While all dogs have the potential to nip and bite, some breeds have stronger bites than others due to their powerful jaws, large teeth and fearless character.

When researching dog breeds, it’s important to remember the factors that contribute to biting incidents, such as anti-social behaviour by irresponsible owners who train their dogs to be aggressive. Many dogs have been bred specifically for their intelligence and strength, while others may simply be the result of poor ownership.

To help us understand more about the dogs who bite, Norfolk-based animal behaviourist and trainer, Sarah-Jane White, has measured the strength of dogs by looking at the pounds per square inch (PSI) for each breed.

Take a look at the full list of dog breeds below…

1. German Shepherd

“The German Shepherd is a breed that is well-known for its strength and intelligence,” says Sarah-Jane White. “With a bite force of 238-291 PSI, this breed is often used for law enforcement, military and protection. German Shepherds are also popular as family pets due to their loyalty and obedience. They are the eighth most popular dog in the UK.”

2. American Bulldog

“The Bulldog is a strong breed of dog that has a very powerful bite,” explains Sarah-Jane. “With a bite force of 305 PSI, this dog is not to be trifled with! Often used as a guard dog or for protection, the American Bulldog is a breed that you want on your side. They are energetic and require a lot of exercise, but make great family pets.”

3. Rottweiler

“The Rottweiler is a powerful breed of dog that is known for its strength and intelligence. With a bite force of 328 PSI, this breed can definitely hold its own against other animals. Often used as a guard dog, the Rottweiler is a breed that you don’t want to mess with! They make really lovable companions with the right training.”

4. American Pit Bull Terrier

“The American Pit Bull Terrier is a breed that is known for its strength and determination. With a bite force of 240-330 PSI, this breed can definitely bring down larger prey,” Sarah-Jane explains.

“Pitbull terriers are legal in the United States. But in Canada, pit bulls are banned in many towns and cities. Puerto Rico had a two-decade ban in place until 2018, when it was once again made legal to own, sell and import the breed. They are banned in the UK.”

5. Mastiff

“The Mastiff is another large breed of dog that is known for its strength and power. With a bite force of 556 PSI, this breed can easily overpower other animals. This is more than three times the bite force of an average dog.”

6. Cane Corso

Sarah-Jane continue: “The Cane Corso is a breed that is known for its power and strength. With a bite force of 650 PSI, this breed can take down prey much larger than itself.”

7. Turkish Kangal

“The Kangal Shepherd is a Turkish breed of dog that is known for its large size and impressive strength. With a bite force of 743 PSI, this breed is the undisputed king of the canine world when it comes to raw power. Typically used to protect against wolves, bears, and jackals in its native Turkey due to its intimidating size and capabilities as an effective guardian.

“While all of these breeds are incredibly strong, the Kangal takes the top spot as the dog with the strongest bite in the world. With a force that is more than three times that of an average dog, this breed can take down prey much larger than itself. So, if you are looking for a dog that is not only powerful but also fearless, the Kangal is the breed for you!”

8. Dutch Shepherd

According to Petkeen, Dutch Shepherds are often used by law enforcement in different countries and nearly went extinct in World War Two. While the breed is still rare, their usefulness and powerful bite of 224 PSI has kept them around.

9. Tosa Inu

This large-sized breed, currently banned in the UK under the Dangerous Dogs Act, is known for its protection and powerful nature. Originating from Japan, they have a bite force of 556 PSI and have been sadly bred to fight completely silently.

Hunters stink and none of them can smell they’re own scent. That’s right. As much as we don’t want to admit it, everyone has a scent and none of us can smell it because our brains recognize it as our own.

Not to mention, humans have a very poor sense of smell compared to wild animals like deer, elk and bear.

For hunters, the bad news is that there is nothing you can do to get rid of your smell. You can wash and scrub all you want and the game you are pursuing can still smell you. And if game catches a whiff of your smell, you are out of business.

As a hunter, the best you can do is to try mask your scent from wild animals, when you are in the field. Of course there are countless products available that promise to effectively mask your scent, but not all of them work. Here are some tips on how you can mask you smell when you are hunting.

Avoid unnatural smells

A human’s scent can be easily detected by wild animals. With this in mind, it is important to not make your situation worse by adding unnatural smells that would increase the odds of an animal detecting you.

Common unnatural smells include gasoline, coffee, cigarettes, aftershave, detergents and soaps. Avoid these smells at all cost, if you want to remain undetected when hunting.

Reduce body odor

Body odor should not be confused with human scent. Body odor is produced by the growth of bacteria when you sweat. One way for hunters to reduce body odor is to use a soap that contains enzymes that kill bacteria. These soaps can help prevent bacteria growth when you sweat. Another step you can take is to dress in layers to help prevent overheating and sweating.

Dress to reduce smell

The clothing you wear can also help reduce the odds of animals smelling you. Scent control hunting clothing is specially manufactured so it prevents the production of bacteria. With less bacteria, you are less likely to smell. Of course this is not perfect, but it can make a significant difference.

Natural smells

One way to mask your scent is to use a natural smell that is familiar to animals and will not alert them to your presence. Rubbing dirt, leaves, pine needles and other natural materials on your clothing will help mask your scent from animals. Typically these materials have stronger scents than humans. They will not completely mask your odor, but they can help.

Overload

Among the many products available to help mask scents are sprays known as receptor overload. The spray confuses animals, because it overloads their system by bombarding them with so many different smells they cannot process them. This causes their brain to ignore the smells, thus keeping your scent masked from the animal.

Stay downwind

It may seem elementary, but one of the best ways to mask your scent is to keep your scent away from the animals you are hunting. Before you begin hunting, check the wind direction and make sure you are downwind of the direction from which animals will be approaching. This is a simple tactic, but it is very effective, even on days where there is very little wind.

© Abc4foto | Dreamstime.com – Hunter with optical rifle and binoculars

In the world of archery, choosing the best bow brand is paramount to your success. Whether you’re a seasoned archer or a beginner looking for their first compound bow, the quality of your bow can significantly impact your accuracy, performance, and overall enjoyment of the sport. In this article, we’ll guide you through our expert recommendations for the top compound bow manufacturers in the market today.

These bows offer unparalleled craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, and precision engineering, ensuring you have the best equipment to elevate your archery game.

The 10 Best Bow Brands

Sorted By Average Price – Highest To Lowest

1. Mathews Archery: Precision Perfected

Mathews Archery has earned a well-deserved reputation for crafting some of the most accurate and reliable compound bows in the industry. Their dedication to precision engineering is evident in their patented Single Cam Technology, which provides archers with a smooth draw cycle and exceptional accuracy. Whether you’re a target shooter or a hunter, Mathews Archery has a bow that suits your needs, making them a standout choice for discerning archers.

2. Hoyt: Tradition Meets Technology

Hoyt Archery seamlessly blends tradition with cutting-edge technology. As one of the oldest and most respected names in archery, Hoyt has a legacy of producing high-quality bows that have stood the test of time. Their innovative designs, such as the modular cam system, give archers the flexibility to fine-tune their bows for optimal performance. When you choose a Hoyt bow, you’re not just investing in a piece of equipment; you’re becoming part of a storied tradition of excellence.

3. Bowtech: Pioneering Innovation

Bowtech is a name synonymous with innovation. With a rich history of pushing boundaries and setting new standards, Bowtech has consistently delivered top-tier bows that cater to a wide range of archers. Their commitment to quality and performance shines through in every product they offer. From the accuracy of their Binary Cam System to the adjustability of their bows, Bowtech’s dedication to excellence sets them apart from the competition.

4. Elite Archery: Precision Redefined

Elite Archery takes pride in redefining precision in the hunting crowd. Their commitment to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched, resulting in bows that deliver unparalleled accuracy and consistency. Elite’s unique shoot-through riser design minimizes torque and vibration, giving archers the edge they need to excel. If you demand nothing but the best in terms of precision, Elite Archery is the brand to consider.

5. Prime Archery: Innovative Excellence

Prime Archery is known for its innovative approach to bow design. They’ve introduced the Centergy Technology, which optimizes balance and stability for shooters. Prime bows are highly customizable, allowing archers to fine-tune their equipment to their exact preferences. If you’re looking for a bow that combines innovation with precision, Prime Archery is a brand worth exploring.

6. Obsession Bows: Precision Meets Passion

Obsession Bows is a brand that embodies the passion of archery enthusiasts. Their bows are meticulously crafted to deliver unmatched precision and consistency. The Obsession Hybrid Cam System offers a perfect blend of speed and accuracy, making them ideal for both target shooters and hunters. If you’re looking for a bow that’s born out of a deep love for archery, Obsession Bows is the choice for you.

7. Bear Archery: Time-Tested Quality

Bear Archery is a name that resonates with archers who appreciate time-tested quality. With a heritage dating back to the early 20th century, Bear Archery has a legacy of producing bows that combine durability, performance, and affordability. Their Bear EAZ Cam System ensures a smooth draw and consistent accuracy, making them a favorite among bowhunters. When you choose a Bear Archery bow, you’re choosing a piece of history that will serve you faithfully.

8. PSE Archery: Affordable Excellence

For those seeking a balance between performance and affordability, PSE Archery is a standout choice. They’ve consistently delivered bows that provide exceptional value without compromising on quality. PSE’s commitment to innovation is evident in their Evolve Cam System, which offers impressive speed and accuracy. If you’re an archer on a budget but refuse to compromise on performance, PSE Archery has the perfect solution.

9. Mission Bows: Unmatched Versatility

For archers who a more affordable option, Mission bows offers a range of versatile and dependable options. Their bows are engineered for accuracy and durability, making them a favorite among hunters. With adjustable draw lengths and exceptional build quality, Mission provide archers with the tools they need to succeed in the field.

10. Diamond Archery: Tradition with a Twist

Diamond Archery is an American archery manufacturer based in Eugene, Oregon. They are known for their high-quality bows that are designed for both beginners and experienced archers. Diamond bows are known for being easy to use and adjust, making them a great choice for people of all ages and skill levels.

Diamond Archery offers a wide range of bows, from youth bows to high-performance target bows. They also offer a variety of accessories, such as arrows, sights, and stabilizers.

The Worst Bow Brands

Cabela’s & Bass Pro Shops Bows

When it comes to bows, I would stay away from any Cabela’s/Bass pro branded option.

Of course, most of the time retailers have their products made by a separate manufacturer. In this case, it’s Bear Archery. While these two (and now one) brands, have rotated manufacturers in the past, everything is currently being made by Bear.

Now, there’s nothing wrong with a Bear bow. It’s just the fact that when you look at customer service, as well as small design changes. They aren’t going to be as good as an actual knowledge-holding manufacturer.

My Final Thoughts On Bow Manufacturers

In conclusion, hunters and target shooters have exceptional options from reputable manufacturers. Each of the brands mentioned here has a unique approach to design, innovation, and performance. Your choice ultimately depends on your specific preferences and requirements as an archer. Whether you prioritize precision, affordability, tradition, or innovation, there’s a perfect bow waiting for you among these top manufacturers. Make an informed decision, and you’ll be well on your way to becoming a more skilled and successful archer.The choice of your compound bow can make or break your performance. That’s why it’s crucial to consider these top manufacturers, each known for their unique strengths and innovations. By choosing a bow from one of these esteemed brands, you’ll not only enhance your archery experience but also position yourself for success on the field or at the range.

For a somewhat related subject, take a look at our blog comparing Bows vs. Crossbows!

You might think that with today’s fishing reels, backlash would be a thing of the past, but that’s just not the case. Unless you are flipping or pitching your bait with your casting reel, you may as well come to the understanding that it is going to backlash on you once in a while, especially if you’re new to using one. Backlash is basically the result of the spool on your casting reel turning faster than line can leave it. The lure flies through the air, but not at the same rate as the line leaves the spool. A baitcaster is meant to give the user more ability to send long-distance casts into heavy cover with a greater amount of control, retrieve ratio, and hook setting power. Unfortunately, it can be a little tricky to avoid backlashes, and even trickier to master.

It’s one of those issues that can cause so many to abandon a baitcasting reel for a more-simple spinning reel, limiting the versatility at their disposal. It’s time to demystify the venerable baitcaster so that you can begin to use one with impunity and avoid the backlashes that take up time and energy when all you want to do is fish. Here are a couple of obvious reasons why this happens and one or two that are less likely, so you can be on the lookout before they occur.

Improper Spool Tension and Brake System Adjustment

The spool tension and brake system on most baitcasting reels have become so sophisticated that the fine tune adjustments can really make a difference. Anglers typically start by cranking down the spool tension knob to the point that when you engage the reel (push down the thumb bar as if you were about to cast), the spool won’t move.

As you adjust it back so that the spool will allow the weight of the lure to slowly pull line off of the reel as you hold the rod upright, you’re loosening the tension but increasing the chance of a backlash. If you go to the other side of the reel and adjust the brake, you’ll also be changing backlash likelihood. Try to make a series of practice casts, short and easy at first, then make small adjustments that will get your reel casting the way that you want. Without working your way through these adjustments, you might have things set so improperly that a backlash is inevitable.

Thumb Control

Once anglers realize they need to slow and control the spool with their thumb that is left on the reel once you have made your cast. If you let your lure or bait hit the water without any frictional force from your thumb, you are likely getting closer to a backlash. Even veteran fishermen sometimes forget how much thumb control matters when using a baitcasting reel, and it’s a skill that needs refreshing when you start fishing each new season.

Line Size

Many of us use a baitcaster so we can increase the line size and change up the line material to fish in some extreme conditions. Placing a jig in the slop where it’s likely to get crushed by a big largemouth is one thing, but the resulting mess of weeds and sticks can be murder on light line. The same goes for fishing around stumps and other tangles that can really fray fishing line. The best part is that casting reels work well with heavier lines and aren’t as prone to backlash when you use them. Granted, you’ll be using heavier baits along with it. Lighter lines can be used on baitcasting reels, but with caution; lighter lines can come screaming off of a baitcaster, especially on long casts which increase your odds of a backlash.

Wind

Anytime that we cast into the wind while fishing we take a chance of getting a backlash (sometimes a bad one) on a casting reel. This is not to say that you mustn’t cast into the wind ever with a baitcaster, just that you are going to have to consider the consequences. This is especially true when using spinnerbaits and buzzbaits that catch the wind due to their wide blades and design profiles. This is where your reaction time and thumb control really comes into to play. You may have to recognize that a particular cast is going to go bad, and you will need to abort it quickly by stopping the spool.

Rod Length

This one is a bit uncommon, but it is said that the length of the casting rod that you’re using can have an effect on its ability to use the casting reel effectively. The most common rods are in the six foot to seven-foot range. Sure, there are casting rods that are plenty longer and still good for long casting, but some are made more for seasoned baitcasting fishermen and some are more for the surf fishing crowd. Shorter rods are easier to handle for the novice and can have the affect of greater control when starting out.

Trial and Error

If you’re just learning to use a baitcaster, then you will want to keep an eye out for these things. Truth be told, it will take some time and experience, and you’ll certainly work your way through plenty of bird’s nests cause by backlash. It’s not unlike a good quarterback who sometimes throws an interception; even seasoned anglers get a backlash now and again. If you’re using a heavy lure and light line, then it’s going to scream off of the reel when you launch that beautiful cast. Even if you have everything set to the best of your ability, you’re going to have to recognize when things are going south and try to nip it in the bud before the worst happens.

There are many good reasons to use a baitcasting system when fishing, so it’s just a matter of practicing and working hard to avoid the dreadful backlash. The better you get, the less it will happen, and the more time you’ll have to spend actually fishing instead of untangling knots.

Please check out my book “The Hunter’s Way” from HarperCollins. Be sure to follow my webpage, or on Facebook and YouTube.

READ MORE: WHY FLY FISHING, CONVENTIONAL FISHING BOTH HAVE SUCH A DEVOTED FOLLOWING

I wasn’t the first hunter who had been there. Even though I was miles from the nearest road, the glint of gray rock shining on the muddy creek bank told me at least one other hunter had walked this valley in the past 13,000 years. It was a stone point, carefully knapped to a razor’s edge when hunting gear meant the difference between life and death.

Searching for and collecting Native American artifacts is a popular hobby among folks who love the outdoors. It’s a great way to spend the off-season and will help to keep you in shape. Keeping your eyes on the ground while you’re hunting will often turn up evidence of past civilizations and people who lived and hunted the same ground thousands of years ago.

Getting Started

If searching for artifacts sounds interesting, artifact collector Les Hatton of Kentucky said some reading will help you become a better collector.

I always tell people to read through a good reference book or two to familiarize themselves with the types of artifacts that might be in their area — who made them and how old they may be,” he said. “One of the best out there is The Official Overstreet Indian Arrowheads Identification and Price Guide.”

Now on its 15th edition, the Overstreet guide is a hands-on reference to arrowhead types, manufacturing, grading, materials and values. The current edition contains 12,000 actual-size photographs covering hundreds of point types, and has information on how to grade, identify and catalog points. The guide covers points found throughout the United States, including Alaska.

(Don’t Miss: 15 Ways to Bag More Late Season Small Game)

Where to Look

Travis Hood is on a constant search for artifacts around his Indiana home.

My favorite places to look are plowed fields, high ground around 200 yards from the outer bends of waterways, and along creeks and streams — both on the bottom and on the shore, especially if there are washed-out steep creek banks, he said. I’ve even had good luck artifact hunting in areas where pigs are pastured because their constant rooting often turns up points.

If I am in a new area, my rule of thumb is to look around and ask myself, ‘Where would I live if I were here thousands of years ago?’ I’d want nearby access to fresh water, but be high enough and far enough away that my camp wouldn’t wash away in a flood or have constant standing water on the ground. The neat part about finding a good spot where a village once stood is that you might find artifacts from a civilization as current as a thousand years ago and some from as old as 10,000 years ago just feet from each other. Man’s basic needs didn’t change that much over 15,000 years, and a good spot to live is a good spot to live.

Hood and Hatton said old fire pits, often still visible as dark rings of charcoal and carbon in otherwise light-colored soil, are excellent places to find points and other artifacts.

The campfire is where they spent their time and where they did most of their point knapping, Hood said.

What to Look For

You know you’re in a good spot if you start finding small flakes of flint scattered around, especially if flint isn’t common in the area.

Once I start noticing flint flakes, called debitage, I start looking for whole or partial points,” Hood said. “While nearly everyone generally calls any knapped projectile an ‘arrowhead,’ most of the stuff you find was probably something else. It could be an ax or celt, a digging hoe, a blade, scraping tool or even a drill. Sure, they made arrowheads, but before bows were commonly used, they made atlatl points and lots of other tools. Some of the earliest stone tools were crude stone blades from the Clovis culture — made by people that lived in the desert Southwest between 11,000 and 13,000 years ago.”

Hatton said aging points gets easier with experience, but referencing guide books will help you figure out who made it and when. You might think the more intricate and detailed the point, the more modern it is, but that isn’t always the case.

It’s interesting, Hood said. Points and tools like those from the Clovis period started out crude and on the large side. Over time, new techniques and experience allowed the tool makers to turn out finer and more intricate points. What’s fascinating to me is that the finest points come from the middle period of stone tool making. Up until around 8,000 to 10,000 years ago, points were crude. Then, from 8,000 up to about 2,000 years ago, they got increasingly finer and more advanced. Then, starting a couple of thousand years ago, they regressed into cruder, less finished points. Maybe they were mass producing these points by then and needed to turn out a more disposable, quickly made point or something.

Besides stone tools and points, you might also find whole or pieces of stone pottery or beads, as well as bone tools, jewelry, clay pipes and other remnants of everyday life. If you are lucky enough to find something like that, keep looking. You are probably near a village or long-term camping spot, and there will likely be more artifacts in the area.

You Found Something, Now What?

So you went out looking and found a point. Now what? Hatton recommended taking a bit of time to record some details, especially if it’s a whole tool or point, or possibly a really valuable artifact.

Snap a quick photo of the artifact on the ground before you pick it up,” he said. “Note where the artifact was found, how deep in the soil and the coordinates or at least a nearby street address. All of this information will be helpful for you to figure out when and by whom the artifact was made, and having as much historical information, known as provenance, with your find as possible might make it more valuable as a collectable.”

Plus, keeping information on find locations will act as a guide for future searches.

Cleaning and Storage

When you locate a point or other artifact, what do you do with it?

The first thing to do is leave it alone, Hatton said. You can use a soft brush or toothbrush to remove loose soil from the point, but don’t get too rough with it, and don’t scrub it clean with soap and water or any other solvents. When experts look at a point under a magnifying glass or microscope, they are looking for certain mineral or soil deposits that help to verify the age. If those deposits are gone, it gets a lot harder to certify that a point is the real thing.

Although avid collectors might have buckets full of partial, unfinished or broken points, Hatton said whole points or anything else that might be valuable need to be stored carefully.

When you toss a stone point into a bucket with other points, they beat against one another to the point that they can chip or break, destroying their value,” he said. “The best way to store them is in a flat display case that you can set on a shelf or hang on a wall, or in flat boxes with layers of paper or cloth between the points to prevent them from touching one another.

Some of these points can be extremely valuable. I’ve personally witnessed one sell for $45,000, and I know of another rare Clovis point right now that is valued at over $100,000. You might find something that is worth a lot of money to the right collector, so treat them gently until you can have them looked at by an expert if you think you have something that might be valuable. That’s another area where the reference books come in handy. By comparing size, shape, flaking style, material and notch methods from your point to the reference books, you can get a pretty good idea how much a point is worth and whether or not you should get it appraised.

Keep it Legal

Before you head out to find your own artifacts, Hood and Hatton recommend familiarizing yourself with state and federal laws that apply to artifact hunting. As a rule, private lands require only the permission of the landowner to collect artifacts. But depending on the state, there might be exceptions, such as burial sites, caves and even certain deep stone overhangs that might have been used as religious sites.

When it comes to federally owned lands, removal of artifacts is generally not allowed. The Archeological Resources Protection Act of 1979, which protects any item of archeological interest that is more than 100 years old, and Title 36 of the U.S. Code of Federal Regulations, which deals with theft or destruction of public property, state that anyone found digging or removing artifacts from publicly owned lands can face fines, jail time or both.

On your next hunt, glance down at the ground from time to time. Chances are good that the same wildlife trail you’re watching has been used for thousands of years. Perhaps another hunter sat in a nearby location, doing the same thing. Maybe he or she left behind a sign that they were there.

Not sure what suppressor sights to get for your Glock?

Look no further.

I’ve tested ALL the best Glock suppressor sights, arranged them into categories, and even included accessories and installation techniques.

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect suppressor sight for your Glock.

Let’s get started!

What are Suppressor Sights?

There are two key factors to shooting accurately when using a handgun with iron sights: correct sight alignment and a clear sight picture.

Many shooters own Glock pistols fitted with suppressors or have the best reflex sights installed on their handguns. Unfortunately, your line of sight will be obstructed when using factory sights.

How?

Due to the circumference of most suppressors— being larger than the barrel of the handgun— it can block the sight picture ahead of the front sight.

Also, if you have a red dot installed on the slide, the RDS housing sits in between the front and rear sights. This can obscure your target.

If your pistol is configured this way, you’ll most likely need to install suppressor sights.

These are aftermarket sights that are specially engineered to sit higher than the suppressor, making your line of sight unobstructed again.

The Best Glock Suppressor Sights

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best Glock suppressor sights:

1. Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sights Set: Best Glock 19 Suppressor Sights
2. Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sights Suppressor Set: Best Night Sights for Glock
3. AMERIGLO GL-506 Tall Black Serrated Suppressor: Best for the Budget
4. AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress: Best for Glock 17

1. Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sight Set: Best Glock 19 Suppressor Sights

The Trijicon Glock Night Set is the best suppressor height sight for the Glock 19.

Trijicon specifically engineered this sight to be used with a suppressor or as backup iron sights.

In fact:

They advertise it to improve shooting accuracy by as much as five times compared to just conventional sights.

My question: Is this true?

Let’s find out!

Brightness

The Trijicon Glock suppressor sights have an exceptionally visible sight picture.

Each lamp is capped with a sapphire jewel intended to evenly distribute the light. I can confirm it performs well in no-light and low-light situations.

The white outline helps with the visibility— day or night. The different colored Tritium lamps give great contrast for quick target acquisition.

I do understand the orange trits have a shorter lifespan, but given the affordable price tag, I don’t mind it at all given the sight picture.

Durability

The Trijicon Suppressor Night Sights have a sleek yet durable finish.

These sights’ tritium lamps are contained inside aluminum cylinders for maximum protection.

It also comes with extra silicone rubber cushioning for heavy recoil. You won’t need to worry about harsh cleaning solvents either.

One con I’d like to point out:

The edges of the rear and front sights are VERY sharp. It becomes uncomfortable after a while unless I’m wearing an undershirt.

Mounting & Installation

The Trijicon Suppressor Night Sight Set is incredibly easy to install.

I used a front sight hex tool

and a universal sight pusher tool from Amazon.

Before installing the front sight, I dropped a little Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker to secure the screw into the front sight base. It wiggles slightly but doesn’t affect the accuracy of the gun at all.

On the plus side, it co-witnesses perfectly with my suppressor and Trijicon RMR.

Is the Trijicon Night Sight Set worth it?

If you’re looking for excellent sights that are easy to install on your Glock 19, get the Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sight Set.

Why? It guarantees:

• Quick installation
• Durable construction
• Self-illuminated Bright Tritium
• Excellent low light performance

Plus, Trijicon offers a warranty on all sights to be free of defects in material and workmanship for the lifetime of the original owner. If you find any issues, they’ll replace them free of charge.

Overall, the Trijicon Suppressor Night Sight Set works flawlessly.

In case you didn’t know, Trijicon is on the top of my list for the best mp shield night sights as well. I mean— It’s Trijicon, after all.

2. Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Suppressor Set: Best Night Sights for Glock

The Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Suppressor Set is the best night sight for the Glock.

As a matter of fact:

Almost all of my handguns have Trijicon night sights installed on them.

BUT, I’m not biased. I put these sights through torture and hand-testing

Here’s how it went…

Brightness

The Trijicon Bright & Tough Set is remarkably visible— both day and night.

It’s not too bright where your eye is distracted but bright enough to quickly acquire your target and get a perfect sight picture.

I keep it on my nightstand and I can easily tell how my handgun’s positioned thanks to the trillium.

I prefer the white outline on the front and rear sights. Some shooters choose orange on the front, but all white works just as well, especially if you have old eyes.

On that note:

If you co-witness with red dots and struggle shooting accurately, I recommend checking out holographic weapon sights (like the EOTECH EXPS2 or 3).

Durability

The Trijicon Bright and Tough sights live up to their name— insanely tough.

These night sights are constructed with a metal body and silicone rubber cushions for high-grade durability.

The Bright & Tough sights’ aluminum cylinders protect the tritium lamps from heavy recoil. I’ve also done multiple drop tests and found no issues.

These sights were produced almost two decades ago and they still perform just as well as the day I purchased them.

Mounting & Installation

Installing the Trijicon Suppressor Night Sight Set is a breeze.

I currently have them mounted on my gen 5 Glock 19 MOS. The front sight takes a little bit of effort to get perfectly aligned and torqued but it worked great in the end.

Plus, they co-witness like a dream with my suppressor and Vortex Sparc red dot combo.

Additionally:

I bought a Safariland Hi-Ride Belt Loop Holster which has a built-in ridge to accommodate the suppressor height front sight.

Overall, I’m very happy with the entire configuration together.

Is the Trijicon Glock Suppressor Night Sight Set worth it?

Absolutely! The Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Set is an excellent choice when you’re running a suppressor on your Glock.

Why? It features:

• Unmatched durability
• Enhanced sight acquisition
• Long-lasting and bright Tritium night sights
• Compatibility with many Glock models

To top it all off:

The yellow tritium lamp has a warranty for 12 years and the orange lamp for 5 years from the date of original manufacture.

The Trijicon Bright & Tough Night Sight Set may be more expensive but definitely a top choice by many Glock owners.

Speaking of top choices, check out my latest review on the best quick detach scope mounts!

3. AMERIGLO GL-506 Tall Black Serrated Suppressor: Best for the Budget

The AMERIGLO GL-506 Suppressor Set is the best sight for your money.

Before I made my purchase, I did some research and discovered rave reviews on these $45 sights.

I had to try it out myself! Needless to say, I’m impressed.

Here’s why…

Brightness

The AMERIGLO GL-506 performs well in high contrast/light conditions.

Why?

These aren’t night sights. They’re black suppressor height sights with no markings. They still work in lowlight conditions, but not like your tritium night sights.

The front sight post is serrated to reduce glare from sunlight. Also, the rear sight design allows easy, one-handed slide manipulation.

These iron sights are amazing for suppressor use, but here’s why I really like them:

The blacked-out front sight is exceptional for red dot use especially when combined with night vision. It reduces the clutter of your sight picture for simple front sight acquisition.

Many shooters find tritium night sights too distracting, especially in the dark. If you’re one of them, this will work wonders for you.

If not, you can also get the Green Tritium and Orange Outline Front with the Black Rear version.

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Durability

The AMERIGLO GL-506 sights can stand up to harsh conditions.

Made from machined steel, these sights are durable and reliable— regardless of what type of environment you’re shooting in.

Mounting & Installation

Installation is easy and took me about 10 minutes tops.

Make sure you drop a bit of Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker for security. Trust me, you don’t want your front sight coming off with recoil.

I installed the rear sight using the StarONE Universal Handguns Sight Pusher Tool with a plastic barrier and no markings occurred.

This sight set fits all Glock models (except 42/43). It sits at the right height and worked phenomenally with my 9mm suppressor.

It can also co-witness with red-dot sights like the Holosun 510c, the Vortex Strikefire II, or the Vortex Sparc.

Trust me: I tried them all.

Is the AMERIGLO GL-506 Tall Black Serrated Suppressor worth it?

Frankly, the AMERIGLO GL-506 sights are the best bang for your buck when you’re running a suppressor on your Glock.

Why? It comes with:

• Durable design
• Affordable price tag
• Low-light level capability
• Co-witnesses with many optics

The sights are backed up by AMERIGLO’s warranty. So long as you keep the receipt, you can easily request a replacement or repair. Also, their customer service is always A+.

Overall, the AMERIGLO GL-506 Serrated Suppressor is an excellent addition to any Glock MOS with a suppressor or any other red-dot-ready pistol.

Speaking of great additions: don’t forget to check out my latest Vortex Spitfire 3x review!

4. AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress: Best for Glock 17

The AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress is one of the best Glock suppressor sights I’ve used on the Glock 17.

In fact:

These sights worked so well, I shot 200 rounds easily on the day I tested it out on the range.

Let’s take a closer look…

Brightness

With the AMERIGLO GL-329, I have no problems shooting in low and no-light conditions.

The three-dot sight comes with white rings for daytime use & green tritium for low light detection and sight alignment. The large, bold dots make it easy to spot and grab the pistol at night.

The front sight is about .314” high and the rear sight sits at about .310”.

I haven’t had any issues personally but always check to make sure this provides enough clearance for your suppressor.

Durability

The AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppress is built to last.

The sights are machined from bar stock steel and assembled with Swiss-made tritium. This combination results in ultra-durability and recoil resistance.

If you plan on using your Glock 17 for home defense and personal protection, the AMERIGLO GL-329 won’t fail you.

Mounting & Installation

Both front and rear sights took 15 minutes to install.

The package includes both the front sight and a standard, dovetail rear sight.

I marked the center of the stock sights on the slide with a pencil, then used a brass punch and hammer to drive out the old. I installed the new sights and aligned them with the previous mark I made.

Word of advice:

The front sight post does have some wiggle room, so double-check that you’ve got it straight before torquing to spec with the Loctite. Once they’re in, they’ll be secured without issues.

Also:

The top of the front sight is only visible at the very bottom of a Vortex Venom or Viper. If you intend to co-witness with the Vortex red dots, you may need to find taller suppressor heights.

Is the AMERIGLO GL-329 Tall Suppressor worth it?

If you’re looking for a reliable and reasonably priced suppressor for your Glock 17, the AMERIGLO GL-329 is for you.

Why? It comes with:

• Low price tag
• Fits almost all Glocks
• Popular 3-dot configuration
• Excellent low-light performance

Additionally, the green tritium lamps are under warranty for 12 years after the date of manufacture and are guaranteed to last just as long.

If they do break, you can easily send them back with the company return form and AMERIGLO will replace or repair it. No questions asked.

With a combination of dependability and affordability, you really can’t go wrong with the AMERIGLO GL-329.

If you’re interested in more awesome handgun sights, check out my latest review of the best Walther PPQ M2 sights.

How to Install Glock Suppressor Sights?

One of the most common upgrades for Glock pistols is replacement sights.

If you install a suppressor or a red dot sight, you’ll most likely need a suppressor sight to shoot accurately— even if you’re using the best sights for the Glock 34.

So, here’s how to install the best Glock suppressor sights:

For the instructions below, I’ll be using the following tools:

• Front Sight Tool

• Rear Sight Pusher Tool

• Loctite Heavy Duty Threadlocker

• Gunsmith Punch Set

• Nylon Vice Jaws

Step 1: Disassemble

Safely disassemble your Glock pistols. Make sure your weapon is unloaded, remove the magazine, etc. Then remove the recoil spring and barrel so you only have your slide left.

Step 2: Remove Front Sight

Get your screwdriver and remove the bolt for the front sight.

Make sure you save your old sights. If something happens and you need to return or replace your new sights, you need the original set to put back on your pistol so it can still be serviceable.

I like to screw in the old bolt back into the sight. That way, I don’t mix up the screws.

What I mean is— most of the time, the screw that goes into the Trijicon sight won’t fit into the original Glock front sight.

Step 3: Remove Rear Sight

For removing the rear sight, you have two options: using a rear sight pusher tool or you could also use a hammer and non-marring punch.

I highly recommend using the rear sight pusher tool. With this, you can simply clamp the slide and rotate the “pusher” to gently slide the old sight off.

Step 4: Install New Sights

FRONT SIGHT

Place the new front sight on top of the pistol. Apply a drop of the Loctite onto the new screw. Make sure you hold the sight while tightening the nut.

If you tighten too much, you can damage the sight. Before fully tightening, ensure that the sight is straight so you can make adjustments as needed.

On a side note:

I just made an in-depth guide on the best way to do an AR-15 A2 front sight removal. I highly recommend checking it out!

Moving along…

REAR SIGHT

As with removing the rear sight, I recommend using the pusher tool to install your new sights.

Start by aligning the new sight on the slider, then clamp both the slider and sight down. You can then turn the screw on the “pusher” and move the sight into place.

If you don’t have a sight pusher:

Place the slide into the vice jaw. Stage the new rear sight into the dovetail on the left side of the slide. Once you’re able to get about half of the sight base into the dovetail, start to tap the sight in place with a hammer and non-marring punch.

Be sure you use moderate hammer strikes so as not to hit your slide or your fingers. Lastly, make sure the rear sight is aligned with the rear dovetail. You can typically eyeball it or use calipers.

By the way, if you don’t have a rear sight pusher, here’s a great video guide on how to remove and install your suppressor sights.

Properly installing your suppressor sights is key to accuracy, but having an excellent suppressor sight, to begin with, can reduce a lot of work and frustration.

There are many options on the market and scouting the internet for dependable ones can take a lot of your time. The good news?

I already researched, hand-tested, and listed the best Glock suppressor sights for your every need above 🙂

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best Glock suppressor sights guide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which suppressor sight will you pick for your Glock models? Or perhaps you already have one and would like to share your thoughts.

Either way, let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

FAQ:

Native Region and Habitat Growing Needs for Sycamores

The American Sycamore is prevalent throughout the United States and is native in 32 states. The tree can grow in many kinds of soil but is best grown in rich, moist, and well-drained soil. They’re best planted in spring or fall. Sycamore tree maintenance is relatively easy.

Sycamore trees are highly susceptible to drought and are prone to insect and pest infestation when not watered regularly.

How To Identify a Sycamore Tree

Most sycamore trees are easy to identify, regardless of the season, if you know where to look.

Sycamore Tree Leaf Identification

Sycamore leaves are sometimes similar to those of some maple trees but have more shallow lobes and are arranged alternately. They’re sharply toothed and mostly kidney-shaped in outline.

They vary from 5 to 8 inches in size. They emerge from the bud plicate and are pale green.

When mature, they’re bright yellow-green above and paler on the bottom. Like other deciduous trees, come fall, they turn brown and wither before falling off the tree.

Sycamore Tree Bark

An American sycamore tree is easily identifiable by its mottled bark that flakes off in large portions and leaves the tree surface greenish-white and brown. The bark of all tree varieties gives way to the expanding trunk by splitting, but the sycamore exhibits the change more visually than most other trees.

The reason is because of the bark’s rigidness which isn’t as elastic as the bark of other tree varieties. It can’t stretch to accommodate the growth of the trunk it covers and thus peels off in uneven slabs.

Sycamore Tree Flowers

The sycamore tree flowers are small and exist in densely round clusters that grow from stalks that grow with the leaves in April and May. The flowers are monoecious (both male and female)and, because of their small size, can pollinate with the wind. The male flowers are red. They wither and fall off the tree after the pollen is dispersed.

Related Reading: Willow Tree Guide, Oak Tree Guide, Dogwood Tree Guide, and Cherry Blossom Tree Growing Tips

The female flowers are yellow and morph into fuzzy fruits.

Sycamore Tree Fruit (Sycamore Tree Seeds/Sycamore Tree Balls)

The sycamore tree fruit matures in small, brown balls that dangle from the branch. The ball, which isn’t a single fruit, is instead a collection of many tiny seed-like fruits called achenes, which have dense hair-like structures attached. The balls are light as a feather and can float on water, which is useful in dispersal. Their lightness also lets them ride the wind.

Birds and mammals can sometimes also help in the scattering of seeds when they eat and transport the fruit.1

How to Grow Sycamore Tree: Care Tips

Western Sycamores are a resilient bunch and quite easy to grow, except they need tons of water. They should be planted by a stream or pond, for if not, they will need lots of supplementary water about once a week.

The roots will grow downwards in search of groundwater near patios or urban environments. They tolerate a wide variety of soils and grow best in full sun. They’ll quickly grow to 30 feet in five years provided they’re watered plenty.

Planting

Dig a hole twice the size of the root ball. Place the sapling in the middle of the hole. Make sure the top of the root ball is a bit higher than the soil line. Fill the hole with water before placing the soil around the root ball.

Related Reading: How to care for Magnolia Tree types

Allow the water to soak in, then add the soil and water extensively. Place three inches of mulch around the sapling. That will reduce the tree’s water needs. Ensure the soil is moist with regular watering for the first three months.

This will make sure the roots are solid and grow deeply.

Care

The sycamore is very adaptable and grows best in full sun. Feed this tree with a slow-release fertilizer5 in early spring. If it needs pruning, do so when it’s dormant in winter or early spring. This hardy tree adapts to pollution, and drought, and is salt tolerant.

Sycamore Tree Pests And Diseases

Although the tree is very hardy, there are some pests and diseases to be aware of.

Sycamore Lace Bug

The sycamore lace bug is named for the pattern seen on the adult bug’s wings and head. The bug is only an eighth of an inch long and white with brown spots.

Adult bugs last through the winter beneath the peeling bark of the sycamore tree. They get busy in the spring when the leaves start to grow. The female lays her eggs on the leaf undersurface. The eggs attach to the leaves with brown sticky sap. The nymphs hatch a few days later.

They are wingless, darker than adult bugs, and covered with spines. Both adults and nymphs nourish on the leaves. Their piercing/sucking mouthparts are used to remove sap from the leaves.

The leaf turns yellow around the feeding areas. By late summer, the surface of the leaf is covered with dark spots of waste material and the shed skins of lace bugs. The trees aren’t seriously damaged but growth can be reduced under heavy infestations.

Plane Anthracnose Disease

The American sycamore is prone to plane anthracnose6 disease, a fungus found naturally on the Oriental plane,7 and which has developed resistance to the disease. Although rarely killed or seriously harmed, the sycamore is partially defoliated8 by the disease and dethroned of the natural good looks specimen it is.

At times confused with frost damage, the disease attacks in early spring. The new leaves wilt while the older ones turn brown at their base. Infected leaves shrivel and fall, and come summer, the tree regrows its foliage.

Cankers develop on the twigs and branches near the sick leaves and spread the disease by producing spores that weaken the tree. The cankers restrict the flow of nutrients causing the afflicted twigs and branches to expire.2

Folklore, Significance, And Medicinal Qualities of Sycamore Tree

Sycamore trees have an illustrious history in folklore that goes back to ancient Egyptian when the Holy Sycamore was said to be a conduit connecting and bridging the abyss that separates the dead and the living.

This massive tree looms over the eastern gate of heaven and from where the sun emerges to rise each new morning.

Perhaps it’s their bizarre-colored trunks that are mottled with stark patches of white and gray when the bark peels off that give them the mysterious allure.

Ancient Greeks and Persians considered the sycamores as the most handsome trees and planted them everywhere. In Sparta, the sycamore was attributed to the goddess Helen and was decorated with lotus flowers. It’s also dedicated to extra-handsome men like Apollo, Dionysus, and Hercules, who all sat beneath the canopy of the ancient sycamore while the Greek philosopher Socrates expounded philosophically with his disciples.

In the Seventeenth century, Georgian Tsar Irakli II, sat under the sycamore when he made the fateful decision to plead with the Russian Empire for protection and patronage.

One Bible prophet, Amos, was a farmer who cared for sycamore trees before delivering messages to the northern kingdom.3 In the Book of Luke, Jesus was recorded going to the home of Zacchaeus, a tax collector, who climbed into the sycamore fig tree so he could watch as Jesus passed by his house. When Jesus saw him, he called out and ended up eating with him under the sycamore tree.

Medicinal Qualities

Sycamore trees have long been used for homeopathic remedies, especially the inner bark, which acts as a disinfectant.

It has been used for everything from coughs to rashes and arthritis pain.4

History and Use of Sycamore Tree Wood

The wood from the Sycamore tree is good for many applications. Its many purposes include barber poles, wine barrels, butcher blocks, cabinets, shelves, cartwheels, flooring, a variety of furniture, interior paneling and trim, and violin backs.

Native Americans and French traders constructed canoes from sycamore lumber. Most dugouts were about 30 feet long but some were longer than 60 feet.

Because sycamore wood rots quickly when in contact with the ground, it wasn’t used for fence posts or railroad ties. The European settlers used hollowed trunks to shelter from rain or snow. Some early European settlers even acquired them as shelters until their log cabins were constructed.

They then converted the hollowed trunks into barns, silos, and stables. Smaller hollowed trunks were cut and used as troughs and tubs. Even the sycamore fruit had its use. After the ball harboring the fruit had split apart and the nutlets floated off, the core of the fruit ball, as well as the stalk and a twig, were constructed into buttons.

The button makers needed to make sure the tufted hairs of the nutlets had all dispersed because they would irritate the skin and respiratory tracts of potential clients.5

The sycamore is as sturdy and resilient as they come. It grows in cold climates, relishes the snow, loves the sun, and needs little to survive for centuries, making it excellent carbon offset trees when planted in it’s native habitat and protected by carbon offset companies working to eliminate carbon footprint from emissions. It flourishes in its native habitats and has served society in gracious and numerous ways.

So, the good news is that the Sycamore tree isn’t going anywhere in the foreseeable future and isn’t on any endangered lists.

I’ve long dreamed of hunting in the mountains, spending days climbing, glassing, and stalking. This kind of trip has always seemed quite accessible to me, except for one aspect: getting the meat out of the woods. It would be impractical to expect to drag a deer back to the truck. Foolish, really, and out of the question with an elk. So that would mean quartering and packing the animal out. This is nothing to the hunter on horseback, or even one who is accustomed to doing it.

But here in Minnesota, it is rarely done. Dragging is the norm, and ATVs are often employed. It is unusual to ever be just too far from the road. With a western hunt or two nearing on the horizon, I have felt I needed practice- a trial run. Sure, I could study the process and know what to do, but I wouldn’t want to figure it out in the dark, on the side of a mountain, with a snowstorm coming. That would be truly foolish.

My Chance

So for the last couple seasons, I’ve been looking for an opportunity to try my hand at quartering a deer and packing it out by backpack. While I spend the opening weekend of deer season hunting with family on private land, I always try to plan other hunts to satisfy the need for meat and my need for adventure. This year’s hunt in the Mississippi riverbottoms of Houston County held much promise for taking a deer far from the road.

While I found myself over three and a half miles from the road at my farthest point, I ended up taking a nice buck about a mile and a quarter out. He was far too heavy to drag on the ground, so there was no choice but to follow through with my plan. Armed with a knife and a game bag from Koola Buck, I set myself to the task.

Halfway There

Now, when this is normally done, a person takes the quarters, loins, tenderloins, and other assorted meat from the skeleton, and leaves behind the spine and hide and as much extraneous mass as possible. The unique problem I faced on my hunt was that part about leaving the spine behind. I was hunting in the CWD Management Zone, where leaving the spine and brain material in the zone was mandatory. Dumpsters were provided so that hunters could leave that CWD-containing waste behind, to protect the rest of the state from contamination.

At home, I researched as much as I could to determine the overall legality of doing a conventional quartering job (leaving spine, hide, etc. in the field). I didn’t come up with much. A Conservation Officer might have been a good resource, but they are very busy that time of year. I hate to pester them needlessly. I figured that since the DNR didn’t want the spines contaminating the rest of the state, they wouldn’t want spines left behind in the field to potentially contaminate the environment. It seemed I might incur adverse legal attention if I didn’t take it with me. It also seemed a ridiculous notion to separate the spine/ribcage from the meat and then carry it out anyway. So I planned to remove and pack the rear quarters, and drag the remainder of the deer. I hate to do only half a job, but my choice was more or less made for me.

I still made two trips out- one with backpack, and one more to do the dragging. The game bag I used was more than roomy enough for those rear quarters, as large as they were. The straps on the outside of the Koola Buck quarter bag (not a standard feature on meat bags) made it easy to secure to my pack. Taking that much weight from the carcass made that buck more draggable, but only barely. The dragging portion took longer than I expected, and with many stops along the way. Though my backpack had been heavy, this impressed on me how much more efficient it would have been to pack the entire animal out– even in two trips. Facing even a moderate dragging job in the future, I might elect to quarter and pack.

Conclusions

Since I wound up doing the rest of the quartering job within the next couple hours (to fulfill the CWD zone requirements), I did the whole job yet that day. What I didn’t do was the actual carrying out of the front quarters, loins, etc. Frankly, that’s not a big gap in my overall experience- it doesn’t take much to imagine dropping them into a bag. I feel now I could not only do the job again, but I could do it faster and better. That’s a load off my mind.

The next step will be to get better at using my pack, so the load can ride optimally. This was the first time I had such a heavy load in it. Again, it’s not something you want to discover in the field.

The method for splitting an animal up into quarters may seem complicated, but it’s not. If you’ve ever processed your own deer, it was probably hanging in the air as you dismantled it. Quartering in the field is essentially the same, only on the ground. If you have no previous experience with any of it, just learn about the different cuts and how to separate them from the rest of the carcass. There are many online tutorials available.

Materials for this task are encouragingly minimal. A worthy backpack is required, so choose your pack for the day carefully. A good, sharp knife is necessary to get through all the skinning, separating of joints, etc. Meat bags round out the list, and the one from Koola Buck I used was great. It is rated for elk-sized needs, and just one could accommodate an entire whitetail (not that mine was light enough). Splitting the load into at least two meat bags is customary, so be sure to obtain an appropriate number of bags for your task.

Koola Buck bags like mine come in blood red, to hide the inevitable staining. After washing at home, mine was just like new again. It also proved to be tough as nails and I expect to be able to use it for years to come. After my experience with Koola Buck, I will be looking to obtain smaller sizes for deer and antelope hunts. I highly recommend these game bags to big game hunters everywhere.

Koola Buck also makes heavy-duty and antimicrobial meat bags. You can find them all at koolabuck.com.

If you’ve ever wanted to try a lion’s mane mushroom you’d be hard-pressed to find one at the local supermarket. Yet, these unusual mushrooms are tasty and healthy, and there are numerous health benefits from consuming them.

If you’d like to learn how to grow these mushrooms yourself, then keep on reading. We’re covering their characteristics, health benefits, storage, and step-by-step instructions for cultivating lion’s mane mushrooms indoors and on logs.

What is a Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

The lion’s mane mushroom (also known as Hericium Erinaceus) is a white, pom-pom-like fungus that resembles the mane of a lion.

Individual mushrooms can grow to be fairly big, weighing as much as half a kilogramme. The spines, or “teeth,” begin short but become longer with age. The mushroom is spongy and semi-hollow at times.

These unusual-looking mushrooms are found on rotting hardwood trees and logs throughout the northern hemisphere and are native to Asia, Europe, and North America.

Lion’s mane mushrooms are edible as well as medicinal, with a variety of potential health benefits. These potential benefits include protection against dementia, protection against stomach ulcers, reduced risk of heart disease, diabetes symptom management, and many more.

It’s pretty much impossible to buy fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in the UK due to the fact that it’s a relatively unknown species. Your best bet is to find a specialist farmer, or, the easier option, is to grow this species of mushroom yourself.

Is Lion’s Mane Mushroom Easy to Grow?

Lion’s mane is a reasonably simple mushroom to cultivate, but it can be a challenge for novices because the mycelium takes longer to develop than other mushrooms, creating an increased risk of contamination. It can also be challenging for first time growers to determine whether the lion’s mane is fully colonised and ready to produce fruit.

If you’re new to mushroom growing, we suggest you should get some hands-on experience first. The easiest way to practise mushroom cultivation is by growing your own! Oyster mushrooms are a great place to start. Alternatively, you can use a Lion’s Mane Mushroom Growing Kit if you’re keen to try lion’s mane at home without the hassle of growing your own from scratch!

Growing in bags vs on logs

The two most popular methods of growing lion’s mane mushrooms are in bags or on logs. They both have their positives and negatives, but the answer to the best way to grow lion’s mane mushrooms is dependent on your experience and the harvest time you are hoping for.

If you’re growing lion’s mane on logs, you should expect to harvest your first batch in one to two years following inoculation. You can harvest lion’s mane mushrooms from a single log for up to six years after they begin to grow. It’s important to note growing mushrooms on logs generally requires more effort and resources to set up, but are relatively easy to maintain during incubation.

It takes far less time to grow lion’s mane indoors in a bag or container. The lion’s mane mushroom can be harvested in about 6 to 8 weeks after inoculating your substrate. Growing in bags is debatably the easier option if you are just starting out, but if you already have some growing experience under your belt then consider when you want your mushrooms to be harvestable.

It’s worth noting that bags can be used to grow mushrooms indoors, whereas logs have to be grown outdoors.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms Indoors

Below we’ve put together a step-by-step tutorial to help you grow lion’s mane mushrooms in a bag or container.

Buy Now Lion’s Mane Mushroom Grain Spawn From £15.99

Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

It’s essential that you keep your work environment clean and sterile during the inoculation procedure. When you have spent time preparing your mushrooms, the last thing you want to do is introduce competitive bacteria into your substrate that could outcompete your spawn. Before you start, wipe everything down with isopropyl alcohol or another cleaning solution.

After you have cleaned your workplace, you need to assemble all the equipment and supplies needed.

There are several ways you can choose to grow Lion’s Mane mushrooms but growers typically opt to begin the process of substrate preparation, inoculation and incubation within a mushroom growing bag. This makes life a lot easier when handling aspects like sterilisation and pasteurisation too.

From there, it is really a preference in growing technique. Some growers prefer to keep their Lion’s Mane growing from the bag, some prefer to use jars, others choose fruiting chambers. The key considerations are ensuring that the substrate has successfully been inoculated and colonised and that the eventual growing environment has sufficient humidity.

Some supplies we recommend

• A Pressure cooker
• Kitchen Scales
• Measuring cups
• Lion’s mane grain spawn

• Mushroom growing bags or buckets
• Hardwood pellets
• Soy Hulls

Step 2. Preparing Your Mushroom Substrate

Preparing your mushroom substrate correctly is a critical step in the cultivation of any mushroom. It is where most new growers experience problems, as this is where bacteria or competing organisms are first introduced. This is especially true in the case of Lion’s mane mushrooms as the fungus takes much longer to develop than other commonly cultivated mushrooms. As a result, there is a often a much greater window of time for contamination to occur.

There are several types of substrate you could opt for when growing Lion’s Mane mushrooms. In this guide, we’ll be focusing on hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP) but you can learn about more types of substrates here.

A good substrate should provide the sustenance your fungi need to thrive and produce delicious mushrooms. It provides all of the nutrients, nitrates and hydration, so it is key you start on the right foot. Supplemented substrates are usually preferred by experienced growers when working with Lion’s Mane.

Whilst some prefer to use bran or oat supplements, one of our favourite and most recommended substrates for growing Lion’s Mane is Master’s Mix.

What is Master’s Mix?

Master’s Mix is a blend between hardwood pellets and soy hulls, which is ideal for Lion’s Mane as it naturally occurs on hardwood trees and the added soy provides an excellent source for the nitrogen and protein for the fungi.

It also provides a structure that is well suited for mycelium growth, allowing for fast colonisation and greater yield sizes.

Whilst sterilization isn’t strictly necessary for hardwood pellets, it is best practice that you do so to maximise your chances of success. Plus, if you do opt for a mixed blend like Master’s mix, you will most certainly need to sterilize your substrate mix.

We have a detailed guide to Master’s Mix in the works, but following the steps below will give you everything you need to know to get started.

Making your Master’s Mix Blend

To produce a simple master’s mix, prepare even amounts of hardwood fuel pellets and soy hulls. The recommended hydration level for a Masters’ Mix is 60% but if you’re using hardwood pellets, you will need to allow for additional water to redhyrate the pellets sufficiently.

Below are the supplies and weights need to produce a 2.3kg substrate:

• 450g hardwood pellets
• 450g soy hulls
• 1.4L clean water
• A growing container (we recommend using a mushroom growing bag)
• A pair of weight scales
• A pressure cooker (Optional)
• Latex gloves (Optional)

The first thing you will need to do is to mix your hardwood pellets and soy hulls together in a sterilised container or bag. Next, you will need to add the clean water to the mix. Allow this to sit for 5-10 minutes (or as long as required) to rehydrate the pellets into a sawdust-like mix. If you’re using a mushroom growing bag, it is easiest to hydrate your pellets and mix the supplies directly in the bag.

Sterlising your Substrate Mix

The next step is to sterilise your substrate mixture. There are several ways to sterilise and pastuerise a substrate, but it is recommend that you use a pressure cooker to do so.

If your mix has now hydrated, simply fold and seal the growing bag and place it into your pressure cooker. It is recommended to leave the mix in the cooker for at least two hours at a pressure of 15PSI.

Once your substrate mix has been in the cooker for 2 or more hours, you will need to carefully remove the growing bag and allow it to completely cool in a sanitary environment.

When the substrate has fully cooled, it is time to begin the inoculation process.

Step 3. Inoculating Your Mushroom Substrate

Before starting the inoculation process, use soap and water to thoroughly clean your hands before handling any of your growing materials. You should also ensure that the working environment has been sanitised prior to unsealing the growing bag.

We also recommend continuing this next step in a controlled decontaminated space, such as a flow hood or a DIY container (such as a sterilised clear box with embedded gloves).

For a 2.3kg substrate, we would recommend using 200 grams of grain spawn mix. We stock grain spawn in sizes from 600g to 3kg, so you will have plenty to work with.

If using grain spawn, carefully break apart the spawn and mix throughout the substrate mix, ensuring even coverage and layering.

Once your lion’s mane spawn has been mixed into the substrate, seal your growing bag or cover your container.

A better way to do this is to open the bag following pressure cooking, rapidly add the spawn, seal it immediately, and then mix the material within the sealed bag. This is ideally done in front of a flow hood and reduces exposure time.

Step 4. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Now that you’ve prepared and inoculated your substrate, it’s time to let the fungi do its thing.

Place your growing bag in a dark space away from direct sunlight and store at room temperature (18-25°C), although consistently at 23°C is ideal.

How long does it take for Lion’s Mane mushrooms to colonise?

It can take between 14-21 days for your Lion’s Mane to colonise the substrate mix but this could take longer depending on a number of factors, such as the amount of spawn used, the substrate hydration level, and external storage conditions and the quality of the spawn.

How to tell if Lion’s Mane is fully colonised

When compared with other commonly cultivated mushrooms, Lion’s Mane mushroom mycelium threads (known as hyphae) are somewhat finer in appearance and can make it harder to determine whether it has fully colonised the substrate.

Ideally, you will see the substrate mix even coated in a white mycelium, but other ways of testing include feeling the mix to test whether it has become firmer to the touch.

Step 5. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

While your Lion’s Mane is perfectly capable of fruiting their mushrooms when ready, it can be helpful to provide a helping hand by creating conditions that encourage a flush to appear.

For Lion’s Mane, this can be achieved by increasing the humidity of the growing environment. Whilst keeping the growing bag in a shady area, try misting the substrate several times a day with water.

You can also place your growing bag into a plastic liner and spray the inside lining to create a contained humid environment. Pro tip: if you’re not able to mist your substrate every day, place wet tissue paper or cloth inside of the outer lining to maintain humidity.

We suggest cutting a small (5 cm) hole on the side of your bag rather than the top. If you cut the top of the bag or open the entire top, the substrate dries out faster and you get a lot of smaller mushrooms instead of a few large groupings.

Only one hole in your bag is required for every 750 grams of substrate. For most bags, one hole is sufficient. However, if you have a really large bag, you may want to cut more holes.

If your bag has any extra room at the top, we recommend folding it down and taping it in place. Mushrooms may attempt to grow from the top if this is not done.

How to Grow Lion’s Mane Mushrooms on Logs

Growing lion’s mane on logs is a low-cost approach to ensure a consistent, long-term supply of fresh lion’s mane.

Everything you need to know about growing lion’s mane on logs is included in the step-by-step guide below. For a more in-depth guide on growing on logs, check out our full article on the topic.

What you’ll need:

• Lion’s mane mushroom plug spawn
• Comprising dowels, wax and wax applicator
• Hardwood logs, which are 2-6 weeks old
• Hammer
• Drill with 8mm bit (depending on the size of dowels)
• Gas cooker (if not near to a domestic stove)
• Pan for heating the wax

Buy Now Lion’s Mane Mushroom Plug Spawn From £7.98

Step 1. Preparing Your Supplies & Growing Space

As mentioned above, it’s essential to keep your growing space clean to avoid contamination of your spawn.

When growing lion’s mane mushrooms, always use hardwood logs, we suggest beech or oak logs.

It’s vital to choose healthy trees while selecting logs and to never use logs older than 6 weeks. Any tree with rotting wood or symptoms of infection faces an increased risk of competition with pre-existing fungus in the logs.

Start by drilling a row of 15 cm holes down the length of your log. This is deep enough that when you hammer your plug into the wood, it will leave a little space underneath it, giving an ideal environment for the mycelium to thrive.

After you’ve finished the first row of holes, place the following row of holes in a staggered pattern. Begin the next row of holes 6 cm apart from the first, staggering the rows to create a diamond or checkerboard pattern.

Step 2. Inoculating Your Logs

Getting your plug spawn dowels into the hole should now be a breeze. All you have to do now is gently tap them in with a hammer to secure them.

Your plugs should be flush with the log’s timber and just beneath the bark’s surface. You’ll be able to plug the hole with wax this way.

This is an important step in keeping your mycelium safe and uninfected. The most common form of wax used to fill holes is soy wax; however, other waxes such as cheese or beeswax can also be utilised.

Once the wax has melted, use a wax applicator to apply it to your holes. You can buy them inexpensively or make your own with a cotton ball or rag, or a small brush.

Step 3. Incubating Your Lion’s Mane Mushrooms

Once you have inserted the spawn into your logs and sealed them with wax, your logs are pretty much ready to be left for incubation.

There are several options for storing logs during incubation. Shaded areas like beneath a tree or the side of a house are ideal places to keep your logs.

The most important thing is to keep your logs in an area with good air circulation and a high humidity level.

In dry weather, water your logs with a hose once or twice a week for 10 minutes to maintain the proper moisture level. If they dry out, your mycelium will die.

Step 4. How to Help Your Lion’s Mane To Fruit

You can speed up the growth of your mushrooms by initiating or ‘shocking’ your logs. This can be accomplished by soaking them in cold water for 12-24 hours. This can be done in a stream or pond, a kiddie pool, or even bathtubs or boats!

To ensure that the mycelium has colonised the majority of the log, wait at least a year before shocking it. Instead of waiting two or three years for mushrooms to grow normally, shock is a great technique to accelerate their growth.

When should you harvest Lion’s Mane Mushroom?

It won’t be long before you can harvest and enjoy your lion’s mane mushrooms as they begin to fruit. You might be eating excellent, fresh lion’s mane mushrooms in as little as 4 weeks.

A Lion’s mane mushroom has reached maturity when it stops expanding in diameter and its spines start to lengthen and thicken.

Harvest them before they turn pink or brown for the best taste. To achieve various mane textures, harvest the lion’s mane at various stages of growth and maturity. Younger lion’s mane mushrooms are firmer than their older counterparts.

Cut the “ball” off close to the base of the Lion’s Mane using a sharp knife, being careful not to injure the fruit. If handled gently to avoid bruising, lion’s mane will stay considerably longer in the fridge.

How should Lion’s Mushroom be stored?

Fresh lion’s mane keeps for about a week in the refrigerator. If you have more lion’s mane mushrooms than you can use in a week, dry them out in a food dehydrator or oven to store them.

Fresh vs Dried

Keep them refrigerated and away from water if you’re storing them fresh. Keep in mind that they will only survive a few days in the fridge.

If you want to keep the mushrooms fresh, put them in a paper bag that isn’t too full. They must be able to breathe and keep away from direct dampness; otherwise, they will absorb it like sponges.

If you discover any dark or soft places on a mushroom, or if the mushroom feels squishy and slimy, it’s a dead giveaway that it’s going bad.

Consider drying your mushrooms for a longer-term approach to storing them.

You must finely slice your mushrooms after properly washing them. After that, you set them on your tray and dehydrate them. They’ll be there for the next 6-8 hours. Once completely dry and crisp, seal in a jar and store until ready to eat.

Although this is a straightforward method for long-term storage, it can be time-consuming.

Lion’s Mane Mushroom FAQs

Are Lion’s Mane Good for You?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are a type of medicinal mushroom with a variety of health advantages.

According to research, lion’s mane mushrooms can strengthen the immune system which protects the body from pathogens that enter through the nose and mouth.

Are Lion’s Mane’s Mushrooms Legal?

Lion’s mane mushrooms are perfectly legal. It’s only that fresh lion’s mane is hard to come by, and you’re unlikely to find them at your local supermarket.

What substrates does Lion’s Mane grow best on?

The following are the best types of substrate for growing your Lion’s Mane:

• Hardwood logs (I.e. Ash or Beech)
• Hardwood fuel pellets (HWFP)
• Master’s Mix Supplemented

Other Growing Guides

How To Grow Oyster Mushrooms

How To Grow Shiitake Mushrooms: Everything You Need To Know

How To Grow Mushrooms In Coffee Grounds

How To Grow Mushrooms In Buckets

How To Grow Mushrooms Outdoors With A Mushroom Bed