When .223 Remington just won’t do it, many turn to the venerable .308 Winchester. The classic “battle rifle” is a term dedicated to semi-automatic rifles chambered in a full-power rifle caliber — typically the .308 Win. The .308 Winchester often offers the extra performance needed compared to the .223 Remington, and provides shooters with the upper hand.

Whether it’s for fun at the range or in preparation for a SHTF scenario, here are the top five .308 Winchester semi-auto rifles that you can bet your life on.

Why Choose a .308 Battle Rifle?

There are several reasons to choose a .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle over something chambered in a lesser caliber. The two main reasons being superior ballistics and increased effective range. For example, when looking at two comparable Federal loads with a FMJ BT projectile, we see that a 62-grain .223 Remington has a velocity of 3,020 fps and produces 1,255 ft/lbs of energy, while a 150-grain .308 Winchester has a velocity of 2,820 fps and produces 2,648 ft/lbs of energy. This means that, on average, your rifle chambered in .308 Winchester will produce over twice the amount of energy as your standard .223 Remington rifle.

Additionally, the .308 Winchester has a max effective range of roughly 1,000 yards according to the USMC, while the .223 Remington only has a max effective range of around 600 yards. This allows shooters, with proper marksmanship fundamentals and abilities, to put more distance between them and a threat.

In a SHTF or bug-out situation, you could also use a .308 rifle to hunt a wide variety of game. This could be beneficial for survival with the right skills and conditions in place.

Cons of Using .308

Though there are a number of reasons to choose a .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle over something chambered in 5.56 NATO, there are also some cons. The primary impairment will be weight — rifle weight, loaded magazines, and spare ammo will all be heavier. If you are going to be carrying a full loadout for an extended time period or distance, the extra weight exacts a toll on the body. It can also account for limitations on the amount of additional gear you would otherwise be able to carry.

The increased power of the .308 cartridge comes with an increase in recoil, muzzle blast, and report. This makes the rifle harder to fire accurately and can slow down follow-up shots. It can also have a negative effect on your vision or hearing when firing in certain environments, such as indoors or at night, due to the excess concussion and muzzle flash.

You will also have a reduced capacity compared to a 5.56 rifle, moving from a standard 30-round magazine to a 20-round mag. You can find extended .308 magazines, but you will still be dealing with the additional weight and lower capacity compared to extended 5.56 mags.

1. Smith & Wesson M&P10 Sport

Starting off the list as the most budget-friendly option, the Smith & Wesson M&P10 is an AR-10 platform .308 Winchester rifle. This provides shooters with good parts compatibility for upgrading or replacing accessories and components. Constructed of durable 7075-T6 upper and lower receivers, the M&P10 is capable of taking a beating. The 16-inch barrel provides excellent accuracy while keeping the rifle lightweight and maneuverable at only about 6.5 lbs.

The Sport variant comes with a standard A2 handguard, pistol grip, and stock, but the rifle is also available in different configurations depending on your preferences. Overall, the M&P10 Sport allows shooters to get into a quality .308 Winchester semi-auto rifle without breaking the bank.

2. DS Arms SA58 FAL

Introduced in 1946 and dubbed “the right arm of the free world,” the FAL is a well-known .308 battle rifle. The DS Arms SA58 provides an improved version of the original FAL with the inclusion of an M-Lok handguard for attaching accessories, top rail for mounting optics, adjustable side-folding stock, enhanced ambidextrous magazine release, and extended cocking handle knob. Additionally, the rifle features a 16-inch medium-contour fluted barrel and is equipped with an elevation adjustable front sight post along with a quick-adjust dual aperture rear sight.

DS Arms also offers a standard version of the SA58 with an 18-inch barrel and standard furniture that is more in line with a traditional FAL. All parts of the DS Arms SA58 are high-quality and made in the USA.

3. Springfield M1A SOCOM 16

The Springfield Armory M1A SOCOM 16 is the highest evolution of the trusted M1A/M14 series of rifles. The SOCOM 16 model features a 16.25-inch barrel for a more compact and maneuverable overall package. The SOCOM variant of the M1A also incorporates an optic mount, as well as an XS Sights tritium front sight post with an enlarged military aperture ghost ring rear sight that is adjustable for windage and elevation. The M1A includes a 10-round magazine, but 20-round magazines are available. If classic wood and steel is more your style, take a look at the standard M1A.

4. IWI Tavor 7

The IWI Tavor 7 is unique, in that it features a bullpup design. Bullpup rifles move the action to the rear of the firearm. This makes for a more compact rifle, even with the 16.5-inch barrel length. The Tavor is highly regarded as a durable and dependable rifle — partially due to the short-stroke gas piston design with a rotating closed bolt.

The Tavor 7 incorporates an ambidextrous safety lever, magazine release, and bolt catch. Additionally, the charging handle and ejection side can be reversed, making this a great choice for both right and left-handed shooters.

5. FN SCAR 17S

One of the most well-known .308 Winchester semi-auto rifles is the FN SCAR 17S. The .308 SCAR comes in two configurations, a shorter version with a 16-inch free-float barrel called the 17S, and a longer version with a 20-inch barrel called the 20S. Purpose-built for long-range shooting, the short-stroke gas piston system efficiently absorbs recoil for greater precision and faster follow-up shots.

The SCAR features an ambidextrous safety lever, magazine release, and a charging handle that mounts on the right or left side. Further, the SCAR utilizes a telescoping, side-folding polymer stock with an adjustable cheek piece allowing the rifle to be fitted to the shooter.

Honorable Mention: IWI Galil Ace

The Galil Ace is often looked at as a sort of modernized and upgraded AK-47. Typically chambered in 7.62x39mm, there is also a .308 Winchester version of the Galil. It features a 16.5-inch chrome-lined, cold hammer forged barrel and utilizes a 20-round magazine. When compared to the AK, the reciprocating charging handle has been moved to the left side of the milled steel receiver, allowing for weak hand operation.

The Galil features a closed rotating bolt, long-stroke gas piston system that makes it incredibly reliable. Additionally, the rifle features adjustable iron sights with a tritium front post and a two-dot tritium rear aperture. However, the Galil Ace also incorporates a full-length top rail to mount an optic. An adjustable, side-folding stock makes for easy storage and transportation, and allows the shooter to fit the rifle to the desired length of pull.

Conclusion: Best .308 Winchester Rifles

Sometimes having a full-power battle rifle is just what the doctor prescribed. They shoot farther, hit harder, and have a distinct feel that no standard AR-15 can match. So, if you’ve decided that a semi-auto .308 rifle is for you, any of the options on this list are sure to serve you well.

What is your favorite .308 “battle rifle”? Let us know in the comment section.

You need a good swimbait to catch fish consistently. There are so many types of swimbait out on the market, making it tough to know what swimbait to use and when to use it. I have found the 5 swimbaits listed below to be great for “Kraken” bass, helping me have great success after several years of trial and error. This article will walk you through what you need to look for in a swimbait. Plus, it’ll give you a strong baseline of swimbaits to use to consistently outperform all the others. Hopefully, this information on soft plastic swimbaits will help eliminate some confusion for you. In addition, there are several tips and a video of each of these swimbaits in action to help you become a better swimbait fisherman. Enjoy the post!

What Makes A Good Swimbait

A swimbait can be one of the best lures to use for bass fishing. They allow you to cover a lot of water and-best of all-bass crush them! Unfortunately, not all swimbaits are created equal. Almost every fishing brand has one kind of swimbait or another. What separates the effectiveness of a swimbait is its size, swimming action, and the colors.

Fortunately, I’ve spent a lot of time on the water, and boiled the mass amount of products down to 5 good swimbaits that will consistently catch you big bass all year long. Feel free to leave a comment below if you disagree with any of the swimbait listed. I’m always open to try new gear and techniques. Plus, don’t forget to check out the video at the bottom of the post to see these swimbaits in action and see proof of why these are the best. Soak in the stoke!

Keitech Easy Shiner Swimbait

One of the all-time best swimbaits is the Keitech Easy Shiner. This swimbait is awesome because the tail will wobble perfectly without barely any movement on the retrieve. Plus, the thin body is a perfect baitfish imitator. The best way to fish this swimbait is with a 1/8oz. darter jig head on a light spinning rod. You can cast it a mile and the darter jig head will help keep the swimbait horizontal as you retrieve it through the water. Prepare to reel in the bites with this awesome lure.

Rigging Up Keitech Easy Shiner Swimbaits

4″ Ayu Keitech Shiner

1/8oz. Gamakatsu Darter Jig Head

7′ Medium Heavy Spinning Rod & Reel Size 30

Basstrix Paddle Tail Swimbait

I have found the Basstrix Paddle Tail to be a great swimbait on the market. Its action is incredibly unique compared to any other swimbait. The entire body wobbles as the tail kicks. This extra vibration in the water from the Basstrix swimbait’s body wobble helps draw some serious strikes. The Basstrix needs to be retrieved a little faster than other swimbaits to get the right action, but it still crushes bass. Plus, the hollow body enable some cool rigging options to keep the bait from catching in the weeds. This swimbait is a definite must-have in your arsenal.

Rigging Up Basstrix Paddle Tail Swimbaits

1/4oz. gamakatsu swimbait jig head

5″ Basstrix Ayu Paddle Tail Swimbait

7′ Medium Heavy Baitcasting Rod & Reel

Jackall Rhythm Wave Swimbait

The Jackall Rhythm Wave is one of the best swimbaits because of its perfect finesse presentation. I love how the Rhythm Wave’s tail will kick on the slowest of retrieves. Plus, the body has a good rocking action to give it a little more presence in the water. Another cool feature about this swimbait is the scale imitation body style stripes that go down across the entire swimbait. This helps give it a natural baitfish appearance in the water. The bass never fail to choke this swimbait down with some serious stoke!

Rigging Rhythm Wave Swimbaits

3.8 Prims Shad Jackall Rhythm Wave

1/8 Oz Gamakatsu Darter Jig Head

7′ Medium Heavy Spinning Rod & Size 30 Reel

Megabass Spark Shad Swimbait

I like the Megabass Spark Shad swimbait for a variety of reasons. It swims incredibly straight and the body style is a perfect representation of a small fish with the extra front fins. The tail will kick easily on a slow retrieve, and this swimbait comes in some awesome natural colors. The only downside to this swimbait is the eyes will fall off; however, this doesn’t detract the bass from chomping it down. The holes in the top of the bait also help make sure you get the bait rigged up perfectly straight every time. The Spark Shad swimbait really gets those bass “Kraken.”

Rigging Megabass Spark Shad Swimbaits

4″ Real Megabass Spark Shad

3/8oz. Megabass Body Balance Jig Head

Baitcasting 7″ Medium Heavy Rod & Baitcasting Reel

Keitech Fat Swing Impact Swimbait

The Keitech Fat Swing Impact Swimbait is really useful to keep ’em biting. I love the action on this swimbait. It is incredible. The body kick and the tail wag is perfect at the slowest of speeds. This swimbait works amazing as a trailer on a spinnerbait or a swim jig. Traditionally, this swimbait is used a lot on umbrella rigs too. Yet, it still crushes sitting straight on a lead jig head, slowly retrieved through the water. This swimbait is a bass-killer all season long.

Rigging Keitech Swing Impact Fat Swimbaits

4.8″ Ayu Keitech Fat Swing Impact1/4oz. Dirty Jigs Bluegill Swimbait HeadBaitcasting 7″ Medium Heavy Rod & Baitcasting Reel

Swimbait Fishing Video Demonstration

Here’s some footage of these 5 effective swimbaits being tested by me in one morning of fishing. Each of these swimbaits produced some decent bass. Hopefully, you can pick up a few tips from these clips on how to fish these lures as well. A good swimbait and some nice lures are, hands down, one of my favorite ways to catch bass. I hope these videos get you stoked to see how well a swimbait can work for you. Enjoy the vid!

Hopefully, this video and information will help you level up your game to catch more bass on a swimbait. Don’t forget to subscribe to the blog and follow @Krakenbass on all the main social media accounts to keep you up to speed with new posts and information to help you catch more big bass! I’d love to hear from you in the comments below to learn some of your favorite soft plastic swimbaits. There is something magical about these swimbaits that really get those bass “Kraken!”

As Always,

Stay Stoked!

Glue making has a long and rich history, possibly dating back to the Neolithic period and beyond. Not only was it used in weaponry, fastening arrowheads to arrows and the like, but there is also evidence that it was used to repair broken pottery. In this blog post, we will look at two types of primitive glues, hide glue and resin glue. As always, please feel free to read the whole blog or just click on the section that interests you the most. Remember, the only way to truly learn these techniques is to practice them in a real-world situation. Join our intermediate bushcraft course to learn more about these techniques.

• Making hide Glue
• Pine resin Glue
• Kit
• Further reading

Making hide glue

This section will give you a brief overview of the what, why and how behind hide glue. At its essence hide glue is made from extracting collagen from the hide, bones, sinew, etc. of an animal. It has been used throughout the years in everything from hunting bows to furniture and has even been found in Egyptian caskets.

Softening up the rawhide

The hide needs to be softened first. The method of doing this depends on where you are sourcing the hide from. The best method of doing this is to cut the hide, if you’re taking the glue from the hide, into small pieces, put it into a pot and cover it with water. The water should be allowed to reach a gentle simmer, not a rolling boil, and allow it to remain simmering until the hide becomes semi-transparent. This can take up to several hours so be patient.

Remove the pieces of hide

Use a strainer or the like to remove the pieces of hide from the substance. Leaving the liquid in the pan, strain out the big bits of the hide using a sieve or the like, then strain the liquid through a finer mesh, such as a cheesecloth, in order to remove the finer particle.

Cool the liquid

Allow the liquid to cool naturally. You will be left with a congealed, rubbery substance. This can then be broken up into small pieces and put aside to dry. These crumbled up bits can then be stored away somewhere waterproof and relatively airtight.

Using your glue

When you need to use your glue, take out as many of the small crumbled up bits as you think that you need and warm them slowly using as little water as possible. The more water that you add the thinner, and therefore weaker, the glue will be.

Making pine resin glue

Pine resin glue is, arguably, somewhat easier to make. It relies on using the pitch, or resin, that is excluded by some trees in order to help heal cuts in their bark.

Gathering the pine resin

As mentioned above, pine trees secrete resin in order to close cuts in their bark, and in doing so, reduce the risk of the tree becoming infected. Remember, treat the trees with respect and do not do anything which could damage them. The pine resin that is needed for glue can either be collected from dried, previously secreted, resin or from fresh running resin. If you’re collecting the hard resin, simply lever it off the tree using your knife. If collecting fresh, running resin, take it from trees that have been naturally grazed.

Prepare the pine resin

The pine resin should be prepared before use. In order to do this, heat the pine resin on a stone next to your fire and mix in some fine ash powder from the fire.

Using your pine resin

When it comes to using your pine resin glue it should be remembered that it dries very quickly. This means that the item that you’re intending to glue should be ready to receive the pine resin before you come to use the glue. In order to use the glue, simply heat up the ash and pine resin mix and then apply it to what you are hoping to glue and then let it cool.

Kit

There are a few key pieces of kit that you will need for making primitive glues. These are outlined below, remember though, you need to choose the kit that suits your purposes and abilities.

• Fallkniven DC4 This diamond/ceramic whetstone is perfect for use in the field. https://www.fallkniven.com/en/knife/dc4/
• Knives Wildway Bushcraft uses Bear Blades. “Constructed from superb quality D2 steel this knife is ideal for bushcraft and wood crafting. Our most popular knife due to its versatility and functionality, suited to tough daily use in the woods.” http://bearblades.co.uk/

When it comes to duck hunting, having the right decoys can make all the difference. To help you choose the best decoys for a successful hunting experience, we have compiled a list of the top 5 duck decoy companies, along with their top 3 decoys and why they are preferred by hunters. With these high-quality decoys in your arsenal, you’ll be well-equipped to attract and bag more ducks on your next hunting expedition.

Avian-X

Avian-X is a renowned brand known for its lifelike and realistic decoys. The brand was created by a group of passionate hunters who wanted to change the game in terms of realism and effectiveness in decoy design. They combine cutting-edge technology with years of field experience to produce innovative and lifelike decoys that attract more waterfowl. Avian-X offers a wide range of decoys designed to mimic a variety of duck species, each with unparalleled detail and realism. They also offer various poses and positions to create dynamic and convincing spreads that lure in wary ducks. With Avian-X, hunters can expect to experience unparalleled success on their hunts by bringing in more birds. The company prides itself on using only the highest-quality materials to ensure durability and longevity in their decoys, making them an investment that hunters can depend on season after season. Here are Avian-X’s top 3 decoys:

Avian-X Topflight Backwater Mallards

Avian-X Topflight Backwater Mallards are the ultimate choice for hunters targeting mallards in marshes, shallow water, or backwater areas. These decoys are specifically designed to mimic the natural postures and movements of mallards in these unique hunting environments. The Backwater Mallard decoys feature realistic paint schemes, intricate feather details, and lifelike body postures that make them virtually indistinguishable from live mallards. The attention to detail on these decoys is unmatched, allowing you to create an incredibly convincing spread that will attract even the most cautious ducks. Whether you’re hunting in flooded timber or small wetland areas, the Avian-X Topflight Backwater Mallards are sure to enhance your hunting success by bringing mallards in close for the perfect shot.

Avian-X Topflight Pintails

Avian-X Topflight Pintails are a must-have for any serious duck hunter. These decoys are meticulously crafted to replicate the unique features and behavior of pintail ducks with extraordinary accuracy. Their lifelike body postures and vivid paint schemes make them virtually indistinguishable from real pintails. The attention to detail, from the intricate feather patterns to the realistic eyes, is truly remarkable. These decoys draw in pintails from a distance, enticing them with their authentic appearance. With Avian-X Topflight Pintails in your decoy spread, you’ll have the confidence and edge needed to attract more pintails and increase your chances of a successful hunt.

Avian-X Topflight Canvasbacks

Avian-X Topflight Canvasbacks are a top-of-the-line choice for hunters targeting these elusive diving ducks. Known for their striking appearance and swift flight, canvasbacks can be a challenge to lure in. However, Avian-X has gone above and beyond to create incredibly realistic decoys that capture the unique characteristics of these birds. The Topflight Canvasbacks feature meticulously painted details that perfectly replicate the distinctive coloring, patterns, and feather textures of live canvasbacks. The attention to detail extends even to the realistic head positions and body postures, ensuring that these decoys look convincingly lifelike in the water. Whether you’re hunting in open water or along the shore, the Avian-X Topflight Canvasbacks are designed to maximize visibility and attract canvasbacks from a distance. With these decoys in your arsenal, you can significantly increase your chances of a successful canvasback hunt.

Flambeau Outdoors

Flambeau Outdoors is another trusted name in the duck decoy industry, celebrated for its innovation and top-quality products. Their decoys combine durability and realism, making them a favorite among hunters. Flambeau Outdoors is a renowned company that specializes in manufacturing high-quality outdoor products and gear. With a rich history that spans over seven decades, Flambeau is dedicated to providing innovative solutions for outdoor enthusiasts. Their hunting decoys, in particular, are highly regarded for their lifelike appearance and realistic features, making them a favorite among hunters. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or a novice adventurer, Flambeau Outdoors offers a wide selection of products that are designed to enhance your outdoor experience and help you succeed in the field. With Flambeau Outdoors, you can trust that you are investing in top-quality gear that will withstand the demands of the great outdoors. Here are Flambeau Outdoors’ top 3 decoys:

Flambeau Gunning Series Mallard Decoys

Flambeau Gunning Series Mallard Decoys are a popular choice among duck hunters. These decoys are designed with attention to detail and realistic features that make them almost indistinguishable from live mallards. Made of sturdy plastic, the Flambeau Gunning Series Mallard Decoys are both durable and lightweight. They come in a variety of poses, including swimmers, feeders, and high-head drakes, making for a varied and dynamic spread. They have vibrant, non-glare paints that are both water-resistant and durable. These decoys are the perfect tool to convince mallards that your hunting area is safe and appealing. With Flambeau Gunning Series Mallard Decoys in your spread, you can expect to attract more mallards and to get closer to them than ever before.

Flambeau Master Series Mallard Decoys

The Flambeau Master Series Mallard Decoys are the epitome of realism and effectiveness in waterfowl hunting. Each decoy in this series is meticulously crafted to replicate the natural appearance and behavior of live mallards. The attention to detail is remarkable, with intricate feather patterns, lifelike body postures, and vibrant paint schemes that mimic the subtle nuances of mallards in various stages of flight and landing. These decoys are made from durable and lightweight materials, ensuring that they can withstand the harsh conditions of any hunting expedition. The Flambeau Master Series Mallard Decoys also feature removable heads, allowing hunters to customize their decoy setup and simulate different poses and positions to deceive even the most wary ducks. With their unparalleled realism, these decoys create an irresistible allure that will attract mallards from afar, increasing your chances of a successful hunt. Whether you’re a seasoned waterfowl hunter or a passionate beginner, the Flambeau Master Series Mallard Decoys are the ultimate choice for enhancing your hunting experience and bringing more ducks into range.

The Storm Front Classic Mallard decoys excel in replicating the natural appearance and behavior of live mallards. The ultraviolet (UV) paint replicates the reflective properties of real feathers, creating an additional layer of realism that can fool wary ducks. With their versatility and affordability, these decoys are a popular choice for both experienced and novice hunters.

Flambeau Storm Front 2 Wigeon Decoys

The Flambeau Storm Front 2 Wigeon Decoys are a true game-changer when it comes to waterfowl hunting. These decoys are designed to perfectly replicate the natural coloring, feather patterns, and body postures of wigeons – a diving duck species known for its elegance and agility in the water. Each decoy in this set is expertly crafted and hand-painted to accurately simulate various poses and flight positions, creating a lifelike and convincing effect that will attract wigeons from a distance. The decoys are made with Flambeau’s proprietary polymer blend material, ensuring they hold up well in any hunting conditions. They feature a weighted keel and anchor points, which provide stability in the water and prevent rotation during high winds or strong currents. For added convenience, the Storm Front 2 Wigeon Decoys also feature a realistic high-definition paint scheme, which resists chipping and fading over time. If you’re looking for premium quality wigeon decoys that will optimize your hunting results and withstand the test of time, the Flambeau Storm Front 2 Wigeon Decoys are an excellent choice.

Higdon Decoys

Higdon Decoys is a leading company in the waterfowl industry. Based in Kentucky, USA, the company specializes in creating high-quality and realistic decoys that are designed for maximum hunting success. Higdon Decoys offers a wide range of decoy types, including duck, goose, and turkey decoys, as well as various accessories such as motion decoys, wobble bases, and jerk strings. The company takes pride in using only the highest quality materials and innovative manufacturing techniques to create lifelike decoys with exceptional durability. The decoys are designed by professional hunters to reflect the latest advancements in hunting strategies, and the company frequently collaborates with experienced hunters to develop new products for improved hunting outcomes. From the Higdon Magnum Mallard Duck Decoys to the Full-Body SuperMag Snow Goose Decoys, Higdon Decoys is committed to providing hunters with reliable, effective, and top-quality decoys that can withstand the rigors of frequent use in the toughest hunting conditions. Here are Higdon Decoys’ top 3 decoys:

Higdon Magnum Mallard Duck Decoys

The Higdon Magnum Mallard Duck Decoys are among the most realistic and effective decoys available on the market today. These decoys are designed to replicate the size, shape, and coloring of live mallard ducks, providing an incredibly lifelike appearance that ensures maximum attraction of real ducks. They are made from high-quality materials and feature detailed feather patterns that create a seamless illusion. Additionally, the decoys have vibrant paint schemes that can withstand heavy use and exposure to the elements. The Magnum Mallard Duck Decoys are also equipped with weighted keels that provide stability, promote natural movement in the water, and have anchor points for easy setup and placement. For added convenience, the decoys come in four unique body postures to add variety and realism to your spread. With their unmatched realism and attention to detail, the Higdon Magnum Mallard Duck Decoys are a top choice for serious waterfowl hunters who want to improve their success rate and add a touch of authenticity to their hunting experience.

Higdon Standard Redhead Duck Decoys

The Higdon Standard Redhead Duck Decoys are a top choice for waterfowl hunters seeking a realistic and effective decoy setup. This pack includes 12 Redhead duck decoys, each meticulously designed to replicate the size, shape, and coloring of Redhead ducks, ensuring a lifelike appearance that will attract even the most discerning ducks. The decoys are made from high-quality materials and feature vibrant paint schemes that are resistant to fading, ensuring long-lasting use. Their weighted keels and anchor points provide stability and allow for easy setup and positioning. The realistic body postures of these decoys add variety to your spread, enhancing the overall effectiveness of your hunting setup.

Higdon Outdoors Standard Ringneck Duck Decoys

The Higdon Outdoors Standard Ringneck Duck Decoys are a reliable and effective tool for waterfowl hunting enthusiasts. These decoys are specifically designed to replicate the appearance of Ringneck ducks, with meticulous attention to detail in color, feather patterns, and body shape. The foam-filled construction ensures durability and buoyancy, providing a lightweight yet sturdy decoy that can withstand rough water conditions. The decoys come with weighted keels and anchor points, allowing for easy setup and ensuring stability in the water. This lifelike setup, combined with the decoys’ realistic paint schemes, creates an irresistible attraction for Ringneck ducks, luring them into shooting range. The Higdon Outdoors Standard Ringneck Duck Decoys offer hunters an excellent decoy option that is built to last, providing both functionality and realism for a successful hunting experience.

Dakota Decoy Company

Dakota Decoy Company is a reputable and innovative company in the hunting industry. With a focus on premium and realistic decoys, the company has gained recognition among serious waterfowl hunters. Based in North Dakota, USA, Dakota Decoy Company prides itself on producing high-quality decoys that mimic the appearance and movement of various waterfowl species. From mallards to snow geese, their decoys exhibit exceptional attention to detail, ensuring a lifelike and convincing look. The company utilizes advanced manufacturing techniques and durable materials to create decoys that withstand the rigors of the field. Dakota Decoy Company is committed to continual improvement, constantly innovating and enhancing their products to provide hunters with even more effective hunting tools. With their dedication to quality and realism, Dakota Decoy Company has become a trusted name in the hunting community, delivering reliable and top-notch decoys that help hunters achieve optimal hunting success. Here are Dakota Decoy Company’s top 3 decoys:

Dakota X-Treme Mallard Decoys

The Dakota X-Treme Mallard Decoys are a game-changer for avid waterfowl hunters. These decoys, designed by Dakota Decoy Company, are specifically crafted to replicate the appearance and behavior of mallard ducks with unmatched realism. Each decoy is meticulously hand-painted, showcasing intricate feather patterns and vibrant colors that accurately simulate the look of live mallards. The attention to detail extends to the decoys’ body postures, which mimic various natural positions, adding depth and authenticity to your spread. Made from durable materials, these decoys are built to last and can withstand the toughest hunting conditions. The pack includes both hens and drakes for a balanced and diverse presentation. Thanks to their weighted keels, these decoys stay stable and perform convincingly in the water, even in the face of wind and waves. Increase your hunting success with the Dakota X-Treme Mallard Decoys, the epitome of lifelike realism and durability in the field.

Dakota Decoy Signature Series Upright Geese

The Dakota Decoy Signature Series Goose 6-Pack, the ultimate solution for waterfowl hunters seeking ultra-realistic and effective goose decoys. Made from durable EVA plastic, these decoys boast a one-piece body design that enhances their durability and resilience in harsh hunting conditions. With a meticulously designed mix of postures including one sentry, three walking actives, and two relaxed actives, this package provides a dynamic and ultra-realistic appearance that is bound to attract a wide range of waterfowl. The inclusion of the Wind Walker Motion Base allows the decoys to move naturally, increasing their appeal and successfully luring wary geese to your location. Additionally, the base eliminates the need for staking the decoys into the ground, further streamlining your hunting setup. The Dakota Decoy Signature Series Goose 6-Pack offers hunters a high-quality and innovative tool for a successful and productive hunting experience.

Dakota X-Treme Blue-Winged Teal Decoys

The Dakota X-Treme Blue-Winged Teal Decoys, a must-have for waterfowl hunters who are targeting these fast-flying and elusive ducks. These decoys are specifically designed to capture the unique characteristics and essence of Blue-Winged Teal with unparalleled detail. The attention to detail is evident in the decoys’ intricate feather patterns, vibrant colors, and realistic body postures that reflect the natural movement and behavior of these agile ducks. Crafted using the highest-quality materials, these decoys are built to withstand the challenges of the field, ensuring long-lasting performance season after season. The pack includes both drakes and hens, allowing you to create a balanced and convincing spread that will attract Blue-Winged Teal from a distance. Featuring weighted keels, these decoys stay securely anchored in the water, mimicking the tranquility and confidence of real Blue-Winged Teal. Elevate your waterfowl hunting experience with the Dakota X-Treme Blue-Winged Teal Decoys, the ultimate choice for dedicated hunters seeking to replicate the magic and excitement of hunting these speedy and beautiful birds.

Final Approach

Final Approach is a well-known manufacturer of high-quality, innovative, and field-proven hunting gear and accessories for waterfowl and other game bird hunters. Established in 1993, the company has dedicated itself to providing hunters of all skill levels with the gear and tools needed to achieve their hunting goals. At Final Approach, they have a deep understanding of the demands that hunters face when searching for game, which is why they have designed and tested their products to meet or exceed the needs of modern hunters. Their selection of hunting gear includes decoys, blinds, bags, accessories, and more, all made to the highest standards of craftsmanship and quality. By constantly innovating, experimenting, and perfecting their products, Final Approach has earned its place as a trusted provider of hunting gear for seasoned and new hunters alike.

Final Approach Last Pass Mallard Decoys

Final Approach Last Pass Mallard Floaters is a remarkable decoy that combines affordability with exceptional craftsmanship. These decoys are meticulously painted, providing a stunning and lifelike appearance that is sure to deceive even the most cautious waterfowl. Designed to be lightweight and compact, they are the ideal choice for hunters who need to traverse long distances to their hunting spots or are looking to maximize the number of decoys they can carry in a mesh bag or small boat. Built with the same rugged construction and durability as the renowned Live Series Mallards, these decoys are built to withstand the rigors of the hunting season. The new carvings, created by the 17-time World Champion Pat Godin, further enhance their authenticity and overall appeal. With their one-piece design, weighted keel, and cord lock system, these decoys ensure stability and ease of use. The 12-pack includes a balanced mix of 6 drakes and 6 hens, allowing hunters to create a diverse and enticing spread. Trust in the Final Approach Last Pass Mallard Floating Duck Decoys, 12 pack, or simply known as the Last Pass Mallard Floaters, to elevate your hunting game and attract waterfowl like never before.

Final Approach HD Blue Wing Teal Floater Decoys

The Final Approach HD blue wing teal decoys are the real deal, crafted with an unparalleled attention to detail that’s a testament to the new era of excellence in decoy craftsmanship. You’ll be amazed at the intricately sculpted heads and meticulously painted tails – they’re so realistic, they’ll make you do a double-take! If you’re looking for an effortless way to add some variety to your decoy spread and attract teal and other waterfowl, these decoys are a total game-changer. Designed for early season decoy spreads when these early birds are still around in many states, they’re the perfect choice for hunters who want to create a diverse and visually appealing spread that’s sure to catch the eye of passing waterfowl. With a 12-pack that includes a mix of 8 drakes and 4 feeder hens, you’ll have everything you need to create a dynamic decoy spread that’s bound to increase your chances of a successful hunt. So, grab your hunting buddies, set up around a campfire, and get ready to elevate your waterfowl hunting game with the Final Approach HD Bluewing Teal Floater Duck Decoys!

Final Approach HD Greenwing Teal Floater Decoys

Experience the excellence of the Final Approach HD Greenwing Teal Floater Duck Decoys – a game-changer for waterfowl hunters. With unmatched detail, these decoys bring your spread to life and attract teal or add variety. The 12-pack includes 8 drakes and 4 hens, crafted from premium plastic with a realistic, one-piece design. Expertly carved by Wayne Simkin, they blend seamlessly into their surroundings. Upgrade your spread with the Final Approach HD Greenwing Teal Floater Duck Decoys for a successful and unforgettable hunt.

With the variety of options available, choosing the right duck decoys can be overwhelming. The top 5 duck decoy companies highlighted in this article offer some of the best decoys for successful hunting experiences. Whether you’re targeting mallards, canvasbacks, scaup, teal, or Canada geese, these decoys deliver on realism, durability, and effectiveness. Each company offers a range of high-quality and effective decoys that cater to different hunting needs and preferences. Whether you choose Avian-X, Flambeau Outdoors, Final Approach, Higdon Decoys, or Dakota Decoy Company, you can trust that their top-decoys will enhance your hunting experience by attracting more ducks to your spread. Invest in these premium decoys and get ready for more successful hunts ahead. Happy hunting!

Ravin released the Ravin R29 back in early 2019. After months of waiting for this crossbow to arrive, I finally received it last week and today I can finally publish my review! It’s a very compact, lightweight, accurate and also very expensive crossbow.

Ravin is one of the leading brands in the crossbow industry together with TenPoint, Excalibur and Barnett. They always produce high-quality, highly accurate and powerful crossbows.

One of my first ever reviews I published was about the Ravin R29X and I was immensely impressed with that crossbow. Later in this review I’ll compare both crossbows as well, click here to skip to the comparison.

Ravin ships the Ravin R29 Predator Fully Assembled & Pre-Tuned. Included with this package are a 100 Yard Illuminated Scope, 6x Ravin .003 Arrows & Field Tips (400 Grain Total), 3-Arrow Quiver & Mounting Bracket, Removable Draw Handle, and an owner’s manual.

Ravin R29 Crossbow Features

First Impressions / Size and Weight

Like with any Ravin crossbow we’ve bought and tested so far, the Ravin R29 Predator Crossbow Package comes fully assembled and pre-tuned. Which means you can instantly take it out to the range for some target practice.

Pulling the Ravin R29 out of the box, you’ll instantly notice how compact and lightweight this crossbow is. It feels very comfortable to hold and the ergonomic foregrip is really well made as well. These Ravin foregrips are rubberized and one of the better ones out there.

The Ravin R29 crossbow has a total weight of only 6.75 pounds, length of 29 inches and a width of 10 inches uncocked and 6 inches cocked! Ravin rated the R26 to be the most compact crossbow on the market, but the R29 is only 3 inches longer and 0.25 inches wider. But the R29 shoots 30 feet per second faster at 430 FPS.

All Ravin crossbows come with HeliCoil technology, the Ravin R29 Predator Crossbow is no exception to that. This crossbow also comes with a built-in cocking mechanism and a removable crank.

This crossbow looks a lot like the Ravin R29X, but there’s some small differences. Click here to skip to the comparison section.

Arrows and Speed

The Ravin R29 is rated at 430 feet per second with a 400-grain Ravin arrow. With a power stroke of only 12.5 inches, the Ravin R29 still has a kinetic energy of 164.

Ravin includes 6 Ravin .003 Arrows & Field Tips with this package. These arrows have a total weight of 400 grains, the shaft weighs 300 grains and the field trips 100 grains.

These arrows use special nocks that are required to properly cock and load the Ravin R29. If you do not use Ravin nocks, your warranty will void!

Also included with this package is a 3-arrow quiver. This quiver does the job and it’s very easy to install or remove. The mounting bracket that the quiver attaches to is also used for the detachable draw handle for the cocking mechanism.

Optics

Ravin always makes sure to include a proper scope with their crossbows. Mounted on the Ravin R29 sits a 100-Yard Illuminated Scope. This scope is one of the best scopes that comes with a crossbow.

This 9-dot, red or green illuminated scope comes pre-tuned for 20 to 100 yards and features a variable speed and arrow drop compensation setting.

Of course, this scope is fog-, weather-, shock- and recoil proof for optimal durability.

If you’d like to extend the range of the Ravin R29 out to 200 yards, you can order a Jack Plate Elevation Scope Mount on Amazon!

Cocking

The only way to cock the Ravin R29 is with the Built-In Versa-Draw Cocking Mechanism. This built in cocking mechanism reduces the draw weight to only 12-pounds! Ravin also upgrade the cocking mechanism to be fully silent! No more sounds or clicking when you cock your crossbow. Because of the Trac-Trigger System it’s not possible to rope cock or cock this crossbow by hand.

The Trac-Trigger System slides along the rail to latch onto the center of the bowstring. Attach the removable draw handle to use the versa-draw cocking mechanism to cock the Ravin R29. Once you’ve fully cocked the crossbow, the trigger will automatically engage.

You can mount the removable crank next to quiver.

Trigger and Safety Features

Ravin installed a trigger that works together with the Trac-Trigger system. It breaks at around 3 pounds and has some creep. For a crossbow at this price level, I really hope this will go away once I’ve shot it a couple more times.

After cocking the Ravin R29, the trigger will automatically engage. The Anti-Dry Fire and safety switch will also automatically engage. The anti-dry fire mechanism will only disengage once you’ve loaded a .003 Ravin arrow. It takes about 10 pounds of force to get it loaded correctly, you’ll hear a click once it’s correctly loaded.

Assembly and Sighting-In

Ravin ships the Ravin R29 fully assembled and pre-tuned. Due the shipping of the crossbow, Ravin removed the scope from the stock. If the package gets knocked during shipping, the scope can get damaged or is not sighted in properly anymore.

Mount the scope, quiver bracket and quiver on the stock of the Ravin R29 and you’re ready to take it out to the range or a hunting trip! I made sure to use some levels to make sure the scope and stock are completely level.

Sighting in the scope wasn’t needed, Ravin already pre-tuned the scope correctly!

Range Test

Because of the compact and lightweight design of the Ravin R29, it’s a really comfortable crossbow to hold. This crossbow is great for hunting in tight spaces, hunting blinds or tree stands.

Cocking this crossbow is really easy to do. It’s also finally fully silent. Unfortunately, you’re not able to let go mid-draw unlike TenPoint’s ACUslide. Ravin’s Versa-Draw reduces the effort to cock this crossbow to only 12 pounds of force.

Load the Ravin .003 arrow with the white vane point down. It takes quite a bit of force to actually load the arrow properly, once you’ve loaded it correctly, you’ll hear a click. It’s now ready to shoot!

Note: It’s impossible to put the safety to fire with your trigger-hand. It’s placed a bit weird at the end of the stock.

Sighting in the scope was not needed and I was getting really tight groups at 50-yards. Shooting the Ravin R29 at closer distances will greatly increase the chances of splitting arrows. Its accuracy is just ridiculous.

Ravin is always spot on with their speed ratings, so I expect this crossbow to also hit the advertised speeds of 430 feet per second. I managed to see speeds of 429, 427 and 429 FPS on our chronograph. Ravin really builds high-quality crossbows.

I decided to move the target to 100 yards to see how tight my groupings were. I shot 3 arrows and managed to get a 2-inch group. The arrows were still pretty deep inside the target as well. This means that you should be able to take out animals at 100 yards easily!

You’ll definitely feel the power that the Ravin R29 has to offer. It has some recoil, not enough to hurt to hurt anyone though.

This crossbow comes without any string or limb dampeners or other silencing features pre-installed. Without these features the R29 is already a pretty silent crossbow. But, if you’re already spending this much cash on a crossbow though, you’ll definitely want to get some limb dampers. This will greatly reduce the vibrations that goes through the limbs and reduce the noise even more.

Ravin R29 vs Ravin R29X

The R29X is the newer and faster brother of the R29. Below is a quick specification comparison of both crossbows.

As you can see there’s not much difference. The R29X shoots arrows at 20 feet per second faster and has a different scope mounted. This tactical scope with elevation mount extends the range of the crossbow out to 200 yards!

You can buy the elevation mount for the R29 as well, but the R29 might lack some power to actually get consistent accurate shots for 200-yard distances.

Recommended Accessories

Arrows & Broadheads

Ravin features a big warning in the owner’s manual; “Use of arrows, nocks, strings or cables other than genuine Ravin components.” You’re only allowed to use Ravin branded arrows and nocks with the R29 crossbow. Ravin also states: “Use of fixed-blade broadheads with a maximum diameter greater than 1 5/8” with the model R29.”

Because of that I can only recommend to use Ravin arrows, there’s an exclusion to broadheads though. You can’t pick any broadhead that has a cutting diameter greater than 1 5/8”. I recommend to use the HME fixed blade broadheads in combination with the Ravin arrows for hunting.

Storage

To protect your crossbow during travel, transportation and storage, it’s best to store it in a case. I highly recommend to get the Ravin soft crossbow case. This crossbow case fits the R29 the best and has plenty of room for your arrows, field points, broadheads and other accessories you might want to bring with you.

Sling

Ravin offers 2 different slings for this crossbow. The first one is a padded shoulder sling and the second is a backpack sling. Both have different uses. I highly recommend to just get the shoulder sling and use the soft crossbow case for transportation.

Final Rating of the Ravin R29

(Last Updated On: October 5, 2024)

When you are making sausages at home, the type of fat you want to use depends sometimes on the type of fat you can get.

The big assumption is that all fat is the same – but it is not quite like that.

When making sausages it’s either fresh sausage, smoked/cooked (hot smoked) sausage, or a type of dry-cured salami sausage; I love making all of them, that is why I started this website eatcuredmeat.

I want to elaborate on the best techniques I’ve discovered over the years to make my sausage with fat.

All pork fat is not the same, because it depends what part of the pig it comes from.

Important factors are also how hard the fat is and what melting point it has.

Pure back fat is the best choice, Boston butt or shoulder fat is an alternative depending on the ratio of meat to fat. Often this ratio is 20-25% fat in Boston butt or shoulder which is suitable for sausage making.

Different Types of Pork Fat for Sausage

Hard Pork Fat

My resources for back-fat to make sausages or salami are a commercial bacon company and also a good local butcher.

About 15 years ago, when I started sausage making, I could get pork fat for free from any butcher. The challenge nowadays is, that many butchers don’t cut up animals anymore – they are retailers sometimes.

Their meats/sausages arrive in boxes already processed at a central meat works and they will then just displayed and sold.

I was super lucky to come across a pig’s head for sale the other day. To take the jowl off was quite straightforward. First I wanted to use it for sausages, but I decided to make a dry-cured Guanciale (Italian cured meat) from each one, they say it’s like pancetta but different.

It was quite a firm piece of pork and the first one I extracted from a pig’s head. It was interesting to see the texture and the interconnective fat that was embedded into the meat.

It was actually similar to the marbled fat of a Boston pork cut from the upper shoulder (it depends, of course, on the age of the pig).

As you can imagine, this part of the animal’s head gets a lot of muscle movement from chewing. So, this meat was incredibly firm compared to all the other cuts of pork I use.

Shoulder or Boston butt carries marbling fat throughout the meat rather than white fat and meat separated (if you get a whole shoulder you do get bands of this as well). That is why it’s popular for low & slow bbq smoking/cooking because the embedded fat will melt and moisten the meat when it’s cooked in the butt.

When making sausages you can see the meat or fat you’ll be grinding, and whether it has more or less fat than the meat – to figure out your ratio (more on this below).

I am not talking about the different types of fresh sausages, that are emulsified or processed for a more generic texture such as hot dog or baloney.

Soft Pork Fat

Pork belly can still work for making sausages – it’s only an issue if you don’t keep it at or near freezing point temperature.

If you’re just learning about sausages, this is definitely one of the key points to remember: Always have your meat and fat at near near-freezing point.

With the mechanical process of mincing or grinding meat, the movement will create heat, and the heat can smear/mix the meat and fat together, which is not ideal when making sausages.

Unless your target is an emulsified, more generic consistency.

I’ve used pork belly for making fresh sausages and salami without an issue, but I’ve also been very careful keeping things around freezing point.

That’s why we use sometimes a large 1 (hp) horsepower meat grinder. We place the attachment and auger in the freezer, so when the grinding starts, everything is kept a little bit cooler. Can do this also with the 1/2 hp grinder below.

What is the Best Fat to Meat Ratio for Sausage

A 20% minimum fat-to-meat ratio is required for making most types of sausage. The maximum allowed fat in certain commercial sausages is 50%. 25-30% is ideal for many sausage recipes.

If you don’t have enough fat in sausages, it’s a waste of all the effort. The dryness makes the whole sausage nearly inedible.

Trust me I’ve been there and done that – this is not a nice outcome.

Recently I tried to reproduce the 700-year-old Bavarian Nuremberg bratwurst sausage, which you can enjoy in restaurants and also as street food around Nuremberg, Germany.

Looking through many recipes for this, I decided on 40% of pork fat. This is a very delicious sausage that literally melts in your mouth! (LOTS of marjoram, white pepper, allspice)

I’ve also found it’s quite hard to judge pork belly in terms of the fat-to-meat ratio. It just depends on how fatty the pig is and what age. Often older pigs = more fat!

Generally speaking 20 to 25% would be a rough guide for the ratio of fat to meat for pork belly.

What Cuts of Meat for Sausage

Shoulder, front leg, back leg, belly, or even the jowl or cheek of pork.

To be honest, the pig head had not much meat, apart from the jowl cheek. The jowl is on the outside of the cheek. Just for information and just in case, you want to cook the tongue – it tastes a bit like liver!

Key tips I’ve learned over the years for making sausages.

The first tip is: Taking time to remove the sinew is really important for having a good finished product. The worst thing is when you find bits of connective tissue in the sausage.

Any lymph nodes or non-meat bits should be removed. Blood doesn’t help either and spoils faster than meat. Take your time and remove it, as best as you can.

The second big tip is: Always do a test pattie after you have done your grinding and adding salt and spices.

If you’ve done your binding right by mixing it together then it should be tacky and sticky.

Another tip: If you make patties and squish it onto your palm, and hold your hand upside down, does it fall off? If it does, the meat and fat need more binding, so you have to work it more or let the dough hook do it.

I’ve read in meat science textbooks, that the myosin is then released in the meat which creates this desirable ‘tackiness’.

As I said earlier fry up a little meat patty – try it and you will know what the finished product would be like.

Another tip – Be extra careful deboning, I’ve left a cartilage chunk in the meat when deboning a leg of venison. Oh dear, the chunks were spread across 80 pounds / 40 kg of sausage!

Venison, Beef, and many other types of meat can be incorporated, as long as they have that 25% fat (in some recipes where the meats are more emulsified, olive oil or rapeseed oil is being added to the meat without the fat).

Always keep in mind for a non-emulsified fresh sausage you still want 25% fat to meat ratio to make it work.

I often use very lean wild meat like venison for my sausages which has to have the added fat.

Using Fat That Isn’t Pork for Sausage

Beef, chicken, and lamb fat can be used for making sausage – although, these meats have a different taste that isn’t neutral like pork fat.

Beef Fat

Beef fat is often yellow in color, so it can change the whole look of these sausages without dabbling into the other additives. Sometimes it’s more white, maybe depending on grain or grass-fed.

Always go for grass-fed, grain-fed is normally more intensive reared.

It has a certain flavor that definitely is far from neutral, compared to pork fat.

It’s still completely enjoyable, it depends on your personal preferences.

Chicken Fat

Chicken sausages made with chicken thighs have a lot of the fat incorporated into the meat, often blends intermuscular. That’s also why, if you fry thighs it’s very hard to overcook them!

I’ve eaten chicken sausages but I haven’t made them, so I can’t tell about this one.

Lamb Fat

Definitely has a taste of its own, and again it’s far from neutral. First, you have to like the fat flavor. The flavor of lamb sausages also depends on the age of the animal and whether being fed on the milk of the mother only. Older sheep’s meat/fat (mutton) for sausages has a very distinctive flavor and needs LOTS of garlic and rosemary for a kind of ‘funky’ flavor (in my mum’s opinion / it’s a classic combo).

Grind or Cutting Fat for Sausage

It completely depends on whether you’re making salami or a fresh sausage and on the sizes of your grinding plates.

For a smaller 25 or 28-mm sausage, a maximum of 4-6 mm when you are grinding, would be appropriate.

But for a 50 or 60-mm dry cured salami, you may be better at cubing the fat 5-12mm.

This is important for the type of sausage you want to make. Cubing the fat is another option for a more visual aspect.

.270 Winchester

Being a Western guy, I have psychological issues with choosing the best caliber for just one species. Me, I want to be able to shoot anything from coyotes to moose with the durned thing.

So while it’s not short and fat and it’s not a fire-breathing magnum dragon, Winchester’s classic .270 gets it done on most anything, assuming shrewd projectile choice.

Whitetail hunting offers perhaps more variation in shot type and animal size than any other North American big game, so it behooves hunters to shoot a cartridge capable of making the most of any situation. Whether you’re threading a timbered needle-hole toward a massive Wisconsin corn-eater or driving a steeply raking shot into the hip of a 280-pound Saskatchewan monster, the .270 Winchester kills whitetails as well as any cartridge – and far better than most.

Importantly, it does so without beating up the shooter. Recoil generated by a .270 Winchester is just a shade past comfortable, but it’s not painful.

Some might argue that the .270 is more cartridge than one needs for whitetails. My condolences to those poor misguided souls. I hope that someday when they lay the crosshairs on a heavy-boned, densely muscled, rutted-up northern buck and its shaggy coat and testosterone-filled attitude, it will lead them to the light.

As for bullet, any good 130- to 150-grain bullet makes wonderful whitetail medicine, but I’d go with Nosler’s outstanding 140-grain AccuBond. It’s tough enough to hold together through shoulder bones, expands dramatically, wreaks havoc on vitals, and is fairly aerodynamic, enabling skillful hunters to reach way out there if need be.

Part of what makes it so great is that a hunter can walk into just about any country gas station and buy a box of .270 cartridges.

-Joseph von Benedikt

.257 Weatherby Magnum

It’s human nature to want the most bang for the buck, and few are satisfied with a cartridge that is ideally suited for just one job. Instead, they opt for a jack-of-all-trades cartridge. The good news is there are cartridges that will do decent work on everything from mice to moose, but the bad news is they don’t do any one thing particularly well.

The .270 Winchester fits into this category. It was my first rifle, and I killed a pile of game with it. I’ve learned since, when possible, to match the caliber to the game. Since many hunters hunt strictly whitetails, why not pick a cartridge that is the right tool for the job?

For me, the best whitetail cartridge is the .257 Weatherby Magnum. Invented by Roy Weatherby in 1944, it was his favorite cartridge as well. Why? Because it has low recoil and a laser-like trajectory, and it kills quicker than any cartridge has a right to. Spitting out a 100-grain bullet at 3,500 fps, no other commercially produced deer round has such a flat trajectory.

This means that without a lot of thinking, or confusing ballistic reticles, or scope adjustments, a hunter can place a bullet in the vitals from spitting distance all the way out past 400 yards simply by holding the crosshairs in the middle of the deer.

While there are factory loads featuring 87-grain pills up to 120-grainers, deer hunters will do well to stay in the middle of the spectrum at 100 grains. Smart money selects premium bullets because the cartridge’s high velocity tends to tear lesser bullets apart. Monolithic solids, Bear Claws, and Partitions all work great on deer and carry the magical 1,000 ft.-lbs. of energy out past 600 yards for true long-range performance.

So regardless of whether your whitetails are of the tiny Couse variety or great, swollen-necked Saskatchewan giants, the .257 Weatherby Magnum is the ideal cartridge bar none.

-Mike Schoby

Some years back, I was invited to hunt rabbits with a group of dedicated houndsmen who loved to run (and shoot) rabbits with their beagles. The day had been a relative success with our group scoring on about 18 rabbits for the day. For my personal efforts, I had managed to pull the trigger on a small number of the critters, missing a couple and accounting for a few in the final bag. The hunt had reminded me how enjoyable a small-game hunt can be—no stressed strategizing to score on the biggest racked trophy around or overly tactical effort like calling a longbeard to the gun—just trying to nab game as it appeared for the sake of shooting and adding to the bag limit. The whole experience left me wanting more.

The problem was, I didn’t have a pack of beagles. But I knew some places where I had frequently seen rabbits, both on my farm and my brother’s, so I decided to set off for some brush with a shotgun stoked with No. 6s draped across the crook of my arm. The results were surprising. While I didn’t bag as many rabbits on that first solo effort due to some tricky shooting, I scared up a lot more than I had expected. The effort opened up a new world of hunting to me. With rabbit season where I live running well into February, long after most other seasons have closed, it’s a great opportunity to grab another day or two of time outdoors and, with a little effort, enjoy a bit of exercise that typically results in more meat for stews or to accompany a side dish of risotto.

Whether you’re hunting solo or with a buddy or two, hunting rabbits without hounds is a relatively simple affair with good odds for success. Rabbits are abundant anywhere wild cover is available, meaning you are almost certain to find game. Here’s how to score on your own rabbit adventures.

Find ‘Em FirstRabbits don’t travel far between cover and food so one of the best places to find them is in thick, brushy areas right next to where they like to eat—open grassy areas with clovers and broadleaf weeds, or crop fields that have been planted in soybeans, peanuts, wheat, alfalfa and the like. Brushy patches of blackberries, honeysuckle, blueberry and other viney, tangled brush provide great cover for animals where they can feed without fear of being nabbed by avian predators. Brushy ditches and fencerows through fields, as well as brush piles and windrows, also provide excellent havens.

In the deep winter chill, brushy areas on south-facing slopes (or in flat-land the side of cover facing the sun) can be more productive, as rabbits will slip to the edge of their hideout and sun themselves for warmth.

In many areas where deer hunters have worked to establish lush, green plots to attract whitetails, you’ll find the overgrown edges bordering these deer magnets will also harbor a nice population of bunnies. The brushier the borders around these open areas, the better. Rabbits will also grow thick in overgrown clearcuts that have repopulated with small saplings that provide abundant twigs and bark for rabbits to chew on.

Gearing UpIt doesn’t take much to pull off a rabbit hunt, but a few key items will certainly make it more successful and comfortable for you. Some guys are content to sit at field edges at dawn or dusk, looking to snipe a few targets as they appear to feed, and for that, a precision-scoped .22 is ideal. This is a fine way to hunt them that will definitely produce, but after a season of sitting in a stand for whitetails, I personally don’t want to sit and wait for rabbits. I want to go after them and kick them up, which means using the scattergun. A 12-gauge remains the most versatile game gun for any sportsman, and without a doubt, serves the rabbit hunter ably, but I prefer a lighter, more compact 20-gauge for tromping brush and swinging in cover. The smaller, well-pointed charge, loaded with No. 6 shot is more than ample for rabbits.

Because you will likely be traipsing through thick, briar-laced cover to kick these creatures into the open, your legs will take some abuse. For this, a good pair of vinyl-faced brush pants or heavy chaps are a must, along with light, but durable boots with leather or Cordura uppers for walking. I like an old-style canvas upland game jacket too, with a lined nylon game pouch built into the rear for toting a brace as you collect the small treasures. A small backpack can also do the trick for keeping your hands free for more shooting.

When hunting with others, safety orange vests and/or hats are a really good idea, too, since hunters are generally obscured by the thick cover in which rabbits are found, yet are in close proximity to each other while hunting them.

Walk ‘Em UpMy favorite and most productive hunts are in spots where the brush is no more than waist-high and surrounded by relatively open ground that a bolting rabbit has to cross for an exposed shot. With your shotgun at the ready, simply plunge in and slowly walk a zigzag pattern—keeping your eyes alert for flashes of brown—and listen for scurrying ahead of you. Pause frequently, creating an almost herky-jerky approach that will leave rabbits guessing which way you are about to go and making them nervous. A nervous rabbit is one ready to move. I like to walk slowly for about 10 to 15 paces and then pause 20 to 30 seconds before moving on. This seems to work well. When working overgrown cutovers, look for areas that are no more than two to three years old. More than that, and they will be so grown up that while they’ll harbor plenty of rabbits, seeing and shooting them may be next to impossible.

A hunter can walk plenty of rabbit-rich brush, but if it is so thick he can’t see more than a few feet in front of him, then it will be a lot of wasted effort. Like the smaller patches of brush and tangles of honeysuckle and briars I prefer to hit, other good spots that offer the perfect blend between hideout and visibility include fencerows and ditches in fields as well as brush piles pushed up at the edge of open woods. Whether hunting rabbits or other species, I try to note these high-production spots throughout the season and return to them time and again when hunting for rabbits.

If hunting with partners, take turns with one guy working brush in this manner, while the others post slightly ahead, repositioning quietly and frequently as you progress. When hunting in pairs, hunters can also flank each other, standing 15 to 20 yards apart depending on the amount of brush they’re working, and alternate walking ahead of each other and pausing.

Hunting rabbits is really no more difficult than that—its simplicity in approach and execution, a big part of what makes it so much fun.

Having survived prowling predators, the whitetail fawn now matures.

Spring gives way to warm days as the summer season nears. Pesky insects start to dominate the woodlots and open fields. For the young whitetails that survived the pursuit of predators, now their lives of growing into mature deer begin to unfold.

If the parenting female doesn’t reject her offspring, which is usually due to nutritional stress, a hormonal imbalance, inexperienced first-time mothers or disease, then the process of maternal guidance is under way.

The deer fawn, although it possesses certain inborn survival instincts, still takes its lead from its mother. Foremost are concealed bedding sites, which are pre-chosen by the mother. If these locales remain undisturbed, she will use them year after year — especially if she has raised young before.

These bedding sites are essential for the fawn to conserve energy and digest nutrients for growth. The fawn is growing rapidly by now, but it still spends the majority of time bedding.

By its mother’s vocal commands and through scent-bonding, the fawn learns where these sites are within days after birth. Bedding locales, through the mother’s lead, are reinforced. The fawn can also go to bed on its own or by her cue as it matures. Besides nutrition, this aspect of the fawn’s development is crucial as to whether the infant survives and properly matures.

The mother also guides the newborn to specific feeding areas, and of course, the fawn quickly learns where the nutrients are. Besides periodically nursing from its mother, the deer fawn within just a few weeks after birth is able to forage on its own. Yet it’s still dependent on the protein content of its mother’s milk.

Deer researchers have determined that the nourishing milk of whitetails is high not only in protein but fat and vitamins as well. It also possesses colostrum, which is basically an antibiotic to resist disease.

These bedding sites and feeding locales are continually imprinted through the mother’s scent and visual guidance. Along with its inborn instincts for survival, the newborn learns to adapt and survive.

At times, the fawn is highly frisky — darting to and fro from its mother and other deer. Here, the young deer sharpens its skill to evade predators. Also, playful behavior is associated with the social order of deer as well. These behaviors and responses from the herd can determine the fawn’s status within the herd even at a young age. However, this socialization is usually more intense with female fawns than young bucks, which will eventually disperse on their own.

If nutrition and fertility are on course, females can easily give birth to twin fawns. The two youngsters are usually close together, and tend to watch out for one another. Overall, if the doe isn’t a first-time mother, her offspring from previous years will also put their eyes and ears to work — staying keen to predators. Although there are exceptions, this is typically the trend once the fawns are mature enough and accepted into the fold of older deer.

Although a button buck usually stays with its mother during its first year, there are rare situations when the young male unites with a bachelor group of bucks. Otherwise, the button buck stays with the female clan — eventually going out on its own the following year. Also, button bucks can be forced away temporarily by both dominant males and breeding females when procreation calls during the rutting season.

Gradually, the parenting female begins to shun the buck fawn — sometimes kicking and swatting at it when it attempts to nurse. She may even actually kick and charge the young male. Although the infant may stay within her range through the winter, she usually doesn’t show it any maternal attention by then.

A normal buck fawn can be rejected by its mother, yet it can also be naturally inclined to disperse on its own as well. The instinct to procreate drives it to seek out mates. In time, he leaves the doe herd on his own — even if the mother doesn’t drive him off.

Whether the button buck is on its own or within the close-knit clan of its mother and her offspring, it can easily be mistaken for a female deer — especially if antlerless harvest is on the agenda. Here, proper identification of a young male deer is crucial when certain laws are implemented for taking whitetails or if one is practicing QDM. Although it’s currently legal to take a young button buck without a polished antler above the hairline, most hunters want to pass on young males — giving them the opportunity to grow and mature. Simply, button bucks are considered to be an antlerless harvest. However, always check the current regulations to be sure the law hasn’t changed.

A button buck usually stands out from females. Of course, by the end of the summer, most female and male deer fawns have lost their spots. Body formations are a way to distinguish male from female. Young male deer have shorter necks and are somewhat squared in comparison to long-necked does. Usually the female is longer than the button buck. He also tends to wander from the females from time to time, and forages on his own.

Basically the fastest way to determine a button buck is to look for small growth on its forehead where the pedicels are located between its ears. Usually by the fall, some button bucks actually have small, undeveloped antlers protruding up, but are covered by hair. Depending on nutrition and genetics, some button bucks may even sprout a small set of spikes, but this is extremely rare.

The following year is when antler growth becomes more noticeable as the button buck grows and matures into a 1½-year-old antlered deer.

Female fawns usually stay with the doe clan for a couple of years or until they become first-time mothers.

For whitetails to reach maturity and maintain procreation, nutrition and the quality thereof is extremely important. That’s next month’s topic.