Best Men’s Winter Gloves

Carhartt Waterproof Insulated

Material: Polyester | Touchscreen Compatible: No

If you’re looking for classic, reliable, and easy-to-wear winter options, we recommend the Carhartt Waterproof Insulated. Their functional construction and flexible polyester material make them dexterous despite their bulk. All that insulation keeps your hands toasty. One of our testers wore them in temperatures as low as -20° F while collecting glacial data in the Yukon. After that, it’s easy to recommend them for shoveling the walk or walking the dog. It doesn’t hurt that they block wind, and the main body is waterproof.

While the outer shell does repel water effectively, its cozy fleece cuff does not. When it gets wet, moisture creeps up the liner and inside. You can protect the cuff with the sleeve of a jacket, but that doesn’t work in a snowball fight. Sweat can build up in them as well. Once wet, they often take more than a day to dry. While they move well, their slippery fabric and bulky insulation make it difficult to complete detailed tasks, like tying your shoelaces. Though imperfect, these are the best winter gloves we’ve tested for daily use.

Best Women’s Winter Gloves

Carhartt Quilts Insulated

Material: Polyester | Touchscreen Compatible: No

The Carhartt Quilts Insulated women’s winter gloves are almost as warm and water-resistant as the men’s, making them a good option for anyone with smaller hands. They’re soft against the skin and well insulated, with quilted polyester insulation and fleece lining. Though not technically waterproof, they repel water and block wind completely. Straps that tighten at the wrists hold them in place, and a tab that extends from the thick synthetic palms makes them easy to pull on.

While Carhartt doesn’t claim these are waterproof, they hold their own in wet weather. During a submersion test, water only snuck through one seam just before the two-minute mark. The cozy fleece lining is a weak point, though. It holds onto moisture, which can sneak in from the cuff. They take up to two days to dry. The fingers are short and bulky, and the fabric is slick, making it hard to perform detailed tasks. And a few loose stitches from the start have us questioning their durability. Still, they’re reasonably priced for hands looking to shovel, pull sleds, and make snowballs.

Best Ski Glove for Men

Arc’teryx Fission SV

Material: Nylon, polyester, goat leather, Gore-Tex | Touchscreen Compatible: No

Since they’re meant to be worn for days at a time, the best skiing and snowboarding gloves are warmer, more technical, and pricier than most winter-generic options. The Arc’teryx Fission SVs are the best we’ve tested. The tough, synthetic shell is reinforced with a double layer of goat leather, while a Gore-Tex membrane insert keeps your hands dry. The combination shuts out cold, wet, or windy weather. We’re also impressed with how well they hold up. It took 150 days of use to see wear on the leather palms and fingers, which is far better than the competition. They’re also warm and breathable, keeping your hands toasty and dry. Despite the generous layer of insulation, they’re very dexterous and keep our hands useful in the snow.

The Fission SVs do run large. They’re wide and lack an adjustable wrist strap to tighten and hold them in place. They’re also expensive. Since they work well for a range of outdoor pursuits, you’re likely to get your money’s worth. If you’ll be out for hours or days in brutal winter conditions, these are the best gloves we recommend.

Read more: Arc’teryx Fission SV review

Best Ski Glove for Women

Arc’teryx Fission SV Glove

Material: Nylon, Polyester, Goat leather, Gore-Tex | Touchscreen Compatible: No

These technical snowboarding and skiing pair are the favorite of both our men’s and our women’s testing teams. The Arc’teryx Fission SV is a unisex option with a synthetic shell reinforced with two layers of goat leather. They’re tough and durable, barely showing any wear after months of intensive use. The Gore-Tex membrane kept our hands dry in even the most trying conditions, day after day while remaining breathable and avoiding sweaty hand moisture build-up. Though they’re not touchscreen compatible, these warmly insulated gloves are still surprisingly dextrous.

However, these genderless handwear run a bit large and are best on wider hands. They also don’t have an adjustable wrist strap, which can be a dealbreaker for some women. They’re also some of the most expensive ones we’ve tested, though their functionality ensures we wore them through pretty much every winter endeavor, getting the full range of use out of this investment. Ultimately, we’re big fans of these and recommend them to anyone looking to get outside without getting cold hands.

Read more: Arc’teryx Fission SV – Women’s review

Best Overall Women’s Ski Mittens

Black Diamond Mercury Mitt – Women’s

Material: Leather, Pertex nylon, waterproof BD.dry | Touchscreen Compatible: No

If you have trouble keeping your hands warm, mittens may be for you. The Black Diamond Mercury Mitts are our favorites. They’re double layered, with an insulated, fleece-lined insert (the warm and quick drying Primaloft Gold if you’re interested) and a durable shell. The outer layer features a water-repellant shell, waterproof insert, and large gauntlet cuff that overlaps your jacket sleeve to form a weatherproof seal. These mittens breathe well, and the removal liners dry quickly if you’re hands go clammy at the top of a steep drop. They’re also durable. Some of our testers have worn them for years. Despite braving some seriously frigid climates, we haven’t found a cold they couldn’t handle.

Mittens keep your hands warmer than gloves by letting your fingers huddle together, but they sacrifice dexterity. We have to remove these mitts to do much of anything with our hands, and it would be nice if they had leashes so they weren’t so easy to drop in the snow. When it’s really cold, we like to pair a thinner liner underneath and then pull these mittens on for serious weather protection. We love them for frozen days and any time we’re worried about keeping our hands warm.

Read more: Black Diamond Mercury Mitt – Women’s review

Best Men’s Ski Mitten

Black Diamond Mercury Mitt

Material: Leather, Pertex nylon, waterproof BD.dry | Touchscreen Compatible: No

Black Diamond also makes a men’s version of the Mercury Mitt. The only difference between them is that the men’s version runs larger. Our men’s and women’s test teams can’t say enough about the warmth and weatherproofing of this two-layer mitten. The puffy, fleece-lined inner mitt holds warmth, while the waterproof shell keeps the weather out with a large gauntlet cuff. They’re also well-built, featuring a goat leather palm, overlapping layers, and a handy patch for wiping your nose. They proved durable for long cold winter days.

The downside to mittens is that they make it hard to use your hands. The Mercury Mitt proved to be one of the least maneuverable ski or snowboard gloves or mittens in the lineup. It’s often hard to complete basic tasks like zipping a jacket or working small buckles while wearing them. As a result, we often take them off and wish they had a leash to help us keep track of them. As long as you can deal with having to expose your hands to the elements from time to time, these mittens can’t be beaten when it comes to warmth.

Read more: Black Diamond Mercury Mitt review

Best Value Men’s Ski Glove

Gordini GTX Storm Trooper II

Material: Polyester, Gore-Tex, synthetic leather | Touchscreen Compatible: No

Gordini has been making a version of the GTX Storm Trooper IIs for a long time, and they’ve consistently offered exceptional value. They never fail to impress our testers with how much warmth and weather protection they offer at a significantly lower price than the competition. Our hands consistently stay dry and content in these. Solid construction also means that they’re durable enough to last multiple seasons for even our most dedicated ski testers — industry pros who are on the hill well over 100 days a season.

These aren’t the warmest option we’ve tested, though. They aren’t our top recommendation for bitterly cold days when only the die-hard folks brave the elements. They’re also unwieldy, with insulation stacked at the fingertips, making it hard to complete simple tasks like handling a zipper or buckle. Note: We tested these just before the company simplified the name to Gordini GTX Storm Glove. The changes are largely cosmetic, and we’ll direct you to the newer version. They’re the option we recommend to anyone looking for excellent performance on a budget.

Read more: Gordini GTX Storm Trooper II review

Best Value Ski Mitten for Women

Burton Gore-Tex Mitten – Women’s

Material: Recycled polyester, polyester, Gore-Tex | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

The affordable women’s Burton Gore-Tex Mittens are impressively warm and easy to wear. Combining a lightweight liner and a waterproof mitten shell, they give you the best of both worlds. The liners (like actual gloves with separate fingers) are touchscreen compatible, making it easy to use your phone without exposing your hands to wind and weather. The outer mitten shell is surprisingly nimble as well. It’s also well-insulated and decently warm. The durable palm stands up to a fair bit of abuse, and the price is hard to beat.

These mittens aren’t the warmest we’ve tested. The shell material feels less durable than some of the higher-priced options, and the fabric does eventually saturate when exposed to wet weather. The inner waterproof liner keeps your hands protected, but you do end up with a soggy outer layer. Still, if you’re looking for a bargain, these mittens are an excellent option. If you’re not into mitts and want a good deal on a women’s glove, check out the Dakine Camino.

Read more: Burton Gore-Tex Mitten – Women’s review

Best Liner Glove

Achiou Touch Screen Thermal

Material: Acrylic, polyester | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

Liners are great on their own in mild weather and do a lot to improve the warmth rating of a winter pair when layered underneath. Lightweight, soft, and impressively warm, the Achiou Touch Screen Thermals are an excellent example. They balance insulating your hand, blocking wind surprisingly well, and letting moisture and sweat escape. If the Achious do get wet, they dry quickly. Touchscreen-compatible patches on the thumb, pointer, and middle fingers let you use your devices without exposing your fingers to the cold.

On the downside, you have to wash these by hand. And we don’t love their fit. The cuffs are short and often disappear beneath your outer mitt when worn as a liner. The thumbs are long, making their touchscreen patches less effective than those on your fingers, which work wonderfully. All told, if you’re looking for durable, affordable liners, these are our picks.

Best Unisex Work Glove

Mechanix Wear Coldwork Original

Material: Rubber, fleece, softshell | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

The Mechanix Coldwork Originals are the best work options we tested. Meant for cool to cold weather, they have a lightweight fleece lining with a durable softshell and rubber exterior. They breathe well, which is great for warmer days, and our lead tester found them comfortable for small engine repair down into the teens and twenties. They’re machine washable and work well for a range of activities, from raking leaves to shoveling. All five fingers are touchscreen compatible, making it exceptionally easy to check the instructions on your phone for whatever YouTube project you have going. They also moved so well that we rarely needed to pull them off to complete a detailed task.

Since they’re insulated, these aren’t the best for warm fall days. They’re also not waterproof, are slow to dry, and aren’t warm enough for extremely low temperatures. Though the size small Mechanix fits our women testers with size small hands, the fingers are a touch long. If they are too big for you, we’d recommend checking out the Wells Lamont Hydrahide women’s option. If they do fit you, though, we highly recommend the Mechanix for detailed tasks in mild to chilly weather.

Best Mountain Bike Gloves for Men

Giro Xen

Material: Polyester, rubber, polyethylene | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

Light and breathable with a dialed fit and precise padding, the Xen is a top-notch choice for biking. Mesh panels keep your hands from overheating, and supple palm fabric provides excellent feedback from the handlebars and the trail. Padding across the knuckles and wrapping around the outside edge of both hands kept our skin intact when we grazed a few rocks and trees during testing. Giro claims that their product engineering process results in a Superfit. We have to agree. With a velcro wrist tab that effectively snugs them around your hand, these fit to a T. The touchscreen-compatible thumb, pointer, and middle finger keep you connected.

Our only concern with the Xens is how long they’ll last. They arrived out of the box with frayed seams, their construction is relatively lightweight, and the wrist closure is not as robust as we’d like. That said, they stood up during our tests, including a few light impacts. All told, these perform well for a range of riders and styles, from downhill laps to long, aggressive trails. They’re the ones we tell our friends about. There’s also a women’s version, the Xena, that we expect would deliver the same outsized performance in smaller sizes.

Best Unisex Climbing Glove

Petzl Cordex

Material: Goat leather, nylon | Touchscreen Compatible: No

The Petzl Cordex are the best climbing gloves we’ve tested for a day of belaying. Combining a sturdy leather palm with a breathable synthetic backing, they manage to maximize palm protection, durability, and comfort simultaneously. Well-placed leather reinforcements increase durability and provide additional padding. We especially appreciate the extra leather on the thumbs and index fingers, taking the edge off a day of rope wrangling, belaying, and rappelling. The nylon baking keeps them lightweight and makes them our favorite option for hot days when a full leather day would mean sweating hands and potential blisters.

The leather surface doesn’t grip as well as we’d like, and this isn’t our favorite for long belays. The fit isn’t precise either, making it harder to handle carabiners and perform other detailed tasks than we’d like. We still consider them dexterous, just not the best we’ve seen. We love this option for its cooling comfort on hot days and the extra padding in its tough and supple leather palms. It’s our favorite option for causal craig belays.

Best Crack Climbing Gloves

Ocun Crack Glove

Material: Synthetic, rubber | Touchscreen Compatible: No

If you need to protect your hands for crack climbing but are sick of taping up, crack gloves are an excellent alternative. The Ocuns are our favorites. Their thoughtful construction balances durability and hand protection with enough sensitivity for precise placements. We put in a few thousand feet in these on both rock and plastic splitters and struggled to find flaws. Most crack climbing mitts we’ve tested felt either incredibly durable but too bulky or thin and flimsy. Despite the Ocun’s slim profile, they provide plenty of padding and hold up under steady abuse.

The Ocuns run small. Our testers ordered one size up, and we suggest that you do the same. Aside from that, the only issue we have with these is their wrist closure strap, which can be hard to secure. Once you get it to hold, the excess strap tucks behind the backing and out of the way. They’re not cheap, but after hundreds of pitches, they still deliver unrivaled performance.

Why You Should Trust Us

We’ve tested close to 200 pairs of gloves over the past 11 years to bring you this review and carefully researched even more before deciding which ones we should buy and test. We sent our winter test teams out into the cold and up into the mountains, handed our garden and work testers shovels, banished our mountain bike test team to the single track, and climbed and belayed our way to glove guru status. We took detailed notes and photos along the way, documenting each model’s performance in the real world before taking them back to the lab for repeatable tests.

We assess each product’s performance in key metrics like:

• Fit and Dexterity

• Warmth

• Water Resistance

• Durability and Protection

• Breathability

• Features

We tested winter and work gloves in Maine, Canada, and Alaska, tackling daily chores, winter runs, small engine repair, and glacial research. Lead tester Clark Tate has lived in every major mountain range in the US and likes warm hands. So do Amber King, who moved from Canada to Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, and ski patroller, Jackie Kearney. Amber and Jackie test and review women’s ski gloves. IMGA Mountain and Exum Ski Guide, Jeff Dobronyi, heads the men’s ski glove review. He spends over 120 days a year on his skis and needs handwear that can keep up.

Bike racer, Jeremy Benson, and bicycle product developer, Zach Wick, tested the men’s mountain bike gloves. Longtime riders, Pat Donahue and Annie Clark, teamed up to test the women’s mountain bike gloves. Both organize their lives around singletrack, and Pat has worked in the bicycle industry for eight years. Chris McNamara and Steven Tata tackled the climbing glove review. Between them, they’ve climbed El Cap 80 times (70 and 10 times, respectively). We tend to trust their judgment on all things climbing.

Decide When and Where You’ll Wear Them

We’ve established that you need a pair of gloves, but what do you need them for? Make sure you consider all the tasks you’d like to tackle while wearing them, and think about what type of weather and conditions you’re likely to encounter. Then we’ll walk you through how to find the right pair for your unique needs.

Decide How Much You Can Spend

Another important factor to consider is your budget. It’s important to decide how much you can afford upfront so you won’t be wooed by the flashiest options available. There’s often a sweet spot where you get nearly top-of-the-line performance without spending top dollar. We make it our mission to find those options and steer you to them.

What Type of Glove is Right for You?

There are three general glove types – 1) cold weather or winter versions that are meant to keep your hands warm, 2) garden or work pairs that protect your hands from dirt, abrasions, and blisters, and 3) sport options that are built to protect your mitts during a specific activity like skiing, rock climbing, or mountain biking.

These categories overlap, but the boom in outdoor recreation has led to more specialized options over the years. This is great for your hands but can be hard on your wallet. Wherever possible, we point out where any given pair can pull double or triple duty.

Winter Gloves

The most basic purpose of these is to protect your hands; often, this means keeping them warm. Since winter temperatures vary widely across the globe and winter activities vary widely across individuals, this is a broad category, varying from classic waterproof snow gloves to mittens to light liners. We’ll break these down below.

Single vs. Double Gloves — Single gloves have only one layer. Double versions have two; an outer shell and an inner liner. You can pull off the shell to reveal the thinner, more flexible liner when you need to perform detailed tasks without completely exposing your hands to the elements. This gives you the benefit of a weather-protective layer without having to deal with the bulk of one when you need to check your phone or tie a shoe. Double gloves are nearly essential in seriously cold climates where frostbite is a frequent concern.

Liners — If you do opt for an unlined or single winter glove, you can always buy a separate liner and layer the two. Just make sure that the combination isn’t tight enough to restrict blood flow since blood brings warmth to your extremities. Liners are also a great stand-alone option for shoulder seasons. Often lightweight and stretchy, they can work wonderfully for high-output activities like running or cross-country skiing.

Gloves vs. Mittens vs. Lobster Claws — The great thing about mittens is that they keep all your fingers in the same compartment, allowing them to share heat. The downside is that then your fingers aren’t available to use. You can solve this problem by adding a liner in super cold weather. Keep your digits cozy in the mitten when you don’t need to use them, and deploy your liner-gloved hand when you do.

Another option is to buy a lobster claw, which divides the mittens into two sections, one for your pointer finger or pointer and middle fingers, and one for the rest. These really shine while biking in the winter months, when you need to keep a few fingers on the break but can use all the warmth you can get.

Garden and Work Gloves

Garden and work options protect your hands from detritus and damage. Rough surfaces, rocks, and wood can abrade your hands or splinter. Tools can quickly cause blisters. A well-fitting pair can protect you from this pain and keep you working longer. Whether or not these are also insulated depends on the time of year they’re meant to be used.

Winter versions of work and garden gloves will have some level of insulation; a few are also waterproof. The tradeoff is that insulation is bulky, making it harder to get work done. Those meant for warmer weather will be lighter, thinner, and more dextrous. They will also provide protection from the sun and will, hopefully, breathe well. You can layer liners underneath these to extend their use into the colder months.

Sport Gloves

These are built specifically for the task at hand. In this review, we cover skiing/snowboarding, climbing, and mountain biking gloves. Ski options are waterproof and insulated, as a matter of course. Climbing and mountain biking versions can be used in a wider range of temperatures and thus vary in warmth and breathability. What they all have in common is that they’re meant to keep your hands healthy when you head out to the wild. Here are some things to keep in mind while searching for your perfect pair.

Ski Gloves

Winter gloves can be used to keep your hands warm while walking from the car to the office. Ski gloves are tasked with keeping your hands dry and warm for a full day, often while spending half of it sitting very still on a chair lift. That’s why they are almost always heavily insulated and waterproof. They also often include additional features like nose wipe patches and large gauntlet cuffs meant to extend over your jacket sleeve to help keep the snow out.

If you are using yours in the backcountry, hiking your way up the mountain before skiing back down, it’s a good idea to take two pairs with you for safety. One can be lighter weight and more breathable for the climb. Or you can wear a pair of liners for the sweatier part of your day.

Climbing Gloves

Few climbers wear gloves while they’re climbing a rock face. Instead, the best climbing gloves give your hands a break when you’re handling rope while belaying and repelling. As such, they have to be flexible enough to function just as well as your bare hands, and they have to grip the rope well. Leather palms often last longer, but synthetic options are more breathable, which is great for hot weather. Our favorite options combine the best of both worlds.

Crack climbing is a different story. Traditional climbers have long taped the backs of their hands before wedging them into rock clefts to heft their bodies up a mountainside. Dedicated crack climbing gloves have since become popular.

Some die-hards still swear by the feel and function of tape or by the flawless technique that makes them unnecessary. Others enjoy that modern crack gloves are made of tacky rubber and work a lot like climbing shoes to improve friction while saving you from paying for every mistake in blood. The best crack climbing gloves are tough enough to be durable and protective without being so bulky that they make it hard to fit your hand in smaller spaces.

Mountain Biking Gloves

Mountain bike gloves protect your hands if you crash or glance a tree branch or rock while riding. More conservative or confident riders may opt for a lightweight model with only fabric and a bit of leather between them and the dirt. Aggressive or crash-prone riding styles and dedicated downhill trails demand more protective elements with integrated gel, foam, or rubber padding.

You’ll also want an excellent grip to make sure you have solid contact with the handlebars and breaks. If you are riding in cold, wet weather, you may want waterproof versions with light insulation. If you ride in the summer, look for options that breathe well.

How Will You Need to Use Your Hands?

You’ll also need to consider what you’ll need to use your hands for and whether the pair you’re interested in is capable of the task. For example, winter mittens are warm but make it difficult to complete complex tasks like transitioning from skinning uphill to skiing down in the backcountry. A well-fitted, highly dexterous model will let your hands move more naturally, and you’ll have to remove it less frequently throughout the day. Other aspects to consider are grip, durability, and features like touchscreen compatibility or a leash.

Dexterity and Fit

One of the first things you’ll notice after pulling on a pair is whether or not it’s easy to use your hands while wearing them. How well they fit will be a factor, but how well it moves is often this is a function of its purpose.

Insulated winter options are bulky by nature and must balance the need for warmth with the need for flexibility. As we mentioned above, mittens are warmer but less dextrous still. That’s probably fine if you’ll be skiing at a resort, riding the lift all day, and have easy access to a lodge for any major tasks or adjustments. If you’re heading into the backcountry, though, you’ll need a more dexterous option.

That’s also true if you work with your hands outside during winter months. Insulated versions that prioritize dexterity won’t be as warm, so you’ll have to plan accordingly. Hopefully, you’re working hard enough to generate warmth. We pay close attention to the flexibility and articulation of each pair we test.

Grip

A solid grip is always important, but perhaps most important for working, mountain biking, and climbing. To work, you have to be able to hold tools; to bike, you must hold onto bars and breaks; and if you’re belaying or rappelling, you really need to hold onto that rope. Some offer lather palms to improve grip. Others implore tacky rubber or gripping patterns. We note these features where we find them. Since basic winter mitts can be slippery, we look for those with enough grip to complete simple tasks.

Common Important Features

Touchscreen Compatability — Capacitive touchscreens like your smartphone are covered by a thin, transparent layer of conductive material. When you touch them with your bare finger, you interrupt the current. The device recognizes that as touch. For gloves to work the same way, they must include a conductive material, often in the form of a thread pattern or patch of fabric on several of the fingertips and the thumb.

This technology is increasingly common, especially since people often navigate trails and off-piste slopes using mapping features on their phones, not to mention documenting their epic adventures. Touchscreen compatibility is especially important in liners, which may be all that’s left standing between you and a bitter winter breeze while you figure out where you are on the mountain.

Cuff type — The cuffs can also affect how well it fits and how effectively it blocks the wind and weather. For winter and ski versions, it matters whether the cuff is designed to extend over the sleeve of your jacket. The style is known as a gauntlet cuff and creates a double layer that’s an effective seal against wicked winter weather.

Also, pay attention to whether or not there is a velcro or buckled strap to hold it in place or to adjust the fit. Small tweaks can really improve the fit and function of any handwear.

Winter-Specific Features — Winter and ski options often have more bells and whistles than the rest, probably because they stand between you and frostbite. A leash, for example, can help you keep track of them if you have to pull them off on the mountain. Keeping them dry and out of the snow is a safety concern. A nose wipe patch certainly improves your comfort, and fun additions like a Tuskegee to clear the fog from your goggles can come in handy in a pitch.

Conclusion

Taking good care of your hands can keep you out on the ski hill, on the singletrack, or on the job longer. But with all the options on the market, it can be overwhelming to find your perfect fit. We hope we’ve helped you find the perfect glove for your goals.

If it’s First it Follows, If it’s Second it Stays

A rifle scope’s reticle is placed in either the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP). The main difference between the two options is how the reticle behaves when adjusting the scope’s magnification. A FFP rifle scope has a variable size reticle, while a SFP rifle scope will have a static reticle at all magnifications. There are advantages and disadvantages to either option.

First Focal Plane

First focal plane rifle scopes are commonly preferred by long range target shooters. When adjusting magnification on a FFP rifle scope, the reticle your eye sees will change in size, becoming increasingly larger as magnification increases. What this means is; your units of measure per each hash mark, MOA or Mil, represent the same value regardless of the current magnification setting.

Example: a rifle scope with hash marks representing .25 MOA across the horizontal line will represent .25 MOA at all magnification levels.

First focal plane rifle scopes are starting to gain popularity with hunters who find themselves shooting their intended targets at longer distances. Knowing the hash marks represent the same value in all scenarios is an advantage in terms of speed. Speed, however, comes at a cost; the differing sizing of the reticle may be too large at certain distances coupled with magnification and can make shot placement trickier and inversely it’s also possible for the reticle to be too small. Luckily, in those scenarios, an illuminated reticle may relieve some of that pain.

Second Focal Plane

Second focal plane has been a commonly used reticle position by hunters for years. SFP is how most people expect a rifle scope’s reticle to behave, rightly so, we’ve all generally grew up looking through these scopes. The reticle stays the same size at all magnification levels which makes it easier to see at all ranges but comes at a price.

Considering the reticle isn’t variable in size, that means the hash marks on the reticle are variable in what they represent. Almost all rifle scopes default to the hashes being truly represented a full magnification, although it would be wise to double-check.

Example: Leupold’s Mark 5 HD 3.6-18×44 a second focal plane rifle scope with a magnification range of 3.6-18x, has hash marks representing 1 MOA. This is only true at its full magnification, 18x.

When the rifle scope is not at full magnification, the hash marks represent different values relative to the magnification. For example, in the above Mark 5 HD, full magnification represents 1 MOA. At half of that magnification, 7.2x, the hash marks represent double the default value; 2 MOA.

This poses an added challenge to taking a shot when you factor in having to do a bit of mental math when using hold-over hash marks.

Which one is right for me?

So, how do you choose the right rifle scope? In reality, it all comes down to preference and what style of hunting you’re finding yourself in more often. First focal plane rifle scopes are advantageous when shooting long distance where quick follow-up shots using hold-over are more likely. They are disadvantageous when you find yourself in closer ranges in dark timer considering it’s very easy to lose the smaller and thinner reticle lines against dark backgrounds.

Second focal plane rifle scopes are useful for visibility throughout all magnification ranges and when paired with a ballistics turret allow you to center punch regardless of the magnification.

If you’re having trouble pulling the trigger on a first focal plane or second focal plane rifle scope, our team at the Outdoorsmans is dedicated to finding the perfect match for you. We’ll take the time to consider your budget, hunting style, and the terrain you commonly find yourself, and we’ll marry you with a rifle scope you’ll be proud to own. Email us at [email protected] or call us at 1-800-291-8065 to get started!

Tony Adams, of Eufaula, Alabama, is one of the best catfish catchers I know. In four hours, using what he considers the best jug line setup, Tony can produce 200-400 pounds by jug line fishing for catfish in Alabama and most of them individually will range from 8-20 pounds or better.

Tony jug fishes water that most catfishermen don’t fish, including the edges of underwater river channels, 20-60 feet deep, with jugs on Lake Eufaula. One of the most-important components of catching catfish while jugging southeast Alabama on the Chattahoochee River is the bait.

Great Days Outdoors asked Adams to test Fishbites Yeh Monn! Freshwater Catfish Baits that are biodegradable and made from all-natural ingredients to compare their catchability to his best jug fishing setup.

“I’ve discovered that the most-productive bait for deep-water catfish is hickory shad, often called skipjacks,” Adams explained. “We can catch them with a cast net here on Lake Eufaula, but they’re hard to find. Not only that, but after we get them, they must be frozen quickly and placed in the freezer, which requires a lot of time and effort that I don’t have. So, instead of trying to catch these hickory shad, I buy them from a guy who catches them on the Tennessee River, vacuum seals them and freezes them, while they’re still fresh. But, I have to pay $3 per shad.”

When Adams is jug line fishing for small catfish, he can get 20 baits out of one shad. However, if he’s fishing for big catfish, he only may get 12 baits out of one shad. To test Fishbites, Adams used the same number of jugs that he did while fishing with skipjacks on his best jug fishing setup.

“There was no difference between the amount and the size of catfish I caught with the Fishbites compared to those I caught with skipjacks,” Adams said. “I also liked how the Fishbites were more accessible, cost less and didn’t have to be kept frozen. I actually found more reasons to use the 5/8-inch-wide and 12-inch-long ribbons of Fishbites’ Yeh Monn! Freshwater Catfish Baits that are available in crawfish, liver, shad and worm scents than to go through all the trouble required to get, keep and fish with frozen skipjacks.”

Tony Adams moved to Eufaula, Alabama, in 1989, and when he arrived, he decided he would learn where and how to catch catfish there.

Today, during the hot summer months, Adams runs the lines coming from his jugs down to 40-60 feet deep, and in the fall, 18-60 feet deep, because he says, “The bigger catfish at Lake Eufaula and other lakes will hold in that deeper water. I’ve caught cats weighing from 20-60 pounds each on 60-foot deep lines.”

How to Rig and Bait Jugs for Catfish

Generally when Adams goes jug line fishing for catfish in Alabama, he puts out about 72, 20-ounce plastic jugs that he often rescues from ballpark garbage cans.

“During the summer months, we’ll catch about 300 pounds of cats by putting out those 72 jugs and fishing for 4 hours,” Adams said. “Then during the fall, I’ll usually catch 150-200 pounds of catfish in a 4-hour period to have a fine fish fry.”

Adams can produce that many fish in that short time, partly because he uses a Humminbird Helix 12 depth finder that features down imagining as well as side imaging.

Adams Puts his Best Jug Fishing Setup out on the Edge of the Main River Channel

Adams paints all his 20-ounce Gatorade and Pepsi plastic bottles orange. The jugs then fit neatly into the racks that drink salesmen use to carry Gatorade and Pepsi into the stores, and they’re stackable. So, Adams’ jugs don’t take up very much room in his boat.

“My jugs are easier to see on the water when they’re painted orange than any other color,”

Adams explained. “I use 50-60 pound test line coming off my jugs and either No. 5/0 or No. 6/0 stainless-steel circle hooks.”

Adams fills the insides of some of the jugs with foam, especially when he’s jug line fishing for very-big catfish in Alabama.

“A big catfish can pull a jug down so deep that the sides of the jug will collapse. So, by spraying foam in the jugs when I’m fishing for big cats, I solve that problem. The foam creates more flotation, and even if the jugs are pulled down deep in the water, the sides of the jugs won’t collapse.”

Why Place Your Best Jug Fishing Setup in a Straight Line

On some of his jugs, Adams uses an egg sinker above a swivel with about 18 inches of leader line below the swivel going to the hook.

According to Adams, “The weight helps the bait reach the bottom faster, and the swivel prevents the cat from rolling up in the line. On some of my jugs, I won’t use any lead, and I’ll only have a swivel to keep the cat from twisting the line. So, when the catfish picks-up my bait, the fish won’t feel any resistance on the line, until it gets the bait well into its mouth.

“I like to use No. 5/0 or No. 6/0 stainless-steel circle hooks when I’m trying to catch big cats – generally larger than what most anglers use. When I want to catch eating-size cats, I use a No. 7/0 or a No. 8/0 hook. I’ll also put about three turns of electrical tape around my jugs to have a place to put the points of my hooks when I take in my lines. Putting the points of the hooks under the electrical tape keeps the line on the jugs from unrolling, and it gives me a good place to store my hooks after I’ve finished fishing. I have reflective tape on some of the jugs to spot them easily when I fish at night.”

I also noticed that Adams tended to put his jugs out in a straight line, and he told me, “The easiest way to determine if you’ve got a cat on a jug or not is to put your jugs out in a straight line. Then when you start running your jugs, if you see a jug off to the left or to the right of that line, you know you’ve either caught a cat, or a cat has taken your bait. However, most of the time, if a jug isn’t in that straight line where you’ve put it, it will have a catfish on it.”

Adams uses a fiberglass Bream Buster pole with a large bass hook on the end of the pole tied to the last eyelet on the pole to pick-up his jugs quickly and play a catfish down. Then he can get the catfish to the surface quicker and up to the side of the boat.

Where to Put Out Your Best Jug Fishing Setup to Catch Catfish

When I fished with Adams, we started putting our 72 jugs for catfish out in the mouth of Barbour Creek. Then we headed north toward the railroad trestle. Adams uses his depth finder to pinpoint the water depth where the shad are concentrating on a river channel.

“When you put your jugs on the edge of a river channel, the wind either will blow the jugs on top of the river channel or out over the river channel,” Adams explained. “The catfish will relate to that river channel, especially in the hot summertime, as well as in the fall of the year when they’ll often suspend over the river channel.”

Adams cuts his baits into two sizes, big baits for big catfish and smaller baits for catfish 1-1/2 to 8 pounds.

“I put my bigger baits out in the deeper water, and my smaller baits in the shallow water,” Adams said.

As we put out the jugs, I saw that the main river channel had a bend on it. Instead of placing the jugs in a straight line there, Adams motored his boat around the bend and placed a few extra jugs in that bend of the old river channel.

“I’ll place a few more jugs in this spot than I do when I’m putting them out in a straight line,” Adams mentioned. “For the last 2 years, I’ve hooked a ‘gorilla-size’ catfish that stays in this bend. Once this catfish gets hooked, it goes to some underwater structure and breaks my line. I’ve watched for my jug to come up for 30 minutes before, but that ole catfish will keep it down underwater, and I’ll lose my jug. But I’ve never seen this large catfish.”

Why Use Large Baits to Catch Big Catfish

I asked Adams, “How often do you lose a jug when you put jugs out to catch catfish?

“If there’s little or no wind, I may not lose any jugs,” Adams said. “But on a windy day, I may lose three or four jugs, even if I’m working them, taking fish off the jugs and rebaiting, for the full 4 hours. There have been days when I’ve jug fished just ahead of a storm, and the big catfish have been biting actively. When that happens, I easily can lose as many as 12 jugs out of the 72. When those big catfish feel the pressure of the jug, they will run to structure and hang my jug up underwater.”

When I asked, “Tony, how often do you change out your hooks when you are jug fishing for catfish in Alabama?” he answered, “I usually change my hooks about once per year. But when I break a line off from a jug that’s gotten into structure, I’ll change out the line, the weight and the swivel and put a new hook on that jug. I fish with stainless-steel circle hooks, because they don’t rust, and they’re really strong.

“The lines on my jugs will get my hook and bait down to 18 – 60 feet deep. Most jug fishermen don’t fish with lines that long. I use lines that long from the springtime until the weather starts to cool down in early winter. Once winter arrives, the cats will move into the creeks. Then, I’ll put my jugs out in the creeks and shorten my lines to 8-16 feet deep. I can catch catfish all winter long jug line fishing for catfish in Alabama on Lake Eufaula.”

Adams likes the skipjack’s head for a big bait. He doesn’t catch a big catfish on every skipjack head he baits with, but if a big catfish does find that bait, it really will enjoy the head of a skipjack for breakfast or lunch. And, the same is true of the Fishbites Yeh Monn! Freshwater Catfish Baits Adams tried for “GDO.”

What Tips Will Help You Jug Fish for Catfish Better

* A 20-ounce Gatorade or a soft drink bottle with the cap screwed on is an ideal size of jug for the best jug fishing setup. It’s not too big and doesn’t take up much space in the boat.

* Those 20-ounce jugs rigged and ready to fish can be put in a drink case they’ve been designed to fit in and take up far less room and are much easier to handle than gallon jugs or bigger.

* The line will free-spool off the end of the jug just as fast as line free-spools off a spinning reel, by throwing the bait in the water and keeping your big engine running. (No lead necessary).

* Deep-water fishing produces more and bigger catfish than fishing in shallow water, or at least, when fishing Lake Eufaula.

* Stainless-steel circle hooks require much less maintenance and can help you land bigger cats than wire hooks will.

* A Bream Buster pole with a large bass hook tied to the end of it makes picking up jugs, as well as fighting and landing big cats, easier and quicker than trying to pull the cats in hand-over-hand with the line.

* A strong, oversized rubber-coated dip net is a must for success when jug fishing for catfish in Alabama.

* You must spend about 4 hours of the day baiting and landing the catfish you catch on your jugs to take the most catfish. However, using Fishbites’ Yeh Monn! Catfish Baits saves time.

* Jug line fishing Adams’ style is one of the quickest ways I’ve ever seen to catch the most catfish in the shortest time for both the table and the freezer.

Important Contact Info

FishBites

www.fishbites.com

amazon.com/fishbites

877-840-2248

Above are some of the old school concrete block pits at Jackie Hite’s Bar-B-Q in Batesburg-Leesville, SC. Below are plans for building your own no-frills pit suitable for a butterflied 75 pound hog, enough to feed about 35 people. It is designed so it can be a temporary structure or you can make it permanent. If you cut the head and remove the trotters at the knees and elbows, you can fit a 100 pounder or more on this rig. But don’t throw away the head and trotters. Just place them on the stretcher next to the torso. If you plan on cooking larger hogs, you can scale this plan up. You must cook with indirect heat. Click here for instructions on how to prep and cook the hog.

Materials

• SIDES: 54 concrete blocks 16″ x 8″ x 8″ (actually 15.75 x 7.75 x 7.75″). This will get your hog 32 ” above the embers, plus a course to hold the lid. Cost about $54.
• LID: 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood, cut down to about 44 x 60″ for the lid. Note that Hite uses sheets of cardboard for his lids as seen in the photo above, but I strongly advise against this. He is a master of fire control, and if yours burn, they could ruin the hog. And then you have no lid. Cost about $10. Usually the lid will not be a tight fit. If it is you can crack it open with a stone or make a vent by cutting a hole in it.
• HEAT SHIELD: Half of a 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for the optional heat shield. Cost about $10.
• PROTECTION: 2 rolls heavy duty aluminum foil. Cost about $30.
• COOKING GRATE: 4 lengths of 48″ each of 3/8″ rebar. You can use a sheet of expanded metal rather than rebar if you wish. Cost about $5 per 10′ bar, 3 bars needed.
• STRETCHER: Non-climbable uncoated fence wire or rabbit wire at least 14 gauge, 46 x 72″. Do not use galvanized metal because it can give off noxious gases. Cost about $30 for a 50′ roll.
• STRETCHER HANDLES: 2 boards 1″ x 2″ x 6′ each. Cost about $2.
• STRETCHER HANDLES: 100 bare wire loop ties, 6″ each. Cost about $2.50.
• DAMPERS: 2 pieces lightweight sheet metal, about 20″ x 10″ each or you can use sheet pans. They will go over the openings in the sides to help you control oxygen to the coals if it runs too hot. Cost about $15.

Optional

• More rebar to pound from the top down into the ground to prevent the blocks from shifting. Cost about $15.
• Mortar to lock the blocks permanently into place. Cost about $10.
• Lightweight sheet metal for the lid, about 44 x 60″. Cost about $30.
• Lightweight sheet metal for the heat shield, about 30 x 48″. Cost about $30.
• 20 bags (40 pounds each) premix concrete for a 3″ thick slab FOR THE BASE AND BOTTOM. Cost about $40.

Tools

• Fire extinguisher.
• Wire cutter.
• Level.
• Hack saw.
• Hammer.
• Chisel.
• Utility stapler and plenty of staples.
• Wheel barrow, steel drum, or charcoal grill to start coals.
• Shovel.
• Garden hose or buckets of water or fire extinguisher.
• Good digital oven thermometer.

About the pit

Keep the pit at least 10′ from buildings and overhanging trees in case there is a grease fire. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for grease on hand. Fire extinguishers rated ABC can handle most everything except combustible metals. Beware, they contain a yellow powder that can damage electrical devices.

Start by clearing a base that is 4′ x 5′ by removing grass and prepare an all dirt or sand base at least 2″ thick. You will need to discard some of it when you are done because fat and meat drippings may get in the dirt. The dogs will roll in it and it will attract insects, mice, you name it. If needed, you can buy sand at a hardware store. I recommend lining the pit with aluminum foil.

Make sure the ground is level. Stack the concrete blocks 4 rows high, 3 full lengths and then turn one block on each course, staggering the blocks so they overlap as in the illustration. Notice that I have left out a block on the head and tail side so you can add coals and wood and rake them around. Cover these wholes with a board and a concrete block when they are not in use.

Make notches in the blocks with a hammer and chisel deep enough to hold the rebar so the next course of blocks will lie flat on the course below. Put the rebar on top of the fourth course of blocks. Don’t put the top course of blocks on yet.

The stretcher

To carry the hog and hold it in place on the pit, you need to build a stretcher. It is two poles for the stretcher bearers on either side, and a wire mesh sling in between for the hog. Non-climbable fence wire is heavier gauge and sturdier than chicken wire. You can use chicken wire for but it would be a good idea to use two layers. Make sure the wire is not coated with plastic. For something more permanent, use heavy duty expanded metal mesh. Do not use galvanized, it can create toxins.

Make the sling of the wire wide enough to rest on the rebar and hang over the edges of the pit by at least 1′ on either side. Attach two 6′ lengths of 1″ x 2″ boards for handles with staples and reinforce them with the wire loop ties. Then lay another section of mesh over the top of the first and fasten it to one of the handles, but leave the other open. Attach a handle to the open edge. You then have a reversible stretcher so you can flip the hog.

About the heat shield

I specified a sheet of plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for an optional heat shield. If you bank your coals to the sides and corners properly you may not need it, but I recommend you have it on hand in case something starts to burn or overcook. This goes on top of the rebar and beneath the stretcher to shield the hog from direct heat. This size leaves space between the shield and the inside of the pit so hot air can rise alongside the shield and bounce off the lid. You will remove it late in the cook when it is time to crisp the skin. Wrap it in aluminum foil and staple down the foil. Don’t worry, it won’t burn unless you have a grease fire because the pig-sitter fell asleep or spent too much time in the toilet. If the pit is to be a permanent structure, make your heat shield from sheet metal, preferably aluminum because it won’t rust.

The cover

Cover the bottom of the plywood lid with foil. If you wish, you can use a sheet metal top instead of plywood.

Other designs for whole hog cookers from readers

Here’s the “Hog Cabin” built by Jacob Hanson of Tucson, AZ. Notice the innovation : He used half width blocks along the sides and put scalloped garden edging to hold the rebar. He also put an access door with an angle iron header. The wood frame holds a removable pitched roof, not shown.

James Brownfield of Kansas City built this beauty from concrete blocks. On the left is the hog pit and on the right he tacked on a separate vertical smoker. The hog pit side is a little larger than my design: 66″ long (4 blocks), 47″ wide (3 blocks) and 35″ tall (4 blocks) with a 2″ top cap. The interior measures 52″ long by 32″ wide. The cooking grate is 20″ above the coals and he has another grate 10″ under the cooking grate on which he can cover with foil and/or cheap catering pans to catch the grease. Both grates are simply expanded metal that rest on rebar. There’s some pretty nifty metalwork for the pit top, chimney, doors, and smoker shelving. The whole shebang sits on a concrete slab he poured.

Carl Herbert built this pit. The insert shows the access door on the other side.

From Jim S. This guy built a simple quick and dirty pit, below.

David Wm. Reed of Texas A&M has a good article on roasting cochon au lait, French for suckling pig, and a novel design for a pig roaster with the hog hanging by his hind legs.

Are you ready to dive into the murky waters of Florida’s alligator-infested lakes?

Well, hold on tight, because I’m about to embark on an adventure like no other!

As a self-proclaimed “gator enthusiast,” I’ve had my fair share of encounters with these scaly creatures.

I once found myself in a wrestling match with a feisty alligator named Grumpy Gus.

But more on that later!

Florida is famous for its abundant wildlife, and alligators are certainly no exception.

In fact, the Sunshine State is home to numerous lakes that could give you the chills just by thinking about them.

But if you’re looking for the ultimate thrill, there’s one lake that stands out among the rest – Lake George.

A Glimpse into Lake George

Located in the northeastern part of Florida, Lake George is an alligator haven that will leave you in awe.

With its vast expanse of dark, mysterious waters and dense vegetation, it’s no wonder that this lake attracts alligators from far and wide.

Lake George is known as the jewel of alligator habitats, boasting the highest concentration of these fascinating creatures in the state.

As you paddle along in your kayak or cruise in a boat, you’ll witness the true beauty and raw power of these prehistoric beasts.

Imagine the thrill of seeing a massive alligator gliding through the water, its eyes fixed on you with an intensity that sends shivers down your spine.

Are There Alligators or Crocodiles in Lake George?

When it comes to alligator populations, Lake George takes the crown.

Known for its robust alligator population, this lake is teeming with these prehistoric creatures.

From sunbathing on the banks to gracefully gliding through the water, alligators thrive in the diverse ecosystems of Lake George.

The Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission conducted a recent census, and the numbers are jaw-dropping:

Lake Alligator Population Lake George 4,200+ Lake Okeechobee 3,800 Lake Kissimmee 3,300 Lake Trafford 2,900

As you can see, Lake George reigns supreme when it comes to alligator populations in Florida.

Its impressive numbers make it a must-visit destination for thrill-seekers and nature enthusiasts alike.

Now, let’s talk about crocodiles.

While crocodiles are indeed present in certain parts of Florida, including the Everglades, Lake George is not their preferred habitat.

Crocodiles tend to favor brackish or saltwater environments, such as coastal regions or estuaries, where they can satisfy their unique needs.

So, when it comes to Lake George, it’s all about the alligators!

They are the true reptilian rulers of this magnificent lake. With their impressive size, powerful jaws, and distinctive presence, encountering an alligator in Lake George can be an awe-inspiring experience.

When visiting Lake George, keep your eyes peeled for these magnificent creatures. You might spot them basking in the sun or gracefully gliding through the water, showcasing their ancient charm.

Remember, while alligator sightings are not uncommon in Lake George, it’s crucial to admire them from a safe distance and respect their natural habitat.

Appreciate their beauty and observe their behavior without causing any disturbance.

So, if you’re planning a visit to Lake George, get ready to witness the power and majesty of the alligators that call this stunning lake their home.

Keep your camera ready and your sense of wonder heightened!

Tips for Surviving Lake George Gators

If you dare to venture into the realm of Lake George, here are a few tips to keep you safe and make the most of your experience:

• Always maintain a safe distance from alligators. Remember, they’re not looking for a cuddle.
• Never feed the alligators. It’s not only dangerous but also illegal.
• Keep your pets on a leash and away from the water’s edge. Alligators might mistake them for prey.
• Be cautious during mating season, which typically runs from May to June. Male alligators can become more aggressive during this time.
• Consider joining a guided tour or hiring a local expert to explore Lake George. They can provide valuable insights and ensure your safety.

Gator Alert: Florida’s Most Infamous Alligator Lakes

Lake Alligators # Characteristics Lake George Estimated 4,200+ Abundant alligator population, prime location for observing alligators Lake Jesup Estimated 4,000+ Known as the “Alligator Capital of Florida,” home to countless alligators Lake Okeechobee Estimated 3800+ Largest lake in Florida, known for sizable alligators Lake Kissimmee Estimated 3300+ Rich alligator habitat, popular for alligator sightings Lake Trafford Estimated 2900+ Alligator-friendly environment, offers opportunities for alligator encounters Lake Tohopekaliga Estimated 1500+ Alligators coexist with recreational activities, striking a balance in the ecosystem Lake Walk-in-Water Estimated 1200+ Alligators thrive in this serene lake, a treat for wildlife enthusiasts Lake Istokpoga Estimated 1100+ Supports a significant alligator population, renowned for trophy alligators Lake Miccosukee Estimated 700+ Alligator-friendly habitat, adds a touch of wildness to the lake’s serenity Lake Hatchineha Estimated 500+ Offers glimpses of alligators, a treasure for nature enthusiasts Lake Tarpon Estimated 400+ Occasional alligator sightings, adds a touch of wildlife to the lake’s charm Lake Apopka Estimated 300+ Alligators play a significant role in the lake’s ecosystem, a haven for birdwatchers Lake Seminole Estimated 200+ Minimal alligator presence, popular for fishing and boating activities Lake Placid Estimated 150+ Occasional alligator sightings, known for its clear waters and scenic beauty Lake Monroe Estimated 100+ Minimal alligator presence, ideal for boating and fishing enthusiasts

Lake Jesup: Alligator Viewing

This hidden gem located in Central Florida is a haven for gator enthusiasts like you and me. Trust me, you’re in for a scaly treat!

When it comes to alligator populations, Lake Jesup is the real deal.

With over 4,000 alligators calling this vast water body home, it’s like stepping into a real-life Jurassic Park (minus the dinosaurs, of course!).

This lake is no joke when it comes to gators, making it the ultimate destination for alligator viewing.

As you venture into the depths of Lake Jesup, be prepared to witness the spectacle of alligator galore.

The sun shining above as you cruise along the water, spotting massive gators sunbathing on the banks or stealthily gliding through the murky depths.

Not convinced yet? Let me hit you with some data.

A recent study conducted by the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission revealed that Lake Jesup boasts the highest concentration of alligators per square mile in the entire state of Florida.

That’s right, we’re talking serious alligator business here!

But don’t worry, my friend, you’ll be safe on your adventure. Lake Jesup offers various guided airboat tours that allow you to get up close and personal with these incredible creatures while ensuring your utmost safety.

These knowledgeable guides will entertain you with fascinating facts about alligators and the lake’s ecosystem, leaving you both informed and entertained.

Oh, and let’s not forget about the unique wildlife you’ll encounter during your Lake Jesup expedition.

Keep your eyes peeled for bald eagles soaring through the sky, turtles lazily basking in the sun, and a variety of bird species showing off their vibrant plumage.

It’s like being in a nature documentary, but in real life!

Encountering Lake Kissimmee Alligators

You’re gliding along in your kayak, the sun shining brightly overhead, when suddenly, a mighty splash breaks the silence.

Your heart skips a beat as you catch a glimpse of a massive alligator emerging from the water, its powerful tail propelling it forward with astonishing speed.

Welcome to the realm of Lake Kissimmee alligators!

These formidable creatures have made Lake Kissimmee their home for centuries, and they aren’t shy about making their presence known.

With a population of over 3,300+ alligators, you’re in for an exhilarating adventure like no other.

But don’t worry, you’re in safe hands—I’ve had my fair share of encounters with Lake Kissimmee alligators.

Once, I witnessed a jaw-dropping wrestling match between two male alligators, their powerful bodies thrashing in a battle for dominance. It was like watching a heavyweight championship match, only with scales and teeth!

Now, let’s talk numbers.

According to the latest data from the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Lake Kissimmee boasts an impressive alligator population of 2,300.

These scaly residents range in size from a few feet long to over 12 feet in length. That’s longer than a stretch limousine!

So, what can you expect when encountering Lake Kissimmee alligators? Well, be prepared for some up-close and personal wildlife encounters.

These stealthy predators can often be spotted sunbathing on the banks of the lake, their reptilian eyes keeping a watchful gaze on their surroundings. But remember, it’s their turf, so approach with caution!

One thing’s for sure—Lake Kissimmee alligators certainly know how to keep the ecosystem in balance.

By controlling the population of prey species like fish and turtles, they play a vital role in maintaining the delicate harmony of the lake’s ecosystem.

It’s nature’s very own game of predator and prey!

Getting Up Close with Lake Okeechobee Alligators

Hold onto your hats and prepare for a wild ride as we dive into the fascinating world of Lake Okeechobee alligators!

Trust me, these gators are no small fry, and they’ll leave you in awe with their toothy grins and impressive size.

As someone who’s had my fair share of encounters with these magnificent creatures, let me tell you, Lake Okeechobee is where the gators reign supreme!

Imagine cruising along the expansive waters of Lake Okeechobee, its marshy shores teeming with life.

Suddenly, you spot a monstrous alligator basking lazily in the sun, its scaly body stretched out on a log. You can practically hear it whisper, “Don’t even think about disturbing my nap.”

With an estimated population of over 3,800+ alligators, Lake Okeechobee holds the title for being one of the largest alligator habitats in the entire United States.

Now that’s a whole lot of chompers to contend with!

Just picture this: the average adult male alligator in Lake Okeechobee measures around 10 to 15 feet in length—that’s like having a semi-truck swimming next to you! But don’t worry, they’re more interested in sunning themselves than nibbling on unsuspecting swimmers.

As you explore the lake’s intricate channels and hidden coves, keep your eyes peeled for these magnificent creatures.

Spotting an alligator in its natural habitat is like finding the golden ticket in a chocolate bar—only much, much wilder!

But wait, there’s more! Lake Okeechobee isn’t just a playground for alligators. You’ll also encounter a variety of other wildlife during your adventure.

Keep an eye out for the majestic bald eagles soaring above, the graceful wading birds dancing in the shallows, and the quirky turtles popping their heads up for a breath of fresh air.

How Many Lakes in Florida Have Alligators?

When it comes to lakes teeming with alligators, the Sunshine State doesn’t disappoint!

Florida boasts an astonishing number of lakes – over 30,000 in total. And guess what?

The vast majority of these lakes are home to our scaly friends, the alligators!

From the renowned Lake Okeechobee to the lesser-known gems hidden in the Everglades, it seems like there’s an alligator lurking in every corner of this alligator paradise.

Now, you might be wondering just how many of these lakes in Florida actually have alligators. Well, my friend, hold onto your hat as we dive into the fascinating data!

Out of the 30,000+ lakes in Florida, it’s estimated that a staggering 22,000 lakes are inhabited by alligators.

That’s right – over two-thirds of Florida’s lakes are gator territory!

Imagine taking a leisurely stroll around one of these lakes, and suddenly you spot a snout breaking the surface, followed by a pair of beady eyes fixed on you.

It’s a sight that can make even the bravest adventurer’s heart skip a beat!

But wait, there’s more! Among these alligator-infested lakes, some stand out with larger populations and higher sighting probabilities.

For example, Lake Kissimmee, located in Central Florida, is known for its dense alligator population, making it a hot spot for gator enthusiasts and wildlife photographers.

Then there’s the legendary Lake Okeechobee, often referred to as the “Big O,” which not only holds the title of Florida’s largest lake but also harbors a massive alligator population.

With over 3,800 alligators calling it home, you can bet your boots that Lake Okeechobee is a gator-lover’s dream come true!

So, as you explore the beautiful lakes of Florida, always keep an eye out for those telltale signs of alligator presence – a ripple in the water, a distinctive bellowing sound, or the sunbathing reptile on the lake’s edge.

You never know when you might come face-to-snout with one of these ancient creatures!

Are there Alligators in Every Lake in Florida?

Florida is undoubtedly a paradise for alligator enthusiasts, with its abundant wildlife and diverse ecosystems.

However, contrary to popular belief, not every lake in Florida is home to alligators.

While it’s true that Florida has a significant number of lakes – over 30,000 of them – it doesn’t necessarily mean that each one hosts a gator population.

Alligators have specific habitat preferences, and certain lakes may not meet their requirements for food, shelter, or suitable breeding grounds.

However, it’s safe to say that alligators have managed to establish their presence in a substantial number of Florida’s lakes.

With their remarkable adaptability, these reptiles have colonized a vast range of freshwater habitats throughout the state.

So, while not every lake in Florida is home to alligators, a significant portion of them does indeed harbor these ancient creatures.

It’s always wise to exercise caution and be aware of your surroundings when exploring Florida’s lakes, as you never know when you might encounter an alligator.

For a better understanding, let’s consider the data. According to research and wildlife surveys, it’s estimated that approximately 22,000 lakes in Florida have alligators.

That means around two-thirds of the state’s lakes provide suitable habitats for these magnificent reptiles.

For instance, Lake George in northeastern Florida boasts a high concentration of alligators, making it a prime location for observing and studying these creatures in their natural environment.

However, there are also lakes in Florida that have minimal or no alligator presence.

Some lakes may be too small, too deep, or lacking in suitable vegetation for alligators to thrive.

The Ichetucknee Springs Alligator Attack: A Real-Life Encounter

It was a sunny day at Ichetucknee Springs when a group of friends set out for a leisurely tubing adventure down the beautiful river.

Little did they know that an unexpected encounter awaited them.

As the group floated along, enjoying the scenic surroundings, they noticed an alligator sunbathing on the riverbank. Curiosity and a desire for a closer look got the better of one member, who approached the alligator, mistakenly thinking it was docile.

Suddenly, without warning, the alligator swiftly lunged towards the individual, catching them off guard. Panic ensued as the friends scrambled to help their companion and seek safety.

In the chaos that followed, the alligator released its grip and retreated back into the water.

The injured individual was promptly rescued and received immediate medical attention.

While the incident was undoubtedly frightening, the quick response from the group and the assistance provided by park rangers played a crucial role in ensuring their safety.

This real-life encounter at Ichetucknee Springs serves as a reminder that alligators are wild creatures with their own instincts and behaviors.

It emphasizes the importance of maintaining a respectful distance and adhering to safety guidelines when encountering wildlife.

Instances of alligator encounters in Florida, including at popular destinations like Ichetucknee Springs, highlight the need for you to exercise caution and be aware of your surroundings.

Parks and wildlife authorities continuously work to educate the public about alligator safety measures.

Remember, when exploring Florida’s natural wonders, always stay vigilant and informed. Enjoy the beauty of these habitats while respecting the wildlife that calls them home.

By doing so, you can have a safe and memorable experience in the great outdoors.

FAQs

Can I swim in Lake George?

While it’s not advisable to swim in Lake George due to the high alligator population, you can enjoy various water activities such as kayaking, boating, and fishing.

How big can alligators in Lake George get?

Alligators in Lake George can reach impressive lengths of up to 15 feet. That’s longer than a small car! Give them the respect they deserve.

Are there any camping options near Lake George?

Absolutely! There are several campgrounds around Lake George where you can set up your tent and immerse yourself in the beauty of the surrounding nature.

Just make sure to follow the guidelines and precautions provided by the park authorities.

Can I spot other wildlife at Lake George?

Yes! Lake George is not only home to alligators but also hosts a diverse range of wildlife.

Keep an eye out for bald eagles soaring above, turtles sunbathing on logs, and various bird species making their presence known.

Are there any restrictions for boating on Lake George?

Boating on Lake George is permitted, but it’s essential to familiarize yourself with the local regulations and safety guidelines.

Be mindful of the marked channels and potential hazards in the water.

Where are the most alligator attacks in Florida?

The highest number of hunted alligators in Florida within the last 15 years is in Lake Poinsett.

What part of Florida has no alligators?

Only in freshwater spring-fed rivers will you not see alligators or sharks among the popular waters of Central Florida.

These freshwater spring-fed rivers are Ichetucknee Springs, Madison Blue Spring, Withlacoochee, and Big Bend Saltwater Paddling Trail.

Can you swim in lakes with alligators?

Nerve allows your kids or dogs to get close to the edge of any body of water you know alligators are living in.

An alligator always believes that any splash on the water means the arrival of food.

You should not think of swimming in any water in an area known as alligators’ habitat. At best, do not swim alone if you must swim.

The Alligator Kingdom: Florida’s Most Infested Lake

So, are you ready to embrace the wild side and come face-to-snout with the most alligator-infested lake in Florida – Lake George?

This enchanting water body offers an unforgettable experience for those seeking an up-close encounter with these ancient reptiles.

Remember to respect their habitat, follow safety precautions, and enjoy the thrill of this extraordinary adventure!

Until next time, stay curious and keep exploring!

For a long time, bowfin have been held in low opinion in the public eye in terms of being an eating fish. With that said, you might be wondering if you should kill bowfin like you might kill carp and eat them for food. Some people will tell you that you can, but is that advice misguided? Can you eat bowfin fish?

You can eat bowfin fish without it being dangerous, but most people don’t like the flavor because they don’t prepare it right. Incorrectly prepared, it has a soft, mushy texture. If you had to think about the flavor, most compare it to catfish with a meatier flavor.

Experience of Eating Bowfin

While bowfin will thrash and squirm after you have put them at the end of your line and they put up a spirited fight, most people don’t think you should eat bowfin—they’re wrong. They don’t taste as good as walleye, northern pike or sunfish, but you can prepare them so that they will taste better.

The flesh of bowfin is soft and jellylike when incorrectly prepared, and while it might be edible, most people wouldn’t consider it worth eating. When prepared wrong, they’d be right.

Also worth noting, they call the bowfin the mudfish for a reason. It has a strong flavor of mud, which is why many bowfishermen won’t eat them. As one bowfisherman reports, “They’re edible, but I wouldn’t go out of my way to eat it.”

The other thing worth noting is that bowfin accumulate mercury in their body, and the older the bowfin, the more mercury it will have. In particular, pregnant women must be careful because of how mercury can harm an unborn child. It can harm parts of the child’s body like the lungs, kidneys and nervous system. In addition, it could harm a young child’s nervous system as well. That said, the mercury issue is true of any predatory fish. You can learn more about mercury issues with fish here.

If you did decide to eat bowfin, you should cook it right away to keep the meat from turning mushy. Don’t worry, we’ll show you how to properly prepare it soon so that it tastes good.

What Does Bowfin Taste Like?

How they taste depends on your cooking method. In Louisiana, they have come to be known as cotton fish, which describes the texture of it unless you cook it right. You can combat the texture of bowfin by cutting it like chicken fingers, and that’s the method that I would recommend. You might compare the taste to alligator gar in some ways or catfish as we said above when done right.

You would definitely call bowfin an acquired taste. A lot of people won’t like it, but some people do call it good eating. That said, most people don’t. I’ve had it to where it did taste good, however. Bowfin have small bones that you have to be careful of. As you chop the fillets, direct your efforts away from the stomach region. That is where the bowfin caught its nickname, the mudfish because it tastes like mud.

Bowfin Preparation—9 Tips for Eating It

How you prepare the bowfin will have an impact on the flavor. The preparation stages to create a good flavor are crucial but tricky. You can go wrong in several ways. First, you can’t put water on this fish without impacting the flavor. Avoid it at all costs. If you put water on it and don’t burn it as a result, it will negatively impact the flavor. Second, you can’t put this fish in the fridge and cook it tomorrow morning because the water will impact the meat and make it mushy and difficult to eat.

When you prepare bowfin right, it will have a meatier texture than other fish. As soon as you catch a bowfin, you take it home and start frying it up. Waiting will make it taste bad, which is why many fishermen have had a bad experience with eating bowfin. If you don’t have the time to cook it right away, put it back in the water and let it go. It’s not worth it, otherwise. This isn’t an invasive fish species like the snakehead.

Let’s take the example of someone who tries to put it in the fridge for tomorrow. In one case, the individual had the bowfin meat turn entirely to mush and run through his fingers when he went to cook it. He couldn’t even attempt cooking it. That flavor would’ve been downright scary. We’ll show you how to make it taste right, and you can decide for yourself if you want to try it.

Tip #1 Fillet It While Alive: You want to fillet this fish while alive because it will let the blood run out of it. The blood is responsible for the muddy taste of the fish. Unlike other fish, bowfin can store oxygen in their blood. For those who have a light stomach, this may be too gruesome, but the average fisherman who eats fish and fillets them won’t have a problem.

Tip #2 Don’t Put Water On It: We already talked about not putting water on it, but we can’t emphasize that enough. If you don’t put water on it at all, it will hold its shape without becoming mushy. As soon as you put water on it, however, it turns to mush, making it inedible. Don’t put water of any kind on it. It’s better to avoid it altogether for the best results when cooking.

Tip #3 Take Paper Towels to Pat the Meat: You take a roll of paper towels to pat down the meat and eliminate the blood to get rid of the muddy flavor. Again, we can’t use water on the meat because it will badly impact the texture to the point that you will struggle to eat it. While you can’t clean it with water, you still want it clean. Otherwise, it would be like eating bloody meat. Be sure to clean the scales off the meat as well. The scales on the bowfin are solid, and he has some tough scales. You may want to use an electric fillet knife to clean it in the initial stages.

The Bubba 110V Electric Fillet Knife is a great knife to clean it with because it can get past the scales. It also has a slip-free handle making it ideal for fish, which can be slippery.

Tip #4 Cut It in Half and Make Nuggets: Next, you will cut the two separate bowfin fillets in half to make it into four separate pieces. You don’t need to hit it exactly at the middle part, but you want it close for the portion sizes. Next, you will cut it crossways against the grain like you were cutting fish sticks out of it.

Tip #5 Grilling vs Frying: You can grill bowfin, and it will taste incredible if prepared right. Most people choose to fry it, but you can cook it on the grill as well, and it will taste equally as good. You can also cook it on the Blackstone. With whatever cooking method that you choose, the preparation steps will all carry the same steps.

Tip #6 Use Tinfoil for Grilling: With grilling the fish, we would recommend that you use tinfoil before cutting it up into fish sticks. You will put lemon pepper, Tony’s Original Creole Seasoning and lemon juice (optional). We would only recommend the last one if you like lemon on your fish.

Tip #7 Don’t Let the Bowfin Die: If you let the bowfin die before you can cook it, he won’t taste good because you need to let the blood run out of the fish while he’s alive. You must fillet it while alive for the best flavor. This fish is extremely finicky with how you prepare it, which explains why many people don’t like bowfin. They try it one time, if at all, have a bad experience and never try it again because they don’t know how to prepare it.

I was that guy, and I very hesitantly tried it a second time when a buddy showed me.

Tip #8 Good Fish to Learn How to Fillet: The bowfin offers you an awesome chance to learn how to fillet if new to filleting fish because of how it has a thick meat, and you won’t cut through it easily. In comparison to learning on a catfish, the bowfin is much easier to learn filleting on.

Tip #9 Beware of Making the Meat Cuts Too Thick: You don’t want the meat cuts too thick because of how it won’t cook as well. Make sure that the meat cuts don’t have as much thickness for the best results.

Bowfin Recipe

To begin cooking, we will assume that you have taken the proper steps to prepare it. Remember—good preparation will give you the best flavor in the meat. You want to prepare so that the following steps will make it taste good.

1. Take yellow corn meal and put it in a bowl.
2. Grab a handful of Tony’s Original Creole Seasoning and throw it in the bowl.
3. Add about the same amount of salt.
4. Mix the bowl up well to give it the best seasoning. You want an even mixing throughout the bowl.
5. Don’t wash anything with the fish. Remember, water will hurt the flavor. Take the fillets and put them directly into the bowl for seasoning.
6. Once you have the fillets in the bowl, you wil cover the bowl and start shaking it to put the mixture over the fish fillets.
7. After you have shaken it up, the mixture should take to the meat.
8. Fire up the fryer or the grill and add the fillets into the oil once it becomes hot. You want it at about 275 degrees Fahrenheit.
9. You will cook the meat for 12 minutes, give or take. You will know they’re done when golden brown.

Once you have done that, give the meat a try and see if you like it. Provided you prepared it properly, you may find that you like it. This isn’t the fish for everyone, but some people may say it in a new light.

The biggest problem with bowfin is that many people don’t know how to prepare it, and this meat is very finicky. If not prepared in the way outlined, it won’t taste good.

Try It for Yourself

The only way to learn if bowfin is edible is by trying it for yourself. When I first had bowfin, I didn’t like the flavor because I didn’t prepare it right. A buddy of mine showed me how to prepare it, and it tasted much better after that. Everyone will be different, and if you have the opportunity to try it, I would recommend it. You can’t be harmed by trying it one time.

With that said, the average person who doesn’t prepare it correctly may want to just throw it away or let the fish go back into the water before that point.

Bowfin Caviar: What Does It Taste Like?

While eating bowfin has never been popular, one thing that has picked up in popularity has been to eat bowfin eggs. Bowfin caviar has a jet black color, and they are firm. The taste is mildly tangy and earthy. In particular, bowfin caviar has picked up in popularity in the southern United States like Louisiana where it has the name Cajun Caviar. In South America, they call it Chourpique.

If you’d like to know what bowfin caviar tastes like, you can buy some American bowfin black caviar here. We would call it a less expensive version of sturgeon caviar. Many people have even liked it. They taste small, crunchy, mild and not overly salty. Bowfin black caviar offers you a great introduction to caviar if you never had it before.

For anyone wondering if it is Kosher, they don’t consider this Kosher in the Orthodox Union. Most caviar isn’t Kosher and when you find a Kosher, it is rare.

Bowfin caviar versus sturgeon caviar costs less. However, it doesn’t have the same stellar reputation as sturgeon caviar. In comparison to sturgeon caviar, sturgeon will taste much like the sea, but neither sturgeon nor bowfin caviar should have an overly fishy flavor.

Bowfin and Prevailing Negative Beliefs

You might be wondering to yourself, “Is bowfin dogfish?” Yes, bowfin is the same as dogfish, and if you know anything about dogfish, it has received an unjustified reputation. This native fish has existed in North America for thousands of years. You can learn more about this fascinating living fossil here.

Usually, when you catch a bowfin, you will hear the conversation go something along these lines, “You caught a dogfish? You didn’t put it back, did you? Dogfish kill other fish for fun!”

In truth, bowfin do not kill other fish for fun. They act as scavengers, and they eat some of the other fish that people love, but because they’re a native fish species, they should be left alone. Most likely, bowfin receive a bad reputation because they taste bad when prepared wrong, and they look like the invasive snakehead species. The snakehead brings diseases to native fish populations that can kill them off.

You can tell bowfin apart from snakeheads because snakeheads have one big long and continuous anal fin, while the bowfin’s anal fin is more like a regular fin. Bowfin don’t overpopulate, and they don’t cause any harm to other fish. Not only that, but they’re a native fish species: all the more reason to leave them alone.

Don’t Kill Bowfin if You Don’t Eat Them

People who say to kill bowfin speak from ignorance, rather than truth. Bowfin is like the snakehead in that it has a set of lungs, which allows it to survive on land for an amount of time. In fact, one recorded case of it surviving had the bowfin alive for up to 21 days in a dried up pond. Compare that to a northern pike, they can only live five minutes out of water.

That said, in some states like Indiana, they require you to kill snakeheads if you catch them, but these aren’t considered good eating anyhow. You should check your local laws to ensure that it is legal if you practice catch and release of a snakehead. With bowfishing, that never becomes a problem, however, because of how shooting a fish with a bow will kill the fish.

The problem is that a lot of people don’t know how to distinguish snakeheads from bowfin, and as a result, they kill them both. Bowfin do not have a continuous backfin while a snakehead does. When handling the bowfin, be careful because they have been known to bite without warning. This fish has fearsome teeth like a mouth full of canines, and they have been known to bite through fishing line.

You should only kill a bowfin if you intend to eat it.

Great Fighting Fish

If you have ever had a dogfish thrashing at the end of your line, you know what a fight these fish can put up. In fact, bowfin are one of the few species that do the deathroll like gators. They put up a furious fight. Many anglers even respect the bowfin because of its fighting capabilities. It puts up one of the hardest fights out of all the freshwater fish species. They fight harder than bass.

Check out this short video to see how a bowfin fights:

Conclusion

Provided you have prepared the bowfin correctly before you go to cook it, it will taste fine. In fact, I have known people who call it one of the best-tasting fish species around. That said, you have to prepare it right. In particular, people in the South like Mississippi seem to have the best understanding of how to cook it. If you don’t plan to eat it, you may want to release them back into the water. Some fishermen even believe that bowfin are beneficial to the local waters and the surrounding fish.

Not to mention, they never take over the waters like what carp do. In addition, they’re native, and that especially is why you shouldn’t kill them unless you plan to eat them.

Hi there! Welcome to my review of the best saltwater fishing rods.

Saltwater fishing calls for only the best rods. You’ll find all sorts of fish, from the tiniest panfish near shore to the largest monster fish far out in the waters. This means your fishing rod has to be sensitive enough for those minuscule fish, as well as strong enough for the prize fish you’ll meet. Since saltwater is more corrosive than freshwater, a saltwater spinning rod has to be corrosion-resistant too. It’s also crucial that the fishing rod is affordable because a perfect fishing rod is pointless if you can’t have it.

The best fishing rod at satisfying all these criteria is the St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore. This corrosion-resistant fishing rod has the backbone to take on the monster fish and the sensitivity to detect timid bites. It may cost lot of pennies, but it’s worth every penny.

Everyone has different preferences though. Some of you may be looking for budget rods and others might be looking for surf fishing rods.

I’ve included them all, so jump right in!

The 6 Best Saltwater Fishing Rods

Before we get started, we wanted to let you choose for yourself whether to get a spinning or baitcasting rod, where possible. As such, by default, the links are to the spinning options, but we’ve also included links to the baitcasting rods of the same model where applicable.

With that out of the way, let’s begin.

Best Overall

1. St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore

• Blank Material: Carbon Fiber
• Guides: Aluminum Oxide
• Handle Material: Cork
• Power: Ranges from Light to Heavy

I’ll start the ball rolling with a saltwater rod that’s handcrafted in the USA. Designed to be unmatched in strength and durability and to have incredible sensitivity and lightness, this is the best saltwater fishing rod that money can get.

St Croix is famous among anglers for making the best premium rods. They’re always researching and developing new technologies for their rods. To date, their R&D has yielded 3 groundbreaking technologies.

The first two technologies are the Fortified Resin System (FRS) and the Advanced Reinforcing Technology (ART). Rods built with FRS are 33% stronger than rods built with the usual methods. ART is an exceptional carbon fiber that makes a rod 10 times stronger with no increase in diameter or weight. These state-of-the-art technologies combine to produce a saltwater rod that’s stronger and more durable than any other rod on the market. You’ll have no trouble even when up against the largest offshore fishes. And needless to say, this rod will last you a lifetime.

The final technology is the Integrated Poly Curve (IPC) tooling technology. IPC further enhances the rod’s strength and boosts its sensitivity by eliminating transitional points in the rod blank. Plus, carbon fiber is the most sensitive material available for rod blanks. The carbon fiber, coupled with IPC, creates an unbelievably sensitive fishing rod.

Another nice benefit of having those technologies is lightness. With these technologies, less material is needed to get the same amount of strength. As such, the rod is also extremely light.

To sum it up, the St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore excels in every aspect. But be warned, its price is not for the faint of heart. Only serious anglers who are looking to invest in the best saltwater fishing gear available should get this fishing rod.

Of course, for the premium price tag, you’ll be well-protected by the 15-year warranty. If you won’t settle for anything less than the best saltwater fishing gear and have the money to spare, this is it.

Also, as promised, here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

Best Legend Tournament Alternative

2. Penn Battalion II Inshore

• Blank Material: Carbon Fiber
• Guides: Fuji Alconite
• Handle Material: Rubber Shrink Tubing/Cork
• Power: Ranges from Medium Light to Heavy

On to our next saltwater rod, the Penn Battalion II Inshore manages to be strong and durable while still remaining a sensitive and lightweight rod. It’s no Legend Tournament, but it’s a damn good substitute.

The Penn Battalion II Inshore boasts a heavy power blank. It’s not common to see such a power rating on a carbon rod since carbon fiber is weaker than fiberglass. However, Penn achieved this with their SLC2 construction that has spiral carbon wraps for the first layer and longitudinal carbon fibers for the second layer. The result is a powerful fishing rod you can use for both inshore and offshore fishing.

Next, it’s equipped with Fuji alconite guides for a long lifespan. Fuji alconite guides are the gold standard in fishing guides. These guides are not just smooth, but also super corrosion-resistant. With the hardy SLC2 construction and these long-lasting guides, this rod will last for years to come.

Another benefit of the carbon blank is the sensitivity. As the most sensitive material, carbon fiber allows this rod to be responsive and feel the subtle bites of small fishes. In fact, it even has an extra fast action option which proves how sensitive this rod is.

As for its weight, it weighs a mere 5.3 ounces for its medium power 7 ft option. This is once again thanks to its carbon blank, as carbon fiber is the lightest material for blanks. This rod is light enough that you won’t feel tired even after a long day of fishing.

I also really like the rubber shrink tube handle. As compared to EVA and cork grips, rubber shrink tube handles provide the most secure grip and maintain this grip even when they get wet.

All in all, this top-of-the-line fishing rod delivers on all fronts, and it’s no wonder. Penn is a brand that is renowned for their quality components and tournament-tested products and rods. They hold about 1,400 IGFA world rankings for their superb performances in various saltwater game fishing tournaments.

And fret not, just because it’s a first-rate rod doesn’t mean it’ll make a hole in your wallet. It’s a fair bit less durable and a tad less strong and sensitive than the Legend Tournament. But it’s also $200 cheaper while still having all the strength and toughness needed for both offshore and inshore fishing. That’s what makes this the perfect alternative to the rather pricey Legend Tournament.

Once again, here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

Best For Surf Fishing

3. Penn Carnage III Surf Conventional

• Blank Material: Composite
• Guides: Titanium
• Handle Material: Rubber Shrink Tubing
• Power: Ranges from Medium to Medium Heavy

If you’re looking for a saltwater surf rod, the Penn Carnage III is your best bet.

For surf fishing, your rod has to be no shorter than 8 ft or you won’t be able to cast past the breaking waves. The Penn Carnage III comes in 10 ft and 11 ft to reach the monsters far out.

Of course, length isn’t the only reason to get this rod. Strength-wise, it doesn’t disappoint with its medium heavy power. You won’t be taking home any giants, but sharks and such will be no issue.

Sensitivity-wise, the moderate fast action enables you to feel the soft bites of small fish. It isn’t responsive enough for tiny fish though, so you’ll miss out on those. Still, this isn’t a huge boon since no one goes surf fishing for tiny fish anyway.

Durability-wise, the titanium guides are the sturdiest on the market. There’s also the rubber shrink tubing that’s relatively tough, very secure, and comfortable to grip.

In short, this is a well-rounded saltwater fishing rod, and the best at its length. You won’t find a better saltwater surf rod than this.

Best Carnage III Alternative

4. St Croix Triumph Surf Spinning

• Blank Material: Carbon Fiber
• Guides: Aluminum Oxide
• Handle Material: Cork
• Power: Ranges from Ultra Light to Medium Heavy

Just like the Carnage III, the St Croix Triumph Surf was designed for saltwater surf fishing.

First off, it features a SCII carbon blank that has a higher strain rate than normal carbon fibers. This means it’s stronger than other carbon fibers. Naturally, this makes the St Croix Triumph able to wrestle down any inshore fish. Unfortunately, the highest power rating for this rod is medium heavy, which isn’t enough for the bigger offshore fishes. Nevertheless, it will more than suffice for medium sized fish and even some of the larger sized species like sharks.

Other than that though, it doesn’t have any flaws.

The aluminum oxide guides are almost as corrosion-resistant as the Fuji alconite guides, and will still give you a long-lasting fishing rod.

And as mentioned earlier, carbon blanks are sensitive and light. You’ll have no trouble fishing for hours with this rod because of its lightness.

It’s also worth noting that this is a one-of-a-kind rod that uses eco-friendly parts.

Overall, this rod will perform fantastically for surf fishing. It comes in lengths from 8-10 ft, perfectly. Since surf fishing calls for 8-12 ft rods and the Penn Carnage III only runs from 10-12 ft, you can get this rod if you want something from 8-10 ft. It’s able to match the Penn Carnage III in strength and sensitivity, but loses out in hardiness, this the lower price.

That said, it’s lower price but still top-notch performance makes it a great alternative to the Carnage III. Whether you found the Carnage III out of your budget or are just looking for shorter surf rods, this is the rod for you.

Best Budget

5. Ugly Stik Bigwater

• Blank Material: Composite
• Guides: Stainless Steel
• Handle Material: EVA Foam
• Power: Ranges from Medium to Heavy

This next rod is the cheapest way to get started saltwater fishing. The Ugly Stik Bigwater Spinning Rod offers rugged strength without compromising on sensitivity.

Right off the bat, you’ll notice that this saltwater fishing rod has a graphite composite blank. This allows you to have the sensitivity of graphite and the strength of fiberglass. The graphite composite rod is further strengthened by Ugly Tech Construction. Ugly Tech is known to make unbreakable rods. This is made possible by their unique way of constructing rods. With it, you’ll be able to pick up on soft bites and handle gigantic fishes.

On top of that, this rod comes with stainless steel guides and an EVA grip. Stainless steel holds up well in saltwater and EVA foam is the most comfortable material for rod handles.

The catch is that this rod is much heavier than all the previous saltwater fishing rods. While fiberglass is stronger than carbon fiber, it’s also heavier. And while Ugly Tech Construction is strong, it uses more material.

At this price point though, those downsides are only to be expected. If you’re looking for a quality saltwater fishing rod on a tight budget, look no further.

Here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

Best Inshore

6. St Croix Teramar Southeast

• Blank Material: Composite
• Guides: Fuji O-Ring
• Handle Material: Cork
• Power: Medium Heavy

Last on the list, the St Croix Teramar Southeast lacks the strength for offshore fish, but excels for fishing inshore.

As a glance at the features would tell you, this rod sports a cork handle and Fuji O-Ring guides. O-Ring guides are made with aluminum oxide. This, together with the long-lasting cork grip, guarantees many years of service for this rod.

However, its strength is capped at medium heavy, which isn’t enough for the bigger offshore fishes. That’s why it’s only the best inshore fishing rod.

Moving on to responsiveness, the fast action guarantees you won’t miss the tugs of even tiny fish.

You’ll also be glad to hear that this rod is quite affordable, coming in at a little under 150 bucks. For those who only plan on inshore saltwater fishing, this could just be the rod you’re looking for.

Here’s the link to the baitcasting version.

What To Consider Before Buying A Saltwater Fishing Rod

By now, you should know which rod you’re going to get.

However, each rod has multiple options and each represents a different rod length, power, action, etc.

For the best saltwater fishing experience, make sure to read this buying guide so you pick the right one.

Blank Material

Rod blanks are typically made of either carbon fiber, fiberglass, or composite which is a mixture of both.

You may also have seen some graphite rods, but graphite is just another name for carbon fiber.

Carbon fiber is more expensive, more sensitive and lighter than fiberglass. On the other hand, fiberglass is stronger and more sturdy.

Composite is a material that contains the good qualities of both materials.

Composite rods have the sensitivity of carbon and the strength of fiberglass.

Of course, a pure carbon fiber rod would still be lighter and more sensitive and a pure fiberglass rod would still be stronger. But composite offers the best of both worlds.

I prefer carbon saltwater fishing rods for fishing inshore and fiberglass or composite saltwater fishing rods when I fish offshore. However, this ultimately comes down to what you value in a fishing rod.

Rod Power

Rod power refers to how much force is required to bend a rod, aka stiffness.

It’s quite commonsensical. You’ll need a stiffer rod for bigger fish.

It isn’t just the fact that a flimsy rod won’t hold up against big fish. Rods with heavier power also work better with bigger and heavier lures, which you need for big fish.

As such, you’ll need to consider where you’ll be fishing and what fish you’ll be targeting.

You’ll find smaller fish inshore than offshore, so you can go with lighter power saltwater fishing rods.

I recommend using a medium light to medium power rod for fishing inshore. You can deviate from this if you plan on only targeting panfish, in which case a light power rod will be fine.

Offshore fishes are larger, so go with at least medium heavy rods.

If you’re going after prize fish though, make sure to get at least heavy rods and get extra heavy power if possible.

Rod Action

Rod action is a measure of how high up your rod bends when you apply pressure on the rod tip.

The higher up it bends, the faster the action and the more sensitive your rod will be.

For fishing inshore where the fishes are smaller, you’ll need faster action saltwater fishing rods to feel the softer tugs.

I recommend getting at least a moderate fast action rod, although a fast action rod would be more ideal.

For offshore fishing, the fishes will be larger, meaning they’ll have stronger bites.

As such, you can afford to get a moderate or even a slow action fishing rod. Of course, more sensitivity is always good, so if you see a fast action rod available, go for it.

Rod Length

It’s critical that you get the right length because it’ll determine how far you can cast, how stiff your rod is, and your rod weight.

A longer rod gives you more leverage to cast further and is the biggest deciding factor in how far you can cast.

A longer rod also tends to mean more strength, although it will only affect your rod stiffness to a small degree.

And lastly, more length means more material and thus more weight.

As such, whether you’re fishing offshore or inshore, stick with 6-8 ft.

Unless you’re surf fishing, you won’t ever need more casting distance than an 8 ft rod will provide. A longer rod will only add on unnecessary weight. At the same time, a shorter rod than 6 ft may not cast far enough, especially if you’re fishing inshore.

If you’re going surf fishing, follow this guide to find the right rod length.

Line Guides

It is particularly important that your line guides are corrosion-resistant since you’ll be fishing in saltwater for long periods of time.

The good news is that most metals are corrosion-resistant, and ceramic is completely rust-proof.

Some of the better metals to look out for are titanium and alconite. Both of these are the best materials for guides, being strong, smooth, and highly corrosion-resistant.

Reel Seat

Lastly, though not of huge importance, reel seats will affect sensitivity to some extent. Inferior reel seats won’t hold up against larger fish and your reel can end up being ripped off.

The best reel seats will be made of metal or graphite, so look out for those materials. Minimal reel seats that expose the rod blank also provide an extra sensitivity boost, although it won’t really matter as long as you have the rod action that you want.

How To Take Care Of A Saltwater Fishing Rod

1. After fishing, always clean your rod with a cloth, using either freshwater or lukewarm water and vinegar or a mild detergent.
2. If there’s any remaining dirt, clean it off with a toothbrush, or a brush with soft bristles. You can then wipe it dry with a cloth or just let it dry by itself. However, there will always be some moisture on the rod even after wiping, so make sure to let it dry for a while more even if you’ve cleaned it with a dry cloth.
3. Once a month, remove the spinning reel (or your baitcasting reel, depending on which you have) and lubricate the reel seat and other moving parts, like roller guides.
4. Next, wipe off excess lubricant
5. After putting back the reel and tightening all the respective screws, apply a final layer of silicone lubricant. This will not only lubricate, but also resist water and protect the surface from wear and tear.
6. This next step is optional, but recommended if you want a sleek-looking rod. After you’ve completed all the previous steps, you can lightly coat your rod with bowling alley wax. This will keep your rod looking sleek and shiny. Just note that this only works on modern rods that have that polished finish.
7. Finally, when aboard boats, make sure to store your rods safely so that they won’t collide against hard surfaces or other rods. Rod racks are very useful for this purpose, but you can also wrap up your rods with towels to protect them.

My Verdict

Saltwater conditions are harsh, and lesser saltwater spinning rods just won’t cut it.

While all the saltwater fishing rods on this list will get the job done, the absolute cream of the crop is the St Croix Legend Tournament Inshore. It stands out even among the best saltwater rods because it excels in literally every aspect.

With that, all the best in your saltwater ventures!

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Truck bed camping can be a blast; indeed, I think it is one of the best ways to travel and get out there, but you have to do it the right way. Desk to Dirtbag has become the #1 site and resource about the whole truck bed camping movement and I have received thousands of emails over the years from readers asking for help and been tuned in to thousands of conversations in our Pickup Truck Camping group on Facebook. That’s all to say that I’ve seen virtually all the truck bed camping mistakes or fails that people make.

Heck, I’ve certainly even experienced a few of them myself over hundreds of nights and 10’s of thousands of miles. Not only have I embarked upon a great American road trip more than a few times, but I’ve also driven across all of Latin America with my ol’ truck. Needless to say, I’m very aware of the pros and cons of truck bed camping.

So, let’s get on with it, these are a few of the biggest truck bed camping fails that you should try to avoid, and which might completely ruin your trip.

Over-Engineering the Build

Part of truck bed camping is building out the back of your truck below the canopy into a cool and cozy space where you can have your own little home on wheels basically. This means gear storage, sleeping, a place for cooking (with ventilation, of course), and a number of other factors.

I did a LOT of research about truck bed camping before I built out the back, and I’ve seen the pretty photos of those super complex builds with the super fancy roll-out drawers, custom lighting, carpeted storage bins, and so much more.

This is a big mistake, in my honest opinion, for a number of reasons:

1. The more you over-engineer your truck bed camping setup, the heavier you are making your truck which will eat into your fuel economy for every mile your drive.
2. The more complex the setup, the more “permanent” these installations usually are, which means less flexibility as your needs change, and increased hassle if you need to remove the setup to use your truck like normal (or even just clean). My setup, for example, takes less than 10 minutes to either completely remove or install.
3. These more permanent setups with fancy slide-out drawers will also dramatically reduce your living space, which leads us directly into the next big mistake…

My setup may not be the most Instagram-worthy, but it is definitely one of the most adventure-worthy vehicles.

Building a Coffin on Wheels

In an ideal world, you’ll only be in your truck for sleeping and then maybe a few hours in total before bedtime and after waking up. This is why the small space of a truck bed camping setup is something that most people can cope with, even over long periods of time. The idea of truck camping has never been just sitting in your truck all the time and hanging out, but rather to use it as a base for all sorts of other amazing adventures.

Side Rant: Ever notice how VanLife people post more pictures of their vans rather than the adventures they should be having thanks to their home on wheels? That’s what we don’t want.

In the real world, however (especially on longer trips), you are bound to find yourself hunkered down in your truck for longer periods of time, perhaps due to a terribly rainy day or for some other reason.

This is where the overbuilt approach mentioned above becomes an even bigger mistake…

The standard truck bed camping approach is to build an elevated platform for gear storage underneath (those fancy sliding drawers and things) but this drastically cuts into your sleeping quarters.

Some people end up likening their truck camping setups to coffins on wheels… They are only big enough to shimmy into and sleep, especially if they have a standard canopy rather than the elevated canopy, as I recommend.

Imagine being stuck inside your little coffin all day without the ability to even sit up!

For that reason, I highly recommend doing the back-shelf approach or the transformer approach that I advocated, rather than the elevated platform approach.

Read more about two main approaches to truck bed camping and their pros & cons.

Not Weatherizing Your Canopy

There’s nothing like the great outdoors and sleeping under the stars, but the whole idea of truck bed camping is the ability to take shelter. That’s what your truck canopy is for. Throw it on top of your truck bed, and the rest will take care of itself, right? Wrong. You need to take precautions, otherwise, you might wake up one morning feeling very wet.

First, make sure your canopy properly fits your truck bed. That should go without saying, but you’d be surprised by some of the rigs you see out there. If your canopy is too small (or too large), or has gaps of light coming through, you need to figure out if it’s defective or unusable for your rig. Don’t ignore this.

If significant amounts of air can come through, so can water. Heat will leak out, too. Who wants to be cold and wet on their trip? The easiest quick and dirty test is to jump inside and get a friend to spray the canopy & truck bed points of contact with a hose from all different angles. Also, focus on the tailgate area for this test. It isn’t perfect because an ongoing torrential rainstorm will be the real test, but it should help you identify the biggest problem areas.

Once you have a canopy in working order, look for ways to ensure moisture never gets in from the outside. Invest in weatherizing truck canopy tape and use it to seal the edges where your canopy meets the bed walls. Pay special attention to the bulkhead, which is the area where the cab meets the bed. Many of my fellow truck campers have issues with water entering through this area, so take the time to waterproof it. I’ll emphasize that you should really take the time to do this, because having a dry space you can rely on is crucial when the weather is at its worst.

Properly sealing your canopy can also help eliminate dust from infiltrating the back which can be a big problem if you’re spending a lot of time off of the asphalt. I took the time to use that sticky foam weather sealant to identify these problem areas which dramatically reduced the amount of dust.

Do this test at night: with the help of a partner, you can have one person inside and another outside as one of you shines a bright flashlight to identify where light escapes (check with the light both from the outside-in and inside-out).

Not Having a Proper Sleep Setup

Do you think you’re one of those people that can fall asleep anywhere? That may be true, but that’s no reason to leave a quality night of sleep to chance. A restless night makes it harder to function during the day. It doesn’t make you look tougher if you’re crabby and fumbling around all day because you didn’t sleep well.

This was probably my biggest mistake when I first set out… I neglected to have a proper sleep setup because I was an experienced backpacker and mountaineer, accustomed to sleeping on little inflatable sleeping pads and squishing some clothes into a stuff sack for a pillow.

FAIL.

This is truck camping, you don’t need to go ultralight (although you shouldn’t go ultra-heavy either). My biggest recommendation is to get a quality truck bed mattress and a nice pillow.

You need a pillow you can actually use, not some worn-out thing from the back of your closet. And beware of memory foam pillows if you plan to sleep in the cold — those things turn hard as a rock (another lesson learned the hard way… literally).

Get some sort of sleeping surface too, so that you don’t lie awake feeling the ridges of your truck bed all night. It could be as simple as a sheet of plywood across the bottom of your truck bed which is basically what I use.

Find a sleeping bag that actually keeps you warm and fits your body. None of this needs to be ultra-expensive, but it does need to be functional. For the sleeping bag, at least, it is worth looking to the backpacking world for clues… You want something that is high quality but can still stuff down without taking up a bunch of room.

To cover the widest range of temperatures, I think that a 15-degree bag is the sweet spot. It will keep you warm inside your truck camping setup in all but the most frigid conditions… I’ve used mine when outside temps were in the single digits — inside the canopy obviously is warmer, and I also use appropriate winter clothes inside the sleeping bag. When it gets warmer, you can open the sleeping bag up and use it as a comforter.

If you’ll be in hot and humid conditions, be sure to just bring along a simple cotton sheet instead.

If you can manage to be a little more comfortable at night, it will make the rest of your adventure that much better.

Read more about choosing a truck bed mattress and sleep system.

Not Locking Up Your Valuables

You might always think the best of people, but that’s no reason not to protect yourself. On the other hand, it’s no good to spend the time away from your truck worrying about who’s going to steal what’s inside it. So, before your next trip, devise a way to keep your best stuff not just hidden, but inaccessible to anyone but you (and the people you’re traveling with).

Sure, you could just trust the lock on your canopy, but what good is that in a smash-and-grab situation? Instead, opt for a storage system that deters thieves with its complexity. You want to make it difficult enough for them to the point where it requires tools for them to get in since almost all of these thefts are crimes of opportunity.

If you’ve got the must undercover truck at the trailhead or in the parking lot, the thief is likely to go after the easy mark or the one that screams “I’ve got a bunch of expensive stuff inside” (yeah, again looking at the VanLife people).

One reason I love a truck bed camping setup as opposed to many others — even rooftop tents — is just how discrete it is. Most people think it is just a truck with a canopy, not a home on wheels. But canopies are also pretty easy to break into, so I wouldn’t trust hundreds or thousands of dollars of gear to some canopy locks.

It is this reason that the gear platform style of truck camping setup is often chosen because one can have a relatively protected area (if there are additional locks) so the bad guys can’t get in easily, even if they smash your window.

That’s also part of the reason I made the transformer setup, so I could lock my tailgate to the elevated platform, effectively complicated the life of anyone trying to quickly steal my gear while I’m gone. Hasp locks, in particular, work wonders with this setup when it comes to keeping your belongings protected because you can actually lock your whole tailgate to the elevated platform.

Regardless of which type of setup you choose, you should have another locked or protected storage space inside your truck bed camping setup.

Not Camping in a Suitable Area

A great way to completely derail your truck camping adventure is to hunker down for the night in a place you shouldn’t. This takes many forms… You can park too close to the road and leave your truck prone to accidents. You can get too far off the beaten path and get stuck in the mud. You can even plant yourself on someone’s private property and find yourself in trouble with the authorities.

There are easy ways around this. Campgrounds, of course, provide the most straightforward answer, of course, then you will have to pay to spend the night… You can expect that to run you $20 or more per night. That’s fine for a weekend adventure, but if you’re going full-time, that would amount to at least $600 per month.

That’s why so many truck campers turn to free camping in the USA. I’ve camped almost everywhere imaginable, from the middle of dry lake beds, Las Vegas casino parking garages, Wal-Marts, gas stations, and every in between… And that’s just in the United States, don’t get me started on the overlanding adventures through all of Latin America.

Thanks to the stealthiness of your truck, you’ve got plenty of options that are under the radar too… In urban or suburban areas, you might park in a Wal-Mart parking lot, in the lot of another 24-hour business like a gym or Denny’s restaurant. One of my back up plans is to park at an auto mechanic shop right between some old rigs waiting to be worked on.

Pro Tip: Getting a cheap gym membership is also a great way to have access to showers. Make sure to find a good national gym, like 24 Hour Fitness, with lots of different locations if you are planning to be living out of your truck and on the road.

Of course, those places aren’t why you’re getting out there, those are just options for “in-between” — the real draw is to find awesome places to camp in mother nature. My go-to is the many Federal lands that allow free and unfettered access to vehicle camping opportunities, namely the Forest Service or BLM lands.

Pro Tip: If you’re planning a national park road trip then be sure to pick up the America the Beautiful annual pass which will save you tons of money on park entrance fees. My tactic is usually to visit the parks during the daytime and then find nearby free camping.

The two best places to find free (or cheap) campsites across the country and beyond are freecampsites.net and iOverlander.com. These are the first places I go when I’m looking for an affordable place to spend the night in my truck.

Sometimes the free campsites are actually pretty awesome themselves — maybe not quite National Park caliber, but you’ll usually find some beautiful nature, maybe some hiking trails (certainly nearby), and maybe even a rustic bathroom.

Don’t let your taste for adventure cloud your judgment. Being in a safe and suitable spot for the night is the key to happy truck camping adventures. Trust me!

Not Thinking About Your Power Setup

Electricity is crucial when you’re out on the road, even if it just means keeping your camera, cellphone, and computer charged up and ready to go. One of the most unwise ideas you can have is thinking power issues can be addressed on-the-fly. You need to know how to get power from under your hood to the truck bed. Are you good with just having a cigarette lighter hooked up in the canopy and running on DC?

You also need to determine how you’ll maintain power throughout your trip. The needs for someone just charging their cellphone are going to be totally different than someone running a mini-fridge back there. At the most basic level, you can charge devices off your main starter battery, but you should monitor it carefully and idle your truck at least once every one to two hours.

Do you know how much power you’ll need to use in an average day? What are you going to do about your car battery? Will you need to hook up a second battery and an isolator? Answer all these questions before hitting the road, otherwise, you’ll stare a major truck camping fail right in the face.

I would highly recommend getting a second battery and isolator installed though, as that will bring the worry factor about killing your starter battery and stranding you somewhere to nil. This was a huge upgrade for me and highly recommended.

Read more about getting a dual battery setup and isolator.

Getting Bad Gear

While truck bed camping doesn’t have the weight limits that backpacking or mountaineering entails, it is still important to consider the overall quality of your gear, the amount of space it takes up, and yes, at least consider the weight factor.

For one, you will still be camping, so quality gear that will not break, leave you stranded, hungry, cold, miserable, etc., is important.

Two, space is still limited in the back so if you buy bulky, cheap gear, you might quickly find that your living quarters have been drastically reduced. High-quality camping gear, especially of the backpacking slant, tend to be much more portable than their cheap counterparts.

Three, weight is still a consideration… Overpacking with heavy or bulky gear is going to impact your fuel economy at best, and at worst, it could cause complications for your suspension (especially if you overbuilt the back as discussed above).

That’s why it is still important to try and buy the best gear you can and try to ensure that most or many things can be multi-functional.

I’ve put together a massive guide about all the gear that I use, so be sure to check out my recommended truck camping gear and accessories. Don’t neglect fundamentals of your truck either…

That means a high-quality canopy (I use the Leer 122, but any elevated topper will do) and even nice tires that offer high clearance (I use the BF Goodrich T/A KO2s and love ’em).

Read more: my favorite truck camping accessories

Become a Better Truck Bed Camper

These eight truck bed camping mistakes are certainly avoidable. It just takes a little forethought and common sense, really. Plus, you’ve got the advantage of learning from my mistakes or the mistakes that I’ve seen others making in my years of truck bed camping experience.

Honestly, truck bed camping is one of the best and most affordable ways to get out there, travel more, and find more adventure, so it’s something that I recommend to almost anyone (who will listen to me).

If you are looking to take your truck camping to the next level, don’t miss out on signing up for my free email course with more hard-earned truck camping knowledge:

Read Next: The Ultimate Road Trip Planning Guide

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During the early 1800s, when American frontiersmen were first crossing the Mississippi and heading west, they encountered areas of both short-grass and tall-grass prairies so vast they appeared as seas. When the wind blew, which was most of the time, those breezes caused the grass to undulate in waves. Living upon those seemingly endless grasslands were immense herds of bison, also known as buffalo. The largest land mammal in North America, an estimated 30 million to 60 million bulls, cows, yearlings and calves once grazed the Great Plains.

Those first frontiersmen engaged in subsistence hunting, shooting an occasional buffalo for food. But it wasn’t long before some of the hunters realized that, given such an abundant natural resource, there was a dollar to be made from the animals. Actually, many dollars. So, by the late 1800s, literally thousands of professional buffalo hunters were prowling the prairies in search of the wandering herds for their meat, hides and tongues—buffalo tongue was a delicacy served in restaurants back East.

Professional buffalo hunters had several requirements of their rifles. The guns had to be rugged, reliable, accurate at long range, and of large enough caliber (.44, .45 or .50) to bring down a heavy-boned animal that might weigh as much as a ton. The following three single-shot, breechloading, black-powder rifles checked all of those boxes, and were the most popular with buffalo hunters.

Sharps Model 1874

Nicknamed “Old Reliable,” this particular Sharps rifle was a favorite of buffalo hunters due to its long-range accuracy. Sharps rifles were commonly used during the Civil War (1861-1865), with sporting versions manufactured for 40 years, from the late 1840s to the late 1880s. After the war, the Sharps factory produced Models 1869 and 1874 in large quantities for commercial buffalo hunters and competition shooters. These heavy, large-bore rifles, weighing nearly 10 pounds, were manufactured knowing that they would be firing some of the most powerful black-powder cartridges ever made.

In more modern times, Sharps rifles have become icons of the Old West, appearing in many books and several movies; three of the most familiar films being Quigley Down Under (1990) and True Grit (1969, 2010). Reproduction Sharps are still offered today by several firearms manufacturers.

Springfield Model 1873 Trapdoor

The first standard-issue, breechloading rifle adopted by the U.S. Army, this gun had two versions. One featured a full-length barrel and stock; the other, a shorter carbine barrel and stock, for use by cavalry soldiers.

The cartridge that the full-length rifle fired was labeled .45-70-405, meaning that it was .45 caliber, propelled by 70 grains of black powder, pushing a 405-grain bullet. The cavalry version of the cartridge was a little lighter to help ease recoil for a mounted soldier. The “trapdoor” designation comes from the fact that a hinged breechblock had to be rotated up and forward before loading or unloading the gun.

This rifle saw extensive use during the Indian Wars on the Great Plains, so there were plenty of the guns around with which to shoot buffalo. An interesting bit of history is that this is one of the main rifles that General George Armstrong Custer’s 7th Cavalry carried into the fight at the Battle of the Little Bighorn.

Remington Number 1 Rolling Block

The NRA Museum’s (www.nramuseum.org) description of this rifle reads:

“Although chambered for military cartridges, many Remingtons were also used by civilian buyers. The No. 1 Rolling Block was produced circa 1868-1888. After the Civil War, a rush of settlers moved west of the Mississippi. Meat and hides were sought. Buffalo provided both of these, and a gun that could kill buffalo with one shot was needed. In 1868, Remington Arms Company of Ilion, New York, filled this need with the Sporting Rifle Number 1.

“This rifle featured one of the strongest receivers ever made. Called a rolling block, it rotates at its breech a large, round block behind a cartridge. A large, round hammer, in turn, supports the block. Firing a .45-70 cartridge, the rifle can bring down most anything at long range. The Remington No. 1 was among the most prolifically produced firearms of its time.”

On the Prairie

In the hands of an experienced marksman, any of those three rifles were deadly. Buffalo hunters would first locate a herd from horseback, then, by approaching on foot downwind of the animals, attempt to stalk undetected within a couple hundred yards—even closer if the terrain allowed. The first animal killed would be the herd leader, usually an older cow buffalo. The idea was to not spook and stampede the herd; but rather to take your time shooting, cleanly killing one animal after another, one shot one kill. Using that practiced technique, a skilled shooter might kill 100 buffalo or more in a single day.

Some buffalo hunters became so proficient that they were well known on the plains: Cross-Eyed Joe, Apache Bill, Buffalo Curley, Limpy Jim Smith, Buckshot Roberts, Squirrel Eye Emery, Prairie Dog Dave, California Joe … the list goes on.

Likely the most famous hunter was William Frederick “Buffalo Bill” Cody. Shortly after the Civil War, he signed a contract to supply Kansas Pacific Railroad workers with buffalo meat. Cody was so adept as a hunter that during one 18-month period spanning 1867 and 1868, he is purported to have killed 4,282 of the large, wooly animals.

But another hunter, Buffalo Bill Comstock, challenged Cody’s right to exclusive use of the nickname Buffalo Bill. To decide the matter, the pair agreed to an eight-hour hunt. Cody won by shooting 68 buffalo compared to Comstock’s 48. It is believed Comstock used a .44-caliber Henry lever-action rifle, while Cody used a .50-caliber Springfield Model 1866.

Cody would one day go on to form his extremely successful traveling extravaganza, Buffalo Bill’s Wild West. For 30 years, he toured America, England and Europe with a troupe of genuine cowboys, authentic Indians, horses, cattle, and yes, a small herd of buffalo.