I hear it often this time of year, “I need to get my bow tuned up” or “I’m having trouble getting my bow to tune.” Generally speaking, tuning a bow might seem mysterious or at least something that can only be done by your local pro shop. While your local pro shop is a great resource to get your bow tuned, tuning a bow is something that every bowhunter should at least understand and, in many cases, do themselves. So let’s talk about what tuning actually means.

How do you define a well-tuned bow?

For me, my ultimate goal is to deliver a broadhead-tipped arrow to the exact spot I intend it to hit. Specifically, I want it to hit at 20 yards all the way to 80 yards. I want the arrow to enter as straight as possible, cutting efficiently and carrying as much kinetic energy through as it can. I also want the bow to be a little bit forgiving to a slight tweak in my form in a less than perfect situation. I want it to hold well and be accurate. I also want to be able to spend the preseason months practicing with both field and broadhead-tipped arrows. I want them to hit together and I want my practice to build my confidence and confirm that my form and bow and arrow setup are as lethal as I can get them. That is what I consider a well-tuned bow. With that, let’s jump into how to tune a compound bow.

Some suggest that a bow has to “paper tune,” which is a visual indication of what an arrow is doing very quickly after it leaves the bow. Others discard paper tuning altogether and suggest that “bare shaft” tuning is the only way to properly tune. A few other types of tuning methods that are tossed around are “group tuning,” “broadhead tuning,” “walk-back tuning” and, perhaps, even torque tuning although that is addressing a more specific issue. Every method has its fans and its critics. Personally, I like to utilize multiple methods. By doing this, I gain greater confidence in my setup.

Nocking point, rest location and cam timing

Whether you are pulling a brand new bow out of the box or you are starting over and setting your bow up again from scratch, the first thing I like to do is bottom out both the top and bottom limbs. Next, I visually check for cam timing. By cam timing, I mean that both cams are in sync and both roll over at the same time. Well-timed cams allow the draw stops on each cam to contact the cables or limbs at exactly the same time. Many of the newer compound bows have indication marks or holes on the cams that you can look at to see if the cams are timed.

For example, my Mathews VXR has a hole on each cam that you can look at to see where the cable is in relation to the cam. Each cable centered visually through those holes tells me that the bow is likely in time. Cam timing is important. If one cam is reaching full rotation before the other, it will result in an arrow that, if receiving more rotation from one cam, results in an arrow that will show either high or low paper tears that you probably won’t be able to work out by moving your rest or nocking point. Long story short: do a quick check visually for cam timing before you even get started.

What if my cams are not in time?

Cam rotation can be manipulated by adding or even removing twists from the cables in order to get the draw stops hitting at the same time. If you twist a cable, you are effectively shortening it, thus increasing the distance the draw stop has to rotate to stop. Untwisting does the opposite — it lengthens the cable and reduces the distance of rotation for the draw stop to hit. I always try to utilize twisting cables or strings rather than untwisting. Also, be aware that the twisting and untwisting can have other impacts on draw length and draw weight.

Also at this point, I like to do a quick measure of the axle to axle length and the brace height to see if those measurements meet the manufacturer’s recommendations. Axle to axle is measured from the center of the top axle to the center of the bottom axle on the shelf side of the bow. Brace height is measured from the deepest part of the grip to the bow string. If your bow appears to have good cam timing and the brace height and axle to axle are close to factory spec, then my next step is to set a nocking point.

To set a nocking point, my method is to measure the distance between the two axles and set my nocking point so the arrow is centered between that. I then tie in my nocking point. After that, I install my rest and lock it down with my arrow at a 90 degree angle to the string.

Another method is to attach your rest is to put your bow in a bow vise. Use a level and the vise to put your bow in a position that your string is perfectly vertical (i.e. level). Next, use an arrow on your string and adjust your rest height so that the arrow is running through the center of the berger hole (rest attachment hole) and it is 90 degrees running from your leveled string. At that point, tie in your nocking point(s) and secure your rest vertically.

After I have the nocking point tied in, my rest attached and the arrow squared, I set the horizontal location of my rest. I start with my rest at 13/16” from the edge of the riser. I may end up moving that if need be, but that’s a good starting point. For my Mathews bows, that is the magic spot for my rest.

With the nocking point and rest set, I tie in my D-loop. After that, I draw the bow several times to get a feel for the cam timing. A draw board is the best way to check timing, but if you do not have one you can have someone watch your cams as you draw. You can also get a good feel for it yourself by slowing down and drawing your bow repeatedly. Never draw a bow without having an arrow nocked.

Arrow selection & other accessories

Before moving to the next step of actually shooting the bow you have to think about arrow selection and the other accessories you are going to put on your bow.

You will need to shoot an arrow that has the proper spine for your setup. By spine, I mean the stiffness of the arrow. If the arrow is too weakly spined or too stiffly spined for your bow, it will be very tough and likely impossible to tune. Most arrow manufacturers have charts they provide where you can find your draw length and draw weight. The chart will indicate the proper spine for you to shoot.

Another method, which is what I would recommend, is to utilize the “shaft selector” software that is available online through a company called Archers Advantage. The cost is about $10 and, with it, you can build setups and generate an arrow that is perfectly tailored to you.

For example, I can input the model of bow, my draw length and draw weight. Then, I can play with arrow spines, lengths, components and I can create the perfect arrow for my bow. It’s a great product and I highly recommend it.

After you have picked an arrow, I’d suggest that you work on getting your stabilizer(s) and sight attached. Anything on your bow, including your accessories — even your peep sight — is going to impact the tune. I’ve seen guys shoot a bare bow that tuned perfectly and then added a stabilizer setup and they suddenly have a bad paper tear or poor bare shaft results.

Finally, you have your bow set up and are ready to fire a few arrows and start to tune.

Paper Tuning

I like to start out by paper tuning. For one, it’s relatively easy to do in a small space and I can do it at home in my equipment room. To paper tune your bow, you’ll need a bow, arrows, a frame that can hold a piece of paper that you can shoot through and a target placed behind it. The goal of paper tuning is to stand approximately 6’ to 8’ from the paper and shoot an arrow through the paper into the target. The resulting “tear” through the paper is a perfectly centered hole. A perfect tear would indicate the arrow is leaving the bow with true flight. In order to get a perfect paper tear, your arrow rest, nocking point, cam timing, grip and arrow spine all have to be correct.

Fixing paper tears

Left tear (nock left – point right)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest rightMove cam(s) left or short left yokeUse stiffer arrow or decrease point weightMove cable guard toward arrow

Right tear (nock right – point left)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest leftMove cam(s) right or shorten right yokeUse weaker arrow or increase point weightMove cable guard away from arrow

High tear (nock high – point low)

RestNock pointCam(s)Cable guardMove rest upMove nock point downTwist cable for top camTake a 1/4″ turn out of top limb bolt

Low tear (nock low – point high)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest downMove nock point upTwist cable for bottom camTake a 1/4″ turn out of bottom limb bolt

A combo of tears can be fixed by combining methods. For example, a high left tear might be fixed by moving the rest right and up. Generally, I would recommend you start with the easiest adjustment and retest before moving to steps like stiffer or weaker arrows, cam shimming, etc. More information on how to tune a Mathews bow with top hats can be found here.

Bare shaft tuning

After paper tuning, bare shaft tuning is my second step in the process. Bare shaft tuning is quite simple, but you have to have relatively good, repeatable shooting form. Start with two or three bare shafts (no fletchings) and two or three regular fletched arrows and shoot them, starting at about 15 to 20 yards. The goal is to have the bare shaft and the fletched arrows hit the exact same point. The bare shaft should enter the target at the same vertical and horizontal plane/angle as the fletched arrows. A well-tuned bow will group those arrows together and they will enter the target exactly the same way.

But what if they do not hit together?

Similar to the paper tuning method, your options for getting good bare shaft flight are to move the rest, the nocking point, the cam(s) left or right, adjust the left or right yoke, adjust the cam timing or make changes to your arrow setup.

Bare shaft tuning fix (point of impact)

Bare shaft leftBare shaft rightBare shaft highBare shaft lowRestMove rest leftMove rest rightLower restRaise restNock point-Raise knocking pointLower nocking pointCam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-YokesTwist right yokeTwist left yoke-Cam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-Cam Timing-Twist cable bottom camTwist cable top camArrowsMaybe too stiffMaybe too weak-Other causeDraw length maybe too shortDraw length maybe too long-

As you begin to tune, make changes in small increments. It also helps to record the changes you make and monitor the results. It may take days to work out the tune, ensure that you are shooting with good form and executing good shots.

Walk back tuning

Walk back is yet another method to help you guarantee that your bow’s centershot is true, meaning your rest is in the proper position left to right. The process is simple: you shoot at a single spot on a target using the same pin at a variety of distances and monitor the results.

First, apply a piece of tape vertically straight up and down (plumb) through the middle of your target. Make sure you have an aiming point that the tape runs through. Then sight in your twenty yard pin to that aiming point. Now, moving back to 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards, aiming and shooting at the same aiming point and using your same 20 yard pin at each distance. If you shoot a single pin slider, do not move your sight. At each distance, use the same 20 yard pin.

A well-tuned rest center shot will yield in a straight vertical line. Every arrow should be vertically in a line in the tape, 20 all the way to 60 yards ( I ). If the line of arrow runs off to the left ( / ), you will need to move your rest to the right. If your arrows run off to the right ( ), you’ll need to move your rest to the left.

Make small changes and reshoot as you go. Remember that after you make an adjustment to your rest you will likely have to move your sight and resight in again at 20 yards before starting the walk back process again. Recording your adjustments and results can help you keep things moving in a positive manner. Once again, this may take a few days to make sure you get good shots and results.

Torque tuning

For those that have even more time to test and tinker, torque tuning might be worth considering. Torque tuning essentially is adjusting your rest into a position (forward or farther back) so that when your grip is less than perfect (like it regularly is in a hunting situation) your arrow will still fly true.

To start, sight your bow in at 20 yards. Then, draw your bow and slightly torque your grip so that the riser has more pressure to one side or the other (use common sense, do not derail your bow) As you do so, take note of what direction your stabilizer is pointing, then put your pin on the target and fire an arrow.

If the arrow impacts the direction that your stabilizer was pointing when torqued, move your rest farther back and repeat. If the arrow impacts the opposite direction of the way your stabilizer was pointing, then move your rest farther forward and repeat. Overall, you are trying to find the sweet spot where, if you have less than perfect grip and are torquing the bow, the arrow will still impact the desired spot. After you find the spot, test your results by torquing the bow both left and right and shooting to confirm your results. You can also step your yardage back to 30 or even 40 yards and repeat to fine-tune your rest location for maximum forgiveness.

Broadhead tuning

Finally, good broadhead flight is the reason we all started tuning in the first place and, if you’ve done the work with other methods like paper tuning and bare shaft tuning, it should be really close already.

A fixed-blade broadhead is going to have more surface area than your field tips and because of this will exaggerate an error in flight. Before I begin shooting broadheads, there are a few steps I like to take to ensure that any issues I might see are not the issues with the arrow/broadhead and are, indeed, issues with tune.

The first step is to install a broadhead and check for alignment by spinning each arrow. Any misalignment will cause a wobble in the arrow and poor flight. To check each arrow, use an arrow spinner like the Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector. Spin each arrow, taking note of the broadhead tip, watching for any wobble in the tip. Another method that I prefer is to put the tip of the broadhead up against a cardboard box and as you spin the arrow you will see the point start to make a circle in the cardboard if there is any misalignment. Perfect alignment will result in a pin hole in the cardboard and perfect alignment.

If the arrow tip does make a circle in the box, rotate the arrow tip until it’s in the top most position then use a sharpie to mark the arrow tip at that position. Rotate that arrow 180 degrees from that mark and then apply pressure to the point of the head on a hard surface. What you are wanting to do is to bend or push the insert in alignment with the broadhead. Recheck alignment by spinning the arrow and broadhead again. After your arrow/broadhead combos are put together, it’s time to shoot them.

For a detailed look at broadhead tuning, you can check out an article and video I did on this here.

Hopefully, your broadheads fly perfectly and impact along with your field tips out to 80 yards, but sometimes that is not the case. One of the most common questions I get about broadhead flight is how do I get my broadheads to fly with my field tips? Also, what is your broadhead flight telling you about your tune? The first thing I would suggest is that you should not automatically just move your sight so your broadheads are impacting where you want. That is a Band-Aid and you won’t be able to practice with field tips and have them impact where you want. Below, I have included a table to help you get your broadheads and field tips hitting together.

Broadhead tuning your bow

IssueRest fixCam fixBroadheads hitting leftMove rest leftMove cam rightBroadheads hitting right Move rest rightMove cam leftBroadheads hitting highMove rest down or move nock point upTwist cable for bottom camBroadheads hitting lowMove rest up or move nock point downTwist cable for top cam

After you make adjustments to your rest to get your field tips and broadheads hitting together, then move your sight to re-sight in your pins. This method will ensure your bow is well-tuned (good paper/bare shaft tune) and your broadheads and field tips hit exactly where you want them to!

Finally, I’ll provide another table below that can help in your tuning efforts and setting your bow to spec.

General tuning cause and effect

Twisting stringUntwisting stringTwisting cableUntwisting cableAxle to axleDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesBrace heightIncreasesDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesHolding weightIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesIncreasesDraw lengthDecreasesIncreasesIncreasesDecreases

In conclusion

Hopefully the COVID-19 pandemic will pass quickly and we can all get back to some normalcy and prepare for the fall hunting seasons. While we have some time at home, stay safe, enjoy time with family and put some real effort into having the most well-tuned bow you have ever entered a season with. All the best!

When it comes to creating spinner rigs suitable for walleye fishing, the factory-tied versions on the market leave me cold much of the time. For better than 30 years I’ve taken pride in tying my own walleye spinners using premium hooks, lines, clevices and blades.

The time spent making my own fishing rigs is enjoyable, but even better it’s a satisfying feeling reeling in a fish I caught on one of my own creations. My son Jake and I often tie spinners together while we’re watching a ball game. My wife Mari even jumps into the act to make sure we color-coordinate things as she sees fit!

A spinner rig can be drifted, cast or trolled. This presentation starts heating up in the spring when the water gets in the upper 40-degree range and remains good all summer long.

Getting started tying your own spinner rigs starts by identifying the proper components. Most tackle shops and mail order houses sell spinner components including blades, beads, leader material, clevices and hooks. An investment of about $50 will set an angler up for producing as many quality spinner rigs. That’s a considerable saving over purchasing the factory-tied versions which start at about $2 each and range up to $5 or more!

Leader Material

Walleye spinner rigs can be tied on a variety of leader materials. An ordinary monofilament line is an acceptable and affordable option. Select a hard-surfaced line that has excellent abrasion resistance. Both Maxima Ultra Green and Chameleon are examples of monofilaments that are tough enough to make great spinner rigs.

Fluorocarbon is also popular as leader material for spinner fishing because this line type is nearly invisible in the water. Fluorocarbon also has great abrasion resistance qualities and it holds knots well.

A few anglers use fused lines to tie spinner harnesses. The biggest problem with fused lines is they are soft and tangle easily. Should one of these rigs get tangled, there is little chance of salvaging the rig.

Depending on the size of fish targeted leader material suitable for walleye fishing ranges from 10- to 15-pound test. Both fluorocarbon and monofilament can be purchased in leader wheels, saving money and making sure the line used for tying spinner rigs is fresh and in good shape.

Beadsmail-order

Tackle shops sell beads designed for tying rigs, but I prefer to buy my beads at a craft shop. Craft shops have a wider variety of beads and bead types and many more colour options than routinely stocked at a tackle shop. Also, beads at a craft shop cost about one-quarter of the price of the same ones sold at tackle stores!

Clevices

A clevice is the device that holds the blade on the leader allowing the blade to rotate. Some clevices are made from stamped metal, others folded metal and still, others are formed from plastic. Metal clevices allow the blade to spin with the least amount of resistance and are superior for slow trolling and drifting applications.

Plastic clevices are often configured to allow the blade to be removed without having to cut and re-tie the leader. This handy feature allows anglers to experiment with blade size, shape and color quickly. The leader in this category is a company called Quick Change Clevices and they are widely distributed at tackle shops everywhere.

Plastic clevices come in two sizes, one for smaller blades and a second model for larger blades. Matching up the right size clevice to the proper blade is important to get good performance from these products.

Hooks

For walleye harnesses, I favor a short shank-style hook known as a “beak” hook. Similar in shape to an “egg” hook, but with a little longer shank, a No. 4 beak hook is a good all-around choice. When targeting bigger walleye a larger No. 2 beak hook is the best option.

Ordinary bronze hooks are the standard for walleye spinner rigs, but red anodized hooks are gaining in popularity. Many anglers feel that red hooks help to attract fish.

Blades

The most popular blade type for walleye spinner fishing is hands down the Colorado blade. Colorado blades spin at slow speeds and give off a lot of flash and vibration. Sizes 2 and 3 are ideal for structure fishing applications and when fishing inland lakes. Larger No. 4 and 5 blades work better for targeting larger walleye or when fishing impoundments and the Great Lakes that produce bigger average-sized fish.

A good second option is Indiana-style blades that are a little more oblong in shape. It takes a little more speed to get an Indiana blade spinning, but these blades work well in most walleye fishing situations for drifting and slow trolling.

These days blades suitable for walleye spinner rigs come in every color and finish imaginable. When buying blades purchase them in groups of 4 to 6 blades per color. That way if a particular color starts producing you’ll have other blades of the same color to share.

The Knot

The best knot for tying walleye spinner rigs is known as the egg loop and anglers can quickly learn to tie this knot at a web page called www.animatedknots.com. The benefit of the egg loop knot is the hook can be placed precisely on the leader allowing the angler to space two or three hooks at exactly the desired distance from one another. Other snell knots allow the hook to slide when the knot is tightened, making it tough to create uniform rigs.

Summing It Up

Tying spinner rigs is a lot of fun and these rigs are deadly when fishing walleye on bottom bouncer sinkers, slip sinker rigs, three-way swivel rigs or when trolling in open water using divers like the popular Off Shore Tackle Tadpole Diver.

Once tied I like to store my spinner rigs in small plastic bags or wrap them up on a short chunk of foam made for insulating water pipes. One length of foam can be cut into about a dozen short leader wheels ideal for storing walleye spinner rigs.

If tying your own spinner rigs isn’t an option, some of the best factory-tied rigs are produced by Yakima Bait, Northland Tackle, Lindy Little Joe and Bait Rigs Tackle

A native of New Jersey, this taxonomic relict dates back to 250 million years.

I must admit, as a kid I enjoyed playing in the mud with my older brother way too much. Little did I know, that as an adult I would find myself still reveling in that joyous childhood pleasure.

Ironically, some of my favorite fishing adventures occur in the muddiest and swampiest places that I could explore here in South Jersey. Previously, I had become quite addicted to catching monster northern snakeheads. At the time I never thought that I would find another species that would match that kind of adrenaline rush or that would thrive in such a murky, mysterious environment.

It’s a fish with as many monikers as Satan himself, and a hell-raising disposition to match. Mudfish, mud pike, dogfish, grinnel, and cypress trout, are just some of the names they are known as in different parts of the country. I had heard of them as bowfin, but never once encountered these singular beasts even though they were surely in some of the waterways where I had cast my line many times over when scouting for other, more familiar species.

It just goes to show that they have a knack for hiding in plain sight.

Where one might be inclined to cast far out in open water, bowfin could be lingering on the shallow bank underbrush submerged in the muck right at your feet. This king of the swamp really knows how to get down and dirty. Perhaps that is how they have survived for millions of years, because of their amazing ability to lay low.

A Prehistoric Native

Amia calva, yet another more formal name, date way back to the Jurassic period and their fossils have indicated that they were once widespread across North and South America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. These fish are the only surviving member of a prehistoric family of fish known as the order Amliformes. They are thought of as a highly-evolved primitive fish given that they’ve not changed much from their earliest ancestors. I’d say they must have gotten something right to have outlasted the dinosaurs. Today their population is not as widespread as it once was and is limited to the eastern part of the United States, Southern Canada, and several rivers flowing from the Eastern Seaboard or Gulf of Mexico.

Bowfin are related to gar and share their fantastic trait of being air breathers. A swim bladder serves as both a float for buoyancy and as a crude lung. The primitive lung makes it possible for bowfin to survive in poorly oxygenated water and also helps them endure extended periods of time out of the water. Another species that shares this same quality is the snakehead, a fish often confused with the bowfin in appearance. But bowfin are native to our area and have been for millions of years, where the northern snakehead is believed to have been introduced in the past decade or so.

Northern snakeheads are considered invasive and it is recommended that they be destroyed when caught. Sadly many bowfin are erroneously killed when an angler does not spot the differences between the two fish. Key differences that set the bowfin apart from the snakehead are a black eye spot (in males) located on the narrow part of their body where their tail fin is attached, a shorter anal fin, a solid tan or olive coloration, a rounded head, and an upper jaw that protrudes past their lower jaw.

Bowfin have gotten a bad reputation for allegedly having a negative impact on the environment. It is feared by some that the aggressive fish take over waterways and devour popular gamefish or simply out-compete them for food stunting their populations. It seems strange to be thinking this of a fish that has been here for millions of years. The developing attitude towards these fish is similar to the truly invasive snakehead. Perhaps their all too similar traits are responsible for this shift in opinion.

We ourselves are not without blame for having a negative impact on the environment. The use of herbicides to clear vegetation for boats could pose just as much of a threat to the habitats of juvenile fish. Still, there are some studies that have been positive for this species, pointing out that bowfin are actually indicative of a thriving habitat.

Spring & Summer Target

These fish spawn in early spring or early summer, typically when the water temperatures reach a steady 60 to 65 degrees. This is the very best time to catch them in numbers. The males make the spawning beds over sand bars, under stumps, logs or bushes in depths of up to 3 feet of water. The males also sport a vibrant lime green coloration on their fins, underbelly, and on the inside of their mouths at this time. The females can produce up to 5,000 eggs, which the males will guard until the fry reach about 2 to 3 inches in length.

These cylindrical fish are ambush predators and can be caught on many of the same lures and baits used for bass. The gear that I use does not differ from anything that I would use for bass fishing. You can use either a spinning or a casting rod. I use a sturdy 6-1/2-foot medium/heavy spinning rod loaded with 30-pound braid. Braid is a must because these fish have very sharp teeth. In fact, you could find using a wire leader to be a wise choice. I just check my line for frays after I catch a couple, and if the line looks sketchy I re-tie lures or hooks as needed.

I prefer to use a reel that is sealed such as the Penn Fierce 3000 spinning reel because it doesn’t mind getting dirty or being beat on by these beastly fish. A strong super line 4/0 hook is definitely necessary when you are using bait. These bruisers can easily bend a standard hook wide open. Using cut bait has no doubt been my most successful choice for catching bowfin. It is said that their sense of smell is much greater than their sight, makes sense for a fish that thrives in stained water. I have also used shrimp and imitation crab meat with great success. When fishing cut or live bait I prefer to attach a bobber, but you certainly could fish bottom on the same rig you would use for catfish.

I find the bobber method to be more productive because you really know the moment they take the bait. Give them a few seconds swimming with it and hit them hard on the hookset. Their heads are extremely bony, and you have to really sink that hook to keep them on.

One major thing I have noticed when fishing for bowfin is that they do not spook as easily as your typical gamefish. I don’t know if it is because of their temperament, the spawn, or simply that they are not as targeted as other more sought after fish. It is pretty awesome though. So if you miss a fish on a cast, don’t worry. Let the bait sit for a minute or recast it back out to the same spot. Most of the bowfin that I have encountered have hit again, multiple times.

As far as lures, top water frogs and spinners have worked for me. The level of vegetation usually dictates which one is the better choice. Work the banks, around stumps, or under bushes. Often you will see a v-shaped wake come charging your lure.

Battle Tested Bruisers

Their ability to breathe air is very useful in the heat of summer when oxygen levels are low in the water. When they need to replenish their oxygen, they surface, release depleted oxygen through their gills and gulp a fresh supply of air through their mouths. It is a telltale sign as to where they are, so when you see a swirl cast a little past it and reel in. Jigging is also a good method to entice a bite.

Some people consider this species to be a “trash fish” but they can give a better fight than many of the popular gamefish. Pound-for-pound these fish are one of the most extreme fighters I have hooked in freshwater. I can definitely understand how someone might get annoyed if they aren’t expecting this kind of bite. Bowfin can really mangle your favorite lure or snap it off altogether.

The intense tug of war that ensues after hooking into one of these prehistoric beasts reminds me of the fierce battle that you would get with a northern snakehead. The sheer power of this predator is amazing and they never seem to tire. Both fish are agile as they torpedo through the water on the other end of your line. Snakeheads seem to be more acrobatic and can leap out of the water trying to throw the hook, whereas bowfin tend to have a more bulldog approach and dig straight for the sanctity of the bottom or underbrush to escape. You will have to play these fish diligently to land them, but as you pull them in you will see that they just don’t stop trying to free themselves. They often go into a death roll much like a crocodile.

Removing the hook from these toothy critters can be intimidating. A lip gripper and pliers are must have gear to get the job done. They tend to continue to thrash violently on the gripper; safely lay them down to avoid hurting them or yourself. Catch, photo, and release them as quickly as possible so you can get back out there and catch another. Most likely there will be more fish in the vicinity.

If you don’t have any idea where to begin to locate populations of these fish, take a little time and scout some swampy tidal waterways that you may have bypassed for the beaten path. They prefer well vegetated areas with little or no current. You may find yourself catching northern snakeheads in these same areas as well. Make your own adventure and find those hidden living fossils.

These prehistoric fish are a must catch for any avid fisherman; add them to your list. You might get a little dirty, but you’ll have so much fun doing it.

Great for Small Fish

Ugly Stik Elite

Length Tested: 5′ | Casting Weight: 1/32-1/4 oz

If you need a well-built, lightweight fishing rod that’s easy to tote to your favorite fishing hole, look no further than the Ugly Stik Elite. Don’t let its small size fool you. It’s perfectly strong and has impressive fighting power, which was proven on several occasions when we hauled in fish that were seemingly too big for this rod. This Ugly Stik was also versatile enough for different fishing styles, whether it be dropping a hook with a worm on it or just casting with a lure. It was also one of the best when it came to balancing, sitting comfortably in our hands all day long.

Although the upsides were plentiful, there were a few downsides to consider. This rod is on the small side, so the casting distance takes a hit. This is to be expected due to the rod’s size, but it’s still something to think about if most of your fishing involves casting. It also has a fairly short handle, which made two-handed use a little more difficult. Overall, this rod was a pleasure to use. So, if you need a small rod that can handle the rigors of everyday fishing, you might want to give the Ugly Stik Elite a try.

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Why You Should Trust Us

Our testing grounds were June Lake, California, Jackson Hole, Wyoming, and the California coast, where our lead tester fished from both shorelines and boats to determine how each rod performed in different environments. Dozens of fish were hooked in the process of testing these rods, helping us decipher key performance differences between each product. Each fishing rod was taken out into the field to gain impressions about the features, as well as the versatility and portability. Professional anglers were also consulted, and their feedback was taken into consideration. We then put each rod up against the others to figure out where each one ranked in the test. The rankings and recommendations found in this review were informed by our in-depth comparisons and field testing.

Kit Smith, our lead reviewer, has been fishing for most of his life. He grew up fishing for salmon and halibut in the San Francisco Bay and the nearby Pacific Ocean. He also spent time fishing streams and lakes in Bear Valley, a small mountain town in the Central Sierras, where his family had a cabin. Later, he continued perfecting his angling craft in Colorado, where he attended college.

Analysis and Test Results

During testing, we measured each rod on five metrics: Balance/Feel, Features, Portability, Construction, and Versatility. We lay out each below and highlight some top performers in each area.

Value

As the old adage goes: When you buy cheap, you buy twice. Case in point here is the KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic. Its glass tip broke after a few uses, and we had to order another one. We didn’t have any problems with the second rod, so we’ll chalk it up to getting a lemon. Overall, we ended up really enjoying this rod for its versatility, portability, and exceptional balance. The real stand-out for its great price-to-performance ratio is the PLUSINNO Two-Piece Spinning Rod, which is ultra-affordable and surprised us with its great functionality on the water. The Daiwa Megaforce Tele Spin is a bit pricier, but overall, it’s a well-constructed, highly portable rod with great casting capabilities that is a good value we think most fishermen would be happy with.

Balance & Feel

A rod’s balance is a crucial component to consider. It not only helps with casting, but it also makes fishing a whole lot more comfortable. If the balance is off, the weight of the rod will be shifted to the rod tip or handle, and you’ll notice it. Feel is also an important metric here. Feel comes down to the sensitivity of the rod. If a rod has a great feel, you can sense the smallest bites and the action of a lure in the water.

While telescoping rods don’t traditionally provide great balance and feel, the Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic was an exception. It was extremely comfortable to fish with and let us sense every little movement in the water.

As far as the most well-balanced and sensitive rod goes, the St. Croix Triumph Travel and the Ugly Stik Elite were neck and neck. While the St. Croix Triumph Travel is the most balanced and sensitive fishing rod we tested, letting you feel everything that was happening underwater, the Ugly Stik was right there with it. It helped us feel the tiniest nibbles and set the hook like a pro.

Features

This metric is sometimes overlooked when considering a fishing rod. Sure, you can get the job done without all the bells and whistles, but smart features can make the experience even better. What kind of features are we talking about? Things like a cork grip, hook holder, and oversize guides. But having a lot of features doesn’t automatically make it a winner here. They have to be features that really work and add to the fishing experience. This category’s standout is the PLUSINNO Two-Piece Spinning, with an abundance of useful features. A couple of our favorites? The oversize ceramic guides helped guide the line smoothly for long casts, and the double locking structure on the reel seat held the reel tightly in place and never loosed up, even after bumpy boat rides.

With our favorite handle, the Cadence Fishing CR5 Spinning Rod also proved strong in this metric. Some of these rods have foam handles, but this one features a premium cork handle that fits perfectly in hand and makes all-day fishing comfort a reality. The High Altitude Lightweight Telescopic packed plenty of features, too. We especially liked the hook keeper that lets you store your hook while moving between fishing holes.

Portability

This is a crucial metric if you plan on traveling with your rod. Of course, it’s hard to beat a telescoping rod for portability, but some of the two-piece rods we tested were quite easy to take apart and put back together. The Cadence Fishing CR5 was one of these, and it made transporting a breeze.

One of the most portable rods we tested was the High Altitude Lightweight Telescopic. It was one of the lightest and easiest to transport of our test fleet. But many of the other telescoping rods were just as portable, including the Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic and the KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic. If portability is important to you, we suggest trying out one of these rods.

Construction

While this isn’t the most exciting metric, it does make a big difference in how well a rod works. Depending on the material, you can get more sensitivity, strength, and fighting power. On top of that, the construction may be what determines if a rod lasts ten days or ten years.

There were a few standouts in this metric. The Daiwa Megaforce Telescopic was clearly built to last among the telescopic poles. Its carbon fiber construction combines strength and sensitivity to pick up little nibbles on our bait.

The true king of construction, though, is the St. Croix Triumph Travel. Built with a unique graphite fiber, this rod provided incredible sensitivity and fighting power. Of course, that quality doesn’t come cheap — it also comes with a high price tag.

Versatility

Another important metric to consider is versatility. And in this category, not all rods are created equal. Some are specifically made for fishing off the bottom of a lake, while others are made just for casting in saltwater environments.

The KastKing Blackhawk II Telescopic is a clear winner here. With its equally great performance in both fresh and saltwater, exceptional casting distance and sensitivity, and impressive fighting power, it can handle everything from small trout to large sea bass.

In comparison, while it’s built with quality in mind, the Ugly Stik Elite is really only made for freshwater fishing. Its fast action and light power design were clear indications of this. With that said, its versatility score took a hit.

Conclusion

Selecting the right fishing rod puts the odds more in your favor. Your personal fishing style is an important consideration. Do you plan to spend most of your days dropping a line off a boat, or will you be casting from the shoreline more often? Whatever it is, there’s a rod here designed just for you. We hope this article has been helpful in selecting a new rod. So, plan that next fishing trip, get out there, and snag that trophy fish.

Coyotes- Coyotes have big eyes that glow bright white in the dark.

Also, Do You Know What color do coyote eyes glow in the dark?

fiery white glow Coyotes, wolves and dog’s eyes usually have a fiery white glow. A bobcat’s eyeshine is yellowish white. A bear’s eyes will glow fiery orange. Night eyeshine is not only exhibited by some of the mammals, reptiles and amphibians.

Generally What animals eyes glow green at night? Felines, both big and small, will have a heavy upper eyelid, and a pupil that is perpendicular to the shape of the eye. The eyes of cats will grow green in light at night. Deer, on the other hand, will have a larger and rounder, less oval, shape.

Here You Can Watch The Video How to Make Brown Eyes POP | BLUE EYELINER Makeup

Similarly, EYELINER : colors for brown eyes | which suits best ???

Frequently Asked Questions(FAQ)

What color eyes do deer have at night?

The eyes of a deer may appear black or brown during the day; however, during the night, the color changes to yellow. The yellow shine in the eyes of different species, especially those of a deer, occurs due to the tapetum lucidum.

What color is a Coyotes eye?

Unlike the exotic blues and greens of domestic dog eyes, which humans have selectively bred for around 8,000 years, coyote eye color lies strictly within the golden spectrum, he says. (Coyote pups are born with bluish eyes that transition to yellow by about six weeks old.)

What color do racoon eyes reflect at night?

Raccoons- Raccoons have big eyes that glow bright yellow in the dark.

Do raccoons eyes glow in the dark?

Their eyes may appear to glow red at night. The eyes of raccoons have a structure called a tapetum lucidum that reflects light, allowing them to see well in the dark. When a bright light like a flashlight shines directly into their eyes, they shine red!

What color do bears eyes glow at night?

Black bear have large round eyes at night and are set closer to the ground than a deer’s. A bear’s eyes are near pupil-less and glow red or green.

Which animals eyes glow in the dark?

A large number of animals have the tapetum lucidum, including deer, dogs, cats, cattle, horses and ferrets. Humans don’t, and neither do some other primates. Squirrels, kangaroos and pigs don’t have the tapeta, either.

What animals eyes reflect blue?

White eyeshine occurs in many fish, especially walleye; blue eyeshine occurs in many mammals such as horses; yellow eyeshine occurs in mammals such as cats, dogs, and raccoons; and red eyeshine occurs in rodents, opossums and birds. The human eye has no tapetum lucidum, hence no eyeshine.

What color do dogs eyes reflect at night?

In low (dim) light eyes are more sensitive to blue than red. So a dog with a tapetum which reflects green light will have better night-vision than one which reflects red.

Which animals eyes glow in the dark?

A large number of animals have the tapetum lucidum, including deer, dogs, cats, cattle, horses and ferrets. Humans don’t, and neither do some other primates. Squirrels, kangaroos and pigs don’t have the tapeta, either.

What animals eyes reflect blue?

White eyeshine occurs in many fish, especially walleye; blue eyeshine occurs in many mammals such as horses; yellow eyeshine occurs in mammals such as cats, dogs, and raccoons; and red eyeshine occurs in rodents, opossums and birds. The human eye has no tapetum lucidum, hence no eyeshine.

What color do dogs eyes reflect at night?

In low (dim) light eyes are more sensitive to blue than red. So a dog with a tapetum which reflects green light will have better night-vision than one which reflects red.

Which animals eyes glow in the dark?

A large number of animals have the tapetum lucidum, including deer, dogs, cats, cattle, horses and ferrets. Humans don’t, and neither do some other primates. Squirrels, kangaroos and pigs don’t have the tapeta, either.

What animals eyes reflect blue?

White eyeshine occurs in many fish, especially walleye; blue eyeshine occurs in many mammals such as horses; yellow eyeshine occurs in mammals such as cats, dogs, and raccoons; and red eyeshine occurs in rodents, opossums and birds. The human eye has no tapetum lucidum, hence no eyeshine.

What color do dogs eyes reflect at night?

In low (dim) light eyes are more sensitive to blue than red. So a dog with a tapetum which reflects green light will have better night-vision than one which reflects red.

Article References…

• https://survivalfreedom.com/identifying-animal-eyes-at-night-with-eye-shine-chart/
• https://www.tallahassee.com/story/life/home-garden/2018/08/02/nocturnal-creatures-reveal-themselves-flash-eyeshine/892325002/
• https://q-beam.com/blogs/news/how-to-identify-animal-eyes-at-night-by-flashlight
• https://kidadl.com/facts/deer-eye-everything-you-wanted-to-know-about-doe-eyes-and-more

Bull sharks and crocodiles are enigmatic oceanic creatures. Let us together draw a comparative analysis on them.

Both bull sharks and crocodiles are powerful predators with excellent combat skills. While sharks keep biting their prey till it is mutilated and dead, crocodiles hang on to their flesh and remove it from their bodies before feeding on it. In addition, crocodiles live on both land and water, whereas sharks can survive only in water.

Today, we will together look at some of the most common questions people ask about the differences between bull sharks and crocodiles.

Image Credits: “Hartley’s Creek Crocodile farm” by Sue Waters is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Image Credits: “オオメジロザメ Bull shark” by ume-y is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Do bull sharks attack crocodiles?

Bull sharks and crocodiles are hostile animals, without a doubt. Let us explore whether bull sharks attack crocodiles.

Bull sharks do not attack crocodiles, but the opposite is entirely possible. There have been several recorded instances over the years of crocodiles biting and eating bull sharks, along with other shark species such as lemon sharks. In fact, saltwater crocodiles are notorious for attacking and eating bull sharks.

Crocodiles are aggressive animals known for their ferocity. Therefore, they often prey on bull sharks and other shark species in addition to fishes and other marine animals.

Is a shark stronger than a crocodile?

Sharks are powerful animals with tremendous strength. But are sharks stronger than crocodiles? Let us find out.

Sharks are not stronger than crocodiles, with the exception of the great white sharks. Bull sharks are often attacked by crocodiles, and so are lemon sharks and tiger sharks. Great white sharks are powerful enough to engage in combat with crocodiles, and they are also fast swimmers, which gives them an added advantage.

Crocodiles are massive animals that kill marine creatures quite indiscriminately. From sharks to fishes and seagulls, crocodiles attack one and all because of their tremendous strength.

Saltwater crocodile vs bull shark

Image Credits: “Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus)” by berniedup is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Image credits: “オオメジロザメ Bull shark” by ume-y is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Saltwater crocodiles and bull sharks are two distinct species. Let us draw a comparative analysis on them.

Saltwater crocodiles are humongous animals who eat indiscriminately, whereas bull sharks adhere to a very specific diet comprising fishes and smaller sharks. Saltwater crocodiles are powerful and can easily munch through a bull shark. In fact, bull sharks prefer occupying freshwaters and do not thrive in saltwater regions. Therefore, attacking them becomes easier.

Saltwater crocodiles have a tremendous advantage over bull sharks and can easily overpower them. In fact, there have been several recorded instances of bull sharks being eaten by saltwater crocodiles.

Bull sharks vs saltwater crocodile bite

Image Credits: “Crocodiles Mouth-01&” by Sheba Also 18 Million Views is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Both bull sharks and crocodiles have a strong bite that can injure possible victims. Let us learn which of the two has a stronger bite.

Saltwater crocodiles are fantastic biters and have the most powerful bite among all crocodile species, whereas bull sharks have the best bite among the shark species. Although both bull sharks and crocodiles are excellent biters, saltwater crocodiles have a biting force of 3,700 pounds per square inch to bite through hard and soft-shelled prey.

That being said, bull sharks are strong biters, too but lack the force that characterizes crocodiles.

Bull shark vs crocodile appearance

Bull sharks and crocodiles have very distinct appearances, and even a layman can tell them apart. Let us learn more in this regard.

Bull sharks are essentially shark species that are cartilaginous and live in water at all times, whereas crocodiles belong to the family of reptiles and live on land too. Besides, bull sharks grow up to 11-20 feet, whereas most crocodiles attain a similar height and grow anywhere between 10 to 20 feet.

We must mention here that grown up bull sharks weigh slightly more than crocodiles. On average, most bull sharks will weigh 1,000 to 2,400 lbs, whereas crocodiles can weigh 2,000 pounds at maximum.

Bull sharks vs crocodiles teeth

One major point of dissimilarity between bull sharks and crocodiles is their teeth structure. Allow us to tell you more in this regard.

Bull sharks have around 50 odd teeth in the front row itself, and overall, they have 300 teeth on average, whereas crocodiles have around 66 conical-shaped teeth. As some of you might already know, sharks lose and regrow their teeth several times during their lifetime. Even crocodiles shed their old teeth but not as frequently as sharks.

Needless to say, both bull sharks and crocodiles need a strong set of teeth to survive in the ocean and hunt for potential prey.

Bull sharks vs crocodiles lifespan

Bull sharks and crocodiles also vary in terms of their lifespan. Allow us to tell you more on this topic.

On average, saltwater crocodiles can live up to 70 years, whereas bull sharks can live up to 12-16 years. Most crocodile species live merely up to 30-40 years, with the Nile crocodile clocking in a lifespan of 50-60 years. In captivity, bull sharks have been known to live up to 30 years. Most sharks have a similar lifespan of 20 to 30 years.

Bull sharks vs crocodiles movement

Image Credits: “Bull Shark” by Relativiox is marked with CC BY 2.0.

A common question asked about bull sharks and crocodiles is how they vary in terms of speed. Let us learn more in this regard.

Most sharks can swim faster than crocodiles, especially the great white sharks. On average, bull sharks can swim at the rate of 35 mph, whereas crocodiles can swim only up to 15mph when in water and around 22mph when they are on land. Since sharks swim faster in water, they might sometimes escape attacks from crocodiles.

Conclusion

Bull sharks and crocodiles are two of the most fierce, dangerous aquatic species. They have a powerful jaw and can easily bite into and tear apart their prey. In terms of senses, sharks see better when they are in water and can also smell blood. Crocodiles, on the other hand, have better defenses since they can move on both land and water and have really tough skin, which makes recoveries from injuries quicker.

Big bullets, big cartridges, and shmedium rifles.

Taking big game is one of the few areas that a standard AR-15 doesn’t do well in, but combine an AR with 450 Bushmaster and you have a whole new ballgame.

How does it stack up to a legendary classic like .308 Winchester? We got that info, ballistics, recommendations, and a lot more!

Sure, But Why

To a lot of you, this comparison might seem kind of… odd. I mean, even someone casually familiar with these two calibers can likely tell that these are not similar.

The answer is simple: A lot of readers are interested in this exact comparison. I don’t know why, but who am I to judge.

Y’all asked for it, so you get it.

Holla in the comments with more suggestions of what we should cover!

Story Behind The Cartridges

450 Bushmaster

Who likes big bullets and cannot lie? Jeff Cooper. The man touched many facets of the firearms world and this is yet one more where he left his mark.

While actually designed by Tim LeGendre of LeMAG Firearms, the inspiration for the idea came from Cooper’s support for a “Thumper” cartridge.

Basically, a “Thumper” was a big bullet moving as fast as they could push it so that an AR could take big game at 200ish yards.

Keep in mind that this was before things like the .458 SOCOM and .50 Beowulf were invented.

LeGendre designed what he called the .45 Professional and delivered an AR chambered in that to Cooper himself.

Bushmaster was highly interested in producing the new design, but they needed ammo for it.

When LeGendre approached Hornady about making ammo for it, they requested a slight change to the design of the case – shortening it slightly so they could load the 250gr SST in it.

The change was approved and the final cartridge was renamed to .450 Bushmaster.

.308 Winchester

After a cool story like 450 Bushmaster, the history of .308 Winchester can be kind of boring. Maybe I should have saved the good story for last… oh well.

Back in the 1940s 300 Savage was used for a series of tests for the US military, Frankford Arsenal (the actual US Arsenal, no connection to the brand/company that operates today) saw the tests and liked the results.

They started playing with the design a little and created a case that was slightly shorter, with a little less taper, and thicker walls.

Really liking what they saw, they lengthed the case back to its original specs. Using more modern powders (“modern” by 1940s standards) they created a cartridge that was effectively almost identical to the performance of milspec .30-06 Springfield but with a much smaller cartridge.

Smaller means lighter, lighter means you can carry more of it, so all in all – a lot better.

Winchester saw the potential for this new cartridge and introduced it to the hunting world in 1952.

Two short years later, NATO adopted the 7.62x51mm cartridge as a standard.

Practical Applications

450 Bushmaster

Hunting.

That’s it, that’s the list. The end.

Okay, 450 Bushmaster was designed as a hunting cartridge that could take big game (talking moose-sized “big”) at 200 yards or closer. And if nothing else, 450 Bushmaster does that.

If you’re in a fairly close environment and you need a really big bullet moving quickly to drop something large and four-legged, .450 Bushmaster is a solid option.

However, it comes with some major downsides that make it pretty much useless in all other applications.

Recoil is a beast. 250 grains moving at 2,200 FPS out of a 7ish pound AR means you’re getting the felt recoil roughly equivalent to 12ga slugs.

You can mitigate this with a brake and a good stock, but it’s still a hard hitter.

While you can do things like zeroing at 200 yards to have a point-blank zero out to that distance, 450 Bushmaster is an elephant fighting gravity – and it ain’t no Dumbo.

You are very limited on range and 250 yards starts to push it.

While it starts off with almost 2700 ft.lbf at the muzzle, 450 Bushmaster falls below 1,000 ft.lbf before it hits 300 yards.

.308 Winchester

Everything.

Because of the age of the cartridge and how widely it was adopted by NATO, the military, LEO, and more, .308 Winchester can do basically everything.

Hunting? Oh ya, .308 Winchester has taken every game animal in North America in droves.

Long range precision? Sure, while newer 6mm cartridges are the newest hotness, .308 Win is still widely used by sport shooters, LEO, and competition shooters – although most people running .308 Win in competition do so in special divisions built for it.

SHTF? .308 Win can take game, defend your post-apocalypse bunker, put down mutants (I mean, probably), and is so massively produced and used that refilling your stockpile should be fairly easy.

You can handload .308 Win with every type of bullet under the sun, you can find factory ammo for it in every gunstore and bait shop in the nation, you can find replacement parts basically everywhere, and any rifle you want that is large enough can and probably does come with a .308 Win option.

It is the definitive do-all cartridge in North America.

I would argue that 6.5 Creedmoor is better, but there is no denying that .308 Winchester has achieved unparalleled success. [For more on that, check out our article 6.5 Creedmoor vs 308.]

Ballistics

The real meat and potatoes of these comparisons are how they actually stack up against each other ballistically. Well, in most ways – .308 Win kicks the snot out of 450 Bushmaster.

At the muzzle they are basically the same, .308 Win has around 2700 ft.lbf and 450 Bushmaster has just a few pounds under that.

The big difference is that .308 Winchester keeps at least 1,000 ft.lbf out to about 600 yards, 450 Bushmaster loses it by 300 yards.

While .308 can reach out accurately to 1,200 yards (if you’re pretty good), 450 Bushmaster is on life support by the time it gets past 500.

[To learn more about 450 Bushmaster ballistics and why it was created, see our recent article]

AR-10 Vs. AR-15

I’m going to assume that you’re looking at both of these calibers in an AR platform. While both can be found in bolt-action rifles also, 450 Bushmaster in a bolt gun is kind of silly.

The AR-10 is at least a couple of pounds heavier than an AR-15. It’s larger, less handy, and can quickly become a beast to hike with.

Generally speaking, an AR-10 is also more expensive to build or buy.

This is why “thumper” cartridges like 450 Bushmaster, 458 SOCOM, and 50 Beowulf exist. They give you basically the same punch as a short-action cartridge (at least for a couple of hundred yards) but keep the package small.

Personally, I say get both.

Wild Animal Defense

I’m a big believer in the idea that guns are not your best defense against most wild animals. For black bears, nothing beats a hiking song and some bear spray. For mountain lions, bringing a mule is technically the best but a hiking song and a sharp stick is a decent second option.

However, there are those times when nothing else will do. Maybe you tend animals that are looking really juicy this time of year, maybe you have a particularly mean set of critters in your area, whatever the case – you need a bigger stick.

.450 Bushmaster is one hell of a stick and in this role, it can really shine.

Most of the professional guides I’ve spoken with that live and hike in grizzly country say they choose a 12ga 3” magnum slugs as their last line of defense against a bear – that gives them about 2950 ft.lbf at the muzzle.

450 Bushmaster comes in around 2700 ft.lbf… but you can have 10 rounds in a magazine and less recoil.

If grizzly is your worst-case scenario, you might want to really consider a 450 Bushmaster or some other thumper as your next move.

What Is Better?

If you can stand the size and weight of an AR-10, then 308 Winchester is the clear winner.

But if you need something smaller and lighter – 450 Bushmaster is the ticket.

Really though, 450 Bushmaster is basically in the exact same boat as 50 Beowulf and .458 SOCOM.

They are all basically the same ballistically, they all have basically the same amount of ammo per magazine, they all cost basically the same, and more or less have the same issues.

I would give .458 SOCOM a slight edge in terms of reliability, but everything else really isn’t enough difference to make a difference.

Converting An AR-15 To 450 Bushmaster

The easy method is a new upper and modifying your magazines.

Magazines are standard AR-15 5.56 NATO mags, but with a new single stack follower. You can also get a dedicated 450 Bushmaster magazine.

For the upper, you’ll need a new barrel and a new bolt. 450 Bushmaster and .458 SOCOM use the same bolt face so it’s pretty easy to find.

A normal BCG can be used, it just needs the new bolt.

Overall, like most other AR conversions – 450 Bushmaster is pretty easy.

[Of course you can also buy a 450 Bushmaster complete upper and all the work is done for you. Just drop it on your standard AR-15 lower, pop 2 pins, and you’re ready to rock!]

Parting Shots

When it comes down to it – the “thumper” cartridges are all basically the same, just slightly different flavors.

If you need one, pick the one you like most and go for it!

But .308 Winchester will give you a lot more options and a lot more range. But that comes at the cost of a heavier rifle.

Let me know what you picked!

And let us know what caliber comparisons you want to see next!

Do you want to be a better defensive shooter?

Of course, you do! So…can you attend a defensive firearms course across the country…basically once a month?

If you can, great! But if you can’t…welcome to the club.

So what do you do in between classes? Drills!

Defensive firearm drills are a great way to work on new skills and keep the ones you have sharp.

We’ve put together a few defensive firearms drills to keep your skills sharp & build a solid base in defensive firearms use, all from the comfort of your local range.

Why These Drills?

There are lots of great drills out there to improve your shooting ability. The ones I’ve chosen here were done for a purpose.

First, they are great drills to master.

Second, they can be done with minimal supplies.

Third, they can most likely be done or modified to be done in accordance with your range’s rules.

1. Malfunction Clearing

This drill is all about learning to get your gun back into the fight when it goes down with a malfunction. This specific drill is designed to teach shooters how to defeat a malfunction.

All standard PPE is required.

Start the drill in the ready position, as if you had just fired and are going to fire again.

If you are using a timer, wait for it to sound off. When it sounds, the drill begins.

If you aren’t using a timer for this drill, just start when ready.

Pistol

Use an empty brass case or a Snap Cap to simulate a complication.

With a pistol, remove the magazine — retain it or drop it (if you’re carrying a spare mag).

Pull the action to the rear several times as you tilt the weapon ejection port down. Once the malfunction is cleared, reload the weapon and fire.

Firing a shot on target completes the drill.

Want to see it in action? Check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense video below.

Rifle

Each rifle functions slightly differently, but this drill assumes you are using a modern rifle. If not, adapt the drill the best you can.

Starting in the firing position, drop the magazine with the firing hand as the nonfiring hand locks the bolt to the rear.

With the bolt to the rear, the jam should clear; if it does not, clear the brass with your hand.

Reinsert the magazine and fire a single shot, and the drill is over.

Shotgun

This drill is for shotguns with tubular magazines — revert to the rifle drill for box mags.

With a pump shotgun pull the pump fully to the rear. If necessary, reach in and remove the malfunction.

With an automatic, lock the bolt back to the rear and clear the malfunction with your hands.

Put another round in the chamber and fire a round.

Make It Harder — Randomly load an empty case into the magazine and let the malfunction surprise you.

2. Failure to Stop a.k.a Mozambique

This drill involves two shots to the chest and one to the head, and it’s the same drill as any weapon platform.

The Failure to Stop Drill, or Mozambique, is mostly useful with a rifle or pistol.

A failure to stop drill with a shotgun tends to be unnecessary, but can be done.

Using a silhouette target with distinguished chest and head areas, set your target up anywhere from 7 to 10 yards with a handgun and 15 to 25 yards with a rifle or shotgun.

If range rules allow, start with the handgun holstered or long gun at the low ready.

On the go signal, fire two rounds into the chest of the target and one round to the head.

Then keep the weapon aimed at the target to ensure it’s down.

This drill stresses shot placement into critical areas of an opponent and also teaches shot transition drills on the same target.

Shot placement is the most critical factor in ending a defensive encounter, more so than any kind of supposed knockdown power.

Make it Harder – Place a 3×5 index card on the chest of the target and a playing card on the head of the target. Shots will only count if they hit the index or playing card. This challenges the shooter’s shot placement skills even more.

Read more about the Mozambique and its origins in our article here!

3. Box Drill

The Box Drill is almost identical to the FSD drill; however, it’s shot on two targets.

Like the FSD, you can use any weapon’s platform to complete this drill…as long as it can hold six rounds.

I place the targets about a yard apart because it’s faster to engage with your dominant hand.

Engage the first target with two to the chest, transition to the second target, and fire two to the chest.

On the second target, take your headshot, then transition and finish the drill with a final headshot on the first target.

This drill stresses shot placement and multiple target engagement.

It forces you to think under stress and focus on kicking ass in a proactive way.

Make it Harder – You can make it a little harder by placing the targets further apart if possible. If not, mix in a reload in between shots. Make it interesting by loading three rounds per magazine and reloading right in the middle of the drill.

4. El Presidente

The El Presidente was designed by the King of Combat handgun shooting, Jeff Cooper. This drill challenges a pistol shooter’s ability to draw, engage, transition targets, reload, and then re-engage multiple targets again.

The drill should be completed in 10 seconds — five if you’re an advanced shooter.

You’ll need three man-sized targets set 1 meter apart, with the targets staged 10 meters from you.

Start with a holstered handgun and a spare mag carried as you please — six rounds in each mag.

You’ll need a timer to really gauge your ability, but if running it just for fun, don’t worry about it.

Begin with your back to the targets, and hands in the air, in the false surrender position.

On the go signal, turn, draw and shoot each target twice. Then reload, and shoot each target two more times.

The drill is quite challenging and does have a lot of moving parts. As such, finding a range that will accommodate it might be tough.

We offer an in-depth dive into El Presidente here.

5. 1 to 5 Drill

Designed by Kyle Lamb, the 1 to 5 Drill is perfect for any modern defensive rifle.

Kyle Lamb was a Sergeant Major in the U.S. Army, a Delta Force Operator, and participated in numerous deployments, including the Black Hawk Down incident. He’s the lead instructor at Viking Tactics and the subject of a serious man-crush on my part.

Lamb designed the drill to stress shooting until the target is down. Instead of focusing on the double-tap and transition, you’ll place a multitude of rounds on multiple targets.

You’ll need three man-size silhouettes set about a yard apart. The targets are only 5 yards from you.

Load one magazine with 15 rounds, insert it and make ready with your rifle.

Start in the low-ready position with your rifle. On the signal, put one shot on the left-most target, two shots into the center target, and three shots into the rightmost target.

Next, you shoot four shots on the center target and finish with five shots on the left target.

You should be able to do this in about five seconds. Anything less means you are doing pretty dang good.

6. Shotgun Casino Drill

I love my shotguns, and there is a drought of shotgun-specific drills.

However, I did see John at Active Self Protection post something called the Shotgun Casino Drill, which is new to me.

Shotguns are low-capacity weapons that require you to learn to reload to run one properly. This drill stresses speed combined with reloads and makes the shooter think.

You’ll need four targets, a pump or semi-auto shotgun, ten rounds of ammo, and a means to carry spare ammo on the gun or body. I prefer side saddles, but it’s up to you.

A shot timer is also required, with the par time set to 30 seconds. All four targets should be set up in a row, placed five yards from the shooter. Load the gun with four rounds.

Your goal is to fire one round into target one, two rounds into target two, three rounds into target three, and four rounds into target four. That’s ten rounds, but you start with only four in the gun.

How you achieve the goal and the method by which you reload is up to you. You can start loading extra rounds as soon as the timer goes off if you choose, reload as needed, or run port reloads after the first four.

It doesn’t matter as long as you get the appropriate amount of rounds into the appropriate targets within 30 seconds.

This drill stresses your recoil mitigation, target transitions, reloading skills, and ability to think under pressure. It’s a fair bit of fun, and you’ll likely have no problems passing.

If you’re faster than the clock, you can always adjust the par time as necessary to make you move faster.

7. Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill

Mike Seeklander is the real deal. He’s a pro shooter, Marine, and an all-around awesome guy.

He teaches classes, has written numerous books, and has contributed to the firearms world in a very positive way. One of his creations is the Shooting and Moving Multidirection Live Fire Drill.

This rifle drill incorporates movement in nearly every possible direction and stresses shooting on the move and proper footwork.

The drill requires a rifle, at least ten rounds, and two obstacles.

Obstacles can be poles, barrels, or anything else suitable. They should be in line with each other and spaced about five feet apart. The target should be set fifteen yards down range.

Start by standing in between the two barrels and then begin walking in a figure 8 around the two obstacles. While walking, have your rifle at the ready and engage the target as you move around the barrels.

This forces you to focus on proper footwork, movement, and accuracy. Use a relatively small target to demand excellent accuracy. Using an IPSC target and focusing only on the A-Zone is a great option.

Make sure you are using a fighter’s style of movement. Avoid crossing your ankles, and move one leg at a time without dragging your feet.

There is not necessarily a par time for this drill; the focus is on moving and shooting.

Due to the movement required, it is wise to practice without live ammo a few times. I run this drill with my Mantis Blackbeard system fairly frequently and get a lot of practice even without live ammo.

8. Sage Dynamics Eleanor

Aaron Cowan at Sage Dynamics was a driving force in the widespread acceptance of optics on duty and defensive handguns.

He’s a soldier and law enforcement officer that now spends his time educating the masses on firearms.

Today we are talking about a drill he devised specifically for handguns and rifles with red dots, although it’s also applied to rifles.

The drill is called the Eleanor and requires you to be both fast and accurate at very close range. It requires a specific target, which is free to print from the Sage Dynamics website.

The idea behind the drill is to practice rapid close-range shooting with excellent accuracy while also being aware of the height over bore issues with a red dot. Depending on your platform, the drill may change slightly.

With a rifle, you fire at five yards from the low ready. With a handgun, you fire from three yards from a holster. For both styles, you’ll need a magazine loaded with four rounds, a shot timer, and the Eleanor target.

At the beep, you’ll shoot the dot in the top of the target with a single round, then transition to the reduced size A zone (aka the square) and fire three rounds into it. Par time is 2.5 seconds to land those four shots.

This drill can be quite a challenge. I’m not ashamed to say I failed it several times and only barely passed when I eliminated concealment as part of the drill.

It’s fast and requires you to remember that height over bore issue and land those shots with a good degree of accuracy.

9. Shoot Two – Load Two

Even in the most kitted-up combat shotguns, you are likely only getting nine rounds or less. So, it’s essential for any shotgunner to know how to reload their weapon.

The S&L drill helps shooters master how to load a shotgun in the middle of using it.

A shotgun’s tubular magazine is an advantage since you can constantly load the gun as you shoot. Being a speedy reloader is the key to mastery.

Place any target downrange, and start 10 yards from it. I prefer to use clay pigeons set on the berm for shotgun training. Shotguns rip targets apart, so paper targets are kind of not needed. Clay pigeons explode and are fun to shoot.

You’ll need at least five shotgun rounds — Three in the tube and two secured outside of the shotgun to load the gun.

Shoot two rounds, reload two shells.

You want to reload with your non-dominant hand and keep the shotgun pointed at the targets.

The key to this drill is repetition. The faster you get, the better.

A way to measure your progress is by keeping time. Shoot two, reload two and observe your time.

Accessories to Maximize Training

I’ve mentioned a few accessories above, and I want to go ahead and double down on just how handy they are.

These tools will make it a lot easier to train and ensure you get the most out of your training.

Shot Timer

A shot timer is an invaluable tool for tracking your skills and ability to shoot.

Sure, a target makes it possible to see how accurate you are, but a shot timer shows how fast you are. You can record the data and track your progress.

A shot timer also adds stress to your shooting, making you work to overcome that stress.

If you can’t afford a shot timer, there are several apps that function decent enough. They aren’t perfect, but they’re better than nothing.

See our round-up of the Best Shot Timers!

Good Targets

While just about any target can work, I prefer targets that resemble an actual opponent. This makes it easy to determine how I’d deal with a real defensive situation.

For a round-up of our faves, see the Best Targets & Stands.

Snap Caps

Snap Caps are invaluable training aids in general — be it dry fire, basic firearm safety, or inducing malfunctions. These rounds are quite distinct from actual rounds but are built perfectly to the spec of a real cartridge. Snap Caps are cheap, easy to find, and are made for nearly any caliber imaginable.

Our faves are below:

• A-Zoom 12 Gauge Snap Caps
• 9mm Luger Snap Caps
• .223 Remington Snap Caps

But we also have an entire article dedicated to the Best Snap Caps for you to look at.

Final Thoughts

When it comes to training, remember that success is not measured overnight. You tend to get better in increments. Be patient and keep training.

For more on basic drills to do at the range, check out the Brownells’ Daily Defense videos below.

Or, for some basic rifle mounting exercises, check out this other video from Brownells.

Or check out the TC Drill below.

Got drills of your own…or any of your favorites we’ve missed? Let us know in the comments below. And if you’re looking to save some money on ammo, check out the Best Low-Round Count Drills and our guide on Dryfire Training.

If you were to rank the most popular baits for catfish, minnows would probably not rank in the top 5…or even top 10 for that matter.

But why is that? We know catfish eat minnows based on their stomach contents…so why aren’t they commonly used as bait?

In this article, ill discuss using minnows for catfish bait…and why you may want to give it a try the next time you are out fishing.

Can you use Minnows for Catfish Bait?

While traditional catfish baits like chicken gizzards, shad and shrimp are all common and effective, do not overlook using regular minnows for catfish bait.

In fact, using minnows for catfish is a tactic that can be very effective in certain bodies of water, depending on the species of catfish and forage available.

Additionally, minnows are usually readily available at bait shops, or easy enough to catch your own.

Which species of catfish eat minnows?

Virtually all species of freshwater catfish will eat minnows, but I’ve had the most success targeting brown bullheads, yellow bullheads, channel catfish, and white catfish.

Flathead catfish love to eat other fish as their primary food source…and although sunfish are a better bait choice, shad, shiners or large minnows can also be very effective.

How to Catch Catfish with Minnows

To specifically target catfish with minnows as bait, you need to fish your baits on or near the bottom. A simple sinker/knocker rig consisting of a circle hook, leader, swivel, and sinker is effective and versatile.

In lakes and ponds, catfish will generally be found near structures and vegetation along the bottom, as they like to hide out and take cover for hours at a time.

See Also: The Best Time Of Day To Catch Catfish

If you are fishing a small area, you can chum the area first with dead minnows to help spread out the scent and attract nearby fish.

Then, cast out your catfish rigs along the bottom. Experiment with different depths to find where the catfish are located.

I like to cast one line in the deepest section, another in the middle depth area, and the last line along the bank or shoreline.

By keeping your minnows on the bottom, you’re less likely to get bites from sunfish, bass, and other fish you may not be targeting.

Which Minnows are Best for Catching Catfish?

Catfish are not too picky when it comes to living bait or fresh (dead bait). Fathead minnows and golden shiners are popular choices, as these are both naturally occurring forage and large enough to target catfish.

However, here in Florida, I’ve used a bundle of small crappie minnows or mosquitofish to target brown bullheads and channel catfish.

Just hook 3-4 minnows on a hook (similar to putting a few worms on a hook). Fish it on the bottom and wait!

PRO TIP: A great money-saving tip for catfish anglers is to ask bait and tackle shops about their dead minnows. They will often give them away for free, as they can’t sell them and do not want to deal with the smell and pests involved with throwing them in the garbage.

Related: How Many Minnows are in a Pound/Gallon/Scoop

How Do You Rig Minnows for Catfish?

One of the most common rigs to catch catfish using minnows is the classic Carolina rig. Be sure to use small gauge circle hooks (2/0-4/0 size is best) and just enough weight to keep your rig along the bottom of the water column.

The Carolina rig is often used by anglers fishing from docks or piers in still water. This bottom fishing rig works to keep the minnow at the bottom of the lake while keeping a natural motion.

This is a “set it and forget it” approach to catfishing, and multiple lines are often used at once. The more the better!

“Slip bobbers” or “float bobbers” also can be helpful tools when river fishing for catfish in rivers, where the current may be too strong to fish on the bottom.

The bobber allows the minnow to stay high enough to float in the current, making it a great target for waiting for catfish near drop-off areas of the river.

I still strongly suggest you keep your floats adjusted so that the minnows are along the bottom of the water column.

How To Hook Minnow When Targeting Catfish?

If I am using live minnows, I will hook them through the tail so they stay alive and flutter/swim while on the bottom. If I am using dead minnows I will usually hook them through the head, as this is the most secure location.

How To Keep Minnows On The Hook

The biggest reason why minnows come off the hook is that the hooks are the incorrect size, or they are cast off and the hooks rip out.

Try using small gauge wire hooks, and match the hook size with your bait and intended target.

For example, If I am trying to catch 1-3 pound brown bullheads, a simple 1/0 circle hook is sufficient.

Related: The Ultimate Catfish Bait Soap Recipe (EASY!)

Are Live or Dead Minnows Better For Catfish?

While live bait is hands down the best option for targeting most species of fish, fresh dead minnows can actually work better when targeting catfish. Catfish rely on smell more than any other sense to find food, and the scent of fresh dead minnow or shiner can release attract catfish.

This technique works particularly well when fishing in creeks and rivers, as the motion of the water will make it less apparent that the fish isn’t moving.

Releasing scent and oils into the water will draw in a variety of fish, working to chum the water while fishing.

Final Thoughts

So, should you use minnows exclusively for catfish bait?

No, that is not what I am suggesting…

But catfish are one of the few freshwater fish you can really experiment with different bait options.

I think you will find that some catfish respond to certain baits better than others, and that may vary from lake to lake.

Next time you are out crappie fishing with minnows for crappie, walleye, or bass…throw a few on a bottom rig and try for some catfish.

You may be surprised at what ya catch!

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• Why You Should Be Using Kool-Aid As Catfish Bait!
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• 5 Effective Ways To Catch Minnows for Bait
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