We have discussed a lot of different types of batteries on our blog. We have talked about batteries based on performance, functionality, weather, usage and a lot of other factors.

In this article, we are going to discuss the different batteries available for you if you need a car battery, specifically the best group 27 deep cycle battery. Different cars with different designs require different size batteries.

Now, if you know about batteries, you must also know that the design of batteries also affects their performance. As it turns out, Group 27 is one of the most popular battery groups and is very common in vehicles, both terrestrial and marine.

Group 27 batteries offer a great size-to-performance ratio. They are mostly used in vehicles requiring high power such as Jeep Wrangler. Group 27 batteries are also seen in other domains such as scooters and other appliances. It greatly depends on what the type of battery is.

In this article, we’ll be mostly looking at deep-cycle batteries. It is very important, however, to figure out beforehand what kind of battery fits your requirement. Getting the wrong battery can be a real hassle and can often cause problems in the long run.

Luckily, we have discussed at the end of this article how you can find the best deep-cycle battery for you. But before that, let us have a quick look at the different products available in the market for you to choose from.

Best Group 27 Deep Cycle Batteries – Our Top Picks

How to find the Best Group 27 deep-cycle battery?

Choosing a good battery can be really tricky but in this section, we are going to talk about a few points you can keep in mind while buying a new deep-cycle battery.

Since you have already identified the size of the battery you want, a lot of the work is already done. Keep these points in mind when you buy a deep-cycle battery.

Capacity

Needless to say, one of the most important features of deep-cycle batteries is their capacity. 100Ah batteries are widely used but that doesn’t mean that a 100Ah battery would be the best choice for you too.

As the capacity increases, the price also increases and you should try to figure out your exact power consumption to get a good idea of the exact battery capacity you need. It will help you save some money and also improve your overall performance.

Battery Type

We have looked at a few different battery types in this article. Flooded, AGM, Li-Ion and Gel are some of the most common battery types available in the market. Each has its own advantage and disadvantage.

Before you buy a battery, make sure you read about the different battery types available in the market and see which one’s the best for you.

Price and Warranty

Last but not the least, you should always make sure that you get reliable batteries. Getting a reasonably priced battery with a good warranty is a safer option than buying cheap batteries with no warranty.

There are a lot of budget options when it comes to batteries but make sure the battery you are buying has a decent quality.

Batteries with warranties are always a good deal as it makes sure your investment is safe in case something goes wrong.

Here is a helpful video on how to choose the right car battery:

FAQs

Conclusion

In this article, we discussed the best Group 27 deep-cycle batteries available in the market. Towards the end, we also talked in brief about some things you should look out for while buying yourself a deep-cycle battery. We hope you found the article helpful.

There are many ways to fill PCP air rifles: scuba tanks, hand pumps, and High-pressure air compressors. The most inexpensive way is to use a hand pump. In this blog post, we will provide you with three tips on how to use a hand pump for your PCP air rifle.

Hand pump tip 1 – Take it Easy

Do not pump longer than about five minutes. Then let the pump cool down for about 15 minutes between 5 minutes sessions. This will prolong the life of your hand pump. You don’t want to overwork it and then have to buy a new one!

Airgun Hand Pump Tip 2 – Watch Out For Moisture

Adding a moisture filter adapter to your air pump is a great idea. It can help remove moisture from the air that you’re compressing into your airgun. This is important because moisture can damage your airgun.

Airgun Hand Pump Tip 3 – Pumping To Higher Pressures

If you don’t mind a workout in five-minute intervals, that hand pump can be a great way to fill a PCP gun! Just remember to take breaks in between pumping so you don’t overwork yourself or the pump.

The beauty of regulated PCPs is that you don’t have to pump them all the way up. Just get them beyond the set pressure of the regulator and keep it topped off. (Like the Umarex Gauntlet)

Trout Fishing With Rapala Minnows by Bryce Stupples

My first introduction to the mighty Rapala was through a family friend who has featured in a number of my stories – Chalky (aka Bruce White). He uses nothing but Rapalas and seems to catch more than his fair share of large trout.

Rapalas always seemed a bit ”poncey” and the price was always a bit out of my league, ”imagine if you lost one at $20.00 each,” I often thought!

Over the years I heard more and more references to Rapalas being used to catch large fish, though more often than not these monsters were caught while trolling, and as I don’t get many opportunities to fish this way, they still held little appeal.

One day a colleague at work was pouring over a fishing gear catalogue. As we talked he pointed out how cheaply you could import these items, especially Rapalas, given that our dollar was a lot stronger at the time. Getting over that immediate cost factor had just been achieved and I found myself putting in an order for a variety of types and colours.

After about six weeks the package arrived and I was now armed with a number of 7 cm Rapalas. My selection included floating, sinking and articulated. The colours were rainbow, perch (black and gold) and silver.

My initial excursions saw me catch no more fish than normal. In fact, I would often revert back to the tried and tested Toby or Tassie Devil in order to catch a fish. However, I persisted and explored different ways of using these lures. I soon discovered their worth, and now use them as my number one weapon against trout. Hopefully the following experiences, observations and tips will provide other anglers with some new ideas when next fishing these fantastic “fish catching” lures.

1. Rapala Knot Always use the special Rapala Knot. This knot forms a loop that assists the lure’s distinctive action by allowing it some slack to shimmer like a stricken baitfish when retrieved. An alternative is to use a snap-swivel which does affect the action slightly but in my experience makes changing patterns and types a lot quicker and easier as I tend to change over lures a lot depending on the water conditions.

2. Wear Shorts! When fishing with Rapalas I always wear shorts and boots. The reason being that although I set myself up relatively cheaply they are still pricey to replace. I have stripped down and gone for a few swims to rescue ‘a snagged Rapala. In saying this, however, even though these have twin trebles they don’t seem to get snagged as often as other lure types. My theory is that the plastic lip combined with the nose-down shimmering action glides the lure over most stones and through the weed – submerged trees are a different story!

3. Lure Size Lure size doesn’t seem to matter too much. I have regularly witnessed small trout being taken on very big Rapalas. I prefer to use a size seven as it doesn’t look too big and it provides me with enough weight to be able to cast effectively. Anything smaller and unless you have a tailwind you will be wasting your time trying to cast with it.

4. Casting These lures are difficult to cast. But life is made a good deal easier if you fish with light gear such as a small graphite rod and reel spooled with line no heavier than an 8lb test. Some recommend you use split shot about 30cm up the trace to help with casting and sinking the lure. With practice, I found this unnecessary as it changed the action of the lure and increased the number of snags I was getting.

Hurunui River Monster Trout on Scarborough Reel, 6lb line and Rapala Lure.

5. Colours & Models Rapalas come in a wide variety of colours and styles. Everyone I know who fishes with Rapalas seems to catch fish with each individual having a different preference for a colour and style. For what it is worth the rainbow pattern is universal but I prefer the “black and gold” or ”perch” patterns for fishing southern waters.

For trolling I prefer the articulated models, but for rivers and lakeshore casting I use either a floating or Countdown, once again depending on the type of water I am fishing in. The Countdown is designed to sink at approximately one foot per second then hold a fixed depth while being retrieved.

The floating Rapala will float until retrieved, or it encounters resistance from the current. Recently I purchased some of the new Blue Fox range. These are cross between a Rapala and a Veltec (made by the same people at Rapala) and although I have yet to catch a fish on one, they impressed me with their action and castability.

6. Casting Upstream One of my preferred methods to fish a Rapala is to cast a Countdown upstream in a smaller river or stream in a similar fashion to the way one would cast a dry fly up current. With this method, I try to cast in such a way that the fish turns away from me to take the lure. In other words, make the fish turn towards the opposite bank to which you are standing on.

In the waters of the Oreti River where I predominately fish with Rapalas the fish spook very easily and if they see you will rarely take.

When fishing blind I start at the bottom of a hole or run, and looking directly upstream, cast at 10 o’clock to the far bank or far side of the main current. My next cast goes to 11 o’clock midstream, or mid current, then finally on cast directly upstream to fish the near side.

I then take a couple of steps upstream before repeating the process until I have covered all likely water. It is by this method – with a bit of practice – that I have had the most success and caught all of my big trout over recent years.

The important thing to remember is to wind fast enough with the current to maintain the swimming action of the lure.

The other point to bear in mind is that fish more often than not have taken the lure coming downstream, and therefore even with big fish, the takes are very subtle. So be ready or otherwise you will miss the strike!

7. Floating Downstream Using a floating Rapala and floating it downstream to retrieve up through the middle of a pool or over-hanging grass or willows is another tactic I often employ. This involved my starting at the head of the pool, or above the rapid feed the hole – often standing mid current – and allowing the current to take outline as the Rapala floats on the surface taking the natural course of the river.

When the Rapala is at the bottom of the pool or past the fishy zone you engage the reel and start slowly retrieving. This method fishes the lure right up to the side of the area where fish will be feeding and gives the fish plenty of opportunity to get a good look at the lure. This method allows you to fish a lot of water that you would not be able to access without spooking the fish or tangling with obstructions such as overhanging trees. Indeed how many times have you seen trout cruising underneath willows or lying hard up against the bank where the grass overhangs and wished you could cast to them? Give it a go.

Rapala Fat Rap Shallow Running Bibbed Minnow designed for fishing in shallow water.

8. Across and Down Across and down is the traditional way for spin fishermen to attack the water. I rarely fish with Rapalas in this way, but where a river is wide or is carrying a large volume of water there is often no other way to cover the water. In such water, the likelihood of spooking fish is less so it is, therefore, the tactic to employ.

9. Lake Margins Fishing lake margins and over weed beds gives you the opportunity to utilize the different characteristics of the different Rapala lures. The Countdown is good as it allows you to fish the bottom, or fish through the water at different depths by utilizing the predetermined sinking rate.

One word of caution is to remember that as the water gets shallower the lure will start to hit the bottom so be wary of those submerged snags!

The floating Rapalas are useful to cast over weed beds as they will only go under the water a metre or so. If you feel them catching on the weed stop winding and they will float back to the surface. A jerky retrieve is often useful in these situations as this will keep your lure ”fishing” at all times.

10. Trolling The few times I have trolled with Rapalas I have used the articulated models for no other reason than they look fantastic in the water. Their appearance perfectly replicates the swimming action of a small fish very well.

Friends of mine swear by the rattling models fished on a downrigger but they all report that the Rapala is one of the best lures to use when trolling for trout.

In general the wider and longer the plastic bib on the front of the Rapala the deeper it dives when trolling. This makes it possible, generally speaking, to choose a lure to dive down to the depth that fish are appearing at on your sounder.

Keep in mind that Rapala lures trolled a good distance behind a boat will usually dive and swim at over twice the water depth attainable from the same lure by casting and retrieving. Also when trolling on lakes most fish are caught trolling in: the shallower water near the lake’s margins, close to river mouths, along drop-offs, and cover, rather than out in the middle in the deepest water.

Rapala Shad Rap Deep Runner is an excellent lake trolling trout lure.

11. Releasing Fish A characteristic of Rapalas is that fish take them very well. With the treble hooks, they tend to stay hooked. This often poses problems for me when I look to release a big trout and it is bleeding or the middle treble has hooked the trout in the eye. Therefore when you have caught enough for the table, remove one of the treble hooks or change them over to singles to give yourself the best possible chance of returning fish safely.

So from early scepticism about the Rapala lure, I am now a confirmed believer in their ability to catch fish. Be prepared to experiment with them and the results may surprise you. Of the last ten trout, I have caught on a Rapala I can honestly say that they have averages 6 pounds.

Rapalas do of course have their uses in sea fishing. I have also seen anglers catch salmon on them in the Rakaia and Rangitata Rivers.

Once you get the feel for fishing with Rapalas you will want more than one.

We try to cover cool new fishing gear as it hits the streets, and as FishTalk reader know, nothing related to fishing is out of bounds. For the upcoming summer of 2022 we have four totally awesome goodies and we’re hoping that at least one of these will be of interest to you no matter what sort of an angler you are. Here goes:

Columbia PFG Shirts and Shorts

The Columbia PFG line makes no false promises — if anything, it overdelivers. Last summer, I tested out some of their gear both on and off the water to see how it holds up. Trying out their Women’s PFG Tidal II Shorts, Women’s PFG Tidal Tee II Long Sleeve Shirt, and Women’s PFG Tidal Tee Hoodie, I stepped onto boats fully outfitted in clothing to fish.

IMO, the most impressive feature of Columbia’s gear is how fast it dries. When tuna fishing in the Women’s PFG Tidal II Shorts and Women’s PFG Tidal Tee Hoodie they got totally soaked in fish blood, then blasted by a saltwater washdown to remove it. The spray removed all the blood, leaving the shorts looking new and dry within 15 minutes. Within 20, the Tidal Tee Hoodie was also totally dry. All of the clothing provided excellent movement and avoided chaffing; scooping crabs off the trotline truly put this to the test. During the scooping the clothes were comfortable, and the shirt cuffs even withstood the blue-crab-claw test. The PFG Tidal II Shorts also have two spacious front zippered pockets, which comfortably held my phone, wallet, and a variety of snacks throughout the day.

All in all, Columbia’s PFG line is lightweight, durable, highly functional clothing that’ll seriously up your comfort and flexibility on the water. Many of their options, including the ones I tested, offer Omni-Shade UPF 50 sun protection, an absolute essential for time on the water. While made for fishing, I also wore the shorts and both shirts while white water rafting, hiking, running, and generally out and about. I ended summer with a tan line proving how much I enjoyed these shorts — if you pick some up, I reckon you will too. Price: $40 to $60.

-By Mollie Rudow

Frabill Pow’R Source

New for 2022, the 12-V lithium battery Pow’R Source from Frabill is sure to power all your camping and fishing needs. The lightweight 10-amp-hour battery is housed in a hardy waterproof case that features two USB ports, a 12-V outlet, and binding ports. Whether you’re powering your fish finder, recharging your phone, or using the flashlight feature to tie on a bait, the Pow’R Source is a surefire way to power up your day out on the water. I tested it while kayak fishing and it powered my Garmin Striker fishfinder for four fishing days in a row, without making so much as a dent in the juice supply. Price: $219.99.

Snakehead Jawbreaker

Prying open the mouth of an angry snakehead is no easy chore, at least it isn’t if you don’t want your fingers perforated, but you’ll have to master the task to retrieve your topwater frog post-catch. Enter the Snakehead Jawbreaker. We spotted this inventive tool while wandering the Pasadena Sportfishing Group’s fishing tackle show, and it struck us as the perfect solution to the average snakehead’s angry attitude. Slide the bill into the fish’s mouth, squeeze the handles, and these reverse-hemostats ratchet open to spread the fish’s jaws wide and keep ‘em that way. The tool also has a large float attached so dropping it overboard isn’t a disaster. Price: $39.99.

Quattro Braid Fishing Line

Ever wonder what braid line looks like underwater? Well, the fish won’t tell us. We can, however, try casting with camo. We did just that after spooling up with Hi Seas four-color camo Quattro Braid in 20-pound test. The concept behind Quattro is incorporating blue, black, green, and red colors patterned in short random lengths, to break up visual patterns in the water. Yet you can still spot this line above the waterline like bright-colored hi-vis lines — without tipping off the fish to your line’s presence. This line feels like other braids with zero stretch and sensitivity that mono can’t even dream of coming close to. However, made with tightly woven ultra-high-molecular polyethylene fibers, it also offers a bit less diameter than some competitors and measures up at .008 inches versus the common .009 inches. If you like the idea of casting with 20-pound line that has the diameter of six-pound mono and offers a unique way to visually deceive those dwellers of the depths, check this stuff out. Price: $25.99/300-yard spool.

-By Staff

It seems that the wood duck’s survival strategies include behaving far differently than typical dabblers, thereby eluding hunters who cling to conventional tactics. Woodies show far greater ambivalence toward decoy spreads, they’re less tolerant of habitats near civilization, and their haphazard use of creeks and river systems complicates scouting efforts. However, with the right plan, ample opportunities exist to bag these strikingly handsome, challenging ducks. Here are five tricks.

Scout Covertly The best places to find wood ducks include beaver ponds, sloughs, forested backwaters and oak-lined portions of creeks. In the southern United States, flooded timber and swamps along river systems are especially productive.

Your goal is not only to find the birds, but to avoid detection. Wood ducks are known to vanish when disturbed, even if not by gunfire. So, approach suspected haunts with caution and use your ears. Woodies tend to be especially vocal on the water, and their contented squeals and chuckles are all the confirmation you need to plan a hunt. Their preferred habitats provide an advantage in this regard, as the surrounding trees allow you to creep along creeks and swamps while remaining hidden.

Tailor the Spread Finding the ‘X’ is critical, as decoying passing wood ducks (i.e. running traffic) can prove a frustrating endeavor. Wood ducks will decoy, but they’re not wont to do so well outside the vicinities of their intended destinations. Set up where the woodies want to be, and use your decoys to fine-tune their approach.

A small spread of about a dozen decoys is typically all that’s required. Don’t bother with a traditional ‘U’ or ‘J’ formation, as woodies frequently buzz the decoys without circling or regard to wind direction.

However, do ensure your spread consists mostly or entirely of wood duck decoys. While most dabblers will decoy to mallards, wood ducks much prefer to flock to their own species. I like to place a dozen woodie decoys upwind of the blind, with a spinning-wing decoy or small jerk rig in between. Motion is critical, both for visibility’s sake and because decoys amidst slack water scream fraudulence to wood ducks.

As a final touch, I position wood duck decoys closer to cover than I do mallards. I believe it’s a more natural setup, but it’s a fine line, as decoys hugging the shoreline are less visible.

Call ’Em In (Yes, you can) Rarely I’ve witnessed fairly distant wood ducks turn and coast in on cupped wings to calling. Far more often they maintain course, but if one time out of 50 calling wood ducks works, why wouldn’t you keep a dedicated squeal call on your lanyard?

Ideally, of course, you are where the wood ducks want to be. In that event, crisp chatter simply lets the wood ducks know where you are.

There is one time, however, that wood ducks respond to calling better than mallards: when they’re on the water. Woodies frequently paddle in like aquatic turkeys to squeals and chuckles. Once they’re lured in range, just stand and flush them from the water for a sporting shot.

Jump-Shoot Midday Wood ducks are among the most susceptible species to jump-shooting, particularly at midday as they loaf along forested creeks. Quietly walk or canoe the creek, readying yourself at every bend for unseen birds.

If you have a partner, all the better. Position him or her downstream, as wood ducks tend to follow the water as they flee an approaching hunter, thereby providing superb pass shooting.

Limit Pressure For whatever reason, many hunters like to invite several buddies for early season wood duck hunts. If your goal is shooting a few wood ducks and moving on to mallards for the remainder of autumn, by all means take advantage of the opportunity. However, know your spot won’t likely produce thereafter. Wood ducks are extremely sensitive to pressure.

The smarter approach is inviting one buddy, shooting a couple drakes and sneaking out. Thus your honeyhole is preserved and you aren’t back to square one.

Most hunters know how to remove choice cuts like the backstraps and tenderloins from deer. Fewer are as familiar with the legs, particularly the hindquarters.

This is a shame, as the rear legs offer fantastic cuts fit for various cooking styles. They’re also not as difficult to break down as many perceive.

First, if possible, hang the deer at least a day or two in cool temperatures to allow rigor mortis to subside. Also consider dry-aging before butchering. Done correctly in safe temperatures (33 to 40 degrees), it yields more tender and flavorful meat.

When it’s time to start cutting, use an area that provides ample space for the hindquarter and your tools. Consider a curved, semi-stiff boning knife and a straight, more flexible fillet knife for separating connective tissue and trimming. You also want a large cutting board, gloves, paper towels, a meat-storage container and plastic sheeting to cover the work surface and make cleanup easier.

There are two main ways to butcher a hindquarter: by removing the leg bone before separating the cuts or by taking individual cuts directly off the bone. Both are correct and often involve simply separating muscles along natural seams of connective tissue. I do better when removing the bone first, so I’ll focus on that method.

THE PROCESS

Step 1

Remove any hair, dirt, blood-shot and excess fat on the skinned hindquarter. All can contaminate meat and negatively affect flavor. Removing fat also helps reveal lines of connective tissue you’ll use to separate muscle groups.

Step 2

Remove the shank by slicing along the sinew lines between it and the round. Do this on both sides of the hindquarter with the tip of a boning knife. Cut the ligament opposite the shank. Then work the knife tip gently around the joint at the knee (not sawing at the bone) while using your offhand to move and apply pressure to the joint. Slowly, you’ll separate the shank from the round without needing a saw. If intended for grinding or stews, remove the shank meat from the bone.

Step 3

Set the round down with the inside facing up. The femur’s ball should be visible. Starting here, make a straight, shallow cut along the nearby seam down to the kneecap. You should feel the femur running beneath the tip of your knife.

Step 4

Cut on both sides of the kneecap and pull the meat back with your free hand. Continue cutting to expose the length of the femur. Work the blade tight around the bone’s contours, alternating cuts along both sides. Keep the blade flat against the curve of the bone, and don’t cut into the meat below. While holding the kneecap up with your offhand, cut below it and along the femur toward the ball until the entire bone is clear and comes free.

• READ MORE: 4 Steps to Field-Dress a Deer

Step 5

Pull the round apart with your hands. The still-connected individual cuts should lay flat on the cutting board in front of you. You’ll see a mass of connective tissue with a particularly thick concentration near the center of the round. Inside is a gland, which you should carefully remove by trimming the surrounding connective tissue. Left in place, it can taint the meat.

Step 6

Separate the cuts along connective tissue lines with your hands and knife tip. Seams are evident, so let nature be your guide. You should never have to cut into muscle. Trim excess fat and sinew, but leave the silverskin that surrounds muscles to protect meat during freezing. Leave cuts large to avoid exposing more meat to air.

THE CUTS

Larger cuts include the top and bottom rounds, eye of round and sirloin tip. You also have the sirloin butt (rump), tri-tip and shank. All are great in their own ways.

Top and Bottom Rounds

Pulled from the deer’s hamstring area, these cuts are quite versatile. They’re tender enough for cutting into steaks and hardy enough for making roasts or enduring low-and-slow cooking methods, like smoking or braising. Cube them into kabobs or slice thin for jerky or stir-fry. Or butterfly and pound them out for chicken-fried steak or jagerschnitzel.

• LEARN MORE: 15 of the Best Venison Sausage Recipes

Eye of Round

Called the hidden tenderloin because of its appearance, many cook them similarly. Pan-sear or grill whole, or as medallions. It’s also good as jerky or fajita meat, or it can be cured.

Sirloin Tip

Also called the sirloin, football or knuckle, the sirloin tip is tougher than the rounds but still makes great steaks, especially on young or aged deer. It’s perfect for a roast. Or it can be smoked, braised, ground up or turned into jerky.

Tri-Tip

A well-known beef cut, the tri-tip is mostly overlooked on venison hindquarters because of its small size and how it blends in with the sirloin tip. It’s great for flash-searing. Like tenderloins, lean toward rare and medium rare.

Sirloin Butt (Rump)

This cut’s size depends on how well you removed the hindquarter. It’s often small and used for pot roast, stew or grinding meat.

• MORE RECIPES: 10 Most Popular Venison Dishes

Shanks

Shanks get a bad rap. They’re tough, sinewy muscles that deer use often. Cooked improperly, they’re almost inedible. Cooked right—low and slow in liquid—they’re delicious. Shanks are perfect for osso bucco, braising on the bone or simmering in a broth to produce succulent stew meat.

SEAL THE DEAL

Should you use an external or a chamber vacuum sealer for meat storage?

The most common vacuum-sealing device is the external vacuum sealer. Place the open end of a sealer bag into a tray, clamp the lid down and suck air out of the bag. The other option is a chamber vacuum sealer. The entire bag goes inside the machine, and the sealer removes all air within the chamber—inside and outside the bag.

External vacuum sealers are inexpensive, and their design permits sealing larger cuts of meats. Chamber vacs excel at sealing liquids and other moist items. They’re great for marinating meats or for sous vide applications. They require more money upfront and are less portable.

With adjustable seal time and vacuum settings, and an integrated bag roll holder and cutter, the MEAT! Pro External Vacuum Sealer ($179.99; meatyourmaker.com) ups any hunter’s meat-preservation game. It’s also equipped with a removable drip tray for easy cleanup. For the hunter who freezes lots of meat or seals liquids often, there’s the MEAT! Chamber Vacuum Sealer ($799.99). This one also has adjustable seal time and vacuum settings, as well as a manual seal time mode. If you want professional-quality sealing, this is the ticket.

LAST UPDATED: May 8th, 2015

When John Feazell stood in the hunting department at Wal-Mart prior to the 2009 hunting season, he was faced with perhaps the biggest decision of his life. Okay, not really. But he was faced with the decision of whether or not to buy a new grunt call, not just any grunt call, the new Flextone Bone Collector. “I have about 20 different grunt calls at home, so I don’t think I need another” said John, as he put the call back on the shelf and began to meander through the aisles. As he was walking away, however, he recalls, “Something in my head just told me to go back and buy it, so I bought it. I figured that call, capable of the snort-wheeze sound, would work on a mature dominant buck.” Little did John know that his impulsive acquisition of a new grunt call would lead to a new state record in the state of Virginia.

John Feazell harvested this monster Virginia whitetail last fall. With over 220 inches of bone, he is easily the largest whitetail ever taken by bow in Virginia.

Saturday November 7th, 2009 was the second Saturday of the Virginia Muzzleloader season. The evening prior, John headed afield with his Muzzleloader to a spot where he usually experienced good deer activity. Luck was on his side that day, as he harvested a “solid 8 pointer.” The following day he and his father decided to head to their hunting property in Botetourt County, Virginia. Since he had just harvested a nice buck the day before, he lent his Muzzleloader to his father, who does not own one. “I figured I would let my dad use my Muzzleloader since I just shot a good buck. I told him that I had plenty of time left to get a good buck with a bow,” says Feazell.

As much as John Feazell loves whitetail hunting, he says it’s not his favorite animal to hunt. “Turkey hunting is my bread and butter, I live for Spring Gobbler Season,” says Feazell. However, when bow season comes around, he takes the sport very seriously. “I wouldn’t call myself a serious bowhunter, but when I bow hunt, I’m serious,” Feazell aptly describes. “I’m extremely cautious when it comes to my scent, especially. I like to wash my clothes in unscented detergent, dry them in earth scented dryer sheets, then they immediately go in my scent free tote. I leave little room for error when it comes to the whitetail’s nose,” he says. So with bow in hand, Feazell headed to one of his bow stands, since the rest of his hunting party were carrying muzzleloaders. Perched just below the crest of a mountain, Feazell made mention of this being a good place to experience activity as two giant rock formations funnel deer to two different saddles in the ridgeline.

John Feazell with his new state record.

After settling into his stand well before daylight, Feazell sees his first deer at 7:45 a.m. “I see it’s a big bodied deer, but I can’t make out what it is. It takes 5 steps and I see antlers. Oh man, golly what a deer!” The buck, then in the open, broadside at 50 yards and Feazell remembers thinking, “There is no way I am taking the shot, I am not screwing up this deer.”

But just as quickly as he came he was gone. The monster buck had topped over the mountain and out sight. Feazell recalls two sobering thoughts, “First of all, no one is going to believe when I tell them of the buck I just saw, and I just wish I had my muzzleloader.” A little over an hour goes by, and Feazell jokingly remembers contemplating going back to camp and getting a Muzzleloader and “sitting on that mountain for a month, or however long it takes for me to get that buck.” In the meantime a doe and a half racked 4 pointer make their way to Feazell’s location. “That doe came by at 20 yards, and for a split second I thought about drilling her. But I thought don’t be stupid, don’t shoot this doe,” he says.

A truly once-in-a-lifetime buck! From drop tines, to mass, to bladed brow tines, this buck has it all.

Feazell’s will power proved to be strong as he elected to pass on the doe. With the doe and 4 pointer still in sight, he noticed the young buck staring off in one direction, “looking shaky.” Feazell then turns and sees the big buck coming back from behind a Chestnut Oak tree. “No way, there is no way it’s that buck. You just don’t get second chances like this. No way, I’m going to shoot this deer,” Feazell recalls. As the big buck makes his way back towards the younger buck and doe, the doe beds down and Feazell remembers, “I just KNEW that as soon as that doe bedded down, the buck would do the same thing. And, 5 seconds after the doe laid down, the buck plopped down 30 yards behind me.”

Sitting in his ladder stand, Feazell had a limited viewing window of this buck. The bowhunter had to stand for nearly 45 minutes, peaking around the tree his ladder stand was hung on. After time, the younger buck, which had been browsing on acorns, angles from Feazell’s left towards his stand. This grabs the attention of the larger buck, and feeling threatened that this youngster is going to steal his doe, stares down the younger buck before they both eventually shift their attention to the doe.

It was then that Feazell remembered about his grunt call. “If it would ever work in a million years, it will work right now,” he says. Grabbing his Flextone Bone Collector, Feazell calls, and on the second snort-wheeze the larger buck comes to full posture on the younger buck. With ears back and hair bristled, the bruiser buck makes a false charge at the younger buck, and that’s all it took for the younger buck to “get out of dodge.”

The John Feazell buck officially scored 221 2/8″ as a non-typical and was believed to be at least 5 1/2 years old.

Making his way from the Chestnut Oak towards the doe the buck stops at 30 yards broadside. “I’d rather all my shots be 20 yards or less,” Feazell says. “But I’m comfortable out to 30.” With a window the size of a circular dining table to shoot through, Feazell had to bend his knees just a tad to fit the arrow through. He draws releases and misses! The arrow deflects off a small twig and harmlessly flies off. With his entire focus and attention on the doe, the missed shot confuses, but doesn’t alarm the buck. Unaware, of what just had happened the buck settled down, and the doe began to walk away.

Feazell, remembering of another call in his arsenal of gear, grabs his Primos The Great Big Can call and turns it over. The doe then comes back towards the tree stand within 25 yards in Feazell’s shooting lane, before angling back down the mountain. In the meantime, the monster buck began rubbing, or as Feazell put it, “thrashing and tearing up and down” a young Chestnut Oak. In the process the buck had lost sight of his doe.

What a gorgeous whitetail. Fortunately, this buck was harvested by an ethical, hardworking sportsman in John Feazell. Congratulations, John!

Remembering his Flextone Bone Collector call again, Feazell snort-wheezes twice in succession. Immediately the buck’s hairs bristle up and he goes into full posture walking stiff legged broadside. “Two more steps, two more steps,” Feazell recalls will put his buck at 18 yards. Feazell then draws his PSE Firestorm Lite and releases his Carbon Express arrow tipped with a Two-Blade Rage. Thawck! “You drilled him, you drilled him,” Feazell says. Watching his buck tear down the mountainside some 100 yards, Feazell saw his buck begin to stagger then fall down. An avid sportsman, Feazell said he simply couldn’t wait to claim his trophy. “I know about the 30 minute rule on even lethal hits, but I couldn’t help it. I let out a war holler and ran straight down to my buck, I saw him go down,” he says. With a 200+ plus inch deer on the ground within sight, I think we can all forgive Feazell’s eagerness to recover the fallen giant. After having sat and listened to John Feazell tell the story of his buck, I am convinced that it could not have happened to a better person. “I was just meant to kill that deer, it was 99% luck. All the cards had to fall together and they did, the Good Lord just wanted me to kill that deer,” he concluded. The John Feazell Buck ended up officially scoring 221 2/8 Pope & Young inches as a non-typical, making him the biggest buck ever taken by bow in Virginia. With 38 5/8 inches in non-typical points, the buck still grossed 189 2/8 inches as a typical.