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100+ Hunting Dog Names: Ideas for Fierce, Loyal & Focused Dogs

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Hunting retriever dog

Your hunting dog is a focused and dedicated partner, helping you find, retrieve, or flush your quarry. Such a loyal and helpful companion deserves a great name, and why not make it hunting-themed?

Whether you have a hound, terrier, retriever, or gun dog, you should be able to find a great name on our list. We’ve gathered over 100 amazing hunting names, covering males, females, unique names, duck hunting names, and names that are just right for a Labrador Retriever. Scroll down to find your new favorite hunting dog name!

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Female Hunting Dog Names

  • Beretta
  • Maverick
  • Scout
  • Emily
  • Sundance
  • Kimber
  • Rebel
  • Samantha
  • Willow
  • Arya
  • Grenade
  • Ivy
  • Rain
  • Kodiak
  • Oakley
  • Dakota
  • Cammie
  • Moxy
  • Copper
  • Spike
  • Aspen
American Foxhound
Image credit: Olga Aniven, Shutterstock

Male Hunting Dog Names

  • Remington
  • Tiger
  • Sauer
  • Killer
  • Bill
  • Cricket
  • Boomer
  • Samson
  • Buck
  • Captain
  • Dash
  • Major
  • Giant
  • Bear
  • Jack
  • Jameson
  • Duke
  • Finn
  • Browning
  • Brutus
  • Hunter
  • Bolt
  • Benelli
police dog training
Image Credit: Piqsels

Unique Hunting Dog Names

  • Outlaw
  • Artemis
  • Camo
  • Arrow
  • Justice
  • Cheetah
  • Liberty
  • Sarge
  • Dandelion
  • Legolas
  • Diesel
  • Hercules
  • Zeus
  • Cedar
  • Oak
  • Brutus
  • Blind
  • Shadow
  • General
  • Vigilante
  • Thor
  • Daisy
  • Athena
  • Atlas
  • Bomb
  • Legend
  • Huckleberry
  • Beast
  • Tank
labrador dog eating vegetables
Image Credit: Fernando Gabino, Shutterstock

Duck Hunting Dog Names

  • Drake
  • Goose
  • Birdie
  • Highball
  • Hawk
  • Blitz
  • Flock
  • Deke
  • Decoy
  • Sparrow
  • Lady Bird
  • Rifle
  • Duckie
  • Radar
  • Mallard
  • Quack
  • Powder
Dog Eating Turkey_shutterstock_Susan Schmitz
Image By: Susan Schmitz, Shutterstock

Hunting Dog Names for Labrador Retrievers

  • Buddy
  • Trapper
  • Bow
  • Lynx
  • Buck
  • Winchester
  • Fetch
  • Shooter
  • Lion
  • Robin
  • Neptune
  • Boomer
  • Fox
  • Fletch
  • Gunner
  • Dixie
  • Chase
  • Retty
  • Ranger

Bonus: Famous Hunting Dog Breeds

There are quite a few hunting dog breeds, including hounds, terriers, and retrievers. Here’s a look at four exceptional hunting dog breeds:

American Foxhound

Foxhounds look a little like Beagles, but as their name suggests, they were specifically bred to hunt foxes. These lean, athletic dogs specialize in hunting and tracking. They’re also low-maintenance, loving family dogs.

Beagle

These popular, loyal hounds make great hunting dogs. They were bred to hunt animals like birds, foxes, rabbits, and even small deer. Curious and adorable dogs, Beagles are intelligent and easy to train.

Bloodhound

As you’ve probably seen in countless detective movies, Bloodhounds have an amazing sense of smell. They’re good at tracking prey using scent and have been used by search and rescue teams to find missing persons.

Golden Retriever

In recent times, Golden Retrievers have become popular family dogs, but they were originally used as bird hunting companions. As their name should tell you, Golden Retrievers are good at retrieving birds after you’ve shot them. They’re also loyal, smart, and athletic dogs with friendly dispositions and beautiful golden coats.

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Finding the Right Name for Your Hunting Dog

Have you found a great name for your hunting dog? We hope that our extensive list has shown you the wide range of the hunting dog names available, whether you prefer something unique like Artemis or duck-themed like Mallard. Your hunting partner will thank you for taking the time to find just the right name!

Not quite there? Don’t worry, we’ve got plenty of other creative options:

  • 100+ Perfect Names for Brown Dogs
  • What should you name your Golden Retriever?
  • The Best Italian Dog Names

Featured Image Credit: Pxfuel

European foxes

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Standard Operating Procedure – FOX006

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Background

The introduced European red fox (Vulpes vulpes) has a significant impact on native fauna and agricultural production. Fox control methods include lethal baiting, trapping, shooting, den fumigation, den destruction and exclusion fencing.

Trapping may be useful for the control of nuisance animals but is not effective as a general fox control method.

Cage traps are used to capture problem foxes in urban/residential areas and other areas where it is unacceptable or undesirable to use 1080 or leg-hold traps. Animals trapped in a cage can be transported away from the area for euthanasia. Padded-jaw, leg-hold traps can only be used at sites where the animal can be killed by shooting while still held in the trap. (Refer to Trapping of foxes using padded-jaw traps.)

From an animal welfare perspective, cage traps are preferred over leg-hold traps as fewer injuries are sustained and non-target animals can be released unharmed.

This standard operating procedure (SOP) is a guide only; it does not replace or override the legislation that applies in the relevant state or territory jurisdiction. The SOP should only be used subject to the applicable legal requirements (including OH&S) operating in the relevant jurisdiction.

Application

  • Trapping is time-consuming and labour intensive and is therefore an inefficient method for large-scale fox control in Australia.
  • Cage traps are generally not effective in rural environments where foxes are more suspicious of man-made structures.
  • Traps have the potential to cause significant suffering and distress so should only be used when there is no suitable alternative.
  • Humane and successful trapping requires extensive training and experience.
  • Selection of appropriate traps and trap sites will maximise chance of capture and minimise the distress caused to target and non-target animals.
  • Every effort must be made to avoid target and non-target deaths from factors such as exposure, shock, capture myopathy and predation.
  • Once trapped, foxes are either euthanased by shooting at the site of capture or taken to an appropriate site away from residential areas to be shot whilst still in the cage or after transfer to a bag.
  • Traps must be used in accordance with relevant state and territory legislation (see Appendix 1). In some states for example, Western Australia, a permit may be required to trap within certain municipalities.
  • Shooting of foxes should only be performed by skilled operators who have the necessary experience with firearms and who hold the appropriate licences and accreditation. Storage and transportation of firearms and ammunition must comply with relevant legislation requirements.

Animal welfare considerations

Impact on target animals

  • Foxes are likely to suffer distress from being confined in a cage trap and they can sometimes be injured while trying to escape, although the potential for injury is less than that for leg-hold traps.
  • Cage traps can cause extensive injuries to the teeth and mouth of trapped foxes; this is minimised by using a small mesh size (50 mm is recommended).
  • Traps must be inspected daily to prevent suffering and possible death from exposure, thirst, starvation and/or shock.
  • It is preferable to set up traps at sites where vegetation can provide shade and shelter.
  • Shade cloth or hessian can be for used for protection during extremes of weather. In hot weather, water should be provided and in cold weather bedding should be available inside the cage. Where possible, trapping should be avoided when adverse weather conditions threaten the welfare of trapped animals.
  • Captured animals must be approached carefully and quietly to reduce panic, further stress and risk of injury.
  • Trapped foxes must be euthanased as quickly and humanely as possible.
  • If transporting a trapped fox away from the capture site to be euthanased, the cage should be covered with hessian or a blanket to provide shelter from direct sunlight, wind and rain and to minimise stress from visual threats.
  • To minimise the animal welfare implications of orphaning dependant cubs, it is preferable not to undertake trapping when vixens are lactating (i.e. August/September).
  • If lactating vixens are shot, reasonable efforts should be made to find dependent cubs and kill them quickly and humanely by either shooting (with a single shot to the brain) or by fumigation of the den with carbon monoxide (refer to Fumigation of fox dens with carbon monoxide).

Impact on non-target animals

  • Traps must not be set near areas that are regularly frequented by non-target species.
  • Traps are not target specific; therefore other species such as birds and reptiles may be caught.
  • Non-target animals caught in traps must be examined for injuries and signs of illness or distress and dealt with as follows: – Animals which are unharmed or have only received minimal injuries such as minor cuts or abrasions should be immediately released at the site of capture. – Animals which have more severe injuries or which are suffering from thermal stress should receive appropriate attention. An animal suffering from thermal stress can initially be placed in a suitable quiet holding area which provides warmth or shade to allow recovery before release. Animals with treatable injuries that cannot be immediately released or those failing to recover from thermal stress should be presented to a veterinarian or a registered wildlife carer for treatment. – Animals that have injuries which are untreatable or which would compromise their survival in the wild should be euthanased using a technique that is suitable for the species. For more information on euthanasia techniques (refer to GEN001 Methods of Euthanasia).
  • If a dog or a cat is caught in the trap, it should be taken to the nearest council pound for assessment. In some states this is a legal requirement. Traps placed in urban/residential areas have a reasonable likelihood of catching owned dogs or cats.

Health and safety considerations

  • Trapped foxes are dangerous to handle and can inflict serious bites. If these foxes are killed while still in the cage, there should be no need to handle them directly. However, if handling is necessary, leather gloves and a catching pole should be used. Operators must be protected by tetanus immunisation in case of bite infection.
  • Firearms are hazardous. All people should stand well behind the shooter when a fox is being shot. The line of fire must be chosen to prevent accidents or injury from stray bullets or ricochets.
  • Care must be taken when handling fox carcasses as they may carry diseases such as hydatidosis and sarcoptic mange that can affect humans and other animals. A fox with obvious mange should only be handled while wearing gloves. Routinely wash hands after handling all fox carcasses.

Equipment required

Traps

  • Wire mesh cage traps are used. These can be obtained from commercial suppliers and are available in a variety of sizes (eg a fox size cage is 90 cm x 45 cm x 45 cm, and made of 2.5 mm welded wire with a mesh size of 50 mm). The traps have a spring door that is activated either by a treadle plate or a hook mechanism.

Lures

  • Olfactory stimuli such as fox faeces or urine (or a mixture of both) or a commercially prepared lure (e.g. synthetic fermented egg) may be used to lure foxes into the trap.
  • The attractiveness of lures will vary with season and location.

Meat baits

  • A handful of meat bait is placed inside the cage trap. Rabbit, lamb, chicken, and kangaroo have all been used as bait.
  • Attractiveness and palatability of the bait will vary with season and location.

Firearms and ammunition

  • Firearms no smaller than a .17 calibre rimfire with hollow/soft point ammunition are recommended for euthanasia.
  • The accuracy and precision of firearms should be tested against inanimate targets prior to the commencement of any shooting operation.

Procedures

Selection of trap sites

  • Traps should be set along fences, tracks and trails or areas frequented by foxes for example, scent pads, scratch points, holes in fences, around carcases.
  • The location of all trap sites must be accurately recorded. This information should be readily available to others in case the trapper is unable to return to check traps.
  • Do not place in areas where the traps may be interfered with/damaged by large stock or humans.

Placing and setting the trap

  • It is preferable to set traps at the end of each day and check early each morning. If traps are left set during the day, they should be checked again in late afternoon.
  • Before setting each trap ensure that it is functioning properly.
  • Where possible place the traps parallel to objects such as fences, logs or sheds with the rear of the cage against an obstruction to prevent foxes taking the main bait without going into the trap.
  • Cage traps should be set squarely on the ground and the doors of the trap bent upward to increase the openness of the trap space.
  • Place the meat bait at the rear of the trap, attached to the hook mechanism if present. A second piece of meat is placed at the mouth of the trap.
  • Cover the floor of the trap with 3-5cm of soil.
  • If using lures place them in suitable positions inside and outside the trap.
  • The trap should be pegged to the ground to prevent the animal from tipping it over and injuring itself and/or releasing the trap door.

Shooting of foxes

  • Trapped live foxes should be destroyed by shooting whilst still inside the cage trap.
  • Unnecessary people should keep away from the area to allow the fox to become less agitated. The shooter should approach the animal in a calm and quiet manner.
  • To maximise the impact of the shot and to minimise the risk of misdirection the range should be as short as possible, that is, 3-5 cm from the head.
  • Never fire when the fox is moving its head, be patient and wait until the fox is motionless before shooting. Accuracy is important to achieve a humane death. One shot to the head should ensure instantaneous loss of consciousness and rapid death without resumption of consciousness.
  • Shots must be aimed to destroy the major centres at the back of the brain near the spinal cord. This can be achieved by one of the following methods (see Diagram 1):

Frontal position (front view)

The firearm is aimed at a point midway between the level of the eyes and the base of the ears, but slightly off to one side so as to miss the bony ridge that runs down the middle of the skull. The aim should be slightly across the centreline of the skull and towards the spine.

Temporal position (side view)

The firearm is aimed horizontally at the side of the head at a point midway between the eye and the base of the ear.

  • Death of shot animals should always be confirmed by observing the following: – absence of rhythmic, respiratory movements – absence of eye protection reflex (corneal reflex) or ‘blink’ – a fixed, glazed expression in the eyes – loss of colour in mucous membranes (become mottled and pale without refill after pressure is applied). If death cannot be verified, a second shot to the head should be taken immediately.

References

  • Baker PJ, Harris S, Robertson CPJ, Saunders G and White PCL (2001). Differences in the capture rate of cage-trapped red foxes Vulpes vulpes and an evaluation of rabies control measures in Britain. Journal of Applied Ecology 38:823-835.
  • Canadian Council on Animal Care (2003). Guidelines on the care and use of wildlife. CCAC, Ottawa, Canada. Kay B, Gifford E, Perry P and van de Ven R (2000). Trapping efficiency for foxes (Vulpes vulpes) in central New South Wales: age and sex biases and the effects of reduced fox abundance. Wildlife Research 27:547-552.
  • Longair JA, Finley GG, Laniel MA, MacKay C, Mould K, Olfert ED, Roswell H and Preston A (1991). Guidelines for euthanasia of domestic animals by firearms. Canadian Veterinary Journal 32:724-726.
  • Saunders G, Coman B, Kinnear J and Braysher M (1995). Managing vertebrate pests: foxes. Australian Government Publishing Service, Canberra.
  • UFAW (1988). Humane killing of animals (4th Ed). Universities Federation for Animal Welfare, Potters Bar, England.

The Centre for Invasive Species Solutions manages these documents on behalf of the Environment and Invasives Committee (EIC). The authors of these documents have taken care to validate the accuracy of the information at the time of writing. This information has been prepared with care but it is provided “as is”, without warranty of any kind, to the extent permitted by law.

The Best Bass Fishing Lures

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We’re not sure if Bob Carnes knew what he had immediately when he created the Arkie Jig. But we do know what he had was something incredibly special to bass fishing. Carnes was building baits in Arkansas and was looking for a way to make jigs more weedless and attractive to bass. He thought if he could make a balanced head for his bucktail jigs and add a brush guard to protect the hook he could fish his jig in more places.

He saw a TV show where they were using a jig with a fiberguard. At the time he was looking at wire guards for his jigs but the demand for the fiberguard after that TV show aired forced his hand, and he had to figure out a way to mold a fiberguard into leadhead. All the while he was tweaking on the shape of the head to keep it from snagging. It started more like a banana head, then he shortened it and flattened and widened it to make keep it level and upright which was critical to avoiding snags.

Once he got the jig head design and fiberguard correct he began tying the first jigs with bucktail. But he saw the Gilmore Lure Company Spinnerbait had some sort of rubber bands hanging off of it. He wasn’t sure what it was exactly or even how to get a hold of the rubber. He knew underwear had elastic in it as did women’s girdles. They actually traced the girdle’s rubber back to a rubber company and got them to color some rubber for them.

The rest as they say is history, but the lasting effect of some simple necessity has continued for more than 50 years. A skirted snagless jig has arguably won more national tournaments than any other lure. There for a time in the 80s, every tournament of any significance was being won on them. In the early days of the B.A.S.S. Tour, there were something like five tournaments in a row won on Carnes jigs and no one told anyone. They were keeping it secret.

Bo Dowden won the Classic in 1980 on a brown and orange Arkie Jig and the boom for Carnes’s snagless jig was going full steam ahead. The jig was carried in Walmart Stores in the early 70s when it was still just a regional chain. And after word spread and Walmart grew, access to his Arkie jig was much easier.

Now just about every jig manufacturer and component shop carries the Arkie style head for flipping. It was a lasting innovation that is every bit as good today as it was 50 years ago.

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U.S. fisher's lake trout catch poses challenge to record set in N.W.T.

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A 33.24-kilogram lake trout.

A greenish-grayish speckled whopper the weight of a golden retriever.

That’s a big fish.

And that’s the fish that Scott Enloe reeled in from the Blue Mesa Reservoir, a man-made lake in Colorado, last week.

Enloe’s catch poses a challenge to the record set by angler Lloyd Bull, who pulled a 32.6-kilogram lake trout from waters in the Northwest Territories in 1995.

“It’s obviously the largest one I’ve ever seen,” Enloe said of his remarkable haul.

“It was exactly 47 inches long and it had a 37-inch girth … I’m a 35-inch waist and it was bigger than me.”

Catch may not officially break record

But Enloe’s catch may not make it into the International Game Fish Association’s (IGFA) record books, where Bull holds the top lake trout spot.

That’s because the organization requires that fish be weighed on land.

Enloe weighed, measured and photographed his fish on his boat — and then he let it go.

“Whether I get my name in the books or not, that’s irrelevant to me,” he said. “I was not going to kill the fish regardless.”

Zac Bellapigna, angler recognition coordinator for the IGFA, said Enloe wouldn’t have had to kill his trout, necessarily. Fishers can bring their fish to shore, weigh them, and release them alive.

“I commend him for releasing the fish alive, that’s a good thing,” said Bellapigna.

‘One of the best fishing spots in the world’

About 3,000 kilometres north of the Blue Mesa Reservoir sits the majestic Great Bear Lake, site of an Indigenous-led UNESCO-recognized biosphere reserve. It’s known for producing some of the biggest lake trout ever caught.

“Growing up, we caught a lot of pretty big trout,” said Naokah Bailes, who was raised in the Sahtu region and has been fishing in Great Bear Lake since she was small.

“Little did I know I was actually fishing at probably one of the best fishing spots in the world.”

The people who know Great Bear Lake, or who’ve visited, give many reasons for why the lake is a unique place to cast a line.

For one, it’s huge — one of the world’s largest — and there’s only one community on its shores: Délı̨nę, which has a population of a little over 600.

“It’s such a small community, right?” said Bailes. “Even if someone’s out there fishing all day, the lake is so big we would never have an actual impact on the fish populations.”

Even bigger fish netted in Great Bear Lake in 2009

Ask people in the Délı̨nę about fish, and one name comes up again and again: George Kenny.

Kenny netted a lake trout from Great Bear topping 38 kilograms in 2009.

That fish didn’t survive, and it’s now memorialized in the community’s Great Bear Lodge.

“There’s something about the genetics, also, in Great Bear Lake that produces very large fish,” said Mike Bryant, who once penned a column as the “Fishin’ Technician” and is now the group publisher for Northern News Services in Yellowknife.

Not all its trout grow to “super sizes,” he said, but a strain of them do.

Bryant, who visited the lake in 1997 and plans to return this summer, pointed out that a good chunk of IGFA’s lake trout line class records have been set at Great Bear Lake.

“Great Bear Lake is like an aquarium. It’s full of fish,” said Danny Gaudet, Ɂekw’ahtide (leader) of the Deline Got’ine government.

Gaudet also fishes — but for food, not trophies.

There’s nothing that compares to the meat on a Great Bear Lake fish, he said, and you’re always guaranteed to catch one.

Gaudet said that if more tourists travel to Great Bear Lake for fishing, and fish in a sustainable way, it could benefit the community’s economy.

It’s one reason why he says he’s actually happy for Scott Enloe, because big catches like that draw in tourism.

“If it sustains that economy for them, that’s great,” he said. “Of course, we’re from Great Bear Lake and we will break the record again.”

Does Fly Fishing Catch More Fish? We Think So & Why

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There are many different types of fishing, yet which is the most effective? In this guide, we will explain everything you need to know about fly fishing, including whether you will catch more fish and how to catch as many fish as possible. We believe that fly fishing can be one of the most productive forms of fishing.

One of the unique things about fly fishing is that every detail of your cast can be customized to specifically target the sort of fish you’re aiming for. You can utilize a general-use fly rod, or you can opt to purchase a rod that has been designed to assist you in specific ways. Combined with the endless amount of techniques and combinations it gives you the most optimal approach at catching large amounts of fish.

What is fly fishing?

Before we delve deeper into fly fishing and just how effective it is, it is essential to explain what this method involves. When fishing via traditional means, a cast is made that will use some sort of bait or lure, which is attached to the end of the line. The line is typically one of the newer braided lines or a monofilament.

One thing that is noticeable about this type of setup is that the line is a lightweight and very thin material, with the bait or lure being the heaviest part. This makes it so that when the cast is let loose, your bait or lure is what will carry momentum through the air, trailing the lightweight line behind.

Now, if you were to cast an object that was light in weight, you would have noticed that making the cast go very far is a challenge! In all traditional types of fishing, it is the weight of the lure that is vital.

Traditional Lure Casting Method

If you have ever seen someone fly cast, you will have probably noticed some distinctive differences between traditional lure casting and fly casting. Specialized fly fishing equipment is used by the angler to achieve this cast. This includes a purpose-built fly rod, as well as fly, tippet, leader, and a fly line.

The main difference when it comes to fly casting is that the artificial flies utilized to catch the fish are very lightweight. Even when you use much larger flies for pike or bass fishing, the weight is going to be minimal when compared with traditional bait, such as casting a spinning lure.

Fly Casting Method

With this approach, the key to getting the fly out to where the fish are is with the right fly line. In this casting method, the fly line is the weight. Through the use of a casting method that enables the fly line and the fly roof to work in unison, the weight of lined is utilized for carrying the fly out in front of you through the energy being transferred that has been built up in the line, down through the line, and out toward the end of it.

The most important aspect of fly fishing is knowing how to fly cast. There are some specific techniques in fly fishing that are not going to need much casting. However, the vast majority of what you will do in fly fishing will incorporate casting.

So, now let’s get into fly fishing and what it actually is. This revolves around the presentation of an artificial lure called a fly to a fish, which will typically imitate some sort of insect. This is the basic concept of fly fishing. The aim here is attempting to mimic the natural food base for a fish, getting them to take the fly. You are mostly trying to trick the fish.

The flies that you use for this can vary to insects that live under the water’s surface to those that float on the surface, from caddis to mayflies. Different approaches to fly fishing are required based on the type of fly you use. Some of the materials that tend to be used are as follows:

  • Feathers from birds, such as pheasants and ducks
  • Hairs and furs from animals, like moose, elk, deer, muskrats, and beavers
  • Wires, tinsel, and other types of ribbing materials
  • Tungsten beads, brass, and glass
  • Artificially created synthetic materials

The Main Differences Between Spin Fishing and Fly Fishing

In order to give you a true reflection of the differences between spin fishing and fly fishing, we have put together the main differences in a table below.

Differences

Spin Fishing

Fly Fishing

Lures vs. flies

Spin fishing utilizes heavier lures, which frequently imitate fish.

Fly fishing uses flies – including streamers, emergers, nymphs, and dry flies – to imitate all of the different types of food that fish feed one.

Rod type

Spin rods are used. They are heavier lines, which are cast monofilament lines that have a single cast.

Fly rods are used. These use false casting to cast the line, which is lightweight.

Lakes vs. rivers

Spin fishing tends to mainly be done on Stillwater.

Fly fishing tends to be done on moving water. However, it can also be done on Stillwater as well.

Line type

A monofilament line or another sort of line is used to cast lures that are heavier and do not require a heavier line to cast.

To cast the lightweight flies, a fly line, tippet, and leader are used.

Presentation

Spin fishing works effectively when imitating crawdads or baitfish. They are presented in the water at all depths, after which they are retrieved and then brought to you.

Fly fishing enables you to have a stealthier and upstream presentation. When you are fly fishing, you can also work in tighter quarters.

Some other differences do exist between the two types of fishing. However, we hope that the table above will help you to clearly understand the main differences between the two.

Does Fly Fishing Catch More Fish?

While each of the fishing styles is different, they all offer unique advantages in specific situations. However, there are a number of reasons why people believe that you can catch more fish with fly fishing, so let’s take a look at them below…

You can customize your fishing experience.

One of the unique things about fly fishing is that every detail of your cast can be customized to specifically target the sort of fish you’re aiming for. You can utilize a general-use fly rod, or you can opt to purchase a rod that has been designed to assist you in specific ways.

Once your rod has been personalized, this gives you the ability to customize your line. The weight, style, and length can be adjusted. This means your line is going to more significant meet your needs; you can amend the tippet and the leader. With fly fishing, you can quickly achieve a shorter or longer leader.

When it comes to tippets, there are several different styles of tippets that can be utilized with your line. The leader and the tippet are utilized so that the line is virtually invisible to the fish. They also make it a lot easier for the flies to be attached and detached from your line, enabling easy and quick transitions between casts.

One of the most customized parts of fly fishing is the flies. There are a number of different flies that you can buy that can help you with attracting the sort of fish you want to catch. You can do some research, watch your surroundings, and tie your own flies. This means that your fishing experience is ultra-customized, and it also means that you are going to be able to increase your chances of catching as many fish as possible.

The fly is delivered to the fish in a manner that is inconspicuous

Aside from the benefits that have been mentioned so far, there are a number of other advantages that are associated with fly fishing that tend to make it more beneficial. This includes the fact that the fly is delivered to the fish in a manner that is inconspicuous when the cast is done properly. The fly will be cast against the current, and then it is allowed to drift for a distance, in the same manner, that a typical bug falling into moving water would. Your goal here is to make sure the fly is delivered in a manner that the fish does not think there is something unnatural about it. If you are able to fool them, they will take a bite on the line.

You can catch a wide range of species

Last but not least, another reason why people believe you can catch more fish with fly fishing is that you will be able to catch all types of species. This includes bluegills, bass, trout, and many more.

Some of the main species of fish that fly fishing are successful with are as follows:

  • Bonefish
  • Tuna
  • Tarpon
  • Carp
  • Panfish
  • Bass
  • Pike
  • Salmon
  • Grayling
  • Trout

How to catch even more fish with fly fishing

As discussed, there are a lot of different characteristics that are associated with fly fishing that result in it being more successful than conventional fishing. However, this is only going to be the case if you get your technique down. With that being said, below, we are going to reveal some of the different tips that you can use in order to catch more fish with fly fishing.

Watch the bugs

The first step you need to take when fly fishing is to be observant and watch the bugs! Before you begin to cast away, you need to pay attention to the bugs that are near the water or on the water. Take a look at what kind of bugs the fish are eating. By doing this, you will be able to determine what sort of fly is going to be the most effective and result in you catching the most fish. You also need to think about what trout could be eating under the surface of the water. Try some of your wet flies or nymphs that match the most common underwater snacks. Simply choosing a fly without thought is not the way to go if you want to catch as many fish as possible while trout fly fishing!

Test the length of your leader

The next tip to ensuring you catch as many fish as possible when fly fishing is to test the leader’s length. Depending on the technique and fly you use, you may want either a shorter or longer leader length. For wet or dry flies, try using a longer leader. This should be anywhere between 12 and 20 feet. A shorter leader is going to be more beneficial if you are utilizing a streamer, so go for something between seven and eight feet. It is more than okay for you to try out different lengths on your leader so that you can figure out which is going to be the most effective for you and the fish you are trying to catch.

For more information on leader length check out our full article here:

Approach fish carefully

When you are stalking fish, make sure you approach low and make the most of any cover that you can, for example, bushes and long grass rushes. If you can, make sure you keep a low profile, especially when you are on a high bank with the skyline behind you. Remember, when a fish is deep, it is going to be able to see you from further away than fish that are close to the surface. This is because of the way in which fish see. They have an impeccable vision. They have the ability to uniquely adapt their vision to distinguish predators and locate food. This is why you need to do everything in your effort to blend into your surroundings. You may not think so but wearing bright clothes is only going to lower your success rates.

Walk softly and be as quiet as possible

Once you are in pole position, it is important to walk softly and to be as quiet as possible. This is something a lot of people take for granted. Nevertheless, fish are as sensitive to vibration and noise as they are to visual warnings. If you walk softly on the banks of the river and you try to wade as quietly and slowly as you can, you will definitely notice better results. Of course, trout don’t have ears, but what they do have is lateral lines that they use for detecting vibration and movement in the surrounding water.

Avoid overcasting to the fish

This is one mistake we see a lot of people make when it comes to fly fishing. Catching a fish does not always demand that you use a long cast. After all, you never know what fish could be right in front of you, do you? Before you attempt to catch any fish that are further away, make sure you check the area close to you. Not only do you never know what sort of fish are going to be near you, but it is going to be a lot easier for the hook to be set from a shorter distance rather than one that is far away.

Use the entire rod

Another tip that is important when it comes to fly fishing success is to use the full rod. A lot of fishermen think that they are more likely to win a fight against a fish if the rod is as straight in the air as possible. However, the outcome is not usually a positive one when this happens. Instead, the line either breaks, or the rod does. Instead, you should make sure your rod is nearer to a 45-degree angle instead. This will mean that you are not just using the tip of the rod; you are going to be using the entire rod. When it comes to fighting a fish, it is not all about strength. In fact, it is skill that is most important.

Stay safe

We also have to stress just how important it is to stay safe! After all, if you hurt yourself, you are not going to be able to catch as many fish as possible, are you? There are lots of different steps that can be taken here. For example, you need to wear a hat and some sunglasses so that your eyes are protected. When spotting fish, premium quality polarized sunglasses are always going to provide you with help. Plus, only wade if you need to, and make sure you are always careful when you do. Use a wading belt as well; this is a must.

Cast from your elbow and wrist

Last but not least, our final tip when it comes to getting your technique right in order to catch as many fish as possible is to make sure you cast from the elbow and wrist. A good cast does not mean that the whole arm must be utilized. Instead, it focuses more on the movements of your wrist. Your wrist needs to be straight, yet it should also be relaxed. It is the rod that needs to be doing the vast majority of the work for you. It takes a lot of practice in order to get the perfect cast. Therefore, the best thing that you can do in this regard is to practice, practice, and practice some more!

More Fish, and More Consistent Results

Not only do you have the potential to catch a greater number of fish with fly fishing but you can expect more consistent results as well. This comes down to the tactics that are involved in fly fishing. When you are spin fishing, the lure, whether it is biological or artificial, is put into the water’s depths in order to try and allure the fish into biting it. The lure needs to look like a source of food in order to tempt the fish so that they bite it. Some people have stated that the fish need to be in a certain type of feeding mood in order for this type of fishing to be successful.

When it comes to fly fishing, the end goal is to try and trick the fish into biting a fly that looks like one of their food sources. This can be a fly, as mentioned, or another type of aquatic insect. This is done on top of the water, at the bottom or anywhere that the fish are feeding. The key here is to try and mimic the natural behaviors of the food source as closely as possible, so that is presented in a way that fools the fish and they take the bait.

If you have ever tried fishing before, you will have probably experienced the instance whereby your lure is presented and the fish end up being spooked on the impact of the lure entering the water. This is something that does not happen with fly fishing because the presentation is on the water and above the fish. Because of this, you are unlikely to spook the fish, and this is how you end up with results that are a lot more consistent.

Other Reasons Why Fly Fishing is More Productive

Aside from being able to catch a greater number of fish, because you can personalize your fishing experience, there are a number of other reasons why fly fishing is considered better than spin fishing, and so we are going to take a look at these below.

You will enjoy the experience

Not only can you customize your fishing experience to ensure you catch more fish but there is no denying that fly fishing is much more experienced orientated as well. There are more factors that go into fly fishing and a lot of different things that need to be considered. This is why fly fishing is more fun. It can also be more challenging and more practice is needed in order to get it right. However, isn’t this what the thrill of fishing is all about?

It’s extremely rewarding

The former

Giving a Firearm as a Gift? Some Reminders from NSSF

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November 23, 2022

With gift-buying season upon us, it’s natural for gun owners who enjoy target shooting, hunting, collecting or just plain plinking to want to share their enjoyment of firearms with others. What better way to do that than to gift a firearm to a family member, close friend or relative?

The first thing to remember if you’re thinking about giving someone a gun is that ownership of a firearm brings with it some serious responsibilities and legal obligations that other consumer products don’t. Additionally, there are some retailers out there that do not have a license but sell guns anyway. Therefore, you’d better browse reputable platforms like Arms Directory to make sure you purchase from a firearm dealer who has a permit. Now, without further ado, let’s look at some questions you may have about giving a firearm as a gift.

Consider a Gift Card

The Bureau of Alcohol. Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) recommends that if you want to give someone a new firearm, rather than going to a gun store, buying it on your own and giving it to, say, your father, consider instead purchasing a gift certificate from that retailer and giving it to dad as his present. That way he’ll get the exact gun he wants, and there’s no question about who is “the actual buyer of the firearm,” which is a question any purchaser must certify on the Federal Form 4473 at the time of purchase.

Buying a Gun as a Gift

Giving a firearm with a gift card
Consider using a gift certificate from a firearms retailer near where the recipient lives.

Let’s assume, however, you do not want to give a gift card because you want to give “Old Betsy,” your favorite old deer rifle, to your son or daughter or you want to see the joy on their face when they unwrap their present. The first question you then must ask is whether the intended recipient can legally own a firearm at all. Remember, you can never under any circumstances transfer a firearm to someone you know — or have reasonable cause to believe — legally can’t own one. That’s a federal felony, so be careful. Pre-January 1, 1899, antique firearms are generally exempt but be safe and check with your retailer or local law enforcement before you hand over your prized possession.

The next question is whether the person can own the gifted firearm where he or she lives. With more than 20,000 different gun laws on the books, even the kinds of firearms that law-abiding citizens can own vary from place to place; for example, juveniles (under age 18), generally speaking, are precluded by law from possessing a handgun, and some states restrict certain types of firearms and magazine sizes. Check out the ATF website for an overview of local laws or contact your state’s attorney general’s office.

It is legal to purchase a firearm from a licensed firearm retailer that you intend to give as a gift. There’s no law that prohibits a gift of a firearm to a relative or friend who lives in your home state. However, whether you purchase a new firearm or want to gift a gun you already own, keep in mind that some states (California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, New York, Oregon, Rhode Island, Washington State) and the District of Columbia require you to transfer a firearm through a local licensed firearm retailer so an instant background check will be performed to make sure the recipient is not legally prohibited from owning the gun. Maryland and Pennsylvania require a background check for a private-party transfer of a handgun. There are exceptions*, so it’s important to carefully check the law of your state or ask your local firearm retailer.

If the person you want to give the gift of a firearm to does not reside in the same state as you, then under federal law you have to ship the firearm to a licensed firearm retailer in the state where the recipient lives who can transfer the firearm after a background check.

Shipping a Firearm

You can only ship a handgun by common carrier (but not U.S. mail) and a long gun by U.S. mail or common carrier to a federally licensed retailer, but not to a non-licensed individual in another state. With all carriers, federal law requires you to declare that your package contains an unloaded firearm. To be safe, always consult your carrier in advance about its regulations for shipping firearms.

Giving a Gun as a Gift

As you can see, there are a lot of things to consider when making a gift of firearm to ensure you do it properly. Using a gift certificate from a firearm retailer near where the gift recipient lives might be the best solution in order to avoid legal pitfalls and state law variations.

It’s often an emotional moment when a treasured family heirloom is passed down to the next generation. These moments are part of what our cherished enjoyment of firearms is all about and represent that unique bond that sportsmen and sportswomen have with their fellow enthusiasts.

So, enjoy the holidays and do it right!

*In New Mexico, for example, a background check is required on “sales” of firearms—those transferred for a fee or other consideration—but not when a person transfers ownership of a firearm without compensation or exchanging anything of value.

Find Firearm Retailers Near You

Other Gift Options for Target Shooters

Not sure what to get the target shooters in your life this holiday season? We’ve got you covered with these 10 great gift ideas.

More Ways to Give

Those who donate to worthy causes, consider making a gift in support of Project ChildSafe®, NSSF’s award-winning community gun safety program that helps prevent firearm accidents, thefts and misuse, including suicide.

The Project ChildSafe Safety Sweepstakes has opened and offers seven great prizes manufactured or donated by Vault Pro, Beretta, Leica, OpticsPlanet, Mossberg, Kalispel, GTM/CZY and Yeti. Anyone may enter, and those who are planning to attend SHOT Show® can enter during the registration process. Funds raised help support NSSF’s Project ChildSafe firearm safety program.

PCS Sweepstakes

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Categories: BP Item, Education, Featured, Government Relations, Hunting, Retailers, Shooting, Top Stories

3 Best Methods for Cleaning Bluegill and Sunfish

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Bluegill and sunfish are fun to catch and make great table fare. But for years I practiced strict catch-and-release whenever I targeted bream because I felt there wasn’t enough meat for the effort required.

Then a buddy of mine invited me to a bluegill fish fry, and I realized just how wrong I’d been.

From that point on, I was a believer in cleaning and eating a portion of the bluegill and sunfish I caught. The truth is, they’re really not that difficult to clean, and their mild flavor and flaky white meat make them some of the best-tasting freshwater fish you can eat.

If you haven’t given fried bream a try, you don’t know what you’re missing!

RELATED: Are Bluegill Good to Eat? [Answered]

There are three primary ways to clean bluegill and sunfish, each with its own advantages and disadvantages. Let’s take a look at the three methods, and you can ultimately decide which best suits your needs.

Scaled and Dressed

By far, the easiest way to clean bluegills is the scaled and dressed method, which only requires three simple steps:

  1. Cut off the head of the fish, right behind the pectoral fin.
  2. Dress the fish by cutting the belly open from the anus to where you cut off the head. You can then remove all the internal organs.
  3. Scale the fish. This is a simple process of removing the fish’s scales by scraping them from the rear of the fish towards the front (the opposite direction than they are laying).

There are tools specifically made to scale fish, but it can also be done with the edge of a knife blade or even a spoon. To get a good visual of the process, check out the YouTube video below.

The biggest benefit of this method is that it’s quick and easy. And since you often have a bunch of bluegill or sunfish to clean at once, that means less time cleaning fish, and more time kicked back enjoying a cold beverage while talking about the one that got away.

The downside is you’ll have all the bones to contend with, so you and your guests have to be extra careful to ensure no one accidentally swallows a bone. You also have the skin on, which some fish eaters don’t care for.

Skinned and Dressed

The second easiest way to clean bluegills is similar to the first, but rather than scaling the fish, you take the time to skin it. You still remove the head and internal organs.

The only real benefit to this method over scaling and gutting is that it eliminates the skin for those who don’t like the flavor. You still have the bones to deal with.

Personally, this is the one method discussed here that I don’t personally waste my time on, but I wanted to mention it for those who may find it beneficial (I’m looking at you, crunchy fish skin lovers).

Filleted

While filleting bluegill is a little more time-consuming, and requires a little more finesse, it’s my preferred way to prepare them. With a little practice, you’ll be able to filet bream almost as quickly as you can scale and dress them, and you won’t have to worry about getting a fish bone caught in your throat.

Fileting bluegill isn’t difficult, but you’ll need a couple of tools to make the job go smoothly: a sharp fillet knife and a good cutting board.

It’s much easier to show someone how to fillet a fish than it is to describe in an article, so we’ve included an excellent video below from the Kentucky Department of Fish and Wildlife Resources.

But to summarize, after gutting the fish, you make a cut behind the pectoral fin until you hit the spine at the top, and the opening where you gutted the fish at the bottom. Then turn your blade toward the back of the fish, and run it down the spine at the top, and through the middle of the belly on the bottom. When you get to the tail, stop just short of removing the whole side of the fish.

Flip the half over the tail, then proceed to run your knife blade right along the skin of the fish, removing all the meat. Once you’ve removed the skin, you still have one step left. The rib bones are still in the fillet at this point, so you want to carefully cut them out, minimizing the amount of meat that comes out with them.

Once the ribs are out, you should have a nice boneless bluegill fillet ready for some breading and the frying pan!

Summary

Bluegill are plentiful, fun to catch, and delicious to eat. So don’t let the thought of a little fish cleaning keep you from taking advantage of the opportunity to host a fish fry for family or friends. There are a few great ways to quickly and efficiently process the fish, and whichever method you choose, the result will be mouth-watering fried bluegill.

Snow Goose Spread Strategy

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Shooting from about 25 yards results in an ideal shot pattern to kill snow geese.

Without question, spring snow goose hunting requires a large decoy spread. But the act of merely scattering a lot of white decoys in a field doesn’t ensure you’ll suck in wave after wave of hungry geese.

“A lot of guys think it’s just about numbers,” said Andy Dively of A&A Outdoors in Frankford, Del. “But putting out 1,000 decoys doesn’t mean you’re guaranteed to get shooting. You have to put thought into how you set them.”

Typically, Dively starts out early in the morning with a spread shaped like a triangle. The wide end is downwind and the point, where the hunters hide, is upwind. The spread is fairly sparse at the downwind end, with decoys thicker as the rig stretches toward the hunters.

“Snow geese are greedy,” he said. “They’re constantly jumping over one another, flying upwind to get to the front of the chow line. We try to imitate that with our spread.”

Dively’s 100-yard-long snow goose rig typically is about 90 yards wide at the bottom and 30 yards across at the tip.

“A big flock of 2,000 snows is going to be wide when it hits the spread,” he said. “Then we funnel them in tighter as they fly up the rig.”

Wind speed dictates how many decoys Dively uses on a given day.

“If the wind is 15 mph, I want to put out every decoy I have – say 1,500 or so,” he said. “The harder it blows than that, the more I scale back my numbers. You don’t need as many when it’s windy. I’ll shorten up the rig and make it tighter when it’s real windy, too.”

Positioned For the Shot

About 30 yards downwind from the hunters, Dively plants 15 flyers on poles of varying heights from 3 feet to 8 feet high. Those decoys are clustered on the right side of the spread. Then, 8 yards in front of the hunters, on the left side of the spread, Dively places eight to 10 more flyers.

In the snow goose game, perfect shooting means 20 to 25 yards.

“Any closer than that and the shooting gets tough, because guys think they have to have tighter chokes and big shot,” he said. “At 25 yards, you get a nice shot pattern. We’re most successful when we have shooting at 25 yards.”

What the geese are doing when they slide from one set of flyers to the next, Dively said, is heading for the front of the chow line, where they expect to find the best food.

“I think they hit the first flyers, and then they see the others and think there are birds jumping in front of them,” he said. “They don’t like getting beat to the front.”

Midday Loafing

At around 10:30 a.m., Dively changes his rig. “Now I’m expecting birds that are looking for a place to hang out through the midday,” he said. “They’re not as aggressive anymore.”

Dively spreads out his decoys. He doubles the distance between them, instead of being 1 to 2 feet apart. Also, he’ll spread out his flyers throughout the rig and push them down into the dirt, so they’re only about 2 feet off the ground.

“What this setup looks like is a relaxed flock,” he said. “The flyers just look like birds that are jumping up to stretch their wings before landing again. We kill a lot of snows at this time of day with this setup, because most guys just stick with their morning setup. They don’t change it around.”

Afternoon Feeding

Snow goose hunting is best when it is windy. The decoys come alive and the birds fly lower. But guided hunters can’t pick and choose days afield based on the wind. When there is no wind, Dively sets up his standard morning rig, but instead of using the wind to guide the setup, he arranges decoys based on the expected approach. That will be the “downwind” end of the rig. Instead of hiding hunters at the upwind end, they are positioned at the extreme downwind edge.

Although the time varies, snow geese typically leave their daytime roosts and head out to feed again after 2 p.m. This is when you should go back to the morning spread.

“The geese are going to flare when they see there’s no movement, so we set up in a spot where we’ll have a chance, hopefully, to shoot while they’re still looking things over,” he said.

Sound Systems

Electronic callers play a key role in the spring snow goose hunt. Dively runs a pair of two-speaker systems in the downwind end of his spread. Each plays recordings of relaxed snow goose sounds – primarily the signature murmur of a big flock of snows.

At the upwind end of the rig, Dively runs a pair of four-speaker calling systems playing aggressive feeding noises. The hunters lie in wait there, so the goal is to entice incoming, hungry snows to key in on this area.

“E-callers can be really effective on certain days,” he said. “The windier it is, the better they seem to work, because the sound really carries downwind and flocks can hear it from a long way off.”

The ability to control the volume with a remote is important. E-callers blare loudly to distant flocks to get their attention, but should be toned down as birds get closer.

Motorized Motion

This year, for the first time, it appears Pennsylvania hunters will be allowed to use motorized motion decoys during the later part of the snow goose season. The Pennsylvania Game Commission’s board of commissioners was expected to approve them at a January meeting. Hunters have been allowed to employ electronic decoys in Delaware and other states, however, for quite some time.

The only motion decoy Dively uses is a rotary machine, often called a “snow goose tornado.” These machines have two or four flying snow goose decoys attached to long arms that spin in circles. Place the rotary machine as close to hunters as possible.

Try using rotaries real early in the morning, before the sun’s up too high. They’ll fool snow geese then, but once the light’s real good, they can hurt you. It’s not natural for snow geese to just fly around in circles.

Hunters can create more erratic movement in the spread with a flag. To the geese, it looks like a bird jumping up to move to the head of the feed line.

Strategically Big

Successful spring snow goose hunters use incredible numbers of decoys. Go big, but put some thought and strategy into placing your spread.

P.J. Reilly hunts geese and ducks from New Holland, Pa.

6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Which is Right For You?

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When we talk about ammunition for the AR-15, the most likely mentions include .223 Remington, 5.56×45 NATO, and .300 Blackout. Why? Because they are the most popular and readily available rounds available for sporting rifles today. But they are not the only rounds available.

Have you heard of the debate between 6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor? Firearms enthusiasts everywhere can argue for hours about the two rounds and their ideal uses, kinetic energy ratings, and price per round comparisons.

Did you know that in Europe, the 6.5 caliber is immensely popular? Both hunters and target shooters adopted the round over a century ago. Here in North America, we stuck to what we know. That is changing, though. Both of the 6.5 caliber rounds we discuss here are making waves.

The History Behind 6.5 Grendel Vs. 6.5 Creedmoor

6.5 Grendel (Left) 5.56 NATO (Right) 6.5 Grendel next to a standard 5.56mm round

Both the 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor were designed with unique goals in mind. Like most other AR-15 ammunition, though, 6.5 Grendel stems from a desire to replace the iconic .223 Remington, while 6.5 Creedmoor hails from the .308 Winchester round.

6.5 Grendel History

During the Vietnam War, the M-16 and 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge saw extensive military use. That use left a lot to be desired, though. Soldiers in the field reported inaccurate ammunition and regular weapon jams. A better platform and caliber were necessary. Enter the 6.5mm caliber.

Many companies sought to improve upon the .223 Remington and 5.56x45mm rounds. Thus Bill Alexander, the creator of the .50 Beowulf, set out to develop the 6.5 Grendel by modifying a 6.5mm PPC case and succeeded. The 6.5 Grendel is significantly more potent than the original .223 Remington while still running in an AR-15.

The 6.5mm Grendel was first publicly announced in 2003 at a Blackwater Training Facility in North Carolina where it displayed its ability to pack a bigger punch than the 5.56 NATO round – one could consider it as the round that basically became the US version of the 7.62×39.

6.5 Creedmoor History

6.5 Creedmoor (Top) .308 Winchester (Bottom)

On the other hand, 6.5 Creedmoor was developed largely because of the competitive shooting scene. Dave Emary and Dennis DeMille, of Hornady Manufacturing, worked on the cartridge in the early 2000s. Their goal was simple: create a round for high-power rifle competition shooting, specifically with a high ballistic coefficient, that was more shootable than a .308.

The initial design drew inspirations from the .260 Remington, a wildcat cartridge. Again, they saw success. The 6.5 Creedmoor was as accurate as the .308 Winchester but delivered less recoil, had less wind drift and a relatively flat trajectory. In fact, most people in the precision community now consider .308 to be a completely dead round for the sport, with no reason to choose it over the 6.5 Creedmoor.In terms of precision shooting rounds, the 6.5 Creedmoor became one of the most hotly discussed cartridges of the 21st century. Originally introduced in 2007, today, almost every barrel manufacturer in the U.S. has tooled up to accommodate for the hotly demanded barrel chambered in 6.5 CM.

6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Cartridge Sizes

As 6.5 Creedmoor was based on the .308 cartridge, it’s naturally a larger round. The 6.5 Grendel features a rim diameter of .441”, while the 6.5 Creedmoor is .473”. The larger size means the Creedmoor round achieves a higher maximum average pressure, because it has a larger case capacity for more powder.

6.5 Grendel Specs

  • Bullet Diameter: .264”
  • Case Length: 1.52”
  • Maximum Overall Length: 2.26”
  • Rim Diameter: .441”
  • Case Capacity: 35gr H2O
  • Max Pressure: 52,0000 psi

6.5 Creedmoor Specs

  • Bullet Diameter: .264”
  • Case Length: 1.92”
  • Maximum Overall Length: 2.825”
  • Rim Diameter: .473”
  • Case Capacity: 52.5gr H2O
  • Max Pressure: 62,000 psi

6.5 Creedmoor vs 6.5 Grendel Ballistics

6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Which is Right For You?

The sheer size difference between the two rounds means a significant gap in ballistics. That being said, both rounds were built with unique purposes in mind. One was meant to replace .223 Remington, while the other was meant to improve upon .308 Winchester—two distinct rounds with massive differences of their own.

6.5 Grendel Ballistics

  • Muzzle Velocity: 2,580 fps, 1,818 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 100 Yards: +2.2”, 1,581 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 200 Yards: 0”, 1,376 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 300 Yards: -9.2”, 1,189 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 400 Yards: -26.4”, 1,023 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 500 Yards: -52.8”, 876 ft-lb.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

  • Muzzle Velocity: 2,925 fps, 2,280 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 100 Yards: +1.6”, 1,968 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 200 Yards: 0”, 1,693 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 300 Yards: -7.1”, 1,448 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 400 Yards: -20.6”, 1,232 ft-lb.
  • Trajectory – 500 Yards: -41.6”, 1,024 ft-lb.

6.5 Grendel vs 6.5 Creedmoor Applications

As you can see 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor are fantastic rounds that successfully improve upon their respective parent rounds. But like all other rounds, each one has its own optimal application.

Why Choose 6.5 Grendel

In terms of intended applications, the 6.5 Grendel is best if you only expect to be using it in a rifle meant for home defense or any kind of target shooting on a range. It is also a very viable caliber for hunting white tail deer and varmints. If you’re looking for a caliber that’s somewhere in between the 5.56mm NATO and 7.62mm NATO rounds, this is it.

Why Choose 6.5 Creedmoor

To be clear, both calibers are excellent for hunting small game such as feral hogs, whitetail deer, and fallow deer at short- to medium-range distances. However, if you wish to hunt larger game, bigger than a deer, then 6.5 Creedmoor is the better choice. In Europe, hunters will take down moose with 6.5 Swede, which is fairly close to the 6.5CM round. Even in competitive shooting, 6.5 Creedmoor is the clear winner when compared against the 6.5 Grendel for its superior bullet velocity and (less bullet drop) flatter flight path.

Why You Should Use an AR-15 as a Deer Rifle

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Do you hunt with an AR? (Michael Pendley photo)

The AR-15 is one of the most popular rifle platforms of all time. It only stands to reason that its popularity would bleed over into the hunting world. It has, in a big way. According to a recent study by the National Shooting Sports Foundation, 27 percent of hunters surveyed have used a modern sporting rifle (MSR) in pursuit of game. Of those, 48 percent report having used a MSR within the past five years, illustrating a growth in the use of the platform among those hunters surveyed. Of those answering yes to the use of an MSR for hunting, nearly 60 percent state they have used that platform to hunt large game.

It's even fun for the kids. (Michael Pendley photo)That popularity has spawned a number of larger caliber choices for AR-15 rifles. Bullet diameters ranging from 6.5mm all the way up to .450 are now mainstream. Some of the most popular include the .300 Blackout, the .450 Bushmaster, and the 6.5 Grendel. Rifles and ammo for all of these are readily available and they all do a great job on deer-sized game.

But what about the most popular caliber in the platform, the .223/5.56? With their adjustable stocks, light weight, and nearly non-existent recoil, AR-15s in the .223/5.56 caliber make the perfect gun for young or small-frame hunters. But is that caliber a legitimate choice for the deer hunter? Just a few short years ago, I would probably answer that question with a not really. Yea, the .223 would get the job done, particularly on smaller deer in the deep south, but there was just too much margin for error to make it a reliable deer cartridge.

But, all that has changed in recent years. Ammunition manufacturers, noting the increased popularity of AR rifles among hunters, have set about making the .223/5.56 a genuine deer cartridge. To make this happen, they have borrowed proven designs from other big game bullets and added innovative new features specific to the lightweight bullets found in the .223 to form a tough and reliable cartridge tailor made for deer hunting with the modern rifle platform.

Winchester Ammunition

Winchester Ammunition

Winchester’s foray into this market is the 64-grain Power-Max Bonded. According to Mike Stock, the center-fire product manager for Winchester, he loves the round.

Our .223 Remington 64-grain Power-Max Bonded really was created purely as a deer hunting bullet, Stock said. What makes a good deer bullet in .223 is very different than what makes a good deer bullet in larger calibers. In heavier bullets, I will always recommend a deer bullet to rapidly fragment which means a tapered jacket that is thin at the nose. However, in .223, we often max out at about 64 grains to achieve good accuracy in 1:12 bolt rifles so we have to put that weight to good use in order to get the penetration we need for deer. That means relatively thick jackets all the way to the nose and in the case of Power-Max Bonded, a protected point also helps with the delayed expansion. This all goes together for an accurate, controlled expansion bullet that can penetrate more than enough for use on deer.

Since 2005, Federal Ammunition has offered a bonded .223 bullet in their proven Fusion line as their go-to for medium game. That changed in 2015 with the introduction of their new Trophy Bonded Tip to their Premium Vital Shock line of hunting ammunition.

MODEL R-15 PREDATOR RIFLE

Federal’s J.J Reich says, The new Trophy Bonded Tip is based on our time-tested Trophy Bonded Bear Claw design. For decades, the Vital-Shock Trophy Bonded Tip has proven itself as one of the most effective cartridges available in many popular calibers. New in 2015, the .223 Rem is the newest caliber in the lineup. The bonded bullet retains more than 90 percent of its weight, penetrates deep, and shoots flat and accurately thanks to its high-ballistic coefficient. Polymer Tip, Long Boat Tail and Skiving all help that performance. The solid copper shank crushes bone, and exterior skiving on the nickel-plated bullet ensures optimum expansion at any range.

Both of these bullets have proven themselves numerous times in the field on white-tailed deer. These new premium bullets have changed how we look at the .223/5.56 as a deer hunting caliber. While shots should still be limited to ranges maxing out at around 100 yards (the small bullet just sheds too much energy beyond that range), hunters can now feel confident in taking their rifles afield during deer season.

Bonus reads: The Great Debate: Firearms Seasons During the Rut | 18 Great Gun Hunting States for Deer Hunters

Click here for more deer hunting articles and videos.

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