The PSA Dagger vs. Glock 19 – this has to be one of the most hotly debated choices for a reliable sidearm in the firearm community.

Both offer a unique blend of reliability and functionality, leaving enthusiasts in a quandary over which to pick for their primary choice of protection.

What we hope to do here is delve deep into the features, handling, and performance of the PSA Dagger vs Glock 19 Gen 5 and provide a detailed comparison. By the end of this analysis, we think you’ll have a better understanding for making an informed decision.

We’ll use a Glock 19 Gen 5 slide on a Gen 5 gun for comparison as both the Palmetto State Dagger and the Gen 5 are modern options available to buyers.

So, stay tuned as we dive into the specifics and all the gritty details of the Glock 19 vs PSA Dagger battle.

INITIAL COMPARISON OF THE PSA DAGGER VS GLOCK 19

The PSA Dagger Full Size and the Glock 19 are two 9mm striker-fired handguns that have many similarities in terms of dimensions and features. However, there are some notable differences between them. For instance, the PSA Dagger has a slightly shorter barrel length of 4 inches compared to the Glock 19’s 4.02 inches.

Additionally, the Dagger Full Size S model has a magazine capacity of 17 rounds, while the Glock 19 can hold up to 15 rounds. Furthermore, the PSA Dagger is compatible with most Gen3 Glock spare parts, which offers a wide range of aftermarket customization options.

When it comes to ergonomics, the PSA Dagger sets itself apart with a distinct grip shape and texture, setting it apart from the Glock 19. The grip is enhanced compared to the Gen 3, and there are no back straps. It also has a carry cut out, allowing you to strip the magazine without any issues.

This model is perfect for those who prefer a simple design and want to run their trigger finger in front of the trigger guard.

THE TRIGGER SKUTTLEBUTT

By reputation, everyone has told me that the trigger mechanism is the biggest difference between these two, with the Dagger featuring a hinged trigger similar to the M&P. There is also a cut-out for the magazine release, just like the old Gen 3. It has an accessory rail and wavy cuts in the front that are basically there, I believe, to make it look cool.

The PSA Dagger is widely recognized as a more budget-friendly option, offering a lower price point compared to the Glock 19. Overall, both handguns are reliable and well-suited for various shooting scenarios, with the PSA Dagger generally considered to be a reliable and affordable alternative to the Glock 19.

Here’s a breakdown comparison between the specs of the Glock 19 vs PSA Dagger:

PSA Dagger Full-Size S

Glock 19

Caliber

9x19mm (9mm Luger)

9x19mm (9mm Luger)

Action

Safe Action®

Safe Action®

Weight (empy mag)

22.5 oz

21.52 oz

Overall Width

1.28 inch

1.34 inch

Overall Length

7.15 inch

7.28 inch

Barrel Length

4.5 inch

4.02 inch

Magazine

Double stack

Double stack

Mag Capacity

17+1 rounds (standard mag)

15+1 rounds (standard mag)

MSRP $299.99

$539.99

PSA DAGGER VS GLOCK 19 – OUR TAKE

FINGER GROVE AND BEAVERTAIL

There is one feature on the PSA gun that I was not a fan of right away. The finger groove here is similar to older Glock models but was revised for the Gen 5. It has a slightly enhanced texture compared to the Gen 3, but in my opinion, it’s not as good as the Gen 5. On the other hand, I do appreciate the extended beavertail.

SLIDES AND CONTROLS

The gun also has standard Glock controls and takedown, as well as a slide lock (although it’s not technically meant to be used as a release). There are some wavy cuts in the front that are mainly aesthetic but can be used as a sort of gas pedal, although they’re not big enough for proper use.

Personally, I’d prefer if these cuts were deeper and more functional, like on some other gun models or customizations from companies like Agency Arms. Nonetheless, the slide itself is quite nice, with a tri-top design that I am a big fan of. In fact, I think it looks better than the stock Gen 5 slide.

The Dagger has a stainless steel guide rod, which I think is actually a big improvement upon the standard Glock plastic guide rod – it’s a little more durable, and I do like that it adds a little weight out front, reducing muzzle flip overall.

PERFORMANCE

During our testing, we fired two thousand rounds through the gun and found it to be highly reliable. There were no malfunctions during the entire duration of the test, which is exactly what we expected from one of the most reliable guns in the world.

We used various types of ammunition, including Phoenix Ring, Fiocchi, Winchester White Box, and 124-grain Gold Dot, as well as Critical Duty, and all of them worked exceptionally well.

MAGAZINE

We used the magazine that came with the gun, which was a Magpul magazine, as well as the standard Gen 5 Glock 19 and Glock 17 magazines, as well as extended magazines, and there were no malfunctions whatsoever.

This is particularly important since magazine compatibility is crucial for a gun’s reliability. This clone comes with one magazine included in the package – not surprising for the money. However, the standard Gen Five product comes with three magazines, which, in my opinion, is a better deal as more magazines are typically better.

In the final analysis, the accuracy of the Palmetto State Dagger is alright, but the standard Gen Fives are more accurate – the main reason being is that they have a better trigger.

TRIGGER

I personally am not that crazy about the Palmetto State Dagger trigger at all – it’s heavy, has a lot of creep and take up, and an awkward reset. The good news is that it takes Gen Three parts, so you can upgrade it with those new sweet old chimneys if you choose to. If you were going to keep this gun, that’s what I would suggest you do.

The big white combat sights are simplistic and durable up close. However, they are only slightly better than the lower-end sights on the market – so not that good. You can buy Gen 5 Glocks that have Ameriglo sights, which I would highly recommend.

SIGHTS

The Glock 19 sights are significantly better, with a slightly wider box that allows for quicker site acquisition up close, a thinner front sight that is high definition, and night sights with a tritium insert on the front sight. This allows you to use the sights at night, which is important for your safety.

I like the fact that the Gen 5s have this option, but they obviously cost more. If you want, you can buy these sights for $60 and put them in your PSA since they are compatible with Glock parts. Out of the box, I don’t like the accuracy of the Dagger sights, but it can be improved.

ACCURACY

In reviews, people often talk about mechanical accuracy, which I find amusing because handguns are difficult to shoot due to fewer points of contact and a five-pound trigger in a one-pound gun. This makes it challenging to shoot accurately, period.

Therefore, any accuracy issues are likely due to the interface and ergonomics of the gun. Primarily, it’s better to discuss the sights and the trigger. To be clear, the mechanical accuracy may be comparable to a standard Glock, but to achieve the same level of accuracy from it, you may have to address the trigger and sights issue.

ERGONOMICS

Moving on to the ergonomics, I think there are a lot of really good ergonomic features going on with the Palmetto State Dagger. Firstly, I love the tri-top slide; it looks very cool.

Additionally, the slide serrations are very usable and actually more effective than the Gen 5 Glock. The rear serrations work very well, too, and the finish on the gun is shiny and attractive, although it might not be quite as durable as the Gen 5.

HOLSTER COMPATIBILITY

While Glock clones such as the PSA Dagger mimic Glock designs closely, slight variations in sizes between the Glock and its clones can pose challenges when it comes to holster compatibility. These minute differences can affect the secure fit of the weapon, which is crucial for safety, accessibility, and comfort.

Therefore, having a specifically designed Glock 19 holster or a PSA Dagger holster is not merely an option but a necessity. It ensures that your firearm is held as securely as possible, enabling the best draw capability and reducing the risk of accidental discharges while improving ease of access when needed.

Conclusion: PSA DAGGER VS GLOCK 19 – THE BOTTOM LINE

Looking at the final score, it’s clear why both the Glock 19 and the PSA Dagger have firmly established their reputation in the firearm market – each has its own distinctive advantages.

Our comprehensive testing and rigorous evaluation of the PSA Dagger only reaffirmed its reliability and performance. While the Glock 19 continues to dominate as a reliable staple in the world of handguns, the introduction of more budget-friendly options like the PSA Dagger is certainly a welcome addition; especially beneficial for novices in the world of firearms who might be hesitant to spend a significant amount upfront.

The bottom line: prices and availability of firearms can fluctuate quite a bit. There was a time not that long ago when the PSA wasn’t readily available, and prices went up to over $450 apiece. In a case like that, why settle for the limitations of the PSA Dagger when you can go for the true original by spending a little more?

Having said that, anyone choosing to go for the PSA Dagger is not likely to be disappointed, especially if they can take the savings and put them towards some fine extras they wouldn’t normally be able to afford. In our opinion, both are fine weapons, which make the PSA worth your consideration.

Ultimately, the choice of firearm is a deeply personal decision, but one common factor remains – the necessity for a secure, well-fitted holster. A custom-made Craft Holster, be it IWB (Inside the Waistband) or OWB (Outside the Waistband), can be the perfect complement to your chosen firearm, enhancing safety, accessibility and your overall shooting experience.

DO YOU FANCY SOME MORE LIGHT READING? THEN CARRY ON WITH THESE ARTICLES

Glock 19 Review – The Best 9mm Pistol Ever Produced?

PSA Dagger Review: Is This Glock Clone Worth It?

Exploring PSA Dagger Problems: A Candid Look at Performance and Functionality

We often get asked questions about silencers, such as how to buy a silencer or how to clean a silencer, that experienced users deem simple but are important questions for new gun and silencer owners. Thanks to misrepresentation in the media and politics about silencers, muzzle brakes, flash hiders, suppressor accessories, and even the simple act of barrel threading, it’s only logical that there is some confusion out there.

So, we are going to look at the various things you can screw onto the end of your rifle or pistol’s muzzle, what they do and how they work. If you already know this, great! Share this post to a new gun owner, or even an anti-gunner who has been left behind through media propaganda. And if you don’t know, read on!

Silencers and Suppressors: One in the Same

There is no difference between a silencer and a suppressor, and the terms are 100 percent interchangeable. Whether someone uses the term “suppressor” or “silencer,” they’re referencing the exact same thing. So why the different names, you might ask? Well, we must go back to the very beginning, with the invention of the Maxim Silencer. Invented by Hiram Percy Maxim, son of the famous machine gun inventor, the Maxim Silencer was patented in 1909 and was the first successful silencer on the market.

Now, truth in advertising laws were lax to nonexistent back then and breathtaking claims were the order of the day. Maxim advertised that his crude device made of stamped sheet metal baffles stacked inside a steel tube would render a firearm silent. This is pretty much impossible, even today unless you use a highly engineered device with carefully crafted subsonic ammo or low powered rimfire ammo.

In other words, a silencer isn’t exactly a “silencer.” It’s more like a muffler (which Maxim went on to develop for cars) or a device for suppressing sound. You know, a suppressor.

However, the name “silencer” stuck. Later on, shooters and manufacturers promoted the more accurate “suppressor” to reflect the reality of these devices.

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Silencer vs. Suppressor – Does It Matter What You Call Them?

Probably not. After all, we are Silencer Central, and we sell the famous BANISH Suppressor, which shows how interchangeable the terms really are. But because the term “silencer” is so heavily ingrained in modern usage, it is as viable a term as “suppressor.” The difference between a silencer and a suppressor? Absolutely none.

Perhaps the only real problem now is that with two competing popular terms, folks can get confused — and that’s understandable. After all, the two really do sound like similar but different devices. But rest assured, there’s no difference and you can call a silencer a suppressor, or a suppressor a silencer. It’s completely up to you.

Now that we’ve cleared up the gun suppressor vs silencer question, let’s look at another area of confusion…

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Flash Suppressor vs Silencer

If suppressors are silencers, then are flash suppressors also silencers? Well, no they aren’t. While both devices are designed to suppress aspects of muzzle gas, they do two radically different things.

What is a Flash Hider?

A sound suppressor works only on slowing down and cooling gas to reduce the sound of gunfire. A flash suppressor (or flash hider) works to reduce the visibility of flaming gas. While it’s true that a sound suppressor also reduces (or eliminates) muzzle flash, it’s a side effect of the gas containment. A flash suppressor, on the other hand, offers no sound reduction.

Flash suppressors are intended for the benefit of the person shooting the gun and reduce or almost eliminate the visual flame from a barrel under low light conditions. This makes it easier to see and is invaluable for self-defense situations and when hunting in low light conditions.

How Does a Flash Hider Work?

There are various sorts of flash suppressors on the market today that work in a number of different ways. Some are little more than cones or cans that contain and disperse the flaming gasses at the muzzle long enough for them to burn off or cool down. Others redirect the gas and flame in order to drive it away from the shooter’s field of vision.

Many flash suppressors are combined with muzzle brakes, which also redirect gas energy to reduce recoil. It only makes sense to combine the two products in that fashion, but not all flash suppressors are muzzle brakes, and not all muzzle brakes are flash suppressors. Confused? Don’t worry, we have a full article covering muzzle brakes vs. flash suppressors.

Why Are Flash Suppressors Regulated in Some States?

That’s a good question. The simple answer is fear and moral panic. Some people believe the purpose of a flash suppressor is to hide the gun and make it stealthier in use. Other people think that anything that makes a gun easier, more ergonomic or more comfortable to shoot somehow means the gun will magically kill people and be used in a crime. These misconceptions are often deliberately promoted by media and anti-gun crusaders, and sometimes reshape how the general public understands guns.

States like California which have an aversion to civil rights are busy making sure law-abiding citizens can’t reduce a bit of visual flash on the end of their self-defense pistol, hunting rifle or sporting carbine. This is simply because they think a bit of metal with notches cut in it or a metal cone turns a rifle into an assault rifle of some sort. There is no rational reason to regulate these very common devices, save for the desire to attack our gun rights and shared freedom.

Silencers vs. Suppressors vs. Flash Suppressors

Gun silencers and suppressors are two terms the same thing with each name born out of a different era in American history and marketing. They can be and are used interchangeably without affecting the meaning.

However, flash suppressors and sound suppressors are radically different devices doing different things, although a sound suppressor combines both functions due to the nature of how it operates. Hopefully, this clears up some confusion on seemingly identical and sometimes conflicting sounding terms.

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Want to learn more about silencers? Visit our products page and look over our line of suppressors.

Feel free to give us a call at 888.781.8778 or email [email protected] to learn which one is best for you and how to buy it.

There is beauty in simplicity and the traditional soft-hackle wet fly is quite simply, beautiful. In its bareness, in the liveliness of its soft hackle fibers it suggests all that seems necessary to tempt fish. Because of its simplicity it’s also one of the easiest flies to tie—and often one of the deadliest.

Also called a Hackle Fly, North Country Fly, Stewart Spider, or Yorkshire Spider, these flies were first mentioned in Dame Juliana Berners’ 1496 Treatise of Fishing with an Angle. Likely their history extends even farther back than that. But it wasn’t until Sylvester Nemes’ 1975 The Soft-Hackled Fly that they began to receive the attention they deserve in the United States, and became known in general as “soft-hackle” flies. (Incidentally, The Soft Hackled Fly was updated in 2006 as The Soft-Hackled Fly and Tiny Soft Hackles; I highly recommend both the original book and the update for their history, fly patterns, and ideas.)

The most basic version of the soft-hackle fly consists of a hook shank wrapped with thread, floss, or peacock herl and a hackle (partridge, grouse, hen or some other soft-hackled bird) wound around the forward part of the shank. Here the hackle suggests the legs or emergent wings of various insects such as caddis or mayflies. Slightly more elaborate versions include a small thorax of dubbed fur just behind the hackle. Others —often more specifically imitative of a mayfly nymph—will sport a tail and perhaps a body of dubbed fur, in which case the fly is often referred to as a soft-hackle nymph or “flymph,” a type popularized by Leisenring and Hidy. However you tie it, the soft hackle wet fly deserves an honored place in your fly box.

I first began tying these flies as a teenager in the 1950s after reading an article by Ray Bergman in Outdoor Life magazine titled Basic Wet Flies for Trout Fishing. They weren’t called “soft-hackle wet flies” back then, just “hackle flies.” Among my favorites were the Gray Hackle and Peacock and the Orange Fish Hawk, both tied with soft grizzly hen hackle on a #12 or #14 hook. Both were well-suited to the small skills of a beginning tyer and fly fisherman. Another favorite—one not found in Bergman—was one I called a Gray Pigeon (or sometimes a Flipper Fly). This pattern was hackled with a soft iridescent gray-blue feather taken from the neck area of a common pigeon with a body of soft gray fur clipped from the stomach of my old cat Flipper (who also supplied me with the pigeon).

I caught a lot of trout on these patterns but somewhere along the way, as my fly-tying skills became more developed and my flyfishing more sophisticated, I became interested in flies that more exactly imitated the insects in the streams I fished, flies that demanded more skill in both tying and fishing. I began to fill my fly boxes with more complicated patterns, relegating simpler flies to boxes that I rarely looked into. Eventually they became forgotten flies, rusting away and eaten by moths

Then in the mid-70s my interests began to shift back to simpler, more impressionistic patterns; flies that suggested insects or baitfish in general, flies tied with soft fibers that would move in the current like a living insect or baitfish. It was at this time that I tied the first Sparrow and other flies utilizing the soft aftershaft feathers found on a pheasant; also the Soft Hackle Streamer which (when you look at it closely) is simply a traditional soft hackle wet fly tied with a much longer marabou hackle thus allowing it to suggest a baitfish. About this time that I became friends with Sylvester Nemes, whose book rekindled my interest in the traditional soft-hackle wet fly. Since then I always carry a selection of traditional (and some not-so-traditional) soft-hackle wet flies with me wherever I fish.

Following the tying instructions given below I’ve listed some of my favorite soft-hackle patterns. While most of them are tied with partridge feathers, you can tie a whole range of soft-hackle wet flies using grouse, pheasant, woodcock, snipe, starling, grackle, sparrow, common hen in various colors, and, yes, even pigeon. For exceptionally soft-hackled flies, especially in the smaller sizes (#16-20), you might also want to tie some using the aftershaft feathers attached to the main body feathers of most of these birds; these mostly dun-colored feathers are the softest of the soft hackles and should not be overlooked by the tyer. They are very effective, especially in slower-moving or still water, where they are most productive. The ultra-soft and heavily-barbuled feathers found around the anus of most roosters and hens are also quite useful, especially grizzly; I refer to this feather often as a CPF (chicken-poop) feather throughout my web site.

Hook Selection

The soft-hackle wet fly is usually tied on wet fly hooks (any shape, model, and size you like) because it is usually most effective fished just under the surface. You may, however, tie it on lighter-wire dry-fly hooks to fish it in the surface film, perhaps as a drowned nymph that didn’t quite make it. A general rule for determining which hook to use is this: If you want the fly to imitate a caddis, tie it on a regular or short-shank hook without a tail; if you want it to imitate a mayfly, tie it on a regular or long-shank hook and add a tail.

While it’s most often used for trout, soft-hackle wet fly is also a fine steelhead and salmon fly, especially in heavily-fished waters or when the water is low. For a deeper, faster-sinking fly, use a 2x heavy wire hook or weight the fly with a copper wire or lead-wrapped body. Some anglers even tie it with a bead-head. Its effectiveness is not limited to fresh water either — it’s a productive bonefish fly, especially in smaller sizes (#8-#10).

Fishing the Soft-Hackle Wet Fly

Probably the most common way to fish a soft-hackle wet fly is to cast it across and slightly downstream, letting it sink and then swing in the current, rising with the tightening line much as a natural rises to the surface before hatching. It’s on this rise that fish usually strike. Another productive method is to cast the fly upstream on a short cast and then let it dead-drift back to you just under the surface (or, if tied on a light-wire hook, in the surface film). On lakes and ponds a soft hackle fly cast in front of a cruising trout and then twitched slightly can be absolutely deadly. Many soft-hackle fly anglers, especially in Europe, favor fishing two or three of these flies (of different colors and sizes) at a time.

And now it’s time to tie.

Tying the The Partridge & Olive

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, sizes 10-18

Thread:

6/0 Olive or size A flat nylon

Body:

Olive thread or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Soft Hackle Wets

Here are some of my favorite soft-hackle wet flies that you might want to tie up and try next time you’re on the stream. All are tied in the manner described above.

The Partridge & Chartreuse

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 fluorescent chartreuse or size A flat nylon

Body:

Fluorescent chartreuse thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Fluorescent chartreuse thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Partridge & Orange

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 orange or size A flat nylon

Body:

Orange thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Orange thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Partridge & Yellow

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 yellow or size A flat nylon

Body:

Yellow thread or floss or size A flat nylon

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Yellow thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

The Pheasant & Black

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0, black

Body:

Black thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Black fur dubbing

Hackle:

Iridescent black ringneck pheasant feather taken from head or lower neck of pheasant

Head:

Black fur dubbing or thread

Brown Hackle, Peacock

Hook:

Daiichi 1150, 1550, Mustad 8100BR, Tiemco 3769, or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0, black

Tag:

Gold wire, optional

Body:

Peacock herl

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

None

Hackle:

Brown mottled hen or grouse

Head:

Black

Aftershaft Soft Hackle Wet Fly

Hook:

Daiichi 1140, 1150, 1550,1640 Tiemco 2487, or any hook that you prefer, #14-20

Thread:

6/0, olive, orange, yellow, black, rust

Tag:

Gold wire, optional

Body:

Olive, orange, yellow, black, or rust thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

None

Hackle:

Aftershaft feather from partridge, pheasant (hen or cock), grouse

Head:

Olive, orange, yellow, black, or rust thread

Soft Hackle Nymphs

These flies differ from the above soft-hackle wet flies in that they’re most often tied on a 1xl or 2xl hook, with a tail and with a body and thorax of fur, to imitate an emerging mayfly nymph. To imitate a caddis, simply tie the same fly on a regular or a shorter-shanked hook and omit the tail. These patterns may be varied, of course, to match more closely the sizes and colors of insects found on your local waters.

Partridge & Hare’s Ear

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0 olive

Body:

Olive thread

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Olive thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

Partridge & Muskrat

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 gray

Tail:

Partridge

Body:

Blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Gray thread or blue-dun gray muskrat body fur

Partridge & Red Squirrel (Hendrickson Nymph)

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12-16

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers or wood duck

Body:

Red squirrel fur (from the back of the squirrel, to include predominantly rust-red hairs)

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Red squirrel fur

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or dubbed red squirrel fur

Soft Hackle March Brown Nymph

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #12, 14

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers

Body:

Red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or red squirrel fur mixed with amber fur dubbing

Soft Hackle Pheasant Tail Nymph

Hook:

Daiichi 1710, 1280, 1640, Mustad 9671, TMC 3769, 5262 or any hook that you prefer, #14, #16

Thread:

6/0 rust or brown

Tail:

Pheasant tail fibers (three or four)

Body:

Pheasant tail fibers wound over hook shank

Ribbing:

Gold wire, optional

Thorax:

Hare’s Ear or gray squirrel blend

Hackle:

Hungarian Partridge

Head:

Rust or brown thread or dubbed hare’s ear or gray squirrel

Turkey hunting was one of our favorite pastimes and we used to spend a ridiculous amount of time and energy simply getting ready for the hunting season to finally open. When it did, we would bundle up and head out in search of the perfect tom to dress our table. While we don’t get to go out too often anymore, we still highly recommend it.

In Ohio (as with many states) bag limits for wild turkey are ridiculously small, making this once-common game bird a delicacy each season. Even though this delicious meal is something we don’t get to eat every day, knowing the health benefits, nutrition, and safe handling of wild turkey meat is good information that might even make your next delicious roasted wild turkey taste better than it already does.

Just the Facts: Wild Turkey Meat vs Domestic Turkey

Wild turkeys feast on a varied diet that includes anything from seeds, acorns, and nuts to lizards, snails, and worms. This might not sound like the most appetizing feast to you and me, but for a turkey, the wild ones eat the best. Domestic turkey feed simply attempts to recreate the menu of wild turkey. The differences in diet are similar to what you find when looking at the nutrition of wild hogs vs domestic ones.

The biggest difference between wild turkey meat and domestic birds is in the fat content. Wild turkeys spend most of their lives moving from one place to another, flying up to roost in trees at night and avoid inevitable predators, giving these birds a more lean meat.

While domestic turkeys technically have more protein due to their controlled diet, they are also much higher in fat content because they don’t get as much exercise as their wild cousins.

According to the United States Department of Agriculture, 100 grams of turkey breast meat contains 29 grams of protein and 7 grams of fat. The same portion of wild turkey breasts offers 25 grams of protein but just 1 gram of fat. Darker meat from thighs and legs has even less fat but slightly less protein.

Both wild turkey meat and domestic turkey meat contain many important vitamins and nutrients so don’t worry about whether or not wild turkey is good for you. It’s more important to focus on learning the optimal way to cook the perfect wild turkey.

Best Ways to Cook Wild Turkey

Here is a little secret – one of the main reasons that wild turkey and regular turkey taste different is because of how they are cooked. Domestic turkey that you buy in the store is typically injected with salt water which adds weight and increases the juiciness, helping to prevent the finished bird from being too dry. Wild turkey, already significantly lower in fat, doesn’t have the benefit of brine injection and tends to dry out easily.

With that in mind, you will want to adjust how you cook wild turkey to get the best results. When done right, wild turkey is the most delicious of game birds.

The key to properly cooking wild turkey starts from the moment you kill the bird. It is important to field dress the bird as soon as possible. Start by removing the innards and crop. Don’t forget to remove the gland at the base of the tail while you are at it. Pluck the feathers while the bird is still warm. You’ll use short, swift tugs to remove the feathers a few at a time. If you wait until the bird has cooled, you’ll likely end up tearing the skin quite a bit and that is simply a waste. Thoroughly wash and dry the bird before putting it in the refrigerator. Like any game animal, you want to complete this process and get it in the cooler as quickly as possible.

Brining wild turkey is one common method to help prevent the bird from drying out while cooking. Brine allows you to add herbs and flavors that enhance the finished flavor. Cooking an unbrined wild turkey is a bit of a challenge, but the results are awesome. The trick is to use plenty of butter or olive oil to prevent drying out. As a bonus, butter and olive oil will help wild turkey taste good and finish tender. Make sure to check out our favorite brine recipe for smoked turkey.

Wild turkey can also be done in a slow cooker to help improve juiciness. It isn’t our favorite way to do it, but using a slow cooker will give you predictable results, especially when cooking wild turkey breast or skinny birds with strong muscles that taste dry.

No matter the cooking method you use when cooking turkey, you’ll need to aim for an internal temperature of at least 165 degrees. Take the measurement in the thickest part of the thighs. It is often best to separate the breasts from the whole bird when cooking because they will cook faster than other parts and can dry out. The cooking process you use should be carefully monitored to prevent overcooking.

What Does Wild Turkey Taste Like?

You are likely to hear lots of people tell you that wild turkey tastes nothing like store-bought birds. They are right, but that also doesn’t tell you much about what wild turkey actually tastes like.

Think of it like this – wild turkey tastes more like turkey gravy, whereas store-bought turkey tastes like a package of sliced turkey breast on sale at the grocery store.

Wild birds aren’t necessarily gamey like many types of wild meat, but it also depends on what the birds are eating.

Fall turkey and spring turkey also don’t taste the same, but fall is the best time to bag a bird for Thanksgiving turkey.

Wild turkey breast meat is darker than domestic breast meat and has a lot more intense flavor, in part because of the lack of injected brine. Wings are bigger because of the birds’ powerful flight abilities and the unique taste is simply better than a store-bought bird.

Ready to Try It This Season?

The chance to eat wild turkey doesn’t come around all that often, so you should treat the chance with respect. Wild bird was once one of the most common things that Americans ate, but these days, strict limits make the chance to savor these delicious game birds a unique opportunity.

But we’d say it’s totally worth the time and effort spent preparing for the hunting season, scouting our favorite spots, and gearing up for the hunt. A properly cooked wild turkey is one of life’s simple gifts that we believe should be savored and appreciated.

If you manage to bag one, don’t forget to try out Scott’s classic maple chipotle turkey recipe.

Can you name all the parts of a compound bow?

Check out our interactive diagram below to test your knowledge!

You might be new to the sport of bowhunting and be looking to learn all you can about it.

Or, maybe you are a seasoned bowhunter wanting to test your knowledge.

Either, way this one’s for you!

In the interactive diagram below, you can click/touch the NUMBER of the parts in the chart below to reveal the names of each item. You can read more about what each part is and does in the sections below the diagram. See how many you can get right!

Interactive Parts of A Compound Bow Diagram

Compound Bow Parts | Piece-By-Piece

In the above diagram of the Nexus2 by Prime Archery, you can view the parts of a compound bow. Find out more about what each part does by clicking the words below:

1. Cams
2. Limb Dampeners
3. Limbs
4. Limb Pivot
5. Limb Pocket
6. Limb Bolt
7. Riser
8. Sight Mounts
9. Cable Guard
10. Rest Mounts
11. Arrow Shelf
12. Stabilizer Mount
13. Axle
14. String Splitter
15. Cables
16. String
17. Serving
18. Nocking Point
19. Grip
20. String Stop
21. Cable Splitter
22. Axle-To-Axle Length
23. Brace Height

1. Cams

On a compound bow, the cams are the round, or oval-shaped discs that work much like a block-and-tackle pulley system. The cams are connected to the axles of the bow.

The cams act as the “multiplier” of the energy of the person pulling the bow string. This allows the bow to store more energy than the person pulling the bow string is actually exerting.

The bow has a “back wall” where the cams will not turn any more. This is where the archer is at “full draw.” At this point, there is a percentage of “letoff” that allows the archer or hunter to hold the force of the bow at a fraction of the actual pounds of pull being exerted.

For example, a bow that is set to a 70-lb draw weight with a 70% letoff will only take 21 lbs of force to hold at full draw. The energy is stored in the bow’s limbs until the archer releases, which unleashes the multiplied energery, propelling the arrow toward its target.

So, the cams of the bow are what change the bow in essence from a traditional bow to a compound bow.

2. Limb Dampeners

Limb dampeners reduce the noise and vibration throughout the limbs and riser of the bow.

When the hunter or archer releases the arrow the sudden and powerful uncoiling of the string on the cams produces vibration, which causes noise. The limb dampeners help to absorb that vibration, resulting in a quieting of the bow.

This absorption by the limb dampeners is especially helpful in reducing noise when hunting deer or other wild game and also reduces the amount of vibration that is transferred to the archer.

3. Limbs

A compound bow’s limbs are connected to the riser and store the energy that is collected when the string is pulled and the cams turn. When the string is released, the energy from the limbs is transferred to the arrow, which propels it through the air.

Most compound bow limbs are made up of fiberglass or composite material. Some bow limbs are solid, one-piece limbs. Others are “split,” having a gap between both sides of the upper and lower limbs.

4. Limb Pivot

Where the limbs pivot and flex on the riser.

5. Limb Pocket

The limbs of the bow rest in the limb pocket. These can be made of machined aluminum, ABS plastic or other composite materials. The limbs of the bow are secured in the limb pocket by the limb bolts.

6. Limb Bolt

The limb bolt is the crucial piece in connecting the limb pockets, which hold the limbs of the bow, to the riser.

Limb bolts are typically allen wrenc adjustable. Tightening the limb bolts increases the draw weight poundage of the bow. Loosening the limb bolts will decrease the draw weight poundage.

It’s very important that any adjustment to the limb bolts be made in the same increments. If the adjustments are uneven, the bow’s cams could get out of time, causing an improper tune.

If you need to adjust your bow’s draw weight, it’s a good idea to back the limb bolts all the way down and then start moving them both up the same amount.

7. Riser

The riser is the vertical portion and foundation of a compound bow. The limbs attach to it and it also serves as the fastening point for accessories such as the sight, arrow rest, grip, stabilizer, quiver, etc.

8. Sight Mounts

Sight mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s sight. The archer will look through the peep on the bow string and at the pin(s) of the sight to aim at the target or game animal.

9. Cable Guard

The Cable guard runs perpendicular to the bow’s riser. It keeps the bow’s cable out of the way of the arrow’s line of fire. It typically has rollers and/or slides attached to it to aid in keeping the cable on track.

10. Rest Mounts

Rest mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s rest. The rest is what holds the arrow in place while the archer is drawing and releasing the arrow.

There are many different types of rests. Some use prongs that the arrow will rest on, while others hold the arrow up and then fall out of the way when the arrow is released. Others, called containment rests, completely surround the arrow until it is fired and typically have no moving parts.

11. Arrow Shelf

The arrow shelf is the area of the riser where the arrow sits on the rest. While the rest typically holds the arrow off the shelf on compound bows, traditional bows (non-compound) usually have the arrow resting directly on the arrow shelf.

12. Stabilizer Mount

The stabilizer mount is a universal size threaded hole in the riser that is used to attach a stabilizer to.

The stabilizer helps balance and thus “stabilize” the bow when drawing and shooting, and also typically has vibration dampening properties. In essence, it helps the bow resist movement during the draw cycle and when shooting.

The back of the stabilizer also typically serves as the fastening point for the wrist sling.

13. Axle

The Axle is what holds the cams, in the same way a car axle holds its wheels. The cams have a hole in the center. The axle goes through the center of the axle and attach to the limbs.

14. String Splitter

Bows with parallel limbs (which eliminate cam lean) will have a string splitter. On these types of bows, the main part of the string that the archer attaches the release to “splits” just before the cams.

The splitter is what essential turns the single string into two strings, each going around its respective cam.

15. Cables

The cable(s) runs between the bow’s cams. They assist in moving the cams of the bow when the string is pulled back by the archer. It’s important to replace your cable(s) as well as your string as recommended per the bow manufacturer’s instructions or on the advice of your local bow shop.

16. String

The string serves several functions. It is where the archer will connect their release. It is what the archer pulls (or draws) back and releases to launch the arrow.

Many archers will utilize a “D loop,” which attaches to the bow string and serves as a way to quickly attach the release to the string and also improves accuracy.

You should always inspect your string before and after shooting and hunting. A damaged string could end up being a broken string, which could result in serious injury to the shooter or others.

Any cuts or fraying should be addressed immediately and it is recommended that you take to your local bow shop for an assessment.

17. Serving

The “center serving” is coiled thread wrapped around the center portion of your string where you would nock an arrow and attach a D-loop. The center serving protect the center section of the string from wear and tear that results from nocking arrows as well as drawing and shooting the bow.

There is also serving material on areas of your bow string that go around the cams or through rollers that are attached to the cable guards. This helps the bow string stay together, especially in places that are likely to received the most friction.

18. Nocking Point

The nocking point is where the arrow, by way of the arrow nock, attaches to the bow string. The D-loop attaches above and below the nocking point.

19. Grip

The grip is the part of the bow that you hold while shooting. Grips are made of various materials such as wood, rubber, plastic, metal, etc.

The grip can also be a source of inaccuracy. For example, if you hold the grip too tightly, or twist the grip while shooting, you can cause your arrow to go off-course from where you were aiming.

20. String Stop

String vibration is a large cause for noise when a bow fires. A string stop helps dampen that vibration and thus reduces unwanted noise. The string stop is a rubber part that is often mounted on a post that is directly opposite of the front stabilizer.

The string stop not only helps dampen vibration, but also aids in better accuracy for the shooter, often resulting in tighter arrow groups at the target.

21. Cable Splitter

On some bows, the cable splitter is a ring that connects the cable to two separate cables, thus dampening vibration and noise of the cable during shooting.

22. Axle-To-Axle Length

“Axle-to-axle” is not a part of a compound bow, but rather a reference to measurement. Axle-to-axle is the measurement from the center of one cam to the other. The axles go through the center of the cams.

This axle-to-axle measurement is often used to determine how forgiving the bow will be in regards to arrow flight accuracy when taking farther shots.

A bow with a longer axle-to-axle height may be more forgiving that a shorter one, but may also be difficult to maneuver in tight-quarter hunting scenarios.

23. Brace Height

The “brace height” is not a part of the bow, but rather a measurement, in inches, of the distance between the “throat” of the grip to the center of the bow’s string.

A shorter brace height means a longer “power stroke,” which is the distance from the grip to the center of the string when the archer is at full draw. A longer power stroke typically means a faster bow, as it increases the amount of time that the arrow is attached to the string.

Parts Of A Compound Bow Conclusion

Whether you are just a beginner bowhunter or looking to brush up on your bow component knowledge, we hope this has been a helpful tool for you!

This time of year, my social media feeds begin filling with photos of huge, once-a-lifetime trophy bucks. Of course, few hunters ever have a chance at a record buck, but hunters should take solace knowing their odds of tagging a big buck are better in Louisiana than in most states.

Remember, Louisiana has everything it takes to build a trophy buck, including highly productive habitat, a diverse and well-developed gene pool and a culture of management-minded stewardship. By mid summer 2018, Johnathan Bordelon, the biologist over the Louisiana Deer Study, added 29 deer to the Louisiana Big Game Recognition Program.

“Bucks meeting the Louisiana Big Game Recognition minimum criteria are harvested across most of the state,” said Bordelon. “Of course, the productive habitat within the Mississippi Alluvial Valley produces more big bucks than other habitats in the state. Older age management is the driving force behind most of it. Louisiana continues to produce its fair share of 3.5 year and older bucks each season. In fact, when compared to the rest of the nation, Louisiana typically ranks in the top three each year in the percentage of 3.5-year and older.”

It is important to understand the framework of Louisiana’s Big Game Recognition Program and what constitutes a quality buck. The program documents white-tailed deer harvested within the state that meet or exceed minimum antler size. Yearly lists are published in early to mid-summer and the all-time list is updated and published every three years. However, since the recognition program is voluntary, there are likely a number of other deer in the state that have not been added to the roll.

MADISON PARISH — MICHAEL MAY

Michael May started bowhunting with a Ben Pearson Hunter recurve when he was 12 years old, which was over five decades ago. Of course, he has upgraded his bow since then, so the evening of Oct. 4 found him climbing into a stand with his Matthews compound.

The old growth timber he was hunting was located along the banks of one of Madison Parish’s larger lakes. Made up of bottomland hardwoods, his spot had little to no underbrush making it easy to see deer for a distance. Nearby, a regrown thicket provided lots of browse plants for the area deer.

With an easterly wind, May settled in to enjoy an evening hunt. Soon after the woods calmed down, several does approached his stand. Approximately 4:30 in the evening, motion in the distance caught his eye. Unbelievably, a large-antlered buck rose from his apparent bedding spot approximately 100 yards away. The deer began a long creep toward the does. For nearly an hour, the buck crept forward. Soon, the buck was at 40 yards, and still coming. Eventually, the buck paused 20 yards out, turned broadside and offered a shot. Jumping on the opportunity, May drew his bow, found the deer in his sight, and released an arrow. The deer dropped on the spot.

Weighing in at 190 pounds, the deer did not size up with his normally heavier cousins from the Parish, but the 6.5-year-old buck could still hold his own. With an inside spread of 15.5 inches, this dimension only adds a small part of the deer’s 186 5/8 inches.

“I was actually hunting a larger deer that frequented the area,” said May. “I put cameras out about a month before during the first week of September. I saw this deer on camera twice, the first time on Sept. 28, and again on Oct. 3 during daylight hours.”

CONCORDIA PARISH — LEE TIFFEE

The best part of the hunting tradition is the hunting stories that accompany it. Each hunt, whether it is successful or not, produces a story. According to Lee Tiffee, a 10-year-old deer hunter from Concordia Parish, the circumstances leading to his encounter with a buck serve to prove that when deer hunting, a hunter needs to be on the lookout at all times.

On December 26, Lee and his father, Tom, climbed their stand on a cold, rainy, afternoon hunt. A family friend accompanied the pair but peeled off about a hundred yards or so. Their stand is found behind their house and overlooks a food plot. The woods surrounding the food plot are enrolled in Wetland Reserve Program, providing thick cover and plenty of browse and bedding areas. If the rain would let up, both hunters thought it likely deer would be moving that evening. Watching the woodline for hours seems like a job reserved for older, more mature individuals, but Lee was ready to hunt this day. A few hours into the hunt, the younger Tiffee recalled seeing a deer appear out of nowhere.

“I looked out on the food plot and saw deer,” said Lee. “It was a cull buck that had a spike antler on one side and four scraggly points on the other side. Dad said I could shoot him.”

Unfortunately, nerves got the best of him and as Lee pulled his rifle up to fire, he was shaking. Just as he was able to calm down, their hunting partner shot and the cull buck busted out of the food plot.

“We figured the woods were all awake after the shot and deer busting through the woods, so we decided we would go help our friend track and drag his deer before it got dark.”

The Tiffees started to depart their stand, but were still in hunt mode. Tom looked up and saw a deer standing on the back side of the food plot. Then, Lee saw him, but couldn’t see his antlers. The rest Tom remembers in slow motion. Lee’s gun was resting on the side of the stand, and before Tom knew what was happening, Lee was shooting at the deer. A round from the Remington 700 found its target and the buck heaved, and broke for the thicket. Now the hunting party had two deer on the ground, but the rain wasn’t letting up. They finally found some blood and tracked the deer down through a gully and up the other side. Upon seeing the buck, the pair was shocked at its size, with Lee calling the grandfather to say that he had killed a monster.

Lee and his dad dragged the deer back to the vehicle, and the rest of the story has been written down in the family history book. Lee’s buck scored 168 5/8 inches, which was enough to win the youth division at a local big buck contest. The buck now hangs proudly on his wall at home and Lee offers his hunting story to any who will listen.

AVOYELLES PARISH — AMANDA SMITH

The second week of January blew into Avoyelles Parish on the backside of rain and saw a cold air mass settle into the region. This weather is normal in northern regions, but can be hard to handle for Deep South hunters. Those brave enough to venture to the woods included Amanda Smith.

“I tried to get my son to sit in the stands that evening, but he didn’t want to,” recalled Amanda. The family hunts a small tract of bottomland behind their home in Avoyelles Parish. Though small, land anywhere in Avoyelles Parish may be holding big deer. This is true for the family’s hunting land.

For seven seasons, the Smiths have watched one deer in particular. The buck always produced non-typical antlers and his crown has grown every year. This week, Scotty had taken over home duty for Amanda and she took a week to hunt. They had meat in the freezer and were buck hunting, having seen the buck on a camera about a month before. He had grown and they were figuring this would be the season they took him. Interestingly, the deer the Smith’s had been watching grow over the years was unknown to their neighbors.

“On January 13th, the wind was in my favor, and I walked to the stand for the evening hunt carrying an extra piece of gear — my portable heater,” Amanda said.

Heater in hand and an H&R .444 slung over her shoulder, Smith took to the woods, using the same trail to their only stand on the property. They don’t move around a lot on the property, which is why they believe they are so successful. The hunt was uneventful and cold, at least until a deer appeared.

“When I saw the deer coming, I reached down, turned the heater off and picked up my rifle,” said Amanda. “Putting it up, I realized that the lens had fogged up. I wiped down the scope, slowly, and made a small circle just enough to see through. I put the deer in the crosshairs.

She was calm, as she believed it was a cull buck — a bent up 6 point with lame legs — they had identified for removal. With the deer standing broadside, she squeezed the trigger and he went down. Smith didn’t realize she had killed a 200-inch monster buck.

“I climbed down, walked up to the deer, realized who it was, and I went crazy,” said Amanda.

Scotty arrived on scene as did the couple’s children, making it a family affair; they kids were very excited. They dragged the deer home where it officially scored 226 2/8 inches, making it the fifth largest non-typical in the state and the biggest ever in Avoyelles Parish.

The length of time it takes for a deer to decompose varies greatly according to environmental factors around the carcass. A deer carcass that is left to decompose without interference from scavengers may take around six months to completely decompose to bones.

Scavengers play a very important role in the decomposition of deer. They help eat the flesh from the bones and scattered the pieces exposing them to other agents of decomposition.

By puncturing the skin, they help in the circulation of oxygen into and out of the body which plays a big role in its decomposition.

Weather is also known to affect the rate of decomposition. Carcasses are known to decompose faster during summer when temperatures are high. Cold temperatures are known to preserve the body.

What is Decomposition?

Decomposition is the process where dead organic matter is broken down into simple organic and inorganic matter

All organic matter once dead needs to be broken down. If this did not happen, bodies and dead plants would be all over the world.

Decomposition helps in returning nutrients ingested back to the ground. Farmers have been known to decompose compost and add it to their to the soil in their farm to increase nutrients in the soil. Dead leaves that decompose on the forest floor add nutrients back to the soil which helps the forest to thrive.

Factors That Influence The Rate of Decomposition

Various factors influence the rate of decomposition. Below are some of them.

1. Temperature

Warmer temperatures promote decay. This is because they are favorable for bacteria activities. Cold temperatures inhibit bacterial activity. It is not uncommon for decomposition not to occur at extreme cold temperatures.

2. Moisture

Research shows that moisture plays an important role in the decomposition of dead matter. The higher the moisture content in the carcass the faster it is able to decompose.

Mummification occurs when the body has low moisture content and is exposed to extremely high temperatures. The body is normally preserved at this state because bacterial activities are not able to complete.

3. Oxygen

Oxygen influences aerobic bacterial activity. This means that the higher the oxygen levels the faster the rate of decomposition.

4. Insects

Insects like blowflies are attracted to rotting matter. They lay their eggs on open surfaces of the carcass which hatch into maggots.

The maggots crawl into the body, damage soft tissue while burrowing into them, liquefying the body and increasing heat. They feed on the dead body and later on emerge as adult flies.

5. Season / Climate

During fly season decomposition rates are higher. This is because of the availability of more flies which means that more maggots will be present to helping the decomposition of the carcass.

6. Animal Activity

scavengers are known to pick through dead bodies and find whatever is edible and eat it. While feeding, they end up scattering some of the body parts exposing them to other agents off decomposition.

What Decomposes a Deer?

A class of animals known as decomposers are responsible for the breaking down of dead matter. They include, fungi, bacteria, worms and insects.

Decomposers are animals that get their energy by feeding on dead plants and animals. They are also known for breaking down animal waste from which they get energy.

They play a very important role of keeping energy flowing throughout the ecosystem. By breaking down organic matter into simpler inorganic matter they make nutrients available for primary consumers.

Worms do not necessarily fall under decomposers. They are commonly known as detritivores. Worms, unlike bacteria who absorb the nutrients directly from their surroundings, feed on and digest their food internally.

What Happens When a Deer Decomposes?

When a deer decomposes, their flesh, internal organs and skin is completely broken down leaving behind only bones which take longer to decompose.

The dead body passes through several stages before it is completely disintegrated too bones. Below at the five stages in which the body Undergoes.

Stage One: Fresh

This is the stage a few hours after the animal dies. Blood stop circulating throughout the body and the limbs start stiffening due to chemical changes in the muscles.

The remains are free of insects. Blood flows and settles on the lower side closest to the ground. Body temperatures either drop or rise to match those of the surroundings.

Stage Two: Bloat

It is during this stage that bacteria present in the human body begins to digest the tissues. This activity causes them to release gases that fill the body making it to bloat.

The body starts emitting a foul smell as the bacteria do their work. The pressure exerted by the gases in the body forces fluids out through openings in the body.

The foul smell attracts blowflies which come and lay their eggs in the body. The maggots hatch and start feeding on body tissues that detach from the skin causing it to slip.

Stage Three: Active Decay

As bacteria and insects breakdown muscles and other organs a lot of mass is lost. Liquids released into the surrounding also contributes to the loss of body mass.

Body tissues liquefy and the skin turns black.

Stage Four: Advanced Decay

It is during this stage that the decomposition of tissues and cells together with the liquefaction of the body is almost complete. Most of the remains have darkened.

A lot of nutrients have been released into the soil surrounding the body increasing its fertility.

Stage Five: Dry Remains

Most of the body tissues and skin have already been decomposed and all that remains is a dry skeleton with perhaps some hair left.

Insects like beetles come and eat anything that might be left. The bones change in color and lighten up because of exposure to the sun. They are eventually covered up and disappear into the earth.

What to Do with a Decomposing Deer?

It is advisable to try and dispose of the body before it starts decomposing. This is to avoid other animals coming into contact with the dead body and avoid the foul smell from filling the area.

When other animals accidentally come into contact with the deer they might get infected by diseases carried by the dead deer. The sickness might spread throughout the herd causing many animals to get sick and die.

The best thing to do is to try and bury the body leaving it to decompose in the soil. This will release nutrients directly into the soil while avoiding anything coming into contact with the body.

If the animal died in a hard to reach place like at the bottom of a ledge, you can speed up the decomposition process by piercing the skin, increasing air circulation in and out of the carcass.

To avoid the foul smell, try pouring large amounts of lime and if possible vinegar to neutralize the smell.

Related Deer Articles:

• Are Deer Rodents?
• Can Deer Be Domesticated?
• Why Do Deer Stare At You
• Do Deer Hibernate?

Conclusion

Deer decomposition has its own advantages as it means that nutrients are able to return to the earth which will be used by other organisms.

It however produces foul smells and attracts disease spreading insects like blowflies. It is however a natural process that must occur.

Fact checked by Steven Lines, lifelong Hunter, and Outdoorsman.

Hunting for elk can be a challenge. These are large animals protected by solid bones. You’ll need to use a powerful gun to get a kill shot. So, will the .30-30 be suitable for hunting an elk?

The .30-30 will be able to kill an elk. But it has a few drawbacks. First, it doesn’t have as much power as other calibers so, you will need to hit the vitals. Also, it has a limited range of 100 yards.

If you plan on hunting for elk, you’ll need to make sure that you are using the right tools. The .30-30 is a popular hunting rifle, especially for these larger animals. Read on to learn more about this rifle and how you can get the most out of it.

Buy Ammo from Guns.com

Ammo from Palmetto State Armory

Performance of the .30-30

To decide whether or not the .30-30 is a good choice for hunting, we need to look at how we can expect it to perform in the field. Here are some of the most important aspects to consider.

Accuracy

If you are hunting for elk, you’ll need to ensure using an accurate gun. This will ensure you can hit the target area and deliver a swift death. If you miss, the animal will suffer needlessly.

You might not get the same accuracy as other calibers, like the .30-06. However, the .30-30 will still be a relatively solid shot. As we’ll discuss later, you’ll need to be reasonably close to the target. From this distance, you should achieve a relatively tight grouping.

There are a few ways to improve your rifle’s accuracy. These include:

• Using a scope. One of the biggest criticisms of most .30-30 rifles is their accuracy. While they might have an iron sight, this might not be a huge advantage during a hunt. The good news is that you can change this by adding your scope. You should quickly see an improvement in your accuracy.
• Practice. Whenever you get a new gun, it’s essential to make sure you practice on the range. This will allow you to get used to how the gun feels, adjusting your style accordingly.

Weight

Another benefit of using a .30-30 is how much they weigh. They tend to be some of the lightest guns on the market. This is good for hunters, making it easier to carry.

Recoil

The good news is that this recoil is relatively mild, especially compared with the other guns typically used for elk hunting. This will make it easier for beginners to handle. It will also make it easier for you to make a follow-up shot if required.

Lever Action Rifle

Many .30-30 rifles will be lever action-style weapons. While this might have a few downsides, like limited range, it also presents some upsides. Most significantly, you’ll be easily able to chamber another round. You won’t need to look up from the scope as you do this. As a result, you’ll be able to fire a follow-up shot quickly.

Accessibility

Finally, the .30-30 is among the most popular calibers in the United States. Most major manufacturers will offer a rifle in this caliber. Ammunition is freely available. As a result, buying a gun and ammo will be pretty inexpensive.

What’s the Range of the .30-30?

The .30-30 has a relatively limited range. If you are hunting for large animals, like elk, you’ll need to shoot from within 100 yards. This ensures the bullet will hit with enough force to take them down.

One of the best ways to calculate the range of a gun is by looking at how quickly it fires the bullets. Generally, it will need to travel at 1,500 fps when it makes contact with the elk. How fast it travels will depend on both the gun and the bullet you are using.

Usually, the .30-30 won’t be too powerful. It’s common for most of these bullets to be traveling at 2,250 fps when they leave the gun. This is because of the way that they are shaped, often with a rounded tip. This slows their flight, as it takes more effort to push the air out of the way.

This means that you won’t have a long effective range. You’ll usually need to shoot from within 100 yards. If you don’t, you risk the bullet not having enough force to penetrate the elk. There are a few other elements to consider when deciding the best range for your gun. Let’s look at some of them:

• The force of the gun. We’ll discuss this in more depth later. But, compared with other calibers, the .30-30 isn’t as hard-hitting. As a result, you will need to move closer to the elk to have a chance of generating enough power to take them down.
• Accuracy of the shooter. Since the rifle caliber has limited power, you will need to ensure that you can hit the right area. If you don’t, you will only injure the animal and need to rely on a blood trail to find it again. Because of this, you might want to move a little closer for better bullet placement.

Even experienced shooters will struggle to kill an elk from more than 100 yards away with a .30-30. As a result, you will often need to get closer. Depending on your skill, you might need to try for 75 or 50 yards. As a general rule, the closer you can get, the better. You’ll have more chance of delivering a kill shot.

What Can You Shoot With the .30-30?

While the .30-30 has a wide range of uses. While it isn’t known for taking on big game, like elk, you can make a kill shot as long as you are close enough. There are a few other species that you can target with this caliber. These include:

• Deer hunting (Mule deer/Whitetail deer). This is what this caliber was invented to tackle. It has a long history in this area. It’s estimated that millions of deer have met their end because of the .30-30.
• Feral hogs. If you are close enough, you will be able to use this weapon to cut through the thick skin of a wild hog.
• Brown bear. Some hunters have managed to take down brown bears with the .30-30.
• Moose hunting. Again, type of weapon can provide enough force, but you will need to be within 100 yards for accurate shot placement.

Should You Use the .30-30 on Elk?

Whether or not the .30-30 is right for you will depend on a few factors. First, your hunting style. Some people prefer to shoot from a distance. In this case, the .30-30 isn’t the right caliber for you. Secondly, your accuracy. As it is a weaker gun, you’ll need to be able to hit the target area.

Hopefully, you have a better idea of some of the pros and cons of the .30-30. Whether this caliber is the best choice for you will depend on a few factors.

Hunting Style

One of the most important things to think about is your hunting style. Some people prefer to shoot from a distance, ideally from around 300 yards away. This ensures that they don’t spook the animal by trying to get too close. If this is you, the .30-30 might not be the best option. It just doesn’t have enough power to make shots from a long distance.

In other cases, you might prefer to take a more active role. You might want to stalk your prey, trying to get as close as you can before you take the shot. In this case, the limited range won’t be as much of a hindrance. You’ll also likely appreciate the lightweight nature of this gun. Because of this, the .30-30 might be a good choice.

Accuracy

It’s always important to ensure you can hit the vitals before pulling the trigger. But this is even more important when using the .30-30. These bullets will do a lot of damage, but they might not have the power to break through bone.

Amount to Spend Hunting

Hunting can be an expensive business. If you don’t have a lot to spend, you might want to think about getting the .30-30. These rifles tend to be reasonably inexpensive. Bullets are freely available and will be affordable.

Other Hunting Calibers to Consider

If you are close enough, the .30-30 shouldn’t have any problems taking down big animals, like elk and moose. But, if you plan on hunting big game frequently, there are a few other calibers to consider. This will give you more power and allow you to improve your range. This will let you take a wider variety of shots and give you a better chance of killing your target. Here are some of the other options on the market:

• .270. This is one of the most popular hunting options for you to choose from. This means that rifles and ammunition will be widely available. Plus, it offers plenty of power. It will leave a huge hole in the side of any bull. This post goes into more detail.
• .308. This is another hugely popular caliber. It has a tremendously powerful shot with limited recoil. It will offer enough power to take down wildebeest in Africa if you want. You can read more about the .308 here.
• .30-06. The .30-06 is great if you plan to hunt large animals. It packs a big punch. It also has a longer range. Some reports of hunters taking out elk from over 1,000 yards using this caliber.

Best Bullets for the .30-30

The .30-30 is pretty popular, so you can choose from plenty of bullets. If planning an elk hunt, you will need to use higher-grained bullets. Make sure that they are designed for big game hunting. While these might cost a little more, you can rest assured that they will get the job done. Some of the best options include:

• 170-grain Core-Lokt. This bullet from Remington is one of the most popular hunting bullets in the world. It’s been used for over 75 years, giving it a powerful reputation. It will be able to retain its bullet weight, expanding when it hits the bull elk.
• 190 grain Buffalo Bore. This is another bullet that is known for doing a lot of damage. It offers deep penetration and should be enough to take down big game, like elk.
• 160-grain Hornady LEVERevolution ammo. This bullet has been specifically designed to work with lever-action rifles, like the .30-30. They are also able to fly faster, allowing you to achieve deeper penetration and do more damage.

Trying to find the right hunting bullet can be a challenge. It’s often best to try a few options before deciding which one you want to use. Thankfully, most of these bullets will be fairly low-cost, making it easier to experiment.

Tips When Using the .30-30 for Hunting Elk

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As we mentioned, the .30-30 might not be the best choice when hunting for big game, like elk. But that doesn’t mean that it can’t be done. Here are some tips you can use to plan a successful hunt:

• Finding the elk. First, you’ll need to be able to locate the elk. Often, this will mean looking for attractive places to feed and locating water sources. You can look at rub marks on the trees and listen for bugling. Or you can use salt licks to get them to come to you.
• Practice your stalking skills. If you are going to use the .30-30, you’ll need to be able to get close to the elk. To do this, there are a few basic skills that you will need to master. For example, you will need to learn how to mask your scent successfully. You’ll also have to get used to using the terrain to your advantage. You’ll need to find places to take shelter and move without making too much noise.
• Customize the gun. Make sure that the gun fits you correctly. This will give you more control and help you control the recoil. You might also want to upgrade the scope. This will make it easier for you to hit the vitals.
• Hunt ethically. Finally, it’s important to remember the principles of ethical hunting. Don’t take the shot if you are too far away or don’t have the right angle. The last thing you want to do is cause needless suffering to the animal by only wounding it. When you are in position, shoot to kill.

Final Thoughts

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The .30-30 has a reputation for being highly effective against deer. This is why it is one of the most popular cartridges in the United States. However, it can also be used against elk. You’ll need to get closer, with an effective range of under 100 yards.

As it doesn’t have enough force to go through the bone, you’ll need to make sure that you can hit the vitals properly. Because of this, many people prefer to switch to more powerful calibers when hunting for big game, like elk.

Steven Lines is a hunter and outdoorsman from Safford, Arizona, USA. Since he was a child, he has been hunting and fishing and has over 20 years of outdoor experience. Steven works as a hunting guide in Arizona during his spare time and runs a Youtube channel dedicated to sharing his outdoor adventures with others.

Sources

• https://www.americanhunter.org/articles/2015/12/20/america-s-most-wanted-ammunition/
• https://www.ronspomeroutdoors.com/blog/30-30-winchester-is-a-joke
• https://thebiggamehuntingblog.com/30-30-winchester/