The best crossbow broadhead for deer in 2024 is the Muzzy Trocar for its incomparable penetration and accuracy on large game.

Once so simple, choosing your crossbow broadhead has become far more complex over the past years, with the introduction of new technology to add more ‘functionality’ to the best crossbow broadheads available.

Choosing the right broadhead is a personal decision, not only depending on the shooting conditions (distance, wind), but also personal preference regarding desired penetration, accuracy, wound channel and blood trail.

You can only glean so much information online, so honestly, my best advice is to read the reviews, and then get out there and try the different broadheads until you find one that you love.

Our crossbow broadheads review covers the:

• NAP Spitfire Crossbow
• Swhacker 100-grain 2-inch-cut Mechanical Broadheads
• G5 Outdoors Montec Fixed-blade Broadheads
• Excalibur Boltcutter Fixed-blade Broadheads
• Muzzy Trocar Fixed-blade Broadheads

Best Crossbow Broadheads Features

First of all I’ve rounded up some definitions of terms you’ll hear often when talking about crossbow broadheads throughout the reviews:

Cutting diameter

It refers to the minimum potential wound size a broadhead can cause, or in other words the width measurement from blade tip edge to blade tip edge.

In theory a wider diameter has more chance of damaging important tissue and reaching vital organs, although there is a possible trade off with accuracy (more surface area for the wind to take hold) and penetration (less likely to enter the animal so far).

Shock collars

A small ring placed below the broadhead where it fixes to the arrow which a) keeps the broadhead steadily in place and b) absorbs shock upon impact in order to protect the broadhead.

Grain weight

Broadhead weight is measured in grains, and most will come in both 100-grain and 125-grain options, maybe even up to 150. I generally recommend the 100-grain for best accuracy over 20-50 yards, and the 125-150s for upwards of 50-60.

The 125-grain will also provide more penetration on bigger game, and given the shorter arrows used for crossbows, can provide more weight to the front of the arrow (“front-over-center” balance), maintaining stability and reducing cross-wind influence.

Blade Tip

There are two options here, either chisel-tips which are designed for a big impact on big game, with thick hides – fur, fat and bone. Or, you can opt for the cut-on-contact tip, which aims to slice immediately with deep penetration. See informative discussion here.

Number of blades

Broadheads generally come in one, two or three-blade variations. Arguably, the two-blade achieves better penetration, and the three-blade increases the wound channel. For this reason (but not always), you would do better with two-blades for bigger game to penetrate deep and split bone.

Honestly though, there are other more important factors such as where you hit the prey, with what force, cutting diameter, what type of broadhead, and at what angle.

Fixed-blade or mechanical

Fixed-blades are traditional arrowheads where the broadhead blade is firmly attached to the head. There are also some ‘removable’ fixed-blade broadheads which allow you to replace a single blade, rather than the whole broadhead.

Mechanical broadheads have retractable blades which come out on impact, making the arrow flight as uninterrupted and aerodynamic as possible.

Fixed-blade or mechanical crossbow broadheads: what should I use?

Up until recently I’d have said that the fixed-blade won hands down every time. However, the mechanical broadhead is becoming more and more effective, giving experienced hunters a headache when faced with the choice.

Although mechanical broadheads are good 90% of the time, I know few people that would opt for a mechanical broadhead when faced with that really tough, make or break shot to take down the biggest game – it’s just too unreliable.

That said, maybe this perception is changing little by little, so let’s look at the facts regarding fixed-blade and mechanical broadheads.

How do mechanical broadheads work?

When an arrow is flying through the air towards its target, the more surface area that the broadhead has, the more susceptible to influence from crosswinds it will be, taking it off-course.

Step up the mechanical broadhead.

The idea of a mechanical broadhead is to reduce the surface area of the broadhead and improve on aerodynamic drag, by retracting the blades until the moment of impact, upon which the blades deploy to further increase the damage.

If the blades are withdrawn during flight, this should also improve concentricity. Concentricity is essentially the arrow spinning perfectly through the air around its centre, ensuring that the mechanical blades don’t deploy while in the air, before impact.

Ideally an arrow is steered by its fletching at the back, however what’s known as planing can occur, where the wide-surface-area broadhead takes control of the arrow’s flight path, causing long-distance inefficiencies.

A mechanical broadhead is forgiving on beginner hunters or poorly tuned crossbows.

It sounds wonderful, however mechanical broadheads have their drawbacks. These mechanical heads have a tendency not to deploy, or may come apart upon impact, ultimately failing to penetrate sufficiently and leaving the animal in distress, or getting away.

Fixed-blade broadheads

What the fixed-blade makes up for is clinical impact, or in other words strength and penetration.

These days fixed-heads have excellent designs, which make them exceptionally aerodynamic to the point where they may even match mechanical broadheads, a lot of the time.

A question of quality

Mechanical broadheads generally fail for one of two reasons.

Either the blades do not retract, and therefore they remain exposed during the flight, subjecting the arrow to influence by the wind.

Or they malfunction on impact. A high-quality design uses high-quality mechanical blades which are better fixed to the broadhead, or may even be heat-treated so that they bend, instead of snapping off.

Making sure that the broadheads you purchase are made of steel instead of aluminium will help with concentricity, too.

Choosing the best crossbow broadheads for your crossbow

The best crossbow broadheads are designed with the following functions in mind:

Penetration

An arrow may kill in any one of the following ways:

• Blood loss
• Damage to the nervous system
• Destruction of vital organs
• Septicemia or asphyxiation

The further through an animal the projectile goes, the more likely the hunter to achieve their goal of an ethical kill.

Questions to ask yourself:

• How deep into the animal does your arrow seat itself?
• Does it go all the way through, causing faster bleeding and a faster, more ethical death?
• How does the crossbow broadhead contribute to that penetration?

Accuracy

Accuracy speaks for itself. we want to be accurate to not only hit our prey, but hit it exactly where we want to for an ethical kill.

Questions to ask yourself when reviewing the best crossbow broadheads:

• How well does the bolt and broadhead leave the crossbow?
• How many touch points are there with the crossbow which could alter its course on the way out?
• Does the broadhead’s form (surface area) make it more or less susceptible to influence by the conditions, such as wind or rain?
• Once the bolt leaves the crossbow, how does the broadhead affect the bolt’s concentricity? Does it spin more or less evenly for a true aim? Mechanical broadheads are particularly guilty of unbalancing an arrow.

Wound channel

Wound channel refers to the size of the channel made by the arrow, through the prey. An arrow kills in any one of the following ways:

• Blood loss
• Damage to the nervous system
• Destruction of vital organs
• Septicemia or asphyxiation

For an ethical kill, a large wound channel is more likely to achieve its goal. Does the crossbow broadhead help to achieve this?

Blood trail

More blood makes it easier to track game after you shoot them. The best designed crossbow broadheads, aside from causing a large wound channel, maintain heavy blood loss so as to track the animal easily.

• Best crossbow in 2024
• Fastest crossbow in 2024

Best Crossbow Broadhead in 2024 Reviews

The following best crossbow broadheads ratings are in no particular order, as the best depends on the game you are hunting, expected shooting distances and your experience.

NAP Spitfire Crossbow Review

Use on: small to medium-sized game over all distances

If you’re looking for a mechanical broadhead which flies like a field point and leaves a great blood trail, then the NAP Spitfire could well be the broadhead for you.

When I tested them, I had good penetration working with the 125-gr, maybe as it has a slightly smaller cutting diameter of 1.5 inches.

This nonetheless provides a reasonable wound channel and large enough blood trail to track the animal. If you get good contact though it won’t get very far thanks to the ‘Trophy Tip’ which is designed to penetrate on larger game.

Nonetheless, I’d probably use these broadheads on small to medium-sized game. The combination of the penetrative tip, decent cutting diameter and mechanical action make it perfect for deer hunting.

It has three cut-on-contact diamize sharpened blades, and the ferrule on the spitfire has microgrooves for enhanced accuracy and penetration.

Pros

• best mechanical broadhead for crossbow
• Best crossbow broadheads for deer
• Decent blood trail

Cons

• The blades have a tendency to open while stalking game

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Swhacker 100-grain 2-inch-cut Mechanical Broadheads Review

Use on: small to medium-sized game over all distances

The Swhacker set of 3 broadheads are dependable mechanical broadheads, almost guaranteed to deploy thanks to their solid design.

It has a hardened high-carbon-steel, cut-on-contact, two-blade point which is razor sharp. Once you look past the initial point, you’ll find a first set of wing blades designed to cut straight through hide and the first set of ribs.

Once contact has been made, this first set of blades helps to deploy the second set of edges which don’t touch anything during initial penetration, instead opening only once inside the game, to wreak havoc on the animal’s internal organs. You won’t see too many animals make it more than 100 yards before coming to a halt.

On top of this, the Swhacker has a massive cutting diameter of 2 inches. Even if your aim is slightly off, you’re bound to hit a vital organ and bring your game down.

I found the broadhead to demonstrate solid penetration and durability, and I even found (impressively) that it could hang onto the target when tested at angles, too.

I’d use this happily on any small or medium-sized game over all distances. Find out more about the Swhacker brand and all their crossbow broadheads.

Pros

• Great penetration from angles
• Wide cutting diameter
• Unique design

Cons

• Accuracy: had strange outlier from grouping during testing which was so disappointing as I really liked this broadhead

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

G5 Outdoors Montec Fixed-blade Broadheads Review

Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances

I would be happy to use these G5 Montec broadheads on deer, no problem. In fact, you could even make a case for use on bear and elk, as the blade angle of the Montec is designed for solid penetration, along with a thinner, more penetrative cutting diameter of 1 1/16 inches.

Despite a reduced wound channel, you’ll get a decent blood trail from heavy penetration which should easily make its way through the animal, especially over shorter distances.

Often overlooked, it’s a really simple broadhead to use – you just screw it on and shoot, and it also allows for easy sharpening, meaning you can get good (re)use out of it.

This was important, as I found that it could definitely do with a little more sharpening straight out of the box.

This 100% stainless steel broadhead is spin-tested to ensure the required weight and centricity to perform over long distances.

Pros

• One solid unbreakable piece
• Good for small, medium and large game

Cons

• Blunted out of the box

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Excalibur Boltcutter Fixed-blade Broadheads Review

Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances

I really like the Excalibur Boltcutter, in fact until I did all these recent tests it was (and maybe still will be) my fallback broadhead, whenever I wanted to feel 100% confident.

It’s got a 3-blade head with a small 1 1/16-inch diameter to maximize penetration at all distances; it’s deadly for the very biggest game out there.

It has been designed to improve accuracy over 300 FPS, stabilizing quickly as it leaves the bow.

It’s made of stainless steel to withstand high impacts and improve penetration, and it represents the perfect blend of strength, speed and accuracy.

It’s one drawback is that it costs a little more than most blades, but you can replace the individual blades, or even reuse the blades by sharpening the whole head to offset the cost and get more use out of them.

Pros

• Optimized penetration
• Enhanced accuracy over distances
• withstands high impact
• streamlined design

Cons

• Expensive

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Muzzy Trocar Fixed-blade Review

Use on: medium to large-sized game over all distances

The Muzzy Trocar is a three-blade fixed broadhead with a short stubby nose. The arrowhead has less surface area allowing for better arrow flight.

The hardened steel Trocar head-tip achieves extreme penetration, and the ferrule – built from solid steel – won’t buckle when striking bone, making it the perfect choice for large game.

It doesn’t compromise on accuracy either, thanks to the special right-helix design for solid stability; Muzzy claim they fly just like field tips, and from our experience with them, they aren’t wrong. When I tested it this broadhead achieved both the insane grouping, and massive penetration.

I like this broadhead because it’s completely customizable too. You can change the blade between three cutting diameters, between 1 inch and 1 1/14inches.

Pros

• Best crossbow broadheads for accuracy
• Best crossbow broadheads for penetration

Cons

• N/A

>> Check Price on Amazon <<

Conclusion: the best crossbow broadheads

I found the level to be really high, and any misgivings that I had in the past about mechanical broadheads are slowly going away.

I’d even go so far as to recommend the Swhacker mechanical broadhead as the best crossbow broadheads for small game over any distance, with the Spitfire not far behind.

I liked the mechanical so much with small game because pretty much any hit with the two-inch cutting diameter would be enough to take down the animal, and the arrows would be forgiving thanks to their improved aerodynamicity.

There’s a good argument for the Swhacker or Spitfire moving up to medium-sized game like deer too. I think this is then a question of personal preference, where you should really try out both types and see what works with your crossbow specifications and personal needs.

When I moved up to large game, I decided that you can’t look any further than the Muzzy Trocar. It won hands down for penetration and accuracy, which for me are the two most important factors when shooting big game over any distance.

Duck hunting, a tradition passed down through generations, merges skill, patience, and technical prowess. At its heart lies the choke — an often-underestimated piece of equipment. The choice of choke can significantly influence the success of a hunt. Here’s an expanded guide to help you navigate this decision.

Understanding Choke Constrictions:

Cylinder (CYL):

• Constriction: None.
• Spread: Maximum shot dispersion.
• Usage: Ideal for very close range like upland bird hunting or home defense.

Skeet:

• Constriction: Very slight.
• Spread: A bit tighter than a cylinder but still quite open.
• Usage: Designed for skeet shooting where targets are close and crossing.

Improved Cylinder (IC)

• Constriction: Light.
• Spread: Offers a moderate spread.
• Usage: Versatile for upland bird hunting, close decoying ducks, or early stations in sporting clays.

Light Modified (Light Mod):

• Constriction: Between IC and MOD.
• Spread: Narrower pattern compared to IC.
• Usage: Slightly longer shots than IC, good for varied scenarios in both hunting and clay sports.

Modified (MOD):

• Constriction: Medium.
• Spread: Tightens the spread considerably.
• Usage: A go-to for many hunters; it’s versatile for medium-range shots. Commonly used in trap shooting and for waterfowl over decoys.

Improved Modified (IM):

• Constriction: Between MOD and FULL.
• Spread: Even tighter pattern.
• Usage: Suitable for longer range shots in waterfowl hunting, late stations in sporting clays, and handicap trap shooting.

Full:

• Constriction: Tight.
• Spread: Concentrated pattern with minimal dispersion.
• Usage: Long-range shooting, turkey hunting, and long-distance waterfowl shots.

Extra Full/Turkey:

• Constriction: Extremely tight.
• Spread: Maximum pellet concentration.
• Usage: Designed primarily for turkey hunting where headshots at longer ranges are the norm.

Additional Points:

• Pattern Density:

This refers to the concentration of pellets in a given area of the pattern. The tighter the choke, the denser the pattern in the center.

• Shot Strings:

Tighter chokes might result in longer shot strings, meaning the pellets reach the target over a slightly longer time span.

• Material Compatibility:

Ensure your choke is compatible with the shot material you’re using. For example, not all chokes are designed for steel shot, which can be harder on chokes than traditional lead.

• Safety & Maintenance:

Always ensure your gun is unloaded before changing a choke, and regularly inspect and clean your chokes for optimal performance.

Scenario-Based Choke Selection:

Early Season, Over Decoys:

• Scenario: Ducks are less wary and more likely to come in closer to your decoy spread.
• Best Choke: Improved Cylinder (IC) or Skeet.
• Why: It allows for a wider shot spread at closer ranges.

Timber Hunting:

• Scenario: Hunting in flooded timber or swamps, where shots are usually sudden and close.
• Best Choke: Improved Cylinder (IC).
• Why: Quick shots at close ranges require a more open pattern.

Mid-Season, Open Water:

• Scenario: Hunting on larger bodies of water or where ducks are more spread out.
• Best Choke: Modified (MOD).
• Why: A balanced choke that provides a versatile pattern for varied shot distances.

Late Season, Wary Ducks:

• Scenario: Ducks have been hunted for a while and have become more cautious, often staying at longer distances.
• Best Choke: Full.
• Why: Provides a tighter shot pattern for those longer shots.

Pass Shooting:

• Scenario: Shooting at ducks flying overhead or at a considerable distance.
• Best Choke: Improved Modified (IM) or Full.
• Why: You need a tighter pattern to ensure a successful hit at long ranges.

River or Stream Hunting:

• Scenario: Hunting in narrow waterways where shots can vary from close to somewhat distant.
• Best Choke: Light Modified or Modified (MOD).
• Why: Offers flexibility for a mix of shot distances.

Hunting with Steel Shot:

• Scenario: Many areas require a non-toxic shot, and steel is a common choice.

• Best Choke: Generally, one constriction is more open than you’d use with lead. For example, if you’d typically use MOD with lead, use IC for steel.

• Why: Steel doesn’t deform like lead and often patterns tighter. Hence, a more open choke can give you a similar pattern with steel as a tighter choke would with lead.

Fast & Agile Ducks (e.g., Teal):

• Scenario: Hunting smaller, quicker ducks that often come in fast and change direction suddenly.
• Best Choke: Improved Cylinder (IC) or Skeet.
• Why: The wider spread compensates for these birds’ fast, unpredictable movement.

Hunting Over Spinning Wing Decoys:

• Scenario: Using motorized, spinning-wing decoys to attract ducks.
• Best Choke: Modified (MOD).
• Why: Ducks tend to flare just before landing, giving a slightly longer shot that the MOD choke can handle efficiently.

Coastal Sea Duck Hunting:

• Scenario: Hunting in vast coastal waters where sea ducks tend to be further out.
• Best Choke: Full or Improved Modified (IM).
• Why: Longer shots over open water demand a tighter pattern for effectiveness.

Puddle Ducks vs. Divers:

• Scenario: Hunting in areas where both puddle ducks (like mallards) and diving ducks (like canvasbacks) are present.
• Best Choke: Light Modified or Modified (MOD).
• Why: These chokes provide a good middle ground for both close-in shots on puddle ducks and longer shots on divers.

Late Season, Snowy or Rainy Conditions:

• Scenario: Weather conditions can affect visibility and the flight pattern of ducks.
• Best Choke: Improved Modified (IM).
• Why: IM provides a tighter pattern that can be beneficial when landing shots in less-than-ideal visibility.

Using Heavier Than Lead Loads (e.g., Tungsten):

• Scenario: Using high-density shot like tungsten, which patterns more tightly than steel.
• Best Choke: One step more open than usual; if you’d use Full for steel, use Improved Modified (IM) for tungsten.
• Why: Tungsten’s density allows it to maintain energy and pattern tightly, even with a more open choke.

Chasing Wounded Ducks:

• Scenario: After an initial shot, sometimes ducks are wounded and glide a long way before settling down.
• Best Choke: Cylinder (CYL) or Improved Cylinder (IC).
• Why: For finishing off wounded ducks on water or ground, you don’t need a tight pattern.

Additional Considerations:

Duck Calls & Choke Coordination:

If you’re skilled in calling ducks and can consistently bring them in closer, you might opt for a more open choke.

Double-Barrelled Shotguns:

For those using over-under or side-by-side shotguns, consider a combination of chokes. For example, an IC in one barrel for the first, closer shot and a MOD or IM in the second for a potential follow-up at a longer distance.

Adaptability:

While starting with a certain choke is good, always carry a choke tube wrench and a few different chokes with you. Ducks can be unpredictable, and being able to adapt to changing situations can make a big difference.

Pattern Test:

Whenever you’re trying a new choke or ammunition type, it’s a good idea to pattern-test your shotgun. This will give you a clear picture of how your gun, choke, and ammunition work together.

Safety First:

Always ensure your firearm is unloaded before changing chokes. And ensure the choke is appropriately seated and tightened.

Versatility:

If you’re unsure of the exact scenario you’ll face, the Modified (MOD) choke is a good middle-ground choice for many duck hunting situations.

Factors Influencing Choke Choice

Shot Material:

Non-toxic steel shots act differently than traditional lead. Steel retains its shape more, so often a more open choke is needed compared to lead for the same pattern.

Shot Size:

#4 or #5 might be optimal for ducks, but remember, smaller numbers indicate larger pellets, influencing spread and energy.

Gun Barrel Length:

Longer barrels often produce slightly tighter patterns. While the choke is more influential, barrel length can’t be ignored.

Weather Conditions:

Wet conditions can affect how wads (that hold the shot) behave. Wind, too, can shift patterns. Adapt based on the day’s forecast.

Maintenance and Adaptability:

Choke Rotation:

If you hunt in diverse environments, consider rotating chokes. Some hunters swap at midday based on changing duck behavior.

Cleaning:

Residue buildup can alter constriction. Regular cleaning post-hunt is crucial.

Visual Inspection:

Always check for dents or damage. A damaged choke can harm both the gun and the shooter.

Safety & Best Practices:

• Never Force a Choke: If it’s not threading easily, recheck to avoid cross-threading.
• Choke Markings: Familiarize yourself with the markings on your chokes. Most manufacturers engrave the constriction type on the choke.
• Listen and Observe: Talk to fellow hunters and observe the patterns of the ducks. Sometimes, real-time adjustments based on collective experience can be beneficial.

The Role of Shooting Techniques:

Swing & Lead:

Your choke choice should align with your shooting style. A wider spread might be better for those who ‘swing through’ the bird. A tighter spread can be effective for those who maintain a constant lead.

Follow-through:

This is essential for successful shooting. A tighter choke may require a more disciplined follow-through to ensure accuracy.

Duck Species and Behavior:

• Teal and Wood Ducks: Being agile and fast, these often require a more open choke like IC.

• Mallards and Pintails: These bigger birds might be best approached with a MOD or even IM for longer shots.

Ammunition Velocity:

High vs. Low Velocity: Faster shots (high FPS) might tighten your pattern. If you’re shooting high-velocity rounds, consider if you need to adjust your choke.

Equipment Compatibility:

Matching Choke to Gun: Ensure your choke is compatible with your shotgun. Using a mismatched choke can be dangerous.

Environmental Considerations:

Terrain Awareness: In terrains with tall reeds/grasses, shots might typically be upward, requiring lead changes and possibly choke choice.

Water Reflection: On sunny days, glare from the water can affect visibility. Consider how this may affect your shot placement.

Advanced Techniques:

Double Chokes:

Some advanced hunters use a dual choke system when hunting with over-under or side-by-side shotguns. If needed, this allows for a quick follow-up shot with a different spread pattern.

Feedback Mechanism:

• Pattern Testing: Regularly testing your shot pattern on paper targets can give insights into how your chosen choke behaves with different ammunition.

• Adapting Mid-Hunt: Don’t be afraid to switch chokes if you observe your first few shots are ineffective. Use those moments as feedback.

Hunting Ethics:

Wounded Birds:

It’s our responsibility to reduce wounded birds. You might be shooting too far if you notice many birds getting winged but not downed. Consider a tighter choke or holding off until they’re in range.

The Human Factor:

Experience Level:

Beginners may benefit from a more forgiving, wider spread choke like IC, while seasoned hunters can fine-tune their preferences based on nuanced experiences.

Reaction Time:

Some hunters have lightning-fast reflexes while others are methodical. Knowing your personal speed can inform your choke choice.

Gun Specifics:

• Barrel Smoothness: Over time and use, the inside of a shotgun barrel can develop microscopic roughness or even larger imperfections. This can influence the shot pattern.

• Shotgun Age: Older shotguns, especially antiques, may not be designed for modern chokes or steel shots. Always ensure compatibility.

External Factors:

• Air Pressure & Altitude: Higher altitudes can affect shot spread due to thinner air. It’s a subtle effect but one that dedicated hunters might consider.

• Temperature: Cold can make gun oil viscous. This, in turn, can influence shot speed and, by extension, shot spread.

Hunting Partners:

Team Coordination:

If hunting in a group, coordinating choke choices can be effective. For instance, one hunter can use IC for closer birds while another is prepared with a FULL choke for distant shots.

Technological Advancements:

• Choke Adjusting Tools: Some modern chokes can be adjusted in the field without completely swapping them out, allowing dynamic responses to changing scenarios.
• Smart Chokes: Emerging technologies might offer chokes that adjust based on detected range or even species of the bird.

Holistic Strategy:

• Decoy Setup: Your choke choice should complement your decoy strategy. A wider spread is essential if your decoys are set for close encounters.

• Hunting Blind Placement: Your hideout’s location concerning expected duck flight paths can dictate shot distances and thus choke choices.

Constant Learning:

• Hunt Reflection: After each hunt, assess what went well and what didn’t. Were there many missed opportunities due to choke choice?

• Hunting Logs: Maintain a journal of hunts, noting down choke choice, weather conditions, duck species encountered, and successes/failures. Over time, patterns may emerge that can guide future choices.

Environmental Respect:

Habitat Preservation: Understand the habitat you’re hunting in. Sometimes it’s best to move to a different spot if the area shows signs of over-hunting, even if it means reevaluating your choke choice.

FAQ’s

Conclusion:

Duck hunting is as much a science as it is an art. Each factor, from the minutiae of shotgun maintenance to the broader strategy of the hunt, plays its part in the overall experience. The choke, in its silent, steadfast role, offers both challenges and rewards. By considering all these facets, hunters not only elevate their chances of success but also deepen their connection to the age-old tradition of the hunt.

These 12 gauge turkey loads will help you drop a gobbler this year.

The trusty 12 gauge has long been the favored turkey hunting shotgun of choice by hunters. In most cases, it offers the best combination of stopping power and long range to reach out and drop those large Toms where they stand. The technology behind both the guns themselves, specialized turkey choke tubes, and turkey ammunition only seems to get better every year.

In truth, our hunting gear today is capable of things our forefathers could only have dreamed about. Today we’re focusing exclusively on turkey loads for 12 gauges. We’ll talk about choosing a shot size to bring down that gobbler and the different benefits between the types of shot.

More importantly, we’ll quickly run down some of the top turkey hunting options as far as ammunition goes for 12 gauges these days. Let’s get ready to bring home that turkey dinner!

What size shot is best for a turkey load?

Most hunters go with either No. 4, 5, or 6 shot sizes for turkey ammo. Perhaps more important than the shot size is the type. Lead shot has always been the traditional favorite for speed and knockdown power purposes. However, in recent years, tungsten has really taken off as a premium magnum turkey ammo. Some hunters have taken advantage of the fact that tungsten is heavier than lead to use shot weights of No. 7 or even No. 8, or 9 shot on turkey. Tungsten is popular for public lands since it’s usually considered non-toxic and can be used in places with lead bans. The downside is that it’s usually very expensive.

Perhaps the best thing to keep in mind is that larger, heavier shot is usually going to be best at longer ranges. However, when you start looking at larger shot, you’re also looking at lower pellet counts. That usually means a tight pattern and less room for error if your shot is a bit off. At the end of the day, there is no right answer to this question. It’s the responsibility of the hunter to do a little experimenting to find out what shot, and load size is going to pattern best in his or her firearm.

This may also require some adjustments between chokes. What works great with a full choke may not function as well with a modified one and vice versa. The good news is, once you figure out what your gun likes, you can usually return to that load season after season with little worry.

Of course, you can also compromise and try to get all the benefits in one shotgun shell. One trend in recent years has been for ammunition manufacturers to make turkey shotshells offering “multi-stage payloads” with differing sizes of shot. The idea there being that one shell can easily cover close, medium, and long distance ranges. Think of it as like a Swiss Army knife but in shotshell form. The downside to these rounds is they may not pattern well in every gun. They can also be surprisingly expensive.

Hevi-Shot Magnum Blend

This offering from Hevi-Shot is one of those loads with mixed lead shot sizes we mentioned earlier. They offer three and 3 ½-inch shotshells with loads between 1 ½ ounces and 2 ¼ ounces. You’re looking at 1,150 to 1,200 fps speeds with these shells, which use shot sizes 4, 5, and 7 for almost all the offerings. Although they also make a 2-ounce load with shot sizes 5, 6, and 7. Magnum Blend is expensive, but many turkey hunters have reported harvests out to 40 and 50 yards using these shotshells.

Winchester Long Beard XR

The Winchesters are a great, mid-priced option for hunters looking for a solid, high velocity lead option. The company offers these shotshells in both three and 3 ½-inch shells with load sizes 1 ¾, 1 7/8, and two ounces. Shot sizes are four and five and you can expect a muzzle velocity of around 1,080 to 1,200 fps. We’ve heard from hunters online saying they’ve patterned these loads out to 50 and 60 yards easily, giving you chances at Toms that normally seem to strut just out of range.

Federal Premium Heavyweight TSS

A tungsten shot option from Federal Premium. These loads have become extremely popular in turkey hunting circles for their long range capabilities. That’s partially thanks to the FLITECONTROL Flex wad, which helps produce nice tight patterns. Shot sizes 7, 7 and 9, and 9 are available in 1 ¾, 1 ½, 2, 2 ½, and 2 ¼ shot charge sizes. The only thing we don’t like is the price which like everything else has gone up recently. We recently priced them on sites like Sportsman’s Warehouse at $59.99 to $85.99 for a box of five.

Remington Nitro Turkey

We don’t want to stuff this list just with expensive turkey loads. Because not everyone can or wants to drop major dollars just to bring home a turkey dinner. Remington advertises a muzzle velocity between 1,200 and 1,300 fps for these shells. They offer these in shot sizes 4, 5, and 6. Short charges include 1 ¼, 1 ¾, 1 7/8, 1 ½, and 2. You’re going to want to keep your shots closer with these. Most users report the pattern loses effectiveness beyond 35 yards. However, for hunters on a budget, Remington Nitro Turkey is a solid option as it comes in around $10 to $12 a box depending on the shot size and load. Remington recently stepped up manufacturing again, so these shells are becoming a little easier to find on store shelves.

Hevi-Metal Turkey

This is a solid option for public land hunters. These shells are loaded with a mixture of No. 4 steel and No. 5 bismuth shot in 3 and 3 ½-inch magnum shells. Load sizes are 1 ½ and 1 ¼. The most pleasant surprise about these rounds are the speeds you can expect. Hevi-Shot says to expect about 1,450 fps from both variations. At around $16 a box, they’re also highly affordable for the public land hunter trying to get things done without breaking the bank.

Winchester Super X Turkey

Another solid budget option. We like the Winchesters slightly more than the Remington Nitro Turkey. Like the Remington, it’s not a long range round. We’d stick within 40 yards using these. However, for copper-plated shot, it’s hard to beat $10 to $12 a box. Winchester offers 4, 5, and 6 shot sizes and 1 7/8, 1 ½-ounce loads. Expect around 1,260 fps with the Super X. For a bargain ammo, this one is hard to beat.

Kent Ultimate Turkey Diamond Shot

Affordable and variety. That’s what Kent offers with their Ultimate Turkey Diamond Shot. For 12 gauges, Kent manufactures shell lengths between 2 ¾ and 3 ½ inches. Load sizes include 1 5/8, 1 ¾, 2, and 2 ¼ ounces. Shot sizes include four and five. Diamond refers to the hardness of the shot. These are some lethal-hitting rounds for an excellent price. We’ve even seen them for sale for under $10 recently. Expect about 1,200 fps muzzle velocities out of these loads.

Winchester Double X

Another solid mid-priced option from Winchester. These magnum turkey loads are available in 4, 5, and 6 shot sizes with load sizes including 1 ¾, 2, and even 2 ¼ ounce sizes. Expect between 1,150 and 1,300 fps speeds from this copper-plated lead shot. Expect to pay around $20 to $25 a box, placing these loads squarely in the middle of the pack as far as price point goes.

READ MORE: 20 GAUGE TURKEY LOADS: 8 OF THE BEST OPTIONS ON THE MARKET TODAY

As a busy archery instructor with dozens of students, I’m always on the lookout for the best crossbow targets.

Over the years, I’ve bought dozens of targets and seen exactly how they perform on the range and in the field.

After testing everything from cheap targets that get chewed up after a few hundred bolts to premium targets that can withstand thousands of impacts, I know which targets are worth the money and which are best avoided.

To share everything I’ve learned, I decided to put together this list of what I think are the five best crossbow targets you can buy right now:

1. Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target – Best overall ($83.99)
2. Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target – Best for broadheads ($171.85)
3. Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target – Best portable ($71.99)
4. Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target – Best value ($44.97)
5. GlenDel Buck 3D Archery Target – Best 3D target for hunters. ($175.99)

Curious about why I rate these targets so highly?

Keep reading to the end to find out!

1: Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target (Best Overall)

In first place is the Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target.

The Double Duty is my go-to target whenever I’m coaching students or practicing my hunting skills and, in my opinion, is the overall best crossbow target on the market today.

Here’s a quick look at some of the key features that make the Double Duty my No 1 pick.

Extreme durability

According to Morrell, the Double Duty’s ‘floating center’, which is filled with burlap and stuffing, can withstand bolts traveling at up to 450 fps (feet per second) and is durable enough to withstand thousands of bolts.

For peace of mind, the Double Duty comes with a replacement cover, increasing its lifespan even longer.

Two-finger bolt removal

Morrell is famous for claiming that bolts shot into its targets can be removed with just two fingers. Even though the Double Duty is rated for the fastest bolts, it is claimed to offer the same two-finger bolt removal as other Morrell targets.

Multi-use cube design

The Double Duty is a free-standing cube that can be flipped onto different sides depending on whether you want to practice shooting traditional bullseyes, a dartboard, the billiards game nine-ball, or even deer vitals to brush up on your hunting skills.

Based on what I’ve read online, crossbow enthusiasts seem to absolutely love the Double Duty.

It is currently rated 4.7 out of 5 stars on Amazon based on 2,687 global ratings.

Take Choche, for instance, who says the Double Duty offers easy bolt removal and can withstand thousands of bolt impacts without any issues.

My Experience With The Double Duty

I’ve owned a Double Duty for a couple of years now, and it’s by far my favorite crossbow target and is a great addition to any of the crossbows on this list of the best crossbows.

• The Double Duty is incredibly tough and would definitely be my top recommendation for anyone with a super fast crossbow. One of my buddies shot my Double Duty with his TenPoint Nitro 505 Xero Crossbow, and it had no problem stopping the 505 fps bolt before the vanes.
• True to Morrell’s claims, you really can remove bolts from the Double Duty with just two fingers. In fact, this target has the easiest bolt removal of any crossbow target I’ve ever tested or owned.
• Having multiple sides to shoot at is a real plus, as I can go from shooting at traditional bullseyes to shooting at deer vitals simply by flipping the target. While shooting at the deer vitals side isn’t as immersive as shooting at a real 3D archery target, the Double Duty is far more durable and much better value.
• My only complaint is that while the exterior is waterproof, the sun can fade the material, so it can’t really be left outside all the time. Luckily it has sturdy carrying handles and stowing it away isn’t too much of a hassle.

Priced at just $84.99 on Amazon, the Double Duty is my pick for the best overall crossbow target and is a must-have if you plan on shooting high-speed crossbows.

Click here to read more about the Morrell Double Duty 450 FPS Target and get the best price on Amazon.

2: Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target (Best For Broadheads)

In second place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target.

The 18-1 is an extremely tough and durable target designed to withstand broadheads. With a 12-month warranty, it’s my pick for the best crossbow target for broadheads.

Key features

• Extreme durability: According to Rinehart, the 18-1 is made from self-healing foam that can handle bolts traveling at more than 500 fps.
• Lightweight and portable: With an easy-carry handle, the Rinehart is designed with portability in mind and can easily be transported between the club, the woods, or even your backyard.
• High visibility: The 18-1’s target zones are highly visible, making shot identification very easy, even in low-light conditions.

There aren’t many broadhead-compatible crossbow targets to choose from, and the 18-1 seems extremely popular with customers.

Currently rated 4.6 out of 5 stars on Amazon based on 645 reviews, 80% of customers who purchased the 18-1 have rated it 5 stars.

Take Ben W, for instance, who claims to have shot over 3,000 bolts into his 18-1, making it the longest-lasting target he’s ever owned.

After putting in a warranty claim, he was really impressed that Rinehart sent him a replacement target.

My Experience With The 18-1

As an avid hunter, the 18-1 is my favorite target for testing new broadheads and getting my crossbow zeroed in before heading into the woods.

Here’s my honest review of how my 18-1 has performed:

• The 18-1 is extremely durable and has excellent self-healing, especially with mechanical broadheads. Twin-blade mechanicals cause the least damage, while fixed broadheads can tear the target up more.
• The target markings are highly visible at all times of the day. This makes it far quicker and easier to zero a crossbow, which comes in handy whenever I’m testing new broadheads.
• Although the 18-1 has a high price tag, Rinehart does honor the 12-month warranty and will send a replacement if the target lasts less than a year.

Priced at $129.99 on Amazon, the Rinehart is my pick for the best crossbow target for broadheads.

Click here to read more about the Rinehart 18-1 Broadhead Target and get the best price on Amazon.

3: Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target (Best Portable)

In third place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target.

Yellow Jacket targets are almost as tough and durable as my first place pick, the Double Duty, but they are much more portable.

Here are some of the features that make these crossbow-approved bag targets some of the best crossbow targets you can buy right now.

• Long lifecycle: According to Morrell, the double-sided Yellow Jacket targets are highly weather resistant and stand up well to the elements. The material inside doesn’t degrade, and the targets are claimed to have a very long lifecycle. They also come with a replacement cover to extend the lifespan of the target when the original cover becomes too damaged.
• High durability: Capable of stopping bolts traveling at up to 425 fps, the Yellow Jacket is ideal for all but the most powerful crossbows and is extremely tough. Morrell claims that the Yellow Jacket can withstand thousands of bolt impacts without tearing up.
• Ease of use: Weighing just 32 pounds, the Yellow Jacket is highly portable and has grommets so it can be hung from target stands or trees. Morrell says that bolts can be removed with just two fingers, giving it great ease of use.

I’ve been happily using Yellow Jacket crossbow targets for years, but I wanted to see what others were saying about them online.

With a current rating of 4.7 out of 5 stars on Amazon, it’s safe to say that most customers seem to love Yellow Jacket targets.

Take Joshua, for example, who says his Yellow Jacket stops 125 gr. field points dead in its tracks and is extremely happy with its performance.

My Experience With The Yellow Jacket

I’ve purchased six Yellow Jackets over the years, and here are my thoughts:

• Yellow Jackets are one of the most weather-resistant target bags I’ve ever bought. My oldest target is more than five years old and still going strong. The replacement cover really helps get years of extra life from these targets.
• One of the best things about Yellow Jackets is how portable they are. You can hang them up, stand them against a tree, or position them at just about any angle. If I’m coaching a student at their home, I’ll throw a couple of Yellow Jackets in my truck’s bed, and off I go.
• The only downside about Yellow Jacket targets is that pulling bolts out can be a little tougher than other targets like the Double Duty.

Priced at just $78.75, Yellow Jacket field point targets are my top pick for the most portable crossbow targets. They are durable, easy to use, and give years of reliable use.

Click here to read more about the Morrell Yellow Jacket Field Point Target and get the best price on Amazon.

4: Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target (Best Value)

In fourth place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target.

While I’m a huge fan of Morrell’s products, I realize that not everyone wants to spend $80 on a crossbow target. That’s why the Speedbag 20 is my fourth-place pick.

In my opinion, the Speedbag 20 is a great budget-priced crossbow target that holds up well to thousands of bolt impacts.

Here are a few of its features that make it my No 4 pick for the best crossbow target.

Key features

• Max FPS rated: Delta McKenzie says the Speedbag 20 is rated to handle the fastest-shooting crossbows.
• Multiple targets: The dual-sided Speedbag 20 has multiple aiming points, making it suitable for novice and experienced shooters alike.
• Weather resistant: The Speedbag 20 is highly weather resistant and offers great outdoor durability.

I own a couple of Speedbag 20s and know firsthand how great they are. From what I’ve read online, customers seem to love them too.

Currently rated 4.5 out of 5 stars on Amazon based on 34 global ratings, the Speedbag 20 seems to be extremely popular with other crossbow owners.

Bretty says the Speedbag 20 is a solid crossbow target that has stopped every bolt he’s tried. He recommends the target for anyone looking for a budget-friendly target with great stopping power.

My Experience with the Speedbag 20

After shooting thousands of bolts at my Speedbag 20s over the years, here’s my honest assessment of how they perform:

• Delta McKenzie’s claim about the Speedbag 20s being ‘Max FPS’ rated is definitely justified. It has absolutely no trouble stopping 400+ fps bolts from any crossbow and comfortably stops 450 fps bolts from my Ravin R29X Predator.
• I love how portable the Speedbag 20s are and often use them when I’m coaching a client at their home.
• My only complaint about the Speedbags is they aren’t as weather resistant as the Yellow Jackets, so I don’t recommend leaving them outside.

Overall, the Speedbag 20 is an excellent budget-priced crossbow target that holds up well and should provide years of happy use.

Click here to learn more about the Delta McKenzie Speedbag 20” Target and get the best price on Amazon.

5: GlenDel Buck 3D Archery Target (Best 3D Target For Hunters)

In fifth place on my list of the best crossbow targets is the GlenDel Buck 3D Archery Target with Replaceable Insert Core.

I love 3D archery and have tested a number of 3D targets over the years. In my opinion, GlenDel makes the best one, and it’s my top pick for the best 3D archery target for crossbow hunters.

Here’s why I rate the GlenDel so highly.

Key Features

• Realistic hunting practice:GlenDel’s 3D deer target is approximately the same size as a 200lb buck, making it extremely realistic for target practice. Standing 34” at shoulder height, it’s great for honing your skills as you prepare to drop a monster buck.
• Long target life: Made in the U.S.A. using PolyFusion Technology, GlenDel claims that its target can withstand thousands of bolt impacts. The replaceable four-sided insert core can easily be replaced when they reach the end of its lifespan.
• High maneuverability: The head and antlers are fully removable, making the target much easier to transport and position in the field.

I’ve had a GlenDel 3D deer target as part of my range for more than two years and am extremely happy. Looking online, it seems most other owners are similarly impressed.

The target is rated 4.4 out of 5 on Amazon based on 1,609 global ratings, and 71% of reviewers gave it the top score.

Marcus says his 3D target is impressively sturdy and has held up well after 100 arrows. He says the arrows are easy to pull out and recommends this target to anyone looking for a realistic hunting target.

“The wind has picked up. Hold the edge of the plate.”

I maneuvered the reticle over to the edge of the plate, which was shimmering in the morning heat. I eased back on the trigger, and at the sound of the shot the rifle pushed back a bit. I watched a new dot appear on the plate, but I could not hear the impact.

I was at Bill Wilson’s ranch, with Bill himself calling the wind for me, using a Wilson Combat Super Sniper, chambered in 6mm Creedmoor. The Super Sniper is the culmination of the knowledge base of Bill and his crew and their years of building rifles based on the Stoner system.

The Wilson Combat Super Sniper’s 20-inch barrel is heavyweight stainless with a 1:8 twist, and this particular sample had the threaded muzzle option with a Wilson Combat flash hider installed. There is also a rapid-thread muzzle brake as an option.

The barrel is installed in a Wilson Combat BILLet upper, which is matched to a lower, and both are machined from pre-hardened billet aluminum. A small rubber bumper in the lower bears against the rear lug of the upper as you close it up for a wobble-free fit.

The fore-end is the company’s T.R.I.M. Rail, a free-float handguard 13.8 inches long that has M-Lok slots for mounting a bipod and any other accessories you use. The full-length optics rail up top aligns with the rail on the receiver, so there’s plenty of room for scopes, backup iron sights, night vision or other extras.

The Rogers Super-Stoc telescoping stock is standard equipment, but my sample came with an optional fixed Gen3 PRS from Magpul that adjusts for cheekpiece height and length of pull.

The lower receiver has a Wilson Combat pistol grip, made by Bravo Company with the Wilson Starburst pattern and logo on it. The trigger on my sample was Wilson’s TTU, a two-stage trigger set at four pounds. The charging handle is Bravo’s BCM Gunfighter with its larger-than-GI left-side latch. The Super Sniper’s bolt and bolt carrier are magnetic particle inspected and then NP3 coated.

In the AR-10 version of the Super Sniper, which includes the 6mm Creedmoor chambering, the rifle feeds from M110-pattern magazines. Wilson supplied one from Lancer, but Magpuls will work as well.

The base model Super Sniper is finished in black Armor-Tuff, but my test rifle featured a burnt bronze/black camo pattern. It also came with Wilson’s T V3 Ultralight scope mount. The V3 does not use the hand-tightened wheel of the firm’s Accu-Rizer but rather three crossbolts that clamp the mount to the receiver. It is lighter and sturdier, but it requires tools to install. A Leupold VX-6HD scope was installed for testing.

The 6mm Creedmoor is a result of the competitive demands of the Precision Rifle Series, a long-range competition that requires accuracy, flat trajectory and the ability to deliver quick follow-up shots when needed. When I was shooting with Bill Wilson, I could see all my hits out to 1,200 yards, but at the longest distance I couldn’t hear them because the 108-grain bullet didn’t ring the steel hard enough to let the sound carry back to the firing line.

I don’t have easy access to such distances back at home, so I had to content myself with punching absurdly small groups at 100 yards. The clean, crisp trigger pull of the TTU made that easy. I suspect this rifle could shoot even better than I found, as the accuracy limits are getting down to my limits.

What is this rifle for? Well, for someone who wants to get into Precision Rifle Series or similar long-range rifle competitions, this would be just the ticket because it’s scarily accurate and has mild recoil.

As a hunting rifle, the Super Sniper might not be the best choice. At a book weight of more than eight pounds, it isn’t exactly a stalking rifle, and once you load it up with a bipod, scope and ammo, you’re looking at double-digit weights. But if you’re hunting from a tree stand or a blind where you don’t have to lug the rifle very far and there’s an availability of a rest, that weight won’t matter.

As a beautifully made, utterly reliable rifle that the shooters at the gun club will envy, the Wilson Combat Super Sniper gets top marks. Yes, the starting point is a bit on the high side as AR rifles go these days. And once you add in the extras, the price does tick up, but quality costs and quality lasts. If you don’t simply blast ammo into the hillside to make noise, you’ll be a long time wearing out the Wilson Combat Super Sniper’s 6mm Creedmoor barrel.

Wilson Combat Super Sniper Specs

Type: AR-15, AR-10 (tested)Caliber: .223 Wylde, .224 Valkyrie, 6mm Creedmoor (tested), 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Grendel, .260 Rem., .308 Win.Capacity: 20-round Lancer magazine suppliedBarrel: 20 in.Overall Length: 40.5 in.Weight: 8 lb., 11 oz.Receivers: Billet aluminum, burnt bronze/black Armor-Tuff handguard T.R.I.M. free-float M-LokStock: Magpul PRS Gen3 fixed; Bravo Company grip Wilson starburstSights: None; full-length optics railTrigger: TTU 2-stage, 4 lb. pull (measured)Price: $3,020 (base), $5,525 (as tested)Manufacturer: Wilson Combat, wilsoncombat.com

Wilson Combat Super Sniper Accuracy Results

In 2020, the term Reflex Sight sounds a little out of date. There’s something of a late-80’s to Operation Desert Storm alure hovering about the old name. Often now referred to as a Red Dot Sight, the current nomenclature of the tactically proficient inundate themselves with words like Optic, or obscure the subject with codewords like “glass.” Growing up in tandem with the internet, many remember the day they graduated from the brain-melting phase of arguing AR vs AK, through the troublesome years of 9mm vs .45 into the sure sign of adulthood: the classic Red Dot vs Holographic arguments of the early 2010’s. In those days one was forced into what could only be understood as a binary decision: do you favor the indestructibility of the Aimpoint M68 CCO, or that big-as-a-Navy-SEAL’s-ego field-of-view unique at that time to the EOTECH Holo sight?

History of the Reflex Sight

Before we dig into the characteristics, qualities, and varieties of reflex sights, a little bit of history must come first. As time passes, the integration of digital technology into projectile weapons only continues to increase, and one should expect it to continue. While Red Dot Sights are still being accepted and integrated into handguns, it didn’t take long for Iron Sights to become a secondary option to an aiming device not designed for ranged magnification. The spiritual ancestor to what is now the norm for close range combat and defense carbines came about through the use of tritium and a curious understanding of the human brain.

The OEG, or Occluded Eye Gunsight emerged around the Vietnam war and gained recognition during the Son Tay prison raid. Unlike the conventional U.S. Armed forces of the day, the soldiers in the Special Operations could be found sporting what looked like a scope with a small red object protruding out where the objective lens would sit. However, if one looked into the OEG like a rifle scope, all they would see would be a red dot in a field of black. The OEG required the shooter to keep both eyes open, manifesting a phenomenon called collimating where one eye would see the dot the target, the other eye the dot, and the brain would superimpose the two images together. This same concept when applied to the ACOG and other prismatic optics is called the Bindon Aiming Concept.

But by 1975, Aimpoint had launched their electronic Reflex Sight by bringing battery-illuminated lighting to a bloodline of engineering dating back to 1902. By reflecting a point of light off of a layer of glass, the term “reflex sight” was born. The name stuck, however, largely due to the way it was perceived to grant lightning reflexes to the shooter.

Function and Operation

The Reflex Sight plays fewer tricks on your mind than its predecessors, but holds onto the genetic development all the same. While the OEG didn’t reflect light toward the eye of the shooter, a reflex sight uses a light-emitting diode to project a small point onto a sheet of curved glass which corresponds to the desired point of impact of the shooter. This glass has a special coating that allows most frequencies of light to pass through but reflects red light back to the shooter. The wider the frequency of reflected light, the more discolored the lens will appear.

The simplicity of a single-reference point of aim as opposed to lining up a front and rear sight allows not only for easing strain on the eyes transitioning through focal planes, but also reduces the dependency of the shooter to have perfect form. The angle of the reflection functionally affords the shooter grace when aiming, for so long as the optic was zeroed, the shooter can move their head shifting the apparent location of the dot in the optic, with minimal effect on their point of impact. There is debate, however, about how much this affects the placement of the shot, if at all.

Short comment on Parallax:

Parallax is the apparent displacement of an object when viewed from two different angles. A simple example we’ve all experienced is a speedometer in a car: viewing a speedometer from the driver’s seat will give you the correct reading, whereas when it’s seen from the passenger seat it will be wrong.

The same applies to optics, regardless of marketing claims of “parallax free”. The only time a scope or red dot will not have parallax error is if the eye is perfectly centered behind the reticle, or if the reticle is focused exactly on the targeted distance. Parallax error is largely unnoticeable at magnifications under 10x, which is why you’ll have a parallax adjustment knob on any quality scope above that magnification level.

The reflex sight developed along three main paths from there: ruggedness, size, and field of view. The rugged genome gave birth to the Aimpoint T-1 Micro, and was followed by a whole list of contenders as time passed on. Micro red dot sights (MRDS) eventually could fit on a pistol and now have surpassed trending and quickly are becoming the new normal. Contending with the EOTECH for field of view are options like the Trijicon MRO that feature a design attempting to minimize how much the body of the sight blocks the shooter’s view.

The name Red Dot Sight should not be deceiving, however. Young soldiers are probably still spreading the idea that the infamous “they” chose red because of how easy the eye picks up the dot. We’re not here to comment on that at the moment, but those for those who play Call of Duty or have some colorblindness, not every reflex sight comes exclusively in Red, and with new models arriving each year, a greater variety of reticles are appearing on the market.

Even as the technology behind optics and sights continues to explore new directions, the qualities typically found in reflex sights gives them a certain dominance in the field. Most options boast nearly excessive battery life, often marketed in the years. In trunks, closets, and gun safes across the country a T-1 Micro can be found with the light on, left that way on purpose with the confidence that the car’s battery will likely need changing first.

Few alternatives can beat a Reflex Sight in weight and durability. At the same time, Low Power Variable Optics (LPVO’s) are beginning to creep in with generous fields of view, all the while offering magnification at the turn of a dial. Holographic sights still pose a threat to the hegemony of red dots by creeping down in price with the Vortex UH-1.

The State of Reflex Sights in 2021

There’s nothing like having choices, but in 2020, we’re no longer gambling with cheap knock-offs with so many legitimate contenders on the field. Remember the three main paths from earlier? In similar fashion, the three categories of reflector-type red dot sights presented are full-size prioritizing field of view, the rugged compact optics typically featuring a 20mm aperture, and the self-defined micro section popular on pistols.

Full-Size / Field of View

From the battlefield to a boar hunt, the heart and soul of reflex sights rests in the hands of these options. Old enough to be found on retro clone builds, relics like the Aimpoint M68 CCO still garner respect, and with years of use before options like the EOTECH reached the military, the design had gone through evolutions of improvement. Spiritual successors such as the AIMPOINT PRO and Vortex SPARC have survived house fires, which is more than most of us will go through, hopefully.

Even as some evolutions sought to get smaller, the desire for full-size reflex sights remains prominent as multiple companies continue to offer reputable and dependable red dot optics with aperture hovering around that 30 mm mark.

More on Full Size Reflex Sights

• This Aimpoint PRO survived a House Fire.
• Another full-cruelty demonstration of the failing to kill a Vortex Sparc.

Rugged / Compact

Perhaps it was timing, perhaps by design, when the Aimpoint T-1 Micro hit the scene in 2007, it brought with it the YouTube torture test. Millions watched in horror and anticipation as the Reflex Sight was dropped, smashed, thrown across concrete parking lots, submerged in water, and the like, only to be returned to the rifle with minimal shift in point of impact. Number crunchers claimed a 5-year battery life and quickly the optic was spotted on carbines, pistols, and shotguns. The category-defining durability spawned a host of options, with features like solar panels, reticle choices, and a steady creep towards more and more affordable options.

The trend had caught on, and rightly deserved a place in the pantheon of excellent red dot designs. Even as Aimpoint’s T-1 and T-2 Micro continue to hold a venerable place as the category progenitor, new offshoots have arrived offered with a range of dot colors, reticles, and features like solar panels to extend battery life can be found on SIG ROMEO4T and various models by HOLOSUN. In 2020, those interested in topping a defense carbine should not overlook the whole list of contenders including the STRIIKER by Atibal, Liberator by Swampfox, SPARC AR or Crossfire by VORTEX, and the TSR by U.S. Optics, just to name a few. There was a day when the naysayers could say nay, but today is not that day.

Vortex SPARC AR as low as $199 at Optics Planet

MICRO

Distinctly miniature, Micro Red Dots were not the first ones to make it on a pistol, but their popularity as a handgun optic has multiple histories. In 1970, Jerry Barnhart Before the days of sending a pistol off to get an optic cut, the most common place to find a micro reflex sight would be on a military or competition rifle mounted in tandem with some form of magnified glass. For a time, the combination of a Trijicon ACOG accompanied with an RMR caught the envy of those outside special military units, and for those interested in 3 gun, choosing to mount a second optic on your rifle will secure you a place in the high speed and punishing open devision.

In order to achieve their size, most Micro Reflex Sights feature an exposed emitter, sacrificing durability for reduced weight and size. Subject to the elements, MRDS’s require regular cleaning and maintenance, and both water and debris threaten to put them out of commission.

The Aimpoint ACRO and Holosun HE509T-RD were both designed as a sealed system, with the intent of topping common handguns. When sorting through the many options of micro reflex sights, one must pay special attention to the footprint: the pattern of bottom face of the optic that attaches to either a pistol slide or mount for use on long guns. Some share footprints, but that’s dicy business and often a point of friction between competing manufacturers.

Shop Holosun at Optics Planet

More on Pistol Mounted Micro Red Dot Sights:

• Learn how to Master Red Dot Equipped Pistols with Mike Pannone.
• For more on the history of red dots on handguns, as well as what to do when they break, read here from Concealment 9.
• For techniques on transitioning from irons to an MRDS, read more.

Holographic Sights

In 2020, no one should be faulted for mistaking an EOTech XPS series or Vortex UH-1 as a reflex sight. The distinction between a holo sight and more traditional reflex optics is found in how they go about getting a reticle to appear for the shooter. From the outside, they look and act similar, but holographic sights bring their own characteristics to the table. Though shorter battery life and wider field of view are typical of the category, that’s not all we’ll have to say on them. Keep current and we’ll let you know when there’s more content on holographic sights.

Closing Off

Having come so far, we expect the future of the reflex sight to develop in two directions: either a constant pursuit of making them smaller, lighter, and less occluding of the shooter’s vision, or ultimately relinquishing ties to their old name by giving up the dependency on reflecting light off glass all together. We’re not sure how this second option will manifest, but if it’s anything like the video games, we’d be more than interested.

For now, reflex sights continue to dominate the trend and market of close-range, quick-draw inspiring aiming devices, at least in daylight hours. Tying them into night vision operations is still a work in progress, as a red-dot mounted pistol feel like cheating they’re so easy, while the experience is opposite when trying to line up an NVG tube with a sight sitting atop a carbine. Most, in that case, opt to use IR lasers to accommodate night vision dependent military operations.

Finally, the ecosystem of available reflex sights can quick spark more than one heated debate over which is “best.” That argument, thankfully, is waning as the level of quality found across the industry continues to rise. There was a time when one ventured onto dubious ground when looking at anything other than the higher-priced names typically known to secure government contracts, but those days are passing quickly by as more and more manufacturers continue offer reliable quality optics backed up by honest warranties. Owning a dependable reflex sight need not come at a luxury cost.

More on Optics

• LPVO vs Magnifier, Pick your Poison.
• Red Dot Sight Buyer’s Guide.
• Many of the Best 9mm Pistols for 2020 come optics-ready.
• EOTech Magnifier: Force Multipliers.
• The Holographic Sight Advantage of EOTech.
• Vortex Red Dot Sight Guide.
• Aimpoint Acro vs Holosun 509T: Battle of Sealed MRDS Optics.
• Prism Scope Versatility: The Battlefield and Beyond.

Fishing for buffalo is becoming more and more popular in the US and many anglers, who are new to the sport, wonder about the best ways of catching this awesome species. So I decided to write a detailed guide on how to catch buffalo fish in order to help you get going.

In order to successfully catch buffalo fish, you will need heavy carp rods, carp reels, a strong braided mainline, and #4-#8 wide gape hooks. Buffalo fish are best fished for on the bottom and caught on hookbaits such as boilies or tiger nuts.

If you want to get expert tips on how to catch buffs, what gear and baits to use, and where to fish for buffalo, all you have to do is keep reading.

Disclaimer: This article includes expert advice provided by Texan buffalo angler James King. James has caught several lake records and was kind enough to share some of his best tips with Strike & Catch.

What Gear Do You Need To Catch Buffalo Fish?

When it comes to buffalo fish, using the right gear is absolutely essential. Not only when it comes to the presentation of your baits, but also because buffalo fish are extremely strong fish. Getting them on the hook is only half the battle, fighting and successfully landing them is the really difficult part.

It is here that fishing with heavy and qualitative gear really pays off!

Rods

You will want to use heavy 2-section carp rods with a length of 12ft and a test curve of at least 3lb. Rods like that will both let you cast out your rigs very far and have a strong enough backbone to fight even the biggest and strongest of buffalo.

When it comes to carp rods, both Shimano and Daiwa are two solid brands that you can trust 100%. They make really high-qualitative rods for a very decent price. I use 3 Daiwa rods myself and they have landed me a ton of fish over the years. Check out the Daiwa Black Widow Carp Rod on Amazon here.

Reels

Heavy artillery carp reels are also something that I recommend strongly when fishing for buffs, as they will do most of the hard work together with you during the fight. Big pit reels that can hold a lot of line are definitely the way to go, both for casting and for fighting buffalo. Because when they charge off, they can go a long way!

Once again, Daiwa is the brand of choice here. You should definitely check out their Daiwa Crosscast Carp. It’s a superb real that is definitely capable of handling big buffalo. Take a look at this awesome reel on Amazon here.

Line

The third really important component when it comes to your gear is your mainline. Now, you can choose between monofilament and braid, and if this article would have been about carp, I’d suggest mono. For buffs, however, braid is definitely the better choice!

Braid has almost no stretch to it, which is a huge advantage when fishing for buffalo, as they are extremely careful when picking up your hookbait. You will want that hook to set as quickly as possible, and a no-stretch mainline will certainly help in that regard.

Additionally, braid has the ability to transfer even the slightest of movements from your hookbait to your rod tip much faster than mono does, which means that you will be able to detect even the most careful of takes.

a strong braided line of 30lb test is what you are looking for here and the one braid I use for all my fishing and one I can highly recommend is the Power Pro. I don’t think there is a better braid out there, to be honest! You can check out the Power Pro on Amazon here.

Pro Tip: Connect 4-5 feet of 40lb fluorocarbon to the end of your mainline and cover it with a sinking rig tube of the same length to both protect the fish and to make your end tackle even stronger and more abrasion-resistant.

Rigs

The best rig for buffalo is a classic carp rig, consisting of the following end tackle:

• a barrel or quick change swivel
• a 4-5 inch braided hooklink (30 to 40lb test)
• a size 4 to 8 wide gape or long shank carp hook

That’s basically it! This will make for a very effective hair rig that can catch you a ton of buffs! To make this rig even more effective, you can also put on an anti-tangle sleeve (helps a lot for those long-distance casts), as well as a short piece of shrink tube that’ll go on the hook shank (for a better hook set if and when the fish hooks itself).

RELATED ARTICLE: You can check out this article if you want to learn how to tie a simple hair rig!

The short hooklength further aids the hook set, as the hook will set almost immediately after the fish has picked up your bait.

Bank Sticks or Rod Pod

Fishing for buffalo is a waiting game and if you are using more than one rod, putting them on a couple of banksticks or a rod pod can be a very good idea.

This way, they are secured (use butt rests) and off the ground and you can use bite alarms to better detect the often careful buffalo takes.

Bite Alarms and Bobbins

Electronic bite alarms are super useful when fishing for buffalo. They make the need to constantly check your rods obsolete and also let you fish through the night. Although when it comes to buffalo, keeping an eye on your rods is never a bad idea, as the bite alarms can certainly miss the occasional slow or careful take.

That’s why bite alarms should be used in combination with hangers, or bobbins. These will help you notice less obvious bites and can accurately indicate the, for the buffalo so typical, drop back take, which will be explained further down in the article. A cheap set on bobbins can be found on Amazon right here.

Landing Net

Buffalo fish can get huge, which is why you’ll need a wide and deep net in order to securely land them. A 42inch carp landing net is the perfect fit for big buffalo. You can find a great carp landing net on Amazon here.

What Is the Best Way to Fish for Buffalo?

Finding the Fish

If you’re not fishing pay lakes, but instead target natural waters with wild buffalo in them, you will often find yourself fishing water systems of considerable size. Put in other words, buffalo can most often be found in gigantic lakes and larger river systems, and finding them there is not always the easiest of tasks.

If you’re lucky, you will be able to spot fish somewhere in the lake, but all too often, that is just not possible.

Try to find any kind of features that hold food and hence attract fish. Those can include:

• Weeds
• Reeds
• Small islands
• River mouths
• Drop-offs (especially attractive during summer, when the shallow waters are too warm)

Pro Tip: If you fish a water you are not familiar with, ask the local fishermen for advice! Most of them will be happy to share some good locations and give you some valuable tips!

Pre-Baiting

So, once you’ve decided on a spot you want to try out, a good tactic is to pre-bait it. If there is food in your spot, the fish will find it, as opposed to you having to search for them.

Of course, there is never a guarantee, but as buffalo fish, much like carp, really like to feed a lot, pre-baiting can definitely improve your chances.

Now, what and how much you put out is really up to you. Generally speaking, the more you can throw in the better! You can pre-bait your spot with anything from feed corn, beans, nuts, to boilies and pellets. Trust me, they’ll eat it all.

Pro Tip: Stay clear of processed ingredients such as Jello! Instead, use lots of good attractants like salts and oils to make your particles even more powerful.

Pack Bait

Once you are ready to start fishing, consider using bigger balls of pack bait around your weights or method feeder. The additional bait, which will be presented extremely close to your actual hook bait, will certainly get the attention of any buff that is now in the area.

Additionally, pack bait and the bait cloud it produces attract a lot of small fish, which, in turn, capture the interest of bigger fish, like buffalo and carp.

Pro Tip: Buffs like hot and spicy stuff! So make sure to flavor your pack bait with chili or curry powder!

Fox Paste Bomb

As mentioned in the gear section above, using an inline paste bomb is by far the most effective way to fish for buffalo. Not only will a weight of 3 or 4oz keep your hookbait pinned down on the bottom, it also allows you to chuck out really big and heavy balls of pack bait.

If you know how to handle a 3lb carp rod, casting out a 3oz weight with an additional 4oz of pack bait 70 yards or more can be a relatively easy task. And being able to get that much feed out with each and every cast is a huge advantage! You can purchase the Fox Paste Bom at Big Carp Tackle here.

The Hook Set

Now that you have baited up your swim and cast out your rods, it’s time to wait for that take. When it comes, you gotta be 100% ready!

Despite their impressive size and brud force, buffalo fish actually feed and bite very cautiously and it’s extremely easy to miss a bite when it comes.

Unlike carp, who will almost always hook themselves against the weight of your bottom lead and then immediately swim off, buffalo won’t really notice that they have been hooked. Due to their very thick and fleshy lips, they simply won’t feel the hook when it penetrates.

And as they don’t really seem to care much about the weight hanging off their mouths either, they’ll just keep grazing and feeding.

All too often, this behavior will lead to the classic drop back, which is the best bite indicator you can get when fishing for buffs!

When they’ve been hooked and carry on feeding or swimming around lazily, they will often lift the weight off the bottom. This will cause your mainline to go slack and the hanger, or bobbin, on your bite alarms to drop down.

At best, you will get the visual indication of the bobbin moving and a few beeps from your bite alarm, but that’s usually it. So if you want to be able to fight and land that buff, this is when you’ll have to pick up your rod!

What Are the Best Baits for Buffalo?

Buffalo fish can be caught on a variety of both natural and artificial baits. The ones that are best suited for big buffs and for the type of rig presented in this article include:

• Boilies and Pop-Ups/Dumbbells (fish them snowman style: 1 boilie and 1 pop-up on the hair)
• Tiger Nuts
• Plastic Tiger Nuts

Pro Tip: The artificial baits are especially effective in waters that hold crayfish or turtles, as they have a much harder time getting those baits off the hook or hair.

All three bait types can be presented on a simple hair rig and will fit the buffalo’s fairly small mouth perfectly.

The somewhat bigger boilies and pop-ups come in handy on waters with a lot of smaller baitfish, as they won’t be able to get those baits into their mouths and hence do not produce unnecessary bites. You can find high-quality boilies and pop-ups over at Big Carp Tackle.

If your fishing spot is not disturbed by any smaller fish, you can also use the following baits for buffalo:

• corn
• artificial pop-up corn
• worms

What Is the Best Time of Year to Catch Buffalo?

In the southern parts of the US, the best time to catch buffalo fish is between December and May. During that period of the year, the temperatures in both air and water are more moderate, which means that there is more oxygen in the water.

This spells more active fish that feed on a more or less regular basis throughout the day.

In the northern parts of the US, as well as in Canada, the best time to catch buffalo is between late summer and late fall.

Where Can You Catch Buffalo Fish?

While a majority of lakes with the biggest buffalo can be found in the state of Texas, you can actually find them in most US states.

Their geographical distribution stretches Canada in the north to Texas and Alabama in the deep south.

In Canada, they can be found in the Milk River and Qu’Appelle River that flow through Alberta, Saskatchewan, and Manitoba. They also inhabit Lake Winnipeg.

In the northern US, they are native to midwestern and eastern states such as Wisconsin, North Dakota, Montana, and Minnesota. They then follow the midwestern and eastern parts of the US all the way down to Texas, Alabama, Oklahoma, and Louisiana.

The major water systems in which they can be found include the Hudson Bay and Mississippi River drainages.

Do Buffalo Fish Fight Hard?

While buffalo are extremely subtle feeders and are generally fairly slow-moving fishing, they can turn into real steam locomotives once they realize that they’ve been hooked.

Unlike carp, which often swim hither and thither and in a somewhat panicky and uncontrolled way, buffalo often simply charge off into one direction and keep to it.

But that’s exactly the difficult part when fighting them. Consider a 50lb fish that seems to have near unlimited power and energy reserves and that swims off with relentless force and determination!

Now, try to imagine that powerful fish at the end of your fishing line. If you can imagine that, you understand the need for all the heavy gear I mentioned above!

How Big Can Buffalo Fish Get?

The smallmouth buffalo, which is the buffalo type that is most commonly found and fished for in the States, is a species that can reach really impressive sizes. Fish of over 60lb aren’t that unusual and fish that have weighed in at over 80lb have been caught in the US.

As the species isn’t all that popular, not too many fish get caught and so, no one really knows how big they can get. It is not impossible that there are 100lb+ specimens swimming around in some major lakes of the south! Imagine hooking up to a fish that size!

Currently, the US and world record smallmouth buffalo is a fish of an incredible 82lb 3oz. That behemoth was caught by angler Randy Collins on Athens Lake (Texas) back in 1993.

Related Articles

• What Is the Difference Between Buffalo Fish and Carp?
• Euro-Style Carp Fishing Gear (A Complete Guide)
• What Types of Carp Are There?

All images courtesy of James King

About The Author

Not sure what suppressor sights to get for your Glock?

Look no further.

I’ve tested ALL the best Glock suppressor sights, arranged them into categories, and even included accessories and installation techniques.

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect suppressor sight for your Glock.

Let’s get started!

What are Suppressor Sights?

There are two key factors to shooting accurately when using a handgun with iron sights: correct sight alignment and a clear sight picture.

Many shooters own Glock pistols fitted with suppressors or have the best reflex sights installed on their handguns. Unfortunately, your line of sight will be obstructed when using factory sights.

How?

Due to the circumference of most suppressors— being larger than the barrel of the handgun— it can block the sight picture ahead of the front sight.

Also, if you have a red dot installed on the slide, the RDS housing sits in between the front and rear sights. This can obscure your target.

If your pistol is configured this way, you’ll most likely need to install suppressor sights.

These are aftermarket sights that are specially engineered to sit higher than the suppressor, making your line of sight unobstructed again.

The Best Glock Suppressor Sights

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best Glock suppressor sights:

1. Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sights Set: Best Glock 19 Suppressor Sights
2. Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sights Suppressor Set: Best Night Sights for Glock
3. AMERIGLO GL-506 Tall Black Serrated Suppressor: Best for the Budget
4. AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress: Best for Glock 17

1. Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sight Set: Best Glock 19 Suppressor Sights

The Trijicon Glock Night Set is the best suppressor height sight for the Glock 19.

Trijicon specifically engineered this sight to be used with a suppressor or as backup iron sights.

In fact:

They advertise it to improve shooting accuracy by as much as five times compared to just conventional sights.

My question: Is this true?

Let’s find out!

Brightness

The Trijicon Glock suppressor sights have an exceptionally visible sight picture.

Each lamp is capped with a sapphire jewel intended to evenly distribute the light. I can confirm it performs well in no-light and low-light situations.

The white outline helps with the visibility— day or night. The different colored Tritium lamps give great contrast for quick target acquisition.

I do understand the orange trits have a shorter lifespan, but given the affordable price tag, I don’t mind it at all given the sight picture.

Durability

The Trijicon Suppressor Night Sights have a sleek yet durable finish.

These sights’ tritium lamps are contained inside aluminum cylinders for maximum protection.

It also comes with extra silicone rubber cushioning for heavy recoil. You won’t need to worry about harsh cleaning solvents either.

One con I’d like to point out:

The edges of the rear and front sights are VERY sharp. It becomes uncomfortable after a while unless I’m wearing an undershirt.

Mounting & Installation

The Trijicon Suppressor Night Sight Set is incredibly easy to install.

I used a front sight hex tool

and a universal sight pusher tool from Amazon.

Before installing the front sight, I dropped a little Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker to secure the screw into the front sight base. It wiggles slightly but doesn’t affect the accuracy of the gun at all.

On the plus side, it co-witnesses perfectly with my suppressor and Trijicon RMR.

Is the Trijicon Night Sight Set worth it?

If you’re looking for excellent sights that are easy to install on your Glock 19, get the Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sight Set.

Why? It guarantees:

• Quick installation
• Durable construction
• Self-illuminated Bright Tritium
• Excellent low light performance

Plus, Trijicon offers a warranty on all sights to be free of defects in material and workmanship for the lifetime of the original owner. If you find any issues, they’ll replace them free of charge.

Overall, the Trijicon Suppressor Night Sight Set works flawlessly.

In case you didn’t know, Trijicon is on the top of my list for the best mp shield night sights as well. I mean— It’s Trijicon, after all.

2. Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Suppressor Set: Best Night Sights for Glock

The Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Suppressor Set is the best night sight for the Glock.

As a matter of fact:

Almost all of my handguns have Trijicon night sights installed on them.

BUT, I’m not biased. I put these sights through torture and hand-testing

Here’s how it went…

Brightness

The Trijicon Bright & Tough Set is remarkably visible— both day and night.

It’s not too bright where your eye is distracted but bright enough to quickly acquire your target and get a perfect sight picture.

I keep it on my nightstand and I can easily tell how my handgun’s positioned thanks to the trillium.

I prefer the white outline on the front and rear sights. Some shooters choose orange on the front, but all white works just as well, especially if you have old eyes.

On that note:

If you co-witness with red dots and struggle shooting accurately, I recommend checking out holographic weapon sights (like the EOTECH EXPS2 or 3).

Durability

The Trijicon Bright and Tough sights live up to their name— insanely tough.

These night sights are constructed with a metal body and silicone rubber cushions for high-grade durability.

The Bright & Tough sights’ aluminum cylinders protect the tritium lamps from heavy recoil. I’ve also done multiple drop tests and found no issues.

These sights were produced almost two decades ago and they still perform just as well as the day I purchased them.

Mounting & Installation

Installing the Trijicon Suppressor Night Sight Set is a breeze.

I currently have them mounted on my gen 5 Glock 19 MOS. The front sight takes a little bit of effort to get perfectly aligned and torqued but it worked great in the end.

Plus, they co-witness like a dream with my suppressor and Vortex Sparc red dot combo.

Additionally:

I bought a Safariland Hi-Ride Belt Loop Holster which has a built-in ridge to accommodate the suppressor height front sight.

Overall, I’m very happy with the entire configuration together.

Is the Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sight Set worth it?

Absolutely! The Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Set is an excellent choice when you’re running a suppressor on your Glock.

Why? It features:

• Unmatched durability
• Enhanced sight acquisition
• Long-lasting and bright Tritium night sights
• Compatibility with many Glock models

To top it all off:

The yellow tritium lamp has a warranty for 12 years and the orange lamp for 5 years from the date of original manufacture.

The Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Set may be more expensive but definitely a top choice by many Glock owners.

Speaking of top choices, check out my latest review on the best quick detach scope mounts!

3. AMERIGLO GL-506 Tall Black Serrated Suppressor: Best for the Budget

The AMERIGLO GL-506 Suppressor Set is the best sight for your money.

Before I made my purchase, I did some research and discovered rave reviews on these $45 sights.

I had to try it out myself! Needless to say, I’m impressed.

Here’s why…

Brightness

The AMERIGLO GL-506 performs well in high contrast/light conditions.

Why?

These aren’t night sights. They’re black suppressor height sights with no markings. They still work in lowlight conditions, but not like your tritium night sights.

The front sight post is serrated to reduce glare from sunlight. Also, the rear sight design allows easy, one-handed slide manipulation.

These iron sights are amazing for suppressor use, but here’s why I really like them:

The blacked-out front sight is exceptional for red dot use especially when combined with night vision. It reduces the clutter of your sight picture for simple front sight acquisition.

Many shooters find tritium night sights too distracting, especially in the dark. If you’re one of them, this will work wonders for you.

If not, you can also get the Green Tritium and Orange Outline Front with the Black Rear version.

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Durability

The AMERIGLO GL-506 sights can stand up to harsh conditions.

Made from machined steel, these sights are durable and reliable— regardless of what type of environment you’re shooting in.

Mounting & Installation

Installation is easy and took me about 10 minutes tops.

Make sure you drop a bit of Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker for security. Trust me, you don’t want your front sight coming off with recoil.

I installed the rear sight using the StarONE Universal Handguns Sight Pusher Tool with a plastic barrier and no markings occurred.

This sight set fits all Glock models (except 42/43). It sits at the right height and worked phenomenally with my 9mm suppressor.

It can also co-witness with red-dot sights like the Holosun 510c, the Vortex Strikefire II, or the Vortex Sparc.

Trust me: I tried them all.

Is the AMERIGLO GL-506 Tall Black Serrated Suppressor worth it?

Frankly, the AMERIGLO GL-506 sights are the best bang for your buck when you’re running a suppressor on your Glock.

Why? It comes with:

• Durable design
• Affordable price tag
• Low-light level capability
• Co-witnesses with many optics

The sights are backed up by AMERIGLO’s warranty. So long as you keep the receipt, you can easily request a replacement or repair. Also, their customer service is always A+.

Overall, the AMERIGLO GL-506 Serrated Suppressor is an excellent addition to any Glock MOS with a suppressor or any other red-dot-ready pistol.

Speaking of great additions: don’t forget to check out my latest Vortex Spitfire 3x review!

4. AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress: Best for Glock 17

The AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress is one of the best Glock suppressor sights I’ve used on the Glock 17.

In fact:

These sights worked so well, I shot 200 rounds easily on the day I tested it out on the range.

Let’s take a closer look…

Brightness

With the AMERIGLO GL-329, I have no problems shooting in low and no-light conditions.

The three-dot sight comes with white rings for daytime use & green tritium for low light detection and sight alignment. The large, bold dots make it easy to spot and grab the pistol at night.

The front sight is about .314” high and the rear sight sits at about .310”.

I haven’t had any issues personally but always check to make sure this provides enough clearance for your suppressor.

Durability

The AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress is built to last.

The sights are machined from bar stock steel and assembled with Swiss-made tritium. This combination results in ultra-durability and recoil resistance.

If you plan on using your Glock 17 for home defense and personal protection, the AMERIGLO GL-329 won’t fail you.

Mounting & Installation

Both front and rear sights took 15 minutes to install.

The package includes both the front sight and a standard, dovetail rear sight.

I marked the center of the stock sights on the slide with a pencil, then used a brass punch and hammer to drive out the old. I installed the new sights and aligned them with the previous mark I made.

Word of advice:

The front sight post does have some wiggle room, so double-check that you’ve got it straight before torquing to spec with the Loctite. Once they’re in, they’ll be secured without issues.

Also:

The top of the front sight is only visible at the very bottom of a Vortex Venom or Viper. If you intend to co-witness with the Vortex red dots, you may need to find taller suppressor heights.

Is the AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppressor worth it?

If you’re looking for a reliable and reasonably priced suppressor for your Glock 17, the AMERIGLO GL-329 is for you.

Why? It comes with:

• Low price tag
• Fits almost all Glocks
• Popular 3-dot configuration
• Excellent low-light performance

Additionally, the green tritium lamps are under warranty for 12 years after the date of manufacture and are guaranteed to last just as long.

If they do break, you can easily send them back with the company return form and AMERIGLO will replace or repair it. No questions asked.

With a combination of dependability and affordability, you really can’t go wrong with the AMERIGLO GL-329.

If you’re interested in more awesome handgun sights, check out my latest review of the best Walther PPQ M2 sights.

How to Install Glock Suppressor Sights?

One of the most common upgrades for Glock pistols is replacement sights.

If you install a suppressor or a red dot sight, you’ll most likely need a suppressor sight to shoot accurately— even if you’re using the best sights for the Glock 34.

So, here’s how to install the best Glock suppressor sights:

For the instructions below, I’ll be using the following tools:

• Front Sight Tool

• Rear Sight Pusher Tool

• Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker

• Gunsmith Punch Set

• Nylon Vice Jaws

Step 1: Disassemble

Safely disassemble your Glock pistols. Make sure your weapon is unloaded, remove the magazine, etc. Then remove the recoil spring and barrel so you only have your slide left.

Step 2: Remove Front Sight

Get your screwdriver and remove the bolt for the front sight.

Make sure you save your old sights. If something happens and you need to return or replace your new sights, you need the original set to put back on your pistol so it can still be serviceable.

I like to screw in the old bolt back into the sight. That way, I don’t mix up the screws.

What I mean is— most of the time, the screw that goes into the Trijicon sight won’t fit into the original Glock front sight.

Step 3: Remove Rear Sight

For removing the rear sight, you have two options: using a rear sight pusher tool or you could also use a hammer and non-marring punch.

I highly recommend using the rear sight pusher tool. With this, you can simply clamp the slide and rotate the “pusher” to gently slide the old sight off.

Step 4: Install New Sights

FRONT SIGHT

Place the new front sight on top of the pistol. Apply a drop of the Loctite onto the new screw. Make sure you hold the sight while tightening the nut.

If you tighten too much, you can damage the sight. Before fully tightening, ensure that the sight is straight so you can make adjustments as needed.

On a side note:

I just made an in-depth guide on the best way to do an AR-15 A2 front sight removal. I highly recommend checking it out!

Moving along…

REAR SIGHT

As with removing the rear sight, I recommend using the pusher tool to install your new sights.

Start by aligning the new sight on the slider, then clamp both the slider and sight down. You can then turn the screw on the “pusher” and move the sight into place.

If you don’t have a sight pusher:

Place the slide into the vice jaw. Stage the new rear sight into the dovetail on the left side of the slide. Once you’re able to get about half of the sight base into the dovetail, start to tap the sight in place with a hammer and non-marring punch.

Be sure you use moderate hammer strikes so as not to hit your slide or your fingers. Lastly, make sure the rear sight is aligned with the rear dovetail. You can typically eyeball it or use calipers.

By the way, if you don’t have a rear sight pusher, here’s a great video guide on how to remove and install your suppressor sights.

Properly installing your suppressor sights is key to accuracy, but having an excellent suppressor sight, to begin with, can reduce a lot of work and frustration.

There are many options on the market and scouting the internet for dependable ones can take a lot of your time. The good news?

I already researched, hand-tested, and listed the best Glock suppressor sights for your every need above 🙂

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best Glock suppressor sights guide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which suppressor sight will you pick for your Glock models? Or perhaps you already have one and would like to share your thoughts.

Either way, let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

FAQ:

Whitetail hunters and land managers have been playing around with the idea of food plots for nearly 40 years now. And admittedly, a lot of folks have become quite proficient at planting food plot crops that rival the best farm crops out there.

Even vegetable gardeners would have to be envious at the results seen by those deer hunters who are merely trying to provide the best food plot for the deer on their land.

This year, I’m back at it in our “Fallow to Fabulous” experiment. Last year’s success included two small food plot that were grown on land that hadn’t been farmed in over 15 years. I started out by killing (or attempting to kill) all of the weeds. Wasn’t real successful at that. But I was successful in getting those two plots to grow brassicas quite nicely. Yeah, I know that’s not a major accomplishment, because growing brassicas is fairly easy, even in sandy soils like we have here in central Wisconsin.

In any event, this year I’m back at it. In fact, this week, I (with all credit to my friends who have equipment) worked the plots and again got some brassica seed planted. I went back with the proven blend of Antler King Honey Hole. Honey Hole is a mixture of five unique varieties of brassicas, which include three varieties of rape, and two varieties of turnips. This blend provides an ideal plot for the fall and winter. After the first frost the plants go from bitter to sweet and the deer love them. In fact, we darn-near filled all of our tags during the early archery season while hunting over these plots. It was simply amazing to see deer flock to these plots after not having any real source of supplemental food for years. I know for a fact that it drew deer to our hunting property from a lot of the neighboring properties.

The Next Big Thing in Food Plots?

Both plots are relatively small (less than 1/4 acre each), and I used the same amount of Honey Hole when seeding the plots this week. However, I couldn’t help but be intrigued by a “newer” product that Antler King has been offering: Kale.

Yes, kale. That nasty leafy green they put on your plate when you order a sandwich at the restaurant. Yeah, yeah, I know some folks love kale, especially when it’s cooked with mashed potatoes, but I’ve alway found it kind of gross, to be honest. Bitter tasting (to me, anyway), and even though I know it has a ton of good nutrients in it, I’ve always shied away from including it in my salads.

Well, I’m not a deer, and I’m certainly not waiting around until late fall for it to “sweeten up.” Apparently, that’s exactly what kale does … because it IS another form of brassica!

I simply took 1/2 pound of the seed (way more than enough) and cut it with the Honey Hole seed I was planting. I don’t know of anyone who personally has planted a food plot of just kale, so I didn’t want to roll the dice on being all-in just in case the deer didn’t take to it right away. But after reading all of the information about this specific strain, I’m really intrigued as to how these plots will turn out. And we just received a good dose of rain, so this stuff should germinate before too long.

More About Kale Food Plots

Here’s a little more info on the seed itself from Antler King:

•Kale is a member of the brassica family and is extremely cold tolerant, easy to establish and provides a fantastic cool-season food source.

•Kale is packed with protein (20-30%) and vitamins and can produce up to 10 tons of forage per acre.

•Kale will grow best in cooler climates as the plant’s leaves will sweeten as the temps get colder.

•Like other brassicas, a frost will create a molecular change and further sweeten the leaves and increase attraction.

•Kale is best planted from July through October and works as a great fall and winter forage crop in the Southern U.S. and a summer, fall and winter forage crop in the North, Northeast, and Midwest.

•Kale prefers lighter soils; sandy, sandy loam or light clay and will perform best in a pH ranging from 5.5-7.0.

Kale Conclusion

So … I will keep my fingers crossed that these brassica plots flourish and the kale is something that helps improve them even more than last year. I will also report back with photos of the progress; and trail-camera photos and videos of any visitors we might get over the next several weeks.