size 2, and white has always been my favorite color.

Fish this fly when there are big fish around but the popper bite just isn’t on. Slow down the retrieve if the fish are especially timid.

18. Murray’s Shenandoah Slider

Although this fly was originally designed for smallmouth bass, I have watched plenty of largemouth bass inhale this fly. I like to fish this fly in Size 6 in the traditional yellow/olive color.

I have found that this slider is especially effective in waterbodies that have good populations of sunfish. A slower strip retrieve usually gets the most strikes.

Divers

Divers are flies that can be fished along the surface at slower speeds or subsurface at faster strip speeds. They tend to dive beneath the water if they are fished with sharp strips, but their buoyant nature means that they will float back to the top. They are meant to imitate everything from frogs to baitfish.

19. Dahlberg Diving Bug

The Dahlberg Diving Bug is the granddaddy of all diver flies, and it is effective against largemouth and smallmouth bass. This fly is a great frog imitation and should be fished in the traditional olive/brown/white or green/yellow color in a Size 4 through Size 8. Try and match the color of the frogs that you see on the banks.

Here’s a link to Amaon where I found my Dahlberg Divers.

This fly is designed to imitate a frog, so it should be fished with quick, hard strips that send the fly diving beneath the water. Strip it once or twice, let it float back to the surface, and then let it sit for a couple of seconds before repeating.

20. Puglisi Diver

The Puglisi Diver was originally designed for pike, but it catches more than its fair share of big largemouth bass as well. I like to fish a Size 1/0, purple/black version of this fly at night.

Fish this fly with short hard strips followed by a long pause. The takes are usually pretty violent…

21. Whitlock’s Waking Sunfish

This fly works great in any waterbody that has healthy populations of sunfish. The motion of this fly in the water imitates a wounded sunfish and largemouth bass can rarely turn down such a tasty morsel. I like to fish this fly in a Size 6 or Size 10.

I like to fish this fly just beneath the surface of the water so that ripples are formed on the surface. Stop stripping it occasionally and let it float to the surface and be ready for an explosion.

I have fished for everything from bonefish to trout, but fly fishing for largemouth and smallmouth bass is still one of my favorite things to do. Watching bass explode on a popper or inhale a slider makes my heart jump every time. As if that wasn’t enough, the burly strength and aerial shows that these fish put on are hard to beat. Best of all, bass are aggressive and opportunistic predators, which translates into lots of action if you are fishing with the right flies. So cast that popper, let it sit, give it one good strip and be ready…