The winter of 2017 has seen some pretty drastic temperature swings across North America. In fact, within the last 30 days we’ve seen air temperatures of 70 degrees at BWI airport in Baltimore, Maryland and 7 degrees just south of Birmingham, Alabama. When it’s warm out and water is available, deer get by no problem. However, what happens when the temperature drops and surface water begins to freeze? How do deer satisfy their basic daily requirement for water? Recently, I answered this question for an avid QDMA member in the #AskQDMA video shown above.

Deer get water from three major sources:

1. Free water: These are natural bodies of water from puddles, streams, seeps, springs, lakes or ponds, as well as cattle troughs and other man-made catchments. Basically, liquid water you can see and touch.
2. Preformed water: This is water found in food that deer eat. Its availability varies depending on the time of year and what vegetation is available. During spring and early summer the majority of a deer’s diet is comprised of forbs and other herbaceous material, which tend to be very succulent (high water content). When those types of plants disappear, what is left are plants that generally have less water in them – such as older leaves, needles, buds and twigs on woody shrubs and saplings.
3. Metabolic water: This is water that is released from food during the digestion process as a result of oxidizing carbs, fats and protein found in plants.

It’s important to note that the reasons deer need water actually fluctuates throughout the year as well. Water consumption helps control some basic, year-round things for deer such as daily metabolic function, waste excretion, and transporting nutrients and minerals throughout the body. But there are other seasonal or age-related influences too, including gestation, lactation, thermoregulation(keeping ‘em cool in summer and warm in winter) and growth, for younger deer. Taking that into consideration, it’s safe to say deer need water most in spring and summer when biological and seasonal conditions warrant it. Luckily, this time of necessity coincides perfectly with a period when preferred foods are available and full of water.

Even when free water is abundant in any form, deer still satisfy most of their needs through preformed water, which is water in their food.

Deer will obviously stop, bend down like Bambi and drink free water any time its available. Or, they may eat snow in winter, too. However, even when free water is abundant in any form, they still satisfy most of their needs through preformed water. This is especially true in places with adequate precipitation, which is much of their natural range in North America.

When free water is scarce, such as in a severe drought or the extreme Southwest, deer are obviously forced to get almost all of their daily water requirements from the other two categories. As you probably noticed, each are directly related to diet. What’s interesting, though, is as their foods diminish in water content, the more they need water, just like you or I would need a big gulp of water after eating nothing but dry food for days on end. Thus, it’s a catch-22. The drier the food, the more they need water; but, during a drought there isn’t any or it occurs ata time when foods are low in water anyway. That’s why drought years impact deer productivity so much that you see drastic fluctuations in population and even antler size in arid regions, like south Texas. The lack of water limits their ability to thrive and grow.

What about in the extreme North? When all the free water is frozen, isn’t that just as tough as southern drought conditions? Not so much. It sure would take a lot of snow consumption to equal 8 ounces of water. But, because their overall water needs are reduced this time of year, and because deer get most of their water from foods they eat anyway, northern deer satisfy most of their winter water requirements by eating green needles within reach on coniferous trees, like hemlock and white cedar, the last year’s growth of buds and branches on numerous deciduous saplings and shrubs, live bark off both, and even acorns and other hard mast that they can find under the snow. During winter, northern deer also have the unique ability to recycle their urine and dry their feces internally to conserve water as well. Pretty neat.

So, the next time you see a news clip of a deer stuck on the ice and hear the anchor mention the deer must’ve been looking for water – just yell “hogwash” at the screen! He or she must have water on the brain.

When it comes to conserving wetlands and other waterfowl habitats, Ducks Unlimited’s greatest strength has always been its members and volunteers. DU supporters number more than 1 million strong across North America, and their dedication and support are critical to the success of the organization’s conservation programs.

DU’s ranks also are filled with the world’s most experienced and dedicated waterfowlers, people who collectively possess an immense storehouse of practical hunting know-how. Here are some of the editors’ favorite waterfowling tips that have been submitted by DU members from across the nation.

1. Camo Cord

Nothing beats natural vegetation for concealment in duck hunting. To hold natural camouflage materials on my duck boat, I use stretch cord that I purchased at a kayak supply store. Line the sides, bow, and stern of the boat with sections of cord spaced about a foot apart and secure them in place with four-penny nails, screws, or pop rivets. Next, weave vegetation such as cattails, bulrushes, or cornstalks between the cords to conceal the outline of the boat. If woven carefully, this material will remain in place throughout the season. Turner Wilder, Grantham, New Hampshire

2. Fighting Ice

Creating open water holes in frozen marshes and lakes is a very effective late season hunting tactic. If possible, break ice into large solid sheets that can be neatly pushed under the surrounding ice to create a clear, open hole. Many times, however, the ice is too thin to break up into solid chunks and shatters into numerous smaller pieces that cover the surface of the water. This not only looks unnatural to the birds, but the floating ice also quickly freezes together again. An easy solution is to bring along a large landing net. After breaking the ice, sweep the water’s surface with the net until you’ve picked up all the floating pieces.

If the ice is too thick to easily break into sheets, try something else. Using a heavy axe or maul, break open a 3’x 3′ hole. Standing in the hole, stir up the bottom sediments with your boots and kick muddy water onto the surrounding ice, creating the appearance of open water. Place shell or silhouette decoys on the skim of muddy water covering the ice to complete the illusion. On bitter cold days, you may have to kick new water onto the ice periodically throughout the hunt, but it’s well worth the effort. My hunting partners and I have taken quite a few mallards and black ducks this way over the years.Andrew J. Rzicznek, Medina, Ohio

3. Stay Late

Waterfowl frequently migrate with or slightly behind cold fronts to take advantage of strong tail winds. On good migration days, don’t leave the blind early. The best hunting often occurs late in the morning, when many migrating flocks stop to take a rest. Mike Checkett, Memphis, Tennessee

4. Crossing Over

Although most waterfowlers hunt with the wind at their backs and their decoys set in front of them, this setup has many disadvantages. First, as ducks approach the decoys, they are looking directly into the blind, making it much more likely that the birds will detect movement by hunters and dogs. Another disadvantage occurs while shooting. After the first shot, ducks quickly flair downwind from you, making follow-up shots more difficult and increasing the chances of crippling birds.

As an alternative, I like to position my spread so that ducks will decoy at a crossing angle to my blind. This makes my blind much less conspicuous to decoying ducks, and the birds are forced to cross in front of my blind again as they flair downwind from shooting. In many cases, my second and third shots are just as close, if not closer, than my first, and crippled birds will fall well within range for a quick follow-up finishing shot.Scott Dennis, Meraux, Louisiana

5. Easy Read

Many waterfowlers carry both duck and goose loads with them to the blind. After repeated handling, however, the printing on plastic cartridges can wear off or become illegible, making it impossible to tell which shot size is in the shells. To avoid confusion, I take a black magic marker and write the shot size or letters on the end of the brass casings on all my shells. This enables me to quickly identify and select duck or goose loads while they are in the shell loops of my hunting vest. Brian Garrels, Emmetsburg, Iowa

6. Clean Call

Without periodic cleaning, all sorts of particlesincluding food, tobacco, dirt, and dead vegetationcan accumulate inside your duck call. Follow these easy steps to keep plastic and acrylic calls clean and in good working order:

1. Gently remove the stopper (holding the reed assembly) from the barrel of your call.

2. Place both the stopper and barrel in a bowl or coffee cup and soak for half an hour in a combination of water and mild soap.

3. Remove them from the solution and rinse well under the tap.

4. Set them aside to dry.

5. Using dental floss or a dollar bill, gently clear any stubborn particles that may remain between the reeds.

6. Reassemble your call.Eli Haydel, Natchidoches, Louisiana

7. Calm Approach

Nothing spooks late-season ducks more than stationary decoys sitting in an open hole. On calm days I throw most of my decoys back in thick brushy cover and rely on calling to bring in the ducks. Circling birds only catch brief glimpses of my decoys while they’re working, and, by the time they get close enough to get a good look, it’s too late. Boggs McGee, Honey Island, Mississippi

8. Patience Pays

A common mistake made by many waterfowlers is to flush large numbers of ducks off a roost in the dark before dawn. If left alone, these birds will often fly out to feed at first light and then filter back to the roost later in the morning. Rather than spooking the birds in the dark, wait until sunrise or later before going in and setting up. Although you might miss out on some early shooting, you may have a better hunt overall as the birds will provide more shooting opportunities as they return in smaller groups throughout the morning. Dave Mepps, Billings, Montana

9. Wind Check

Knowing the precise wind direction is critical to correctly position decoys and blinds in fields for geese. However, this can be difficult on mornings with a light breeze. To determine the wind direction on nearly calm mornings, take along a small squeeze bottle filled with talcum powder. Before setting your decoys, simply squeeze the bottle a few times and watch what direction the powder drifts. This will clearly show the direction from which the breeze is blowing. Rock Kuhn, Northfield, Minnesota

10. Line Guide

Very few decoy manufacturers have successfully addressed the issue of adjusting decoy line for variable water depths. I solved this problem by attaching a metal shower curtain ring on the keels of my decoys. Alternatively, large fishing swivels can be used for the same purpose. When you set your decoys, simply unwrap line off the keel to the desired depth, open the curtain ring, place the line inside the ring, and snap it shut. This will prevent any more line than is necessary from coming off the keel. Lance Crawford, Delano, Texas

11. Painting Pointers

It’s always a good idea to use a stencil for painting camouflage patterns on boats and blinds. I make my stencils out of dry-erase poster boardavailable at most arts and crafts stores. First, I place pieces of natural cover, such as leaves, tree branches, and cattails, on the poster board and trace around them with a fine magic marker. Then, I cut out the outlines that I made on the poster board to create a stencil.

When you are ready to paint, simply hold the poster board up against the surface of your boat or blind and spray paint over the holes. By overlapping different shapes and using different colors, you can create a highly realistic custom camouflage pattern that will match virtually any type of vegetation and background. Doug Barnes, Germantown, Tennessee

12. Nordic Track

For older hunters such as myself, a pair of old-fashioned cross-country ski poles is a great way to keep your balance while wading and setting out and picking up decoys in the marsh. The six-inch diameter baskets at the base of the poles provide you with excellent stability and prevent the poles from sinking into the mud. Loops on the handles keep them secured firmly to your wrists, freeing your hands for working with decoys and completing other tasks.

The poles also will extend your reach to retrieve downed birds and pick up errant decoys in deeper waters. You can even use them as supports to hold up camo netting and natural vegetation as a makeshift blind. Used cross-country ski poles can often be found at an affordable price at garage sales.Warren R. Lindstedt, Portland, Oregon

13. Key Caddy

Keeping up with different sets of keys while duck hunting is a perennial challenge for waterfowlers. To simplify matters, I put all my keysfor my boat, truck, ATV, and hunting cabinon a floating foam key ring purchased at a boating supply store. This not only keeps all my keys together in one place, it also makes them much easier to recover if I drop them in the water or on the ground in the dark. Michael Simmons, Jackson, Mississippi

14. Gun Wrap

Waterfowlers can almost completely vanish in fields and marshes covered with snow by wearing a white jacket, coat, gloves, and ski mask. However, it’s equally important for waterfowlers to camouflage their shotguns while hunting in these conditions. Against a white background, shotguns become even more visible to ducks and geese, especially on sunny days. A cheap and inexpensive way for waterfowlers to conceal their shotguns in the snow is to wrap them in white medical gauze.

Secure the gauze to the end of your gun barrel with clear packing tape. Next start wrapping the gauze around the barrel, overlapping about half way each time. If you have an autoloader, continue wrapping over the forearm down to the receiver. Then cut off the gauze and secure it to the base of the forearm with more clear tape. Cover the stock in the same manner by starting at the pistol grip and wrapping to the recoil pad. This way, the only exposed area of the shotgun will be the receiver. James Campbell, Canton, Illinois

15. Tied Down

Putting up wood duck boxes is a great way to boost local waterfowl populations. However, nailing nest boxes to trees can be a hassle. An easier alternative is to tie wood duck boxes onto trees using plastic-coated laundry line. Simply drill a few extra holes in the back of the box and thread the line through. The line won’t damage trees like nails or screws, and it’s much easier to remove and relocate boxes that are unsuccessful. One word of caution, however: Always check the integrity of the line when you empty existing boxes in late fall or winter to ensure the line remains sturdy enough to hold hens and their broods. Fran Gough, Lehighton, Pennsylvania

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As a gun enthusiast, you might find yourself constantly looking for ways to improve the performance of your favorite firearm. Whether it’s accuracy, speed, or reliability, there are several ways to make your gun more efficient. In this article, we will discuss a few ways to improve the performance of your favorite gun.

Upgrade Your Gun’s Barrel

One of the most important components of a firearm is the barrel. It’s the part of the gun that the bullet travels through, and it’s responsible for accuracy and range. Upgrading your gun’s barrel can significantly improve its performance. There are several types of barrels on the market, such as stainless steel, carbon fiber, and chrome-lined. Stainless steel barrels are a popular choice because they are corrosion-resistant and durable. Carbon fiber barrels are lightweight and offer excellent accuracy, while chrome-lined barrels are known for their longevity. Whichever type of barrel you choose, make sure to do your research and find one that is compatible with your firearm.

In addition to upgrading your barrel, you can also consider adding a muzzle brake or compensator to your gun. These devices help reduce recoil, allowing you to shoot more accurately and quickly. A muzzle brake works by redirecting the gases that are expelled when you fire your gun, while a compensator reduces the amount of upward force that the gun produces.

Clean Your Gun Regularly

Regular cleaning and maintenance are essential to the longevity and performance of your firearm. A dirty gun can cause malfunctions, misfires, and accuracy issues. It’s important to clean your gun after every use and to inspect it regularly for any signs of wear and tear.

When cleaning your gun, make sure to use the right tools and materials. Use a cleaning solvent to remove any dirt, debris, or residue from the barrel and other parts of the gun. Use a bore brush to scrub the inside of the barrel, and use a cleaning rod to push a patch through the barrel to remove any remaining debris. Finish by lubricating the gun with oil or grease to prevent rust and wear.

Upgrade Your Gun’s Trigger

The trigger is the part of the gun that you pull to fire the bullet. A good trigger can significantly improve the accuracy and speed of your firearm. There are several types of triggers on the market, such as single-stage, two-stage, and adjustable. Single-stage triggers are the most common type and are found on most firearms. They have a consistent pull weight and break when you reach the end of the trigger’s travel. Two-stage triggers have a longer travel and a lighter first stage, followed by a heavier second stage. Adjustable triggers allow you to customize the pull weight and travel to your liking.

Consider Upgrading Your Gun’s Chassis

Another component to consider when upgrading your firearm is the chassis. The chassis is the frame that holds the gun’s action and components, such as the trigger and magazine. Upgrading your gun’s chassis can improve its accuracy, stability, and durability. One popular option is an XLR chassis, a modular chassis system, which allows you to customize your gun’s components and accessories to your liking. These systems are often made from lightweight materials, such as aluminum or carbon fiber, and can be adjusted for the length of pull and cheek weld. Upgrading your gun’s chassis can also make it easier to mount optics or other accessories, such as bipods or slings. A good chassis can improve your gun’s balance, making it easier to handle and shoot accurately. When considering a chassis upgrade, make sure to research different options and find one that is compatible with your firearm and shooting style.

Upgrade Your Gun’s Sights

Having accurate sights on your firearm is crucial for hitting your targets with precision. Upgrading your gun’s sights can make a significant difference in your shooting performance. There are various types of sights available, including iron sights, red dot sights, holographic sights, and scopes. Iron sights are the most common type and are found on many firearms. Red dot sights are becoming increasingly popular, especially in the tactical and competitive shooting community. They offer a quick target acquisition and are useful in low-light conditions. Holographic sights are similar to red dot sights but provide a more extensive field of view and are less prone to parallax errors. Scopes are an excellent option for long-range shooting and provide magnification and range-finding capabilities. Upgrading your gun’s sights can help you shoot more accurately and efficiently.

Consider Ammunition Selection

The type of ammunition you use can also affect your gun’s performance. Different types of ammunition can impact factors such as accuracy, recoil, and velocity. When choosing ammunition, consider your gun’s barrel length, twist rate, and intended use. For example, if you are shooting at a longer range, you may want to consider using ammunition with a heavier bullet and higher velocity. If you are shooting for self-defense, you may want to consider using hollow-point ammunition, which can expand on impact and cause greater damage to your target. Additionally, you should choose ammunition that is compatible with your firearm and recommended by the manufacturer.

Practice Proper Shooting Techniques

Lastly, improving your performance with your favorite firearm requires regular practice and proper shooting techniques. Shooting accurately and quickly is a skill that takes time and practice to develop. Proper shooting techniques, such as proper grip, stance, and trigger control, can help you shoot more accurately and consistently. Additionally, regular practice at the range or in a controlled environment can help you identify areas where you need improvement and work to correct them. By practicing regularly and using proper techniques, you can become more proficient with your firearm and improve your overall shooting performance.

There are several ways to improve the performance of your favorite firearm, whether it’s accuracy, speed, or reliability that you’re looking to enhance. Upgrading components such as the barrel, trigger, chassis, sights, and ammunition selection can make a significant difference in your shooting performance. Regular cleaning and maintenance, as well as practicing proper shooting techniques, are also crucial for improving your skills and maximizing your gun’s potential. By investing time and effort into upgrading and maintaining your firearm, you can enhance its performance and get the most out of your shooting experience. Remember to always prioritize safety and follow proper handling procedures when working with firearms.

Outdoor enthusiasts often encourage people to “forget the forecast.” It’s a clever way of saying to enjoy the outdoors regardless of the weather. With so many variables at play, waiting for the right conditions would keep many people inside. But does the same logic apply when it comes to bowhunting? That depends. Weather should always be top of mind for bowhunters. It affects animal movement, personal safety and meat spoilage times.

Deciding whether to hunt or not in certain weather is mostly personal preference. However, certain conditions require greater preparation, and at times, a decision to stay inside can be for the best. This preparation is important enough to note that the National Bowhunter Education Foundation has an entire section dedicated to preparing for weather conditions in its bowhunter education curriculum.

Bowhunting in the rain can dramatically change your day in both good and bad ways. Here’s a look at the pros and cons of bowhunting in rainy conditions.

Pros:

Quiet Conditions

My 2021 elk season started out frustrating. Hot, dry conditions made it sound as if I were smashing a bag full of chips with every step on the forest floor. The crunchy ground made it impossible to do anything but sit patiently and hope an elk walked by. But then it rained. Wet weather changed everything. The rain drenched the grass, leaves and pine needles, making it possible to sneak silently through the forest. The morning after the wet weather moved in, I snuck up on two bulls fighting in the trees, an encounter that would have been impossible the previous day.

Concealed Movement

Rain helps conceal movement because it creates movement. As raindrops fall, they move branches and leaves, which can be just enough to mask your movements, including drawing your bow.

Scent Killer

The smell of fresh rain is so powerful that you’ll find it replicated in scented candles and home air fresheners. But rain isn’t just an odor; it’s an odor-killer. Rain helps mask human scent. It can wash away scent trails and make it more difficult for deer to detect human presence.

Changing Wildlife Movement

Bowhunters targeting ungulates like elk and deer typically expect the majority of animal movement to occur during the early morning hours and just before dark. That’s when animals are most active feeding and moving. However, weather patterns can change traditional movement. Light rain doesn’t typically cause animals to run for cover. Heavy rains will usually make wildlife hunker down. However, after a downpour, many animals will be up and moving, looking for food. And I’ve had some incredible rainy days in the field when the animals seemed to be moving all day long.

Less Human Pressure

Remember the advice, “forget the forecast”? Well, not everybody listens. Rainy days keep a lot of hunters home. If you’re not afraid of getting a little wet, you might find yourself alone in the field.

Cons:

Added Gear Requirements

Hunting in wet weather requires the right gear. You’ll need a waterproof jacket, pants and boots. Good rain gear can get expensive, and many materials are pretty noisy. But sitting or hiking in wet weather isn’t very fun either. Getting wet isn’t only uncomfortable; it can be dangerous. Hypothermia can happen in cold conditions, like downpours. And even if the situation isn’t dangerous, shivering can give away your position or make it impossible to hold your bow steady.

Dangerous Lightning

There’s a big difference between bowhunting in a rainstorm versus a thunderstorm. Lightning is dangerous, and you don’t want to risk getting caught in the field in it, especially in a treestand. When the forecast is calling for lightning, you should probably stay home. If you find yourself caught in an unexpected thunderstorm, leave the field as soon as possible if you can. Get out of the treestand immediately. Get away from any other metal. Avoid tall objects and fence lines.

Washed-Out Blood Trails

Rain hides human scent, but it also washes away blood trails. Often blood trails play a crucial role in the recovery of downed game. If you plan to hunt in the rain, it might be a good idea to have a blood-tracking dogon standby in case you take a shot — if using one is legal in your state.

Conclusion

Whether you bowhunt in the rain is up to you, but there are always some important considerations. Check the forecast every day and look into the specifics. A drizzle is different from a downpour, and you’ll want to stay home if lightning is expected. Bring the right layers. Pack extra clothing in the truck for a quick change at the end of the day in case you get wet. Make sure you have flagging tape in your pack. Rain will wash away a blood trail fast, but flagging tape will stay.

Bowhunting in the rain can provide a lot of opportunities. If you can handle a little wet weather, you might be rewarded with a day you won’t forget.

When it comes to bass fishing, it’s all about the sport of it. As you almost certainly know, bass anglers are out for a brain-bending hunt for big bass and what they want to eat, an unforgettable fight, and a stellar photo at the end of it.

However, before any bass angler starts to resuscitate their catch and watch it swim back off to fight another day, there’s one important detail that has to be gauged for any of it to mean anything: The size.

Any good fisherman will take plenty of pleasure in simply enjoying a nice fight and lipping a fish, but there’s something about the thrill of reeling in a massive bass after it has jumped all over the surface and put your equipment through the wringer.

Today, we’re going to talk about the top 15 largemouth bass ever caught; including where, when, and how they were caught. Using this information, and of course, building your own skills and intuition as an angler might just help you land the next record-shattering largemouth when you hit the water.

Buckle up, and let the history lesson begin.

1 – Current World Record – Lake Biwa, Japan

First up is the current world record. This impressive 22.311-lb bass was at Lake Biwa in Japan. This is the largest recorded largemouth bass ever caught, and what makes the catch even more impressive is the low number of largemouth in Japan. This is because they were introduced specifically for sport fishing. After a short time, they were labeled an invasive species, and they’re only found in a few select lakes that have now had their native ecosystems ravaged by the predators.

The angler that pulled this bad boy in is Manabu Kurita. He pulled the lunker in with a Deps Slide Swimmer 175 in 2009 at the age of 32. He has since tied his own record in 2022.

2 – Second Place – Lake Montgomery, Georgia

This one goes way back to 1932 when an angler by the name of George Perry caught a 22.25-lb largemouth at Lake Montgomery in Georgia. What makes this record so special isn’t that it’s a world record. Those are beaten by mere ounces across the fishing community all the time. No, this is special because it was the world record for largemouth bass from 1932 all the way until 2009 when Manabu Kurita nabbed the current world record at Lake Biwa. A little over two decades more, and he would have had a century-long world record. More importantly, this was from before sport fishing was big. It was a way to secure food, and anglers weren’t using the most advanced techniques and equipment back then.

Perry caught the monster on a Creek Chub Fintail Shiner; the only lure he and his friend had at the time of the catch.

3 – Third Place – Castaic Lake, California

This is the third-place record as of this writing, and it was made at Castaic Lake in California on March 12, 1991 by Robert Crupi. This whopper weighed 22.063 pounds, and it was just slightly shy of beating the 1932 record George Perry is famous for. Unlike the other records, Crupi didn’t use lures for this impressive catch. It was just good old-fashioned live bait on a basic float rig.

Being in the top three without using a fancy lure is a huge accomplishment, and you’ll be happy to know that Robert Crupi is still angling in the L.A. area now that he has retired as an LAPD officer.

4 – Castaic Lake, California – Michael Arujo

Another impressive catch was made at Castaic Lake in 1991; just seven days before Robert Crupi broke the 22-lb mark, Michael Arujo had caught a lunker weighing 21.75 pounds. That wasn’t quite close enough to George Perry’s long-standing record, but it was a massive breakthrough for the lake, and it is the fourth largest bass ever caught and officially recorded.

Arujo made the catch of his life with two different bummers attached to it. He was just shy of the world record, and a week after getting lauded for the second largest bass in the world, Robert Crupi came in and knocked him down to third place in the same watering hole. It’s a great catch, but you know that one had to sting a bit.

5 – Lake Dixon, California – Jed Dickerson

This 21.688-lb lunker was, like over half of this list, also caught in the Los Angeles area of California. A trend you’ll be noticing pretty quickly with the world record list.

While the bass is just shy of the 22-lb mark, it stood out for its unique spotted pattern and acquired the nickname “Dottie”. Dottie was caught in 2003.

6 – Lake Casitas, California – Raymond Easley

Raymond Easley’s 21.2-lb largemouth turned heads in 1980 as the first bass to breach the 20-lb range since George Perry’s legendary catch. While Easley’s catch isn’t the thing of legend, it is still a record holder. It’s the largest largemouth bass caught on an 8-lb line as of the time of this writing. It’s also worth noting that he wasn’t bass fishing at the time. He was teaching less experienced friends how to catch crawfish, and he happened to get lucky.

7 – Castaic Lake, California – Robert Crupi

Yes, the third-place world record holder is actually known for multiple catches. Just a year before he came close to dethroning George Perry’s age-old record, Robert Crupi caught a 21.1-lb largemouth bass at Castaic Lake, California; not far from where he’d later catch the 22 pounder he’s known for. Again, he’s one of the few world-record anglers to use live bait for their catches, and he’s one of the few with two records to his name.

8 – Miramar Reservoir, California – Dave Zimmerlee

Dave Zimmerlee caught a 20.938-lb largemouth at the Miramar Reservoir in California in 1973. This was not quite as close as Crupi’s catch in 91, but it was the first catch to get somewhat close in 40 years. Not only that, but it was the California state record and held its position for a fair amount of time.

9 – Castaic Lake, California – Leo Torres

Yet another Castaic Lake record, this catch by Leo Torres happened shortly before Crupi’s first 21-lb catch. Unfortunately, it wouldn’t last long as it was still in the 20-lb range at 20.86 pounds. Still, it was the catch of a lifetime shared by few anglers, and it’s yet another testament to the high catch potential of Castaic Lake.

10 – Lake Dixon, California – Mike Long

This 2001 catch was made at Lake Dixon, California by Mike Long. The catch was 20.75 pounds; just mere ounces behind the area’s top records, and it’s one of the top records at Dixon’s watering hole.

11 – Lake Hodges, California – Gene Dupras

This is Lake Hodges first appearance on this list, and it happens to be its largemouth bass record. Gene Dupras boated a 20.25-lb largemouth in 1985 on artificial lures and put the watering hole’s name on the map. While this is on the lower end of the 20’s, it’s still an important catch in the bass fishing world.

12 – Miramar Reservoir, California – Johnny Garduno

This 20.25-lb catch by Johnny Garduno in 1990 is tied with the number 11 spot placed by Gene Dupras, but it doesn’t hold the reservoir record as that was accomplished in 1973 with a 20.983-lb largemouth. Still it is the catch of a lifetime for the angler, and it’s just ounces off of the watering hole’s record; proving big bass aren’t just a fluke at Miramar.

13 – Big Fish Lake, Florida – Fritz Friebel

Florida is known for some good bass fishing, along with some unique species of bass besides largemouth. So, while this is the one and only largemouth record from Florida on our top 15 list, it’s worth noting that the state pops up frequently with longer, more lenient lists.

This one was caught by Fritz Friebel in 1923, and at 20.123 pounds, it held the world record until George Perry set his nearly 80-year-long record.

Again, keep in mind that sport fishing wasn’t really a thing back then, and neither George Perry or Fritz Friebel would be considered professionals nowadays. They were just good old boys enjoying a bit of fishing. That’s an important detail for later.

14 – Lake Mission Viejo, California – George Coniglio

This 2006 record isn’t the biggest in the world, country, state of California, or even Los Angeles county, but it is the Lake Mission Viejo record at 19.7 pounds. George Coniglio still holds the lake record, and there’s no denying that, even compared to the 20+ pound fish on this list, no angler would brush off a 19-pound hog.

15 – Castaic Lake, California – Mark Balloid

What’s a better way to finish our list off than to return to yet another 1990 beast from Castaic Lake? On March 30, 1990, just shortly after Robert Crupi’s first record fish, Mark Balloid caught a 19.5-lb lunker that, while still a bit smaller than Crupi’s catches at the lake, was a massive accomplishment.

How to Use This Information

Now, besides learning about some amazing largemouth, what good is this list for you, the average fisherman? Well, as it turns out, there’s quite a bit you can learn from it.

Here are the points we believe stand out the most.

It’s Not Restricted to Gatekeeping Pros

Did you notice that two of the earliest world-record catches, and several of the more modern catches, weren’t made by professionals on $40,000 bass boats with $700+ rods? Nope. They were caught by regular fishermen who, sometimes, weren’t even trying to catch record-breaking bass.

The point to understand the most from this is that the record holders involved knew how to react to the hard fights those 19 to 22-lb fish were putting them through, and even with the 1920s and 30’s equipment, they were able to work those basses back to their boats. George Perry, the man with the longest-lasting world record, and who is still in second place globally, caught his lunker in a homemade boat with the only lure he had on him. He stated that he wasn’t worried about losing the fish, but he didn’t want to lose his Creek Chub.

You don’t need a second mortgage and a very angry wife to pick up the big fish. You just have to know what you’re doing when they bite.

Water Counts

What makes the current record so impressive isn’t just that it broke George Perry’s almost century-old record. It’s that it happened in Japan where largemouth isn’t even native.

If you noticed, up until that point, the entire top 15 list is comprised almost entirely of Californian lakes and reservoirs, and a couple of names pop up several times to dominate the list. Notably, Castaic Lake shows up a lot.

If you want to catch big bass, you can do that anywhere there is bass. Kurita proved that by shattering George Perry’s long-standing record. However, your chances are quite a bit higher if you find the waters known for producing such abnormal bass specimens.

Unfortunately, that same concept can lead to higher pressure from other fishermen. Everyone wants the world record with sport fishing, and you won’t be the only one running to a well-known watering hole.

Pressure Increases, and Catches Go Down

If you notice, the predominant body of water on this list has basically all of its notable entrees set in the early 90’s. Not a single Castaic Lake record of real notability has cropped up since.

That doesn’t mean big fish aren’t found there, but it given its history of producing jaw-dropping trophy bass and the drop off, it’s safe to assume that “something” has put a damper on what the lake is producing.

That damper is typically waves of fishermen, both responsible and irresponsible, attempting to get in on the trophy-sized action.

This increases pressure and makes fish more finicky, and if the water is being overfished or the fish aren’t being released properly, numbers can drop; effectively ruining what the hole was known for.

Keep that in mind, and don’t always hunt your next trophy at a certain hole just because it’s famous.

Know – Adapt – Catch® more with BassForecast.

Learn More How BassForecast Works

Last Updated on April 25, 2024

When I speak of my experience with squirrel hunting, I frequently receive strange looks from hunters who aren’t used to this particular type of small game.

However, squirrel hunting is pretty popular across the southeastern USA and other regions.

Good squirrel hunting dogs are essential for squirrel hunting, and while any dog can act as a squirrel dog, some dog breeds are born for this job.

History: What kind of dog is a Squirrel dog?

This is a dog breed trained to hunt squirrels scenting, tracking, and treeing them. While many household pets instinctively chase squirrels, they’re not trained to hunt them.

Even untrained canines chase after small animals with passion, which makes many people think that dogs hate squirrels. They’re just merely acting on their instincts to hunt.

Some breeds don’t have a strong prey drive, especially if they grew up with cats or other pets. Dogs and squirrels can even be friends! Just take a look at this video:

This is rare because most dogs chase squirrels without hesitation. This trait is handy in places where wild game and big game are hunted for food like venison and rabbit.

Did you know that squirrels have been a part of our diet for a long time? They say squirrel meat isn’t only sustainable, but it’s also tasty and healthy.

What is the best breed of dog for Squirrel hunting?

I am a subscriber of the theory that any dog can be trained to hunt, but some have better hunting instincts, so they’re easier to train.

The supreme squirrel dog breeds are Terriers, including those breeds with a bit of Terrier in their bloodlines, such as curs and feists.

Some people consider them mutts but these dogs are usually standardized and are bred for hunting bushytails for generations.

Good squirrel dogs are intelligent and have a strong prey drive, but they also need a great nose to be able to “wind” squirrels, meaning to detect squirrels by scent, through air currents.

Once the dog catches the squirrel, visually or by scent, it has to be able to follow it by sound.

They also need stamina and agility to keep up with their prey, the ability to tree the squirrel, and the willingness to stay treed until the hunter arrives.

1. Airedale Terrier

The Airedale Terrier, also known as Waterside Terrier and Bingley Terrier, is a dog breed from England with distinguished hunting instincts, and it’s one the largest terriers.

The colossal size, along with intelligence and treeing ability, makes this dog the “King of Terriers” and an excellent squirrel dog.

2. American Blue Gascon Hound

The Grand Bleu de Gascogne or Big Blu is a loyal, protective breed known as a passionate hunter for raccoons and squirrels. Its loud baying and treeing ability separate him from other squirrel dogs.

3. Black and Tan Coonhound

Derived from a foxhound and a bloodhound, this breed is well-known for its long ears and black and tan coat.

The Black and Tan Coonhounds are talented for many things, including tracking and treeing small and big game species.

4. Finnish Spitz

Known by many names, such as Finsk Spets, Lulou Finnoi, and Suomenpystykorva, this dog breed looks similar to foxes with its long and fluffy reddish coat.

The Finish Spitz is famous for its vocal ability and hunting prowess, including big and small animals alike.

5. Fox Terrier

Fox Terriers come in two variations, with the only difference being the type of coat – these are Wire Fox Terrier and Smooth Fox Terrier.

These smart dogs are mostly known for hunting foxes even though they excel at squirrel hunting too.

6. Mountain Cur

Also referred to as Original Mountain Cur, this breed arrived in America from Europe, and it is one of the most adaptable hunting breeds.

They were bred explicitly for treeing and hunting small game, but they are often used for baying big animals and as water dogs.

7. Norwegian Elkhound

The Norweigan Elkhound, which is the National Dog of Norway and rarely found in the USA, is also called Norsk Elghund Gra and Norsk Elghund Sort.

It is a Spitz type of breed known for hunting, herding, and protecting people and property.

8. Rat Terrier

The Rat Terrier is an American small dog breed used predominantly for hunting rodents like rats and squirrels.

They are infamous farm dogs, which is why they are considered a rare breed today with the diminishment of family farms.

9. Treeing Cur

These medium-sized size dogs have no restrictions regarding colors and markings, making it easier for breeders to focus on their hunting prowess.

Treeing Curs are fast, intelligent, and agile, and their treeing ability makes them quintessential for squirrel hunting.

10. West Siberian Laika

The West Siberian Laika is also known as Zapadno-Sibirskaia Laika and WSL, and it is a dog that looks a lot like a Husky and has a bit of wolf in the bloodline.

They are bark pointers, which is precisely the trait that squirrel dogs need to possess. These dogs are great hunters, but they can also be aggressive towards other pets and strangers.

11. Beagle

Beagles are remarkable companions and family pets that also possess exceptional scenting ability since they were bred as scenthounds for tracking small game, like rabbits, hare, and squirrels.

12. Jack Russell Terrier

Originally developed to hunt foxes, this small English breed is also known as the Parson Russell Terrier. They have considerable energy, so it can be challenging to keep up with them.

A well-trained Jack Russell Terrier is a great hunting dog with unparalleled agility and hunting instincts.

13. Border Collie

Although Border Collies are famous as sheep-herding dogs, they can also become great at squirrel hunting since they are highly trainable and clever.

With their unlimited amounts of energy, exceptional stamina and agility, and highly developed sense of smell, Collies can be used for hunting any wild game.

14. Kemmer Cur

Kemmer Cur is also known as the Kemmer Stock Hybrid Dog or Cajun Squirrel Dog.

This hybrid dog is almost indistinguishable from the Mountain Cur since they come from the same bloodline and they are equally adept at squirrel hunting.

15. Black Mouth Cur

Easily recognizable due to its black muzzle and golden brown coat, the Black Mouth Cur is a loyal, affectionate pet and a fearless hunter.

These dogs are strong, adaptable, and highly intelligent, with a great ability for treeing.

16. Bluetick Coonhound

The beautiful Bluetick Coonhound is a large dog breed named for its mottled or ticked coat pattern of black and blue.

These dogs are muscled but also sleek and athletic, incredibly vocal, and with a high prey drive that needs to be adequately channeled.

17. Denmark Feist

This is a medium-sized breed that is a hybrid of Mountain Feists, along with Thornburg Feist, Kemmer Feist, and a few others.

Also called Denmark Treeing Feist or DenMark Treeing Feist, this dog is a champion when it comes to hunting small critters like squirrels and raccoons.

18. Leopard Cur

Perhaps better known as the American Leopard Hound, this breed is one of the most versatile hunters out there. It is a medium to large dog that is highly energetic and outstandingly adaptable to weather conditions.

19. Treeing Tennessee Brindle

The Treeing Tennessee Brindle is a type of cur dog that has a proficient nose and a powerful voice. These dogs are sturdy, intelligent, and dependable, with short and smooth brindle coats.

When should you start training a squirrel dog?

Squirrel dog training should start while they’re young, preferably three to six months of age.

It’s best to develop a bond with your fido as early as possible, and you can teach him basic commands that will be useful while hunting.

Take this time to introduce your pup to squirrels by tying a squirrel tail at the end of a stick or pole.

This will help him get familiar with the scent, then tie it to a tree to encourage him to bark whenever he’s treeing squirrels. Some owners use live bait.

Hunters have a saying: “A dog can’t learn to hunt in the kennel.” That means you have to take your dog for a live pursuit.

Start in an area with plenty of squirrels so that it’s easy for your dog and it will raise his confidence. Then try different locations later on.

Keep the sessions short and positive to produce the best results as a dog trainer.

How to Successfully Squirrel Hunt with Dogs?

Squirrel hunting may sound simple – follow your dog while he locates the tree where a squirrel is hiding, or chase one up a tree – but in reality, it’s more complicated.

Before anything else, you should know that some squirrels are harder to spot, like gray squirrels.

You should also have a canine companion with a great nose to determine where the squirrel exactly is before you shoot it.

It’s also best that you learn these hunting terms before you and your squirrel dog hang out with fellow hunters:

• Bark Treed – The sound that a dog makes when he locates the squirrel in a tree
• Timbering – A term for a squirrel running through the trees, trying to escape
• Toenailed – When a dog pins the squirrel by positioning himself on the bark of a tree
• Has the Meat – When a squirrel is confirmed on the tree
• Range – The distance between the hunter and the dog while searching for a squirrel

Frequently Asked Questions About Squirrel Dogs

What Time of Day Are Squirrels Most Active?

Squirrels are usually active all day, particularly in the fall and spring when they look for food. However, they are most active during dusk and dawn.

What Happens When a Dog Catches a Squirrel?

Well-trained squirrel dogs will kill the squirrel when they catch it, but they will not eat it. Untrained dogs might eat the squirrel after they catch it.

Will My Dog Get Sick from Eating a Squirrel?

If the squirrel is freshly killed, and your dog is healthy and on parasite control, he will most likely be fine. However, squirrels are hosts to many parasites, so the risk of transmission always exists.

What Diseases Can Squirrels Transmit to Dogs?

Some of the more common diseases transmitted from squirrels to dogs include plague, rabies, and Lyme disease. In some parts of the United States, squirrels can also carry a deadly disease called Leptospirosis.

Can a Squirrel Kill a Dog?

Squirrels can harm your canine with their sharp teeth and claws, but a dog getting killed by a squirrel is highly unlikely and borders on impossible.

Should I Let My Dog Chase Squirrels?

Unless you are training your dog for squirrel hunting, you should discourage such dangerous behavior in public places.

How Do I Stop My Dog from Chasing Squirrels?

Starting obedience training when the dog is young can be very helpful when you try to control his hunting instincts. Get your dog to concentrate on you during walks.

How Much Does a Good Squirrel Dog Cost?

Squirrel dogs from a good stock cost $100 to $200, but you can buy experienced treeing dogs with a price range of $500 to $5,000.

These amounts depend on the dog’s age, gender, whether it was trained, and if it’s squirrel season.

Verdict: Should you get a Squirrel Dog?

If you plan to go squirrel hunting, it is critical to have a good squirrel dog and know how to utilize him.

Otherwise, it might be preferable to choose another breed – squirrel dogs are tremendously energetic and require a job to be healthy and satisfied.

Are you an avid squirrel hunter? Do you have something to add or contribute to more training tips? Let us know in the comments.

Reference

• https://www.cdc.gov/leptospirosis/pets/infection/index.html

Find the best hunting rangefinder is quite a task these days with so many great brands and options out there. Long gone are the days where you only had a few top picks to choose from.

Now, each and every hunter has to sort through all of these makes and models, and review each of their best features and characteristics. While today’s models are super advanced, they really haven’t made it easy for us hunters to figure out which one is best suited for our style of hunting.

The Quick Summary Overall, the Best Hunting Rangefinder is the Vortex Optics Crossfire HD!Below you can check out other top options including the… – Best Rangefinder For Bowhunting: Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5- Best Binocular With Rangefinder For Hunting: Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000- Most Affordable Hunting Rangefinder: TIDEWE Hunting RangefinderAnd scroll down to find out the one thing to avoid when picking your rangefinder!

This blog article was personally constructed after comparing my own notes from using a few of these models, to the thousands of reviews and comments out there on the internet.

Additionally, I also had to get on the phone with a few brands to clarify what these specific features mean and how they best help hunters when we’re out in the field.

Of course, I wasn’t able to list and review every single model out there, so I decided to categorize the top picks within a few select categories. These areas are heavily searched by hunters, and I think these choices will benefit hunters the most.

Trivia Question: Do you know when and where the first laser rangefinder was invented? (Click here to see answer).

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Best Rangefinder For Hunting

Vortex Optics Crossfire HD 1400

The Crossfire HD 1400 is the 2024 best rangefinder for hunting because it is perfect for both bow and rifle hunters, and offers a variety of features designed to enhance your hunting experience. With a maximum range of 1,400 yards and an HD optical system, this rangefinder lets you spot your targets with ease, no matter the environment.

The Crossfire HD 1400 has three target modes and two ranging modes, ensuring accurate readings. It also features a red TOLED display, making the readout clear in any lighting conditions. Despite its lightweight design, this rangefinder is built to last, with durable materials that can withstand the rigors of hunting and the great outdoors.

In conclusion, the Crossfire HD 1400 is the ultimate laser rangefinder for hunters. Its outstanding range, multiple modes, clear display, and lightweight, durable design make it the perfect choice for bow and rifle hunters alike. So if you’re looking for a reliable and versatile rangefinder to take your hunting game to the next level, be sure to check out the Crossfire HD 1400.

For latest prices, and more information about the Vortex Optics Crossfire HD 1400, click below!

Best Bowhunting Rangefinder

Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5

Alert to all bowhunters out there – We have a pick for you!

If you’re a bowhunter or competitive archer, you need a rangefinder that can keep up with you and your tough shots, look no further than the RX-FullDraw 5 – the most advanced archery rangefinder on the market. It uses your bow’s velocity, peep height, arrow weight, and shot angles to provide laser-accurate ranges tailored to your equipment.

But that’s not all – the RX-FullDraw 5 now accepts even lower velocity inputs, accommodating arrows as slow as 170 feet per second. And with its updated flightpath technology, you can choose from two modes to view arrow obstructions up to 85 yards away. Plus, the rangefinder’s Last Target mode can cut through rain, fog, and snow, ensuring accuracy even in challenging weather conditions.

With six times magnification, a bright red OLED display, and a speedy laser engine, the RX-FullDraw 5 gives you a clear advantage on the field. So if you’re looking for a rangefinder that’s customized to your archery gear and conditions, the RX-FullDraw 5 is the ultimate choice.

For latest prices, and more information on the Leupold RX-Fulldraw 5, take a look below!

Best Hunting Binocular With Rangefinder

Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000

The Fury HD 5000 is the ultimate laser rangefinder binocular for hunters, archers, and shooters. With 10x magnification and 42mm objective lenses, it provides an extremely effective and versatile tool for the field.

Its primary HCD mode displays an angle-compensated distance that’s perfect for most hunters and shooters, whether using a rifle or a bow. Choose from two target modes: Best Mode, which displays the strongest range result, and Last Mode, which displays the furthest distance and is ideal for ranging targets behind obstructions. With the Fury HD 5000, you’ll never miss a shot again.

For latest prices, and more information on the Vortex Optics Fury HD 5000, we have that as well!

Most Affordable Hunting Rangefinder

TIDEWE Hunting Rangefinder

The TideWe rangefinder offers 6x magnification and displays vertical and horizontal distance, speed, and can continuously scan all factors influencing your play. It accurately ranges from 3 to 1000 yards with fast measurements within +/- 1 yard and a measuring speed of <0.5s. It is lightweight at only 0.35lb and durable, made from strong materials to protect from drops and is weather-resistant.

This rangefinder is easy to use with a simple button push to get instant range data on an easy-to-read LCD display. It comes with a rechargeable Li-ion battery that can measure 20000 times after a full charge, has a clear LCD display, and an ergonomic design for comfortable handling.

And one last thing – the TideWe rangefinder features a popular camo pattern and includes a bag to save the rangefinder.

For latest prices, and more information on the TIDEWE Hunting Rangefinder, we have that as well!

Things To Consider When Choosing A Hunting Rangefinder

Maximum Distance

Comparing your next rangefinder’s max distance to your weapon of choice and style of hunting is going to be a key consideration point before making a final purchase.

Each manufacturer should properly list out their model’s maximum effective distance, but there’s one thing to keep in mind here….

Some models are only going to highlight the max range at a reflective target. As a hunter, you’ll want to check what that top range is going to be at ‘game’ – not just something that’s 100% reflective.

Pro Tip: Make sure your rangefinder has an angle compensation feature, especially if you hunt from a treesstand.

Ease Of Use & Display

Hunting rangefinders have evolved to offer amazing ranging capabilities, but not all of them offer these top features in an effective package.

If you want a rangefinder that’s going to properly adjust for elevation, wind & fog, choice of reticle, etc. it’s clear that you might have to toggle through a few options within your optical.

After analyzing what all your rangefinder can offer, make sure to spend the time figuring out how to enable these features. Most optimal options are going to offer a simple, single ‘Mode’ model button to toggle through everything. If you’re doing more than this, you might be getting yourself in a more complicated position.

Object Detection

When hunting in wooded areas, or in inclement weather, you need to have a rangefinder that’s going to successful pick up your desired object with minimal interference.

Hunting with a subpar optical in wind and fog, or having brush in between you and your prey can cause serious issues.

Make sure your new hunting rangefinder has some sort of technology that can properly eliminate these peripheral objects to identify what’s important. Not doing so can provide inaccurate range readings.

Hunting Style

Everything above and below in this article is going to come down to this one question – “What type of rangefinder do I need for my hunting style?”

Back in the day, you were ultimately stuck with only a few options when it came to rangefinders. Now, you have the option to choose binocular style, bow-specific, long range, etc.

Of course, you can always choose a more expensive model to take care of more than you need, but if you want to be a little more realistic be sure to compare the available features, alongside price points, to what you’re really going to be needing this for.

Most Popular Rangefinder FAQs

1. What Is A Hunting Rangefinder?

A hunting rangefinder is an optical instrument, typically handheld, that is used to determine the distance between a hunter and their prey.

2. How Do Rangefinders Work?

Rangefinders send a laser beam towards your target. An internal digital clock measures the time it takes for the beam to reach the target and back. It then calculates the distance based on that time.

3. What’s The Difference Between A Hunting And Golf Rangefinder?

All in all, there’s not a lot of core difference between hunting and golf rangefinders. Largely the difference comes in the different modes available, along with their associated price points.

4. How Much Do Rangefinders Cost?

On average, most hunting rangefinders are going to cost you between $100 and $600. While there are some cheaper than this, the quality starts to slip really quick. Lastly, any rangefinder above this price, those that range up to $2,000 are most likely going to be reserved for extreme hunters and guides.

5. What Outdoor Brands Make Rangefinders?

The top hunting rangefinder brands including the following:

1. Bushnell

2. Leupold

3. Nikon

4. Vortex

5. Mavin

6. Swarovski

6. Are There Good Rangefinder Options Under $200?

Yes, there are several great rangefinder options under $200. For an easy list of these, here’s a link to Amazon with the best hunting rangefinders under $200.

One Thing To Avoid!

Make Sure You Have Angle Compensation

Angle compensation is a crucial feature in any hunting rangefinders. It calculates the difference in elevation and provides an accurate reading as if you were shooting on level ground. Without it, the elevation change can create a false reading and result in a missed shot or a wounded animal.

For example, on a 30-degree angle slope with a line-of-sight shot distance of 500 yards, without angle compensation, you would aim for 500 yards. However, with angle compensation, you’ll need to shoot for 433 yards. So, if you’re in the market for a new hunting rangefinder, make sure you choose one with angle compensation.

Answer: The first laser rangefinder was invented in France in 1933.

For a blog about the Best Hunting Binoculars, take a look today!

Whitetails use the land differently throughout the year. From bedding and feeding perspectives, whitetails have different needs in spring, summer, fall, and winter. Core areas shift. Different parts of home ranges are utilized. But for now, it’s the early season, and there are certain things to know.

First, let’s define “early season” as the portion of deer season leading up to the pre rut. In most states, this generally falls between August and mid-October.

Every good whitetail treestand location should be chosen with careful thought and consideration. Wind direction, proximity to bedding, food, water, or security cover — it’s important to give yourself as many options as possible as deer patterns shift. But there’s another way to categorize stand locations. These two groups include topography-specific or habitat- and terrain-specific hotspots.

Once a hunter knows what characteristics to look for, HuntStand helps reveal these gems. That’s true for brand-new properties, and even those you’ve hunted forever. As someone who’s hunted some of the same properties for 25 years, sometimes you learn new things about tracts, even when you thought you had them completely figured out.

Topography-Specific Hotspots

Topography is best defined as change in elevation. Hills, hollows, bottomlands, ridges — these and more are characteristics of changing topography. In short, it’s the opposite of pancake-flat ground. And if I’ve learned anything in my 25 years of deer hunting, it’s that topography can make or break a hunt. It can also create and present excellent early season treestand locations.

1. Leeward Ridges: The downwind sides of ridgelines oftentimes have bucks, and other deer, bedded on them. This is true even in the early season, especially if hunting pressure is already ramping up.

2. Low Spots: During the early season, deer like low spots for multiple reasons. First, scent gathers here. Second, it’s cooler. Third, water is more likely to be present. And fourth, green food sources are more likely.

3. Near Water: Water is important all year, but especially when it’s hot. Not just for drinking, though. Usually, it means lush growth for eating, and cooler air for comfort.

4. Watering Holes: Focus on secluded, stagnant (or slow moving) water sources to see mature bucks.

5. Ridge Lines: Oftentimes, ridge lines have hard or soft mast, including oaks. When these start dropping, be there.

6. Ridge Points: Deer commonly bed on ridge points (endings), especially if a hot food source is down below.

7. Thermal Hubs: Also referred to as crow’s feet, thermal hubs are where multiple ridge endings taper down (from multiple directions) in the same spot. Here, thermals collect, and deer use that to their advantage.

8. Solar Bedding: Pinpoint northern-facing slopes, which receive less sunlight. (Pro tip: You usually see more daylight walking by mature bucks here.)

Fortunately for HuntStand users, key HuntStand layers help identify topography specific hotspots. Some of these include 3D, Contour, Quad Topo, Terrain, etc.

Hanging Stands: Choosing the Best Treestand Tree on the Property

Habitat and Terrain-Specific Hotspots

While topography-specific stand locations tend to have greater effect on reliable deer movement, there are many more habitat- and terrain-specific spots to consider. These too can create an excellent opportunity for stands.

9. Ag Field Edges: Alfalfa, clover (in hay fields), soybeans, and others, are all great ag field options.

10. Appearing Rub Lines: As bucks come out of velvet, and start to establish their travel routes, rubs will appear. Use these markers to help choose stand locations.

11. Draws: U-shaped fields and openings with timber on three sides attract deer. If good bedding areas and food sources are present, expect deer movement.

12. Crossings: Pinch points are relevant all year, especially for bowhunters. Keep creek, fence, and other crossings at the forefront.

13. Hidden Fields: Secluded fields are excellent options for deer hunters. Mature bucks are more likely to use these than fields that are more exposed.

14. Inside Field Corners: Anywhere a field creates an L shape in the timber is an inside field corner. If a relevant bedding area is close to it, give it bonus points.

15. Mast Trees: Hard and soft mast trees are important elements of the early season. Hard mast trees, such as chestnuts, red oaks, and white oaks, are key trees to pinpoint. Soft mast trees, such as apples, pears, and persimmons, are hot food sources, too.

16. Micro Food Plots: Small food plots positioned in strategic locations can be incredible plays during the early season. Of course, this requires a plant species that hits peak attractiveness at this time, though.

17. Scrapes and Mock Scrapes: Whitetails hit scrapes (and mock scrapes) all year long. But this action really starts to ramp up during the early season and pre-rut.

18. Staging Areas: Anywhere that deer tend to congregate at last light is a staging area. Find these that are located between early season bedding areas and food sources.

19. Thermal Bedding: Throughout the year, deer use different types of bedding cover. During the early season, that’s oftentimes thermal bedding, such as cedar thickets. These hold cooler air in the heat of the year and warmer air in the cool of the year.

20. Trail Emergences: Anywhere a trail leads from a bedding area to a food or water source can be a solid bet for killing a target deer.

21. Trail Intersections: Don’t quite have your deer patterned yet? Consider trail intersections. This increases the odds of seeing the deer you are after.

As with topography-centric areas, key HuntStand layers help identify habitat and terrain specific hotspots, too. Some of these include 3D Map, Hybrid, Mapbox Satellite, Natural Atlas, National Aerial Imagery, Satellite, Tree Cover, Whitetail Habitat Map, and more.

How to Speed Scout with HuntStand Pro’s Monthly Satellite Imagery

Patterns Change Quickly

Now that you’re equipped with plenty of target treestand location types, understand that these spots aren’t guarantees. You still must scout in the field, study the situation, and determine if deer are currently using these spots, or not. Deer have short-, mid-, and long-term patterns. Each of these are driven by bedding needs, changing food sources, hunting pressure, and more.

Naturally, the most recent info is most important. Things change quickly. If running trail cameras, or glassing deer in the field, focus on that. Also, property conditions and layout being similar as past years, reflect on historical trail camera photos and in-the-field encounters to see how, when, and where deer used the land.

For those interested in knowing what bedding areas are being used by target bucks (or deer in general) at a given time, consider soaking cellular trail cameras on the fringes of these. Pair these with external battery sources to maximize battery life. Because, once these cameras go dead, you won’t want to invade bedding areas to revitalize these during the season.

Next-Level Deer Hunting with HuntStand Pro Whitetail

Prepare for the Pre-Rut Shift

As we move closer to some opening days, and deeper into seasons already open, expect disbursement to happen. Eventually, as many as 50% of bucks will shift into their fall ranges, which might not overlap with early season stand locations.

So, as you begin to see new bucks on the landscape, work to identify bucks as new or returning. When trying to determine who a specific buck is, pay attention to physical identifiers, including antler mass, antler spread, antler structure, body markings, body scars, body size, brow tine characteristics, facial coloration, fur coloration, fur patterns, tine length, unique points, and more. Also, pay attention to behavioral tendencies.

Once we transition out of the early season, and ease into the pre-rut, consider looking to treestand locations for that period. Focus on key food sources at that time. Generally, these are geographic specific. Solid picks include seasonal bedding area edges, food sources edges, pockets of falling mast crops, staging areas, micro food plots, and more. Additionally, under the right circumstances, don’t overlook all-season locations, including funnels, inside field corners, isolated watering holes, pinch-points, saddles, scrapes, mock scrapes, and more.

But until then, continue to focus all efforts on great early season treestand locations. And keep using HuntStand to dial in on those early season hotspots.

Find Public-Land Deer Hotspots on the Fly with HuntStand Pro

HuntStand Pro vs. HuntStand Pro Whitetail

HuntStand is a valuable tool for deer hunters. It’s offered on multiple levels, including Pro and Pro Whitetail. Each of these offers more options than the last, and it’s important for deer hunters to determine which of these best fits their needs, style of hunting, and more.

HuntStand Pro

Those who choose HuntStand Pro will have access to powerful app tools and incredibly useful layers. Each of these will aid in the pursuit of successful land management, public land hunting, communication with hunting partners, and much more. Unlike the free version of HuntStand, it’s an ad-free experience.

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A solid rifle, good ammo, and a well-made scope are the keys to getting accurate and precise rounds on target, right?

Well, we forget one thing; the glue that holds the rifle to the scope — the scope mount. Without a good mount, you won’t have a good zero.

Without a good zero, you won’t hit your target when needed.

So let’s talk scope mounts, and hopefully, the only question you’ll have at the end is FDE or Black.

THE QUICK LIST

Why You Should Trust Us

I am a Marine veteran with plenty of time spent behind big guns. I also am an NRA-certified instructor and concealed carry trainer out of Florida. I spent hours at my home range testing, analyzing, and reviewing guns and gear — to include optics and scope mounts.

There are hundreds of different options that range from crap to holy crap, and by holy crap, I mean some cost as much as some guns I own.

It’d be easy to toss only expensive mounts on this list, but I wanted to make a list the majority of shooters could get. This doesn’t mean cheap, but I’m mostly aiming for affordable.

Best Scope Mounts

1. Vortex Viper Riflescope Rings

Vortex makes some excellent optics across all budgets, and their rings are no different.

These quality rings are affordable and come in low, medium, and high designs. They are designed for both Picatinny and Weaver bases as well.

Their Viper Rings are machined from 6061-T6 aluminum and use Torx-style socket cap screws to mount your riflescope easily. They are available in both 1-inch and 30mm configurations as well.

These are very secure scope rings, and I like the opening design. Having the Torx screws at the top makes it easier to access them.

This also prevents you from overtightening on one side versus the other as you install your scope.

2. Spuhr QDP

If you are going to spend big money on a good rifle and good glass, then you need to be willing to spend the money necessary to get a good scope mount.

A long-range rifle is often high-powered; to maximize the range, you’ll need a powerful optic, which often means a heavy optic. High recoil and a heavy optic require you to have a robust scope mount.

You don’t get any more robust than the Spuhr mounts. Specifically, the Spuhr QDP series, which I think is one of the best mounts on the planet.

The QDP line features a quick detach lever system. I love a good QD system, and the Spuhr setup locks the thing down and keeps it locked in place without issue. You don’t have any kind of movement when you shoot at extreme ranges.

These mounts come in both straight and cantilever styles with a rock-solid locking system. Load it up, lock it down, and have confidence that you won’t miss what you need to hit when your optic is mounted in a Spuhr mount.

3. Aero Ultralight Mount

Aero Precision makes a lot of great stuff for the AR platform, and you can count on them to deliver something with a tremendous amount of value for the cost.

The Ultralight Mount is one of those products that provide great value. Living up to its name and weighing roughly 3.25 ounces, the Aero mount is strong enough for just about any use case and rifle combo but still light enough not to ruin your build.

What’s your take on the Aero Lightweights? Rate them below!

4. Leupold Dual Dovetail

Leupold is a famed optics and optics accessories manufacturer. The Leupold Dual Dovetail Rings are perfect for getting a low and secure mount on your dovetail-equipped rifle.

This is a simple, rugged setup that is easy to install and well-suited for hunting rifles. I appreciate the simplicity of a dovetail mount system. It’s not for everyone, and it’s a bit out of style these days, but it still works.

Leupold is undoubtedly doing their best to support dovetail set-ups and is one of the few significant players still producing dovetail bases and rings.

5. Burris AR-P.E.P.R.

Brevity doesn’t seem to be in Burris’ wheelhouse when it comes to naming optics mounts.

The AR-P.E.P.R. is a cantilever mount for modern rifles available in both standard and QD configurations.

The P.E.P.R is a solid mount if a little bit on the heavier side at 8.7 ounces. It is available in 1-inch, 30mm, and 34mm configurations.

It sports two sections of Picatinny rails on the top of each ring, making it easy to attach a miniature red dot as a backup sight. The cantilever also gives you two inches of forward scope position, making it perfect for MSRs.

The Burris AR-P.E.P.R. is an excellent design and an affordable one. It’s also backed by one of the best warranties in the business.

6. Warne QD rings

For quality QD rings, look no further than Warne. Like the Vortex rings, the screws are at the top, making it easier to take apart and install an optic.

The QD aspect is a simple large throw lever. It’s easy to reach and grip, even with an optic sitting right over it. The Warne rings come in 1-inch and 30mm models for both Picatinny rails and dovetail bases.

The rings also come in low, medium, and high heights. The lever is also indexable, which means you can position it where you need and want it for easy removal.

Warne has long been known for their precision machining and solid build quality. For the money, they are hard to beat.

7. Scalarworks LEAP Mounts

When it comes to red dot mounts, it’s tough to beat Scalarworks. They produce some top-tier stuff, and as a shotgun nerd, I love the Sync mount system, and for rifles, it’s going to be tough to be the LEAP mounts.

These are made for specific footprints and are made in various heights. You can use optics like the Trijicon MRO, the RMR, the Aimpoint T and H series, the CompM5, the Pro, and many more with these mounts. If it’s a pro-grade optic, there is likely a LEAP mount made for it.

Height-wise, you get lower 1/3rd, absolute, and the heads-up 1.93-inch mounts available. These mounts are ultra-light and slide in under 2 ounces or so.

Scalarworks trimmed the sides to eliminate any kind of levels or bolts hanging off the mounts. Those things find a way to grab your clothing and gear and, on some platforms, provide a nice means to smash your knuckles.

The Click Drive quick detach mechanism allows for easy and smooth attachment and detachment a nice positive attachment. It’s recoil-proof, self-adjusting, and just ultimately fantastic if you want a modern red dot mount.

It’s well suited for your modern semi-auto carbine, and it’s a professional grade mount with a professional grade purpose.

8. Dueck Defense RBU

Replacing your rear sight with an optic mounting plate can be tricky. It works fine for competition and plinking but can be suspect for home defense, concealed carry, and similar applications. The one rear sight replacement that defies this expectation is the Dueck Defense RBU.

This is as tough as they get and provides you with a very solid mounting system that’s dependable, easy to install, and comes with a set of backup irons. It’s a plate that mounts to the rear sight channel and front and rear iron sight for co-witnessing with your red dot.

The RBU comes in several different configurations to accommodate various optic footprints. This includes Trijicon, Docter, and many more. If it’s a mainstream dot, there is probably a Dueck for it.

The design is rugged, and CNC machined from US Mill-certified bar stock. It’s nitride coated and made to last.

This isn’t a hobbyist take on mounting a red dot to your pistol. The RBUs are even compatible with the majority of RDS-compatible holsters as well.

Types of Mounts

Like everything in the firearms world, you have options. Lots and lots of options. This isn’t just options for different companies, but different options for mount designs.

The two primary choices are one-piece mounts and scope rings. Choosing between the two will depend on a few different factors.

In some cases, it will just be a personal preference. In others, it will be based on how your rifle is set up or what you want your gun to achieve.

Let’s talk about each design…

One Piece

One-piece mounts are all the rage these days. They are simple, easy to mount and dismount, and perfect for the modern tactical rifle.

Most will require a rail base like those on flat-top AR 15s.

One-piece mounts are very rigid and robust and often built at heights that work well with modern rifles.

One-piece mounts do tend to be heavier than rings, and if you are trying to trim ounces, these aren’t the choice for you. These mounts are best suited for semi-auto rifles, in my opinion.

Scope Rings

Scope rings are just that — two rings that attach to the gun, and then the scope is mounted in them. The design is simple and has worked for generations.

Scope rings are lighter in weight and generally a bit cheaper than most one-piece mounts when comparable quality is taken into account.

They are usually more natural to use with bolt-action rifles, as one-piece mounts can get in the way of the bolt while it is being actuated.

Compared to one-piece mounts, rings are a bit more complicated to attach and aren’t as rigid, but with a little practice, they aren’t hard to figure out.

Base Types

Not only are there different mounts, but there are different bases to which they attach. You have to match the base to the mounting system, so it’s crucial you understand the difference between the two.

Here are a few of the most universal mounting systems.

Weaver and Picatinny

Rails, we all know them, and we all love them; they changed how we could attach accessories to guns. When it comes to optics, there are two you need to know about, Weaver and Picatinny.

There are slight dimensional differences between Picatinny and Weaver rails and bases. In most cases, rings or mounts made for Picatinny mounts will work with Weaver bases and vice versa.

However, this isn’t always the case, and it’s hard to say that specific mounts will work with particular bases if they do not match. Picatinny rails are the military standard, and Weaver is a commercial standard that predates it.

Mounts have bolts or cross-slots that fill the empty sections of these rails to keep the optic from sliding rearward with recoil and make it impossible for the scope to slip in transit or travel of any kind.

Picatinny rails are broader and deeper than Weaver rails, and this is where you may run into issues. If the mount features cross slots and bolts designed to strict Picatinny standards, it won’t fit into a Weaver base. However, Weaver mounts will fit Picatinny rails as far as I know.

Another issue is that weaver mounts may have irregularly placed slots, making mounting a one-piece difficult due to the uneven spacing. Picatinny rails always have evenly placed rails.

I suggest matching Weaver with Weaver and Picatinny with Picatinny when in doubt.

Dovetail

Dovetail mounts can come in different sizes and styles, but they generally refer to an inverted trapezoid (dovetail) shaped track that runs parallel to the bore. They are simple and work well.

Another type of dovetail rail you may see is the one that utilizes a lightweight, two-piece system with a rotating locking base. You’ll see these mostly on bolt action rifles.

Some Dovetail bases will only have a forward slot, and the rear ring and base can be adjusted almost like a rear sight. This design adds extra left and right adjustment to an optic.

Dovetails are a remarkably lightweight and very sturdy system. They get the scope nice and tight to the bore of your rifle.

Integral

Integral designs are when the base and ring or mount are one solid piece. This super simple option is preferred if you want to keep things simple.

Of course, your rifle will have to be built to accept an integral mount. Many bolt actions are, but zero AR-15s are. So know that going into it.

It’s a very low-maintenance solution to the scope mounting problem.

Offset Mounts

These mounts push the scope forward. These are designed mostly for AR pattern rifles. as the gun was originally intended for carry handle iron sights.

If you mount with a traditional system, you’ll likely end up with the optic too far rearward, making it challenging to use.

An offset mount allows you to install the optic with the rings pushed forward, positioning the scope further from your eye to provide proper eye relief. This makes it much more comfortable to use powerful variable optics on an AR platform.

What About QD?

QD, or Quick Detach, systems are gaining popularity. A QD system is quick to mount and dismount and usually uses a locking throw lever design.

These systems are easy to install, and there is no worry about tightening them too little or too much.

With a QD mount, it is easy to remove an optic from a gun and retain a relative zero. It needs to be installed on the same rail position it was zeroed on to maintain the zero.

This allows you to efficiently run multiple optics on one gun. It’s easy to swap between a red dot and a variable optic with a QD mounting system or even swap between daylight and nighttime optics.

Mount Height

Typically, you want to mount your scope as low as possible without touching the barrel — this aids in keeping your adjustments accurate and getting the most out of them.

With that in mind, the size of your scope’s objective lens and barrel profile (thickness) will determine the ring height needed.

The general rule of thumb to follow with mount sight and objective lenses is:

A 40mm or smaller objective lens uses low mounts.

A 42-45mm objective lens uses a medium mount.

50mm and up will use a high scope mount.

These measurements are taken with a standard contour barrel — nothing fancy here.

Final Thoughts

The world of scope mounts is enormous, and the impact of your choices is way more significant than most people expect.

Outside of some necessities, a lot of your choices should be personal preference. This means I want to turn it over to you folks.

Do you prefer a specific style of mounting? What works for you? Let us know in the comments below! Haven’t picked out a scope yet? Check out our hands-on review of the 10 Best Rifle Scopes: All Types and Budgets!

It’s spotted (or speckled) seatrout time!

I remember how excited I was the first time I finally figured out how to catch seatrout.

My only regret was that I really wish someone had taught me the three shortcuts that I am about to share with you.

Why?

Because I can vividly recall how frustrated I was getting when I was hardly catching anything on our vacation trips to the coast when I was used to consistently catching bass on the lakes in my hometown… it was painfully frustrating!

To me, fishing was not just a basic hobby to fill in free time… it was an absolute passion.

It is what I spent all of my lawn mowing money on. And I would do all I could do to get out on the water as much as humanly possible.

This passion allowed me to become a very accomplished bass angler at a young age, but I had a very difficult time making the proper adjustments to find success along the coast of Florida.

So here are three essential shortcuts that anyone can use for catching seatrout in Florida (and beyond):

1. Learn How To Assess An Area For Feeding Seatrout

Learning how to assess an area for feeding seatrout is by far the most important shortcut of all.

It is the core factor causing most anglers to come home empty handed… or nothing more than a measly catfish (which many believe are even worse than catching nothing at all).

To be able to consistently catch seatrout, it is absolutely essential to be able to quickly assess an area for it potential to be a good feeding ground.

Without this knowledge, you’ll waste tons of time fishing in spots that have very little chance of success.

Fortunately, finding good seatrout feeding areas isn’t complicated and doesn’t require a sixth sense…

In fact, it’s actually quite easy once you simply focus on these 3 things:

1. Structure
2. Bait
3. Current

Yes, these three simple variables will significantly help you find good areas to catch seatrout… even in regions that you’ve never even been to before which will make vacation trips to a new area even more enjoyable.

Here’s a breakdown of what to consider within each of the variables:

Structure

In saltwater fishing, there are a lot of different forms of structure that often hold predator fish like seatrout, redfish, snook, etc… here’s a brief list:

• Seagrass*
• Oyster Bars
• Points
• Trees/Roots/Stumps
• Rocks
• Docks

*For the quickest shortcut for finding seatrout, I recommend focusing on underwater seagrass because seatrout often stay around seagrass beds where they feed and reproduce.

So focusing on seagrass will be key in consistently catching trout, and these areas can be easy to spot from free online maps with the trained eye…

Note: Secret tips for reading this online map image example for seatrout feeding areas is explained below the putting it all together section.

Bait

If we could read a seatrout’s mind, my guess is that only two things will be there:

1. Where can I get my next meal?
2. How can I not be a meal to something else?

Knowing that food is one of their primary concerns, it is extremely important to pay attention to what type of bait is in the area you’re fishing.

If you’re not seeing any type of bait making ripples on the surface or flashing under the water, and you’re also not feeling any slight nibbles on your lure from small pinfish, snapper, etc., then it’s time to move to another spot where more food is present.

When you are seeing bait, make sure to take note of its size and shape so that you can select a lure that resembles the bait that’s in the area.

But when in doubt, a 3 to 4-inch soft plastic jig is a safe bet.

And when using soft plastics, always remember that rigging it is incredibly essential… here’s a video showing how to rig one of my favorite trout jigs:

Current

Seatrout are ambush predators that prefer to stay still and pounce on an unsuspecting prey for an easy meal.

And current significantly helps them get more food with less effort because it allows them to hide in the seagrass while waiting on shrimp or small baitfish to come close to their hiding spot.

So I recommend focusing on areas that are close to passes/inlets that get a good amount of clean running water throughout tidal fluctuations whenever possible.

Putting It All Together: Structure + Bait + Current

Since seatrout are focused on where they’ll find their next meal while being protected from becoming the next meal to something bigger, focusing on areas that have healthy seagrass, bait, and some current is incredibly important.

Having two of those variables is great, but having all 3 should be the core goal.

Wondering how to find areas with good seagrass?

Although nothing beats seeing areas firsthand, there simply isn’t enough time in the day to check out all areas from the water.

And of course not all seagrass areas are created equal… here’s an easy tip that’ll help narrow down your search.

I highly recommend using online maps like Google or Bing so that you can narrow down your search to areas that have grass that’s visible from satellite images.

How To Use Online Maps To Find Seagrass

For seatrout, I have the best results fishing areas with healthy grass with potholes scattered around… from online maps, this ideal bottom looks like a camo pattern (see below):

As you can see, these online satellite maps can show a very good look at the bottom structure and respective contour. And this helpful insight allows you to put together a good plan before you even get out on the water.

For example, you can clearly see the dark regions (which is seagrass)… and the light areas that are mixed in the dark grass areas are potholes that seatrout often use as ambush points.

Further, you can even use the clarity of the bottom to get a pretty good gauge at the depth of the water.

With this knowledge, you now know what specific areas to target during a certain tide.

For example, low tide would make the deeper spots more appealing while a high tide typically has the fish shifting up into shallower areas to feed.

How to Determine Water Depth From Satellite Images

To determine the water depth, you simply can use the clarity of the lines between sand and grass to be able to judge its depth.

For example, the edges of sand to grass in the areas where the “Shallow Camo” text is displayed is much more crisp than the surrounding areas which means that it’s shallower. This spot is so shallow and clear that you can even see prop scars in the grass (the white lines are from Googans running over the flat while their prop is cutting up the grass).

Important Note: Always be very mindful of your motor when going over grassflats because it takes seagrass a very long time to recover from prop damage… slow down to no wake and trim the motor way up so that it’s out of the grass. I even have passengers get up to the front of my boat so that it raises the prop even higher (surprisingly effective for small boats).

2. Use The Right Gear

Many people cringe when thinking about having to go to a store to pick out fishing equipment knowing that the budget seems to get overblown every time.

But for seatrout, the tackle used to catch them does not have to be top of the line. In fact, I find that most people spend way more than necessary when targeting seatrout and redfish on the flats and inshore waterways.

Since seatrout aren’t the strongest fighters, and their teeth (although sharp) are not good at breaking leaders so heavy tackle is not needed.

In fact, I found that I catch way more fish when I’m using my 10 lb braid with 20 lb leader than I ever did when I used to use 20 lb main line to 30+ lb leader… and not just more, I’m catching much bigger fish too.

So here’s what I recommend for seatrout:

• Rod – 7′ to 7’6″ Medium to Medium Heavy
• Reel – small spinning reel (2000 to 2500 series for most brands)
• Line – 8 lb to 10 lb braid
• Leader – 20 lb fluorocarbon
• Lure – soft plastic bait rigged on a jig head

And here are some specifics for each:

Best Fishing Rod For Seatrout

Although most people seem to focus on the quality of their fishing reels with little attention paid to the rod, I completely disagree with that order of importance.

For example, I’d much rather go fishing with a $10 kids reel attached to a good rod, than use a $400 reel paired with a $10 kids rod.

This is because the rod does a vast majority of the work:

• Casts bait
• Feels strikes
• Sets the hook
• Works lure (assuming artificial lure is being used)
• Provides necessary bending cushion when fighting fish

Essentially, the fishing rod an extension of your hands and it is in charge of the most important tasks.

So I highly recommend budgeting the most money for a good rod for inshore fishing.

For fishing artificials, I like Medium to Medium-Heavy rods. And if using live bait, it’ll to go with Medium rods (many people seem to like Medium Light rods for live baiting, but I have not yet found a ML rod that I like).

Best Fishing Reel For Seatrout

In contrast to the rod tasks specified above, a reel essentially does only two things:

• Retrieves line
• Provides drag when fighting a big fish

And although these two tasks are important, the difference in smoothness between a basic reel and a top of the line $400 reel isn’t worth the upgrade for most weekend warrior anglers.

And the drag is of course very important, but that doesn’t even come into play unless the rod handles its tasks effectively.

Plus, seatrout typically do not fight hard at first so they’re easy to pull away from structure when using light line.

And the proper drag setting for a reel is just 20% to 30% of the line strength, so the drag needed when using 10 lb line is just 2 to 3 lbs, which even the most basic reels can provide.

So I now stick with smaller reels (2000 to 2500 series) because they are lighter (more comfortable on a full day of casting) with the added benefit of being more affordable. And although small, they still hold plenty of line and even the inexpensive ones provide plenty of drag.

Best Fishing Line For Seatrout

After I finally was talked into trying out braid after years and years of mono use, I firmly believe that braided line is the way to go for targeting seatrout, redfish, snook, and most other inshore species.

This is because its very thin and non-stretch characteristics combine to allow for much more distance in casting and much better feel of strikes… and these two benefits can be a game-changer for inshore anglers.

But if you’re new to braid or you’re about to make the jump, make sure to know how to spool it properly as well as which knots to tie because adjustments are needed for braid because of its slick surface.

Note: Here are two articles that you should read if you’re not yet comfortable with braid:

• Best Fishing Knot For Braided Line
• How To Spool A Spinning Reel While Saving Time & Money

Although braid is much thinner than mono, some anglers chose their braid based on the similar diameter to mono theory… thinking that using a 30 lb braid for seatrout is ok because its diameter is equal to a 10 lb mono… but that sort of thinking will hinder your catch results.

Instead of comparing line diameters to other alternatives in mono, simply put your focus on getting the smallest diameter line possible while still having enough power to land your target species.

And my best answer to that for inshore fishing has been 10 lb braid… not only for seatrout of all sizes, but I’ve landed 40+ inch snook, redfish, and tarpon on it too so it’s plenty strong (knot contests with 10 lb PowerPro using the FG Knot have surpassed 20 lbs of strength).

Note: If you’re worried that lightweight rods and small reels won’t be able to handle a big trout or redfish that hits, then watch the video below where a ~50 lb tarpon in landed on a 2500 series spinning reel with 10 lb braid:

Best Leader Line For Seatrout

There seems to be a lot of debate between traditional monofilament line users and those who use the newer Fluorocarbon. In case you haven’t heard of fluoro, it’s a type of monofilament line that has roughly the same density as water, and it’s known to be less visible to fish since it decreases the refraction of light.

The debate against fluoro seems to focus on reflection being the core reason why fish can see line or not (vs. refraction) making the refraction benefit of fluoro a non-issue.

However, there seems to be greater consensus that fluorocarbon is better at withstanding abrasions, so many use it for their leader material knowing that their target species have some sharp teeth.

Whichever type of mono you choose (traditional of fluoro), I recommend using 20 lb leader when targeting seatrout because that’s plenty to land even the gators while being small enough to not spook them on days that they’re leader shy.

Best Lures For Seatrout

Seatrout are a favorite species of many inshore anglers because of their propensity to aggressively attack a very large variety of lures.

My personal favorite in terms of fun is to use topwater lures to get them to come up and attack the lure at the surface of the water.

Many great options are available at almost any tackle shop such as spooks, skitterwalks, etc.

But my go-to lure when wanting the maximize the quantity of seatrout that I’ll catch is undoubtedly a soft plastic bait rigged on a light jig head. These jigs can get strikes all day long. And they can be successfully worked to target any specific depth that they seem to be holding in.

As for jig head size, I almost always stick with 1/8th oz and focus in on areas that are in 2 ft to 5 ft of water.

For the soft plastics used, I’ve found plenty of success with from Berkely, Zman, Zoom, DOA, etc. (there are an absolute ton of options).

3. Learn How To Use The Right Gear

The great thing about inshore fishing is that it’s not about having the best boat, kayak, rod, reel, line, lure, fishing clothes, etc… it’s all about knowing how to use what you’ve got.

It’s 100% about knowing how to find areas with good fish and then knowing how to successfully use your tackle to generate strikes.

And many of the best fishing areas are accessible by foot or even the cheapest of all kayaks that can be used to simply paddle across a channel to wade fish a good flat.

Best of all, I’ve found that it’s much better to become an expert at just one lure than to be decent at using a whole tackle shop full, so you can catch a ton of fish with just using one lure and one rod/reel combo.

And if you decide to make the soft plastic bait rigged on a jig head to be your go-to lure, then here’s a video showing some helpful tips on maximizing your results by getting strikes from seatrout that aren’t actively feeding.

Note: If you’re serious about consistently catching seatrout along with other inshore species, then I highly recommend taking advantage of our 30-day risk-free trial of our Inshore Slammer course… click here to learn about this popular online fishing course.

Conclusion

Learning how to catch seatrout can seem like a daunting task. But as you’ll find after focusing on the essentials, it’s truly not as hard as most people think.

And when you combine the art of knowing how to find areas that are prone to have feeding trout along with the art of generating strikes, you’ll find that they days of getting skunked will be a distant memory.

These basic tips should allow you to go out and find the most common sized trout on the grass flats making for many fun memories with friends and family.

If you’re interested in learning the secrets to catching gator trout along with redfish and snook, then I highly recommend giving our online fishing course called the Inshore Slammer Online Fishing Course a shot because we have a 100% Thrilled guarantee behind it…

Meaning that you get a full refund if you’re somehow not 100% thrilled that you took the course.

Click here to learn more about the Inshore Slammer

And if you haven’t seen the 4-part Trout Tutorial video series with Capt. C.A. Richardson, I urge you to click here so you can get all four videos emailed to you for free.

[Important Note]: Of all the inshore fish, spotted seatrout are one of the most fragile of all so it is essential that we take the best possible care of all trout that are going to be released. Click here to see The Complete Guide To Catch, Photo, & Release Fishing.

P.S. – If you have any friends who could use some pointers on consistently catching seatrout, please share this article with them so they can have more fun out on the water.