UPDATED 17 MAY 2024

by Eric Bartlett

If you’re thinking about getting a new trolling motor, it’s important to get an overview of the different trolling motor brands, as well as their most important characteristics.

In this article we’ll walk you through the most important trolling motor brands, and what you can expect from them in terms of quality and pricing.

What are the different brands of trolling motors?

Here is a list of the most important electric trolling motor brands currently on the market:

• Minn Kota
• MotorGuide
• Rhodan
• Lowrance
• Garmin
• Newport Vessels
• Watersnake
• Haswing

Now let’s take a closer look at each of these brands, and discuss where they are made, what types of trolling motors they produce, and at what price range they typically sell.

Minn Kota trolling motors

Minn Kota is the oldest electric trolling motor company in the world, and was founded in 1934 by O. G. Schmidt, who invented the first electric trolling motor earlier that same year.

This explains their long and rich history in the trolling motor industry, and why they have been a market leader in this space for many decades.

The parent company of Minn Kota is Johnson Outdoors, which also owns Humminbird.

As a result of this connection, Minn Kota trolling motors are generally compatible with Humminbird boat electronics, and in fact their high end models are built to network seamlessly with Humminbird units.

Where are Minn Kota trolling motors made?

Minn Kota trolling motors are designed and manufactured in Mankato, Minnesota.

The fact that their motors are proudly handcrafted in the USA explains why it can be difficult to get Minn Kota trolling motors, since their plant in Mankato sometimes struggles to keep up with the constant high demand.

What types of trolling motors does Minn Kota make?

Minn Kota makes a wide variety of freshwater and saltwater trolling motors, ranging from small, basic units with tiller steering, all the way to high end spot lock trolling motors with built-in transducers.

Their most high end model is the Ultrex, which is currently one of the best GPS controlled trolling motors on the market.

In addition to trolling motors, Minn Kota also makes electric outboard motors, shallow water anchors, and battery chargers.

At what price range are Minn Kota trolling motors usually sold?

$ to $$$ – Minn Kota trolling motors come in all prices, starting just over $100 for the cheapest models, and going up to over $3,500 for the most expensive high end models.

MotorGuide trolling motors

Oklahoma based MotorGuide is one hundred percent specialized in trolling motors, and provides a high quality alternative to Minn Kota at a more affordable price.

Where are MotorGuide trolling motors made?

MotorGuide trolling motors are made in Tulsa, Oklahoma. This reliance on US based production is one reason for their high quality motors, but also explains why it can be hard to get a MotorGuide model of choice.

The parent company of MotorGuide is Brunswick Corporation, which also owns a wide range of other boating and marine brands.

What types of trolling motors does MotorGuide make?

MotorGuide makes a wide variety of saltwater and freshwater trolling motors, including hand controlled units, cable steer trolling motors, as well as high end GPS controlled units.

Their most high end model is the Tour Pro, which was developed specifically for the bass pro circuit.

At what price range are MotorGuide trolling motors usually sold?

$ to $$ – High end MotorGuide models are generally cheaper than high end Minn Kota models, and rarely exceed the $2,000 price point.

Their cheap models, on the other hand, are similarly priced, and start between $100 and $200.

Rhodan trolling motors

Sarasota based Rhodan Marine Systems vies with Minn Kota for the title of best high end trolling motor brand made in the USA.

Where are Rhodan trolling motors made?

Rhodan trolling motors are designed and built in Sarasota, Florida. In addition to manufacturing locally in the USA, they are also famous for their world class customer support if one of their units is defective.

What types of trolling motors does Rhodan make?

Rhodan specializes almost exclusively in making GPS controlled trolling motors that are primarily used by saltwater anglers.

In addition to trolling motors, they also make and sell a wide range of accessories and spare parts of trolling motors.

At what price range are Rhodan trolling motors usually sold?

$$ to $$$ – Rhodan GPS anchor trolling motors are definitely at the expensive end of the scale, and come at a higher cost than Minn Kota high end models.

Since they only make GPS controlled units, they don’t provide any low cost or entry level options.

Lowrance trolling motors

Tulsa based Lowrance is primarily known for their fish finders and other boat electronics, but in 2019 entered into the trolling motor market when they released their Ghost trolling motor.

The nice thing about this is that the Ghost integrates well with Lowrance fish finders and mapping devices, and is built to network with them.

Where are Lowrance trolling motors made?

Lowrance trolling motors are designed in Tulsa, Oklahoma, and built in Ensenada, Mexico.

What types of trolling motors does Lowrance make?

Lowrance currently only makes a single trolling motor model, the Ghost. The Ghost is a high end GPS controlled unit with built-in transducer, and was designed to compete with the top spot lock trolling motors on the market.

At what price range are Lowrance trolling motors usually sold?

$$$ – The Lowrance Ghost is currently one of the most expensive trolling motors on the market, and costs upwards of $3,300. At this price point it competes with the most high end spot lock models of Minn Kota, Rhodan, and Garmin.

Garmin trolling motors

Olathe based Garmin makes a wide range of consumer and marine electronics. Just like Lowrance, they entered the trolling motor market in 2019, when they released their Force trolling motor.

Where are Garmin trolling motors made?

Garmin trolling motors are built in Olathe, Kansas, and Taiwan. Since Garmin also produces a wide range of fish finders and mapping electronics, the nice thing about this is that the Force trolling motor is compatible with other Garmin boat electronics.

What types of trolling motors does Garmin make?

Garmin currently makes a single trolling motor model, the Force. And similar to the Lowrance Ghost, the Garmin Force is a high end spot lock trolling motor that comes with a built-in Garmin transducer.

At what price range are Garmin trolling motors usually sold?

$$$ – The Garmin Force is currently among the most expensive trolling motors (second only to the Lowrance Ghost), and costs upwards of $3,100. In this price category it competes head to head with the Lowrance Ghost, Minn Kota Ultrex, and MotorGuide Tour Pro.

Newport Vessels trolling motors

Newport Vessels is relatively new to the trolling motor market, and specializes in entry level models that are competitively priced.

Where are Newport Vessels trolling motors made?

Newport Vessels trolling motors are made in China. In addition to trolling motors, they also make electric outboards, boats, and a range of marine accessories and parts.

What types of trolling motors does Newport Vessels make?

Newport Vessels specializes in making basic electric trolling motors for small boats, kayaks, and pontoon boats.

At what price range are Newport Vessels trolling motors usually sold?

$ – Newport Vessels models are all in the low cost end of the price scale, with the cheapest trolling motors starting around $150, and going up to $470 for the most expensive model.

Watersnake trolling motors

Australian based Watersnake Motors belongs to the Jarvis Walker group of companies that produce a wide range of fishing, boating, and marine electronics products.

Where are Watersnake trolling motors made?

Watersnake trolling motors are made in Dandenong South, Victoria, Australia.

What types of trolling motors does Watersnake make?

Watersnake produces several basic trolling motors for kayaks and small boats, as well as a high end GPS controlled trolling motor model.

At what price range are Watersnake trolling motors usually sold?

$ to $$ – Most Watersnake trolling motors are at the low cost end of the price scale. They start around $150, and go up to around $550.

The main exception to this is the Geo-Spot trolling motor, which comes with GPS anchor and costs about $1,500.

Haswing trolling motors

Chinese based Haswing Outdoor produces some of the most affordable trolling motors with GPS navigation functionalities.

Where are Haswing trolling motors made?

Haswing trolling motors are made in Yantai, Mainland China. In addition to trolling motors they also provide a range of spare parts and accessories.

What types of trolling motors does Haswing make?

Haswing makes a handful of basic transom and bow mount trolling motors, as well as a sophisticated GPS controlled unit that integrates with a mapping app called Helmsman.

At what price range are Haswing trolling motors usually sold?

$$ – Haswing specializes in middle of the range pricing with most of its models, with prices starting around $300, and going up to $800.

The main exception to this is their Cayman GPS model, which costs around $1,170, and is second only to the Minn Kota PowerDrive as the cheapest spot lock trolling motor on the market.

What trolling motor brands have spot lock?

The following trolling motor brands make models with spot lock:

• Minn Kota
• MotorGuide
• Rhodan
• Lowrance
• Garmin
• Watersnake
• Haswing

In addition to this, Minn Kota and MotorGuide enable you to retrofit some of their models by adding spot lock functionality to them after market (even if they originally did not have spot lock).

What are cheap trolling motor brands?

The following trolling motor brands make cheap models:

• Minn Kota
• Newport Vessels
• Watersnake
• Haswing (Cayman GPS series)

Interestingly, Minn Kota not only makes some of the best and most expensive trolling motors on the market, but also provides some of the most competitively priced models (including cheapest trolling motor overall, as well as the cheapest spot lock trolling motor on the market).

Final remarks

This concludes our discussion of the top trolling motor brands.

While trolling motors have become increasingly popular over the years, most trolling motors are made by just a handful of brands that are dominating the global market.

Note that in addition to these, there are several other trolling motor brands made by companies that don’t specialize in producing trolling motors, but instead make a wide variety of other products, which we did not include here.

If you’re currently debating what kind of trolling motor to get for your boat, check out our article on the pros and cons of 12V vs 24V trolling motors

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Check out this video to learn how to manage your small track of land to bag your trophy buck.

ACCESS OPTION 1

Public land is certainly an option and there have been numerous trophy bucks taken off public land in Kentucky. One place to consider is Rockcastle River Wildlife Management Area (WMA) because the KDFWR just acquired it in 2016. Prior to that, it was private land and had developed a fairly abundant deer population because the former owners, and perhaps even adjacent property owners, either did not allow it to be hunted at all or permitted only “light” hunting. So, in theory at least, there could still be an older-than-average antlered bucks on the site. Also, since much of the area is reclaimed surface-mined coal land and because at least one or more adjacent landowners grow wildlife food plots on their property, the supply of herbaceous or early successional deer forage in the area should be quite high.

Other options include Daniel Boone National Forest property in Pulaski County, some of which adjoins Rockcastle River WMA, and portions of Lake Cumberland WMA that lie in Pulaski and Wayne counties.

Yancy suggested, “Those interested in deer hunting on Lake Cumberland WMA should consider using a boat to get on portions of the area that are not accessible via public roads; just be sure to inquire in advance with the Army Corps of Engineers’ Lake Manager’s Office in Somerset, Kentucky to determine whether potential hunting locations will be boat-accessible at winter pool lake levels.”

ACCESS OPTION 2

Leasing has dramatically changed the landscape of hunting across the country. Although personally, I wish it had never come to the point it is now, the reality is that if one wants to hunt quality private land, the options are limited. It typically must be owned either by the hunter, a relative or close friend or it must be leased. The days of knocking on a stranger’s door and getting permission to hunt are, for the most part, a thing of the past.

There are lots of options for finding a lease, however. Individuals with property to lease often advertise in local want ad papers, on Facebook or sometimes Craigslist. Hunt clubs do the same thing.

Hunt clubs are generally comprised of several members who divide the cost of leasing land, thereby making it more affordable to rent large tracts of quality property. When a member drops out, these clubs often advertise to find a replacement. If you to decide to join a hunt club, be prepared to adhere to a set of custom hunt rules for the club.

Many realtors are now offering property for lease. Some of these are listed as Whitetail Properties or Mossy Oak Properties, while others are simply run under the realtor name. Many specialized hunt leasing companies are also out there, and a simple search on the Internet will pop up many results.

ACCESS OPTION 3

A third option is to employ the services of an outfitter. This is often a bit pricey, but if a hunter wants to access a certain section of the state and to have an opportunity to harvest a mature whitetail, it may well be worth shelling out a few bucks. And with all the popularity of trophy hunting in Kentucky, more and more outfitters are springing up around the state every year.

Searching for an outfitter actually servicing the three counties spotlighted here only resulted in one hit, although there may be others this writer did not find. Whitetail Heaven Outfitters hunts Pulaski County and is owned by Tevis McCauley. They also hunt other Kentucky counties as well as in Ohio and Indiana.

Whitetail Heaven has been hunting trophy bucks for many years and their properties are managed extensively. Along with prime natural habitats, they use food plots, minerals and supplemental feedings to enhance the quality of the deer population. The average harvested buck with their service is right at 150 inches and the average size typically goes up each year.

Guided whitetail hunts there and at most other Kentucky outfitters typically start at about $2,000 and goes up from there. There is a 130-inch minimum harvest size at Whitetail Heaven and some farms have a 140- or 150-inch minimum. Contact them at (800) 689-6619 or (859) 509-2704, or go to whitetailheavenoutfitters.com.

Whether you are looking to practice target shooting or you want to get into airsoft games, learning more about airsoft guns is an absolute necessity. This guide is here to help you learn more about what airsoft guns are, how they work and what type of model might be right for your needs and preferences.

What is an Airsoft Gun?

Airsoft guns do not shoot traditional bullets; instead, they shoot 6-millimeter pellets, otherwise known simply as “BBs”. Not only do airsoft guns not shoot traditional bullets, but the pellets leave the chamber at a much slower speed than bullets from a standard gun. This means that when airsoft guns are used safely and correctly, getting hit by an airsoft gun pellet should not cause much pain or result in any heavy-bleeding injuries. However, that being said, an airsoft gun is also not a toy. When operating an airsoft gun, you will still need to be mindful of your environment and take the recommended safety precautions. It is also recommended when playing games with airsoft guns that everyone wears the standard protective gear.

What are Airsoft Guns Used For?

Some airsoft guns have been designed to be almost exact replicas of real guns, whereas some operate more like paintball guns. In the same way as the designs of an airsoft gun can differ, so can the intended uses. Some of the most common uses of airsoft guns include:

• Airsoft gun games this is seen as an alternative to paintball and is played throughout the US, Europe, and Asia.
• Some police forces, like the UK police, also use airsoft guns, especially when dealing with large crowds.
• Some people choose to use airsoft guns to deter smaller animals.
• Airsoft guns are also popular with people who are looking for a safe way to practice target shooting.

The Different Types of Airsoft Guns

Some of the most common types of airsoft guns include:

Spring-Powered

Spring-powered is not the strongest form of airsoft gun, but they do provide a superior level of shooter control and accuracy. This type of airsoft gun is viewed as ideal for beginners, there are many affordable options, and they come in a number of different sizes.

Electric Guns

Airsoft electric guns, otherwise known simply as AEGs, are battery-powered; the pellet from these guns is propelled using an electric motor and a gearbox. This type of airsoft gun is extremely modifiable and is one of the most popular forms of airsoft gun, alongside the rifle.

Sniper Rifle

The sniper rifle is the perfect choice of airsoft gun for anyone who is looking to shoot at a long distance. The majority of airsoft sniper rifles work with a spring-power mechanism which allows you to use a significant amount of power in one shot. While the majority of sniper rifles are spring-powered, it is possible to purchase an electric or gas-powered sniper, depending upon your specific needs and preferences.

Shotgun

If you are looking for force rather than distance, then the shotgun might be the perfect choice of airsoft gun for your needs. Many airsoft shotguns have a very similar feel to their more serious counterparts and offer a great spray fire experience. However, they do require close proximity and can be difficult for younger users to pump.

Today the pump shotgun is a pretty utilitarian tool. Most have next to no frills; any accessorizing is usually limited to lights, lasers, magazine extensions or loading ports. There’s nothing wrong with this. One does not need or even want figured wood with hand-cut checkering for defending one’s home, breaching a door or bringing down a duck in a marsh. But a century ago elegance was as much a part of gun design as practicality.

Pump- or slide-action long guns have been around for a long time. Alexander Bain of Britain received the first patent for a pump action in 1854. During the latter part of the 19th century Winchester, which was the recognized leader in lever-action repeating rifles, tasked John Browning with providing the company with its first repeating shotgun, and because Winchester was all about lever actions it wanted its repeater to be a lever-gun as well. Browning responded with what would be known as the Model 1887 shotgun. The Model 1887 enjoyed some success, but it did have some handling and reliability issues.

Winchester eventually ceded to Browning the notion that a pump-action shotgun would be a better, more reliable repeater. In 1893 the company introduced a slide-action shotgun designed by Browning. There were immediate issues with the Model 1893, one of which was the 1893 was designed for black powder shells. Ammo companies were rapidly changing to smokeless powder in their shotshells, and Winchester’s brass were terrified that they would be vulnerable to lawsuits from people injured from shooting smokeless loads in the black-powder Model ’93. Within four years Winchester redesigned the Model ’93 into the Model 1897, replete with a solid-top receiver and 2 3/4″ chambers. Another safety feature was incorporated so that the fore-end had to be pushed forward slightly to unlock the bolt before the action could be operated. It may have been the first instance of a product recall in America; Winchester offered to buy back or exchange a Model ’97 for a Model ’93. The Model ’97 was a solid shotgun with more than a million copies made during its 60-year production run.

Thomas Crossley (TC) Johnson came to work at Winchester as a 23-year-old engineer in 1885. Johnson would eventually be responsible for no less than eight of Winchester’s most iconic firearms. Soon after the turn of the 20th century Johnson began to work on a more modern design than that of the Model ’97. Competition for marketplace share was intense between gunmakers, and all of them invested heavily into keeping themselves ahead of the technological and design curve. The most objectionable feature of the Model ’97 was that damnable exposed hammer. It just seemed offensible to the sensibilities of a refined shooter. The fix that Johnson came up with was to simply hide the hammer inside an enclosed and streamlined receiver.

Johnson also redesigned the internals. Whereas the Model ’97 used a carrier or shell lifter that does double duty to lock the bolt, the Model 1912 locks the bolt directly into the receiver and has a separate bolt release activated by pulling the trigger or pushing a button at the rear of the trigger guard. The carrier is hinged at its rear and under spring tension so that when the bolt is in battery it is more or less flush with the bottom of the receiver. This arrangement is stronger than that of the 1897, though the older shotgun has never been criticized for a lack of strength. Like the Model ’97, the Model 1912 was not originally produced with a disconnector, meaning that a shooter can hold the trigger down and fire the gun by simply operating the slide. This feature seems to mostly impress people who know little about guns or how to use them, as well as the movie going public.

The Model 12—as it became known after 1919—was made from the finest steel alloys of the time. Parts were forged and required extensive, and often complicated, machining to produce them. Winchester’s marketing guys immediately christened it the “Perfect Repeater,” and like a lot of those old Winchester nicknames, it struck a chord with the shooting public and became common in usage. All of this came at a price, of course. The Model 12 was about 40 percent more expensive than the ’97, yet it consistently outsold its older brother during the 45-year-span they shared in the Winchester catalog.

When it was introduced, the Model 12 was only available in 20 gauge, 12- and 16-gauge Model 12s became available in late 1913. A 28-gauge Model 12 was brought out in 1934. Sadly, this is the rarest of Model 12s, probably as a result of The Depression and the fact that the 28 gauge—as wonderful as it is—was the prerogative of those with a fair amount of discretionary cash, something sorely lacking during The Depression and World War II. In 1933 a completely scaled down version of the Model 12—the Model 42—came out in .410 bore.

Like most of the great Winchesters, the Model 12 had its ups and downs. During its heyday it was made in Field, Skeet, Trap, Tournament and Super Pigeon grades, the differences primarily being in grades of walnut and engraving. The Heavy Duck Gun was never marked as such. Rather, it was roll marked with “Super Speed and Super X.” These guns were chambered for 3″ magnum shells and debuted in 1935. Some were made with a solid rib; others had a vent rib, but most were plain barreled. A Featherweight model came out in 1961. Beginning in 1928 some Model 12s came from the factory with a Cutts Compensator, this feature was discontinued in 1954. Some were also equipped with the competing Polychoke.

While the majority of Model 12s were field guns, quite a few saw service in the military and law enforcement. Model 12 Trench Guns were produced on special order to the military in 1919. Riot gun versions—again on special order—came about in 1918 and were produced for the subsequent 45 years. All of these marshal shotguns were available in 12 gauge only.

For much of its production run the Model 12 was the repeating shotgun that all others were judged by. Its smooth operation and reliability remains legendary among knowledgeable shotgunners. The fact that it was more expensive than its competitors meant virtually nothing, but eventually it became the shotgun’s undoing. When Remington brought out its Model 870 in 1950, the Model 12 would start feeling its age. The Remington looked almost as good as the Model 12—aficionados can tell them apart in their sleep—and the upstart was as reliable and fast handling as the older Model 12. Post-war production costs were headed into the stratosphere. The increasing costs combined with market share loss put the Model 12 on the chopping block during the infamous 1964 reorganization of the Winchester product line. Customers and gun writers screamed like a calf being branded, but as a stock broker friend of mine once said, “Never underestimate the power of money.” The Model 12 as a production gun was finished.

A few Model 12s leaked out of the Custom Shop until 1980. Another limited run—more like a trickle—was done from 1993 until 2006 by Miroku for USRAC. But the notion that function is everything and form must conform to function, aesthetics be dammed has shoved aside the notion of elegance being a critical part of a sporting tool. Too, it has become more widely accepted that tools are consumable, and replacement is simply a part of doing business.

More than 2 million Model 12s were made, and that legend of smooth operation and durability has fueled some collector interest. Model 12s can be abused, left out in the elements, dropped, kicked or worse and still keep shooting. Given even minimal care, however, a Model 12 will outlast virtually any other pump-gun. If you can find one, a Model 12 is well worth the investment. I inherited mine from an old family friend who went to his reward about 25 years ago. With it I have shot some geese on Maryland’s Eastern Shore, the Mecca of waterfowling. I may not be doing as much waterfowling as I once did, but I can’t imagine being without a Model 12.

There are multiple arguments about the best coyote ammo, but hunters agree on the need to drop them fast.

The most effective .223 ammo for coyotes is Hornady Superformance Varmint 53 Grain V-MAX (Order it from MidwayUSA here). It combines the highest ballistic coefficient with great accuracy, the highest velocity, and the least damage to the pelt. There are other options for barrels with fast twist rates and that are more affordable.

Barrel twist rate, shot distance, and affordability will dictate your most likely best performers. Take the best options, and find the most accurate one for your rifle. Read on!

The Most Popular .223 Ammo for Coyote Hunting

By far, the most popular choice for varmint and small predator hunting is Hornady’s 53 grain and 55 grain V-MAX bullets. 71 percent of skilled hunters polled preferred this round after first trying multiple other options.

I personally asked over 500 coyote hunters about their favorite .223 round and why they choose it. The two most popular are Hornady’s 55 grain Varmint Express, and Hornady’s Superformance 53 grain. Most agreed that the Superformance is superior, but many opted for the Varmint Express due to price.

Hornady’s Superformance Varmint is the king of popular coyote ammo for the .223. I find it stunning to get this much following behind anything! Here’s what they had to Say:

• The 53-grain V-MAX combines both reliable accuracy and the explosive nature desired for a dedicated lightweight coyote round.
• It’s the best pelt-saving option for the .223.
• It’s a great compromise between velocity and high ballistic coefficient.

The words “explosive” and “dependable” were common descriptions attributed to this round. One hunter told me “I’ll not leave home without it. Real-world, unbiased reports from hunters continue to choose this over any other.

Hornady’s V-MAX bullet is a polymer tipped, copper-jacketed bullet with a swaged lead core. It’s a boattail design (slightly skinnier at the rear) and has a solid, flat but thin base. It also has a higher ballistic coefficient than most, which is the measurement of a straight-shooting bullet.

The Most Accurate .223 Coyote Ammo

Now let’s go over accuracy. You can’t get what you can’t hit. Accuracy is the most important part of the equation.

Hornady is well-known for making highly consistent, precision-made bullets. Their bullets are some of the more preferred for hand loaders requiring the utmost performance in cutting bullseyes and slaying canines. Hornady’s Superformance ammo is loaded under match-grade quality control.

Nosler is also a leading manufacturer of precision ammo. both companies have excellent attention to detail and quality control in the manufacturing process. Either company is an excellent bet for quality ammo.

They are super consistent in brass thickness, case length, seating depth, and powder charge. If the bullets agree with your rifle, more on that next, you can expect well under MOA (about an inch) groupings at 100 yards. That is what skilled shooters expect to find downrange.

The bullets do need to agree with your rifle. Minute differences in the chamber, throat, and barrel of your rifle will tend to favor one specific ammo over others, sometimes for no apparent reason. You need to choose the most likely accurate bullets, then try them and find the best performer for your rifle.

The best options to choose from tend to consistently be Hornady and Nosler, but don’t be afraid to try something else, sometimes that gives surprising results too. Let the rifle tell you what it likes best. Nosler does tend to over-penetrate a bit more, ruining more pelts than Hornady’s ammo.

So, what sort of accuracy do you need to hit a coyote? A rule of thumb is if you can hit a quarter (1 inch) at 100 yards, while seated at a shooting bench, you should do alright in hunting conditions. It’s important to remember that hunting conditions always reduce a shooter’s precision a bit.

The target area on a coyote is roughly the size of a softball. If you can hit a quarter on the bench, you should be able to drop a coyote in the field.

Best .223 Ammo by Barrel Twist Rate

The twist rate largely determines the best weight range of bullets you use. At .223 velocities, there’s little concern about too much twist rate, just be sure to have enough. Here’s approximately what to expect at .223 velocities.

• 1 in 14 twist: bullets under 55 grain
• 1 in 12 twist: bullets up to 55 grain
• 1 in 10 twist: bullets up to 65 grain
• 1 in 9 twist: bullets up to 68 grain
• 1 in 8 twist: bullets up to 70 grain
• 1 in 7 twist: bullets 55 grain and up

If you are looking at more affordable options, use this as a guide. I recommend Hornady Frontier 55 grain Spire Point. It’s a cheap, functional choice. It just tears up the hide a bit more.

Best Coyote Ammo to Save the Hides.

Coyote hides sell for around $20 plus or minus depending on the quality, and the current fur market. If they are torn up from a large exit wound, they are considered unsellable on the market. To “Save the Hide”, you want to make a small entrance hole and no exit.

That’s where lightweight, fast-moving bullets come in. Modern varmint and coyote hunting bullets are designed to quite literally explode reasonable hunting distances. They usually penetrate about 4 inches into a coyote. Not passing through but destroying the chest cavity.

There are lighter bullets with higher velocities, like Hornady’s lead-free 35 grain NTX, but these have lower ballistic coefficients. There is also a number offered in the 40 grain range. They start out blazing fast, with an impressively flat trajectory, but are tossed around by the wind and ineffective past 150 yards.

Best .223 Ammo for Coyotes Past 200 Yards

At 200 yards, things are starting to change for the lighter rounds, under 50 grains. Even if they are still going fast, they give to the wind too much. Heavier bullets in the same caliber tend to be less affected by the wind. That’s where the ballistic coefficient comes into play.

Once again, the general consensus is that the 53 grain Hornady round is the proven top-performer. At 250 yards, it has less wind drift and therefore kills more coyotes than lighter bullets. There is still plenty of killing power left at 250 yards to roll over a coyote and stop it in its tracks.

If you do want to shoot coyotes much further than 250 yards, I’m gonna recommend a different bullet. Something in the 65-80 grain range. Realize that these bullets will buck the wind better, but will not perform like the Hornady V-MAX and will give you pass through.

You will make hits but may not recover the animal. That’s more for damage control; just getting rid of them.

For shots over 250 yards, it’s really best to use either a faster caliber like the 22-250 or a heavier caliber like the .308 or 6.5 Creedmoor to be sure the bullet isn’t blown off course.

Want to know what the absolute best inshore fishing lures are?

We’re constantly getting questions from the Salt Strong community about what the best lures for inshore fishing are, what our favorite lures are and how to fish each lure for different inshore species.

We decided to answer your questions once and for all and show you the top five inshore fishing lures of all time!

To do that, we came together to talk about our favorite lures. We narrowed it down to five that we think every inshore angler should have in their tackle box.

In this podcast episode, we go over the top inshore fishing lures of all time and how to best use them.

Do you have a favorite inshore fishing lure? Have any questions about our top inshore fishing lures?

Let us know in the comments below!

To learn more about the best fishing lures for every kind of fishing and get access to exclusive fishing gear, don’t forget to check out the Salt Strong Insider Fishing Club.

The Top Five Inshore Fishing Lures

We’ve narrowed down the best five fishing lures for inshore fishing after extensive research and testing.

These lures have helped us catch literally thousands of fish. Being confident in how to use them can do the same for you.

In no particular order, the top five inshore fishing lures of all time are:

1. The Paddletail Lure

One of the best lures to find fish in new areas is the soft plastic paddletail on a jig head.

This is an inexpensive and easy-to-use lure that catches just about any inshore fish there is. It is especially effective for catching trout and redfish on the flats or near structure.

The paddletail jig can be worked with a straight retrieve or with a twitch-twitch motion bouncing it off the bottom. Both retrievals will catch fish.

There are many manufacturers of paddletail lures, so you have a ton to choose from.

Our personal favorite is the Slam Shady 2.0 paddletail.

It’s white with gold and silver flecks to attract fish, and the tail has incredible action that elicits tons of reaction strikes.

Click here to get a free pack to try out! (While supplies last.)

2. The Weedless Spoon

This lure is a timeless classic that catches just about any kind of fish there is.

While these lures do not look spectacular compared to other fishing lures, they are extremely effective.

Spoons create a lot of vibrations and flash in the water. They are designed not to look like any prey in particular, but rather create a lot of commotion and flash that inshore fish cannot resist.

Gold spoons seem to be the most popular of all for inshore anglers, but almost any color can work just fine. Our personal favorite is the Johnson Minnow Spoon, which is a weedless spoon we can work through grass and mudflats.

3. Topwater Plugs

Possibly the most exciting way to catch fish, topwater lures are an effective way to entice inshore fish and produce explosive visual strikes.

The “walk-the-dog” types of topwater lures are deadly just about anywhere there are inshore feeding fish. They are especially great over shallow water where fish do not have to rise up off the bottom too far to eat the lure.

Some of our favorite topwater plugs are the Heddon Super Spook and the Rapala Skitterwalk. We like to replace the treble hooks with single inline hooks to help keep ourselves safe and for protecting fish that are to be released. Single inline hooks dig into fish with hard mouths better than treble hooks – which is an important advantage when fishing for species such as tarpon.

Our favorite is our very own Moonwalker Topwater Lure.

Tip: fish topwater lures in the early morning and evening/night time for the best results. We particularly like the early morning because there is usually less floating debris (such as dead grass) than at night.

4. The Bucktail Jig

Bucktail jigs are the original gangsters of inshore fishing and are still just as effective today as they were 100 years ago.

This lure is cheap to buy and even easier to make at home if you have the materials (click here for a jig making tutorial). All it takes is a jig head, some bucktail (which you can buy online or at any fly fishing shop), and thread to hold it all together.

These are one of our go-to lures for big snook and are great for other inshore species such as pompano, redfish, trout, and even bass.

You can use heavier bucktails to catch massive snook and tarpon in deep water with heavy current or use tiny bucktail jigs to catch trout on the flats. Both tactics are effective.

5. Jerk Baits and Twitch Baits

Suspending jerk baits and twitch baits are lures that every inshore angler should have and know how to use.

For soft plastic jerk baits, we love the 5-inch Alabama Leprechaun jerk shad rigged weedless on a weighted hook. This is our go-to rig for fishing on grass flats and is deadly for redfish, trout, snook, and pretty much any other predator fish that feeds on the flats.

Tip: These soft plastic jerk baits have to be rigged correctly in order to work. If they’re rigged incorrectly, they’ll spin or have terrible action in the water and won’t catch fish.

Note: The jerk shad is a lure that helped land a catch of a lifetime when sight fishing from our 3rd-floor balcony (see the balcony catch video here).

Conversely, hardbody twitch baits that work in a similar way to their soft plastic cousins are another lure type you need to know how to use. You can work these just like your jerk baits.

Most twitch baits are not weedless, so keeping these off the bottom is a more effective way to fish these lures.

We especially like the MirrOlure MirrOdine.

It is one of our favorite twitch baits and has a great profile in the water.

Bonus Inshore Lures: Shrimp Lures

One thing we didn’t mention in our top five inshore fishing lures list was lures that imitate shrimp.

We all know that just about any inshore fish absolutely loves to eat shrimp. Having some lures that look like shrimp is always a good idea as they will likely catch a ton of fish when you use them.

The ultimate artificial shrimp imitation is the Power Prawn shrimp lure rigged on Power Prawn jigheads. This shrimp lure is hands down the best we’ve come across and catches all species of fish!

The Berkley Gulp Shrimp on a jig head is one of our absolute favorite lures when the conditions are turned up and choppy. The scent from the Gulp Shrimp adds another element to entice the fish to eat your lure.

So far, the Gulp products are the only ones we’ve been able to find that smell so good to fish that the used ones can be cut into small pieces for catching tons of pinfish and other small baitfish.

The D.O.A. Shrimp is another staple every inshore fisherman should have. These lures are extremely versatile and can be rigged on an unweighted hook, jig head, and even a popping cork. Each method will catch fish.

Savage Gear shrimp is another one that we’ve had success with, and there of course are many more options.

Learn more about the Insider Fishing Club

Top Five Inshore Fishing Lures [PODCAST]

You can watch the video version of this podcast below (which I highly recommend), listen to the audio version by clicking the play button underneath it, or listen to it on iTunes, Stitcher, or Spotify.

Note: Don’t forget to subscribe to the Salt Strong podcast on iTunes, Stitcher, or Spotify.

Related Podcasts:

• IS THERE A SECRET WAY TO WORK YOUR LURE?
• SWIMBAIT, CRANKBAIT, JERKBAIT, & TWITCHBAIT (WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?)

Conclusion

Having a couple of lures you can use confidently and often will up your fishing game and help you catch more fish.

The lures above are proven to catch fish. Knowing how to use all of them will allow you to effectively fish the entire water column, which is critical when you are trying to locate where the fish are.

Remember, the most important thing is to find the feeding zone. Most of the time when you find the feeding zone, it won’t matter what lure you’re using — the fish will eat it.

However, these lures will have you prepared for every fishing situation when you do find the feeding zone.

If you have any questions or comments about this article, let us know in the comments section.

To learn more about the Insider Fishing Club, click here now.

P.S. – To see all of the past podcast episodes, click here now.

Tight lines!

Related Articles:

• 7 ESSENTIAL SALTWATER FISHING LURES THAT CATCH FISH PRETTY MUCH ANYWHERE
• JOHNSON SILVER MINNOW WEEDLESS SPOON REVIEW & RIGGING TIPS
• HOW TO CATCH MORE REDFISH, SNOOK, & GROUPER WITH JUST ONE LURE

Take a look at selecting shot size and choke size for bobwhite quail hunting

Nowadays, I use a 20-gauge, over-under Beretta 686 Silver Pigeon choked in skeet and modified, respectively. When I walk out into the uplands with a 30-inch barrel, I have a bad habit of slinging my gun over my shoulder a little too confidently. Why? Because the gun is a nice piece and I can trust that my No. 6 shot Kent Cartridge loads will consistently drop the explosive, bobwhite quail.

And, if you really want to be picky about it, I prefer to shoot my game birds with steel shot. I personally just don’t want lead in my meat, but that part is up to you.

If you think about the flight and escape habits of quail in their natural habitat, often they will sit tight in cover and hold for a pointing dog—assuming you have a pointing breed. Outside of that, if you’re anything like me, you’ve got a flushing retriever and you keep your actions closed and barrels loaded. There’s no time for tea, but I digress. Quail will flush fairly close and will often provide a reasonable shot if you take a little time to breathe before the shot.

What shot size is best for bobwhite quail?

If Prince Bob gives the pup a half-a-time-a-day, you should have within a 20 to 40 yard shot on a flushing bird. If you want more options, you’ve got the choice of No. 8 as well. I often skip over No. 7 1/2 simply because every time I shoot them birds never seem to fall dead on. My dog tends to do a little more work with the No. 7 1/2 shot as birds—yes, little 6-ounce bobwhites—seem to run off.

I think there may be some kind of jinx with me and No. 7 1/2, but, regardless, I do not recommend them for quail. Blame it on my Southern superstition if it pleases you, but regardless, you won’t catch me shooting them anymore.

What gauge is best for bobwhite quail?

It is my thought that if you’re reading this you have some kind of appreciation for the finer things in life. Why? Because you are chasing Mr. Bob. You’ve got some kind of fine shooting dog who’s working the heavy cover, thorns, and thickets that house and host our quarry. In addition to that pretty dog, you also likely have a nice-looking over-under Beretta like mine or your Grandaddy’s Winchester Model 12 pump gun.

At a time, Grandaddy was a quail specialist and now you’re in his footsteps. Either way, bobwhite quail hunting requires a bit of class and nostalgia, so shoot a gun that means something to you. The bird demands that much respect; the dog demands that much respect. Further, the habitat and landscape demand that footsteps be left by dog and man, birds are successfully retrieved in full, and memories are made along the way.

Wild Game Recipes: Spicy Brandy Cranberry Glazed Quail

I’ve shot quail with 12- through 28-gauge shotguns and even attempted with a 98-year-old .410. That didn’t last long due to more wasted gun power than shot birds. My choice gauges for wild bobwhite quail are primarily 20-gauges and secondarily, the classic 16-gauge side-by-side. Ammunition for 20-gauge shotguns is typically more readily available, especially in a pinch, though I would highly recommend soft-shooting 16-gauge RST shells if you prefer to run that gauge. For an older shotgun especially, the RST shells are a much lighter shooting load than most others and will put a little less wear and tear on Grandaddy’s old gun.

Concluding thoughts about hunting bobwhite quail

For sake of length, I will conclude because I’ve got a knack for talking shotguns to great length.

Obviously, if you have not noticed, I am a bit biased towards No. 6 loads because they are a size that’s been proven time and again. In the world of consumerism, many manufacturers are constantly producing loads for one reason or another. To this day I still do not understand the need for 3 1/2-inch loads and one definitely does not need them for a 6-ounce bird—2 3/4 inch shells will suffice. Further, quail are fairly fragile birds, so shooting No. 6 or No. 8 shot has been proven effective.

Much of a man’s quail shooting ineptitude comes not from selecting the wrong shot size, but from the hunter’s irreverence to the ethics of hunting. Ethical hunting is inclusive of finding and retrieving downed game, with or without a dog.

For many like myself, hunting with a dog is essential for not just the experience of following a dog through the woods, but also to increase my chances of finding downed game. Shooting No. 6 for me has additionally made retrieving shot birds significantly easier as seldom do I find crippled birds or runners.

Configuring your shot size, pattern, choke and barrel length as well as studying the habits of the birds themselves all come together to make a complete and successful hunting experience. Hunting ethically is understanding all aspects of your shotgun including the best shot size and gauge, and with respect to Bob, I would rather chase game birds in a dignified and ethical manner. That means shooting No. 6 shot (preferably steel) through any gauge, .410 through 12, choosing a skeet and/or modified choke configuration, as well as bringing along an enthusiastic pup that will find and retrieve your game.

How Public Land Bobwhite Quail Shift Patterns

Understanding Bobwhite Quail Behavior

Plantation Quail – A Southern Bobwhite Film

How Native Prairies Can Help Save Bobwhite Quail

Rock veteran Ted Nugent initially gained fame as the lead guitarist of The Amboy Dukes during the early times of his career. The rocker embarked on a solo career following his band’s break-up and has been releasing successful records such as ‘Cat Scratch Fever,’ ‘Free-For-All,’ and ‘Tooth Fang and Claw’ since then.

Perhaps one of the things that is as famous as his music career is Nugent’s private life. The musician mostly makes the headlines with his controversial conservative political views. In addition to this, he unapologetically supports gun ownership rights and hunting.

When his interesting opinions are combined with his successful music career, finding something unique about the musician’s life is almost inevitable. In fact, there was one time when Nugent gave his first two children for adoption and met them for the first timeafter four decades, thanks to his daughter. Let’s dive into this one-of-a-kind story together.

Ted Nugent Gave His Two Children Away

Ted Nugent has been married twice in his lifetime and currently has six children with four women. When he was a wild and young rock star, the musician had a son and a daughter with his then-girlfriend in the late 1960s before his first marriage.

Since he was a very young artist who couldn’t take care of a kid, Nugent gave up his children for adoption when they were firstborn. The siblings were adopted separately and had no contact with one another. Furthermore, they didn’t know anything about their father and each other until 2010.

In one of his articles, Nugent looked back on those times and said he didn’t want to give away his baby, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent. However, he and his girlfriend knew they weren’t ready for parenting. After their break up, the rocker kept thinking about his kids but preferred to stay away from their lives.

Recalling those days, Nugent penned:

“My girlfriend was at the hotel with our brand new son, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent, and we both knew that we were not ready to raise a child, so we reluctantly handed off this beautiful baby to a Catholic adoption agency, certain we were doing the right thing.

Life blazed on, and his mother and I drifted apart as teenage lovers are wont to do, but I never stopped thinking about little Fleetwood throughout the very intense adventure that my amazing career provided. The adoption papers were sealed, so the last thing I wanted to do was intervene and possibly disrupt the life Fleetwood was living with his new family.”

The entire situation wasn’t made public until 2010 when Nugent’s daughter Louisa found out about her biological father and requested to contact him. The following story is incredibly touching as both children, who are now grown-ups, found out that their father is a rock star.

Ted Nugent Met His Son After 42 Years

A New York restaurant owner who was adopted as an infant was shocked when he discovered that his biological father is Ted Nugent. When Nugent’s daughter found out about him through the adoption agency, she also found his brother and wanted to see her biological family. Thus, one day, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent got an unexpected phone call from a sister he never knew he had.

The two siblings reached out to Ted Nugent, who also penned this emotional experience in his article. On Theodore’s 42nd birthday, they got together for the first time, which was a heartfelt and incredibly happy reunion, according to Nugent. The rocker stated that his children were raised by great families who turned them into amazing Americans.

In his article, Nugent wrote:

“Well, long story short, on October 28, 2010, on his 42nd birthday, the planets aligned, and with the help of his sister Louisa (another amazing story unto itself) the three of us met together for the very 1st time since his birth, and what a wonderful, glorious, emotional and incredibly happy reunion it was!

Both Fleetwood and Louisa were raised by wonderful, loving families, and the fact that they both grew into great Americans is testimony to the love of adopted families.”

Since then, Ted Nugent has been close with his two children. He even recently celebrated his son’s 53rd birthday, saying he’s loved by everybody around him. It appears that their touching reunion over a decade ago bonded the father and son for the rest of their lives.

How To Certify a State Record Freshwater Fish

1. The angler must have a valid Florida freshwater fishing license or be exempt pursuant to s. 379.353, F.S.
2. The fish must be caught legally using an active hook-and-line method (bush hooks, snatch hooks, set lines, trotlines, etc. are excluded) in fresh waters of Florida.
3. If possible, keep the fish alive. If it is not possible to keep the fish alive, place it in ice water. Avoid freezing the fish because it will dehydrate causing it to lose weight. More information on how to handle and care for fish can be found at: https://www.trophycatchflorida.com/trophycare.aspx
4. Before contacting the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission (FWC), weigh the fish to determine if a possible state record exists and if possible, take a photograph of the fish on a scale with the weight clearly visible.
5. Make arrangements with the FWC to have the fish species certified by an FWC fisheries biologist, and to have an FWC employee witness the official weighing, on a certified scale and take measurements. When certifying the fish species as a largemouth bass, an FWC fisheries biologist does not have to be physically present, and the species can be certified by photograph or video, so long as an FWC employee witnesses official weighing and documentation.

FWC Regional Offices:

Northwest Region (850) 265-3676Northeast Region (352) 732-1225North Central Region (386) 758-0525Southwest Region (863) 648-3200South Region (561) 625-5122

1. Fill out a Freshwater State Record Fish application and have the application signed by an FWC fisheries biologist. Applications can be obtained from local FWC offices or on the internet at www.MyFWC.com/fishing.
2. Mail the completed application to: Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission, Record Fish Program, 620 South Meridian Street, Tallahassee, FL 32399-1600.

Measurement Standards

1. Measure the fish’s total length and girth to the nearest one-quarter inch. Total length is measured with the mouth closed and tail fin pinched together. Girth is the measurement around the widest part of the fish (see illustration).
2. Weight shall be determined on a scale certified by the Florida Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services. A certified scale must meet the requirements of the National Institute of Standards and Technology and is approved by the National Type Evaluation Program. Weighing shall be done by an FWC employee and recorded to two decimal places.
3. To replace an existing record, versus tying one, the weight difference must EXCEED the following: (i) nearest one-quarter ounce (0.02 pounds) for fish up to five pounds, (ii) to the nearest one-half ounce (0.03 pounds) for fish more than five pounds and up to 10 pounds, and (iii) to the nearest one ounce (0.06 pounds) for fish more than 10 pounds.

If your fish does not qualify as a state record, the Big Catch Angler Recognition Program rewards anglers who catch a memorable-sized fish. Qualifying anglers receive a colorful citation showing the type of fish caught and a window sticker to proudly display their prowess. To qualify, the fish must be legally caught and exceed the specified minimum length or weight. The catch must be witnessed, and a Big Catch form completed. Details can be found on applications available at many tackle stores, FWC offices, in the Freshwater Regulations Summary, or on the internet at http://bigcatchflorida.com.

More information is provided about the various species on our Freshwater Fishes of Florida pages.

* Uncertified record. Strong evidence exists, but not all the reporting requirements were met.** Following genetic and other analyses, it is now believed that redeye bass do not exist in Florida. This record was certified prior to those studies being conducted.

When I think of skinning a bear, I’m reminded of one of my favorite hunts with my son in Montana. When he was only 12 years old, he took down a bear with his rifle using the “spot and stalk” method.

Getting within range of those bears and taking the shot is a big challenge. I’m proud of my son for accomplishing that Herculean task, and even prouder of how we skinned that bear together after it was taken down.

Skinning a bear is no easy feat. It takes precision, concentration, and strategy. Don’t worry – we’ve been there and can explain how to do it, step by step.

What to Know Before Skinning a Bear

Skinning a bear is very different from dressing other game. A bear’s anatomy poses certain challenges that all hunters should be aware of. For the purposes of this blog, we’ll focus on how to skin a black bear; however, the following tips also apply to brown bears.

If you’re planning to bring your bear to a taxidermist (or even if you aren’t), it’s important to keep the bear in the best possible condition. The paws are a bear’s most distinguishing feature and must be left on the hide. If you’re a beginner, do not try to skin out the paws yourself — your taxidermist will thank you.

Speaking of the hide, it also needs to be preserved as well as possible. Avoid poking holes in it and ensure it’s clean before delivering it to the taxidermist. This will increase the chances of successful tanning.

How to Prepare to Skin a Bear

Be aware of what you’ll need to deliver to the taxidermist. As mentioned, don’t try to skin out the paws on your own; deliver them attached to the hide.

Next, you must know how to field dress a bear. Game bags are crucial for keeping the meat clean and organized, so be sure to have them at the ready. Clear your surrounding area and drag the bear to a clean spot, keeping dirt off the hide.

Place the bear on pine needles, leaves, or grass to maintain cleanliness. Open garbage bags also help preserve the meat. If it’s hot, move the bear to a shaded area to rapidly cool the hide and carcass.

Along with game and garbage bags, a reliable fixed-blade knife is a must-have. Additionally, carrying some paracord can be useful, especially if you’re on your own and need to secure a leg while you’re skinning a bear.

You won’t need a saw for this job. Your fixed-blade knife can handle everything you need.

How to Skin a Black Bear: Step by Step

Let’s get to the meat of this blog post (pun intended). Here’s how to skin a bear:

1. Lay the bear on its back with its legs spread out (it should resemble a starfish).
2. Once the bear is situated, make a center cut from the anus straight through the bear’s belly to the base of the neck. Then, on the inside portion of the front legs, make a cut from the joint (of the wrist) near the foot up to the armpit area, angling up and forward into the center of the sternum.
3. On the inside of its back legs, cut from the foot joint to the centerline cut you made in step 2.
4. Next, you’ll begin to skin out the front and back quarters. Start on one side of the bear, then move to the other and put it in a game bag.
5. While skinning the legs, cut the joint just above the foot to keep the paw attached to the hide. Then remove that skin from that leg with the paw still attached. Remember, it’s important to keep the paws attached when skinning a bear for a rug or other taxidermy.
6. From that point, skin the hide away from the rest of the carcass, being careful to keep dirt off the hide.
7. Finally, cut through the neck at the base of the skull and remove the bear head from the carcass, but keep it attached to hide.

Common Mistakes to Avoid When Skinning a Bear

Resist the temptation to skin the head and paws separately. I cannot emphasize enough that they must stay attached to the hide.

Also, refrain from folding the meat and hide before they completely cool. Hair is a great insulator; it’ll spoil the meat on the inside, and cause hair to fall out of the hide.

Don’t leave too much fat on the hide while skinning a bear. Removing as much fat as possible reduces packing weight. Be careful while you do this — avoid cuts in the hide as well as you can.

Most importantly, only salt the hide after removing all the flesh, as it will make proper mounting nearly impossible.

The post-skinning process is pretty simple: Cool the animal down and get it to your taxidermist as soon as possible. Freezing or storing it in a cooler or on ice in a garbage bag provides optimal conditions for the taxidermist.

How to Skin a Bear: Final Thoughts

Like anything, learning how to skin a bear takes repetition and time. I’ve definitely improved my process since I became a master bladesmith years ago.

Even if you’ve been skinning bears for years, there’s always room to improve, so we encourage you to save this post for future reference. Following these steps and avoiding common mistakes will make a big difference in your skinning practice.

by Josh Smith, Master Bladesmith and Founder of Montana Knife Company