Hornady’s new 7mm PRC (Precision Rifle Cartridge) is probably the best long-range 7mm cartridge ever introduced. As with all rifle cartridges, handloading tuned ammo for it helps achieve the best it has to offer. The 7mm PRC’s DNA is 100 percent long range. As such, loading highly aerodynamic bullets is recommended. The cartridge doesn’t offer any advantage with light 7mm bullets.

As spec’d by SAAMI, the 7mm PRC has a rifling twist rate of 1:8. This enables it to effectively stabilize the long-bodied, streamlined projectiles. Lead-core bullets of 168 grains ranging up to 195 grains and monometal bullets of 160 grains up to 168 grains provide optimal performance in the 7mm PRC. Examples are Barnes 168-grain LRX bullet; Berger 168-grain VLD Hunting, 180-grain VLD Hunting, and 195-grain Extreme Outer Limits Elite Hunter; and Hornady 160-grain CX, 175-grain ELD-X, 180-grain ELD Match and 190-grain A-Tip.

The 7mm PRC has a cartridge case design characteristic that affects handloading technique, particularly projectile seating. Like its 6.5 PRC and .300 PRC siblings, the 7mm PRC is engineered with a lot of head height. This allows long bullets with stretched-out, fine-entry noses to be seated well out of the case, so the bases don’t intrude into the powder reservoir. This is important, as you’ll see in a moment.

The parent case is the .375 Ruger, which is a non-belted case with quite parallel sides and relatively steep 30-degree shoulder angle. It’s actually a quarter-inch shorter than the classic 7mm Rem. Mag. and has less capacity when filled to the case mouth. The 7mm PRC case contains 82 grains of water; the 7mm Rem. Mag. contains 85 grains of water.

However, since you don’t have to seat long, heavy-for-caliber bullets deeply into the powder reservoir, loaded 7mm PRC cartridges actually have greater internal capacity than 7mm Rem. Mag. cartridges.

Overall 7mm PRC case length is 2.280 inches. Trim-to length is 2.260 inches. Overall maximum loaded cartridge length is 3.340 inches. This puts the 7mm PRC into the “standard .30-06” cartridge length category. As with every cartridge, if desired, handloaders may load to longer max length if their rifle’s magazines will allow it. SAAMI pressure limit is 65,000 psi.

Currently, cartridge cases are available only from Hornady. That’s not a problem, because the Hornady cases I’ve used in my testing and handloading and hunting with the 7mm PRC have been stellar.

If you want to milk every ounce of potential out of the 7mm PRC and your Hornady cases, trim them all to equal length, then weight-sort and neck turn them. You’ll end up with top-notch cases equal to any task.

My reloading dies are standard Hornady versions, and they’ve served very well. Presumably, other manufacturers such as RCBS and Redding will soon get on board, and we may see match-grade dies as well.

As nearly all propellant charges will be well north of the 60-grain threshhold compatibility with Large Rifle primers, it’s best to use Large Rifle Magnum primers. I’ve been using Federal 215 Gold Medal Match primers, and they’ve provided splendid consistency.

Data for the 7mm PRC are currently available on the Hornady reloading app. I developed the loads in the accompanying chart from early recommendations by Hornady technicians based on their lab work. They suggested Reloder 26 and H1000, with RL-26 being particularly magic.

However, at first I didn’t have any RL-26 on hand, so I started with H1000. To my delight, every load averaged less than three-quarters of an inch at 100 yards. Even with the relatively short 20-inch barrel on the Gunwerks Nexus test rifle, velocity was rather good.

Accuracy with Hornady’s 180-grain ELD Match bullets was eyebrow-raising, averaging 0.42 inch over a series of three-shot groups. This bullet has an incredibly good ballistic G1 coefficient of .796, and Hornady’s factory ammo is spec’d to generate about 2,950 fps in 26-inch barrels. That makes it one of the most capable extreme-range cartridges on the market.

Thanks to the 7mm PRC’s head height, handloaders will find it easy to finesse seating depth for best accuracy. Load thin-jacketed cup-and-core bullets to kiss the rifling. Load thick-jacketed bonded-core and monometal bullets 0.050 inch off the rifling leade so as to avoid pressure spikes, and tune from there. Generally, best results with such will be found between 0.020 and 0.100 inch off the leade.

As with all bottlenecked, centerfire cartridges fed from box magazines, there’s no need to crimp seated bullets. Just allow the neck tension to hold them in place.

For Idaho’s 2022 spring bear season, I loaded up a batch of 7mm PRC ammo using 150-grain Hornady CX bullets. My wife and two daughters proceeded to clobber three black bears with the 7mm PRC.

A few months later, the 160-grain CX was launched. My first try at working up a handload resulted in a load under half m.o.a., courtesy of RL-26. Clearly, the 7mm PRC is a well-behaved, inherently accurate cartridge that’s easy to handload for splendid results.

I haven’t yet experimented with a broad variety of projectiles by manufacturers other than Hornady. However, I’m looking forward to doing so.

Candidly, before learning the details of the 7mm PRC, I was a deep skeptic. I didn’t believe we had any use for another 7mm Magnum. After handloading and shooting and hunting with it, I’m a convert.

I experienced a powerful testimony of the cartridge’s right to exist at the SAAM shooting facility in Texas. Using a Remington 700 chambered in 7mm PRC, I shot steel targets all the way out to a mile. Then I put five consecutive 180-grain ELD Match bullets onto a 24×48-inch steel plate at 1,800 yards. I became a believer.

I now consider it the best 7mm magnum ever designed, and tuned handloads take it from splendid to spectacular.

WARNING: The loads shown here are safe only in the guns for which they were developed. Neither the author nor Outdoor Sportsman Group assumes any liability for accidents or injury resulting from the use or misuse of this data. Shooting reloads may void any warranty on your firearm.

Winchester’s Model 1873 lever action was the first truly successful high-capacity repeating rifle. Bugs that plagued the ancestral Henry Model 1860 and Winchester Model 1866 were largely eliminated in its design, and it quickly became the favorite of ranchers, cowboys, lawmen, and outlaws. During the half-century it was manufactured, just over 720,000 were produced.

Manufactured in 1889, the Model 1873 shown and reviewed here represents the most popular configuration—the “rifle” model with crescent buttplate and 24-inch octagonal barrel. Second in popularity was a carbine version with a 20-inch round barrel. There was a third standard type (“musket”) with a 30-inch barrel and full-length stock, but it made up only about five percent of total Model 1873 sales. In addition, many custom 1873s were built and shipped.

Chambered in various cartridges, ranging from .25-20 Winchester through .44-40 Winchester, the Model 1873 was really a pistol-caliber rifle. It did not compete with the big-bore single-shot rifles and lever actions favored by big-game hunters in the Rockies and on the buffalo ranges. High cartridge capacity, light recoil, and good-enough ballistic performance for use out to 100 yards or a bit more were the Model 1873’s forte.

Mechanicals

The Winchester 1873 loads through a gate in the right side panel of the action. Rounds are contained in a tubular magazine beneath the barrel and fed up into the chamber via a lifting-block arrangement that serves triple-duty as a magazine cutoff and as a moving, mechanical ejector. The slender bolt reciprocates rearward inside the top of the action, and its rearmost portion pushes the hammer back to fullcock when the lever is opened.

When the lever is worked, a simple hook-type extractor positioned at 12 o’clock in the boltface draws the empty cartridge case from the chamber. The bolt cocks the hammer, and the lifter brings a fresh cartridge into alignment with the chamber, boosting the empty cartridge above up and out of the ejection port. Bringing the lever briskly back into firing position runs the bolt forward, pushing the fresh cartridge into the chamber.

A trigger-cutoff-type safety is incorporated in the action, and the lever must be squeezed fully closed before the trigger can be pressed. To prevent the lever from inadvertently opening while in the field, a rotating catch is provided at the rear of the lever and may be rotated to secure it in the closed position. Another field-expedient feature is the sliding dust cover atop the action, which may be manually closed to prevent grit from accumulating inside the action.

An additional safety is present in the form of a halfcock notch in the hammer, which may be lowered to this position after chambering a round.

Provenance

The .44-40 rifle reviewed here belongs to a good buddy of mine. His father purchased it for $700 and then handed it down to my friend. The original owner had it most of his life and had hunted with it. A close look inside the bore showed quite a lot of pitting and rounded-off rifling. A gentle but thorough cleaning removed accumulated dust and remnant traces of fouling.

Rangetime

Out of deference to the rifle’s vintage, I assembled two mild handloads to test-fire through it. One consisted of a 200-grain hard-cast bullet sized to 0.429 inch, with the correct nose shape and length for the .44-40, over 7.3 grains of Unique powder. The second load featured a 180-grain short-jacketed hollowpoint bullet over 6.0 grains of Trail Boss powder. Both loads were primed with Winchester Large Pistol primers in Winchester brass.

Not knowing how the worn bore would shoot, I placed my test target at 25 yards. I tested the jacketed-bullet load first, thinking that the cast-bullet loads might quickly build up leading in the pitted bore.

The mild jacketed-bullet load averaged 0.93 inch, and initially the load with the hard-cast 200-grain bullets showed tremendous promise. The first group clumped into one ragged 0.64-inch hole; however, as I expected, the more I shot the cast bullets, the worse accuracy became. Still, they averaged an acceptable 2.13 inches.

With accuracy testing wrapped up, I stepped away from the bench and shot casually, running a few rapid-fire rounds at my steel Birchwood Casey popper target. While I didn’t get too aggressive about speed, the vintage rifle ran smoothly and without a hitch—and without a miss. Balance was wonderful, and recoil was mild. It’s no wonder it was the most popular all-around rifle of its time.

Interested in pushing past the 100-yard line? Want to get into long range shooting but are confused with all the terminology and myths surrounding it?

Today’s goal is to get you to a solid starting place to build and improve on for years to come.

We’ll lay out some of our recommended rifles for beginner precision shooters as well as point out other considerations to think about when choosing your first precision rifle.

So, keep reading to learn more about what you’ll need to get those long-range shots!

THE QUICK LIST

Best Long Range & Precision Rifles

1. Tikka T3X CTR

From the factory, the CTR comes with quite a few desirable features.

A hammer-forged and threaded barrel makes for an accurate shooter ready to accept a suppressor. That’s almost a requirement these days.

The action is straight enough to accept aftermarket pre-fit barrels without any machine work needed.

Not to mention, the scope base uses lugs and screws for attachment. This creates a rock-solid attachment system.

The safety locks the bolt in place, preventing any unwanted opening, and that’s especially handy if you use it as a hunting rifle.

Its stock is a bit basic, but it’s sturdy enough to prevent flex, lending to an accurate rifle.

Personally, I consider the CTR a phenomenal starter rifle since they’re very accurate out-of-the-box.

But don’t worry; you can upgrade this series with a plethora of aftermarket parts.

2. Tikka T3X TAC A1

The T3X TAC A1 is the bigger, more well-featured brother of the CTR.

It uses the same action and barrel but adds a few tricks…

Starting from the front, it sports a threaded barrel with a large 3-port brake. This brake reduces recoil but can also be removed for suppressor use.

A 2-stage, adjustable weight trigger, replaces the standard Tikka trigger.

But the biggest and most noticeable feature is the chassis. It offers an M-LOK forend upfront for attaching all the accessories you want.

This rifle also brings aluminum bedding blocks for the action.

And the factory grip is comfortable but can also be swapped for your favorite AR-pattern grip. We prefer versatility at PPT!

The rear end features a folding stock that is adjustable for length-of-pull and comb height. But it uses a standard AR-15 interface…you know that means…

It can be swapped for your preferred stock.

3. Ruger Precision Rifle

Ruger jumped into the precision rifle world with the Ruger Precision Rifle, and they knocked it out of the park!

With the growing popularity of precision rifle matches, Ruger reached out to some of the experts in the field to collaborate on a rifle. And the RPR was born.

This is truly the AR-15 of the bolt-rifle world…a list of aftermarket parts would require its own lengthy article.

From the factory, it comes with a threaded barrel, all sitting on a cold hammer-forged 5R rifled barrel.

An aluminum M-LOK forend accompanies the front of the gun for attaching accessories.

One of the key features of this rifle, though, is its magazine adaptability. It will easily handle DPMS pattern, Magpul PMAGS, and industry-standard AICS mags.

An adjustable trigger, standard AR-15 safety, and grip complete the fire controls.

Moving on, it comes with a fully adjustable, folding buttstock. This stock is adjustable for both length-of-pull and comb height.

And it uses a standard AR-15 interface, so the RPR works with any aftermarket option.

Oh, and did we mention that the Ruger Precision Rimfire makes an excellent trainer rifle that will keep things consistent but cut down on ammo costs.

4. Bergara B-14 HMR

The Bergara B-14 HMR rifle hits every mark for anyone that wants a solid crossover platform.

A number of people have gotten into the precision rifle game to further their skills in the field, and instead of building two separate rifles…why not buy one that can perform at the distance range and the hunting field? It just makes sense.

Like some other models, the B-14 HMR offers a match-grade threaded barrel with a thread protector. You’ll have to supply your own break if you want one, though.

The receiver is patterned after the Remington 700, which means it accepts any Remington 700 base or aftermarket stock.

A match-grade trigger adds to the features.

Its factory stock features an aluminum mini chassis for accuracy and molded-in QD flush cups for your favorite sling.

Length-of-pull and comb height adjustments help fit the rifle to any shooter. Bergara also offers a matching .22 LR training rifle for cheap practice.

5. Accuracy International AT

Alright, guys, here it is, my one wild card…

Accuracy International’s AT is the next generation of the wildly popular Accuracy International Arctic Warfare — one of the most widely issued military sniper rifles in the world.

While many aftermarket parts are available right out of the box, this rifle needs no improvement.

For starters, it provides a match-grade threaded barrel fitted to the receiver with AI’s quick loc system.

Ever wanted to change calibers at the drop of a hat?

Well, now you can. The quick loc system barrels make swapping calibers easy with just a 4mm hex key and about two minutes of time.

This rifle’s receiver is flat-bottomed and bonded to a rigid aluminum chassis, and the bolt features six lugs and a short and fast 60-degree throw.

A match-grade 2-stage trigger helps you realize all of the rifle’s accuracy potential.

The AT also delivers a 3-position safety with some unique features. Position one is safe, locking the bolt in place and rendering the trigger safe, while position two keeps the trigger safe but allows you to run the bolt to safely unload the rifle. And position three is fire.

Covering the aluminum chassis is a set of molded plastic skins that users can switch out for any color they desire.

The stock also features multiple sling attachment points in either a folder or fixed version.

If all you want to do for a rifle is mount a quality optic and get to shooting, the AT proves hard to beat.

Dependability and consistency are the hallmarks of the AT line of rifles.

.308 Winchester vs. 6.5 Creedmoor: Which Caliber Is Better for Long Range Shooting?

.308 Winchester has been the go-to standard in long range shooting for the last half-century for a few reasons…

Tons of available match ammo and regular plinking ammo exist for it — from match grade to surplus. If you decide to reload your own ammo down the road, an abundance of bullets and reloading data is available…more so than nearly any other round.

But how do you save money when shooting this round? Keep your expensive match ammo for the longer distances and use cheaper surplus ammo for close-in positional work.

6.5 Creedmoor

What about 6.5 Creedmoor?

6.5 Creedmoor is the newer, cooler kid on the block. It pushes out farther and drops less than a .308.

Factory match-grade ammo is available with good quality. While overall ammo choices and reloading data aren’t as prevalent as a .308, quality ammo is still readily available.

So, which do you choose — .308 Win or 6.5CM?

Honestly, both options are proven choices for beginners.

Twist Rates & Precision Shooting

I’m sure everyone has seen the markings on the side of a rifle barrel — 1/10, 1/8 — but what do these numbers mean?

Basically, it refers to the length of the barrel required to make one full turn of the rifling. So, 1/10 would translate to 1 full turn in 10 inches of barrel length.

Twist rates are important because they stabilize the bullet at longer ranges, especially when it starts going into the trans-sonic and sub-sonic territory.

For a beginner rifle, you want something with a very versatile twist rate as you try different ammunition or handloads to find your preferred ammo.

With a .308 Win, a 1/10 twist is generally preferred. Over the course of my career with precision rifles, I’ve never run across a bullet that won’t perform well in a 1/10.

On the other hand, with a 6.5 Creedmoor, a 1/8 twist will be your most versatile option. All of the lighter weight hunting bullets up to the heavier precision rifle bullets will perform well with this twist rate.

Upgrading a Precision or Long-Range Rifle

This is going to be a big one…

Since this is a beginner rifle article, you’ll probably want to upgrade and accessorize. One trip to your local, long-distance range or precision rifle match, and you’ll be dreaming of new parts.

From stocks, chassis systems, magazines, triggers, and even barrels…using a rifle platform that can be upgraded with aftermarket parts is huge!

Accessories like bases, rings, bipods, and stocks can make or break a rifle. I’m not saying you have to buy the most expensive accessories, but solid quality parts will keep your rifle performing, and you focused on the target.

Since you need to see what you’re aiming at, a good scope is an absolute must.

Yet again, the most expensive is not always needed. With the rising popularity of distance shooting, a lot of companies have started to produce solid optics at very reasonable pricing.

When shopping, match the reticle to the task — a duplex hunting reticle will not do any good when trying to do holdovers at distance.

And try not to overdo the magnification — believe it or not, too much can hinder you. A good 3-18 or 5-25 can cover most situations.

Lastly, repeatable adjustments are a necessity. They keep your rifle and you consistent at longer distances.

Things to Consider When Choosing a Precision Rifle

Know Your Goal

My best piece of advice for anyone wanting to get into the long-range game is to have a clear idea of the end goal.

I’ve seen many people buy the hot commodity of the week that doesn’t fit with what they need in a rifle. This is a costly, aggravating path to take.

Easy Maintenance

One of my biggest priority’s when it comes to rifle selection is being able to maintain it.

That means having the ability to swap major parts like triggers, barrels, and stocks without taking it to a gunsmith.

Maintaining out-of-the-box accuracy without any additional expenses accurizing or bedding is a big factor. Personally, I want the ability to do the work at my own workbench, and you probably do too.

Price

Long range set-ups can run a little more than your average rifle, but with the out-of-box features and adaptability, a little investment up front will save you a lot of money in the long run.

Conclusion

With a bit of planning and forethought, the path to precision rifle shooting can be a fun and rewarding journey.

Hopefully, we’ve given you a good list of rifles to consider when shopping and some other considerations to factor in when making that final selection.

What are your favorite long range rifles? Let us know in the comments below. Need some scope recommendations? Check out our guide to the Best Long Range Scopes.

So you just bought a new AR-15 and took it to the range.

You ripped through a few boxes of ammo and now you’re home and you need to know….how do I clean this thing?

Maybe you’ve pulled the pins and separated the upper and the lower and you have no idea what to do from there.

It looks intimidating, right?

Feeling a bit overwhelmed?

No need for that, cleaning the AR-15 is pretty easy!

I’m going to show you just how easy it is to tear your rifle apart, clean it in depth, and put it all back together without fear of damaging anything or leaving any parts out.

Now…with a quick video too!

If that helped, please subscribe to our YouTube channel since we’re adding new videos every week!

Step One: Get the Tools to Clean Your AR-15

If you already have other guns, and you’re cleaning them like you should be (you are cleaning your guns regularly right?) then you most likely already have just about everything you need to clean an AR-15, except for some AR-specific things like a bore brush for your particular caliber.

If you don’t already have cleaning supplies, or if you want to build a complete AR-15 cleaning kit that you can carry to the range or competitions, you have two options: build a kit, or buy one.

Which one is better?

That’s going to be a decision you have to make for yourself.

If you just want a kit that works, or maybe you don’t shoot your AR a lot and aren’t worried about maximizing your cleaning efficiency, then just buying a pre-made kit is perfectly fine.

But, if you are a high volume shooter and you need to clean your rifle frequently, or you’re like me and just enjoy the Zen-like process of cleaning your guns, you’ll probably want to build the perfect kit to meet your needs.

Let’s look at the pros and cons of these two approaches.

Buying a Pre-Made Gun Cleaning Kit

First, if you want to order a kit that will have just about everything you need, there’s no shame in that. Not everyone has the time or energy to build a kit from scratch, and there are several good options out there. The downsides of buying a totally pre-made kit are you can only reliably find universal cleaning kits that are going to include a bunch of extra brushes and bore snakes that you won’t necessarily need.

Think of the pre-made kit like an off-the-rack suit. Sure it’ll work, but its never going to be as nice, or as personalized as a bespoke option.

Basically, off-the-rack is fine, but you wouldn’t want to wear it to your wedding or wear it every day.

The same goes for these pre-made kits…you wouldn’t want to rely on them for something important, say, if you’re a competition shooter, and you’ll want a more personalized option if you’re going to be using it a lot.

That being said, these kits are perfectly fine for most folks, and they’ll be good if you have other guns or other AR-15 calibers, or are looking at acquiring some in the future. Our favorite is the GuardTech.

With these kits or any kit, you buy/build, you’ll want to make sure that they include the correct size bore snakes and brushes, as well as the other tools that work with your AR-15. Make sure you match the caliber to your gun, or you’re going to have to buy another…and you’ll feel a bit silly in the process.

Check out all our favorites in Best Gun Cleaning Kits.

Building Your Own AR-15 Cleaning Kit

Because cleaning a gun is a process that can vary so much from person to person, it’s best that you build a kit that meets your own needs. You can always pick up several different pre-made kits and combine them into one giant “frankenkit”.

If you’re going to build your own kit, I recommend buying a nice case such as this Plano 3-Tray Tackle Box with Dual Top Access, but anything from a cardboard box on up will do.

Next, you’ll want a cleaning mat to keep your parts visible and to keep everything organized. A white sheet or tablecloth will do, but I like this Gun Cleaning Mat because it also includes a handy parts list, making it perfect for a beginner.

From there, you’ll want to buy the brushes and bore snakes/rods for your particular AR caliber. I’ve included some links to .223/5.56 caliber ones below since these are the most common flavors of AR on the market, but you’ll need ones that match your particular caliber.

Here are some kits that include more or less everything you need:

• Gunmaster 223/5.56 AR Rifle Cleaning Kit ($12) – This is the one in my case up top.
• Real Avid Gun Boss – AR/.223/5.56 Compact Rod-Type Cleaning System Kit ($30)
• Otis Modern Sporting Rifle & AR Cleaning System ($43)

With these kits, you should have the brushes, bore snakes/rods, punches, and other various and sundry things you will need, other than your consumable cleaning supplies such as solvent, lubes, and cleaning patches.

The only other things you may find useful (especially if you want to get into some light gunsmithing) is a better punch set like this Ultimate Arms Roll Pin Punch Set ($29.99) and an AR-15 Vise Block ($49.99) that fits into the mag well of the rifle so you can secure it in a bench vise without scratching the finish on your gun.

Best AR-15 Cleaning Solvents and Lubricant

• Hoppe’s No. 9 Gun Bore Cleaner ($7.46)
• Hoppe’s No. 9 Lubricating Oil ($6.99)
• CLP Oil, Solvent, and Lube Combination ($33)
• Ballistol Multi-Purpose Aerosol Can Lubricant Cleaner Protectant ($10) (We love this one so much, we wrote a Ballistol Review)

Step 2: Prep the Area and Clear the Firearm

First, lay out your cleaning mat and throw on some gloves. Some of these chemicals are toxic and you want them in the gun, not on your skin or in your body.

Next, round up all the ammo for your gun, and move it off the table. Seriously. Get it out of the room, if possible. This eliminates the possibility of a round finding its way into the chamber at any point.

Next, clear and render safe your firearm. (That’s fancy talk for making sure the gun can’t go pew, pew pew, or pew pew pew for any reason.)

Here’s the full procedure

1. Point the rifle in a SAFE direction.
2. Remove the magazine.
3. Place the weapon on safe (don’t worry if you can’t because the hammer isn’t pulled back).
4. Lock the bolt to the rear.
5. Visually inspect the chamber and remove any ammunition that may not have been ejected.
6. Release the bolt.
7. Place the weapon on safe.

Step 2: Separate the Upper Receiver from the Lower Receiver.

Push the take-down pins out and pull the two halves apart. Some pins can be pushed out with your finger, others may require the use of a punch. Be careful whatever you use so you don’t scratch your finish. I recommend a nylon punch from one of the kits above for general use.

Step 3: Remove the Charging Handle and Bolt Carrier Group

Step 4: Disassemble the Bolt Carrier Group

First, push the bolt to the rear (pictured above) and remove the firing pin retaining pin using your pick. Remove the firing pin and set it aside. Rotate the cam pin ninety degrees and remove it. Now the bolt should slide right out!

Step 5: Disassemble the Bolt

Once you have the bolt out of the bolt carrier group, use a punch and your mallet to remove the extractor pin, and then remove the extractor and set it aside.

Step 6: Remove the Buffer and Buffer Spring from the Buffer Tube

Using a calloused finger, or a punch, press down on the buffer retainer. Remove the buffer and spring from the tube. Remember the retainer is under pressure, so try not to push down on it too far and slip once the pieces are out.

Otherwise, you’ll spend the next few hours looking for it after it springs off to the other end of the room.

Step 7: Clean the Chamber and Barrel

Everyone has their method for this, but there are a few things you need to remember.

The most important thing is that you clean the chamber and barrel from rear to front. You want to make sure the debris comes out the front of the barrel, and that any brush you use on a rod is inserted from the rear – go with the bullet.

This helps keep the rifling intact. The movies are wrong; you don’t clean from the muzzle to the chamber!

This area takes some creativity to clean up, but with time you’ll find what works for you. This is a good place to drop a little bit of that Bore Cleaner you picked up.

Step 8: Clean the Bolt Carrier Group

This is easier than the chamber and barrel.

Give everything a good scrub. Look for carbon buildup, especially at the rear of the firing pin.

Clean the extractor well, attention to detail is key. I make sure my rags are all plain white and cleaned after every use with bleach.

Set one aside as an “inspection” rag so you can easily find missed carbon.

When you’re finished, reassemble the bolt carrier group in the exact opposite order of disassembly. Make sure your bolt is fully to the front so it can be reinserted in the upper. A flick of the wrist helps this along.

Step 9: Clean the Buffer Assembly

This part is easy. Get a rag with a little lube on it and wipe it all down.

Unless you took your rifle to a really cool obstacle course, you probably won’t need to get back in the tube itself. Wipe down the spring and buffer and you’re all set.

During this step, if you have a collapsible stock it’s not a bad idea to remove it and wipe down the outside of the buffer. It’s an option if you have been in a messy environment, but not needed for range trips.

Step 10: Clean the Charging Handle and Upper Receiver

Just like the buffer assembly, a lightly oiled rag is all you should really need here.

You’ll find what works best for you, but once reassembled the charging handle should move effortlessly within the upper receiver.

Step 11: Clean the Fire Control Group (FCG) and Lower Receiver

This takes a brush, oil, and patience.

It generally doesn’t get too fouled up. Pay attention to your FCG and make sure there are no cracks on the hammer or anywhere on the lower receiver.

Step 12: Reassemble your Rifle

Work backward from the takedown, just like the bolt carrier group. After the fifth time, you do this it will become second nature! It should look something like this when you’re done.

Step 13: Lubricate your Rifle

There are more details to this, but I’m going to keep it simple for right now. All the pieces of your bolt carrier group and your charging handle should receive a light coat of lubricant. It should have a nice sheen to it.

Your FCG, mag release button, bolt catch button, safety selector should all get a drop or two of lubricant. Fiddle with them a touch to work it in there. Bottom line, anything that moves needs to have a bit of lubricant on it.

Step 14: Perform a Function Check

You put all your ammo away at the beginning of this whole deal (right?) so there should be no way a round is anywhere near the chamber but do a safety check just in case.

Then:

1. Point the weapon in a safe direction.
2. Pull the bolt to the rear and release it forward.
3. Place the rifle on safe. Squeeze the trigger. If the hammer doesn’t drop, you passed that step.
4. Place the rifle on fire and pull the trigger. The hammer should fall. If it does, then you’re all finished with the hard part.

Step 16: Clean Your Magazine

This is an often overlooked step. It doesn’t need to be cleaned after every trip to the range. Just pay attention to it during loading.

Does it bind up? Can you hear dirt rattling around in there? Is it hard to load?

Cleaning the magazine is just like cleaning the buffer assembly. Use a pick or whatever you have handy to remove the base plate.

Remove the spring and follower. Wipe it all down and clean it up. Reassemble in the reverse of disassembly.

These are pretty straightforward. If you’ve invested in anti-tilt followers for your GI magazines, this is a great time to install them.

Step 17: Maintenance

Just like the break-in procedure, every rifle has its own maintenance schedule. Consult the manufacturer for more. A general rule of thumb is to give your rifle a thorough inspection every thousand rounds. Once you hit the five thousand round mark, it is a good idea to move to inspections every five hundred rounds.

The most common failures occur in the various springs (specifically the extractor spring), and in the O-Rings on the bolt carrier group. If failures begin, start there!

Keeping a clean and properly lubricated rifle will naturally reduce the risk of failure and extend the life of your rifle. During each cleaning, inspect all parts of cracks, burrs and general wear and tear that may bring your rifle out of spec.

Some Final Thing to Consider When Cleaning an AR-15

Do you shoot corrosive ammo? Check out our handy guide for more information and proper cleaning instructions.

Take your time. You want to be as thorough as possible. Really get inside the bolt carrier with every rag and cleaner you possibly can.

When inserting the firing pin retaining pin, remember the big hole is where it goes in. If you put it in the small hole on the other side, you’re going to have a bad day.

Anything that moves on your rifle should get at least one drop of lubricant whenever you clean. Just like an engine, that oil is important! I cannot stress this enough.

That about does it for this one folks, if you have any questions or want to tell us about your own cleaning procedures, drop us a line in the comments below! Want to see what can happen when you DON’T clean your AR…check out 8 Most Common AR-15 Failures.

Mushroom foraging has dramatically increased in popularity in the last few years. More and more people are passionate about getting outside and learning about the land they live and work in. Harvesting wild fungi is one way to participate in your local ecosystem, and if you live in Michigan, you are in a prime mushroom-hunting zone. Mushrooms prefer temperate climates with clear seasonal divisions.

Michigan is a great state for mushroom foraging because it has an abundance of forests, regular rainfall, and well-defined seasons. There are over 2,500 wild mushroom species that live in the state, and between 60 and 100 are edible.

Keep reading this article to learn about edible and toxic mushroom species in Michigan. We’ll talk about their growth habits, the conditions necessary for their flourishing, and, if they’re edible, what you can make with them.

14 Mushrooms in Michigan

This list contains both edible and non-edible mushrooms. When foraging is your responsibility to ensure that you properly identify the mushrooms on this list. They are clearly labeled and described with pictures and indicators of whether they are edible.

If you believe you have ingested a poisonous mushroom, seek immediate medical attention. Some poisonous mushrooms have slow-acting toxins.

Edible Mushrooms

The mushrooms in this section are safe for human consumption. Remember that all mushrooms must be cooked before eating, and that it’s your responsibility to properly identify a mushroom. If you’re in doubt, don’t eat it!

1. Hen-of-the-Woods

• Scientific name: Grifola frondosa
• Average size: 6 to 15.5 inches in diameter
• Can be found: in oak forests
• Edible: Yes

The hen-of-the-woods is a tree-growing mushroom species that shares some traits with its relative, the chicken-of-the-woods. They are two different species, however.

In Michigan, go hunting for hen-of-the-woods in oak and hardwood forests during late summer and fall. They live on dead, dying, and living trees.

The cap of the hen-of-the-woods ranges from 6 to 15.5 inches across. It’s wavy and multi-layered because the caps are clustered.

The texture is smooth and dusky brown. When cut apart, the flesh is solid and white.

2. Oyster Mushroom

• Scientific name: Pleurotus ostreatus
• Average size: 1 to 6.5 inches in diameter
• Can be found: in aspen groves
• Edible: Yes

The Oyster mushrooms are highly visible edible mushrooms that grow in the forests of Michigan. In the state, you’re most likely to see them in aspen forests. They have barely any stem and look like a cap is simply growing right out of the tree’s bark.

The light brown or white cap is 1 to 6.5 inches in diameter and they are relatively smooth to the touch. After harvesting this mushroom, don’t eat the stem. The flesh is white and tastes neutral.

They grow in clusters on living trees. Cooking these mushrooms is a simple task. They make a great side dish, especially as the weather gets colder.

3. Honey Mushroom

• Scientific name: Armillaria mellea
• Average size: 1¼ to 4¾ inches in diameter
• Can be found: hardwood forests
• Edible: Yes

The honey mushroom is a hardwood-reliant, tan or white mushroom that grows in forests. Michigan is the honey mushroom’s western range limit. It grows most often near the Great Lakes region in prolific clusters shaped almost like floral bouquets.

The mushroom’s cap measures between 1¼ to 4¾ inches across. The size changes depending on what part of the cluster the individual fruiting body grows in.

They are mild-tasting and have very pronounced fibrous gills on the underside of the caps. Notice a ring around the stem to identify them.

4. Bear’s Head Tooth Mushroom

• Scientific name: Hericium americanum
• Average size: 6 to 7¾ inches long
• Can be found: on living and dead deciduous trees
• Edible: Yes

In Michigan, the bear’s head tooth mushroom can be found in undisturbed forests. It grows directly from dead trees, stumps, and even living trees. While most recorded specimens were discovered on deciduous trees, others have been found on evergreen trees.

Bear’s head teeth have no circular caps like other mushrooms do. Instead, they grow in a linear pattern similar to a tree branch. Most average between 6 to 7¾ inches long.

On the ‘branch’ are hundreds of tiny frondlike spines. The full effect was similar enough to appear like the jawbone of a bear, which is how the mushroom got its name.

5. Golden Chanterelle

• Scientific name: Cantharellus cibarius
• Average size: 1 to 4 inches in diameter
• Can be found: in forests and near recently burned areas
• Edible: Yes

The Golden chanterelle mushrooms are a great starting point if you’re learning to forage. In Michigan, golden chanterelles grow in forests with abundant deciduous trees, such as the upper peninsula and the northern lower peninsula.

The cap of the golden chanterelle is between 1 and 4 inches across. It has wavy edges and the whole mushroom is funnel-shaped.

When foraging for this fungi, you will probably smell it before you see it. Its primary trait is its strong smell. Observers say the mushroom’s aroma is of apricots and citrus.

6. Dryad’s Saddle

• Scientific name: Polyporus squamosus
• Average size: 2 to 12 inches across
• Can be found: in hardwood forests
• Edible: Yes

The dryad’s saddle is a creatively named mushroom that sprouts from the trunks of dead or living trees in early spring. It’s one of the first mushrooms you’ll see when foraging for fungi in Michigan. While looking for morels, it’s a great idea to keep an eye out for the dryad’s saddle too.

Most of this mushroom consists of a large cap that ranges from 2 inches to up to a foot across! The external texture is scaly and its color is light brown or warm tan. They are pretty thin like a pancake and the flesh is white when cut apart.

7. Black Morel

• Scientific name: Morchella angusticeps
• Average size: 1 to 3 inches tall
• Can be found: in forests near dying hardwood trees
• Edible: Yes

If you aren’t looking for a golden chanterelle, chances are you’re probably looking for a morel. Morels are great mushrooms to cook with. They add a wild, nutty flavor to dishes, not to mention a little luxury too.

In Michigan, hunt for morels in the spring. They grow in high-moisture environments near dying hardwood trees.

The caps are taller than they are wide. Most caps measure about 1 to 3 inches tall, but only 2 inches wide.

They are dusky brown and dark inside all of the folding and honeycomb patterning. The stem is chunky for how small the cap is, and sometimes it looks disproportionate.

8. Short-stemmed Russula

• Scientific name: Russula brevipes
• Average size: 2 ¼ to 7 ¾ inches across
• Can be found: under needles in coniferous forests, esp. Douglas Fir
• Edible: Yes

The short-stemmed russula is a mushroom of variety. It adapts to different tree types, can grow alone or in groups, and grows from summer into late fall and even winter, if it’s warm. In Michigan, it can be found underneath piles of pine needles.

The caps measure from 2 ¼ to 7 ¾ inches in diameter. They’re usually tilted in a saddle-like shape. They’re thick and well supported by a robust stem.

While these mushrooms are edible, they need a lot of seasoning because they can sometimes be bitter. Mushroom hunters often let them alone until they transform into lobster mushrooms thanks to infestations of another fungus.

Non-edible Mushrooms

These mushrooms cannot be eaten. Some are inert and can’t be eaten, but some are toxic and have the potential to cause hallucinations or even death. Do not eat any of the mushrooms on this part of the list.

9. Death Angel Mushroom

• Scientific name: Amanita bisporigera
• Average size: 1 to 4 inches across
• Can be found: growing from the ground in mixed forests
• Edible: No. TOXIC

The death angel mushroom is aptly named; it’s one of the most deadly mushroom species in the world. Consumption of this mushroom results in poisoning from amatoxins, which attack the liver and kidneys. In Michigan, find this mushroom during the summer and fall in coniferous or deciduous forests.

Death angels have a cap averaging 1 to 4 inches in diameter. It is smooth and white, as is the rest of the mushroom.

However, there is a baglike volva around the base of the fungus and a small, scarflike ring near the top. They grow in groups and have many closely spaced gills.

10. Panther Mushroom

• Scientific name: Amanita pantherina
• Average size: 1 to 7 inches in diameter
• Can be found: near conifers and pines
• Edible: No. TOXIC

The Panther mushrooms are common throughout the northern United States, including Michigan. Unfortunately, they’re extremely toxic so they should never be harvested or handled. They grow in Michigan’s pine forests because they have a symbiotic relationship with the fungi in the trees’ roots.

A panther mushroom’s cap feels scaly and measures between 1 and 7 inches across. The small scales fall off when touched. They are somewhat bulbous and form a squat figure against the dirt from where they grow.

11. False Morel Mushroom

• Scientific name: Gyromitra esculenta
• Average size: 2¼ to 6 in diameter
• Can be found: underneath conifers
• Edible: No. TOXIC

The False morel mushrooms look similar to true morels so they were named to tell the two species apart. Unfortunately, false morels are poisonous and pose a health risk to humans. In Michigan, you can find false morels in the springtime in pine forests.

Don’t be scared about telling them apart from true morels. It only takes a little practice. False morels have extremely wrinkled, ‘brainlike’ caps 2¼ to 6 inches across.

Their stems are proportionally very small compared to true morels. Lastly, they are reddish, not cool brown like true morels.

12. Eastern Jack O’Lantern

• Scientific name: Omphalotus illudens
• Average size: 2” to 4” in diameter.
• Can be found: in forests
• Edible: No. TOXIC

The eastern Jack O’Lantern’s creative name comes from its bright orange color. This is a sign for all mushroom foragers to stay away: this mushroom is highly toxic. It contains a poisonous compound called illudin, which destroys the human body’s ability to replicate DNA.

Eastern Jack O’Lanterns grow in highly layered shelf-like aggregates. An individual mushroom’s cap measures between 2 and 4 inches in diameter.

The outer edge is slightly frayed and darker orange. Lastly, the mushroom has another interesting trait: it glows in the dark!

13. Autumn Skullcap

• Scientific name: Galerina marginata
• Average size: ½ to 1 ½ inch in diameter
• Can be found: on dying conifers
• Edible: No. TOXIC

The autumn skullcap is known by many names, including the funeral bell and the deadly galerina. The names all describe the same mushroom, which is extremely poisonous. In Michigan, it can be found in dense forests, especially ones with a high percentage of conifers.

The cap is folded inward so that the outer edge is underneath the umbrella of the mushroom. This edge curls outward as the mushroom ages.

Normally, caps range between ½ to 1½ inches across. Be careful when searching for mushrooms similar to the autumn skullcap. Most deaths have been due to cases of mistaken identity.

14. Death Cap Mushroom

• Scientific name: Amanita phalloides
• Average size: 2.25” to 6” in diameter
• Can be found: Oak forests
• Edible: No. TOXIC

The Death caps are extremely toxic mushroom species that grow in Michigan’s oak-dominated forests. They can grow in groups or alone, but they’re almost always around oak trees. If you see one of these mushrooms, leave it alone.

The mushroom’s white or gray cap is about 2 ¼ to 6 inches across. It drapes down like a small umbrella.

There’s also a growth around the base that looks like a bag; this growth is called a volva. The stem also has a crumpled ring that is level with the outer edge of the umbrella.

After spending enough time in the field, aiming at and leading a duck may become second nature. You pull up, know where to shoot, and make a clean shot. This comes with many trial and errors and empty shotgun hulls without much to show for them. In this article, I’ll talk about the science behind how far to lead a duck, and how much margin for error there is.

A shooter needs to lead a duck by .24-5.16 feet to make a clean shot. The two distinct variables that determine how far each duck should be led by are: How far away the duck is, and how fast the duck is flying.

How to aim at a duck

Flight speed and lead distance

How far to lead a duck at 20 yards

How far to lead a duck at 30 yards

How far to lead a duck at 40 yards

Is is hard to shoot a duck?

*Note: as you’ll see later in the article, choke tube selection does not determine the distance a duck should be led by, but instead impacts the margin of error that a hunter can miss by.

How to aim at and lead a duck

To correctly aim at a duck, a hunter must shoot far enough in front of it to allow for the time delay between when the pellets leave the barrel of the gun, and when they arrive at the duck. The distance of how far to lead a duck by is determined by how far away from the hunter the duck is, and how fast the duck is flying.

I was interested in the math and science behind how far to lead a duck (I know, you can say it, I can get a little nerdy sometimes), so I started digging into the numbers. I learned a lot in the process and thought it was interesting enough to publish my findings. Scroll to the bottom of this article to see the calculations and equations I used to create these tables and charts.

Charts showing how far to lead a duck by

The tables below show the midpoint for leading a duck depending upon its flight speed. This represents how far you would need to aim ahead of the duck so it ends up in the exact middle of your pellet pattern. You don’t have to shoot spot on this midpoint to make a clean kill shot, meaning there is some margin of error which is discussed later in this article.

A duck that’s getting ready to land (flying 5 mph)

A duck that’s making an approach (flying 15 mph)

A duck flying by (flying 25 mph)

A duck making a fast pass (flying 40 mph)

Is it hard to shoot a duck?

Shotguns that shoot several pellets at the same time are used to hunt ducks, so there’s a margin of error both ahead of, and behind the midpoint, that would still allow for a clean kill shot. This margin of error is primarily determined by the choke tube used.

In some situations, like when the duck is getting ready to land, it can be easy to shoot a duck. On the other hand, if the bird is further away (30 yards or more), and flying fast (faster than 25 mph), it can be very challenging.

Chart showing inches you could shoot either ahead of or behind a duck and still make a clean kill shot using various choke tubes:

Calculations used in the experiment

There are numerous small variables in every hunting situation. They can’t all be accounted for, so I used the following assumptions for a control baseline in my calculations:

Check out our article about best shot sizes for ducks

• #2 Steele shot traveling 1365 fps
• 12 gauge 30 inch barrel
• Shotgun is patterned correctly
• Light/no wind
• No rain
• Average size duck

Equations used in article

Equation used for midpoint: (B/C) * A = X

A= speed (fps) the duck is traveling at: fps converted from mph

B= distance (ft) from duck (ft): Yards converted to ft

C= pellet speed (fps)

D= time (seconds) for pellets to reach target: (B/C)

X = Distance to lead duck by

Margin for error (inches) equation =

(Size of pellet spread that contains 65-70% of pellets at specified distance in ft) / (2)

Considerations that might impact my results:

• Using a smaller shot size would mean it would take more than 65% to 70% of the shell’s pellets to bring a duck down
• The longer the gun barrel, the tighter the pellet pattern. This can reduce the margin of error while increasing the effective distance
• Shotgun shells with slower/faster pellet speeds would increase/decrease how far a duck would need to be let by
• Larger ducks usually take more/larger pellets to bring down
• Using a 20 gauge would decrease the effective rage

Find the Ducks!

Initial Impression “Are we hiking or are we hunting?” is a refrain I hear all too often at elk camp, usually as I charge up a mountain to warm my frozen toes. But if I sit down, the snacks and crinkly wrappers come out. Then we’re really not hunting. Enter the fully-insulated Beartooth 200g boot from Schnee’s. I’ll finally be able to sit still for a few minutes this fall—and they’re damn good for hiking, too.

Break-In Like most hunters in the area, my list of places to explore burgeons faster than I can cross spots off. This summer, I made it a priority to start checking out my areas of interest, most of which were high-alpine basins—the kind frequented by big mule deer bucks. Lacing up my new boots, I figured I could knock out two birds with one stone: find some big ol’ bucks, and break in my Beartooths. After dozens of miles, I accomplished only the latter. The deer proved elusive, but my boots are comfortable as ever.

Now, when I slip on my leathers, it’s like sitting down for a home-cooked pot roast after a cold winter day in the woods. I almost want to let out a sigh of relief. They’re comfortable and familiar, the leather melded perfectly to the shape of my feet. They almost feel like an extension of my body. I’ve tried dozens of different styles over the years, and finding the Goldilocks boot is an eternal challenge. But thanks to the Beartooth, I’ve finally found my new go-to.

What I Like The thing I appreciate most about the Beartooth is the soft sole (a flex two rating, on Schnee’s four-point scale). There’s been a push amongst major boot brands lately to make lighter weight boots with extremely stiff soles. Essentially, adapting alpine sheep-hunting boots to elk hunting—which results in boots that are fine for steep, rocky terrain, but not ideal for long hikes. For high-mileage situations, softer soles are the key to comfy feet. Think about it: trail-running shoes and everyday hiking boots have a large amount of flex, but are rigid in a few key spots. Those features make them comfortable to hike or run long distances in, and give the shoes better ground contact. The Beartooth feel like a sturdier, insulated version of a summer hiking boot or trail runner, making them ideal for hiking long distances in rain, snow, or shine.

The other thing I’ve noticed is how Schnee’s cleverly avoided a common pinch point that forms on the front of most mid-calf hunting boots. Instead of a single piece of rigid leather along the heel (like most other brands), the Beartooth’s have an oval-shaped soft spot stitched into the back. When the boot flexes as I hike, the leather compresses in that spot, eliminating any kind of pinching on the front—pretty clever, Schnee’s!

A Quality Boot Finally, the overall build quality of these boots jumps out immediately. Not a single stitch is out of place, and the leather is top-quality. I’ve been rocking a pair of uninsulated Beartooths for three seasons now (with heavy use) and haven’t encountered a single issue. And, the longer I wear them, the comfier they get—to the point of dreading taking them off at the end of the day in camp. I know that the 200g version is going to perform similarly this fall, even on the coldest of days in the Montana high country or on the prairie.

$480; schnees.com.

You know the drill: Pull out the bag. Untangle the tent. Snap the poles together. Fumble with keeping one side still while you try to secure the other. Setting up your tent is kind of a chore, if we’re being honest. Same goes for putting it away, except now it’s also dirty, and probably wet, too.

Instant tents change all that by cutting your setup and break down time down to as low as 60 seconds. These are the most convenient shelters money can buy, and will elevate your car camping experience by giving you more time to focus on enjoying the wilderness around you.

With that being said, finding the right instant tent can be as much of a chore as pitching a regular one. Lucky for you, we’ve already spent countless hours researching and analyzing all the best and most popular models out there so you don’t have to.

Our favorite instant tent currently available is the Caddis Rapid 4 instant cabin. We love the Caddis because it combines a large interior and stand-up height ceilings with upgraded materials, reliable weatherproofing, and a fast-as-lightning setup.

We’ll dig into the details of instant tents in our buyer’s guide down at the bottom to help you decide if the Caddis Rapid 4 is the right tent for you. If it isn’t, that’s ok: We’ve also included several other popular models in our list below, so you’re sure to find the right size and style tent for your next outing down there somewhere.

All right, let’s talk instant tents.

Best Instant Tents

Caddis Rapid 4 Tent: Best Overall

Specs:– Weight: 20.5 lbs lbs (9.3 kg)– Packed size: 50” x 9” x 9” (127cm x 23cm x 23cm)– Floor size: 96” x 96” (244cm x 244cm) – Peak height: 80” (203cm)– Rooms: 1– Shape: Cabin– Occupancy: 4 (6 also available)– Best for: Three season camping– Price: $

Taking our top honors as the best instant tent overall is the Caddis Rapid 4, a well-rounded shelter that combines simplicity, performance, and durability, and does it all at a price that’s tough to beat

The Caddis follows the same essential design of the classic Coleman Instant Cabin below with its lightning-fast attached pole design and large square floorplan, but then adds in all the things Coleman left out in the name of cost-savings. That includes a nice long rainfly, an open mesh ceiling for sunny days and clear nights, and stand-up height ceilings throughout the interior.

We also love that Caddis cuts no corners in terms of material quality and durability here. The Rapid 4 uses a thicker 190D polyester taffeta in its canopy, the same fabric in the rainfly, and an even thicker 210D polyester in the floor. This instant tent also benefits from upgraded hardware, and we’re particularly impressed by the Caddis’ 21mm thick steel poles.

As far as instant tents go, this is a tough one to complain about, especially if you’re considering the classic Coleman Instant Cabin below, which is easily its closest competitor. The materials are thicker, the floor is larger, the ceilings are higher, and a large rainfly is included for the price. Of course that price is a bit higher than the Coleman, which would be the only real drawback for us, but if you’ve got the extra cash to spend, you really can’t go wrong here.

Gazelle GT400R T4: Highest Quality Instant Tent Overall

Specs:– Weight: 32 lbs ( 14.5 kg)- Packed size: 67” x 8” x 8” (170 cm x 20cm x 20cm)- Floor size: 94” x 94” (239cm x 239cm)- Peak height: 78” (198cm)- Rooms: 1- Shape: Cabin- Occupancy: 4- Best for: Three season camping for two- Price: $$$

Taking our top spot for highest overall quality is the latest Gazelle T4 instant tent, the Gazelle GT400R T4.

The T4 gets our vote for its highly durable materials, which include rugged 210D polyester fabric in both the canopy and rainfly, a full 300D oxford polyester material in the floor, and YKK zippers on every door and window.

Interestingly enough, the Gazelle is the first tent with fiberglass poles The Wise Adventurer has ever given the “highest quality” designation, but in Gazelle’s case, there’s a reason for it. Gazelle tents use a unique “pop-out hub” design for their tents, which consists of a sturdy metal hub at the center of each wall or roof panel attached to four independent poles connected to each of the four corners. By using fiberglass, Gazelle is able to get enough flexibility out of their tent frames to allow them to bend under tension without breaking, which makes the freestanding hub design possible. You’ll definitely want to stake out the Gazelle from every angle, but the pole material isn’t a quality concern in this case.

Aside from the unique (and incredibly easy to pitch) pop-out design, the Gazelle T4 has a few other standout features. For one, it’s a four-person tent with two separate doors, which always earns bonus points in our book. It’s also got well over six feet of headroom inside, and tons of interior space due to the convex shape of the walls. Ventilation is solid thanks to six interior windows and a mesh roof, and storage is plentiful with four large interior pockets and a mesh gear loft.

Our main complaint with the Gazelle T4 is that although its removable floor is convenient for cleaning, it’s also attached using velcro. Granted, the velcro is thick, and the T4 holds up just fine during rain, but you’ll want to be careful about where you pitch this tent as it’s just not built to keep standing puddles of water at bay.

Teton Sports Vista 2 Person Quick Tent: Best On A Budget

Specs:– Weight: 6.3 lbs (2.9 kg)- Packed size: 33” x 7” x 7” (84cm x 18cm x 18cm)- Floor size: 82” x 60” (208cm x 152cm)- Peak height: 41” (104cm)- Rooms: 1- Shape: Dome- Occupancy: 2 (1 person also available)- Best for: Portable shelter for 1-2 persons- Price: $

Want a fast-pitching tent but don’t need a ton of space? Check out the Teton Sports Vista Quick Tent.

The Vista is essentially a classic backpacking-style tent that uses a pre-attached pole design where you’d normally find a standard collapsible pole set. Set-up is pretty cool to watch, as you just unfold the tent then pull the drawstring and watch the tent magically spring into shape.

Pretty much everything else about the Teton Sports Vista is classic backpacking tent style, including the tall tub-style waterproof floor, the lightweight mesh ceiling, and the seam-sealed rainfly. This tent comes in both one and two-person models, but we prefer the two-person for the extra space, and love that Teton sports included double doors for the Vista to add livability for two.

We don’t really have any complaints with the Teton other than the limitations of its size and weight. At just over 6 pounds, it’s a little too heavy for serious backpacking duty, especially considering it can’t be meaningfully split between two hikers due to the pre-attached pole design. On the other end of the spectrum, it’s smaller than your average car camping tent, although it will comfortably sleep two just fine. Still, if you like the sound of a compact tent that goes up in about 60 seconds, this one won’t break the bank.

Core 9 Person Instant Cabin

Specs:– Weight: 27.6 lbs (12.5 kg)- Packed size: 48” x 11” x 12” (122cm x 28cm x 30cm)- Floor size: 168” x 108” (427cm x 274cm)- Peak height: 78” (198cm)- Rooms: 2- Shape: Cabin- Occupancy: 9 (12 person also available)- Best for: Large family/group camping- Price: $$

Core camping tents have become widely popular in recent years, and the Core 9 is a great example of why people love them. It’s a huge tent with two rooms, two doors, tons of floor space, and stand-up ceilings.

Setup is a breeze thanks to the pre-attached hubbed pole design, meaning all you have to do is unfold this instant tent and then extend its telescoping steel legs into place. Weatherproofing is solid all-around thanks to Core’s “H2O Block” technology, which uses a combination of heat-sealed seams and water-resistant fabric to keep the wet at bay.

Several long-term owners report weathering many a rainy night without a single drop getting into the Core 9, and surprisingly the Core even does well in moderate winds (25-30 mph) despite its near-vertical walls and tall stature.

Complaints with the Core 9 are minor, but our biggest one is the use of 68D polyester fabric throughout the tent. Sure, it’s much stronger than your average backpacking tent, but it’s also lower than several of the other instant tents on our roundup.

Our second gripe is with the windows and doors. The Core 9 has plenty of nice big windows, but there aren’t any toggles to roll them up and secure them to when you want to open them up, so they just hang down. It’s far from a deal-breaker, and the Core remains a great tent to have!

Zempire Pronto 5 V2

Specs:– Weight: 32.3 lbs (14.7 kg)– Packed size: 28” x 16” x 10” (71cm x 41cm x 25cm)– Floor size: 109” x 109” (277cmx 277cm)– Peak height: 75” (191cm)– Rooms: 1– Shape: Dome– Occupancy: 5– Best for: Three season camping– Price: $$$

While most instant tents find a clever way to get their poles up as quickly as possible, the folks at Zempire do things their own way. Specifically, they throw out the poles altogether, and replace them with rigid inflatable beams.

This means pitching the Zempire Pronto 5 is as simple as staking it out and then pumping it up, and the entire production can be done in under three minutes with one person after a practice run or two. The same goes for taking it down, and thanks to Zempire’s use of multiple deflation points along the tent’s airframe, it takes about as long as putting away your favorite sleeping pad.

Aside from the unique airframe design, we’ve also gotta give Zempire some props for making one of the most well-ventilated tents on the market. Four massive zippable windows (and a full mesh ceiling) convert the Pronto 5 from a dark cave that’s ideal for sleeping into an open and airy screen room that competes with the best in the business. A reliable rainfly with dual vestibule storage rounds out the package, and we’re particularly fond of the massive convertible awning Zempire worked into the fly at the front door.

In terms of drawbacks, the main issue with the Zempire Pronto 5 is that the futuristic airbeam technology comes at a premium price, making this one of the more expensive tents on the market. We’ll also note that while the Zempire’s durability is outstanding overall (the entire tent is covered by a 2-year warranty), they still use fiberglass poles to prop up the sides of the fly for added ventilation, and at this price, aluminum DAC poles don’t seem like too much to ask for.

Coleman 4-Person Cabin with Instant Setup

Specs:– Weight: 18.2 lbs (8.3 kg)- Packed size: 40” x 8” x 8” (102cm x 20cm x 20cm)- Floor size: 96” x 84” (244cm x 213cm)- Peak height: 59” (150cm)- Rooms: 1- Shape: Cabin- Occupancy: 4 (6 and 10 person versions also available)- Best for: Fair weather camping for two- Price: $

Few instant tents deliver on their claims for setup time, but the Coleman 4-Person Cabin literally goes up in under 60 seconds. Just pull the tent out of the back, unfold it, and extend the poles. You’re done. There’s no rainfly to mess with, no vestibules to stake out, and no accessories to set up.

And while the fast and easy character of the Coleman is a selling point for many, we’ll also give this instant tent props for its surprisingly durable materials. Coleman specs their instant cabin with all-aluminum poles as well as tough 150D polyester fabric in both the single-wall canopy and tub-style tent floor. The zippers are a little lackluster, and we wouldn’t trust the guylines in any serious storms, but at a price this low, we’re willing to overlook those details.

And while the price is fantastic, the budget build comes with a few shortcomings you’ll want to be aware of. First, the tent uses an “integrated rainfly” rather than a separate/full coverage style fly. That means that the water-resistant outer fabric can’t be removed, which limits the amount of stargazing you’re able to do on clear nights. That also means the tent has no vestibule to shield the entrance from rain, and that the Coleman Cabin’s weatherproofing relies entirely on its canopy construction. Some owners report getting through extended rains without issue, while others experience the occasional leak. All things considered, we recommend adding an additional waterproofing treatment to this instant tent before taking it out in the field.

Bushnell Shield Series 9 Person Instant Cabin

Specs:– Weight: 44lbs (20kg)- Packed size: 42” x 24” x 24” (106cm x 61cm x 61cm)- Floor size: 15’ x 9’ (457cm x 274cm)- Peak height: 78” (198cm)- Number of rooms: 2- Shape: Cabin- Occupancy: 9 (12 person also available)- Best for: All-weather three-season family/group camping- Price: $$$

The Bushnell Shield Series 9 is a spacious instant tent that’s got all the features you want in a plus-sized shelter. We’re talking two separate doors, two separate rooms (using the included divider), plenty of integrated storage for as many people as you want to host, and enough ventilation to keep it comfortable through three seasons.

We’re also big fans of the tough 150D polyester fabric that Bushnell uses throughout the body of the Shield instant tent. We’re talking floor, canopy, rainfly: Everything. That same quality is continued through the instant/preattached pole design, as Bushnell uses aluminum poles throughout the Shield’s construction.

Setup for the Bushnell Shield 9 is as simple as it gets. Just take it out of the bag, unfold it, then extend each of the four corner poles to its full height. Throw the rainfly on if you’re expecting any questionable weather, or leave it off for maximum ventilation from the fully-mesh ceiling.

Speaking of the rainfly (and questionable weather), weatherproofing is the only semi-common complaint we’ve heard about the Bushnell Shield series. On the one hand, the rainfly design is great, provides ample coverage, and even features a reflective backing that keeps the interior cooler in hot summer months. On the other hand, some customers report moisture getting past the rainfly and making its way into the tent. Bushnell builds their entire Shield line with fully-taped and sealed seams as well as water-repellant fabric, but it seems to struggle with extended or wind-blown rainfall. We recommend hitting the main canopy with an extra layer of waterproofing, and taking extra care to properly tension the included rainfly if you’re expecting any serious weather.

Moon Lence Instant Pop Up Tent

Specs:– Weight: 10.3 lbs (4.6 kg)- Packed size: 33” x 7” x 7” (83cm x 18cm X 18cm)- Floor size: 114” x 121” (290cm x 308cm)- Peak height: 52” (133cm)- Rooms: 1- Shape: Dome- Occupancy: 4 person- Best for: Light use in good weather- Price: $

While the Moon Lence Instant Po Up Tent wouldn’t be our first choice for a shelter (or even our first choice on a budget), it is the least expensive instant tent money can buy.

This tent is severely limited by its budget build (we’ll get into that down below), but it’s got a few highlights worth mentioning as well. First, the pop-up design is as simple as they come, and only takes about a minute to unfold and click into place. Second, we were pleasantly surprised to find that the Moon Lence Instant Pop Up specs a thick 210D oxford polyester floor, which is as solid as it is waterproof.

Unfortunately, water tends to fall from the sky rather than the ground, and the rest of the tent isn’t built to handle any wetness outside of a mild to heavy fog. The zippers leak, the seams leak, and the rainfly is just a strange little hat that covers up the hub for the tent poles.

Speaking of the tent poles, the Moon Lence uses thin fiberglass poles mounted to cheap plastic hubs, neither of which is going to hold up to any serious wind or the test of time. Ultimately this instant tent is better suited as a backyard play place for children or an easy-up sunshade for beachgoers. Still, if you only camp once or twice a year on clear sunny days and don’t want to invest in a serious shelter, the Moon Lence is a small investment with an even smaller learning curve.

Coleman Tenaya Lake Fast Pitch Cabin Tent

Specs:– Weight: 33.2 lbs (15.1 kg)- Packed size: 40” x 12” x 12” (102cm x 30cm x 30cm)- Floor size: 156” x 84” (396cm x 213cm)- Peak height: 80” (203cm)- Rooms: 2- Shape: Cabin- Occupancy: 6 (8 person also available)- Best for: Three season family camping- Price: $$

The Coleman Tenaya Lake is a back-to-basics style instant tent with some unique extra features built-in.

We say “back-to-basics” because with the Tenaya Lake, Coleman takes the old-school approach to fast setup, opting for a central hub design using detachable poles rather than the standard pre-attached/permanently attached designs. Some owners look at this as a con, but personally, we’re fans of the design. That’s because without fixed hubs, it’s less prone to failure, and should anything happen to break you can replace the parts instead of replacing the entire tent.

As far as unique features go, our favorite is probably the dual “gear cabinets” on the Coleman Tenaya Lake. These pop-out organizers are permanently attached to the tent about where the “headboards” of two air mattresses would be, and give you a place to stash your gear and essentials without taking up any floor space. It’s like vestibule storage with 360-degree protection from the elements.

This Coleman instant tent also comes with a fully-framed free-swinging door for entry and exit, which stays shut using velcro during the day for easy access, but can be fully sealed using a zipper from inside as well.

As far as cons go, we’ve got a few complaints with the Coleman Tenaya that we’ll share. First and foremost, Coleman’s “Fast Pitch” design is much quicker than your average tent of this size, but it’s not nearly as fast or easy as the pre-attached pole and hub designs you’ll see elsewhere on our list. You’re probably looking at about a ten-minute setup once you get used to pitching the Tenaya Lake.

Some customers also report a few drips making their way past Coleman’s “Weathertec” system and into their living space. Other customers report the exact opposite, so we recommend taking this tent for a shakedown in the backyard before actually sleeping in it out in the woods. An extra water-resistant treatment won’t hurt anything either.

Instant Tents Buyer’s Guide

What Is An Instant Tent?

Put simply, an instant tent is any tent that’s been designed with the easiest setup possible in mind. Typically, that means the tent poles are already attached to the both through one mechanism or another, and you won’t need to spend any time putting them together or threading them through loops, hoops, or sleeves.

Manufacturers use a few different strategies to achieve these easy-pitching tents, so let’s dig into the specifics to find which is right for you.

Instant Tents vs Pop-up Tents:

These two terms get used interchangeably sometimes, but they’re actually two very different things.

Interestingly enough, if one of these types really deserves to be called “instant” it’s going to be pop-up tents. That’s because pop-up tents literally go up instantly, requiring zero effort on your part. Their entire pole system is under constant tension, which is held back by restraining straps when not in use. Undue the straps, and your tent instantly “pops” into its correct shape, leaving you to simply stake it into the ground and call it a day. If you’ve ever used a spring-loaded sun visor for your automobile, the design should be familiar to you.

Ultimately instant tents are much better suited for serious camping though, as the simplified nature of pop-up tents doesn’t lend itself to reliable performance in bad weather. We strongly prefer putting an extra minute or two into setting up an instant tent, especially considering they’re designed to go up as easily as possible while still providing a reliable frame. You’re still saving a ton of time and effort over traditional tent pole systems, and you’ll be happy you did if the weather goes south.

Ease Of Set-up

A fast and simple setup/take-down is the main selling point of just about any instant tent. There are a few things to keep an eye out for when shopping, however.

The first and most important is that just because a manufacturer says their tent is easy to set up doesn’t mean it’s true. You’ll often see claims that the best instant tents can be set up with one person, set up in 60 seconds, or maybe even both. For some instant tents that may be accurate, but for others, it’s far from the truth.

The best way to determine an instant tent’s ease of set-up (aside from actually pitching it yourself) is to find a video of the tent being pitched in real-time. Not all manufacturers supply one, and those that do have a habit of making setup look easier than it is, but watching someone else pitch the tent in question takes a lot of the guesswork out of the buying process.

Portability: Weight And Packed Size/Shape

Instant tents tend to be a bit larger and heavier than traditional tents of the same size. That’s due to their attached frame designs, which typically incorporate hinges or hubs that add weight and bulk to the overall size of the tent.

That means instant tents aren’t a viable choice for backpacking, so weight and packed size only need be limited by your ability to transport, carry, and store your instant tent. Larger “cabin-style” instant tents add bulk as they add room, so if you’re considering getting a four-person or larger size, you’ll definitely want to confirm that the total packed size will fit in your car or truck (along with all your other gear) before purchasing.

Weather Protection

Try as we might to plan our camping trips around good weather, if you sleep outdoors for long enough, you’re going to deal with some rain.

That’s where good weather protection comes into play, and this is one of the features that separates a good tent from a bad purchase. There are a few basic indicators you should be familiar with that keep a tent watertight.

The first is the use of fully taped/sealed seams in a tent’s construction. Taped/sealed seams prevent water from creeping in through the vulnerable spaces between overlapping materials. The best instant tents will use sealed seams throughout their construction, while more budget-conscious models typically feature them in the rainfly and/or tent floor, but don’t include them in the tent canopy.

The second factor is water-repellant treatments. Ofter referred to as “DWR” coatings (short for “durable water repellant”), these treatments add additional protection to the natural water repellency of materials like polyester, and increase a tent’s wet-weather performance all-around. As an added bonus, these coatings can be purchased separately and applied to your tent to bolster wet weather protection from the factory.

Ventilation And Condensation

Like any other camping tent, ventilation plays a major role in keeping your tent comfortable year-round.

In the summer months, good ventilation allows a tent to create a cross-draft, pulling cooler air into the tent from outside while pushing the hot air accumulating inside the tent back out.

In the cooler months, when your tent typically stays fully covered under the vestibule to keep heat inside, ventilation plays the important role of managing condensation build-up. That’s because as you sleep, you constantly exhale warm, moisture-rich air into the tent. Over the course of the night, this moisture builds up inside the tent, and collects on the tent ceiling. Good ventilation helps this moisture evaporate before it builds up and starts to pool.

Durability

All the usual rules on tent durability apply to instant tents, but there are also some unique ones you’ll need to consider.

First off are the tent materials themselves, which include both the fabrics used in the tent body as well as the poles used in the tent frame. Instant tents also typically include some form of hinge or hub in their design, which you’ll want to consider carefully as they can be potential points of failure.

Tent fabrics are typically synthetic materials like nylon or polyester whose durability is mainly dependent on their overall weight/thickness. If you want to get a good idea of the durability of a tent’s fabric, just look for the “denier” rating assigned to the canopy, floor, and rainfly.

Denier, which is typically expressed as the letter “D” after a number (like 30D, 70D etc), tells you the durability of a given fabric. So with all other factors equal, a tent with a 50D polyester canopy will be more durable than one with a 30D polyester canopy.

Sturdy fabrics are important, but they aren’t much use without quality tent poles to hold them up. The best instant tent poles are made from metal, with aluminum typically being the highest quality and steel being a heavier but similarly durable choice.

As tents go down in price, you’ll start to see them use poles made from fiberglass as well. Some tents use fiberglass in low-stress areas to keep both the cost and overall weight of the tent down, while others use them throughout the tent’s construction. Generally speaking, the less fiberglass you can get in your setup the better, as these poles are much more prone to breaking under stress from factors like wind and rain.

Conclusion

For all the factors described above, we found the Caddis Rapid 4 to be the best all-around instant tent for its outstanding durability, lofty ceilings, and fast and drama-free setup. The price of the Caddis Rapid 4 certainly didn’t hurt its case either.

Of course if the Caddis still isn’t fast enough for you, we recommend considering the Gazelle T4. There’s just no faster way to set up a full-sized tent than Gazelle’s pop-out hub design, and both the T4’s canopy and floor fabrics double down on durability, delivering some of the thickest and most abrasion-resistant materials in our lineup.

And, if you’re looking to go fast-and-light or just want a great instant tent on a budget, we’re big fans of the Teton Sports Vista and its backpacking-style take on the pop-up tent category. If you want to learn more about how to set-up the perfect campsite, don’t forget to check out our camping checklist!

Introduction

Sharpshooting, a skillful and precision-driven sport, has gained immense popularity among shooting enthusiasts. At the heart of this thrilling activity lies the essence of accuracy and efficiency. Firebird Targets, a revolutionary addition to the sharpshooting world, have redefined the way shooters engage with their targets. In this article, we delve into how Firebird Targets significantly enhance the experience and skills of sharpshooters, with a particular focus on airguns, including the more powerful big bore air guns.

What are Firebird Targets?

Firebird Targets are not just a modern innovation in shooting sports; they are a game-changer. These targets, distinct in their design, incorporate a reactive substance that ignites with a bright flash and a loud bang upon impact. This reaction is more than just visually stimulating—it’s a direct, immediate indicator of a successful hit. The design of Firebird Targets is a blend of advanced materials and chemistry, ensuring that the ignition is safe and controlled. These targets are suitable for a variety of shooting environments, from controlled ranges to open outdoor settings, making them versatile for different shooting disciplines.

The Advantages of Using Firebird Targets with Airguns

The use of Firebird Targets with airgun, especially in precision shooting, brings a multitude of advantages:

• Enhanced Precision and Accuracy: The immediate feedback from Firebird Targets is a boon for precision shooters. It enables shooters to see and hear their success instantly, which is crucial for fine-tuning shooting skills.
• Training Efficiency: In training scenarios, this immediate feedback means less time spent checking targets and more time focused on shooting practice.
• Safety and Environmental Benefits: Beyond the thrill and training benefits, Firebird Targets are designed with safety as a priority. They are environmentally friendly, reducing the waste often associated with traditional paper or metal targets.

The Synergy between Big Bore Air Guns and Firebird Targets

When combined with big bore air guns, Firebird Target offers a unique and enhanced shooting experience. Big bore air guns, known for their significant power and larger caliber projectiles, are particularly well-suited for use with Firebird Targets. The high-powered impact of these airguns ensures a complete and spectacular reaction from the targets, providing an intense and satisfying experience for the shooter.

• Maximizing the Shooting Experience: The pairing of big bore air guns with Firebird Targets brings a new level of excitement to shooting practices. The visual and auditory feedback from the targets is amplified, making every shot feel impactful and rewarding.
• Skill Development and Training: For those practicing precision shooting, the combination of these airguns and targets provides an excellent platform for skill enhancement. The high-caliber impact offers a realistic and challenging environment for shooters to refine their accuracy and control.
• Real-World Applications: This pairing is also beneficial for hunters and tactical shooters who use big bore airguns. It offers a realistic training environment, replicating the conditions and feedback they would experience in real-world scenarios.

Practical Tips for Using Firebird Targets with Airguns

Optimizing the use of Firebird Targets with airguns involves several key considerations:

• Target Placement and Distance: Correct placement of Firebird Targets is crucial for safe and effective shooting. Consider the range and power of the airgun when determining the distance and arrangement of the targets.
• Target Maintenance and Longevity: While Firebird Targets are designed for durability, proper handling and storage will extend their life. Keep them in a cool, dry place when not in use.
• Shooting Techniques and Safety: Regardless of experience level, it’s important to prioritize safety when using these targets. This includes wearing appropriate protective gear and following standard shooting safety protocols. Additionally, shooters should focus on honing their shooting techniques to fully capitalize on the benefits of Firebird Targets.

Conclusion

The integration of Firebird Targets in sharpshooting has not just been a technological leap; it has been a transformation in the way we approach and understand precision shooting. These targets, with their instant feedback mechanism, have the potential to revolutionize training methods, making learning and improvement more accessible and efficient for shooters of all skill levels. The compatibility of these targets with airguns, particularly big bore air guns, further enhances their utility, providing an unmatched experience that is both thrilling and beneficial for skill development. As we look towards the future of sharpshooting, it is evident that innovations like Firebird Targets will continue to shape and evolve the sport. For enthusiasts, professionals, and novices alike, embracing these advancements means not only enjoying a more engaging shooting experience but also stepping into a new era of precision and excellence in the sport of sharpshooting.