Learn how to find and identify the best wood for Bow Drill to start a fire using a Bow Drill Kit. The top trees and plants in North America for bow drill friction fire kits.

Choosing the best wood for your Bow Drill Kit is critical to success. Even if everything else is PERFECT, choosing the wrong wood will likely result in failure. This article will highlight the best trees and woody stalked plants in North America to use for carving your Bow Drill Kit. Before we get into the specific species, let first discuss some basic wood properties.

DOWNLOAD my 6 Identification Guides for the Best Bow Drill Woods in North America – FREE – just enter email below.

Best Wood for Bow Drill: Wood Properties & Selection

Dry

If the wood you choose is not bone dry then you will not succeed in making fire with your bow drill kit. An ember can only be born in the near absence of moisture. For this reason, live green wood should never be used for the spindle or the hearth board. (Live green wood is actually preferred for the bearing block, which we will discuss later.)

EXPERT FIELD TIP

It can sometimes be difficult to determine by touch if a piece of wood is dry. I’ve found that the lips, cheeks and chin are more reliable than my fingertips in determining if a piece of wood contains moisture.

If at all possible, wood for the spindle should not be gathered from the ground. With few environmental exceptions (such as extremely arid locales) wood found on the ground will be less desirable because it will have absorbed moisture. Dead standing wood and low-hanging branches are almost always drier because they are exposed to sun and wind.

Wood Types

Although I have successfully used many different types of wood for spindles, certain varieties work best. While I want you to be familiar with specific trees and plants that make excellent spindles, it’s important that you first understand their key properties.

Soft and lightweight woods are preferred over hard and dense varieties. A popular rule of thumb [LM1] is that you should be able to use your fingernail to make an indentation in the wood with little effort. While soft is preferred, the wood should not be ”punky” or rotted. It should be firm.

EXPERT FIELD TIP

I prefer to use the same exact type of wood for both the spindle and the hearth board. I’ve had the most success with this arrangement. Exceptions can be made, of course, but I prefer to cut both components from not only the same type of wood but the same piece of wood as well.

I also like to use tree branches and suckers (these are saplings growing from the base of larger trees) as opposed to the main trunks. This faster-growth wood has a more porous texture than the dense, main trunk and creates a faster ember with less effort. Along that same line, I’ve found that the faster the tree grows, the better it is for bow drill spindles. Single-season growth is always an excellent choice. It just so happens that the tree varieties that work best for bow drills also grow extremely fast.

Finally, any wood you choose should be as straight as possible and free of knots or cracks.

Drying a Green Kit

You may not find dead, standing wood of the variety you need, but you can cut live green wood and let it dry. For one kit, I typically cut a branch or sucker (preferred) about the diameter of my wrist and at least one foot long. I then split this piece in half and let it dry on a south-facing window sill for at least a week. Splitting the branch allows for a faster drying time.

DOWNLOAD my 6 Identification Guides for the Best Bow Drill Woods in North America – FREE – just enter email below.

Best Wood for Bow Drill: Specific Tree Species

As mentioned earlier, soft woods make ideal bow drill kits. Below is a list of trees in order of my preference for both the spindle and hearth board. Where applicable I also list other noteworthy facts about these incredible survival resources.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Basswood (American Linden) (Tilia Americana)

Besides balsa, I know of no softer wood than basswood. Also known as the American Linden, basswood is a favorite of wood carvers and one of the best woods for bow drill. My friends from Britain refer to this tree as Lime. Except for areas of extreme climates, basswood can be found in most of the northern hemisphere. It is a water lover and will almost always be found growing around water.

Basswood leaves are somewhat heart shaped and almost always asymmetrical. They have a small, pea-shaped fruit that dangles from a tongue-shaped bract. Young, tender basswood leaves are among my favorite wild edible greens. I make basswood salads several times a week in early spring.

The ”bass” in basswood comes from the word ”bast,” which means fiber. The inner-bark fibers of the basswood tree make incredible natural cordage. Instant basswood bark cordage can easily be obtained in spring and summer months by peeling the bark from younger suckers or saplings. You will find this cordage to be flexible and strong. I have made many a bow drill string using basswood cordage. The bark from slightly older basswood trees (3 – 5 inches in diameter) can be pounded and peeled from the trunk during the same time of year when the sap is flowing heavy. After soaking in water for 3 – 4 weeks (called “retting”) the inner bark fibers will easily peel away from the rough exterior bark in long, ribbon-like sheets.

I recall one summer when lightning struck a large basswood tree at the edge of the pond near my training facility. This powerful strike caused the bark of that large tree to be blown from the trunk in several massive sheets, around 2 feet wide and 20 feet long. After soaking them in the pond I was able to gather several wheelbarrows of basswood cordage, which I used in training for many years after.

While I’ve used basswood of every age and type for bow drill kits, my favorite is that which is sourced from sucker trees that are 2 – 4 inches in diameter. The consistency of fast-growing sucker wood is unlike wood cut from the main tree. However, green sucker wood will require drying time. If you find a standing sucker tree that’s already dead, count yourself lucky. If suckers are not available, low-hanging branches are a good second choice.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Eastern Cottonwood (Populus deltoides)

Cottonwoods were a favorite among Native Americans across North America, as the trees were used to make dugout canoes. (Often, these were coal burned.) Cottonwood trees have a triangular-shaped leaf with toothed edges. The bark is deeply fissured. Like basswoods, cottonwoods grow primarily around water. I’ve seen massive cottonwoods along streams from Arizona to Virginia. When it comes down to it, some would argue that cottonwood is the best wood for bow drill.

Cottonwoods grow very fast—almost too fast for their own good. The combination of this fast growth and their soft wood makes for very weak branches, which is a good thing when searching for stock to make your spindle and hearth board. Dead, broken branches can almost always be found littering the base of large cottonwoods and hung up in smaller trees or underbrush nearby.

During the spring, when the cottonwood bears the source of its name, one can gather not only wood for the spindle and hearth boards, but tinder bundles as well. Cottonwoods produce seeds that are covered in cotton-like down. When gathered together, these downy clusters make a very flammable tinder bundle.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Eastern Red Cedar (Juniperus virginiana)

The eastern red cedar grows primarily in the northern woods of the United States and into Canada, but I’ve had success with many different cedar varieties including western red cedar from the Pacific Northwest. Cedars are coniferous evergreens and are easily identified by their flat, fan-like branches with scaly leaves.

The dead lower branches (also known as “squaw wood”) often make excellent spindle and hearth board choices. Shredded cedar bark makes one of the most effective tinder bundles. It can easily be processed by scraping a knife at a 90-degree angle against the tree. The bark will shred off in fibrous masses that can be further processed by rubbing the shredded bark between the palms of your hands until they reach a hair-like consistency.

LEAD MAGNET: DOWNLOAD IDENTIFICATION GUIDES

Best Bow Drill Wood: Willow (Salix spp.)

There are hundreds of species of willow throughout the world, and for many, it is the best wood for bow drill. They belong to the genus Salix, and are simply called that in many areas. They love water and grow in nearly all temperate regions of the world where water is available. I’ve seen them along the banks of arroyos in the Sonoran Desert and in the marshy swamps of Maine. They grow in nearly every roadside ditch, along rivers, and at the edges of ponds. If you cut a live willow twig (called a cutting) off the tree and shove it in the ground, it will likely root and grow into a tree of its own. I’ve planted hundreds of willow trees on my own property using this method.

Willow leaves are typically long and narrow. They are widest in the middle and taper to a point on both ends. The leaf margins are finely toothed. The upper-side of the leaf is bright green, and the underside is often pale green, which gives many willows (such as the white willow, Salix alba) a silvery appearance from a distance. The bark of young trees and branches is very smooth and becomes darker and furrowed with age. Many varieties of willow, especially those related to Salix alba have brightly colored bark in early spring that can range from yellow to red.

Best Bow Drill Wood: Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis)

The sycamore tree, another water lover, is nearly impossible to misidentify and is a good wood for bow drill. Its very unique bark has a winter camouflage effect: mottled with whites, tans, creams and grays. As the tree grows, the exterior bark peels off to the ground in thin, brown curls, leaving a pure white base layer exposed. No other tree in the forest has bark that looks like or behaves like the sycamore’s. When layered into a large cigar-style roll, a thick tube of sycamore bark also makes for an excellent fire carry. It will smolder a red hot ember, which can be used to blow a tinder bundle into flame when desired.

The sycamore tree also produces small balls of clustered seeds in the fall, which can be broken apart and incorporated into a tinder bundle. The seed clusters alone don’t make an ideal tinder bundle, but they are great filler when mixed with dried grasses, pine needles or bark fibers.

Like the cottonwood, the base of all sycamores will be littered with dead and broken branches all year round. These branches make very serviceable spindles and hearth boards. Sycamores also grow suckers at the base, which can be used.

Other noteworthy bow drill trees are:

• Red Alder
• Staghorn Sumac
• Aspen
• Tulip Poplar

Best Wood for Bow Drill: Woody Stalked Plants

My first successful bow drill kit wasn’t made from a tree at all, but from a woody, stalked plant – the yucca. In fact, there are several noteworthy plants with woody stalks that make fantastic bow drill spindles and hearth boards. Some of the fastest embers I’ve seen generated with a bow drill were from those carved from woody, stalked plants. Let’s discuss a few of the most popular of these.

Yucca (Yucca spp.)

I list yucca first because it has a special place in my heart since it was the first material I learned to use in my bow drill kit. It makes an excellent choice for first-time drillers. Yucca is a plant native to America’s Southwest, not to be confused with yuca, also known as manioc or cassava, which has an edible root. Yucca is a popular ornamental plant and can now be found all over the United States and throughout the world. It grows in arid deserts as well as the four-season eastern woodlands. Even the harshest of winters will not kill it. I’ve often found it growing in old cemeteries, where it no doubt was planted as an ornamental.

The leaves of the yucca are green and sword-like. Beware of the very sharp points on the tips. They grow from a central rosette and remain green year-round. There are many different species of yucca (some even growing into large yucca trees). While not edible, the yucca root is loaded with saponins and can be crushed and used as soap for washing.

Yucca’s claim to fame is its fibrous leaves, which are filled with long, strong fibers that can be woven into durable survival cordage. (This process is covered in great detail in my Pocket Field Guide entitled NATURTAL CORDAGE.) Immediate cordage can be sourced from the green leaves, but I prefer to use the dead leaves that typically can be found around the base of the plant. It is very easy to slough off the brown, flakey exterior and extract the fibers from the already-dead, dried leaves. I have successfully used yucca leaf cordage combined with a yucca stalk spindle and hearth board for many bow drill kits. Yucca is nearly a one-stop shop when it comes to gathering bow drill kit components.

The stalk of the yucca grows from the center of the plant starting in early spring. The height and diameter it reaches depends upon the species and age of the plant. Beautiful white flowers (which are actually edible) bloom all around the stalk, creating a very impressive display in spring and summer. Soon after full bloom, the yucca stalk begins to die, dry, and harden. By late fall and all through the winter it’s ready to be cut off at the base and used for a bow drill spindle and hearth board. The lightweight, porous consistency of this dead, dry, woody stalk makes for one of the best bow drill spindles available on earth. The trick can sometimes be finding a stalk that is thick enough AND straight enough to be used as a drill and hearth.

Sotol (Dasylirion spp.)

Sotol, also known as desert spoon, is similar in appearance to yucca. It, too, is an evergreen and produces long, thin, sword-shaped leaves in a circular pattern around the base. Unlike yucca, sotol cannot handle prolonged cold and therefore grows exclusively in the warm, arid environments of America’s Southwest, including the Sonoran Desert of Arizona.

Like the yucca, sotol produces a central flower stalk that is adorned with a bristle-like plume of tiny white flowers. This stalk can grow as tall as 20 feet, and I’ve seen them as large as 2 – 3 inches in diameter. The leaf edges are lined with sharp, barbed thorns, so use caution when cutting the stalk from the base.

The dead, dry, and woody stalk is used extensively for the fire plow method of friction fire-starting and is large enough to make many bow drill kits. This stalk works incredibly well for bow drill and is highly recommended if you reside in an area where the sotol plant is native.

Elderberry (Sambucus spp.)

Elderberry is a deciduous shrub found throughout the Northern Hemisphere, except in areas with extreme climates. A year-round identifying feature of the elderberry it its bark. The exterior of the bark is covered with evenly spaced little raised ”bark warts.” This is a very unique feature of the elderberry.

In spring, the elderberry bush produces flat, dinner-plate-sized flowers, which are actually made up of many small white flowers. These flowers can be battered and fried (elderberry fritters), but they are traditionally used to make elderberry syrup after being steeped in sugar water. If left to their own devices, the flowers will ultimately transform into clusters of berries colored from purple to black. These are used to make jellies, jams, wines, and all sorts of other delicious treats. All other parts of elderberry are poisonous.

The elderberry branch is unique in that it has a very large pith with a Styrofoam consistency. It’s one of the very few bushes/trees/woody, stalked plants that can be hollowed out. It’s the soft wood of the elderberry combined with its pithy center that makes it a wonderful bow drill spindle candidate. An elderberry spindle is better paired with a hearth board made from a different type of wood. It’s challenging to create a proper hearth from an elderberry stalk because of its central pith.

*Special Note: Because of the pithy center, it can be difficult to carve the top of the spindle to a point. Consequently, it is better left rounded.

Download my 6 Bow Drill Wood Identification Guides – FOR FREE! Just enter your email below!

Mullein (Verbascum thapsus)

The dead, dry stalk of the mullein plant in fall and winter makes a very suitable bow drill spindle. Much like elderberry, it is better paired with a hearth board made from a different wood because a suitable hearth board is difficult to split out from a pithy-centered mullein stalk.

Mullein, also known as lamb’s ear, has large, pale-green, fuzz-covered leaves in spring and summer. The plant has a two-year life cycle. The first year it grows a low rosette of large fuzzy leaves that are nature’s perfect toilet paper and padded inserts for shoes. During its second year it shoots up a tall, straight, and woody stalk topped with masses of beautiful little yellow flowers. This stalk is almost always perfectly straight and I’ve started many a bow drill fire with a mullein spindle.

The woody stalk is firm, yet soft, and the center is filled with a dense pith. One fall I built an entire bow drill kit (excluding the bow string) from one giant mullein. I used the root for the bearing block; the stalk for the spindle, hearth and bow; and the leaves and seed head for the tinder bundle.

*Special Note: Because of the pithy center, it can be difficult to carve the top of the spindle to a point. Consequently, it is better left rounded.

Best Wood for Bow Drill: Carving Your First Kit

Material selection is only one component that you have to get right when starting a friction fire using the Bow Drill. You must also carve the kit correctly. To help make sure you carve the kit correctly, I’d like to give you my BOW DRILL CARVING TEMPLATES to use as your guide. They are FREE for you to use – all you have to do is enter your email below so that I know where to send them!

Download my FREE Bow Drill Carving Template by entering your email below!

Thanks for checking out my article about how to choose the best Bow Drill Wood – I hope you’ve found it helpful!

CR///EK

Compact is a term that’s seen as rather relative in most things. In the gun world, the term compact pistol seems firmly rooted as a firearm’s descriptor.

What size is compact?

Typically, a compact pistol has a barrel length between 3.7 to 4 inches. It also sports a double-stack type magazine with a capacity of at least 15 rounds (if 9mm) and features similar to a full-sized gun – like a rail for lights and optics compatibility.

The Glock 19 defined an entire generation of pistols as the standard-bearer for what a compact pistol should be. It’s small enough to be carried concealed but big enough to be a duty or home defense pistol.

New generations have seen a rail for lights and a cut for optics.

Being a standard-bearer meant you were innovative enough to be successful. However, does that mean the Glock 19 is the best compact pistol on the market?

I don’t think so.

I appreciate Glocks, and I own them, but I think Glock has gotten complacent. They still equip those not-so-great sights to their guns, and they won’t release the MOS 3 to us average joes. Not to mention, they ignore most ergonomic complaints until a big contract calls for changes.

With that in mind, if the Glock 19 is no longer the best, what is?

That’s tough. The compact handgun genre has become incredibly popular and is filled with outstanding options.

I can’t tell you which is the very best, but I can tell which guns are gunning for Glock’s top spot.

So, keep reading to see some Glock 19 alternatives in the compact realm.

THE QUICK LIST

Best Glock 19 Alternatives

1. CZ P-10C

CZ produced a striker-fired pistol before, but we don’t talk about the CZ 100. What the CZ 100 got wrong doesn’t matter because the CZ P-10C got it right. The latest and arguably greatest strike-fired from CZ hit all the right marks.

The C stands for compact, and the barrel measures 4.02 inches long, the capacity of flush-fitting magazines is 15 rounds, and the pistol is 1.26 inches wide.

Optics-ready options are available, and the gun comes with a Picatinny rail and backstraps to adjust for different hand sizes.

On top of that, CZ makes numerous models with different features, including suppressor height sights, threaded barrels, and different frame colors.

The P-10C does a few things notably better than the Glock…

First, the trigger is superior. It’s a cleaner break with a flat-faced trigger that performs better and feels better in hand.

Second, I find the ergonomics to be phenomenal. This includes the slide lock placement, the magazine release size, and the ultra-aggressive grip texture.

Oh, and the sights are made of metal — not plastic.

Glock still has CZ licked in simplicity and magazine prices as CZ mags are pricey. While the P10-C can be upgraded with new controls, triggers, etc., the Glock is still the easier gun to work on.

Even so, the P-10C offers more features, better ergonomics, and more configurations, and they do so for about the same price as a Glock 19.

Want to learn more? Check out our review of the CZ P-10C.

2. Walther PDP Compact

PDP might as well stand for Pretty Damn Perfect because Walther blew it out of the park with this gun. The PDP is a successor and evolution of the PPQ.

It’s the first pistol I know of designed with the use of red dots in mind.

That said, of course, it’s red dot ready and outfitted with a plate system superior to the Glock MOS system in design.

The PDP compact features a 4-inch barrel, a width of 1.34 inches, and a magazine capacity of 15 rounds.

Walther designed the gun’s grip ergonomics around using a red dot, which shows.

Finding the dot and completing a good presentation of the gun makes it easy to find and quick on target. That by itself is innovative and makes the PDP Compact stand out.

Like the PPQ, the PDP features an amazing trigger. In fact, it’s even better than the PPQ with a shorter travel and a tactile reset you can’t miss.

Hot dang, the ergonomics of the PDP are awesome, and the gun feels so good in the hand. Besides feeling gun, the grip texture and the slide serrations are aggressive and sticky.

All the controls are large and easy to engage, especially the slide lock. Walther also allows you to swap frames and slides to create numerous gun configurations.

Glock does come in cheaper at both gun and magazine prices, though.

The Glock MOS series provide the plates to the shooter, while the PDP forces owners to order their free plate from Walther. Glocks are also easier to find and widely available.

The Walther PDP continues Walther’s tradition of being very underrated and under-appreciated.

In most respects, Walther’s Compact model blows the Glock away and is an awesome gun.

Want to learn more? Check out our written review here or watch the video review below!

3. Sig Sauer P320C

If one gun has been eating Glock’s lunch, it’s been the P320C.

Every day it seems like law enforcement departments are adopting the P320 — and we can’t forget the military’s adoption of the pistol.

I’ll give you two guesses at what the C in P320C stands for, and here is a hint, it doesn’t stand for cat. The compact variant hits us with 15-round magazines, a barrel length of 3.9 inches, and a width of 1.4 inches.

Sig loves to make a variety of configurations, and the P320C comes in seemingly half a dozen different variants.

The standard model is what we’ll be referencing today. The gun’s main draw will be its modularity.

The internal FCU is the actual “gun” portion. So this lets shooters easily remove the FCU and swap grip modules and slide sizes. I use a number of grip modules with my P320C, including one that allows the use of P365 mags.

Besides that, Sig includes real, all-metal sights that are almost always Sig LITE night sights. They also offer numerous optics-ready models, ambidextrous or reversible controls, and that 1911-like angle we all adore in the good ole US of A.

What does Glock do better? Provides magazines at a decent price point.

Sig is quite proud of their Italian-made mags. Beyond that, it’s tough to justify the Glock 19 in favor of the P320C.

I’m hoping guns like the Sig Sauer P320 force Glock to innovate and release those innovations to us. (Where’s the Glock 46 Gaston?)

4. HK P30

I will defy the article I’m writing by introducing a DA/SA hammer-fired gun instead of a striker-fired model.

The P30 doesn’t have a “compact” designation but fits the bill. HK gives us a 3.9-inch barrel, a width of 1.37 inches, and 15 rounds of 9mm in the magazine.

The DA/SA action of the HK P30 means the gun’s outfitted with a decocker. It’s not a conventional decocker, but it’s one of my favorites. HK placed it at the rear of the gun, right by the hammer, for easy engagement.

It also offers an awesome European magazine release that sits on the trigger guard — ambidextrous and easy to manipulate. The controls, in general, are massive and easy to engage.

This is one of the few pistols I can shoot with a thumb’s forward grip without pinning down the slide lock.

On the ergonomic front, a gun with replaceable backstraps is nothing new. However, HK went a step further with replaceable backstraps and side panels.

You can definitely customize the gun to fit your hand beyond what Glock offers.

Thankfully, HK got rid of their proprietary rail and gave us a true Picatinny rail.

Beyond that, Glock does a few things better. Like the magazines, which is a recurring theme. Also, Glock makes an optics-ready model — HK doesn’t do the same with the P30.

The HK P30 differs slightly with its DA/SA design, but it’s a fantastic firearm with interesting ergonomics. It might not appeal to everyone, but it’s a winner in my book.

5. Beretta APX Centurion

Poor Beretta deserved a lot more recognition for the APX series. It’s easy for striker-fired pistols to get lost in the mix, but the APX presented a fantastic pistol.

The Centurion model uses 15-round magazines, a barrel length of 3.7 inches, and a width of 1.3 inches.

This model delivers the closest we get to a compact pistol in this lineup. (Beretta’s actual compact APX is more of a subcompact.)

The APX was Beretta’s entry into the MHS trials and, like the P320, uses an integral chassis from easy-grip swaps.

Beretta released a few different frame sizes and frames with finger grooves and without. APX Centurion owners can swap the back strap, which also changes the side panels of the grip.

The APX trigger might be average and on par with Glock, but holy crap is it an accurate and controllable gun.

This little fella is super easy to shoot accurately and quickly. The APX ergonomics and configuration make it easier to control with more accuracy than I expected.

Size-wise it’s a little smaller than the Glock 19 and easier to conceal, but we still get a rail system.

The RDO model allows the shooter to top it off with a red dot on demand, and the ergonomics lend themselves well to adding a red dot.

Glock’s G19 still…you guessed it, makes magazines cheaper. And the Glock 19 is much more readily available. Finding the APX Centurion can be tough, and finding the RDO model can be even tougher.

Beretta makes them…allegedly.

The APX Centurion is a top-tier Italian stallion; believe it or not; it’s one of the most affordable pistols on this list.

Right now, you can purchase it for less than $400 — that’s a lot of guns for such a low price.

6. Sig Sauer P365 XL

You may claim the Sig Sauer P365 XL isn’t a compact pistol. You might be right, but then what is it?

The P365 XL has a 3.7-inch barrel, a 15-round magazine, and a width of 1.1 inches. It’s smaller than the Glock 19 but still meets the dimensions of a compact pistol.

This gun packs a rail…even though it’s proprietary, it can mount a TLR 7 SUB. Don’t forget, you can also attach a red dot, and every P365 XL is optic ready.

The main benefit is that the P365 is much thinner than the Glock 19. It easily pulls double duty as a self-defense handgun and a concealed carry pistol.

Not to mention, it conceals easier…and that matters to a lot of smaller shooters.

Besides being a little smaller, it packs the same style of FCU the P320 does. You can use multiple grip modules from Sig and the aftermarket to get various grip sizes, terrains, features, and more.

Heck, I have an all-metal grip for my P365. What’s not to love?

Besides being optics ready, we also get great Sig Day/Night sights, a great trigger, an ergonomic grip, and multiple options for magazines. The 15-rounder fits, but so do 12-rounders which shrink the gun.

What Glock does better, besides magazines, is control. The larger, wider grip offers better control over the gun, making it easier to fire faster and more accurately.

The Sig Sauer P365 XL redefines a compact handgun and offers an option for someone who might prioritize concealment more than control.

7. Glock 48 MOS

So, for those who MUST have a Glock but still want to scoot around the Glock 19…check out the Glock 48 MOS.

It’s basically a single-stack Glock 19 in size – with a slightly longer barrel at 4.17 inches but a width of only 1.1 inches.

The stock magazines only contain 10 rounds, but a company called Shield makes a flush-fitting 15-round all-metal magazine that gives it Glock 19 capacity.

The MOS model tosses on an optic’s cut and a rail for mini lights like the TLR 7 SUB.

Basically, this version, alongside Shield mags, gives you a Glock 19 that’s smaller than the Glock 19.

The main thing the G48 does better is concealment. It slips under clothes very easily and makes the gun-friendly to carry. Even though it’s more carry-friendly, the hand-filling grip makes it easy to control and manage.

Like the Glock 19, the Glock 48 is simple, reliable, and robust.

It’s customizable, and numerous companies produce magazines for the weapon. However, the Shield mags are the only option that offers you compact capacity with a flush-fitting design.

Final Thoughts

Though the Glock fanguys and girls will lament the fact that I’m suggesting anything other than Gaston’s Glory, the PPT team likes options.

So, when you want something that’s just as good (or even better…yeah, I said it) than Glock, check out the options above.

Which gun do you think out Glocks the Glock 19? Or have I committed sacrilege even suggesting such a thing? Let me know below. If you need a Glock, check out our list of the Best Glock Models or the Glock Clones we think are worthy of your attention.

“Understanding the Rights of Felons: Possession of Air Rifles in Florida” Discover the regulations surrounding felons owning air rifles in Florida. Explore the legal framework, restrictions, and implications for individuals with criminal records seeking to own these firearms. Gain clarity on this important topic to make informed decisions within the state’s jurisdiction.

Can a felon own an air rifle in florida?

In the state of Florida, the ownership and possession of firearms by felons are strictly regulated. However, when it comes to air rifles, the laws are slightly different. In general, felons in Florida are not allowed to possess firearms, including handguns and long guns, such as shotguns and rifles. However, air rifles fall into a separate category as they do not use gunpowder or explosive force to propel projectiles.

Florida law does not specifically prohibit felons from owning or possessing air rifles. Since these weapons operate by using compressed air or gas to shoot projectiles, they are considered less lethal than traditional firearms. As a result, felons are generally allowed to own and use air rifles for recreational purposes such as hunting small game or target shooting.

While felons may legally own air rifles in Florida, it is crucial to note that certain restrictions still apply. For instance, individuals with felony convictions related to violent crimes or domestic violence may face additional limitations on their ability to possess any type of weapon, including air rifles. It is always advisable for felons to consult with local law enforcement authorities or legal professionals to fully understand their rights and any potential limitations regarding the ownership and use of air rifles.

In conclusion, felons in Florida are prohibited from owning an air rifle due to the state’s laws regarding firearm possession. Despite being non-lethal, air rifles are categorized as firearms under Florida law, making them off-limits for individuals with felony convictions. It is crucial for felons to understand and abide by these regulations to avoid any legal consequences.

This is a dynamic everyday carry guide curated by all of our authors for preppers both new and experienced. It is constantly being updated with up-to-date and accurate information, so please check back frequently for updates.

Every day carry encompasses all the items you carry on your person every day. It is less of a kit and more of a daily loadout. EDC (Everyday Carry) is popular far beyond prepping and survival- many people try to optimize what they carry with them for every single day of their lives. It can include pouches, multi-tools, and CCW or just be your keys and wallet.

EDC also includes the clothes you choose to wear. Versatility, weight, size, and functionality are all important for EDC gear.

Contents (Jump to a Section)

Everyday Carry Essentials

The everyday carry essentials with our recommended gear for each area. Outfitting yourself in most of these will give you the resources to tackle emergencies, disasters, or just every day life without notice.

Carried EDC Essentials

• Keys: Attach to your keychain tools.
• Wallet: Magpul DAKA Essential – One that is functional, durable, and either versatile or low-profile depending on your EDC approach. (See why the DAKA beats the others in our wallet review roundup)
• ID: Quickly prove your identity.
• Cash Stash: Don’t keep all your cash in one spot. Find out more about EDC cash stashes.
• EDC Multitool: Gerber Dime – Make yourself endlessly useful even when there aren’t disasters! (See why this is our top EDC multitool)
• Folding Knife: OKC Rat 1 – The quintessential survival folding knife. (See why this is the best value in survival folding knives)
• Cell Phone: A smartphone loaded with survival apps.
• Cell Phone Charger: Paired with your phone above.
• Steel Water Bottle: Nalgene Stainless 38oz (See why this is the best survival water bottle)
• Lighter: Ronson Jetlite (See why this is our favorite lighter)
• EDC Flashlight: Olight i3T EOS Flashlight (See why this is the best EDC Flashlight)
• Rainproof Pen: Rite in the Rain EDC Pen – take notes in any conditions (see why this is the best survival pen)
• Rainproof Paper: Rite in the Rain Notebook
• Mini First Aid Kit: A small, portable First Aid Kit.
• Prescription Medication: Store your prescription medicine in a water and air-tight portable container.
• Protein Bars: Clif Bars or your favorite protein/energy bar.
• Feminine Hygiene Supplies: Keep supplies nearby.

Worn EDC Essentials

• Work Gloves: Mechanix FastFit Covert Gloves (See why these are the best-reviewed survival gloves)
• Socks: Darn Tough Light Hiker (See why these are the best survival socks)
• Shirt: Carhartt Midweight Crew (See why this is the best survival shirt)
• Underwear: Some clean ones.
• Pants: TRU-SPEC Tactical Pants (See why these are our best budget pants)
• Ball Cap: Condor Tactical Cap (See why this is the best survival ball cap)
• Bandana: Colter Co. Reflective Bandana (See why this is the best survival bandana)
• Boots/Shoes: Sturdy hiking shoes or boots.

Suggested Additions for Your EDC Loadout

This gear may not be essential by definition, but adding any of these to your EDC will improve your loadout’s versatility for even more situations.

• EDC Backpack: A bag will allow you to carry much more equipment and gear wherever you go.
• Belt: 5.11 TDU Belt – You may be wearing one anyway, but adding a belt to your outfit can be useful for emergencies. (See why this one is the best survival belt).
• Jacket: 5.11 Bristol Parka – Lightweight but extremely versatile for a wide range of conditions (See why we recommend this in our survival jacket review).
• Poncho: Arcturus Rain Poncho – Staying dry is important during an emergency. (See why this is the best survival poncho)
• Sunglasses: Whether driving or just outside, sunglasses come in handy.
• Survival Mirror: UST Micro Mirror (see why this survival mirror is the best EDC option)
• Power Bank: Portable battery packs have come way down in cost and are very versatile.
• Whistle: SOL Slim Rescue Howler – Whistles make getting attention easy (see why this whistle is the best in a close race).
• Concealed Carry Handgun: Your preferred CCW that you are trained on (see ours here).
• CCW Holster: Alien Gear Concealed Carry Holsters – Get a holster in the profile you want from the best brand.
• Ammunition: PSA Ammo Deals – Get ammo for your CCW at huge discounts.
• Pepper Spray: Sabre 3-in-1 Pepper Spray – A great non-lethal weapon for personal protection. (See how this tested as the best pepper spray)
• Purification Tablets: A few Aquatabs (see why these are our favorite purification tablets for EDC)
• Water Filter: Sawyer Mini Water Filtration System (see why the Mini is the best-reviewed water filter)
• Water: If using an EDC Backpack, keep your steel water bottle full.
• Ration Bars: Millennium Bars (see why this is the best survival food bar)
• Camp Utensils: Stainless Hobo Cutlery Set
• Military Can Opener: P-51 Shelby Opener (see why this is the best portable can opener)
• Batteries: Tenergy Premium Pro Rechargeable Batteries – Stocking up on standard batteries is smart, but rechargeables are clutch for emergencies and survival. (See why these ones tested as the best rechargeable batteries for disasters and survival)
• EDC Sewing Kit: Singer 27pc Sewing Kit – Repairing textiles and other gear can extend their useful life. (See why this is our favorite EDC sewing kit)
• Paracord: TOUGH-GRID Paracord (See why this is our preferred paracord)
• Carabiner: 3″ Aluminum D-Ring
• Duct Tape: Gorilla Tape 35 Yard Roll (See why this is the best duct tape for survival)
• EDC Magnifying Glass: Credit Card Fresnel Lens – Start fires and read maps more easily. (See why this is our favorite EDC magnifying glass)
• Ferro Rod: Bayite Toggle Hole Ferro Rods (see why this is our favorite EDC ferro rod)
• Tinder/Fatwood: TinderQuik – start fires easier (check out the other best tinder and fatwood we tested)
• Waterproof Matches: UCO Stormproof Match Kit (see why these matches are the best)
• GPS Watch: Garmin Instinct 2– Pick your favorite GPS watch (see why this is our best-reviewed survival watch).
• USB Drive: Load a USB drive with your favorite survival manuals and maps of the area.
• Sun Screen: Your favorite brand with high SPF.
• Bug Spray: Repel 100 (see why science says this is the best repellent)
• Hand Sanitizer: During a pandemic, this is an essential EDC item.

Extra Supplies for your EDC Kit

Essentials and suggested additions have been covered, so this is the area will you will find everything else that could be useful to have on you every day. These extra supplies will help you in very specific situations, are less versatile, and may take up a lot of space. Even still, they could be the difference makers in an emergency- so it could pay off to consider adding these.

• EDC Pouch: PJ13 Leather Sheath – Carry more and keep it accessible with an EDC pouch.
• Scarf/Shemaugh: Free Soldier Shemagh – Stay covered in any environment (here are the best-reviewed shemaghs)
• Compressed Towels: Lightload Towels (see why these are the best EDC towels)
• Handwarmers: HotHands
• HAM Radio: Baofeng UV-5R5
• CB Radio: Uniden PRO401HH – HAM may get all the attention, but CB can be an alternative choice that doesn’t require a license.
• Pocket Sharpener: Fallkniven DC3 – Small but effective diamond sharpener (check out our other option in our sharpener roundup)
• Ammo Pouch: Accessible ammo can be a priority depending on your situation.
• Handcuff Key: Streamlight CuffMate
• EDC Fishing Kit: Readyman Fishing Card – Be ready to fish right from your wallet. (here are some other fishing kit options)
• Beef Jerky: Pick your favorite brand and flavor.
• Condiments: Make anything edible (like an MRE!) by dousing it in your favorite condiment. Check out our suggested condiment stockpile list.
• Multi-Vitamins: Make sure your diet completes all of your body’s nutrient requirements.
• Fishing/Hunting License: It’s not a bad idea to keep licenses on you.
• Compass: Brunton TruArc – Stay on track and navigate with maps. (see why this is the best survival compass)
• Local Maps: Print copies of local maps. Here’s how you download them for free.
• Ranger Beads: Matte Ranger Beads – Teach yourself to pace count with ranger beads. (see why these beat the other ranger beads)
• Playing Cards: Wilderness Survival Cards – Don’t forget the importance of entertainment and games. These cards are our favorite from our survival card review.
• Toothbrush: Travel Toothbrush
• Toothpaste: Colgate Travel Toothpaste
• Floss: Floss is versatile and surprisingly strong!
• Wet Wipes: Surviveware Biodegradable Wipes
• Zip Ties: Gardner Bender HD Zip Ties (See how these tested as the best survival zip ties)
• Oil Lubricant: Super Lube – There are over 2,000 uses for lubricant, and it’s a must-have for any tool kit.
• Garbage Bags: Glad FlexForcePlus– Use them for trash, or plenty of other survival uses with these unique double-walled flexible bags. (See why these are the best trash bags)
• Super Glue: Gorilla Super Glue Gel – For when you want something to stay and never move again. (see why this is the best super glue)
• Pencil Sharpener: Twin Sharpener– A great tool to create wood shavings for fire starting. Or sharpening pencils.

The Definitive Everyday Carry Checklist

A perfect EDC loadout doesn’t exist- what is right for you depends on your situation and risk tolerance. That said, we have as close to perfect of a starting point for you: our definitive EDC checklist.

Our checklist is available as both a pdf download and as a Google Sheet/Excel file where you can check off items yourself, and even add and subtract items from the checklist.

Everyday Carry Printable PDF Checklist

If you are looking for the simplest way to print and use the checklist above, download our printable PDF version. It is one page long on 8.5″ x 11″ paper if you reduce the margins to 0.5″. This EDC PDF makes gathering and tracking your EDC gear extremely easy. Once you open the every day carry PDF checklist in your browser, you can either print it directly or save it through your browser.

Everyday Carry Excel / Google Sheet Checklist

If you are looking for a comprehensive way to track your EDC loadout, open our Excel / Google Sheet version. The sheet is sharable, and you just need to copy it to your own Google Sheet account or download it to excel to edit it. We also keep links to our reviews for each category linked to simplify shopping for any equipment you may find yourself missing.

The Next Step

EDC adds tons of versatile functionality to your everyday life. You’ll find yourself using many of the tools you added very often. Now we’re going to pivot and move on to the items you won’t use often at all.

Specialized kits are designed for people in specific situations. Not everyone needs every type of specialized kit. Knowing your capabilities and threats will help you as we move on to the next section: Specialized Kits.

You’ve Been Missing Out

Join the 2+ million preppers that rely on our prepping advice by subscribing to TruePrepper.

• Practical guides and tips
• Useful survival giveaways
• Free, forever
• < 0.4% of people unsubscribe

Thanks for subscribing, reading, and welcome to the club.

Food plots require planning, design and management to be successful. Before investing time, labor and money, you should determine the goals of your food plot. If you enjoy growing things, working with the land and nature, and seeing wildlife thrive, you may generally find installing food plots rewarding. If you install food plots as a main goal to grow and harvest trophy animals, you may soon become frustrated. Food plots alone do not create large antlered, trophy sized white-tailed deer. Genetics and the age structure of bucks in a herd influence antler size more than additional food. Food plots should not be used as a substitute for natural wildlife foods. Food plots should only be a small part of a larger management plan for wildlife in your area.

Expectations for Your Food Plot

A balanced management strategy is important to create a sustainable food plot. You should begin with realistic expectations for your food plot based on your land resources and local wildlife populations. Once those expectations are determined, you can begin planning the number of plots, size of the plot, plot location, and species of plants. While many articles and books contain information about simply sizing food plots based on desired wildlife, there are additional variables that should be considered as you design a food plot for your land. Consider the following questions before installing a food plot:

1. Are deer the only species of wildlife you hope to attract?
2. What is the population of those wildlife species already in the area or per square mile?
3. Do you expect to harvest wildlife from hunting or just use the food plots to attract wildlife for viewing?
4. Do you plan to use the food plot to increase the variety of food for area wildlife, or is there already naturally occurring food or agricultural crops available on your property and surrounding areas?
5. Do you need additional equipment to prepare, install and maintain the food plot you plan to establish?
6. How long do you expect to maintain the plot(s)?
7. How much of a time commitment are you willing to make for future years to keep the plot(s) functional?
8. How much money are you willing to spend now and in the future to keep the plot(s) productive?
9. Would your food plots become a conflict if your neighbors are trying to eradicate the wildlife you are trying to attract?

Answering these questions will determine the feasibility of attracting the desired wildlife in your area and your ability to invest time, money and effort in creating and managing the food plot. To help you with this process, this fact sheet is the first of three that serves as a guide for creating food plots for wildlife. This fact sheet covers the design, layout and habitat requirements of deer. The second fact sheet focuses on the planting of the food plot, including what and when to plant along with the equipment needed to plant and care for your food plot. The third fact sheet identifies management strategies to care for the food plot for sustainability and environmental health. This first fact sheet will cover basic considerations for designing your food plot.

Food plot with purple top turnips. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Food Plot Size

Food plot size is dependent on the population of deer and the size of your property. For example, creating a food plot for white-tailed deer where heavy populations currently exist, you may need large, numerous plots to prevent over use, especially if few agricultural crops are nearby. In this situation, plots ranging from 2 to 5 acres or more are recommended to handle heavy pressure and minimize excessive injury to plants in the food plot(s).

To help identify areas with heavy pressure and to monitor use, you can create a deer exclosure. A deer exclosure is a small, fenced plot made of wire or plastic materials that prevents deer access to the protected plants. You can monitor the level of browsing, and tell which plants are preferred. For example, if plants such as clover are constantly over-browsed, they will die out in the plot but be present in the exclusion cage, providing a comparison to what would be growing if plants were not over-browsed. If consistent high levels of browsing occur, additional plots or acres would need to be installed so the plant species you want to grow can be maintained in the food plot.

In less densely-populated wildlife areas, or where agricultural crops are plentiful, plots less than 2 acres may provide enough forage to meet your food plot goals. For hunting situations, ¼- to ½-acre plots may be ideal, but choosing or creating areas where enough sunlight reaches the plants is critical. If your food plot is expected to provide feed and/or cover in the late winter months, then the plot should be a minimum of 1 acre and, for this purpose, “bigger is better.”

How many food plots or what total acreage should you install? The level of management and desired impact you plan to achieve determines this. If you intend to “intensely” managing the area for high quality and quantity of forage, installing food plots on 1 to 1 ½ percent of your property can provide positive impact for deer in a given area. This would be 7 to 10 acres of food plots per square mile (or per 640 acres). With a more “average or normal” management approach, a minimum of 5 percent of the property should be dedicated to have noticeable impact for white-tailed deer. To provide optimum nutrition and benefit, food plots should be evenly distributed across the entire property. A variety of crops may be necessary to provide high quality food year-round.

If you have 50 to 100 acres and want to draw, attract or hunt deer on your property, where do you start? First, determine the quantity, quality, type and location of food sources near your land. Then, you can identify supplemental food sources for your food plot to make a significant difference for the wildlife. For example, energy in the diet of white-tailed deer is critical during late fall and winter. So, corn or grain sorghum, which are high-energy forages, could provide much needed energy during that time of the year. This would especially be true in years of poor acorn production. (See the nutritional considerations section for more information on food sources.)

Roadway seeded with annual rye and oats. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Food Plot Shape

The shape and layout of the food plot also needs to be considered in your goals. Making an opening in a woodland or installing a food plot in an existing opening can change the ecosystem around the perimeter of the opening. This abrupt change on the perimeter, where one habitat type stops and another begins, is called an edge.

Increasing habitat edges can promote usage of the area by deer and other wildlife. The amount of edge created by a long narrow plot is much greater than a square plot with equal acreage. Also, wavy, uneven edges provide extra length and a more natural look than straight line edges. The distance from cover to the edge may be of concern for small species of wildlife. If the distance is too far, the smaller species may avoid the area because of possible exposure to predators. To help reduce this concern, placing food plots near plentiful cover is beneficial. Many larger game species of wildlife prefer to move along and inhabit woodland edges; however, these woodland edges may increase predation of small animals and cause relocation of some bird species. To prevent this, planting shrubs, vines and other low story vegetation adjacent to the plot creates a soft edge along the perimeter to encourage wildlife movement through those areas.

Also, consider your usage of the area when designing your food plot. If the food plot is designed for hunting purposes, archers may find smaller narrow plots more suitable to reduce shot distances. The width of plots may be less important to firearm hunters.

Some logging roads are great places for food plots if there is direct sun for at least four to six hours each day to provide adequate sunlight for plant growth. You may need to cut back the majority of the tall trees approximately 50 feet from the road, at least on one side of the road, to create adequate light. Placing the tops of these trees near game trails that cross the road may enhance the crossing spot, by providing additional cover. For smaller wildlife species, such as rabbits or game birds, placing food plots near wintertime escape cover is important.

Logging roads that run east/west are ideal for seeding because of increased sunlight. Photo by Mark Landefeld, Ohio State University Extension. This picture shows habitat successional stage 4, a young woodland. Photo by Mark Landefeld, Ohio State University Extension.

Providing Cover

If the goal in managing your property is to attract and keep certain wildlife species on your land, providing the right habitat is critical. All wildlife need food, water and ample cover to thrive. You will be most successful by determining the most limiting, or prominent need, for a selected wildlife species, and then providing it. The first step is to determine the stage of habitat available on your property. The stage of habitat identifies food and cover resources available to wildlife.

The successional stages of habitat are categorized by numbers one through five, and will change over a period of time, if left unattended:

• Stage 1 – Bare ground: will become vegetated and turn into a grass or weedy field
• Stage 2 – Weedy fields or a tall grass field: provides insects, seeds for food, forage, cover, and will become brushy with time if left uncut
• Stage 3 – The brushy stage: low growing shrubs or bushes that provide woody browse, a variety of berries, more seeds and trees start to grow
• Stage 4 – Young woodland: has relatively dense number of trees providing cover and food for many wildlife species
• Stage 5 – Mature woodland: larger trees with an open understory, provide a variety of nut trees, soft mast and cavity trees for nesting

Once you have determined the stages of habitat on your property, you can evaluate the available habitat resources and plan for those that are limited. Sometimes, enhancing cover and natural food sources (food plots can also be considered habitat) can make more difference in attracting wildlife than installing food plots alone. Single, small food plots have little impact on the overall food supply for wildlife, but creating thick, dense cover of brushy low growing shrubs or bushes, for example, may draw and keep white-tailed deer in a desired location. Wildlife biologists differ on amounts of “sanctuary,” or dense cover, areas for deer, but a minimum of 25 percent of your property area is usually recommended.

Management will help create wildlife habitat. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

An example of thick, dense cover for deer is 3 to 5 acre blocks of dense vegetation consisting of bushes, trees, briars and other woody vegetation that limits visibility beyond 50-60 yards. These areas, where little to zero human activity occurs, will create a secure bedding area and attract white-tailed deer. Providing quality cover like this should be a top priority if nothing like this currently exists on your property. Again, more is better regarding available space, so establishing multiple dense-cover, or sanctuary, areas is preferred.

If hunting is planned, strategically position food plots in relation to bedding areas to maximize success. Prevailing wind direction should be taken into account so the wind is not blowing from the hunter’s position directly to the bedding area. Normally, cross wind arrangements provide greater advantage for the hunter.

Hedgerows also provide important cover and food resources for many species of wildlife. A hedgerow is typically a line of closely-spaced trees, shrubs, vines and herbaceous plants that provide both food and cover. These structures often form along old fence rows, but may also be constructed where needed. Hedgerows serve as great wind breaks for wildlife in open areas and provide cover for small animals. Hedgerows also serve as travel corridors providing concealed travel areas for wildlife.

Encouraging Natural Foods

Increasing natural food production may be the most overlooked part of many landowners’ management plans. Raspberries, blackberries, apples, crabapples, nuts of all kinds, persimmons, elderberries, sumac, grapevines, dogwood, viburnum, and many other natural foods can provide enormous amounts of nutrition for wildlife if you manage them properly. Many of the above listed trees and shrubs can also be planted or encouraged in hedgerows and soft edges.

American crabapple producing fruit. Photo by Clif Little, Ohio State University Extension.

Within woodlands, a technique called Crop Tree Release can be used to enhance natural food sources for wildlife. A crop tree is one that a landowner wants to favor, or enhance, through the removal of less desirable trees around it. For example, an oak tree’s acorn production will increase as the tree’s crown size increases. To stimulate tree crown growth, a landowner can provide additional sunlight by cutting down, topping or girdling competitors that are overshadowing and reducing sunlight to the crop tree. Releasing crop trees to promote increased growth and food production should be part of a manager’s food enhancement plan.

For more information on crop tree release, see OSU fact sheet “Enhancing Food (Mast) Production for Woodland Wildlife in Ohio.” For this fact sheet, and others on woodland and wildlife management, visit the Ohio Woodland Stewards website at woodlandstewards.osu.edu.

Nutritional Considerations

Each species of wildlife requires a specific quantity and quality of nutrition to thrive in their environment. White-tailed deer, for example, will consume a mixture of grain, forbs (flowering plants), woody browse (leaves and twigs), fungi, grasses, and legumes in various quantities during different seasons of the year. This is necessary for quality antler production, maximum fawn conception, and winter survival. Because wildlife has such a diverse set of food requirements, providing something different, such as mast crops (acorns and other nuts), apples, fruits, berries or other foodstuff not available in your area, may be the best attractant. Remember, too, the length of growing season for each crop can vary greatly, so choose carefully to make crops available for wildlife consumption if you want them producing at a specific time of the season.

Many wildlife biologists classify wildlife food into one of three food categories: primary, secondary, and starvation or filler. To be the most beneficial for wildlife, food plots should consist of primary food species such as clovers and other legumes, large or small grains or brassicas, etc.

• Primary foods are consumed by the animal when unlimited supplies of many food varieties exist.
• Secondary foods are eaten by the animal when preferred primary foods do not exist, but staple items are instead available and regularly consumed.
• Starvation/filler foods are eaten by the animal to keep from starving to death when primary and secondary foods do not exist in adequate quantities.

On average, white-tailed deer consume food at a rate of 3 to 4 percent of their body weight each day, on a dry matter basis, which means measuring weight of food eaten without the water content. This amounts to more than 2000-3000 pounds of dry matter per year. To give you an idea of this quantity, an average acre of alfalfa in Ohio produce 6000-8000 pounds of hay during the growing season. The age of each deer and the season of the year also dictate the amount of food consumed. While supplying high quality forage year-round is needed to maximize growth potential of bucks and does, peak forage consumption occurs at different times during the year. Bucks tend to increase food consumption during antler development, while a doe consumes more feed during lactation. More information about this may be found by searching online for the Purdue University publication FNR-194 about food plots for white-tailed deer.

For an adult deer to simply maintain body condition, a diet of foods containing 6 to 10 percent protein is required. However, for yearling growth and mature buck antler development, the minimum average should be16 percent protein. Adult female deer require a diet of 11 to 15 percent protein during late gestation, but her requirement for optimum milk production may increase to 22 to 24 percent. Fawns, after weaning, require 16 to 22 percent protein for maximum growth. Plants to include in food plots will be included in the second fact sheet in this series.

While you often hear about protein content various plants can provide in food plots, high quantities of carbohydrates are also required in the deer diet. Individual requirements vary seasonally and by the animal’s life stage. Energy is needed to regulate body temperature, to promote growth activity, reproduction and body maintenance. While it is difficult to establish specific energy minimum requirements, mature does and adult bucks require about 25 kilocalories of digestible energy per day for each pound of body weight. This requirement can be higher at specific times, such as peak lactation for the doe or after the breeding season for bucks that have lost a lot of weight. To promote breeding success, does and bucks instinctively feed heavily on food with high carbohydrate levels before rutting activities begin to purposely build up fat reserves, a process called lipogenesis. Items such as acorns, corn and other grain crops provide high levels of carbohydrates that provide energy.

Palatability of the food source(s) should also be considered when trying to provide nutrition for wildlife. Plants may be very high in protein, but if they do not taste good they may be consumed only as a last resort. Also, forage quality generally deteriorates as plants mature during their growing season so manipulation by clipping or bush-hogging grass and legume plants in a food plot at the proper time, before the plant completely matures, helps maintain vegetative, high quality, high protein foods for wildlife consumption.

The next two fact sheets in this series will focus specifically on what and when to plant in the food plot, as well as the equipment needed to plant and care for your food plot. The third fact sheet identifies management strategies to care for the food plot for sustainability and environmental health.

There are an incredible number of broadheads on the market today, so choosing the best mechanical broadhead for your particular setup can be a daunting task.

My hope is that this article will help you narrow down your choices to a manageable number so that you can make a final decision based on your needs and the information at hand.

For hunting whitetail deer, our favorite is the G5 Deadmeat. If you prefer a more streamline 2-blade setup, then the Rage Hypodermic is going to be hard to beat.

If you’re looking specifically for a crossbow broadhead, we have a whole other article for that.

The G5 Deadmeat is our choice for the overall best mechanical broadhead. I am a big fan of G5 Outdoors and their American-made products.

The G5 checks all the boxes that make up a great expandable broadhead: it’s solid steel, features three blades with a 1 1/2-inch cutting diameter for maximum damage, and the Snap lock system keeps the blades in place to prevent pre-deployment.

The blades are rear-deploying, which we feel is a better design because they lose less energy during deployment, and the risk of deflection is less than with forward deploying blades.

In addition to its solid design, we like that the Deadmeat is offered in both 100 and 125 grains for those who may want a heavier setup. The three-pack of broadheads includes a Ballistic Match Point practice tip that matches the flight of the Deadmeat for easy practice without damaging your hunting broadheads.

If you want a solid expandable broadhead that hits hard and creates great blood trails, we highly recommend the G5 Deadmeat!

No one sells more broadheads annually than Rage, and I doubt any on the market kills more deer. That doesn’t necessarily mean they’re the best, but they have done a great job of marketing over the years.

Rage aren’t my favorite, but if I was going to shoot one it would be the standard two-blade Hypodermic.

The chisel tip, combined with the 2-inch cutting diameter should result in decent penetration, plenty of damage, and a short blood trail.

The rear deploying blades should minimize energy loss, and the improved shock collar technology ensures the blades stay in place until impact. We also like that this model Rage has a steel ferrule for maximum strength and durability.

The icing on the cake with these Rage broadheads is that you can often find them at a great price on Amazon. And despite what you may have heard, Rage broadheads are American-made.

I have personally used and killed deer with NAP Killzones. I really can’t say anything negative about them, other than I wished the long, tapered ferrule was steel rather than aluminum.

The Killzones are similar to the Rage discussed above in that they are rear deploying and feature a 2-inch cutting diameter.

What I like about the Killzone is that is features a spring clip design for blade deployment that eliminates the need for any rubber bands, clips or retainers. I also like the hardened trophy tip designed to split bone and get maximum penetration.

If you’re looking for a 2-blade mechanical broadhead with a decent cutting diameter, then the NAP Killzone may be the perfect option.

If it weren’t for the aluminum ferrule, we probably would have designated them as the Best Two Blade Mechanical Broadhead, but for now, the Rage Hypodermic gets that nod. You won’t go wrong with either, though.

While the G5 Deadmeat is our overall pick for best mechanical broadhead, their Megameat is a great option as well.

The Megameat features the same three-blade design, all steel construction, and Snap lock construction to keep the blades in place. The main difference is the larger 2-inch cutting diameter.

The reason we chose the Deadmeat over the Megameat is our belief that a 1.5-inch cutting diameter is ideal for a three-blade broadhead.

If you prefer a larger cutting diameter and have a bow setup that will give you a pass-thru every time, then the Megameat may be the perfect option for you. One thing is for sure, you can’t go wrong with a G5 product.

The Rage 2-Blade Chisel Tip is the second Rage expandable broadhead on our list, and the most popular option in the Rage’s extensive lineup of broadheads.

Like the Hypodermic, the Chisel Tip SC is 100 grain and features a 2-inch cutting diameter. The main difference is in the tip.

The Hypodermic has a longer, tapered tip that is part of the overall one-piece steel ferrule. The Chisel Tip has a unique, twisted chisel tip that is made for breaking through bone.

The reason we ranked this one below the Hypodermic is due to the weaker aluminum ferrule. Overall, though, this is still a great option.

Swhacker mechanical broadheads have a unique blade design with two separate cutting edges.

The smaller wing blades are designed to cut the hide and first set of ribs, with the idea that the main blades will still be razor-sharp once they deploy in the body cavity for maximum damage to internal organs.

In my mind, two weak points on the Swhacker are the aluminum ferrule and the rubber bands used to hold the blades closed in flight. However, I do like the fact that there is little chance of the blades not deploying due to the wing blade design.

And while they may not be my favorite broadhead, it’s hard to argue with a 4.7 out of 5 rating on Amazon. I also have mad respect for Levi Morgan as an archer and a bowhunter, and he is a big believer in Swhacker broadheads.

Our Top 3

Pros and Cons of Expandable Broadheads

Choosing the Perfect Broadhead

All the broadheads discussed above are well known, highly rated, and should fly like your field points if your bow is properly tuned. You can’t go wrong with any of them.

I’ve shot all of them myself with good results, although I now prefer fixed blade broadheads for deer.

If you’re having a hard time narrowing down your choice among these options, here are the most important features to consider:

Broadhead Weight

Most mechanical broadheads are going to come in either 85, 100, 125 or 150 grains, with 100 grains being the most common. Any of these will work effectively. It’s really a matter of your overall arrow or bolt setup as to which weight you choose.

If you’re just going with a standard mid-weight arrow setup, then I’d recommend sticking with a 100 grain broadhead because they are readily available and will get the job done. However, if you’re like me and prefer a heavier arrow setup with a little higher FOC, then a 125 or even a 150 grain may be your best bet.

Even if you like a heavier setup, you can always use a 100 grain mechanical and add weight with a heavier brass insert or insert weight.

Two Blade vs Three Blade Broadheads

In your quest to find the perfect option, you may wonder if you should you shoot a two or three blade broadhead.

First off, let me say that either of those options will get the job done. Like most things in life, there’s tradeoffs to each option.

A two-blade broadhead is going to have less resistance, so it will be more likely to pass thru an animal. The tradeoff to that reduced resistance and increased penetration is less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

Three blade broadheads, on the other hand, should produce a larger wound channel and better blood trail. And while they will have more resistance than a two-blade, as long as you’re shooting a heavy enough arrow setup, and/or enough poundage on your bow, penetration shouldn’t be an issue.

Cutting Diameter

Cutting diameter is another important factor when choosing a broadhead. Similar to the blade number discussion above, cutting diameter will impact penetration and the subsequent blood trail.

A smaller cutting diameter will have less resistance and will be more likely to pass through, but it will also create a smaller wound channel. That smaller hole will me less overall tissue damage and a smaller blood trail.

That leaves you having to strike a balance between getting a solid pass-thru shot and still inflicting as much damage as possible for a good, short blood trail.

Other factors in that decision will be your bow setup and overall arrow setup. If you shoot a lower poundage, short draw length, or a light arrow setup, then you will want to err on the side of smaller cutting diameter to ensure a pass-thru shot.

My preference is a 1 1/2-inch to 2-inch maximum cutting diameter from a mechanical broadhead.

Final Thoughts

Choosing the best mechanical broadhead can be challenging. There are tons of options on the market today, and all of them will kill a deer with proper shot placement.

That’s not to say, however, that some options aren’t much better than others. To narrow down your choice, use the factors outlined above, and you should find one or more great options from our list above.

Ultimately, you won’t go wrong with any of the options listed above, but hopefully this article will help you find the best mechanical broadhead for your specific needs.

In the firearms industry it seems there is always a “trend” that is accepted as the state of the art for a period of time and then something else will come along and replace it. Right now aluminum bedding blocks seem to be the “trend”. I recently posted our views on the ABB so I won’t get into that today but there is a related trend I think needs to be addressed. “Pillar Bedding” or bedding using aluminum pillars.

First a little history: Many years ago when wood stocks ruled the world there was very few things that would improve the accuracy of a rifle as much as “glass bedding” would. Almost no factory guns came bedded and most shot barely acceptable. Glass bedding usually enhanced the accuracy as well as increased the dependability by limiting the effects of humidity and water which played havoc with point of impact (POI). By using an epoxy based product that was reinforced with some fiberglass, thus the term glass bedding, one could form a much better mating surface between the stock and the receiver. By reducing or eliminating any stresses caused by poorly match surfaces it allowed the rifle to shoot more consistently.

In the benchrest community they found that by torquing both guard screws with a torque wrench they could actually tune the way the gun would shoot. They were constantly checking the toque, between matches and even between groups, and most found that the more they shot the rifle, the more the amount of torque would decrease. They reasoned that the stock must be compressing some due to the pressure and stress associated with shooting. As a result they drilled out the holes around the guard screws to the next larger size (usually from 5/16 to 3/8 or 1/2 inch.) When bedding the action they would allow these larger holes to fill up with bedding material. After removing the screws (of course they waxed them first) they would then drill out the screw hole to 5/16th for some clearance, but that would in effect leave a pillar of 1/16 to 3/16” wall thickness of bedding material. The bedding material was dense and rigid so it made a nice pillar that would keep the stock from compressing under the pressure of 40-60lbs of torque, plus the stress of firing the rifle.

Not long after the pillar bedding process was developed, fiberglass stocks came onto the scene. While benchrest shooters were convinced that pillar bedding had a positive effect on the accuracy of their rifles they assumed that the same process would help to improve accuracy of a fiberglass stocked rifle. The process quickly adapted itself to “glass” stocks.

When Chet Brown and Lee Six first introduced fiberglass stocks to the competitive world in the late ’60’s, they used a process that left the stock with a “foam” core. The stocks were made of fiberglass cloth outer shells with the action area and barrel channels actually molded during the initial process. They would use a low density urethane foam to expand the material from the inside and force it out against the walls of the mold to form the gun stock. As a result between the receiver area and the bottom of the stock (where the guard screws are) there was a foam core. The foam was light weight to keep the weight of the stock within reason and when cured was rigid (unlike polystyrene of foam rubber) but had very little compression strength. In short order it was found that pillars were absolutely required in order to keep from compressing the stock when tightening the guard screws.

As a general rule, the same procedure was used to make the pillars as was used with wood stocks. Simply drill the guard screw holes over size and fill them up with bedding material. The draw back to this technique was that occasionally there would be some excessive shrinkage in the bedding material due to the volume of bedding compound that flowed down around the screws. Though this resulted in a less than perfect job from a cosmetic stand point, it had no adverse effect on the performance of the bedding. When guys like my father and Wally Hart and Fred Sinclair started to take on this type of work for their fellow competitors they felt a need to produce a better looking job and the use of precut aluminum pillars was introduced. More on the technical information on aluminum pillars in Part two.

When Gale McMillan introduced his fiberglass stocks in 1973 they were made in pretty much the same manner as the brown stocks. Urethane foam was a major component and this pillar bedding was a main ingredient in all benchrest stocks he made. Gale only made benchrest stocks for the first two years he was in business. Due to the weight limitations in benchrest, light stocks were a must and the materials used were not nearly as strong as they could have been in a stock weighing much more. Pillar bedding was one way to make up for their lack of strength in the receiver area.

Stay tuned for part two on November 2nd!

Can you name all the parts of a compound bow?

Check out our interactive diagram below to test your knowledge!

You might be new to the sport of bowhunting and be looking to learn all you can about it.

Or, maybe you are a seasoned bowhunter wanting to test your knowledge.

Either, way this one’s for you!

In the interactive diagram below, you can click/touch the NUMBER of the parts in the chart below to reveal the names of each item. You can read more about what each part is and does in the sections below the diagram. See how many you can get right!

Interactive Parts of A Compound Bow Diagram

Compound Bow Parts | Piece-By-Piece

In the above diagram of the Nexus2 by Prime Archery, you can view the parts of a compound bow. Find out more about what each part does by clicking the words below:

1. Cams
2. Limb Dampeners
3. Limbs
4. Limb Pivot
5. Limb Pocket
6. Limb Bolt
7. Riser
8. Sight Mounts
9. Cable Guard
10. Rest Mounts
11. Arrow Shelf
12. Stabilizer Mount
13. Axle
14. String Splitter
15. Cables
16. String
17. Serving
18. Nocking Point
19. Grip
20. String Stop
21. Cable Splitter
22. Axle-To-Axle Length
23. Brace Height

1. Cams

On a compound bow, the cams are the round, or oval-shaped discs that work much like a block-and-tackle pulley system. The cams are connected to the axles of the bow.

The cams act as the “multiplier” of the energy of the person pulling the bow string. This allows the bow to store more energy than the person pulling the bow string is actually exerting.

The bow has a “back wall” where the cams will not turn any more. This is where the archer is at “full draw.” At this point, there is a percentage of “letoff” that allows the archer or hunter to hold the force of the bow at a fraction of the actual pounds of pull being exerted.

For example, a bow that is set to a 70-lb draw weight with a 70% letoff will only take 21 lbs of force to hold at full draw. The energy is stored in the bow’s limbs until the archer releases, which unleashes the multiplied energery, propelling the arrow toward its target.

So, the cams of the bow are what change the bow in essence from a traditional bow to a compound bow.

2. Limb Dampeners

Limb dampeners reduce the noise and vibration throughout the limbs and riser of the bow.

When the hunter or archer releases the arrow the sudden and powerful uncoiling of the string on the cams produces vibration, which causes noise. The limb dampeners help to absorb that vibration, resulting in a quieting of the bow.

This absorption by the limb dampeners is especially helpful in reducing noise when hunting deer or other wild game and also reduces the amount of vibration that is transferred to the archer.

3. Limbs

A compound bow’s limbs are connected to the riser and store the energy that is collected when the string is pulled and the cams turn. When the string is released, the energy from the limbs is transferred to the arrow, which propels it through the air.

Most compound bow limbs are made up of fiberglass or composite material. Some bow limbs are solid, one-piece limbs. Others are “split,” having a gap between both sides of the upper and lower limbs.

4. Limb Pivot

Where the limbs pivot and flex on the riser.

5. Limb Pocket

The limbs of the bow rest in the limb pocket. These can be made of machined aluminum, ABS plastic or other composite materials. The limbs of the bow are secured in the limb pocket by the limb bolts.

6. Limb Bolt

The limb bolt is the crucial piece in connecting the limb pockets, which hold the limbs of the bow, to the riser.

Limb bolts are typically allen wrenc adjustable. Tightening the limb bolts increases the draw weight poundage of the bow. Loosening the limb bolts will decrease the draw weight poundage.

It’s very important that any adjustment to the limb bolts be made in the same increments. If the adjustments are uneven, the bow’s cams could get out of time, causing an improper tune.

If you need to adjust your bow’s draw weight, it’s a good idea to back the limb bolts all the way down and then start moving them both up the same amount.

7. Riser

The riser is the vertical portion and foundation of a compound bow. The limbs attach to it and it also serves as the fastening point for accessories such as the sight, arrow rest, grip, stabilizer, quiver, etc.

8. Sight Mounts

Sight mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s sight. The archer will look through the peep on the bow string and at the pin(s) of the sight to aim at the target or game animal.

9. Cable Guard

The Cable guard runs perpendicular to the bow’s riser. It keeps the bow’s cable out of the way of the arrow’s line of fire. It typically has rollers and/or slides attached to it to aid in keeping the cable on track.

10. Rest Mounts

Rest mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s rest. The rest is what holds the arrow in place while the archer is drawing and releasing the arrow.

There are many different types of rests. Some use prongs that the arrow will rest on, while others hold the arrow up and then fall out of the way when the arrow is released. Others, called containment rests, completely surround the arrow until it is fired and typically have no moving parts.

11. Arrow Shelf

The arrow shelf is the area of the riser where the arrow sits on the rest. While the rest typically holds the arrow off the shelf on compound bows, traditional bows (non-compound) usually have the arrow resting directly on the arrow shelf.

12. Stabilizer Mount

The stabilizer mount is a universal size threaded hole in the riser that is used to attach a stabilizer to.

The stabilizer helps balance and thus “stabilize” the bow when drawing and shooting, and also typically has vibration dampening properties. In essence, it helps the bow resist movement during the draw cycle and when shooting.

The back of the stabilizer also typically serves as the fastening point for the wrist sling.

13. Axle

The Axle is what holds the cams, in the same way a car axle holds its wheels. The cams have a hole in the center. The axle goes through the center of the axle and attach to the limbs.

14. String Splitter

Bows with parallel limbs (which eliminate cam lean) will have a string splitter. On these types of bows, the main part of the string that the archer attaches the release to “splits” just before the cams.

The splitter is what essential turns the single string into two strings, each going around its respective cam.

15. Cables

The cable(s) runs between the bow’s cams. They assist in moving the cams of the bow when the string is pulled back by the archer. It’s important to replace your cable(s) as well as your string as recommended per the bow manufacturer’s instructions or on the advice of your local bow shop.

16. String

The string serves several functions. It is where the archer will connect their release. It is what the archer pulls (or draws) back and releases to launch the arrow.

Many archers will utilize a “D loop,” which attaches to the bow string and serves as a way to quickly attach the release to the string and also improves accuracy.

You should always inspect your string before and after shooting and hunting. A damaged string could end up being a broken string, which could result in serious injury to the shooter or others.

Any cuts or fraying should be addressed immediately and it is recommended that you take to your local bow shop for an assessment.

17. Serving

The “center serving” is coiled thread wrapped around the center portion of your string where you would nock an arrow and attach a D-loop. The center serving protect the center section of the string from wear and tear that results from nocking arrows as well as drawing and shooting the bow.

There is also serving material on areas of your bow string that go around the cams or through rollers that are attached to the cable guards. This helps the bow string stay together, especially in places that are likely to received the most friction.

18. Nocking Point

The nocking point is where the arrow, by way of the arrow nock, attaches to the bow string. The D-loop attaches above and below the nocking point.

19. Grip

The grip is the part of the bow that you hold while shooting. Grips are made of various materials such as wood, rubber, plastic, metal, etc.

The grip can also be a source of inaccuracy. For example, if you hold the grip too tightly, or twist the grip while shooting, you can cause your arrow to go off-course from where you were aiming.

20. String Stop

String vibration is a large cause for noise when a bow fires. A string stop helps dampen that vibration and thus reduces unwanted noise. The string stop is a rubber part that is often mounted on a post that is directly opposite of the front stabilizer.

The string stop not only helps dampen vibration, but also aids in better accuracy for the shooter, often resulting in tighter arrow groups at the target.

21. Cable Splitter

On some bows, the cable splitter is a ring that connects the cable to two separate cables, thus dampening vibration and noise of the cable during shooting.

22. Axle-To-Axle Length

“Axle-to-axle” is not a part of a compound bow, but rather a reference to measurement. Axle-to-axle is the measurement from the center of one cam to the other. The axles go through the center of the cams.

This axle-to-axle measurement is often used to determine how forgiving the bow will be in regards to arrow flight accuracy when taking farther shots.

A bow with a longer axle-to-axle height may be more forgiving that a shorter one, but may also be difficult to maneuver in tight-quarter hunting scenarios.

23. Brace Height

The “brace height” is not a part of the bow, but rather a measurement, in inches, of the distance between the “throat” of the grip to the center of the bow’s string.

A shorter brace height means a longer “power stroke,” which is the distance from the grip to the center of the string when the archer is at full draw. A longer power stroke typically means a faster bow, as it increases the amount of time that the arrow is attached to the string.

Parts Of A Compound Bow Conclusion

Whether you are just a beginner bowhunter or looking to brush up on your bow component knowledge, we hope this has been a helpful tool for you!

Deer archery is the same as statewide season on a number of Wildlife Management Areas. Increased opportunities to archery hunt on WMAs and liberal bag limits means there has never been a better year to archery hunt white-tailed deer in Oklahoma. With so many places to choose from, we’ve rounded up the top WMAs for archery hunting whitetail deer in each region to help you get started. And as you head into the field this year, remember that Hunters in the Know … Take a Doe!

Beaver River WMA/wildlifedepartment.com

Northwest

Less than 100 miles northwest of Oklahoma City is Canton WMA. Its 14,877 acres surround the majority of Canton Lake known for excellent walleye fishing. Canton WMA has a lot to offer Oklahoma bowhunters. Much of the area adjacent to Canton Lake and the North Canadian River is a densely vegetated bottomland habitat. Primitive camping is available at designated areas along most access roads on the area. Additionally, developed campgrounds with RV hookups are available around Canton lake. Contact the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers for more information on the developed campground sites.

Ft. Supply WMA and Cooper WMA are just 8 miles from Woodward and surprisingly don’t receive a lot of attention from bowhunters. The river bottom consists of cottonwood, American elm, hackberry and eastern red cedar, giving bowhunters excellent options for ground or treestand hunting. A bonus is the proximity of these areas to Woodward, which offers hunters who aren’t into “roughing it” the chance to grab a hot meal and sleep in a warm bed.

Beaver River WMA covers a sprawling 17,700 acres in western Beaver County. From the eastern boundary, a hunter would have to walk more than 15 miles to reach the western boundary. Near the southern border lies the Beaver River. Pockets of river bottom hardwoods can be bustling with deer activity. These pockets are great for the hunter who doesn’t have a tree stand or blind and simply uses natural vegetation as cover.

Cookson WMA/Photo by Jena Donnell

Northeast

Both Cookson WMA and Cherokee PHA/GMA were previously closed to archery hunting from the opening day of muzzleloader through deer gun season. Now, archery hunting is the same as statewide season dates, giving archery hunters an additional 6 weeks of hunting. (Some weekends are closed for controlled hunts only). These 2 areas combined offer more than 46,000 acres giving archery hunters lots of space to roam.

Hulah WMA is in the heart of big deer country. This WMA is vast, covering more than 16,000 acres in Osage County. In Oklahoma, Osage county holds the record for most bucks harvested during the archery season with 681 bucks during the 2019-20 season. Hulah WMA is often overlooked as hunters focus on leasing private land in Osage county.

James Collins WMA/Photo by Jena Donnell

Southeast

Three Rivers and Honobia Creek WMAs are a popular spot for gun hunters. In fact, Three Rivers WMA had the second-highest harvest totals for the 2019-20 deer gun season, and the highest deer harvest totals overall (archery, muzzleloader and gun). So what does that mean for archery hunters? Early access to one of the top destinations for whitetail hunting.

Ouachita WMA is always a great destination, but be warned, this WMA is not for the faint of heart. Covering 232,000 acres of remote and rugged forest land of the Ouachita mountain foothills, this will not be an easy hunt but it will be rewarding.

Atoka WMA is unique in that it is part of a chain of public hunting land. To the east is the Atoka Public Hunting (PHA) area bordered to the south by Stringtown WMA and McGee Creek WMA. With so many public areas sharing borders, it is like a public land supergroup.

James Collins WMA has a reputation for producing trophy bucks, meaning it can get crowded. Our advice is to carve out some weekday trips to avoid weekend crowds. Take some time to scout the area, and be ready to hunt the week prior to opening deer gun season. Crowds are smaller, and deer are beginning to move. But even if you can’t do that, James Collins is still a great option for those who intend to hunt archery during the statewide gun season, since the area is closed to gun hunting.

Sandy Sanders WMA/Photo by Jena Donnell

Southwest

The Black Kettle Wildlife Management Area is contained in the Black Kettle National Grassland. It is one of Oklahoma’s most popular public hunting areas. More than 100 scattered units make up the 30,710 acres, also making it the largest WMA in western Oklahoma. Archery hunting on this WMA has its challenges and requires a lot of planning and scouting. But ask any bowhunter who has been hunting here, it is well worth it.

Waurika WMA offers bowhunters the chance to hunt without the noise and pressure from gun hunters. Except for a controlled hunt, this area is closed to rifle hunting, making it a perfect destination for bowhunters to hunt during the rut. Just be sure to check the regulations as the area could be closed for it’s controlled hunt.

Packsaddle WMA has grown in popularity over the last decade and for good reason. Great deer management has not only produced a healthy deer herd, but also nice sized bucks. The success found at Packsaddle has not gone untold, however. A great time to bow hunt the area is after the 9 day gun season when the crowds have left and the deer are still active.

Sandy Sanders WMA in southwest Oklahoma is quiet, rugged, and remote. It’s the perfect spot for any bowhunter looking for a unique Oklahoma hunting experience. Some hunters enjoy Sandy Sanders because they have opportunities to use “spot and stalk” hunting techniques.

Note: See the “Public Hunting Lands Special Area Regulations” section of the Oklahoma Hunting Guide for more information.

Need a Hunting License?