I’ve always associated the plant called deer heart with my times hunting Sitka blacktail deer in Southeast Alaska high country, which is something I’ve done pretty much every August since I was a kid. It’s a small, fragile plant that consists of a single heart-shaped leaf attached to a stem that usually doesn’t grow much higher than six inches. Deer heart grows from sea level, where it’s most tender and nutritious early in the summer, to mountain tops, where it’s best to eat late in the season. Deer follow it and other vegetation up mountains as summer advances. By mid-September, when deer heart is all but dead in the high country, deer descend to lower elevations for better browsing.

Last August, during a hunt, I came upon a deer I’d shot lying on a deer heart-covered bench, with semi-pulverized pieces of the plant in its mouth. There was an ethereal slant to the evening light, the sort that illuminates subtle, hard-to-see details of the landscape. I was surrounded everywhere by deer heart, except where there were cliffs, rockfaces, and the occasional clump of stunted mountain hemlock. I am frequently caught off guard by how something as seemingly simple as shifting light can reveal in an instant how miraculous the world is. I plucked a heart-shaped leaf and stuck it in my mouth. It’s peppery, like arugula, but has an aftertaste that oscillates between good and a little strong. I’d never thought a lot about deer heart, other than using the amount of it browsed as a gauge for where to hunt deer, and to try not to slip on it when it’s raining. I looked from the fields of deer heart to the dead animal, wondering why it’s so easy to become preoccupied with certain things while being blind to so much. I thanked and apologized to the deer, then sliced my knife through the hide along the backbone from the base of the skull to the tail. I cut one side of quarters free, peeled off a backstrap and, before removing a side of ribs, severed the heart and lay it upon its namesake plant.

It was dark by the time I hung my heavy game bags from a branch of a mountain hemlock. During the night I listened as the wind made the tent shudder and bushes crackle. I thought about brown bears. I washed off the deer’s blood the best I could and peed and spat around the tent, but I still smelled “delicious.” Years before, I left a trail camera on a salmon stream that had a high number of bears fishing on it a few miles from where I was hunting. As an experiment, I peed in front of where the camera was pointed to see how animals would react. I returned a few days later and found that most of the images showed bears running away, looking terrified. A young bear even dropped the salmon it was carrying in its rush to get away. One large bear, however, behaved differently. It came during the night and, instead of fleeing, crawled like a cat toward the camera. I imagined that animal crawling toward the tent and thought about becoming meat.

At home, I organized the deer meat in trays divided by roasts, steak, and scraps I’d grind into burger. I trimmed the bones; later, I’d render broth from them. My two young sons—one a toddler and the other three and a half years old—“helped” by sawing on meat with butter knives and dropping pieces of burger meat into the grinder. I sliced a heart thin and doused it with sesame oil and Montreal steak seasoning. When it was done, we snacked as I wrapped meat in freezer paper. Some people do not like the taste or texture of heart. It’s always the first part of the animal I eat, which is in a large part because it does not freeze well. It’s also delicious and, more than that, evocative of much of what I love about life in Southeast Alaska.

Three years prior, my wife and I gave our eldest son his first solid food. We wanted our kids’ first tastes of food to be of something we loved, that came from the streams and forests where we live. First we mashed up blueberries, then we tried coho salmon. It had not gone over well. Not long after, I brought a deer home and fed our son small bits of fried heart. He devoured them.

Once we had a couple of deer, as well as a good supply of salmon in the freezer, it was time to go berry picking. When the next sunny day came, we headed to one of our favorite blueberry patches in the mountains. I carried our toddler in a backpack. As we hiked a trail to a field of deer heart, his brother demanded, and constantly added details to, a story about dragons from his mother. Though it was only the third week of August, most of the plants were showing the first signs of brown. After placing the boys on drier ground where they could play and pick berries, my wife and I set to filling our buckets.

Food gathering, whether hunting or berry picking, is probably the most meditative activity I know. For a while I picked alone, my thoughts quieting as I focused on filling my bucket. Occasionally, the boys would punch or bite each other and scream and cry. Other times they giggled as they wrestled and popped blueberries into each other’s mouth. When I checked on them, they were taking turns smashing blueberries on each other’s heads, both of their smiling faces stained purplish red, sitting amidst deer heart.

The pickings were pretty good and after a couple hours we had a few gallons. I joined the boys and their mother on a small plateau covered in deer heart fringed with bushes heavily laden with blueberries. The light on the mountains had that same ethereal quality, revealing cracks and fissures worn by time in rockfaces and millions of deer hearts surrounding us.

It was hard to walk away from something so good. I placed my younger son in his backpack and, before leaving, searched for a tender looking deer heart. Near where a deer had been browsing, I plucked a leaf and then placed it in my mouth. I slowly chewed, its enigmatic taste engulfing my taste buds, as I followed my wife and older son down the mountain.

Originally published in Issue No. 26, Winter 2022

Chemicals at first glance can be confusing. How are we supposed to know what all the different herbicides on the market do and which ones to use, when we can barley even pronounce the lengthy words that look like they fell out of an organic chemistry textbook. “What herbicide can I spay on my food plot?” is one of the most common questions we get, so I decided to create an herbicide guide to help fellow food plotters understand chemical weed control.

Before Planting-

Before planting any of our food plot blends, it is important to kill off all vegetation in the plot area. This creates an area that is free of any weed competition, allowing the seeds get established without fighting other plants for resources. In order to kill all vegetation, I recommend using a glyphosate product. The chemical glyphosate is found labeled under many different trade names, the most popular being “Roundup”. Glyphosate is a non-selective herbicide meaning that it will kill most plants that it comes in contact with. Glyphosate works by absorbing though the leaves of the plant then spreading to all parts, disrupting amino acid production need for growth. It is important to note that glyphosate only affects actively growing plants and does not affect seeds in the soil. After the plot area has been sprayed and killed off, the seed can be no-till drilled in, or the plot area can be disked and planted.

Preemergent herbicides can also be used as a preventative application to keep weeds out of your food plots. Preemergent chemicals are used just as they sound, they are applied to the soil before the weeds germinate and emerge. Thus, with preemergent herbicides, weeds are not sprayed when they are found in the food plot, instead the area is sprayed beforehand to keep the weeds from coming up all together. There are residuals in these chemicals which stay active in the soil and has a residual killing effect on germinating plants for a specific amount of time. These chemicals can be a great tool for food plotters, but it’s important to read the herbicide label to see what crops the specific chemical is approved for and to see how long the residual effects will be on the soil as that may dictate what can be planted in the plot area later on down the road. Some chemicals won’t allow planting of specific crops within a certain time period of the application due to the ability of the chemical to kill of specific germinating seeds.

Weed Control in Fall Annual Plot- This includes our food plot blends: Brassica Banquet, Canola Crave, Greenfield, Max-Attract, Root King Radish, Shake & Rake, Trophy Grazer Oats, Turbo Turnip, Ultra Forage, & Wicked Greens

Weed control in fall annual plots is usually not necessary as long as the food plot area was prepared correctly before planting. There may be some weeds that will show up in the plot, but most will die after the first frost. The weeds should not get to a threshold where they will need chemical control in fall annual plots.

Weed Control in Perennial Plots- This includes our food plot blends: Alfa-Feast, Champion Chicory, King Ladino White Clover, Monster Mix, & Rackup Red Clover.

Weed control is a necessary aspect if you plan to keep your perennial plots lasting for years to come. Spraying onto growing vegetation to kill the weeds that are already in you plot calls for a post emergent herbicide, and a selective herbicide at that. Since you will be spraying onto some foliage that you want to keep but some that you want to kill, it is important to get an herbicide that is selective and only kills the weeds.

To understand what selective chemicals to use on perennial plots, its important to understand two main types of weeds, grass weeds and broadleaf weeds. Grass weeds have leaves that are narrow blades. Common grass weeds would be Crabgrass, Goosegrass, Giant foxtail and so on. Broadleaves, in contrast, are plants where their leaves are not a narrow blade but a more rounded leaf. Examples of common broadleaf weeds are Ragweed, Redroot Pigweed, Pale Smartweed, Cocklebur and this list goes on for miles.

The seeds that are in our perennial mixes such as clovers, chicory, and alfalfa all fall into the broadleaf plant category. With that being said, controlling grass weeds in perennial plots can be accomplished by applying a grass specific herbicide. This herbicide will only target the grass type plants and will not harm the broadleaf plants. One type of grass specific herbicide is Clethodim, which is safe on any of our perennial food plot blends.

Controlling broadleaf weeds in perennial plots can be a little bit trickier but can still definitely be done. All of the plants in our perennial plots are considered broadleaves, so we have to select an herbicide that can kill the broadleaf weeds but not our broadleaf plants that we want to protect. For our King Ladino White Clover and our Rackup Red Clover, we recommend using a 2,4 DB herbicide commonly found labeled as “Butyrac”. This will not harm the clover but can kill many broadleaf weeds. If you have both broadleaf and grass weeds in your clover, do not mix clethodim with 2,4DB in the same tank. Instead, you can either spray the plot in two different applications, one with clethodim then go back later with the 2,4 DB, or you could use Imazamox as a single application.

When chicory is added into the mix with our blends, Monster Mix, Alfa Feast, and Champion Chicory, we suggest using the chemical, Imazamox, which can be found labeled under “Imox” and “Octivio”. The great thing about Imazamox is it can control both grass and broadleaf weeds, but it is important to read the label as the plot will need to be sprayed when the chicory is at a specific crop stage in order for it to not be harmed by the chemical.

It is important to note that I only listed a small selection of chemicals on the market and there are many other chemicals that will work. When using chemical herbicides, it is always important to read the label because it will tell you how to safely use the chemical, what crops it is safe on, what weeds it kills, and what rate to apply the chemical.

Perennial Food Plot Herbicide Flow Chart

An evolution of the legendary Trophy Bonded Bear Claw, Federal’s new Terminal Ascent bullet is a cutting-edge projectile possessing excellent aerodynamics and outstanding accuracy. It offers arguably the most versatile on-impact performance characteristics of all big game hunting bullets.

The short video below shows a hunter taking a Texas aoudad at 600 yards with Federal Custom Shop Rifle Ammo loaded with a Terminal Ascent bullet. Other equipment used: Mesa Precision Arms Rifle, Swarovski Z8 Scope, Silencer Central Banish 30 Suppressor.

Along with factory-loaded ammo for myriad popular cartridges, Federal introduced the Terminal Ascent in component-bullet form. Initial calibers and weights include a 130-grain 6.5mm version with a G1 ballistic coefficient of .532, 136-grain .277 (BC.493), 155-grain 7mm (.586), 175-grain .308 (.520) and a 200-grain .308 (.608).

The Terminal Ascent is basically the fourth generation of Bear Claw-type bullets. Following the original Bear Claw was the composite-tipped, boattailed Trophy Bonded Tip big game bullet optimized for all-around use on deer- to moose-size game.

Third came the Edge TLR, which provided excellent aerodynamics and on-impact performance, but Federal felt it lacked the extraordinary accuracy demanded by today’s extended-range hunters.

Two years of R&D have resulted in the Terminal Ascent, a bullet that shares the ideal impact performance of the Edge TLR and regularly shoots 0.6-inch, 10-shot, 100-yard groups.

Like the Bear Claw, the design features a rear portion of solid copper and a lead front core bonded to the jacket. As a result, no matter how fast it is driven and how close an animal, the Terminal Ascent won’t “grenade” on impact. A good mushroom shape with a generous shank will create a large-diameter wound channel and drive deep—no matter how much heavy bone and dense muscle it encounters.

A boattail enables air to flow around the rear profile with minimum friction and cavitation. A sophisticated heat-resistant, hollow composite tip with a sleek profile further enhances aerodynamics and provides an unparalleled on-impact expansion mechanism.

This composite tip is heat resistant, so it doesn’t erode and suffer reduced, unpredictable aerodynamics like common Delrin polymer may when high-BC projectiles are fired from extreme-velocity cartridges.

Because of the hollow composite tip, which collapses inward on impact and exposes the massive hollow nose of the main projectile, the Terminal Ascent design provides reliable expansion at velocities as low as 1,500 fps—and in many versions 1,400 fps. This means that even when impacting at long range, your bullet will expand reliably and kill cleanly.

To test how easy it is to obtain good handload results with the Terminal Ascent, I assembled 10-round batches for three different cartridges, using an educated guess to pick propellant types and charge weights.

For my Ruger M77 Hawkeye African, I loaded the 130-grain 6.5mm version over 47 grains of Reloder 16 in once-fired Lapua 6.5×55 cases. For the 155-grain 7mm, I loaded a test batch for my .280 Ackley Improved Kimber Mountain Ascent, charging Nosler brass with 59 grains of H4831sc. I loaded the 200-grain .30 caliber version for my Kimber 8400 .300 Win. Mag., charging once-fired, nickel-plated Federal cases with 70 grains of H4831sc.

An all cases I primed with Federal Gold Medal primers. Before seating the Terminal Ascent bullets, I contacted Federal’s tech guru Jared Kutney for some seating-depth advice.

“Terminal Ascent bullets have a secant ogive—some more noticeable than others—but in contrast to standard secant ogive bullets, they do like a little jump. We recommend starting with .050 to .075 inch of jump and adjusting from there. We have found that .060 inch works well for the 6.5mm and 7mm bullets, specifically.”

Following his suggestions but wishing to mix it up a little, I seated bullets in the 6.5×55 test batch .060 inch off the rifling leade but seated projectiles in the .280 Ackley Improved and the .300 Win. Mag. ammo to .050 off the leade.

Three consecutive three-shot 100-yard groups averaged 0.69 inch out of the .300 Win. Mag. Velocity averaged 2,842 fps with a standard deviation of 13 fps. The Ruger 6.5×55 produced superb accuracy as well, averaging 0.77-inch groups for a series of three consecutive three-shot groups at 100 yards. Velocity averaged 3,029 fps with a standard deviation of eight fps.

Finally, I tested the 155-grain 7mm Terminal Ascent in the lightweight Kimber. It has a spaghetti-thin barrel, and it will shoot sub m.o.a. with ammo it likes, but it takes considerably more tuning than heavier rifles.

My handload did not produce sub-m.o.a. accuracy—averaging 1.23 m.o.a. for three three-shot groups—but standard deviation was just 4.6 fps. Average speed was 3,000 fps.

So two out of three of the rifles tested produced sub-m.o.a. accuracy with the first Terminal Ascent handloads attempted—and that was on a day with winds gusting to 15 mph. I’d say that’s downright impressive.

As for the rifle that didn’t, I’m going to work with it. The 155-grain 7mm Terminal Ascent bullet is theoretically perfectly balanced for the .280 Ackley cartridge, and I’m determined to find an accurate load. Judging by the easy accuracy provided by the 6.5mm and .30 caliber versions, I suspect it won’t be difficult.

One other element of the Terminal Ascent bullet line intrigued me. I’m a big fan of the Trophy Bonded Tip bullet and had excellent luck using the Edge TLR in Africa, but I wanted to know more about the AccuChannel grooves around the Terminal Ascent’s shank.

“Solid shank bullets benefit from grooves from a dispersion standpoint,” he said. “Our leading theory is that it makes the bullet more malleable by creating a void into which bullet material can displace when engaging the rifling. The effect is a reduced magnitude of vibration applied to the barrel, and therefore, by way of reduced harmonic reaction of the barrel, a more consistent launch vector from shot to shot.”

There is a drawback, though. “The downside of grooves is the added drag they impart to the bullet in flight,” Kutney said.

However, all grooves are not created equal, and good engineers can minimize adverse effects.

“The AccuChannel provides a smoother geometry from a fluid flow standpoint so as to minimize the drag penalty of each groove,” Kutney said.

How much BC reduction are we talking about? Not much. Comparing the aerodynamics listed for equal-weight Edge TLR and the Terminal Ascent, the more accurate newer version gives up just 1.5 to 4 percent of BC.

I’ve taken a number of animals with Trophy Bonded Bear Claws, Trophy Bonded Tips and Edge TLRs. In every case, terminal performance has been textbook perfect.

Because the Terminal Ascent shares the construction characteristics of its predecessors and adds an unprecedented level of accuracy, it will undoubtedly provide excellent, dependable performance in the field.

That’s a question that pet owners have been asking for years. Some people swear that they have seen a raccoon snatch up a cat right out of their yard, while others believe that raccoons prefer to stick to their own kind and would never touch a feline. So, what’s the truth? Are raccoons predators of cats, or are they simply taking advantage of an easy meal? Keep reading to learn more about this topic.

Why are Raccoons a Threat to Cats?

Raccoons are a threat to cats because they are predators. Raccoons will eat small animals, including cats if they have the opportunity. While it is not common for raccoons to hunt and eat cats, it is always important for pet owners to take measures to protect their pets from possible predators, including raccoons. Raccoon-resistant trash cans and animal fencing can help keep pets safe from these critters.

(How to get rid of chipmunks? See this post for more)

What Can You Do To Protect Your Cat From Raccoons?

There are several things that you can do to protect your cat from raccoons. One of the best things that you can do is to make sure that your cat is up-to-date on its vaccinations. This will help to protect your cat from diseases that raccoons may carry. You should also keep your cat indoors, especially at night when raccoons are most active. If you must let your cat outdoors, make sure that it is in a secure area that raccoons cannot access. Finally, make sure to clean up any food or garbage that might attract raccoons to your property. By taking these precautions, you can help to keep your cat safe from harm.

How To Keep Raccoons Out Of Cat Food?

One way to keep raccoons out of cat food is to store the food in a securely sealed container. Raccoons are very clever and resourceful animals, so it is important to make sure that the container is not something that they can easily open. You should also keep the food in a place where raccoons cannot reach it, such as on a high shelf or in a locked cupboard. Finally, you can try feeding your cat at times when raccoons are not active, such as during the day.

(How To Get Rid Of Iguanas? See this post for more)

Do Raccoons Eat Cat Food?

It is not common for raccoons to eat cat food, as they prefer to eat small mammals, insects, and fruits and vegetables. However, there have been cases where raccoons have eaten cat food, so it is important to be aware of this possibility if you have a pet cat. If you are concerned that raccoons might be attracted to your cat’s food, you can take measures to protect the food, such as storing it in a securely sealed container or keeping it in a place where raccoons cannot reach it.

What Do Raccoons Eat?

Raccoons typically eat small mammals, insects, and fruits and vegetables. This diet helps them to stay healthy and provides them with the nutrients that they need.

Raccoons In Backyard? Here’s What to Do:

If you have a raccoon in your backyard, one of the best things to do is to contact a professional wildlife control company (or take care of it by yourself with an air rifle). These companies are experienced in safely removing raccoons from properties. Once the raccoon has been removed, you can take steps to prevent them from returning, such as sealing up any holes or gaps that they might use to get back into your yard. You should also make sure to clean up any food or garbage that might attract raccoons to your property.

(For more on the best air rifles for pest control, see this post)

FAQs

Can raccoons transmit diseases to my cat?

Yes, raccoons can transmit diseases to cats. This is why it is important to make sure that your cat is up-to-date on its vaccinations. Additionally, you should take measures to keep raccoons away from your cat, such as keeping it indoors or in a secure area outdoors.

Can raccoons give my cat rabies?

Yes, raccoons can give cats rabies. This is why it is so important to make sure that your cat is up-to-date on its vaccinations.

Can cats help in keeping raccoons away?

Having a cat would not necessarily mean having no raccoons in your backyard. Raccoons are dangerous and robust animals, and they are bigger than your cat. This means that even the friendliest cat cannot protect your property from a raccoon invasion.

A raccoon has injured my cat, what should I do?

If a raccoon has injured your cat, the first thing that you should do is to take your cat to the vet. It is also important to contact a professional wildlife control company to have the raccoon removed from your property. Once the raccoon has been removed, you can take steps to prevent them from returning, such as sealing up any holes or gaps that they might use to get back into your yard. You should also make sure to clean up any food or garbage that might attract raccoons to your property.

Other animals that can attack your cat:

1. Dogs

2. Coyotes

3. Foxes

4. Bobcats

5. Owls

6. Hawks

7. Weasels

8. Raccoons

9. Bears

10. Cougars

Conclusion

Raccoons are easily adaptive, and their diet depends on whatever they have access to, if that means your cat, they will attack it and eat it. Raccoons will eat your cat if they do have other food resources around them but there are cases where they will only get into quarrels with them over fight or territory. It is best to keep your cats inside and away from any potential danger. If you do find a raccoon in your backyard, the best thing to do would be to contact professional help to get it removed as quickly as possible. There are also measures you can take afterward to prevent them from returning.

Rubber boots are essential for those rainy days when you don’t want your feet to get wet. But if they start to leak or crack, it can be frustrating. That’s why we’ve put together this guide on how to fix them fast.

You don’t have to go through the hassle of buying a new pair of rubber boots just because they start to leak or crack. With our easy tips, you can have them fixed up in no time. So don’t wait – Repair Your Rubber Boots In No Time!

Don’t let a little crack or leak in your rubber boots turn into a big problem. Here are five ways to repair them quickly and easily in our compilation.

Read on here for more information on repairing cracks and leaks in rubber boots!

Can You Repair Rubber Boots?

Yes, it is possible to repair rubber boots. However, the extent of the repair will depend on the type of damage and the available materials. For minor damages, such as small holes or cracks, a patch can be used to fix the problem. More extensive damage, such as large holes or tears, may require the use of a patch and a sealant. If the damage is too severe, the boot may need to be replaced.

5 Ways to Repair Cracks and Leaks in Rubber Boots

If your rubber boots have cracks or leaks, there are several ways you can repair them. You can buy a rubber boot patch kit, use vulcanizing cement, use a sealant, use a hot glue gun, or use boot covers. Let’s see how these tips can be used to repair rubber boots that leak and crack.

1. Rubber boot patch kit

A rubber boot patch kit comes with a piece of rubber and instructions on how to apply it to the boot.

The process included in applying the patch may vary, but the kit will come with everything you need to complete the repair.

You can follow these steps:

1. Clean the area around the hole or leak with a damp cloth.
2. Cut the patch to size, if necessary.
3. Apply the adhesive to the back of the patch.
4. Peel off the backing and apply the patch to the boot.
5. Press down on the patch to adhere it to the boot.
6. Wear the boots after the adhesive has dried completely.

With a few minutes and effort, rubber boots can be repaired easily!

2. Use vulcanizing cement

Rubber boots are repaired with vulcanizing cement when they leak or crack. It works by bonding the two pieces of rubber together, which creates a strong seal that prevents further leaking.

Vulcanizing cement is available at most hardware stores and can be applied easily with a brush or roller. This type of repair is often used on rubber boots that are exposed to harsh weather conditions or frequent wear and tear. It results in a strong and durable repair that will last for many years.

3. Use sealant works

A sealant is a material that is used to fill in gaps or cracks, sealing them off from the rest of the surface. When applied to rubber boots, it creates a barrier that prevents water and other liquids from seeping through the cracks and leaks. This can be an effective way to repair and extend the life of your rubber boots.

The application process includes the following steps:

1. Start by cleaning the surface of the boot where the sealant will be applied. Use a damp cloth to remove any dirt, debris, or other foreign objects that could prevent the sealant from bonding properly.
2. Apply the sealant to the cracks and leaks, using a putty knife or other similar tool.
3. Smooth out the sealant so that it is level with the rest of the boot surface. Boots should be worn after the sealant has completely dried.

Sealants are typically made from silicone, latex, or other synthetic materials. They can be purchased at most hardware or home improvement stores.

When selecting a sealant, be sure to choose one that is specifically designed for use on rubber. Follow the instructions on the packaging to ensure proper application and drying time.

4. Use a hot glue gun

Rubber boots can be repaired with a hot glue gun if they have cracks or leaks. It works by heating the glue so that it can be easily applied to the affected area.

The hot glue will then cool down and harden, creating a seal that will prevent further water from leaking through.

To use a hot glue gun, first, make sure that the area to be repaired is clean and dry. Then apply a layer of glue around the perimeter of the hole or crack.

Be sure to smooth out any air bubbles so that the seal is as watertight as possible. Allow the glue to dry for several hours before wearing the boots again.

Hot glue guns are a quick and easy way to repair small cracks and leaks in rubber boots. However, they are not intended for use on larger holes or tears. If the damage to your boots is too severe, you will need to replace them entirely.

Mote read: Glue for rubber boots

5. Use boot covers

The Use of a boot cover works to repair the Cracks and leaks in rubber boots by providing a temporary seal that will allow the user to continue using the product while it is being repaired.

This method is often used when there is a small crack or leak that needs to be fixed, and it can be done quickly and easily without having to replace the entire boot.

Almost any hardware store or home improvement store sells boot covers, and they are typically made from a flexible material that can be easily applied to the affected area.

Once the cover is in place, it will need to be held down with a piece of tape or a similar product so that it does not come off while the boot is being repaired.

Once the repair is complete, the boot cover can be removed and the boot will be as good as new. In some cases, the use of a boot cover can also help to prevent further damage to the boot, which can save the user money in the long run.

Best way to patch rubber boots

There are many ways to patch a hole in rubber boots, but the best way depends on the size and location of the hole.

For small holes, use a strong adhesive like epoxy or super glue. For bigger holes, patch the hole from the inside with a piece of rubber or PVC pipe. If the hole is near the edge of the boot, you may also need to reinforce the edge with a strip of rubber or PVC.

Once you’ve patched the hole, be sure to test the repair by walking in a puddle or spraying the boots with water. If the repair seems secure, your boots should be good as new!

Conclusion

In conclusion, rubber boots are a great way to keep your feet dry and protected from the elements. However, they can sometimes leak or peel, and they may also crack if they’re not properly cared for. If you have a pair of rubber boots that are in need of repair, be sure to follow the steps outlined in this article so that you can get them back in working order. And when shopping for rubber boots, be sure to keep the above information in mind so that you can choose a pair that will last you for many years to come.

Thanks for reading!

FAQs

How to fix peeling rubber boots?

If your rubber boots are peeling, there are a few things you can do to try and fix the problem. First, make sure that the boots are clean and dry. If they are dirty or wet, they will be more likely to peel. Next, try using a mild soap or detergent to clean the boots. If this does not work, you can try using a rubber boot conditioner. Finally, if none of these things work, you may need to replace your boots.

How to find a leak in rubber boots?

There are a few ways that you can tell if your rubber boots leak. One way is to simply fill the boots with water and then check for any drips or leaks. Another way is to put the boots on and then step into a puddle or pool of water. If you see any water coming in through the boot, then you know that you leak. Finally, you can also check the inside of the boots for any water or moisture. If you see any signs of water, then you most likely leak into your boots.

How do keep rubber boots from cracking?

There are a few things you can do to help extend the life of your rubber boots and prevent them from cracking.

One is to make sure that you store them in a cool, dry place when they’re not being worn. If they’re exposed to too much heat or sunlight, the rubber will break down more quickly.

Another is to avoid wearing them in rough conditions whenever possible. If you know you’re going to be walking through mud or puddles, try to put on a different pair of shoes first and save the rubber boots for when you need them.

And finally, you can treat the surface of the boots with a silicone-based protectant. This will help create a barrier against water and dirt, and it will also make the boots easier to clean. Simply apply the protectant with a cloth or brush and then buff it dry.

The Ruger Mini-14 has proven its ruggedness since it started riding around in pickups in 1974, but getting it to consistently shoot neat little groups at 100 yards has often been an exercise in frustration. Accuracy—frankly not the Mini-14’s strongpoint—has generally taken a backseat to its simple and reliable operation. With competitive action-shooting events on the rise, Ruger decided to address this issue, introducing the Mini-14 Target Rifle accompanied by claims of minute-of-angle performance.

Appropriate for a Mini-14 derivative, the Target Rifle keeps the fixed-piston gas system and rotary bolt with dual locking lugs borrowed from the M1 Garand and the line’s military inspiration, the M14. The investment-cast receiver and L-shaped charging handle have a matte-stainless finish. Scope bases integral to the receiver—a feature that debuted on the Mini-14 Ranch Rifle during the early 1980s—also fittingly appear on the Target Rifle. Ruger includes high, 1-inch rings for mounting an optic, which is mandatory since the receiver and barrel are devoid of iron sights. Other features manifest in the Mini-14 family and carried on with the Target Rifle are a Garand-style safety, stout magazine release lever and ventilated, fiberglass handguard that covers the barrel from receiver to gas block.

The similarities end there.Ruger started its Mini-14 makeover by going straight for what most often is the deciding factor in a rifle’s accuracy—the barrel. Though the lightweight, 18 1⁄2-inch barrel of the standard Ranch Rifle makes for quick and easy handling, it has many times bore the brunt of the criticism stemming from inaccuracy. The Target Rifle, in contrast, has a heavy, hammer-forged, stainless steel barrel that is .78 inch in diameter where it emerges from the gas block, with an additional 3 1⁄2 inches of length. Its six-groove rifling has a 1:9 RH twist to stabilize all but the heaviest .224-caliber match bullets.

Prominent on the barrel is a 41⁄2-inch-long, harmonic-dampening weight. The 3⁄16-inch-thick sleeve slips over the barrel, and four Allen-head screws keep it in place. A series of helical grooves on the barrel’s surface allow the position of the harmonic dampener to be changed by turning it after loosening the attachment screws. Rotating the harmonic dampener clockwise moves it toward the receiver, while turning it counterclockwise shifts it toward the muzzle.

Barrel harmonics, or the vibration of the barrel during firing, can greatly affect point of impact and group size. Functions that occur within a rifle such as the firing pin striking the primer, the ignition of the propellant, the expansion of the propellant gases and the bullet’s contact with the rifling as it travels through the bore all produce a number of vibrations that are ultimately transmitted to the barrel. These vibrations cause the barrel to move in an arc, even before the bullet has exited the bore. If these vibrations were absolutely consistent, there would be a lot of rifles shooting one-hole groups. However, their magnitude and duration vary from shot to shot, and five bullets may leave the bore when the muzzle is at five different points on the vibration-induced arc. In part, this is why even a very tight group will still somewhat resemble a triangle.

One way to control vibration is to add weight to the barrel, which soaks up the impulses. The heavy barrel on the Target Rifle works together with the harmonic dampener to reduce the amplitude of the arc, making bullet exit, and therefore point of impact downrange, more consistent. Different loads, of course, can produce different amounts of vibration, and the ability to adjust the harmonic dampener allows the shooter to tune the barrel to obtain the best accuracy with any given ammunition.

A beefy barrel does not a target rifle make, so Ruger continued overhauling the Mini-14 by giving it a stock eminently suited for shooting from the bench. The thumbhole buttstock has a large, triangular-shaped cutout just behind the pistol grip that not only lets the thumb encircle the pistol grip, but also provides a stable shelf on which its fleshy base can rest. Along with the slight swell to the pistol grip, the design promotes a steady, repeatable hold. The stock’s high, slim comb rises slightly at the heel and digs into the cheek for a tight weld. So it will nestle solidly into a sandbag, the toe is rather thin and parallels the comb for 3 inches. The stock’s lower line then curves dramatically upward before running forward to the pistol grip, forming a hook for the non-shooting hand to press against and keep the rifle firmly settled on the bench. Three removable, black plastic spacers just forward of the rubber buttpad let shooters adjust the stock’s length of pull from 14 to 15 1⁄2 inches in 1⁄2-inch increments. In keeping with the theme of the Target Rifle, Ruger gave the fore-end a 2-inch-wide flat spot to make it easy to rest the gun on sandbags or hold in an offhand position. The stock is constructed of a gray laminate that complements both the stainless finish of the rifle’s metal and the black handguard.

A Mini-14 that will shoot minute of angle? I, too, was skeptical. But to give the Target Rifle a fair chance, I topped it with a Sightron SII Big Sky 4.5-14×42 mm scope and waited for a calm day to test Ruger’s claim. I picked the 55-grain soft-point load from Black Hills to start. The first several groups from the 100-yard line were around 2 1⁄2 inches—pretty much what I expected from a Mini-14 and certainly nothing to write home about. Then I began playing with the position of the harmonic dampener and shot as many holes in the criticisms of this autoloader’s accuracy as I did targets. With this particular load, the rifle liked the forward end of the harmonic dampener to be positioned about 3⁄4 inch behind the muzzle. Thusly tuned, it produced five, five-shot groups that averaged 1.03 inches. Pretty dang close, and two of those groups measured inside the minute-of-angle standard. I tried several other loads, including some with match bullets weighing between 69 and 75 grains, but none of them delivered the accuracy of my first pick. The runner-up was the 50-grain Winchester Supreme Ballistic Silvertip load, which averaged 1.10 inches after 25 shots. Perhaps with a little more tweaking I could find the harmonic dampener’s sweet spot with these other loads and shave a little from their group sizes.

True to the nature of the Mini-14, I experienced no failures to feed or fire during testing, and that was during approximately 400 rounds of 12 ammunition types over three days. No complaints there, but I did have an issue with the Target Rifle’s trigger. At 5 1⁄2 pounds of pull weight, it’s quite heavy for a rifle intended for target work, and I had to squeeze through a lengthy amount of creep. Nonetheless, I learned to live with it, and from the factory the Target Rifle performed as advertised.

The Mini-14 is rarely described as being pinpoint accurate, and in fact, until now it was never made to be. With some modifications, Ruger has turned this ubiquitous truck gun into a rifle ideally suited for chewing out bullseyes. I’d call the Mini-14 Target Rifle accurate any day.

A hunter draws back, settles the pin, but sends the arrow over the buck’s back. Perhaps he jumped the string? Another hunter does the same, but this time the arrow sinks underneath the belly. Chances are, you’ve missed a deer before, too. And if you haven’t, I hate to burst this delusion, but you certainly will if you hunt long enough.

So, what if you miss with that first arrow? Sometimes you get a follow-up shot. Other times you don’t. Here are next steps for either outcomes.

Reasons Hunters Miss a Buck

Hunters miss deer every season. In fact, I’d like to know the miss-to-hit and wounded-to-dead ratios, but we’ll never get an accurate bead on that. Still, these mishaps happen — a lot. There are many reasons why, including the following:

• Rushing the shot process.
• The deer was too far.
• The deer was too close.
• The pins or crosshairs weren’t visible.
• Using the wrong pin or crosshair hold.
• Ignoring the fundamentals.
• Using poor shooting mechanics.
• Equipment malfunctioned.
• The vitals were obscured.
• The angle wasn’t good.
• A limb or other obstacle got in the way.
• The deer was moving.
• The deer jumped the string.
• Buck fever struck again.

Regardless of which reason occurs, it shouldn’t. All of these are common excuses for missing deer, but none of these should happen. It’s crucial to take the necessary steps to overcome each one. Still, even the best hunters miss and wound deer. So, here’s what to do when it happens.

If You Miss and Get a Follow-Up Shot

Hunters oftentimes think it’s over if you miss a deer. That isn’t true. Second shot opportunities are more common than you might think. If you miss a buck, and it presents another opportunity — be it 10 seconds later or 30 minutes later — you have to be ready for it.

If it happens quickly, carefully nock another arrow, draw back, settle the pin, and let it fly. It’s good to keep your quiver within easy reach. Or pull a backup arrow out and place it somewhere that’s quickly and safely accessible.

If You Miss and Don’t Get a Follow-Up Shot

Get down and check for blood. Sometimes, it can be a hit and you don’t realize it. Once a clean miss is determined, keep hunting. Sometimes, the deer might return. Whitetails are curious animals. It might just give you another chance the same day. And the odds of getting another shot in the days to come are possible, too. Furthermore, you might see another deer you’re interested in.

If You Wound and Get a Follow-Up Shot

Always try to take a follow-up shot on wounded deer. Even if the first shot was perfect, and the deer is certain to die, take another shot if you get the chance. Doing so will likely expire the deer even sooner and makes the hunt that much more humane. Of course, if the shot was bad, taking a follow-up opportunity can mean the difference in killing it or not, and recovering it or not.

If You Wound and Don’t Get a Follow-Up Shot

The trickiest scenario is if you wound a buck and don’t get a follow-up shot. That’s when things get more difficult.

• With a liver hit, wait five to six hours before attempting to recover the deer.
• With a paunch (gut) shot, give the deer 10-12 hours, if conditions allow.
• Shoulder shots are tricky and may or may not be a mortal wound. If not likely mortal, blood trail immediately in hopes of getting another shot. If it is likely mortal, give the deer a few hours.
• Ham hits produce one of two outcomes. Either the buck bleeds out very quickly, or it lives to tell the tale. Either way, begin the blood trail immediately in hopes of another shot opportunity.
• Leg hits are not immediately mortal but tend to set up infection over time. Blood trail immediately in hopes of catching up to the deer for another shot opportunity.
• Spine shots aren’t usually lethal on their own. Go to the deer and finish it with another shot.

There are other bad shots hunters can make, but the above are the most common. Nonetheless, exhaust all options to recover wounded game. Oftentimes, where legal, that might even require hiring a blood-trailing dog, or even recruiting other people to help grid search for the deer.

Beat Buck Fever

It’s always best to make the first shot count. Do that, and you don’t have to worry about missing. But buck fever, and other common causes of missing, are difficult to overcome. Of course, you never want to “cure” buck fever. If that goes away, you’ve lost the excitement for hunting. But it is necessary to manage buck fever. Do that, and you keep the excitement and overcome the challenges it can present. To manage it, do the following things:

• Follow a practice regimen. This helps to get you ready for the real deal. Consider shooting at 3D big buck targets and do other things that simulate real big buck encounters.
• Hunt small game. Making good shots on live critters will help boost confidence once it’s time to make the shot on a big deer.
• Don’t hold your breath. This limits the oxygen in your system. Breathe before, throughout, and after the shot process. This will help lead to a better shot.
• Quit looking at the rack. Distract yourself if the sight of the buck is too much. Rather than staring at the deer, observe it through squinted eyes until time to shoot. Better yet, stare at the spot you’re going to aim at when shooting.
• Envision yourself making a great shot. Visualize it in your mind. That will help lead to a good hit.
• Be aware. See everything around you. Avoid hitting limbs and other things in the way.
• Pick a small spot to aim at. Rather than aiming “behind the shoulder,” consider aiming at a specific hair in the crease behind the shoulder.
• Follow your shot regimen. You’ve been practicing it for a reason. Use proper mechanics and follow through.
• Gain experience. There’s no better teacher, and no better way to overcome buck fever. Keep after it, and you’ll eventually find the success you’re looking for.

Overall, it’s important to accept a missed or wounded deer. It happened. Spend a few hours drowning in your misery, and then move on. Those who continue to sulk don’t improve. They wither. Instead, learn from mistakes, make necessary adjustments, improve as a bowhunter, and continue to do your thing.

Common Q&As

There are numerous questions that surround the topic of missed and wounded bucks. These are the answers to some of those questions.

Q: Does a deer’s body language help to determine the shot location?

A: Yes, it certainly can. Studying how a deer responded can indicate where the broadhead or bullet struck the arrow. For example, a deer that runs a short distance, then stops, and hunches up, oftentimes is hit in the paunch region. In contrast, a heart-shot deer usually mule kicks and runs very hard.

Q: How long do you wait before searching for a deer?

A: This varies based on the shot location. If you don’t see the deer fall, wait the appropriate timeframe. Heart-shot deer can be blood trailed within 30 minutes, double-lung-shot deer within an hour, liver-hit within 5-6 hours, paunch-shot (gut-shot) within 12 hours, etc.

Q: Will a non-mortally-wounded deer come back to the area it was shot in?

A: It might or might not. Some deer do return, although it might take a few minutes, hours, days, weeks, or months to do so. Other deer never return at all.

Q: Should I notch my tag on a lost deer?

A: This depends on legalities. Some states and situations require this, but most do not require it. In the instance that it isn’t required, this is a matter of personal ethics.

Q: How do I get over missing a big buck?

A: Continue hunting. Get back out there. But practice and prepare more than you ever have before. Generally, we create our own luck by setting ourselves up for success or failure.

In this article, we will discuss the best freshwater fish to eat and why they are so good for you. We’ll also cover some of the health risks associated with eating certain types of fish, and provide tips on how to select fresh fish at the grocery store.

There are a few types of fish that remain at the top of the list among fish enthusiasts’ list of favorites. However, some of them might be hard to locate and obtain. But that’s no reason not to try them, as those fish species are truly some of the most highly recommended freshwater fish for eating.

Best Freshwater Fish for Eating

Here, we’d like to talk about a few of our absolute favorite tasty freshwater fish and provide some practical advice on why they are the best freshwater fish for eating.

Salmon

Salmon is a well-known fish among many fish lovers. Salmon may be cooked in many ways and is actually one of the fish types you can find easily no matter where you are.

There’s a good chance that your local fish market or grocery store offers many types of salmon from which you can choose easily. And you can make a variety of meals with salmon and serve them to your friends and family.

Salmon is an anadromous fish, meaning it moves from freshwater, to saltwater, and returns for reproduction purposes. In many areas of the world, there are landlocked salmon that live their entire lives in freshwater, so salmon is considered both a freshwater and saltwater fish.

There are many ways you can eat salmon. It can be baked, roasted, fried, or even grilled.

Salmon works well even now in an air fryer. This adds diversity to a straightforward fish. It has plenty of Omega-3-rich fatty acids as well which is really good for your health overall.

Salmon has a moderate flavor, so you will not get any significant fish-type flavor, which is why it is often enjoyed by those with little experience consuming fish.

Trout

The well-liked freshwater fish, trout, is easy to prepare and has a delicious flavor.

There are several types of trout that are often consumed:

Rainbow trout, brown trout, cutthroat trout, brook trout (not technically a trout, but widely included in this group), lake trout, and other species of trout.

Roasted trout is one of the best trout dishes there is. However, it also tastes great when fried or grilled. Just make sure that you cut the trout into tiny chunks if you decide to fry it.

We recommend some brown rice and maybe some steaming or vegetables on the side when you’re ready to serve the trout. If you are camping, it is easy to place trout in some foil over a fire and have an incredibly meal while camping.

Pike

Another really tasty freshwater fish to cross off your list is the pike. Due to their preference for chilly water, they are more prevalent in northern states and regions.

As opposed to the majority of the other fish we’ve discussed here, you should expect a slightly fishy flavor from this fish.

The majority of people, however, use flavorful seasonings and inventive recipes to mask the fishiness. The fishy flavor will appeal to seafood lovers. When it comes to cooking pike, you may relish its rich flavors and flaky meat, so it’s quite adaptable.

Baking is the most typical method of preparing pike. The results from broiling or grilling these fish are rather good. A word of caution with pike: it’s bony, which means you want to take a bit of extra care when cleaning and eating. This is a fish where some local fish and wildlife may suggest not eating them based on water conditions.

Bluegill

Bluegill can be an exquisite choice if it is obtained in the proper environment. Bluegills are known for being some of the best tasting warm water fish species, but they taste can differ based on environment quite a bit. Bluegill in cold water vs hot water, in a lake, vs a pond, vs a river can all have some different flavors. This can make for some fun variation and experimenting.

Bluegill is most often fried, or cooked whole. Bluegill are small fish almost always less than 12 inches long, with a mild taste, firm meat, and it does not have a fishy taste.

Bass

Since the bass typically has a mild flavor, you can cook it pretty much however you like and still have a delicious meal.

Similar to bluegill, bass can have a slight note of sweet flavor. Although they don’t taste particularly fishy, you will detect some can detect a fishy flavor to them. Bass is such a commonly targeted sport fish, that is generally overlooked as a fish to consume, but in some regions, you’ll find this as a very common fish to eat.

Crappie

People who just love spending time fishing in the nearby river or pond frequently catch this species of fish. They are considered one of the easiest fish species to catch, which makes them a great fish to target for beginners or family.

Crappie have a mild and sweet flavor. The texture of the meat is flaky but firm, which some people find to be similar to lobster or crab.

While you can fry crappie, many fishermen will say that baking or grilling provides the best flavor.

There are many different ways to enjoy freshwater fish. These are just a few of the most common and best-tasting options that you’ll find.

Freshwater Drum

This fish is a bit of an acquired taste for some because it can have a muddy flavor.

This flavor is not present in all freshwater drums, however. If you catch one from clean water, you will be pleasantly surprised by its delicate and mild taste. The texture of its meat is also quite firm.

If you have never had freshwater drum before, baking is probably the best way to prepare it and get a feel for its flavor. You could also fry it or grill it if you’re feeling adventurous.

Catfish

Catfish is an extremely common and delicious freshwater fish to eat.

When it comes to taste, a smaller to medium-sized catfish is preferable, especially if you are worried about fishy flavors. The smaller the fish, the milder the taste will be.

There are many different ways to cook catfish. One popular way is to fry it, but you could also bake it, or even grill it.

No matter how you choose to prepare it, be sure to remove the skin and any dark meat before cooking as this can make the taste quite strong.

Perch

Perch is a mild-tasting fish that is popular among fishermen and seafood-lovers alike. It has a delicate flavor with firm, white flesh.

One of the best things about perch is that it can be cooked in many different ways and still taste great.

Cusk

Cusk is a freshwater fish that is lesser known but definitely worth trying.

This type of fish is frequently compared to cod, haddock, or pollock because they have a very similar taste and appearance. They are whitefish with rather large flakes. They also have a moist texture and a delicate flavor which makes them perfect for people who are not fans of fishy tastes.

Cusk is a great option for people who want to try something new but don’t want to stray too far from what they’re used to. It is versatile and can be used in many different recipes.

If you want to try cusk, it is best to baked, grilled, or poached.

Final Thoughts

There are many different freshwater fish to choose from if you want to add fish to your diet. These are just some of the best options available. Not only are these fish best for eating, but you can also try different recipes and have an amazing lunch or dinner with your family and friends.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do Fish From Freshwater Have Parasites?

Fish in freshwater are parasitized by a variety of cestodes (tapeworms) as well as trematodes (flukes). However, one tapeworm is Ligula, which has various life stages that are parasitic on fish, crustaceans, and birds in order. In most cases, fully cooking fish prevents the passing of any parasites.

Can You Acquire Worms Via Fish Consumption?

When a person consumes fish that is infected with the worm Diphyllobothrium latum, such as undercooked or raw fish, they may become infected with fish tapeworms. They key is to fully cook your fish. Fish tapeworm is the most frequently used name for the worm. This particular species of tapeworm develops in raw fish-eating big animals and small aquatic organisms as victims. This generally can be fixed easily without long lasting effects.

What Types Of Freshwater Fish Are Unsafe To Eat?

Do some research on the best freshwater fish in your area to find out what’s available and what would be the best option for you and your family. Some local areas have populations of fish that may not be safe to consume, or contain contaminants that can be harmful to your health. A simple search on the local fish and wildlife organization will likely supply you with all the needed information.

It is not uncommon for useful technical improvements in one arena to be adopted by and integrated into another. Materials and manufacturing processes originally devised for the aerospace industry are now commonly used to manufacture firearms. Pistol optics and triggers that began as competition upgrades have become standard options for many defensive handguns. Features developed for precision, benchrest-style rifles are being incorporated into bolt-actions suitable for harvesting big game.

In 2021, Winchester Repeating Arms introduced the Long Range MB version of the Model 70 as a contribution to the growing extended-range hunting rifle market. The features are configured to balance top-end accuracy and recoil management without the rifle being too heavy to be carried comfortably in the field. This Model 70 is available in eight short-action chamberings ranging from .22-250 Rem. to .300 WSM. The rifle tested for this review was chambered for the popular, flat-shooting 6.5 mm Creedmoor, which tends to generate only moderate levels of felt recoil.

The right-hand Model 70 Long Range MB sports the popular Pre-’64-type claw extractor with controlled-round feeding. One benefit of the design is that it locks onto the cartridge rim in order to properly align the cartridge with the chamber, thereby reducing the chances of bullet tip damage. The extractor also makes withdrawing the cartridge from the chamber more positive.

The bolt body is treated to a handsome jeweled finish, and the bolt knob features a knurled band to improve control. Of course, the assembly is fitted with Winchester’s classic three-position safety. In addition to the typical Fire and Safe modes, the lever has a central position that locks the firing pin while allowing the bolt to be cycled—a feature intended to provide added safety when checking the state of the chamber or when unloading the rifle.

The carbon steel of the Model 70 receiver and barrel are treated with a non-reflective, matte-blue finish. The top of the receiver is drilled and tapped to accept optic mounts. The 24″-long, free-floated barrel has a fluted light varmint contour, and a recessed target crown works to protect the rifling from being damaged at the muzzle.

The MB in this rifle’s name stands for muzzle brake; the end of the barrel is threaded 5/8×24 TPI to accept a variety of popular accessories, including sound suppressors, compensators and muzzle brakes. The rifle is fitted at the factory with a 2.5″-long removable muzzle brake contoured and finished to match the barrel. A knurled thread protector is also provided for those who wish to shoot without a muzzle device installed.

This rifle has Winchester’s MOA trigger group, which is marketed as having “triple zero advantages,” including zero take-up, trigger creep or overtravel. The trigger tested lived up to these claims; a smooth-faced, curved steel trigger exhibited an exceptionally clean trigger pull of 3 lbs., 15 ozs., with a short arc of travel and a crisp break with no overtravel. For those who prefer a single-stage trigger, this one deserves consideration. It is protected by a rounded aluminum trigger guard. A hinged steel floorplate supports an internal four-round magazine that is loaded through the ejection port.

Once again, Winchester has teamed up with Bell and Carlson to outfit this rifle with a well-made, weather-resistant composite stock. Using a proprietary molding system and a blend of fibers, resins and polyurethane reinforcement, the Extreme Weather stock maintains its shape in cold and hot environments. At the heart of the stock is an aluminum bedding block extending from the grip to the front sling-swivel stud for a firm, stable lock-up between the rifle’s action and stock.

The Model 70 Long Range MB’s composite stock is tan with a drizzled black “spider web” paint job to break up its outline. A set of flow-through cooling vents are cut into the fore-end that has a wide, comfortable gripping surface with a flat bottom for improved stability when shooting off sandbags. The grip has molded-in checkering to give the shooting hand added purchase. The shoulder stock is capped with a soft, textured rubber Pachmayr Decelerator recoil pad with a length of pull measuring 13.5″.

Our sample proved to be utterly reliable on the range, operating smoothly without any mechanical or ammunition-related issues. The fit and finish were top-notch throughout, with the bolt assembly and controls cycling smoothly. The composite stock provides reliable gripping surfaces with a more solid feel than an injection-molded polymer stock. The rifle balanced nicely with an easy heft that simplified standing shots.

The rifle was test-fired with the factory muzzle brake installed. As expected, the brake noticeably increases the volume of the rifle’s report, but, in conjunction with the recoil pad and the 6.5 mm Creedmoor cartridge, it made for moderate levels of felt recoil comfortable to work with in and out of a benchrest. Formal benchrested accuracy testing was conducted using factory match-grade loads fired at 100 yards. Groups were shot with a Leupold Mark 3HD 3-9X 40 mm optic secured by a Leupold scope mount ring set.

Winchester lists this rifle as being capable of one-m.o.a. accuracy, or approximately 1″ at 100 yards. This rifle did print a smallest single group of 0.87″, with a five-group average of 1.01″, using Winchester’s USA Ready load topped with a 125-grain OTM bullet. The average extreme spread across all three loads fired was 1.21″.

When attempting to blend two different types of platforms, finding a recipe that works can be tricky. In the case of Winchester’s Model 70 Long Range MB, however, the preferred elements of a hunting rifle mix with features that allow it to comfortably ride the bench for extended-range shooting sessions. This is a well-thought-out rifle with a variety of upgrades that make it stand out from the bolt-action rifle crowd—but it’s the MOA trigger system that unifies this rifle’s features and makes it an excellent option for those in the market for a firearm that fills a variety of shooting roles.

I haven’t taken all of Canada’s upland game bird species with my bow—yet—but I’ve arrowed plenty of willow ptarmigan and grouse, and most recently Hungarian partridge.

In the process, I’ve learned that success depends on how well you understand the birds you’re targeting, what equipment you use and, most importantly, being ready to seize the opportunities. Here’s what you need to know to start bowhunting for upland birds.

BIRD BEHAVIOUR

Whenever you’re big-game hunting, stay alert for ruffed, spruce and even blue grouse. In areas where they’re unpressured, they’ll often hold, allowing you to move in close for a shot. Similarly, on the tundra and in the mountains, willow and rock ptarmigan will typically exhibit little fear of humans, again allowing you to move into range. Ten- to 20-metre shots are typical with these sporting birds. By comparison, quail, chukar, Hungarian partridge, sharp-tailed grouse and pheasant are more flighty, making them all the more challenging.

SPECIALIZED GEAR

If you’re bowhunting birds on the ground, just about any standard fletched hunting arrow will suffice. If you plan to shoot birds in flight, however, you’ll want to specialize your equipment.

Being able to slow down your arrows so they travel a shorter distance will make the recovery of your arrow and downed quarry that much easier. For this, you need to shoot Flu Flus, arrows fletched with larger diameter feathers (typically four inches wide). Basically, Flu Flus come out of your bow at full force, but the tall feathers create drag to quickly slow them down. They are available for carbon and aluminum shafts suitable for shooting out of compound and traditional bows, as well as for wooden shafts made for longbows and recurves.

From a compound bow, a Flu Flu may fly as far as 75 metres before slowing down. Out of a traditional bow, on the other hand, it may slow down after 25 metres. My favourite all-around Flu Flu arrow is a 5/16-inch diameter Easton Traditional Only 600-spine carbon shaft with four fletches. You can also build your own Flu Flu arrows using TrueFlight’s Spiral Wrap Flu-Flu Cut Feathers, which are easy to wrap.

Both compound and traditional bows work fine for upland birds, but the tips you choose should be specific to the type of hunting you plan to do. My favourite tip for birds on the ground is a 100-grain G5 Small Game Head. A Zwickey Judo Point also works very well. Go with either 100-grain screw-in tips for carbon arrows or 135-grain glue-on tips for traditional wooden shafts. Judo tips have small-diameter, spring-loaded arms to inflict damage, but the arms also serve to snag grass and dirt to quickly stop the arrow. Other options include variations of rubber tips, such as Bludgeon Screw-In Blunts for carbon arrows.

Some bowhunters who target pheasants and other upland species on the wing will opt to use a larger diameter tip, such as a Snaro Screw-In Bird Point. Its flat nose delivers a killing shock, while the four-hoop design increases the odds of success by tangling up in the bird’s wings. Made for all carbon and aluminum arrows, it comes with either a three- or six-inch wingspan.

TECHNIQUE

Sneaking up on some upland birds on the ground isn’t too difficult. You just need to be able to gauge when you’re close enough to take the shot, but not so close that you flush the bird. Shooting birds in the air is a different story, however.

If you’re using a compound bow, you’ll want to draw and ready yourself for the flush. With a traditional bow, it really depends on your shooting style; instinctive shooters tend to find it easier to shoot moving targets. As with shotgunning, it’s about learning how much to lead the bird, and determining how long to delay in aiming and releasing. You also need to accommodate for arrow speed. All this can be frustrating to master, but it becomes easier the more you do it.

With that in mind, it pays to practise a lot before you hunt. From a safe spot off to the side, have a friend stand 20 metres away and toss a foam target up in the air to simulate a flushing bird. Eventually, you’ll sort out the timing, aiming and lead to make the shot—and be ready for the real thing.