LAST UPDATED: May 1st, 2015

So you just shot a buck on the fifth day of a seven day solo hunt in the backcountry, and you’re 6.5 miles from your truck. Now what? Well, unless you can find some horses running around…you’re probably going to need to get your buck broken down and start to burn some boot leather packing it out on your back. The old motto “releasing the arrow is the easy part, the real work begins after you get an animal down” couldn’t be more true. An ideal situation would be to have a friend help you take care of the meat and pack an animal out. However, sometimes you have to get creative and dig deep when doing it solo.

Before you get in this situation, you should plan ahead and before trying to tackle this task. Believe me…nothing is worse than experimenting on quartering out and/or de-boning an animal in below freezing weather conditions without the proper gear to get the job done. You want to get that animal properly broken down while taking the required steps to get all of the meat removed….all while doing it efficiently. Getting your meat ready to pack out in a timely manner, while minimizing contact with debris on the ground, will help ensure that you have tasty steaks for the dinner table.

There are many advantages to packing out your bow kill. However, there are just as many pitfalls to the process if you don’t know what you’re doing.

Packing out your own animal is all about knowing your physical limitations. Don’t try to bite off too much if you are not adequately prepared to pack a large animal like a bull elk out of the mountains solo during the early part of September. We all owe it to ourselves to get the meat out as quickly as possible. When in doubt, try to contact a few friends to help you pack meat, even if it means hiking to get cell service or heading back to your truck and driving to town.

Equipment NeededGear choices for packing out an animal are sort of like gear choices for setting up a new bow. There are a lot of options for each type of person. Personally, I have found the following items make the job easier on myself and have proven to work great throughout my bowhunting career. When it comes to knives, I prefer to carry the lightest knife for preparing my trophy in the field since I will be carrying this knife each day. You do not want to carry a heavy saw or giant knife in your pack if you don’t need to; just like all of your backpacking gear, you want it to be as light as possible yet still get the job done. The less weight you have in your pack, the harder you can hunt…the harder you hunt…the more successful you can be. (shop for backpacks)

The right game bag can make hauling your meat easier, as well as keep it cool, while also keeping your backpack clean of blood and odor.

I’ll be the first to admit…I don’t like carrying the extra weight of game bags in my backpack each day I hunt. But, I am hunting and therefore expecting to kill something, and even though I love the experience of the hunt, I am not just taking my bow out for a walk. It is for this reason that I pack game bags each day I am hunting, no matter if it’s a daytrip for antelope, a weeklong hunt for elk where I am moving camp each night, or a weekend mule deer hunt where I am headed back to the same tent location each night. Game bags prevent your hard earned meat from getting contaminated from a variety of sources such as dirt, sticks, and insects. I just keep thinking in my mind how miserable it would be if I didn’t have game bags with me when I make a kill. Like the old saying goes, “I’d rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.” It’s also a great idea to pack garbage bags if hunting during the hot early season, to give you more options for preventing your meat from spoiling. Placing your meat in garbage bags and then placing them in a stream will ensure they stay cool while you pack the rest of your meat.

Game BagsI have used a lot of different brands and materials of game bags over the years, and I think I have finally found the perfect system for my style of hunting. Cotton has fairly decent breathability, but it doesn’t hold blood well, is difficult to reuse after washing due to staining and odor retention, and it tears easily. Canvas game bags are too heavy for most situations where you are backpacking them in. These would be a great option if you’re hunting from a horse. I prefer a light-weight, breathable, synthetic game bag, as it seems to solve these problems. I rarely get blood on the inside of my pack, they don’t retain odors after washing, and they are extremely lightweight. One thing to look at with synthetic game bags is breathability- make sure if you’re hunting a long distance from your vehicle that your game bags allow your meat to cool. The worst thing would be a game bag that keeps the heat in. Those types of bags might be the lightest weight, but they sacrifice the most important reason for a game bag in my opinion. Not having breathability will potentially spoil your hard earned meat.

A good knife it vital to “post-shot” success. The right one will be lightweight and sharp as a razor.

Cut It And Cool ItA person can quarter or de-bone an entire animal with just one knife and without using a heavy saw. I prefer to use a lightweight knife that has replaceable surgical blades. In total my knife and extra blades weigh just a few ounces. This system eliminates having to carry the weight of a sharpening stone each day. I do carry a small multi-tool that works perfectly for cutting branches out of the way before you start to break down your animal. For example, this past fall (2012) my mule deer buck lodged into some trees and pinned his rack in some branches when he collapsed. Having a small multi-tool saved me some heavy lifting as I was able to cut the branches away freeing my buck to slide down the steep slope to a small flat bench where I could work break him down. (backpack videos)

One important part about packing out your own game is how you will store your meat once you get back to your truck. For this reason I always bring along a cooler that I will place my first load of meat into while I make multiple trips for the rest of the meat. You do not want your meat sitting in the back of your truck all day, since that’s an invitation for insects and/or other animals to chew on it. If you’re in very rugged terrain, it is a good idea to pack trekking poles or leave a set at your truck that you can grab after your first load. They will provide some support for your body and help balance the weight when you’re putting on the miles with a heavy pack.

If you have to leave meat behind, find a place that will keep it cool and out of the hands of bears, insects, or other predators that may move in and steal your hard-earned trophy.

TacticsIf the animal is within your comfortable carrying distance, then you can probably get by with quartering your animal and leaving the meat on the bone. I used to quarter and pack all animals that I shot because I didn’t want to take the time in the field to de-bone it. Well…after packing a bunch of animals through the years, I finally said I had enough, and now I de-bone everything. De-boning an animal makes your pack weigh a lot less, makes it easier to fit multiple game bags full of meat in your pack, and it helps cool your meat down faster.

Small-framed animals such as antelope don’t necessarily require a complete “d-boning” process. Instead, many can be quartered and hauled back to the truck.

The Right Way To Pack ItI place my de-boned hindquarters in one game bag each and do the same for the front shoulders. All the rest of the meat (backstraps, tenderloins, neck, brisket, etc.) will get divided into the front shoulder bags. You will soon find out there is a proper way to pack meat out in a backpack and a way that will hurt your body. Place all your meat as close to your back as possible in your backpack, but keep it off the bottom of your pack for balance reasons. Nothing is more uncomfortable than having a heavy object strapped to the outside of your pack that will pull your body backwards or to the side. (choosing the right pack)

When I have gear with me on the first pack out, I will place all my extra clothes in the bottom of my pack with my sleeping bag. The rest of my gear (tent, food, etc.) will get distributed to the outside pockets to make room for the meat inside of the pack. If you’re concerned about getting a little blood on the inside of your pack then it will be useful to place your de-boned meat in a garbage bag. Some packs have load slings that enable the bag to move away from the frame, allowing the meat to be placed right next to your back, while still enabling your gear to be placed inside your backpack. I really love this design for comfort reasons and ease of carrying my gear out on the first trip.

You may have a good backpack, but if it isn’t loaded correctly, the load will wear you down fast; possibly even injure you.

It is also very important that you utilize your compression straps on the outside of your pack. Nothing is more frustrating than hiking out with a heavy load of meat and a big buck rack on the outside of your back and having the rack bounce up and down or the meat falling around in the backpack. It will wear you out in a hurry…trust me on this one. Don’t ever try to stand and lift the pack up to your shoulders either. For one…it will hurt and two it has the potential to tear your shoulder straps by forcing all the weight to that one area. Instead, before I load the meat in my pack, I will place my pack near a spot that allows me to sit down on a bench and slip the shoulder straps on and get my waist belt buckled. Then I just need to lean forward and stand up. If that is not an option in the area you shot your animal, then I would suggest sitting down and getting your pack strapped on and do those same steps, but before you try to stand, roll onto your hands and knees facing uphill and then push yourself off the ground. Once standing, you will be able to adjust the shoulder straps, sternum strap, and waist belt. (backpack forum)

With a Polycarbonate Frame, AirTrack Suspension, and 4700 cubic inches in carrying capacity, the all-new Badlands Summit is designed to handle any load you can through at it.

The best advice I was ever given was don’t pack out what you are not going to use or consume. If I know I am not going to mount the buck, I will remove the entire hide from the skull and start to remove some of the meat from it as well. Also, I will remove the lower jaw because I have never found a need for it. I usually do a skull mount of most of my average bucks, but if you really want to lighten more of your pack out weight, then you can cut the skull plate in half below the antlers.

Backpack ConsiderationsHaving a pack that can handle the extra weight of meat plus gear is something to take into consideration before your hunt. You cannot place a heavy load in a pack that isn’t designed for that function. Lightweight packs may be great for ease of hunting, but most of the time they lack the comfort and adjustability of a do-it-all type pack. I am a huge fan of a pack that I can use for a week long hunt, and if I harvest an animal I can use that same pack to haul meat out. I am not easy on my backpacks- to me they are a tool to haul weight and haul it comfortably. So I will use my same pack for hunting as well as getting my hard earned protein to the table.

Another great option if you don’t want to get your nice backpack a little dirty or if it cannot handle the weight, is to have an external frame meat pack waiting for you at the truck. This way you could process your animal in the field, hang the meat in a shaded tree to cool, and then hike back to your vehicle to retrieve your meat hauling pack. It comes down to personal preferences and whether or not you’re willing to burn more miles going to get a different pack. Personally, I follow the “less trips mentality, so I chose a backpack that can do anything I ask of it.

Closing TipsI always keep my knife and tags in the same pocket on my pack. That way I have peace of mind knowing that I won’t lose them or dig through all my gear after I make a kill to find them. For attaching your tags to your trophy, keep it simple and use electrical tape. I always bring along a short section just for tags, since you don’t need a full roll of extra weight. If you shot anything larger than a deer such as an elk or a moose and you need to make multiple trips, make sure you place your meat high in a tree away from the reach of bears.

The end goal is memories on the wall, and a freezer full of healthy venison. Take the right approach and this will be an easily achievable goal.

Also for multiple trips, ensure your meat will be in the shade most of the time while you are packing the first few loads of meat and select a location with ample breeze to further cool the meat while you are away. Another great option for keeping your meat safe from insects or bacteria is using a mixture of citric acid powder and water. Citric acid will slow bacteria growth and prevent flies from trying to get through your game bag. This would be a great option for the solo hunter who is chasing elk deep in the backcountry. Finally, always be cautious while cutting up meat and returning to meat hanging in a tree in bear country….you never know what could be waiting when you return.

A figure 4 deadfall trap is one of the easiest primitive traps, and all you really need is a few sticks, a sharp knife, and bait.

There’s no cordage or complicated snare knots, just the simple tension of a few sticks holding a big rock in position, just waiting for the right animal to trigger it.

In its simplest form, a figure 4 trap starts with just three sticks, each about 8 inches long and 1 1/2 inches in diameter. From there, each stick can be carved into a simple tension deadfall trap that comes together without any cordage or snares.

The weight of the rock pushes down on the sticks, and if the notches are crafted right, this creates tension that holds the whole deadfall trap together. It’s a precarious balance though, and all it takes is the tiniest touch on the baited end and the whole structure comes crashing down…ideally mashing your prey.

Figure four traps are wonderful if you live in an area with an abundance of large, flat-ish rocks like my home in Vermont. These types of deadfall traps are best suited to small game, such as squirrels or possibly raccoon if you find (and can move) a big enough stone.

How to Make a Figure 4 Trap

I’m starting with three pieces of dry white pine, split like kindling. The straight grain makes carving much easier, but really any branch you can find in the woods will work.

This deadfall trap has three pieces, and for simplicity, I’ll refer to them as the vertical piece, diagonal piece and trigger piece. I’ve added a 4th piece to extend the trigger deeper under the rock and lashed it together with a bit of twine, but that piece is unnecessary I found.

The vertical piece is the easiest to carve, so start there. It’s basically just a stick with a pointed end. The point isn’t carved on all sides, just two of the faces, so it comes to a long linear point at one end.

The base end remains flat because that’s going to rest on the ground, or more specifically, another flat rock placed on the ground. Otherwise, the heavy rock pressing down on top would just drive it into the ground like a stake. Even a small-ish flat rock, maybe 4” in diameter prevents this, and also makes it easier to set the trap with a flat surface as a work area.

Here’s the vertical piece set into the figure 4 trap. All it needs to do is hook into the notch on the diagonal piece.

One more important thing to note about this first piece…the sides need to be squared off. This is important, as you’ll see later, since it allows the trigger piece to hook onto this stick.

Carving the Diagonal Piece

Next up is the diagonal piece, which is a bit more complicated, and has carved portions on both ends. The top comes to a rounded point where it will support the rock, and underneath it has a small notch for holding the vertical stick in place.

Start by rounding off the top end, and then notching into the stick about 2 inches below that. The notch should have a bit of a hook to it, which will help keep the vertical piece in place when they’re connected.

Carve the bottom of that same stick into a point, working just two sides so you have a long seam to hook into the 3rd piece (trigger piece).

Here’s what the diagonal piece should look like when finished:

Carving the Deadfall Trap Trigger

The final piece is the trigger stick or the horizontal piece in the figure 4 trap. This piece is the most complex because it needs to support the diagonal piece and hook onto the vertical piece. It hooks onto the side of the vertical piece, which is what creates the trigger tension.

Downward force from the weight of the rock above is pressuring the diagonal piece and trying to pull the trigger piece backward. It’s notched and hooked around the vertical piece, which is what holds the whole deadfall trap together until it’s tripped.

As I mentioned earlier, the vertical piece needs to be squared off so that the trigger piece can hook onto it. This is why…

Start by carving a notch at the back of the stick for the diagonal piece to rest against to tension the trap. Be sure to leave enough wood at the end that it won’t break out at the end when under stress. About an inch should do.

This notch should fit nicely into the bottom of your diagonal stick, and hook it in there with a bit of tension. Test the shape against your diagonal stick. This is the first of 3 different carved sections on the trigger stick.

Next, go to the other end and carve it into a narrow point to hold the bait. In my case, I’m using peanut butter, and more practically in the woods you might be using a tiny piece of meat or fruit and you’d need a sharp point to stick it to the trigger stick.

This is the most open-ended part of the whole trap, and really you can make it look like just about anything you’d like. Something small, so the animal has to nudge it a bit when they try to take the bait works best.

I could also imagine an alternate configuration where this trigger end is just a thin shelf to support some kind of seed or nut. It really depends on the bait you’re using, and how you want to dangle it out there.

Once you have that notch and the trigger point finished, place the pieces in figure 4 position to figure out where the side trip notch needs to be placed. This will vary a bit, based on the size of your wood and how you’ve carved the notches up to this point, but it should be about half way up the side of the trigger stick.

Carve the trigger notch out square so that the trigger stick hooks around the vertical stick. The finished trigger stick should look like this:

When I made this, I was concerned that my trigger stick was too short. As you can see, the side notch is about 2/3rds down the side of my stick and there’s not much trigger past the vertical stick on the figure 4.

I took another stick and lashed it together to extend the trigger further under the rock. In hindsight, that was completely unnecessary and the short trigger would work just as well.

I had a particularly long rock, so this trigger extension really gets the bait far underneath it. That’s totally optional, and actually limits the prey I can catch by putting the bait in a very small space.

A shorter trigger might mean catching something like a raccoon, but this long trigger placed far under limits the trap a bit. Luckily, I was targeting a tiny red squirrel that the best squirrel traps I could find hadn’t yet managed to catch. He was fun to watch, but when he took up residence inside the ceiling of my house we had to make other arrangements.

Be careful, of course, to check any local restrictions on trapping if you plan to deploy your deadfall trap. Also be aware that the trap will crush anything that trips it…including children, pets or toes.

If you do catch small game, try out any of these squirrel recipes. We really enjoyed traditional Brunswick stew, and country fried squirrel with gravy is a great breakfast.

All in all, the whole deadfall trap took me about half an hour to carve, sitting at the picnic table in our yard while the kids played nearby with their Tonka trucks. I don’t have a smartphone you see, so that means I get fun project time anytime the kids are self-entertaining. This, I can tell you, was a much more satisfying way to spend a few quiet minutes than scrolling Instagram.

It was a fun skill to practice, long in advance of being in a wilderness survival situation where I needed to harvest food with minimal equipment. Even lacking a knife, this trap could be made by carving with a sharp rock. It’d take a lot longer, but you could make it happen if you had to.

For me, it’s nice to know I have that skill under my belt, and now I’m looking forward to learning other types of traps.

More Bushcraft Skills

Looking for more bushcraft skills tutorials? Read on my friends…

• How to Clean & Gut a Groundhog
• How to Clean a Squirrel in Under a Minute
• Making Fatwax (Animal Fat Salve)
• How to Render Squirrel Fat (for Cookies!)
• How to Process Soil into Clay for Pottery
• How to Make Primitive Arrows

There have been many different beaver trapping sets used throughout the years that work really well.

Most are simple and straight forward since beaver are rarely trap-shy.

Four types of traps are commonly used for trapping beavers.

They are the #3 or #4 long spring, coil springs like the Bridger #5 or the MB-750, the 330 conibear and the snare.

When setting leg holds for beaver, try to place them in the water.

Look for a spot where the beaver enters or exits, and set the trap about six inches or so deep under the water.

You may miss a few beavers setting this deep, but you will have fewer sprung traps and fewer front leg pull-outs or twist-off’s than setting just below the surface.

When a beaver swims up to the shore, many times its chest will spring a trap that’s been set too shallow.

If you set it deeper, you can get a good solid rear foot catch.

A conibear trap should be set and braced solidly so it won’t be accidentally knocked over instead of making a catch.

Guide sticks are usually a good idea to funnel the beaver through the trap.

Snares can be set under water or on dry land.

I prefer dry land sets since they always seem to get pushed out of position when I put them in the water.

On dry land a 10”-12” loop set 2” or 3” off the ground will catch most beaver.

One drawback to snares is hide damage.

I haven’t seen one yet that doesn’t leave a ring mark on the hide when you skin it.

Some fur buyers don’t seem to care but I know at least one of mine docked me for that mark.

Anchoring Your Traps

Beavers can twist off a front foot just like a muskrat, so you don’t want to stake a beaver trap down on dry land.

If you have the time and resources, you can put in a drowning wire so the beaver slides down the wire into deep water to drown.

An “L” shaped lock will keep the trap from sliding back up the line.

Use heavy gauged wire or cable that’s staked down near your set location.

Attach the other end to a heavy weight or sack of rocks.

A cement block works really well, the only disadvantage is carrying the heavy weight with you on the trapline.

Instead of cable you can also use a drowning rod which is basically a 10 foot long piece of metal rod that’s driven into the deep water on one end and staked down with a T stake on the other end near your set location.

The trap slides on the bar just like it would on the wire but the drowning rod has a few advantages.

First, you don’t have to carry the heavy cement block with you through the woods and second the rods won’t kink like the wire will, allowing you to use it time and time again.

A disadvantage would be carrying the 10 foot long piece of steel rod with you through the swamp.

Another option is to wire a leg hold to a large log that the beaver can move, kind of like using a drag in coyote trapping.

You might think the beaver would chew through the log and escape but they are usually drowned in deep water or tangled up nearby.

I have lost exactly one trap in all the years I have trapped like this.

Conibears should be wired to something solid, just in case the dying throes of the beaver move it to deep water where you wouldn’t be able to find it.

Den Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

The simplest of all is the den set.

Simply set a conibear in the den entrance (where legal) and you will most likely connect.

Most lodges in open water will have 2 entrances.

Some lodges built partially on land may only have one entrance. Place a 330 conibear at each entrance.

Beavers can den up in a river bank like muskrats or more commonly build a hut or lodge out in the pond they create.

Many huts will have areas that show where the beavers come out of the water and sit on the hut.

This is another good set location especially if you can’t locate the den entrance for some reason.

You will have a higher chance of catching kits in this type of set, but I have caught kits almost 100 yards from huts before.

Castor Mound Set – Beaver Trapping Sets

The castor mound set or scent mound set is a productive springtime set.

In the spring beavers are in a mating mood and they will scoop up mud, twigs and leaves from the bottom of the pond to build a small mound on the bank and then put their scent on it to try to attract a mate.

It should be pretty obvious where the beaver are traveling to and from these little mounds.

If the conditions are right, you can put a conibear in a run or usually set a leg hold in the slide where they exit the water.

Dam Run Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

I have read of other beaver trappers cautioning about setting dam runs for various reasons. Setting the dam run is my favorite set location.

Where I trap, this is a sure-fire place the beavers will be traveling from one pond to another.

In my area, any active beaver pond will have a well worn trail over the dam heading down into the outlet stream.

A leg hold set in the pond side water leading up to the trail is a good set. A snare suspended half way down is another.

If you can legally set a conibear on dry land, this trail is a wonderful place for it.

Any other run or trail that looks like the beaver are using is a good place for a set, either on dry ground or runs in the water.

Baited Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

If you have a difficult time finding a good natural set location you can try baiting the beaver into your set.

A small pile of fresh partially peeled sticks from the trees the beaver are using for food may draw them into your set.

This beaver trapping set works best when food is on the scarce side or right before freeze up when the beavers are trying to stash their winter supply of food.

Overall – Beaver Trapping Sets

You can get fancy and experiment with your beaver trapping sets or you can stick with the basics and just keep it simple.

For me, the easy to construct sets listed above have worked great in a variety of different locations.

Whether you choose to use one set or try them all, I hope you enjoy beaver trapping as much as I do.

Quick thought exercise. What’s the first thing that comes to mind when you hear the words “Italian shotgun?” I’d wager most of us would think of a fine Silver Pigeon from Beretta, a gold-medal-winning Perazzi competition gun or the Benelli M4. As a general rule, “affordable” isn’t a descriptor attached to any of these. Even Beretta’s superlative 1301 semi-automatic shotgun runs well into the $1,500s. However, the company has recently lowered the barrier to entry in the Italian-shotgun market in a big way with its A300 Ultima Patrol shotgun.

How low, you might ask? It’s less than semi-automatic shotguns from Mossberg, Winchester and Savage, that’s how low. To find a more affordable semi-automatic shotgun would involve Turkish imports, and while there is absolutely nothing wrong with Turkish firearms, they aren’t Italian. Yes, I may be a tad biased. To be fair, though, the A300 Ultima Patrol isn’t exactly Italian—while it’s an Italian design, it’s made here in the U.S. So, it’s Italian-American, like me. Maybe that’s why I like it so much. However, there’s something to be said for Beretta’s literal 500-year history (in just a few years, the company will have 500 documented years in the firearm-making business). Lastly, the 1301 is pretty much the zenith of semi-automatic, defensive-shotgun design, and while the A300 Ultima Patrol is slightly different, the shared heritage lends significant gravitas to its pedigree. One doesn’t expect a car from Ferrari to be slow, and one doesn’t expect a firearm from Beretta to be deficient.

What are the differences between the 1301 and the A300? That’s a great question, and we reached out to the folks at Beretta for the answer. Dina Sanders, brand marketing manager, tactical for Beretta USA, explained, “The largest difference between the 1301 and the A300 Ultima Patrol is the use of the BLINK gas and bolt system in the 1301, this rotating head bolt system is faster, absorbs more recoil and has fewer parts and so is less likely to fail over time than the bolt system used in the A300 Patrol which uses an older bolt design. In addition the 1301 is made in Italy and the A300 family is made here in the U.S.”

A300 shotguns have been in Beretta’s sporting line for quite some time, so bringing a tactical version into that space made sense. Sanders mentioned, “We expanded the A300 line into the defensive space based on customer requests for an American-made, mid-price point gun to compete with other inertia-driven platforms. Beretta USA gathered feedback from customers of the 1301 and studied trends in the 3-gun space to deliver to customers an ultra-reliable, defensive shotgun with a suite of features serious shotgun users want. When building these guns in America, we are free to incorporate these changes without needing to sacrifice to import restrictions. We believe with the launch of the A300 Ultima Patrol, Beretta now has two amazing, feature-rich platforms at several price points for customers to choose between.”

While the two shotguns do have some differences (in addition to the operating systems, the A300 has a slightly longer barrel), they share quite a bit of their footprint as well. Both have ghost-ring sights, a rail for optics, M-Lok attachment points on the fore-end, QD sling attachment points and oversize controls. From an aesthetic standpoint, the 1301 has a more “finished” look for lack of a better term; however, aesthetics are in the eye of the beholder, and there are plenty who will view the cost-savings of the A300 as an incredibly attractive thing, indeed. The price difference, in excess of $400, will allow for lots of practice ammo, for one thing.

I want to put aside the price point and obvious comparison to Beretta’s other defensive shotgun for a moment, though. The A300 Ultima Patrol is a fantastic shotgun independent of both of these factors. The ergonomics are nothing short of amazing—the gun points extremely well, the areas where one grips the stock and fore-end are aggressively textured to firmly anchor it in the hand and M-Lok slots for lights or lasers are positioned where right- or left-handed shooters will be able to instinctively find them. Prefer a high hold with the support hand? Put your light in the top M-Lok slot on the magazine-support bracket. Not so high? Use the slot on the side of the fore-end itself. Heck, if you want to pretend it’s 2003 and you want a vertical fore-grip, there’s even a slot at the bottom-front of the fore-end for that. Even if you don’t want to add anything, it’s well-designed.

This thoughtful engineering carries over into the little things, too. While the A300 Ultima Patrol only comes with one choke tube (Improved Cylinder), it uses the Beretta Mobil Choke system which offers up a whole world of options should one wish to change constriction. Two separate spacers can change the length-of-pull to better fit the A300 to the shooter. There’s even a small piece of loop backing with adhesive that is custom-cut to match the left side of the receiver, so you can add a shell card of your choosing to keep more rounds on your A300 (and see our Shotgun column, page 36, for more on this topic). All controls are oversize, easy to actuate and intuitive; whether you’re taking the safety off as the sights come on target, releasing the bolt with the massive bolt release or pulling the bolt handle rearward to show clear, there’s no mistaking any of the controls.

Beretta lists the furniture as simply “synthetic,” and it’s here that you start to get a glimpse of some of the differences between the 1301 and the A300 Ultima Patrol. There’s certainly nothing wrong with the synthetic furniture of the A300, mind you; it’s just, well, “plasticky” for lack of a better word. This isn’t an artisanal polymer here, it’s just plain ol’ plastic. Again, for a utilitarian shotgun that’s supposed to serve for home defense under any condition, this is a plus rather than a minus—it’s not a gorgeous walnut that you’ll kick yourself for marring should the gun fall over and bounce off the ground. Besides, I’m wagering that this will be a big hit in the defensive community, and it wouldn’t surprise me in the least to see some of the Big Dogs (Magpul, looking at you here) come out with some upgraded components. In any case, though, what’s on the A300 is perfectly fine.

When it comes to heft, I honestly don’t know what kind of dark magic Beretta used on the A300 Ultima Patrol. The shotgun weighs 7 pounds, 2 ounces, but it felt significantly lighter than that. While I would never fire it that way, I found I could hold it with one hand for more than a few seconds, something I can’t say about my 590 or 870. Guess we know where the “Patrol” part of the name comes into play. Now, granted, this may mean a little more felt recoil when shooting slugs or 00 buckshot, but there are plenty of tips and tricks you can use to mitigate that when practicing. You can work on your stance and utilize the “push-pull” method to help with the recoil, but lightening a shotgun while still leaving it functional can be a wee bit more difficult.

Light weight and felt recoil aside, there’s another aspect to the A300 Ultima Patrol to address, though: the texture. While the aggressive nature of the pistol grip and fore-end will really help anchor the shotgun in your hand while shooting, should you opt for an extended range session or training class, it’s going to do a number on your hands. For anything more than a short practice session, it would be worthwhile to invest in a good pair of gloves to wear when shooting for longer periods. Again, this is by no means a knock on the A300; it’s a balancing act for any firearm to walk the fine line between too heavy to effectively carry for any length of time and too light to shoot more than a handful of rounds. Whether you’re talking about a miniscule semi-auto pistol, an ultralightweight .308 rifle or a shotgun, all have to obey the laws of physics. Be prepared, have the right gear and you will have a better experience all around.

On the range, no surprises were to be found, and that’s exactly what one expects of a Beretta shotgun. A mixture of birdshot, buckshot and slugs was tested in the A300 Ultima Patrol, with everything from light No. 8 birdshot to 3-inch 00 buckshot went through the paces. A handful of slugs were tested just to get an idea of what those were like in this lightweight shotgun (hint: ouch), but for everything that was tested, the A300 ran like a champ. Our Managing Editor, Digital, Kevin Creighton, also had a chance to run a different A300 Ultima Patrol at the shotgun’s launch, and he, too, was impressed with how the A300 ran, stating, “The shotgun made it easy to handle the recoil from the various loads we used for demonstration purposes at the event.”

One critical thing I like to test on any shotgun I review is the pattern. Since the A300 Ultima Patrol is intended for home defense, knowing how popular 00 buckshot will pattern at various distances such as one would be likely to find inside the home is absolutely critical. Yes, you can miss with a shotgun. Shotguns do need to be aimed, and you absolutely need to know the maximum distance where all—repeat, all—of the pellets will land inside a roughly bad-guy-size target. Given the improved cylinder choke tube installed in the A300, I found that Federal Personal Defense 00 buckshot (2 3/4-inch, 9 pellet) yielded a 3-inch pattern at 5 yards, 4.5-inch at 10 yards and 7.5-inch at 15 yards. At 20 yards, pellets were starting to exit the 15-inch wide target, so I switched to Hornady 300-grain FTX slugs, which gave a 2.5-inch group at 20 yards. Interestingly, though, while the 00 buckshot was dead center through the irons, the slugs were slightly high and right. Not a knock on the Beretta, just a note to test everything you’re going to use extensively.

Other than patterning a defensive shotgun, finding a load that it prefers is also critical. Now, I’m not about to wade into the debate opened up by my esteemed colleague Bryce Towsley over whether a semi-auto shotgun is preferable to a pump (I’m agnostic, which is a polite way of saying “far too chicken to stick my neck out on this area of contention”). However, I will note that it’s a great idea to test any semi-automatic firearm with a decent variety of defensive and practice ammunition. It used to be far more common that pretty much every semi-auto out there would have its secret likes and dislikes, but even now in this seeming golden age, it’s better to trust but verify. Before you stock up on a pallet of THUNDERSTICK500 home-defense 00 buckshot, make sure it cycles the action every single time. In the case of the A300 and the admittedly small amount of 12-gauge ammo I put through it, it worked without fail with everything that went in. In testing, just shy of 100 rounds of 00 buckshot and 75 rounds of various birdshot fed, fired and ejected without fail. I’ll bestow my highest compliment on the A300 Ultima Patrol: it was boring. It just plain worked.

What’s the bottom line on the Beretta A300 Ultima Patrol? Well, if you’re in the market for a semi-automatic shotgun for home defense, it’s an excellent choice. It’s the least-expensive way possible to get yourself a Beretta shotgun, at least new, that I can find (I’m certain someone out there can find one cheaper, and I’m sure we’ll hear about it when they do). The A300 works well, has superlative ergonomics, is easy to shoot and comfortable to carry for a day’s worth of training. Not bad for an Italian-American shotgun; not at all. I mean, from the time of the great Christopher Columbus, to the time of Enrico Fermi, right up to the present day, Italian-Americans have been pioneers in building and defending our nation. They are the salt of the earth, and one of the backbones of this country. The Beretta A300 Ultima Patrol carries on that legacy with aplomb.

Bullwinkle deer disease is a chronic wasting disease that affects members of the deer family, including mule deer, white-tailed deer, and elk. It was first discovered in the late 1970s in Colorado and has since spread to other regions of North America.

This disease has caused significant concern among wildlife managers and researchers due to its potential impact on wildlife populations. In this article, we will discuss the causes, symptoms, and management of bullwinkle deer disease.

Cause

Bullwinkle deer disease is caused by prions, which are abnormal proteins that can cause other proteins to misfold and aggregate in the brain and other tissues. These aggregates, also known as amyloid plaques, cause neurological damage and eventually lead to death. Prions are highly resistant to traditional sterilization methods and can remain in the environment for many years, making it difficult to control the spread of the disease.

Significance

Bullwinkle deer disease is a significant concern for wildlife managers and researchers due to its impact on deer and elk populations. The disease is fatal and has no cure, and once it becomes established in a population, it can spread rapidly. In addition to the potential ecological impacts, bullwinkle deer disease also has economic impacts. Hunting is an important industry in many regions of North America, and the presence of the disease can lead to reduced hunting opportunities and decreased revenue.

Species Affected

Bullwinkle deer disease affects members of the deer family, including mule deer, white-tailed deer, and elk. The disease has been documented in many states in the United States, as well as in several Canadian provinces.

Distribution

Bullwinkle deer disease has been documented in many states in the United States, including Colorado, Wyoming, Montana, and Wisconsin, as well as several Canadian provinces. The disease appears to be spreading and has been detected in new areas in recent years.

Transmission

Bullwinkle deer disease is primarily transmitted through direct contact with infected animals or contaminated environments. Prions shed in the bodily fluids of infected animals can contaminate the environment, and other animals can become infected by ingesting contaminated food or water. The disease can also be transmitted through indirect contact, such as through contaminated hunting equipment or carcasses.

Clinical Signs

The clinical signs of bullwinkle deer disease can vary depending on the severity of the infection. In mild cases, infected deer may not display any visible symptoms. However, in severe cases, the disease can cause significant damage to the nervous system, resulting in a range of neurological symptoms.

Affected deer may appear disoriented and have difficulty walking or standing. They may also exhibit head tremors, droopy ears, and an inability to coordinate their movements. Some infected deer may display abnormal behavior such as circling, lethargy, and unresponsiveness to stimuli. In some cases, deer may also develop a drooping lower lip, a condition known as “lip paralysis.”

As the disease progresses, infected deer may also experience weight loss, dehydration, and an overall decline in health. In some cases, the disease can be fatal, particularly in young deer and those with weakened immune systems.

It is important to note that the clinical signs of bullwinkle deer disease can be similar to those of other neurological conditions, and a definitive diagnosis can only be made through laboratory testing.

Diagnosis

Diagnosis of bullwinkle deer disease typically involves the examination of brain tissue from infected animals. Postmortem examination of the brain can reveal the presence of amyloid plaques, which are characteristic of the disease. In some cases, live animal testing can also be used to detect the presence of the disease, although this method is less reliable than postmortem examination.

Treatment

There is no known cure for bullwinkle deer disease, and infected animals will eventually die from the disease. Management strategies are focused on reducing the spread of the disease and minimizing its impact on wildlife populations.

Management

There are currently no effective treatments for bullwinkle deer syndrome. However, there are steps that can be taken to reduce the likelihood of the disease spreading to healthy populations.

Preventative measures include minimizing contact between infected and uninfected deer populations, removing infected individuals from the population, and increasing surveillance efforts to detect new cases. The use of feeding stations, where deer congregate in large numbers, should be avoided, as this increases the risk of disease transmission.

Hunting and culling infected individuals may be necessary in certain situations, but it is important to take into account the potential impact on the overall population before implementing such measures.

Additionally, it is important to educate the public, particularly hunters, about the risks of spreading the disease through the transport of infected deer carcasses. Hunters should be encouraged to dispose of carcasses in designated areas and to avoid moving potentially infected animals from one location to another.

Overall, a comprehensive management approach that includes surveillance, prevention, and education is necessary to effectively control the spread of bullwinkle deer syndrome and protect deer populations from this devastating disease.

Conclusion

Bullwinkle deer is a serious disease affecting elk and other members of the deer family, caused by the parasitic worm Parelaphostrongylus tenuis. The disease is prevalent in regions with high populations of white-tailed deer and is often associated with wetlands and marshy areas.

Bullwinkle deer can cause significant neurological damage to infected animals, leading to severe physical disabilities and sometimes death. It is crucial for wildlife managers and researchers to identify and monitor infected animals to prevent the spread of the disease and to better understand its impact on elk and other deer populations.

Although there is no known cure for bullwinkle deer, early diagnosis and management can improve an infected animal’s chance of survival. Research efforts should focus on understanding the disease’s ecology, transmission, and potential long-term impacts on wildlife populations.

As humans continue to encroach on natural habitats and modify the landscape, it is crucial to understand and address the impacts of diseases like bullwinkle deer on wildlife populations. Through effective management and research efforts, we can work towards mitigating the disease’s impact and ensuring the health and survival of elk and other members of the deer family.

Sources:

1. Foreyt, W. J. (1985). Parelaphostrongylus tenuis: epidemiology of infection in elk and deer in the Pacific Northwest. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 21(4), 381-390.
2. Gibbs, E. P. (1976). Parelaphostrongylus tenuis infection in wapiti (Cervus elaphus nelsoni) and roosevelt elk (Cervus elaphus roosevelti) in western North America. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 12(1), 49-57.
3. Rosatte, R. C., & Pybus, M. J. (1978). The biology and control of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis in North America. Advances in Parasitology, 16, 213-274.
4. Severson, N. R., & Skorping, A. (2005). Effects of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis on fitness components of white-tailed deer. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 41(2), 271-277.
5. Zarnke, R. L., & Ver Hoef, J. M. (1989). Ecological and epidemiological studies of Parelaphostrongylus tenuis in southcentral Alaska. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 25(1), 101-107.

Further Reading:

1. Foreyt, W. J. (2001). Parasitism in elk and deer in North America. Journal of Wildlife Diseases, 37(3), 519-530.
2. Kutz, S. J., & Hoberg, E. P. (2014). Parasites in ungulates of Arctic North America and Greenland: a view of contemporary diversity, ecology, and impact in a world under change. Advances in Parasitology, 85, 429-686.
3. Pybus, M. J., Samuel, W. M., & Kocan, A. A. (2001). Parasitic diseases of wild mammals. Iowa State University Press.
4. Additional reading available on https://www.northeastwildlife.org

By Paul Carlson

I’m probably not telling you anything that you don’t already know, but shooting handguns is fun. Do you want to take that fun to the next level? Then shooting them with slide-mounted red dot optics is the answer, and the reason is simple — it’s easier to get hits.

Today, I’m reviewing the new HEX Dragonfly optic that can make shooting easier than using traditional “notch and post” sighting systems. Regardless of your stance on the red dot vs. iron sights argument, we know that getting hits is the key to really enjoying a shooting session.

The popularity of slide-mounted red dots isn’t just some random phenomenon. Instead, it has been based on a consistent improvement in technology and innovation over the years, as well as an understanding of the shooting issues people may face. As a result, it seems that dots are everywhere these days, and there are some very good reasons why. In this article, we are going to be looking at the Dragonfly. But first, let’s consider why you might need a red dot optic.

The Why

Regardless of the sight radius of your gun, using a red dot on your pistol can help you shoot with more precision and accuracy, especially at distance. A moderately sized dot, say around 3.5 MOA, allows you to refine your aiming point and repeatedly put rounds on a small area of the target. At the same time, you are provided with feedback on the movement of your gun by the dot on the optic’s window before you even press the trigger. That feedback generates a faster learning curve when it comes to getting hits at distance.

And when it comes to getting hits, being able to use a refined aiming point is always an advantage. But, depending on lighting conditions, sometimes it can be hard to pick up your iron sights. That’s not the case with an electronic red dot optic. Red dots, especially either with manual brightness settings for fine-tuning or auto-adjusting ones that react to ambient light on their own, make it easier to aim regardless of the lighting conditions.

Another major advantage of a red dot is the ability to “target focus,” which allows you to focus on your target rather than your sights. The principle is simple enough. The sight’s emitter projects a dot onto a glass lens that’s right on top of your handgun slide. Despite the fact that the projected dot is just a couple of feet away from your eyes, your brain imagines that the dot is at the same distance as your target.

With a red dot, you never have to shift your focus from the sight to the target, or conversely from the target to the sight. Just look at your target, and the dot will be superimposed right where you need it. This applies to the red dot both on a pistol as noted, or also on a long gun.

All the Buzz?

So, let’s get back to that HEX optic I mentioned. The red dot is the HEX Dragonfly, and it’s a standard-sized red dot electronic optic designed with full-sized handguns as well as long guns in mind. Featuring the “Springfield Standard” footprint shared with the Vortex Venom and Burris FastFire, the Dragonfly is designed with durability and ease of use in mind.

Frankly, when I think of what’s important for an optic, reliability is at the top of the list. Life and death situations require solutions that are dependable, and the Dragonfly is designed with dependability in mind. The Dragonfly features a beefy housing that is machined from 6061 T6 aluminum, and it is thick. Topped off with Hardcoat anodizing, this optic is built to withstand the abuse of recoil and a whole host of hardships. And within this rugged housing is a scratch-resistant, anti-glare-coated glass lens for the 3.5 MOA red dot. Springfield’s choice of durable materials and coatings set the stage for the duty-ready nature of the Dragonfly.

Simple Choices

When it comes to ease of use, the Dragonfly has everything you need. The red dot ships with a Picatinny mount for attaching the optic to a long gun, and as mentioned uses the Springfield Standard footprint for mounting to handgun slides. To mount onto a pistol like the XD-M Elite, you simply mount a Springfield #1 plate to the pistol along with the included sealing plate and then mount the optic. Easy. Oh, and matching up with the optic’s durability is an IPX7 waterproof rating, meaning the optic can be submerged in water up to one meter for 30 minutes.

When it comes to using up the Dragonfly, it’s an easy process as well. The Dragonfly depends on a single button to control the emitter. One press turns the dot on to the lowest brightness setting. Each push cycles the dot’s brightness up through the eight different settings, and one more push turns the optic off.

All the functions are on a single button. It doesn’t get any easier than that.

The Dragonfly runs off of a single, bottom-loading CR2032 button battery that is included with the red dot. It’s a common cell, easy to find at your local store, and it lasts. The single battery will run for more than 100,000 hours (or three years according to the HEX website). To improve power consumption, the optic cycles off after 16 hours. When you turn your optic on, you select the brightness level. The Dragonfly remains at the brightness you chose until you change it or the optic turns off.

The Dragonfly’s housing features a hood that extends out in front of the glass lens. This serves as a shield to protect the glass from impacts and adds further protection for the lens if the optic’s face were to come into contact with anything. Finally, the rear of the housing is serrated to help reduce the glare, which helps the shooter focus on the dot.

Clearly, the HEX Dragonfly has an impressive feature set, especially when you consider that its MSRP is just $249.

HEX Dragonfly Specifications

Range Time

I had a chance to get some range time with the Dragonfly mounted on top of a Springfield Armory XD-M Elite Tactical OSP 4.5” 9mm as well as an XD-M Elite 3.8” Compact OSP 9mm, and it shot great on both. The Dragonfly was easy to track. On presentation, all it took was some intentional pressure from my pinkies, and the dot dropped into the window right where I wanted it. With each trigger press, the 3.5 MOA dot would lift and then drop right back to the point of aim.

Regarding adjustments, that single button is really the way to go when it comes to setting the brightness. No complicated button press combinations to remember to lock the brightness in. Simply set it and forget it.

Also, the Dragonfly has plenty of adjustments when it comes to windage and elevation. The sight features 160 MOA windage and elevation adjustments. I especially like that the clicks are audible and tactile, and they can be easily made with a 9mm case. I had the Dragonfly zeroed in no time, and it has remained zeroed since. Check out Gunspot’s article on how to sight in a red dot for a quick way to sight in your optic.

Conclusion

While there are plenty of red dot sights out there from which to choose, Springfield Armory’s HEX stands out. The Dragonfly is a very reasonably priced optic, but with premium build quality and features. I have no doubt that the Dragonfly will serve you well, whether you are mounting it on a handgun or a long gun. It can handle all the hard knocks you can throw at it on the range, at the match or in the field. If you have been wondering if a red dot belongs on your gun, the HEX Dragonfly certainly deserves a look.

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Missouri is a state with diverse landscapes, rich history, and abundant natural resources. It has over 44 million acres of land, of which about 60% is privately owned. But who are the largest landowners in Missouri, and what do they do with their land? In this article, we will reveal the top 10 landowners in Missouri and explore their backgrounds, interests, and impacts on the state.

Top 10 Landowners in Missouri

1. The State of Missouri

The largest landowner in Missouri is the state itself, which owns over 3 million acres of land. This includes state parks, conservation areas, historic sites, and other public lands. The state manages these lands for various purposes, such as recreation, education, wildlife protection, and natural resource conservation. Some of the most popular state-owned attractions in Missouri are the Gateway Arch National Park in St. Louis, the Mark Twain State Park in Florida, and the Katy Trail State Park that spans across the state.

2. The United States Government

The second-largest landowner in Missouri is the federal government, which owns over 1.4 million acres of land. This includes national forests, wildlife refuges, military bases, and other federal properties. The federal government administers these lands through various agencies, such as the U.S. Forest Service, the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, and the National Park Service. Some of the most notable federal lands in Missouri are the Ozark National Scenic Riverways, the Mark Twain National Forest, and the Fort Leonard Wood Military Reservation.

3. Missouri Department of Conservation

The third-largest landowner in Missouri is the Missouri Department of Conservation (MDC), which owns over 460,000 acres of land. The MDC is a state agency that was established in 1937 to restore and manage the state’s fish, forest, and wildlife resources. The MDC owns and operates conservation areas, nature centers, shooting ranges, fish hatcheries, and other facilities that provide opportunities for outdoor recreation, education, research, and wildlife management. Some of the most visited MDC properties are the Busch Wildlife Area in St. Charles County, the Runge Nature Center in Jefferson City, and the Shepherd of the Hills Fish Hatchery in Branson.

4. The Ted Turner Reserves

The fourth-largest landowner in Missouri is Ted Turner, a media mogul and philanthropist who owns over 149,000 acres of land in the state. Turner is the founder of CNN, TNT, TBS, and other cable networks. He is also a passionate environmentalist and conservationist who owns more than 2 million acres of land across the U.S., making him the second-largest individual landowner in the country. Turner’s properties in Missouri are part of his Ted Turner Reserves, a collection of luxury eco-tourism destinations that offer guests access to his private ranches and wildlife reserves. Some of his ranches in Missouri are the Bar K Ranch near West Plains, the Flying S Ranch near Salem, and the Osage Hills Ranch near Rolla.

5. The Ozark National Scenic Riverways

The fifth-largest landowner in Missouri is the National Park Service (NPS), which owns over 80,000 acres of land in the state2. The NPS is a federal agency that manages national parks and other natural and cultural heritage sites across the U.S. The NPS’s largest property in Missouri is the Ozark National Scenic Riverways (ONSR), which was established in 1964 as America’s first national park to protect a river system. The ONSR encompasses over 134 miles of the Current and Jacks Fork Rivers in southern Missouri, along with their surrounding forests, caves, springs, and historic sites. The ONSR attracts over one million visitors annually who enjoy activities such as canoeing, camping, fishing, hiking

6. The Weyerhaeuser Company

The sixth-largest landowner in Missouri is the Weyerhaeuser Company, a timber and forest products company that owns over 75,000 acres of land in the state. Weyerhaeuser is one of the world’s largest private owners of timberlands, with more than 24 million acres of land in the U.S. and Canada. Weyerhaeuser’s lands in Missouri are mainly located in the southeast region of the state, where it operates several mills and plants that produce lumber, plywood, oriented strand board, and other wood products. Weyerhaeuser also manages its lands for wildlife habitat, recreation, and conservation.

7. The Pioneer Forest

The seventh-largest landowner in Missouri is the Pioneer Forest, a privately owned forest that covers over 65,000 acres of land in the state. The Pioneer Forest is owned by the L-A-D Foundation, a non-profit organization that was founded in 1962 by Leo Drey, a businessman and conservationist who is considered to be the father of sustainable forestry in Missouri. The Pioneer Forest is managed according to the principles of natural forest management, which aim to preserve the ecological integrity, diversity, and productivity of the forest. The Pioneer Forest is open to the public for hiking, hunting, fishing, and other low-impact activities.

8. The Bass Pro Shops

The eighth-largest landowner in Missouri is Johnny Morris, the founder and CEO of Bass Pro Shops, a retail chain that specializes in outdoor gear and equipment. Morris owns over 50,000 acres of land in Missouri, most of which are part of his Big Cedar Lodge resort near Branson. Big Cedar Lodge is a premier destination for outdoor enthusiasts, offering a variety of accommodations, amenities, and attractions, such as golf courses, spas, museums, restaurants, and wildlife parks. Morris also owns Dogwood Canyon Nature Park, a 10,000-acre preserve that features trails, waterfalls, caves, and wildlife.

9. The University of Missouri

The ninth-largest landowner in Missouri is the University of Missouri (MU), which owns over 40,000 acres of land in the state. MU is a public research university that was founded in 1839 as the first public institution of higher education west of the Mississippi River. MU’s lands include its four campuses in Columbia, Kansas City, Rolla, and St. Louis, as well as its research farms, forests

10. The Missouri Botanical Garden

The tenth-largest landowner in Missouri is the Missouri Botanical Garden (MBG), which owns over 30,000 acres of land in the state. The MBG is a botanical research and education institution that was founded in 1859 by Henry Shaw, a wealthy businessman and philanthropist. The MBG’s main campus in St. Louis is one of the oldest and most beautiful botanical gardens in the world, featuring a variety of gardens, conservatories, and collections of plants from around the globe. The MBG also owns and manages several other properties in Missouri, such as the Shaw Nature Reserve in Gray Summit, the Sophia M. Sachs Butterfly House in Chesterfield, and the Commerce Bank Center for Science Education in St. Louis.

Conclusion

Missouri is a state with many large and influential landowners, who own and manage millions of acres of land for various purposes. Some of these landowners are public entities, such as the state and federal governments, the MDC, and the MU. Some are private individuals or organizations, such as Ted Turner, Johnny Morris, the L-A-D Foundation, and the MBG. Some are corporations or businesses, such as Weyerhaeuser and Bass Pro Shops. All of these landowners have a significant impact on the economy, environment, culture, and history of Missouri.

Most Asked Questions and Answers

Here are some of the most asked questions and answers about the top 10 landowners in Missouri:

Q: Who is the largest individual landowner in Missouri?

A: The largest individual landowner in Missouri is Ted Turner, who owns over 149,000 acres of land in the state.

Q: Who is the largest private landowner in Missouri?

A: The largest private landowner in Missouri is Weyerhaeuser, a timber and forest products company that owns over 75,000 acres of land in the state.

Q: Who is the largest public landowner in Missouri?

A: The largest public landowner in Missouri is the state itself, which owns over 3 million acres of land.

Q: How much land does Missouri have?

A: Missouri has over 44 million acres of land, of which about 60% is privately owned.

Q: How much land does the federal government own in Missouri?

A: The federal government owns over 1.4 million acres of land in Missouri.

Q: How much land does the state government own in Missouri?

A: The state government owns over 3 million acres of land in Missouri.

Q: How much land does the MDC own in Missouri?

A: The MDC owns over 460,000 acres of land in Missouri.

Q: How much land does Ted Turner own in Missouri?

A: Ted Turner owns over 149,000 acres of land in Missouri.

Q: How much land does Johnny Morris own in Missouri?

A: Johnny Morris owns over 50,000 acres of land in Missouri.

Q: How much land does the MBG own in Missouri?

A: The MBG owns over 30,000 acres of land in Missouri.

Did you know that bears have some of the strongest bites in the animal kingdom? While they don’t exactly rank at the top in terms of overall strength, their jaws can pack a serious punch.

So, which subspecies top the bear bite force scale? Who’s managed to sink their teeth into the title of the most powerful jaw? Let’s take a closer look at the six main contenders to find out.

Strongest Bear Bite Force

Before we get into details, you need to understand the basic measurement used to determine an animal’s bite force. It’s usually expressed in PSI, or pounds per square inch. This refers to the amount of pressure that the animal can exert with their teeth.

To give you some perspective, the human jaw can generate about 200 PSI of pressure. But when it comes to bears, the numbers are a whole lot more impressive.

Next, we’ll list six subspecies with a strongest bite force.

Polar Bear Bite Force

The polar bear’s claim to fame is its massive size. And when you’re that big, it’s no surprise that you’ve got an equally a powerful bite. These apex predators can weigh up to 1600 pounds and measure over ten feet in length—perfectly matching a bite force of 1200 PSI.

They store fat in their bodies to help them withstand the cold weather and survive for extended periods without food. And this extra weight gives them added strength, allowing them to take down prey that is much larger than they are. When they’re not chomping down on seal meat, polar bears also enjoy munching on berries, roots, and seaweed.

Despite their imposing strength, polar bears are actually quite gentle creatures. They’re known to playfully wrestle with each other and even interact with humans on occasion. But don’t be fooled by their friendly demeanor—if you get on their bad side, they won’t hesitate to show you just how dominant they really are.

Grizzly Bear Bite Force

The grizzly bear is the next contender on the list. These massive animals are found across North America and can weigh up to 1500 pounds. And while they’re not quite as large as polar bears, they more than make up for it with their ferocious appetite. The bite force of a grizzly bear rounds out to 1160 PSI, making it one of the strongest in the animal kingdom.

These bears have a diet that consists mostly of meat, but they’re also known to eat nuts and roots. Their jaw is designed for crushing bones and flesh, which comes in handy when they’re taking down their prey. And while they might look slow and sluggish, they can actually run at the speed of up to 35 miles per hour—making them one of the fastest land animals on the continent.

Unlike polar bears, grizzlies are not known for their friendly demeanor. In fact, they’re one of the most feared animals in North America. And with good reason—when they’re angry or provoked, they can be absolutely ferocious and take no prisoners. In fact, they’re the most aggressive bear species out there and they’re responsible for the majority of bear-related human fatalities.

Brown Bear Bite Force

This is the type of bear you’re probably most familiar with—they’re often featured in children’s stories and movies. But while they might look cute and cuddly, brown bears are actually quite dangerous. They weigh between 600 and 1500 pounds and have a bite force of 975 PSI.

Brown bears are found throughout North America, Europe, and Asia. Their widespread habitat is due to their ability to adapt to a variety of climates and ecosystems. Their fur helps keep them warm in cold weather and their long claws are perfect for digging up food. Their diet mainly consists of vegetation, but they will also eat fish, small mammals, and carrion.

While brown bears are typically introverted and elusive creatures, they are fiercely protective of their cubs. If they feel like their young are in danger, they will attack—even if that means taking on a human. After all, a mother’s love knows no bounds. And that’s something we can all admire, even if we don’t want to get too close to these giant animals.

American Black Bear Bite Force

The American black bear is the smallest of the three main types of bears found in North America. But don’t let their size fool you—they can still pack a powerful bite. These bears typically weigh between 250 and 600 pounds and have a bite force of 970 PSI.

While they’re not quite as large as grizzlies or polar bears, they more than make up for it with their agility. They can climb trees, swim swiftly, and run up to 30 miles per hour. They’re mostly herbivores, but they will also eat meat on occasion. And their diet consists of a variety of items, including fruits, nuts, roots, and insects.

American black bears are generally shy and timid creatures, which means they rarely interact with humans. But if they’re startled or feel threatened, they can be aggressive and even dangerous. Unless you’re a trained professional, it’s best to stay away from these bears and admire them from a distance.

Asiatic Black Bear Bite Force

The Asiatic black bear is found throughout Asia and is the smallest of the three main types of bears. Their bodies are smaller and more compact than their American and grizzly cousins, with slightly longer claws. And while they might be small, they still have a powerful bite—their jaws boast a force of 650 PSI.

For the most part, Asiatic black bears are herbivores. They’ll munch on fruits, nuts, and leaves, with their sturdy jaws crushing through even the toughest of vegetation. They will also eat meat if they’re starving, but it’s not their preferred food. These bears are also excellent swimmers and climbers, which helps them escape predators and find food in hard-to-reach places.

In general, Asiatic black bears withdraw from human contact and avoid confrontation. Interactions with other animals are also rare, as these bears tend to be solitary creatures. They are, however, close to their own families—mothers will stay with their cubs for up to three years to ensure they’re safe and well-fed.

Giant Panda Bite Force

Next up is the bite force of a bear that’s more likely to make you smile than scream—the giant panda. These adorable creatures are found in the mountains of central China, in mostly forested and bamboo-covered terrain. And while their diet consists mainly of bamboo, they’re still capable of delivering a powerful bite. Their jaws boast a force of 212 PSI.

Their fur is thick and woolly, which helps protect them from the cold. Their bodies are stout and compact, with short legs that make them look quite clumsy. But don’t let their appearance fool you—giant pandas are excellent climbers and can even swim fairly well.

These bears are generally gentle giants. They don’t feel the need to be aggressive and are content to live a peaceful life in the bamboo forests of China. However, they are still wild animals and should be treated with caution. After all, a giant panda’s bite may not be as strong as some of the other bears on this list, but it’s still powerful enough to cause some serious damage.

Key Takeaways

All in all, the specifics regarding the bear bite force depend on the type of bear in question. One thing is for sure though—you definitely wouldn’t want to get on the wrong side of any of these animals, whether they’re the cuddly giant panda or the dangerous grizzly bear.

The Remington Model Seven Rifle makes a nifty, thrifty, and swift little hunting set-up.

I squeezed off shot #3, and it made a tight cloverleaf on my target. And then I got nervous, knowing what had happened too many times before: three rounds downrange, a half-inch group, and then I start pulling shots.

I was testing the new Remington Model Seven rifle in the Mossy Oak Bottomland finish, topped with Trijicon’s new Huron 2.5-10×40 rifle scope. My ammunition for this phase of my shooting was Federal Premium Vital Shok .308 Win., launching a 168-grain Trophy Copper bullet. I shot from a rest at my outdoor range, my target set up at 100 yards.

Remington Model Seven Review

Shooting the Remington Model Seven

I opened the bolt on the rifle to let in the 20-degree Fahrenheit Wisconsin air, and took a short walk to ease my nerves. From there, I got back behind the rifle, did some slow breathing exercises, and took my next shot. It touched the holes left by the previous three bullets!

And Shot #5? I pulled it. A little. But the whole group still came in at just .97-inches, with my first four shots an outstanding .44-inches.

One accurate little rifle, I decided, this Model Seven Bottomland, and a great option for the hunter. Yet, the Model Seven is also a rifle line that’s generally been ignored.

A Gun Long In Production

Remington launched the Model Seven line in 1983. It was made and marketed as a more compact option to Remington’s flagship Model 700 bolt. It is roughly 2.5-inches shorter than a standard 700, and Remington sells some of these smallish rifles every year, keeps coming out with different versions.

Yet, I rarely see the rifle reviewed in the shooting and outdoor media. And, while it’s admittedly a small empirical sample, I do travel around the country rather extensively on hunts and shooting events; and, I have never seen someone with a Model Seven.

Model 700’s? All over the country.

However, if you hunt from a tree stand or an enclosed blind, need a gun for close-in hunting in thick country and/or want a nimble truck gun? You should take a serious look at a Model Seven Bottomland with its 16.5-inch barrel.

My Set-Up

For my shooting with the Model Seven Bottomland model, I also used .308 Win hunting ammunition from Dynamic Research Technologies (DRT) , with their 175-grain frangible bullet, and Hornady’s Full Boar firing a 165-grain GMX projectile.

I had no problem getting MOA and SUB-MOA groups with all three brands of ammunition—if I let the rifle cool a bit after the third shot. The slim-profile barrel of the Model Seven Bottomland heats up quickly, and when I fired off five shots too quickly, either (or both) shot #4 or #5 would go .5- to 1.0-inch wide.

On average, the Hornady came in right at 1.00-inch groups for five shots, the DRT at 1.15-inches, and the Federal at .90-inches. Each ammunition brand also pegged .5-inch groups of three and four shots within those five-shot strings.

The Model Seven features Remington’s own X-Mark Pro Trigger. The trigger can be externally adjusted from 3 to 5 pounds of trigger pull with a 1/16” Allen wrench. However, my Lyman Electronic Digital Trigger Pull Gauge measured the pull on my rifle at a crisp 2 pounds, 7 ounces.

Magazine, Stock, & Recoil

The Model Seven’s internal magazine holds four rounds and features a hinged floor plate. The barrel is factory threaded at 5/8”-24 for a suppressor or muzzle break; a Picatinny rail section mounted atop the receiver makes for easy optics mounting.

As noted, the synthetic stock is finished in Mossy Oak’s popular Bottomland camouflage pattern. Which may strike some as a little dark. But you certainly won’t have to worry about the stock catching the attention of a sharp-eyed deer.

The recoil on the Model Seven was rather snappy. Not a surprise for a rifle that weighs just six pounds, with a short barrel and chambered in .308 Win. The recoil was not terrible; but if I was buying this rifle for a younger shooter or someone a little recoil shy? I’d opt for the 6.5 Creedmoor or 300 BLK chambering, the other two calibers available for the model Seven Bottomland.

All in all? A first-rate and nicely compact hunting rifle.

SPECS: Remington Model Seven Bottomland

• Caliber as tested: .308 Win
• Barrel Length: 16 1/2″
• Twist Rate: 1:10, Right
• Barrel Material: Carbon Steel
• Threaded: 5/8”-24
• Magazine Capacity: 4
• Total Length: 34 1/4″
• Avg. Wt. (Lbs.): 6
• Length of Pull: 13 3/8”
• Drop (Comb): 1 ¼”
• Drop (Heel): 1 ½”
• Barrel Finish: Matte Black
• Stock Material: Synthetic
• Stock Finish: Mossy Oak Bottomland
• Misc.: Rail on Receiver, Push Tang Safety, Super Cell recoil pad.
• MSRP Under $800