Now, let’s get to the question at hand: do eagles eat cats?

The short answer is yes, they can. However, it’s not a common occurrence.

Eagles are fascinating creatures, known for their majestic flight and sharp talons.

But have you ever wondered what they eat?

Read Aslo: Do Alligators Eat Ducks?

Eagles and Cats

They are opportunistic hunters and will go after any prey that presents itself as an easy target.

Cats, especially outdoor cats, can be vulnerable to eagle attacks if they are outside and unattended.

This is more likely to happen in areas where eagles are abundant and there is a shortage of other prey.

Real-Life Examples

There have been a few documented cases of eagles attacking and eating cats.

In 2015, a bald eagle was captured on camera carrying off a small domestic cat in British Columbia, Canada.

Similarly, in 2019, a golden eagle was spotted carrying a dead cat in its talons in Scotland. These incidents are rare, but they do happen.

How to Protect Your Cat

If you’re a cat owner, you may be wondering what you can do to protect your furry friend from eagle attacks.

The best thing you can do is keep your cat indoors.

Not only will this protect them from potential eagle attacks, but it will also keep them safe from other outdoor dangers like cars and other animals.

If you must let your cat outside, make sure you supervise them and don’t leave them outside for long periods of time.

You can also invest in a cat enclosure that will allow your cat to enjoy the outdoors while still being protected from predators.

5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:

1. Keep Your Cat Indoors

One of the most effective ways to protect your cat from eagle attacks is to keep them indoors.

This section will discuss the benefits of indoor cats, including protection from predators like eagles.

We will provide tips on how to keep your cat stimulated and happy while indoors, and how to create a safe and comfortable indoor environment.

2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside

If you do allow your cat outside, it is important to supervise them to minimize the risk of an eagle attack.

This section will provide tips on how to monitor your cat’s outdoor activities, including how to use a harness and leash, and how to create a safe outdoor enclosure.

3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure

For cat owners who want to provide their cats with outdoor access, a secure outdoor enclosure can be a good compromise.

This section will provide tips on how to create a secure outdoor enclosure for your cat, including how to choose the right materials and how to design the enclosure to prevent eagle attacks.

4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season

Eagles are most likely to attack cats during their nesting season, which varies depending on the species and location.

This section will provide advice on how to be vigilant during eagle nesting season, including how to recognize signs of eagle activity and how to adjust your cat’s outdoor routine during this time.

5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife

Protecting wildlife, including eagles, is a community effort.

This section will discuss how cat owners can work with their communities to protect wildlife habitats and reduce the risk of eagle attacks.

We will provide tips on how to get involved in local conservation efforts and how to educate others about the importance of coexisting with wildlife.

Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky

Eagles are powerful and majestic birds of prey known for their keen eyesight and impressive hunting skills.

This section will provide an overview of the different species of eagles, their habitats, and their role as top predators in the ecosystem.

We will discuss how eagles use their sharp talons and beaks to capture and kill their prey, and examine the different types of prey that they typically hunt.

The Diet of Eagles

Eagles are birds of prey and are known for their carnivorous diet.

They primarily hunt small mammals such as rodents, rabbits, and squirrels, but they also eat larger prey like deer and coyotes.

Eagles have even been known to attack and eat other birds, including other raptors like hawks and owls.

What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet

In this section, we will explore the diverse diet of eagles and the different types of prey that they hunt.

We will discuss the hunting techniques that eagles use to capture their prey, including aerial attacks and swooping dives.

We will also look at how eagles adapt their hunting strategies to their environment and the availability of food sources.

Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences

This section will delve into the main question of the article: can eagles eat cats?

We will examine the factors that influence an eagle’s choice of prey, including the size and agility of the prey, and the eagle’s own physical capabilities.

We will also discuss whether domestic cats are a common prey item for eagles, and if so, in what circumstances.

Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know

Sadly, eagle attacks on pets are not uncommon in areas where eagles and domestic animals coexist.

This section will provide examples of reported eagle attacks on domestic pets, including cats.

We will also discuss the signs that an eagle may be targeting a pet, and provide advice on what to do if you suspect an eagle is threatening your pet.

Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe

For pet owners who live in areas where eagles are known to hunt, there are several steps you can take to keep your pets safe.

This section will provide practical advice on how to minimize the risk of eagle attacks, including keeping your pets indoors or supervised when outside, and securing outdoor enclosures as eagles eat cats.

The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence

Eagles and other wildlife play a critical role in the ecosystem, and it is important to protect them and their habitats.

In this section, we will discuss the importance of conservation efforts to preserve eagle populations and their prey.

We will also explore the concept of coexistence and how humans can learn to live alongside eagles and other wildlife.

Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World

Eagles have been a part of human mythology and culture for thousands of years.

This section will share interesting myths and legends about eagles from different cultures around the world.

From Native American traditions to ancient Greek mythology, we will explore the many ways that eagles have been revered and celebrated throughout history.

Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife

We will emphasize the importance of respecting and protecting all types of wildlife, and share resources for those interested in learning more about eagle conservation and coexistence.

FAQs

Are cats scared of eagles?

Yes, cats are usually scared of eagles because eagles are natural predators and can pose a threat to them.

Is an eagle stronger than a cat?

Yes, eagles are much stronger than cats.

They have powerful talons and can carry prey that is much heavier than a cat.

Do eagles eat animals?

Yes, eagles are carnivorous and primarily eat other animals.

Their diet consists mainly of fish and small mammals such as rabbits and rodents.

Do eagles attack humans?

Eagles do not usually attack humans, but they can become aggressive if they feel threatened or if their territory is invaded.

What is eagle afraid of?

Eagles are afraid of large predators such as bears and wolves, as well as humans.

They may also be scared of loud noises and sudden movements.

Can a human win a fight with an eagle?

No, it is highly unlikely that a human could win a fight against an eagle.

Eagles are powerful predators with sharp talons and a strong beak.

What is more powerful than an eagle?

There are few predators that are more powerful than an eagle, but some examples include grizzly bears, crocodiles, and killer whales.

What is the biggest bird of prey?

The largest bird of prey is the Andean condor, which can have a wingspan of over 10 feet and weigh up to 33 pounds.

Read Also: Can Ducks Eat Sunflower Seeds? What You Need To Know

Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?

Eagles are much stronger than humans in terms of physical abilities such as strength and speed.

What is the weakness of an eagle?

One weakness of an eagle is that they are vulnerable to environmental threats such as habitat loss, pollution, and climate change.

They may also be susceptible to disease and parasites.

Eagles are opportunistic hunters and will go after any prey that presents itself as an easy target.

As a cat owner, it’s important to take precautions to keep your cat safe from potential eagle attacks.

Whether that means keeping them indoors or supervising them while they’re outside, it’s better to be safe than sorry as eagles eat cats.

They are opportunistic hunters and will go after any prey that presents itself as an easy target.

Cats, especially outdoor cats, can be vulnerable to eagle attacks if they are outside and unattended.

This is more likely to happen in areas where eagles are abundant and there is a shortage of other prey.

Real-Life Examples

There have been a few documented cases of eagles attacking and eating cats.

In 2015, a bald eagle was captured on camera carrying off a small domestic cat in British Columbia, Canada.

Similarly, in 2019, a golden eagle was spotted carrying a dead cat in its talons in Scotland. These incidents are rare, but they do happen.

How to Protect Your Cat

If you’re a cat owner, you may be wondering what you can do to protect your furry friend from eagle attacks.

The best thing you can do is keep your cat indoors.

Not only will this protect them from potential eagle attacks, but it will also keep them safe from other outdoor dangers like cars and other animals.

If you must let your cat outside, make sure you supervise them and don’t leave them outside for long periods of time.

You can also invest in a cat enclosure that will allow your cat to enjoy the outdoors while still being protected from predators.

5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:

1. Keep Your Cat Indoors

One of the most effective ways to protect your cat from eagle attacks is to keep them indoors.

This section will discuss the benefits of indoor cats, including protection from predators like eagles.

We will provide tips on how to keep your cat stimulated and happy while indoors, and how to create a safe and comfortable indoor environment.

2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside

If you do allow your cat outside, it is important to supervise them to minimize the risk of an eagle attack.

This section will provide tips on how to monitor your cat’s outdoor activities, including how to use a harness and leash, and how to create a safe outdoor enclosure.

3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure

For cat owners who want to provide their cats with outdoor access, a secure outdoor enclosure can be a good compromise.

This section will provide tips on how to create a secure outdoor enclosure for your cat, including how to choose the right materials and how to design the enclosure to prevent eagle attacks.

4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season

Eagles are most likely to attack cats during their nesting season, which varies depending on the species and location.

This section will provide advice on how to be vigilant during eagle nesting season, including how to recognize signs of eagle activity and how to adjust your cat’s outdoor routine during this time.

5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife

Protecting wildlife, including eagles, is a community effort.

This section will discuss how cat owners can work with their communities to protect wildlife habitats and reduce the risk of eagle attacks.

We will provide tips on how to get involved in local conservation efforts and how to educate others about the importance of coexisting with wildlife.

Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky

Eagles are powerful and majestic birds of prey known for their keen eyesight and impressive hunting skills.

This section will provide an overview of the different species of eagles, their habitats, and their role as top predators in the ecosystem.

We will discuss how eagles use their sharp talons and beaks to capture and kill their prey, and examine the different types of prey that they typically hunt.

The Diet of Eagles

Eagles are birds of prey and are known for their carnivorous diet.

They primarily hunt small mammals such as rodents, rabbits, and squirrels, but they also eat larger prey like deer and coyotes.

Eagles have even been known to attack and eat other birds, including other raptors like hawks and owls.

What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet

In this section, we will explore the diverse diet of eagles and the different types of prey that they hunt.

We will discuss the hunting techniques that eagles use to capture their prey, including aerial attacks and swooping dives.

We will also look at how eagles adapt their hunting strategies to their environment and the availability of food sources.

Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences

This section will delve into the main question of the article: can eagles eat cats?

We will examine the factors that influence an eagle’s choice of prey, including the size and agility of the prey, and the eagle’s own physical capabilities.

We will also discuss whether domestic cats are a common prey item for eagles, and if so, in what circumstances.

Table of Contents

Toggle

• Eagles and Cats
• Real-Life Examples
  • How to Protect Your Cat
• 5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:
  • 1. Keep Your Cat Indoors
  • 2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside
  • 3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure
  • 4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season
  • 5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife
• Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky
• The Diet of Eagles
• What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet
• Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences
• Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know
• Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe
• The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence
• Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World
• Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife
• FAQs
  • Are cats scared of eagles?
  • Is an eagle stronger than a cat?
  • Do eagles eat animals?
  • Do eagles attack humans?
  • What is eagle afraid of?
  • Can a human win a fight with an eagle?
  • What is more powerful than an eagle?
  • What is the biggest bird of prey?
  • Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?
  • What is the weakness of an eagle?
• Real-Life Examples
  • How to Protect Your Cat
• 5 Ways to Protect Your Cats from Eagles:
  • 1. Keep Your Cat Indoors
  • 2. Supervise Your Cat When Outside
  • 3. Secure Your Outdoor Enclosure
  • 4. Be Vigilant During Eagle Nesting Season
  • 5. Work with Your Community to Protect Wildlife
• Eagles: Top Predators of the Sky
• The Diet of Eagles
• What Do Eagles Eat? A Look at Their Diet
• Can Eagles Eat Cats? Understanding Their Prey Preferences
• Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know
• Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe
• The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence
• Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World
• Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife
• FAQs
  • Are cats scared of eagles?
  • Is an eagle stronger than a cat?
  • Do eagles eat animals?
  • Do eagles attack humans?
  • What is eagle afraid of?
  • Can a human win a fight with an eagle?
  • What is more powerful than an eagle?
  • What is the biggest bird of prey?
  • Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?

Eagle Attacks on Pets: What You Need to Know

Sadly, eagle attacks on pets are not uncommon in areas where eagles and domestic animals coexist.

This section will provide examples of reported eagle attacks on domestic pets, including cats.

We will also discuss the signs that an eagle may be targeting a pet, and provide advice on what to do if you suspect an eagle is threatening your pet.

Living in an Eagle Habitat: Keeping Your Pets Safe

For pet owners who live in areas where eagles are known to hunt, there are several steps you can take to keep your pets safe.

This section will provide practical advice on how to minimize the risk of eagle attacks, including keeping your pets indoors or supervised when outside, and securing outdoor enclosures as eagles eat cats.

The Importance of Wildlife Conservation and Coexistence

Eagles and other wildlife play a critical role in the ecosystem, and it is important to protect them and their habitats.

In this section, we will discuss the importance of conservation efforts to preserve eagle populations and their prey.

We will also explore the concept of coexistence and how humans can learn to live alongside eagles and other wildlife.

Eagle Myths and Legends from Around the World

Eagles have been a part of human mythology and culture for thousands of years.

This section will share interesting myths and legends about eagles from different cultures around the world.

From Native American traditions to ancient Greek mythology, we will explore the many ways that eagles have been revered and celebrated throughout history.

Coexisting with Eagles and Other Wildlife

We will emphasize the importance of respecting and protecting all types of wildlife, and share resources for those interested in learning more about eagle conservation and coexistence.

FAQs

Are cats scared of eagles?

Yes, cats are usually scared of eagles because eagles are natural predators and can pose a threat to them.

Is an eagle stronger than a cat?

Yes, eagles are much stronger than cats.

They have powerful talons and can carry prey that is much heavier than a cat.

Do eagles eat animals?

Yes, eagles are carnivorous and primarily eat other animals.

Their diet consists mainly of fish and small mammals such as rabbits and rodents.

Do eagles attack humans?

Eagles do not usually attack humans, but they can become aggressive if they feel threatened or if their territory is invaded.

What is eagle afraid of?

Eagles are afraid of large predators such as bears and wolves, as well as humans.

They may also be scared of loud noises and sudden movements.

Can a human win a fight with an eagle?

No, it is highly unlikely that a human could win a fight against an eagle.

Eagles are powerful predators with sharp talons and a strong beak.

What is more powerful than an eagle?

There are few predators that are more powerful than an eagle, but some examples include grizzly bears, crocodiles, and killer whales.

What is the biggest bird of prey?

The largest bird of prey is the Andean condor, which can have a wingspan of over 10 feet and weigh up to 33 pounds.

Read Also: Can Ducks Eat Sunflower Seeds? What You Need To Know

Who is stronger, a human or an eagle?

Eagles are much stronger than humans in terms of physical abilities such as strength and speed.

Odocoileus virginianus

Maine is near the northern extent of the white-tailed deer range, and they live in many habitats here, from deep woods to farmland to suburban backyards.

Habitat

Major habitats that provide food and cover for white-tailed deer in Maine are forest lands, wetlands, reverting farmlands, and active farmlands. Forest stands containing little or no canopy closure, wetlands, and reverting and active farmland yield the largest and best forage within reach of deer. However, stands made up of mature conifers with tree height greater than 30 feet, crown closure of greater than 60%, and interspersed or adjacent hardwoods for browsing provide critical winter habitat for deer. Ideal deer wintering habitat is connected by other usable habitat to aid deer in moving between them. Currently, 94% of Maine is considered deer habitat; this excludes developed parts of the state. In practice, even a portion of Maine’s developed land is currently occupied by deer. Wintering habitat is more limited in availability, comprising only 2 to 25% of the land base in various parts of the state.

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Diet

Deer are highly selective herbivores, concentrating on whatever plants or plant parts are currently most nutritious. Finicky eaters, deer opt for variety over quantity, when feeding along in the woods and fields. Deer consume grasses, sedges, ferns, lichens, mushrooms, weeds, aquatics, leaves (green and fallen), fruits, hard mast (acorns, beech nuts, etc.), grains, and twigs and buds of woody plants. Contrary to popular belief, deer consume twigs and buds of dormant trees and shrubs only when more nutritious foods are unavailable. When restricted to woody browse, deer inevitably lose weight. During the course of the year, deer may browse several hundred species of plants. A few are highly preferred; many others are consumed only when the best forages have been depleted. Overabundant deer populations can reduce the abundance of preferred forages, while causing less-desirable plants to become more common. Extremely abundant deer can literally eat themselves out of house and home. At these times, hungry deer are underweight, prone to starvation and disease, produce fewer fawns, grow smaller antlers, and create increased conflicts with homeowners, gardeners, farmers, forest landowners, and motorists.

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Distinctive Characteristics

Maine is home to one of the largest of the 30 recognized subspecies of white-tailed deer. After attaining maturity at age five, our bucks can reach record live weights of nearly 400 lbs. Most adult bucks, however will range from 200 to 300 pounds live weight and will stand 36 to 40″ at the shoulder. Does are considerably smaller; they normally weigh 120 to 175 pounds live weight. Newborn fawns begin life at 4 to 10 pounds but grow to approximately 85 pounds live weight in their first six months of life.

Whitetails have reddish brown fur in the summer switching to a grayish brown in winter. Their trademark white tail, when erected, flashes a danger signal to other deer in the vicinity. Whitetails have keen hearing, made possible by large ears that can rotate toward suspicious sounds. They have wide-set eyes, enabling them to focus on subtle movements while maintaining an excellent sense of depth perception. Whitetails have a very keen sense of smell enabling them to sense danger, even when visibility is poor. They have long graceful legs, enabling them to cover ground quickly by leaping, bounding, turning and outright running at speeds up to 40 miles per hour.

White-tailed deer communicate using a variety of sounds, ranging from explosive “whooshes” when startled, to the barely audible mews and grunts a doe uses to tend to her fawns. Deer are very expressive; they employ a large repertoire of signals using facial expressions and body language. These postures help to maintain the dominance hierarchy within all deer groups. Deer also communicate using odors, which emanate from a number of scent glands.

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Nocturnal/Diurnal

White-tailed deer are crepuscular animals, meaning they are typically most active around dawn and dusk. This does not mean that deer are not at all active during the day. Deer activity may also be influenced by weather, seasonality, and human activity. During hot summer days, for example, deer are less active during the daytime and more active at night when it’s cooler. Conversely, deer may be more active than usual during cooler weather. Deer activity may increase throughout the day during the breeding season while bucks are actively searching for does that are receptive to breeding. Areas with a lot of daytime human activity – which may include in the woods during the hunting season if hunter densities are high- may see little daytime deer activity and increased nocturnality of resident deer.

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Seasonal Changes

Summer home ranges (area that an animal lives within) for deer in Maine are generally 500-600 acres but can vary from 150 to more than 2,000 acres. Movement by deer from summer to winter range can vary from less than a mile to more than 25 miles depending on availability and suitability of the winter range. Deer are not generally territorial (defend their home range against intrusion of other deer). However, pregnant does will defend a small birthing area (less than 20 acres) against intrusion by all other deer, for about a month.

Bucks annually produce antlers, which are made of bone. Triggered by day length and maintained by hormone production, antlers begin growing in April, and are nurtured by a velvety outer network of skin tissue and blood vessels. Velvet is shed when growth is complete in late August and September. The hardened, polished antlers remain until they are shed in late December to early March. In whitetails, antlers allow bucks to advertise and demonstrate their dominance; hence they play a role in reproduction. A buck’s first true set of antlers normally is grown by age one. Buck fawns, however, begin growing the antler base at one month of age. This base develops into two or three-inch velvet-covered “nubbins” by early winter. White-tailed does sometimes produce antlers, but this is rare. Does that do sprout antlers typically are older (5 to 15 years old); their antlers are usually velvet-covered spikes. Most antlered does remain fertile.

Each year, deer produce two coats of hair, each adapted to seasonal climate. In late spring, deer grow a coat of fine, short reddish hair. This pelage allows ample air circulation and helps the deer to stay cool in summer’s heat. During September, deer molt to a highly insulative coat which consists of a dense layer of fine woolly hair under a layer of long hollow brown, gray, and white guard hairs. The guard hairs can be erected to form a very thick insulative coat, which protects against the cold winds of winter. Fawns are born with a reddish-brown coat dappled with white spots. This affords excellent camouflage against detection by predators in the summer. By early autumn, fawns grow the typical winter coat.

Another adaptation for survival is the deer’s habit of storing fat for the winter. In autumn, deer accumulate fat under the skin, in the viscera, between the muscles, and in the hollow bones of the legs. This fat layer can comprise 10 to 25% of a deer’s body weight by late fall. In winter, fat is reabsorbed to provide much-needed energy to supplement inadequate diets of woody browse.

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Reproduction & Family Structure

The peak breeding season for deer in Maine occurs during mid-November, although some breeding may occur in October and as late as January. The onset of the rut in bucks and estrus in does is controlled primarily by decreasing day length. Does in estrus are receptive to breeding for roughly 24 hours, and if not successfully bred, they will come into heat every 28 days, until early winter. Bucks establish and maintain a dominance hierarchy; typically the majority of does in an area are bred by the most dominant bucks. Gestation period for deer is roughly 200 days, after which well-nourished adult does give birth to twins, triplets, and rarely, quadruplets. Fawn and yearling does typically produce one fawn, if they conceive at all. The peak fawning season in Maine is mid-June. In a typical year, each 100 Maine does will give birth to about 130 fawns. However, early fawn losses tend to be high; only 60 to 80 of these young deer typically survive their first five months of life.

What to do if you find a deer fawn all alone

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Survival & Threats

White-tailed deer can live to 18 years, but few deer in the wild live that long. Does typically live longer than bucks presumably because rutting behavior predisposes bucks to higher losses due to hunting, motor vehicle collisions, physical injuries, and depletion of fat reserves going into the winter. Deer populations subjected to high hunting mortality are comprised of predominantly young deer. Conversely, a greater proportion of deer annually survives to older age classes within lightly hunted herds.

Causes of mortality of while tailed deer vary throughout the state. In more developed areas, deer are commonly struck by vehicles, harvested by hunters, and killed by predators. In less developed areas, human-related deaths are relatively few, and adult deer are more commonly taken by predators, particularly coyotes, lynx, and bobcats. Young fawns may also be preyed upon by black bear, fisher, and fox. Deer of any age may succumb to malnourishment of other natural causes, particularly at the end of harsh winters and in the following spring. Presently, Maine’s deer are relatively disease-free, and there are no diseases with significant negative impacts on our deer populations at this time.

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Management & Conservation

Population and Distribution Trends

Maine’s white-tailed deer population has experienced periods of boom and bust, and circumstantial information suggests that the state’s deer population likely did not exist in high abundance prior to the arrival of European colonists in the early 1600’s. With a combination of harsh winters, a higher predator population, and perhaps a lack of young vegetative growth for forage, white tailed deer may have been restricted to the southern coast until the European colonization. With colonization, settlers began clearing the landscape through small-scale logging operations, triggering an increase in the growth of undergrowth, providing white tailed deer with an optimum mix of forage and cover. From then, deer expanded their range and became more common in central and northern Maine. After the extirpation of cougars and wolves from Maine, deer were able to farther expand and increase in numbers with virtually no predation. Still, deer numbers continued to fluctuate with winter severity and large-scale events that caused significant habitat changes such as fires or spruce bud worm outbreaks.

Historical Management

MDIFW began estimating deer populations in the mid-1950’s, enabling the state to better understand the status of the populations and create a more informed management decision process. Between the mid-1950’s and early 1960’s, MDIFW estimated Maine’s deer population at 250,000. Eventually, habitat changes, severe winters, coyote colonization, and increased hunting pressure led to declining deer populations, and Maine’s deer population reached an estimated 141,000 deer in the 1960’s. Following this time and continuing through the late-1980’s, Maine’s deer population expressed slow growth, eventually causing a series of new management strategies and laws that attempted to expedite the growth of Maine’s deer population. Finally, Maine’s deer population grew prolifically through the 1990’s as a result of the regulatory system that limited doe harvest, plus a series of mild winters. During this time, Maine’s deer population grew to an estimated all time high of 331,000, however, much of the growth occurred within the southern tier of the state. Generally speaking, the Department has been successful in achieving deer population objectives in central and southern Maine, where wintering habitat and other factors were more favorable. Achieving meaningful herd increases has been less successful in eastern and northern Maine. Today, deer abundance ranges from one to five deer per square mile in the north, to 15 to 35 deer per square mile in central and southern areas. Some locations, in which access to recreational deer hunters has been limited or denied entirely, support higher deer populations that are above socially acceptable levels. These latter areas are above desired population levels, and they are the focus of most deer/people conflicts in Maine today.

Current Management

Prior to 1975, MDIFW did not set specific goals or quantified objectives for the deer population, harvest, or hunter success rates. Most regulatory actions were made by the Legislature and they were reactions to severe winters, or perceived regional declines in deer abundance. Between 1975 and 1985, MDIFW initiated strategic planning for deer, part of which involved setting publicly-supported goals and objectives. In some areas, this meant attempting to manage deer populations to specific deer densities.

With the more recent implementation of a new Big Game Management Plan, the Department no longer attempts to manage deer to specific deer densities. That approach did not adequately account for many other important aspects of deer population management such as maintaining animal health and social acceptance of deer levels and limiting negative impacts of overabundant deer. Deer management in Maine currently strives to maintain deer levels that are socially acceptable and in balance with available habitat. In areas where deer numbers are not socially acceptable or where deer are causing significant damage to habitat, the Department employs a variety of small-scale management options to try and alleviate the problems.

Each year, MDIFW staff and contractors examine roughly 6,000-8,000 hunter-killed white-tailed deer to collect data on population sex ratios, age structure, estimated mortality and recruitment rates, and body and antler size to provide a clearer picture of the size and health of both the population and habitat. From these examined deer, we also collect samples from roughly 500 deer annually to test for Chronic Wasting Disease, one of the greatest threats facing deer in this country. For more information on data collected in support of Maine deer management, please visit our Research & Management Report (PDF).

Improving deer populations in Maine’s northern and eastern forestlands depends on protecting and increasing amounts of deer wintering habitat. Protection of deer wintering habitat has historically been dependent on landowner cooperation and has not always been possible. Beginning in 2021, MDIFW gained access to funding allowing for the purchase and management of deer wintering habitat, and efforts are underway to identify candidate parcels with willing sellers.

Many Mainers in areas of low deer density have begun artificially feeding whitetails, especially in the winter, which adds an important and relatively new dynamic to the deer wintering landscape in Maine. In Maine’s heavily developed southern and coastal regions, MDIFW staff will continue to develop innovative approaches to safely manage deer harvests in order to maintain deer populations at levels that provide hunting and viewing opportunity while alleviating negative impacts from deer. In all of Maine, we will need to improve access to huntable land through proactive landowner relations programs in order to keep deer populations at tolerable levels.

Current Research in Maine

Maine Deer Winter Mortality Study

Since the early 1970’s, Maine has used a metric called the winter severity index (WSI) to describe how Maine winters impact winter mortality rates (WMR) in deer. WSI is one of the cornerstones of deer management in Maine and impacts the number of antlerless deer permits allocated for hunters each year. Because ecological relationships change over time, this metric needs to be periodically re-evaluated.

For that reason, in 2015, the Maine Department of Inland Fisheries and Wildlife (MDIFW) began a study to reassess the relationship between WSI and WMR. Doing so requires data on winter temperatures and snow conditions, which are used to determine WSI, and data on the survival rates of deer in the winter. Temperature data are provided by temperature loggers placed at 26 WSI monitoring stations throughout the state. Snow condition data are also recorded by biologists and volunteers at these monitoring stations. At the end of winter, in early April, data from temperature loggers and snow measurements are used to calculate a WSI value, which will inform permit allocations for the upcoming deer season.

From 2015 to 2021, MDIFW captured white-tailed deer and fixed GPS collars to them to monitor their movements and survival rates. D eer were captured in wildlife management districts (WMDs) 1, 5, 6, and 17.

The fates of these deer in conjunction with data on the severity of the winters they encounter will help to re-evaluate the relationship between WSI and WMR and help shape deer management in Maine in the future.

The major goals of this study are to:

1. Reevaluate the correlation between WSI and WMR for white-tailed deer
2. Assess seasonal survival rates for the adult deer population
3. Assess cause-specific mortality of our adult deer population
4. Reassess the current winter severity index and try to identify a new and more simplistic metric

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Living with Wildlife

How to Prevent or Resolve Conflicts with Deer

White-tailed deer are one of the most recognized mammals in Maine, with frequent sightings throughout the state. However, deer are known for entering and consuming vegetation around the home or in gardens. Learn more about how to prevent and resolve conflicts with deer

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Here in Ohio, we still haven’t had a frost so I’m still bringing in the harvest. This week, I’m ready to collect juniper berries.

Our juniper shrub has played an important part in our farm since the very beginning. It was much smaller when we moved in, but nonetheless, was the best shelter on the property for our very first bee hives. The mockingbird, for which we named our farm, nested in the juniper just above the hives that first year and we took it as a good sign.

Where to Find Juniper Berries

Junipers grow in most parts of North America. They aren’t too picky about the soils in which they grow, with the exception of their dislike for an extremely wet one. Because they can tolerate extremely dry conditions, you may have met a juniper even if you live in the city. They are often planted near sidewalks and streets. They don’t need much in the way of maintenance, so no need for a grounds crew to keep them trimmed. Even the berries, which are small and abundant, lure the birds to come and fetch them instead of gracelessly cluttering the yard.

Using Juniper Berries

Juniper berries have a long tradition of use in food, beverages, and medicine. I wrote some weeks ago about the fact that they are the main flavor in gin. In Norway, where my family originates, it is common to home brew with juniper berry tea. You’ll find recipes that include juniper berries with meat, especially fish. Just a few are used, and they are usually crushed to release their flavor. It is said that they make a domestic meat taste like their wild counterparts.

In medicine, juniper berries are recognized for both their high content of volatile oils and their beneficial resins. It its common to see them applied to issues in the respiratory tract and urinary tract. Therefore they can be useful for such issues as cold, congestion, cough, urinary tract infections, arthritis, and gout. They are fairly intense in their action, so only small amounts are used.

NOTE: Juniper berries aren’t a tonic by any means, so the use of them over long periods of time isn’t advisable. The use of the berries for anyone with only one kidney, or someone with kidney disease, is not advised.

Harvesting Juniper Berries

Our juniper bush towers over us these days. It has grown from a modest six feet to easily 11 feet over the past 15 years. I won’t bother picking any of the berries above my head. In that way, I can leave some of the berries for the birds. Juniper leaves are sharp, so it’s best to use gloves when picking juniper berries.

The time-honored way to pick is much like mulberry picking. Place a sheet underneath the shrub, grasp a branch with berries, and gently shake. The berries will fall off quite easily. You are looking for only the blue, ripe berries. Anything green will rot before it dries.

Drying Juniper Berries

After gathering the berries, it is time to dry them. It has turned rather chilly and humid here, so I’ll most likely use the dehydrator. It takes quite a while to fully dry a juniper berry because it is highly resinous. You can expect to allow them to air dry for up to three weeks or at least two days in the dehydrator.

Using Dried Juniper Berries

This winter, I’m looking forward to experimenting with some juniper rubs for outdoor barbecue. If I decide to use the berries for medicine, they can be tinctured, powdered, or made into tea.

Want juniper berries, but don’t have time for a DIY?

You can find organic dried juniper berries here for a reasonable price.

Have you noticed a juniper shrub in your area, covered in blue berries? Have I inspired you to take a closer look?

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What is a 8.6 Creedmoor?

First off, it is now officially called the 8.6 BLK or 8.6 Blackout, dubbed such by the very creator Kevin Brittingham. Kevin, owner of Q and inventor of the .300 Blackout cartridge first came up the with idea of a .338 caliber cartridge like the .338 Federal, but better because it has a shorter 6.5 Creedmoor based case, so it could accommodate larger and longer bullets than the .338 Federal in normal magazines, which would mean it could provide for a cartridge that could be effective at both subsonic and supersonic muzzle velocities. Not only does this owe for interesting low-noise subsonic rifles, but also for short barrel, high-punch rifles and even a cartridge being able to feed in a semi-auto configuration.

Back in 2018 when Kevin initially developed the cartridge and worked with the idea, trying to get Hornady to start manufacturing the cartridge, he intended to call it the 8.6 Creedmoor, but in June 2021 when Q made the official announcement of the cartridge on their Instagram account, they dubbed it the more appropriate 8.6 BLK or 8.6 Blackout, owing to their own unique .300 Blackout, but necked up to accommodate the 8.6 caliber bullet, and also uniquely identifying it as separate from the Creedmoor sports developed cartridges like the 6.5mm Creedmoor and the 6mm Creedmoor.

The reason why Q and Hornady are only now officially bringing it to market in 2021, is mainly because of the ammo crisis that hit since early 2019, which meant that they could not even keep up with demand of current cartridge ammo, let alone start manufacturing or marketing a new cartridge.

Brass

Why a New Cartridge

Yes, it feels like every week someone is just necking some other cartridge up or down and “bringing out a whole new cartridge”, but this time, it is really a game-changer. The 8.6 BLK is not just an improvement on previous designs or a wildcat, it changes what was thought best for hunting cartridges and tactical military cartridges all together. It shows that large long bullets can work out of small cases, and even better, high energy effective hunt kills can be made out of short barrels, even at what would be considered long range distances for hunting.

Create Your Own

There aren’t really any large scale manufacturers making a 8.6 BLK Factory Rifle yet, however, if you jump on the waiting list now, you may be able to snag one of the early ones when they become available soon from Q and Faxon firearms, or you can even just buy a barrel conversion from them if you already have a Fix by Q.

The other manufacturers should jump on the band wagon offering 8.6 BLK chambered barrel pretty soon after Hornady starts making the brass available, and you can even have your own build on a .308 bolt face, standard-length action, by chambering a .338 / 8.6mm barrel in it once reamers become available (just remember the tight twist rate needed to make the most of this cartridge).

8.6 BLK Twist Rate

Very fast twist rates like 1:4 and even 1:3 are used for the 8.6 BLK, as this provides greater energy at supersonic velocities, and greater accuracy at subsonic velocities, thus enabling the use and stabilization of such long and large bullets out of such short barrels. The fast twist rate, also ensures good bullet expansion even at slower velocities.

8.6 BLK Ballistics

When loaded with a 210gr Barnes TTSX bullet at a conservative 2000fps from the short 16″ barrel, you still have over a 1000 ft/lb energy on target at 375 yards, although this round is not really made for such long distances. The designers also claim that the normal energy on target figure is not applicable as the incredible rotational energy of the projectile spun at such a high speed because of the 1:3″ twist rate, multiplies the energy on target, see this video to show that.

EDIT: Ballistic figures, chart and graph was updated in June 2022 to get closer to actual achieved muzzle velocity figures now that the round has been tested more, and showing that the initial muzzle velocity figures claimed by Q were a little overstated.

8.6 BLK for Hunting

Although very practical as a new do-all military cartridge, hunting is where the 8.6 BLK really shines. It redefines the general purpose hunting and utility rifle genre. Even during testing and R&D hunts, Kevin Brittingham and the guys from Q have been making waves online with their small Fix 8.6 BLK taking down everything from smaller CXP1 sized animals like a Black Backed Jackal, CXP2 sized game like deer, CXP3 sized animals like a large Kudu bull, all the way through to the very large and thick-skinned CXP4 sized African Cape Buffalo. Proving the versatility of the cartridge and rifle platform for a single, compact, do-it-all hunting rifle.

8.6 BLK Barrel Length

8.6 BLK vs .338 Federal

Most people that first read or heard about the 8.6 BLK, quickly asked why, given the similarity or superiority (as they thought) of the already available .338 Federal cartridge. Well, the 8.6 BLK is the quieter and more efficient version of a .338 Federal, basically with a trimmed back case and improved shoulder so you can get longer heavier subsonic bullets than you can with the .338 Federal. Overall it’s a more efficient and versatile design than the .338 Federal.

Whilst the case length of the .338 Federal is 2.015”, the 8.6 BLK case is 1.685” in length, allowing the ability to run heavy subsonic loads, 280 to 360 grains or more, whilst the longer 338 Federal case will put the ogive of those long projectiles back inside the case, which will perform badly.

Although having a smaller case capacity, the 8.6 BLK offers more consistent ignition of the powder thanks to more case fill, which gives you more consistent performance, especially with those heavy subsonic loads. Another big upside due to the shorter case and cartridge length, the 8.6 BLK will feed out of .308 Winchester length magazines, allowing greater compatibility. Even the fact that the 8.6 BLK uses the same bolt face as the .308 Win, means you can change your barrel on your Fix or other current rifle and have your own 8.6 BLK.

Lastly, when looking a long bullets like the Berger 300gr Hybrid with a nose length of 0.955 inches, but the case to OAL length of the .338 Federal is only 0.785 inches, meaning that those bullets or similar cannot be reliably fed from a magazine, whereas it can in the 8.6 BLK.

Lightning Safety Tips for Fishermen

I love the phenomena of thunderstorms. Like many of you, I’m fascinated by the crackle of lightning bolts and house shaking thunderclaps. Also, like too many people, I’ve unwisely continued fishing while a storm approached when I should have been long gone to safety. Lucky for me, I miraculously survived that ordeal. Honestly, even a record largemouth bass is not worth getting fried over.

Facts about Lightning & Fishing

• Lightning kills 80 to 100 people yearly in the U.S.A little more than half of victims were engaged in outdoor recreation like fishing or boating. Ten times as many are struck but survived with severe, life-long injuries or disabilities. With the height of lightning season upon us, it’s time for fishermen to consider lightning safety.

• You Must Stop Fishing during Lightning.Lightning can strike as many as ten miles away from its source cloud. This is why it is recommended to stop fishing and move indoors as soon any thunder is heard. The debris clouds trailing behind a thunderstorm can produce their own lightning, fishermen should wait 30 minutes after the storm has passed to begin fishing to be completely safe. While inside during a storm stay away from doors and windows, plumbing, wiring, appliances and telephones.

• When to Stop Fishing during Lightning?A somewhat less conservative response to seeing lightning involves the ’30/30 rule.’ Upon spotting lightning, if you can count to 30 before hearing thunder, the odds are you’re out of range of the lightning. A count of five before hearing thunder equals roughly one mile of distance from a lightning strike, a count of ten equals two miles, etc. However, thunderstorms can move as fast as 50mph so the next bolt of lightning could be right on top of you.

William Becker, of the University of Florida, notes that lightning is very unpredictable and bolts contain as much as 100 million volts – a minimum of 500,000 times the electricity needed to power a sparkplug! Lightning follows Ben Franklin’s ‘path of least resistance’ rule, and guess what? The path can easily be through a fisherman’s body, which happens to conduct electricity quite well. So, if it’s impossible to seek indoor shelter and you are trapped outside during a thunderstorm, reducing your exposure is critical. Lightning Safety Tips for FishermenWhat to do When You See Lightning?

First thing to do

1) Lay down your fishing rods, they could act like an antennae and draw a lightning strike right to you. If on land,

• seek like-sized shrubs or a group of small trees, get low and avoid touching the plants. On open terrain like fishing beaches or desert potholes with no form of cover, find a low spot and crouch on your heels.

• Never move towards solitary trees and avoid isolated structures like gazebos or picnic table covers (especially if they are constructed of metal), lightning can travel as much a 60 feet sideways after striking an object. An automobile – but not convertibles or cars with a fiberglass roof – offer some shelter but put your hands in your lap and avoid contact with the steering wheel, radio, ignition, etc.

2) If you are on a Boat

Boaters are at great risk during lightnings. They are often the highest object on the water’s surface. Even distant thunder or lightning flashes should trigger an immediate move toward shelter on land.

• Lower all fishing rods and radio antennasThen crouch down without contacting any metal railings, wiring, or the motor; don’t get in the water or dangle your legs or hands in the water.

• Disconnect the VHF radio and GPSThis way they may survive a lightning strike. Lightning protection systems are available for some fishing boats but getting off the water is safer.

Lightning strikes the United States around 25 million times per year.

Most Florida fishermen won’t be ‘shocked’ to hear their state annually has more strikes than any other. However, NOAA notes that lightning occurs in all fifty states. Lightning can occur at any time, but late afternoon hours are the most dangerous periods for lightning strikes, and folks spending time outside in open areas like fields or beaches are the most common victims. So make yourself aware of the weather forecast before heading out to fish and if the predictions include thunderstorms plan on returning home before the storms are due to bubble up.Fishing for bass, walleye, trout, catfish, bream, or whichever species you favor, can be a fun way to enjoy the great outdoors if you keep in mind lightning safety whenever you grab your fishing rods for a day on the water.

Suppose you wandered into the forest and found a pile of poop lying around. It looks round, oval-shaped, and has a concave end. Is it elk poop? Or is it from a Moose?

Well, between Elk Vs. Moose, Elk poop is a little smaller, whereas the moose poop is about 1 inch long and 5/8 inch in diameter. However, large elk may leave the same length and diameter as a moose poop. The only way to determine moose poop and elk poop are by the color, shape and attachment of the poop.

Moose poops are taper on one side and have a slight dish shape on one side.

Elk poop is similar to deer poop, with the same almond shape and green or brown hue. It is also a bit darker.

Still confused? Go through our comparison chart to know more.

Elk poop Vs. Moose poop: Comparison chart

Elk poop: How does it look?

Elk poop looks somewhat similar to a regular deer poop with oval-shaped piles. Depending on the season and area, the poop may look different.

In the winter, elk poop looks like pellets and oval-shaped piles.

Whereas, In spring, the poop may look softer due to the presence of vegetation.

The diameter of the poop may vary from 0.4-0.7 inches. On the other hand, female elks have a smaller poop size. It is kinda hard, has a medium to dark brown color, and has a low amount of cellulose.

Fresh elk poop tends to be more moist and will harden with time. They will also turn black with time.

Related: What Does Squirrel Poop Look Like?

Moose poop: How does it look?

Similar to Elk poop, moose poop depends on the season. It ranges from 1-1.5 inches in length and 0.5-0.8 inches in diameter.

In the spring, moose poop resembles dumbbell-shaped or kinda like mushrooms. However, in the winter, they take oval ball shape and contain high amounts of cellulose.

You will find moose poop in piles, which is a little moist. When you drag your boot on fresh moose poop, the moisture content makes it leave a drag mark.

Having a light brown color, moose poop looks somewhat similar to cow dung. With time, the poop takes a light brown color and hardens up.

Elk poop Vs. Moose poop: Head to head

Elk poop and Moose poop look a lot different than what you think. Except for the similar shape, almost nothing matches with each other. Here is why:

Regular shape and size

Both elk poop and moose poop have an oval shape. However, Elk poop is a little smaller in shape. Moose poop stands at a length of 1-1.5 inches, and elk poop is about 0.8 to 0.9 inches. The diameter of both the poops is similar, whereas moose poop is a few centimeters smaller.

In winters

During the cold winter, the amount of vegetation is low. In this time, Moose poop is oval nugget shaped and is often found in piles. On the other hand, elk poop forms pellets and is also oval-shaped.

In Spring

At this time of the year, both moose have a lot of food growing around. Moose poop takes a mushroom-like shape or kinda like dumbbells. In comparison, elk ones turn softer and lighter.

Color and hue

The color of fresh moose poop is light brown. Elk poop is medium to dark brown. Old moose poop may turn dark. However, elk poop will always turn black.

Moisture and cellulose content

The moisture content of moose poop is more than elk poop. If you press on it, the poop will turn flat at the slightest touch. It also contains more cellulose and plant fiber.

How do you tell the difference between moose and elk poop?

To tell the difference between moose and elk poop, you need to see the color, shape, moisture level, and hardness. Tips For Elk Hunting Beginners: Elk poop looks darker, and the moose one is a light brown from the starter period. Then again, moose poop is softer and is moister.

Drag your boot on the fresh poop, and if it leaves a drag mark, then the poop is of moose. In the case of old, dried-up poop, the elk poop is black, and the moose poop is light brown.

FAQs

How many times do moose poop a day?

Mooses typically poop from three to four times per day. However, this amount depends on the age and weight of the moose. A newborn moose will poop much more frequently than a grownup one.

Can moose poop look like bear poop?

Moose poop can look like bear poop in the spring. Bears and mooses have totally different food habits. This is why their poop isn’t exactly the same. However, they do share a resemblance in spring, when the poop of moose turns dumbbell-shaped. In Winters, moose poop will turn into dry oval nuggets and is found in piles. So, don’t just call the forest department, thinking it’s a bear. The poop can also be of moose.

How do I know if my poop is moose?

To know if your found moose poop is with the color, shape, and weight. Moose moose has a lighter brown color, and the shape is oval. Its length is about 1-1.5 inches, and its diameter is 0.5-0.8 inches. Then again, don’t forget to check the moisture content. The poop is easy to squish if it is fresh. Old poop will turn dark brown with time and will harden up.

Why is moose poop in pellets?

Moose poop in pellets due to the food they eat. Mooses can’t reach the ground grass due to their big body. So, they feed on barks, leaves, twigs, and so on. Newborn mooses don’t have this problem, so they usually don’t poop into pellets. Mooses are also ruminants, which makes their poop uniform and pellet-like. In winter, their pool will appear dry oval nuggets and is found in piles.

What does a pile of moose poop look like?

A pile will look different depending on the season. If the season is winter, the pool will take an oval shape and will be stacked in piles. Then again, during spring, the poop will take a mushroom shape or look like dumbbells. Female moose have smaller poop sizes when compared to male ones. The pool length and diameter is about 1-1.5 inch and 0.5-0.8 inches, respectively.

End note

Hope you got the idea of how elk poop and moose poop looks. Moses are a bigger relative of deer, so they pool in bigger chunks. On the other hand, Elks aren’t as big, so they poop in smaller pellets, ranging from 0.8 to 0.9 inches.

Elk poop is less moist and has a dark brown hue. If you leave Elk poop side by side, the moose poop will look bigger and has a sticky outer layer. You can squash moose poop with the slightest press of the boot.

Then again, when moose poop turns older, it becomes hard and dark brown. However, elk poop will turn black.

This is all for today. Bye, and have a good day.

Anyone interested increasing their self reliance, going off-grid, or simply providing for their family when times get tough should be heavily focused on creating a productive and sustainable food source. The foundational building block for this is a survival garden.

Providing enough food to sustain your family can seem like a daunting proposition that would require several acres of land. But with a little planning and consideration, you can create a productive garden that will serve you and your family well all year long.

What is a Survival Garden?

The simplest explanation would be that it is a garden capable of growing the food you and your family need to survive (or at least a large portion of it) until the next growing season.

This may seem straightforward, but when you break it down and see how many calories, vitamins, and minerals you need to replace daily to stay healthy, you realize there has to be some serious planning and consideration put into it.

Survival gardening has a critical urgency about it, and doesn’t have to be pretty.

If you’ve seen the movie “The Martian”, you can use the example of Mark Watney, who formulates a plan to survive the harsh climate of Mars by potato farming in his own feces. Is it going to make the cover of Better Homes and Gardens? No. Did it keep him alive? Yes.

When you consider how important food security is to your family, there is no reason not to do everything in your power to make the most effective survival garden possible.

In addition to keeping you alive, there are a few other reasons why having your own garden is beneficial:

• Health Benefits: Starting a garden for the resulting health benefits alone is worth it. Do you know what most people do when they have access to fresh, free produce? They eat tons more of it! Even if you are relatively careful with what you eat, increasing your produce consumption will always benefit you.
• The Money: Eating your own produce can save you some significant coin. And to top it off, you could also take it to the very same markets where you used to spend your money and make some money. You probably will not get rich, but you’ll certainly be able to offset some costs.
• Help Feed People in Need: In times where you’re not depending on every calorie from your survival garden to feed your family, another option is to donate the surplus to a local food bank or family in need. The extra potatoes and carrots you are tired of seeing in the cellar could be the reason someone’s kid has a little more to eat.

Survival Garden Layout Examples

If you are trying to provide a chunk of your family’s calories from the homestead, then you need to be really smart about your survival garden layout.

So what do survival gardens look like? Well, that question has a lot of answers. There are many different types of gardens, each with their own corresponding perks and benefits.

It is perfectly acceptable to use a pre-established clearly defined archetype, or you could take your inspiration from several styles and create something unique to your situation and property.

Here are some terrific and time-tested survival garden layouts to help get your wheels spinning:

1. Square Foot Gardening

Square foot gardening was originally devised as a way to teach growing capabilities and capacities to people in underserved areas. They can be made in nearly any size or configuration.

There are some solid reasons you might choose to follow a square foot gardening format. The planting guidelines prevent crowding while helping to maximize the space available and eliminate the wasted space of row planting. Similar plants are grown in non-linear configurations as they would in the wild so that they are not crowded out and can reach optimal size.

This same aim of efficient use of space also applies to how the garden is physically built. It is a raised bed that is visually divided by materials like wooden dowels, string, or twine tacked into a square-foot grid. This allows the cultivation of personal amounts of produce, in small areas, with little need to travel.

As they are raised beds, less bending is needed, so they are less work to maintain.

2. Victory Gardens

The victory garden is seeing a comeback in these uncertain and turbulent times. While it started as a way to reduce reliance on staples in order to free up rations during the second world war, it is once again enjoying a resurgence in popularity.

Victory gardens are designed to provide most of what a family of two to four people will need for much, if not all, of the year. With a high reliance on beans, drying and preservation will be crucial for maximizing the usefulness of the garden.

3. Keyhole Gardens

Keyhole gardens are perfect for hot and particularly dry climates. They consist of a wide round garden that is several feet deep and has a small radial arc of material removed.

With this material removed, the gardener can stand in the center of the garden, with the produce at approximately waist height. All areas of the garden can be reached easily by the gardener with very little strain on the back.

Since they are so deep, a key benefit of constructing keyhole gardens is their resistance to drought. Cardboard layered into the soil also helps to prevent water loss through evaporation. The center is preferred to be a compost bin with a base of rock at least the size of gravel, to facilitate drainage. As the material in the bin composts and is watered into the surrounding soil, it helps feed the crops in the garden.

Keyhole gardens do not make especially efficient use of space, since they are often quite a bit deeper than simple raised beds, but they do offer an extremely rich substrate to grow in.

Since they are fed by the compost, as well as being primarily watered from there, keyhole gardens are perfect for root vegetables like carrots, radishes, and beets, and leafy vegetables like spinach, lettuce, chard, and herbs.

4. The Permaculture Food Forest

One of the hallmarks of a permaculture style “food forest” is that it’s typically not in 1 specific “garden.” Rather, the plants and trees making up a food forest are strategically scattered throughout an area, to take advantage of microclimates, optimal growing conditions, and companion plantings as much as possible.

If you have a larger area and are looking to build an extremely diverse and naturally productive garden, creating a food forest modeled on permaculture principles might be the perfect option.

The benefits of permaculture systems are myriad. They not only focus on boosting biodiversity across the board, they also promote function stacking.

For example, a portion of the food forest may utilize clover as part of the ground cover. Clover could “stack functions” by not only preventing weeds, but also acting as a nitrogen-fixer, increasing the available nitrogen for neighboring plants. A 3rd function of a clover ground cover could be that it’s a source of pollen for important pollinators like bees and butterflies. This mentality will extend to many aspects of gardening and is the foundation for the entire permaculture model.

5. The Backyard Homestead Layout

The concept of a “homestead” is one that feels bigger than just a vegetable garden. Instead, a homestead typically incorporates fruit trees, perennial plants like berries, animals like chickens and goats, honey bees, or any number of other things. Still, at its core, the goal of a homestead is in line with survival gardening-support and sustain the lives of the people living there.

The Backyard Homestead Book is a popular and info-packed resource for planning maximum food production, even on postage-stamp-sized lots in the city and suburbs. It has a comprehensive walk-through of all the pertinent info you need to begin your journey towards self-sufficiency and self-reliance.

It covers the basics like garden design and crops to plant, but then it takes things a step further, by covering material on food preservation, highlighting methods like pickling, canning, even drying, and dehydration. This gem will help you through the entire food production process, from seed to snack.

6. Self Sufficient Backyard Layout

This is one of those resources that you can keep on your bookshelf, and every time you read it you seem to find something new and useful in it.

It is written by a couple that would be considered modern-day pioneers, living a lifestyle that includes growing their own food all year, collecting water, producing natural remedies from foraged plants, and using renewable energy.

It is a great book for anyone looking to begin the transition to a more self-sufficient lifestyle, or anyone wanting to learn how to effectively use just a quarter acre to produce food and energy for their own family.

What should I grow in my survival garden?

That is a very open-ended question, but we can start to narrow it down by your growing zone and garden location. It is important to have a large variety of nutrient-dense vegetables, and ideally ones that can also be stored in some long term fashion, whether it is by canning, drying and dehydrating, pickling, or cellar storage.

Proteins & Fats

You will need plenty of protein and fats in your diet. Protein is needed to build and maintain muscle mass and fats are needed as a source of energy.

• Nut trees: Hazelnuts, hickory nuts, walnuts, pecans, chestnuts, and so many others. The options for nut trees that will grow in the US is impressive. Nuts can provide a source for healthy unsaturated fats, as well as omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, and are full of vitamins and minerals.
• Chickens: While not a vegetable, you certainly can raise chickens in your garden area. You will need to take some infrastructure precautions to ensure they do not eat your plants, but letting them free range in the area will keep your gardens largely bug free, and cut down or eliminate the need for separate feeding.
• Beans: An important source of vegetarian protein, beans and other legumes also provide ample fiber and a robust dose of antioxidants. Even if you are growing chickens or other livestock for meat, beans will be a vital source of supplemental off-season protein.

Carbs

Carbohydrates are forms of sugars that occur in starchy or fibrous foods. They are an energy source and are broken down and metabolized into either long-term or short-term energy.

• Potatoes: Potatoes are a fantastic and long-storing carbohydrate. It is an easily grown root vegetable that stores well and can be used in countless ways. A smart planting of potato slips can contribute hundreds of pounds of potatoes for your stores.

• Corn: A relatively fast-growing cereal grain, corn is very versatile and can be used and stored in many ways. With minimal processing, it can also be converted to feed, flour, alcohol and fuel.

• Beans: You thought we ran through all the benefits of beans? Nope! Beans will also fill a slot for complex cards, giving you a source for the long term, all-day energy you are going to need to keep your homestead running.

• Squash: A plant that is incredibly nutritious and versatile, squash is another vegetable that can store easily, in its native state, for long periods. The meat is generally eaten roasted or steamed.

• Peas: Peas are a good source of starches, like potatoes, they are great thickeners. They are high in fiber, protein, and vitamins A, B6, C, and K.

Vitamins and Micronutrients

Vitamins, minerals, and other nutrients help your body to function by providing essential components to support bodily processes.

• Chard: A leafy green that is great in salads, and adds a splash of color. A common ingredient in healthy diets, both the leaves and the stalks can be eaten.

• Spinach: A super healthy leafy green. Loaded with antioxidants and nutrients, and a great source of iron.

• Garlic: Closely related to onions, garlic is in the same family as leeks, shallots, and chives. Garlic is a long-standing favorite and is used to season cuisines the world over.

• Broccoli: The tiny trees that are the bane of every child’s dinner plate. One of the most versatile plants, can be eaten raw or cooked, and the leaves, stalk, and flowering head can all be eaten. Growing broccoli provides a great return on investment.

• Cauliflower: Another relative of the mustard plant, cauliflower often resembles cheese curd but has a texture that couldn’t be more different.

• Kale: A close relative of cabbage, kale is packed with nutrients and vitamins. Care should be exercised not to eat kale to an excess, however, as it contains a compound that can interfere with thyroid hormone synthesis.

• Cabbage: Is a leafy green that gives a tremendous amount of leaves on each densely packed head. They can grow very large and can be stored for long periods and used as needed, like potatoes and other staples. A great source of vitamins K and C, along with significant dietary fiber.

Medicinals

You may want to consider adding a section in your garden to contain your medicinal plants. These are plants that can be used to treat common ailments like headaches, inflammation, and pain. Often made into teas, salves, or pastes. Common medicinal plants you may want to consider include:

• Calendula: known to be an antifungal, antiseptic, healer of wounds.
• Cilantro: Helps digestion, possibly linked to heavy metal removal from the body.
• Lemon Balm: Relaxing effects with possible antiviral properties.
• Peppermint: Helps with digestion if brewed in tea, and soothes aches when applied topically.
• Rosemary: Increases oxygen to the brain, a great alternative to caffeine.
• Mullein: Can help heal respiratory infections.

How much space do I need to grow it all in?

That is probably the best part about a survival garden-there is no one single way to do it that will be best. Do what is right for you and your circumstances. This means it is extremely easy to adapt this information to your needs. From tiny urban gardens to acres of country land, there is something for everyone.

Urban gardens are growing in popularity and are becoming more widely permitted. There is a push in many urban centers for green rooftops to reduce HVAC load and provide additional food for building residents.

Agriscaping is transforming common landscapes into productive agricultural spaces. This can look like neighborhood food forests or fruit and nut trees alongside the street in place of ornamentals. Many neighborhoods have begun creating spaces that function as both food forests and community gardening space.

All that said however, one of the early contributors to SCP Survival shared the following recommendation from her grandma who was a serious gardener at the turn of the century:

Grandma Carrie’s Rule of Thumb (how big does my garden need to be?)

Grandma Carrie grew and preserved everything that her family ate in the late 1880’s and early 1900’s short of wheat, sugar, salt and spices. Her garden was well over a quarter acre. And she had a rule of thumb – One quart per person, per day.

Since she was feeding ten people she would need to can 3,650 quarts of fruits and vegetables. Add to that the crops that went into the root cellar, some crops were dried and stored in burlap bags, milk and eggs were gathered year ‘round, animals were butchered as needed and the meat was stored in crocks.

To supply each member of the family with their “quart a day” you should plan approximately 1,000 to 2,500 square feet of garden space for each person. This amount depends on soil fertility, the crops you choose to grow, methods of cultivation, and the length of your growing season. Other food sources like fruit trees and livestock also play a huge part in the amount of vegetables you need.

A 2,000 square foot garden would be a 40 foot by 50 foot section of your property. This can be a pretty significant undertaking especially if you have no experience gardening. Crops such as squash and cucumbers require significantly more space than spinach, Swiss chard, carrots, onions and beets. Peas, tomatoes and some beans do best with a fence, cage or pole to grow UP on which decreases the square feet necessary.

Here are some rough estimates on space to yield for feeding four people for one year:

*Estimate based on ½ whole and ½ sauce

This chart would be 2,018 square feet of growing space without any paths in between them. I have given the yield in quarts but to have a better idea if this would suit your family, you will probably want to consider pints (or twice as many jars half the size). For example, one pint of beets would probably be adequate for a meal for four people, a 100 foot row will yield around 48 pints which would provide enough beets for one meal a week for a year.

This chart provides 657 quarts plus potatoes, about half of Grandma Carrie’s rule of thumb.

What is the best location for my survival garden?

You will want to make sure you evaluate all possibilities before deciding where to put your garden. Make sure you consider the exposure to the sun, water, soil, and how easy it will be for you to access it as often as you will need to.

Most people think about the first few, but not everyone considers access. The last thing you want to do is put a big garden plot in what you think is a perfect place, only to have to lug all your gardening equipment or any tools you need, to a garden that is now quite inconvenient to get to.

When considering your garden’s placement, you will naturally have to consider the sun and water placement. If you live in the northern hemisphere, you will want to make sure your garden is south of your house, or far enough north of your house that it will not lie in its shadow. Use this same logic when plating. When possible plant so that the taller crops, like corn, on the north end of the garden bed, so that they do not cast a shadow over the other plants.

One of the principles of permaculture is the zones of use. The mindset being that you do not want to expend excess energy to get to things you use all the time, and things that are largely self-managing should be the farthest away. It also simplifies care and harvesting. The zones of use are:

1. Zone 1 is the most visited area or areas. This zone will have things that either need daily attention or that you use daily. Examples of things to grow in zone 1 are seedlings, salad components, cooking herbs, or anything that needs daily water, like a lemon tree. Believe it or not, animals are ideally sited in Zone 1.
2. Zone 2 are things that still need attention, but not specifically daily. If your particular setup allows for it, zone 2 is irrigated. Zone 2 is also mulched. Examples of zone 2 plants would be smaller fruiting trees and trellised fruit vines, bramble berries like blackberries, raspberries, and blueberries. This is also the zone that contains windbreaks, ponds, and barrier hedges. Plants that are only harvested once or twice per season belong here like potatoes and corn.
3. Zone 3 is semi-managed. An example of zone 3 plants would be large and mature fruit and nut trees. It is not mulched, nor visited on any regular basis.
4. Zone 4 is a minimally managed area for foraging wild foods and growing timber.
5. Zone 5 is completely and entirely unmanaged. All pure native plants and wildlife.

Keep in mind what you will eventually be planting, and be sure to plant companions together when possible. The main idea of companion planting is that you plant different crops together, they help sustain each other and ensure you have a strong and fruitful harvest.

Companions can be used for pest deterrents, balancing out nutrients, and attracting pollinators. For instance:

• Tomatoes work very well with beans, chives, and oregano, but not with corn, dill, and potatoes.
• If you want a successful cucumber and squash harvest, plant corn, beans, or radishes with them.
• If you have pine trees on your property, be careful not to place your garden where the shed needles fall, since they make the soil very acidic.

For more on companion planting, check out this comprehensive guide.

Knowing Your Soil is Crucial

The quality of your soil is the imperative. Much more needs to be done to prepare a garden space than simply digging up the lawn. “Friability”, or easy to crumble is normally the first obstacle to overcome. Grasses can grow in clay – or cracks in asphalt for that matter but vegetables need lose, crumbly, loamy soil. Amendments need to be made in the way of compost, perhaps sand and possibly nutrients to alter the pH level.

How do you intend to water your garden? Tomatoes for example, need to be soaked 6-8 inches deep every 5-10 days depending on the heat and amount of rain you have. If the grid is down, is your water down? If you are collecting water in a rain barrel, do you intend to drip irrigate or hand water? Is one barrel enough? Do you have all the materials on hand now?

Want Some Extra Credit? Here Are Some Gardening “Force Multipliers”

The following are tools or techniques used to be more effective at reaching your objective of producing enough food to survive. They help you get the most out of your garden by helping to create ideal conditions, one way or another, for your crops.

Greenhouse

A greenhouse is one of the common things that people think of when picturing a large garden set up. A greenhouse is a large open building that is largely transparent or translucent, allowing in sunlight, but also sealed against the outside elements.

Utilizing a large amount of solar gain, greenhouses are able to trap solar energy in the form of heat, and can often be used to extend the growing season.

Greenhouses can be used to grow later into the year, in order to gain an extra harvest or two, and also to begin earlier each year, by providing a warm place to germinate seeds and give plants a head start before transplanting to the soil once the threat of frost has passed.

Cold Frames

Cold frames use the same principles of trapping solar energy as greenhouses but on a much smaller scale. Cold frames are made from a wooden box similar to a raised bed, frequently angled toward the south. They will usually have a windowed lid, often made from an upcycled home window that is attached to the top with a hinge so that it can tilt open for easy access to the contents.

Cold frames are frequently used in the same manner as full-size greenhouses, to either continue growing past the fall frost dates or to gain an early start by germinating seeds and plant starts before they would normally be able to be put in the ground.

Row Covers

Row covers are also known as low tunnels. A crucial force multiplier for those who utilize planting rows for their crops, row covers can protect from freezing temperatures, wind, and pests.

They are essentially tiny hoop houses that run the length of the planting rows. They are very low to the ground and often only allow around 1-2 feet of clearance for the plants they cover, and as such are only suitable for very young plants or those that grow close to the ground like root vegetables and greens. They help keep the soil in the row warm for early season starts, and for late-season harvests.

Chickens or livestock

Introducing chickens or other small livestock to your survival garden can have several benefits. Not only will they create manure that will be essential to your composting and fertilizing capabilities, but they also can help reduce pests and insects.

People do not give chickens enough credit, they are amazing little omnivores. They eat just about any organic matter you allow them to, but they will also meet you halfway on the cleanup, tilling most of their waste directly into the soil. You do need to keep an eye on them, and make sure that they aren’t sick. If so, there are a handful of DIY chicken doctoring things you can do own your own.

Guinea fowl are another valuable addition, frequently eating so many nuisance insects like ticks, that they will not need any supplemental feeding. Using livestock in conjunction with a rotating pasture system will allow you to always have perfectly fertilized and productive soil ready for planting, while your livestock always has fresh ground to work.

Composting

Generating your own compost is an incredibly valuable process for anyone seeking to grow large amounts of high-quality produce.

Composting is the breaking down of common solid organic matter by aerobic bacteria. It is used to recycle organic material into nutrient-rich material called compost that is similar to humus. It is one of the best soil amendments and can be a valuable fertilizer for self-sustaining gardeners.

Vermicomposting

Similar to composting, the goal of vermicomposting is to create a nutrient dense growing medium from discarded organic materials. The basic process is the same, the organic matter that would normally be discarded is added to the compost pile, decomposed aerobically, and turned into a usable highly fertile soil material.

The difference is that in normal composting the main agent breaking down the matter is aerobic bacteria and other organisms, and with vermicomposting that process is accelerated through the use of earthworms to break down the material faster and more thoroughly than without.

Rainwater harvesting

One of the most valuable resources for gardeners, water, literally falls from the sky. With a little preparation and sweat equity, a rain catchment system can quickly and easily be implemented, allowing the storage of large quantities of water for later use.

Rainwater harvesting is often done with a minimum of special equipment, generally requiring little more than a roof, a gutter with a downspout, and a rain barrel or water tank. Provided measures are taken to discard the water contained in the “first flush” which will contain debris and contaminants that should be allowed to wash away before collection begins, rainwater can easily be made potable.

Earthworks and Landforms

A very effective method of large scale gardening and permaculture resource management is to create earthworks to help control water flow and erosion. These methods can include:

Ditches

Ditches are essentially a trenched drainage device. Ditches are going to be fairly deep and narrow, allowing an easy way to direct high volumes of water that will also be fast-moving.

A ditch will often be used to prevent a surge of water volume from eroding other portions of the gardening or crop areas. For example, ditches may be utilized to funnel water runoff from a large rainstorm away from delicate beds of greens or herbs, and directed to a swale where it can be spread out over a larger area, slowed down, and allowing the water to settle and soak in.

Swales

Swales are large, open, gentle depressions that follow the contour of the land, allowing stormwater runoff a place to slow down and spread out over a larger area, eventually facilitating settling and absorption.

They are broad and shallow and are only slightly depressed when compared to the surrounding area. Swales are perfect for filtering runoff, immobilizing contaminants, pollutants, and particulates by allowing them to settle and be filtered by the surrounding soil.

Hugelkultur

Often thought of as the perfect companion to swales, the hugelkultur or more simply “hugel”, is a hill or a mound for growing, that is built on a foundation of a pile of felled trees or rotten wood. It is ultra-low maintenance and drought-resistant garden and earthworks feature that will produce a fertile mound of growing medium that only gets more productive over the years as the wood continues to rot and release nutrients into the soil around it.

While it takes a good bit of effort to physically construct the hugel, it will compound the benefits it offers over the years. For the first several years after its creation, the aerobic decomposition will have an exothermic effect on the soil, giving you a longer growing season.

In the years following that, the wood will begin to shrink and will create voids that allow a self tilling effect to take place. The rotting wood will also hold water like a sponge, retaining large amounts of water that are automatically released into the surrounding soil, combating dry conditions, and reducing or eliminating the need for separate irrigation.

The main thing to remember with hugels is to use wood in the core that will rot and decay. Do not use any rot-resistant or allelopathic woods like cedar, black walnut, l7 or black locust. They will not rot, and will actually inhibit microbial growth, significantly reducing the desirable effects produced by the decomposition.

Preservation and Long Term Storage

While the short term goal with your garden is to feed yourself and your family, the long-term goal is to have a decent stockpile of survival foods. There are many methods that you can utilize that will allow you to save your harvest and to feed your family over a tough winter or in an emergency.

Root Cellars

One of the oldest long-term storage methods, root cellars work to preserve and store food by using the cool dampness of being underground to their advantage. Root cellars are nice and cool, but still above 32°. They are also humid which allows vegetables to retain their moisture and preventing them from turning rubbery. In addition to root vegetables, cellars are great for storing nuts, seeds, and even some fruits and vegetables.

Canning

Canning is a great way to save meats, stews, veggies, and jams for later use. With canning, you use mason jars to store and preserve your foods and either pressure or hot water method to seal them. The lids of the jar have a wax ring that seals to the rim of the jar. If left in a cool, dark place, home-canned items can be stored for a year or more.

Dehydration

Dehydration is a fantastic way to preserve your favorite fruits, vegetables, and even herbs and meats! Some items you will want to eat in the dried form such as apple chips, others you may want to rehydrate by soaking in hot water or adding to soups and stews.

Seed Saving

While most seeds you won’t be eating, saving your seeds is an easy way to get a jump on your garden for next year. Saving the seeds from fruits and vegetables that you grew this year allows you to cut down on your gardening costs in the future. Heirloom seed preservation is also important for genetic diversity and can be traded and sold.

Getting Started

There are many articles out there inferring that preppers should buy seeds packaged for long term storage so that when the shit hits the fan they can dig up part of the lawn and grow their own food. This is a woefullly misguided notion. Remember, the time to start learning is not when you are hungry.

Once you have taken all the factors into consideration and chosen a location, it is time to plan out your garden. Make a sketch on some graph paper of your garden, and get that seed catalog handy. If you need help planning it, the Farmers Almanac has a very easy to use garden planner.

Once your garden is prepared, your layout is decided, and your seeds have arrived, you probably want to get planting, but you might be wondering when is the best time to start. The good news is, every season has things that can be planted, whether you are in spring, summer, or fall, there are plants that should be going in the ground to get ready for the upcoming growing season.

You might think that because you weren’t ready until late August, you may have missed the summer season. And you would be right! But that’s alright, late-season brassicas do well, and fall is the perfect time to get some garlic and onions in the ground. The same goes for spring and summer, there is always something that needs to get in the ground soon in order to be ready for the upcoming season.

Winter is the perfect time of year to solidify next year’s garden plan. It is time to inventory the pantry to evaluate the most popular crops and adjust the garden space allotments accordingly. Heirloom seeds are inventoried, new seeds are ordered and indoor starts are planted.

Need An Easy Way To Start? Try the 3 Sisters

If you are eager to get started with an easy garden, you may want to try out a small plot with a “3 sisters garden”. This is a method that has been used for thousands of years to grow multiple crops in one place simultaneously, and is a perfect example of function stacking and utilizing natural architecture. This layout can also be adapted to nearly any type of garden.

You will plant beans (generally a pole bean), sweet corn, and squash. The rationale behind the companion plants here is that the corn provides a sturdy stalk for the beans to climb, while the squash leaves shade the soil, minimizes water loss, and prevents weeds, and the beans fix nitrogen in the soil for the corn and the squash to excel.

Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

The bugle call of an elk is a distinctive sound. There are multiple ways that a hunter can use this noise to their benefit. You can use it to track the movement of the elk. Or you can mimic their calls to attract them to the area. But will the elk bugle all year?

Elk will be most active during the rut. This occurs during the fall, usually between the end of September to the middle of October. But they will continue to bugle during the year. The bugle is their primary way of calling out potential challengers and controlling their herd.

Understanding the elk bugle is crucial for hunters. Keep reading to learn more about elk bugle calls and how you can put this information to use when hunting.

When do Elk Bugle

Elk will bugle throughout the year in North America. But the amount that they bugle will vary throughout the year.

They will be most active during the rut. This occurs during the fall months. They use this call to help them attract a mate. Because of this, it’s not uncommon for bulls to bugle most of the day. As we’ll discuss later, they will be more responsive to calls made during this time.

The breeding season will depend on where you live. Usually, though, you should start to hear bugling at the beginning of September. This will continue until mid to late October. But you might still be able to hear bugling towards the end of November.

You will be able to hear bugling throughout the rest of the year. But it will be occurring less frequently. Because of this, you will need to listen more carefully to identify the elk. Later, we’ll go more in-depth about the type of bugles you should be listening for.

What Time of the Day are Elk Most Active?

During the rut season, the best time to listen for elk bugling will be during the night. The twilight period will bring an increase in bugling activity. They will bugle most frequently during the rut. Sometimes, they can call out so much that they become hoarse.

The way the elk behaves will depend on the time of the day. During the sunrise and sunset, they will tend to be more active. This makes morning and evening hunts most productive.

During the day, they will tend to bed down. Often, they will move into thicker woods, making them more difficult to locate and hunt. It’s best to look for food and water resources.

Why do Elk Bugle

There are a few reasons why elk will bugle. Often, it will be their way of attracting a mate to the area. They might also use it to establish dominance and keep other men out of the area. Sometimes, it can be a way to alert fellow elk to danger in the area.

There are two main reasons why an elk will bugle. These are:

1. When an elk is bugling during the rut, it is often a way for the bull to attract a cow to them, so they can mate. Because of this, they want to make sure that their call is louder and more attractive than other bulls.
2. They can use their bugle as a way to establish their dominance. They want to make sure that other males stay out of their way. Because of this, they might use their bugle as a sign of aggression, acting as the precursor to a fight.

Other Ways Elk Attract a Mate

The bugle is just one way that an elk will attempt to get a mate. Some of the other ways they can get a mate’s attention are:

• Rubbing. During the rut, elk will rub themselves against trees and other objects. This is their way of showing their dominance. It also allows them to get old velvet out of their skin.
• Wallowing in mud and urine. This is designed to increase their scent making them more attractive.
• Hanging vegetation off their antlers. Sometimes, you will find that elk are hanging vegetation from their antlers. This is used to show their dominance.

Other Types of Elk Calls

Like humans, elk use their bugles to help them communicate their emotions. Some of the reasons why they might want to make a bugle call include:

• Warning of danger. The elk have a finely tuned sense of smell and have good hearing. If they sense a potential threat in the area, they will make noises to alert other group members. This lets them flee to safety.
• Calling for help. Sometimes, a young elk will make a call. This is often calling out to their mother or seeking some other type of help.
• Anger. Sometimes, the bulls will make a call to let other elk know how powerful they are. This can bring other bulls into the area, keen to defend their territory.
• General communication. When traveling an elk herd, elk have been known to make quieter calls to each other. This ensures that they are all moving together.

As an elk hunter, it’s essential to know the difference between each of these calls. If you know why the elk are making the bugling call, you’ll know the best way to respond to them. This will help you encourage them to get close enough to take a shot. We’ll talk about how you can do this a little later.

What Does an Elk Bugle Sound Like?

Many people are familiar with the most common elk bugle call. This will start as a low-pitched growl. But, as it goes on, it will transform into a high-pitched scream. This sound will carry long distances, so you might hear it echoing through mountainous terrain. You can listen to the bugle noise here.

Other Types of Elk Bugles

While this is the most famous type of bugle, elk will change their bugle depending on their situation. Some other kinds of bugles include:

• Locator calls. This is done throughout the year by the herd’s dominant bull. It’s their way of finding out if any other males in the area could challenge their dominance. If they don’t get any responses, they will continue on their way. Sometimes, they will stay in the same place when sending out these bulges. You can use this to your advantage, allowing you to pinpoint his location.
• Challenge bugle. Sometimes, there will be rival bulls in the area. They send out this bugle when they think their dominance will be challenged. At the end of these bugles, they will add a few chuckles.

Other Types of Elk Calls

While elk are known for their bugle, it isn’t the only sound they will make. Some of their other calls include:

• Mew. This is similar to the meowing that a kitten will make. It’s how the calves will communicate with their mothers.
• Chuckles added to the end of a bugle. This is a way for the bull to demonstrate its dominance and power. The more chuckles, the more powerful it is.
• Drum sounds. Sometimes, you’ll hear deep noises, like the banging of a drum. Because they are so deep, this sound will travel over a long distance. This is another way for the bull to prove its dominance, challenging any surrounding males. It’s most common during the elk rut.
• Bark. This is the sound no hunter wants to hear. Like a dog’s bark, the elk will use this noise to signal danger in the area. This is the herd’s cue to get out of the site.
• Chirping. This is a high-pitched noise. It’s often used within the herd to ensure the group stays together.
• Clashing. If you are elk hunting, you might hear the sound of elk clashing antlers. This is their primary way of establishing dominance, showing that they are the most muscular male in the area.

Using Bugle Calls to Track Elk Movements

Now that we know more about what a bugle is and why elk will make this noise, we can use it to our advantage when hunting. The first thing we can do is use the bugles to locate where the herd is. They will even bugle when they are bedded down.

But using a call to locate the elk can be a difficult task. It can echo off mountains and rocks, making it hard to pinpoint the cause of the signal. The good news is that you don’t need to rely on it during the rut season.

First, you’ll want to look at the trees. See if you can spot any signs that they have been rubbing on them. It’s also a good idea to look for things like droppings or tracks. This tells you how recently the elk were in the area.

Like all hunts (mule deer, red deer, moose), you’ll need to consider how the elk will react to stimuli. If there are a lot of humans around, the elk will often want to avoid that area. You should also look at a map. Look for signs of water, food, and other wildlife. The elk will want to move towards these areas.

This article goes into more depth about how you can locate both bull elk and cow elk during your hunt.

Using a Bugle to Attract Elk

Another way to use the bugle to your advantage is by replicating the call. This will bring the elk to you. Let’s look at how you can do this.

Making a Realistic Bugle Noise

The first thing that you need to do is learn how to make a realistic bugling noise. You will need to build or buy an elk bugle to do this. This is a tube that will allow you to replicate the call of the elk. This video shows you how to develop your bugle. Alternatively, you can find them in hunting stores.

How to Call for Elk

Once you have your bugle, it’s time to go hunting. Once you have located the elk, you’ll need to decide what type of bugle you want to employ. This will depend on the type of call the elk is providing.

Sometimes, you will get a more tentative call. In this case, you might need to wait until you are closer to start getting aggressive. This will help you force the elk into the open, where you can get a shot at them.

On the other hand, you might be able to get aggressive from the start. This will force the elk towards you so that you can get a good shot. Here are a few other tips that you can use:

• Be in control. You want to make sure that the elk respond to your calls rather than you reacting to them. If you can do this, they will want to come to you.
• Elk have two emotions. There are two things that the elk will respond to. They will respond to love. This is especially important during the rut, as they bugle to attract a mate. The other emotion is anger. This is what happens when you are going into their territory and start challenging their dominance.
• Understand the emotions. Many people can get caught up in trying to replicate the call perfectly. But this is often less important than reading the emotions of the elk that you are communicating with. The elk will come if you can make the right call at the right time.
• Keep practicing. Like all skills, your elk calling will improve the more you practice it. If you want more tips on what you should focus on, check out this video with champion caller Corey Jacobsen.

Why Do Some Elk Run From a Bugle Call?

Most of the time, the elk will go towards a bugle. They want to face their challenger and prove their dominance. But this won’t always be the case.

Sometimes, they will gather up their herd and leave the area. Among hunters, this is called bugling and running. There are a few reasons why this might be happening.

Sometimes, it might be a young elk. They might be too inexperienced and concerned about the prospect of going up against a bigger animal. Because he doesn’t want to lose his harem, he might want to move his cows out of the area before losing the challenge.

On the other hand, bigger bulls can also bugle and run. They might have a lot of cows who are coming into estrous. At this time, he will often be more focused on breeding than proving his dominance.

Third, the hunter might have made a mistake. If a hunter has already spooked the bull, he will be warier. If he can sense danger in the area, he is unlikely to go towards the sound. He’ll just want to gather his herd and move away from the threat.

The good news is that bugling and running are rare occurrences. In most cases, if you make a good call, the elk will come to you.

Final Thoughts

Bugling for elk is one of the essential tools that a hunter will have at their disposal. If you can understand why they are bugling, you’ll be able to respond appropriately. When done right, the elk should come to you, giving you plenty of opportunities to shoot them.

Though this will be most effective during the rut, elk will bugle all year. As a result, a good caller will always be able to attract elk into the area.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• https://blog.nwf.org/2014/11/5-intriguing-fall-elk-rut-behaviors-videos/
• https://www.nps.gov/thingstodo/elk-bugling-wica.htm
• https://www.fieldandstream.com/hunting/learn-the-right-elk-calls/
• https://targetcrazy.com/hunting/elk-sounds-meanings/
• https://elkhuntersguide.com/locating-elk/

Catfish are one the most popular game fish on the North American continent and varieties of catfish can be caught world-wide. Catfish have always seemed something rather elusive to me growing up.

I know how to locate them and how to catch them. I’ve seen countless folks around me do it all the time. But I always seemed to have bad luck myself. Maybe I’ve been using the wrong bait.

How about worms? Surely they will catch plenty of catfish, right? I mean they work incredibly on bullheads. So I did some research for this article.

Can you catch catfish with worms? You can catch catfish using worms. Worms provide fish-attracting scent and enough natural action to draw in fish day or night. The effectiveness of worms makes them one of the most popular catfish baits.

While you may luck into a stringer full of catfish by haphazardly tossing worm-baited hooks into the abyss, there are specific ways to ensure bites and action using worms. Read on to learn how to maximize your catfish success.

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They have countless listings for such dream destinations as the Florida Keys, Corpus Christi, Great Lakes, San Diego, Central America, Montana, and many more. Click here to visit Fishing Booker and book your trip of a lifetime at very affordable prices.

Worms: The Ideal Bait for Catfish

Worms are actually the perfect catfish bait for a variety of reasons. They are readily available everywhere and in every garden or bait shop.

They are free or very inexpensive depending on your means of acquiring them. They also offer great longevity and hardiness.

But we don’t care about all that. What we really care about is how to catfish like them. Catfish devour worms given the opportunity.

Sure there are plenty of bait options (cut bait, live bluegills, chicken liver, etc) that work really well under certain circumstances, but worms will catch catfish under universal circumstances.

Worms will catch catfish often times when other baits won’t.

Worms vs. Nightcrawlers for Catfish

When fishing for catfish, worms (red worms & earthworms) and nightcrawlers have their own advantages and disadvantages. I personally think worms are superior to nightcrawlers for catfish and I explain why.

First, worms are more lively and “flail” about on the worm more vigorously than nightcrawlers. Worms are more “twitchy” and reactive than their bigger, more docile cousins.

While you can usually get by only putting one single nightcrawler on the hook instead of multiple red worms, the resulting action just won’t be the same.

Perhaps even more critical a factor is the scent released by both forms of worm. Red worms are more aggressive feeders of decaying matter than nightcrawlers. This permeates into their body and out of their pores.

You may not be able to smell a difference in your hands, but catfish can detect a couple red worms more vividly from a few feet away easier than a single big nightcrawler.

If I had to choose, I’m going red worms.

Half-Worm vs. Full-Worm vs. Multiple Worms

There is a lot of nuance to this answer. This could vary from fishermen to fishermen. I’m going to go with multiple worms for catfish and I’ll explain why in a second.

Using half a worm is ideal for smaller-mouthed fish like bluegills and even small bullheads. This is because with fish like that, you want the piece of worm they grab to allow contain the point of the hook.

Their mouths are so small, you could just pull the worm off the hook and never come close to the hook itself.

If you we are talking about using a full worm, I’m assuming we are referring to a big nightcrawler. Like I mentioned earlier, I don’t love nightcrawlers as catfish bait.

I think their sluggishness and lack of scent makes them inferior as catfish bait to red worms. You can still catch catfish with them but my choice is clear.

I think you’ll have much better success with cats if you hook multiple red worms on your line than a single nightcrawler. I also believe using 1/2 a nightcrawler or worm simply is not enough meat to draw in a hungry cat.

You have to remember catfish hunt by touch and smell. The more of both those senses you can address with your bait, the easier fishing will be.

How About Plastic Worms for Catfish?

So we have clearly demonstrated that worms and nightcrawlers work very well for catfish. Let’s go a step further. Can you use plastic worms to catch catfish?

The answer is yes. It is possible to catch catfish using plastic worms. Catfish are naturally curious predators and rely heavily on their sense of touch and smell to locate food.

Bass fishermen occasionally hook into catfish when jigging soft plastic worms. This is especially true when using “Carolina-style” worm rigs.

“…I catch a catfish or two every once in a while. I know immediately once they take the bait, the pull is too steady to be a bass.” – unnamed South Carolina bass angler.

However, I would advise strongly against targeting catfish will these soft plastic baits. You’ll be wasting your time targeting catfish this way. Catfish are very smell-driven and plastic worms give on an unnatural but delicate odor.

Catfish are used to eating fishy and dying things. There’s a reason why many of the top catfish baits and attractants small awful. Catfish may eat a plastic worm on occasion but there are so many other baits that will be better for the average catfish angler. Just put a real worm on the line.

Day-Time vs. Nighttime

Nighttime. If you had to pick between day time and nighttime to throw worms at catfish, the easy answer is night. This because catfish are the most active during the summer at night.

They aggressively ascend and descend in the water column in search of prey: living and dead. At night, there’s a decent chance your bait won’t even reach the bottom before a hungry cat scoops it up.

Don’t get me wrong though, you can still catch a lot of catfish during the day, especially in the late afternoon. But if your wife is making you pick the time you’ll be out of the house, go with night.

For a complete gear and tackle recommendation for catfish, check out my recommended catfish gear list which will help you catch more and larger catfish than anyone else.

9 Tips: More Catfish Caught Using Worms

1. Multiple Rods/Multiple Distances

When fishing for catfish, especially from shore, cast your worms out to different distances. This will ensure each of your baits will settle on the floor at different depths.

Catfish are roaming characters but they will likely be grouped in similar depths depending on temperature, food sources, and other factors. Because of this, use your first few casts as “fish finders” to locate the distance from shore they are at.

2. Poke More Holes in Worms

Worms are jam-packed with nutrients and corresponding scents. A worm with just a single hole in it will release a fraction of the scent a worm with multiple “hookings” will. Yes, hookings is a real word because I just created it.

3. Fish Bottoms Only

There are times when catfish will feed higher in the water column like at night, but for 90% of your catfish outings, put your baits flat on the bottom of the river or lake.

I really like recommended bobber striker indicators but for catfish, I won’t. You want your worm on the bottom, not hovering off the bottom.

4. Break Out Flashlights

Nighttime is the right time for catfish. Ok, they can be caught at all times of the day but nighttime cats are especially voracious feeders.

Catfish are extremely reliant upon senses other than sight so they are perfectly at home hunting in darkness. Grab your flashlights, lanterns, and a jar of nightcrawlers and start casting.

5. Add Some Scent to Worms

Worms already come well-infused with natural attractive scent. Believe it or not though, it can be improved upon.

Some avid catfishermen will dip their worms in blood or even sauerkraut. Seems a little odd but it apparently works well for them.

6. Create a Burley

Most Americans likely don’t know what a burley is. From what I gather, it is a very popular and effective way of chumming in saltwater fish in New Zealand and Australia especially.

Create your own burley by tossing ground pieces of old fish or red meat. Cornmeal can work well too but will draw in bluegills that will steal your worms.

7. Avoid Vegetation

Catfish don’t discriminate when it comes to hunting grounds. They can hunt quite actively near vegetation. I’m recommending you avoid weeds for now because bluegills love weeds.

Bluegills are the single biggest (and smallest size-wise) threat to your bait. Bluegills will strip the worms off your hook before catfish can find it.

Fish muddy bottoms away from weeds and you can bet the only thing eating your worms will be large cats.

8. Use Long-Shanked or Circle Hooks

Catfish have a tendency to swallow worms completely. This can result in a gut-hooked fish which is difficult to release.

Instead, select a long-shanked hook which is harder to swallow and easier to remove. Better yet, spring a little extra money and buy some nice circle hooks.

Circle hooks are designed to hook in the corners of fish’s mouths nearly every time.

9. Rods with Backbone

This goes without saying when fishing live bait. Make sure your rod has the backbone to handle a 10+ pound catfish. If you hook into a 30-pound blue or flathead catfish, you’ll be wishing you had the rod to handle it.

There are a lot of great fishing rod & reel combos on the market for catfish. I personally recommend this 7’0″ rod and reel combo available on Amazon for most catfish angling you can do. It offers great casting ability, a ton of backbone power, and a more reliable rod for better catfish action.

Related Questions

Are worms a naturally occurring food source for catfish?

I don’t think so. Short of worms being washed into the water by heavy rain or a kid tossing a handful of worms in the water, I can’t imagine a scenario where a worm (a creature that drowns in water), is just crawling along the bottom of a lake.

Will bullheads also bite worms?

Yes, bullheads readily consume worms presented to them. You may be lucky enough to catch catfish and bullheads in the same section of water using this bait.

If you have a smoker or grill at home, you may wonder what the best fish to smoke are. While salmon and tuna are often the most popular options for smoking, home chefs will be pleased to know that dozens of fish make for delicious smoked meals.

Learn all there is to know about choosing the right fish for smoking and how to get the perfect cook.

Factors to Consider When Selecting Fish for SmokingWhen choosing a fish for smoking, consider these factors:

• Texture: The texture of the fish is crucial when smoking. Choose fish with firm, dense flesh that can withstand smoking without falling apart. Delicate fish may not hold up well during smoking.
• Flavor profile: Consider the fish’s natural flavor. Do you prefer something potent or light? The flavor should complement the smoky notes from the smoking process. For example, milder fish may absorb smoky flavors more readily, while stronger-flavored fish may provide a bolder smoky taste.
• Oil content: Fish with higher oil content tend to produce a richer and more flavorful result when smoked. However, you can still smoke leaner fish with proper preparation and smoking techniques.
• Size and thickness: Thin pieces may cook too quickly and become dry, while very thick pieces might take too long to smoke evenly. Choose fish portions that are of consistent thickness for even smoking.

Best Fish for Smoking

While personal preference plays a significant role in determining the “best” fish to smoke, these fish are welcome staples in many culinary settings:

1. Salmon

Salmon has a high oil content, particularly in the form of healthy omega-3 fatty acids, which not only imparts a rich and buttery flavor but also helps the fish absorb and carry the smoky aroma effectively.

In addition, salmon has firm flesh, making it resilient during the smoking process, resulting in a moist and flaky texture when done correctly.

As all salmon lovers know, this delicious and buttery fish is versatile, especially when smoked.

Whatever the case, salmon has long been a favorite in backyard barbecues for many reasons. Learn the best way to smoke salmon at home in our guide.

2. Trout

Trout has a delicate and mild flavor that quickly absorbs the smoky nuances of the smoking process, resulting in a well-balanced and flavorful product.

It also has firm, flaky flesh that holds up well during smoking. Compared to other fish, trout is relatively small, allowing it to smoke quickly.

Trout is a popular choice among anglers, making it readily available in many regions and a favorite for home smoking enthusiasts looking to enjoy the process from catch to table.

3. Mackerel

Mackerel has a robust and distinctive flavor that produces a flavorful and bold smoked fish.

It’s also naturally rich in healthy oils, helping absorb and retain the smoky aroma effectively.

Additionally, mackerel’s dense flesh holds up remarkably well during smoking, staying moist and flaky.

Smoked mackerel often appears in the form of pate, rice bowls, salads, and even sushi.

4. Bluefish

While not a popular tablefish, bluefish is an excellent choice for smoking due to its strong and distinctive flavor. This bold flavor profile stands up well to the smoking process, resulting in a rich, smoky taste.

Bluefish’s higher oil content enhances its ability to absorb and carry smoky flavors. Its firm texture remains intact during smoking, ensuring a moist and flaky dish.

5. Haddock

Haddock has that signature mild and slightly sweet flavor you look for when smoking fish.

This mildness allows the smoky flavors to shine without overwhelming the palate.

Plus, its firm and flaky texture doesn’t fall apart upon smoking.

It’s versatile and an excellent star for dishes like chowders and fish pies, whose smoked flavor imparts depth and complexity.

6. Whitefish

Whitefish, such as lake whitefish or whitefish from the Great Lakes region, is an excellent choice for smoking because of its clean and mild flavor profile. The smoke doesn’t easily overpower it.

It holds up well during smoking and is perfect for salads, spreads, or simply enjoying as a standalone smoked fillet.

You can smoke whitefish into a seafood paella, various salads, and tacos.

7. Swordfish

Swordfish is a unique and excellent choice for smoking, thanks to its dense and meaty texture.

Smoked swordfish tastes almost beefy and is often more savory than tuna, perch, or trout. Thus, it makes the perfect protein for tacos or even on crackers.

8. Halibut

Halibut is among the most versatile fish for smoking, making an excellent addition to dishes like risotto, tacos, or as a standalone fillet.

The leanness and firmness of the flesh allow for a delectable burst of smoky flavor, especially when marinated.

In addition, frozen halibut is available year-round, making it a popular choice for family barbecues.

Kyle’s Tips for Smoking Fish

When done correctly, smoking fish can be a rewarding culinary experience. Here are some tips for first-time smokers:

• Start with fresh fish: Use the freshest fish available. Freshness is critical to achieving the best flavor and texture in smoked fish.
• Prep the fish: Clean and fillet the fish properly, removing any bones, scales, and entrails. Rinse the fish and pat it dry with paper towels.
• Brine for flavor and moisture: Brine the fish for a few hours before smoking. Brining enhances flavor, helps the fish retain moisture, and adds a layer of protection against over-smoking. You can experiment with different brine recipes to customize the flavor.
• Air dry: Allow the fish to air dry for an hour or more after brining. The fish will form a pellicle or tacky surface layer that helps the smoke adhere.
• Select the appropriate wood: Popular wood chips and pellets include alder, hickory, apple, cherry, and oak. The wood you select will influence the flavor of the smoked fish.
• Control the temperature: Maintain a consistent smoking temperature, ideally between 180°F to 225°F (82°C to 107°C). Use a reliable smoker thermometer to monitor the temperature.
• Smoke the fish low and slow: Slow smoking allows the fish to absorb the smoky flavor gradually while retaining moisture and tenderness.
• Use a drip pan: Place a drip pan underneath the fish to catch any drippings, prevent flare-ups, and keep the smoker clean.
• Avoid over-smoking: Over-smoking can lead to a bitter or acrid taste. Smoke the fish until it reaches the desired level of smokiness, typically 1 to 3 hours, depending on the size and thickness of the fish.
• Moisture maintenance: Use a water pan inside the smoker to maintain moisture levels and help prevent the fish from drying.
• Check for doneness: Test for doneness by using a meat thermometer. The fish should reach an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C). It should be opaque and flake easily with a fork when done.

Remember that practice makes perfect when it comes to smoking fish. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t flawless; learning the nuances of your specific smoker and your palate’s preferences may take some time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I smoke frozen fish?

You can smoke frozen fish, but thawing it thoroughly before smoking will yield better results.

Smoking frozen fish may result in uneven cooking and potentially unsafe conditions, as the outer layers may reach the desired temperature while the inner portions remain frozen.

Thawing the fish in the refrigerator or using a cold-water method ensures even cooking and better flavor absorption during the smoking process.

Can I use a regular grill for smoking fish?

You can use a regular grill for smoking fish through “indirect grilling.”

To do this, create a two-zone fire by heating one side of the grill and leaving the other unlit.

Place soaked wood chips or pellets in a foil packet on the lit side, then place the fish on the unlit side.

Close the grill lid, maintain the desired smoking temperature, and monitor the process carefully to achieve a smoky flavor while cooking the fish indirectly.

How do I store smoked fish, and how long does it stay fresh?

To store smoked fish, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap or aluminum foil to minimize exposure to air.

Then, place it in an airtight container or resealable plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator at temperatures below 40°F (4°C).

Smoked fish stays fresh in the refrigerator for about 5 to 7 days.

For extended storage, you can freeze smoked fish for 2-3 months, ensuring it’s well-wrapped and airtight to prevent freezer burn.

Summary

Fish is a highly underrated player in the barbecue game. If you have a grill at home, you’ll be surprised what you can do with the humblest of fillets.

For novice smokers, our wild Alaskan sockeye salmon is the ideal place to start. Learn the differences between lox, smoked salmon, and nova for the best results.