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Mathews V3X 33

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With an even longer riser to axle-to-axle ratio than the previous V3 31, the V3X has a two inch increase out to 33in and a brace height increase from 6in out to 6.5in.

The V3X is offered in two axle to axle lengths, 33in for maximum stability and string angle comfort at full draw for longer draw lengths. The 29in, which is sold separately, is tailored towards ultimate agility in tight spaces; the V3X gives hunters a compact rig without compromising Mathews industry leading accuracy.

The V3X 33 sports a 6.5in brace height and delivers speeds up to 336fps. The geometry of the V3 platform opened up a new threshold of capabilities, allowing Mathews to increase the overall riser length while keeping an ultra compact frame with unmatched stability.

Being paired with the 740 harmonic damper for ultimate stealth and Centerguard technology for perfect timing, the V3X gives gave hard core bow hunters more function than ever before. Now with the introduction of the V3X we get to see the most advanced hunting platform Mathews has created.

Centerguard Cable Containment system places the roller guard in the true centre of the bow, resulting in optimal cam timing and a balanced draw cycle to maximise tunability while also adding additional vane clearance.

Extended Bridged Riser – stability is the key to accuracy, taking a strategic approach to the riser design led to a platform that cut weight while maximising length and rigidity in critical areas. The V3X sports the longest riser to axle-to-axle ratio Mathews has ever built.

Limbs and Limb Cups – deflected limbs and past parallel geometry, paired with a redesigned limb cup, cuts weight while increasing performance and efficiency.

Nano 740 Stealth remains a top priority on the V3X. The riser platform and limb geometry also increased cam efficencies and enhanced the effects of 3D damping for less noise and vibration than ever before. The V3X deploys the Nano 740, which is calibrated and tuned to the specific harmonics of this model. The extended position also provides added balance at full draw.

Since its inception SwitchWeight Technology has been extremely convenient and allows shooters not only the ability to change draw length but also peak draw weight in 5 pound increments via the cam’s module instead of changing limbs. Available in 60, 65, 70 and 75 pound peak weights. Each set of modules are programmed for an incredibly smooth draw and maximum efficency. For further customisation, modules are available in 85% let-off. Also comes in 80% let-off which is not a stocked item but can be special ordered. Please enquire.

Silent Connect System is compatible with the V3X. This optional kit enables hunters to attach Mathews genuine bow rope and bow sling in the field quickly and silently.

Specs at a glance

IBO Speed up to 336 fpsWeight ranges 60lbs, 65lbs, 70lbs, 75 lbs. Please specify weight required. All bows are adjustable 10lbs down from the peak draw weightDraw length range 27.5in-31.5in. Please specify draw lengthBrace Height 6.5inAxle to Axle 33inMass weight 4.67lbsLet-Off 85% standard. Also comes in 80% let-off which is not a stocked item but can be special ordered. Please enquire. Switchweight modules for the ultimate ease in changing the bow’s peak weightMathews genuine bowstrings and cablesExtended bridge riserCenterguard Cable Containment system3D Damping TechnologyAvailable in Right Hand and Left Hand. Please specify RH or LHMade in USA

How to Trap A Muskrat? Best Bait and Muskrat Trapping Tips

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How to Trap A Muskrat

Muskrats are interesting animals that have the ability to live on land and in water, (although they prefer water) and also build dams underwater leading to the surface. These intricate burrows can be highly destructive to residential properties, so I can understand why you want them gone.

If you want to trap a muskrat that is becoming a nuisance in your area, here’s what you do:

  1. Choose the proper trap: you have three choices
    • Leg trap
    • Body grip
    • Live trap
  2. Decide where to place the trap:
    • Along their muskrat run (their underwater path to dry land), or
    • Near their burrow entrance
  3. Bait the trap
    • Use a root vegetables like potato, or crunchy fruit like an apple
    • Position the bait in the center of the trap to avoid the animal reaching in and grabbing it.
  4. Set the trap
    • The trap door should be open, and facing the burrow entrance or muskrat run
    • Make sure no debris is blocking the door from closing, and nothing is jamming the trigger.
  5. Check the trap: peek in about every couple of hours to see if you successfully captured the animal.
  6. Yay, you’ve caught the muskrat!
    • Calmly approach the cage or trap
    • Place a sheet on the cage to keep the animal calm
    • (If it’s legal) transport the animal between five and ten miles away from your home, or call Animal Control for proper pick-up and relocation.

Muskrats tend to stay to themselves and avoid human contact. But how can we avoid them if they are causing property damage, or creating a disturbance to our local ecosystem? This may be the case for you, and there are some key features about muskrats that you should know before attempting to trap one.

What Is The Best Bait To Trap Muskrats?

Occasionally during the winter, they will eat crayfish, snails, mussels, frogs, insects, and slow-moving fish; but muskrats are predominantly omnivores, and love to feast on plants and vegetation. Because of the strength and sharpness of their teeth, Muskrats favorite foods tend to be starchy foods or simple plants like:

  • Apples
  • Carrots
  • Water Lilies
  • Sledges
  • Cattails
  • Clover
  • Switchgrass
  • Wild rice
  • Arrow head
  • Parsnip

The musk of another muskrat is also another option as bait. It’s not the best choice because it will attract the same problem that you’re trying to get rid of, but it’s still an option.

Even certain scents like oil of Anise is a great attractant for muskrats. The goal when baiting is to use the correct bait to lure the muskrat completely into the cage. So whatever you see or notice the muskrat eating, use that as your primary bait. If you’re not sure, this list of goods should do the trick.

Want more tips for best bait practices? No problem!

  • Create a small trail of bait that will lead to the inside of the cage.
  • Place a heavy object on top of the cage to keep it from being knocked over by the elements, or another animal.
  • Be sure that the bait is positioned well, and will not lodge between the door, or jam the trigger.

What Is The Best Way To Catch A Muskrat?

The best way to catch a muskrat is by trapping them with either a live or lethal cage. Muskrats are semi-aquatic animals, and spend the majority of their time in water, traveling back and forth between rivers and the land.

Use these tactics to successfully capture your pesky muskrat

Pick Your Trap

You have three different choices: a leg trap, body trap, or live cage.

    1. Leg trap: a circular device that closes shut on the animals’ foot when it passes over it.
    2. Body trap: a large flat trap that crushes the muskrat as soon as it’s in the center of the trap.
    3. Live trap: a self-closing cage with either one or two doors for easy access

* Both a leg and body traps are lethal *

Determine the Trap’s Placement

Here are two prime choices

    1. Set it along the travel path of the muskrat, on a bank or the perimeter of a waterway.
    2. Place it a couple of feet away from their burrow entrance (a hole with mud in front of it, or surrounding it.) This option is easier to set up.

Bait Your Trap

    1. Use crunchy or starchy vegetables and fruit. A few examples include:
      • Apples
      • Parsnip

Fully Set Your Trap

    1. First, place your trap at the beginning or end of the slide set, or trail, of the muskrat
    2. The cage should be parallel with the width of the trail
    3. Open the cage door
    4. Bait the trap with the muskrat’s favorite food. Use string to hold the bait on the cage (if the cage is submerged in water.)
    5. To trap a muskrat underwater, fully submerge the trap two-to-three inches under the water, near the entrance of their slide, to stealthily disguise the cage. Use a piece of string and a weight to hold the cage beneath the water
    6. Check periodically on the cage and animal. Muskrats can become anxious if trapped for too long, thus, making them more aggressive towards you when you approach them.
  • Congratulations, your muskrat is successfully caught!
    1. Now place a sheet or blanket over the cage to keep the animal calm.
  • Once the muskrat is captured, you have two options for relocation:
    1. Transport the muskrat to a woodland area with lots of food, moisture, and a body of water (check with your local laws to see if this action is legal.)
    2. If it is illegal to transport the animal yourself, simply contact Animal Control, and they will be there to permanently rid you of your muskrat issue.

As previously mentioned, muskrats spend a lot of time in the water, so there may be a chance that you’ll end up with an aquatic trap. There are many entrapments that are available specifically for water-based muskrat sets.

How Do You Scare Away A Muskrat?

You tried baiting it…that didn’t work. Maybe you baited it well, and the mangy muskrat keeps taking the bait. When all else fails, scaring it away can work just as well as a trap or bait. But what are some muskrat repellents that actually work?

Alter Water Levels

If there isn’t enough water, muskrats cannot build their dams nor create proper burrows and den. Presuming you have control over the water level in your pond, draw the water level down to at least two feet below the normal standard.

If the pond is near your home, but you have no control over the water level, the next scare tactic is for you

Fencing

Create a fence around the areas that you want protected. Muskrats are swimmers, not climbers, so a fence is a great solution for keeping them out of ponds and waterways. Here are some tips:

  • The fence must surround the entire perimeter of the body of water in order to keep the muskrat completely out.
  • Since the fence will most likely go into the water, use post material that won’t erode quickly, like a metal T-post.
  • The best material to use for fencing out a muskrat is 1-inch hardwire mesh. Chicken wire is too thin, and the muskrat will most likely chew through it.
  • Place the posts at least three feet beneath the water to avoid burrowing, and at least one foot above the surface.

Although indiscreet, and sort of intrusive, creating a fence to protect your property is a safe and humane way of deterring a muskrat.

Electronic Repellents

Electronic repellents are best used after all of the muskrats have been collected and transported elsewhere. So once you’ve captured the nuisance, try setting up a repellent device to deter other muskrats from making the same mistake as the one you just trapped.

Consensus shows that the best electronic device to consider is a motion-activated sprinkler that quickly shoots out burst of water, which will ironically scare the muskrat out of your yard or garden.

The general instructions for setting up an motion-activated sensor:

  • Place each device about 30-35 feet away from each other
  • Position the sprinklers around the shoreline to deter the muskrats from entering the water
  • Point the motion sensor outward so it can detect upcoming invaders

Reduce Attracts

Such a simple solution, isn’t it? Getting rid of what makes the muskrats appear is one of the most significant, and cost-efficient ways to keep muskrats away. Muskrats love aquatic vegetation, which is another reason as to why they spend so much time submerged beneath the surface.

When reducing attracts, place emphasis on these treats:

  • Pond weeds
  • Arrowheads
  • Willow
  • Water lilies
  • Ferns
  • Cattails
  • Sedges
  • Rushes

By decreasing these attracts, they will have less of a reason to show up in your yard or pond; thus, creating less of a muskrat problem for you.

Predators

Although a tricky option, providing the muskrat with a predator will definitely scare it away from your property. Luckily, they have plenty of predators to choose from. Here’s a few:

  • Snapping turtle (best option because it’s an aquatic animal)
  • Weasels
  • Otters
  • Fox
  • Coyote

These are the most prominent muskrat predators that can get the job done.

Flipside to the coin: using a predator to successfully deter the muskrat away could cause another problem…the predator then becomes a pest, and you now have to get them out too!

Although an option, I don’t recommend it as an efficient solution.

Do Muskrats Bite?

Yes, biting is their number one form of defense. When an animal or human is too close to the muskrat, or makes it feel pressured and threatened, they are known to become physically assertive in order to defend their lives.

Fun Fact! Despite their smaller stature, they are well equipped and strategic enough to fight a dog, and win! There have been several cases of muskrat bites reported to Animal Control over the years.

You want to take real caution when attempting to handle a muskrat because muskrats are known to carry disease. They eat and drink directly from the earth; and the earth is filled with animal feces, urine, and animal hairs, which is how they obtain most of these diseases.

And yes, Rabies, is one of the diseases that muskrats carry.

These bacteria are usually spread via biological fluid like blood or saliva. Which is why it is imperative to take precautions when caging a muskrat. Be sure to wear heavy-duty gloves, and cover the trap with blanket once the animal is caught. It will keep them calm enough to not try and strike you.

Are Muskrats Aggressive?

Yes, muskrats are aggressive. As stated earlier, muskrats do what they must to refrain from contact with any predators, including humans. So when they are approached by one, they are known to become feisty, and will use their body as a weapon of defense.

Although one of their primary tools for fighting is escape, if that doesn’t work, muskrats will use their sharp claws that they use for burrowing, to dig and scratch at you. Their nails are pointy and slender, about an inch long, which is perfect to create a clean cut that will draw blood, if successful.

Most attacks are due to a predator trying to invade their burrows. They are very territorial animals.

Muskrats also become aggressive during their time of gestation. Because the mother is pregnant, she becomes irritable due to hormonal fluctuation. They are monogamous creatures, and the male will become very assertive if you try to harm its mate and babies.

Are Muskrats Afraid Of Humans?

Well, there are two sides to this coin. No, muskrats are not afraid of humans; however, we can scare them.

Heads: they are not afraid of humans. Muskrats spend their days eating, and building dams and burrows. At no point in time does a human cross their minds because we are not a daily part of their routine. So since we’re not their mind, they are not concerned about our well-being.

Tails: humans certainly do scare muskrats. The animals are natural-born eco-architects, and have no intentional means to cause harm. Although unintentional, their organic habit of eating vegetation, developing underground canals, and building dams causes a disruption in our human environment.

Because of the significant damage that they can cause to our crops, water lines, and property foundation, we humans tend to prey on these animals by killing them, or causing disturbance to their livelihood.

Did you know that there is a muskrat trapping season in Connecticut?

Imagine if there were a trapping season for humans? That would scare us, big time. Muskrats can become very defensive when it comes to humans, which is why it’s important to keep calm while approaching the caged muskrat. Limiting physical harm is the goal during capture and transfer.

Do Muskrats Attack Humans?

Yes, muskrats will attack a human, if they are provoked. Muskrats care about all of the work that they put into their burrows, canals, and dams, and will defend it at all cost. The most prominent reason for a muskrat attacking you is home invasion.

Excess heat can also be a determining factor of whether or not a muskrat will attack you. On very hot days, a muskrats’ body temperature can raise almost a little higher than a human, which is another reason as to why they love the water so much. But just like we get irritable, so will they.

With that being said, trapping your muskrat will definitely become a problem for them, and they will most likely attack you with a swipe of their claws, or a bite with their strong incisors. To protect yourself while trapping, wear heavy-duty gloves, and maybe even pants and a long-sleeve shirt to combat against scratches and bites, and prevent possible infection.

Do Muskrats Chew Wood?

Muskrats mostly chew on food that they will actually ingest, like aquatic vegetation, fruits, and vegetables, but not necessarily wood. People have the misconception that muskrats chew on wood because they swim and build lodges and dams, and are probably mistaking the muskerat for a beaver.

They have been known to have sticks in their mouth, or simply sit around a group of wood. That’s their building material for their new home (hopefully not in your backyard.) They stack the pieces of wood together to build an elevated mound to protect their hole, and to defend themselves against predators.

Can Muskrats Run Fast?

No, muskrats are not fast runners; however, they can run, and are quite agile.

This is good news! Now you know you won’t have to expend too much effort to catch it! Muskrats have very little feet with long nails attached to them. This feature is great for defense, and gripping the ground for cutting corners, but slows down the animal at the same time.

Another reason for their lack of running is due to their excessive swimming. Muskrats spend most of the day in marshes and other typical bodies of water. They are amazing swimmers, and their legs suffer from that because they don’t get used very often on land.

In addition, when a muskrat does have to run – from something trying to trap capture it – it simply scurries into the water and submerges itself as deep as it can go. Therefore, running on land is possible, but not the strongest feature for any muskrat

How Long Can Muskrats Stay Underwater?

Land may be a secondary environment for these animals, but they thrive in the water. Muskrats are capable of staying submerged underwater for about 20 minutes! Contrary to popular belief, they do not have gills, and cannot breathe underwater, they simply hold their breath!

They are capable of staying underwater for so long for several reasons.

First, they have flaps over their nose, mouth, and ears to protect the orifices from filling up with water. Next, their body is designed to handle a build-up of carbon dioxide, the particle that we breathe out when we exhale. They also have a membrane in front of their eyes that closes, and protects them when they go into the water.

They get a lot of practice swimming around, considering that they start swimming a couple of weeks after birth. Swimming helps them to develop their webbed feet that they use to push themselves through their wet home, and makes their tail stronger by using it as a rudder. Because of their strength, they can swim beneath the surface at speeds reaching approximately three miles an hour.

Fun fact! Did you know that muskrats can swim backwards?!

Are Muskrats Blind?

At birth, yes they are. Newborn muskrats are born blind, and stay blind until about two week after birth. Muskrats have the typical vision of any animal; however, their vision during the day is probably not as good at night.

Muskrats are nocturnal animals, meaning that they are most active between the hours of dawn and dusk. Because they are so used to roaming and eating during the dark hours, their eyes adjust to it without a problem.

The problem occurs during the day time. Although they may occasionally go out during daylight – for a meal or to escape a predator – they refrain from it as much as possible. The eyes are set for very little light, and the sun tends to conflict with their vision.

This fact makes them easy targets for predators like you and me to capture them when they least expect it! This conflict will cause them to run back to darkened areas such as underwater, or their burrow. With that being said, the best time to check your trap for your captured muskrat is within the hour of dawn and dusk, or simply at night.

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Thank you for reading this post. We hope you found it helpful.

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You're Dead: 5 Best Marksman Rifles on the Planet

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The designated marksman rifle is becoming increasingly popular in recent years.

The United States is purchasing more of them through the Army’s Compact Semi-Automatic Sniper System (CSASS) program. Also, in a recent reform of infantry equipment, the British Army announced that it would be ditching its version of the M249 SAW, the L110 Minimi, and buying more L129A1 designated marksman rifles.

What rifles could be considered the best for this role?

1. Knight’s Armament Company M110

While the M110 was originally procured as a semi-automatic replacement for the M24 sniper rifle by the U.S. Army, it has been used successfully in the designated marksman role as well. In USMC service, it replaced the M39 EMR and M14 DMR as a designated marksman rifle, both variants of the original M14. In Army service, it replaced various versions of the M14 EBR.

Based on one of Eugene Stoner’s last designs when he worked for Knight’s Armament Company (KAC), the SR-25. The SR-25 (Stoner Rifle 25) is an update of the original AR-10 updated with elements of the AR-15, hence the “25” in the name is based on adding the 10 and 15.

At the time of adoption, the M110 featured advanced ergonomics for an AR rifle. It had an ambidextrous bolt catch and safety for ease of off-hand manipulation and faster reloads.

While the M110 is said to be on the chopping block to be replaced by the new H&K CSASS, U.S. Special Operation Command’s recent adoption of the 6.5 Creedmoor as a long distance round may extend the service of the M110. Versions of the M110 chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor were tested as SOCOM’s next DMR/sniper rifle in March 2018.

2. H&K SDM-R (M110A1 CSASS)

While the M110 was a successful program, the U.S. Army wanted a smaller and lighter version to be easier to carry and fit in with squad more. The procurement of a M110 replacement was run under the moniker of M110A1 Compact Semi Automatic Sniper System (CSASS). While KAC submitted a shortened version of the M110, the H&K G28 (a variant of the HK417) won the contract.

While the original M110 was used in both the designated marksman and sniper roles, the Army decided to split the CSASS program into two different rifles, the CSASS meant for snipers and the SDM-R meant for designated marksmen.

The difference between the CSASS and the SDM-R is in the type of ammunition they are meant to use and the scopes mounted on the rifle. The CSASS mounts a 3-20x Schmidt and Bender optic and is optimized for M118LR sniper ammunition. The SDM-R mounts a 1-6x Sig Tango Low Power Variable Optic (LPVO) and is optimized for the use of standard M80A1 ammunition. The 1-6 Sig Tango features an integrated bullet-drop compensating reticle that allows for faster, albeit less precise shots, as the scope isn’t meant to be “dialed” in like the more powerful Schmidt and Bender optic.

3. SVD

While old and obsolete compared to most other rifles on this list, the Soviet SVD can be considered the original designated marksman rifle. While the name includes “снайперская винтовка,” which literally means “sniper rifle,” the Soviet conception of sniping is far closer to the Western designated marksman than the Western sniper.

The SVD has proven itself to be reliable, rugged, and accurate since its adoption in the 1960s. The PSO-1 scope was the best designated marksman scope in the world when adopted, featuring a ballistically matched elevation adjustment out to one thousand kilometers, and a simple windage adjustment. In contrast, most western scopes were set to a fixed zero at the time. It also featured an advanced infrared light detector, although this feature began to be of dubious utility as the West phased out infrared spotlights on their night vision equipment.

The SVD continues to see use in many countries around the world today.

4. L129A1

Like the M110, the L129A1 is a variant of the AR-10 meant for use as a designated marksman rifle. However, the design features custom upper and lower receivers made by Lewis Machine and Tool (LMT). During British trials for a designated marksman rifle, the L129 beat out the FN SCAR, other AR-10 offerings (albeit, not one from KAC) and the HK417.

The L129A1 proved wildly popular with British troops in Iraq and Afghanistan, being one of the highest rated weapons used by troops. It’s one of the only Urgent Operational Request (UOR) weapons from Iraq and Afghanistan that has outlived its temporary nature and has gone onto be an integral part of the British rifle squad.

5. FN SCAR

The FN SCAR has also seen significant use in designated marksman roles across various militaries. While FN offers specialized sniper variants of the SCAR, the common standard length SCAR has found to be suitable to performing designated marksman roles.

In American service, only SOCOM uses the SCAR in a designated marksman-type role. In SOCOM usage, the SCAR is usually topped with a 1x/6x or 1x/4x ELCAN optic, which feature bullet drop compensating reticles.

Like the M110, the SCAR was tested in 6.5 Creedmoor as a potential candidate to become SOCOM’s next semi-automatic sniper/designated marksman rifle.

Charlie Gao studied Political and Computer Science at Grinnell College and is a frequent commentator on defense and national security issues.

Image: Wikimedia Commons

Tennessee Turkey Season 2024: Complete Hunting Guide – Dates, Bags & Regulation!

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The Tennessee turkey hunting season is almost approaching, and hunters are preparing for an exciting and fulfilling day in nature. The Tennessee Fish and Wildlife Commission changed the season, so hunters must be informed of the new rules if they want to help protect the wild turkey population in the state. The modifications include a later start date, a smaller bag limit, and limitations on when birds may be collected. Despite these modifications, hunters can still anticipate a thrilling season filled with chances to put their abilities to the test and forge relationships with the natural world. This article will examine the seasons, permits, bag restrictions, and other rules for a productive turkey hunting season.

Tennessee Turkey Season 2024

A few changes will be made to Tennessee’s next spring turkey shooting season in 2024 to help the state’s wild turkey population. The season will begin two weeks later than in prior years, and the bag limit has been decreased from three to two birds. The fact that just one of such birds may be captured during the first seven days of the season should also be noted by hunters. The regular season will start the next month and last until the month after the Young Sportsman Hunt, which will take place statewide in that month. With these changes, hunters will be able to enjoy the thrill of turkey hunting while also helping protect the state’s wild turkey population.

TN Spring Turkey Season

Spring Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd Date Young Sportsman8-Apr-239-Apr-23 Shotgun/Archery15-Apr28-May-23

TN Fall Turkey Season

Fall Turkey SeasonStart DateEnd Date Archery24-Sep28-Oct Archery31-Oct4-Nov Shotgun/Archery15-Oct28-Oct

Bag Limits

TN Turkey SeasonBag Limit Spring1 bearded turkey per day Fall1 bearded turkey per county

Bag Restrictions

Spring Turkey: Hunters may take one bearded turkey every day during the spring turkey season, with two bearded turkeys taken throughout the whole hunting period. Only one of the two turkeys, however, can be a Jake. (a male turkey with a beard shorter than 6 inches). The presence of white banding on the wing feathers, tail feathers the same length, a beard longer than 6 inches, or spurs that are at least 1/2 inch long are indicators of an adult gobbler that is legal to harvest. It’s crucial to remember that every turkey taken during the Young Sportsman Hunt counts against the two-turkey quota for the spring season.

Fall Season: In the counties of Bledsoe, Bradley, Crockett, Dyer, Giles, Haywood, Lake, Lauderdale, Lawrence, Lincoln, Loudon, McMinn, Monroe, Polk, Shelby, Tipton, Unicoi, and Wayne, hunting for turkeys in the fall is not permitted.

Turkey Licenses

In Tennessee, you must possess a Sportsman or Hunting and Fishing Combination license and a supplementary license, which varies depending on the hunting gear you use. The complete list of turkey hunting permits is available on the tn.gov website.

Hunting Regulations

  • Tennessee’s spring statewide turkey season allows shotguns with No. 4 shot or smaller, longbows, recurve bows, compound bows, and crossbows. Night vision, infrared, and other artificial light equipment are restricted; however, scopes are permitted. During the season, hunters may utilize Airbows to fire arrows.
  • Hunting is only permitted from 30 minutes before dawn until legal dusk.
  • Turkey’s hunting prohibits rifles, pistols, electronic calls, live decoys, and ammunition bigger than No. 4 shot. Baiting is prohibited. Dyer, Haywood, Lauderdale, Obion, Shelby, and Tipton restrict boat-based turkey hunting. The General Regulations list forbidden activities.
  • Tennessee spring turkey hunting has these restrictions. A licensed hunter may help a permit holder but cannot have turkey hunting firearms. A 21-year-old non-hunting adult must accompany young Sportsman Hunt participants. Public land-hunted turkeys count against statewide bag limits and must be intact until tagged and turned in. WMAs prohibit turkey farming.
  • Some Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) limit turkey hunting dates or quotas. All WMAs restrict turkey calling from March 1 until spring turkey hunts.
  • An adult gobbler must have one of these: a beard longer than 6 inches, equal-length tail feathers, a spur at least 1/2 inch long, or wing feathers with white barring to the tip.

FAQs related to Tennessee Turkey Hunting Season

Art Lander’s Outdoors: Ky’s 2022-23 deer season begins Saturday with opening of archery season

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Kentucky’s 2022-23 white-tailed deer season opens Saturday, with the start of archery season. The 136-day season continues through January 16.

The outlook for the 2022-23 deer season is upbeat.

“I think we’ll have a good season,” said Deer Program Coordinator Noelle Thompson. “We’re hoping for good hunting weather. We don’t have CWD (Chronic Wasting Disease) in Kentucky and have set up a surveillance zone.”

Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Surveillance Zone

New this season is a Chronic Wasting Disease (CWD) Surveillance Zone in five counties in the Jackson Purchase — Calloway, Fulton, Graves, Hickman and Marshall Counties — and special regulations have been established.

CWD is a fatal, neurological illness occurring in North American cervids, members of the deer family, including deer, elk, and moose.

Since its discovery in 1967, CWD has spread geographically and increased in prevalence locally. CWD is contagious and transmitted freely within and among cervid populations. No treatments or vaccines are currently available.

Of great concern to wildlife managers and the hunting community, CWD has been detected in at least 23 states, and two Canadian provinces, but does not infect livestock or humans. CWD is transmitted directly through animal-to-animal contact, and indirectly through contact with objects or environments contaminated with infectious material, including saliva, urine, feces, and carcasses of CWD-infected animals.

CWD has not been found in Kentucky, but has been detected nearby in western Tennessee.

Special regulations in Kentucky’s CWD Surveillance Zone include:

For the complete CWD Surveillance Zone regulations consult page 13 of 2022-23 Kentucky Hunting and Trapping Guide.

Kentucky deer population dynamics

The 2021-22 Kentucky White-tailed Deer Harvest and Population Report stated that “Overall, the statewide deer population estimate shows a stable to slightly decreasing trend. The 2021 statewide estimate was 919,308 deer at the start of the 2021-22 hunting season, (which is) less than 1 percent below the 10-year average.”

Zone 1 counties have the highest deer densities in the state, are considered reduction zones, with an unlimited bag limit on antlerless deer.

At the other end of the spectrum the Zone 4 counties have the lowest deer densities, and antlerless deer harvest opportunities are very limited.

The Zone 2 and Zone 3 counties are at or near population goals.

Weather influenced last season’s deer harvest

The total number of deer harvested during the 2021-22 deer season was 132,328, which is the ninth highest harvest on record, but a 6.56 percent decrease from the 2020-21 season harvest of 141,620, and 5.6 percent below the 10-year average of 140,129.

Weather played a big role in the harvest decline last season.

During the months of October and November there were several days of warmer than normal weather and rain. In December there was a record-breaking weather event, a widespread tornado outbreak.

All these factors contributed to the lower than expected deer harvest for the overall season, but in January the harvest was the highest on record for the month, 3,788.

Highlights from last season’s deer harvest

Here’s some deer harvest highlights from last season that are relevant going forward:

• The total antlered deer harvest was 68,035; 70.6 percent of which were adult males, 19.8 percent yearling males and 9.5 percent male fawns. It was the sixth highest antlered buck harvest on record.

The top three counties with highest antlered deer harvest per square mile of habitat were: Anderson County, 4.5 antlered deer/square mile; Pendleton County, 4.4 antlered deer/square mile, and Bracken County, 4.3 antlered deer/square mile.

The antlered buck harvest in Fayette County was 0.6 antlered deer/square mile, the lowest of all 120 Kentucky counties, according to the report.

Kentucky ranks in the top five for all time, in the Boone and Crockett Club record books.

• The total number of female deer harvested was 57,126, which is 11.6 percent lower than the 2020-21 season. However, the percentage of female deer harvested has been relatively stable over the last decade.

• Harvest by weapon type: archery, 14,869 deer; crossbow, 12,202 deer; modern firearm, 96,370 deer, and muzzleloader, 9,245 deer.

Kentucky 2022-23 deer season dates

For this upcoming season there are no changes to the zone status of Kentucky’s 120 counties, season lengths or bag limits.

There are 51 Zone one counties, 34 Zone two counties, 13 Zone three counties and 22 Zone four counties.

Deer season regulations

The complete regulations for the 2022-23 Kentucky deer season are available online at fw.ky.gov.

Deer season is a celebration of Kentucky’s wildlife bounty of quality antlered bucks and deer in abundance statewide. Start planning your hunts now.

How to Wet Age Venison

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How to Wet Age Venison

After wet aging your deer, cook it into something delicious, such as this venison eye of round with elderberry pan sauce. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley)

Dry aging may be getting all the attention, but don’t overlook wet aging as a way to tenderize and bring out more flavor in venison. In fact, most grocery store meat has been wet aged, and you can use the same technique on deer. I find that just a few days can help make a difference.

Benefits of Wet Aging

Aging is the process in which the natural enzymes in an animal’s muscles break down connective tissues; this helps to tenderize the meat and develop its flavors. While you won’t get the intense flavors characteristic in dry aging, there are other benefits to wet aging.

  • Wet-aged meat does not lose moisture and there is no rind to trim off, therefore resulting in no loss of weight and meat.
  • Dry aging should be done with primal cuts only, while wet aging allows for cuts of any size.
  • Wet aging does not require any special equipment – a cold refrigerator, refrigerator thermometer and vacuum sealer are all you need.
  • Takes up less space than dry aging.
  • Can be done after the meat has been frozen.
  • The entire animal does not have to be wet aged all at once. Thaw out meat and wet age as you plan your meals.
  • While wet aging does not concentrate flavors, it does help to tenderize and bring out delicate flavors that has yet to develop in freshly killed venison.
refrigerator thermometer
Use a refrigerator thermometer and place it on the shelf where you plan on wet aging meat. Refrigerators may not cool accurately. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley)

Cons of Wet Aging

  • You cannot wet age meat for nearly as long as you can dry age meat. The moist environment in wet aging will eventually turn to rot.
  • There is no moisture loss in wet aging, therefore no flavor concentration.
  • Mold is not a factor in wet aging, which is credited for bringing out nutty, cheesy notes possible in dry aging.

Prepping Venison for Wet Aging

Before aging meat, be sure to follow best practices for handling meat in the field. Because aging requires you to hold meat at temperatures above freezing, any cross-contamination can quickly turn into unwanted bacterial growth.

Remember to use clean tools and keep the meat away from dirt and debris. Also, avoid cutting into any scent glands and puncturing intestinal organs. Keep the meat cool at all times.

If you accidentally make a gut shot, use two sets of gloves and knives: one set to handle meat that you suspect may have come into contact with gut material and the other to handle meat you are positive did not. Keep both piles of meat separate to avoid cross-contamination. Only age meat that you know, without a doubt, did not come into contact with intestinal content.

Cuts to Wet Age

Cuts of venison used for grinding or stew do not benefit from aging. Freeze and use these cuts as usual.

For cuts that you plan on searing, grilling, sautéing or smoking, wet aging can be useful. The cuts I recommend for wet aging are the tenderloin, backstrap, bottom round, top round, eye of round and in younger animals (under 2½ years old), the sirloin tip.

venison tenderloin
Already tender, the tenderloin, or inside strap, only need a few days of wet aging to improve its flavor. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley)

Vacuum Sealing

Vacuum-sealed bags keep out oxygen, which slows down bacterial growth and prevents discoloration on meat. These bags also hold in the meat’s juices, which contains enzymes that will help break down the meat, thus tenderizing it.

Before you start vacuum-sealing meat, make sure there are no stray deer hairs or debris on the meat. If the meat is wet, pat it dry with paper towels—excessively wet meat will not vacuum seal correctly. Next, break down meat according to how much you and your family can eat in one sitting, and then vacuum seal into individual packages. At this point, freeze to wet age later or wet age all of the packages now.

packaged venison
To wet age venison, vacuum seal meat and store it in the refrigerator for several days to several weeks. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley)

To Wet Age

Buy a refrigerator thermometer to make sure your fridge is cooling accurately. Adjust the temperature to somewhere above 32 but below 40 degrees Fahrenheit—I shoot for 35 degrees. Place desired vacuumed-sealed packets of venison on the lowest – coldest – shelf, and leave it alone for a few days to as long as 3 weeks.

Tenderloins: How long you wet age meat will depend on the cut and your taste. Located inside the body cavity and just underneath the rib bones, the tenderloins do little work and therefore come out tender already. I mostly wet age tenderloins for flavor rather than texture; three to four days will usually suffice.

Loins: For backstraps, wet aging time is determined by the age of the deer. If the loin came from a doe or young buck, I shoot for at least five days to a week of wet aging. For older deer, I recommend two weeks. You could wet age the backstraps longer, but being an already tender cut, you could risk the meat becoming mushy. Again, it depends on personal preference, so experiment to see what works best for you.

deer venison hindquarters
The bottom round, top round and eye of round in a deer’s hindquarters are good candidates for wet aging. (Photo courtesy of Jenny Nguyen-Wheatley)

Rounds: The cuts that may benefit from longer wet aging are those from the hindquarters of the deer, including the rounds and sirloin tip. On a 1½-year-old deer, you may not have to wet age long at all – perhaps a week. On older deer, I would shoot for 2 weeks. On mature bucks – I typically turn these animals into hamburger, but if you want to try wet aging, 3 weeks would be desirable.

There are hunters who have successfully wet aged venison for a lot longer, but I personally have not tried it.

After wet aging, cook the venison or freeze it to enjoy later.

Elk Sounds of the Season

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Slowly stalking through stands of conifers and golden aspens, you stop and cup your hand to your ear. There it is again, the sound, unmistakable and piercing. After days of trekking, you’ve finally heard the roar of a bull elk, and you’ve got him pinpointed. That’s when the stalk begins across the ridge. This is what you’ve been waiting for all year.

Understanding the elk sounds of the season will give you a leg up when you head to the woods this fall.

Understanding the elk sounds of the season will give you a leg up when you head to the woods this fall.

For us, there’s almost nothing better in this world than hearing elk sounds echo throughout the mountains. No other animal in North America sounds quite like it. And the different cadences are extraordinary. For the elk hunter, it’s important to understand exactly what these vocalizations mean. For instance, you want to know if the sounds you’re hearing are from a bull or cow, if they’re alert or calm. This will also help you become a better caller, allowing you to draw the animals in close enough for a shot.

Bugle

Even non-hunters can recognize a bugle from a bull elk. It’s a multi-tone sound that begins low and transitions into what can only be described as a loud scream. Bulls bugle during the rut when they’re seeking a mate. The vocalization also serves as a warning to other bulls in the area as a sign of dominance. While you can’t judge the size of a bull based on his bugle, it can be used as a beacon to pinpoint his location. Use the Back Country Elk Decoy and a bugle call to draw him into range. When the rut is in full swing, he won’t be able to resist the prospect of fighting off another male to protect his harem.

Glunking

This is a sound made by a bull that you may also hear during the rut. A glunk is a muffled bass sound, in single tones, one after the other in quick succession. The bull uses this vocalization to communicate with groups of cows. So if you hear this, there’s a good chance there are cows nearby as well.

Chuckle

Bulls will produce a chuckle at the end of a bugle. It sounds like a series of short, loud grunts. However, he may chuckle without bugling. This is another vocalization that is meant to express dominance to males and attract females. Many bugle calls can produce a chuckle, and it’s a great way to add variation to your call sequences.

Bark

This call is used by elk to alert the herd of danger. The vocalization is a single, sharp sound.

Typically, if you hear a bark, the whole herd will quickly disappear because they’ve spotted or winded you. Barks are bad and a sound you want to avoid hearing.

Cow in Estrus

Cows will use this vocalization during the rut to signify she is ready to breed. It sounds like a whine, similar to a bugle but not as high-pitched or as long. This is a handy call to keep in your bag, as this can be used to locate a herd or stop a bull when you’re ready to shoot.

Calf

A calf will sound similar to a cow, although the tone will be much lower. Typically, their calls will be single sounds, similar to a squeak. Much like whitetail does, cow elk will respond to the bleating of a lost calf. If you can pique the curiosity of a few cows with a calf call, they’ll come into bow range. If you’re hunting bulls this can also be advantageous as he’ll often follow cows to ensure his harem doesn’t get separated.

Chirp

This call is made by cows and bulls, often when a large herd is together. They’re general noises elk make when near each other, feeding contently. If you hear these sounds, you can expect a herd close by.

Toxic Plants That Look Like Food: 30 Plants You Need To Know

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Foraging for food in the backcountry is a great way to enjoy a tasty treat on the trail. But, foraging for the wrong berries, scrubs, and leaves could result in an upset stomach, or something much worse.

That’s because not all the tasty-looking plants you see on the trail are okay to eat. Some are highly toxic and are best avoided. The key is knowing how to tell the toxic plants that look like food apart from those that are okay to eat.

If you’ve ever wondered how to identify toxic plants, we’re here to help. In this article, we’ll introduce you to 30 types of plants that look like food that you ought to avoid on your travels. That way you can avoid this list of poisonous herbs and berries and stick to eating only edible plants as you hike.

Caution! Foraging Safety

30 Toxic Plants That Look Like Food: What You Need To Know

1. Death Camas

If a name like “death camas” doesn’t tell you to stay clear of this plant, nothing will. All jokes aside, however, death camas (Zigadenus venenosus) is one of the most toxic plants in North America.

Death camas is found throughout the western and midwestern United States and it looks like a tall, grass-like plant. Below the ground, it has a sizable bulb that makes it look dangerously similar to plants like onions, garlic, leeks, chives, and scallions.

The problem is that, unlike these plants, death camas is not edible. It can cause muscle weakness, vomiting, tremors, convulsions, and, as its name suggests, death. Thankfully, poisoning among humans isn’t very common, but death camas is known to cause problems for livestock, especially sheep.

Either way, death camas is one toxic plant that you should avoid at all costs.

2. Jerusalem Cherry

Jerusalem cherry (Solanum pseudocapsicum) is a nightshade that’s traditionally used as an ornamental plant for Christmas. However, while it makes for a pretty decoration, the fruits and seeds of the Jerusalem cherry are highly toxic.

In fact, the poisonous fruit of the Jerusalem cherry contains solanocapsine. Unless eaten in very large quantities, solanocapsine usually isn’t deadly to humans, but it can cause gastrointestinal problems and severe vomiting. It’s also possible that these berries are poisonous to cats, but more research is needed to confirm that.

The problem is that the fruit of the Jerusalem cherry is a small, reddish-orange cherry tomato-looking fruit. This can make it difficult to identify, particularly because there are so many varieties of this plant. Therefore, it’s generally best to avoid plants that look like cherry tomatoes while foraging in the wild.

3. Doll’s Eyes

If there’s one plant that you need to avoid at all costs, it’s this one: doll’s eyes (Actaea pachypoda). A member of the buttercup family, doll’s eyes look like innocuous white flowers before they become raisin-sized white berries with a distinctive black spot.

These berries can be found throughout the deciduous woodlands of eastern North America, and they are highly toxic. The plant contains an as-of-yet unidentified toxin that affects the cardiac system. This toxin is found throughout the plant, including in the roots and berries. When ingested, this toxin effectively “sedates” the heart and can lead to immediate cardiac arrest.

Thankfully, you need to eat a fairly large amount of these berries for this to happen, which isn’t likely because the berries are so bitter. But, the doll’s eyes are best to avoid on the trail.

4. Hemlock

5. Rosary Pea

6. Giant Hogweed

7. Death Cap

8. Angel’s Trumpets

9. Tutsan

Traditionally used to ward off evil spirits, the tutsan (Hypericum androsaemum) is a perennial shrub that’s native to Eurasia. It was traditionally used as a medicinal plant for things like antidepressants.

However, despite its historic medicinal use, the entire tutsan plant, including its berries, which look similar to blueberries in some situations, are toxic. That’s because they contain hypericin, which is a commonly found compound in species of the St. John’s Wort genus (Hypericum).

It’s unclear precisely what it is about hypericin that’s toxic, but it’s believed that this compound can lead to cell death. Nevertheless, consuming tutsan berries can lead to nausea and diarrhea, so it’s perhaps not the best option for your trail snack.

10. Canada Moonseed

Canada moonseed (Menispermum canadense), or simply common moonseed, is a highly toxic plant that’s found throughout eastern North America. It is a relatively small flowering plant that forms in thickets with thick green leaves and small bunches of blueberries.

Although it might look like any other berry-bearing plant, the Canada moonseed is exceptionally toxic. It contains a plant metabolite called dauricine, which is found throughout the plant’s berries, roots, leaves, and flowers. Dauricine causes cardiac issues that can lead to cardiac arrest and death. Needless to say, don’t eat the Canada moonseed.

Interestingly enough, however, this highly toxic compound is being studied for use as a cancer treatment because there’s some hope that it can suppress the growth of cancer cells. One 2019 study found that it was fairly successful at suppressing pancreatic cancer growth in mice. Even still, don’t eat Canada moonseed.

11. Buckeye

12. Wisteria

13. False Morels

14. Wolfsbane

15. Horse Nettle

Despite its name, horse nettle (Solanum carolinense) is not actually a nettle, but rather it is a type of nightshade.

Horse nettle is a type of herbaceous plant that grows large leaves and has white and yellow star-shaped flowers. It is most commonly found in temperate North America, but you can also find it in areas of Europe, Australia, and temperate Asia.

Also called devil’s tomato, the horse nettle is well-known for bearing a highly toxic tomato-like fruit. This poisonous fruit contains solanine, which is a type of alkaloid that can cause abdominal pain, vomiting, nausea, and even respiratory arrest. When eaten in large quantities, horse nettle can even cause death.

Since the fruit of the horse nettle does look a lot like a cherry tomato, it’s important to be careful when picking tomato-like fruits in the wild. Keep in mind that the horse nettle has a thorny stem, which is one way that you can tell the two apart. However, caution is still necessary whenever picking tomato-like fruits on the trail.

16. Castor

Castor (Ricinus communis) is a type of flowering plant that’s arguably best known for the castor bean, which is technically a seed. The castor bean is used to create castor oil, which is used for manufacturing dozens of products, from paints to perfumes.

This plant is traditionally found throughout the Mediterranean Basin, the Indian subcontinent, and eastern Africa, though it’s now spread throughout the tropics and subtropics.

Although castor bean oil is a very popular manufacturing product and even though the castor bean looks like it might be edible, it’s actually highly toxic. This is because raw castor beans have a high level of ricin, which is a type of poison that prevents cells from making proteins.

Thankfully, castor bean poisoning isn’t that common, but it is possible, particularly if you eat a large number of castor beans. It’s estimated that a healthy adult would need to eat approximately 4 to 8 castor beans in order to get seriously ill.

But since the ricin in castor beans could kill you, it’s probably best to avoid eating castor beans, regardless of the quantity you consume.

17. American Bittersweet

American bittersweet (Celastrus scandens) is a fairly common type of twining vine that is found climbing its way up trees, fences, trellises, and other structures throughout deciduous ecosystems in North America.

It has small oval-shaped leaves and small flowers that form in clusters. Eventually, these flowers give way to small orange or red-colored fruits.

However, the American bittersweet has a bit of a controversial history of toxicity. While some sources maintain that the American bittersweet is not toxic to humans, it’s been suggested that the plant’s fruit was used by a number of Indigenous communities to induce vomiting.

Either way, we do know that American bittersweet is highly toxic to dogs, cats, and horses. So, if you’re adventuring with your pet or pack stock in tow, be mindful of these potentially dangerous fruits on the trail.

18. Daffodil

Daffodils are a common sight around manicured gardens and in the wilderness during the spring months. However, they are not a good trail snack because they are highly toxic.

All daffodil varieties contain a chemical called lycorine, which is present throughout the plant’s flower, stem, and bulb. In fact, the bulb of the daffodil has the highest concentration of lycorine, which is known to cause nausea, abdominal pain, and even liver damage.

Since daffodils are so distinctive when in bloom, it’s unlikely that someone would mistake them for a different kind of edible flower. The problem with daffodils arises before they bloom. Because daffodil bulbs can look like wild onions, some people have mistaken them for onions, which is problematic.

Thankfully, there is a way to tell daffodil bulbs and onions apart. First and foremost, daffodil bulbs don’t smell like onions. But, even in the absence of this olfactory clue, daffodil bulbs also don’t tear into layers like onions do. So, proper identification is key when searching for wild onions.

19. Deadly Nightshade

20. Yew

21. Pokeberries

22. Virginia Creeper

Sometimes called the five-leaved ivy, the Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quinquefolia) is a type of decorative ivy that’s originally from the eastern and central parts of North America. Although it can sometimes be confused with poison ivy, Virginia creeper has clusters of five leaves—not three.

While Virginia creeper might not cause the same kinds of rashes as poison ivy (more on that in a bit), it’s not exactly a harmless plant.

In fact, the Virginia creeper has berries that look a lot like purple grapes but that contain oxalic acid. This can cause joint pain, as well as vomiting, diarrhea, and other similar symptoms when consumed.

23. Cotoneaster

Cotoneaster refers to a large genus of flowering plants that are technically part of the rose family. These plants were traditionally found throughout the temperate regions of Europe, Africa, and Asia, though you can now find them in North America.

Almost all cotoneaster plants feature berries and leaves that contain cyanogenic glycosides. Even though cotoneaster plants generally have low levels of these compounds, consuming too many berries can lead to kidney, liver, or heart failure. This is particularly true among young children.

Additionally, cotoneaster berries are believed to be toxic to dogs. Although a dog that eats these berries will usually only experience mild digestive problems, eating large quantities of berries could lead to severe health issues among canines.

24. Bitter Almonds

25. Mistletoe

A mainstay of Christmas and yuletide celebrations around the world, the mistletoe is a type of hemiparasitic plant that originated in Europe but has since been introduced to North America. But while the mistletoe is quite festive, it’s not a great snack to eat with your eggnog.

There are a number of active substances in mistletoe, including tyramine and phoratoxin, which can cause vomiting, nausea, and cardiac arrest.

But there are actually 1,500 different mistletoe species, each of which has varying levels of these toxins. This makes identifying particularly poisonous mistletoe plants very difficult.

In fact, it’s believed that American mistletoes are less toxic than their European counterparts. But with all those potentially nasty side effects to worry about, it’s probably better not to taste the mistletoe at your next holiday gathering.

26. Poison Ivy

27. Manchineel Tree

28. Holly

Holly is another Christmas symbol that’s known for being a festive addition to any wintery gathering. Like mistletoe, however, holly is also highly toxic, so it’s best as a decoration, rather than as a holiday snack.

While holly is a beautiful decorative plant, the berries of the holly plant genus Ilex (there are about 480 species in the genus) are all toxic. They contain a number of different compounds, including theobromine, rutin, quercetin, and chlorogenic acid.

For the most part, ingesting holly berries leads to diarrhea and vomiting, though they can also lead to intestinal problems. Eating even a few holly berries can lead to health problems in children. Thankfully, the prickly leaves of the holly plant usually dissuade kids from eating these berries, but it’s important to keep in mind while hiking or enjoying a yuletide celebration.

29. Elderberry

Although elderberry is a delicacy and one of the most commonly used medicinal plants on the planet, it’s technically toxic. Yep, that’s right. When eaten raw, elderberry’s bark, leaves, and berries can cause health problems.

That’s because elderberries naturally contain lectins, which are a type of protein that can cause stomach issues. Additionally, elderberries contain cyanogenic glycosides which can cause cyanide poisoning, just like in bitter almonds.

The good news is that cooked elderberries don’t contain these compounds, so it’s generally not a problem to eat the berries with proper preparation. Either way, the bark, branches, and leaves of elderberries don’t lose their toxic compounds when cooked, so hikers should avoid eating these during their travels.

30. Wild Cherry

Last but not least on our list, we have the wild cherry (Prunus serotina). Also called black cherry, the wild cherry tree is a deciduous tree that’s found throughout the Americas.

While it shares part of its name with the tasty cherry that many of us enjoy, the wild cherry’s leaves are highly toxic. The wild cherry tree leaf contains hydrocyanic acid and cyanogenic glycosides, which can release cyanide when ingested. This can be fatal if eaten in large quantities.

Fatalities associated with wild cherry in humans aren’t very common. However, livestock and pets are common victims of the wild cherry due to the fact that they sometimes eat the tree’s poisonous leaves. Therefore, hikers should keep a close eye on their pets while venturing down the trail.

How to Identify Common Poisonous Berries (North America Edition)

What to Do If You Eat a Toxic Plant

Hopefully, your astute plant ID skills and cautious approach to foraging have prevented you from accidentally eating a toxic plant that looks like food. In the unfortunate instance that you do eat something that’s not edible, it’s important that you quickly get to medical care.

Should you come into contact with a poisonous plant while hiking, do the following:

  1. Stay Calm – It might sound cliché, but no one has ever achieved anything from panicking in an emergency.
  2. Take Photos – If you can, take photos of what you ate. Doing so may help with plant identification by poison control or the hospital. Do not bring the berries, fungi, or plants with you to the hospital. Bringing these substances to the hospital can be dangerous for you and medical providers.
  3. Get To Medical Care – Even if the amount of toxic berries that you ate is relatively small, your best bet is to get to medical care as soon as possible. Everyone reacts differently to different substances, so you want to be around medical professionals if you were to have an adverse reaction to a toxic plant. The faster you can get to medical care, the better, but don’t over-exert yourself or get lost in the process.
  4. Provide Supportive Care – Should you be tasked with caring for someone in the backcountry that is having an adverse reaction to toxic berries or plants, you may need to provide supportive care to that person. Doing so is only appropriate for people with prior medical or wilderness medicine training. Supportive care in these wilderness situations usually means conducting a complete patient assessment and coordinating an evacuation.

The best

Bass Flies (21 Proven Fly Fishing Patterns That Catch Bass!)

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I have been fly fishing for bass for 30 years, but the sheer fury with which they strike a fly still takes my breath away. I have tried every fly from Parachute Adams to eight-inch-long articulated streamers, and after 30 years I have compiled this list of my favorite flies for catching bass on a fly rod.

I loosely grouped these flies into four categories: Top Water, Subsurface, Sliders and Divers.

Below are 21 of My Favorite Flies for Catching Bass

Top Water — Poppers

Poppers are flies that sit on the surface of the water. They have earned their name because when you strip them on top of the water they make a popping sound. They can imitate everything from frogs to lizards to small mammals like mice or even birds. Bass are opportunistic and incredibly aggressive and oftentimes the strike on a popper is absolutely explosive.

1. Seaducer Double Barrel Popper

The deep double scoop moves a lot of water and produces a big pop, and that is exactly what predatory bass are looking for. A proven favorite for largemouth bass in Size 2 and smallmouth in Size 6. I would feel a little under-gunned if I didn’t have a couple of these in my fly box.

Zudbubbler Fly works like MAGIC

I was really happy with the flies I bought on Amazon. Here’s a link – Double Barrel Popper I don’t have a fly shop close by so the fast deliver worked perfect.

I’ve had great luck with yellow/chartreuse and black/white colors. They’ve proven to be super effective when the top water bite is on

These poppers tend to hang up in weeds, so accurate placement is needed with a clear retrieval path. An aggressive 6 to 10 inch strip produces an awesome pop.

Guide Pro Tip: Getting the right flies is important, but knowing how to fish them is even more important. Read 👉 How to Catch Bass with Poppers

2. Zudbubbler

The Zudbubbler is a revamped version of Tom Loving’s Gerbubble Bug, and it absolutely crushes largemouth and smallmouth bass. This fly has a squared head and tapered body, and this combination creates a satisfying pop with just the right amount of movement. As if the pop wasn’t enough, the Zudbubbler has a bunch of rubber legs that flutter in the water and trigger strikes from finicky bass.

The Zudbubbler comes in a wide variety of colors, but I am partial to green, black, or orange in Size 3/0.

Zudbubbler Fly works like MAGIC

The tapered body of the Zudbubbler lends itself to easier and precise casting, so I usually reach for this fly when bass are shaded up around structure.

3. Boogle Bug

The Boogle Bug has been in my box since I first waddled across the street to the neighbors pond. The proportions of this bug are perfect, and the durable nature of the material enables you to fish this fly until full dark.

Peeper Popper Fly for Bass

My favorite colors for the Boogle Bug are bright yellow, black or white. I like to fish a Size 6 for both smallmouth and largemouth bass.

Some fly shops will carry these, but I bought my last couple from AMAZON here’s a link to check the prices – BoogleBug Popper.

I’ve caught bass on this bug in all weather conditions at all times of the day. If the fishing is slow, cast the Boogle Bug up against some structure and let it sit. And sit. And sit. Let it sit for longer that you want, give it one 4 to 8 inch strip, and be ready…

4. Peeper Popper

I originally purchased the Peeper Popper to catch panfish, and I was pleasantly surprised at how many smallmouth I caught instead. Smallmouth bass love this bug.

Peeper Popper Fly for Bass

The profile of the Peeper Popper lends itself to quieter water, so tie it on first thing in the morning or right at dark. Again, lay out a good cast and let it sit before stripping it back to you with even 6 inch strips.

5. Chubby Chernobyl

Although it was designed for trout, smallmouth and largemouth bass will hammer a Chubby Chernobyl on the right day. Look around and try and match the color of your Chubby to the color of the big grasshoppers, cicadas, or beetles that visit the banks of your favorite fishery.

You might find this at the local fly shop but I did see they’re available at Amazon here’s a link – Chubby Chernobyl Ant.

I like to fish this bug in a Size 6 through Size 10. If you are fishing stillwater, cast it up against structure and let it set for a moment before giving it a twitch to make those legs wiggle. You are trying to imitate an insect that has fallen into the water so try slightly shorter strips.

6. Mini Mouse Fly

The Mini Mouse isn’t a popper, but it makes a racket and draws smallmouth bass from the depths. I like to fish the Mini Mouse in a Size 6 or Size 10.

Galloups Peanut Envy Fly Amazing action catches smallmouth bass

If you tie flies, these aren’t very difficult, but they make a huge mess. Consider buying these online, I found them on Amazon. Here’s a link – Mouse Fly Assortment

Cast the Mini Mouse up against the bank and skate it across the water by keeping your rod tip high and wiggling the tip of your rod as you strip in line. Although I’ve had bass eat mouse patterns all day long, fishing this fly in the early morning or right at dusk seems to work the best.

Subsurface — Streamers

Streamers are weighted flies that are meant to be fished beneath the surface of the water. They are designed to imitate everything from baitfish to leeches to crayfish. The action of a streamer is dependent upon the fly tying material, weight, and style of retrieve.

Guide Pro Tip: Clouser’s work for nearly every fish you’d cast a fly too. Learn how to use them in this article. 👉 A Complete Guide to Fly Fishing with the Clouser Minnow

7. Clouser Deep Minnow

The Clouser Deep Minnow is one of the best bass flies in existence. It imitates a wounded or dazed baitfish, and the weighted eyes lend the fly a jumping and diving motion that smallmouth and largemouth bass find irresistible. I like to fish the Clouser in Size 4 – Size 10 in a wide variety of color combinations including white/chartreuse, white/red, black/red, yellow/brown, and just plain white.

Clouser’s are a MUST have fly. Sometimes I’ll tie my know or just buy them from Amazon. Here’s a link to a nice mix of effective colors – Clouser Deep Minnow

Strip in the Clouser with steady strips and vary the speed and depth of your retrieve until you start getting strikes.

8. Woolly Bugger

The Woolly Bugger can be fished the world over for a wide variety of fish including smallmouth and largemouth bass. The profile coupled with the lifelike motion of the maribou feathers in the tail of the fly make it a must have for any water body you visit. My favorite colors are olive, black and white. I carry Woolly Buggers in Size 6 – Size 10.

Woolly Buggers are fast and fun to tie, but if you want a variety of colors you can end up buying a mountain of feathers. Great variety packs can be purchased at Amazon here’s a link – Woolly Bugger Fly Assortment

Fish the Woolly Bugger with steady strips. A sink tip line and varying speed and pattern of your strips can also be very effective. Below is a YouTube Video I made for making a Sinking Tip for your Fly Line.

9. Galloup’s Peanut Envy

This fly is essentially a Woolly Bugger on steroids and largemouth bass love a big meal. I like to fish the Peanut Envy in white or olive in Size 6.

Galloups Peanut Envy Fly Amazing action catches smallmouth bass

Fish the Peanut Envy on a sink tip line with a variable stripping pattern. When you cast it out, let it sink for awhile… The fluttering motion drives fish crazy, and oftentimes you will find a big bass on the end of your line when you give that line the first strip.

10. Nancy P Galloup’s

The Nancy P imitates a crawfish and if a great option for largemouth bass when the water temperatures are chilly. Try and match the size and color of the fly to the crayfish in your local waters, but I like to fish an orange version in a Size 6.

Nancy P Fly from K. Galloup

Since the Nancy P is supposed to be a crayfish, try and bounce this fly along the bottom of the river or lake with slow even strips.

11. Mohair Leech

The Mohair Leech is an effective leech pattern that works great for both smallmouth and largemouth bass in rivers and lakes. I like to fish the Mohair Leech in Size 8 or Size 10 in either black or green. If there is a lot of algae in the water, fish an olive Mohair Leech.

This is another fly that can be tough to find at a fly shop. I bought black and rust colored at Amazon. Here’s a link to Amazon if your interested – Mohair Leech

Fish the Mohair Leech on a slow sinking line. You want to strip this fly very slowly along the bottom.

12. Double Bunny

The Double Bunny is a baitfish pattern this is tremendously effective for largemouth bass. The fly is tied with two strips of bunny hair, and the way those fibers wiggle in the water is hard to beat. I like to fish the Double Bunny in Size 4 in an olive/white combination.

I found a really cool sub-surface collection of Streamers on Amazon here’s a link to check out the prices Bunny Streamer Collection.

The Double Bunny is the most effective around schooling bass or structure. Vary your stripping pattern and throw on a sink tip if you aren’t getting down far enough in the water column.

13. Bunny Leech

The Bunny Leech is another leech pattern that entices both largemouth and smallmouth bass. Tied with rabbit fur, this fly is particularly effective in stillwater fisheries in Size 6 or Size 8 in black or olive.

Fish this fly on a sink tip line. Bounce it along the bottom with very slow strips and when your line suddenly feels gummy give it a hard strip-set.

14. Muddler Minnow

The Muddler Minnow is one of the most versatile flies in the world, and it is no surprise it does well in largemouth and smallmouth fisheries. The Muddler Minnow is a great baitfish imitation and I like to fish it in olive, white or tan in Size 10.

Streamer Fly Pattern (Muddler)

Seriously consider getting your Muddler Minnows on Amazon. I’ve tried to tie these and have never seemed to get it right. The prices will be much lower than at the local fly shop. Here’s a link to Muddler Minnows at Amazon

15. Swimming Jimmy

Fish the Muddler Minnow wherever you see baitfish hanging out. Adjust the depth and speed of your strips until you start getting into fish.

The Swimming Jimmy is a really unique fly that has incredible action in the water. This fly is supposed to imitate a wounded baitfish, and I have caught plenty of big largemouth and smallmouth bass with this wonky fly.

Swimming Jimmy Streamer Fly for Bass

I like to fish this fly in a Size 4 or Size 8 on a sink tip line. Slower strips seem to lend this fly the best action, and I really love the originally olive/white combination.

Sliders

Sliders are flies that are meant to be fished on top of the water. They typically have a cone-shaped head and dive slightly under the water when you strip them. Sliders are more subtle than poppers.

16. Sneaky Pete

The Sneaky Pete is one of my favorite largemouth and smallmouth bass flies. The subtle wiggle motion coupled with the rubber legs makes this fly irresistible to bass. I like to fish this fly in Size 4 or Size 8 in either white, green, or black.

Finding Sneaky Pete’s at a flyshop that have been tied well can be a challenge. I found some on AMAZON that are supplied by Orvis. Here’s a link to check the prices – Orvis Weedless Sneaky Peter.

Cast the Sneaky Pete up against structure and let it sit for a moment before retrieving it with 6 to 8 inch strips. If the fish are picky, increase the length of time between strips.

17. Murdich Slider

The Murdich Slider is a baitfish pattern that has a lot of flash and wiggle that largemouth and smallmouth bass love. This slider is tied with buoyant deer-hair head that keeps it near the surface unless it is fished with a sink tip line. I like to fish this slider in a Size 2, and white has always been my favorite color.

Murdich Slider Fly for Bass

Fish this fly when there are big fish around but the popper bite just isn’t on. Slow down the retrieve if the fish are especially timid.

18. Murray’s Shenandoah Slider

Although this fly was originally designed for smallmouth bass, I have watched plenty of largemouth bass inhale this fly. I like to fish this fly in Size 6 in the traditional yellow/olive color.

I have found that this slider is especially effective in waterbodies that have good populations of sunfish. A slower strip retrieve usually gets the most strikes.

Divers

Divers are flies that can be fished along the surface at slower speeds or subsurface at faster strip speeds. They tend to dive beneath the water if they are fished with sharp strips, but their buoyant nature means that they will float back to the top. They are meant to imitate everything from frogs to baitfish.

19. Dahlberg Diving Bug

The Dahlberg Diving Bug is the granddaddy of all diver flies, and it is effective against largemouth and smallmouth bass. This fly is a great frog imitation and should be fished in the traditional olive/brown/white or green/yellow color in a Size 4 through Size 8. Try and match the color of the frogs that you see on the banks.

Here’s a link to Amaon where I found my Dahlberg Divers.

This fly is designed to imitate a frog, so it should be fished with quick, hard strips that send the fly diving beneath the water. Strip it once or twice, let it float back to the surface, and then let it sit for a couple of seconds before repeating.

20. Puglisi Diver

The Puglisi Diver was originally designed for pike, but it catches more than its fair share of big largemouth bass as well. I like to fish a Size 1/0, purple/black version of this fly at night.

Puglisi Sunfish Diver for BIG Bass

Fish this fly with short hard strips followed by a long pause. The takes are usually pretty violent…

21. Whitlock’s Waking Sunfish

This fly works great in any waterbody that has healthy populations of sunfish. The motion of this fly in the water imitates a wounded sunfish and largemouth bass can rarely turn down such a tasty morsel. I like to fish this fly in a Size 6 or Size 10.

Whitlock’s Waking Sunfish

I like to fish this fly just beneath the surface of the water so that ripples are formed on the surface. Stop stripping it occasionally and let it float to the surface and be ready for an explosion.

I have fished for everything from bonefish to trout, but fly fishing for largemouth and smallmouth bass is still one of my favorite things to do. Watching bass explode on a popper or inhale a slider makes my heart jump every time. As if that wasn’t enough, the burly strength and aerial shows that these fish put on are hard to beat. Best of all, bass are aggressive and opportunistic predators, which translates into lots of action if you are fishing with the right flies. So cast that popper, let it sit, give it one good strip and be ready…

About Ethan Smith

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I came to this world towards the close of 1988. This was at Mountain Vista Medical Center located in Mesa, Arizona. It’s not that I recall the events that transpired. My mom shared the details with me when I grew bigger.

For about one year to the time I was born, my dad had been jobless after his employment as a Walmart cashier was terminated. You can imagine the kind of strain my parents had to endure. Mom was running her dry cleaning business. The little earnings she got from the business is what sustained us. Luckily, I was the only child then. My one and only sister arrived some four years later. 

Nevertheless, my dad kept an open eye for whatever job opportunity he could grab. He had a degree in Forest and Rangeland Stewardship. The Walmart stint was just a by-the-way. That happens when you have to fend for yourself and others but no opportunity knocks along your career line. 

I count myself as one blessing in disguise. You see, on my first birthday, dad received a long-awaited call from the USDA forest service. He had landed a job as a game warden at the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forests. The days that followed were perhaps the most exciting my parents had experienced since their honeymoon. 

We soon set camp at the little known Miami town in Gila County, Arizona. That’s about three and a half hours drive drive to dad’s reporting station. Mom generously sacrificed her business for our sake. But she soon teamed up with some new found friends to run one of the most popular eateries in Miami town.

So, there I was! A forest ranger’s son without the slightest idea of what a forest is. 

Table of Contents

Education

The first years at our new residence passed hastily. All I can remember was child play. We had great neighbors who made childhood worthwhile. 

I was soon enrolled in kindergarten at Dr. Charles A. Bejarano Elementary School, just a walking distance from our home. As I graduated from grade to grade, I soon started getting into real terms with what my father was doing. Occasional trips to his workplace did all the magic.

Now, you think of Arizona as a desert. True! I don’t dispute that the Great Basin, Chihuahuan, Mojave, and Sonoran deserts are all in Arizona. In actual fact, Arizona is the only state in the US that partly hosts all the four famous North American Deserts.

But on the other side of the coin, Arizona hosts a whopping 6 national forests namely Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest, Coconino National Forest, Coronado National Forest, Kaibab National Forest, Prescott National Forest, and Tonto National Forest. I grew up knowing only the Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest, and that meant the world to me. 

My dad would occasionally sneak me and mom into the 2.76-million-acre forest to witness hunters doing their thing. I got to see game animals like antelopes, black bears, elk, mountain lions, mule deer, doves, tree squirrels, and waterfowls in their natural habitat. I saw licensed hunters walk away with huge antelopes after successful hunting trips. I got to understand how guns are used for hunting

I would closely watch my dad load his .25 Benjamin Marauder and fire accurate shots at unsuspecting game animals. The resulting fall of the animals really captivated my young mind. 

I really felt that the authorities responsible for the local kids and youth hunting programs made a grave mistake by setting the minimum enrollment age at 14 years. Rules aside, my only solace was sneaking in with dad. And that’s the privilege of being a game warden’s son.

Fast forward to my highschool years at Payson High School. The very day I turned 14, I registered with the Arizona Elk Society. The best thing about this group was teaming up with fellow teens to go hunting in the woods. The exposure it gave me was deeper than what my dad had offered earlier. 

Let not the name of the club mislead you that we only hunted elk. We hunted virtually every animal you can find in the wilderness and forests of Arizona. Also note that Apache-Sitgreaves has 34 lakes and reservoirs and over 1100 km of rivers and streams. We never ran short of fishing opportunities. 

I got so immersed in the activities of the club that I never viewed high school as a burden. As long as weekends were fun-filled, I got the push to study hard. I always topped my class in the English subject. And for that reason, they made me a frequent writer on the school’s bi-annual magazine. I had nothing else to write other than on outdoor adventures.

Work

I’m really grateful for the foundation I got in my first 20 years of life. That gave me a solid grounding on what I currently do and what I plan to do for the rest of my life. My love for the outdoors influenced me to take a Bachelor of Science in Forestry at Northern Arizona University. 

I successfully graduated after 4 years and soon after landed a job with the US Marine Corps as a Combat Correspondent. That has been my main job since that time. My main task is gathering Marine Corps news and stories to generate news stories for distribution via television broadcasts or writings. As such, I travel widely across the US for interviews and minor investigative work. 

As a side hustle, I’m a professional blogger with thousands of articles so far under my name. When not writing, I go hunting. I’m still young and I want to use my time well before old age knocks.

Why I hunt with air guns (not crossbow, real rifle)? 

My first hunting weapon was the .22 Diana Storm Rider air rifle. While working with the US Marine Corps, I came to dread owning and using a firearm because of the legal restrictions associated with them. 

The fact that .22 rounds can shoot as far as 1.5 miles makes the use of firearms quite dangerous around residential areas. Gunshots also unnecessarily cause panic when the noise reaches residents. Conversely, air rifles have a limited range and I could use them in my backyard without threatening anyone’s safety or causing panic.

I also like air rifles for the fact that most states don’t classify them as firearms. Carrying around firearms has its fair share of concerns among citizens and authorities . 

Another advantage of air rifles is that pellets will never go bad, no matter how long they’re stored. For real rifles, there’s the usual worry about cases, powder, and primer.

On the other hand, hunting with crossbows is not my thing given the high cost of good quality crossbows and how cumbersome it is to hunt with them. It’s easier to carry air rifles and load ammo for shooting than it is with crossbows.

For these reasons, I have so far amassed a wide collection of airguns as listed below:

  • Hatsan BT Carnivore QE .30 cal
  • Hatsan Bullboss QE .25 cal
  • Hatsan AT44-10S QE .25 cal
  • Benjamin Marauder .25 cal
  • Hatsan Galatian .177 cal with Wolf LDC
  • Mrodair Varmint .22 cal with Wolf LDC
  • Diana Stormrider .22 cal
  • Gamo Urban .22 cal
  • Hatsan AT P2 .22 cal with Wolf LDC

These keep me busy throughout the hunting seasons for the hunting areas I frequent. I’ve come to love:

  • Mattamuskeet Wildlife Refuge in North Carolina
  • Arkansas’ Piney Creek WMA
  • The Green Swamp Wildlife Management Area near Tampa, Florida
  • The Cheyenne Bottoms Wildlife Area in Kansas
  • West Virginia’s Charleston-Beckley corridor

And of course, my most beloved Apache-Sitgreaves National Forest.

Family

Perhaps I should have started with this info. But I’m glad you made it to this point and are reading this. I took Texas-bred Laura for a wife back in 2016. The Wild West blood runs through her veins. I’ve thoroughly coached her in gun handling. Don’t mess with her. Here she is modelling for pneumatic air rifles.

We travel with her to most of the hunting trips I just mentioned. The arrival of our first born son, Dickson, slightly slowed our outdoor life, but we’ll soon be able to travel with the little kid. I’d like him to take after me as I took after my dad. The current sedentary lifestyle in front of screens most of the day is not my thing. I love it out there in nature. Nothing fascinates me more than that. 

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