Fishing for a trout has always seemed complicated, especially for those who are only planning to engage in this fun-filled recreational activity. However, it is not just all about fun. It is also a combination of knowledge, skills, determination, and mostly patience.Setting up fishing rigs and lines is the number one problem that can test an angler’s patience. There are a lot of variations of fishing lines and rigs that only a few can probably name.Regardless, we can always choose to make fishing a simple activity and not so complicated. That is why the internet can indeed be your ultimate best friend.This article will introduce to you the different steps to set up your trout rig and line.

Our Fishing Gears on Sale

Trout, What Is It?

A trout is a generic term used for several freshwater species. The trout is closely related to the Salmon family. Each trout can survive differently from one another. In line with that, variations of the trout can be found anywhere.

Some live in freshwater lakes and rivers, such as the lake trout. Others, notably the Rainbow Trout, can switch from living in the sea to inhabiting freshwaters. Due to the difference in habitat and environment, trouts also differ in their colors and patterns.

These colors are often acknowledged as camouflaging, in which a trout changes in color depending on the environment it is living in. What is impressive about the trout is that it changes colors if they migrate to a different place or environment.

It can be hard to determine the specific breed of trout based on their colors and look. Also, it can be challenging how to catch these trouts. Some trouts are rare to find, while some, on the other hand, can just be caught around the corners.

Before you can cast your line in the water and hang tight for a trout bite, there are many things that you ought to have as a primary concern as far as prior information. One of the prime things to know is the habitat and tendencies of the trout fish itself.

Keep in mind, your odds of winning a catch rely basically upon your capacity to pass judgment on trout behavior and afterward setting up a fishing rig and line in like manner.

Main Species Of Trout

There are three major species of trout that fishers catch, and each has its unique characteristics. These are the Brown, Brook, and Rainbow Trout.

Apart from these three, the wildcard steelhead is also known to be the same as the rainbow trout. It lives in the ocean or lakes before it spawns in the freshwater or smaller tributaries.

Meanwhile, the rainbows produce a silvery color on them. This habit, also seen in salmon, makes them a must-have catch, especially among anglers.

Know Your Trout

Because of the trouts’ ability to survive across various water and current conditions vary in their shading and skin patterns. It is intriguing to realize that a wide range of trout types exist, depending upon the external conditions that they are opened to.

Below are some quick facts to help you with acquainting yourself with this exciting fish:

• • • • What do they look like? The appearance of the trout fish differs over the various species. Since these fish take after the salmon family, trout itself develops to huge sizes, ensuring an extraordinary attraction for fishers and anglers in the area.
      • Trout typically have moles like imprints and their bodies, whose size and color differ from species to species. Rainbow trout are generally touched with silver, while brown-colored trout are actually what their name proposes, but with reddish spots along their length.
      • Trout fish habitat: trout are normally found in freshwater bodies, for example, lakes, and rivers, with certain species having the option to withstand the high salt content of the ocean. Trout prefer moving waterways that are colder and choose to live in calmer, less frequented zones.
      • Eating patterns: trout are known to eat various bugs (mainly aquatic insects), crustaceans, worms, and leeches. Bigger-sized trout are likewise known to feed upon smaller fish!

Where Can You Find The Trout?

You can find the trout in moving and cold water. Trout can be found in the rivers and creeks, and they love to run up and down in these locations.Trout is one of the commonly stocked game species, and it can also be found in lakes (like another species, the Lake Trout). Indeed, trout can be dropped in ponds, streams, and anywhere.Trout can grow up to massive size and swim into the ocean. They sometimes feed smaller fish in the lake. Sometimes, they eat salmon spawn and raid their beds.Amazingly, trout is also one of the accessible food for wild animals. As such, you can see it in the woods, for they are considered the Bobcats, bears, and other animals’ food.The more remote the lake or river is, the more likely you can find a trout in the water. With this, trout fishing is considered one of the best activities for anglers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The Beauty Of Trout Fishing

Without a doubt, trouts are among the most magnificent freshwater creatures that have ever prevailed in bodies of water. There are four major species of trout that are often sought after by anglers.

The Brook trout, commonly referred to as the speckled trout, is considered the easiest to catch. Meanwhile, the Cutthroat Trout (“Cutthroat” because of red-orange slash marks on their throats) dominantly occupies the country’s western part. Finally, the Rainbow and Brown Trout are both found in rivers or streams.

Setting Up The Rig

Well, all you need to figure out is your trout rig and how to set up your line. If you are wondering what the term “Rig” stands for, it is relatively simple. A rig is a term used to define the combination or arrangement of equipment or things used for fishing. A rig may be attached to a rod, carried by hand, or mounted on a boat.

How To Set Up A Trout Rig And Line?

When you get an overall idea of what the trout fish resembles, your goal of getting a fine example effectively turns out to be a lot simpler. Your best course of action is to exhibit your knowledge and set up your fishing rig and fishing line.

There are many and numerous ways on how to set up a trout rig. But, the steps and ways following this are by far the best ones out there. It has been tested and proven to catch a satisfying number of trouts.

The Things Needed For Trout Rig Setup

A rig is a group of fishing gear needed for making a decent catch. Here is a quick rundown of things that you would need to set up your fishing things and permit the fishing to progress.

• • • Fishing Rod and Reel – If you do not have one yet, you can start by purchasing an affordable pick at any fishing shop near you.
    • Fishing Line – Usually, if you buy yourself a pair of fishing rods and fishing reel, the fishing line already comes with. If there are none, provide yourself with some fishing line at about 5-10 lb test fishing line. Next, spool it in the fishing reel. Ensure that your fishing line is neat and all set for trout hunting for those who already have. Ensure that there are no tangles or flaws inside the reel, or else it would significantly affect your trout adventure.
    • A Set of Hooks – For trout fishing, the best hooks to use are sizes 4-12.
    • Bobbers – A basic bobber will do. Just make sure that the bobber is big enough to prevent the split shot and hook and bait from sinking into the water.
    • Sinkers – This is the exact opposite of the bobbers. The sinkers’ weight should be light enough. So, that if it is attached to the bobber, it will not drag the bobber down.
    • Bait -Freshly picked worms can already work well for what we are about to do. But, other options also include using crickets or Berkely trout worms.

The Steps In Setting Up The Trout Rig

1. 1. 1. Start with tying the fishing hook to the end of the fishing line. To this, you can use a basic knot to attach it to the line. It is best to use an Improved Clinch knot or Palomar Knot for better performance.
      2. Next, insert a line from one end of the split shot going out to the other end. Make sure that it is at a distance of 10-15 cm above the hook.
      3. The next thing to do is attach the bobber or float at the tip of the fishing line. This is quickly done by inserting the line through both the top and bottom metal hooks. Always remember that it is essential that the fishing line runs around the bobber or float. Moreover, both hooks should keep the bobber or float anchored or stationary.

There you have it. In only three easy steps, you have now set up an effective way for successful trout fishing.

Best Trout Fishing Rigs You Can Get To Know

1. Sinking Bait Trout Fishing Rig

A sinking bait rig is a ticket when trout plunges to the lake’s bottoms to look for the colder waters during warm days. All you require for a sinking bait rig is a slip sinker, swivel, hook, and bait.

What You Need:

• • • slip sinker
    • swivel
    • hook
    • bait

How To Setup A Sinking Bait Trout Rig

First, rig a slip sinker and slide the eye of a slip sinker on the end of your fishing line. Next, tie a swivel to the end of the line to prevent losing the sinker. On the opposite end of the swivel, attach a 12-18″ piece of fishing line and attach your hook. Preferably a fishing line that is a somewhat lesser pound test than your mainline, that way, if your line breaks, it is just at the end of your rig.

With this arrangement, a trout will have the option to take the bait without feeling the sinker’s resistance. Likewise, you do not have a visual marker on the surface with this arrangement. Subsequently, it is ideal for saving a finger on the line to feel for any bites. You can likewise intently watch the fishing line to distinguish any movement.

2. Float Fishing Rig For Trout (Bobber Fishing Rig)

In case you have not tested it or might want a substantially more visual style of trout fishing, try the thrill of fishing for trout with a bobber. Nothing beats the excitement of watching your bobber start to move a lot over the water, then rapidly dive under the water’s surface by a trout.

While a slip bobber trout rig takes somewhat more work than a basic clip on a bobber, the slip bobber is a substantially more flexible and powerful rig for trout fishing. This is particularly obvious in deeper lakes. But, a clip-on bobber could be similarly useful in catching trout in a shallow stream or waterway.

What You Need:

• • • slip bobber or clip-on bobber
    • bobber stop (for slip bobber)
    • swivel
    • Hook

How To Set Up A Bobber Rig For Trout

A slip-bobber rig works like the previously mentioned slip-sinker rig. To start, take a bobber stop that is incorporated with most slip bobbers available and string it onto the end of your fishing line. This will fill in as a movable point to stop your bobber.

By sliding this up and down the line, you can fish your lure suspended in the water, basically as deep as you need.

After the bobber stop, slide on your bobber and tie on a swivel to prevent it from sliding off your line. Much the same as the sinker arrangement, tie on a 12-18″ segment of fishing line and attach your hook.

At the point when you cast, you’ll just be managing your bobber and this short segment of the line, regardless of really fishing your lure a lot further to the point of your bobber stopping.

3. Lure Rig For Trout Fishing

This might be the easiest, and now and again, the best trout rig of all! It’s easy to set up as there are not close to the same number of segments to stress over compared with the bait fishing rig and bobber rig.

When using a lure to look for trout, you can keep it as easy as tying the lure right onto the end of your line if that is all you have. In any case, because of the lures spinning movement, this may place turns in your line that might decrease the breaking quality of the line or even cause a significant tangled wreck.

What You Need:

• • • Variety of trout lures
    • Swivel (optional)
    • Leader line

How To Setup A Lure Fishing Trout Rig

The preferable strategy for connecting a trout fishing lure is to tie a clip swivel to your line’s furthest limit and attach your lure to that. Not exclusively, it will lessen line twists. Likewise, it will consider a more reasonable presentation and make it simpler to change out between lures. By rapidly rotating through lures, you can rapidly figure out what the trout will like to eat at that given time.

For Trolling, these jet divers are a Great Replacement for outriggers and heavy lead ball sinkers.

How To Setup A Fishing Line?

Since you now have an idea of setting up a trout fishing rig, your next job includes the crucial need to have a strong grasp on the most proficient method to set up a fishing line.

Same as with the trout rig, there are many selections to choose from when it comes to setting up your fishing line. Particularly for trout fishing. But, this article will show you one of the basic fishing line setups there is. Yet, even though it is basic, it is still the most effective and reliable way to set up a fishing line for trout fishing.

The Things Needed For Fishing Line Setup

• • • Your fishing hooks and fishing line

The Steps In Setting Up The Fishing Line

1. 1. Attach the hook to the fishing line. Tie the Hook onto the Fishing Line. To do so, grab the tip of your fishing line and loop it in the tiny hole on your hook. Upon grabbing the end of the fishing line, you have already entered the hook. Twist that end to the mainline about nine times.
   2. Loopback. After you have twisted it about nine times, loop it in the tiny hole of the hook again. But, this time, on the opposite side of the hook’s hole from the first time, you have looped it in.
   3. Tighten. Once you have looped the fishing line in, pull the mainline (the longer part) to snug the twists tightly.
   4. Remove the excess line. Then, cut the extra hanging line on the other end of the fishing line closer to the hook.
   5. Prepare the line. The next steps would be the same as the ones when you are setting up your trout rig. Insert the weight, followed by the bobber, and so and so forth.

There you have it! A simple yet effective way to ensure a fishing line for a good trout adventure. Before heading out to look for some trout, read some of the tips, we have for trout fishing.

Common Things Used When Trout Fishing

Rainbow trout grow up to 12 inches long, and you can use an ultralight tackle for this type of fish. You can use a spinning reel, light/ ultralight action rod, and a 4-8 lb test fluorocarbon line for standard trout fishing.

Always remember these two important rules when trout fishing:

1. Stocked trout needs power bait.
2. Trout that measures over one-foot long cut insects and flies from their diet. These will not break or make the bite, but they can affect the type of trout you hook unto it.

Powerbait such as trout marshmallows or any dough bait substitute to imitate fish pellets is not a good choice for the native type of trout. Stocked trouts that grew in hatcheries and farms are being fed with fish pellets. Dough baits and power baits are created to imitate the fish pellets’ scent, texture, and size. However, if you wish to catch native trouts, they will be clueless about the glob of dough that floats in front of them.

Sometimes, you may get a bite because the trouts can be curious. However, native trouts are not conditioned to eat the pellets.

If you wish to catch bigger trouts like the brooks, browns, and steelhead, make sure to avoid the mayfly and fly. Trouts may sometimes occasionally eat small insects like flies, but they eat worms, smaller fishes, and shrimps most of the time.

Now, if you wish to imitate those trout meals when fishing, follow these tips:

Tips To Remember When Trout Fishing

• Learn the Rules. Before heading out to fish for some trouts, the first important tip is to be aware of your location’s rules and regulations. There are certain rules and regulations when it comes to fishing. Some rules from one state or place may be different from the other. So, to be sure, always remember to check the rules.
• Have Your Equipment Ready. If you have no fishing equipment yet available, you can look for some affordable fishing gear at fishing shops. However, fishing equipment’s logic is that the pricier the gear is, the durable, reliable, and high-quality. Of course, you also need to weigh if the price is reasonable or not.
• Know the Perfect Location. It is important to determine the location you are going to fish to. You cannot just choose some random lake and expect to catch your desired number of fish. To save your time and effort, it is best always to double-check the best places to fish.
• Check for Weather Updates. This goes hand in hand when choosing the perfect location. Checking the weather forecast can save you time, money, and energy.
• Baiting Your Hook Properly. One of the most common mistakes of anglers is the way they hook their baits. Some think that everything is set once the bait is hooked. As a matter of fact, the right way to hook your bait is to let the bait follow the hook’s shape. So, you have to fill in the bait body with the shape of the hook. This is to make sure that the fish never gets away.

Those who have a messy strategy of baiting their hook will unavoidably confront the more getting away from trout, alongside lost bait.

The ideal approach to hook is to ensure that the hook goes the entire body of the bait so the trout cannot swim away after detaching the untethered, floating bits of bait.

You can consider these little things that would permit you to meet with more prominent success as you set up a trout fishing rig and fishing line.

Common Lures For Trout Fishing

To lure the trouts into your baits, you must put a type of food they use to eat. If you are going trout fishing, be sure to have at least one of these lures:

Cranks

Crankbaits may not be every angler’s first choice when trout fishing. However, big trouts will hit crankbaits, especially those who are 1/3 or ½ of their size.

Trout has sharp teeth, and they don’t have any problem eating whole portions of big baits. They can tear it into pieces and swallow it.

Critters

Critters like beetles, grasshoppers, bugs, and crickets fall into the streams and rivers with trouts all the time. As such, trouts used to see these critters and eat them. If you try drowning grasshoppers or imitators in the current, surely the trouts will go after it.

Powerbait

Dough bait can be called power bait by any trout angler. If there are trouts anywhere in the area, you can have a few power bait colors to ball up, put into a hook, and give a go.

Salmon Eggs

Trouts are known as notorious scavengers—the raid on spawning beds of fishes to feed their eggs.

You can cut one belly open, put it into a size six hook, and trouts will feed on it.

Spinners

Rooster tails and spinners are some of the best lures for trouts all over the world. You can change it easily in and out on a swivel and get bit by trouts anywhere in the lake. Their flapping blades can be added to a river current.

Spoons

Flashy spoons and those tipped with feathers and wax worms are an effective lure for trouts throughout the year.

They live in colder weather when the bite slows down. Their flashiness entices into a bite and annoys the trouts.

Swimbaits

Bigger trouts love to eat smaller baitfish. One of the best techniques you can try is eating baitfish, paddle tail, a swimbait to disrupt the column.

Tubes

The tubes imitate zooplankton that fishes eat under the sea. They can be instrumental when trout fishing, so always keep them at your tackle box.

Worm Imitators

One of the most basic trout-catching lures is the worms. Live worms can get bit by every fish under the sea.

Some downsized and soft plastic worms can be a great option, too, for the trout. Make sure to choose bright color worms so trout can detect it underwater, even in rivers and lakes.

Important Notes

Always remember to enjoy your trout adventure. Some days will be bad, and other days will be amazingly worth it. Also, trout fishing is a matter of discovering your inner happiness. You are challenged in different ways that, sometimes, most of these tips will not save you from that scenario.Nonetheless, continue to learn and develop your skills when it comes to fishing. It is only a matter of dedication and passion to which one can truly bask in the glory of catching these aquatic species. I hope that these tips may work for you well, as it has worked for me.Keep in mind that knowledge and strategy go inseparably, and to appreciate more achievement, you should practice perfecting both!

Our Fishing Gears on Sale

Want to know the easiest way to catch a big freshwater fish? Put a worm on a hook, attach a few weights, and then bomb that sucker out into the fishiest looking spot you can find. Then, all you need to do is get comfortable and wait.

Fishing With Live Worms: High Passion, Low Production

In the video above, I take my cousin fishing, and go over 3 of the most straightforward ways you can fish a worm on the bottom. What this video lacks in production quality, it makes up for it with it’s honesty and entry level approach.

So, the next time you’re thinking about wacky rigging a Senko in that same old bass pond for the millionth time – instead, find a shady spot, grab a pack of worms, and do some bottom fishing!

Been In The Game For Years Making Worm Rigs

Since I was a kid, I’ve been fishing this way with my dad and brothers along the banks of rivers and ponds surrounding our house. Over the years, interests have changed, skills developed and now I spend more time flipping jigs, burning crankbaits, or looking for that surface strike from a hungry bass choking topwater frogs deep in the summer weeds.As much as I love all of those things, and boy, do I love them dearly, there is something that always draws me back to what I call ”bottom fishing with crawlers”

For me, this technique is not only nostalgic, it’s an easy way to relax on a lazy afternoon while proving to be an extremely effective way to catch big fish. This is especially true for new anglers or people in areas with a lack of species diversity, fishing opportunities, or places generally considered to be ”good fishing”.

Live Worm Fishing: Minimal Assembly Required

Worms, hooks, and weights. Together, they create the simplest rig in freshwater fishing.

Assuming you have a fishing rod and reel spooled up and ready to go (if not, click here), all you’ll need is hooks, weights, and worms to put together these three simple rigs that will catch you a boatload of fish.

Get a sturdy ”Y” shaped stick or a store-bought rod holder strong enough that it can be jammed in the ground and hold up your rod while you sit and wait for a bite.

Keeping the line between your rod and bait taught helps increase your ability to detect bites, and in return, catch more fish.

Live Worm Bottom Fishing Checklist:

1. Fishing Rod + Reel
2. Line
3. Weights
4. Hooks
5. Worms
6. Chair
7. Net
8. Shade
9. Patience!

Nightcrawler Fishing Pro Tips:

• Ask for a paper bag when buying worms and keep them in the shade. A brown bag keeps your worms cool throughout the day and prevents them from drying out.
• Add a clip-on fishing bell to the tip of your rod to help alert you of any bites when bottom fishing
• Keep a taut line on your bottom rod. This will help you detect bites much easier
• Loosen your drag or secure your rod safely when bottom fishing. This will help prevent your rod from getting pulled in the water by a big fish (it’s happened to me twice)

Duck Hunting isn’t just something you do; it tends to become a part of who you are. Duck hunters have their own culture and unique language.

I’ll never forget hunting with some buddies, it was my first time hunting with this group, and I was a new hunter. A group of Scaup came in, and the season for them wasn’t open yet (California early season). I pulled my gun up and waited for my friend to give me the call to shoot them, but he never did. I asked him why we didn’t shoot at those ducks, and he said – They’re blueys. I didn’t know what that meant, so I asked him what type of duck that was, and he explained to me that they call Scaup – blueys.

That’s when I realized I had much more to learn than I had thought. The different names for ducks that day didn’t stop, and my eyes had been opened that these guys were speaking a different language – Duck Slang.

The slang between duck hunters can vary between regions and areas you hunt, but there is definitely a common thread that goes through most areas.

Whether you are a new duck hunter just starting out on this addiction we call waterfowl hunting or an experienced duck hunter who uses many of these words regularly (especially during season) – get ready to learn some Duck Hunting Slang.

Types of Ducks & Geese

Duck Hunters have slang terms for many different types of ducks and geese, and it often varies based on your location. Some terms transcend a majority of the duck hunter dialects. Duck Hunting Lingo like:

• Drake Mallard: Park Duck, Green Bean, Green Head, Greenie.
• Northern Shoveler: Spoonie, Hollywood, Smiling Mallard, Boot Lip
• American Wigeon: Cotton Top
• Northern Pintail: Sprig, Chocolate Top
• Gadwall: Gray Duck
• Wood Duck: Woodie
• Bufflehead: Buffie
• Common Merganser: Lawn Dart
• Hooded Merganser: Hoodie
• Canadian Goose: Honker
• Snow Goose: Sky Carp
• Specklebelly (White-fronted) Goose: Speck, Tar Belly
• Scaup: Bluey, Bluebill
• Hen Mallard: Suzy
• American Coot: – Trash Duck
• Sea Gull: – Portuguese Snow Goose, Steven

It’s truly amazing to think about how we use so many different slang terms to label the different types of waterfowl.

Duck Hunting Lingo

It’s not just the different types of ducks that have nicknames. There are countless made-up names for various elements of duck hunting that you should know about. Check out a small list below:

• Sky Buster: Someone who shoots at ducks that are too high.
• Honey Hole: The perfect place to hunt ducks. Always successful.
• Refuge Rat: Someone who hunts a public refuge religiously
• Pass Shooting: Shooting at ducks as they pass, rather than while they are landing.
• Cupped up: When ducks lock their wings and begin to lower in elevation.
• Spot Burner: The guy on the internet or in person who shares someone else’s honey hole.
• Flock Shooting: Shooting at a flock of ducks instead of focusing on a single duck.
• Water Swat: Shooting a duck that is on the water.
• Spinner/Mojo: A Spinning wing decoy.
• Deek: A decoy
• Spread: The entirety of a hunter’s decoys as they are set out.
• The X: Where the birds want to be
• Cut Em: The saying someone uses to signal other hunters it’s time to shoot
• Bling: Band

Duck Hunters definitely have their own language, and it even seems like there are different dialects to their lingo. If you have a word or phrase that isn’t on the list – go ahead and share it with us, we’d love to hear it!

↬ What is an improved modified choke tube? Improved modified is a little known choke tube size but it does excel in some situations where common choke sizes just don’t cut it.

An improved modified choke is tighter than modified but more open than a light full choke. Improved modified choke tubes measure between .696″ and .705″ and are used for mid range waterfowl hunting. Chokes in improved modified sizes are marked by two notches.

In this guide, we’ll discuss why improved modified chokes are some of the least popular choke tubes, but they do serve a purpose when hunting waterfowl and fill a niche that other choke tubes can’t match. And if you want to see the leading improved modified choke tube for hunting, be sure to check out Carlson’s Long Range Cremator.

What is an improved modified choke?

An improved modified choke is tighter than modified but more open than light full chokes according to the choke tube constriction chart. For a fixed choke 12 gauge, an improved modified choke measures 0.695” in diameter. The three types of modified choke tubes are improved modified, modified, and light modified. Improved modified is a tighter diameter than both modified and light modified.

For popular shotgun brands, the improved modified measures 0.696″ for Beretta and Benelli, 0.697″ for Browning, 0.705″ for Winchester, and 0.697″ for Remington. Choke tube markings indicate an improved modified choke tube with two notches.

Modified vs improved modified chokes

If you are stuck on deciding between a modified vs improved modified choke tube, you are not alone. The two chokes are very similar in size, with modified measuring 0.705″ and improved modified measuring 0.695″.

The improved modified will give tighter patterns at longer ranges than a modified choke, which translates to 5-10 yards more of effective range. Patterning your shotgun with both size choke tubes with the same ammo is the only way to know for sure. If you want an all-around waterfowl choke, stick with the modified. If you plan to stretch your shots, go with the improved modified.

Is an improved modified choke good for duck hunting?

An improved modified choke tube is a great choice for both ducks and geese since it can be used with a wide range of shot types – including steel shot – and isn’t too restrictive for up close shots over decoys.

The reason why improved modified chokes are not popular is that modified choke tubes are usually included with choke sets on new shotguns, so there really isn’t a need for them. Improved modified chokes are popular with reloaders and those that pattern their shotguns regularly since they are always in search of the best patterns and improved modified can be a hidden gem under the right conditions.

What patterns to expect with improved modified

Improved modified provides the best patterns between 40 and 50 yards with steel shot and even further with heavier than lead alternatives. All bird shot pellet sizes and types can be used through an improved modified choke tube.

If you have experience with modified choke tubes, expect your pattern to be slightly tighter with an improved modified. Depending on the shotgun and ammo, the difference may not even be noticeable.

Improved Modified Choke FAQs

Bottom Line

Improved modified is one of the least popular choke tube sizes mostly because modified is included with choke sets for new shotguns. The measurement of improved modified is 0.695” in diameter for fixed choke 12 gauges.

Duck hunting with an improved modified choke and steel 4 shot is an effective combination out to 35 yards. Improved modified also makes a great long range goose hunting choke with larger steel shot. As with all choke tubes, you should pattern your shotgun to see what choke works best for the distance you will be hunting.

Finally, if you’re wondering which chokes you should switch to for waterfowl, there’s no better place to start than our list of the best waterfowl chokes. Whichever choke you pick, just make sure it fits the choke system on your shotgun.

Search Chokes by Gauge

Related Posts

• Best Waterfowl Choke Tubes for Duck Hunting Success
• Choke Tube Diameter and Constriction Table
• 7.5 vs 8 shot: The 3 Key Differences to Know

Going hunting? Need to touch up your gear? Look no further – creating your own camo pattern is easy! With the following tips, you can get that perfect, natural camo look in 15 minutes or less. Follow this easy, step-by-step guide to get the look.

What You Need

• Gear to spray paint
• Camo spray paint in black, brown, olive and khaki
• Drop cloth to protect from overspray
• Gloves (optional)
• Stencil (optional)
• Branches and leaves (ideally from the area you will be hunting in)

STEP 1: Prep your work area

Set up a spray area by covering your work space with a drop cloth. Make sure it is a well-ventilated area – outside is ideal. Using an all-purpose cleaner, thoroughly clean the inside and outside of your surfaces to remove dirt, oil and debris.

STEP 2: Paint your base

Depending on the surface, you may want to do a base colour on your project before layering with the camo pattern. It is always best to start with a base coat when you are working with a brightly coloured object.. One recommended product to accomplish this is Krylon Camouflage Spray Paint. For the base, layer the camo spray paint in black and brown using short, fast bursts. Keep layering colour until most or all of the original colour is gone.

Spray Tip: Make sure you read and follow the instructions on the can for proper spray distances, dry times and recoat timeframes. Products like Krylon Camouflage paint should be shaken for at least one minute after the ball has been released inside the can to ensure proper colour distribution. It is always recommended to test-spray on a scrap piece of paper or on your drop cloth before spraying your project. While painting, hold the can six to eight inches away from the surface and make sure to spray in smooth, even strokes to prevent drips or large areas of concentrated colour.

STEP 3: Create your camo

Layer leaves and branches over your project. Using the lighter colours (olive and khaki), spray in long, sweeping motions across the organic material. Remove the leaves and branches to reveal the pattern below. Repeat this process all around until you are satisfied with the pattern.

Spray Tip: Layer, Layer, LAYER! The more you layer the pattern, the more realistic it will look.

STEP 4

Let it dry. Spray paint typically dries in 15 minutes or less and can be handled in about one hour.

Quick Tips

• Choose the right pattern – pick branches and leaves from the area you will be hunting in to create a custom camo look to that area.
• Choose the right colours – layer colours so the hues that are most prominent in the area you will be hunting in are most featured. Always use an ultra-flat finish to ensure there is no light reflection.
• Pick a stencil – if you’re looking for a more traditional camo stencil, follow the instructions above, but instead of using natural stencils with leaves and branches, download them online. Krylon’s camo stencils can be found at krylon.com
• Light coats – for best results, use light, even coats instead of thick, heavy coats of paints. This will prevent drips and will also speed up dry time.

Attention, meat lovers! Want to add a healthy and flavorful twist to your diet? Look no further than the humble deer heart. Packed with nutrients and full of unique taste, this game meat is worth trying. Keep reading to learn about its nutritional benefits, cooking techniques, and how it stacks up against other game meats.

What is Deer (Venison) Heart and How to Prepare it for Cooking?

Deer (Venison) heart is a popular game meat that has become increasingly sought-after in recent years. Not only is it incredibly flavorful, but it’s also surprisingly easy to prepare and cook. In this article, we’ll discuss the basics of deer (venison) heart preparation and provide some tips on how to get the most out of this delicious game meat.

Delicious Recipes Using Deer (Venison) Heart as the Main Ingredient

If you are looking for a unique and delicious way to enjoy deer (venison) hearts, look no further! From stews to tacos, these recipes will make your taste buds happy!

Easy Pan Fried Deer Heart Recipe

Grilled Venison Heart with Peppers and Onions

Deer Heart Recipe (Venison Heart)

MeatEater Recipe: Seared Venison Heart with Whiskey Butter

Quick and Easy Venison Heart – Cast Iron Recipes

Health Benefits of Eating Deer (Venison) Heart

Eating it can be a great way to add some extra nutrition to your diet. It is packed with essential vitamins and minerals, such as iron, zinc, and Vitamin B12. It is also a great source of protein, which can help you maintain strong muscles and bones. Additionally, it contains Omega-3 fatty acids which are beneficial for your overall health. Eating deer heart regularly can help reduce inflammation in the body and improve cardiovascular health.

How healthy is eating deer (venison) heart?

Deer (venison) heart is a lean protein source that is low in fat and high in nutrients such as iron, vitamin B12, and zinc. It is also a good source of CoQ10, an antioxidant that is important for heart health. Eating it can be a healthy addition to your diet, as long as it is cooked properly and consumed in moderation.

Tips & Tricks for Cooking with Deer (Venison) Heart

Cooking with deer (venison)heart can be a daunting task for the novice chef. However, with a few simple tips and tricks, you can easily create delicious dishes that will impress your family and friends. Here are the best methods that will make your meals tastier and healthier.

Cooking with venison heart tips and tricks:

Do you need to soak a deer heart before cooking?

Yes, it is recommended to soak a deer heart in salt water for at least 2 hours before cooking to remove any blood or gamey taste. After soaking, you can prepare the heart using various cooking methods such as grilling, roasting, or slow cooking.

What’s the best way to eat deer (venison) heart?

One popular way to cook deer heart is to marinate it overnight in a mixture of olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, and herbs. Then, slice the heart thinly and grill or pan-fry it until it is cooked to your liking. Serve with a side of roasted vegetables or a salad for a delicious and nutritious meal.

Can you eat a raw deer heart?

While some people may choose to eat raw deer heart, it is not recommended. It is important to properly cook the heart to a safe internal temperature of 160°F. There are many delicious ways to prepare deer heart, including grilling, roasting, or slow-cooking it in a stew.

Should I brine the deer heart?

It is recommended to brine the deer heart before cooking it to help tenderize the meat and remove any gamey taste. A simple brine can be made with water, salt, sugar, and any desired herbs or spices. Brine the heart for at least 4 hours before cooking for the best results.

Nutritional Information of Deer (Venison) Heart

Deer (venison) heart is an excellent source of essential vitamins and minerals. It is a lean protein source that is low in fat and high in nutrients such as iron, vitamin B12, and zinc. Additionally, it contains Omega-3 fatty acids, which are beneficial for your overall health. Eating deer heart regularly can help reduce inflammation in the body and improve cardiovascular health.

Different Cooking Methods for Deer (Venison) Heart

There are several cooking methods that you can use to prepare deer (venison) heart. One of the most popular methods is grilling. To grill deer heart, first, you need to clean it thoroughly and remove any excess fat. Then, slice the heart into thin strips and marinate it for a few hours before grilling it over medium-high heat for a few minutes on each side.

Another popular method is slow-cooking. Slow-cooking deer heart can make it more tender and flavorful. To slow-cook deer heart, first, sear it in a pan to lock in the flavor, then place it in a slow cooker with vegetables and broth and let it cook on low for several hours.

You can also roast deer heart in the oven. To do this, first, preheat the oven to 375°F, then season the heart with salt, pepper, and herbs of your choice. Roast the heart in the oven for 15-20 minutes, or until it is cooked to your liking.

Marinating and Seasoning Techniques for Deer (Venison) Heart

Marinating and seasoning deer (venison) heart is crucial to ensure that it is flavorful and tender. A simple marinade can be made with olive oil, red wine vinegar, garlic, and herbs of your choice. Marinate the deer heart for at least 2 hours before cooking it to allow the flavors to penetrate the meat fully.

Seasoning deer heart is also essential. You can season it with salt, pepper, and herbs of your choice, such as thyme or rosemary, to enhance its natural flavor. You can also add a bit of honey or maple syrup for a sweet and savory flavor.

Comparison of Deer (Venison) Heart to Other Game Meats

Deer (venison) heart is just one of many types of game meat available. Compared to other game meats, such as elk, moose, and bison, deer heart is a leaner protein source. It is also lower in fat than beef and pork, making it a healthier alternative. In terms of flavor, deer heart has a mild, slightly gamey taste that is unique to game meat. However, it is less gamey than other game meats, making it a great option for those who are new to game meat.

Start Enjoying the Flavorful Taste of Deer (Venison) Heart Today!

Have you ever wanted to add a unique flavor to your meals? Not only are they delicious, but they are also packed with essential vitamins and minerals. With deer heart, you can enjoy the taste of game meat without having to go hunting for it. Start enjoying the flavorful taste today and experience a unique culinary adventure!

You’re here for the best 223 ammo, but a disclaimer needs to be made because many will argue that .223 Remington and 5.56 Nato are the same.

They are NOT the same despite having the exact external cartridge dimensions.

You should NOT load 5.56mm NATO ammo into a .223 Remington chamber because it will cause higher chamber pressures when fired. The higher pressure can hurt the shooter and damage the rifle.

However, shooting .223 Rem ammunition in a 5.56mm NATO chamber is safe. Still, you will sacrifice some performance because of the difference in distance between the case mouth and the barrel rifling.

With that out of the way, let’s load up on some of the best .223 ammo for every shooter.

If you can’t wait, the best 223 ammo is Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ-BT because it’s reasonably priced and made by a well-known ammo manufacturer.

1. Wolf 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ – Best Plinking Round
2. Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ-BT – Best AR15 Ammo
3. Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64 Grain Extreme Point – Best Deer Hunting Round
4. Hornady 223 Rem 55gr V-MAX Ammunition – Best 223 Varmint Round
5. Remington 223 Rem 77 Grain HPBT – Best Self-Defense Round
6. Winchester 223 Rem 69 Grain HPBT – Best Hollow Point
7. TulAmmo 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ – Cheap .223 Ammo

Best 223 Target Ammo

The best target ammo depends on your preferences. If you intend to have a fun day of plinking, then you’ll want cheap .223 ammo.

However, suppose you’re competitively target shooting. In that case, you’ll likely need to handload your rounds to dial them in perfectly for your gun’s barrel twist rate, or you can use match-grade ammo that is more consistent than inexpensive rounds, but you give up the control to craft the perfect round.

Wolf 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ

Specs

• Casing: Steel
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: N/A
• Muzzle Energy: N/A

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Non-Corrosive

Cons

• Some shooters prefer a brass case over a steel case

Why We Chose It

These Wolf Ammo rounds are a happy compromise between price and reliability, which is why I consider them one of the best for plinking. While most shooters prefer a brass case, these rounds are steel cased, which has its pros and cons.

Steel-cased ammo is cheaper but tougher on your rifle. Steel cases are also more difficult to reload, so if you plan to reload, this probably isn’t the ammo for you.

Though 55gr rounds typically have a higher velocity, they’re not always the ideal bullet weight, especially when shooting long distances.

Wolf ammo is for the budget-minded shooter who doesn’t have the time to reload.

Honorable Mentions

If you want an inexpensive brass casing for target shooting, the PMC 223 55 Grain FMJ-BT is the way to go, but be aware you will pay a little extra for the brass casing.

The Federal Premium 223 Rem 42 Grain Frang. rounds are intended for close-range target shooting and law enforcement training situations. The frangible bullets are much less likely to ricochet when they hit a steel target because they are designed to disintegrate on impact.

Suppose you’re running low on hand-loaded rounds and must practice for a long-range competitive shooting match. In that case, the Remington Premier 223 Rem 55 Grain AccuTip-V rounds are a viable option based on their ballistics.

Best AR 15 Ammo

Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ-BT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,240 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,282 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• Reasonably priced

Cons

• Not the best self-defense round

Why We Chose It

You can burn through a lot of 223 Remington ammo when shooting an AR, so you don’t want high-end expensive ammo, but you need a reliable round that will allow your firearm to operate smoothly.

That’s where this 55gr bullet in a brass case perfectly fits. It’s not the most expensive, so it’s not terrible on your wallet, but also dependable for target shooting.

However, this would not be my first choice for home defense because the Federal .223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ-BT is a full metal jacket bullet instead of a hollow point bullet.

This 55-grain bullet has a decent velocity, but the lightweight bullet will be affected more by the wind as your distance to the target increases.

Honorable Mention

The Wolf WPA Military Classic 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ was designed for mass production for military use, so it’s inexpensive and relatively reliable. The significant downside is that these are steel cartridges instead of brass.

Best 223 Hunting Ammo

The 223 is not the most popular hunting round because it lacks the power to harvest big game ethically. However, in some states, you can use a .223 Rem for deer hunting, and it is a solid varmint round.

Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64-Grain Extreme Point Ammunition

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: XP (Extreme Point)
• Bullet Weight: 64gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,020 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,296 ft-lbs

Pros

• Designed for deer hunting
• It packs a punch for a medium-weight 223 bullet
• Trusted brand

Cons

• Expensive
• 223 is not the best deer hunting caliber

Why We Chose It

It’s unlikely you’ll shoot an entire box of ammo for deer season, so the price per round is less of a concern. The most important things you need from your .223 ammo for deer hunting are reliability, consistency, and stopping power which Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64gr can offer hunters.

The 223 Remington is not known for its stopping power, which is why most deer hunters use larger calibers, and it’s banned in some states. However, increasing the bullet weight will aid in upping the stopping power to a point.

The heavier 64gr bullet is slower than the other lighter bullets, but it’s needed to increase the stopping power.

Even though it’s designed for deer hunting, it’s effective in other hunting situations.

Honorable Mention

The Federal 223 Rem 62 Grain Fusion has a little lighter bullet that you’d expect to travel faster than the Winchester Deer Season XP; however, that’s not the case. The main advantage this bonded soft point bullet has is the price. It’s much cheaper than the Winchester Deer Season XP, so you can practice with it more without breaking the bank.

Best Varmint 223 Round

Hornady 223 Rem 55gr V-MAX Ammunition

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: V-Max
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,240 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,282 ft-lbs

Pros

• Fast
• Trusted brand

Cons

• Can get expensive

Why We Chose It

Varmint hunting typically involves shooting much more often than deer hunting, so having a dependable round, reasonably priced, is critical. Varmints are generally smaller animals, so the knockdown power doesn’t have to be as much as when hunting big game.

Because they’re lightweight, fast-traveling bullets, 223 bullets are a solid choice for hunting coyotes, prairie dogs, and other varmints, and the Hornady 55gr V-MAX is no exception.

The 3,240 fps of this Varmint Express round is the high average for most 55gr bullets, which is expected from Hornady. They’re one of the leading ammo manufacturers and trusted by many shooters and hunters because of the dependability of their ammunition.

For more options, check out our Hornady 223 ammo page.

Honorable Mention

The Sierra Prairie Enemy 223 55 Grain BlitzKing has lower muzzle velocity and muzzle energy, and it’s more expensive than the Hornady 55-grain bullet, but some rifles are more accurate with this round.

Best Home Defense Round

AR-15s excel in urban combat areas; however, that doesn’t mean they’re the best home defense weapon.

That title belongs to the shotgun because projectiles from a shotgun are less likely to over-penetrate.

However, if all you have is a 223 rifle, then, by all means, use it to defend yourself using some of the ammo choices below.

Remington 223 Rem 77-Grain HPBT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Hollow Point Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 77-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,790 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,331 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• High muzzle energy
• A heavier bullet means more knockdown power

Cons

• Lower muzzle velocity
• Not cheap

Why We Chose It

Though it’s not the fastest, it’s one of the heaviest 223 hollow point bullets available, so it will pack more of a punch to the threat, hence the higher muzzle energy.

Since Remington is in the name of the 223, we should expect them to make the best 223 ammo on the market, and they are a trusted brand in the ammo space, though some Remington firearms have seen a decline in quality.

Be prepared to spend more for this and other home defense rounds. This is partly due to the specialized bullets used in defense rounds.

Despite being slower than lighter bullets, the muzzle velocity is still plenty fast. An intruder won’t notice the difference in speed if you’re forced to use it to defend your family and yourself.

Honorable Mentions

The Federal LE Tactical TRU 223 Rem 55 Grain Nosler Ballistic Tip Ammunition offers a lighter bullet, which means less recoil, not that a 223 has much recoil anyways, and it also travels faster. However, this means you’re giving up some stopping power, but you’re saving a little money.

The most expensive self-defense round we will mention today is the Winchester Silvertip 223 Rem 64 Grain Defense Tip. Ballistically speaking, it sits in the middle, primarily because the bullet weight is between the other two rounds previously mentioned.

Best Hollow Point 223

Winchester 223 Rem 69-Grain HPBT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Hollow Point Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 69-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,060 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,434 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• Reasonably priced
• Solid ballistics

Cons

• Not the fastest
• Not the cheapest

Why We Chose It

The Winchester .223 Rem 69gr hollow point boat tail bullets might not be the cheapest or the fastest, but they pack more of a punch than the lighter hollow points, and they’re not overpriced despite being manufactured by a trusted brand.

The ballistics won’t blow anyone away, but considering the bullet weight, these rounds hold their own.

These 69gr hollow points offer shooters a higher velocity and muzzle energy than other heavier bullets, so maybe you can have your cake and eat it too.

I wouldn’t hesitate to use Winchester 223 Rem 69-Grain HPBT in a home defense situation plus; they’re not so expensive you can’t afford to practice with them at times.

For more options, check out our Winchester 223 ammo page!

Honorable Mention

TulAmmo 223 Rem 55 Grain HP are much cheaper than the Winchester 69gr HPBT, and they’re faster thanks to the lighter bullet, which also means less recoil. However, the cartridges are steel instead of brass.

Cheapest 223 Ammo

TulAmmo 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ

Specs

• Casing: Steel
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,241 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,283 ft-lbs

Pros

• Cheap
• High muzzle velocity

Cons

• Steel casing
• Cheap ammo is less dependable

Why We Chose It

If you want cheap 223 ammo, this is it. It’s a third of the price of most 223 Rem hunting and self-defense ammo, so if you take it to the range, you’ll be able to stay longer because you’re not spending your paycheck on ammo for target practice.

The reason it’s so cheap is that it’s steel-cased ammunition. This means it’ll be more challenging to reload and a little tougher on your firearm.

Despite being cheap, TulAmmo 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ offers shooters comparable ballistics to more expensive 55gr ammo, which means you can train with it and get similar results as the costly ammunition.

Honorable Mention

Though Wolf 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ is slightly more expensive than the Tula ammo mentioned above, sometimes you can find it in Wolf Gold, which means it is a brass case instead of a steel case.

How to Choose the Best 223 Ammo Based on Your Needs

When purchasing ammunition, you’re typically compromising because there’s no perfect ammunition. There are always several considerations that you need to make.

Budget

The primary consideration for the average firearms enthusiast is the budget.

How much are you able to spend on ammo?

My personal preference is to shoot for somewhere in the middle; however, there were times when I was pinching every penny, so I was only concerned with the cheapest ammo I could find.

Remember that cheaper ammo tends to be less reliable than more expensive ammunition.

Reliability

The reliability of the ammo is critical, especially if it’s self-defense ammo. You need to know that the round will fire when you pull the trigger.

I’ve purchased ammunition that regularly didn’t fire, despite seeing an indention on the primer. This was very frustrating when shooting at the range, but it could have resulted in severe harm had I needed it during a defensive situation.

I tend to stick with well-known brands, but sometimes the reliability of the ammo also depends on your firearm.

Some guns function better with specific ammunition brands. This means you’ll need to test several brands to determine which one your weapon likes best.

Ballistics

The ballistics you need out of the ammo will depend on what application for which you’re using it. If you’re plinking at the range, the ballistics don’t matter as much as when you’re shooting in a competition.

For a competition, typically, a fast medium-weight bullet works best, but once again, it will depend on what your gun likes. Sometimes the lighter, faster bullets work best, and sometimes the heavier bullets work best.

I prefer to stick with medium-weight bullets that still pack a punch for hunting and self-defense. The muzzle velocity is less important but still relevant in hunting situations.

How to Save Money On Ammo

As ammo demand and prices continue only to increase, as shooting enthusiasts, we’re always looking for ways to save a little money so that we can visit the gun range more often.

Here are a few recommendations I have for saving money on 223 ammo.

Buying in Bulk

When you buy bulk 223 ammo, the manufacturer and retailer give you a slight discount per round. While it might only be a few cents per round, those cents add up quickly when you’re shooting a few hundred rounds or more on every visit to the gun range.

The worst part about buying bulk ammo is the initial cost. You have to spend several hundred dollars to get significant savings.

However, ammunition lasts for a long time when properly stored, so you can stock up while prices are as low as they’ll ever be and not be in a rush to shoot it.

Reloading

Reloading or handloading is another way to save money on factory ammo. You can use spent brass and reload it by cleaning the brass, punching out the used primer, inserting a new one, pouring in gunpowder, and inserting a new bullet.

Obviously, this is an oversimplified explanation, but that’s the basic idea.

This saves money in the long run and gives you more control over the process so you can craft the perfect bullet for your gun, whether that’s an AR-15 rifle or a trusty bolt-action hunting rifle.

Reloading has the same problem as buying bulk because it’s a significant investment upfront that pays itself off over the long run.

If you’re really crazy, like most of us firearms enthusiasts, you’ll do both, buy in bulk and reload to save even more money!

Common 223 Bullet Types

There’s not a wide variety of 223 bullets, but there are a few you should be aware of and understand which one works best in what situations.

FMJ

The most common 223 bullets are FMJs or Full Metal Jackets. They’re usually the least expensive. They’re not the best for home defense because they tend to over-penetrate the target and walls.

FMJs are suitable for target practice; however, I don’t recommend shooting steel targets with FMJs within 100 yards. I have had the metal jacket come back and cut my cheek when shooting metal targets at 75 yards with a buddy.

HPBT

Hollow Point Boat Tail Bullets or HPBT are common hunting and self-defense rounds. The hollow point expands on impact, which reduces its ability to penetrate but, upon entrance, causes more damage.

For more HPBT ammo options, visit our Fiocchi 223 ammo page.

The Boat Tail refers to the aerodynamic shape of the bottom of the bullet. The base is tapered to improve accuracy at long distances.

SP

The Soft Point bullets, designated by SP, expand less on impact than hollow point bullets, so they get better penetration yet expand more than an FMJ. So you can have a happy medium between the two bullet types.

To achieve this, these bullets are made from a softer lead than the typical bullet. They are most popular amongst big game hunters, where hollow point bullets are banned. However, they don’t have the stopping power that hollow points typically do because of the reduction in expansion.

Ballistic Tip

The Ballistic Tip is Nosler’s name for their hunting ammunition with a plastic tip on a hollow point bullet. The polymer tip helps with aerodynamics and allows the hollow point uniformly expand.

Be sure to check your local hunting regulations, as Ballistic Tipped bullets are banned in some areas.

Green Tip

Green Tip ammo is most often found in 5.56 NATO rounds because it’s designed for the military as a penetrator round. Instead of a lead core bullet, it has a steel rod inside that can better penetrate the target when closer than 100 yards.

However, some ranges don’t allow green tip ammo, so if you choose to go this route, don’t be surprised if your local gun range doesn’t allow you to bring it in.

Parting Shots

The best 223 ammo for you will depend on your gun and the circumstances in which you intend to use it.

For hunting, that will likely be Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64gr.

While if you plan to use it for home defense, I recommend Remington 223 Rem 77-Grain HPBT because the hollow point bullet is less likely to over-penetrate.

Lastly, for target shooting, I recommend Wolf 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ because it’s inexpensive.

So you are in the market for a red dot? Well, it’s not as simple as telling you which is the best red dot sight to buy, or you wouldn’t be on the hunt!

There are many red dots available and while we won’t be able to give you a simple: buy this sight for your gun.

We will provide you with unbiased feedback on as many red dot sights as we can get out hands-on. This post will be forever updated and changed as optics are introduced and/or discontinued.

We want to keep you up to date on red dots because we LOVE red dots.

Best Budget Red Dot Sights

The internet is full of financial shamers. What does that mean? Post your budget AR build in an AR-15 Facebook group, and you’ll immediately be called poor.

That’s stupid.

Lynx Defense is a premium gear manufacturer and what some would call expensive.

But we will never insult someone for buying what they can afford. We hope it’s our products, but we want people to love firearms and gear as much as we do at the end of the day.

People have families, and money doesn’t grow on trees, so obviously, you want to get the most bang for your buck out of whatever you buy, including your gun’s red dot sight.

Let me be clear there is a difference in quality budget red dots and cheap red dots. We will not be including any cheap red dot sights because they are not quality optics.

So let’s dive in. These will not be in order, so read through each one and determine what’s best for you.

Sig Romeo5

The Sig Romeo 5 red dot sight is one of the most popular red dot sights of 2022. The reason for that is actually pretty obvious when you take a deep look into the Sig Romeo5. We even conducted a full Sig Romeo 5 review.

First and foremost, the price point is fantastic.

Currently, the Sig Romeo 5 is $114.99 on Amazon.

With that price comes a quality red dot for the price—the Romero5 features over 40,000 hours of battery life on the medium setting.

The MOTAC feature is great to save battery life, and the fact it is IPX-7 waterproof rated makes this a top-notch red dot sight for the price.

This red dot pairs great with any length AR-15 or pistol-caliber carbine. I ran my Sig Romeo5 on my Sig Sauer Copperhead. It now lives on my EPC-9 carbine.

Sig Sauer MSR and Juliet 3 Micro Magnifier

Next up is also a Sig Sauer product but with a little flair.

The Sig Sauer MSR by itself is a decent optic but with the extremely reasonable price of the MSR and Juliet 3 Micro Magnifier, you get a fantastic package for a great price.

The magnifier Romeo-MSR combo adds the ability to get extra distance out of your red dot sight and makes it an extremely attractive option.

Bushnell TRS-25

The Bushnell TRS-25 is probably the least expensive red dot sight on the market. It’s the cheapest red dot sight I’d be comfortable recommending to people.

Many people are drawn to the Bushnell TRS-25 because it’s an extremely affordable red dot sight.

Amazon regularly has these for around $50-$70 and actually has a pretty decent set of features.

The TRS-25 comes with a 1913 rise block included, which really makes this a bang for your buck.

If your funds are tight and you need a decent optic for the least amount of money possible, grab the TRS-25.

This is an optic you can buy and not feel bad about buying a new optic later and not waste a ton of money.

Don’t go any cheaper than this optic. This is the bottom of the acceptable optic list.

Holosun HS-403B

If you are looking for a decent middle-of-the-road optic, look no further than the Holosun HS-403B a feature-packed sub $200 red dot sight.

This might be the best red for sight for your AR-15! But, let us take a look at why it may be the best optic for you.

The Holosun HS403B is a compact optic with an included riser mount. The only catch is if you don’t like the height of the mount you are stuck with it unless you purchase another mount.

If you are looking for a red dot sight that’s ready to go this is definitely a good option for you.

There are other Holosun optics that I like a little better due to their similar price and increased feature set.

Primary Arms SLx MD-25 Gen 2

The Primary Arms SLx MD-25 is a 2MOA dot that is near perfect for almost any rifle.

The ACSS Reticle in the SLx MD-25 has to be one of my favorite reticles. It incorporates the chevron and the horseshoe design to top off the near-perfect combo.

If you are on the hunt for a feature-rich optic that comes with an included mount that packs some quality don’t skip on the PA SLx MD-25.

The battery life for this optic is exceptional and the included riser is near perfect. You can read our Primary Arms SLx MD-25 review in our review section.

Primary Arms SLx 1X MicroPrism

One of the best optics going into the New Year is the PA SLx 1x Micro Prism sight. This thing is small, hence “micro” prism, but it packs a punch!

I absolutely love mine and have run it on a number of guns. I even did a full review of the 1 x Micro Prism.

The best part of the PA SLX 1x Micro Prism is the price and feature set. The fact it has 45,000 hours of battery life and comes in under $300 is incredible.

The overall build quality of the optic is fantastic and if you want something that will make your good look fantastic, this will definitely do that.

If you want the best AR-15 red dot sight grab the SLx with the Cyclops reticle!

Best Overall Budget Red Dot Sight

I’m not in the business of telling people what will work best for them. This country is all about individuals determining what’s best for them.

I’m just trying to provide you with my feedback and help you come to a decision.

So here’s a hypothetical list of things to consider when deciding what budget red dot sight to buy.

• Size
• Weight
• Field of View
• Battery Life
• Reticle
• Features (Shake Awake, included mount, etc.)

So, while it would be nice just to paste a picture of the best overall budget red dot sight, it’s hard to say. Personally, I think the best overall budget red dot sight available right now is the Sig Romeo 5.

An up and company called AT3 also has a decent budget red dot sight called the AT3 RD-50 Pro.

Best High-End Red Dot Sights

High-end red dot sights are all the rage on the Gram! After all, who doesn’t love rocking the best?

I know I do, and I’ve had my fair share of top-tier red dot sights. I really stick to three of my favorites.

Here are the top high-end red dot sights

EOTech HWS XPS2

The EOTech HWS is one of the most popular high-end red dot sight.

But it’s slightly more than just your average red dot. More than average, why you ask?

It’s holographic!

But what does holographic mean? Well, I’m glad you asked.

Basically, without getting all scientific, a holographic weapon sight keeps the reticle positioned in an exact area of the glass. So if you move the weapon left or right, the reticle will stay on target.

This allows for accurate shooting even while moving or if something is blocking your optics viewports, such as snow or dirt.

The EOTech HWS XPS2 is my go-to red dot sight if money is not an issue.

I like how the EOTech looks on my guns, and the function and ease of use are top-tier.

Trijicon MRO

The Trijicon MRO came onto the scene in 2015 and has been making the climb to the top ever since.

Trijicon is already a well-known sight and optic manufacturer. I personally run their night sights on my Glock 19.

While most people will know the name because of the Trijicon ACOG optic.

MRO stands for Miniature Rifle Optic, and while it’s not the smallest on the block, it’s still smaller than some of its other counterparts, like the EOTech series.

I like the MRO. It’s purpose-built and rugged.

The Trijicon MRO isn’t trying to be something it’s not.

It’s a small package with a wide field of view. The battery life is an impressive 5 years on the medium setting.

The MRO has been put through several torture tests and came through with flying colors.

The mounting options are endless, and from the factory, it comes with several options: no mount, 1/3 co-witness, and full co-witness.

Aimpoint Micro T-2

The Aimpoint Micro H-1 and I go way back. I feel like I’ve got to say this. The H-1 is like your high school prom date. All pretty, dressed up, ready to go out and possibly make some mistakes and get lucky, who knows.

The Aimpoint Micro T-2 is the new hotness so buy it if you’re looking for an Aimpoint Micro. I run my Micro H-1 on the Battle Arms Development rifle pictured below.

Anyway. I purchased the Aimpoint Micro H-1 after owning the EOTech 512 for some time. If you know anything about the EOTech 512, it’s bulky.

So getting the H-1 really changed things up a bit. It was a slim, compact red dot sight that I loved right off the bat.

What’s the best red dot sight?

Picking the best optic for you is essential. It’s hard to choose because there are so many options, but first and foremost, you want to narrow down your price range.

Once you do that, you can start to narrow in on what optics are in that price range that will work for you.

Then, you can look at things like reticles and features such as shake awake, weight, and battery life.

Once you have your price range, you can break down and analyze what red dot sight is going to work for you.

Ultimately, the most important thing is choosing what’s best for you, not what some biased reviewer will recommend.

At Lynx Defense, we try to give unbiased reviews, but of course, we can only really comment on the red dot sights that we’ve used. The ones included in this article are the ones that we’ve got our hands on so far.

Now, of course, we’re in an endless battle to try to get more, how we can bring them to you, and try to review them.

How to pick the best red dot for you?

Picking the best red dot for you is probably one of the hardest questions you’ll ask yourself during your search for a sight.

The fact of the matter is that you’ve probably already decided to get a red dot sight.

There are so many options that you could get an LVPO, a red dot, a holographic weapon sight, or just run iron sights.

It really comes down to what will work best for you and your specific use case or mission.

I think it’s imperative to look at all of your options.

Again, as I’ve stated, it’s important to look at your price range, start from there, and narrow down your options.

After you have a price range, it’s pretty easy to find the high end of your price range, the mid-tier, and then the low end. But to figure out what’s truly just marketing nonsense and what’s a fact, you really want to go to somebody you can trust.

The internet is full of reviews. However, you never know who you can trust or who’s just trying to make a dollar. So a full disclaimer, Lynx Defense has obviously created links throughout this entire post. This entire post has pictures, optics, and links to all the different places across the web you can buy them. Most of those links are affiliate links. We make a small commission based on what you buy if you use our link to get there. Now, basically, what that entails is if we provided you with helpful information, it’s just a reward for us but doesn’t cost you a dime more.

We review all of our optics fairly and give them a fair shake. We are not beholding to any company for any reason under any circumstance. That’s why you’ll see we’ll link to Amazon, to Primary Arms, to EOTech. It doesn’t matter to us. We will link to them if it’s relevant.

We don’t care if you buy using our links or not. So, keep in mind when you’re looking at reviews, and you constantly see the same site or person push the same company over and over again, they could be getting paid for those reviews.

We hear all the time, “I bought this because X, Y, Z influencer said, this was the optic to buy.” When in reality, it didn’t fit their needs at all.

Then they ended up being unhappy with their purchase. That’s not at all what we aim to do here at Lynx Defense. We educate, and then you make the decision based on your needs.

This is why we’re so committed to this particular article and keeping it up to date year after year, month after month, as new optics become available and as we were able to get our hands on new optics.

Obviously, we don’t get a chance to test every single model of every single configuration of every optic ever made.

That would be awesome.

But unfortunately, we don’t have the time or the financial resources to really make that happen.

I really don’t know anybody who does.

So, of course, this post will be somewhat biased in that these are the ones we’ve got our hands on thus far.

These are what we recommend. We’re also going to tell you, that we don’t recommend going below a certain point.

For example, the Bushnell TRS-25 is pretty much the bottom. We don’t recommend going anything below that.

No optic that’s just total plastic, without any metal, it’s out the door.

Anything below the $50, $60, or $70 price point of the Bushnell TRS-25 is a no-go for us.

So keep in mind we’re not going to recommend low quality at all. No matter how cheap it is.

We’re not trying to make a buck. We’re trying to educate.

If we can get rewarded for the time we have invested for this by using the affiliate, awesome, but all we really want is for you to learn something from our work.

Red Dot Sight Reticle Options

Red dot sights have many different reticles, and most of the time, the one that is “best” boils down to your personal preference.

There are different schools of thought that some are better than others for target acquisition, but I won’t go down that road.

Single Red Dot

The single dot reticle is just that, a single dot. That dot can range in MOA and crispness.

Low-end optics could see a lot of distortion around the dot, whereas high-quality optics should have a crisp and clean dot.

The dot can range anywhere from 1-6 MOA.

Circle Red Dot

Circle dots reticles have a circle around the center dot.

These have much faster target acquisitions since you can place your target in the circle for faster but less precise hits.

Personally, this is one of my favorite reticles.

Ranging

Ranging reticles don’t have a standard look. They can vary in shape and size, and function. But the purpose of them remains the same, and they help you adjust your optic for shooting longer or shorter range.

You don’t see this reticle often in AR-15 red dot sights.

Multi Red Dot

Multi-dot reticles are pretty much what they sound like, multiple dots. Typically, multiple dot reticles are used for ranging.

The top dot could be sighted in for 50 or 100 yards, and then you would be able to determine what your bottom dot would be at 150 – 200 yards.

These reticles are popular in EoTech HWS (holographic weapon sights).

Horseshoe/Dot

The horseshoe dot reticle is similar to the circle dot reticle. The minor difference of the circle is open at the bottom creates a horseshoe instead of a complete circle.

Like the ACSS-CQB reticle from the Primary Arms MD-25 above, the center dot is a chevron and not a plain dot. The horseshoe/dot reticles can interchange the center dot and over have ranging dots below the larger center dot.

Crosshair

The crosshair reticle is also not a common red dot reticle. These are typically found in magnification scopes. Some lower-end optics, like NcStar, feature these types of reticles.

Chevron

Chevron reticles look like an up arrow without the tail. This is a reticle popularized by the Trijicon ACOG optic.

What is an MOA Dot?

You often see MOA, which means “minutes of angle,” all over red dot optics product pages.

MOA is a unit of measurement of a circle and is used to determine the size of the dot and how much it will cover your sight picture at a specific distance.

MOA dots usually are between 2 – 6 MOA, and the smaller the number, the less the dot will cover your target.

Other Optic Options

If you are set on a red dot sight the above options are probably the best. But are you interested in other optics?

Low Power Variable Optic (LVPO)

If you are looking for something more than a red dot you might want to get a Low Power Variable Optic (LVPO) like the Vortex Strike Eagle.

Best Red Dot Sight for Astigmatism

Red dot sights can be hell for someone with astigmatism. The dot won’t be crisp and you’ll have difficulty acquiring targets and having a positive shooting experience.

I’ve found that prism optics are probably your best bet when it comes to astigmatism.

My current favorite Prism optic is the Primary Arms SLx 1x Micro Prism.

Iron Sights

If you want to have a more manual optic you can get backup flip-up sights in case your battery dies or the optic fails.

If you want to accessorize your new AR-15 further, read our best AR-15 Flashlight, AR-15 Drum Magazine Guide, and the Best Tactical Flashlight.

The 28 Nosler and Hornady 300 PRC are two centerfire rifle cartridges that were developed for long range shooting and hunting. They represent the pinnacle of 21st Century ballistic technology and development that were designed to hit targets at ranges of over 1,000 yards while maintaining sub-MOA accuracy.

Long range hunting is not a new concept, for decades hunters have been relying on cartridges like the 300 Winchester Magnum, 7mm Rem Mag, and 300 Weatherby Magnum to reach out past 500 yards. Although these rifle cartridges are effective at taking big game, their chamber designs limited the types of bullets that could be used.

Hunters wanted access to longer, more aerodynamic bullets to maximize downrange performance, and the 300 PRC and 28 Nosler were designed from the ground up with these bullets in mind.

How then are you to decide which cartridge is best for your style of shooting or unique hunting needs?

In this article, we will evaluate the 28 Nosler vs 300 PRC to help you understand the differences between the two and give you a clearer idea of which cartridge is best for your next hunting rifle.

What is the difference between 28 Nosler and 300 PRC?

The primary difference between the 28 Nosler and the 300 PRC is that the 28 Nosler fires 0.284” diameter bullets compared to 0.308” for the 300 PRC. Also, the 28 Nosler has higher case capacity and will generally have higher muzzle velocity than the 300 PRC.

Cartridge Specs

When evaluating centerfire rifle cartridges, it’s a good idea to analyze the cartridge specs to gain more knowledge of each.

Both cartridges draw their heritage from rounds designed to hunt large or dangerous game. Hornady developed the 300 PRC from the lesser known 375 Ruger cartridge while the 28 Nosler comes from the 404 Jeffery. The 404 Jeffery sired the majority of Nosler’s cartridge line, namely the 30 Nosler, 26 Nosler, and 33 Nosler as well as other cartridges like the 7mm Remington Short Action Ultra Magnum (SAUM).

One of the most prominent differences between the two is that the 28 Nosler fires a bullet diameter of 7mm or 0.284” while the 300 PRC fires the more common 30-caliber or 0.308” diameter bullets. The 300 PRC fires heavier bullets between 190 and 225 gr while the 28 Nosler fires lighter bullets typically between 160 and 185 grains.

Another striking difference between the two cartridges is their overall length. The 3.7” long 300 PRC towers over the shorter 28 Nosler at 3.34” despite both having nearly identical cartridge case lengths at 2.58” and 2.59”, respectively.

This difference in overall length demonstrates a major difference in design concept between the two rounds. The 28 Nosler was designed to fit into a standard long action like the 30-06 Springfield, while the 300 PRC fits into a magnum action like the 338 Lapua Mag.

When Hornady set out to build the 300 PRC, they developed what they considered the ideal 30-caliber round and then built the rifle action around it. In contrast, Nosler developed the 28 to fit into a long action as it is lighter and has a shorter bolt throw. This will mean that follow up shots will typically be faster with a 28 Nosler and rifles for the cartridge will be lighter than those for 300 PRC.

Both cartridges require the use of a magnum bolt face thanks to their base diameter of 0.532” for the 300 and 0.534” for the 28.

Although the maximum chamber pressure for both cartridges is 65,000 psi per SAAMI specs, the 28 Nosler has considerably more case capacity at 93 gr compared to 77 gr for the 300 PRC.

Recoil

Recoil is an important consideration when purchasing a new rifle as a round with heavy recoil will be more difficult to control and will slow your rate of follow up shots.

Recoil is affected primarily by muzzle velocity (FPS), powder charge, bullet weight, and rifle weight.

For this recoil comparison, it is impossible to achieve a pure “apples to apples” comparison as the 300 PRC fires heavier bullets than the 28 Nosler. The lightest factory load available for the 300 is the Hornady Outfitter firing a CX polymer tip 190 grain bullet traveling at 3,000 fps. The 175 gr AccuBond Long Range traveling at 3,125 fps will be selected for 28 Nosler.

The Savage 110 will be the test firearm as it has configurations for both calibers and weighs around 8.7-pounds.

Given these parameters, the 300 PRC will have 32.9 ft-lbs of free recoil while the 28 Nosler will have 32.3 ft-lbs of free recoil. In this case, both rounds have almost the same free recoil energy.

However, the 300 PRC was designed to fire 200+ grain bullets, and the 212 gr ELD-X is their recommendation for big game hunting. Traveling at 2,860 fps, the 212 gr load will have a free recoil of 36 ft-lbs.

Anything over the 20 ft-lbs threshold is generally considered heavy recoil, which is why many rifles for both cartridges will come with a muzzle brake installed from the factory. A muzzle brake works by redirecting gasses from the burned gunpowder to help reduce felt recoil.

However, the 28 Nosler will generally have less recoil than the 300 PRC as the 28 is firing lighter bullets.

Barrel Life

The 300 PRC will generally have a longer barrel life than the 28 Nosler.

When a cartridge is fired, the powder charge is ignited to push the bullet down the barrel. The resulting flame touches not only the base of the bullet, but the rifling as well. Particularly vulnerable is the rifling at the mouth of the chamber.

Heat is the enemy of barrel life, the hotter you get your barrel the faster the rifling will begin to wear out.

Both the 300 PRC and 28 Nosler are know as being tough on barrels, however the increased powder charges of the 28 are particularly brutal.

It should be noted that most hunters will not “shoot out” a barrel for multiple seasons with either cartridge. Those who report short barrel life are typically high-volume competition shooters that are shooting near maximum charge handloads to achieve as much muzzle velocity as possible.

To increase your barrel’s lifespan, it’s best to run either factory ammo or handloads below maximum charge. Furthermore, allowing the barrel to cool between strings of fire will also help extend your barrel life.

However, many shooters report a loss in peak accuracy for 28 Nosler around the 800-round mark, while the 300 PRC can last near 1,500 rounds before accuracy begins to suffer.

The reason for this massive difference is that the 28 fires a smaller diameter bullet with a larger powder charge. This means that all the additional heat is focused on a smaller area which increases erosion of the rifling.

Although most hunters should not experience any difference in accuracy for multiple seasons, a 300 PRC will typically have longer barrel life than a 28 Nosler.

Muzzle Velocity, Kinetic Energy, and Trajectory

Browse any shooting or hunting forum and you find tons of posts expounding on the benefits of 300 PRC ballistics or that 28 Nosler ballistics are the best in the business. This can create a lot of confusion among new shooters, so let’s take four of the most popular factory loads on the market and see how they stack up against each other!

For this comparison, we will analyze the Hornady 190 gr CX and 212 gr ELD-X offerings for 300 PRC. The 225 gr ELD Match load could also be considered, but as this load is designed for long-range target shooting and not a hunting cartridge, it was excluded. For 28 Nosler, the 160 gr Ballistic Tip and 175 grain AccuBond Long Range loads will be compared.

In terms of muzzle velocity, the Nosler rounds were superior to the Hornady factory ammo. Thanks to the added case capacity, the 160 gr Ballistic tip left the muzzle at 3,200 fps and 3,125 fps for the AccuBond. Comparatively, the 300 PRC 190 gr CX load has a muzzle velocity of 3,000 fps and 2,860 fps for the 212 gr ELD-X.

Both rounds have an incredibly flat trajectory that surpasses even the 6.5 Creedmoor and 300 Win Mag. However, the increased muzzle velocity of the 28 Nosler gives it a flatter trajectory than the 300 PRC by a respectable margin.

Perhaps the most interesting data point is how close the two Nosler rounds are at 800 yards, as they are only separated by 5.1” of bullet drop at -132.8” (160 gr) and -127.7” (175 gr). The 300 PRC Hornady loads experienced -147.3” (190 gr) and -154.9” (212 gr) of bullet drop at 800 yards.

Although the 28 Nosler may have superior ballistics in terms of muzzle velocity and trajectory, the 300 PRC has it beat in terms of kinetic energy. At 3,850 ft-lbs of muzzle energy, the 212 gr Hornady ELD-X round has the highest kinetic energy of all four selections of factory ammo at 0 through 800 yards.

The 28 Nosler is no slouch when it comes to kinetic energy though, as 3,637 ft-lbs for the 160 gr Ballistic Tip and 3,794 ft-lbs for the 175 gr AccuBond is nothing short of impressive. The 175 gr AccuBond in particular is very efficient at retaining its kinetic energy over distance, as it only trails the 212 gr ELD-X at 1,597 ft-lbs at 800 yards.

Ballistic Coefficient and Sectional Density

The 300 PRC has a slight edge over the 28 Nosler in terms of ballistic coefficient and sectional density.

Ballistic coefficient (BC) is a measure of how aerodynamic a bullet is and how well it will resist wind drift. Sectional density (SD) is a way to evaluate the penetration ability of a bullet based on its external dimensions, design, and weight.

Both rounds were developed with a high BC in mind. Nosler and Hornady wanted to create a cartridge that was extremely resistant to wind drift and having a flat trajectory. To achieve this, they built their cartridges around extremely aerodynamic bullet designs.

The 300 PRC 212 gr ELD-X and 190 gr CX from the previous section have a ballistic coefficient of 0.663 and 0.575, respectively. In contrast, the 160 gr Ballistic Tip has a BC of 0.531 while the 175 gr AccuBond has a higher BC at 0.648.

All four bullets have a high BC for their respective weight, meaning they will be extremely resistant to wind drift. However, the 300 PRC with its increased bullet weight, will buck the wind more efficiently.

In terms of sectional density, both cartridges are nearly identical. The 212 gr Hornady round has a SD of 0.319 while the 190 gr bullet measures at 0.286. In contrast, the 160 gr Nosler bullet has a SD of 0.283 and 0.310 for the 175 gr AccuBond.

With SD values this close, it is unlikely that a hunter nor a mule deer will be able to discern any difference in terms of penetration.

Hunting

Both the 300 PRC and 28 Nosler make excellent long range hunting cartridges for medium to large game like whitetail, mule deer, antelope, elk, and black bear.

The amount of kinetic energy that both cartridges bring to bear is impressive, with some loadings being capable of ethically harvesting an elk at 800 yards. This gives hunters an incredible amount of flexibility of when and where they can hunt.

Although both rounds are capable of long range hunting, proper practice needs to be done to ensure a clean kill on any animal you shoot at these distances.

Neither the 300 PRC nor 28 Nosler are suitable for varmint hunting as they are way too powerful for these small game animals. For this type of hunting, we would recommend a smaller (and less expensive) cartridge like the 223 Remington, 22-250, or 22 LR depending on the varmint in question.

For big game, it’s hard to say that either cartridge is superior to the other. Both have adequate kinetic energy and flat trajectory for long-range shooting. The 28 Nosler has slightly less recoil, which is ideal for longer range shots, while the 300 PRC has slightly more kinetic energy, which is good for ensuring a clean kill.

The bottom line is that both rounds are effective big game hunting cartridges so long as your shot placement is adequate.

Ammo and Rifle Cost/Availability

The 28 Nosler and 300 PRC are still relatively new cartridges on the market compared to old standbys like the 300 Win Mag, this means typically corresponds to low ammo availability and limited options in terms of different load options.

This couldn’t be more true than for the 300 PRC, as there are currently four different ammo options for it available on the market (three from Hornady and one from Federal). However, the 28 Nosler has considerably more factory ammo options at the time of writing. Most 28 Nosler ammo come from Nosler itself, however Hornady just released a new 162 gr ELD-X load while Browning has three different options available.

Although the Nosler round might have 3x more options available to its name, those rounds are typically more expensive than 300 PRC factory loads.

On average, 300 PRC will cost around $3/round, which is in stark contrast to Nosler factory ammo which runs over $5/round. The Hornady and Browning options for 28 Nosler are slightly less expensive at $4/round, but the 300 PRC is clearly less expensive to shoot.

When it comes to firearms, bolt action rifles with 20+” barrel lengths are the only options for both cartridges at the time of writing. As the 300 and 28 were built for long range precision shooting, a bolt action rifle that maximizes the capabilities of each is preferred.

Rifles are available for both calibers from Savage, Bergara, Christensen, and Browning. For precision rifle shooting (PRS) competitors, long range competition-ready rifles for 300 PRC are available from Ruger, Savage, Barrett, and others.

One other aspect to consider is rifle cost, as most all standard hunting rifle offerings will run you close to $1,000 or more for each cartridge. Competition rifles for 300 PRC typically start around $2,000 and go up from there circa summer 2022.

Reloading

If you like to handload your own ammo, both cartridges offer you a lot of options for customization in terms of projectiles and powders to make the perfect reloads for your competition or hunting rifle.

Although currently there are only a few factory loads for both cartridges, reloading offers shooters considerably more versatility to tune your favorite 7mm or 30-caliber bullets to your rifle.

There’s no denying that there are many popular 7mm cartridges, such as the 7×57 Mauser, 7mm SAUM, 7mm-08 Rem, 7mm WSM, and the 7mm Weatherby Magnum. However, the 7mm cannot compare to the unabashed love affair that North America has with the 0.308” bullet diameter.

Some of the most popular cartridges in the USA fire 308-caliber, such as the 300 Win Mag, 308 Winchester, and 30-06 Springfield. This means that there will be considerably more reloading options in terms of bullets for the 300 PRC.

This is not to say that the 7mm is underrepresented, as virtually every bullet manufacturer like Norma, Barnes, Berger, Nosler, and Hornady have 7mm bullet options available for reloading your 28 Nosler. It just means that there are more options available for the 300 PRC.

In terms of reloading data, Hornady and Nosler provide detailed load data on their respective websites. Other powder manufacturers like Hodgdon also have published load data online.

Powder selection for both cartridges is fairly diverse, with Retumbo, H1000, and IMR 7977 being common between both calibers.

Sourcing brass for reloading might be a little trickier, as neither caliber is currently in military or police use and I’m guessing you don’t have a lot of 404 Jeffery or 375 Ruger brass just lying around to form your own cases! The best practice is to retain your brass from factory ammo or purchase new or once fired brass.

Reloading is a great way to help offset the rather steep cost of ammo for both cartridges and can really enhance your downrange accuracy if you plan on shooting long range.

Final Shots: 300 PRC vs 28 Nosler

The 300 PRC and 28 Nosler represent an evolution in long range rifle cartridge development. Instead of trying to make better bullets for old cartridges, Hornady and Nosler started with the ideal bullet and built the cartridge around it.

The 300 PRC is Hornady’s attempt to maximize the performance of the 30-caliber bullet. Utilizing incredibly sleek, high BC bullets, Hornady created a true magnum cartridge that can easily score hits at 1,000 yards and beyond.

The 28 Nosler came into the shooting scene riding off the coattails of the success of the 26 Nosler and sought to push the envelope of the 7mm bullet. Nosler wanted to create a hotrod magnum round that capitalized on the naturally flat trajectory of the 7mm round.

Deciding between the 28 Nosler and 300 PRC comes down to personal preference and your goals as a shooter. The 28 Nosler has less recoil and is flat shooting thanks to higher muzzle velocity at the cost of reduced barrel life. In contrast, the 300 PRC has slightly higher recoil and muzzle energy but has longer barrel life.

No matter which cartridge you choose, make sure you stock up on ammunition here at Ammo.com and I’ll see you on the range!

The John Breen Buck, shot in northern Minnesota in 1918, is considered by many whitetail experts to be the greatest typical ever, despite the fact that at 202 net B&C points he’s several notches down the list from No. 1. This isn’t an attempt to take anything away from the incredible trophies that outscore him, but few other typicals can approach this buck’s “shock value.”

Back in 1903, John took a job as a store clerk in the northern Minnesota town of Bemidji. At that time, a vast area of logged-over woods lay between there and the Canadian border 100 miles to the north. Transportation in the region was difficult, and the use of a horse and buggy was still common. From Bemidji, a railroad ran northeastward all the way to the border town of International Falls. Some 30 miles from Bemidji, the tracks went through the small town of Funkley in Beltrami County. And, that’s where whitetail history was made.

“People who lived north of Bemidji liked to catch the train and ride it into town to do their shopping,” said Ray, John’s youngest son. “In those days, you could flag the train down anywhere along its rout and ride it for two cents a mile. For a lot of people, it was a real treat.

“One of Dad’s customers, Knute Week, lived up near Funkley, at a flagstop place known as Hopt. He would come into Bemidji every so often to do his shopping. Week had access to some good deer hunting land up near Funkley, and he invited Dad to go up and hunt with him,” Ray recalled.

One cold day in November 1918, while two of his sons were overseas fighting in World War I, John grabbed his rifle and gear and hopped aboard the train for Funkley. When he returned home a day or two later, he had with him a deer so large that even back then it cre­ated quite a stir.

“I still can remember when he brought it home,” said Ray, who was 12 at the time. “He had quite a time getting it back to the house. He had to bring it down to Bemidji by train; then he had to get a horse and wagon to transport it from the depot to our house. The story that I always heard was that he was on his stand with his .30/30 rifle when a bunch of deer came by. Several does were being chased by a buck. He raised his rifle and started to shoot at the buck. All of a sudden, he saw this great rack of horns coming through the woods, so he took aim and shot this big buck instead.

“When he got the buck home, everybody came by to see it. A lot of people made a big fuss over it. The rack was so big that even in those days everybody knew that it was something special. The rack was so wide that we had a hard time getting it through the front door of the house.

“Dad knew his buck was really unusual,” Ray added, “and he was awfully proud of it. After much deliberation, he decided to have it mounted. He sent the antlers over to a taxidermist in Duluth—a man named Story. Mr. Story took one look at those antlers and offered him $50 cash for them. Now, $50 was a lot of money back in those days, probably equal to about half a month’s wages. Dad turned him down flat. That deer meant too much to him.

“It seemed like we ate on that old buck for weeks,” Ray added, “and he was one tough old boy. The deer was thin and gaunt when Dad brought him home, despite the size of his antlers. He was a big-bodied deer, and I remember people saying that he weighed well over 200 pounds. Dad tried to give away some of the meat, but it was so tough that nobody wanted it.”

John died in 1947 at the age of 81. Several years later, B&C introduced its new scoring system, and at the urging of friends, the family decided to have the head officially measured. With an unprecedented net typical score of 202 points, the Breen Buck immediately became the world record typical, even though he suffered heavy deductions for non-typical points. The Breen Buck held the record until 1964, when the James Jordan Buck was recognized as a new No. 1 typical.

During the late 1960s, an antler col­lector from the East Coast wrote the Breen family and asked if they wanted to sell the rack.

“His name was Dr. Chuck Arnold, a dentist in Boston,” Ray recalled. “He wasn’t sure whether we spoke English or not, so he wrote to us in both French and English. He said he collected antlers, and he offered us $1,000 for the rack. After talking it over, we decided not to take his offer because we didn’t want the antlers to leave northern Minnesota. After all, Dad’s trophy was Minnesota’s largest typical whitetail of all time (a position the deer still holds today), and we felt it should remain in the state. However, by this time, the old mount was beginning to show its age. For a while, we let it hang in a local store, but most of the time, it hung in our house.

“We talked to sev­eral different museums about possi­bly taking the trophy, but at the time, no one seemed to have much interest in it,” Ray added. “Then, in 1970, Dr. Arnold wrote to us again. This time, he offered us $1,500 for the antlers. He promised us that he would take good care of the trophy and that he would see to it that it got the kind of recognition it deserved. We talked it over and decided to take his offer.”

Dr. Arnold did indeed take good care of the buck . . . and avid whitetail hunters everywhere are glad of it.

The exceptional fact about the Breen buck is that its gross typical frame scored 215 0/8. Six small abnormal points kept this buck from being the world record. Without those points the buck would have had a net score of approximately 210.

The main beams measure 31 2/8″ and 31″ in length, with 6″ bases. The 26 7/8″-wide rack has outstanding tine length and is truly a masterpiece of nature. When compared side by side with similar scoring giants, any hunter would pick this buck as number one!