There is a specialized law enforcement department that has the sole responsibility of protecting our natural resources. Collectively referred to as game wardens or conservation police officers, these men and women are the ones who interact with hunters and fishermen to make sure those taking our natural resources are following the rules, including hunting seasons, bag limits, means and methods, to name a few.

Game wardens are probably the least known of all law enforcement officers. Most are state peace officers, which means they must know all state legislative laws as well as all the game and fish laws. Many times they work by themselves, often out of radio communication or cell phone service. Game wardens routinely encounter multiple armed violators to whom they must issue citations or take into custody on their own. Game wardens usually work more than 40 hours a week, and often are gone from their homes and families for weeks. Needless to say, game wardens are dedicated law enforcement officers.

Unfortunately, we now live in a society where disrespecting law enforcement is becoming the norm for many individuals in our communities. Many even actively seek to harm law enforcement officers. If you are in the field often enough, you will eventually encounter a game warden. How you react to that encounter can set the tone on how the interaction will go.

It is important to remember that game wardens have a job to do, and they take that job very seriously. The game wardens with whom I have spoken have told me that there are things that sportsmen and women can do to make sure that any encounter is pleasant and uneventful. Game wardens are almost all in agreement in what you can do to keep yourself as well as the officer safe, and to avoid any misunderstandings. When you encounter a game warden you should display your firearm in a safe manner, have all your documents ready for inspection, have a good attitude, comply with requests, and do not look to be offended.

1. Make Sure Your Firearm is Displayed Safely The first thing that you should do when you see a game warden approaching is to display a safe firearm. A game warden knows that everyone they encounter is armed with either a firearm, knife or both. This ensures the safety of not only the game warden but also the person who is being checked. Remember, the game warden usually has no idea whom they are approaching, nor do they know their intent.

If you see a game warden approaching from a distance, keep your muzzle pointed in a safe direction and unload your firearm, leaving the action open to display a safe firearm. It is always a good idea to lay your firearm on the ground and place it in a rack or some other place that you can walk away from it. If the game warden appears suddenly, do not make any sudden moves with your firearm, including unloading it. With your firearm pointing in a safe direction, acknowledge the game warden and wait for him or her to ask you to unload. You can also ask the game warden if you can unload your firearm. The game warden may ask you to set the firearm down and have you move a safe distance away from it. Remember, the game warden is allowed to give you lawful requests for everyone’s safety.

It is important to remember that everyone is a little jumpy these days, and that includes game wardens who just want to make it back home to their families. Several game wardens relayed stories to me regarding individuals who refused to unload or place their firearm down. Luckily the game wardens handled the situation professionally without anyone getting hurt.

2. Have Your Documents Ready If you are hunting, you know that you need a hunting license. Your license is subject to inspection by a game warden. Most states also require a valid identification card to be on your person while engaged in hunting. Therefore, it should not be a surprise to anyone that a game warden is going to ask to see these documents. In addition to a hunting license and a valid identification card, there are other documents the game warden might ask to inspect, depending on the game you are hunting. These might include stamps, permits and tags, as well as anything else you are required to be in possession of while hunting a specific animal in a specific area.

It should go without saying that these documents should be readily accessible. This means that everything should be able to be presented to the game warden immediately. All required documents should be carried in a way that you do not have to disrobe to get to them. It you are waterfowl hunting and wearing waders, your documents should be stored in a waterproof bag in the top compartment. Licenses and other documents should not be left in the truck or back at camp. Game wardens are very busy, and they want to move on to the next hunter—just as much as you might want them to.

3. Have a Good Attitude Most officers will tell you that an individual’s attitude is a major factor when it comes to setting the tone of the encounter. That tone is usually established within the first 60 seconds. If an individual has a bad attitude from the start, this will probably inadvertently cause an escalation of tension. An individual that has a bad attitude is more likely to fail to display a safe firearm or comply with lawful orders. Unfortunately, if this occurs, the game warden will have to address this increase in tension through the “force control continuum.” This allows any peace officer to use one force higher than the force used against him or her. Fortunately, most peace officer are trained in, and can effectively use, de-escalation techniques.

There is no reason to have a bad attitude, after all, you are hunting! You are outdoors, enjoying nature and away from the office! If you have a good attitude when you meet a game warden, you are sure to have a good attitude when the game warden leaves. If you have a bad attitude when you meet a game warden, you are sure to have a bad attitude when the game warden leaves.

4. Comply With Requests It is always important that you comply with any lawful request by a law enforcement officer, and this includes game wardens. A game warden will ask the hunter to do specific things during an encounter to keep all parties safe and to efficiently perform an inspection of game and the equipment used to take natural resources. Any failure to comply with a request from a game warden is the surest way to increase the tension of the encounter. This can lead to citations or even an arrest. The quickest way to complete an inspection and get back to hunting is to comply with any request from a game warden.

5. Don’t Get Offended Do not take anything personally. Remember, game wardens are just doing their job. We now live in a society of individuals who are looking to be offended. Just like in any profession, game wardens go through a process to achieve an end. In the case of a game warden, he or she is to conduct an inspection to make sure that all game and fish laws are being followed. There is no ulterior motive in their inspections other than doing their job.

Several wardens relayed stories that provided examples of those individuals looking to be offended. One game warden told me how he asked a waterfowl hunter on dry land, who was wearing waders, for his hunting licenses and identification. Because the hunter did not have his documents where they were readily accessible, he had to lower his waders to get to his pants pockets to retrieve them. The hunter then loudly protested, claiming the game warden had him “disrobe” in front of his family to humiliate him!

Happy people tend to be happy hunters. Unhappy people tend to be unhappy hunters. The vast majority of game wardens that I have met have generally been happy people, who truly have a passion for what they are doing and enjoy encounters with the public. Attitude is contagious. If you have a good one, you’ll quickly infect others with it!

March 18, 2015

Kari:

Finer salt works best. Alum (aluminium sulfate) is a pickling compound that can be found in bulk at feed stores. I like it for bunnies because other methods of tanning such thin hides have resulted in a lot of work for semi-softened product. I recommend trying various methods to see which you like best!

1. Mix 1 cup salt + 1 cup alum + 2 gallons of H2O

Use 5-10 bunny hides, case skinned, fur side in and no de-membrane necessary. Case skinned means you pull off the skin like a sock. The membrane is the layer that holds the skin to flesh. The middle, the layer we want to work with, is an epidermis layer. The part that holds the fur to the skin is called the grain.

Soak hides for 2 days, stirring twice a day to make sure all folds get equal access to solution.

2. After 2 days, take out bunnies and squeeze solution from them back in to bucket- save solution! Peel off membrane (non-fur side). It is easiest to start at the bottom near the rump. Peel off all that you can- the hard work will pay off, the easiest time to peel this stuff off is now. Peel until pure white under-layer is exposed. A rule of thumb is peel until there is nothing left that can peel. The neck is usually the thickest and hardest to work.

Feed membrane to pigs!

3. After adding another 1 cup salt + 1 cup alum to the previously used solution, put bunnies back in solution. The bunnies need more of these compounds because they’ve probably already soaked up most of what you had put in the previous solution. So stir, and add bunnies back in.

4. I’ve found it best to let bunnies soak (stirring twice a day) for 5-6 days. I’ve been using frozen bunny hides mainly, so maybe that makes a difference, but I have found that hair tends to shed around 7+ days. The book says 7 days, so use your own judgement. Take out bunnies, toss solution, rinse, soap, and repeat the washing process again. Hides should be fur side out at this point. I think most soaps are good, I’ve used pine tar and dish soap before, and both seemed to work fine. Get all solution and soap out by the time you are done.

5. At this point you have some options. You can string the bunnies, hair side in, and let them dry and wait for a convenient time to work them. Or, keep them moist for a few days while you work them in batches. I recommend working 2-3 at a time, maybe more if you get a system down.

If you decide to work on a few now, then part hair down the middle of the belly and cut to make one flat hide. I part the hair to reduce the trimming of long hairs along the edge. Cutting along the belly is a good and common rule, but if you have a hole in the hide you might choose to cut a line including the hole to reduce holes in the main body of your hide.

6. I have found it useful to drip dry bunnies overnight and allow them to become a bit tacky before stretching. Stretching really wet hides doesn’t do much good and creates opportunity for ripping.

If you want to sew up any holes, do it before the stretching process with a tiny needle and trimming the corners of the hole to create an even surface when the hide is flat. Any thread should do, stronger the better probably.

7. So now is the fun part! You can stretch the hide all kinds of ways- between your hands, using your knees, over the back of a chair or on a corner. Get the middle and the edges, keeping a close eye on what seems to be drying and work it to keep it supple. If some part (usually an edge) is hard or yellow, give it a firm but gentle pull to release it into opening up. It will turn soft and pure white. I like to work the middle on the chair or a corner, as well as giving sharp pulls with my hands. Careful! Bunnies do rip. And it will happen. So test your boundaries and learn at what stage is best for what kind of stretching.

8. You will find out just how much time is needed in babysitting your hides. They don’t need to be stretched every minute, just keep an eye on them. When they are fully dry, give them a good shake and roughing up. It will help loosen things a bit. While drying keep at a cool or neutral temperature. Don’t heat or put by fire! They get crunchy! Sometimes it takes me 2 days to let a hide dry. Just let it take its time, it’s worth it!

I wrote a little ditty on harvest day of these rabbits. Warning: graphic content.

The Gigantopithecus Fibrartor is a territorial herbivore that appeared in the Pleistocene epoch.

It can be mistaken as another human due to it walking upright, it is usually seen roaming about foraging for berries to eat.

Territorial in nature, this beast will aggressively attack humans that invade its personal space.

It can give an advantage to its rider by crossing obstacles or by throwing them across and even up cliffs or walls.

Dossier

Dossier Summary

The Gigantopithecus while being observed is docile and just forages berries all day, but when approached, it is extremely territorial and will attack relentlessly those who invade its space.

While Gigantopithecus are adept at picking berries, they can also be taught by their masters to harvest fibers from bushes as it enjoys picking from plants and bushes over most activities.

One of the advantages of having a Gigantopithecus is its ability to toss survivors which can be used strategically to get to hard to reach places.

Check Out Our Other Creature Guides

• Shinehorn
• Yutyrannus
• Megatherium
• Mesopithecus

Abilities

Throw Rider

The Gigantopithecus can throw its rider or small dinos great distances or heights.

Throw Rider Default Controls:

• RMB (for PC)
• LT (for Xbox)
• L2 (for PS4)

Throw Carried Dinos Default Controls:

• Press Hold C (for PC)
• Right Stick (for Xbox)
• Right Stick (for PS4)

Uses

Resource Harvesting

Being adept at harvesting from bushes and plants, the Gigantopithecus can gather a good amount of berries and even fiber.

Defender

Being able to wear helmets, these creatures have a good amount of defense and their base damage is good enough to damage attacker as well as the knockback from their attacks can push away threats.

Damage Dealer

The Gigantopithecus can deal a lot of damage to enemies due to their fast attacks as well as their ability to catch up to enemies.

Transportation

As a multipurpose mount, the Gigantopithecus can carry a rider and act like an extension of the rider, to assist in swimming, running and even fending off even the largest dino’s.

How to Tame Gigantopithecus?

Gigantopithecus are passively tamed which means you need to carry a food item that it eats in your last inventory slot..

Approaching behind the Gigantopithecus is the best route to feed it because If sensed, the Gigantopithecus may attack and it will prolong the taming process or even end up with you getting killed.

Wearing the Ghillie Armor to mask your presence will give the opportunity to feed the Gigantopithecus safely which you need to repeat until the taming bar is filled.

Food

Kibble

• Regular Kibble

Other Food

• Vegetables
• Mejo berries
• Other Berries

Saddle

The Gigantopithecus does not need a saddle to be ridden and there are none to be crafted for it but it is possible for it to wear a helmet.

Breeding

Baby

After mating the female Gigantopithecus will gestate and birth a baby Gigantopithecus.

Drops

Resources Harvested From Gigantopithecus Body

• Raw Meat
• Hide

Variants

Aberrant Gigantopithecus

Aberrant Gigantopithecus can be found in the Aberration map.

Location

Gigantopithecus is usually found in the redwood forests in secluded areas where it can forage in peace.

Maps where there are Gigantopithecus:

• The Island
• The Center
• Ragnarok
• Valguero

Gigantopithecus Spawn Location:

The following are spawn maps where the Gigantopithecus can be found

The Island: https://ark.gamepedia.com/Spawn_Map_(The_Island)

The Center: https://ark.gamepedia.com/Spawn_Map_(The_Center)

Ragnarok: https://ark.gamepedia.com/Spawn_Map_(Ragnarok)

Aberrant Gigantopithecus Spawn Location: The Aberrant Gigantopithecus only spawns in the Aberration map.

Aberration: https://ark.gamepedia.com/Spawn_Map_(Aberration)

Overview

The Gigantopithecus is a peculiar mount capable of carrying a shoulder mount, a rider and the rider’s shoulder mount, it can chuck the rider and its shoulder mount high walls, assisting in infiltrating bases.

Giving the feeling of wearing a monkey suit when mounted on the Gigantopithecus, owners feel like they are a powerful creature, capable of pushing even larger creatures around.

You can also use the Gigantopithecus in a rousing game of pass the dodo with your tribe or allies to pass the time.

Air rifle pellets have been traditionally made of lead or lead alloy. However, in recent years, manufacturers have experimented with different materials, such as bismuth and tin alloys, iron, zinc, and tin. Some pellets are even made of plastic. In this blog post, we will explore the different materials air rifle pellets can be made of and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Why are airgun pellets made of lead?

The traditional material for airgun pellets is lead because it is soft and malleable. This means it can be deformed upon impact without shattering, which makes it ideal for use in air rifles. Lead is also relatively heavy for its size, which gives it good momentum when fired from an air rifle.

One of the disadvantages of lead pellets is that they can be harmful to the environment if not disposed of properly. Lead is a toxic metal that can leach into the soil and contaminate groundwater. It can also be harmful to animals if ingested. For these reasons, some countries have banned the use of lead pellets altogether.

Copper-coated airgun pellets

Copper-coated airgun pellets are made by coating a lead pellet with a thin layer of copper. The copper coating protects the lead core from corrosion and makes the pellet more aerodynamic. Copper-coated pellets are generally more accurate than traditional lead pellets because they are less affected by crosswinds.

The main disadvantage of copper-coated pellets is that they are more expensive than traditional lead pellets. Copper is a more expensive metal than lead, so copper-coated pellets typically cost 20-30% more than their lead counterparts.

Lead-free airgun pellets

Lead-free airgun pellets are made of alternative metals, such as alloys of bismuth and tin – or iron, zinc, and tin. These alternative metals are less dense than lead, so they are not as effective for long-range shooting. Lead-free pellets are also less aerodynamic than traditional lead pellets, so they are less accurate in crosswinds.

The advantage of lead-free pellets is that they are not harmful to the environment like traditional lead pellets can be. Lead is a toxic metal that can leach into the soil and contaminate groundwater. It can also be harmful to animals if ingested. For these reasons, some countries have banned the use of lead bullets altogether.

Conclusion

There are a few different materials that air rifle bullets can be made out of, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. The most common material has traditionally been lead or a lead alloy because it is soft and malleable ( meaning it can be deformed on impact without shattering) , relatively heavy ,and inexpensive . However ,lead bullets can be harmful to the environment if not disposed properly . As an environmentally friendly alternative , some people choose copper -coated bullets ,which despite being more aerodynamic and accurate ,are significantly more expensive . Finally , there are lead -free bullets made out of alternative metals such as bismuth ,tin ,iron ,zinc ,and plastic . While being eco -friendly ,these alternatives lack the range and accuracy of both traditional lead bullets and copper -coated bullets .

Ravin released the R26 as their most compact crossbow in 2019. With an ultra-narrow width of just 5.75 inches when cocked and only a total length of 26 inches, the R26 is a compact yet very powerful crossbow that shoots arrows at 400 FPS!

Ravin Crossbows is one of the best crossbow manufacturers. Ravin has been dominating the crossbow market for a long time together with TenPoint, Excalibur and Barnett. Ravin has designed some revolutionary new features like the HeliCoil technology, Versa-Draw cocking system, Trac-Trigger firing system and a frictionless flight-system. Ravin’s R29X, R29X Sniper and R29 sniper models also feature a fully integrated Silent Cocking System.

The R26 Ravin crossbow has a completely new frictionless flight-system so that the arrow does not make contact with the rail! Together with their HeliCoil technology, this ensures high speeds and high accuracy. This crossbow works with a cocking mechanism that is very safe and easy to use. Because of all of these amazing features, this crossbow can be used by everyone!

Ravin R26 Compact 400 FPS Crossbow Features

Extra Features

Ravin managed to make the R26 the most compact and lightweight crossbow currently on the market, still feature an amazing number of high-tech features and reach speeds of over 400 feet per second!

Ravin’s R26 features HeliCoil technology, Versa-Draw cocking system with an ambidextrous removable draw handle, Trac-Trigger firing system, frictionless flight-system and a premium 100-yard Illuminated scope from Ravin themselves.

Size and Weight

With just 9.25 inches wide when cocked and 5.75 inches wide uncocked and just a total length of 26 inches, the Ravin R26 is the most compact crossbow we’ve ever got to shoot. Even though it’s a very compact crossbow and only has a power stroke of 9.5 inches, the Ravin R26 can still shoot arrows at blistering speeds.

The R26 is also a very lightweight crossbow, only 6.5 lbs.! It feels really well balanced, not nose-heavy at all. Ravin did a fantastic job at making this a compact and lightweight crossbow.

Speed and Arrows

Ravin advertises the R26 as a 400 feet per second crossbow. We wanted to test this out, because it’s so compact and lightweight that we thought it’d be impossible to reach the 400 feet per second with the crossbow pre-assembled, pre-tuned and sighted by Ravin.

We were amazed at reading the speeds of the R26 on our ProChrono chronograph. 407, 405 and 411 feet per second! That’s even higher than advertised by Ravin.

Ravin supplies 6 Ravin 20-inch, 400 grain, match-grade arrows with field tips. The field tips weigh 100 grains, the carbon arrows 300 grains. Usually the arrows that are provided with certain crossbows are just either too lightweight or straight up garbage. We think that the 400 grain arrows that Ravin delivers with the R26 are perfect.

These arrows have Ravin-engineered polymer nocks. Make sure the nock actually “clicks” into the string. If you didn’t properly load the crossbow, the trigger will not move into firing position.

WARNING: DO NOT USE NON-RAVIN ARROWS OR NOCKS WITH YOUR RAVIN CROSSBOW.

Scope

Ravin installed a 100 Yard Illuminated Scope on the Ravin R26. The scope measures 8.75 inches and has a variable speed and arrow drop compensation setting. The scope has 9 dots calibrated for 20 to 100 yards. It’s a perfect scope for crossbows that shoot 400 feet per second. The scope is tested to be fog-proof, weatherproof, shockproof, and recoil-proof.

Assembling and Disassembling

Ravin ships the R26 fully assembled and pre-tuned. You’ll only have to level the scope. To level the scope, we highly recommend you to get a Ravin Scope level. You can use this Ravin scope level for the R26, R29 and R29X crossbows.

Ravin designed the R26 to be easily carried with you in the field. It has 3 locations where you can attach the Ravin Backpack or shoulder slings.

At this price we really expected a crossbow case included with the package, there isn’t. You can either buy a Ravin soft case separately for around $150 on Amazon or on Ravincrossbows.com for $159.99.

If you’re thinking about getting the R26 crossbow with a crossbow case, you’re better off getting the Ravin R26 Predator Hunter’s Crossbow Bundle. It’s only around $100 more on Amazon and you’ll be getting the case and a Ravin Crossbows hat extra.

Cocking

One of the main features a Ravin crossbow sports is the built-in cocking mechanism with removable draw handle. Ravin patented it as the Versa-Draw™ Cocking System. With this cocking mechanism you’ll only need about 12 lbs. of force to fully cock the crossbow.

You can remove the draw handle and it’s possible to attach it on both sides of the stock. Unlike with TenPoint’s ACUdraw PRO or ACUslide you can not let go of the handle mid-crank.

While cocking the R26 is something to get used to, it’s also not the most silent way to cock a crossbow. Ravin’s R29X, R29X Sniper and R29 sniper models can also silently cock the crossbow.

We highly recommend to watch Ravin’s instructional video on how to cock the Ravin R26.

Shooting and Trigger

Ravin equipped the R26 with a Trac-Trigger firing system. The TTFS slides along the rail to catch the string, when the string is secured to the TTFS the safety and anti-dry fire will automatically engage.

The trigger mechanism works together with the TTFS. When you’ve properly cocked and loaded in an arrow, the trigger mechanism should automatically engage. If the trigger mechanism doesn’t engage, you’ve probably not loaded the arrow correctly. Make sure you hear a click when you load the arrow.

Ravin states in their manual that the trigger pull should be around 4.0 pounds. We tested this and actually came out at around 2.5 pounds.

The R26 is compact, lightweight and when you first look at it, you’ll probably think it’s a toy… We thought the same. After picking it up and shooting it, the toy-feeling instantly disappears. Ravin installed an ergonomic grip which makes this crossbow feel really good and well balanced in your hands. It’s very accurate and the amount of power from such a compact crossbow is just ridiculous.

Package Contents

The Ravin R26 comes fully assembled and pre-tuned. Included with your Ravin R26 crossbow package is the following:

• Ravin R26 Crossbow
• 100 Yard Illuminated Scope
• 3-Arrow Quiver and Quiver Bracket
• 6-Pack 400-Grain .003 Match Grade Arrows and Field Points
• Accessories Bracket
• Instruction Manual

Conclusion

Ravin managed to deliver a crossbow that’s very fast, yet compact and full of high-tech features. For smaller people, the Ravin R26 might be the best option right now. We were really hoping that Ravin would upgrade their cocking system so you can let go mid-crank just like with TenPoint’s ACUslide.

This is still an exceptional crossbow and you can’t find anything like it on the market today!

If you’re looking for a cocking mechanism that allows you to let go mid-crank, we would recommend you to take a look at our TenPoint crossbow reviews.

Shooting squirrels is not as easy as it may seem sometimes. They’re a small target, move fast, and sometimes they just don’t come out of the tree.

If you hit a squirrel in the wrong area, it is highly likely to make it back to its nest, where it will curl up and die.

For most scenarios, the best place to shoot a squirrel is in the head.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With a .22LR

The .22LR is the favored weapon for shooting squirrels across North America. Some people prefer scoped, and some prefer iron sights, but most people will agree that the .22LR is probably the best tool for killing squirrels.

The great thing about using the .22LR for squirrels is that it has just enough stopping power. A misplaced shot on a squirrel with anything bigger than a .22LR is likely to damage a large amount of meat.

Anything smaller than a .22LR, and it’s most likely you will only injure the squirrel if you misplace the shot. While a misplaced shot with a .22LR will still kill the squirrel with minimal damage to the meat. With that being said, you still want your shot to be on target, and with a .22LR, that target is the head.

The head is the best place to shoot a squirrel with a .22LR for three reasons.

• It’s the fastest kill
• It doesn’t damage the meat
• It doesn’t damage the pelt

Unlike hunting a deer where it is easier to aim for the vitals, this is not really practical with a squirrel. A squirrel’s vital area is much too small, and they move too often and too fast to aim for the vitals. A headshot usually signifies instant death for a squirrel, and it’s a good size target to aim for.

With this being said, a well-placed body shot with a .22LR will kill a squirrel, but if you are hunting for meat, why take the risk of damaging the meat and, more importantly, inuring the squirrel.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With an Air Rifle

If using an air rifle for hunting squirrels, there is only one place to aim, and that is at the head. With a shotgun, a bow, or the .22LR or you can aim for a body shot.

The idea of a body shot really shouldn’t cross your mind with an air rifle. They usually don’t offer enough power to warrant a body shot on a squirrel.

There have been times when I’ve hit squirrels in the body with a .22LR or only to have to follow it up with another shot quickly.

Squirrels are tougher than they look and have a tough hide. Hitting a squirrel anywhere other than the head with an air rifle will most likely just injure them to a point where they will die a slow death in their nest.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With a Shotgun

While there are a lot of fans for the .22LR when it comes to squirrel hunting, there are still quite a few people who will use nothing but a shotgun for squirrels.

The huge draw for using shotguns when out squirrel hunting is the ability to take a mixed bag.

Many people will claim that using a shotgun on squirrels will ruin the meat. However, most people who have used shotguns on squirrels contest otherwise.

Large squirrels like big fox squirrels have tough hides, and with a well-placed shot from a shotgun, only a few pellets will make it through to the meat. The force from being hit with a shotgun load is enough to knock a squirrel from a tree.

Shotguns serve great for squirrel hunting in the early season when there is still plenty of foliage on the tree, and it’s hard to get a headshot with a rifle this time of year.

When using a shotgun for squirrel hunting, a headshot is still the best shot you can take. This allows you to get a quick kill without putting too many pellets towards the body.

Where to Shoot a Squirrel With a Bow

Things begin to change when bow hunting for squirrels. No longer are you only limited to a well-placed headshot. While a headshot is still a perfectly fine shot with a bow, you are offered another option.

Choosing a body shot with a bow is perfectly fine as you’re not at risk of ruining too much meat, and there is little chance for the squirrel to escape.

If aiming for a head shot with a bow, it’s best to use judo points or blunts for a quick kill. If aiming for a body shot, it’s the same as a large game animal; you will want to aim just behind the shoulder.

This will put your arrow in contact with the squirrel’s vitals, with a small game head, it will quickly and humanely dispatch the squirrel.

Conclusion

When hunting squirrels, nine times out of ten, it’s best to aim for the head. This offers the cleanest kill and does not harm the meat or the pelt.

The only time you would not aim for the head is when using a bow which offers you the option of aiming for the body.

If you have a smoker or grill at home, you may wonder what the best fish to smoke are. While salmon and tuna are often the most popular options for smoking, home chefs will be pleased to know that dozens of fish make for delicious smoked meals.

Learn all there is to know about choosing the right fish for smoking and how to get the perfect cook.

Factors to Consider When Selecting Fish for SmokingWhen choosing a fish for smoking, consider these factors:

• Texture: The texture of the fish is crucial when smoking. Choose fish with firm, dense flesh that can withstand smoking without falling apart. Delicate fish may not hold up well during smoking.
• Flavor profile: Consider the fish’s natural flavor. Do you prefer something potent or light? The flavor should complement the smoky notes from the smoking process. For example, milder fish may absorb smoky flavors more readily, while stronger-flavored fish may provide a bolder smoky taste.
• Oil content: Fish with higher oil content tend to produce a richer and more flavorful result when smoked. However, you can still smoke leaner fish with proper preparation and smoking techniques.
• Size and thickness: Thin pieces may cook too quickly and become dry, while very thick pieces might take too long to smoke evenly. Choose fish portions that are of consistent thickness for even smoking.

Best Fish for Smoking

While personal preference plays a significant role in determining the “best” fish to smoke, these fish are welcome staples in many culinary settings:

1. Salmon

Salmon has a high oil content, particularly in the form of healthy omega-3 fatty acids, which not only imparts a rich and buttery flavor but also helps the fish absorb and carry the smoky aroma effectively.

In addition, salmon has firm flesh, making it resilient during the smoking process, resulting in a moist and flaky texture when done correctly.

As all salmon lovers know, this delicious and buttery fish is versatile, especially when smoked.

Whatever the case, salmon has long been a favorite in backyard barbecues for many reasons. Learn the best way to smoke salmon at home in our guide.

2. Trout

Trout has a delicate and mild flavor that quickly absorbs the smoky nuances of the smoking process, resulting in a well-balanced and flavorful product.

It also has firm, flaky flesh that holds up well during smoking. Compared to other fish, trout is relatively small, allowing it to smoke quickly.

Trout is a popular choice among anglers, making it readily available in many regions and a favorite for home smoking enthusiasts looking to enjoy the process from catch to table.

3. Mackerel

Mackerel has a robust and distinctive flavor that produces a flavorful and bold smoked fish.

It’s also naturally rich in healthy oils, helping absorb and retain the smoky aroma effectively.

Additionally, mackerel’s dense flesh holds up remarkably well during smoking, staying moist and flaky.

Smoked mackerel often appears in the form of pate, rice bowls, salads, and even sushi.

4. Bluefish

While not a popular tablefish, bluefish is an excellent choice for smoking due to its strong and distinctive flavor. This bold flavor profile stands up well to the smoking process, resulting in a rich, smoky taste.

Bluefish’s higher oil content enhances its ability to absorb and carry smoky flavors. Its firm texture remains intact during smoking, ensuring a moist and flaky dish.

5. Haddock

Haddock has that signature mild and slightly sweet flavor you look for when smoking fish.

This mildness allows the smoky flavors to shine without overwhelming the palate.

Plus, its firm and flaky texture doesn’t fall apart upon smoking.

It’s versatile and an excellent star for dishes like chowders and fish pies, whose smoked flavor imparts depth and complexity.

6. Whitefish

Whitefish, such as lake whitefish or whitefish from the Great Lakes region, is an excellent choice for smoking because of its clean and mild flavor profile. The smoke doesn’t easily overpower it.

It holds up well during smoking and is perfect for salads, spreads, or simply enjoying as a standalone smoked fillet.

You can smoke whitefish into a seafood paella, various salads, and tacos.

7. Swordfish

Swordfish is a unique and excellent choice for smoking, thanks to its dense and meaty texture.

Smoked swordfish tastes almost beefy and is often more savory than tuna, perch, or trout. Thus, it makes the perfect protein for tacos or even on crackers.

8. Halibut

Halibut is among the most versatile fish for smoking, making an excellent addition to dishes like risotto, tacos, or as a standalone fillet.

The leanness and firmness of the flesh allow for a delectable burst of smoky flavor, especially when marinated.

In addition, frozen halibut is available year-round, making it a popular choice for family barbecues.

Kyle’s Tips for Smoking Fish

When done correctly, smoking fish can be a rewarding culinary experience. Here are some tips for first-time smokers:

• Start with fresh fish: Use the freshest fish available. Freshness is critical to achieving the best flavor and texture in smoked fish.
• Prep the fish: Clean and fillet the fish properly, removing any bones, scales, and entrails. Rinse the fish and pat it dry with paper towels.
• Brine for flavor and moisture: Brine the fish for a few hours before smoking. Brining enhances flavor, helps the fish retain moisture, and adds a layer of protection against over-smoking. You can experiment with different brine recipes to customize the flavor.
• Air dry: Allow the fish to air dry for an hour or more after brining. The fish will form a pellicle or tacky surface layer that helps the smoke adhere.
• Select the appropriate wood: Popular wood chips and pellets include alder, hickory, apple, cherry, and oak. The wood you select will influence the flavor of the smoked fish.
• Control the temperature: Maintain a consistent smoking temperature, ideally between 180°F to 225°F (82°C to 107°C). Use a reliable smoker thermometer to monitor the temperature.
• Smoke the fish low and slow: Slow smoking allows the fish to absorb the smoky flavor gradually while retaining moisture and tenderness.
• Use a drip pan: Place a drip pan underneath the fish to catch any drippings, prevent flare-ups, and keep the smoker clean.
• Avoid over-smoking: Over-smoking can lead to a bitter or acrid taste. Smoke the fish until it reaches the desired level of smokiness, typically 1 to 3 hours, depending on the size and thickness of the fish.
• Moisture maintenance: Use a water pan inside the smoker to maintain moisture levels and help prevent the fish from drying.
• Check for doneness: Test for doneness by using a meat thermometer. The fish should reach an internal temperature of 145°F (63°C). It should be opaque and flake easily with a fork when done.

Remember that practice makes perfect when it comes to smoking fish. Don’t be discouraged if your first attempt isn’t flawless; learning the nuances of your specific smoker and your palate’s preferences may take some time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I smoke frozen fish?

You can smoke frozen fish, but thawing it thoroughly before smoking will yield better results.

Smoking frozen fish may result in uneven cooking and potentially unsafe conditions, as the outer layers may reach the desired temperature while the inner portions remain frozen.

Thawing the fish in the refrigerator or using a cold-water method ensures even cooking and better flavor absorption during the smoking process.

Can I use a regular grill for smoking fish?

You can use a regular grill for smoking fish through “indirect grilling.”

To do this, create a two-zone fire by heating one side of the grill and leaving the other unlit.

Place soaked wood chips or pellets in a foil packet on the lit side, then place the fish on the unlit side.

Close the grill lid, maintain the desired smoking temperature, and monitor the process carefully to achieve a smoky flavor while cooking the fish indirectly.

How do I store smoked fish, and how long does it stay fresh?

To store smoked fish, wrap it tightly in plastic wrap or aluminum foil to minimize exposure to air.

Then, place it in an airtight container or resealable plastic bag and store it in the refrigerator at temperatures below 40°F (4°C).

Smoked fish stays fresh in the refrigerator for about 5 to 7 days.

For extended storage, you can freeze smoked fish for 2-3 months, ensuring it’s well-wrapped and airtight to prevent freezer burn.

Summary

Fish is a highly underrated player in the barbecue game. If you have a grill at home, you’ll be surprised what you can do with the humblest of fillets.

For novice smokers, our wild Alaskan sockeye salmon is the ideal place to start. Learn the differences between lox, smoked salmon, and nova for the best results.

Question:When hunting big woods, what are the best terrain features to look for when trying to find deer signs? — Joe Barrett, Cheltenham, Pa.

Saddles

Why bucks use them: Saddles may not be my go-to terrain feature because they don’t occur everywhere, but they are easy to find and easy to hunt. Saddles offer the two things that bucks look for when traveling: the path of least resistance and a low profile. Mature bucks typically slink around like ghosts — just out of sight — they are around but not really visible. Saddles permit this behavior by reducing the amount of time the buck remains on the skyline.

Saddles accomplish the buck’s second goal by lowering the ridge line. When he is crossing from one slope to the other, the saddle makes the mission easier. Saddles funnel all manner of game. I have hunted some impressive trails through saddles up in the mountains when chasing elk, but here we will focus on whitetails.

How to find them: To find saddles you need a topographical map. Saddles will appear as a gap between the contour lines that make up the ridge top. It is easier to show you what a saddle looks like on a topo map than to try to describe it, so I have included a map image for that purpose.

The weakness of relying on topo maps to find saddles is the scale of most maps. Most depict a terrain variation of 20 feet between adjacent contour lines. That means that for a saddle to appear on the topo map, it has be 20 feet deep. I have hunted many saddles over the years that were only five to ten feet deep, yet they were very productive stand locations. There is only one way to find these shallow saddles and that is on foot. You have to walk the ridge tops. If the ridge dips you have a saddle. Start looking for stand locations.

How to hunt them: With a gun, saddles are a killing field. Set up along the top of the ridge, right where it drops off into the saddle. This gives you the best field of fire to cover anything using the saddle and by staying high, you remain in the consistent wind that stream over the ridge versus dropping down over the top where the wind is sure to swirl.

With a bow, most saddles are less exciting, but still worth hunting. Bucks don’t generally flow right through the bottom like water, so you have to pick a side. The wind, not the sign, dictates which side you should pick. If the wind is 90 degrees to the ridge, you can hunt either end of the saddle equally well. However, if it is quartering across the ridge, you must favor the downwind side of the saddle or you will spook too many traveling deer.

Saddles are best during the rut when bucks are actively cruising. They can also be very good on opening day of the firearms season when other hunters keep the bucks moving. Saddles are not as productive during the early bow season or during the late muzzleloader season unless they lie directly between feeding and bedding areas.

Bedding Ridges

Why bucks use them: I don’t hunt bedding areas early or late in the season because of the risk of spooking deer. However, during the rut, the reward is worth the risk. Things are more chaotic and the deer don’t notice my coming and going as readily. Bucks move through these bedding areas looking for does, creating activity that is very consistent. Many of my best bucks have come from this exact pattern and I look for it as my number one morning option everywhere I hunt.

I hunt ridges nearly every morning during the rut because that is where I find the action. Bucks come through these areas looking for does all morning long. I once hunted a single ridge stand 14 mornings during a 16-day stretch. It never grew old and I eventually shot a great 10-pointer.

The buck parade typically starts shortly after the does arrive — roughly an hour after sunrise. They stay on their feet until late morning if the day is cool, offering several hours of possible action each day.

How to find them: Like all terrain features, ridges show up best on a topo map, but because of shadowing, ridges also show up pretty well on aerial photos. Finding a ridge is only the start, you then need to decide where along the ridge to hunt. I favor funnels in all my whitetail hunting, and surprisingly there is a common funnel on ridge tops.

The areas where a ridge narrows are natural locations for a tree stand. In most parts of whitetail country, a ridge narrows because a draw or ravine runs up from the valley below to end at this point along the ridge line. As deer travel the side of a ridge, they will detour up and around that ravine. So at the place where a ravine cuts into the side of the slope, the bucks will bottleneck closer to the top of the ridge. This is also a natural place for bucks to cross a ridge, another reason to select a stand right at the head of a ravine.

How to hunt them: Determine where the deer are likely feeding and then enter the ridge stand from the opposite direction. Don’t hunt the stand unless the wind is blowing from the feeding area toward the bedding area (into your face as you walk in). Once settled in the stand, the wind will carry your scent over the valley on your downwind side (assuming the ridge is at least 60 to 80 feet high), and ideally over the noses of any deer traveling the valley below.

I have hunted a few of these stands where the conditions were perfect. There was literally no way for the deer to smell me because the ground dropped away quickly on the downwind side and my scent didn’t hit the ground until it was hundreds of yards away and sufficiently diluted that it evoked no reaction from the deer. I love setups like that.

Ditch and Creek Crossings

How bucks use them: Now we are getting into what I think is the best natural stand location in rolling or rugged areas. Again, we are dealing primarily with bucks that are on the move during the rut. They are covering ground and looking for does. In the course of their travels, they will have to navigate through (and around) creeks and ditches. You can easily find and hunt the crossings they are likely to select. I bet ditches and creeks have played a role in at least a third of the bucks I have shot in my life.

How to find them: Ditch and creek crossings are the first thing I look for when hunting a new area. In fact, where these terrain features are common, you can build your entire season around them. Creeks scream at you from topo maps, are obvious on aerial photos and you literally stumble over them (or into them) when walking the property. Ditches are less obvious from the map study, but equally easy to find with your feet on the ground.

Creek crossings generally occur at the center of an S curve in the creek. The bends of the S are generally holes with high banks on the outside while the straight portion between bends is generally shallower with a lower bank. That is where the deer cross.

Some creeks don’t meander, making it much harder to find crossings without actually walking the banks of the creek, looking for cross trails.

Ditch crossings typically take three forms. Either the deer go around the ditch at the top or bottom (comprising the first two forms) or they cross the ditch itself at a place where the banks are gradual. The first two crossings are easy to find from a map study, but you have to walk the ground to find the third type.

How to hunt them: This is why I love ditches and creeks. They offer a no-brainer entry and exit route. At least half of my stands rely on creeks or ditches to permit undetected access. I get right down in them and sneak along. Even if I don’t hunt right on the edge of the ditch or creek, I use it to get in and out.

Go in before the season with a chainsaw and remove all the brush and fallen trees from the ditches so you can walk through easily and quietly, even in the dark. Now you have a corridor that permits you to stay out of sight, keep your noise to a minimum and lay down scent in a place where deer are unlikely to walk. This is the definition of the perfect entry and exit route.

Creeks are not as easy to navigate when they are carrying a lot of water, but when they are low they also represent the perfect access route. In fact, I like the undetected access afforded by creeks and ditches so much that I go out of my way to find stands along these corridors just so I can use them to slip in and out.

Field Crossings

How bucks use them: Many people call them swales. If you think bucks love to use saddles when they are located in the woods, you should see the way they use them in an open field. These swales are basically saddles across open fields, a way for the buck to stay out of sight as he traverses open land.

How to find them: These crossings are generally evident by two brushy ravines on an aerial photo. The ravines extend into the open ridge from the opposite slopes of the ridge, pointing at each other like huge, brushy fingers. This is the narrowest crossing point on the ridge — again reducing the buck’s exposure while traveling.

How to hunt them: The opposing brushy fingers are both good stand choices, deciding which to hunt comes down to the direction of the wind and the availability of good trees. This would be a good stand for all phases of the rut and the place that bucks will use to enter the field to feed during the early and late season — an all-purpose stand. These are fun spots to hunt too, because you can see well in all directions.

Bluff Edges

How bucks use them: Any buck cruising along a side hill will funnel up the slope to bypass the steepest section by walking the bluff edge. Very rarely will they traverse the near vertical slope unless someone is pushing them. One of my best stands of all time was located at the top of an abandoned rock quarry.

Talk about a steep bluff! I hunted it when the wind was blowing out over the quarry so no deer ever smelled me on stand. I accessed the stand by walking up the slope, right on the edge of the quarry, so I got in and out without detection. I messed up on one of the biggest 8-pointers I have ever seen in my life from that stand, but that is another story.

How to find them: You can sometimes see bluffs when studying an aerial photo, but they are much easier to see on a topo map. Where terrain is the steepest, contour lines are very close together signifying a fast change in elevation. When you see contour lines that are close together, you are looking at a bluff.

How to hunt them: As mentioned, bluff stands are among my favorites because they offer incredible advantages and a very straightforward hunting plan. Place your stand near the edge of the bluff and then hunt it with the wind blowing out over the valley below. There is no way that a deer will be able to smell you. If you can climb the bluff from below, you have the ultimate stand setup, one where the deer never detect your entry or exit and they never smell you while on stand. It doesn’t get any better than that.