Woodcock may be one of the greatest game birds to pursue for those interested in becoming a bird hunter or in areas otherwise devoid of wild birds

It comes as no surprise that the popularity of American woodcock hunting has risen with the decline of other upland game species in its flyway. In many areas, the bobwhite quail has become a distant whistle and the ruffed grouse merely a ghost. Woodcock are a migratory bird with flyways that stretch from Canada to Louisiana, east Texas, and even Florida. As a result of their geographic diversity, they have earned a variety of nicknames and cultural nods such as “mud bat” and woodcock gumbo. The entire eastern half of the United States hosts woodcock seasons which are regulated by federal migratory game laws. With a crash course in habitat knowledge, the leap to becoming a woodcock hunter is often easier than with other upland game species. Before you know it, that distinct whistle of rising wings will be a calling card for one of your favorite game species.

Are woodcock the gateway bird of the East?

If you ask me, woodcock represent one of the greatest opportunities for becoming an upland hunter. I may even take it a step further and say that they represent one of the best entry-level pursuits for new hunters all around. They offer exciting wingshooting challenges that can sometimes feel more like video-gaming than hard work. For those of us that drift further into the uplands and find ourselves with a bird dog coming along, we soon discover that woodcock may be a new dog’s (and hunter’s) best friend.

The biggest challenge when making the leap to woodcock hunting is learning about habitat, but this is easily achieved even without advanced degrees in ecology. A few basic concepts will eventually blossom into more elaborate ideas and theories with more time spent in the woods.

Woodcock hunting gear

Woodcock hunting gear can be as complex or as simple as you want, which is one of the beauties of upland hunting. Jeans can suffice if you can stand some thorns, or you could go invest in expensive upland-specific pants—the choice is yours. When it comes to topics like chokes and shot size, there are some specifics that make the most sense for the quarry. When it comes to choosing a hunting dog, should you go down that route, that’s a novel but we can at least get you started.

Woodcock shotguns, chokes, and shot size

Woodcock are not large birds. On the upper end, a female can weigh as much as a half-pound and on the low end, males can weigh as little as five ounces, so they do not require heavy firepower to bring down effectively and ethically.

The nature of the cover that woodcock inhabit and their behavior towards hunters will make for a lot of close shooting opportunities. This scenario calls for open shogun chokes like cylinder, skeet, and improved cylinder.

The most popular lead shot sizes for hunting woodcock are #7.5, #8 and #9. More obscure specialty loads can take you to #10 shot and to spreader loads, which have a wad designed to allow shot to spread out faster. In the realm of steel, #6 and #7 shot are among the most popular if only because smaller steel loads are very uncommon or non-existent. It does not take a lot to kill a woodcock, so it’s worth considering how many pellets you’re willing to pick out of one before eating. My personal choice is #7 steel.

When it comes to choosing a shotgun for woodcock hunting, it is the answer we all know is always true, but never want to hear: use a shotgun that works for you. The most popular of all the shotgun gauges for woodcock is 20 gauge, but the 12 gauge continues as a cultural staple. More obscure gauges like 16 and 28 find good representation in woodcock hunting, while the more experienced may try the challenge of a .410. The action type does not matter as long as it’s a gun that you can shoot straight with confidence. Note that federal migratory game laws require a shotgun plug when hunting woodcock to reduce the gun’s capacity to three shells. Shotguns with shorter barrels are traditionally valued for woodcock hunting due to the stem density and tight swinging area of their preferred habitat, though there’s plenty of debate over a few extra inches and their added value to overall gun balance… but that’s a discussion for another day.

Woodcock hunting clothing

As mentioned, jeans can work just fine in the pursuit of woodcock. There is no need for camouflage, but woodcock hunting certainly calls for blaze orange in the interest of safety. You will need a means to carry shotgun shells (probably 25 depending on your success and shooting consistency), your empty shells, water, birds (hopefully!), and outdoor basics like a compass and even matches and poncho if you wander into remote country. The addition of a dog can increase the list of items to carry quite a bit. Many upland vests and strap vests have been designed over the years by upland junkies, iconic brands, and even some homemade lots. If you get really into it, it’s worth checking out the countless vest options along with a good jacket and upland pants. A pair of leather shooting gloves is nice, but I have survived a solid 25 years in the woods without them.

Boots are the one thing I would not leave open to interpretation. Woodcock tend to live in wet lowland environments as they probe soft soils for earthworms. Some hunters may pitch a solid pair of leather boots, but I will debate it to my grave that rubber boots will always be the best option. Leather boots are great, right up until you step into a wet hole that sends water over the top and into the boot. You can put a fair number of miles in when searching for woodcock, so it’s important to think about comfort and avoiding blisters, too.

Woodcock dogs

Choosing a dog breed (even without a game species involved) is like going to an ice cream stand with an endless number of flavors, not to mention having to choose between cone and cup. You can effectively use a flusher, a pointer, or a dog you rescued at the pound who likes to walk in thick cover. There are some breeds that have even been named because of their particular woodcock hunting ability, like the American and English Cocker Spaniels. But there are also pointing breeds that are just as specialized and well-suited for this type of hunting. I am a pointing dog guy at the end of the day and, just like anything, we all have personal preferences.

If you are considering a dog, think first about what you want out of it. Perhaps join a local hunting dog club like NAVHDA to see some different dogs in action. You should be looking for a dog that has been bred to hunt the region or terrain that encompasses your primary hunting area. Most importantly, once you decide on a breed, carefully vet your breeder. Ask to see their dogs hunt, ask other people for recommendations, and do your homework. It’s an investment of hopefully 12 years or more that will be your shadow each and every day, so it should be taken more seriously than buying a car.

The good thing about hunting the American woodcock with dogs is that the birds generally like to hold tight and not walk. The recent influx of woodcock hunters throughout the flyway certainly seems to be accelerating some walking and running behavior, but still nothing compared to the iconic ruffed grouse, notorious scaled quail, or the classic ring-necked pheasant. Ultimately, for the novice dog handler, woodcock can and will become addicting for both the hunter and the dog.

Getting to know the American woodcock

Woodcock are a migratory bird, so the kinds of places in which they live, nest, and stop over can vary by geographic location. They have two primary flyways: the central, which is essentially from Ontario to northern Louisiana, and the eastern, which is from Quebec to northern Florida. However, we must remember these are man-made lines and recent studies by the United States Fish and Wildlife Service and the American Woodcock Society have shown birds crossing over these flyway systems. The northern reaches of the woodcock flyway are what is considered their “resident” location, which typically includes Canada, upper Midwest states, and parts of New England. The southern areas like Louisiana and east Texas are considered their wintering grounds and are generally dictated by whether the soil freezes, which affects their ability to probe for worms. Any place in between the resident and wintering grounds is often referred to as stop-over states.

Getting to know woodcock cover

Woodcock like young vegetation with a high stem density, or places considered early succession growth in forests. Add in upland shrubbery or alders and if you have trouble walking through it, you can be sure a woodcock would love it. They also need a place to land to get into the cover. I have found that thick areas adjacent to fields, log landings, trails, and meadows tend to hold birds because they have ample openings to set down. Their food source is primarily earthworms, which has more to do with soil type than anything else. If you are ready for advanced theories on that, you can read “Targeting Worms with GIS Soil Data to find Woodcock Habitat.”

To simplify all this, noting that this is not fine science, this is where I would begin:

1. There needs to be soft and moist soil
2. The brush density needs to be such that it’s hard to walk through and swinging a shotgun seems challenging
3. Check for a nearby opening for landing and access
4. When all else fails, try hunting along rivers and waterways with dense shrubbery immediately nearby

In recent years I have found woodcock in soft wood (conifer) covers, which is something that trends more commonly as they head south in stop-over states. While I do not know the exact science, my guess is that it’s pretty easy for those short legs to walk on those open floors while still providing cover from predators above.

For the best understanding of woodcock cover, I recommend learning from a biologist and not a novice woodcock hunter like myself. Read: How to Identify American Woodcock Habitat

The nature of migrating birds

The fall woodcock migration is an exciting and sometimes frustrating part of woodcock hunting. If you catch the bug like I did, you may find yourself following the migration south, hunting multiple states and trying to extend your season. When the cold weather comes in, so do the “flights” of woodcocks arriving from north of your location to stop over during the migration to wintering grounds. It’s a tricky thing and many argue the science behind what makes the birds pick up and move, but you will certainly notice that one day a cover can have birds everywhere and the next it will only be a faint memory with remnants of their signs like woodcock splash.

READ: The Unrealized Opportunity of Woodcock Hunting in the Central Midwest

This fleeting presence is something to love, but it is also a warning sign that the birds will eventually be gone. States with no resident populations will find it more inconsistent, so you should not easily give up on a particular spot because things can change from day to day.

OUTDOOR LIFE: How to Hunt the Mysterious Woodcock Migration

Shooting woodcock

There are a couple schools of thought when it comes to wingshooting woodcock. First, it’s important to understand how woodcock tend to flush. The nickname “mud bat” refers to their characteristic rise like that of a bat. Their flight is often like a fluttering, unpredictable dance or zig-zag to the top of the canopy. Once past that, they tend to take off like rocket ships or, as the folks from Modern Wild would say, like “timber rockets.” There are plenty of exceptions to those rules, of course. Sometimes they will liftoff in a deliberate and direct pattern, which some would argue is a tell-tale sign of a resident bird knowing how to escape. Weak flyers are often considered tired flight birds, but neither assumption has been scientifically proven.

One of the greatest things about woodcock—especially if you are hunting with a dog—is that they tend to hold tight, meaning you must come close to stepping on them in order to get them to fly. This is what makes them great for young dogs in training, but can make them a little more challenging to find if hunting without a dog (more on that later).

The most reputable school of thought on shooting technique is to let the bird get away from you a bit before shooting. This allows for their trajectory to stabilize and for your shot to open up to a larger pattern. I usually have an issue containing myself, so as soon as that whistle comes up and the bird is a safe height off the ground, I let the shots fly. You can really approach this however you like, just get some shot safely in the sky when the bird gets up. To be most effective at this, you have to understand one of the more difficult mental barriers in shooting woodcock: ignoring the trees.

I grew up shooting woodcock from as early as I can remember and never once thought about a tree as my barrel swung through thick cover. But for those that did not get programmed at a young age, this can be a hurdle. If the trees and branches get into your head, you will not swing properly and you will always be at a disadvantage when shooting woodcock.

READ: Ignore the Trees when Grouse and Woodcock Shooting for Better Results

Beyond that, understanding the basic theories of effective shotgun shooting, such as the Churchill method, can greatly increase your odds in any wingshooting situation. Practice your gun mount repeatedly, consider the fit of your shotgun, and try patterning your gun to understand the shot pattern before hitting the woods.

Hunting woodcock without a dog

There are undoubtedly people reading this right now and yelling, “Blasphemy!” at their screen. But yes, woodcock can be hunted without a bird dog. Although I started off in my early years hunting over my father’s Brittany, I continued hunting later in life without a dog. Because woodcock hold tight, you will have to carefully grid an area when walking to make sure you have applied ample pressure to get them to flush. They are highly camouflaged, so without a dog’s nose giving you an indication of where they sit, you are unlikely to see them until they take off.

Recovery of shot woodcock without the aid of a dog can be particularly challenging because their camouflaged coloring blends in perfectly with the forest floor. Since they are small and live in dense cover, they can often get hung up on things off the ground, which only adds to the complexity of locating them after the shot. As a conservationist, you owe it to the bird to make a serious effort with or without a dog to recover game in any circumstances.

READ: How to Recover More Birds without a Dog

The controversy and ethics of pass shooting woodcock

Pass shooting woodcock is a technique rarely spoken of and highly controversial. Many consider it to be “unsporting.” I bring it up because you will inevitably discover it and should carefully consider the ethics of such a method. Although legal in some areas, it’s important to remember that legality does not always equate to sustainable practice. As hunters, we should think carefully about the long-term implications of pass shooting woodcock and the impact on future woodcock populations.

Pass shooting woodcock is a method that takes advantage of the final, legal shooting time to shoot woodcock as they move through open areas like fields to move to feeding areas. I often hear stories of early morning waterfowl hunters shooting woodcock at first light, as well. By setting up in a field adjacent to woodcock habitat and waiting for these final or first moments, a hunter will encounter fast-flying birds. These birds are a challenge to hit because they are often at top speeds. At a minimum, I would recommend steering clear of this method and finding a downed woodcock that sailed a long distance is not easy and could certainly start to enter the realm of the unethical. As a responsible culture, we need to make the hard choices even when laws permit it. We should not rely on legislation to dictate our morals and our commitment to sustainable practices.

Eating American woodcock

Although woodcock can be a culinary challenge at first attempt, with a bit of knowledge they can make amazing table fare. A few basic rules can accelerate that process. As renowned upland game chef Hank Shaw would point out, they pluck easily. Aging woodcock is a common practice, accomplished by tossing them in a fridge for a few days with the guts still in and the feathers still on. After a few days, they are better tasting and easier to pluck.

Woodcock cook faster than chicken and must either be cooked to medium rare or for a very long time to allow the meat to fall off the bones. Anything in between will cause you to think that woodcock aren’t worth eating, which is simply untrue. They are “earthy” in flavor and respond well when paired with mushrooms or sweeter things from where they live, such as apples and cranberries. Sure, you can slap bacon on them and of course it will taste great (and like bacon), but they are very good when prepared in other manners as well.

The legs are often thrown away, but it’s worth pointing out that this light, tender meat is arguably the best part of the bird. They can either be cooked as part of a whole bird or saved for a day of woodcock poppers or buffalo legs. Woodcock have become the most common bird prepared in my kitchen.

Woodcock conservation

In speaking of hunting woodcock, we must take note of their current state and their future. Since the populations were first recorded in the 1970s, woodcock have suffered a 1% decline every year. Habitat loss is the largest culprit in this decline, because woodcock often migrate through areas that are heavily developed without consideration for their needs. Recent studies with the Eastern Woodcock Migration Research Cooperative (EWMRC), in partnership with the American Woodcock Society, are hoping to identify areas that are in greatest need of habitat for stop-over cover.

While the populations are considered stable and safe to hunt, and given the migratory nature of the bird, you can feel safe and confident in hunting them in any state that has a legal season. They are currently sustainable and will hopefully begin to rebound if we all do our part to follow the science and support efforts to create more habitat.

Recent mumbling in the scientific community has theorized, but not yet proven, that climate change may be shifting the woodcock range and affecting some breeding behavior. This is worth following as we learn more and consider how this will affect the future of hunting this bird.

Woodcock hunting media content

Woodcock has been written about since medieval times when the Eurasian woodcock would be cooked in court. Eventually hunting practices evolved with dogs to bring them to market. In the Americas, they are known for the poetic culture that surrounds them, which has been explored by many of the upland literature greats. If you are an audio lover, I would suggest heading over to Audible and downloading Woodcock Shooting by Edmund Davis. This 1908 classic is unusual, poetic, and informative. Furthermore, you can check out frequent episodes of the Project Upland Podcast where host Nick Larson’s love for the woodcock and culture is hard to hide.

American woodcock hold the distinct position as the most-covered bird in Project Upland Original Films. Much of that simply reflects the opportunity that surrounded me when my passion brought me along this path. From our first year of films with the Ruffed Grouse Society to the viral film “First Season,” digging through our film library will give many options to get inspired in the poetic vibes of woodcock culture. If seeing drone footage of woodcock points and shooting situations sounds intriguing, check out the film “Legacy.” And for those as nerdy as it comes, you can find our latest film on the topic, “Woodcock Banding,” which explores the unusual ritual of using dogs in the spring to band woodcock with biologist Bailey Petersen.

Project Upland has a long list of woodcock hunting articles that can be found here.

We will continue to evolve this article as we create more content around woodcock hunting in North America, so be sure to check back in. And in the true crowdsource mentality of the Project Upland community, we always like to hear about what questions and ideas you have around the topic. Comment below, email us, or hop onto the Facebook community page to share your thoughts. We hope this article helps with woodcock hunting this season.

The 7mm PRC is HERE! In this story I’ll give a complete overview of this new cartridge including specs, a comparison with other cartridges in its class, talk 7mm PRC ballistics, and give you a preview of much more 7mm PRC content that’s coming!

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7mm PRC Quick Facts

7mm PRC is its own cartridge, different from the 6.5 PRC and 300 PRC fundamentally. Here’s some quick specs:

7mm PRC SAAMI Specs

On June 28, 2022 SAAMI officially released the specifications for the 7mm PRC which you can download HERE.

With a limit of 65,000 PSI, and compatibility with 300 Win Mag and similar rifle platforms (including magazines), the 7mm PRC has great power and flexibility. If you have a long action magnum rifle (with 0.532″ bolt face), upgrading to 7mm PRC is likely just a barrel change!

7mm PRC Bergara / Boyds Build Preview

Rifle #1 for this project is built on the following:

1. Bergara Premier Action (LA, bare)
2. Bartlein 7mm 5R Barrel Blank 1:8
3. Boyd’s Agility stock
4. Hawkins Precision Hunter DBM / Hawkins Hunter Magazine
5. RITON X7 Conquer 3-24x50mm Scope (MOA)

Plus, a full Cerakote job on the barreled action. There will be a dedicated story on this build!

7mm PRC Bat / MDT “Freedom Rifle” Build Preview

Rifle #2 for this project is a spare-no-expenses top-shelf build focused on long-range target shooting. Here’s what makes up this build:

• Bat HR Action (LA)
• Bartlein 7mm 5R Barrel Blank 1:8
• MDT ESS Chassis (With FDE + engraving on barreled action)
• Blackhound Emerge 4-32x56mm Scope (MIL)

Like with the Bergara build, there will also be a dedicated story for this Bat/MDT build!

Quick Look: All Three PRCs Compared

The “Three PRCs” share a lot in common. All three of these magnums are serious long-range cartridges with 0.532″ case rims, 30° shoulders, and optimized around long, slender high-BC bullets. 6.5 PRC can fit in a short action, where 7mm PRC and 300 PRC both require a long action.

7mm PRC Ballistics

I was surprised at how well the 7mm PRC performs with ballistics!

PRC Reference Ballistics

For ballistic comparisons, the following were used as a baseline: (taken from SAAMI references)

• 6.5 PRC: 147gr @ 2,900 fps
• 7mm PRC: 180gr @ 3,000 fps
• 300 PRC: 225gr @ 2,800 fps

Drop Comparison: The Three PRCs

Can the 7mm PRC beat both the 6.5 PRC and the 300 PRC?

The answer is YES. Here’s the data for the above chart:

This was a bit of a surprise for me to find out!

Drop Comparison: 7mm PRC -vs- Popular Hunting Cartridges

While this is NOT an “Apples to Apples” comparison, I thought it would be interesting to compare 7mm PRC with other popular hunting cartridges for drop to 1,000 yards. Check this out:

All drop chart calculations were based on Hornady ELD-X bullets, using typical twist rate for guidance on bullet weight: (based on 100 yard zero)

You can see how well 7mm PRC does in terms of having a flat trajectory! Also, per our recent story, we showed that 30-06 and the 6.5 Creedmoor can share nearly the same trajectory!

Initial Testing Results

For testing, I only had two boxes of factory ammunition to start break-in on two rifles! One box of Hornady 7mm PRC 180 grain ELD-M Match ammunition, and one box of Hornady 7mm PRC 175 grain ELD-X Precision Hunter ammunition. So I kept shooting to a minimum as I wanted to keep some cartridges on hand for future reference. The initial results were GREAT.

First Break-In Group on Paper: Bat/MDT 7mm PRC “Freedom Rifle”

First Break-In Group on Paper: Bergara/Boyd’s Custom Rifle

Velocity Data Summary, All Testing

The following is a summary of velocity data collected during break-in (all in feet per second):

Here we see approximately 150 fps difference between the 22″ barreled Bergara, and the 28″ barreled Bat custom. Further data will be included in later stories when more shots can be fired (above data utilized 3-shot strings due to limited ammunition being available). This is some impressive performance!

Conclusion

The 7mm PRC brings a very well rounded new option to the table for both match/long-range shooters and for hunters as well. With a simplified beltless case, optimized case geometry, and Hornady’s industry-wide efforts bring this cartridge to market, don’t be surprised to see the 7mm PRC become one of the more popular new cartridges in the long-action class. I’m looking forward to bringing you many more stories featuring this great new cartridge.

Get the Gear

Bat HR Rifle Action

MDT ESS Chassis

Bergara Premier Long Action at Brownells

Boyd’s Agility Stock

Bartlein Barrels

Additional product links will be provided when available!

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Thanks, Gavin

The Ruger Mini-14 has proven its ruggedness since it started riding around in pickups in 1974, but getting it to consistently shoot neat little groups at 100 yards has often been an exercise in frustration. Accuracy—frankly not the Mini-14’s strongpoint—has generally taken a backseat to its simple and reliable operation. With competitive action-shooting events on the rise, Ruger decided to address this issue, introducing the Mini-14 Target Rifle accompanied by claims of minute-of-angle performance.

Appropriate for a Mini-14 derivative, the Target Rifle keeps the fixed-piston gas system and rotary bolt with dual locking lugs borrowed from the M1 Garand and the line’s military inspiration, the M14. The investment-cast receiver and L-shaped charging handle have a matte-stainless finish. Scope bases integral to the receiver—a feature that debuted on the Mini-14 Ranch Rifle during the early 1980s—also fittingly appear on the Target Rifle. Ruger includes high, 1-inch rings for mounting an optic, which is mandatory since the receiver and barrel are devoid of iron sights. Other features manifest in the Mini-14 family and carried on with the Target Rifle are a Garand-style safety, stout magazine release lever and ventilated, fiberglass handguard that covers the barrel from receiver to gas block.

The similarities end there.Ruger started its Mini-14 makeover by going straight for what most often is the deciding factor in a rifle’s accuracy—the barrel. Though the lightweight, 18 1⁄2-inch barrel of the standard Ranch Rifle makes for quick and easy handling, it has many times bore the brunt of the criticism stemming from inaccuracy. The Target Rifle, in contrast, has a heavy, hammer-forged, stainless steel barrel that is .78 inch in diameter where it emerges from the gas block, with an additional 3 1⁄2 inches of length. Its six-groove rifling has a 1:9 RH twist to stabilize all but the heaviest .224-caliber match bullets.

Prominent on the barrel is a 41⁄2-inch-long, harmonic-dampening weight. The 3⁄16-inch-thick sleeve slips over the barrel, and four Allen-head screws keep it in place. A series of helical grooves on the barrel’s surface allow the position of the harmonic dampener to be changed by turning it after loosening the attachment screws. Rotating the harmonic dampener clockwise moves it toward the receiver, while turning it counterclockwise shifts it toward the muzzle.

Barrel harmonics, or the vibration of the barrel during firing, can greatly affect point of impact and group size. Functions that occur within a rifle such as the firing pin striking the primer, the ignition of the propellant, the expansion of the propellant gases and the bullet’s contact with the rifling as it travels through the bore all produce a number of vibrations that are ultimately transmitted to the barrel. These vibrations cause the barrel to move in an arc, even before the bullet has exited the bore. If these vibrations were absolutely consistent, there would be a lot of rifles shooting one-hole groups. However, their magnitude and duration vary from shot to shot, and five bullets may leave the bore when the muzzle is at five different points on the vibration-induced arc. In part, this is why even a very tight group will still somewhat resemble a triangle.

One way to control vibration is to add weight to the barrel, which soaks up the impulses. The heavy barrel on the Target Rifle works together with the harmonic dampener to reduce the amplitude of the arc, making bullet exit, and therefore point of impact downrange, more consistent. Different loads, of course, can produce different amounts of vibration, and the ability to adjust the harmonic dampener allows the shooter to tune the barrel to obtain the best accuracy with any given ammunition.

A beefy barrel does not a target rifle make, so Ruger continued overhauling the Mini-14 by giving it a stock eminently suited for shooting from the bench. The thumbhole buttstock has a large, triangular-shaped cutout just behind the pistol grip that not only lets the thumb encircle the pistol grip, but also provides a stable shelf on which its fleshy base can rest. Along with the slight swell to the pistol grip, the design promotes a steady, repeatable hold. The stock’s high, slim comb rises slightly at the heel and digs into the cheek for a tight weld. So it will nestle solidly into a sandbag, the toe is rather thin and parallels the comb for 3 inches. The stock’s lower line then curves dramatically upward before running forward to the pistol grip, forming a hook for the non-shooting hand to press against and keep the rifle firmly settled on the bench. Three removable, black plastic spacers just forward of the rubber buttpad let shooters adjust the stock’s length of pull from 14 to 15 1⁄2 inches in 1⁄2-inch increments. In keeping with the theme of the Target Rifle, Ruger gave the fore-end a 2-inch-wide flat spot to make it easy to rest the gun on sandbags or hold in an offhand position. The stock is constructed of a gray laminate that complements both the stainless finish of the rifle’s metal and the black handguard.

A Mini-14 that will shoot minute of angle? I, too, was skeptical. But to give the Target Rifle a fair chance, I topped it with a Sightron SII Big Sky 4.5-14×42 mm scope and waited for a calm day to test Ruger’s claim. I picked the 55-grain soft-point load from Black Hills to start. The first several groups from the 100-yard line were around 2 1⁄2 inches—pretty much what I expected from a Mini-14 and certainly nothing to write home about. Then I began playing with the position of the harmonic dampener and shot as many holes in the criticisms of this autoloader’s accuracy as I did targets. With this particular load, the rifle liked the forward end of the harmonic dampener to be positioned about 3⁄4 inch behind the muzzle. Thusly tuned, it produced five, five-shot groups that averaged 1.03 inches. Pretty dang close, and two of those groups measured inside the minute-of-angle standard. I tried several other loads, including some with match bullets weighing between 69 and 75 grains, but none of them delivered the accuracy of my first pick. The runner-up was the 50-grain Winchester Supreme Ballistic Silvertip load, which averaged 1.10 inches after 25 shots. Perhaps with a little more tweaking I could find the harmonic dampener’s sweet spot with these other loads and shave a little from their group sizes.

True to the nature of the Mini-14, I experienced no failures to feed or fire during testing, and that was during approximately 400 rounds of 12 ammunition types over three days. No complaints there, but I did have an issue with the Target Rifle’s trigger. At 5 1⁄2 pounds of pull weight, it’s quite heavy for a rifle intended for target work, and I had to squeeze through a lengthy amount of creep. Nonetheless, I learned to live with it, and from the factory the Target Rifle performed as advertised.

The Mini-14 is rarely described as being pinpoint accurate, and in fact, until now it was never made to be. With some modifications, Ruger has turned this ubiquitous truck gun into a rifle ideally suited for chewing out bullseyes. I’d call the Mini-14 Target Rifle accurate any day.

When we talk about ammunition for the AR-15, the most likely mentions include .223 Remington, 5.56×45 NATO, and .300 Blackout. Why? Because they are the most popular and readily available rounds available for sporting rifles today. But they are not the only rounds available.

Have you heard of the debate between 6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor? Firearms enthusiasts everywhere can argue for hours about the two rounds and their ideal uses, kinetic energy ratings, and price per round comparisons.

Did you know that in Europe, the 6.5 caliber is immensely popular? Both hunters and target shooters adopted the round over a century ago. Here in North America, we stuck to what we know. That is changing, though. Both of the 6.5 caliber rounds we discuss here are making waves.

The History Behind 6.5 Grendel Vs. 6.5 Creedmoor

6.5 Grendel next to a standard 5.56mm round

Both the 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor were designed with unique goals in mind. Like most other AR-15 ammunition, though, 6.5 Grendel stems from a desire to replace the iconic .223 Remington, while 6.5 Creedmoor hails from the .308 Winchester round.

6.5 Grendel History

During the Vietnam War, the M-16 and 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge saw extensive military use. That use left a lot to be desired, though. Soldiers in the field reported inaccurate ammunition and regular weapon jams. A better platform and caliber were necessary. Enter the 6.5mm caliber.

Many companies sought to improve upon the .223 Remington and 5.56x45mm rounds. Thus Bill Alexander, the creator of the .50 Beowulf, set out to develop the 6.5 Grendel by modifying a 6.5mm PPC case and succeeded. The 6.5 Grendel is significantly more potent than the original .223 Remington while still running in an AR-15.

The 6.5mm Grendel was first publicly announced in 2003 at a Blackwater Training Facility in North Carolina where it displayed its ability to pack a bigger punch than the 5.56 NATO round – one could consider it as the round that basically became the US version of the 7.62×39.

6.5 Creedmoor History

On the other hand, 6.5 Creedmoor was developed largely because of the competitive shooting scene. Dave Emary and Dennis DeMille, of Hornady Manufacturing, worked on the cartridge in the early 2000s. Their goal was simple: create a round for high-power rifle competition shooting, specifically with a high ballistic coefficient, that was more shootable than a .308.

The initial design drew inspirations from the .260 Remington, a wildcat cartridge. Again, they saw success. The 6.5 Creedmoor was as accurate as the .308 Winchester but delivered less recoil, had less wind drift and a relatively flat trajectory. In fact, most people in the precision community now consider .308 to be a completely dead round for the sport, with no reason to choose it over the 6.5 Creedmoor.In terms of precision shooting rounds, the 6.5 Creedmoor became one of the most hotly discussed cartridges of the 21st century. Originally introduced in 2007, today, almost every barrel manufacturer in the U.S. has tooled up to accommodate for the hotly demanded barrel chambered in 6.5 CM.

6.5 Grendel vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Cartridge Sizes

As 6.5 Creedmoor was based on the .308 cartridge, it’s naturally a larger round. The 6.5 Grendel features a rim diameter of .441”, while the 6.5 Creedmoor is .473”. The larger size means the Creedmoor round achieves a higher maximum average pressure, because it has a larger case capacity for more powder.

6.5 Grendel Specs

• Bullet Diameter: .264”
• Case Length: 1.52”
• Maximum Overall Length: 2.26”
• Rim Diameter: .441”
• Case Capacity: 35gr H2O
• Max Pressure: 52,0000 psi

6.5 Creedmoor Specs

• Bullet Diameter: .264”
• Case Length: 1.92”
• Maximum Overall Length: 2.825”
• Rim Diameter: .473”
• Case Capacity: 52.5gr H2O
• Max Pressure: 62,000 psi

6.5 Creedmoor vs 6.5 Grendel Ballistics

The sheer size difference between the two rounds means a significant gap in ballistics. That being said, both rounds were built with unique purposes in mind. One was meant to replace .223 Remington, while the other was meant to improve upon .308 Winchester—two distinct rounds with massive differences of their own.

6.5 Grendel Ballistics

• Muzzle Velocity: 2,580 fps, 1,818 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 100 Yards: +2.2”, 1,581 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 200 Yards: 0”, 1,376 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 300 Yards: -9.2”, 1,189 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 400 Yards: -26.4”, 1,023 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 500 Yards: -52.8”, 876 ft-lb.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

• Muzzle Velocity: 2,925 fps, 2,280 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 100 Yards: +1.6”, 1,968 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 200 Yards: 0”, 1,693 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 300 Yards: -7.1”, 1,448 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 400 Yards: -20.6”, 1,232 ft-lb.
• Trajectory – 500 Yards: -41.6”, 1,024 ft-lb.

6.5 Grendel vs 6.5 Creedmoor Applications

As you can see 6.5 Grendel and 6.5 Creedmoor are fantastic rounds that successfully improve upon their respective parent rounds. But like all other rounds, each one has its own optimal application.

Why Choose 6.5 Grendel

In terms of intended applications, the 6.5 Grendel is best if you only expect to be using it in a rifle meant for home defense or any kind of target shooting on a range. It is also a very viable caliber for hunting white tail deer and varmints. If you’re looking for a caliber that’s somewhere in between the 5.56mm NATO and 7.62mm NATO rounds, this is it.

Why Choose 6.5 Creedmoor

To be clear, both calibers are excellent for hunting small game such as feral hogs, whitetail deer, and fallow deer at short- to medium-range distances. However, if you wish to hunt larger game, bigger than a deer, then 6.5 Creedmoor is the better choice. In Europe, hunters will take down moose with 6.5 Swede, which is fairly close to the 6.5CM round. Even in competitive shooting, 6.5 Creedmoor is the clear winner when compared against the 6.5 Grendel for its superior bullet velocity and (less bullet drop) flatter flight path.

The doe bleat call (or doe grunt) can be a very effective tool in a hunter’s arsenal. Using a doe call during the pre-rut/ rut period can bring in dominant bucks that may ignore a buck grunt. After all, they are looking for does to breed, the fights are secondary. These types of calls can also be especially effective during the later or repeat rut periods when does who “missed” come back into estrus. Just remember, having a buck hear your bleat is one thing; it is another to successfully get him into range for a bow or crossbow.

Doe vocalizations during hunting should be used sparingly. Perhaps make a few doe bleats/ grunts every 30 minutes. Don’t overdue it. When was the last time you heard does making all kinds of noise in the woods? Too much calling is an unnatural presentation. To perfect your calling, look online for videos of both people demonstrating and of the deer vocalizing themselves. You will be a pro in no time.

Once you have the calling down, are you good to go? Not really because you can do better. Generally speaking, when bucks hear another deer vocalize, they don’t come straight in. Instead they tend to circle down wind and investigate the scene with their noses. That is where a good synthetic scent comes in. If you want that smart old buck to believe the doe is there, let him smell her when he is checking it out. A great scent for this early in the season would be Lucky 7 Nanny Doe, one of our Confidence Scents. Now the buck will not only believe he heard a doe make a bleat or grunt, we will smell an older doe, a breeding age doe. He will relax, believe it is real and hopefully pass right by your stand on his way in. If it is the rut, a scent Like Lucky 7 Synthescent Doe In Heat PLUS can be extremely effective. If the rut is in full swing, one of our doe estrus/ buck scent combinations can really rile those big boys up.

Often time, hunters use decoys while calling. Why not add an enticing sight picture with a doe decoy? If you do, removing the odor from it is important and then you’d want to make it smell right. Lucky 7 Decoy Dope is just the scent to accomplish that. If your decoy smells like “nothing”, bucks get very suspicious. If they see her, they want to smell her.

If you haven’t used doe vocalizations before, perhaps it is time to pick up this terrific tactic. It can be very enjoyable to “talk” to the animals you hunt and adds a satisfying new dimension to deer hunting. Nelson Creek Outdoors also carries a couple effective yet affordable deer calls. It is convenient to pick one up at the same time as you order your scents for the year. One of my fondest memories is using one of our grunt calls to bring in a 170 class 10 point buck and then watch as a larger bodied 8 point charged in and kicked his tail. I didn’t get either deer as it happened fast and just out of bow range, but it is still among my most exciting deer hunt memories.

Doe Bleat Call

UPDATED 08 SEPTEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

Using the right fishing rig is essential for catching trout successfully, and knowing which rig to use for what conditions can make the difference between catching your limit or getting skunked.

There’s a perfect trout rig for almost every situation, and that’s why it’s so important to master rigging for trout, as this will allow you to choose exactly the right fishing rig for your purposes.

In this article I’ll cover the 9 best trout rigs, and will discuss what each of them is ideally suited for.

How to rig for trout

In order to rig for trout, you need to choose one of three basic types of rigs:

• Rigs that present your bait suspended underneath a bobber or float
• Rigs that present your bait close to the bottom with a weight
• Rigs that enable you to cast and actively retrieve an artificial lure

While these three types of fishing rigs cover almost all trout fishing applications, they come in a variety of different shapes and forms, each of which is best suited for slightly different trout fishing setups.

So if you’re a beginner, chances are that you’re confused about all the different options of rigging for trout.

However, the great thing is that you can get started with just two or three of the most versatile trout fishing rigs, and then add more specialized rigs once you know what kind or rig works best for your pond, lake or stream.

Now let’s look at each of the most important trout rigs in more detail, to help you choose the best rig for your purposes.

And in case you’re also looking for the best bait to use with your trout fishing rigs, check out our article on what is the best bait for trout?

Trout fishing rigs with bobbers

Bobber rigs are among the most effective trout fishing set ups, and work especially well when fishing in shallow ponds and streams, as well as in shallow bays of bigger lakes, or basically in any situation where trout are active close to the water surface.

Now let’s look at the two main types of bobber rigging for trout.

Trout rig with fixed bobber

This is one of the simplest trout rigs, and consists of a fixed bobber attached to the line, as well as a hook and sinker to weigh down the baited hook in the water.

The depth at which the bait is presented depends on the distance between the hook and the bobber.

How to tie it: Attach the bobber to the line, and then tie the end of the line to the hook. The most common type of bobber used for this fishing rig is a round red and white bobber, but you may want to choose a pencil shaped bobber instead, which offers less resistance when a trout takes the bait.

If you’re not sure how to rig a fishing line for trout, take a look at our article on what fishing line should you use for trout?

When to use it: This is a great fishing rig to use in shallow ponds and streams, as well as any situations where trout are feeding close to the surface. It’s very easy to set up and a lot of fun to fish with, which makes it an excellent choice for beginners who want to try trout fishing in a stocked pond.

But keep in mind that the maximum depth you can fish this rig corresponds to the length of your rod, since you can’t cast the fishing rig effectively if you set the bobber higher than that.

How to use it: The best way to use this fishing rig is to cast it out with a baited hook and wait for a trout to bite, which is indicated by the bobber being pulled down underwater.

When you see this, set the hook immediately, so the trout doesn’t have a chance to spit out the hook when it feels resistance on the line. This is the best setup for trout fishing in streams and rivers, where you can use it to drift your bait into the best locations that hold trout.

Slip bobber rig

This is another commonly used trout rig, and should be part of every trout angler’s arsenal of fishing tools.

Using a slip bobber rig (aka sliding float rig) makes the fishing rig more compact and easier to cast with than a fixed bobber rig.

How to tie it: Tie a bobber stop on to your main line, and then thread the line through your bobber and tie the line to the hook. The best hook size depends on your bait, but generally lies somewhere between size 8 and 14.

If you’re unsure about choosing the right hook size for different trout line setups, take a look at our article on the best size hook for trout.

Attach a split shot or two to the line between the bobber and the hook. This stops the bobber from sliding down onto the hook and it also weighs down your bait, helping to present it at the right depth to the trout .

Keep in mind that some baits (like powerbait) float in the water, and you may need to add extra split shots to make the baited hook sink down to the desired depth.

When to use it: The slip bobber rig is the best choice when trout are feeding in midwater, and if you can’t reach them with either a fixed bobber rig or with a bottom fishing rig.

The great thing is that you can fish practically any depth with this fishing rig, as you just need to move the bobber stop up the line to whatever depth you want to set the bobber.

How to use it: Estimate the depth of the water you’ll be fishing in, and set the bobber stop to that depth. Then bait your hook and cast out your fishing rig to the desired spot and wait for a fish to grab the bait.

Bottom fishing rigs

Bottom fishing rigs are often the best choice when trout are found in deeper water, as they tend to feed close to the bottom most of the time. There are several options available to you in this rig category, so now let’s look at the most important ones.

Slip sinker rig

This is the simplest bottom fishing rig around, and is the one most often taught to novice trout anglers. This rig has been in use for more than a century, and continues to perform well in many situations where trout hold close to the bottom.

How to tie it: Thread a 1/8 or 1/4 oz sliding sinker (either a bullet or egg sinker) onto your main line, and then tie the line to a barrel swivel. Attach a leader to the other end of the swivel, and tie your hook to the leader. Choose the type and size of hook depending on the type of bait you want to use.

When to use it: This rig is most commonly used in lakes where trout hold in water deeper than 5 or 10 feet. It’s a great rig to use from shore, since you can cast it relatively far, and cover a lot of water with it.

It’s important to use this fishing rig with floating bait, since you don’t want your baited hook lying on the bottom where trout won’t notice it. You can use it with either powerbait (which is designed to float), or worms injected with air to make them float.

How to use it: This is the most common bait rig used for trout fishing setups, and is usually fished passively. Most anglers cast it out to a promising fishing spot and then wait for a bite. If you do this, make sure to check your rig regularly to see if the bait is still on the hook, and also test different fishing spots.

Carolina rig

This rig is very similar to the slip sinker rig, but unlike the slip sinker setup it is often fished actively with artificial lures instead of passively with bait, which is why we list the two options separately.

How to tie it: Start by threading your main line through a 1/8 to 1/4 oz sliding sinker. Next, thread the line through a plastic bead, and then tie it to a swivel or snap swivel. The bead stops the weight from banging into the swivel during retrieval, which protects the knot on the swivel from being damaged while fishing, and this is more important if you want to fish it actively.

When to use it: You can use this option anywhere where trout are feeding close to the bottom. It’s a great option to use when fishing in lakes, reservoirs and ponds, but you can also use it in rivers.

How to use it: While you can also use this fishing rig with a baited hook and fish it passively until a trout comes by and bites, the strength of the Carolina trout fishing rig lies in fishing it actively with a floating lure.

You can use a floating jig head with plastic lures such as trout magnets or power worms. After casting out, let your rig sink to the bottom, and then slowly retrieve it with a jigging movement.

Split shot rig

This is basically a finesse version of the Carolina rig, and instead of a sliding sinker it uses one or more split shots attached to the line. Since trout can be finicky at times (especially when fishing in heavily fished waters), it’s always great to have some finesse techniques up your sleeve.

How to tie it: Tie your main line to a swivel or snap swivel, and then add one or two split shots to the line right above the swivel. Next, tie a 1 to 2 foot long fluorocarbon leader to the swivel, and then tie your hook to the other end of the leader.

Next, thread a soft plastic lure onto the hook, and your trout fishing line setup is good to go.

In most cases you’ll want to use a floating lure on this rig, which will result in presenting your lure right in the strike zone every time the split shots sink to the bottom.

When to use it: This rig is a great option if you notice that the trout are finicky. This is most often the case in heavily fished waters, and especially in clear water it can be advantageous to use a finesse rig that’s harder for the fish to spot. It’s also a great trout fishing set up for small creeks.

How to use it: Cast the rig out and let it sink to the bottom. Then slowly retrieve it with jigging movements of your rod tip. The main disadvantage of the split shot rig is that it can’t be cast as far as the Carolina rig, since it comes with less weight on the line. Because of this, it’s better to use it when fishing in smaller lakes, rivers and streams.

Drop shot rig

This is another great trout fishing rig setup for bottom fishing, and one of it’s key advantages is that it allows you to place your lure in the strike zone and keep it there for a long time. Similar to the two previous rigs, it’s most often used with soft plastic lures.

How to tie it: Start by tying your main line to a 4 or 5 foot fluorocarbon leader with a double uni knot, and then tie the end of your trout leader to a 1/8 to 1/4 drop shot weight.

Next, take a bait hook and place it facing upwards, and form a loop with the leader line about 1 foot above the drop shot weight.

Pass the loop through the eye of the hook from below, and then tie an overhand knot with the loop. Finally, pass the hook through the loop, wet the line, pull tight, and you’re ready to start fishing.

When to use it: While the drop shot rig was originally developed for vertical fishing in deep water from a boat, most bass anglers can tell you that this rig works equally well for fishing from shore, and can even be fished in very shallow water. It’s a great trout fishing setup for beginners fishing in lakes and rivers.

How to use it: Cast the rig out and slowly retrieve it by hopping the weight along the bottom, while jigging the lure up and down. If you figure out where the strike zone is, you can keep the drop shot fishing rig there, and simply wiggle the lure in place without moving the weight. That way you can keep your lure right in front of the fish for a long time, without having to retrieve it and cast again.

Lure rigs

While all of the fishing rigs discussed above can be used as trout fishing setups with either natural bait or artificial lures, some options for rigging for trout are only intended to be used with lures. Let’s take a look at the most important rigs of this type that you should know.

Spinner rig

The spinner rig is the most commonly used lure fishing rigs for trout. It is most often used with spinners (such as a rooster tail or panther martin), but it can also be used when fishing with any other artificial lure designed for casting and retrieving.

How to tie it: Tie your main line to a swivel or snap swivel, and add one or two split shot weights just above the swivel. Next, tie a 2 to 4 foot fluorocarbon leader to the other eye of the swivel, and then tie your lure to the other end of the leader.

Depending on the size and weight of your lure, adjust the number of split shots to achieve the right depth during retrieval. The swivel prevents line twist of your main line, but if you’re using a lure that doesn’t generate twist, you can also tie the main line directly to the leader.

When to use it: This is one of the most versatile trout set ups, and can be used in almost any setting, from small streams to deep lakes. In most cases you should try to fish this rig in the middle of the water column, but can also go deeper than that if the trout are holding close to the bottom.

How to use it: Simply cast out the fishing rig and start retrieving. Depending on how deep you want to fish it, you can adjust your retrieve speed, and you can also experiment with letting the rig sink to the bottom before you start reeling it in. However, if you’re trout fishing over weed beds, make sure to keep your lure above the weeds.

If you’re interested in fishing with trout spinners, check out our complete guide to trout fishing with spinners.

Trout fishing rig setup with bobber and jig

This is a great rainbow trout rig to use if you’re fishing over weeds, as you can fish it slowly without getting the jig snagged in the weeds.

How to tie it: Depending on the depth of the water, you can use either a fixed bobber or a slip bobber.

So start by setting up one of the two bobber rigs (as described above), and instead of tying a bait hook to the end of the line, tie a 1/16 or 1/8 oz jig head to the line. Next, you can bait the jig head with any of a wide variety of plastic lures, and you’re ready to start fishing.

When to use it: This is a great trout fishing setup for beginners when fishing over weed beds, and when want to keep your lure just above the weeds. You can achieve this by setting exactly the right depth with your bobber.

This trout rig setup is also great for drift fishing in streams and rivers, and again you should adjust the setting of your bobber to present the lure just above the bottom.

How to use it: If you’re trout fishing in a lake, cast out the fishing rig and let the jig sink as far as it can (at which point the bobber stands up straight). Then lift your rod tip to retrieve the fishing rig about 4 to 5 feet, and then pause to let the jig sink down again.

What this trout fishing setup achieves is that your jig will be slowly pulled up and then allowed to sink again. In the case of a plastic worm, this results in the worm wiggling through the water, which is highly attractive to most trout.

See also: How to rig when trolling for trout

Ned rig

The ned rig is most familiar to bass anglers, but few people know that it also works really well for catching trout. The key feature of the ned rig that makes it so effective when fishing for trout is that it is usually fished with a floating plastic tail, which is ideal for catching trout.

How to tie it: This is the simplest fishing rig to tie in this collection. If you’re using fluorocarbon as your main line, you can tie that directly to the mushroom jig head of the ned rig and you’re ready to start fishing. If you’re using braided line as your main line, it’s best to use a 2 to 4 foot fluorocarbon leader, since that’s much less visible in the water.

When to use it: You can use this rig whenever trout are feeding close to the bottom, and it works equally well in lakes, rivers, and streams. The only situation when you shouldn’t use this rig is if you’re fishing in a lake with a lot of vegetation on the bottom, which is likely to get your ned rig snagged.

How to use it: Cast it out and let it sink to the bottom, then retrieve it for 3 or 4 feet with a jigging motion, and let it settle on the the bottom again. Repeat this until you get a bite.

What are the best trout rigs?

The 3 best trout rigs are:

• Slip bobber rig
• Slip sinker rig
• Spinner rig

Between them, these three setups cover all the three main types of rigging for trout, and if you can set each of them up and fish them effectively, you’re off to a great start.

The slip sinker rig is perfect for presenting a bait close to the bottom, which is the best depth to target trout in most situations.

The slip bobber rig, on the other hand, can be used to present a bait suspended underneath a bobber, which is great when fishing for trout that are active higher in the water column.

And the spinner rig is a great basic setup for active trout fishing with lures, which is an ideal way to cover a lot of water in search of hungry trout.

If you’re currently looking for a new trout rod, check out our article on what is the best rod for trout fishing?

What are the best trout bait rigs?

The 3 best trout bait rigs are:

• Slip sinker rig
• Slip bobber rig
• Fixed bobber rig

Each of these fishing rigs is well suited for baiting your hook with natural baits like worms, maggots, minnows, corn, salmon eggs, or scented baits like powerbait.

In addition, all of them can be used for fishing passively, by casting out your fishing rig and then waiting for a trout to pass by and take the bait.

Trout worm rigs

The best rigging for trout to use with worms is either the slip sinker rig, or the slip bobber rig. The former rig is the ideal choice if you know that trout are feeding close to the bottom, and the latter rig is better if trout are feeding higher in the water column.

When using a slip sinker with a worm as bait, it’s important to make sure that your baited hook floats in the water, as trout will not eat it if it’s lying directly on the bottom. Traditionally, this has been done by injecting air into the worm with a worm syringe (which you can get in most tackle shops).

More recently, many anglers are fishing with floating jig heads baited with worms to make their bait presentation float in the water, and another great trick is to put a small marshmallow on the tip of your hook, which also makes it buoyant.

Finally, no matter which trout worm rig you use, it’s usually best not to use a whole nightcrawler on your hook, as this is too big to fit into the mouth of a trout. Instead, cut off a 1 or 2 inch piece of the worm, and thread it onto the hook.

The best hook type to use for this rig is a baitkeeper hook, which prevents the worm from sliding down the shank of the hook.

Minnow rigs

The best trout rig to use with minnows is either the slip bobber rig, or the fixed bobber rig. Your hook size should be between size 8 and 12 (depending on the size of the minnow). The best way to hook a minnow for trout is through the upper lip.

Small fish form a large part of the diet of many trout species, which is why they can be such a good bait.

Bobber rigs are great for fishing with live minnows, since you can easily spot a trout bite when the bobber goes down, and this allows you to delay your hook set long enough to give the trout a little extra time to get the minnow fully inside its mouth.

Which one of the two bobber fishing rigs you choose depends on the depth of the water you want to fish in, and on the depth at which trout are active.

When fishing with live minnows as trout bait, it’s important to weigh them down with split shots, so they stay at the right depth.

Salmon egg rig

The best trout rig setup to use with salmon eggs is one of the following:

• Slip bobber rig
• Fixed bobber rig
• Drop shot rig

Your hook size should be between size 8 and 14, and if you use a larger hook, you can thread several salmon eggs onto your trout hook. No matter which fishing rig you choose, you need to cast very gently in order to avoid ripping the eggs off the hook during the casting process.

If you’re trout fishing in a lake or pond, the best choice is a bobber rig, as that allows you to present the salmon eggs suspended in the water. But if you’re trout fishing in a stream or river, you can use a bobber rig to drift the salmon eggs with the current.

Alternatively, you can also use a split shot rig to drift the salmon eggs right on top of the bottom of the stream. The latter approach is better for getting it right in front of the trout, but it’s harder to detect bites with this style of fishing.

Egg rigs also work very well for steelhead fishing, and it that’s something you’re into, check out our article on how do you rig for steelhead bank fishing?

Final remarks

This concludes our article on rigging for trout, and hopefully we’ve helped you find exactly the right rig for your fishing technique.

Different trout rigs are ideally suited for different trout fishing tactics – bait fishing, lure fishing, trout fishing from shore, trout fishing from a boat, as well as fishing in diverse bodies of water, ranging from small streams to big lakes.

Now that you understand the basics of what each of these fishing rigs is designed for, this should help you to choose the best trout setups to help you to catch more fish in your local trout fishery.

Yes, you can eat acorns, and all acorns are edible — it’s just that most need special processing. Here’s how to go about it.

If you haven’t read my other acorn posts, Acorns and the Forager’s Dilemma is an introduction to the use of acorns; the Forager’s Dilemma is, in a word, starch. Starch (carbohydrates) is the toughest thing to gather, and is a primary reason why humans settled down 10,000 years ago to grow grain.

Next I wrote about how various world cultures have traditionally used acorns, cultures ranging from Korea to Japan to the Native Americans, Europeans and North Africans.

Let me say loud and clear that you can eat acorns and all acorns are edible, at least all species of acorns are. We’ll get into details in a bit.

Basically there are three ways to eat acorns: Eating them as nuts (they are a lot like chestnuts), making acorn flour, or cooking in acorn oil. I have not yet tried to make acorn oil, but that link leads you to my friend Sam Thayer’s website; he sells it.

Collecting Edible Acorns

First you need to get yourself a supply of acorns. Go find some oak trees; they’re the ones with all the acorns that have fallen down around them. I know this sounds condescending and stupid, but oaks come in so many varieties that in autumn this really is the easiest way. It is a bit of a crapshoot, as it is tougher to determine a variety of oak by its acorn than by its the leaf — you can do it, but it is a little harder.

You can gather acorns anytime from September until early spring. I find gathering as the acorns fall is best. Suellen Ocean, who wrote a very useful book Acorns and Eat ’em,says she likes to collect Tanoak acorns in February and March, after many have begun sprouting.

She says acorns with sprouts between 1 to 2 inches long are still good to eat, but discard any acorn meats that have turned green. Ocean says recently sprouted acorns a) have begun to turn their starch into sugar, and b) are foolproof: “If it is sprouted, it’s a good acorn and I haven’t wasted time gathering wormy ones.”

A word on worms. When I first gathered acorns, little did I know that I had gathered scores already infected with the larva of the oak weevil. Nasty little maggoty things, you can tell they are inside your acorn if there is a little hole in the shell. Look for it, discard that acorn and move on. But know that oak weevil larvae bored those holes from the inside out. Like Alien.

It’s helpful to know what kind of oak you are dealing with because acorns from different oaks have different levels of tannins in them; more on that in a bit. If you don’t know your trees, start looking for little green acorns in May. Pick a leaf and compare it to oak leaves online or in a guidebook. Gather acorns and compare them to online images and guidebooks; different oaks bear acorns with different shapes.

With that in mind, remember that not all oaks are created equal, and the fundamental fact to know if you are going to eat acorns is that you are dealing with a wild food, and as such must contend with tremendous variability, both in species and even among individuals of the same species.

Some oaks bear acorns so low in bitter tannins that they can be eaten raw. Legend says that California Indians fought over these trees, which makes some sense because one mature Valley Oak can drop 2,000 pounds of acorns in a really good year. A ton of sweet acorns may well be worth fighting over.

That said, even “sweet” acorns should be leached to remove what tannins exist in them because several studies show that unleached acorns can make you constipated and can harm your teeth. Of all the species I know of, only the imported European cork oak and the Emory oak of the Sonoran Desert come close to being “sweet.”

Tannins aren’t the only thing that makes different species of acorn different. UC Riverside Professor David Bainbridge wrote in a 1986 academic paper that depending on species, acorns can range in fat content from 1.1 percent to 31.3 percent, protein from 2.3 percent to 8.6 percent, and carbohydrates from 32.7 percent to 89.7 percent. That is a huge range!

What does it mean? It means that in the kitchen you treat acorns from different species very, very differently. A fatty acorn will make a meal, like ground almonds. A carb-rich acorn — like Valley Oak acorns — makes a drier flour, more like chestnut or chickpea flour (acorns lack gluten and so will not rise.)

Differences in Various Oaks

Here’s a general breakdown:

‘Sweetest’ Acorns, meaning lowest in tannin: East Coast white oak, the Emory oak of the Southwest, the pin oak of the South, the valley and blue oaks of California, the burr oak of the Midwest, as well as the cork oak and the well-named bellota oak of Europe. To my California readers, know that there are an awful lot of cork oaks and burr oaks planted in towns and cities here, so keep your eyes peeled.

Largest Acorns: Valley oaks are really big, as are East Coast White oaks. Burr oaks are large, too, as is the California Black oak.

Fattiest Acorns: The Eastern red oak acorns I’ve used have a very high oil content, and I’ve read that the Algonquin used red oak acorns for oil. In the West, the champions are both live oaks, the Coastal and the interior live oak, as well as the tanoak and black oak, which is Quercus kellogii.

Shelling Acorns

I found that shelling the acorns is the most onerous part of dealing with them. They have an elastic shell that resists normal nut crackers. I found whacking them with a hammer to be the best way to open up an acorn. Some people use a knife, and I do this with green acorns, but not fully ripe ones.

Best way to whack ’em is to put the flat end (the side that used to have the cap) on a firm surface and rap the pointy end with a hammer, or, with long, tapered acorns like cork oak or Valley oaks, just whack the side.

Acorns are far easier to shell after they’ve dried. If you choose to dry them, do this in wide, shallow pans so they don’t get moldy. Once dried, I’ve worked with two-year-old acorns and they were fine. They will need an overnight soak before grinding, however.

Red oak acorns have a “test,” a skin that doesn’t want to come off, just like a chestnut. Easiest way to deal with this is to freeze your fresh acorns for a week or two before cracking. This will slip the skin off the nut. The skin is bitter, but it’s not that big a deal if you are making flour.

Shell your acorns into water. The meats oxidize, and you will get a lighter-colored flour if you do this. It’s aesthetic, but it matters to me.

Tannins

All acorns should be leached with water to remove bitter tannins, which will a) make your mouth feel and taste like felt, b) make you a bit nauseous, and possibly c) constipate you for days.

Getting those tannins out is the big barrier to cooking with acorns. But it ain’t no biggie. With my valley oak acorns, after shelling I drop the acorn meats directly into my stockpot that was two-thirds full of water. When I fill the pot about a third of the way up with shelled acorns, if I am in a hurry, I bring the pot of water to a boil. The water turns dark. As soon as it boils, pour the water off into the sink and repeat the process.

It requires about five changes of water to get valley oak acorns to taste like chestnuts. I did this all while watching football, and did not miss a snap. Other oaks will require more or fewer changes of water. Choose the “sweetest” acorns on my list above for the least amount of work.

There is a better method, but it takes days. Grind the raw acorns into flour, then mix a ratio of 1 cup of acorn meal to 3 cups water, or more water if you have large containers. Pour this all into a glass jar with a lid and put it in the fridge. Every day you shake the jar, wait 12 hours or more, then pour off the water — and the tannins.

How long? Anywhere from a week to two weeks, depending on how bitter your acorns are. This is a good way to leach acorns without using fuel for boiling water, and you do not denature a particular starch in the acorns that acts a little like the gluten in flour, i.e., it helps the flour stick to itself. I go into the full process of cold leaching acorns here.

If you plan on baking with the acorn flour, use the cold-water leaching method.

Once your acorns are free of tannins, you need to figure out what to do with them. Regardless, you need to dry them first or they will rot. Acorn grits can be patted dry on a tea towel. If it is hot out, lay the acorns out on cookie sheets and dry in the shade. You could also put them in an oven set on “warm.” You can also put the acorns in a dehydrator set on low heat, which is what I do.

You can also freeze your fresh acorn meal. Store dried flour in jars in the fridge. Why the fridge? What fat there is in acorns will go rancid pretty quick if you left the flour at room temperature.

What you can now do to eat acorns is pretty limitless.

My first success was an acorn flour flatbread in the style of an Italian piadina. I also make an acorn flour honey cake, which is really very tasty — almost like gingerbread cake. The flour also makes an excellent pasta dough when mixed with regular flour.

Other Ways To Eat Acorns

I will also substitute about 1/5 of the flour in my homemade flour tortillas with acorn flour, and I also make mean acorn gnocchi.

Use your imagination!

Many people love meat because it’s a good source of protein. Do you need ideas on the tastiest meat dish for your lunch or special event? You’ll never go wrong with well-cooked deer brisket, as it has a spicy flavor when you serve it hot.

The brisket on a deer lies at the bottom of a deer’s chest, in front of the ribcage. Removing a deer’s brisket involves removing the shoulders, backstrap, and tenderloins and cutting through the cartilage.

The rest of this article will:

• Delve deeper to explain where to find deer brisket.
• Discuss whether you must sear a deer’s brisket.
• How to remove brisket off a deer.
• Where to find the best meat on a deer.
• You’ll also learn the differences between venison backstrap and the tenderloin and what part of a deer is best for steaks.

Can You Get Brisket off a Deer?

Though tough, brisket is one of the most delicious meats in mammals, including deer. While butchering a deer to get the brisket may seem like a painstaking process, it’s achievable with the right tools and skills.

You can get brisket off a deer even though it’s smaller and leaner than a cow’s brisket. Using a sharp knife, you should remove it by cutting off the meat between the forelimbs on the deer’s chest through the cartilage. Also, cut out all fat up to the backbone.

Since a deer’s brisket is smaller than other big animals, removing it is a challenge to most people. However, when you follow the right butchering procedure, you can get the brisket off the carcass.

You can make the best fajitas, burgers, or sausages with this piece of meat or trim and grill it under higher heat.

Related Best Knife for Processing Deer | Hint: You Need Two.

Should Brisket Be Seared?

Brisket should be seared because it is essential to build up the meat’s flavor. However, you need to prepare it adequately before searing it and let it slow-cook in the oven or pan. Slow cooking makes the meat tender and easier for you to slice it afterward.

Searing venison brisket is a common preparation method in most traditional dishes as it adds flavor to the meat. Searing involves cooking the meat’s surface under high temperatures until it caramelizes, otherwise known as forming a brown crust.

Adding some oil creates contact between the brisket and the cooking surface.

• Before you sear the brisket, trim away the fat pad on the brisket’s outer surface. A large sharp knife will come in handy during this preparation step.
• Then, marinate it using salt, pepper, or other spices a day before you cook it.

Moreover, it’s important to remember that deer meat is generally tough, and storing it for a couple of days enables the aging process, which will make the meat tender, including the brisket. Do this before starting your cooking process, and you’ll have tender briskets.

After aging, trimming off fat, and marinating the deer’s brisket, you can now sear it.

If you notice that there are still some grey spots on the meat after searing, it means one side of the brisket didn’t cook well. To avoid these spots, you should ensure that you flip both sides to burn evenly.

How To Remove Deer Brisket

You might be thinking about getting a professional butcher to remove the brisket from your deer, right? However, there’s an easier way to do this in the comfort of your home.

Removing a deer’s brisket is one of the final meat-cutting steps of butchering.

After you’re through with the major butchering procedure, you can remove the brisket in a slab using the flat of your knife. Cut the meat carefully against the lower-chest region, trimming off the cod fat and tallow.

To get to the deer’s brisket, you have to butcher cut major parts. Here are the steps:

1. Cut and pull the shoulders from the torso of the deer to expose the cut zone which your knife will pass through.
2. Pull the front leg away from the torso, and with your knife’s blade parallel to the ribcage, cut the hinge area.
3. Remove the backstraps and the tenderloin, but trim away the excess fat layer first. To do this, find the hip bone and cut under this bone to the backbone on both sides. Loosen and get the meat off by ensuring that your knife is close to the bone.
4. Cut through the ribs down to the backbone. You’ll find the brisket on the outer surface of the ribs. Cut it off while your knife’s blade is against the lower-front chest region and remove any cod fat.

Check out this YouTube video that shows the process of removing a brisket:

Where Is the Best Meat on a Deer?

After butchering a deer, you’ll want to get the most out of the process. Many people go for the bigger and popular venison chunks. But where’s the best meat on a deer?

The backstraps and tenderloins are the best meat cuts of a deer. These parts are tender and will give you a succulent and delicious meal. Other preferred parts include the hindquarters, rump, and chucks.

Backstraps and tenderloins are a favorite to most venison lovers as they are tender and easy to cook. The hindquarters have a variety of uses, as you can use them as steak, in stews, kebabs, or jerky.

There are many other recipes for preparing this dish that you can try out on your own.

Is Venison Backstrap the Same As Tenderloin?

Differentiating between the venison backstrap and tenderloin can be a bit confusing.

A backstrap isn’t the same as a tenderloin. The venison backstrap is the meat along a deer’s spine on the outer part of the backbone. However, tenderloin sits beneath the spine, inside the abdominal cavity along the backbone.

Tenderloin is about 10” to 12” (25.4 to 30.48 cm) smaller than the backstrap but very delicious.

What Part of a Deer Is Best for Steaks?

Are you a steak lover? Well, you can make the best steaks from some parts of venison.

The hindquarters of the deer is best for steaks. The top and bottom rounds have extensive muscles but also have tender sections. They produce the best steaks and cuts for other dishes. Venison hindquarters are large, with cuts for various uses.

You can get the best steak from these parts in young or older deer. However, the bottom rounds are more tender than the top ones.

Final Words

You can get brisket off a deer by following the correct butchering process all by yourself. It may not be a very easy cut to make, but it’s doable. Once you have the brisket, you can leave it for a few days to age and then prepare it for cooking by marinating first.

Searing the brisket is also a great idea as it helps to lock in the flavors.

For more, check out The 5 Best Ways to Preserve Meat in the Wild.

SALT LAKE CITY, Utah (ABC4) – The Utah Division of Wildlife Resources (DWR) has announced a statewide emergency closure to “shed hunting” in an effort to help wintering big game, particularly deer populations. The last time shed hunting was prohibited in Utah was 2017.

The antler gathering restrictions are effective Feb. 7 through April 30 across Utah, on both private and public lands, according to a press release.

DWR biologists have reportedly been monitoring the condition of the deer, as well as snow depths and winter temperatures, throughout Utah since early Dec.

These monitoring efforts include “body condition and health assessments,” conducted during the big game captures that take place each Dec. Biologists measure and record “overall deer condition, body fat levels and fawn weights” of the animals going into winter, the release states.

Biologists also place GPS collars on deer to monitor animal migrations and survival.

Data from these monitoring efforts and GPS tracking reportedly show that the extreme cold and increased snowpack across the state are starting to impact mule deer fawn survival rates, and may negatively impact the ability of the adult deer to survive the winter.

In these types of conditions, big game animals are weakened and highly vulnerable to repeated human-caused disturbances. The unnecessary expenditure of energy and stress associated with disturbance — like being repeatedly followed by someone gathering shed antlers — may significantly decrease the survival rates of big game animals, particularly deer, this winter. Closing the shed antler and horn gathering season will minimize a major source of disturbance in the areas and during the time periods when big game animals are the most exposed and vulnerable. Shed antler gathering is not the only winter activity with the potential to disturb wintering wildlife. We encourage everyone to be aware of wildlife during this vulnerable period and do their best to not disturb them.

Utah Division of Wildlife Resources Director J. Shirley

The release states these temporary restrictions also apply to looking for horns and antlers still attached to the skull plate of a deceased animal, in addition to naturally shed antlers.

DWR conservation officers will reportedly be conducting additional patrols this winter to enforce the restrictions and ensure that people aren’t disturbing wintering wildlife. “Violators may be cited,” according to the DWR.

The DWR has also implemented “emergency deer feeding” in parts of Rich, Summit and Cache counties. Biologists may also feed deer in additional locations, if emergency feeding criteria are met. However, deer feeding will reportedly not happen in areas where chronic wasting disease, a fatal, neurological illness among deer, elk, moose, etc., has been found.

Except for other emergency changes made since Jan 1, 2024, all other rules established in the 2024 Big Game Application Guidebook remain in effect.

“We know shed hunting is a popular pastime for many families in Utah, and we appreciate everyone’s understanding and cooperation in waiting to go gather antlers until after April 30,” DWR Big Game Coordinator Dax Mangus said. “These efforts will help reduce stress on Utah’s big game animals and increase their chances of surviving the winter.”

The DWR states they will continue to monitor the condition of deer and the winter conditions across the state and may lift the closures earlier than April 30, if conditions allow.

Not sure what pellets for hunting to get?

Look no further.

I’ve exhaustively tested all the best 177 pellets for hunting on the market. In fact, I tested everything, including: accuracy, reliability, speed and so much more.

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect pellets.

Are you ready?

The 4 Best 177 Pellets For Hunting

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 177 pellets for hunting:

1. Crosman DS177 Destroyer: Best Overall 177 Pellets
2. H&N Terminator Hollow Points: Most Accurate 177 Pellets
3. Crosman Premier Super Points: Best for the Budget
4. GAMO Red Fire: Best for Hunting Rabbits

1. Crosman DS177 Destroyer: Best Overall 177 Pellets

With many options and styles of pellets on the market to choose from, I can easily say that the Crosman DS177 Destroyer pellets are the best on the market today.

A weekend of testing these pellets was a fun project.

You won’t believe some of the results that I had with an air rifle pellet.

So great. So surprising!

Accuracy

The accuracy of Crosman’s dish pellet was spot-on.

Most of the use that I get from my break barrel air rifle is with small game and pest removal.

Testing for that scenario was a hodge-podge course of 15-35+ yards of paper targets, water bottles, and jugs, as well as the trusty ole soda cans.

Man, I set up a treasure-trove of targets to shoot at all over the dang place for this. I was on target for all of them the entire time.

The dish style pointed-pellet/hollow-point combo was true in its travel without fail.

It was great.

Reliability

The reliability of the Destroyers was pretty remarkable given the circumstances.

With all of those tempting targets dangling from trees and sitting atop every flat surface within 40 yards, there was A LOT of shooting done on day one.

Like a kid in a candy store, I was reloading over and over for hours. I went through almost two tins of pellets in one weekend.

Yes. That’s almost 500 pellets all by my lonesome.

There were less than a handful that I would call total duds. That’s crazy good for such an affordable little pellet.

Aside from the ridiculously difficult to open tins, my indulgently excessive shooting was almost entirely smooth and failure-free.

Just goes to show, the best tools for the job don’t always have to cost an arm and a leg.

Pretty sweet when that’s the case, right?

Effective

The impeccable 7.4-grain lead Destroyer .177 pellets are tailor-made for effective performance.

This hunting pellet is designed for complete expansion and energy transfer. Not just impact triggered expansion….impact followed by expansion.

On the paper targets fixed to my trees, the expansion after impact was easy to see.

With some digging in the tree bark, I uncovered pellets that were penetrating several inches with the full bloom of the expansion.

On the bigger water jugs, the same results were visible over and over.

This advantage for my pest removal is a pretty big deal. Other expanding pellets tend to expand at the impact.

For critters like raccoons, woodchucks, or opossum, if my shot is not spot-on the pellet may strike bone and flatten without penetrating and killing the pest.

The good penetration through my target will get me past the bone and then expand in the soft tissue for humane extermination. Getting it done with one shot isn’t just about skill in shooting.

Is the Crosman Destroyer Worth it?

The Crosman DS177 Destroyer Pellet is perfect for a one-shot kill of rodents and small game that are causing trouble around my home.

It’s also such a great pellet for paper range target shooting, and plinking.

The reliable performance with even and effective expansion is ideal.

So go out and get yourself some of these little fellas. Meanwhile, I’ve got a lot of cleaning up on the test range to do! Enjoy!

2. H&N Terminator Hollow Points: Most Accurate 177 Pellets

H&N Terminator Hollow Points: with an imposing name and a vicious look, these pellets are out for blood, garden pest blood that is.

The Terminator Hollow Points are designed for pest management and “extreme accuracy.”

Will these pellets have your yard in tip-top shape or your garden in shambles?

Let’s take a look.

Construction

H&N’s claim to fame was the quality of their construction, so it’s a slam dunk here.

The material used is unpolished lead which is soft and malleable meaning it’s excellent for the “massive expansion” that is advertised for the Terminator Hollow Points.

The design is very similar to most other hollow point pellets on the market with one exception:

From the center of the head, a spike protrudes.

This assists in the initial penetration of the intended target. Additionally, there are notches around the rim of the hollow point that make it easier for the projectile to expand once it hits and enters something.

My only issue was that the pellets look a little bit rougher than what is shown in the advertisements online.

Mine came a little bit scratched up and the point was either dented or rounded enough to where I would not be able to poke myself enough to draw blood. This is extremely minor though because the performance is not affected by this slight discrepancy in looks.

I’m not sure if the point being rounded made much of a difference in effectiveness because I was still able to drop squirrels in one hit. It still gets the job done.

Now, remember this is still unpolished lead. Despite the high-quality construction, you’ll still need to clean your weapon of choice frequently to ensure good and consistent shooting

With that being said, the quality is exactly what you’d expect from H&N: Precise, solid, and dependable.

Accuracy and Practicality

High-quality construction is useless if you can’t hit where you’re aiming; luckily you’ll have no problems with the Terminator pellets.

I used these pellets for two things: garden protection and regular ol’ plinking. I had a good time with both.

H&N has the Terminator pellets being extremely accurate at 25 yards or medium range.

I can personally attest to this. For about two days, I just sat on my back patio and shot at a paper target (with a backstop of course) to see how accurate the pellets actually are.

During my testing, I found that I was able to hit roughly one-inch groups at 25 yards and half-inch groups at 12 and a half. I took this accuracy as a go-ahead to start going after pests in my garden.

I must have gotten at least 6 squirrels in three days. Five out of six squirrels were clean one hits.

There was one instance where the pellet failed to expand and went clean through. The force was sufficient to shock and knock it over long enough for a follow-up.

This brings me to another important personal point:

I do not like squirrels, they have killed many of my plants over the years, but I think an animal suffering is unnecessary. I was very satisfied that I was able to have humane kills due to the design of the pellet.

While large exit wounds are not pretty, you can rest assured that you’re no putting anything in an undue amount of pain. The exit holes are quite large. The Terminators live up to their name and have a massive expansion, like H&N claims.

Another thing I was worried about was over-penetration.

I have kind of close neighbors and initially, I was concerned about hitting windows or houses, even though I was mostly shooting into the ground when I was on the hunt.

It was a relief to find out that these pellets are superb for semi-suburban pest control. I had no over-penetration. The hollow point design and large expansion radius lend itself well to controlled velocity loss.

This means that the pellets lost speed very quickly, usually landing on top of the group behind the animal or bouncing off a tree after passing through my target. This is a great pellet if you’re worried about hitting something unintentionally.

In terms of accuracy, the Terminator Hollow Points are a very solid choice, more so if you’re space is limited.

Price

A tin of 400 unpolished lead pellets isn’t gonna break the bank at $15.39 on Amazon, slightly more expensive elsewhere.

This is definitely worth the cost, especially among similarly priced pellets and brands.

Are the H&N Terminator Hollow Points worth it?

There’s no question about it. These pellets are a must buy if you plan on taking care of a pest problem via airguns and pellet guns.

The construction, accuracy, and practicality all come together beautifully in the H&N Terminator Hollow Point pellets.

3. Crosman Premier Super Points: Best for the Budget

The Crosman Premier Super Points are the best .177 pellets for hunters on a budget.

Crosman Premier is known for their dependable pellets, and the Super Points give you consistent, precise shots without breaking the bank.

But, how do they measure up against more expensive pellets?

Let’s find out!

Accuracy

The Crosman Super Points are made to precise specifications with a far-reaching tip to ensure good, dependable, shot-to-shot accuracy.

Hitting targets within a 50-yard range is no problem. From 40 yards, my average grouping was about 1.5” using the standard iron sights on my Remington Vantage 1200.

It’s not the best accuracy I’ve ever seen, but it’s good enough to get the job done, and a great value for the lower price point.

I’ve shot these through both the Vantage 1200 and a GAMO airgun, and these pellets gave me good, dependable accuracy in both.

Shape and Fit

The Super Points have a pointed, aerodynamic design to ensure the longest range possible.

Although these pellets worked great for me in my two airguns, the fit is very dependent on the bore.

The front drive band is wider than on most pellets, so trying to squeeze them into tighter-bore firearms may damage the pellet, or cause your gun to jam!

However, they fit looser-bore guns tightly, which can give you better velocity. From what I’ve seen and read, they seem to like rotary magazines the best.

Another thing to keep in mind is that the pellets are made from premium lead – which means they can be easily deformed. Make sure you use the flat part of your finger to load them into your airgun.

Reliability

The Super Points feed very well into loosely-bore guns. Crosman Premier usually crafts high-quality lead pellets, and these are no exception.

They’re wear-resistant and give a consistently good performance.

A couple of things to note:

Lead pellets get the job done well, but as mentioned, can be very soft and easy to deform. Make sure you’re very careful, and never drop them onto any hard surfaces!

Manufacturing consistency is also not fantastic.

Although head diameter is usually very consistent, this isn’t the case here.

The weight, on the other hand, is very consistent. We’ll discuss this more in-depth later.

Despite these couple of factors that have the potential to cause issues, these pellets give you clean shots and work well in most loosely-bore airguns.

Speed

Super Points will give you close to the maximum distance you can get with airguns.

They hold their velocity well, which helps with accuracy. Based on my measurements, their average velocity is around 900 FPS!

Before I used them for hunting, I tested the pellets by shooting some through cotton targets. While most other pellets barely broke through 2 layers, these easily went through 4 layers of 100% cotton.

Size

Each Super Point weighs 7.9 grains. They’re a bit heavy to amount to Crosman’s claims of “maximum power” in an air rifle, but they still have impressive velocity and get the job done well.

The average head diameter on the Super Points is 4.52mm, and the average length is 5.37mm.

Although head diameter is usually a very tightly controlled parameter, the Super Points vary slightly from bullet to bullet.

It’s not a huge difference between each pellet, but it’s still something to take note of.

The weight, on the other hand, seems to be at a consistent 7.9 grains throughout each individual pellet.

Price

A box of 500 Super Points retails online for anywhere between $7-$15.

It’s a very good value for what you get, and these are among the cheapest .177 pellets currently on the market.

Recommendations

The Crosman Premier Super Points are great for close-range small game hunting and pest control.

They expand when they get in contact with the target, making them a great choice for hunting squirrels, groundhogs, or birds.

Serious airgunners can expect consistent, precise shots with these pellets.

If you’re a small game hunter on a budget, Super Points are a great choice.

4. GAMO Red Fire: Best for Hunting Rabbits

GAMO Red Fire pellets are the best for hunting rabbits!

Bunnies can raze my entire garden in a single night if not controlled. This means I needed to find the best option for taking care of these furry pests fast!

I’ve always done a decent job with round pellets, so why did I change things up?

What I found out after giving Red Fires a try will probably impress you as much as it did me.

Check this out.

Accuracy

The GAMO Red Fire pellets are very accurate.

Thanks in part to the cone-tipped shape of the pellet itself, GAMO’s design has maximized trajectory consistency.

I was initially testing on targets that I’d set up at 30 yards. From the first shot, I was very impressed with the performance.

No adjustments are needed. No learning curve to adapt to.

Immediately on target, I was ready to get down to business in a blink.

I value quality products, and accuracy is one of the most important features for these pellets. It’s not the only top-notch feature though.

Speed

The excellent performance of these pellets can also largely be attributed to speed.

The actual size of these pellets is a hair larger than the round pellets I’ve used in the past. I was a bit concerned by the appearance that they would be too big for my air rifle, but I was wrong.

The design of the pellet creates such a tight seal in the barrel, that the pellet comes screaming out at incredible speed.

The excellent trajectory also comes hand in hand with more effective stopping power.

Those little furballs are fast and twitchy, giving me only one shot when I catch them in my garden.

If I miss they’re long gone and I’m back to waiting. The high speed of the Red Fire pellet increases my odds of success every time.

Reliability

The GAMO Red Fire pellets are clearly reliable and well made.

Consistency in the way these are made is plain as day. Every tip is centered and in place. The tumbled appearance, without seams or visible defects, is a clear indication of the quality.

I have no worries about failures with the Red Fires.

Many round or poorly made pellets tend to veer way off target on occasion, due to irregular shapes.

I never had any trouble with that problem using the Red Fires. Both on the initial target tests and in my use afterward on the devil-bunnies, I never had a single wayward pellet.

Effective

The Red Fire pellets are so much more effective for rabbits than the round pellets I used to use.

Designed to mushroom on impact, these lethal pellets make a big difference in quickly downing my targets.

When I started, with the paper-over-wood targets, the pellets at everything less than 20 yards would shape into flat discs on impact.

On impact, on the 30+ yard targets, and in my real targets, the expansion was more of the peeled-back shape that I’d expected.

Typical pellets require relatively good precision to get an effective kill-shot that will eliminate the vermin quickly. The Red Fire’s expanding design increased immediate stopping power.

I want to eliminate a pest as humanly as possible. Being able to put the rabbits down quickly is so much simpler thanks to GAMO’s smart design.

Are the GAMO Red Fire pellets worth it?

Yes! For taking care of the rabbits in my garden, I will never use anything other than these pellets again.

The higher speed, consistency in pellets, and effective stopping power are all perfect for Operation Defend-The-Veggies at my house.

I’m so incredibly impressed with these pellets. I’ll be bunny-free in no time thanks to the GAMO Red Fire Pellets. Yes!!

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best 177 pellets for huntingguide.

So as a recap:

If you’re looking for the best overall 177 pellets, I highly recommend the Crosman DS177 Destroyer.

Or if you are looking for accuracy, get the H&N Terminator Hollow Points.

If you’re on a budget, then the Crosman Premier Super Points is for you. It is affordable, consistent and precise.

Lastly, if you are into hunting rabbits, then the GAMO Red Fire is what you are looking for.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which hunting pellets will you pick?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.