UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

The Carolina rig is a classical rig that’s been around for more than a century, and is used regularly by bass anglers.

But what many beginners don’t know is that you can use it equally well for catching walleye, and since it’s one of the easier rigs to set up, it’s a great choice if you’re new to walleye fishing.

In this article we’ll show you how to set up the Carolina rig for walleye, as well as the best tactics to catch lots of walleye with it.

What is a Carolina rig?

The Carolina rig is one of the simplest rigs for walleye fishing. Basically, it consists of a sliding sinker riding on the main line, and a swivel tied between the main line and leader.

At the other end of the leader is either a hook (for live bait), or a jig head baited with a grub trailer.

Carolina rig for walleye vs bass – what are the differences?

If you’re a bass angler, chances are that you’re already familiar with the Carolina rig, which is one of the most popular rigs for bass fishing in the summer.

But it’s important to note that there are several key differences in how this rig is used for bass versus walleye.

The Carolina rig for bass is most often used with a casting rod and reel setup, and the sliding sinker is 1/2 oz or heavier (up to 1 oz or even more).

In contrast, a Carolina rig for walleye is fished with a lightweight spinning rod and reel setup, and the sinker is usually 1/4 oz or less (most often 1/8 oz).

So it’s fair to say that a Carolina rig setup for walleye is a finesse version of the same rig used for bass.

How to tie a Carolina rig for walleye

Tying a Carolina rig for walleye is very simple. You’ll need the following components:

• 7’ to 8’ medium light spinning rod
• 2000 size spinning reel
• 10 – 12 lb test braided main line
• 8 lb test fluorocarbon leader
• 1/8 to 1/4 oz sliding sinker
• Plastic bead
• Size 5 barrel swivel
• Size 6 hook (or medium sized jig head baited with grub tail)

Start by spooling your spinning reel with the braided main line, and then set it up on the rod with the line threaded through the line guides.

Then thread the sliding sinker on to the main line, followed by the plastic bead. After this, tie the main line to the barrel swivel. In case you’re wondering why you need the plastic bead – it stops the sinker from getting stuck on the knot.

Next, tie the fluorocarbon leader to the other eye of the swivel, and then tie either a hook or a jig head to the other end of the leader. The length of the leader should be at least 18 inches, but can be longer (up to 3 feet).

How to use a Carolina rig for walleye fishing

Since walleye are bottom dwelling fish, using a Carolina rig is a great way to present your bait to them just above the bottom.

If you’re using live bait, the simplest method is to cast out the Carolina rig to an area where walleye are likely to pass by on their foraging patrols. Great places for this are the drop off areas of structure, like underwater islands, mud flats, or points.

After you cast out your Carolina rig, you can place the rod in a rod holder and wait for a bite, which is good if you’re fishing with multiple rods. Alternatively, you can slowly retrieve the rig.

If you’re using a jig head baited with a grub tail, you need to retrieve it actively after every cast, to entice walleye to bite the lure.

The advantage of this approach is that you can cover more ground that way. Of course, you can also use both approaches in parallel, by using multiple rods.

When retrieving a jig on a Carolina rig, let the sinker sink to the bottom regularly, as this will stir up sediment, and call in curious walleye to investigate.

Most walleye anglers like to use a floating jig head combined with a Carolina rig, since that way the jig floats about 1 foot above the bottom, where walleye are more likely to notice it than sitting right on the bottom. This is the most popular method used to catch walleye on the Maumee river.

The only problem with using a floating jig head on your walleye rig is that bites can be very subtle, which means you need to learn how to sense these bites via the smallest tugs, nudges, and other signals coming through your line.

This is why we recommend using a braided main line, since it doesn’t have stretch, and therefore transmits everything straight to the rod and reel.

Lindy rig vs Carolina rig – which one is better for walleye fishing?

If you take a look at our detailed walleye rigging guide, you’ll notice that the Carolina rig is very similar to the Lindy rig, which is another classical walleye rig.

So what’s the difference between them? While both rigs are almost identical, the Lindy rig uses a sliding Lindy weight, while the Carolina rig uses a sliding sinker instead.

In contrast to the round shape of a sliding sinker, a Lindy weight has an elongated stick shape, and comes with a wire extension at the bottom.

The shape of the Lindy weight greatly reduces the chances of getting it snagged on cover as you pull it across the bottom, and because of this, it’s often referred to as a “no snag sinker.”

So while you can use both rigs almost interchangeably for walleye fishing, the Lindy rig has an advantage in that it gets snagged much less frequently.

There are two scenarios where the Lindy rig doesn’t have an advantage over the Carolina rig.

The first of these if you just cast out your rig, and then leave it in place for walleye to find your live bait, and the second one is if there’s not much cover for the weight to get snagged on, in which case a regular sliding sinker will do just fine.

In case you’re also a trout angler, did you know that you can use a Carolina rig for trout fishing?

It’s exciting to buy your very first air rifle. However, once you go out there and start hitting targets that are further away from where you are, you’d realize that it’s not enough – you need to get the best air rifle scope!

Unfortunately, choosing the best one isn’t easy. With so many options, you can easily feel overwhelmed and confused. In the end, you may even pick the wrong scope and that’s just a waste of money.

To help make the process easier, here are seven things to look for when choosing a rifle scope:

1. The Right Type of Scope

For you to find the perfect air scope rifle, you need to focus on picking the right one not just for your gun but for your needs too. In general, there are two main types you can choose from: variable and fix.

A fixed air rifle scope is set to just one magnification. Because of that, you can’t make any adjustments.

Most scopes under this type have low magnification. Usually, they’re at 4×32.

Although fixed air rifle scopes don’t have great magnification levels, they have a large field of view. This makes them highly recommended for close-range shooting.

A variable air rifle scope, on the other hand, lets you adjust the magnification range. This allows you to get a larger field of view when you’re target shooting and zoom far enough to hit targets in the distance. 

2. Magnification

When you’re considering magnification, you have to understand how much your target can be magnified when you compare it with how it looks without your scope. 

Consider this:

If your scope has 3x magnification, it means that it’ll let you see targets as though they are four times closer.

If you are using your rifle to hunt a target that’s about 100 yards away from you, the scope can make it appear as if it’s only 25 yards away.

3. Reticle

This feature allows you to aim at your targets with your scope. It’s also a big help when it comes to estimating the wind.

Some scopes have the standard crosshair which offers one of the best accuracies. They are highly recommended for target shooters. Other scopes have the mil-dot which is good if you’re hunting in dark environments.

4. Lenses

When it comes to picking lenses, there are two things you need to think about. 

• The diameter of the objective lens affects the amount of light that’s allowed in.
• The bigger the lens in diameter, the heavier the overall weight of the scope gets.

Another thing you have to consider when picking scopes is the coating of the lens. Since glass has this ability to reflect light, you’d want coated lenses.

Also, make sure that it’s a high-quality coating so you can enjoy less glare and better light transmission.

5. Construction

Obviously, when looking for the best air rifle scope, you’d want something that can keep up with you.

Scopes vary in the diameter of their main tubes. You can get one from 25mm to 34 mm, depending on the brand you’re considering.

When you buy a scope with a bigger tube, you’ll have more space for its interior compartments. And because of that, you’ll get a better adjustment range as well. This is a big factor you need to consider when you’re doing long-distance targeting.

6. Eye-relief

The last thing you want to happen is to get yourself injured while firing your gun. While hunting and target shooting are exciting activities, getting a bruised eye isn’t.

To avoid that, consider investing in an air scope with higher-eye relief. The standard is around four inches while scopes of lesser quality can give you around 3 to 3.5 inches.

7. Turrets and Adjustments

When you’re hunting, you want everything to be all set. The last thing you’d want is to have turrets that fail halfway through your activity.

Turrets’ primary function is adjusting windage and elevation. The first one refers to the horizontal adjustment while the latter refers to the vertical adjustment of your scope.

Usually, these knobs are located on the right and top parts of your scope. You’ll find non-tactical models advertising turrets at 1/4” or 1/8”.

In Conclusion

The factors mentioned above can help make the process of picking the best air rifle scope easier and less stressful for you. However, ultimately, the best one will still depend on what you are planning on using your scope for.

If you’re shooting just within 100 yards, you can go with a scope with a magnification of 1x to 4x. If you’re aiming for something at more than 200 yards, it’s a good idea to go for a scope with 9x magnification.

For the other factors, consider picking based on what you need and what fits your air rifle. 

An effective primitive trap could be the best method for catching fish in large quantities. You will find the best types of primitive traps for lakes, rivers and coast below.

1 Primitive Funnel Basket Fish Trap (Fastest Method)

How-To

Collect very long thin sticks of willow or bamboo for the main body of the trap.

Remove bark from other thick willow sticks to use as weaving material and cordage.

Tie one end of the bundle of long willow sticks.

Start weaving the sticks.

Insert a rock to spread the sticks and continue weaving.

Continue weaving until you reach the middle.

Tie a flexible stick into a circle with the same diameter as the middle of the trap.

Insert and tie the ring inside the middle of the trap.

Continue weaving until you are close to the top.

Thick bark makes it much faster to weave.

Now tie another smaller ring exactly the size of the fish you want to catch. Then tie sticks for the body of the inner funnel.

Tie a second circle the same diameter as the end of the main body of the trap. And tie it to the inner funnel.

Weave the inner funnel

The two parts of the trap are finished

Insert the small funnel into the main body of the trap.

You must insert some bait into the trap and rocks to keep the trap submerged. Tie it to a float or shore for retrieval.

When I was in the forest for six months I made one of this traps and tried it out without much luck. The downsides of this type of trap is that it takes a long time to build (5 hrs), and it is not super easy to re-bait or retrieve the fish. Nevertheless you could make one without even using a knife.

This trap would work much better placed in a small stream and creating a stick funnel from shore to shore that leads to the trap. This set up would use the current to lead the fish straight into your belly.

via Survival Lily

2 “M” Primitive Funnel Fish Trap

This is the easiest and fastest trap to make!

Insert long sticks into the mud or sand to form a big “M”.

Insert more sticks wherever there are holes and make sure the funnel opening matches the size of the fish you want to catch.

Adding vegetation on top to create a shaded spot attracts fish.

Add bait in the trap and then the waiting game starts. This is the trap that Zack built in the Alone show.

This trap might not be super effective but it is very quick and simple to build. I like the fact that it is super easy to check if there are fish and retrieve them. The downside is that other than bait and shade there is no other incentive to go in there.

via CN Daily HD

3 Stone or Wood Weir

Using the same funnel principles our hunter-gatherer ancestors used stone or wood weirs to close up streams and lead fish into big “M” or funnel basket type traps.

4 Tidal Trap

Another kind of trap used in the coast is the tidal trap. Sometimes it involved a funnel. Fishermen would usually spear the fish that get caught after the tide recedes.

4 Minnow Trap

You might need to catch minnows to use as bait in your hooks so this simple trap could come in handy.

Just create a shallow pool using rocks or mud.

Leave an opening and wait for a long time. Placing bait or vegetation to shade the pool should help. When you want to retrieve the minnows just close the entrance and scoop them out.

5 “L7” Pole trap for Fishing

This is a mix between a trap and a fishing line with hook. I’ve tried this trap before and to me it doesn’t seem to be better than just having a line with a baited trebble hook and bobber; and it does take more time to set up.

Find a way to position your spring pole next to the water. Green wood doesn’t work well because it will stay bent and won’t be springy.

Stake a long “7” into the ground.

Tie the longest end of the “L” to your spring pole and tie the shortest end to your line and hook.

Now hook the “L” and the “7” by their shortest end. Having a bobber would maintain your baited hook off the bottom.

This trap also tends to be very finicky. The only benefit I’ve experienced is that if you are around you’ll notice pretty quickly if a fish caught your hook. In theory the spring pole helps set the hook, but in practice it doesn’t make much of a difference. Obviously to be primitive it would have to be built using natural cordage and a natural hook.

via Sigma 3 Survival School

6 Trotline

I might be blending primitive an modern here but you could make a fully primitive trotline out of natural materials. What I like about a trotline is that it is relatively easy to make and light weight. It can be used in a lake, river, and coast.

Start by inserting a long stake into the submerged ground. You could also tie your line to the shore or an anchor and submerge it.

Tie you main line to it.

Extend the line and leave enough space between hooks so that fish can’t get entangled with other hooks or stakes.

Attach your lines and hooks at intervals. You could use sinkers, leaders and/or bobbers depending on your needs.

This is a set of hooks with sinkers for the trotline. The line used can be thinner than your main line. For a modern trotline, I recommend braided line instead of mono because it is easier to handle and more durable.

What I like about trotlines is that they are relatively easy. They are also as effective in a slow river as in the coast or a shallow lake.

via MCQBushcraft

If you want to learn more about primitive fishing techniques the best resource out there is the book:

Indian Fishing: Early Methods on the Northwest Coast

I have read it three times already, and there is so much knowledge and wisdom in it.

If you liked this article consider supporting my work by using this link to buy gear on Amazon (I get a very small commission and it doesn’t increase the cost of products for you).

Main image by Petr & Bara Ruzicka

This article contains affiliate links. We may earn a small commission if you purchase via these links.

If this is your budget, you need to do some serious digging before handing over any cash.

$500 is still a hefty chunk of change, but with brands like Vortex, Leupold, Vanguard, and Bushnell, you’ve got variety and quality on your side.

Let’s take a look and see which brand has the best spotting scope under $500.

Top Spotting Scopes Under $500 (Comparison)

When it comes to spotting scopes, often manufacturers either do it well or they don’t. Many of our top brands that are hunters’ go-to companies had some disappointing hits and misses – mostly misses – in this price range.

Because of this, when putting together the line-up for the $300-500 price range, it was tough to come up with the top three. So, you’ll have to forgive us if we throw in an option that slightly bends the rules – it’s just going to have to do.

We took into account the grade quality of the glass, any special coatings, and ability to see groupings clearly in the 200-400 yard range. Let’s take a look at what we came up with.

The 6 Best Spotting Scopes Under $500

1. Leupold SX-2 Alpine 20-60×80 – Best Overall

The SX-2 Alpine spotting scope is capable of providing clear and sharp resolution throughout all hours of the day and across its entire magnification range. It has a drawback or two, but it’s easily one of the best spotting scopes for its price point.

Pros:

• HD Optics
• Oversized eyepiece
• Rugged construction
• Fog/waterproof
• Lifetime guarantee

Cons:

• ED glass confusion

The SX-2 Alpine has Leupold’s Advanced Optical System with HD quality. Leupold lacks mentioning any ED elements, but the glass was made with calcium-fluoride (much like ED glass, right?) that helps to reduce the dispersion of lightwaves at the objective lens. So yes, while there will be some chromatic aberration, it might only be visible on the higher powers and in difficult light conditions that most spotting scopes struggle with too.

Helping to keep you longer behind the eyepiece by reducing fatigue and compensating for less-than-perfect eye alignment is the oversized 59.94mm eyepiece and the 19-18mm of eye relief. All-day glassing, big game hunts, and long-range spotting of groupings are tasks the Alpine HD is well suited to.

Build quality is covered with an impressively balanced speed-to-precision helical focus, fogproof and waterproof body, and it’s been tested to perform in extreme climate conditions from -40 to 160-degrees Fahrenheit.

If the name is any indication, you may have to put in for a hunting unit where you can test it to its limit. High mountain hunts for black bears, whitetails, mules, elk, and bighorn sheep are more productive when you have glass that can keep up with the harsh alpine conditions.

2. Athlon Argos HD 20-60×85 – Best Value

The Argos HD mustn’t be compared to more expensive scopes as it’s one of the cheapest in this price range. To get a colossal 85mm spotter for under $400, it’s a budget buy with value.

Pros:

• 85mm aperture
• Advanced FMC coatings
• Helical focus
• Fog/waterproof
• Extendable sunshade

Cons:

• Optical quality vs marketing

It may be harsh to be so blunt about the optical quality of the Argos HD, but the marketing implies that it has a couple things that it, in fact, lacks. It does not have ED glass or additional elements that can be confirmed to provide high-definition optics. Athlon says the scope has “phase coated Porro prisms” but Porro prisms are inherently unaffected by beam splitting that occurs in roof prisms.

The gist of it is, Porro prisms are great at maintaining contrast and resolution and will perform better than roof prisms that lack PC coatings. As such, the Argos does well for its price point with or without the supposed PC coatings. It struggles with light loss past 40x and off-axis sharpness as do all spotting scopes at comparable price points.

Looking past the marketing gumbo, it has laudable resolution in lowlight conditions. It’s adequate for hunting, range use, wildlife observation, and amateur lunar observation.

The adjustable features of the spotter, i.e., magnification ring, multi-position eyecup, and extendable sunshade offer smooth responsiveness. The focus knob is touchy at max power, so for instant gratification for birdwatching when seconds count, the Argos might not work for you. For focusing in long-range in the field or the shooting range, you have time to be light-handed here.

For the average range shooter, causal outdoorsman, and spot and stalk hunter, the Argos offers big specs with better-than-average performance for its price point. Now that’s value.

3. Vortex Diamondback HD 20-60×85 – Best for Hunting

Overall, the Vortex Diamondback HD isn’t perfect, but for the money, it offers a lot more than the old series. The VIP warranty can’t be beat, so there’s no fear in taking it into wild country for the hunt. The bottom line is that it performs, it’s under $500, and it’s highly recommended.

Pros:

• ArmorTek coating
• Dual focus
• Long eye relief
• Argon gas
• Arca-Swiss compatible

Cons:

• Chromatic aberration

The Diamondback HD spotting scopes have an HD Optical System, but Vortex did not disclose any ED elements. It suffers from color fringing and can be distracting for birdwatching and lunar observation/digiscoping.

The optics will not hold a candle to the Viper HD let alone the Razor HD. But as the entry-level spotting scope line, the glass quality is more than acceptably functional for wildlife observation, range use out to 1000 yards, and Western deer hunting.

The Diamondback HD is rubber armored, waterproof, and has been purged with Argon gas that is usually seen in the high-end range. It has long eye relief of 20.3-18.3mm, has an adjustable eyecup and sunshade, and a rotating tripod ring.

A new feature is the dual focus for course and fine adjustments with the helical focus collar. It’s compatible with Arca-Swiss tripods without needing additional plates and can be mounted to standard ¼-20 tripods.

The HD models gained weight and the objective got larger. This model weighs 60.9oz, and it’s not a bad thing. The extra weight will help to stabilize the setup especially when you’re in the high mountains and big country where windy conditions are the norm.

The glass isn’t perfect and that’s okay. You can always spend more to get better, but for this price point, the Diamondback HD is a performer.

4. Vanguard Endeavor HD 82 Scope

Remember how we said we were going to bend the rules a little bit? This is where we show you how. The Endeavor is just above the $500 mark, but when it’s on sale, you can get it within this price range. We had to do a little tweaking because we only want to offer you the most reliable and high-performing spotting scopes there are. There’s no point in recommending a dud.

The Endeavor has a beast of an objective lens that can provide ultimate brightness and light collection. To take maximum advantage of the 82 mm lens, it’s been made with extra-low dispersion glass elements, been fully multi-coated, and has BaK4 prism glass. There’s more yet to spill about the Vanguard Endeavor, so keep your eyes peeled for the full review!

5. Visionking 30-90X100SS Spotting Scope

This spotting scope is huge, so it’s no joke to assume this thing will be the king of faraway vision. With extreme, high magnification and a huge 100 mm aperture, no distance will be out of your reach.

Pros:

• Price
• Extreme high magnification
• Huge aperture
• Dual focus
• Weatherproof

Cons:

• Heavy

If you think you can have these spotting scope specs without some serious poundage, you’re kidding yourself. With almost 6 pounds to tote and set up, this is a beast of an optic that you want to use with a quality tripod that can support its weight.

So, what’s the point of such extreme specs? To see more of course! The 100 mm aperture will allow in as much ambient light as possible throughout different times of the day whether it’s bird and wildlife watching or star gazing. With such high magnification, you’ll want to make use of the 2-speed dual focus dials to get the sharpest and clearest image possible.

The BaK4 prism glass is fully multi-coated, but there’s no mention of any phase/prism coatings or extra-low dispersion glass elements. The lack of these additional glass features is surprising for such a high powered scope, and it may mean clarity might not be the best as it reaches max magnification.

Even for a generic, off-brand spotter, it still covered its bases when it comes to durability. It has RainGuard HD water-repellent lens coating (sound familiar? Bushnell tech?), it’s O-ring sealed, nitrogen-purged, and 100% waterproof.

If you’re the type of spotter that likes to get set up and stay stationary, the Visionking scope will work for you. A tripod is included in the buy so you won’t have to immediately fork out for one.

6. Kowa TSN-601 Angled 60mm Spotting Scope

Kowa, a prestigious Japanese brand known worldwide for their quality optics, and we have a spotting scope that just barely fits this price range. Owning a Kowa for 500 bucks just might be the best bargain deal of the day.

Pros:

• Price
• Interchangeable eyepiece system
• Made in Japan
• Weatherproof
• 10-year warranty

Cons:

• Scope body only

Typically, you won’t see spotting scopes sold by eyepiece and scope body separately until you’re spending over two grand. This is indicative of premium quality to ensure you’re purchasing the most appropriate eyepiece system for your spotting application. Want variety? You can buy and use an eyepiece with a different power range.

With the interchangeable eyepiece system, you also have access to see if Kowa compatible digiscoping accessories can work for photography, recording, and capturing rare once-in-a-lifetime moments that you won’t ever be able to duplicate.

Still, if you’re spending only 500 buckaroos on the scope body, you’ve got to wonder how much it costs to get the eyepiece. Expect to add at least a few hundred bucks to your budget.

The Kowa spotter is made in Japan, and they’re usually an excellent source of glass and quality when it comes to optics. When you buy this scope from an authorized dealership, you’ll get their lifetime warranty on it.

It’s nitrogen-purged and O-ring sealed for both fog and waterproof protection. It’s made with polycarbonate materials to keep weight to a minimum without compromising build quality.

What more is there to say? You’re getting a Kowa for 500 bucks!

What to Look for in a Spotting Scope in This Price Range

Spotting scopes in this price range should have a few premium perks thrown in – we’re talking about $500, it’s got to be worth it. However, you’ve got to be brand-specific to ensure you’re getting the best of what you can afford.

If you’re going with a high-powered and heavy scope, you’re going to want to add additional costs for quality, strong, and solid tripods and mounting systems. Just keep that in mind when you plan on spending every penny. Here’s what else you need to look for.

Glass & Coatings

Overall, we should start to see some ED (Extra-low Dispersion) enter the market. Some spotting scopes might have “HD quality” but it doesn’t guarantee ED elements. When it comes to coatings, we should see FMC and extra lens coating formulas to enhance light transmission and protect the lens.

Magnification & Objective Lens (Configuration)

On average, there will be a lot of 20-60×80 configurations at this price point. Considering the glass quality, this is a good configuration to stay within since more magnification will demand more performance from the glass.

Though most spotting scopes under $500 will have the eyepiece included with the scope, you may see some interchangeable eyepiece scopes available. Though rare to see it at this price point, it can happen.

Eye Relief & FOV

Eye relief will tell you how comfortable the eyepiece will be to use and if you can keep your glasses on or not. I would say that 15 mm is the minimal amount of acceptable eye relief if you wear glasses, but it’s better to have at least 19-20 mm on the long side as it does get shorter at max power.

The field of view can indicate what applications the spotting scope could be good for. Though high magnification narrows the FOV, it can provide close-ups of the target that is good for long-range seeing. On the other hand, a wide FOV is good for watching moving targets while hunting or bird watching.

Size & Weight

In general, weight and size can be a limiting factor of a spotting scope. They are obviously larger than binoculars, but they offer high and variable magnification with a huge objective lens. Compact scopes would be best for hiking, some hunting, and for fast glassing.

Full-size scopes are excellent performers when tripod-mounted for bird watching, wildlife observation, and amateur astronomy like lunar observation.

You should also consider overall weight, that is, combined weight with a tripod and any counterweights if needed.

Durability

Overall, you should expect good glass and solid performance out of a $500 spotting scope. They should be fog and waterproof at this point and come with a warranty that you can rely on in case the unexpected happens.

We Put The Best Under $500 Through the Ringer!

If you have the chance to shop in person, put your scope through the ringer to really see if it’ll work for you. If one promising purchase ends up being a dud, it’s one purchase too many.

Buying online eliminates the chance to give the spotting scope a test run before you buy, but that’s where counting on our expertise comes into play. If the masses are impressed, you just might be too. Since we’ve put ’em all through the ringer for you, you can rest assured that your money is well placed. It’s called buying confidence – you’re welcome!

Further Reading

• Zeiss Victory Harpia Spotting Scope Review – 85mm Angled with Dual Speed Focus System
• Zeiss Dialyt 18-45x65mm Spotting Scope Review (A True Hunters Tool)
• Zeiss Conquest Gavia 85 T Spotting Scope Review (Ideal for Birders)
• Vortex Viper HD 20-60×85 Angled Spotting Scope Review (Helical Focus)
• Vortex Viper HD 15-45×65 Spotting Scope Review (Straight)

Polar bears and grizzly bears are both members of the bear family, Ursidae. They are similar in many ways, but there are also some important differences between them. One key difference is size: polar bears tend to be much larger than grizzlies.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size

One average the Polar Bear is bigger in size than the Grizzly bear. A typical adult male polar bear is more than twice the size of a typical adult female grizzly!

Lets analyze both these beasts in terms of their weight, height & length:

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Weight

• Adult male polar bears typically weigh between 600 pounds (272 kg) and 1,500 pounds (680 kg), while adult female polar bears weigh between 330 pounds (250 kg) and 550 pounds (250 kg).
• Adult male grizzlies usually weigh between 400 pounds (181 kg) and 800 pounds (363 kg), while adult female grizzlies typically weigh 300 pounds (136 kg) to 400 pounds (181 kg).

So in terms of weight, the polar bears are heavier than grizzly bears.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Height

On all of its four legs

• The height of the polar bear is 1.2 to 1.6 meters (4 to 5.3 feet) while that of female polar bear is 0.81 to1.19 meters (2.8 to 3.11 feet).
• The height of the male grizzly bear is 1.07 to 1.37 meters (3.6 -4.6 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 0.91 to 1.12 meters (3 to 3.8 feet).

So in terms of shoulder height the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

When Standing on its Hind Legs

• Adult Male Polar Bear Height is 2.4 to 3 meters (5.9 to 9.8 feet)
• Adult Female Polar Bear Height: 1.8 to 2.4 meters (5.9 to 7.8 feet).
• Adult Male Grizzly Bear Height: 2.13 to 2.44 meters (7 to 8 feet).
• Adult Female Grizzly Bear Height: 1.7 to 1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So when the bears are standing on their hind legs, the polar is taller than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Body Length

• The body length of a male polar bear is between 2.6 – 3 meters (8.6 to 9.10 feet) while that of female polar bear is 2.4 to 2.8 meters (7.2 to 9.2 feet).
• The body length of a male grizzly bear is between 2.13-2.44 m (7 to 8 feet) while that of female grizzly bear is 1.7-1.98 meters (5.6 to 6.6 feet).

So in terms of body length, the polar bear is taller than the grizzly bear.

The Biggest Ever Polar Bear vs The Biggest Ever Grizzly Bear

• The biggest polar bear ever recorded was in 1960 which was 3.9 meters (12.8 feet) tall and weighed around 2,209 lbs i.e 1,002 kg.
• One of the tallest grizzly bears ever recorded in captivity was called Goliath. It lived at Space Farms Zoo and Museum – Sussex, NJ between 1967 and 1991. It was 3.7 meters (12 feet) tall and weigh a short ton.

So when it comes to the biggest ever bears on record, the polar bear is bigger than the grizzly bear.

Polar Bears Vs Grizzly Bears Size Comparison

Polar Bear Grizzly Bear Male Female Male Female Weight 600-1,500 lbs 330-550 lbs 400-800 lbs 300-400 lbs Height on four legs 4 – 5.3 feet 2.8 to 3.11 feet 3.6 – 4.6 feet 3 to 3.8 feet Height on hind legs 5.9 – 9.8 feet 5.9 – 7.8 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet Body Length 8.6 – 9.10 feet 7.2 – 9.2 feet 7 – 8 feet 5.6 – 6.6 feet

Are polar bears bigger than grizzly bears?

Yes polar bears are bigger than grizzly bears. See the picture below to have a clear idea.

How Big is a Polar Bear

Do you want to be a better defensive shooter?

Of course, you do! So…can you attend a defensive firearms course across the country…basically once a month?

If you can, great! But if you can’t…welcome to the club.

So what do you do in between classes? Drills!

Defensive firearm drills are a great way to work on new skills and keep the ones you have sharp.

We’ve put together a few defensive firearms drills to keep your skills sharp & build a solid base in defensive firearms use, all from the comfort of your local range.

Why These Drills?

There are lots of great drills out there to improve your shooting ability. The ones I’ve chosen here were done for a purpose.

First, they are great drills to master.

Second, they can be done with minimal supplies.

Third, they can most likely be done or modified to be done in accordance with your range’s rules.

1. Malfunction Clearing

This drill is all about learning to get your gun back into the fight when it goes down with a malfunction. This specific drill is designed to teach shooters how to defeat a malfunction.

All standard PPE is required.

Start the drill in the ready position, as if you had just fired and are going to fire again.

If you are using a timer, wait for it to sound off. When it sounds, the drill begins.

If you aren’t using a timer for this drill, just start when ready.

Pistol

Use an empty brass case or a Snap Cap to simulate a complication.

With a pistol, remove the magazine — retain it or drop it (if you’re carrying a spare mag).

Pull the action to the rear several times as you tilt the weapon ejection port down. Once the malfunction is cleared, reload the weapon and fire.

Firing a shot on target completes the drill.

Want to see it in action? Check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense video below.

Rifle

Each rifle functions slightly differently, but this drill assumes you are using a modern rifle. If not, adapt the drill the best you can.

Starting in the firing position, drop the magazine with the firing hand as the nonfiring hand locks the bolt to the rear.

With the bolt to the rear, the jam should clear; if it does not, clear the brass with your hand.

Reinsert the magazine and fire a single shot, and the drill is over.

Shotgun

This drill is for shotguns with tubular magazines — revert to the rifle drill for box mags.

With a pump shotgun pull the pump fully to the rear. If necessary, reach in and remove the malfunction.

With an automatic, lock the bolt back to the rear and clear the malfunction with your hands.

Put another round in the chamber and fire a round.

Make It Harder — Randomly load an empty case into the magazine and let the malfunction surprise you.

2. Failure to Stop a.k.a Mozambique

This drill involves two shots to the chest and one to the head, and it’s the same drill as any weapon platform.

The Failure to Stop Drill, or Mozambique, is mostly useful with a rifle or pistol.

A failure to stop drill with a shotgun tends to be unnecessary, but can be done.

Using a silhouette target with distinguished chest and head areas, set your target up anywhere from 7 to 10 yards with a handgun and 15 to 25 yards with a rifle or shotgun.

If range rules allow, start with the handgun holstered or long gun at the low ready.

On the go signal, fire two rounds into the chest of the target and one round to the head.

Then keep the weapon aimed at the target to ensure it’s down.

This drill stresses shot placement into critical areas of an opponent and also teaches shot transition drills on the same target.

Shot placement is the most critical factor in ending a defensive encounter, more so than any kind of supposed knockdown power.

Make it Harder – Place a 3×5 index card on the chest of the target and a playing card on the head of the target. Shots will only count if they hit the index or playing card. This challenges the shooter’s shot placement skills even more.

Read more about the Mozambique and its origins in our article here!

3. Box Drill

The Box Drill is almost identical to the FSD drill; however, it’s shot on two targets.

Like the FSD, you can use any weapon’s platform to complete this drill…as long as it can hold six rounds.

I place the targets about a yard apart because it’s faster to engage with your dominant hand.

Engage the first target with two to the chest, transition to the second target, and fire two to the chest.

On the second target, take your headshot, then transition and finish the drill with a final headshot on the first target.

This drill stresses shot placement and multiple target engagement.

It forces you to think under stress and focus on kicking ass in a proactive way.

Make it Harder – You can make it a little harder by placing the targets further apart if possible. If not, mix in a reload in between shots. Make it interesting by loading three rounds per magazine and reloading right in the middle of the drill.

4. El Presidente

The El Presidente was designed by the King of Combat handgun shooting, Jeff Cooper. This drill challenges a pistol shooter’s ability to draw, engage, transition targets, reload, and then re-engage multiple targets again.

The drill should be completed in 10 seconds — five if you’re an advanced shooter.

You’ll need three man-sized targets set 1 meter apart, with the targets staged 10 meters from you.

Start with a holstered handgun and a spare mag carried as you please — six rounds in each mag.

You’ll need a timer to really gauge your ability, but if running it just for fun, don’t worry about it.

Begin with your back to the targets, and hands in the air, in the false surrender position.

On the go signal, turn, draw and shoot each target twice. Then reload, and shoot each target two more times.

The drill is quite challenging and does have a lot of moving parts. As such, finding a range that will accommodate it might be tough.

We offer an in-depth dive into El Presidente here.

5. 1 to 5 Drill

Designed by Kyle Lamb, the 1 to 5 Drill is perfect for any modern defensive rifle.

Kyle Lamb was a Sergeant Major in the U.S. Army, a Delta Force Operator, and participated in numerous deployments, including the Black Hawk Down incident. He’s the lead instructor at Viking Tactics and the subject of a serious man-crush on my part.

Lamb designed the drill to stress shooting until the target is down. Instead of focusing on the double-tap and transition, you’ll place a multitude of rounds on multiple targets.

You’ll need three man-size silhouettes set about a yard apart. The targets are only 5 yards from you.

Load one magazine with 15 rounds, insert it and make ready with your rifle.

Start in the low-ready position with your rifle. On the signal, put one shot on the left-most target, two shots into the center target, and three shots into the rightmost target.

Next, you shoot four shots on the center target and finish with five shots on the left target.

You should be able to do this in about five seconds. Anything less means you are doing pretty dang good.

6. Shotgun Casino Drill

I love my shotguns, and there is a drought of shotgun-specific drills.

However, I did see John at Active Self Protection post something called the Shotgun Casino Drill, which is new to me.

Shotguns are low-capacity weapons that require you to learn to reload to run one properly. This drill stresses speed combined with reloads and makes the shooter think.

You’ll need four targets, a pump or semi-auto shotgun, ten rounds of ammo, and a means to carry spare ammo on the gun or body. I prefer side saddles, but it’s up to you.

A shot timer is also required, with the par time set to 30 seconds. All four targets should be set up in a row, placed five yards from the shooter. Load the gun with four rounds.

Your goal is to fire one round into target one, two rounds into target two, three rounds into target three, and four rounds into target four. That’s ten rounds, but you start with only four in the gun.

How you achieve the goal and the method by which you reload is up to you. You can start loading extra rounds as soon as the timer goes off if you choose, reload as needed, or run port reloads after the first four.

It doesn’t matter as long as you get the appropriate amount of rounds into the appropriate targets within 30 seconds.

This drill stresses your recoil mitigation, target transitions, reloading skills, and ability to think under pressure. It’s a fair bit of fun, and you’ll likely have no problems passing.

If you’re faster than the clock, you can always adjust the par time as necessary to make you move faster.

7. Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill

Mike Seeklander is the real deal. He’s a pro shooter, Marine, and an all-around awesome guy.

He teaches classes, has written numerous books, and has contributed to the firearms world in a very positive way. One of his creations is the Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill.

This rifle drill incorporates movement in nearly every possible direction and stresses shooting on the move and proper footwork.

The drill requires a rifle, at least ten rounds, and two obstacles.

Obstacles can be poles, barrels, or anything else suitable. They should be in line with each other and spaced about five feet apart. The target should be set fifteen yards down range.

Start by standing in between the two barrels and then begin walking in a figure 8 around the two obstacles. While walking, have your rifle at the ready and engage the target as you move around the barrels.

This forces you to focus on proper footwork, movement, and accuracy. Use a relatively small target to demand excellent accuracy. Using an IPSC target and focusing only on the A-Zone is a great option.

Make sure you are using a fighter’s style of movement. Avoid crossing your ankles, and move one leg at a time without dragging your feet.

There is not necessarily a par time for this drill; the focus is on moving and shooting.

Due to the movement required, it is wise to practice without live ammo a few times. I run this drill with my Mantis Blackbeard system fairly frequently and get a lot of practice even without live ammo.

8. Sage Dynamics Eleanor

Aaron Cowan at Sage Dynamics was a driving force in the widespread acceptance of optics on duty and defensive handguns.

He’s a soldier and law enforcement officer that now spends his time educating the masses on firearms.

Today we are talking about a drill he devised specifically for handguns and rifles with red dots, although it’s also applied to rifles.

The drill is called the Eleanor and requires you to be both fast and accurate at very close range. It requires a specific target, which is free to print from the Sage Dynamics website.

The idea behind the drill is to practice rapid close-range shooting with excellent accuracy while also being aware of the height over bore issues with a red dot. Depending on your platform, the drill may change slightly.

With a rifle, you fire at five yards from the low ready. With a handgun, you fire from three yards from a holster. For both styles, you’ll need a magazine loaded with four rounds, a shot timer, and the Eleanor target.

At the beep, you’ll shoot the dot in the top of the target with a single round, then transition to the reduced size A zone (aka the square) and fire three rounds into it. Par time is 2.5 seconds to land those four shots.

This drill can be quite a challenge. I’m not ashamed to say I failed it several times and only barely passed when I eliminated concealment as part of the drill.

It’s fast and requires you to remember that height over bore issue and land those shots with a good degree of accuracy.

9. Shoot Two – Load Two

Even in the most kitted-up combat shotguns, you are likely only getting nine rounds or less. So, it’s essential for any shotgunner to know how to reload their weapon.

The S&L drill helps shooters master how to load a shotgun in the middle of using it.

A shotgun’s tubular magazine is an advantage since you can constantly load the gun as you shoot. Being a speedy reloader is the key to mastery.

Place any target downrange, and start 10 yards from it. I prefer to use clay pigeons set on the berm for shotgun training. Shotguns rip targets apart, so paper targets are kind of not needed. Clay pigeons explode and are fun to shoot.

You’ll need at least five shotgun rounds — Three in the tube and two secured outside of the shotgun to load the gun.

Shoot two rounds, reload two shells.

You want to reload with your non-dominant hand and keep the shotgun pointed at the targets.

The key to this drill is repetition. The faster you get, the better.

A way to measure your progress is by keeping time. Shoot two, reload two and observe your time.

Accessories to Maximize Training

I’ve mentioned a few accessories above, and I want to go ahead and double down on just how handy they are.

These tools will make it a lot easier to train and ensure you get the most out of your training.

Shot Timer

A shot timer is an invaluable tool for tracking your skills and ability to shoot.

Sure, a target makes it possible to see how accurate you are, but a shot timer shows how fast you are. You can record the data and track your progress.

A shot timer also adds stress to your shooting, making you work to overcome that stress.

If you can’t afford a shot timer, there are several apps that function decent enough. They aren’t perfect, but they’re better than nothing.

See our round-up of the Best Shot Timers!

Good Targets

While just about any target can work, I prefer targets that resemble an actual opponent. This makes it easy to determine how I’d deal with a real defensive situation.

For a round-up of our faves, see the Best Targets & Stands.

Snap Caps

Snap Caps are invaluable training aids in general — be it dry fire, basic firearm safety, or inducing malfunctions. These rounds are quite distinct from actual rounds but are built perfectly to the spec of a real cartridge. Snap Caps are cheap, easy to find, and are made for nearly any caliber imaginable.

Our faves are below:

• A-Zoom 12 Gauge Snap Caps
• 9mm Luger Snap Caps
• .223 Remington Snap Caps

But we also have an entire article dedicated to the Best Snap Caps for you to look at.

Final Thoughts

When it comes to training, remember that success is not measured overnight. You tend to get better in increments. Be patient and keep training.

For more on basic drills to do at the range, check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense videos below.

Or, for some basic rifle mounting exercises, check out this other video from Brownells.

Or check out the TC Drill below.

Got drills of your own…or any of your favorites we’ve missed? Let us know in the comments below. And if you’re looking to save some money on ammo, check out the Best Low-Round Count Drills and our guide on Dryfire Training.

The market for coyote pelts and a number of other pelts is wide and gives quite the resource for avid hunters of coyotes to sell pelts and learn more about the value of the pelt they offer.

Heavy western coyote pelts are worth between $70 and $100. Eastern coyote pelts usually go for between $30 and $40. Southern coyote pelts and low-quality pelts are likely to be worth $10-15. Coyote pelts can be sold on e-commerce sites, to a local buyer, or at an auction.

There are a few places you can sell Coyote pelts and a lot to know about what makes coyote pelts worth anything.

What Contributes to a Coyote Pelts Value

The market value of the pelt changes based on the size of the pelt and, more importantly, the region it came from. Other factors are primeness and current fashion trends. (Source)

Size can be the biggest indicator, for obvious reasons. The more material sold, the bigger the cost.

However, it isn’t always the size that influences the price of the coyote pelts. Eastern coyotes are bigger than Western coyotes, so why is it that western coyotes are worth more? Simply put, it’s the quality of the fur. Unlike the course, dark guard hair of the Eastern coyotes, Western coyotes are more uniformly pale, and their prime pelts are thick, altogether creating a much higher quality.

Primeness is essentially how thick the fur is, or how prepared it is to deal with the cold. Southern coyotes don’t have to deal with cold weather, so naturally, they don’t get prime coats, but that doesn’t mean all the ones up north will always be better. If harvested too early in the season, you’ll find that the prime winter pelt hasn’t grown in yet, so the quality won’t be ideal. High-quality coyote pelts will have been hunted at just the right time, for peak thickness.

Finally, the color of the pelt and current fashion trends will also influence the market value of the pelt. After all, if someone’s going to buy it, they have to want it for something. These pelts could be used as coats, rugs, blankets, or decorations. The uses of pelts are very versatile. Simple economics will tell you that if there’s little or no demand, the selling price will be low, while if there’s a high demand, it can sell for a lot more.

Trends can change quickly, so make sure to pay attention to what is in and what is out, as you don’t want to bring last season’s pelts to next season’s auction. Those who truly care about the quality of their pelt are willing to spend lots of money, so you don’t want to miss out on that opportunity.

Types of Coyotes

That being said, a good way to predict the demand for your pelt is to be aware of what people are wanting to do with them or use them for at that time. Hunt the coyotes at the right time of year, in the best location, and you are set. The three different locations are west, south, and east.

Southern pelts aren’t the highest quality, as their coats arent as thick. The southern coyotes aren’t exposed to colder weather so their bodies have adapted. Eastern Coyotes are the biggest of the coyotes, making them harder to hunt. They are found in the northeastern part of the country, from the Great Lakes to the big state of New York.

Western Coyotes are found in Oregon, Washington, all the way up through Canada, and Alaska. Some even live in California and Mexico. It all depends on the species. Their coats are much thicker, creating a higher demand and cost. (Source)

What the Pelts are used for

You may wonder what happens to your pelts after they are sold. Even though it is just a product, you spend a good amount of time hunting the animal and prepping the pelt for the auction. It is natural that you become curious about what all your hard work goes towards. There are many different purposes for coyote pelts.

Think of it this way, you’re not selling it to be someone else’s trophy, and the only other real use for it is as a material. So, that’s how people use it, as a material to sew into something. Most recently, coyote pelts have been used as trim for winter coats to provide extra warmth around the head and neck.

They’re also used to trim parkas, and some people might make them into jackets or even blankets. Many buyers like using the pelts to add color to the finished product in addition to extra warmth.

According to Canada Goose, the company famous for their coyote-trimmed winter coats, the fur doesn’t hold water, so it doesn’t freeze, and it disrupts airflow, so it blocks wind. This makes coyote pelts great protection from extreme weather conditions. (Source)

We often wonder how animals stay warm in the winter, this is how. They have thick skin and a layer of fur to protect them from the cold wind and weather that we as humans find unbearable.

How to Sell Pelts

Selling Pelts is a difficult process since the pelt’s value should come into consideration and you’ll have a hand in how much it will make in profit from the second it comes into your possession, right to the moment it’s sold.

When you go to sell a pelt, you should look at how many you scored, and then make sure that you’ve skinned them and taken care of the pelt in a fashion that will elevate its overall value. This could be difficult or easy depending on what kind of coyote you’ve harvested and the demand for its pelt. Make the pelts look their best for the potential buyers.

While you’re looking for a buyer or negotiating a price, keep in mind that the buyer will likely try to resell the pelt, and the buyer they sell to might also be trying to sell it. All of them will be trying to make a profit from it, so they’re not likely to pay the highest price for it. Since you are the first seller, you really need to hold your ground, since you know the next person is going to make even more money off of it.

Local Buyers

Often there will be associations or clubs in your local area, with plenty of people selling or buying fur. It is not as intense as an auction. You basically set up your area and can sell your products. However, this selling option can get a little competitive, as you have multiple other sellers, with pelts from the same area as you.

The worth of your pelts will go down if you were to sell them yourself. A great advantage would be to ship your pelts out of state, to an area that has nothing similar to you. (Source) If you don’t have any local clubs, associations, or auctions to sell to, shipping your pelts out of state to another fur buyer would be the better option.

Traveling Buyers

Traveling buyers are a great way to make the most money off your pelts. It is also very convenient, as you can schedule the time that works best for you. They are of course from out of town so they don’t have other obligations limiting their schedule. They may also be in a hurry to get to the next town, so they aren’t going to spend too much time negotiating with you and lowering the price.

Traveling buyers are often from larger companies, so lowering the price isn’t one of their biggest priorities. Besides mailing in your furs or selling them at an auction, selling to travel buyers is a great way to get the most buck out of your bang. (Source)

Mail Buyers

You might have seen an ad for a mail buyer in a magazine, but you need to be careful with these buyers. They’re a convenient solution if you don’t have any other buyers nearby to sell your pelts to, but their prices can vary from their listed ads.

Some might offer to pay shipping, but they also might only offer a good price for some of your pelts. They’ll usually give you a few days to accept their offered price, and if you don’t like it, they’ll send your pelts back to you.

Fur Auctions

When there are a lot of people at an auction, the chance of getting a good price for your pelt is a lot higher. Be aware, though, that market prices for pelts might change in the time it takes to wait for an auction to be set up. You may also be charged a commission to enter your pelts into the auction, which decreases your profit.

On the other hand, the location of the auction might be convenient to you, as well as the potential to offload multiple pelts in one go. So if there’s an auction near you, it might be worth your time and the commission to go there. Instead of trying to find the buyers, the auction brings the buyers to you. Most times this is worth the extra costs of commission.

If you don’t want to lose costs at an auction, then you might be better off with local buyers. (Source)

Etsy and eBay

Another way to sell your pelts is by looking online and finding a demand there. Searching on Etsy can show you whether there are people interested in pelts or parts of pelts for certain projects they have. These crafters will be less picky about the quality and color of your pelt as long as they can make it work for their project.

eBay also has a big market for pelts, and instead of having to find someone who will offer you a price you like, they’ll sell to the highest bidder. However, you might find a bigger market here for finished products rather than pelts themselves. (Source)

Additionally, buyers may come to eBay looking to buy in bulk for their businesses. A reseller may also buy the pelts in bulk from you to make a profit. Selling in bulk may bring in less than otherwise, but it could be a convenience to get all of your pelts sold in one go. If it is the end of the selling season and you’ve had no luck, eBay may be your solution to still making money off of your product.

When to Harvest for the Best Prices

It’s best to hunt the coyotes during harvest season. This leaves them at their best state, right before they could get mange. Mange is when a mite plants itself into the coyote’s skin. It itches so much that it causes the animal to scratch all of its furs off. If they scratch all of their hair off, the pelt will be useless. (Source) It’s important to harvest the coyotes before mange happens. You will be saving them because they will be unprotected from winter without their fur. This keeps nature in balance.

Coyotes are healthiest when legally harvested. Legally coyotes can be hunted year-round, but most hunters like to get them in the winter months at the beginning of the year. The primeness, or the thickness of the coat, depends on the time and season of when you capture them. Winter months would be the best time of year to harvest them for primeness because they have their nice thick winter coat developed. (Source)

Coyotes are best hunted during winter for the prime thickness of the coat. Primeness is a big factor in how the pelt is priced. Other factors that determine the price of the pelt include color, location of where it was harvested, its size, and the current fashion trends.

When selling your pelts, whether it is online or in-person, these factors are very important. As you can see, there are so many places to sell coyote pelts. You never have to worry about losing profit. Coyote pelts can be worth plenty as long as you market them correctly.

Other Sections

• About The Frankfurt or New England Roll
• Recipe

Red frankfurters in a grocery case in Lewiston, Maine. Local and regional traditions are important in many ways, and can be informational, historical, or even humorous in nature. For example, some of the oddest hot dogs I’ve seen are the red frankfurters of Maine. I was curious when I saw these in the grocery store so I asked a manager if they were hot or somehow spicy. “No, they’re not.” How are they different from other natural casing frankfurters from the same meatpackers? “They taste the same” was the answer. Then why are they red? “I really don’t know, that’s always confused me, too.”

Red frankfurters are served in what are called Frankfurter or Frankfort Rolls.

Curious, I flipped over one of the packages of red frankfurters:

Ingredients: Beef and pork, water, corn syrup, contains 2% or less of salt, potassium lactate, flavorings (including extractives of paprika), dextrose, sodium diacetate, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), sodium nitrate, FD&C red #40 and red #3, in a natural lamb casing.

Searching the case I found some meatpackers also throw in FD&C Yellow #6.

I then located the Natural Casing Frankfurters from the same meatpacker:

Ingredients: Beef and pork, water, corn syrup, contains 2% or less of salt, potassium lactate, flavorings (including extractives of paprika), dextrose, sodium diacetate, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), sodium nitrate, in a natural lamb casing.

The only obvious difference is the red coloring. The amounts of the other ingredients may have differed, but it wasn’t likely. From a food manufacturing standpoint, I imagined the process would put the completed natural casing frankfurters through a vat of dye prior to packaging.

None of it made any sense at all.

Prepping the red hot dogs and buns in an electric skillet. The buns are buttered before grilling.

Local media in Maine reports on this from time-to-time, noting not only the popularity but also versions of the reason behind the red coloring:

“W.A. Bean & Sons … has been making the natural casing treats since 1918 … ‘We are the only makers of the red hot dogs left in the state of Maine,’ [Sean Smith, director of marketing and sales development] said … W.A. Bean produces an estimated 400,000 pounds of snappers each year, both under its own name and the Rice’s label that the family began producing nearly a decade ago, after negotiating a deal with its former owner and former competitor.

Smith said the company used to have a large U.S. map on display, with push pins marking everywhere their snappers were shipped, sometimes in orders as large as 10 pounds at a time. Over time, the map became so crowded that maintaining it was no longer feasible … Maine exiles also snatch them up while visiting ‘home’ to bring back to share with their families and friends, Smith said, noting that one W.A. Bean fan from North Carolina drives north every three or four weeks to get a fix of his favorite dog.

It isn’t entirely clear why the red coloring was introduced. One legend has it that the coloring historically was added by the original European makers of frankfurters to mask less-than-premium ingredients … Smith, however, speculated that W.A. Bean added its signature coloring as a way of making its frankfurters stand out amid a sea of competitors. ‘And it took off.’” [Gagnon, 2012]

It’s the perception of the red vs. natural colorings that is odd, that not only do people prefer it but that they’ll go to great lengths to make sure that’s what they eat, even though there are no flavor differences.

I also know of one sixth grader in 2018 who will only eat the red ones because, as his mom laughingly told me on social media, “My son won’t eat the brown. Says they taste weird.” Another acquaintance had this to say:

“Red hot dogs are popular in Hawaii too. When I was signing the papers to close on the house, the mortgage guy was telling us all about a trip he just took to NY, but he ended up staying in the room because he got sick and he thought it was the ‘brown hot dogs’, his colleague said, disgustedly, ‘YOU eat BROWN hotdogs?!’ The rest of us died laughing.”

The cuisinologist in me had to discover the true origin, and as it turns out, it does exist. The London-based Newcomen Society “exists to encourage study of the history of engineering and technology from ancient times to the present day.” The former American arm of the Society, founded in 1939 and disbanded in 2007, held their “1992 Maine Meeting” in Portland. Joseph “Chet” Jordan, grandson of the local meatpacker Jordan’s Meats founder and Chairman of the company at the time, was the Guest Of Honor. He gave the address “Jordan’s Meats: A Thriving Business in Its Third Generation-built Primarily on ‘hot Dogs’” on October 9th. The Society subsequently published the text of his address in 1993 as a 24-page pamphlet with historical photos from Jordan’s Meats. Mr. Jordan’s address specifically addressed the history of Maine’s red frankfurters.

“… Charles and Richard Schonland … were sons of German immigrants, and their father ran the leading sausage business in Lawrence [Massachusetts]. In 1891, the brothers had decided to found their own company and ‘investigated several cities’ before deciding on Portland. Schonlands began operations in a leased building … but later built their own building … Schonlands introduced the so called ‘red franks’ to Maine, and their distribution was Portland, Lewiston, Auburn, Biddeford, Saco and Sanford. This is why the ‘red franks’ today are still popular in those areas. They colored their hot dogs red to differentiate their product from the competition … Pa worked at Schonland Brothers, where he learned much and planned for the day when he could start his own company … [I]n 1927, the year I was born, my parents founded Jordan’s Ready-To-Eat-Meats … In 1935 a major benchmark was reached when Pa purchased Schonland Brothers, his former employers … [T]he red hot dogs that so many people associate with Jordan’s are only one of our many products. As I mentioned before this was a kind of trademark for Schonland Brothers which was continued by Jordan’s after the purchase. In fact, it was Jordan’s who introduced the red franks to Aroostook County in the mid-1930s. The ingredients of the red frank are identical to those in our uncolored franks, but demand for the red frank is still traditional in many parts of the state.” [Jordan, 1993: 8, 10, 12, 13, 14]

The tradition of Maine’s red hot dogs has relocated since Chet Jordan’s address. Jordan’s Meats had bought C.H. Rice Co. in Bangor back in 1962. [Jordan 1993: 19] The Iowa Beef Co. subsequently purchased Jordan’s in 2001, which Tyson Foods then bought in 2003. Tyson then closed Jordan’s Augusta plant, where Rice’s red frankforts were made, in 2004. Later that year, the Rice family bought its name back from Tyson Foods and formed a partnership with Bangor sausagemaker W.A. Bean to begin making the Rice version of the red hot dog again. [Associated Press, 2004] In 2008 Kayem Foods of Chelsea, Massachusetts, announced they had purchased the Jordan’s Meats brand from Tyson Foods, along with six other local brands. [Kayem Foods, 2008] Tyson Foods had closed the Jordan’s Meats plant in Portland in 2005, which then burned on May 6, 2010. [Hoey, 2010] As of the time of this writing, W.A. Bean is still producing both their own and the C.H. Rice versions of Maine’s red hot dog in Bangor and is the only in-state manufacturer of the product. [Gagnon, 2012]

Frankfurt or New England Rolls

Hot dog buns next to Frankfurt Rolls at a Hannaford store in Maine. A “Frankfurt Roll” or “Frankfurter Roll” in New England and New York state is a top-split bun with flat sides that’s either buttered and grilled for use with New England hot dogs or seafood rolls, or steamed for use with coney dogs or frankfurters.

The traditional story of the Frankfurt or Frankfurter Roll used with Maine’s red hot dogs, as well as other preparations such as the Lobster Roll, is that sometime in the 1940s the Howard Johnson’s chain commissioned the J.J. Nissen baking company in Maine to create the roll for their fried clam sandwich. USA Pan® is also credited with developing the pan to create the roll. [Tucker, 2020]

The same style of bun is marketed in other parts of the country as a “coney” or “New England” roll. These are two brands available at a grocery store in Ohio. Wonder also offers a New England roll, available in various parts of the U.S.

Images provided by Food Historian Dr. Eleanor Bartlett of the University of Cambridge (@historyeats) indicated that evidence from Europe strongly suggests this really wasn’t a new development in any manner. The soft French roll, a light bread dough rolled out thinly then rolled into a tight cylinder before baking closely to one another, had been included in paintings as far back as the early 17th century. Visually almost identical to the roll developed by J.J. Nissen, it appears the only real differences are the addition of the top slice for insertion of the meat or seafood components, and the buttering and grilling of the sides of the rolls.

Left: Kitchen interior with a maid preparing meat and gentlemen drinking at a table beyond, by Jeremias van Winghe, 1613; Right: The Baker, Job Adriaenszoon Berckheyde, 1681.

A Frankfurt Roll as made by Country Kitchen, a commercial bakery in Lewiston, Maine.

Another issue with the traditional story of the New England roll pan is that, according to their web site, USA Pan® wasn’t founded until 2009. It’s a subsidiary of Bundy Baking Solutions, makers of factory baking pans and equipment. According to the USA Pan site Bundy Baking was founded in 1959, while the Bundy Baking Solutions site indicates 1964. Both of these facts discredit the supposed J.J. Nissen/USA Pan® connection in the 1940s described in [Tucker, 2020].

Other sources provide a seemingly more accurate history. In the Boston Globe Holly Jennings wrote “J. J. Nissen knew it would need a special pan for an automated production line. Industrial baking-pan manufacturer Ekco Products designed the first commercial pan for the bakery.” [Jennings, 2013] As Ekco had been founded as a manufacturer of non-electric houseware in 1888, this origin makes more sense. Ekco became a subsidiary of American Home Products in 1965. Bundy Baking Solutions founder Russell T. Bundy had begun his career at Ekco. Chicago Metallic had acquired Ekco in 1996, and Bundy Baking Solutions then acquired Chicago Metallic in 2005.

Some of the verbal history in [Jennings, 2013] appears to be a bit of marketing though. One of the interviewees stated “The hinged and side-sliced hamburger and hot dog buns used in most regions of the country today … did not come until later, sometime in the mid-’50s, with the invention of the mechanical side slicer.” This is disproven in U.S. Patent 2,059,108, “Frankfurter Roll Slitting Machine”,assigned to Laurence G. Hobbs and Knut J. Cederholm of Fitchburg, Massachussetts, on October 27, 1936.

Download (PDF, 499KB)

To bake the buns properly, USA Pan® offers a retail ten-bun New England Hot Dog Bun pan for use with any recipe for the buns, which is the pan I’ll use here. Why 10, and not 8? I’m guessing that’s because the end buns only have one side that’s flat and grillable. This pan shows up in the catalog for Bundy subsidiary Chicago Metallic.

For retail New England bun production, Bundy Solutions’ industrial New England pan, with capacities such as six 12-bun loaves, is considered a custom baking pan having various available options and configurations for industrial bakery use. It’s from the Hot Dog, Sub & Hoagie Bun Pan collection from their American Pan subsidiary.

One issue with this pan is that it’s not very tall, at 1-5/16″, so buns made with it are really too short to fill very well. The technique described in many recipes for it mention inverting a baking sheet over the pan, weighted by a piece of cast iron. As the buns cook upside down, this ensures the bottoms of the buns are flat. Photos then show the bottoms of the buns even with the top of the pan.

The real trick is to find a recipe that rises enough to become taller than the New England Hot Dog Bun pan. I needed to find one that gives the buns an extra 3/4″ to grow, to just over 2″ tall.

Many commercial Frankfurt or New England rolls are made of a simple bread dough. The recipe USA® Pan offers for use with their pan includes milk, butter, and potato flakes. It also describes the dough as being stretched and placed in the pan as a whole before the second proofing instead of the rolls being individually formed. This is clearly how the commercial buns are made that are available in New England groceries, and would be the most authentic. Unlike many other recipes it calls for instant yeast vs. active yeast.

To get the buttery sweetness of a good New England classic, you could use one of the better recipes for a Parker House Roll, such as this recipe from the James Beard Foundation. Originally developed at Boston’s venerable Parker House Hotel, the roll is not only still served there, its recipe has been printed in countless cookbooks since Fannie Farmer’s first Boston Cooking School Cook Book in 1896.

Other available recipes available include butter, and either milk or milk flakes, minus the potato flakes, making for a fluffier roll with less density. A version from The Flavor Blender illustrates forming the buns individually. King Arthur Flour has posted this recipe for a version which also includes potato flour or flakes. In the King Arthur version the buns are formed in the pan as a flat layer, which is then cut into the individual rolls after baking.

The following recipe is a modification of the recipe for the pan itself from USA Pan®. Modifications include using more water to get a fluffier bun that can grow more, and not using a sheet pan and weight to flatten the dough as it bakes as suggested in other recipes for the pan. This allows the buns to grow past the hight of the pan, giving them more room for fillings.

Notes On This Recipe

• The New England Hot Dog Bun Pan is available from USA Pan® at: https://www.usapan.com/new-england-hot-dog-bun-pan-1190ne
• The New England Hot Dog Bun Pan from USA Pan® has a silicone coating that doesn’t respond well to non-stick sprays or metal utensils. It’s best not to use either with it. However, it it makes you feel better, greasing and flouring the pan is alright, although it’s not necessary.
• In some ovens, particularly smaller convection ovens, the tops of the buns won’t be quite browned. About 9 minutes into the bake time, remove the buns from the oven and flip them out to check the tops. If they haven’t started browning, set the baked bun mass right-side-up on a baking sheet and bake the remaining 9 minutes until the tops are golden brown.

Bibliography

• Associated Press, October 27, 2004. A dog-meet-dog world – Longtime Bangor competitors combine their frankfurter forces. seacoastonline.com.
• Gagnon, Dawn, August 17, 2012. Bangor company’s “red snapper” hot dogs are a beloved taste of Maine. Bangor, Maine: Bangor Daily News.
• Hoey, Dennis, May 7, 2010. Fire tears through Jordan’s Meats site. Portland, Maine: Portland Press Herald.
• Jennings, Holly, July 2, 2013. New England-style bun, from HoJo’s to homemade: Boston Globe.
• Jordan, Joseph, 1993. Jordan’s Meats: A Thriving Business in its Third Generation-Built Primarily on ‘Hot Dogs’. Portland, Maine: The Newcomen Society Of The United States.
• Kayem Foods, May 20, 2008. Kayem Foods Acquires Jordan’s, Deutschmacher, Kirschner and Essem Brands From Tyson Foods. Chelsea, Massachusetts: Kayem Foods Press Release.
• Tucker, Aimee, May 6, 2015. The New England Hot Dog Bun. Dublin, New Hampshire: New England Today

With their bright orange color and meaty texture, chicken of the woods mushrooms are one of the most exciting edible mushrooms out there, and if you catch them at the right time they can be some of the best mushrooms you’ll ever eat. They’re a perfect wild mushroom for beginners, and something to look forward to every year.

About

Chicken of the Woods mushrooms (Laetiporus sulphureus) are a parasitic fungi that decays dead trees and causes a brown heart rot in living trees, making it both a parasitic and saprobic mushroom.

The fruiting body appears as a fan-shaped mushroom growing in large brackets on stumps, fallen logs, and the base of dead trees. They’re widespread across North America, but also enjoyed around the world.

Famous as the mushroom that tastes like chicken, they’re a great mushroom meat substitute in many dishes, making them perfect for using in vegetarian and vegan mushroom recipes. Some people like to treat them like crab or lobster.

They can grow to a massive size. In 2009 the Guinness Book of World Records listed a chicken mushroom found in United Kingdom weighing over 100 pounds.

Chicken of the Woods Species

As of this writing, there should be 7 species in North America. New varieties are identified around the world regularly, and there’s at least 14 species identified in the world to date including L. xinjiangensis from China, L. cremeiporus, from Japan, and L. caribensis from the Carribean.

East Coast and Great Lakes

Laetiporus sulphureus is the type species, and are the best example of what a chicken mushroom will look like. It has yellow pores and grows on dead and dying hardwoods, especially oak, but can also grow on poplar, willow and locust.

Laetiporus cincinnatus or white-pored chickens often grow from the roots of oak trees in a basal rosette shape, but can grow directly from trees as well. Many foragers prefer their texture and bug resistance over yellow varieties. Unlike other chickens, it causes root or butt rot instead of heart rot. It has a peachy-orange color, and cream to white spores.

Laetiporus huroniensis is newer addition to the genus. L. huroniensis has pale yellow pores and grows on old-growth conifers in the northeastern U.S. and Upper Midwest. It’s bright orange color is similar to L. sulphureus.

Laetiporus persicinus, or the white Chicken of the woods. L. persicinus is the only species to grow on hardwood and softwood. It has a white to pink-salmon cap that darkens to brown with age with white pores. It’s found in the southeastern United States, Australia, Asia, and South America the Caribbean.

West Coast

Laetiporus conifericola. A recently named species with a range from California to Alaska. It’s preference for conifer trees like hemlock, spruce and fir set it apart from others in the genus. The caps are the classic bright orange to peach, and and has yellow pores.

Laetiporus gilbertsonii Grows on eucalyptus or oak and is found in the Southwest as well as the west coast. Some avoid it as it can cause allergic reactions for those sensitive to it. A cousin (L.gilbertsonii var. pallidus) has white pores and grows along the Gulf Coast.

Where to Find Chicken of the Woods

You can find sulphur shelf mushrooms anywhere a tree has been infected. In the Midwest, chicken of the woods season begins in late Spring, continuing through Fall. Each host tree has its own “clock” and they’ll fruit at different times.

In Minnesota and Wisconsin I find them growing on red and white oak, but also cherry or beech are possible. On the west coast and up into Canada they grow on Coniferous trees.

Harvesting Chicken of the Woods (Video)

Finding chicken mushrooms is easy. Finding them at the perfect stage for eating is not. Young mushrooms harvested before the shelves form are the most tender.

To harvest, cut the tender portions of chicken mushroom off with a sharp knife. The mushrooms get tough and woody quickly as they grow, and the excitement of finding one can fool you into bringing home a tough, woody mushroom. If you find a large mushroom, trim off dirt from the base.

Mushroom Bugs

Fungus gnat larvae (Sciaridae and others) will infest the mushroom quickly. Some species are more prone to them than others. As you cut, inspect the mushroom for tunneling, keep cutting until you can’t see any bug holes.

Store fresh chicken of the woods in a Zip Loc bag with a paper towel and they can last for a week in the fridge. Larvae are harmless, but they’ll make your mushrooms go bad faster.

Chicken of the Woods Look Alikes

There are no real look alikes, and there’s no false chicken of the woods. The mushroom most commonly confused with chickens are hen of the woods. The difference is easy to see: chicken mushrooms are orange or yellow and hen of the woods are brown.

Cooking Chicken of The Woods

Chickens can be substituted for chicken in any recipe, as well as other mushrooms after cutting into bite-sized pieces. They can be sauteed, breaded and fried, pickled, and cooked just about any way you could imagine.

Cooking Tips

• Always cook thoroughly, at least 5-10 minutes.
• Often only outer 1-2 inches of mushroom is edible.
• Very young mushrooms are the best, and the whole mushroom can be tender.
• Young mushrooms can be cooked in thick slices for mushroom steaks.
• Young chicken mushrooms can have a lemony taste, and pair well a little acid.
• To show off the mushrooms, saute them and put them on top of a dish.

Young mushrooms can be cooked in large pieces, older mushrooms must be trimmed. See below for examples.

Young Mushrooms

Older Mushrooms

Allergic Reactions to Chicken of The Woods

Chicken of the woods are edible, but some people have an allergic reaction no matter what species is eaten. Vomiting, nausea and diarrhea are the usual symptoms, but individual sensitivity varies. Another possible reaction is a numbing sensation in the lips after eating chicken of the woods.

Always eat a small amount of food that’s new to you. Start by eating a small serving or 1-2 ounces of cooked mushroom.

How to Preserve Chicken of the Wood

The mushrooms can be dehydrated, pickled, or frozen. Pickling is a good option that keeps the fresh texture of mushrooms. Use my Pickled Chicken of the Woods recipe.

You can dry chicken of the woods but they become very tough. Use dehydrated chicken mushrooms for soup or roasted chicken or hen mushroom stock. You can also use them to make mushroom powder, but it isn’t as good as mushrooms that are more tender.

How to Freeze Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

Freezing is the best way to preserve these mushrooms. To freeze chicken of the woods, cook until wilted in butter and season with salt, portion into Zip Loc bags. Put the ziploc bags into a vacuum bag and then vacuum seal. Frozen mushrooms will keep for at least 6 months and often longer. You can also freeze them after making Wild Mushroom Duxelles.

Chicken of the Woods Recipes

I have lots of recipes on this site beyond what’s shown below. See the link after the recipes to go to the archive.

Chicken Fried Chicken of the Woods

Crispy, golden brown mushrooms everyone will love are a fan favorite on this site.

Wild Chicken Mushroom Thai Red Curry

Mushrooms simmered in rich coconut milk sauce with kaffir lime and spices. Many different mushrooms can be used.

Sicilian Chicken of the Woods

In Italy the mushrooms are known as fungo de carrubo and grow from carob trees. They’re traditionally simmered in a spicy tomato sauce, served with grilled bread.

More Chicken of the Woods Recipes

FAQ

References

USDA: A new species of Laetiporus (Basidiomycota, Polyporales) from the Caribbean basin

MycoKeys: Phylogeny and taxonomy of Laetiporus (Basidiomycota, Polyporales) with descriptions of two new species from western China