Most backyards in North America have only one type of squirrel that you see regularly.

In northern and eastern regions, the two most common types are red and gray squirrels.

But if you’ve ever seen these two squirrels side-by-side then you know they’re really quite different animals! Not just in terms of size & appearance, but also in their behavior, habitat & even their diet.

So today let’s explore 8 key differences between red and gray squirrels in order to gain deeper insight about our backyard tree dwelling friends.

What’s the difference between red & gray squirrels?

To start off, take a look at this side-by-side comparison of a red squirrel on the left, and a gray squirrel on the right.

Let’s break down some things to notice about these two squirrels pictured above:

1. Color

On the surface, perhaps the most obvious difference between red and gray squirrels is their color.

Generally, red squirrels will all have this same reddish brown color shown above with very little variation. Red squirrels are a species of arboreal (tree dwelling) rodent that all have fur looking more or less identical to the photo above.

However it’s important to realize that gray squirrels are NOT always gray.

One of the big differences in gray squirrels from red squirrels is that they come in many different colors including gray, black & even shades of blond.

It’s important to realize these color variations are all part of the same species of squirrel, and can even be brothers and sisters in the same family.

This means color can be a good way to identify squirrels, but only if you remember that gray squirrel communities are multi-colored.

The basic idea is:

• Red squirrels are always red.
• Any other color is a gray squirrel (or possibly fox squirrel in overlapping ranges).

In most cases these rules will work, however, New York city is known to have a population of cinnamon colored gray squirrels, which could be confused with red squirrels if you don’t know the other differences.

So while color can be useful, it’s actually not the best way to identify red and gray squirrels in all cases.

So what’s the best way to identify them?

2. Size

In general, the best way to identify gray squirrels from red squirrels is by their size difference.

Gray squirrels are significantly larger than red squirrels. According to most sources, gray squirrels weigh in at a range of 400-600 grams, which is almost twice the size of the 250-330 gram red squirrels.

This size difference is very obvious just by looking at them, and is typically the fastest & most accurate way to identify squirrels in actual practice.

If you’re used to watching gray squirrels and then you suddenly see a red squirrel, their small size will really stand out to you.

Side note: If you live further south, it’s also important to know whether your area has fox squirrels which are even bigger than gray squirrels, and sometimes even interbreed with their populations.

3. Ear Tufts

Another interesting clue to help with squirrel identification is that red squirrels grow little tufts of hair on their ears during winter.

Ear tufts are a more subtle characteristic than the overall size & color, but it still gives us a bit more insight into their character.

In actual practice, you really don’t need to look at squirrels this closely to tell them apart but it’s a funny quirk and something to look for during the cold season.

4. Social Behavior: Communal vs Solitary Squirrels

A much deeper level of knowledge about squirrels comes when you go beyond identification and begin to study their behavior.

Here the differences become even more obvious because red and gray squirrels have vastly different approaches to how they interact socially with other squirrels.

So how do red & gray squirrels differ in terms of their behavior?

Gray Squirrels Are Communal Squirrels

Gray squirrels are generally considered to be much more community oriented than red squirrels.

It’s extremely common to see groups of gray squirrels all hanging out peacefully together in the same area. They share territories, food and sometimes even sleep together.

In many ways, this is really the biggest of all the differences between red and gray squirrels because red squirrels are not communally oriented at all.

Red Squirrels Are Territorial/Solitary Squirrels

Red squirrels in sharp contrast to gray squirrels are some of the most aggressively territorial animals on the planet.

They actively defend their territories, food caches & nest sites with a wide variety of loud vocalizations and visual displays of aggression.

This aggression begins quite early after the baby squirrels are born, and continues for the rest of their life. In this sense, red and gray squirrels really are polar opposites.

5. Habitat

Aside from some occasional overlap at the edges of different habitat types, gray squirrels and red squirrels also tend to occupy very different niches in their habitat.

Gray squirrels thrive in urban & suburban environments and typically prefer forests dominated by deciduous trees (like the oak & beech forests we discussed in a different article on mast trees).

Red squirrels tend to become dominant in more remote forested habitats that include a lot of coniferous trees such as spruce and fir.

For this reason, many people who live in cities have never actually seen a red squirrel, and might not even realize they exist in your area.

The quintessential “squirrel on a power line” is a gray squirrel in almost every case. In all my years living close to red squirrels I’ve only ever seen one use the power lines to move around.

6. Diet

The result (or perhaps the cause of their habitat differences) is that despite being very closely related species in the squirrel family, red and gray squirrels eat almost completely different diets.

Gray squirrels eat a lot of large fleshy deciduous nuts like acorns & walnuts, while red squirrels tend to horde the cones of coniferous trees like spruce and feast on the tiny seeds.

Both squirrels also take advantage opportunistically of hunting insects (and even eating bird eggs!) however the exact species they hunt will vary depend on the ecology of their chosen forest type.

I covered what squirrels eat in much more detail in another article.

7. Calls & Vocalizations

Red and gray squirrels each make their own distinct set of calls & vocalizations which can be used for identification and behavior interpretation.

Grey squirrels who are upset will make a raspy bark when predators are nearby. In some cases it sounds a lot like a small dog barking.

In the following video clip you’ll hear some gray squirrel barking and related alarm calls from nearby robins and other smaller birds.

The red squirrel sound is a combination of high pitched “TIP” sounds mixed with lower range “CHUCK” calls that are used in varying combinations for different situations ranging from predator alarms to territorial situations:

Because red squirrels are so territorial, overall they tend to make a lot more noise than gray squirrels.

Red squirrels also make a loud trilling scream and are generally make a lot more noise than gray squirrels who are less easily offended. You can hear this rattling “scream” call at the 20 second mark in the following clip:

I’ve written a lot more on this topic, so if you want to explore the nuances of squirrel language, go read up about why squirrels chatter and scream so much.

8. Interactions Between Red & Gray Squirrels

Another way to gain insight about these two common messengers of the forest is to look at how they interact where territories overlap.

If you ever find yourself lucky enough to live in a place that has both red squirrels and gray squirrels living in close proximity, this is an amazing opportunity to learn and study their differences.

This is where a lot of interesting questions come up to truly define the boundaries of what it means to be a red squirrel or gray squirrel including their breeding, cooperation and competition.

Can Red Squirrels And Gray Squirrels Interbreed?

Because these are two different species, red squirrels cannot interbreed with gray squirrels.

Even gray squirrels who have a reddish color to their fur are born from two gray squirrel parents. When you see these color variations, remember that size is still the key identification characteristic as explained above in point #2.

Why Are Some Squirrels Red/Black/Gray/Blond?

So if they can’t interbreed, then why are all these different color squirrels living together?

Why can a single family of squirrels include both gray, black and possibly even other colors of squirrels?

Well, this is very similar to genetic variation in red foxes which sometimes makes them black.

It’s the same as how human children can have different colored eyes or hair than their parents. It has to do with the genetic combinations and recessive genes.

As a ridiculous example, it’s a bit similar to why red hair in humans cannot be caused by having an orangutan for a parent… because humans cannot mate with orangutans.

Do Gray Squirrels And Red Squirrels Get Along?

In most cases, red and gray squirrels have such distinct niches in the forest that their territories and trails almost never overlap.

For this reason, even if you do see red and gray squirrels nearby in the same area, they typically co-exist quite peacefully.

It’s not so much that they get along, as much as they don’t have any good reason to get in each other’s way.

Do Red And Gray Squirrels Compete?

In general – red and gray squirrels do not directly compete because they occupy different habitat niches.

Red squirrels are more dominant in coniferous forests, while gray squirrels are more dominant in deciduous forests and cities.

In mixed forests, their territories can occasionally overlap, however, even in these situations they tend to use different trails and different food sources so it’s rare for this to cause problems.

Why Do Red Squirrels Chase Gray Squirrels?

In cases where their activity does overlap, typically red squirrels will be the more aggressive and likely to chase the gray squirrels.

Considering that they’re so much smaller, this can be a funny surprise to see the red squirrels acting aggressively towards gray squirrels. But it really just comes down to the fact that red squirrels are so much more territorial.

If you spend a lot of time in mixed or coniferous forests with high red squirrel populations then you know what I’m talking about. You’ve probably been yelled at by a squirrel or two in your days!

When it comes down to it, gray squirrels and red squirrels really aren’t competing over food, nesting sites or mates, so there’s no reason for them to be territorial other than the fact that red squirrels are very aggressive towards pretty much everything.

Go Look For These Differences Yourself!

So now all you have to do is go watch your local squirrels for yourself.

Making your own observations is really what brings the magic of nature to life.

• How many of these squirrel differences can you observe in your own backyard?
• Are you seeing signs of territorial or communal squirrel behavior?
• What else do you notice about your local gray and red squirrels?

Let me know what you discover out there, and happy squirrel watching!

Bob Jensen |

I like to go ice-fishing. And, I like to catch whatever I can catch through the ice. Walleyes, bluegills, crappies, bass…they’re all fun. But I also really like to catch perch and so do a whole lot of other ice-anglers. Fortunately, there are lots of outstanding places to catch perch across the Ice-Belt. Following are some ideas for catching perch (and most other fish) through the ice from the middle part of the ice-fishing season until the ice disappears.

You’ve Gotta Find’em

As always, first you’ve gotta’ find’em. “Pounding” is a good way to locate perch as well as walleyes. Drop your bait to the bottom, then pick it up so it’s just a few inches above the bottom. A spoon works well for “pounding”. If you have a depth-finder that enables you to see a certain zone, several of the Vexilar units incorporate this feature, set the unit so you can look at the zone just above the bottom. It’s easy to do and will really give you a good idea of what’s going on down there around your lure.

Now, on a tight line, allow the bait to fall so it hits the bottom. Do this 3 or 4 times, then lift the bait up 6-12 inches above the bottom and hold it there. The pounding action will attract any fish that might be in the area and they’ll come in for a closer look. They might eat, they might not, but at least you know that there are fish in the area. I prefer to “pound” the spoon with a tight line. If the spoon falls on a limp line, it can tangle up in the line. Fish usually don’t eat spoons that are tangled.

Presentation

If the perch are looking but not eating, you need to show them something different. Don’t change baits yet, just present it differently. Maybe move it faster or slower, but move it differently.

If the fish still don’t respond, we need to go to another color or maybe another type of bait. In the mid and latter parts of the ice-fishing season, the fish have seen a lot of baits. Try showing them something that maybe they haven’t seen as much of. Clam Tackle’s Pinhead Mino and Leech Flutter Spoons are a couple of relatively new baits that the perch have been liking. The eighth ounce size is a good place to start, but don’t hesitate to try the sixteenth ounce size if the fish don’t eat the bigger one. Go larger for walleyes. These spoons have become very popular in a short amount of time for finicky fish.

And, sometimes you have to go tiny for pressured perch or when the weather has them shut off. This is when you bring out the lightweight small stuff. My go-to setup for finicky perch or crappies has become a Sceptre light action rod with a spring- bobber. 3 pound test Floroice line is as light as I go. This size is nearly invisible, yet it’s plenty strong for most perch. A little Drop Kick or Drop Jig tipped with a spike or waxworm completes the package. I like to start with a heavier jig, but will go smaller if necessary. The spring-bobber on the rod will reveal even the lightest strike. Keep in mind, the weight of the jig will pull the bobber down a bit. If the spring-bobber goes down farther or goes up, a fish has eaten your bait.

Some of the best ice-fishing of the season is coming. If you keep these ideas in mind, your next few weeks of ice-fishing will be even more productive.

To see new and old episodes of Fishing the Midwest television, new and old fishing articles, and fishing video tips, visit fishingthemidwest.com and don’t forget to join us at Facebook.com/fishingthemidwest.

If you are looking for a new or pre-owned bass boat, you’ll find no shortage of popular bass boat brands available. These brands specialize in creating boats designed and equipped for bass fishing primarily in freshwater, but some are ready for the rigors of saltwater as well. Bass boats typically have a powerful outboard motor for fast access to where the fish are and a stealthy electric trolling motor to avoid spooking them once you arrive. The boats also include specialized fishing features like livewells, fish-finders, open decks for casting, and storage spaces for rods and tackle.

With the wide array of brands on the market, working out which type of bass boat may be best for you will take some study. This guide should give you a good start towards understanding the advantages of different types of bass boats and learning about the best bass boat brands on the market today.

Different Types of Bass Boats

Before we begin exploring the different brands, let’s talk about the big differentiator among bass boats, the construction material. Bass boats are usually made out of either fiberglass or aluminum, with some bass boat brands focusing on one or the other, and others utilizing both materials. Here are the advantages of each type.

Advantages of aluminum

• Aluminum hulls are lighter, making them easier to tow and launch, reducing draft, giving them a higher power-to-weight ratio, and making them some of the most fuel-efficient boats on the water.
• Aluminum construction is usually less expensive when it comes to small -boat models, including bass boats (which generally top out at around 22 feet), creating boats that are more affordable.
• Aluminum boats require minimal maintenance.
• Impact damage is usually easier to repair with aluminum, since it tends to dent instead of shattering or cracking.

More information: The Best Aluminum Bass Boats on the Market Today

Alumacraft Classic 165 Sport aluminium bass boat. Photo credit: Alumacraft

Advantages of fiberglass

• Fiberglass construction allows for more complex shapes in the hull and topsides, and more molded-in integrated features and components.
• The strength, weight, and seaworthiness of many fiberglass boats allow them to be used more comfortably in heavier seas and at faster speeds than than many aluminum boats.
• With more weight and a bit more draft, fiberglass boats tend to drift slower in a breeze and don’t get buffeted around as much at the dock or boat ramp.
• Fiberglass boats can be made in nearly any color desired, and most people feel they have more visual appeal.

Nitro Z17 fiberglass bass boat. Photo credit: Nitro

Popular Bass Boat Brands

We’ve chosen 10 top brands based on performance, reputation, and value. However, there are many other factors that might make a brand the top brand for you. The companies below offer a wide array of models, from boats that are affordable to top performers.

Bass Cat

Founded in 1971, Bass Cat is a small-volume builder of top-tier competition-level bass boats. All their models are available with a lifetime, transferable structural warranty.

Bass Cat offers six models of bass boats in their Premium range, two models in their Advantage range, and two in their Vision range. Their models have long lists of standard features that go well beyond the norm and include items like dip -net scabbards, digital switch panels, jack plates, and custom welded and fitted trailers.

Bass Cat bass boats for sale

Crestliner

Crestliner has won CSI (Customer Satisfaction Index) awards for 15 consecutive years for its boats, and the company’s aluminum bass boats are considered some of the best in the industry. Crestliner bass boats have all-welded aluminum hulls for strength and durability and back up their boats with a limited lifetime warranty on all main seam welds and a three-year bow-to-stern warranty.

Crestliner offers a wide variety of bass boat options for anglers, ranging from 16 feet to 21 feet, inches in length. Power options range from 20 horsepower to 250 horsepower. Their high-end offerings are tournament-ready and are built with 0.125” gauge aluminum, as opposed to the more common 0.10” gauge.

Crestliner bass boats for sale

Crestliner XF 189. Photo credit: Crestliner

Lowe

Lowe builds aluminum boats only and has a reputation for making highly versatile bass boats with multiple power and interior options. Customization options include a multitude of innovative fishing features and style choices such as different electric trolling motors, fishfinders, and jack plates.

Lowe currently offers two series of boat models for bass fishing. The economical Skorpion line has three models available from 16 to 17 feet. The Stinger line includes four models dedicated to bass alone, plus two multispecies models, and ranges from 17 feet, 7 inches, to 19 feet, 10 inches. All feature angling accouterments like lockable rod storage, livewells, fish-finders, and tournament-style seating.

Lowe bass boats for sale

Lowe WV1260. Photo credi: Lowe Boats

Lund

In business since 1948, the Lund brand is extremely popular with people who know a lot about boats. This boatbuilder uses innovative layouts to create bass boats that use space efficiently without sacrificing comfort.

Lund’s aluminum boat line includes two bass boat styles between 17 feet, 9 inches and 20 feet, 10 inches long. One, the Pro-V Bass XS, is a premium-priced boat designed for tournament fishing that has all the features an angler could want, including a four-seat layout with hydraulic steering, lighted instrumentation, and a custom fiberglass console and dash. The more affordable Renegade line includes smaller, simpler models intended for crossover fishing for multiple species.

Lund bass boats for sale

Lund 1875 Pro V Bass XS. Photo credit: Lund Boats

Nitro

Nitro is a top brand among fiberglass bass boats and its Z series has nine different models from 17 feet, 4 inches to 21 feet, 2 inches, widely ranging in both price and performance. All are sold as fully equipped boat-motor-trailer packages, and the vast majority of the options Nitro offers are upgrades to existing stock equipment.

Many of their models include high-tech electronics with features like side-scanning not just at the helm, but also on the bow. And these are often networked via NMEA2000, so units like the fishfinders and the trolling motors can work in sync.

Nitro bass boats for sale

Nitro Z18. Photo credit: Nitro

Ranger

Founded in 1968, the Ranger brand is a household name in the world of bass boats and has a reputation or creating boats that are built to last. The company makes a wide range of bass boats, both fiberglass and aluminum, to appeal to various types of anglers.

Ranger’s aluminum bass boat line has six models. Each one offers foam-filled hulls, all-welded construction, and numerous fishing features. Their fiberglass lineup has 11 models from 18 feet, 8 inches to 21 feet, 9 inches.

Ranger bass boats for sale

Ranger Z519. Photo credit: Ranger Boats

Skeeter

Skeeter is a bass fishing -boat brand that has been in business for 75 years. The company designs tournament-worthy, high-end bass boats from 18 feet, 6 inches, to 21 feet, 4 inches. They come with an eye-opening lifetime limited structural warranty, a 10-year transferable warranty, and a three -year component warranty.

These are not inexpensive boats, and even in stock form are outfitted with powerful outboards, advanced electronics, jack plates, and potent electric trolling motors. You’ll have a difficult time finding any bass fishing features you can dream of that doesn’t appear on their list

Skeeter bass boats for sale

Skeeter FXR20 Apex. Photo credit: Skeeter Boats

Tracker

Tracker has taken the top spot as America’s No. 1 seller of aluminum fishing boats by offering a wide selection of affordable boat models through the popular Bass Pro Shops and Cabela’s Boating Centers, as well as additional area dealers. Made with all-welded aluminum hulls, Tracker boats come packed with fishing features like a Lowrance color fish-finder, pedestal seating at the bow and stern, and Minn Kota trolling motors.

Tracker offers a lineup of six modified-V bass boats ranging from 16 feet, 8 inches to 18 feet, 7 inches. Tracker models come with generally modest price tags and most don’t offer tournament-level performance, but they are packed with standard features and offer a tremendous bang for the buck.

Tracker bass boats for sale

Bass Tracker Classic XL. Photo credit: Tracker Boats

Triton

Triton builds a wide range of fiberglass bass boats from 18 feet, six6 inches to 21 feet in length. These are tournament-level boats and the newest, the 2024 20XP Patriot, boasts speeds of over 70 mph. Triton utilizes a double-brace, seven -cross-member stringer system to reduce hull and deck twisting and attain top-level performance.

Along with the top-tier performance, Triton brings a visual flair to the table. Their boats are available in 14 different color packages which are coordinated with the trailer. They also feature high-end accessories, like Centric II mesh pedestal seats, ResQ retractable reboarding ladders, and Vault trailer hubs.

Triton bass boats for sale

Triton 21XRT. Photo credit: Triton Boats

Xpress

Xpress boats build a line of eight aluminum bass boats from 17 to 21 feet, ranging from tournament-level to beginner boats. While they come fairly well equipped, a huge list of optional items allows for a lot of customization ranging from blinker-style trim control to premium sound systems with RGB lighting.

One unusual component of the Xpress bass boat offerings is the Xplorer lineup, which is designed to serve as a bass fishing machine during the summer and a waterfowl hunting boat in the winter. It has a basic bass boat design but a smaller foredeck coupled with an enlarged cockpit, and is finished completely in camo.

Xpress bass boats for sale

Xpress X21Pro. Photo credit: Xpress boats

If you love bass fishing, there’s no doubt that sooner or later there will be a bass boat in your future. Just which one you choose will be a tough call. Maybe it will be one of the top 10 brands we’ve called out here, and maybe a smaller builder or a custom make that strikes your fancy. Either way, it’s a sure thing that once you make your choice your bass fishing will get a whole lot better.

Disclosure: We may get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Among the strongest and most reliable ATVs ever produced is the Kawasaki Prairie 650. This mean machine, launched in 2002, dominated the off-roading scene and introduced many firsts to the public – defining the sport-utility sub-segment in the process. It was one of the most successful off-road vehicles of its time, earning the “Design and Engineering Award” in Popular Mechanics and being highly regarded by ATV magazines and publications.

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 goes down in ATV history as the world’s first mass-produced quad to sport a V-Twin power mill. Apart from its monstrous 633-cm3 engine, this award-winning 4×4 boasts a variable limited-slip front differential, impressive powerband, and industry-leading features.

One of Team Green’s breakthrough machines, the Kawasaki Prairie 650, started a whole new era of high-standard behemoths – its massive torque making it a force to be reckoned with (literally!). No wonder it has inspired the creation of other iconic Kawasaki quads. Read on and learn more about the capabilities and evolution of this off-road legend.

The King of Firsts

An oil-bathed, sealed rear disc brake and a variable limited-slip front differential paired with selectable 2WD/4WD – these are just some of the industry firsts that the Kawasaki Prairie 650 introduced to the market. These features may be puny for some (in today’s standards). But two decades ago, only a handful of well-engineered ORVs had these luxuries – and the lime-green wheeler was one of them.

Initially conceptualized as a utility quad, the Prairie soon morphed into a sport-utility four-wheeler to cater to the increasing number of riders gravitating toward dual-purpose, big-bore machines.

Launched as a 650-class ATV, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 soon upgraded to a 697-cm3 power mill in 2004. The Prairie left the Brute Force lineup to carry on the slightly smaller engine displacement for a little while – as the said series eventually released the Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i five years after.

Whether it be the 650- or 700-class trim, both big-bore machines had dual carbs and shared almost similar vehicle dimensions. Undoubtedly, this uncanny resemblance between the two is why most consumers confuse one with the other.

Performance

This high-performance wheeler is unquestionably bulletproof. However, tight wooded trails and rough terrain are not the most suitable for this big-bore machine. The topography adversely affects the performance of its suspension system. In these environments, the Prairie falls behind its counterparts in soaking up bumps and ripples. Owners can always equip their 4x4s with Rear Shocks.

But since the front suspension is non-adjustable, it would be challenging for the quad’s suspension system to be fully optimized.

Conversely, the four-wheeler can soar through straight-line acceleration on grass tracks and straightaways. Steep engine-draining trails and mountains also become playgrounds for this beast – thanks to its differential lock, twin-carburetor setup, and unrelenting power.

In truth, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 can slice through these settings’ most technical portions with ease – but in the hands of a highly-skilled driver.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Specs & Features

Engine

Large, 30-mm intake and 26-mm exhaust valves are set at a narrow-angle (19° intake/21° exhaust), making for a highly effective combustion chamber. A high-quality foam air filter and dual Keihin CVKR-D32 downdraft carburetors lend to the vehicle’s fuel efficiency and smooth throttle responsiveness. (TIP: When cleaning the fuel tank, never use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to avoid potential dangers of fire or explosion.)

Drivetrain

A dual-range automatic KAPS (Kawasaki Automatic Powerdrive System) CVT transmission, inclusive of the Kawasaki Engine Brake Control system and a reverse, handle the shifting. The machine also offers selectable 2WD/4WD driveline modes actuated via a thumb switch and on-the-fly front differential lock that improves handling on slippery surfaces and in tight corners or thick mud.

Ignition

The KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release), paired with an electric-recoil starting system, makes starting the Prairie 650 a breeze. A cigarette-style DC outlet at the handlebar base and a trailer-type connector at the rear provide quick, accessible power for electronic accessories.

At some point, you would need to swap out stock batteries. If so, a Kepworth KP14-BS 12V LiFePO4 Battery (view on Amazon) would be a good replacement – it is leak-proof and has a low self-discharge rate.

Tires & Brakes

Dual front hydraulic disc brakes fitted with dual-piston calipers and enclosed oil-bathed multi-disc rear disc brakes provide stopping power. This brake system mates to a Kawasaki-exclusive Engine Brake Control system that electronically observes ground speed and uses engine compression to slow the quad down.

Suspension

Minimal differences can be observed between the Prairie 360 and this machine’s suspension components since the former is an exact carbon-copy of the latter. The caster angle and rear suspension wheel travel were improved a bit, while the rest remained unchanged.

Dimensions

While the Prairie 650 weighs the same as its smaller-displacement sibling, this 4×4 has a larger trailer weight and carrier capacity. The curb weight is 294.06 Kg/648.3 lbs – merely 5.0 lbs more than the Brute Force 650.

Exterior

Unlike Team Green’s 300-class four-wheelers, the Prairie 650 did not fall short on instrumentation. A multi-function meter comes standard across all trims and year models. Adjustable footpegs atop full footboards make long trail rides enjoyable. The saddle comfortably sits taller riders. Plus, the machine’s tubular space frame allows owners to personalize their wheelers with aftermarket Kawasaki Prairie 650 parts and accessories.

K-EBC™ (Kawasaki Engine Brake Control)

The K-EBC™ system enhances the quad’s brake systems with the engine’s additional braking force. Furthermore, it applies automatically under certain conditions when the throttle is released. This feature is ideal for use when descending steep declines, becoming an added safety measure that keeps the speed of the Prairie safe regardless of the type of terrain, rider skill level, or operating conditions.

However, note that the K-EBC™ is best as a supplemental braking system at low speeds (between 3-20 km/h) and does not work in reverse.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Pricing

The table below shows the list price of all Kawasaki Prairie 650- and 700-cc models and trims released from 2002 to 2006 (Source: Nada Guides):

Surprisingly, auction listings are slightly higher than retail pricing and range from $775 to $4,510. Resale units are mostly 2002-2003 models – vehicle conditions vary depending on the year, trim, and upkeep done by the previous owner. Typically, pre-loved Prairies have 8,000 miles, 430 to < 1,900 hours, and with no title.

Rare finds, on the other hand, are freshly overhauled and come with a recovery winch like Mile Marker 77-53120W Premium Sealed Electric Winch (view on Amazon) or aftermarket wheels/tires. If you want to be guaranteed a Prairie in near-mint condition, be prepared to spend at least $2,800 for a secondhand unit.

Known Issues of the Prairie 650

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 4×4’s service manual contains troubleshooting steps that would solve most of its common problems. But for more persistent challenges, you need to visit forums and other Kawie community sites to get specifics on how to resolve them. Here are some of the machine’s more prevalent issues and their corresponding fixes:

Cold-starting Hiccups

If the Kawasaki Prairie 650 quads had one major setback, that would be a specific functionality of its monstrous V-Twin engine. This powerplant retards the vehicle’s ignition until it reaches a certain RPM, leading to a difficult engine startup – particularly on a cold February morning.

If you are a long-time Prairie owner, you would know that the choke is used more frequently during cold weather. Otherwise, you may want to check if the under-seat valve is turned on or if there is any obstruction in the petcock valve, causing possible fuel starvation.

Faulty K-EBC™ and 2WD/4WD Actuators

The engine brake system and driveline actuators of the Prairie 650 are quite an upset for Kawie riders, as they are not known for their durability. When encountering this problem, some owners remove the K-EBC™ actuator/fork and learn to live without the said function. Others choose to remove the 2WD/4WD actuator, modifying it to have a choke cable setup to run manually.

However, addressing the issue entails more than just pinning the blame on the actuator/controller alone. Defective electrical components could also cause the problem, such as:

• Shorted/Open speed sensor
• Forward/Reverse gear detecting a shorted/open sensor
• Controller (10 Amp) fuse blown
• Disconnected battery

Leaking Oil Seals

Engine and front/rear differential oil seals on the Kawasaki Prairie 650 tend to leak. Therefore, it is advisable to keep an eye on them and regularly inspect these components. Oil seal lips that are misshapen, discolored, or hardened indicate rubber deterioration and warrant immediate replacement. The same goes for oil seals that are visibly damaged or dried out.

Veteran owners do not recommend jumping while in 4WD, as this also aggravates the leaking problem. It would also be wise to check other things like degraded valve gaskets, damaged driveshaft/axles, and oxidation on the shaft and other metal surfaces. Quads that have sat for a while are also more likely to have this problem than those frequently used and properly maintained.

Weak Choke Springs

First-year Prairie 650 carburetors had flimsy choke springs that caused gasoline to fill the engine when not in use. Similarly, post-2002 models had sticky choke plungers that resulted in poor idling. The permanent fix for this issue was to replace the stock choke springs with a later-model-year variant.

Turning off the petcock valve when the quad is not in use also helps, especially before trailering or storage (and for extended periods). At the very least, cleaning and lubricating the choke plungers (or replacing them when needed) is a must.

Other Problems

• MacPherson Strut springs are too soft for fast-paced riding.
• Airbox snorkel and CDI are too restrictive.
• Swingarm bearings and rear secondary clutch wear out prematurely.
• The fuse box connections are prone to corrosion.
• The stock radiator fan breaker (a.k.a. buss connector) tends to malfunction.
• Mounting bolts on the rocker arm shaft tend to loosen, potentially causing catastrophic damage to the motor’s top-end.

Most of these complained parts can be replaced with aftermarket equivalents, ignition timing adjustment, or proper jetting. Others are resolved or prevented through religious upkeep of the machine and avoiding over-the-top activities.

Do not worry – sport racing, serious mudding, and ripping through the dunes are not prohibited. But please, do these in moderation. And remember to clean your four-wheeler thoroughly after every ride.

About Kawasaki

Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. is a prominent institution in the ATV landscape and maker of industry-leading vehicles like the Kawasaki Prairie 650. The Japanese firm was founded in 1878 and traces its humble beginnings to being a part supplier for shipping businesses.

Since then, this world-renowned manufacturer has ventured into other transport industries and grown into massive production of transit, aerospace and energy systems, hydraulic machinery, motorcycles, off-road vehicles, side x sides, and personal watercraft.

Conclusion – Kawasaki Prairie 650 Review

One thing often overlooked about high-performance quads like the Kawasaki Prairie 650 is that they require a certain level of maintenance and care. What all riders must realize is top-caliber 4x4s are usually the most finicky. Therefore, flimsy parts or factory-assembly flaws are not always responsible for wear and tear. Driving conditions and not rider behavior have more of an adverse impact on the longevity of our vehicle.

All in all, this highly-acclaimed trail beast is a dream to ride. Its smooth but monstrous power delivery, low-range torque, well-designed chassis, and other best-engineered mechanisms only prove why present-day off-road icons took inspiration from this big-bore machine. If you want a four-wheeler that can conquer slow-crawling sections as well as high-altitude areas, then look no further than the hardworking and timeless Kawasaki Prairie 650.

How It All Began

The Labrador Retriever was developed in Newfoundland to help early settlers hunt and fish in the cold, northern climate. There was only one type of dog.

This was the case until around the 1940s, when showing dogs became more popular. Two types of Labradors were then bred for.

The traditional Lab continued to be developed for its working abilities. They have more energy and more drive, and they have a slimmer build that enables them to be more agile. This type of Lab is called the American. They excel at hunting and taking part in field trials.

The new Lab in town was developed from the traditional and bred for appearance and to excel in the show ring – these are known as English Labs and are not particularly bred for work.

The British Lab is somewhere in-between!

Let’s dig a little deeper to find out more!

The Athletic American Labrdor retriever

If you’re looking for a working Labrador, look no further than the American. They were specifically bred to hunt and later to perform well in field trials. It’s worth noting that a A good American lab will have Field Trial Champions in his pedigree.

Even though English and British Labradors can do well as working dogs, the American lines are Olympians in that arena and performance-tested to excel.

So, what are the traits of a working wonder dog? If you look at the photo above, compared to an English Lab, you will see:

A slim body with a narrower head. A longer, rangier, harder body. Outstanding natural balance and athleticism. More endurance and an excellent attitude towards accomplishing goals. Higher energy. Better at motion exercises and works well with handlers to accomplish complex tasks such as retrieving – and very sensitive to handler direction. Tough dogs that run through briers and bush without thinking. Not smarter than English labs, but recognize patterns more quickly. They are very active and constantly looking at their owners to do fun things with them. They live for activities such as kayaking, dummy retrieving, swimming, running after or riding four-wheelers, and more! “On the go” dogs that will retrieve until they fall over. Owners must keep an eye on them so they don’t overexert themselves. Have trouble being still, and calm, attentive behavior and good manners need to be trained but they take very well to training.

The American Labrador retriever is best for an active and fit family. Or use the American Lab to be your highly successful hunting partner.

The Picture-Perfect English Labrador

Roll out the red carpet for these gorgeous dogs. English Labradors are selected for their show-stopping looks to appear in movies and on TV ads. And they’re definitely more likely to win an Oscar than master an Olympic sport!

English Labradors were bred from the working Labrador lines to perform well in the show ring and dazzle us with their good looks!

So how does the English Lab differ from the American?

English labs are also called Show Labradors, so their name gives us a clue! They have a sturdier build than the other lines, with a heavier, blockier head, shorter, stubbier legs, bigger feet, broader chests, and squishier, cuddlier bodies. As a result, they’re considered prettier than their working cousins and not usually performance-tested. It’s a look that people just can’t resist! They’re pretty chill, and after morning exercise or play, they’re ready to lie down and rest. They have more trouble with physically and mentally demanding activities. After a few rounds of retrieving, these regal dogs are happy to leave continued exercise to their working dog pals! English Labradors are very food-oriented and are easily trained with treats. Show them something yummy to eat, and they’ll put a lot of energy into getting that food, at least in the beginning stages of a training session. While they’re excited about food, they can’t do many reps because their shorter, stockier physique makes it harder for them to deal with the heat. They are calmer than the Americans with better manners and attention spans but have an off-switch and do not need as much exercise.

English labs are much better for less-active families or those that want everyone to compliment them on their dog’s movie-star looks!

The Lesser-Known British Labrador

You won’t be surprised that British Lab lines are often confused with English Lab lines. Despite the name, British Labradors are actually European imports coming from European hunting lines. If you study their pedigrees, most of them come from Ireland, Scandinavia, and France. What do we know about the British Lab?

Their body shapes and temperament are between American and English lines. However, they are working dogs bred more in line with the traditional Lab. We value them for their excellent work ethics, intelligence, and good off switch. They have a strong desire to hunt but are calmer like the English Labs and not highly strung. Great gundogs – they’re all about adventure but calm enough to be service dogs. Some Labrador breeders proudly brag that they’re “masters in the field but gentle in the house,” which might be the best way to sum them up.

What All Labs Have In Common

Labrador Retrievers are widely regarded to be the most popular dogs in the world. And it’s easy to see why.

Intelligent, funny, family-friendly, easily trainable, loving and loyal with an intense desire to please, although they have their differences, ALL Labs share these wonderful qualities.

Of course, it’s a trade-off when it comes to Labs. Each type is a Lab through and through, and the only differences lie in what they do best.

People love English Labs because of how they look and don’t need as much exercise. Hunters and active families will look to the American. The British might be perfect for others.

Any Lab will enhance your life; you just need to find the one that best suits your pack!

Silver labs

Silver labs are often offered as something rare or special. Well’ they are no labs! They are crosses between a lab and a weimaraner and should be sold as such. Not only is their coat different, so is their behavior and conformation. Well, weimaraners are nice dogs too but no one is marketing a labradoodle as purebred. On the east coast they are sold as “Georgian Bay Sporting Dog” or “Georgian Bay Retriever”

Videos

Below some videos with Stonnie Dennis.

He explains in detail the differences between the lab lines.

He also has plenty of great training tips.

English vs American Labrador Retrievers Part 1

English vs American Labrador Retrievers Part 2

Duck hunting, a tradition passed down through generations, merges skill, patience, and technical prowess. At its heart lies the choke — an often-underestimated piece of equipment. The choice of choke can significantly influence the success of a hunt. Here’s an expanded guide to help you navigate this decision.

Understanding Choke Constrictions:

Cylinder (CYL):

• Constriction: None.
• Spread: Maximum shot dispersion.
• Usage: Ideal for very close range like upland bird hunting or home defense.

Skeet:

• Constriction: Very slight.
• Spread: A bit tighter than a cylinder but still quite open.
• Usage: Designed for skeet shooting where targets are close and crossing.

Improved Cylinder (IC)

• Constriction: Light.
• Spread: Offers a moderate spread.
• Usage: Versatile for upland bird hunting, close decoying ducks, or early stations in sporting clays.

Light Modified (Light Mod):

• Constriction: Between IC and MOD.
• Spread: Narrower pattern compared to IC.
• Usage: Slightly longer shots than IC, good for varied scenarios in both hunting and clay sports.

Modified (MOD):

• Constriction: Medium.
• Spread: Tightens the spread considerably.
• Usage: A go-to for many hunters; it’s versatile for medium-range shots. Commonly used in trap shooting and for waterfowl over decoys.

Improved Modified (IM):

• Constriction: Between MOD and FULL.
• Spread: Even tighter pattern.
• Usage: Suitable for longer range shots in waterfowl hunting, late stations in sporting clays, and handicap trap shooting.

Full:

• Constriction: Tight.
• Spread: Concentrated pattern with minimal dispersion.
• Usage: Long-range shooting, turkey hunting, and long-distance waterfowl shots.

Extra Full/Turkey:

• Constriction: Extremely tight.
• Spread: Maximum pellet concentration.
• Usage: Designed primarily for turkey hunting where headshots at longer ranges are the norm.

Additional Points:

• Pattern Density:

This refers to the concentration of pellets in a given area of the pattern. The tighter the choke, the denser the pattern in the center.

• Shot Strings:

Tighter chokes might result in longer shot strings, meaning the pellets reach the target over a slightly longer time span.

• Material Compatibility:

Ensure your choke is compatible with the shot material you’re using. For example, not all chokes are designed for steel shot, which can be harder on chokes than traditional lead.

• Safety & Maintenance:

Always ensure your gun is unloaded before changing a choke, and regularly inspect and clean your chokes for optimal performance.

Scenario-Based Choke Selection:

Early Season, Over Decoys:

• Scenario: Ducks are less wary and more likely to come in closer to your decoy spread.
• Best Choke: Improved Cylinder (IC) or Skeet.
• Why: It allows for a wider shot spread at closer ranges.

Timber Hunting:

• Scenario: Hunting in flooded timber or swamps, where shots are usually sudden and close.
• Best Choke: Improved Cylinder (IC).
• Why: Quick shots at close ranges require a more open pattern.

Mid-Season, Open Water:

• Scenario: Hunting on larger bodies of water or where ducks are more spread out.
• Best Choke: Modified (MOD).
• Why: A balanced choke that provides a versatile pattern for varied shot distances.

Late Season, Wary Ducks:

• Scenario: Ducks have been hunted for a while and have become more cautious, often staying at longer distances.
• Best Choke: Full.
• Why: Provides a tighter shot pattern for those longer shots.

Pass Shooting:

• Scenario: Shooting at ducks flying overhead or at a considerable distance.
• Best Choke: Improved Modified (IM) or Full.
• Why: You need a tighter pattern to ensure a successful hit at long ranges.

River or Stream Hunting:

• Scenario: Hunting in narrow waterways where shots can vary from close to somewhat distant.
• Best Choke: Light Modified or Modified (MOD).
• Why: Offers flexibility for a mix of shot distances.

Hunting with Steel Shot:

• Scenario: Many areas require a non-toxic shot, and steel is a common choice.

• Best Choke: Generally, one constriction is more open than you’d use with lead. For example, if you’d typically use MOD with lead, use IC for steel.

• Why: Steel doesn’t deform like lead and often patterns tighter. Hence, a more open choke can give you a similar pattern with steel as a tighter choke would with lead.

Fast & Agile Ducks (e.g., Teal):

• Scenario: Hunting smaller, quicker ducks that often come in fast and change direction suddenly.
• Best Choke: Improved Cylinder (IC) or Skeet.
• Why: The wider spread compensates for these birds’ fast, unpredictable movement.

Hunting Over Spinning Wing Decoys:

• Scenario: Using motorized, spinning-wing decoys to attract ducks.
• Best Choke: Modified (MOD).
• Why: Ducks tend to flare just before landing, giving a slightly longer shot that the MOD choke can handle efficiently.

Coastal Sea Duck Hunting:

• Scenario: Hunting in vast coastal waters where sea ducks tend to be further out.
• Best Choke: Full or Improved Modified (IM).
• Why: Longer shots over open water demand a tighter pattern for effectiveness.

Puddle Ducks vs. Divers:

• Scenario: Hunting in areas where both puddle ducks (like mallards) and diving ducks (like canvasbacks) are present.
• Best Choke: Light Modified or Modified (MOD).
• Why: These chokes provide a good middle ground for both close-in shots on puddle ducks and longer shots on divers.

Late Season, Snowy or Rainy Conditions:

• Scenario: Weather conditions can affect visibility and the flight pattern of ducks.
• Best Choke: Improved Modified (IM).
• Why: IM provides a tighter pattern that can be beneficial when landing shots in less-than-ideal visibility.

Using Heavier Than Lead Loads (e.g., Tungsten):

• Scenario: Using high-density shot like tungsten, which patterns more tightly than steel.
• Best Choke: One step more open than usual; if you’d use Full for steel, use Improved Modified (IM) for tungsten.
• Why: Tungsten’s density allows it to maintain energy and pattern tightly, even with a more open choke.

Chasing Wounded Ducks:

• Scenario: After an initial shot, sometimes ducks are wounded and glide a long way before settling down.
• Best Choke: Cylinder (CYL) or Improved Cylinder (IC).
• Why: For finishing off wounded ducks on water or ground, you don’t need a tight pattern.

Additional Considerations:

Duck Calls & Choke Coordination:

If you’re skilled in calling ducks and can consistently bring them in closer, you might opt for a more open choke.

Double-Barrelled Shotguns:

For those using over-under or side-by-side shotguns, consider a combination of chokes. For example, an IC in one barrel for the first, closer shot and a MOD or IM in the second for a potential follow-up at a longer distance.

Adaptability:

While starting with a certain choke is good, always carry a choke tube wrench and a few different chokes with you. Ducks can be unpredictable, and being able to adapt to changing situations can make a big difference.

Pattern Test:

Whenever you’re trying a new choke or ammunition type, it’s a good idea to pattern-test your shotgun. This will give you a clear picture of how your gun, choke, and ammunition work together.

Safety First:

Always ensure your firearm is unloaded before changing chokes. And ensure the choke is appropriately seated and tightened.

Versatility:

If you’re unsure of the exact scenario you’ll face, the Modified (MOD) choke is a good middle-ground choice for many duck hunting situations.

Factors Influencing Choke Choice

Shot Material:

Non-toxic steel shots act differently than traditional lead. Steel retains its shape more, so often a more open choke is needed compared to lead for the same pattern.

Shot Size:

#4 or #5 might be optimal for ducks, but remember, smaller numbers indicate larger pellets, influencing spread and energy.

Gun Barrel Length:

Longer barrels often produce slightly tighter patterns. While the choke is more influential, barrel length can’t be ignored.

Weather Conditions:

Wet conditions can affect how wads (that hold the shot) behave. Wind, too, can shift patterns. Adapt based on the day’s forecast.

Maintenance and Adaptability:

Choke Rotation:

If you hunt in diverse environments, consider rotating chokes. Some hunters swap at midday based on changing duck behavior.

Cleaning:

Residue buildup can alter constriction. Regular cleaning post-hunt is crucial.

Visual Inspection:

Always check for dents or damage. A damaged choke can harm both the gun and the shooter.

Safety & Best Practices:

• Never Force a Choke: If it’s not threading easily, recheck to avoid cross-threading.
• Choke Markings: Familiarize yourself with the markings on your chokes. Most manufacturers engrave the constriction type on the choke.
• Listen and Observe: Talk to fellow hunters and observe the patterns of the ducks. Sometimes, real-time adjustments based on collective experience can be beneficial.

The Role of Shooting Techniques:

Swing & Lead:

Your choke choice should align with your shooting style. A wider spread might be better for those who ‘swing through’ the bird. A tighter spread can be effective for those who maintain a constant lead.

Follow-through:

This is essential for successful shooting. A tighter choke may require a more disciplined follow-through to ensure accuracy.

Duck Species and Behavior:

• Teal and Wood Ducks: Being agile and fast, these often require a more open choke like IC.

• Mallards and Pintails: These bigger birds might be best approached with a MOD or even IM for longer shots.

Ammunition Velocity:

High vs. Low Velocity: Faster shots (high FPS) might tighten your pattern. If you’re shooting high-velocity rounds, consider if you need to adjust your choke.

Equipment Compatibility:

Matching Choke to Gun: Ensure your choke is compatible with your shotgun. Using a mismatched choke can be dangerous.

Environmental Considerations:

Terrain Awareness: In terrains with tall reeds/grasses, shots might typically be upward, requiring lead changes and possibly choke choice.

Water Reflection: On sunny days, glare from the water can affect visibility. Consider how this may affect your shot placement.

Advanced Techniques:

Double Chokes:

Some advanced hunters use a dual choke system when hunting with over-under or side-by-side shotguns. If needed, this allows for a quick follow-up shot with a different spread pattern.

Feedback Mechanism:

• Pattern Testing: Regularly testing your shot pattern on paper targets can give insights into how your chosen choke behaves with different ammunition.

• Adapting Mid-Hunt: Don’t be afraid to switch chokes if you observe your first few shots are ineffective. Use those moments as feedback.

Hunting Ethics:

Wounded Birds:

It’s our responsibility to reduce wounded birds. You might be shooting too far if you notice many birds getting winged but not downed. Consider a tighter choke or holding off until they’re in range.

The Human Factor:

Experience Level:

Beginners may benefit from a more forgiving, wider spread choke like IC, while seasoned hunters can fine-tune their preferences based on nuanced experiences.

Reaction Time:

Some hunters have lightning-fast reflexes while others are methodical. Knowing your personal speed can inform your choke choice.

Gun Specifics:

• Barrel Smoothness: Over time and use, the inside of a shotgun barrel can develop microscopic roughness or even larger imperfections. This can influence the shot pattern.

• Shotgun Age: Older shotguns, especially antiques, may not be designed for modern chokes or steel shots. Always ensure compatibility.

External Factors:

• Air Pressure & Altitude: Higher altitudes can affect shot spread due to thinner air. It’s a subtle effect but one that dedicated hunters might consider.

• Temperature: Cold can make gun oil viscous. This, in turn, can influence shot speed and, by extension, shot spread.

Hunting Partners:

Team Coordination:

If hunting in a group, coordinating choke choices can be effective. For instance, one hunter can use IC for closer birds while another is prepared with a FULL choke for distant shots.

Technological Advancements:

• Choke Adjusting Tools: Some modern chokes can be adjusted in the field without completely swapping them out, allowing dynamic responses to changing scenarios.
• Smart Chokes: Emerging technologies might offer chokes that adjust based on detected range or even species of the bird.

Holistic Strategy:

• Decoy Setup: Your choke choice should complement your decoy strategy. A wider spread is essential if your decoys are set for close encounters.

• Hunting Blind Placement: Your hideout’s location concerning expected duck flight paths can dictate shot distances and thus choke choices.

Constant Learning:

• Hunt Reflection: After each hunt, assess what went well and what didn’t. Were there many missed opportunities due to choke choice?

• Hunting Logs: Maintain a journal of hunts, noting down choke choice, weather conditions, duck species encountered, and successes/failures. Over time, patterns may emerge that can guide future choices.

Environmental Respect:

Habitat Preservation: Understand the habitat you’re hunting in. Sometimes it’s best to move to a different spot if the area shows signs of over-hunting, even if it means reevaluating your choke choice.

FAQ’s

Conclusion:

Duck hunting is as much a science as it is an art. Each factor, from the minutiae of shotgun maintenance to the broader strategy of the hunt, plays its part in the overall experience. The choke, in its silent, steadfast role, offers both challenges and rewards. By considering all these facets, hunters not only elevate their chances of success but also deepen their connection to the age-old tradition of the hunt.

Today I’m going to show you the best .300 AAC Blackout Rifle.

In fact:

I’ve hand-tested over 20 guns alone for this review.

The best part?

I’ve sorted each rifle by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need the best 300 Blackout rifle, you’ll find it here.

Let’s dive in!

The 4 Best .300 AAC Blackout Rifle

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 300 blackout rifles:

1. Springfield Armory Saint: Best Overall .300 AAC Blackout
2. IWI Tavor X95: Best for CQB
3. Wilson Combat AR-15 Ranger: Best .300 Blackout Rifle for Hunting
4. Daniel Defense DDM4 V7P 300 Blackout: Best for Home Defense

1. Springfield Armory Saint: Best Overall .300 AAC Blackout

For AR lovers, the introduction of the AR-15 pistol brought a euphoric excitement on par with winning your first superbowl. Not that I’ve ever won a superbowl.

But I HAVE mistakenly shouted, “I’m going to Disney World!” after pulling my first shiny AR pistol out of the box.

So, does the Springfield Armory Saint .300 AAC Blackout induce such thrilling feelings? Let’s check out if this pistol is a total whiff or a game-winning touchdown…

Accuracy

At the 50-yard line, the Saint was putting up impressive groupings of less than half an inch.

The 1:7” twisted barrel didn’t seem at all phased by repetitive shooting, so the heat didn’t warp the metal and throw off my accuracy one bit.

For the close-range shooter, this 300 blackout pistol is fast and sharp as a tack. Exactly what you need for home defense.

Take it out another 50 yards, and it was still giving me groups around 2 inches, which is what I expected from an AR pistol.

After polling prospective shooters, SA decided to forego built in sights, but the top rail is plenty big for your favorite red dot.

(I’ll cover essential optics and accessories in a bit).

Reliability

Made with aircraft-grade anodized aluminum, the receiver extension and upper assembly are built to last.

Pair that with the indestructible steel barrel and bolt coated in a Melonite finish, and you’ve got one sturdy .300 AAC blackout pistol.

Once I got my ammo figured out, I put hundreds of 300 Blackout rounds through this Saint with no problems. It WAS finicky with some subsonic cartridges that caused a few frustrating misfeeds.

After I put on my suppressor, though, it was back to smooth sailing.

The Accu-Tite Tension System on the lower receivers made movement negligible.

Meaning less friction, more usable years on the weapon. Also, the stock was well-built and comfortable.

All in all, for a close-range home defense weapon, you want it to be reliable and durable.

The SA Saint certainly did the job in these categories.

Handling

One of my favorite ergonomic features of this pistol was the well-textured grip.

The Saint is fitted with a Bravo Company Mod 3 grip that has built-in storage that’s perfect for the adjustment hex or a small bottle of oil.

Even though the barrel didn’t seem affected by the heat of excessive shooting, holding this 300 blackout pistol after many rounds did have me wanting a glove.

The M-LOK handguard and Carbine “H” Heavy Tungsten buffer were well-placed and made the Saint fun and comfortable to shoot.

Trigger

I was impressed with the SA Proprietary trigger that comes standard on a Saint.

No take-up and a crisp break.

The nickel boron coated GI style was usable at about 6 and a quarter pounds of pull and had a nice Bravo Company trigger guard.

The reset had a distinctive “click” that some might find obnoxious, but I thought it added a level of ease to firing that made it that much simpler to reflex fire without too much thought.

Magazine/Reload

The SA Saint Blackout pistol comes with a sleek 30-round Gen M3 PMAG that is the top choice for many AR marksmen.

I found that the PMAG dropped easily from the well and the release was very convenient to access with my firing hand.

Length/Weight

One of the most compact options out there, the Saint has an overall length of 27.25 inches while still sporting a 9-inch barrel.

It’s about mid-range in weight for an AR pistol, coming in at about 5 and a half pounds. Even fully loaded, I found that it was an easily manageable 7 pounds.

Recoil

The excellent SB Tactical SBX-K brace makes for amazing recoil control in this 300 blackout. I hardly noticed any kick and saw virtually no muzzle rise.

If you’re looking for a soft-shooter (a rare find among .300 Blackout weapons), then the Saint is one of the best out there.

Ammo and Accessory Recommendations

My best groups came when using Remington UMC .300 AAC Blackout 120 OTFB and Hornady 300 Blackout 125 HP for higher velocities.

BUT these 300 blackout rounds didn’t seem like they were going to work WITHOUT A SUPPRESSOR.

That said, you’ll want to fit your Saint with something like the GemTech HVT-QD Tactical 300 BLK suppressor. Once I fitted this GemTech to my 300 AAC pistol, it shot beautifully without any issues.

Also mentioned above, the Saint doesn’t come standard with a sighting system.

So, to put up your best shots, I’d recommend attaching an Aimpoint Pro which makes target acquisition a breeze.

Price and Special Features

One of the best things about the Saint is the excellent price.

It retails for around $989.

Featuring the Direct Impingement Pistol-Length Gas Port with an adjustable gas block, the Saint can be tuned without altering the buffer, spring, or barrel.

A nice feature that most AR pistols don’t have.

Another unique feature is that beautiful brace we talked about before.

The SB Tactical qualifies this slick-shooter as a pistol, making it legal in places that otherwise would be hitting you with a fat $200 tax.

Is the Springfield Armory Saint Worth It?

If you’re looking for a compact, reliable, soft-shooting AR-15 pistol, then look no further than the Springfield Armory Saint .300 AAC Blackout.

Let’s look at a replay of the MVP features:

• Durable
• Light recoil
• Great for home defense
• Close-range groups under a half inch
• Excellent brace

So, if you want to get in the AR pistol game for a great price and put mega accuracy, reliability, and size points on the board, then suit up with the SA Saint .300 Blackout… TOUCHDOWN!

2. IWI Tavor X95: Best for CQB

Picture this:

You’re a tactical specialist storming an enemy bunker in the sweltering Middle Eastern heat. Suddenly, a bogie pops around the corner armed to the teeth. Do you panic?

Of course not. You’ve got the most reliable, best close-quarter rifle this side of the continent. You quickly take aim, get off a few smooth rounds, target down. Now repeat indefinitely. No misfires, no thought.

Now, how would you like to hold a weapon like that in your hands? Good news: You can!

Let’s take a look at the powerhouse bullpup, IWI Tavor X95…

Accuracy

This pup is a beast at close range.

While bullpups aren’t traditionally known for their long-range accuracy, the X95 was putting out sub-2-inch groupings at 100 yards. Get even closer (25-50 yards) and I was getting five-round groupings of less than an inch.

The 1:7-inch twisted barrel with 6 grooves gave me a nice, tight shot.

What’s more? It comes fitted with built-in tritium front and iron back sights that conveniently fold right into the upper assembly.

You can’t get a better close-range 300 blackout bullpup than the X95.

Reliability

This weapon will stand the test of time.

Why? It’s got a long-stroke gas piston system that makes it ultra-durable, a high strength polymer stock, and a cold hammer-forged barrel.

After 500 rounds, the X95 showed no signs of wear and had no issues of any kind.

Handling

Balance is where this 300 blackout semi-auto really shines.

The balance point and charging handle are closer to your body and made it comfortable to shoot repetitively.

It was very easy to transition between targets, field strip, and perform all necessary shooting functions with my support hand. This weapon was perfect for close-quarter shooting.

My only encountered awkwardness was with the placement of the pistol grip that caused finger slippage behind the trigger.

Trigger

The X95 did have a heavier trigger pull weight around 7 and a half pounds.

Like most bullpups, the pull felt long, but the reset was more crisp than many pups I’ve fired.

Not the best trigger you’ll pull, but certainly not the worst!

Magazine/Reload

This Tavor model comes with a 30-round, 3rd Generation MagPul PMAG.

It took some practice to get the reload down (standard for a shooter who’s used to AR-15’s), but once I did, the placement of the well and ambi button made for flawless reloading.

If you have a go-to magazine for your AR’s other than a MagPul, the X95 does take any STANAG magazine.

Length/Weight

One of the best things about this 300 AAC blackout was the compact size.

It’s got a barrel length of 16.5 inches and an overall length just over 26 inches. It was a bit heavier than your typical AR, weighing in at 7.8 pounds.

For the shooter who’s looking to fire in tight spaces (like home defense), the compact feel of the X95 was preferable to a standard AR.

Recoil Management

Talk about smooth shooting…

The X95 had virtually zero felt recoil.

It’s not a heavy caliber weapon to begin with, but throw in the long-stroke piston system and thick rubber buttpad and you’ve got great recoil management with minimal muzzle rise.

I could definitely tell this 300 blackout gun was made for the combat-ready soldier who doesn’t have time to mess with a choppy rifle.

Ammo and Accessory Recommendations

While the X95 I shot was chambered in 300 Blackout, you can also get it in 5.56 NATO (try HPR 60 grain V-Max) and in 9mm.

I found the heavier the round, the more accurate shots, so I’d stick with higher grain 300 ammo.

As far as accessories, if the built-in sights aren’t your style, check out the Aimpoint Micro T-2 red dot. It was easy to attach to the picatinny rail and upped my accuracy significantly.

I’d also recommend a trigger upgrade if you can hack it. I like the Super Sabra pack made by Geissele as it has a smoother and lighter pull.

Price and Special Features

You can pick up the X95 for a retail price of around $1,999 at most gun shops.

The compact size and long-stroke piston gas block system are the standout features of the X95.

It’s also unique in that it is significantly shorter than an AR, but the full-length barrel makes it non-NFA. What does that mean for you?

No annoying $200 tax!

Is the IWI Tavor X95 Worth It?

So, with the higher price tag, is the X95 worth the investment?

After shooting this compact 300 blackout powerhouse, I can confidently say…

“Absolutely!”

It’s one of the best choices for combat shooting as well as close-quarters home defense. Here’s why:

• Reliable
• Compact
• Well-balanced
• No extra taxes
• High polymer stock

Overall, this Israeli-made AAC blackout bullpup is a durable, well-balanced soft-shooter.

If you’re looking to take out short and mid-range targets with a high-quality 300 blackout rifle that’ll feel like it’s made just for you, then don’t miss your shot at the IWI Tavor X95.

3. Wilson Combat AR-15 Ranger: Best .300 Blackout Rifle for Hunting

Wilson Combat makes some of the most innovative, reliable, and deadly specialty weapons in the market.

But their AR-15 Ranger series may exceed even a die-hard Wilson fan’s expectations with its lightweight build and razor-sharp precision.

Let’s check out how this incredibly accurate, compact power-house will make you one of the deadliest predators in the field…

Accuracy

The Ranger is a precision paradigm.

Wilson boasts that this rifle has the lightest match-grade barrel on the market, making for extremely fast transitions between targets.

And I’d have to agree.

In speed drills, I was clocking my fastest times with my smallest groups ever in part because the taper of the aluminum barrel is incredibly light and maneuverable.

But chances are for hunting, you’ll need more accuracy within the 100 yard mark and less speed. So, I walked out to 100 yards and was pleasantly surprised at my 1.3-inch 5-shot groups.

I’d feel more than confident taking the Ranger out for whitetail, bear, and hogs.

Reliability

Nearly every component of the Ranger is mil-spec and MP inspected.

Not to mention the corrosion-resistant NP3 coating on the bolt and hard-anodized receivers coated in a super sturdy Armor-Tuff finish that make this rifle weather and wear-proof.

I pulled my Ranger straight from the box and put about 500 rounds through without incident.

Then, without lubricating a thing, I put through 500 more.

I’m not sure how long I could’ve sat there plinking, but after 1000 rounds the smooth action and sturdy hardware felt like they’d barely taken a hit.

This rifle will last as long as you need and is reliable enough for any length of hunting excursion.

Handling

With a midsize Wilson SLR click-adjustable gas block, the Ranger can be fine tuned to work best with whatever ammo you’re shooting.

This adjustment capability added an extra push to the already-comfortable rifle.

One thing I did find strange about the Ranger was the stock. It has such exceptional receivers, bolts, and hardware, that I didn’t expect to pick it up and feel cheap plastic.

That may have just been a first impression, though, because even later that day I couldn’t even notice the tacky-feeling stock.

Trigger

Here’s where I was sold on the Ranger.

The single-stage Tactical Trigger Unit had virtually zero take-up, no slack, and a distinct reset.

What’s more?

This trigger pulled crisp and clean right at a light 4 pounds.

Magazine/Reload

The Ranger ships with one standard 30-round magazine that clips into the well like just about every other AR.

Reloads were fast and easy, though I did scare away a few squirrels close by with the audible “click” as I snapped in the mag.

Since most AR-users want more than 30 rounds to work with, I’d recommend grabbing a few extra mags to keep in your bag.

Length/Weight

Virtually every metal component of the Ranger is made from lightweight billet aluminum, making it a reasonable 8 pounds.

With a barrel length of 16 inches and overall extended length of 36.5 inches, this rifle is easy to maneuver in thick brush as well as ground blinds.

Recoil Management

There wasn’t much kick to this rifle.

The Rogers Super-Stock buttstock absorbs a lot of the recoil and also features a unique locking mechanism to reduce movement.

Price and Ammo Recommendations

The Wilson Combat Ranger retails for $2300.

But, you get every ounce of what you pay for in a lightweight, accurate, and reliable precision machine.

The Ranger has a few caliber options, but my favorite is the .300 Blackout for its power and economy.

Here are my favorite rounds for the Ranger:

• Hornady 110 gr GMX Full Boar: Designed for deeper penetration and higher weight retention, I love this round for quick, clean kills.
• Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr: Some of my best groups were with this Winchester round that was specially made to take down deer. This round fed smoothly and maintained a ton of power downrange.

Accessory Recommendations

The Ranger comes with a 10-inch MLOK rail and covers so that you can attach your favorite optics, lights, or accessories.

It also comes with a threaded muzzle fitted with an awesome Q-Comp muzzle brake.

Here are some of my favorite other add-ons for the Ranger:

• EOTech EXPS3-0 Red Dot (Night Vision Compatible): I love this red dot for its large FOV that allows me to shoot with both eyes open. Plus, it’s night-vision compatible and has a quick-detach lever.
• Wilson V3 Ultralight AR Scope Mount: To keep your rifle as light as possible, I’d go with this durable, lightweight mount that securely attaches your optic.
• Viking Tactics Wide Quick Adjust Sling: This heavy-duty sling will stand up to just about any weather conditions and makes carrying my Ranger silent and comfortable.

Is the Wilson Combat Ranger Worth It?

The Wilson Combat Ranger is my favorite .300 Blackout AR-15 to take out mid to large size game.

Here’s why. It’s:

• Lightweight
• Compact
• Accurate
• Reliable

For the best groups, highest durability, and happiest shoulder in the field, I trust no other AR-15’s apart from the Wilson Combat Ranger.

4. Daniel Defense DDM4 V7P 300 Blackout: Best for Home Defense

Daniel’s Defense, headquartered in Black Creek, Georgia, has rapidly become a top of the line weapons manufacturer.

Producing the famed DDM4V7 rifle, Daniel’s Defense has now produced an AR pistol variant – the DDM4 300 Blackout Pistol.

Let’s break it down the specifics.

Accuracy

The DDM4V7 is a highly accurate blackout rifle designed to be used for competition shooting.

(Speaking of competition shooting, if you’re into long-range shooting, check out this guide on the best .338 lapua rifles).

The barrel is an in-house fabricated, cold hammer-forged 5.56 barrel with 1:7 twist, manufactured from 4150 CV ordnance steel.

While certainly a shorter range weapon than its rifle predecessors, the .300 Blackout is most certainly a highly accurate weapon.

In fact, I’ve shot over 100 rounds while maintaining 2” (or less) groupings. Seriously. The accuracy is spot on.

Reliability

The DDM4 300 is INSANELY reliable.

In fact:

I’ve yet to experience any malfunctions or jams – despite shooting over 200 rounds through a variety of handloaded ammo.

How is it that reliable?

For starters, the lower and upper receiver are forged out of 7075 T6 aluminum. The spring and bolt are both manufactured to MILSPEC standards. And the bolt itself is high quality 158 Carpenter steel.

In other words:

The Daniel Defense DDM4 is built to last.

Handling

The DDM4 is lightweight and pleasant to handle, without the sharp projections that sometimes come with other AR platform models.

Weighing in at a 5.44 pounds and measuring at 28.5 inches, the DDM4 can be moved with ease, making it a great option for sport shooting, target shooting, and self defense.

The grip, hand guards, and enlarged trigger guard is easy and comfortable to handle.

The collapsible butt stock is backed by a rubber inlay where it meets the cheek, gripping well and preventing sliding during firing.

My one complaint with the butt stock is that the rubber can sometimes grab beard hair. However, this is a minor inconvenience at most.

Trigger

The trigger is very light.

It’s a straight bow Geissele Automatics Super Dynamic system that allows an easy pull, minimizing the chances of yanking the gun to the side while shooting.

Magazine & Reloading

The DDM4 300 ships with a standard 30 + 1 round magazine.

The gun itself works with all standard STANAG 4179 compliant magazines. Which means you’ll almost certainly be able to use your other AR-15 magazines with the DDM4.

As said before, the DDM4 comes with the proprietary flared magazine well, making reloading quick and easy.

This is a blackout rifle that will not be difficult to reload in a high pressure situation — including self-defense or competition.

Length & Weight

The 300 Blackout is 28.5 inches long and only 5.44 lbs.

Part of what makes this weapon special is that it is considered a pistol.

In other words, it does not require ATF approval or a tax stamp to get your hands on it.

The LAW Tactical folding stock adapter means that the weapon’s length can be reduced even further, making this a prime weapon for close quarters encounters.

(A plus if you’re in law enforcement).

Recoil Management

The DDM4v7 does an excellent job of making recoil almost non-existent.

The pistol-length gas system paired with the length of the weapon means that the barrel won’t be climbing as you shoot.

Furthermore, the rifle comes equipped standard with Daniel Defense’s own “Muzzle Climb Mitigator,” a legal flash-hider.

Shooting this weapon is not like firing off an old 30-06 hunting rifle where your bruised shoulder will remind you that you’ve been shooting.

The recoil is pretty much zero.

Price

I’m going to admit:

The DDM4V7 .300 Blackout is an expensive weapon, costing between $1,729 to $2,016.

With many decent AR-15 variants being priced around $800, the price tag may come as somewhat of a shock.

In fact:

You certainly can get an AR-15 or AR pistol that works well for a cheaper price. However, you might encounter some reliability or accuracy issues.

That’s not the case with the DDM4V7. It’s highly accurate and reliable, and the price reflects that.

Recommended Accessories

The DDM4V7 .300 Blackout AR pistol comes with a full length MFR 9.0 rail that runs the full length of the gun.

Which means, you can upgrade this bad puppy with sick accessories. I’d recommend attaching a Nightforce NXS 2.5-0X42. Or an EOTech sight.

Is the Daniel Defense DDM4V7 Worth It?

If you’re looking for one of the best 300 AAC blackout, then the Daniel Defense DDM4 is for you.

It has great accuracy, fantastic handling, and fault-free function. In addition, its low weight and short profile makes it ideal for close quarters engagements.

In short: the DDM4 is a high quality 300 blackout rifle with high quality parts.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best .300 AAC Blackout Rifle guide.

So as a recap:

What is the best 300 Blackout pistol? I highly recommend the Springfield Armory Saint.

What about CQB? Then opt-in for the IWI Tavor X95.

Looking for a .300 hunting rifle? Get the Wilson Combat AR-15 Ranger.

Lastly, if you’re looking for the best home defense 300 blackout rifle, then the Daniel Defense DDM4 V7P is what you’re looking for.

All of the 300 blackout rifles above are tried and tested. I’ve fired hundreds of rounds through them and have experienced no problems whatsoever.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which 300 AAC blackout rifle will you pick?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

California monarchs

Q: Are there two populations of monarch butterflies in California?

A: The bottom line is that it’s unclear, but we continue to track the research, as we are responsible for their conservation and successful migration.

In addition to the declining population of migratory western monarch butterflies, scientists are seeing an increase in resident monarchs that breed year-round. Resident monarchs have been reported in higher numbers in coastal areas from San Diego to the San Francisco Bay Area. Historically, the migratory monarch population overwintered in coastal groves from October to March. During the rest of the year, monarchs migrated and bred throughout states west of the Rocky Mountains. In the past, winter breeding may have occurred at a low level. However, over the past few years it has expanded concurrent with the decline of the migratory population. A 2021 scientific study estimated that there were approximately 12,000 resident monarchs — more than six times the remaining migratory population.

Scientists are currently looking into which factors are influencing the transition to year-round breeding. One hypothesis is that the expansion of nonnative tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) in home gardens may induce winter breeding. Climate change could also play a role as warmer winter weather exposes monarchs to temperatures that can cause them to break reproductive diapause early.

It is unclear whether resident monarchs represent a separate population from the migratory population or if there is intermixing. If they are distinct populations, questions remain over whether the resident and migratory populations can persist side by side. Finally, scientists are still trying to determine if the transition to year-round breeding represents a persistent trend or is a short-term adaptation to local conditions.

As a trustee agency, the California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) is tasked with protecting California’s flora and fauna, including terrestrial invertebrates like monarch butterflies for their ecological value and enjoyment by the public. California Fish and Game Code (FGC) section 1021 directs CDFW to “take feasible actions to conserve monarch butterflies and the unique habitats they depend upon for successful migration.”

Turkey hunting guides

Q: I’m a fairly inexperienced turkey hunter but I’m interested in learning more this fall. Other than word-of-mouth, do you have any suggestions on how (and where) I might find a good guide?

A: Yes! CDFW maintains a list of licensed guides for both hunting and fishing. You can find the list on our website, and sort by services offered, species targeted and/or county, as well as by name or permit number if you’re looking for a particular guide. Guided hunts are often worth the investment for new hunters – you’re paying for their shared knowledge and experience, and it greatly increases your chances of a successful outing! Good luck!

Lake and streambed alteration

Q: My neighbor is dumping dirt in the creek by our home. Is this legal?

A: It might be. California Fish and Game Code (FGC) section 1602(a) requires notification to CDFW of any activity that would substantially alter the bed, bank or channel of a river, stream or lake, or dispose of material where it could enter into a river, stream or lake. Therefore, it would be illegal for your neighbors to alter the creek bed by your home without notifying CDFW. CDFW requires a Lake and Streambed Alteration (LSA) Agreement when a project activity may substantially adversely affect fish and wildlife resources. For more information, please visit CDFW’s LSA Program online.

FGC section 5650 outlines prohibitions on water pollution including discharge of any of the following into California waterways:

(1) Any petroleum, acid, coal or oil tar, lampblack, aniline, asphalt, bitumen, or residuary product of petroleum, or carbonaceous material or substance.

(2) Any refuse, liquid or solid, from any refinery, gas house, tannery, distillery, chemical works, mill, or factory of any kind.

(3) Any sawdust, shavings, slabs, or edgings.

(4) Any factory refuse, lime, or slag.

(5) Any cocculus indicus.

(6) Any substance or material deleterious to fish, plant life, mammals, or bird life.

If you believe you have witnessed an environmental crime, you should document the incident(s) via CalTip: wildlife.ca.gov/Enforcement/CalTIP. Other agencies, including local government entities, the Regional Water Quality Control Board and Army Corps of Engineers, to name a few, may also have legal authority over these activities.

Bag vs. possession limit

Q: What’s the difference between a bag limit and possession limit? Is the possession limit always double the bag limit?

A: “Bag limit” is defined in California Fish and Game Code (FGC), section 18 as the maximum limit, in number or amount, of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles or amphibians that may lawfully be taken by any one person during a specified period of time. “Possession limit” is defined in FGC, section 19 as the maximum, in number or amount, of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles, or amphibians that may be lawfully possessed by one person.

The answer to your second question is no, the possession limit is not always double the bag limit. Possession limit and bag limit are frequently different, so it’s crucial to consult the appropriate regulations for the fish, game or other species you are attempting to take. As an example, during waterfowl season the daily bag limit is seven ducks. The possession limit for ducks is triple the daily bag limit so a hunter can legally possess 21 ducks.

CDFW Photo

The antlers of a Union County bull elk have been officially scored at 406 6/8, which would make it the second-place record for a typical Rocky Mountain elk in Oregon.

The bull’s skull and antlers were found by a cone collecting crew on private timberland in the Catherine Creek Unit during the summer and turned in to ODFW.

Mark Penninger, a certified scorer for Northwest Big Game Records Inc, officially scored the elk in early November after waiting the required 60 days.

(An animal must undergo a minimum of 60-day drying period before it is officially scored as skulls and antlers will shrink some after their first “green” score immediately after harvest or pick-up.)

“Bull elk of this caliber are incredibly rare in Oregon but it’s great to see that they are still around,” said Penninger, who described the antlers as “jawdropping.”

“This bull is testament that age, good genetics, and high-quality habitat can produce truly world class elk,” he said.

ODFW does not track trophy records but will be submitting the score to Northwest Big Game Records for official placement.

Northwest Big Game Records is one organization that keeps records of game animals including both those that are harvested by hunters and those that are found dead.

(In Oregon, due to poaching concerns, it is unlawful to possess or transport found dead game mammals or their parts, except for naturally shed antlers or certain parts when salvaging roadkill.)

The last time an elk with typical antlers scoring higher than 400 was found or harvested was 1984 by Randy Ryerse in Crook County, an elk now bumped to the #4 record with a 400 0/8 score.

The #1 Rocky Mountain elk was a 418 2/8 bull taken in Crook County in 1942 or earlier and attributed to Hugh Evans.

Until now, the second largest was a bull taken in Grant County by Jim Sproul with antlers measuring 401 1/8. This bull was displayed in the John Day Elks Lodge until it was lost in a fire when the building burned down, according to Penninger. The bull had the longest main beam of any bull anywhere for a long time, he says.

With this Catherine Creek elk, the top four Rocky Mountain elk will all score higher than 400. After that, antler scores drop into the high 300s.

The two Tafts

The top 10 for typical Rocky Mountain elk still includes “Taft,” a Wallowa Lake bull that was scored at 391 4/8 for a typical Rocky Mountain elk in 1930. This bull is ranked even higher in the non-typical category-it’s the No. 3 state record with an official score of 411 0/8.

“In fairly rare cases, an animal meets minimum qualifications for both typical and non-typical categories for the species,” said Penninger. “Typical scores subtract non-typical points.” (Learn more about how elk and other big game are scored by listening to this week’s Beaver State Podcast with Penninger.)

According to David Morris of Northwest Big Game, this record setting bull is often mixed up with another one of the same name (both are named after William H Taft who served as U.S. President 1909-1913). But there were actually two different Rocky Mountain elk that came to be called “Taft” in northeast Oregon in the early 20th century.

While historic records indicate elk were abundant in the Wallowa Mountains and Blue Mountain Plateau, market hunting had reduced numbers to a few small herds by the late 1800s/early 20th century, so elk were transplanted into the state to restore the population.

(The Oregon Legislature provided protection for elk in 1899 by making it illegal to sell meat from wild animals and by closing elk season from 1909 through 1932, and the Rocky Mountain elk population has since rebounded to more than 70,000 today.)

The first “Taft” was one of the original elk relocated from the Jackson Hole area to Oregon in the early 20th century. In 1912, 15 elk from Wyoming were released at Billy Meadows in Wallowa County followed by another 15 in 1913, and one of those was the first “Taft.”

The first Taft’s shed antlers are still displayed at the Enterprise Elks Lodge. Sheds from the second Taft (the 1930 record-setting bull) were displayed at La Grande’s Elks Lodge and are now at the Baker City Elks Lodge, according to Morris. Their antlers look different.

Morris spent several years researching the two Tafts and the story about what he found is in his book (The Record Book for Oregon’s Big Game Animals, 6th Edition).

Based on his research, Morris says the second Taft was likely one of a handful of elk born in one of the enclosures at Billy Meadows where the transplanted elk lived for several years; the fences were taken down in 1922.

ODFW hopes to eventually display the Catherine Creek bull’s record antlers in one of our offices and thanks taxidermist Brody Turner for working with us to get them ready for display.

See https://www.nwbiggame.com/top_10.cfm for Rocky Mountain elk and other big game records.