Turkey hunting was one of our favorite pastimes and we used to spend a ridiculous amount of time and energy simply getting ready for the hunting season to finally open. When it did, we would bundle up and head out in search of the perfect tom to dress our table. While we don’t get to go out too often anymore, we still highly recommend it.

In Ohio (as with many states) bag limits for wild turkey are ridiculously small, making this once-common game bird a delicacy each season. Even though this delicious meal is something we don’t get to eat every day, knowing the health benefits, nutrition, and safe handling of wild turkey meat is good information that might even make your next delicious roasted wild turkey taste better than it already does.

Just the Facts: Wild Turkey Meat vs Domestic Turkey

Wild turkeys feast on a varied diet that includes anything from seeds, acorns, and nuts to lizards, snails, and worms. This might not sound like the most appetizing feast to you and me, but for a turkey, the wild ones eat the best. Domestic turkey feed simply attempts to recreate the menu of wild turkey. The differences in diet are similar to what you find when looking at the nutrition of wild hogs vs domestic ones.

The biggest difference between wild turkey meat and domestic birds is in the fat content. Wild turkeys spend most of their lives moving from one place to another, flying up to roost in trees at night and avoid inevitable predators, giving these birds a more lean meat.

While domestic turkeys technically have more protein due to their controlled diet, they are also much higher in fat content because they don’t get as much exercise as their wild cousins.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture, 100 grams of turkey breast meat contains 29 grams of protein and 7 grams of fat. The same portion of wild turkey breasts offers 25 grams of protein but just 1 gram of fat. Darker meat from thighs and legs has even less fat but slightly less protein.

Both wild turkey meat and domestic turkey meat contain many important vitamins and nutrients so don’t worry about whether or not wild turkey is good for you. It’s more important to focus on learning the optimal way to cook the perfect wild turkey.

Best Ways to Cook Wild Turkey

Here is a little secret – one of the main reasons that wild turkey and regular turkey taste different is because of how they are cooked. Domestic turkey that you buy in the store is typically injected with salt water which adds weight and increases the juiciness, helping to prevent the finished bird from being too dry. Wild turkey, already significantly lower in fat, doesn’t have the benefit of brine injection and tends to dry out easily.

With that in mind, you will want to adjust how you cook wild turkey to get the best results. When done right, wild turkey is the most delicious of game birds.

The key to properly cooking wild turkey starts from the moment you kill the bird. It is important to field dress the bird as soon as possible. Start by removing the innards and crop. Don’t forget to remove the gland at the base of the tail while you are at it. Pluck the feathers while the bird is still warm. You’ll use short, swift tugs to remove the feathers a few at a time. If you wait until the bird has cooled, you’ll likely end up tearing the skin quite a bit and that is simply a waste. Thoroughly wash and dry the bird before putting it in the refrigerator. Like any game animal, you want to complete this process and get it in the cooler as quickly as possible.

Brining wild turkey is one common method to help prevent the bird from drying out while cooking. Brine allows you to add herbs and flavors that enhance the finished flavor. Cooking an unbrined wild turkey is a bit of a challenge, but the results are awesome. The trick is to use plenty of butter or olive oil to prevent drying out. As a bonus, butter and olive oil will help wild turkey taste good and finish tender. Make sure to check out our favorite brine recipe for smoked turkey.

Wild turkey can also be done in a slow cooker to help improve juiciness. It isn’t our favorite way to do it, but using a slow cooker will give you predictable results, especially when cooking wild turkey breast or skinny birds with strong muscles that taste dry.

No matter the cooking method you use when cooking turkey, you’ll need to aim for an internal temperature of at least 165 degrees. Take the measurement in the thickest part of the thighs. It is often best to separate the breasts from the whole bird when cooking because they will cook faster than other parts and can dry out. The cooking process you use should be carefully monitored to prevent overcooking.

What Does Wild Turkey Taste Like?

You are likely to hear lots of people tell you that wild turkey tastes nothing like store-bought birds. They are right, but that also doesn’t tell you much about what wild turkey actually tastes like.

Think of it like this – wild turkey tastes more like turkey gravy, whereas store-bought turkey tastes like a package of sliced turkey breast on sale at the grocery store.

Wild birds aren’t necessarily gamey like many types of wild meat, but it also depends on what the birds are eating.

Fall turkey and spring turkey also don’t taste the same, but fall is the best time to bag a bird for Thanksgiving turkey.

Wild turkey breast meat is darker than domestic breast meat and has a lot more intense flavor, in part because of the lack of injected brine. Wings are bigger because of the birds’ powerful flight abilities and the unique taste is simply better than a store-bought bird.

Ready to Try It This Season?

The chance to eat wild turkey doesn’t come around all that often, so you should treat the chance with respect. Wild bird was once one of the most common things that Americans ate, but these days, strict limits make the chance to savor these delicious game birds a unique opportunity.

But we’d say it’s totally worth the time and effort spent preparing for the hunting season, scouting our favorite spots, and gearing up for the hunt. A properly cooked wild turkey is one of life’s simple gifts that we believe should be savored and appreciated.

If you manage to bag one, don’t forget to try out Scott’s classic maple chipotle turkey recipe.

Not sure what scope to get for your 1-8x?

Look no further.

I’ve tested ALL the best 1-8x scope (plus 1-8xscope mounts and accessories.)

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect optic for your 1-8x.

Let’s get started!

1-6x vs. 1-8x Scope

If you’re looking for a versatile short to mid-range scope, 1-6x or 1-8x is your best bet.

But, what’s the difference between these two choices and which is better?

Keep reading to find out…

1-6x Scope

A 1-6x scope has a variable magnification from 1x to 6x and can be set anywhere in between.

This scope can pretty much do everything you could need. At a close range of about 25 yards, you’ll be able to target and shoot almost as quickly as you could with a red dot. Which makes these scopes a great choice for an SKS rifle or any home defense rifle.

At 6x magnification, you should be able to shoot out to 1000 yards, although not extremely accurately. The sweet spot is closer to 400 yards for optimum clarity and accuracy. This is great for 3 gun competitions and most hunting situations.

1-8x Scope

With the 1-8x scope, you’ll get an extra 2x of magnification range.

While you still get 1x magnification, this scope isn’t as great at the super short ranges. It’s most effective range is around 300-500 yards, with a little give or take above and below that.

It’s great for hunting, since that’s right around the normal distances that most people prefer to hunt. However, it does have some disadvantages to the 1-6x.

Which is better?

Both the 1-6x and 1-8x variable magnification scopes are great, depending on what your main function for them will be.

There’s only a few differences between the two scopes. The main difference is the eyebox. On a 1-8x, the eyebox noticeably shrinks. With a pickier eyebox, it can be a little more difficult to use.

But, if you’re bench shooting, it may not make a huge difference for you.

Another issue is the weight and the cost. Most of the time, a 1-8x scope will both be heavier and more expensive than the 1-6x. For something like a muzzleloader, the 1-8x is likely going to weigh you down. And if you’re looking for a scope under $100, 1-8x is likely out of the question.

The benefit to the 1-8x is, of course, that you get an extra 2x of magnification, which allows you to target and shoot further. It also usually will have better glass quality than the 1-6x. Although that will really depend on the scope brand.

But, the 1-8x has to be at full magnification for the reticle to give you the best results. And that extra 2x of magnification almost always coincides with a loss of clarity, as well as a tighter eyebox.

In most cases, the 1-6x is the better choice. It does almost everything and has the best overall value. The benefits of the 1-8x don’t really outweigh the downsides, unless you really need the extra magnification. So, if you do a fair amount of long range shooting, the 1-8x might be worth it.

Another thing you’ll want to consider when choosing the right scope is whether the reticle is first focal plane or second focal plane…

What is the Difference Between First Focal Plane and Second Focal Plane?

There are a few key differences between these two types of scopes, which should help you to decide which is better for your setup.

First Focal Plane

First Focal Plane, or FFP, scopes have the reticle right in front of the magnification lens. What this means is that when the magnification changes, so does the reticle.

The reticle will increase or decrease in size as the magnification gets higher or lower.

The benefit to this type of scope is that the holdover or subtension values stay consistent and accurate, no matter the magnification. This makes it the best suited for long range shooting.

The downside to this is that the reticle can get pretty small at lower magnifications, making it difficult to see. Also, the reticle gets bigger and thicker at high magnifications, and the lines could block part of your view.

On top of that, FFP scopes are quite a bit more expensive than the SFP.

Second Focal Plane

Second Focal Plane, or SFP, scopes have the reticle behind the magnification lens. So, with these, the reticle doesn’t change its size at all.

The great thing about this is that the reticle is strong and easy to see, no matter the magnification. And it doesn’t get in your way at all.

Unlike the FFP, short range shots are quick and easy to see, which makes SFP perfect for home defense and close range hunting like you’d do with a 45-70 or any other hunting rifle.

Another bonus is that SFP scopes are a lot more affordable than the FFP scopes.

The downside is that the spacing for holdover is only correct at the highest magnification. Which means that you’ll have to calculate it when you’re using it at the lower magnification settings.

When you’re trying to choose between the two, the SFP is most common and the popular choice. Unless you do a lot of really long range shooting or long range competitions, which is where the FFP scopes excel, the SFP is a better overall value.

The 5 Best 1-8x Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 1-8x scope:

1. Swarovski Optiks L Z8i 1-8×24: Best 1-8 Scope
2. Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 1-8×24: Best for AR-15
3. UTG 1-8×28: Best for the Budget
4. Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP: Best 1-8x FFP Scope
5. Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32: Best for Hunting

1. Swarovski Optiks L Z8i 1-8×24: Best 1-8 Scope

If you are in the market for a scope to use with your 45-70 and want the best in the industry, look no further than Swarovski Optiks.

The Swarovski Optics L Z8i 1-8×24 is the clearest scope on the market.

Let me tell you why….

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Swavorski sets the standard for best optics glass in the industry-hands down. No one does it better than this Austrian company. A few may come close-but they can’t quite cut it.

Between near perfect glass clarity and the fully-multi coated lenses, the L Z8i line transmits 93% of visible light.

Meaning this is the clearest and brightest view through an optic that you’ll ever see. After using this scope, even my “best” scopes seem hazy.

The view on this scope is truly clear and precise from edge-to-edge. Other scopes may claim they have edge-to-edge clarity, but really, they only have 70% of the range this scope has.

There’s no fuzzing at the edge of objects. I couldn’t get a sharper sight picture if I had cut it with an exact-o knife.

When I took this optic out to the range, I didn’t need a spotter. I could clearly see all the hits on my paper-even pushing passed 500 yards. There’s no questioning where my shots landed.

This scope is outstanding and as Swarovski’s flagship line, the Z8i 1-8×24 outperforms all other scopes you’ll ever use in low-light situations.

The illuminated Flex-change 4A-IF reticle gives me a fully adjustable red dot. Or if I’d prefer, I can toggle to a red dot centered in an illuminated red circle.

The red dot illumination levels are the most adjustable I’ve ever seen: there are 64 different intensity levels.

The scope also features an ingenuitive battery saving feature-if the scope senses that the rifle isn’t being held at a shooting angle, it turns the red dot off.

The reticle cross hairs are thin and unobstructive. I can clearly see my target. The Z8i 1-8×24 comes with either a BDC reticle or a simple duplex.

If you have an eye condition that makes red dots hard to see, you might be interested in holographic sights.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on this particular Swarovski is pretty standard: 3.74 inches (95mm).

I found the eyebox forgiving. I use this scope in 3-gun competitions and I can easily see my shots from cover or around odd angles.

Durability

The Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 is nitrogen purged to prevent fogging.

The aluminum housing is sturdy and strong. It holds up to heavy recoil and can take a beating. As I said, I use this for 3-gun competitions so it gets thrown around and beat up.

This scope isn’t a “gun-safe queen” that I only bring out to the range on sunny days. I don’t treat it softly. It’s a tool and I work it hard.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The Swarovski L Z8i’s turrets turn with 0.1 MRAD clicks. The turrets turn with a tactile click that I can hear and feel.

The turrets are compact and unobtrusive. They are easy to turn.

Swarovski offers turret upgrades called Ballistic Turret Flex or BTF. These are aftermarket turrets you can swap out for both the elevation and windage ones that come standard from the factory.

They cost about $300 each and you don’t need extra tools to install them.

What’s the benefit of the BTF turrets?

Well, they allow me to set zeros for 3 different distances to better fine-tune your shots.

For example I can set and save zero for 100 yards, 250 yards and 500 yards to improve accuracy and take the guesswork out of hold overs or hold unders.

Personally, I think they are a worthwhile upgrade. If you’re going to spend almost $3000 on the scope, spending an extra $600 for pin-point customized accuracy is a no-brainer.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range on this Z8i is 1-8x. The single power is a near perfect 1x. The true 1x paired with an illuminated reticle makes it easy to engage close range targets with both eyes open.

The 8x is impressively clear. I could easily pop 6 inch steel targets from 800 yards.

With the aid of a throw lever, I can slam through the magnification range on the Z8i for quick target acquisition or identification-making this a perfect optic for defensive or battle use.

There’s no questioning my target in low light situations because I can clearly see it.

Check out my list of the other top 1-6x scopes on the market for a comparison.

Mounting & Rings

This optic has a 30mm tube. Any 30mm ring set will work quite well. I prefer to use these mounts from Vortex. They are only compatible with a picatinny rail. They won’t mount to a weaver.

Is the Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 worth it?

Swarovski set a high bar for optic clarity that all optics companies are trying to reach. As Swarovski’s flagship scope line, the Z8i is the best scope you can buy.

They don’t need any extra bells and whistles that other companies add to their optics to distract you from their inferior glass and coatings.

As such the Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 is the worth it because it has:

• Durable design
• Flex-Change reticle
• Unbelievable clarity
• 93% Light transmission

Why settle for any old optic, when you can get the best?

2. Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 1-8×24: Best for AR-15

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 has a set of features that make it perfect for the AR-15.

In fact:

I’ve personally bought and hand-tested this scope to see if these claims were true, and they most certainly were.

Need proof? I’ve got it all laid out down below.

Glass Clarity and Reticle

The excellent glass quality gave me a picture with no distortion or blurring to be seen. Nothing but a crisp, crystal clear image of the target.

The glass is fully multi coated and excels at drawing in ambient light for a much brighter picture. Its anti-reflective glass reduces light reflections, making it perfect at drawing less attention to your position.

The reticle is horseshoe shaped and works perfectly for aiming at silhouettes. It draws my eye to the target quickly and is useful even at maximum range. I was especially impressed with how simplistic it was so that I could focus on what I was aiming at.

I was impressed by the illuminated reticle. Targeting was a breeze even around dawn and dusk, especially when combined with the multi coatings ability to draw in ambient light.

Eye Relief and Eye Box

The eye relief is a generous 3.4” and led to no issues even at max range.

As I expected once I saw how great the glass quality was, I didn’t suffer from eye fatigue even after several hours of use. The glass is clear all the way through and even around the edges there was no sign of blurring or distortion.

Eye box was also a non-issue. I was able to easily center my picture and didn’t have to get into an uncomfortable position to do it.

Durability

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 was designed to be as durable as possible.

During testing I dropped it, banged it around, and fully submerged it in water. The high levels of abuse didn’t even scuff the exterior of the scope, much less damage the interior. It also held my zero with no issues throughout the testing.

How was it able to do all of this?

The aircraft grade aluminum this scope is made of can already handle just about anything you can throw at it, but it also has an XPL coating on the lenses.

This prevents any dirt or oil from affecting the glass and helps prevent any scratches.

It’s also argon purged and completely waterproof.

You won’t have to worry about any fogging or moisture damage even in the roughest of terrains. The one tube construction gives it an extra layer of durability as well.

Elevation and Windage Turrets

The turrets on the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 are top of the line.

Each adjustment gave crisp audible clicks just as good turrets should. Even with heavy recoil they never adjusted without me wanting them to, which is one of the top criteria I expect from them.

The best part?

It only took me 20 rounds to find my zero, and it solidly held it for the next 300 after that.

Parallax and Magnification

The parallax is fixed at 100 yards, and even bouncing between magnifications this proved to work just fine.

The magnification is 1-8x. The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 is capable of landing some pretty distant shots, but its real strength is in the close to mid range. It is best used for close quarters combat, target shooting, or hunting.

While this scope would go best with an AR, even higher power rifles work well with it. I also slapped this scope on one of my lever actions, and it’s without a doubt the best scope for Marlin .45-70.

Mounting and Rings

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 does not come with any mounting or rings.

I highly recommend getting the Vortex Optics Pro Series rings, as they mesh very well with this particular scope. $60 for the 30mm is a small price to pay for keeping your scope secure.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 worth it?

If you’re looking for a scope for your AR-15 that can deliver amazing glass quality, incredible durability, and unmatched versatility, then look no further than the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2.

Here’s why:

• Audible turrets
• Extreme durability
• Crystal clear multi-coated glass
• Horseshoe reticle for easy silhouette targeting

To sum it up: this scope has an amazing set of features that would be at home on any sort of semi-automatic rifle.

It’s a very reasonable price for the product’s quality, and I’m honestly surprised it wasn’t higher. The level of effort that was put in to make this scope incredibly durable with the high quality glass is clearly well above the norm.

So if you need an AR-15 scope that can handle any situation you get into, then look no further than the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 1-8×24.

3. UTG 1-8×28: Best for the Budget

Searching for an all-around budget scope is tiring.

I’ve found one for you.

And it’s the best scope deal anywhere. Here’s why.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Clear glass. Super clear.

The fully-multicoated emerald coatings on this scope allow maximum light transmission. With the 28mm objective lens, lighting just before dawn or after dusk can be tricky at high magnification, but it works well through most of the range.

In low light conditions, it will provide plenty of brightness at 5x or less to pop those pesky critters that keep attacking the chicken coop.

There are several reticle options available, so get the one you prefer. A BDC is available that is pre-set for .223 or 5.56 rounds, making this the perfect budget scope for an AR-15. It also comes in mil-dot and dot-circle variants.

In all cases, the reticle is etched, so if the battery dies you will still have a point of aim.

All of the extra colors seem a bit excessive to me personally, but I have mine set on the brightest red I could find and I just leave it there. If you want more color options, there are 36 in total, so you can go red, green, blue, yellow, teal, or whatever you want.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Some say that a “true” 1x scope should have infinite eye relief, but the reality is that complex lens arrangements make this impossible.

Still, I tested the eye relief as soon as I picked up the scope, and at 1x I could fit my whole hand between my eye and the scope and see just fine. Then I read the specs.

A whopping five inches of relief at 1x, and it only drops to 3.4 inches at 8x. In short, the eye relief is plenty for any application, especially high kick rifles. It’s probably the best scope for lever action 45-70.

The eye box is roomy, bigger than the front objective, making the whole setup very pleasant in both hunting and battle situations.

Durability

UTG continues to innovate, trying to keep up with the likes of Leupold and other top manufacturers, while keeping their price point down.

The tube is nitrogen purged and sealed with o-rings to ensure that it is water tight and will never fog up.

They’ve also started using this coil erector return spring on some of their scopes. Think of this like the shocks on your car. Even under heavy recoil or an occasional bump, the inner guts are protected from damage and remain solid, holding your zero under adverse conditions.

It also uses a smart spherical structure to maintain integrity of the outer skin to inner components. Every piece of this scope was designed around being tough, and it lives up to that reputation on top of my .308.

With the included heavy-duty mount, all of this strength does come at a cost. The scope itself is 18oz and mounted can be over a pound and a half. More on the mount later.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets have a solid click, a feature that I like.

There’s nothing worse than mushy turrets that make you take your eye off the target just to ensure that you have the right elevation dialed in for the range.

The ½MOA clicks are fast to dial in, and there are no caps in the way, so you can click over to the proper elevation and windage easily.

Parallax & Magnification

Parallax is fixed at 100 yards. This may bother some people, but if you have a solid cheek weld, you really can’t ask for more from a budget scope.

For the price of an air rifle scope, the important thing is how well the secondary focal plane and optical path are aligned. Even without adjustment, the maximum deviation due to parallax isn’t going to be enough to affect the shot too much, unless you are looking for a competition scope.

Mounting & Rings

The UTG 1-8X28 comes with its own mounting system. Depending on which variant you purchase, it will come with a single clamp mount for a Picatinny rail or two rings that will work with Picatinny or Weaver rails.

As I mentioned earlier, the scope rings are a little heavy, but they are also built ultra-rugged. This review on youtube suggested that you could smack the mount with a hammer and not budget:

I wouldn’t recommend that, but it is a super solid mounting system.

Is the UTG 1-8×28 worth it?

The UTG 1-8x28mm scope is the best all-around scope for the price, period.

For hunting, target shooting, combat, you name it, you won’t find a better optic for even twice the price. The only applications where you might want something else if if you needed a red-dot scope or a true long-range target scope.

• Fully-coated optics
• Responsive tactile clicks
• Wide magnification range
• Layers of durability through design
• Includes mounting rings, battery, and more

By the way, it also comes with a lifetime warranty from UTG!

If you want the best all-around scope for the money, the UTG 1-8×28 is it, hands down.

4. Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP: Best 1-8x FFP Scope

If you’re looking for the best 1-8x FFP scope, the Primary Arms SLx8 is the answer.

Not only does it have all the features you’d need in this type of scope, it’s also pretty lightweight and compact.

Once I tried it, I was hooked.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Primary Arms SLx8 has amazing glass quality for the price.

In fact, I was surprised that the glass was just as crystal clear as scopes twice the price.

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which draws in more light and decreases glare for the brightest, clearest sight picture.

Plus, it has a ACSS® Raptor reticle, which is a first focal plane and extremely accurate at all available magnifications. It’s also designed specifically for AR-15, AK-47, and M4 rifles.

What’s great about this reticle is that at 1x it’s basically like a small red dot, which makes for super fast target acquisition like you’d need at close quarters.

Then, at the higher magnifications, you get the full Advanced Combat Sighting System, which allows you to make precision shots out to 600 yards.

On top of that, it has 11 illumination settings and even has one that works perfectly in the brightest part of the day. All powered by one CR2032 battery that comes with the scope. And it comes with a spare!

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP is very forgiving.

It’s 3.2 inches – 3.3 inches, which means you really shouldn’t need to worry about the eye relief on this scope, especially if you’ve got a good cheek weld.

Also, this scope has a quick focus eyepiece, which helps you to get on target faster than ever.

Durability

Primary Arms is well known for its high quality products and the SLx8 1-8×24 FFP scope is no different.

It’s lightweight and compact, which makes it perfect for any setup.

Plus, it’s waterproof and fogproof, so it’ll function in any type of weather. And I can attest to this, as I’ve dropped mine in a puddle while out hunting. It came out working just the same as before.

It also comes backed with a lifetime warranty, so even if you had a problem, Primary Arms will help you get it sorted out.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets adjust easily with just a finger click and there’s both a tactile and audible, solid click for each adjustment.

They are also low profile, which is really nice. Plus, they come with turret caps.

What about zeroing?

It’s quick and easy. I had mine zeroed in 6-7 shots at 100 yards. So far, it’s been dead on accurate and after 500 rounds, it’s still held zero.

Parallax & Magnification

The Primary Arms SLx8 has a variable magnification of 1-8x.

This is the perfect range for close to mid-range distances. Basically, it works perfectly for close quarters combat, out to varmint hunting and big game hunting ranges.

1-8x is probably one of the most popular rifle scope magnification ranges because it pretty much gets you everything you could need. Unless you’re doing long range competitions or need to shoot past 600 yards, which is not as common.

As far as parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t noticed any distortion.

Mounting & Rings

This scope doesn’t come with a mount, so you’ll need to purchase one separately, but considering the quality of this scope and the affordable price point, that’s to be expected.

I recommend the Primary Arms Basic AR-15 scope mount.

It works great and that’s what I use for my AR-15 mount.

Is the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP worth it?

This scope is a great quality 1-8x scope at an affordable price compared to the competition.

You’ll get:

• Crystal clear glass
• Lightweight, compact
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• FFP ACSS® Raptor reticle
• Low profile, precise, capped turrets
• Short to mid-range precision accuracy

In short, you’ll get everything you could ask for out of a 1-8x rifle scope. Try the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP scope. You’ll be happy you did.

5. Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32: Best for Hunting

The Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 is the best scope for hunting, hands down.

In fact,

This is the best Vortex glass I’ve owned yet, and its clarity alone has given me the opportunity for crazy shots while hunting.

Want to know more? Here’s how…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Vortex Razor HD has crystal clear glass.

It’s sharp and bright with edge to edge clarity with optically indexed lenses.

The lenses are fully multi-coated and the proprietary XR Plus Fully Multi-Coated anti-reflective coating makes sure that the scope doesn’t compromise your position.

The lenses have HD Elements like premium extra-low dispersion glass. This delivers the ultimate color and clarity for high-definition imaging in the field.

The glass actually comes from the same factory as Trijicon and the higher end Leupold scopes- same quality, with half the price tag.

It comes with a G4 BDC reticle which is super clean, highly versatile, and crisp. Your eye is drawn to the fine dot in the center, even in low light.

The G4 features five hash marks and a simple sight picture. It’s a viable option for all classes of rifles- muzzleloaders, varmint, standard, and even magnum calibers.

This reticle works well for me and I’ve come to prefer the clean field of view on the top half of the glass. It’s saved me critical seconds in the field.

The locking ocular focus ensures your reticle always stays sharp and crisp after you’ve adjusted it.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Razor HD has 3.8 inches of eye relief and a very forgiving eye box.

It’s a comfortable distance for nearly any application. But practicing good cheek weld is always a good idea.

Durability

I’ve yet to be disappointed with Vortex’s quality and this scope once again checks all of the durability boxes.

Overall, the Vortex Razor HD has a rugged construction that’s waterproof, shockproof, fogproof, and ready for whatever you throw at it.

Plus, the lifetime warranty is great for my peace of mind.

First, it’s fully waterproof. The O-ring seals make sure it stays that way by preventing moisture, dust, and debris from penetrating the optic.

The single-piece tube ensures its waterproofness while also enhancing your base optics.

The scope’s Argon gas purged body means that the scope is fog-free over a wide range of temperatures or fluctuations. You’ll have a clear shot whether that’s in the snow, sun, or rain.

The one-piece tube construction is also better at keeping out moisture, keeping your scope fog proof for the rest of its life. Plus, with less moving parts, it’s more durable for heavy recoils.

Scopes have to endure a lot in the field. The Vortex Razor HD is prepared to take a beating thanks to the ArmorTek coating, hard anodized finish, and aircraft-grade aluminum construction.

At only 13.4 oz, this optic is incredibly light and built for speed. I hate lugging around heavy optics every day during a hunting trip.

The smaller scope size (only 11 inches long) also means you can run a lighter rifle with a lower profile- music to the backcountry hunter’s ears.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are almost perfect.

Their large diameter makes the adjustments easy to read, accurate, and faster.

Plus they’re capped turrets which is a must for me. This gives them external protection that’s especially helpful when making long stalks in open country.

But they’re mushy.

The adjustments knobs feel soft and don’t have a strong click to them.

Despite the mushy feeling, they do track properly. This is the only con I’ve found with the scope so far.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification ranges from 1.5x to 8x.

This is a broad and versatile range that’s ideal for hunting.

It might not deliver extreme long distances, but it’s optimized for close- and mid-range shooting with the capacity to 600 yards on a centerfire.

Plus, on a technical note, the zoom lens mechanism glides smoothly and cleanly through all magnification ranges due to the internal precision-glide erector system.

The parallax setting is fixed to 100 yards and has worked well for me so far.

Mounting & Rings

With the compact size, this optic fits best on a short action rifle. I recommend the Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings in the 1-inch size.

Plus, those specific rings will work with a Ruger Scout as the ocular bell clears the scout Picatinny mount by a few thousandths of an inch without removing the scout mount.

The tube is too short to mount on a long action rifle using a standard mount, but it could work if you were to install a rail or cantilever mounts.

In the box, you get a 3-inch sunshade as well which has come in handy out in the field.

Is the Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 worth it?

The Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 is an incredible optic that packs premium durability and crystal clear glass into a lightweight, compact package.

It’s a great addition for sub-600 yard rifle hunters and shooters looking for a lightweight, optically superior, riflescope.

Here’s why it works:

• G4 BDC (MOA) reticle
• Large Diameter Turrets
• Vortex lifetime warranty
• XR™ Plus Fully Multi-Coated
• HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass

In short, this scope will give you the added accuracy you need at a reasonable price for your next hunting trip.

If you’re looking to dramatically improve your shooting accuracy, the Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 will get you the results.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best 1-8x scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your 1-8x?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

A Self-Professed ‘Fly Snob’ Shares His Guilty Pleasure of Bait Fishing for Colorado’s Largest Sport Fish

At 7 a.m. on a sunny May morning, the fun begins: “Clang!” The empty Dr. Pepper can supporting my fluorocarbon line topples and crashes down the rocky bank toward the water. The clatter of the makeshift strike indicator disturbs the tranquil Lake Granby shoreline and rouses me from my early morning stupor.

I jump from my folding chair, spilling my coffee and hurry across the bank to rescue my spinning rod from its metal, v-shaped holder. Line races from the reel’s open bail, and my anticipation soars — the first “run” of the morning is always the most exciting.

With rod in hand, I allow the fish to swim freely a few more seconds. Then, with a subtle “click,” I close the bail, put the reel in gear and stop the fugitive before it strips me of both line and bait. The fish hits the tight line like a dog reaching the end of its leash, bending my rod into a deep arch. The resistance pushes the circle hook through the fish’s jaw, and the battle begins. Three minutes later, I land a fat 5-pound “Mack” — not huge, but a terrific way to kick off this outing.

During the next four hours, pop cans fall like targets in a shooting gallery. My friend Karen Krueger and I land eight fish in the 2- to 7-pound range and miss half as many more. By noon the action is over and we are enjoying a relaxing lunch on the beach. Krueger, who just experienced her first “Mack”-fishing trip, is grinning ear to ear. “That was a blast,” she says with childlike enthusiasm. I nod in agreement, while biting into my turkey sandwich and doing my best to ignore the foul stench of sucker meat on my fingers. We spend the rest of the afternoon basking in the warm sun. And although I’ve experienced days just like this one countless times throughout the years, I’m reminded again of how much I enjoy bait fishing for one of Colorado’s supreme sport fish — lake trout.

Okay, I admit it: I enjoy bait fishing for lake trout. As a self-proclaimed “fly snob,” it’s not easy confessing my fondness for bait fishing to my fly-fishing peers, particularly when that style of bait fishing involves soda cans and sucker meat. But a few times every year, I happily leave the fly rod at home and load my bait-fishing tackle into the Jeep — never once feeling an ounce of embarrassment about the cooler of sucker meat that’s sitting on my back seat. (Well…maybe just a little.)

Like most anglers, I began my fishing career drowning worms and salmon eggs for brook trout, rainbows and the occasional suburban-pond sunfish. But nothing captured my youthful imagination like bait fishing for lake trout. The nearly magical combination of catching large — sometimes enormous — fish and the almost methodical setup involved made fishing for “lakers” the ultimate boyhood adventure.

As I grew older, however, my angling interests transformed completely when I received my first fly rod — a transformation that soon became a life-long passion. And for the last 25 years or so, I’ve joined that haughty fraternity of anglers who fish almost exclusively with artificial flies. But as much devotion and love as I have for fly fishing and all its highbrow qualities, I occasionally feel the need to return to my bait-fishing roots.

In addition to being just plain fun, there’s a nostalgic quality that draws me to this simple, unpretentious style of angling. Bait fishing takes me back to those Huck Finn days of my youth, when I wasn’t concerned about the intricacies of fly casting, tippet weights or “matching the hatch” — only catching fish on minimal tackle and sharing those prized moments with family and friends. Isn’t that really what fishing is all about? As an adult, I find there’s also something intrinsically relaxing about fishing with bait. It’s a chance to give your casting arm a rest while idly enjoying the mountain scenery and a cold drink from the comfort of a lawn chair. I can’t think of a better way to spend a spring or fall day in Colorado.

According to surveys conducted by Colorado Parks and Wildlife (CPW), nearly half of the state’s anglers fish with bait. So, in addition to divulging my “guilty angling pleasure” to the masses, I penned this article to present all those “worm dunkers” out there with a new challenge. And to challenge my fellow lure-and fly-fishing brethren to rediscover how much fun you can have with a spinning rod, bait hooks and dirty hands — and I do mean DIRTY hands.

Sucker meat, the primary bait for lake trout, permeates your skin with a fishy odor that no amount of same-day hand scrubbing removes. My hands, cell phone, fishing gear — even the steering wheel on my Jeep — smells of sucker meat for a couple of days after a successful lake trout fishing trip. Wearing rubber or latex gloves while baiting the hook solves this problem, but the only thing worse than getting caught handling sucker meat by one of your fly-fishing buddies is to be sporting a pair of rubber dishwashing gloves while you’re doing it. Dirty hands are just part of the bait-fishing experience — a rite of passage, so to speak, for every aspiring angler who has enough courage to bait his or her own hook. If nothing else, fishing with sucker meat will get you to stop biting your fingernails faster than any other remedy. And the possibility of catching a heart-stopping lake trout is definitely worth all of the stinky side effects.

Lake Trout: What’s in a Name?

There’s likely no other freshwater fish possessing more names than lake trout; the fish has more aliases than Jesse James. In Colorado, anglers often refer to them as lakers, Mackinaw or Macks. In the Great Lakes, Alaska and Canada, where lake trout are native, fishermen call them grey trout, lake char, paperbellies, leans, siscowet and salmon trout. But perhaps the most appropriate and descriptive moniker is found in the fish’s Latin name: Salvenlinus namaycush. Namaycush, a Native American term, is said to mean “tyrant of the lakes” or “dweller of the deep.” Either translation is apropos to anglers, as lake trout are Colorado’s largest predatory sport fish, inhabiting some of the state’s coldest and deepest waters.

Characterizing lake trout as “tyrants” is fitting. They are voracious predators that feed almost exclusively upon other fish. They also get big — really big. Unlike most trout species that rarely surpass the 15-pound mark, lake trout can grow to mammoth proportions. Mackinaw in the 20- to 40-pound range are fairly common in Colorado, with anglers landing monster specimens exceeding the 40-pound mark annually. The state-record lake trout, taken from Blue Mesa Reservoir in 2007, tipped the scale at a whopping 50.35 pounds — now that’s a fish worthy of being called a tyrant! Although most lake trout caught from shore typically range in size from 2 to 20 pounds, the possibility of catching a leviathan is always present. And it’s the excitement and uncertainty of never knowing what’s lurking on the other end of your line that makes lake trout fishing so addictive.

In addition to their tyrannous ways, lake trout are truly deep-water dwellers, spending most of the year at depths of between 60 and 200 feet — that’s uncharted territory for most other freshwater fish. And it’s this preference for deep, cold water that keeps lake trout safe from the lines of most fishermen. Only anglers fishing through winter ice, or those fishing from boats equipped with sonar and downriggers, are able to get lures and jigs deep enough to reach lake trout during the summer and winter.

But during the spring and fall months, the tyrant briefly abandons its deepwater haunts and moves within reach of shore fisherman. In early spring at “ice-off,” lake trout move into the shallows to feed and remain there until water temperatures exceed 50 degrees, usually occurring around the second or third week of June at most high-mountain reservoirs. As summer progresses and water temperatures warm, the fish return to deep water and remain off limits to shore anglers until late October, when they come back to the shallows to spawn. Although the window of opportunity is narrow, early spring and late fall is when bait fisherman should fish hard and fish often.

Gearing Up

One of the best things about bait fishing is that it doesn’t require a lot of expensive or sophisticated equipment, and fishing for lake trout is no exception. Chances are, if you are nothing more than a weekend-warrior angler, you already have the necessary rods and reels in your garage to pull off a successful outing.

For lake trout, I prefer medium- to heavy-weight spinning rods. A fairly stiff, 6- to 7-foot rod is ideal to ensure effective hook-setting and to provide enough backbone to land larger fish. Some Mackinaw fishermen prefer huge saltwater surf rods, which allow them to zing bait long distances off shore. Either setup works fine, but I prefer the fun and finesse of using lighter-weight equipment. Medium-size rods cast well and can handle lake trout of all sizes, and playing fish on lighter rods is immensely more enjoyable.

Match the rod to a medium-capacity, open-faced spinning reel spooled with 6- to 12-pound test line. I prefer “clear” fluorocarbon lines, but standard monofilament or braided line like Spiderwire are fine options. Braided line works best when tipped with a 3- to 4-foot monofilament/fluorocarbon leader above the bait hook. The added leader helps conceal the more visible braided line from wary fish.

Regardless of line selection, drag adjustment is critical. The reel’s drag should be set loose enough to allow large fish to strip line from the reel without snapping it. A properly set drag can mean the difference between landing and losing the fish of a lifetime.

Sucker Soaking 101

Because lake trout are predators with a voracious appetite for other fish, one of the most effective baits is whole, dead suckers or sucker meat. Frozen suckers, sold at most bait dealers and sporting goods stores, are convenient and are generally available in a variety of sizes.

When I can find them, I prefer small, 4- to 6-inch minnows or chubs. My favorite technique is to fish these whole, threading a size 5/0 or 6/0 snelled saltwater circle hook through the minnow’s body from head to tail (see photo slideshow below). Once the hook is threaded, I attach the snell (loop end) of the hook to the main line with a snap swivel. The benefit of fishing with whole minnows is that they cast well and sink to the bottom without adding lead weight to the line. This allows the minnow to move naturally in the current, closely mimicking a dead baitfish.

The key to fishing with whole minnows is to keep the bail open on the reel after casting. Most often, lake trout will grab the dead minnow and continue swimming without stopping. Fishing with an open bail allows fish to continue moving without resistance from the rod, line or reel. Here’s how to set this up: Cast the minnow and allow it to sink to the bottom. Once it settles, reel in some of the excess line and remove most of the slack. Then, reopen the bail so the line peels freely from the spool.

Soda Can Strike Indicator

To detect strikes with an open bail, run the loose line around the lip of an empty soda can. The can serves as a strike indicator and topples when a lake trout takes the bait and swims away. To prevent false alarms on a windy day, set a small stone on top of the can to add a small amount of weight. Once a fish grabs the bait, I usually allow it to run for approximately 20 seconds before closing the bail and “setting” the hook. This allows enough time for the lake trout to take hold of the minnow, increasing successful hook-ups, but does not give the fish enough time to completely swallow the bait. On rare occasions, fish may drop the bait before the time has elapsed. If this happens, reel in the line, check the bait and recast. As they say, you win some and lose some.

‘Cutbait’ Night Crawler Rig

A standard bait-rig consisting of a sliding sinker, snap swivel and snelled circle-hook is effective when fishing with pieces of sucker meat.

If sucker minnows are not available, the second-best option is to fish with meat or “cutbait” from larger suckers. When using cutbait, I prefer a traditional night crawler bait rig, equipped with a sliding sinker, snap swivel and larger-size snelled circle hook. It’s important to cut sucker meat into bite-size strips or chunks. Baiting the hook too heavily or with excessively large pieces of meat may obscure the hook point and prevent a clean hook-set. With cutbait, keep the reel’s bail closed and set the hook when a strike is first detected. To spice things up a bit, try adding a night crawler and a salmon egg to sucker meat. I dub this smelly combination “triple delight.” It works great when cutbait by itself isn’t enough to tempt finicky “lakers.”There are some caveats when fishing with sucker meat: Make sure to store suckers in a cooler of ice until you are ready to use them. Once sucker meat gets warm, it turns mushy and falls apart, which makes it nearly impossible to keep on a hook when casting. If frozen, make sure the meat has thawed completely before use. Thawed meat produces a stronger scent, making it more likely to attract fish and it also sinks to the bottom more effectively than bait that’s still partially frozen.

Final Tips

Similar to most other angling or hunting pursuits, lake trout fishing is an early morning endeavor. In both the spring and fall, lake trout are most active in the early morning from sunrise until 12 p.m. Fish continue feeding throughout the day, but generally, fishing past noon is spotty at best.

Before heading to your favorite fishing destination, pay a visit to the area’s sporting goods store. Local shops are a great place to purchase bait and other last-minute supplies. Most importantly, shop owners can provide information to help make your fishing trip more successful. When fishing from shore, it’s helpful to know which areas of a reservoir are most productive. This is particularly important when fishing exceptionally large waters like Granby or Blue Mesa. Shop owners know all the particulars of local waters and are usually more than happy to share “inside” information with their customers.

Even if bait fishing is just not your thing, or it’s been years since you’ve “drowned a worm,” I encourage you to give lake-trout fishing a try. You’ll never have more fun watching a soda can topple and line race from your fishing reel. And who knows? You just might end up catching the fish of a lifetime. Or better yet, you may rediscover those simple, childhood- angling pleasures that got you “hooked” on fishing in the first place.

NOTE: Colorado fishing regulations prohibit the use of live fish as bait east of the Continental Divide above 7,000 feet, and west of the Continental Divide, excluding Navajo Reservoir. Therefore, anglers fishing for lake trout must use previously frozen or packaged baits to ensure compliance with regulations. Colorado Parks and Wildlife encourages anglers to keep smaller-sized lake trout. Check the fishing regulations for bag and possession limits.

Once the heat of summer arrives and mayfly hatches wind down, some anglers believe dry fly fishing opportunities largely disappear. While heavy hatches and water boiling with rising trout may indeed be a memory until next spring, opportunities to find fish feeding near the surface still abound. As temperatures rise, terrestrial activity increases, and it is well known that terrestrials—ants, beetles, crickets, inchworms, and more—offer excellent dry fly opportunities. But taking proper advantage of terrestrial season means covering all your bases, both above and below the water.

Get Them Wet

As noted, it is no secret that terrestrials can offer anglers superb dry fly fishing. What is less known is that terrestrials also offer some of the best subsurface opportunities of the season. Terrestrials are land dwelling insects, which makes them poorly suited for aquatic environments. Although terrestrials can and sometimes do stay afloat when they unintentionally fall into the water, they often become submerged. When a popular food source becomes submerged, the chances that a trout will decide to eat it increase. This is partially because these insects are helpless once they slip below the water’s surface, but also because trout, like most fish, are far more secure feeding when subsurface.

For fly anglers this means carrying—and fishing—both dry and sunken terrestrial patterns. In fact, even though most of what you’ll read or hear about terrestrial fishing focuses on the surface, I feel some of the best opportunities are found deeper in the water column.

Often, the best time to fish submerged terrestrials is when dry fly opportunities are present. At these times, choosing whether to fish a dry or sunken terrestrial pattern can mean deciding whether to catch a fish or two on the surface, or considerably more fish below. While I admit there are times when I prefer the excitement of surface action even if it’s intermittent, equally as often I prefer the more consistent action typical of fishing sunken terrestrials below the surface.

Heat

The hotter the weather (if water temperatures are within ethical limits to target trout) the better the terrestrial fishing will be. Warmer and drier weather not only generates terrestrial activity, it also appears to draw them closer to the streamside, where lush vegetation is in greater supply.

Wind

Warm days with strong winds are also a good time to fish terrestrials, as these winds displace these insects into nearby streams. If you’ve honed your ability to cast in windy conditions, you may also find you’ll have this wind-created “hatch” of beetles, ants, grasshoppers and more all to yourself, as foul weather keeps many anglers at home. Although most terrestrials that have been displaced by the wind will be found closer to the stream bank, your patterns are likely to produce strikes both near and far from the bank. This is especially true on smaller to medium sized streams, where the distance from drifting from bank to mid-stream is smaller than on larger streams and rivers.

Rain

A sudden rain event is another great opportunity for fishing terrestrials. I learned this quickly while fishing in northern Portugal during the 2006 World Fly Fishing Championships. Jorge Pisco, our team’s guide, mentioned that the region we were fishing was subject to afternoon thunderstorms. He then recommended we use larger ant patterns (sunken or floating) immediately after any rainstorm. The river we were fishing had dense vegetation with wide leaves full of ants. When the rain came, it created a slip-and-slide effect, flushing many of the ants into the water. Jorge’s advice turned out to be spot on for that Portugese mountain stream, and I’ve used that same approach with great success any time after a rainstorm appears during a warm day.

B-E Aggressive

Another common sense tip is to be aggressive when casting near brush, vegetation, and other overhanging obstacles. Trout not only use these objects for protection but also as a supply chain of food. And when trout are nestled deep with the comforts of prime lie—an area offering both food and shelter—rarely do they move far for food. This is where you need to present the fly within the trout’s strike zone. A basic rule of thumb is to assume you’re not fishing correctly if you’re not occasionally hanging your fly in the brush and vegetation. Don’t be afraid to lose a fly. Be aggressive.

Two Birds, One Stone

One of my favorite approaches with terrestrial fishing is “killing two birds with one stone,” with a dry-dropper approach. Often, I’ll use a hi-vis foam ant as the dry fly and attach a wet ant off the bend. When fishing shallow riffle water, I’ll use an unweighted ant. If I need to fish deeper, I’ll attach a perdigon-style wet ant. But keep in mind you don’t need to bounce bottom with drowned terrestrials, so my dropper length typically ranges between 1 and 2 feet. Most commonly, I’ll employ this dry-dropper approach when fishing deeper water, where fish are more likely to feed below the surface. When fishing shallow banks with overhanging trees, I usually stick to using a single dry fly.

Think Local

Lastly, pay close attention to what terrestrials are active in the areas you fish. For example, starting around the middle of June, a small green inchworm begins to appear on my home waters. This small, chartreuse worm must be a trout delicacy, as I’ve seen large, seasoned fish move good distances for a fallen inchworm. A small chartreuse foam cylinder tied on a long curved shank hook does a great job imitating a floating worm, while a green weenie works great as a sunken pattern. Any active terrestrials within your area can be imitated with both a floating and sunken pattern, so my advice is to be ready to fish at and below the surface during this summer season.

The difference between a 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotgun lies in the size of the bore, or interior diameter, of the barrel. A 10 gauge shotgun has a larger bore than a 12 gauge shotgun, which means that it is capable of firing larger and heavier shot.

The size of a 10 gauge shotgun barrel will vary depending on the make and model of the gun. However, in general, the bore diameter of a 10 gauge shotgun barrel is approximately 0.775 inches. This is larger than the bore diameter of a 12 gauge shotgun, which is typically around 0.729 inches.

The larger bore diameter of a 10 gauge shotgun allows it to fire larger and heavier shot than a 12 gauge shotgun. This can make it more effective for shooting larger game animals or for shooting at longer distances. However, the larger size and weight of a 10 gauge shotgun can also make it less maneuverable and more difficult to handle for some shooters.

10 gauge shotguns were once popular among hunters and were commonly used for shooting large waterfowl and other game animals. However, they have largely been replaced by 12 gauge shotguns, which offer a good balance of power and versatility.

One of the main differences between 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotguns is the amount of shot they can hold. A 10 gauge shotgun has a larger bore and is therefore able to hold more shot than a 12 gauge shotgun. This can be an advantage when shooting larger or more distant targets, as it allows the shooter to use more shot to increase the chances of a hit.

Another difference between 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotguns is the amount of recoil they produce. Because 10 gauge shotguns are larger and heavier, they tend to produce less recoil than 12 gauge shotguns. This can make them more comfortable to shoot for people who are sensitive to recoil or have smaller frames.

In terms of performance, 10 gauge shotguns are generally considered to be more powerful than 12 gauge shotguns. This is because they are able to fire larger and heavier shot, which can deliver more energy and penetration to the target. However, this added power comes at a cost, as 10 gauge shotguns are typically more expensive and heavier than 12 gauge shotguns.

What is the better for deer hunting?

It is difficult to say which type of shotgun would be better for hunting deer without knowing more about the specific circumstances, such as the type of terrain, the range at which the deer are typically shot, and the type of ammunition that will be used. In general, a 12 gauge shotgun is a more versatile choice for hunting because it can handle a wider range of ammunition and shot sizes than a 10 gauge. However, a 10 gauge shotgun may be a better choice for long-range shooting or for shooting larger shot sizes. Ultimately, the best choice will depend on the individual hunter’s preferences and needs. Here are more helpful tips on buying your first firearm.

The choice between a 10 gauge and 12 gauge shotgun will depend on the intended use and the preferences of the shooter. 10 gauge shotguns are powerful and versatile, but they are also more expensive and heavier than 12 gauge shotguns. On the other hand, 12 gauge shotguns offer a good balance of power and versatility and are suitable for a wide range of hunting and shooting applications.

Whether you are looking to practice target shooting or you want to get into airsoft games, learning more about airsoft guns is an absolute necessity. This guide is here to help you learn more about what airsoft guns are, how they work and what type of model might be right for your needs and preferences.

What is an Airsoft Gun?

Airsoft guns do not shoot traditional bullets; instead, they shoot 6-millimeter pellets, otherwise known simply as “BBs”. Not only do airsoft guns not shoot traditional bullets, but the pellets leave the chamber at a much slower speed than bullets from a standard gun. This means that when airsoft guns are used safely and correctly, getting hit by an airsoft gun pellet should not cause much pain or result in any heavy-bleeding injuries. However, that being said, an airsoft gun is also not a toy. When operating an airsoft gun, you will still need to be mindful of your environment and take the recommended safety precautions. It is also recommended when playing games with airsoft guns that everyone wears the standard protective gear.

What are Airsoft Guns Used For?

Some airsoft guns have been designed to be almost exact replicas of real guns, whereas some operate more like paintball guns. In the same way as the designs of an airsoft gun can differ, so can the intended uses. Some of the most common uses of airsoft guns include:

• Airsoft gun games this is seen as an alternative to paintball and is played throughout the US, Europe, and Asia.
• Some police forces, like the UK police, also use airsoft guns, especially when dealing with large crowds.
• Some people choose to use airsoft guns to deter smaller animals.
• Airsoft guns are also popular with people who are looking for a safe way to practice target shooting.

The Different Types of Airsoft Guns

Some of the most common types of airsoft guns include:

Spring-Powered

Spring-powered is not the strongest form of airsoft gun, but they do provide a superior level of shooter control and accuracy. This type of airsoft gun is viewed as ideal for beginners, there are many affordable options, and they come in a number of different sizes.

Electric Guns

Airsoft electric guns, otherwise known simply as AEGs, are battery-powered; the pellet from these guns is propelled using an electric motor and a gearbox. This type of airsoft gun is extremely modifiable and is one of the most popular forms of airsoft gun, alongside the rifle.

Sniper Rifle

The sniper rifle is the perfect choice of airsoft gun for anyone who is looking to shoot at a long distance. The majority of airsoft sniper rifles work with a spring-power mechanism which allows you to use a significant amount of power in one shot. While the majority of sniper rifles are spring-powered, it is possible to purchase an electric or gas-powered sniper, depending upon your specific needs and preferences.

Shotgun

If you are looking for force rather than distance, then the shotgun might be the perfect choice of airsoft gun for your needs. Many airsoft shotguns have a very similar feel to their more serious counterparts and offer a great spray fire experience. However, they do require close proximity and can be difficult for younger users to pump.

You’ve likely heard of a morel mushroom, but what’s the deal with the “fake” one? And, why does it matter? If you’re new to morel foraging, you’ll want to fully understand all the look-alikes. And, sadly, there isn’t just one. There’s actually several morel look-alikes that are called false morels.

Jump to:

• What Is A False Morel?
• False Morel Mushroom Facts
• How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom
• A False Morel Quiz:
• Be Safe
• Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

What Is A False Morel?

The term “false morel” encompasses a number of different species including Gyromitra esculenta (the beefsteak mushroom), Gyromitra caroliniana, and others in the Verpa and Helvella genera. They are often mistaken for the edible delicacies in the Morchella genus (true morels).

The false morels include some poisonous mushrooms that contain the chemical monomethyl hydrazine (MMH). MMH causes vomiting, dizziness, diarrhea, and sometimes death. Furthermore, MMH is suspected to be carcinogenic. (Read more and, here)

“But wait,” you ask, “haven’t I heard of people eating these mushrooms with no ill effect?”

You probably have. Many people have eaten them and even hunt for them specifically. It may surprise you that Gyromitra esculenta is considered a delicacy in parts of the United States and in parts of Scandinavia. You can buy them in Finland, where they come with preparation instructions.

So what’s the problem? One danger is the varying levels of MMH in different gyromitra mushrooms. Some species contain very little, others contain enough to kill. MMH levels also vary among geographic regions within a single species. Nobody knows how toxic any false morel will be in any location.

Let’s learn more about the fake morel. We’ll start with some facts, move on to identification, and finally take a look at who eats these mushrooms. For a more complete list of straight morel mushroom hunting tips click here.

False Morel Mushroom Facts

• Most gyromitra appear in the spring and summer and grow directly on the ground. Although some are found on wood or later in the year, they are unlikely to be mistaken for true morels.
• Caps are usually brown or reddish-brown and occasionally yellow. Most stems are a light color, ranging from white to tan.
• These mushrooms are considered saprotrophs, meaning they feed on dead and decaying organic matter. Some have suggested that they may be mycorrhizal as well (forming a symbiotic relationship with trees).
• Like true morels, false ones are often found in areas where the forest floor has been disrupted. You’re more likely to see them near washes, rivulets, man-made disturbances in the ground, and roadsides.
• Some species that are considered false are Gyromitra esculenta, Gyromitra caroliniana (above), Gyromitra infula, Verpa bohemica, and Verpa conica.
• There are many common names associated with the more commonly foraged false morels, including beefsteaks and calf’s brain. Beefsteak is also the common name for another edible mushroom, which is VERY confusing. Common names are tricky,; be sure you are firm on your identifications and understanding!

How to Identify the False Morel Mushroom

So how do you tell a true morel from a false one? Observe the following:

• Make note of the cap shape. The false caps that are “wavy” or “lobed”. They appear to be bulging outwards. True morels have a more uniformly shaped cap with pits or ridges. The true morel cap looks like honeycomb with pits angled inwards rather than bulging.
• The cap of the false mushroom hangs freely from the stem. A true morel has a cap that will be attached to the stem. This is not always the case but more often than not it is.
• If you slice an edible morel open from top to bottom it will be hollow inside. A non-edible one will usually be filled with wispy cotton-like fibers or chunks of tissue. (Fabulous example of this on the right).

Go here for a more in-depth article, including a handy chart, on how to tell a true morel mushroom from a false morel.

Always consult a local expert if you’re inexperienced or uncertain. Never eat a mushroom-based solely on mushroom pictures that you’ve seen on the Internet! This goes for ALL mushrooms, not just morels or false morels.

If you feel sick or dizzy after eating what you thought was an edible morel, seek help immediately!

Who’s Eating These Mushrooms….and Why?

The picture at the right shows false morels for sale at a market in Helsinki, Finland. People in other parts of Europe and parts of the United States eat them as well. They often come with warnings and preparation instructions.

While some false morels are prepared simply, others must be boiled 2-3 times to remove toxins before they are safe to eat. Through boiling, the toxins are reduced and the mushrooms become edible. This practice of double (or triple) boiling has been used for centuries to make the mushroom safe to eat.

However, studies show that MMH is a cumulative toxin. This means that its levels will build up in your body after repeated consumption. This could lead to illness or even death. Please, keep that in mind before eating. It may be that there isn’t much of a danger since rarely is a person eating enough of these mushrooms to cause extreme danger, but it’s possible. More studies need to be done with humans first.

Plenty of people eat these for years with no problems. But do you want to risk it? Personally, since no one knows exactly how toxic any given mushroom will be, we think it’s best to just avoid them altogether.

Many gyromitra enthusiasts will disagree, and that’s fine. We always err on the side of caution. The choice is yours, ultimately, so do your research well before eating. There’s a great active community on Facebook called False Morels Demystified which explores eating and safe preparations. They are a wealth of information for the curious.

Humans are typically afraid of bears and for good reason. They are big, loud, powerful, and downright intimidating. Figurately, our fear of bears is not typically warranted because bears pose little threat to us overall. Black bears, which are the most common bears humans tend to come across, are responsible for an average of one human death each year in the United States. Being around bears in the wild is less risky than driving in a vehicle.

The truth is that a bear would rather run away from a human than engage with them. So, if they try to avoid humans, do they do the same with cats? The short answer is yes, bears will almost always ignore or distance themselves from a cat that they might come across. But there is more to the story, so continue reading to find out!

Why Don’t Bears Usually Attack and Eat Cats?

There are multiple reasons that bears are not big threats to cats. First and foremost, cats do not usually reside in areas where bears are found unless they live near the woods or on a rural farm. Secondly, large wild cats have been known to attack bears and win, so bears may be naturally inclined to avoid felines, no matter their size. Cats are typically too fast for bears to catch up with, so they probably could not attack a cat even if they come across one. Chances are that they would run away from a cat that tried to approach them.

Why Would a Bear Attack a Cat?

The biggest reason that a bear might feel the need to attack a cat is if the cat does something that is perceived as threatening, like getting between a mother and her cubs. Trying to take control over a source of food could be another reason for a bear to attack any living creature, even a cat. The threat of danger or control over food would have to seem imminent to get a reaction out of a bear. However, the chance of your cat doing anything to enrage a bear is slim.

Would a Bear Eat a Cat That They Attack?

Bears are omnivores but they eat little meat. Most of their protein comes in the form of fish and small land mammals, like rabbits. So, they may or may not eat a cat that they attack. To them, it would simply be a source of food if they are hungry. If they have recently eaten, they may leave the cat and move on. It all depends on the specific circumstances.

What You Can Do to Enhance Your Cat’s Safety

If you are worried about your cat coming across a bear that could harm them while spending time outside, there are a few things that you can do to help protect them. Start by attaching a large bell on your cat’s collar so they will make constant noise whenever they are moving around outside. This will help ensure that a bear does not get caught off guard and react more intensely than is necessary if your cat goes near them. The noise should also help keep bears from getting too close to your cat.

If bears are commonly seen around your property, it is a good idea to keep an eye on your cat whenever they spend time outdoors. If they tend to wander off on their own, consider using a leash to ensure that you can keep tabs on them. Keep bear spray on hand just in case you come across a bear during your outings, as it will help protect you both and provide you with extra peace of mind.

Summary

Fortunately, we do not have to worry about bears attacking and eating our cats. The chance is extremely low, even when living in “bear country.” However, it is always good to know about the risks of bear attacks on cats and how to minimize those risks. Do you live near bears, or have you ever encountered one close up? If so, we would love for you to tell us about your experiences by leaving a comment.

Related Reads:

• Do Bears Attack and Eat Rabbits?
• 14 Bear Attack Statistics & Facts to Know: How Many Attacks Happen Every Year?
• 12 Canada Bear Attack Statistics & Facts to Know: How Many Attacks Happen Every Year?

Featured Image credit: Pexels from Pixabay

Pheasant back mushrooms (Cerioporus squamosus), also commonly known as Dryad’s Saddle, are a common edible mushroom that’s easy to identify. They used to go by the Latin name Polyporus squamosus, so you might find them in old field guides under that name as well.

Pheasant back mushrooms are large speckled brown mushrooms, with a pattern on the surface that appropriately enough resembles the pattern on a pheasant’s back. The speckles are actually very thin brown scales, and you can gently separate them from the cap if you’re careful.

They’re easy to identify and a perfect wild mushroom for beginners since they don’t have any look-alikes.

Sometimes they’ll go by the name hawks wing mushroom, which again, is because of their feather-like patterning and large size.

They also go by the name of “dryad’s saddle” because they sprout out of trees in a large saddle-shaped shelf, perfect for a wandering dryad (wood nymph) to ride. The mushrooms get big fast, which makes them easy to spot as the saddles protrude conspicuously in the woods.

The trick is, that the best tasting pheasant back mushrooms are the small, delicate ones. Once they’re gigantic like a saddle, they’re tough and unpleasant to eat. At that stage, they make wonderful mushroom broth, but if you want to eat the actual mushrooms you need to find tiny ones.

As luck would have it, there are often several tiny, immature pheasant back mushrooms growing under mature saddle-sized ones, so just flip them over and maybe you’ll get lucky. Ideally, they’re no more than 2 to 3 inches across when harvested.

Larger specimens have a leathery texture, but you can still use them in mushroom powder or soup stock. You can also cut away about an inch of flesh from their leading edge, and that part will still be tender.

Where to find Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Pheasant back mushrooms, like chicken of the woods mushrooms, are prolific decomposers and they’ll sprout in the same spot year after year. Once you’ve found a log that produces pheasant backs, you’ll be able to come every year.

Generally, they produce in the spring months, a few weeks after morels. Here in Vermont, that’s usually the first week of June, but in more reasonable climates it’s late April and May.

We also often get a flush in the Autumn months, so I check my spots twice a year. Often enough I’ll see them sometime in September too. In warm locations, they’ll sometimes fruit as a winter mushroom too.

Look for them on dead and dying trees, particularly elm but often other hardwood species as well, including oak, ash, and maple. They will grow on living trees as a parasite, breaking down the heartwood and eventually killing the tree. More often though, I find them on dead and downed trees as a decomposer.

Stately elms were once a common park and roadside tree, but they’ve been killed off by a number of diseases in the past few decades.

I have a particular elm that I watch each spring. It’s downed by the side of a backcountry dirt road that I often travel, and I can “drive-by forage” with my eyes to see when the pheasant back’s are ready.

When this log in bright sunlight fruits and is large enough to see driving by, it’s too far gone to harvest. That’s not the point. Right by a dusty dirt road isn’t the best place to forage anyway…but it does tell me when to check my woodland spots.

This log heats up quicker in the spring than other locations, and when the pheasant backs are big on it, they’re just about the right size in shady woodland spots (or at the edges of cool parkland spaces).

Identifying Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Once you think you’ve found a dryad’s saddle, identification is pretty simple.

First, you want to look for the distinctive pheasant pattern on the top. That’s probably what drew you to the mushroom in the first place.

Make sure it has a single attachment point to the log, usually a thick round single stem where it sprouts from the wood. Unlike chicken of the woods which grows as a fringe, pheasant backs come out with a stem.

Flip the mushroom over, and you’ll notice honeycomb-shaped pores. When the mushrooms are older, the pores are quite deep and really distinct.

That’s when it’s easiest to see their shape, which isn’t quite exactly like the regimented honeycomb in a beehive. It’s a bit more free form, and the honeycomb shapes are a bit irregular.

Still, it kind of reminds you of honeycomb.

On younger pheasant backs, it’s a bit harder to see.

The pore surface is just starting to develop, and the honeycomb is quite small and not very deep. It almost looks like irregular pinpricks, but if you look closely the holes aren’t round.

They won’t be very deep at this point, less than 1mm. Later they’ll be up to 2- 3 mm deep as the mushroom grows.

The spore print from dryad’s saddle is white, though it’s usually not necessary for identification since it doesn’t really have any close look-alikes.

If you’ve got a dappled, pheasant-colored cap with a honeycomb surface underneath, you’ve got a pheasant back. Simple as that.

Beyond that, the smell is a dead giveaway.

While most mushrooms smell like, well, mushrooms, these have a bright, almost citrus-y cucumber scent. Some people compare its scent to freshly cut watermelon rind. Not the fruit, just the fresh aromatic green smell of the rind.

I know, hard to believe, and often the smell isn’t all that strong in older specimens or intact mushrooms that haven’t been cut. Cut one though, and you’ll smell the cucumber.

Harvesting Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Harvesting is pretty simple, just reach in and gently break the mushroom off of the deadwood. It should come away easily, as my 4-year-old demonstrates below.

You shouldn’t need a knife or any other harvesting tools, but you can use one if that’s your preference. The stalk usually isn’t consumed, it’s only used in stocks because it’s quite tough, even in young pheasant backs.

Feel free to cut it off in the field, or bring it home as I do for other uses.

How to Cook Pheasant Back Mushrooms

Young pheasant backs can be dusted clean, sliced, and sauteed in butter or oil. They have a distinctive, almost acidic flavor that to me tastes like they’ve been splashed with vinegar already.

Add in their cucumber-like smell, and I think they do particularly well in pasta dishes. They’re also good in cold (but cooked) salads, like couscous salad or pasta salad. They add a brightness to the mix, but also the savory umami of any mushroom.

Personally, I think they’re great with minimal preparation. Some people, however, think the pore surface has an awkward texture once cooked. It can be peeled off if you prefer, and once you get started it’ll peel away like an orange peel (or the peel of a puffball mushroom).

You can also use a sharp knife to strip away the pore surface. (Or just leave it on, as I do.)

Some people actually like to just peel pheasant backs altogether, removing both the dappled pheasant cap surface and the pore surface.

That’s actually pretty easy to do, provided you cut the mushroom first.

Simply slice them, and then you can peel away the top surface and the poor surface, as they are distinct layers. (Again, I don’t do this, I eat them whole as is, sliced and cooked. This is a matter of personal preference, and some just don’t like the texture of the surface layers.)

Once sliced and sauteed, you can use pheasant back mushrooms anywhere you’d use sauteed mushrooms. Since I think they taste a bit acidic, as if they’ve already been lightly tossed in vinegar, I think they do especially well with cooked greens.

Last season I paired them with wild asparagus, hosta greens, dandelion greens, and some edible flowers from my yard. It made for a truly spectacular wild foraged lunch with little more than butter and wild vegetables/mushrooms.

Larger pheasant back mushrooms tend to be tough, and don’t taste nearly as good as smaller ones.

If you only find big ones, the best way to use them is in a mushroom stock. Simply simmer them in a bit of water until you’ve extracted their color and flavor, then strain and cook with the broth as you otherwise would use broth.

More the recipe following sort? Here’s a recipe for pheasant back stock.

Pheasant Back Mushroom Recipes

Beyond a simple sautee, or mushroom broth with the larger ones, I’ve also found a number of recipes using dryad’s saddle if you’re feeling adventurous:

• Pheasant Back Mushroom Burgers
• Tempura Fried Pheasant Back Mushrooms
• Stinging Nettle and Pheasant Back Palak Paneer
• Dryad’s Saddle Pickled Mushrooms with Jalapeno and Dill

At this point, I don’t know of anywhere that sells pheasant back mushrooms commercially. You might get lucky and find them at your local farmer’s market, as I sometimes do. They’re often just coming in at the tail end of Morel season here locally.

Mushroom Foraging Guides

Looking for more mushroom foraging guides?

• Morel Mushrooms
• Puffball Mushrooms
• Chanterelle Mushrooms
• Shaggy Mane Mushrooms
• Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Most shooters’ usual perception of air guns is that they’re for target shooting, but hunters have been using these weapons for hunting since the 15th century. During these times, air rifles were expensive and only used by the rich. Over time, technology improved to the point that mass-produced examples are now available to the public at affordable prices.

Today, air guns are still used for hunting, especially for small game. “Small game” refers to animals like ducks, squirrels, turkeys, and many other species. Not all of these creatures are sought after for meat, as some prefer to hunt for sport.

No matter your reason for hunting, it’s best to arm yourself with a reliable air gun. They’re much quieter than unsuppressed firearms and usually less regulated. Some states are more air rifle-friendly, making them a viable choice instead of owning a small-bore hunting rifle.

Below are six of the best air rifles for hunting small game. They possess enough firepower to kill prey ethically, and you can even mount accessories on them. Read on to find out all about them.

Gamo Swarm Fusion 10X Gen2 Multi-Shot Air Rifle .177 Cal, Black

Gamo’s Swarm Fusion 10X Gen 2 Air Rifle is a sleek yet powerful weapon. It can propel .177 caliber pellets at 1,300 FPS, a muzzle velocity sufficient for quick and painless kills. The rifle achieves this via Gamo’s Inert Gas Technology gas piston, a powerful component that doesn’t kick hard.

The rifle has a built-in Whisper Fusion system for less noise when you shoot, forcing the gasses inside chambers that dampen sound.

The internal magazine holds 10 pellets, though you need to break the action open after every shot. Shooting is effortless thanks to a customizable two-stage trigger and recoil-absorbing buttpad. Your shots will only hit where you want them to go.

A 3-9x40mm scope is included in the package, and it will attach to the rifle using 11mm dovetail scope mounts. The rails are also isolated from the gun to reduce scope shaking. If you don’t want to use the scope, the iron sights will work in low-light conditions, perfect for handling pests at night.

The all-weather stock is made of black polymer, a light but durable material that endures field use easily. Its design is ergonomic and molded to fit shoulders.

Specifications

• 1,300 FPS

• .177 caliber pellets

• 10 rounds in the magazine

• Scope included

• Highly customizable

• Break action

Gamo Swarm Maxxim 10X GEN 2 Multi-Shot Air Rifle .177 Cal, Black

Compared to the Gamo Swarm Fusion 10X, the Swarm Maxxim 10X is an older model, the second generation of the first-ever repeating 10-shot air rifle. It’s more affordable than the Fusion, but don’t count this weapon out. You can still shoot very quickly and accurately with it.

The Swarm Maxxim 10X Gen 2 has an upgraded magazine that sits lower to the barrel. It won’t interfere with the optics as a result. As the name suggests, the air rifle holds 10 rounds at most.

Thanks to the Custom Action Trigger, you can adjust the trigger pull’s two stages to your preferences. Doing so allows your finger muscles to shoot without feeling awkward, as everyone has a different comfort zone.

Gamo’s patented Whisper sound dampening technology is also mounted onto the barrel. It will capture the gasses that propel the pellet out, reducing the noise produced. That way, you can hunt without causing a disturbance.

With the help of a recoil-reducing scope rail and rubber buttpad, you can expect to shoot accurately. The included 3-9×40 scope will fit the 11mm dovetail scope mount.

Specifications

• 1,300 FPS

• .177 caliber pellets

• 10 rounds in the magazine

• Scope included

• Highly customizable

• Break action

Crosman Valiant SBD Air Rifle, Nitro Piston Elite .177 cal, Wood

Unlike the two Gamo air rifles above, this Crosman Valiant SBD is a single-shot weapon. It has no magazine for extra shots, meaning you need to reload every time. However, there are advantages to a single-shot gun.

Precision is the main benefit, as repeaters promote rapid fire. Single-shot guns also conserve ammunition and prevent misfires since you can’t stuff more than one into the chamber.

Crosman’s experience with air guns led it to employ a Nitro Gas Piston Elite instead of a steel spring. As a result, it can retain its strength despite staying cocked for hours, and the cocking action is smoother. What’s more, it works perfectly fine in adverse weather.

The Clean Break Trigger on this rifle has two stages when pulling, allowing shooters to pull the trigger slowly for a perfect shot. The stages are also adjustable according to your preferences.

As the rifle is meant for single shots, the barrel is a fine example of engineering. The rifling is precise and optimizes the pellet spin. There are also mounted iron sights on the barrel if you don’t want to use optics.

By default, the package comes with a CenterPoint 4x32mm scope, a fixed zoom optic that mounts onto the 11mm dovetail rail.

Specifications

• 1,400 FPS

• .177 caliber pellets

• Single-shot only

• Scope included

• Wooden stock

• 70% less noise

• Break action

Crosman Shockwave NP QuietFire Air Rifle .22 cal w/lead pellet, Black

Those who want a .22 caliber single-shot air rifle will appreciate this Crosman Shockwave NP QuietFire Air Rifle. It’s painted black, and the polymer furniture is also of the same color. You can use it in any weather conditions due to its polymer stock.

Thanks to the Nitro Piston power plant, this air rifle can deliver performance most springs can’t. Springs can’t deliver 950 FPS after staying cocked for hours, but the Piston can. You’ll also find the weapon easier to cock quickly.

The QuietFire technology mounted on the barrel near the muzzle also helps reduce noise levels. It forces air to pass through two chambers, decreasing sound as it exits them. Thus, you can hunt for small game in larger numbers.

Good hunters know the importance of getting familiar with their weapons, and customization helps them create their perfect rifle. With the two-stage adjustable trigger, anyone can set where each stage is located.

You get a fixed magnification scope that mounts to dovetail rails on top of the bolt with the rifle.

Specifications

• 975 FPS

• .22 caliber pellets

• Single-shot only

• Scope included

• Synthetic stock

• 70% less noise

• Break action

Crosman MAG-Fire Mission Multi-Shot Breakbarrel Air Rifle .22 cal, Black

With this MAG-Fire Mission Air Rifle, hunting down pests and small game won’t be an issue. The magazine contains 10 rounds for this .22 caliber version, and the powerful Nitro Piston Elite propels them at 975 FPS. If there’s more than one animal, the MAG-Fire Mission can hit them all.

Crosman integrated its patented Quietfire technology into the barrel to reduce the rifle’s report. It helps reduce the sound immensely, so the small game doesn’t get startled as frequently. However, it doesn’t suppress the weapon entirely because ammunition is also a factor.

Accuracy is the name of the MAG-Fire Mission’s game. Several of its features are optimized for landing shots exactly where you want them. The rifled steel barrel, 11mm dovetail rail, and 4x32mm scope are all there for precise marksmanship.

That’s not all because you can also adjust the two-stage Clean Break Trigger on the rifle.

Hunting can occur in any location and weather condition, so your air rifle should be capable of withstanding damage. Although wooden stocks are beautiful, they may scratch and crack. In contrast, the thumbhole synthetic stock is ergonomic and lightweight, allowing hunters to carry this rifle for long periods without tiring.

Polymer stocks are also highly resistant to cracking, so you can expect them to stay intact despite some rougher treatment.

Despite this many components, Crosman opted to go for simplicity. The fewer moving parts there are, the lower the chances of malfunctioning.

Specifications

• 975 FPS

• .22 caliber pellets

• 10 rounds in the magazine

• Scope included

• Synthetic stock

• 70% less noise

• Break action

Umarex Hammer .50 cal Air Rifle, OD Green/Black

While .50 caliber air rifles were designed for big game, nothing prevents you from hunting small game with them. However, you do have to be aware that .50 leaves a larger bullet hole in the animal, so it may ruin the meat if you want to eat it. That said, Umarex’s Hammer air rifle is a powerhouse.

You can load this air rifle with heavier slugs and still expect to hit 760 FPS. This velocity might not be much, but the bullet retains more energy than lighter slugs. Thus, it will do extra damage to whatever you’re shooting.

The Hammer has two shots in the magazine, and the PCP tank has enough for three shots at 100%. The fourth shot will reach around 90% of maximum velocity before requiring a gas refill.

Besides the Picatinny top rail, you also have side M-LOK rails for extra accessories like lights and lasers. These help in low-light conditions or for aiming.

The German firearms company Walther manufacturers the barrels on the Umarex Hammer, giving it a 1:24 twist that helps the .50 caliber slug fly true. The barrel will last for years, a testament to German engineering and Walther’s almost 200 years of experience.

Specifications

• 760 FPS

• .50 caliber pellets

• Two rounds in the magazine

• M-LOK rails

• Synthetic stock

• 1:24 twist optimized for .50 caliber slugs

• Straight pull bolt action

Frequently Asked Questions

What pellets are better for small game?

.177 caliber and .22 caliber pellets can work for small game. The former is usually lighter and retains less energy, despite being faster. Therefore, it may not lead to a clean and humane kill in some cases.

In contrast, .22 caliber pellets are generally slower but heavier, retaining more energy despite the lower muzzle velocity. Most people consider it the smallest caliber for hunting small game.

Despite this, it’s possible to hunt for small game with .177 caliber pellets. It takes more practice to nail an ethical kill, but it’s still doable. The caliber is more suited for the smallest of small game and pests.

No matter what rifle you own, make sure it’s powerful enough to take small game down before you go hunting. You don’t want the animal to suffer from a weak shot, so letting them pass on painlessly is the best option.

Can any scope work on an air gun?

No, as spring guns and piston rifles are actually very forceful weapons in terms of recoil and kick compared to firearms. They may damage your scope badly after extended use as the mechanisms produce a lot of vibrations. Therefore, it’s best to mount a dedicated optic on your air rifle for longevity.

Some air guns offset the problem by isolating the rails, but it’s not a foolproof solution. You’ll find air rifle-specific optics much better than a standard rifle scope you mount on your .22 LR plinking rifle.

Despite the magnification, air gun scopes may also be designed to work better at closer ranges. Therefore, they will be easier to sight in after a shooting session. Firearm scopes may not cooperate with the air rifle this way, so their performances can be subpar.

An Alternative Method

Most hunters still prefer using firearms for small game, as cartridges are powerful and easy to obtain. However, air rifle hunting only rose in popularity decades ago, and companies continue to innovate and release better weapons.

It’s possible to grab your air rifle, cock it, and take out the squirrel in your yard without the neighbors finding out. Air gun technology has become advanced to the point that they make very little noise. No one will find out you’re doing pest control on your property.

The air rifles we covered range from repeaters to single-shot guns. Whether you prefer making one precise shot or taking out several creatures, there’s something for everyone here. The rifles are also optimized for hunting, with enough velocity and retained energy to propel projectiles at acceptable speeds.

Air guns are safer in most cases, and they’re often quieter. Hunters prefer their prey to stay close for a shot, so scaring them away is less likely to happen with air rifles. However, consult your local laws before purchasing an air rifle.