You hear people talking about soaking venison in buttermilk. But why? Does it work? I tried it and here’s what happened.
For YEARS people have been telling me to soak venison in milk or buttermilk before cooking it. Any time I put a post out on social media about why deer meat might taste *gamey* someone always comments “soak in milk overnight. Works every time.” Honestly, I never really got the hype.
Prefer watching a video over reading an article? Here’s the full experiment I did on YouTube!
After all this time, I decided to do a controlled study. I took venison chops from the same animal and cooked them the exact same way: salted, seared in a cast iron pan, basted in garlic, thyme and butter, rested for 10 minutes, finished with flakey salt, pepper, and a squeeze of lemon. My variable was soaking 3 of the chops in buttermilk overnight prior to cooking.
Here’s what happened:
Why soak venison in buttermilk? What does it do?
People have been soaking venison and other proteins in milk or buttermilk for years. The claim is that the acidic or low ph level helps to break down the tissue to tenderize the meat while also ridding the meat of a powerfully “gamey” or wild/iron-like flavor.
I ultimately choose to work with buttermilk because it has a lower ph level than milk.
Why I was skeptical
I was mainly skeptical because of the marriage of flavor between venison and milk/buttermilk. It’s just not an inherently great pairing. My initial thought was “yes, I’m sure the acid in buttermilk can help tenderize the meat but wouldn’t you be better off using a marinade with flavors that complement venison? Like citrus or red wine.”. I’m in love with my All-Purpose Marinade (and still am after this experiment) so my thoughts were to stick with something like that instead of using a dairy product.
The thought of getting all of the buttermilk off of the meat before cooking also seemed daunting. One of my biggest tips for working with any protein is drying your meat with a paper towel as best you can before cooking to get a great sear. So, this worried me, too. But, forth I went to the kitchen.
How to soak venison in buttermilk
To soak venison in buttermilk all you need to do is grab a zip-top bag or bowl with a lid and totally submerge the meat in the buttermilk. I marinated overnight, but 4 hours or so should do the trick.
Next, once the meat is marinated, remove it from the buttermilk and PAT IT DRY. You’re going to use up a few paper towels (or kitchen towels if you’re OK with that). BUT DO NOT RINSE THE MEAT. Just be very diligent and pat the meat dry with a towel. It will be fine and actually didn’t hinder the searing process or leave a weird taste behind at all. (are you starting to get the sense that this worked well for me?!)
Next, heat a cast iron pan or grill over medium-high heat. I prefer the cast iron method so I’ll talk about that here.
While your pan heats, salt the meat generously and pat it dry AGAIN with a towel. When the pan is hot, add some sort of high heat tolerant cooking fat (duck fat, avocado oil, etc) and add the meat to the pan.
Cooking time will vary depending on the size of your chops. But, when you have a nice sear on one side (anywhere from 2-5 minutes) flip the meat. Then, add about 1-2 tablespoons of butter, smashed garlic cloves and fresh thyme to the pan. Tilt the pan to the side and baste the meat by spooning the butter and aromatics over the chops.
Once the internal temperature reaches about 115-125F, remove the meat from the pan. If you’re grilling just flip and grill on each side for 2-5 mins. You do NOT want to cook venison over medium-rare. I like rare plus. Trust me and get used to cooking it this way.
Let it rest for at least 10 minutes before slicing against the grain.
Season with some fresh cracked pepper, flakey salt (or regular salt – just a pinch) and a little squeeze of lemon. You’re done! That’s all there is to it.
Here’s how soaking deer meat in buttermilk works
The ph level in buttermilk helps to break down the tissue to tenderize the meat and aid in moisture retention resulting in potentially more tender and juicy meat. The protein found in dairy, casein, also binds to the meat potentially helping to rid the animal of a powerfully “gamey” or wild/iron-like flavor.
Does soaking venison in buttermilk work?
In short – YES! Here’s what I noticed after comparing plain venison and buttermilk soaked venison cooked in the same fashion:
The meat was more tender and retained more liquid making it plumper and juicer. The buttermilk soaked meat actually looked different than the control on the inside. It was visibly juicer (check out the video to see).
The flavor of the buttermilk marinated meat was more mild. I actually prefer the control group (plain, unmarianted) because the taste was fresher and a bit more *wild*, if you will. However, the animial I was working with was extremely palatable and perfectly cooked (if I do say so myself).
The meat did not taste poor due to being soaked in dairy! I managed to get off all of the buttermilk just by patting dry and there was not a residual flavor left behind.
So…Should you soak deer meat in milk or buttermilk?
Here’s my conclusion. Soaking in buttermilk can help if one of the following circumstances is true for you:
You don’t like the taste of deer meat because you’re not used to eating it and you have a bunch of chops and steaks to use up and you like beef steak.
You harvested an older buck or buck in peak rut and the flavor is strong. Or really if you have an animal that just tastes really negatively different to you (maybe it’s diet, lifestyle) from past deer you’ve consumed.
Something went awry with your kill and you potentially didn’t execute swiftly enough.
You’re cooking for a group of people who are intimidated by the flavor of deer meat.
Something went amis during the field dressing or processing process (and the meat is still safe to eat).
You just want to switch things up because you’ve got SO MUCH deer meat on hand.
All in all, I’m pleasantly surprised by the results of this study. Will I always soak my meat in buttermilk? Nah. Will I do it again? Probably! I was impressed by the tender texture it resulted in most of all.
Thanks for humoring me and encouraging me to write this post! What should I test next? In the meantime, grab a copy of my cookbook, Venison Every Day, for more recipe ideas!
We asked a top-tier firearms expert a fundamental question: What is the largest caliber bullet on Earth? The Barrett M82 .50 caliber sniper rifle is noted for being the largest-caliber rifle that can generally be owned by civilians. According to the National Firearms Act of 1934, calibers larger than .50 are not actually illegal. But they are highly restricted, and some communities and states still ban such firearms and their ammunition. Both the weapon and the ammunition are considered destructive devices under the NFA and therefore require a background check and transfer.
Certain historic firearms are exempt, however – notably the German-produced Mauser 1918 Tankgewehr, T-Gewehr, the world’s first anti-tank rifle. While it was chambered for the 13.2mm TuF (Tank und Flieger) round – which is .525 caliber – it is generally legal to own. (Check with local law enforcement to make sure.)
Other firearms must be rechambered to be fully legal. One noteworthy example is the British, World War II-era Boys Anti-Tank Rifle, which was produced as a .55 caliber weapon. When that rifle was offered for sale as military surplus after the Second World War, most were rechambered to .50 in order to comply with the NFA.
Yet neither the Boys Anti-Tank Rifle nor the T-Gewehr is the largest-caliber firearm offered for sale today. A common misconception is that the .700 Nitro Express has the distinction of holding the largest-caliber bullet – but that’s not correct. The cartridge was introduced in 1988 by boutique gun makers Holland & Holland of London, England for big game hunting and as a scaled-up version of the .600 Nitro Express. Single factory-loaded .700 Nitro cartridges now typically cost around $100.
Meet the .950 JDJ
When it comes to a rifle cartridge, nothing is larger than the .950 JDJ, which uses 240 grains of powder to push a 2,400-grain bullet at 2,100 feet per second (FPS). In addition to being the largest caliber on the market today, it has also been measured as generating 277 foot-pounds of recoil, or approximately 10 times as much as a 30-06 rifle. For that reason, shooters must use scopes, bipods, and other components that are designed to handle the force.
The .950 JDJ large caliber rifle cartridge was developed by American gunsmith and weapon designer J. D. Jones of SSK Industries. It has a bullet diameter of 0.950 inches, while its case length is 2.75 inches. Projectiles are custom-made and commonly weigh around 3,600 grains, or roughly half a pound.
Despite the fact that it is nearly double the size of a .50 caliber bullet, SSK was able to receive a sporting use exception to deregulate its rifles and accompanying rounds. It can be owned like any other Title I rifle by an American citizen at age 18. However, SKS only manufactured three of the rifles and actually stopped producing the ammunition in 2014.
Few may ever get a chance to shoot this rifle, but the question to ask is whether you’d even want to try.
MORE: Zumwalt – The Navy’s Stealth Destroyer Firing Hypersonic Missiles?
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A Senior Editor for 1945, Peter Suciu is a Michigan-based writer who has contributed to more than four dozen magazines, newspapers, and websites with over 3,000 published pieces over a twenty-year career in journalism. He regularly writes about military hardware, firearms history, cybersecurity, and international affairs. Peter is also a Contributing Writer for Forbes. You can follow him on Twitter: @PeterSuciu.
Broadsword takes the Barnes bullet for a spin. Is the original copper projectile that kicked off the lead-free revolution still the best?
Next in our line of lead-free bullet tests are the .30 cals on offer from Barnes in their Triple Shock X bullet range, which was introduced in 2003. These offer an all-copper bullet with a traditional hollow-point design in the TSX format, or faster expanding projectiles with the newer TTSX bullets with their polymer tip and larger hollow point format. Barnes offer a very good range of both bullet styles as well as variety of calibres, so there is something for everyone and every rifle type.
As usual we are trying to find a sweet spot where the lead-free bullets perform the same ballistically down range as traditional lead-cored bullets of the same weight, thus giving the shooter a viable lead-free option when the time comes – if you can get any!
credit: Archant
Bullet specificationsThe TSX and TTSX bullets are not the same dimensionally. Different bullet lengths have implications on load density and accuracy as well as overall cartridge length, but we will discuss that in future articles. At present I am trying to load like for like to see the similarities and differences.
TSXThis is the original Triple Shock-style bullet from Barnes, with an all-copper construction available in flat base and boat tail designs. The 110gr TSX weighs 110.2gr, is 0.9540″ long, 0.3070″ in diameter, and has two smooth cannelure/pressure rings called Accu-Grooves and a flat base. The hollow point is very neat and uniform, and when sectioned can be seen to extend 0.4250″ into the bullet – but it is very narrow, as is the opening. This bullet has a sectional density (SD) of 0.166 and ballistic coefficient (BC) of 0.264, with an overall length of 0.955″.The 130gr TSX weighs 130.6gr, is 1.0860″ long with the same 0.3070″ diameter, Accu-Grooves and hollow point design, but this time with a slight boat-tail base. The SD is good at 0.196, as is the BC at 0.340 G1 – a very nice blend of values.The 150gr TSX as expected is 1.2365″ long, with a more obvious boat tail, and the same hollow point and diameter as the others, but with three Accu-Grooves to relieve stress/friction and fouling. A decent SD of 0.226 helps penetration and the BC of 0.369 value helps retain energy with a more streamlined flight.
credit: Archant
credit: Archant
credit: Archant
TTSXThis is essentially the TSX bullet with an added tip for better aerodynamics, hence the enhanced BC values as well as better terminal expansion with its redesigned nose cavity.There is a 130gr TTSX bullet option but I could not get any for the tests. The 110gr TTSX weighs 110.4gr and is 1.0425″ long with a diameter of 0.3060″. It has a flat base, two Accu-Grooves and a large blue polymer tip 0.1825″ long and 0.1465″ in diameter, giving a better overall hollow point than the TSX bullet. When sectioned, the bullets have a larger hollow point channel for nearly half their overall length. The sectional density is the same as in the TSX with the same weight obviously but the BC has increased to 0.295 due to the more streamline tipped bullet meplat.The TTSX 150gr bullet weighs 151.0gr and is 1.3015″ long and again slimmer than the TSX bullets at 0.3060″, which is slightly curious. There are Accu-Grooves, resulting in three distinct riding rings and there is a shallow boat tail and the same polymer tip as on the 110gr TTSX. The 110gr TTSX’s SD of 0.226 is identical to the same weight TSX version but the polymer tip boosts the BC to 0.420 – a sizeable improvement over the 0.369 for the same weight TSX bullet.Standing the bullets side by side, you can instantly see the differences in height and overall aerodynamic design despite having the same weights. Most of this is the extra tip of the TTSX bullets, but the cannelure positioning is also different. Because the hollow points and expansion channel are bigger on the TTSX, the bullet has to be longer to achieve the same weight as the TSX bullet. A separate article on OAL/accuracy for all bullets tested will appear in a subsequent issue.
credit: Archant
credit: Archant
ReloadsI tested the Barnes bullets the same day as the Nosler lead-free E-Tips in a previous article, and therefore used the same control sample of Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets as a comparison for lead-cored bullet performance. The numbers in brackets are the Harrell Premium Culver powder values I use for instant powder measuring. I tried to match the velocities as best I could to get a true reflection of each bullet’s down-range performance.
credit: Archant
ResultsWe are trying to see what weight a Barnes bullet needs to be to achieve the same wound channel and expansion/penetration as a corresponding weight traditional lead-cored bullet.
Ballistically the TSX and TTSX were similar to the Nosler Ballistic Tip control group when loaded with the same powder/primer, etc. But as always, the harder Barnes gave at least 50fps faster velocities. A lead-cored bullet’s jacket gives a little when travelling down the bore, while the solid-cored Barnes are more rigid, causing a pressure increase and thus more velocity. That’s why the TSX and TTSX have cannelures to relieve the pressure a little and reduce copper fouling in the bore as the rifling engages the riding bands.
Interestingly the TSX bullets all have a 0.3070″ diameter and the TTSX even smaller at 0.3060″, again to reduce friction. All the bullets retained near as damn it 100% of their weight plus a bit of media.
Now the interesting part regarding down range performance. The TSX bullets expanded very well; they always do, despite that small hollow point aperture and channel. The 110gr bullet expanded to 0.6666″, doubling its size – beastly! The 130gr TSX expanded to 0.6540″ and the larger 150gr TSX to 0.6440″; all impressive. This translates down range to good terminal ballistics. The 110gr TSX penetrated to 8.75″ with a wound channel of 5.0″, maximum width of 1.45″ and volume of 110ml. That’s almost the same as the 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tip at 120ml volume. Looking good.
The heavier 130gr TSX penetrated further, to 9.75″, with a wound channel of 4.75″, maximum width of 1.35″ and volume of 130ml – very good indeed. The 150gr TSX penetrated the most at 12.5″, with a wound channel of 4.75″, max width of 1.75″ and 100ml in the medium.
To me this proves that going lighter to 110gr or 130gr in a lead-free bullet is needed to replicate your older 150gr traditional 0.308 bullet loads with the TSX bullets tested. The 130gr looks very interesting, with a good blend of penetration and expansion, as well as excellent wound volume. I use them in my .30-47L rifle.
Next up the TTSX bullets. Will these tipped projectiles prove a point? The 110gr TTSX actually penetrated further than the same weight TSX bullets at 9.25″ and gave an impressive 5.75″ wound channel with a maximum width of 1.75″, resulting in a whopping 180ml volume. That’s 10ml more than the control Nosler Ballistic Tip 125gr bullet at nearly the same velocity. Impressive.
Again there was 100% weight retention and bullet expansion was an amazing 0.6890″, up from 0.3060″. The 150gr TTSX also impressed as it penetrated the most at 11.25″. I thought it would expand more with the better hollow point like its 110gr sibling, but still managed a 0.5915″ bullet diameter. The wound channel was impressive, recording a wound channel of 6.15″, maximum width of 2.00″ and 140ml volume.
You should also note that the larger projectile weights carried their wound channels in a linear line for longer, but outside the critical test media and thus animal body cavity. We don’t need total penetration in the UK, although our American cousins do seem to be obsessed with it.
It was also interesting to see the blue polymer tip being fragmented almost at the start of the wound channel to begin the initial expansion of the TTSX bullets. Again, note how clean the wound channels are with these Barnes bullets. You can see how the bullet rotates in flight as the medium has a definite swirl to its inner profile. People forget that a bullet’s rotation also helps to dissipate energy for a quick dispatch on game. There was no wandering of the bullets through the medium with either and these Barnes shot very true in flight.
Before the tests began, I would have said to go with the 110gr TSX or TTSX if you wanted the same performance as a normal lead-cored 150gr .30 cal bullet. That is still true. Look at the 110gr TSX’s 110ml volume and that amazing tipped TTSX 110gr bullet, which at the same velocity as the TSX gave 70ml more wound volume in the same area.
The 130gr bullet, as discussed, would be a good lead-free all-rounder for penetration and performance. I have to admit I was expecting more from the 150gr TTSX, having seen its smaller brother perform so, well but a 140ml wound channel is still 20ml more than a conventional 150gr ballistic tip. Which when you think of it means that a Barnes TTSX at 150gr mimics the traditional 150gr lead-cored control bullet weight for weight. Ah ha! We might be on to something!
credit: Archant
ConclusionsOf the lead-free projectiles tested thus far, these offerings from Barnes seem to deliver good consistent performance. The lighter bullets give the desired combination of wound channel and volume within a more confined space – i.e. there is less penetration, which means the bullet’s energy is dumped inside the beast without over-penetration, which has always been a problem with some lead-free bullets. Also, the tipped TTSX Barnes would definitely seem to offer a very good expanding lead-free option if you still want to retain the same weight bullet that you usually use in your rifle.
I would say from a purely subjective view point that there might be some light at the end of the tunnel with regard to changing over from lead to non-lead projectiles. The trouble is supply and demand, as prices are high even if you can buy them to test. Also, as we will explore in future articles, the issues regarding load density, seating depth and rifling twist for best accuracy, make this a whole new ball game!
This delicious pan-seared rockfish is made with fish seared in butter and oil, and then served with a lemon and caper pan sauce.
This year has had its ups and downs, but for us there has been one constant.
We’ve had a freezer full of amazing seafood.
Since we knew we’d be home (not traveling) for quite some time, we signed up for monthly seafood deliveries from a CSF (community supported fishery).
And guys, it’s made the year a little bit easier.
If you’re looking for a CSF to join, I can highly recommend the one we joined, Sitka Salmon Shares.
One of our monthly fish deliveries included black rockfish (or black bass). We immediately made blackened rockfish tacos (yum!), but next I wanted to try a recipe where I could taste the rockfish more clearly.
This pan-seared rockfish is based on one of my all-time favorite fish recipes, Julia Child’s fish meunière (fish in butter sauce), and is served with an easy lemon caper sauce.
Looking for more white fish recipes? Try these: pan-seared lingcod, baked lingcod with tomato caper sauce, broiled cod, broiled halibut, pan-seared halibut, pan-seared hake, and halibut tacos.
Selecting the appropriate travel bow case for your next trip is an important step for flying with your archery equipment. When purchasing your case, be sure to take into consideration the type of bow that will fit the case (hunting compound, takedown recurve, etc.), and how you will be using the case. Will it be getting abuse in the bag of pickup truck on bumpy off-road trails, or have a comfy spot inside a minivan?
You will have to decide between a soft-side and hard-sided case. For air travel, what with the way baggage is treated these days, a hard-sided cases is usually the better way to go as it offers the ultimate protection for your bow and quiver, and typically offers options for lockability. Soft cases are more comfortable to handle, may not withstand the abuse that can be dished upon your bow case by the luggage handlers at the airport.
Here we have compiled a quick list of highly-rated travel bow cases. All of these cases have been highly recommended and are some of the best-selling bow cases to be found on the market today.
List of Recommended Items in This Article
Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case
Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Cas
Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case
SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case
Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Safeshot Compound Bow Case
Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case
The Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case is well-built solid archery travel case, providing protection for 1 bow and up to 12 arrows in a rubber stacking system. We’re big fans of the structural pillars that prevent the case from getting crushed, offering additional protection for your bow.
A big feature of the Flambeau Safeshot are the multiple closing latches and multiple lock hasps for additional security, especially when travelling.
View the Flambeau Outdoors 6461SC Archery Safeshot Compound Bow Case on Amazon
SKB iSeries 3i 4214 PL Parallel Limb Bow Case
SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case
The SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case offers a rugged ultra high-strength waterproof, dustproof, immersion-proof construction for maximum protection. This case features an automatic pressure equalization valve great for air travel, and multiple re-inforced padlock locations keep your bow secure.
The SKB is on the heavier side of these travel cases, but if spending $1600 on a bow, you want maximum protection when you travel. We appreciate that this case has built-in wheels for rolling around the airport with ease.
Buy the SKB 3I 4214 PL iSeries 4214 Parallel Limb Bow Case on Amazon
Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case
Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case
Plano is a well-know name in the sportsman world, and the Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case offers everything you would expect. The tight-fitting closure with dri-loc gasket keeps out water and dust, and multiple lock locations keep your bow secure.
The inline wheels glide well through the airport, and the customizable foam inside will keep your bow safely in place while travelling. The arrow storage on the upper flap offers convenience and quick easy access. Like the SKB iSeries, the Plano Fieldlocker also offers a built-in pressure release valve to equalize on the go with changes in altitude.
View the Plano Mil Spec Fieldlocker Compound Bow Case on Amazon
Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case
Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case
The Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case is a heavy-duty, air-tight padlockable case that fits your bow and 12 arrows (no quiver). Multiple padlock locations keep your bow latched and safe at home and on the go, and the silica gel canister inside absorbs any humidity that may be inside.
It is a fairly heavy case, but offers maximum protection for all of your gear. In-built wheels make it easy to get around the airport, and it’s crush-proof design will handle any abuse the luggage handlers can throw at it. There is a reason why this case has earned a 4.6/5 star rating on Amazon.
Shop the Case Club Waterproof Parallel Limb Compound Bow Case on Amazon
Related Pages…
Full Listing of Archery Equipment – Bows and Arrows Policies of 300+ Airlines
If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 22LR scopes:
Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire: Best Overall 22LR Scope
Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire: Best Close-to-Medium Range Scope
Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32: Best Short-range Varmint Hunting
Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range 22LR Scope
1. Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire: Best Overall 22LR Scope
The Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire is the best overall 22LR scope.
I’ve used it for hunting, target shooting, night time hunting and more.
What makes it so versatile?
Keep reading and I’ll show you…
Glass Clarity & Reticle
Here’s the thing:
When a scope is positioned at a low price point like the Leupold Freedom Rimfire, it usually equates to reduced quality.
But that’s wasn’t the case here.
In fact, the glass on this scope is just as crisp and clear as the glass used on more expensive Leupold sights.
It’s also great in low light conditions, making the visibility problems I usually face with early morning shooting nonexistent.
But what about the reticle?
It’s a standard duplex reticle set in the second focal plane.
This allows you to have a strong and easy to see reticle at all magnifications.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
It has a whopping 4.1” of eye relief!
That’s more than any other scope on this list.
The best part?
You can shoot with both eyes open, and accurately hit your target without worrying about getting a black eye 🙂
Durability & Weight
The VX-Freedom Rimfire is well built.
It’s crafted with lightweight aluminum that is O-ring sealed and nitrogen purged.
In other words:
It’s completely shockproof, waterproof and fogproof.
In the dead of winter, with snow actively falling, I didn’t have a single temperature or fog related problem.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The dials worked correctly, and are set at ¼ MOA with audible clicks to ensure precision.
However, the knobs feel cheap. The plastic used on the knobs is soft and feels like something you find in a dollar store.
Don’t get me wrong:
The knobs work fine and do exactly what they are supposed to do. I just wish Leupold used a higher quality plastic or even aluminum for the knob.
That being said, they are accurate, easy to use and track true. It’s also easy to zero, and holds zero even with strong recoil or accidental drops.
Magnification & Parallax
The 1.5-4x magnification is perfect for hunting and target shooting.
In fact, I’ve used it up to 200 yards without a problem. Further than that would require more magnification. I’d recommend checking out myVortex Viper HST 4-16×44 Review.
Although parallax is fixed, I experienced no blurriness or fuzziness when shooting within 100 yards.
Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire Review: Is It Worth It?
If you’re looking for the best overall 22 LR scope that will work in almost any situation, then the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire is for you.
Here’s why. It’s:
Affordable
Clear glass
Lightweight
Works well in low light
Short-to-medium range magnification
In short:
The Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire Riflescope is budget friendly and easy to use scope. Plus, it’s backed by Leupold’s lifetime guarantee.
You break it, they’ll fix it…free of charge.
2. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32 Rimfire: Best Close-to-Medium Range Scope
Looking for the best close-to-medium range scope for target shooting? Then get a Vortex Crossfire II 2-7×32.
Not only is it affordable, but the scope’s features is built with quality.
Like what?
Keep reading to find out…
Glass Clarity & Reticle
Glass clarity is always one of the defining features on a Vortex optic and the Crossfire II 2-7x is no exception.
This scope has a fully multi-coated lens that provides a stunningly bright and clear view of your target.
The lens also has an anti-reflective coating. This reduces light absorption to minimize any glare that could appear in your sight,
What’s better is the V-plex reticle.
It’s a popular hunting reticle that can be used for about any hunting applications. That’s why I recommended it in my 4 best scopes for Ruger 10/22 guide.
However, it’s wire constructed. Although it’s not bad, it can break and occasionally lose their position.
This reticle is a second focal plane (SFP) which lets you increase or decrease magnification without changing the size of the reticle.
So the reticle gets to do its job without obstructing your view of the target.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
One sure sign of a quality optic is the eye relief.
A good scope should allow you to have a comfortable distance between your eye and the eyepiece while still being able to clearly see the full field of view.
The Crossfire II really delivers in this area. It offers a very forgiving 3.9 inches of eye relief at the lowest magnification and 4.7 inches at the highest magnification.
The eye box (range of positioning behind the eyepiece) is also really generous. This allows for faster target acquisition and is a big reason why this optic can be recommended for both tactical use as well as for hunting.
Durability & Weight
The Vortex reputation is built on the company’s resolve to make a product that endures.
Crossfire II displays all the signs of the vortex standards
Like other Vortex products, the Crossfire II has been designed to surpass the standards of similarly-priced riflescopes.
The hard-anodized tube is made from aircraft-grade aluminum which protects it against scratches and dings.
The design is also shockproof, ensuring that the components aren’t easily jumbled by the movement of your gun. Not to mention movements that come with normal use, such as, having it packed up with the rest of your gear in the back of your truck, or even accidentally knocking it over or dropping it.
The scope is O-ring sealed and nitrogen purged, making it both waterproof and fog proof.
If for some reason any of these features fail or your scope is damaged in any way, Vortex covers it with its VIP lifetime warranty.
The company will either repair or replace your Crossfire II, no matter what the problem is or how long you’ve had it.
To top it all off, this heavy-duty scope weighs just 14.3oz. — a comfortable addition to most rifles.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The turrets on the Crossfire II are medium height and finger adjustable.
The knobs have a sturdy feel to them and can be easily manipulated, even with a gloved hand. Both turrets are capped to protect your settings and can be reset back to zero after sighting in.
Windage and elevation can both be adjusted to 60 MOA with each click measuring ¼ MOA.
Magnification & Parallax
With a magnification of 2-7x, this is a scope meant for close to medium-range shooting.
The parallax adjustment is fixed up to 100yds which is a good fit for this level of magnification.
Vortex Optics Crossfire II 2-7×32 Review: Is It Worth It?
With a price tag of only $129, you are getting a great scope with quality features that many people pay twice as much for.
Not only that, but when you take into account the lifetime warranty, it’s almost a no brainer.
In short:
If you’re looking for a solid tactical scope that excels in hunting, then I’d recommend the Crossfire II.
3. Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32: Best Short-range Varmint Hunting
Want to do short-range varmint hunting?
Or rimfire tactical matches?
Then take a look at the Bushnell Drop Zone-22 2-7×32. It’s literally designed for the .22 LR round.
The best part?
It’s super affordable. Let’s take a closer look…
Glass Clarity & Reticle
The glass is surprisingly good.
In fact, I didn’t notice any tunnel vision from the bezel like I do with other similarly-priced optics.
But what’s even better is the Drop Zone-22 BDC reticle.
It’s specifically engineered for 38-40 grain, .22 LR high-velocity loads, with a 50-yard zero.
What that means is it specifically measures the .22 LR’s trajectory, giving you completely accurate bullet drop estimates.
This is perfect if you do short-range varmint hunting or rimfire tactical matches.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
The 3.6” of eye relief is very forgiving — even at full magnification.
Also, the eye box is generous. I didn’t experience any eye fatigue.
Durability & Weight
The Drop Zone-22 is built like a tank.
It’s O-ring sealed, argon purged and crafted from durable aluminum. Which means, the scope is waterproof, fogproof and shockproof.
However, it comes at a hefty cost:
Heavy weight.
At about 19.5 ounces in weight, the Drop-Zone 22 is one of the heaviest scope in its class.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
The exposed target turrets are reliable.
They produce positive, crisp clicks. No tools are required. And the ¼ MOA is very precise.
However, the dials are a bit stiff to turn…at first. With usage, it’ll loosen up.
Moving on, zeroing was easy. After 7 rounds, I was zeroed in. It also held zero like a champ. 82 rounds and a few hikes later, I still haven’t lost zero.
Magnification & Parallax
Just like the turrets, the power ring is also rather stiff.
The solution?
Use a throw-over lever. This makes turning the knob a breeze.
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The scope is also equipped with an adjustable side parallax knob. This is gold…considering the price of the optic.
It can adjust as low as 10 yards to infinity. A plus if you’re plinking, engaging close targets or rimfire shooting.
In short:
The 2-7x magnification and parallax adjustment is clean and precise.
Bushnell Optics Drop Zone-22 Review: Is It Worth It?
If you’re looking for a budget-friendly 22LR scope, then get a Bushnell Drop Zone-22.
Here’s why. It’s got:
Durable
Clear glass
Long eye relief
22LR BDC reticle
Side parallax adjustment
It’s literally designed for small game hunting, plinking and rimfire shooting.
The best part?
It’s backed by Bushnell’s lifetime warranty. So if ANYTHING happens to the scope, they’ll fix er’ up for free.
4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Short-to-Long Range 22LR Scope
The Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 is the best short-to-long range scope for your 22lr rifle.
In fact:
The Argos BTR packs in many of the features of top-dollar scopes, but for a fraction of the cost. Like what? Keep reading to find out…
Glass Clarity & Reticle
The glass on the Argos BTR is very high quality, which means the image you see through your scope is clear and crisp. In fact, the Argos BTR excels in low-light conditions.
I’ve found that it’s the perfect scope for dusk and dawn hunts. This is because the BTR is made with a fully multi-coated lens which provides fantastic light transmission.
I’ve noticed that when I zoom in to 18-24x, I get a little bit of blurriness. That said, for under $400, you really can’t beat the image clarity of the BTR.
Now let’s take a look at the reticle.
I was expecting a pretty basic reticle from this scope, especially considering the price. However, the BTR uses an illuminated, etched APMR MIL reticle. It’s anything but basic!
Here’s a look at the APMR MIL reticle:
I really like the illuminated reticle, especially when I’m shooting in low-light conditions. There are 11 brightness settings which means that I can find the perfect illumination level every time.
I do wish that the BTR had an auto-shutoff feature to help save on battery life, but I tend to keep an extra Lithium battery in my bag just in case.
Also, since the reticle is etched into the glass, you don’t need to turn on the illumination at all if you don’t want to. The etched reticle is also much more durable than a wired crosshair, so you don’t have to worry about your wires getting knocked off center.
One of the best things about the Argos BTR is that it is a first focal plane riflescope, which means that the reticle grows as you zoom in on your target. No more calculations for holdover or windage when you change your magnification.
I love that the MIL reticle works at all ranges, and this feature usually only comes in scopes that cost over $1000.
Eye Relief & Eye Box
The eye relief on the BTR is a nice, comfy 3.3 inches. This is perfect for low-to-zero recoil calibers like 22lr.
The eye box is also nice and generous, although I’ve noticed it does shrink a little as you zoom in to max.
Durability
The Argos BTR is incredibly durable. The tube is made from heat-treated, aircraft grade aluminum and is sealed with O-rings.
As if that’s not enough, the whole tube is made from a single piece of metal, which makes it stronger and more waterproof than multi-piece scope tubes. The BTR is also argon-purged and uses an etched reticle.
All of these features mean that the scope is able to handle any kind of conditions and take any kind of punishment that I might throw at it.
Elevation & Windage Knobs
Here’s the scope’s biggest con…
The turrets move very easily, with almost no resistance…which can lead to over adjusting.
However, I spent about ten minutes re-greasing the turret caps. When I was done, the turrets felt much less mushy and the clicks were a lot louder.
If you’ve never regreased turrets before, here’s a quick video showing you how to do it:
Zeroing was a very easy process. I was able to zero the scope in less than ten rounds once I was hitting paper.
And I’ve put hundreds of rounds through my 22lr since, and the zero has held true.
In my experience, these turrets have proved to be very reliable.
Parallax & Magnification
The parallax adjustment knob works very well. It’s easy to turn and accurate. This makes for easy adjustments in the field.
The 6-24x magnification is probably my favorite thing about this scope. Whether I want to shoot something ten yards out or plink a target at 1000 yards, the BTR is my go-to.
The scope image is very clear up until about 20x. After that it gets a little bit blurry, so you may want to invest in a higher-end scope if you want to do a lot of extreme distance shooting.
That said, I’ve found that the Argos BTR still functions well at 1000 yards, especially when you consider the price.
Mounting & Rings
The Argos BTR doesn’t come with any rings or a mount, so I’d suggest getting a set of High Scope Rings that fit your 22lr.
The scope does come with a set of lens covers, which is nice. It also includes a battery for the illuminated reticle.
I went ahead and bought a 50mm Athlon Sunshade to use for my daytime shooting.
It helps a lot with glare and reflections.
Is the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 Worth It?
If you need an all-range scope for your 22lr, you can’t go wrong with the Argos BTR.
Here’s why. It has:
First focal plane
6-24x magnification
Excellent in low-light
Reliable, hand-adjustable turrets
Illuminated, etched BTR MIL reticle
Fully multi-coated glass for clear, crisp image
And all of this comes in a package that costs a fraction of what other competing scopes cost.
If all of that wasn’t enough, the BTR comes with Athlon’s Gold Medal lifetime warranty, so you know you’re covered if anything happens to your riflescope.
If you want all these features in a low-cost riflescope, then the Argos BTR 6-24×50 is for you.
Looking for a riflescope for your AR? Here’s our list of the 7 Best AR-15 Scopes and Optics.
Now It’s Your Turn
I hope you enjoyed my best 22LR scope for target shooting guide.
So as a recap:
If you’re looking for the best overall .22LR target shooting scope, then get the Leupold VX-Freedom Rimfire.
What about the best close-to-medium range optic? The Crossfire II 2-7×32 is for you.
If you’re into short-range varmint hunting, then opt-in for the Bushnell Drop Zone-22.
Or if you’re looking for the best short-to-long range scope, then get the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.
Whichever .22LR scope you choose, you’re bound to hit a reliable, yet effective optic. I’ve spent hundreds of rounds through each one with no failure.
Now I want to turn it over to you:
Which rifle scope will you pick for your .22LR?
Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.
Firearms and wood go together like chips and salsa.
Despite the revolutions of plastics and the growth of space-age alloys – there is something about a good wooden stock that just cannot be replicated or imitated by anything else.
Howa 1500 in MDT and Boyds
But custom cut wood is often prohibitively expensive and metal chassis aren’t what you want to carry when on a long hunting trip.
What you need is wood. Warm, natural wood – but at a price that won’t break you.
Just some of the styles and colors at Boyds Stocks
Boyds Gun Stocks are made of laminated layers of wood that are precision machined to fit almost any rifle action on the market. From Ruger 10/22s to AK-47s and AR-15s to the Howa 1500 Barreled Action – Boyds has a stock for you.
They also come in a wide range of colors, styles, grips, fore ends, coatings, and more!
Basically – it’s like having a custom carpenter for your rifle, but at the price point of mass-produced plastic. Starting at under $140, Boyds delivers major value for their price.
When you visit Boyds site, you can’t get something with same day shipping. That’s because everything they offer they custom make after you order it. While this means that shipping isn’t Amazon Prime fast, it also means that you get your stock.
Not something that fell off a shelf.
Boyds AT-One
Every stock Boyds makes is made from laminated hardwood (layers of hardwood that have been pressed together using heat, pressure, and resin). This keeps them lightweight, strong, and delivers that warm wood feel that you’re looking for.
They’ve also been doing it since 1981, so they’ve had time to get really good at it.
Like many people, I was interested in Boyds stocks for a while before actually getting one to test out, the recent Howa 1500 Barreled Actions that were sent to me provided me the perfect opportunity!
Boyds sent me two of their stocks, their highly-popular AT-One stock, and a Platinum profile stock – I got the AT-One in Nutmeg Laminate and the Platinum in Forest Camo Laminate, both are gorgeous!
Howa 1500 in MDT and Boyds
Boyds AT-One
I’ll just say it – I like this stock. If you’re looking for a stock that crosses the bridge between a custom precision stock and an easy-to-use hunting stock, this one is for you.
However, it does both roles decently without doing either role outstandingly.
Most of the stocks Boyds makes are non-adjustable, the AT-One is the exception with an adjustable length-of-pull and adjustable cheek rest.
Howa 1500 in Boyds AT-One
Both are easy and quick to change, just push a button and move the part. Easy!
This is a nice addition to have – but it isn’t perfect as the adjustment points offered aren’t as precise as I would have liked.
While for the LoP it isn’t a big deal, you notice it a bit more with the cheek rest. For hunting, plinking, or even casual long-range shooting – the adjustments offered are perfectly adequate.
But if you wanted to turn this into a bench rest precision rifle, then the options offered on the cheek weld leave something to be desired.
I mounted a 300 Win Mag Howa 1500 Barreled Action in my AT-One because I wanted to make sure it could take the heavy pounding that comes with a 300 Win Mag.
After several range trips, I’m happy to say that even using hot 300 Win mag loads – this stock is holding up just fine. Better than my shoulder is at least!
Howa 1500 in Boyds AT-One, 300 Win Mag. 5-shot group 3/4 MOA
The AT-One also makes for a good shooting rifle – the Howa 1500 BA I had mounted in it is a great rifle action, but the free floated Boyds stock allowed me to shoot this 3/4 MOA group at 150 yards.
Who is it for?
While the AT-One is a jack-of-all-trades, it does each role very well – just not perfectly. But that is exactly what many of us need in a stock, something that just works no matter what it is we’re doing.
If I want to work on my shooting at the range, the AT-One has enough adjustments to let me do that in almost any stance or configuration I want. If I want to let a friend use my rifle for the day, they can quickly adjust the settings to suit them.
It’s also great for my “do-all” hunting rifle. California summers mean thin clothing, but Montana mountains mean thick jackets.
The AT-One lets me go hunting in either without an issue since I can easily change the settings to match what I’m wearing, doing, or hunting.
In the interest of full disclosure…
I have to mention that this wasn’t the first AT-One sent to me, it’s actually the second. The first wasn’t cut correctly and was off by about 2.5mm, while that doesn’t sound like a lot – it was enough so that the action wouldn’t mount in it.
AT-One 2.5mm out of spec. Sometimes things happen, it’s the customer service that you get afterward that matters – and Boyds is well known for their great CS staff!
Boyds was on the ball though and had a new one shipped out to me in short order, the new stock had zero problems. Everything dropped in just perfectly.
Boyds Platinum
This is the classic, the wood stock that you think of when you think of “wood stock”. It’s also the stock that I would choose 9 times out of 10.
Boyds Platinum Stock
While it doesn’t offer the in-the-field adjustment ability of the AT-One, it can be customized when you order it for length of pull, grip, color, type, and a bunch more options. Boyds makes it really easy to get the stock you want right from the start.
It’s beautiful, strong, and lightweight. Everything you want from a good stock.
Don’t let the basic look of the Platinum fool you, either.
Boyds stocks are free-floated, have multiple attachment points for slings or bipods, and feel solid in your hands – something that is sorely lacking from most standard stocks these days.
Who is it for?
Everyone. Really, everyone.
From the new shooter with their Ruger 10/22 to the grandfather hunting his 1,000th deer, this is a great stock for you.
It doesn’t matter if you’re building your rifle from the ground up or if you’re just looking for an easy upgrade for a rifle you bought at a big box store, this is a great stock for you.
I think that is what I love most about the Platinum. Between the price point, the options offered, and the ease of installation – throwing almost any rifle you have into a Boyds is not only possible but can be realized without breaking into your piggy bank.
Take a close look at the picture above and you might be wondering why I have the scope mounted like that. I decided to use the Platinum to build a sort of scout-rifle -ish build.
Why? Well, because I picked up a Vortex 2-6x Scout scope on sale and wanted to play with it.
It actually worked a lot better than I thought it would! I’ve never been impressed with the Scout-Rifle Concept, but after building a sort of kind of version of it – I can dig it.
Shooting standing with a sort-of tree branch for support, my little Scout build put a respectable group at 75 yards. This is clearly nowhere near what the real accuracy of the rifle is (sub-MOA when shot off a bench with front and rear bags), but for standing and only slight support – I was happy with it.
Definitely proved to be minute-of-deer at least!
Aim for the heart and lungs!
By the Numbers
Reliability 5/5
Zero issues at all with either stock, both allowed the rifle to work exactly as intended with no hiccups.
Accuracy 4/5
Both the AT-One and the Platinum were free-floated and that helped give me the accuracy I wanted, but since the stocks are wood and aren’t bedded I didn’t have as much accuracy as I know is possible with the Howa 1500. That said – both were still 1 MOA or better with every group using decent ammo, and that is more than enough accuracy for 99% of applications.
If you wanted though you could glass bed your action and improve accuracy by a small margin.
Ergonomics 5/5
Ergonomics are going to rely on you as much as it does on Boyds, since they give you the options of ordering the length of pull and other measurements that you want, you need to know those numbers before ordering. As long as you take the time to know what you want, Boyds will deliver right on the money for you.
Looks 5/5
If I could give a 10 out of 5 I would! These stocks look and feel even better in person than they do in pictures. If you want to see a boatload of options for style and color, I strongly recommend looking through the Boyds Gallery before ordering.
Customization 5/5
Colors, shapes, engravings, and a lot more are customizable when you order your stock. Take your time and pick out all the options you want!
Bang for the Buck/Value 5/5
The price is low and the value is high. You’re getting an almost totally custom stock for the price of mass-produced plastic, that’s just awesome.
Overall Rating 4.5/5
In all – I’m a big fan of these stocks now. If you’re looking to do a simple upgrade that makes a world of difference, this would be my top choice. If you’re looking to turn a standard rifle into your rifle, this is what you want.
But Wait, There’s More!
Boyds doesn’t JUST offer stocks for hunting rifles, they also have furniture for AR-15s, AK-47s, M1 Garands, M14s, M1 Carbines, and even Mosin-Nagants!
Bringing the same level of detail and dedication to military style stocks as they do to their hunting and plinking lines, Boyds has done an outstanding job of offering the market an option for nearly everything.
Parting Shots
Easy to install, high quality, wonderful to use, and for a price almost anyone can afford. Boyds does an outstanding job of delivering on every level and has been doing so for decades.
Howa 1500 in MDT and Boyds
Don’t forget to check out my other article on the Howa 1500 Barreled Action! Combining a Howa with a Boyds makes for an amazing hunting rifle.
Do you have a Boyds gun stock? Let us know about it in the comments! And check out more of our favorite guns and gear in Editor’s Picks.
Planning a beach or desert camping escapade? Well, before you sink your toes into the warm sand, let’s talk about a tiny but essential detail: the best tent stakes for sand. If you think you can use the stakes you normally bring on a camping trip, I’m sorry to say that they’ll refuse to play nice with the shifting sands, and they’ll leave your shelter teetering with every gust of wind. You’ll need something more specialized, which is why we’ve put together a list of our favorite sand stakes. Whether you’re a seasoned sand camper or a newbie ready to dip your toes into this unique experience, we’re sure you’ll find an option that works for you in our review below.
In this article, we’ll be reviewing the following best tent stakes for sand:
REI Co-op Snow Stake – Editor’s Choice
Neso Ground Screw Stakes – Best Overall
Syarme Sand Stakes – Cheapest Stakes
7Penn Spiral Ground Anchors – Most Durable Stakes
Lifeswell Ground Anchors – Best Bang for Your Buck
Don’t let the name deceive you – while the REI Co-op snow stakes are obviously designed to be used in snow, they work just as well in sand. As someone who’s used them in the desert a number of times, I can personally attest to their effectiveness.These snow stakes are thin and wide, instead of cylindrical like most tent stakes. You’ll notice a number of holes along the length of the shaft, which allow the sand and snow to better lock it in place. While I find that this design isn’t quite as secure as a corkscrew stake, I do tend to prefer this style for sand because of how easy it is to use. The price is pretty reasonable as well. You can get four of them for under $30, though from experience, I can assure you that you’ll want more. Six is the bare minimum that you’ll want, though I would probably go up to eight, just to be safe. And if you’re worried about how much you’ll get weighed down with that many stakes, don’t be. They’re only an ounce a piece, so you can go pretty crazy before the weight starts to become an issue.Pros:– Lightweight- Easy to pack away- Effective in multiple environments- Good price- Simple to useCons:– They lack some of the securing power that you’ll find in a corkscrew
Made from recycled materials, the Neso ground screw stakes are what you want to have if the REI snow stakes mentioned above aren’t your jam. These guys are incredibly durable and stable, though they do take longer to put into place than the snow stakes. You’ll need to use the included T-Grip tool to twist them into place, even if the sand is easier to work with than soil.Still, this is where I tend to find fault with corkscrew stakes. Desert environments get pretty windy around sunset, and if you’re starting to make camp around that time, it can be a hassle to set up your tent. If your stakes take awhile to get into place, you’re going to need an extra set of hands or two to help prevent your shelter from flying away in the wind.I do wish these were a little longer, but they work well enough for most desert and beach camping. They’re also slightly more expensive than the REI snow stakes, but not by much, so price is still fairly budget friendly. For a versatile tent stake that can be used in sand and other ground materials, the Neso ground stakes are definitely worth considering.Pros:– Durable- Fairly easy to use- Good price- Nice security- VersatileCons:– Take longer to get into place
What can I say about the Syarme tent stakes? They’re cheap and you’ll know it when you use them for the first time, but hey, they still get the job done…for the most part.Okay, I’m being a little pessimistic. While they aren’t going to receive my “best overall” award, they truly are a good option for the occasional beach camping trip. You get a good number of them for the price, allowing you to secure the corners or your tent along with any guylines that you want to setup as well. As long as you stay away from severe wind gusts, you shouldn’t have any problems with the Syarme tent stakes.But that’s where my flattery ends. Not only do they feel cheap, but they also don’t come with any tool to help you twist them into the ground. Considering how sharp the plastic is in a number of places, it’s a great way to cut yourself, if you aren’t careful.I’m also unimpressed with the length of the stakes. Since they’re designed to be used in the sand, I would have expected a few more inches of length to really help provide the security that you need when the wind picks up. As it stands, you’ll be fine in low and moderate wind gusts, but in anything stronger, you’ll start to have stakes pulling out of the ground.Pros:– Good value for the cost- Decently secure- A good number come in the pack- Fine for relatively fair-weather campingCons:– No tools to help you secure them- They like to pull out in strong wind
The first set of steel tent stakes for sand in this review, the durability is reason enough for me to like these 7Penn stakes. They are a little more expensive than every other product we’ve mentioned so far, but it can be a worthy tradeoff, depending on how you plan to use them.However, my biggest concern with the steel is how much heavier it is too. A full 5.5 pounds is no laughing matter, so these aren’t the sort of stakes that you want to carry with you long distances. Backpacking is automatically off the table, which leaves you with car camping – probably at the beach. If that doesn’t bother you, then most of my complaints end there.Overall, they’re a versatile set of stakes that can be used on a variety of terrains. Even so, considering they’re screw stakes, you’ll want to make sure the ground is pretty soft, otherwise you’ll have a hard time rooting them in place. Or, if you can find a stick to thread through the eyelet, I find that the extra leverage can help the stake dig into tougher soil.Generally speaking, I feel pretty confident in saying that these are the most heavy-duty tent stakes in this review. If you need that tough, no-nonsense reliability and don’t care about price or weight, these are the ones for you.Pros:– Highly durable- Very sturdy- Pretty reasonable price- Versatile- ReliableCons:– Heavy
For the price, the Lifeswell ground anchors are actually a pretty good deal. They have a decent length, and the securing power is better than most stakes sporting this style. The alloy steel is also quite durable, and since there’s less material than what you’ll find on the CORQUE stakes, they’re not excessively heavy either. While they do still have some heft to them, you could get away with carrying a set of these stakes on a backpacking trip, if you didn’t mind the extra pound or two.Unfortunately, I find that they aren’t as easy to screw into place as the CORQUE or the Neso ground anchors. While those two come with a twist stick to give you a handhold and some leverage, the Lifeswell stakes don’t give you this luxury. Instead, if you want the process to go quickly, you’ll need a drill. Obviously, most of us don’t think to bring a drill while camping (and many of us probably wouldn’t want to anyway), but it can be workable for car campers setting up shop on the beach. Backpackers, I’m sorry to say that these just won’t work for you. While you can twist them by hand, I’d recommend going with a different stake option to save yourself the hassle.Still, if you have a way to twist them into place, these stakes are an incredibly versatile option that can be used in a variety of terrains. Especially for the price, they give you some of the best bang for your buck.Pros:– Good value for the price- Versatile- Secure- Durable- Decent weight for how strong they areCons:– Need a drill to be secured
Though they’re designed to be used for securing trampolines, the Eurmax spiral stakes are a versatile option that work well in sand as well. As we’ve established at this point, the spiral shape is very effective at locking the stake into place, despite the ever-shifting sands. And, while I do wish they were longer, these Eurmax stakes still do a pretty good job of providing adequate stability.Like the Lifeswell anchors mentioned above, you will need a drill in order to screw these into place. As someone who’s done a bit of desert camping, I just can’t get on board with this design for backpacking, due to the inconvenience. Sure, it works well for car camping, but that’s hardly a good enough excuse to label it the “best overall.”Still, for what it’s designed for, the Eurmax does a great job. The alloy steel is quite durable, and while the weight is on the higher end, it’s not too much of a burden for car campers who need a solid set of stakes for sand.Pros:– Durable- Pretty solid- Good for car camping- VersatileCons:– Price- Weight
Best Tent Stakes for Sand – Buyer’s Guide
Size
In sandy terrain, longer tent stakes are going to be your best bet. I’d suggest you aim for stakes that are at least 12 inches in length, as this extra length allows for deeper penetration into the sand, providing better stability for your tent. With longer stakes, you can minimize the risk of your tent getting uprooted by strong winds or shifting sand, giving you peace of mind throughout your camping adventure.Another aspect to keep in mind is the diameter or thickness of the tent stakes. For optimal grip and resistance against sand shifting, look for stakes with a diameter of around 0.4 to 0.5 inches. This size strikes a perfect balance between strength and maneuverability. Not only that, but stakes with a slightly thicker diameter offer better anchoring and minimize the chances of bending or deforming when driven into the sand.
Weight
When you’re dealing with sand, your stakes need to have enough anchoring power to withstand windy conditions and other unusual elements. But at the same time, they shouldn’t be a burden to carry around. After all, who wants to feel weighed down when enjoying a day at the beach or exploring the desert?That’s where lightweight tent stakes come to the rescue. Not only are they easier on your back, but they also make your life much simpler when it comes to setting up camp. That’s not to say that stakes are very heavy – many of them weigh under a pound (and that’s for the whole set), but any backpacker knows that every ounce adds up. Lightweight stakes make your life easier and leave you with more energy to enjoy your surroundings.
Material
When it comes to securing a tent, sand poses a unique challenge due to its loose and shifting nature, making it more difficult for tent stakes to maintain a firm grip. However, with the right material, you can increase your chances of a successful setup.One of the best materials for tent stakes in sandy environments is aluminum. Aluminum tent stakes are lightweight, which makes them easy to carry in your backpack, and their durability ensures they won’t bend or break easily. The smooth surface of aluminum stakes allows them to slide into the sand with less effort, providing a solid anchor for your tent (assuming they have holes along their length, or they sport a corkscrew design). Additionally, aluminum is resistant to corrosion, so you don’t have to worry about rust even if you frequently camp near coastal areas.Another popular option for sandy terrains is titanium tent stakes. Although titanium stakes can be a bit more expensive than aluminum, they offer several advantages. Titanium is incredibly lightweight, making it ideal for backpackers who value every ounce of weight in their gear. These stakes also have excellent strength-to-weight ratio, allowing them to withstand the forces exerted by the sand. And like aluminum, titanium is also highly resistant to corrosion, ensuring longevity and reliability in sandy conditions.But both of these materials can get expensive pretty quickly, especially titanium. So for those of you who are looking for a more budget-friendly option, plastic tent stakes can be a viable choice. While not as durable as aluminum or titanium, plastic stakes can still perform well in softer sand. They are lightweight, affordable, and less likely to cause damage to your tent if accidentally stepped on. However, it’s important to note that plastic stakes may not withstand strong winds or very compact sand as effectively as their metal counterparts.
Shape
Traditional stakes, commonly known as “Y” or “V” stakes, have been the go-to option for many campers. These stakes feature a simple design with a single or double pointy end, and while they work well in various terrains, they may not be the most suitable choice for sandy surfaces. The reason behind this lies in their shape and smoothness, which makes them prone to slipping out of loose sand.To tackle this challenge, tent stake manufacturers have introduced specialized stakes designed explicitly for sandy environments. One popular option is the “sand anchor” stake, which has a unique spiral shape, resembling an auger or corkscrew. The spiral design allows them to twist deeper into the sand, providing a more secure hold. They are especially effective in preventing your tent from getting uprooted during strong gusts of wind.The kind that I use, though, are the REI Co-op snow stakes mentioned above. Since snow and sand are so similar, if you find a stake that works well in one condition, it will almost certainly work well in the other. As far as the snow stakes go, you’ll notice that they have a relatively flat shape which is marked with holes. Snow (and sand) will fill in these holes, providing the grip you need to secure your tent.
Pack Size
A final tip… Make sure you know how many stakes you’re getting in a pack. Especially when buying online, some stakes are sold individually while others are sold as a bunch, so make sure you know how many you need (and how many you’re getting) before you hit that “Add to cart” button.
At Untamed Space, we’re passionate about helping you have the best camping experience possible. Our team of experts have experience camping and backpacking all over the world, allowing them to provide insightful and relevant content to guide you in your outdoor pursuits.All of our reviews are based on a combination of firsthand experience, extensive research, and an analysis of customer feedback. We are an independent website and do not receive payments or incentives from manufacturers to promote their products, and we continuously update our content to provide new information based on product availability. Wherever you are in your journey, whatever gear you’re searching for, you can be sure to find unbiased and up-to-date reviews for all of your needs.
FAQ
Final Thoughts
When it comes to choosing the best tent stakes for sand, certain key features can make a world of difference in ensuring a secure and worry-free camping experience. Sand poses unique challenges due to its loose nature, which means you need stakes with very specific characteristics.On the whole, we believe the Neso Ground Screw Stakes stand out as an exceptional choice, checking the most boxes with their secure design. With their durable construction, impressive length, and spiral shape, these stakes provide optimal security and stability on sandy surfaces. Their ease of use and ability to withstand challenging conditions make them a top contender for any beach or desert camping adventure.
So you are interested in getting into archery and more specifically crossbow archery but you aren’t sure where to start…we have all been there and are happy to put together this guide for getting in to this exciting and fun sport. As this guide is geared toward beginners, we will discuss everything from selecting the right crossbow for you all the way to how to shoot it and even how to sight in the scope. Please read on and enjoy!
There are literally hundreds of crossbows out there to choose from, so how do you know which is the best one for you? When you are looking at a crossbow, it is important to first ask yourself what you intend to do with it. Are you looking for something purely for target shooting? Are you looking for something to hunt with? If so, what size animals will you be looking to take and at what realistic ranges? Many modern crossbows are capable of taking down a deer out to ranges in excess of 60 yards, but that is also going to require a lot of time and effort on your part to become proficient enough with your crossbow to make shots at that range. More realistic ranges are typically going to be 30 to 40 yards, so keep that in mind when looking at your hunting opportunities. So what are the biggest factors you should look for in a crossbow and how will they affect your shooting?
What is better, a recurve or compound crossbow?
A lot of people wonder about the difference between a recurve crossbow and a compound crossbow and what the advantage and/or disadvantage of each is. Both have a place in the target as well as the hunting world and both have a dedicated cadre of shooters. Here is a breakdown of the pros and cons of each type.
Recurve Crossbows
The recurve crossbow is the most purist of the crossbows and is the type of crossbow that has been around for hundreds of years. It is often selected by archers for its simplicity and reliability. The recurve crossbow essentially has a simple bow and string with no cables or pulleys to adjust or to worry about failing at a critical moment. The trade off for this simplicity is that a recurve crossbow is typically going to be quite a bit wider from axle to axle (ATA), which is the measurement across the widest part of the bow section. The recurve will typically also have a higher draw weight with less overall speed than its compound counterpart.
Compound Crossbows
Compound crossbows are the most popular crossbow type largely due to their lower draw weights with higher arrow speeds. The addition of the cables and pulleys means that a compound crossbow can enjoy a narrower ATA, which makes it more portable and easier to shoot from a confined area such a deer blind. Those cables and pulleys also translate to additional moving parts, and as such, additional potential points of failure. This isn’t to say that modern compound crossbows are overly prone to such failures, merely that the possibility exists, and likely won’t happen at the most opportune moment!
Speed
We are constantly asked about the speed of a crossbow and usually are asked, “What is the fastest crossbow?” There are some truly fast crossbows out there with speed capabilities well in excess of 400 fps. The most important question to ask yourself is why do you need that much speed? If you plan to go hunt a T-Rex in Jurassic Park, we might understand that, but for simple target shooting or for most deer hunting, nothing near that is necessary.
A fact not understood by a lot of shooters is that too much speed can actually be detrimental to your shooting. A fast arrow is great in terms of hitting harder and shooting flatter (a flatter shooting projectile means there is less drop of the projectile over distance so knowing the exact range is not as critical as with a slower projectile). The drawback is that as you increase speed, you decrease the crossbow’s tolerance for any little mistake. A fast arrow is going to react more to a less than perfect draw as well as being less forgiving for any imperfections in the arrow or vanes.
It is also important to know what weight arrows are recommended and what weight total projectile (arrows and points) were used to calculate the claimed speed of a crossbow. Often times, a heavier arrow will slow your speed, but will actually carry more force to the target, especially at longer ranges. Just remember, that you want an arrow that is fast enough to get the job done, but not so fast that the overkill makes your shots more difficult.
Safety
A beginner archer should really be concerned about the safety aspects of a crossbow as there are a lot of things to learn, so integrated safety devices will help keep you from injuring yourself or damaging your new crossbow. The most important safety features are discussed below.
Anti Dry Fire
A “dry fire” for a crossbow is when the crossbow is fired without an arrow in place. This is one of the single worst things you can do to a crossbow as it puts enormous stress of the limbs of the crossbow. The arrow provides resistance to the limbs when fired to allow them to release their energy in a controlled fashion, so firing without an arrow allows for a lot of energy to be released more rapidly than the limbs were designed for. Many modern crossbows feature a mechanism that will not allow the string to be released unless an arrow in place. This is called a “dry fire inhibitor”, or an “anti dry fire” device and is something you should definitely look for when selecting your crossbow.
Auto-Engaging Safety
Just about all crossbows on the market today will feature a mechanical safety that keeps the trigger from releasing the string when set. This functions much like the safety on a rifle and can be of many different designs. An auto-engaging safety is one that is automatically set during the action of drawing the bow string. This is a great feature for the beginner shooter as it is something you will not have to remember to set yourself and will keep the crossbow safe until you are ready to intentionally pull the trigger.
Forward Grip Design
The forward grip is the part of the crossbow located under the rail where your stabilizing hand is going to go. In a typical rifle design, this grip is simply a piece of wood or plastic where you can hold the rifle when shooting, without much concern for the safety of that hand as the bullet is contained inside the barrel. On a crossbow, while the arrow is contained somewhat within the rail, the bow string is not and slides rapidly down the rail when the crossbow is fired. If a finger or thumb from the forward shooting hand is up a bit too high and gets in the way of that string, at best the shot is going to be ruined, but most likely there is also going to be a significant injury to that hand.
To minimize this possibility, you should look for a crossbow that has a forward grip design with ‘wings’ that stick out to the side and run the length of the grip. These wings will help keep your fingers well below the string path and make for one less thing you need to focus on when learning to shoot.
Once your crossbow arrives
Typically, beginner crossbows will come as a combo, often with included arrows and other accessories. Keep in mind that just about every crossbow you order is going to require some level of assembly.
Assembly
Knowing that your crossbow is going to arrive in a big box, but is still going to need to be assembled is an important thing to understand. Don’t worry, assembly isn’t really a big deal at all. Typically, the bow section is going to come fully assembled, and in the case of a compound bow is going to be fully strung as well. The assembly will usually consist of mating the bow section to the barrel/stock assembly, mounting the scope and possibly adding a few accessories, such as a grip or quiver mount. The required tools are usually included and the instructions aren’t hard to follow.
Be sure when mounting your scope that you place it in the proper orientation. First look through it so you know the back and the front to ensure you don’t put it on backwards. Also, as you mount the scope, if it is an illuminated scope, there will be three round dials (one for the illumination settings) and/or round covers (two for the windage and elevation scope adjustments) at the midpoint of the scope. Simply place the middle cap in the up position and mount the scope. If the scope is not illuminated, there will only be two round caps for windage and elevation adjustments. One will be pointed straight up and the other straight to the right side of the crossbow. It is important to ensure your scope is mounted straight up and down and with the adjustments in the proper position or you will not be able to sight in your scope properly.
Arrow selection
If your crossbow didn’t come with arrows, you will need to select a good set of arrows to go with it. Most shooters use aluminum or carbon arrows but the carbon are the most popular. Be sure when selecting your arrows that you know what the recommended shaft length is for your crossbow as getting one that is too short can present a danger for shooting and might not weigh enough for your crossbow to shoot without the risk of dry fire.
Target selection
A crossbow is a much more powerful archery tool than a traditional vertical bow. The arrows are fired at much faster speeds and can often penetrate a standard archery target. Even with a good crossbow target, the arrows can often bury themselves so deeply that an arrow pulling tool might be required to remove them.
We have tested several different targets in our target selection guide to offer you some convenient recommendations: Best Crossbow Targets
Shooting your crossbow
So now you have everything assembled and the proper equipment ready to go so it is finally time to shoot your new crossbow. Before you shoot the crossbow, it is very important that you understand a few of the most important aspects of safely shooting.
For starters, never cock your crossbow until you are ready to shoot and most definitely never load it until it is time to fire. Keep in mind that once you are more experienced, this will not apply to hunting situations where you will want the crossbow cocked and loaded once you are safely situated in your hunting location. Be sure you never point your crossbow at something that you don’t intend to shoot and never EVER touch the trigger until you are lined up with your target and ready to fire. Lastly, always be completely sure of what you are shooting at and also know what is BEYOND your target. A crossbow arrow carries a lot of energy and can easily pass through an animal or you might miss the target…either way, be sure you know what is beyond your target and that conditions are safe to shoot.
How to aim
Just about all modern crossbows come with some sort of scope, or are set up with a rail to mount one. When you look through the scope you will either see a vertical line intersecting a horizontal line in the center of the scope. This is called the crosshairs. In the most simplistic version of shooting, you place the crosshairs where you intend the arrow to hit and squeeze the trigger. This will work assuming the scope is sighted in and the distance for the sighting in is the distance you are shooting (more on that below). There might also be a dot in the center of the scope which will be used in the same way.
Many scopes also have additional horizontal lines below the main crosshairs. These are used to shoot at targets further away, with each horizontal line creating a new crosshair where it intersects the vertical line. The lower the crosshair in the scope, the further away the target it is meant for. You will typically need to sight in the scope at say 30 yards, and then see how far away your specific crossbow/arrow/scope combination impacts at each crosshair to know the yardage it should be used for.
How to draw
Drawing a crossbow requires quite a bit more force than drawing a standard vertical bow. Most crossbows have draw weights in the range of 150 to 180 pounds with some having draw weights in excess of 200 pounds. It is critical that you draw the bow string in a uniform fashion every time such that your shots will be reproducible. The easiest way to accomplish this is through the use of a rope cocking aid. This is a device that is designed to hook to the bow string on either side of the rail and loops across the back of the crossbow.
First, place the crossbow pointed down at the ground and place your foot in the foot stirrup (the piece that sticks out from the end of the crossbow to place your foot in when pointed down). Hook the hooks on the rope cocker on each side of the rail and grab the handles on the end of each side of the rope cocker in the respective hand on that side. Then you simply pull straight up on the handles evenly with both hands until you feel the string engage in the firing mechanism. A swift solid pull straight up along the rail will make for the easiest cocking. Then ensure the safety is on and remove the rope cocker.
How to fire
Once the crossbow is cocked, you will need to place an arrow on the rail. You do so by grasping the arrow near the point (about four inches back from the tip) and slide it down into place on the rail and all the way back until it makes contact with the bow string. It is important when you do this to make sure the one of the vanes (usually the one that is the odd color relative to the other two vanes) is pointed straight down in the slot of the rail such that the arrow rests on the rail and not the vanes. It is also important to ensure that the groove in the nock of the arrow is horizontal such that the bow string seats into the groove (keep in mind that if your arrows that come with the crossbow have flat nocks, there will be no groove in the nock). It is very important that the arrow is loaded with the odd color vane straight down and that the arrow is fully seated back against the string. Once the arrow is in place, you simply aim at your target, click the safety to the “off” position and squeeze the trigger. There will usually be a bit of a slap sound from the string when you fire but very little recoil will be felt.
How to sight in
Once you are comfortable with how to look through your scope and understand how everything works you will want to sight in your crossbow. To do so, you will need to unscrew the caps on the top and right side of the scope. Removing these caps will expose the dials to allow you to adjust your scope to zero it in. You should first fire your crossbow into a target about 20 yards away to ensure your scope is close enough that you will be able to hit your target at 30 yards. If it is way off, simply use the dials to adjust where the aim point is. As you look at the dial on the right side, it will typically have a letter “L” and an arrow. That means if you click the dial in that direction, you will be moving your aim point to the left, and if you go the opposite direction of the arrow, you will be moving your aim point to the right. So if your arrow is several inches to the right of the bullseye, you will want to move the dial in the direction of the arrow to adjust your aim point to the left. The same method is applied with the top dial except it will usually have an “UP” and an arrow which means if you move the dial in the direction of the arrow, you will bring your aim point up and vice versa. Once you get familiar with how the dials move the aim point of the scope, you will be able to zero your scope in with ease.
Below are some of the most frequently asked questions we receive from new shooters:
Are there right and left handed crossbows? No. Crossbows do not eject any type of spent casing like a rifle does so you can shoot it either way. You might have to move mountings for a quiver if it attaches along the side of the crossbow, but other than that there is no right or left.
Can I change the string on my crossbow? Yes, but you will need to have the proper tools. It is easiest to accomplish changing a string with a bow press which essentially allows you to remove any tension from the limbs for easy changing of the string. Quite often this will require an archery pro shop, although we have used a portable bow press that worked quite well.
Here is a link to that review for more information: Night Hawk Bow Press
What is the absolute furthest I can hunt with my crossbow? Modern crossbows are capable of launching an arrow literally hundreds of yards, although without much accuracy. A very accomplished shooter might be able to hunt at ranges out to 80 yards, but that is a VERY accomplished shooter. Most beginner shooters should keep within 30 to 40 yards until they have enough range time to ensure accuracy at greater distances.
Are crossbows legal to hunt with everywhere? More and more states are adopting laws allowing the use of crossbows for hunting during archery season by all hunters, regardless of whether they have a disability. We would recommend you check with your local and state regulations to know the laws pertaining to crossbows in your area.
What’s the difference in a crossbow arrow and a crossbow bolt? You may see quite often the use of the terms crossbow “arrow” and “bolt” used interchangeably. This is actually incorrect. The true crossbow bolt which was used for so many hundreds of years is a front heavy projectile with no stabilizing fins or vanes. The modern projectiles used with crossbows that have vanes or fletching are crossbow arrows, just like a regular arrow only a bit shorter to fit the crossbow requirements.
What kind of hunting points should I use? You can use any type of broadhead that is legal in your area, but most crossbow shooters prefer mechanical broadheads over fixed broadheads. This is primarily due to the extreme speeds of crossbow arrows. Having the fixed broadhead can affect your accuracy while a mechanical broadhead will fly more like a field point.
Can I cock it by hand? The short answer is “yes” if you have the strength to pull it back. Cocking by hand is not recommended, however as the string may not seat perfectly leading to variability in shot placement. A rope cocking aid is always recommended as it makes it easier to cock by reducing the felt draw weight by around 50%, and it also allows you to ensure the string is centered for each shot.
If you’re looking for a comprehensive guide to Georgia hog hunting, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, I break down when and where you can hunt feral hogs in Georgia, what licenses you need, what weapons are legal, and which wildlife management areas (WMAs) offer you the best chance of putting fresh pork in the freezer.
The first thing you need to know about Georgia hog hunting is that the season dates and regulations are much different on public lands than they are on private. So much so, that for each section of this article, I break down the information separately. If you still have questions after reading the article, feel free to drop them in the comments section and I’ll do my best to answer them.
RELATED: Guide to Georgia’s 2022-2024 Hunting Seasons
Despite their nuisance status, Georgia hog hunters are still required to purchase a hunting license. That’s going to set you back $15 if you’re a resident or $100 if you’re a nonresident. If you’re a nonresident but only plan on hunting for a short period of time, you can purchase a one-day hunting license for $20 and add additional days for $6 each.
The good news is a hunting license is all you need to hunt hogs in Georgia, regardless of whether you’re hunting public or private land. There is no separate permit required for hunting on WMAs or national forests.
To get your Georgia hunting license, head over to the Georgia DNR’s website.
Georgia Feral Hog SeasonDates
Private Land
On private land, there is no closed season on hogs. You can hunt them year-round.
Public Land
Georgia public land hog hunting is much more restrictive. Aside from a short hog/coyote season on many WMAs that runs May 16-31, hogs can only be hunted on public land when something else is in season. And you can only use weapons legal for whatever is in season at that time. For example, if squirrel season is open on a WMA, you can hunt hogs on that WMA using small game legal weapons. If archery deer season is open on a WMA, then you can hog hunt on that WMA using archery equipment. The same holds true on Georgia’s national forests as well.
It’s also worth noting that no night hunting or baiting is allowed on WMAs or national forests. Electronic calls may be used. Hunter orange is required when hog hunting during firearms and primitive weapons deer and bear hunts.
Ossabaw Island WMA offers two unique quota hog hunts on one of Georgia’s beautiful barrier islands. This is a great opportunity with high odds of killing several feral hogs in a really cool island setting. Each hunt is limited to 100 hunters, and it currently takes around 6 preference points to draw the January hunt and at least 4 preference points to draw the February hunt. Drawn hunters must provide their own boat transportation to and from the island. There is no public ferry.
Legal Hog Hunting Hours
Private Land
On private land, hogs can be hunted any time, 24 hours a day. Hunting at night with night vision optics is very popular on private land, especially in South Georgia where the terrain is flat, and the hogs often congregate in agricultural fields to feed.
Public Land
On Georgia’s public lands, hog hunting can only be done during daylight hours from one half-hour before sunrise until one half-hour after sunset.
How to Hunt Wild Hogs
Private Land
On private lands, most hog hunting is done with the aid of bait. Corn piles or feeders are put out with stands placed in close proximity. A trail camera on the bait will give you excellent intel about if and when the hogs are using it. Once the hogs are feeding on a regular pattern, it’s time to get in there and shoot some.
Another popular method of hunting hogs on private land is with the use of night vision equipment. This can be done over bait as described above, or on some of the large agricultural fields of South Georgia.
Public Land
Hunting over bait or night hunting are not options for Georgia public land hog hunters. On public land, most hog hunters simply get out in areas where hogs are likely to be — along waterways and in thick cutovers — and simply ease their way through the area looking for fresh sign along the way. You’ll often hear hogs well before you see them, so staying alert and keeping a constant lookout for fresh sign and movement is key.
Another option on public land is to hunt them like deer. That means scouting for the freshest sign and, once you find it, hanging a stand or setting up on the ground and waiting for the hogs to come to you.
Obviously the spot and stalk or set up over fresh sign methods will work on private lands to, but most hog hunters forgo that for the ease of using bait.
Best Places to Hunt Hogs in Georgia
According to the USDA, feral hogs exist in all but a few counties in Georgia. It’s no surprise that those counties make up the metro Atlanta area. What that means is there are hog hunting opportunities across the entire state. However, that doesn’t mean that every county is overrun with feral hogs.
Feral hogs are often pretty spotty across the landscape, with an affinity for traveling major waterways, like the Chattahoochee, Oconee, Flint and Ocmulgee rivers. Keep in mind that while one landowner may not have a hog on his property, another one two miles down the road may be covered up with them. And the guy that’s covered up with them today may not have any a few weeks from now. Feral hogs cover a lot of ground and respond quickly to hunting pressure.
If you’re planning on hunting private land, the best thing to do is scout for recent sign – rooting in particular – and hang trail cameras when you find it. If there are hogs in the area, then you can put out a corn pile or a feeder to see if you can get them coming in regularly.
Best Public Lands for Hog Hunting
If you’re looking to hunt hogs on public land in Georgia, then you have plenty of options. There are probably more WMAs that have hogs than those that don’t. But there are certainly WMAs that will provide you with a much higher chance of hog hunting success than others. Here are a few of the better known WMAs for finding hogs:
Cohutta WMA (northwest)
Pine Log WMA (northwest)
Swallow Creek WMA (northeast)
Tuckahoe WMA (east-central)
Di-Lane WMA (east-central)
Oaky Woods WMA (central)
Ocmulgee WMA (central)
Chickasawhatchee WMA (southwest)
Flint River WMA (southwest)
Beaverdam WMA (south-central)
Big Hammock WMA (south-central)
Altamaha WMA (southeast)
Townsend WMA (southeast)
Summary
Georgia hog hunting can be challenging, but very fun and rewarding as well. It’s a great way to spend time during the off-season, as well as a great way to sharpen your spot-and-stalk skills.
With a little research and scouting, you should be able to locate some areas that hold feral hogs that will provide you excellent odds of success.
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