What is the AuthentX Craze? It’s a new sensation sweeping fish nation…walleye and sauger love plastic! And B Fish N Tackle AuthentX Moxi’s, Pulse-R’s, Ribb-Finn’s, Ringworms, Paddletails and K-Grubs are what you need to drive them sauger and walleye CRA-ZEE! In our opinion these are the best plastics for walleye. But don’t take our word for it, try our five best tips.

Are you fishing where the walleyes are?

But Walt, I bought a bag of your miracle AuthentX soft plastics and can’t catch a fish on them. What am I doing wrong?

First off, you need to go fishing right now on a river with a known population of walleye and sauger. All major rivers of the Great Lakes plus, the Mississippi, Illinois, Missouri, Rock, Fox, St’ Croix, Rainy, Flambeau, Cedar, Iowa…you get the idea…look on a map, find a walleye river and go fishing!

If you want to learn how to catch fish…you need to go to where the fish are, in abundance. Right now the best walleye fishing is where there is an abundance of fish. That’s in the rivers.

How do I find the right spot?

Those river fish are going to be in pre-spawn, spawn or post-spawn right now…they are going to travel right up to the dam and are stacked up like cordwood or they are staging downriver to about five miles. If you want to learn how to catch them quickly…hire a guide!

If you want to figure it out yourself, watch other walleye anglers and see at what depths and areas they are fishing without getting on top of them and messing with their spot. Then find another area just like it and give it a try!

Then try my TOP FIVE ways to fish a jig rigged with AuthentX plastic baits, get the net ready!

Here are the Top Five AuthentX Plastic Techniques, in No Particular Order

Rippin’ Ribb-Finn’s

Some call it Rippin’, others it’s snap jigging and some even call it getting radical. Whatever you call it…it works. It works on aggressive fish, it works on negative fish, but why? Gettin’ radical triggers the walleye’s innate response to it’s natural phenomenon! Actually, I just made that up to see if you were paying attention, I really don’t know why, I am not a scientist.

Gettin’ radical calls for a reaction strike on the part of the fish. It sees Ribb-Finn, it eats Ribb-Finn and rod bends. Speaking of rods I prefer a St. Croix 6’8″ Eyecon Snap Jig rod for all my jig fishing…especially when I’m getting radical. The extra fast rod tip lets me make a good snapping motion and the sensitivity gets the nod for a quick hook set.

To rip a Ribb-Finn or any jig and plastic for that matter, make a cast, let it hit bottom and give it a quick wrist flick of about 6″ to 12,” hold your rod until the jig settles back down and then reel in the slack. Repeat a few more casts with this action. Then, if you don’t get any takers, make a bigger sweep of the rod up to two feet, reel in slack, big sweep…etc.

The key to rippin Ribb-Finn’s is to vary your cadence, try different ripping motions and then repeating what works. This is pretty much how you fish any lure. Once you figure out the action that attracts a fish to snatch your lure, you will have success on the day!

Swingin’ Moxi’s

Some call it swingin’, some call it working the shift. Call it what you want, you can use this technique from boat or shore.

Cast slightly upstream and let your H20 Jig/Moxi combo slide downstream in a controlled drift ticking bottom once in a while. If you use too heavy of a jig, you will snag up. Too light of a jig moves too fast and is out of the attack zone.

When your jig gets to the back of the boat or end of your cast and starts to swing around is usually when a strike occurs. If you don’t get a strike then slowly begin reeling back in. Pause every so often as a fish will often follow it back to the boat or right up to you near shore. I’ve had fish strike in inches of water from shore in the Spring…so be ready to set the !!broken!!

Having the right “feel” is when you go from a guy fishing to a guy catching. Look around at the other anglers on shore or in boats around you. Catching walleye requires skill.

There is always one guy in a boat that catches most of the fish or in a group of shore fisherman, there is always a guy. The key is to gather enough time on the water catching fish to be that guy.

Draggin’ Pulse-R’s

Power dragging involves use of the B Fish N Draggin’ Jig. James Holst and Dave Coons of In- Depth Outdoors TV perfected this technique on the Mississippi River, but it works everywhere. You can pick up a Draggin’ Jig kit with a FREE DVD on how to do it right here.

And here is a quick clip from In-Depth Outdoors to check out on Mississippi River Draggin’

Dubuque Rigging Ringworms

Dubuque rigging rules! Dubuque rigging offers endless possibilities. You can double rig ringworms, use different styles of AuthentX plastic, use plastic on one jig and live bait on the other, you get the idea!

Running your main line to rod to a three-way swivel to a short line to your jig gets to bottom. Then by running a longer line off the 3rd end or the three-way to a lighter jig or a plain hook allows you to run a different type of bait of plastic so you can determine what the hot color and bait is for the day. It’s a great way to figure out an area quickly.

Getting Vertical with AuthentX

Vertical jigging is by far one of the best ways devised by man to catch a walleye or sauger. The late great walleye pros Gary Gray and Tommy Skarlis were two of the best vertical jiggers I’ve personally ever fished next to.

A great vertical jig fisherman can use the absolute lightest jig imaginable that will still remain in contact with the bottom. I’d be jigging with a 1/4 ounce jig in the Illinois River barely feeling bottom and Tommy would be in the boat next to me catching fish with a 1/16th ounce jig, Tommy was a jigging machine!

The key to vertical jigging is matching boat speed to jig speed to current speed. The river speed changes constantly, your jig speed needs to match the current speed and you then adjust your boat speed to match your jig speed.

This is easier with a heavy jig. You can use a 1 to 2 ounce jig and pull upstream or if the current is really fast, over 3 mph you may need to jig slowly downstream. But a larger jig might be too heavy for light biters. In this case you lighten your jig and slide faster downstream while trying to keep you jig vertical and in pace with the current.

AuthentX plastic is great for getting vertical. Moxi’s, Pulse-R’s, Ribb-Finn’s Ringworms and Paddletails all produce! Each has its own unique action. Sometimes a walleye will want it a little slower, sometimes a little quicker, sometimes big and bulky attraction is best, other times sleek and shiny!

You might have a plan in your head on what to do as you are driving to your spot, but be prepared to switch it up and figure what the fish want on a given day.

Word from the Captain

Finally, Here is veteran Rainy River Guide, Captain Chris Granrud of Chris Granrud Fishing with a quick tip for anglers seeking to catch more fish on plastics:

“Our favorite B fish N tackle plastics vary from the Pulse-R, Moxi and Ringworm. All have specific applications we rely upon. A wide variety of shapes and colors serve the angler well.

A quick guide tip involves nipping down the overall size of the plastic by simply cutting away a small portion of the lead edge of the plastic when encountering either a finicky bite or short strikes.”

How to select the right jig

A common question we receive is what weight jig and/or jig weight should anglers plan on bringing up with them. We prefer to utilize the H20 Precision jigs from B fish N Tackle as it offers an important plastic keeper in the form of a wire that sticks through the plastic and holds the plastic in proper position. This jig also is void of a molded collar that can cause damage to the plastic when lacing it up.

Matching jig head colors with color schematics of the plastic can offer those big walleyes a very nice finished offering. As per proper jig weight this is dependent on the flow of the river, technique being employed and the areas of the river anglers are targeting.

As a rule of thumb an angler wants to have a slight contact with the bottom when working a jig back against the current upon a slight drop of the tip.”

(As a special note this same H20 Precision jig head doubles as a fantastic crawler jig with that same wire keeper holding a piece of crawler in perfect position.)

If you enjoyed this article, you will also like these:

• Enjoy the Beautiful Fall Colors and the Best Fall Walleye Baits!
• Tungsten Jigs: New Age Ice Fishing vs. Old School
• Best Walleye Lures: 2 Hot Techniques: How to Fish a Jig

Introduction

Estimating the age structure of a population is a key component of many wildlife management programs, as demographic parameters (e.g., survival and fecundity) that can be important to population modeling are typically age-specific [1-3]. Furthermore, age-specific prevalence rates of highly-transmissible diseases (e.g., chronic wasting disease) have been of recent concern [4,5]. The age structure of harvested animals is typically used to reconstruct a population’s age structure, especially in cervid populations [6,7]. Inaccurate estimates of a population’s age structure could lead to potential downstream impacts on demographic and epidemiological models [7,8].

The most common method used to estimate age of white-tailed deer (Odocoileus virginianus) and other cervids is the tooth replacement-and-wear (TRW) criterion. Severinghaus [9] developed the TRW aging criterion for white-tailed deer based on unique teeth eruptions at younger ages and the wear and degradation of the same premolars and molars of the lower jaw at older ages. Aging deer using the TRW method is popular among management agencies because it can be conducted quickly in the field at relatively little cost [10]. Previous studies have shown the TRW method is prone to considerable error because it is partially subjective, especially at older age classes [10-14]. Error in the TRW method at older ages has led to recommendations to implement TRW aging categories for adult white-tailed deer that bin older age classes together: either suggesting the binning of all deer ≥2 years of age together [10,11,14-16] or differentiating deer 2 years of age from deer ≥3 years of age [12,13,17], with both points-of-view suggesting an independent age class for deer 1 year of age (yearlings), since a unique tooth eruption pattern can often identify the age class [9].

A more labor-intensive and expensive, but more accurate, option for aging deer is cementum annuli (CA) aging, which involves the counting of annual rings, the CA, in the roots of cross-sectioned incisors. Seasonal rates of cementum deposition in the root tips that coincide with body growth produce alternating light and dark bands, with the dark bands representing the CA [18,19]. The CA method has been established as a more accurate method than TRW through the comparison of known-age individuals, especially at northern latitudes [11,13,20]. While CA is more accurate than TRW, with the exception of a sample of 97 known-aged deer in Wisconsin that were aged 100% accurately by the CA method [15], error has been documented with CA aging in relation to known-age individuals with error rates ranging from 15-28% in northern latitudes [11,13,20]. While assessing error rates of CA age estimates in comparison to known-age individuals is the only method to identify the accuracy of CA aging for certain, obtaining known-age individuals is difficult outside of captive facilities and capture-recapture studies. In response to the challenges of obtaining actual accuracy rates of CA aging, evaluating the precision between the CA age estimates of multiple incisors from the same deer is an option for samples from wild populations of unknown ages because if factors known to affect CA accuracy can also be shown to be related to the precision of CA aging, the measurement of precision can provide insight related to accuracy of the CA method [10]. Few studies, however, have evaluated the precision of CA ages in white-tailed deer [10,11,21]. While Roseberry [11] and Storm et al. [10] extracted paired incisors from individual deer after harvest, DeYoung [21] extracted separate incisors one or two years apart from live deer. Precision of CA age estimates has also been examined in other cervids such as mule deer (Odocoileus hemionus; [22]) and moose (Alces alces; [23]). Storm et al. [10] and Asmus and Weckerly [22] examined factors influencing the precision of paired CA ages. Factors included the sex of the individual, precipitation during the individual’s life, the level of certainty assigned to the CA age estimates, as well as the age of the CA age estimates [10,22].

Managers must make decisions on how best to use limited resources when deciding on what methodology to use to age deer. Additional information is needed to help resolve whether, excluding fawns, two (yearling, ≥2 years of age) or three (yearling, 2 years of age, ≥3 years of age) age categories should be used if managers decide to rely on TRW for aging. While the accuracy of CA aging has been thoroughly investigated, further evaluation of factors affecting the precision of CA aging is warranted to provide guidance to managers on what factors they must consider when evaluating CA aging data. To that end, the first objective of this study was to evaluate the precision of the CA aging method of paired incisors from wild male white-tailed deer in Iowa. We hypothesized that precision would decrease as the age of the CA age estimate increased, the level of certainty of the estimate decreased, and that precision would be dependent upon the batches in which the teeth were aged, an a posteriori consideration after viewing the CA data. Our second objective was to evaluate factors influencing the level of certainty assigned to CA age estimates. We hypothesized that the level of certainty in the age estimates would decrease with age and be influenced by the batch in which the age estimates were aged. Our third objective was to assess congruence between the age estimates from the CA and TRW methods specifically when deer aged using TRW were aged exclusively as yearling, 2 years of age, or ≥3 years of age. We hypothesized that congruence between the two aging methods would be greatest within the yearling age class and lower for both of the older age classes because the TRW criteria within the yearling age class relies on the presence or absence of a tooth while older ages are determined by a subjective assessment of tooth wear.

If you want a powerful, versatile lighting solution, the best flashlights still offer advantages over headlamps in many scenarios.

Flashlights point wherever you want, not just where your head is pointing. Also, due to fewer weight constraints, they tend to have more powerful, longer-lasting batteries and incredible power for modest-sized devices.

And to be honest, I’m a flashlight buff. Yes, I also use headlamps a lot when I’m outdoors. But more often than not, I grab a small flashlight from my truck center console and, if I need two hands for a project, clasp it in my teeth. I just love having the ability to point it wherever I want without having to crane my neck in a specific direction.

So if you love torches, read on for what we’ve determined to be the best flashlights available today. Because GearJunkie focuses on the outdoors, I rated these based on weight, size, battery life, color rendering, and lighting versatility. You can learn a lot more about how I tested and chose these flashlights below, but right up top, I’d like to state that this guide focuses on truly excellent flashlights that can perform day in and day out — whether you use a light professionally or simply need one for camping or to store at home for a power outage.

This isn’t a list of “light cannons,” as you’ll rarely need one million candlepower model. But, I did include one monster in case super-powered lighting is your jam.

Be sure to read the buyer’s guide and frequently asked questions for helpful tips. Also, have a look at our comparison chart to help steer your decision-making.

Editor’s Note: For our September 6th, 2024 update, we tested the Coast G32 and added it to our lineup. This model is a good budget choice with the option to upgrade to a rechargeable battery.

The Best Flashlights of 2024

• Best Overall Flashlight: FENIX PD36R PRO
• Best Budget Flashlight: ThruNite Archer 2A V3 Cool White
• Best Value Zooming Flashlight: Coast G32
• Best EDC Flashlight: NITECORE EDC27
• Most Versatile Flashlight: NITECORE P20iX 4000 Lumen USB-C Rechargeable Tactical Flashlight
• Best Flashlight With Long Range: Olight Warrior X Pro
• Best Flashlight With Zooming Lens: LEDLENSER MT10 Flashlight
• Best Flashlight for Mechanics: Blackfire Rechargeable Weatherproof Magnetic Flashlight With Lantern

Flashlights Comparison Chart

Why You Should Trust Us

In short, our primary flashlight testers are not just super into the outdoors; they’re also flashlight nerds. We really love the technology that goes into flashlights and headlamps. As the author of this article, I personally spend hours every month testing the newest flashlights to see if they can outperform our favorites listed here.

For the record, it takes a long time and impressive performance for a flashlight to earn a spot in this article. I constantly test new flashlights and updates from our favorite brands and update this article many times each year to keep it up to date with the best flashlights available.

This article has evolved significantly since it was first published back in 2018. At that time, it explained in depth why I love flashlights, and how they are different in use from headlamps. I still love flashlights for their directionality and ease of use in many situations. However, our team has done much more testing since this guide’s inception — and has new recommendations based on those results.

So, how do I test flashlights? First, I use them in controlled environments, measuring both runtime and brightness compared to claimed numbers. I put them on a scale to check the weights. I submerse them in water and drop them onto concrete.

These flashlights also get significant field testing. Our team takes them on all kinds of adventures — hiking, mountaineering, backpacking, hunting, boating, and camping are all part of the mix. Most of our team’s tests occur in the mountains of Colorado and fields and forests of the Midwest.

I take all this information and experience and compile the best advice for you. Over the years I’ve tested about 50 flashlights specifically for this buyer’s guide, selected from hundreds pitched to me by brands and examined at events like SHOT Show and the Outdoor Retailer convention. My goal is to give you the same advice I give my best friends.

Buyer’s Guide: How to Choose a Flashlight

There are a few important specs to consider when choosing a flashlight: size and weight, max power output (usually noted in lumens), minimum power output, runtime (especially in lower modes), durability, and waterproofness.

Before we get into some of those details, I’d like to share some details about how I chose flashlights to test for this article. And there have been a lot of them.

First, I look for flashlights that work well for both home and outdoor use. This means I look for higher output than flashlights intended primarily for indoor use. I also only include flashlights that can function after at least a 1m drop, are water-resistant, and have a max runtime of at least 8 hours — enough to get you through a summer night at a minimum.

Next comes the question of batteries. Because of the efficiency of modern flashlights, there are now just two real choices: flashlights that run on AA or AAA batteries, or rechargeable flashlights that run off one of many higher-end battery systems and are almost always included in the light. Gone are the days of giant D-cell flashlights. But there is still a significant argument between those who believe disposable batteries or rechargeable batteries are better. I will get into it more below, but our team likes rechargeable batteries more in most cases.

Lumens: Max Output

For most campers, anything over 1,000 lumens is overkill. You’ll often find yourself using much lower settings, especially around camp. However, those big numbers can be nice, especially if you need to see faraway objects.

Battery Life

Another important consideration is if the flashlight uses its own rechargeable battery or if it runs on disposable batteries. Most people will get more value out of a flashlight that offers long runtimes and is easy to recharge.

Battery Type

As noted above, our team prefers rechargeable batteries in most situations. Most rechargeable batteries, such as the 21700 rechargeable li-ion battery included in the Fenix PD36R PRO, offer superior performance to both disposable and rechargeable AA or AAA batteries. But more importantly, flashlights that include this type of high-end rechargeable battery do not have hidden costs. And those who will use a battery more than casually will find that the cost of batteries will very quickly add up to more than the cost of the flashlight.

Next, rechargeable flashlights generally have a charging port or system built in. As you can see with our choices, our favorite flashlights today use USB-C charging. This is quickly becoming the industry standard as it is much faster than micro-USB charging. And unlike magnetic charging systems (or other proprietary chargers), you can easily find a USB-C cable anywhere and likely own several already.

One final note on AA and AAA batteries. Some folks argue that it is easier to replace batteries in the field than to charge them. Our testers have carried small battery chargers on many adventures, and they work great with flashlights for long trips. For trips over a week or two in length, though, disposable batteries still have an edge.

So keep battery and charging style in mind when you buy a flashlight. It will make a difference when you’re packing for a trip as to how many cables you’ll need to bring, or if you’ll need to buy batteries continually through the life of the product.

However, it’s convenient to quickly change batteries and refresh your flashlight in the field. Both are valid options but consider how you’ll use the light (and if you mind constantly buying new batteries).

Quality and Output

Modern LED flashlights vary in the quality of their color rendering, meaning you can see color better with some higher-end lights. The best flashlights on the market should always give you a colorized, realistic view.

Better-quality lights also tend to have more efficient LEDs. Some even have “regulators” that electronically manage the power output, resulting in consistent lighting. To expand on that, first understand that most flashlights, even very good ones, lose a little output as they run and deplete the battery. Better flashlights use a regulator to manage this drop-off. Poor flashlights tend to lose power consistently over time, gradually becoming less and less useful as the battery slowly drains.

FAQ

Interest in sub-gauge shotguns has resurged for hunters over the last several years, and the turkey woods are no exception. With companies offering more choke tubes and TSS turkey loads for 20 gauge, .410, and even the 28 gauge, hunters are realizing the value and efficacy of small-bore shotguns.

While the 12 gauge still reigns supreme in the turkey woods, sub-gauges offer surprising pattern densities, range, and reduced recoil — all aspects that make them more than capable gobbler-getters. When it comes to turkey-specific guns, Mossberg leads the charge.

This spring, I had the privilege of testing and hunting with theMossberg 500 Turkey Optic-Ready .410. The light weight, short (24-inch) barrel, and decent range make this shotgun perfect for all-day hunts or for new and youth hunters who could use a lot less recoil. Even if you don’t take advantage of the recessed receiver, this shotgun comes ready to hunt out of the box.

In short: The Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey can give you plenty of range without the weight or punishing recoil of your typical (12 gauge) turkey gun.

Mossberg 500 Optic-Ready .410 Turkey: Review

Overview

Out of the box, the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey comes with a front fiber optic sight, a 24-inch barrel, and Mossy Oak’s popular Green Leaf pattern — hallmarks of the turkey-specific shotgun. However, the Optic-Ready version also includes a recessed receiver that allows you to mount a red dot directly on it. Specifically, the .410 Turkey features the Shield RMSc footprint and accommodates the Holosun HS407k (which I used). It also includes a recoil pad (though unnecessary) and a factory XF choke.

Testing the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey

After receiving the shotgun and Holosun HS407k, I dialed in the red dot (which is actually green). I started with a box of Winchester Double X no. 7s. Once I had the point of impact where I wanted, I finetuned the setup with Federal Premium Heavyweight TSS no. 9s. One shot at 25 yards produced a tight, dense pattern — more than enough pellets to drop a turkey in its tracks.

At 40 yards, the pattern spread out significantly but still placed 94 pellets within a 10-inch circle. This is good, out-of-the-box shooting, and I would expect an aftermarket choke (with the right TSS load) to produce even better results.

Afield, this shotgun is surprisingly nimble. It includes swivel studs, but you won’t need a sling on this .410. The Mossberg 500 .410 feels light in the hand, and it’s a joy to tote through the woods. Even on days where I covered several miles, I never missed a sling.

Where the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey Falls Short

Mossberg 500s are proven, tough actions, and the company is no stranger to pump-action shotguns. That being said, 500s have a bit of play in the forend. This hasn’t affected performance, and this is totally subjective, but I’ve never been a fan of the loose fit.

The fiber optic front post is nothing fancy. I would rather see a white or gold bead, but since it is turkey-specific, the norm trends toward FO. Overall, the price ($650) is decent. You’re not getting a steal, but for a ready-to-hunt turkey gun, it’s fair.

Compared to 12 and even 20 gauge, turkey ammo for a .410 isn’t cheap. Most .410 turkey ammo options are limited to TSS, so you can expect to spend at least $8 per shell (Winchester offers a copper-plated lead shot, but it didn’t pattern well enough for me to consider it with this particular setup).

By the time you fine-tune your setup and understand how your shotgun patterns at different ranges, you’ll have spent at least $100 in ammo before you’ve even thought about roosting a bird.

Where the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey Excels

I looked forward to hunting with this gun every time I took it out of the case. It’s light in the hand, pleasant to shoot, and it would also make for an exceptional squirrel gun. For the turkey woods, you can also balance it on your knee with one hand. If you do take advantage of the recessed receiver, it’s easy to form a nice cheek weld on the comb even with a red dot, and there’s no denying the proven 500 action.

Final Thoughts

While the interest in sub-gauges continues to rise, ammo manufacturers should eventually offer more turkey load options. If you prefer calling them close, the Mossberg 500 .410 Turkey offers a great entry, especially for youth or new hunters itching to turkey hunt.

Introduction

Have you ever seen a moose in person? If not, you might not realize just how HUGE these creatures are! Moose make humans look tiny in comparison. In this article, we’ll explore how moose size stacks up to the average person.

Moose Height vs. Human Height

First, let’s talk about moose height versus human height. Bull moose, which are the males, stand a whopping 6 to 7 feet tall at the shoulders. That’s before you even count their antlers! Cow moose, the females, are just slightly shorter at around 5 to 6 feet tall.

Now let’s compare that to the size of a typical human. The average adult man is about 5 feet 9 inches tall. That means a bull moose can be over 2 feet taller than a man! If an average man walked up to a bull moose, he would just reach the moose’s shoulder. A cow moose is still at least several inches taller than a man.

Already from the height alone you can tell that moose are huge compared to us. But it gets even crazier when you look at their weight.

The Immense Weight of Moose

Bull moose tip the scales at 800 to 1,600 pounds on average. Cow moose weigh between 600 to 800 pounds usually. How much does a typical grown man weigh? Around 180 pounds.

So if you did the math, you’d find that one bull moose outweighs an average adult male human by 8 times! Picture 8 grown men standing on a scale. Then picture one moose on the other side. The moose side would drop way down with all that weight!

The Incredible Length of a Moose

The moose’s giant body isn’t just tall and heavy either. They also have an incredible length. From their nose to their tail, moose measure between 6 to 8 feet without the tail included. Add another 1 to 2 feet with the tail, and you get a moose length of 7 to 10 feet. How long is the average man? Around 5 feet 9 inches tall.

So a moose is longer than a full grown man is tall! If a man lay down head to toe next to a moose, the moose would be spilling over extra on both ends. These creatures are absolute giants!

Visualizing the Size Difference

Now that you know the basic height, weight and length of moose, let’s imagine what it would look like if a moose and human stood side by side. Picture it: a 6-foot-tall moose shoulder towering above the man’s head. The massive moose weighs 8 times more than the human. And the moose’s body is so long it’s spilling over the man by several feet in both directions.

When you visualize the size difference, it really paints a picture of how small we are next to these giant animals. If you ever saw a moose in the wild, you would have to crane your neck back just to see to the top of its back. And you could stand between its legs with plenty of room to spare.

Comparing Measurements

Another way to get a sense of scale is to think about specific measurements. For example, a bull moose can have an antler spread of up to 6 feet wide. That’s wider than some bedrooms! Their huge antlers alone could cover an entire person underneath.

Or consider that a moose’s shoulder is often 6 to 7 feet high. That’s the same height or taller than a basketball hoop! Imagine a creature the height of a basketball hoop but much, much bigger. That’s a massive moose!

Respecting the Size Difference

Now I know some of you might think, who cares how big moose are? Why does it matter if they’re so much larger than us? Well, the size difference has some important impacts on how we interact with moose.

For one thing, the immense size of moose means they need to be respected. Because they are so giant and powerful, moose can be very dangerous if they feel threatened. They do not run away from humans like deer often do. Instead, their size makes them confident enough to stand their ground if they perceive a confrontation.

There have been instances where moose have seriously injured or even killed people when they felt cornered or provoked. Given their gigantic stature, it’s easy for a moose to view a human as a pest rather than a threat. So people must be mindful to keep their distance and never purposefully approach or chase moose.

The huge size of moose also determines how we have to hunt them. Special rifles and ammo are required to successfully and ethically hunt such enormous game. And once they’re harvested, the meat and antlers are so bulky that machinery is needed to transport them. It takes serious manpower and equipment to hunt an animal as big as a moose!

Conclusion

So in summary, moose are massive creatures, especially in comparison to us humans. A bull moose can stand over 7 feet tall, weigh up to 1,600 pounds, and span almost 10 feet long. That makes them taller, bulkier, and longer than any person.

The next time you see a picture or video of a moose, take a moment to appreciate their immense size. It takes seeing one in person to fully grasp just how much they dwarf us humans. We must respect the incredible stature of these giants whenever we share their wilderness habitat. So think how tiny and fragile we are relative to these mammoth mammals roaming the northern forests!

FAQs

How tall is a moose compared to a human?

An adult bull moose can stand 6-7 feet tall at the shoulders, not including antlers. Cow moose are slightly smaller at 5-6 feet tall. The average adult human male is around 5 feet 9 inches tall. So a bull moose can be over 2 feet taller than a man.

How much does a moose weigh versus a human?

Bull moose weigh 800-1,600 lbs on average. Cow moose weigh 600-800 lbs. The average adult human male weighs around 180 lbs. A bull moose can weigh over 8 times more than a man.

How wide are moose antlers compared to humans?

Bull moose antlers can span 5-6 feet from tip to tip. That’s wider than some door frames and bedrooms! Moose antlers alone can cover an entire human underneath them.

Dicks Sporting Goods offers a generous return policy for their customers, however, there are a number of things to be aware of which we’ll cover below.

The company was established by Richard Dick Stack in 1948. Dicks Sports return policy is very generous in its terms and conditions, which is very convenient for its users.

We’ll discuss the terms outlined in their return policy, including refunds, exchanges and how to return your goods.

Dicks Sporting Goods Returns

Customers can return their goods within 60 days of purchase, either by mail or in-store, according to the company’s terms in the Dicks Sporting Goods return policy. Dicks Sporting Good return policy allows you to return unworn, unwashed, undamaged, or defective merchandise purchased online or in-store.

Moreover, the company has extended its return period to 90 days for both online and in-store orders from the previous 60 days. This has also extended for Calia and Field, Golf Galaxy and Stream.

Most products are returnable within 30 days at Dick’s Sporting Goods Warehouse stores, which has a separate policy in place.

How To return Products at Dick’s Sporting Goods

Dicks returns gives you two options to return its product – by mail or by visiting any of the Dicks stores. We have provided the details of both the return policies below

Dicks Sporting store return policy

Before returning your products, make sure that it is unworn, unwashed, and undamaged.

Here are some easy steps to go through, if one wants to return the merchandise by paying a visit to the nearest store:

• You can locate your nearest store by visiting this link.
• When you know your local store to return your product, pack your product in the original packing.
• Accompany your product with an original slip.
• Store personnel will help you in processing your return.
• Your refund will be immediately processed to your original form of payment.

You can also contact your local store operator to know more.

return policy for online Via mail

Are you too lazy to walk-in to your nearest store, Dicks provides you the option to return the items by mailing it to them.

The company will issue a refund for the purchase price of the item within 60 days of return.

To return items by mail, you need to go through the following steps:

• To start your return with Dick’s Sporting, visit the website.
• Go to the return page by visiting this link.
• Fill in the order details and Zip code and proceed as per given instructions, and you will get the return label.
• Click on the “Find order” tab to go to your order details.
• The return label has a return department address (place of returning), and the packing slip contains the specific instructions to return.
• Attest the return label to your package.
• Now you can schedule a pickup or drop off at the carrier of your choice or UPS drop-off location.

Shipping and handling charges are not refundable.

Exchange Policy

Dicks Sporting exchange policy for the company is the same as its return policy, you need to return your items within 90 days to get the product exchanged.

Follow the below steps to get your product returned:

• Start your return by visiting the website and follow the instructions as given in the ‘return by mail’ process.
• Place the new order for the replacement.

See Also: Wayfair Return Policy

Refund Policy

Returns are generally directed to the original mode of payment by Dicks, make sure that the items are in original condition.

• If you return your item in the store, it can take up to 14 business days for the refund to be processed to your original form of payment. If it’s been more than 14 days, you should first reach out to your bank or aggregator.

• If you have returned your item by online mode, it usually takes 2—3 weeks from DICK’S Sporting Goods to receive your return for a credit to be issued. Dicks will issue Refunds to the original form of payment for the purchase price of the item, including sales tax

Exclusions

They have a different policy for different products like dicks shoe return policy, dicks bike return policy, dicks sporting goods kayak return policy, dicks sporting goods return policy for online stuff, etc.

Dicks sporting goods return policy is pretty favorable for its customers; it requires you to return the items before 90 days to get a full refund. It takes 14 days for processing of your return:

If you wish to return without receipt, you can do so without an original sales receipt or pack slip, but the product must be returned using a valid ID, and you will receive a store credit for the lowest selling price.

FAQs

Can I return Items To Dicks Without a Receipt?

Returning goods to Dicks Sporting Goods without a receipt is possible, however, you may only be eligible for store credit and are required to present your ID. It may be possible to receive an email copy of your receipt. All decisions are final and at the discretion of management.

Conclusion

Do you know that Dick’s sporting entered into women’s athletics in 2015 and into team sports in 2016?

Dick’s Sporting Goods offer quality products, but then also you end up getting a damaged item… Hard luck! Don’t worry and file a return request immediately.

Don’t forget to check these out – GameStop, and Nike Return Policy.

For further queries about Dicks Sporting Goods return policy, I’d suggest you comment down below and our experts are more than happy to answer.

Related: Kroger Return Policy

Damages to agriculture across Texas as a result of feral swine problems can add up quickly in areas where the unwanted animals are multiplying at alarming rates. From crop losses, fence damages, contamination of water sources and the potential for the spread of disease, farmers and ranchers are concerned about the escalating problems feral swine pose and the growing costs of dealing with the problem.

But a few Texas property owners are discovering that, like turning lemons into lemonade, feral swine problems can be turned inside out to become a source of non-traditional farm or ranch income.

Leave it to the entrepreneurial spirit of Americans, especially Texans, who can see an opportunity even when one doesn’t seem to exist.

(See related story: Feral hog numbers explode in US and worldwide)

In spite of all the well deserved bad press feral swine have accumulated over the years, there are two reasons that a few (and growing number of) Texans view the wild and wooly creatures in a positive light. The first would be those who either enjoy hunting the creatures or those who accept payment to allow others to hunt them on their property.

Believe it or not, some exotic hunting ranches in Texas charge as much as $900 to target and shoot a large ‘wild boar’. On the low end, hunters pay around $120 to hunt large wild hogs on hunting leases.

The second group of wild swine fans in Texas consists of wild/exotic meat processors and their many customers, mostly from Europe, who favor wild boar meat and often consider it a delicacy. One such “natural” meat company, Frontier Meats of Ft. Worth, markets their popular wild boar bacon to both a growing domestic and foreign buyer base.

In both cases, and in most instances, these ‘wild boars’ are what most of us call feral hogs trapped live on farms and ranches all across Texas and held in specially designed holding pens and sold to buyers for cash.

According to a comprehensive study conducted by a number of academic and government agencies, traditionally the wild boar is a game animal hunted and served in the Northern and Eastern European countries. A taste for this meat remains in Europe. Therefore, Europe is a targeted market for the distribution and sale of Texas feral swine meat.

In the United States, wild boar meat is viewed as an exotic meat served at game meat restaurants, or as a source meat for sausage and jerky products. Therefore, meat brokers catering to the game meat restaurant trade and producers who make a further processed added value meat product are targets for sales efforts.

Feral hog opportunity

A fledgling marketing opportunity also exists in the United States. Direct marketing of wild boar meats through select grocery store chains is being tried in a few test markets to gauge the interest for direct sale of individually packaged branded name wild boar meat.

The laboratory testing of the meat derived from the Texas feral swine indicates that on average it tends to carry less fat than normal domestic swine, making the nutritional information labels look more inviting to a health conscious consumer. By using large slaughter and cutting plants such as Frontier Meats in North Texas and Southern Wild Game in Devine (South Texas), the quality of the meat and the cuts can be monitored more closely and presented to the customer in a pleasing format that makes the product more appealing to a final consumer.

It’s interesting to note that wild game meat processors who market wild swine meat are subject to both stringent USDA and European Union rules and inspections.

As far as how profitable trapping feral swine can be for property owners, the latest available numbers indicate the average price per pound for live animals ranges greatly from 20 cents a pound for animals under 100 pounds to as much as 60 cents a pound for larger swine. If the animal is being purchased by an exotic game ranch for hunting purposes, only boars are allowed by state law. And it should be noted that the Texas Animal health Commission (TAHC) requires all holding pens to meet strict guidelines to prevent feral swine from escaping and/or mixing with domestic swine, and strict record keeping is required on all trapped feral swine. Only disease free animals can be sold.

Already, nearly fifty farms and ranches have received permits for TAHC approved holding pens, so it appears that many farms and ranches are beginning to embrace the idea of turning lemons into lemonade—or in this case, wild swine into bacon and sausage.

For more information about approved holding pen requirements, click here.

What is hunting? Hunting is the art of killing animals to serve different purposes. These purposes include eliminating pests, and food, and dealing with the problem of overpopulation. People carry out different hunting projects, be it school projects or personal ones. The purpose of the hunting slogans is to make hunting look more exciting and a fun activity to carry out.

Catchy Hunting Slogans

Here is a list of the catchy Hunting Slogans

Nice rack!

Hooked on quack!

Hunt like a girl!

Hunting is an art.

The buck drops here.

Happiness is hunting.

I’d rather be hunting…

Don’t only live, Hunt!

We eat. Therefore we hunt.

The girl’s gone hunting.

Hunting is not for cowards.

This girl knows how to hunt.

Keep calm and aim at the heart

Rise n shine. It’s huntin’ time!

You have to be loyal to hunting.

Driving trucks and hunting bucks!

PETA: People eating tasty animals.

Life is a game; hunting is serious

List of Top 10 Hunting Slogans

1. Born to hunt
2. Live. Laugh. Hunt.
3. If it hops it drops.
4. This babe bags bucks!
5. Keep calm and aim and fire
6. Live to hunt. Hunt to live.
7. If you chum, they will come.
8. Real men hunt for their food.
9. No guts mean no glory at all.
10. I don’t wear bows, I shoot them.

Duck Hunting Slogans

I’ve made a list of the best duck hunting slogans that would help you with your specific assigned projects. As the name specifies, the duck hunting slogans talk about hunting ducks making it look cool. You can look for yourself by going through the following slogans

Duck. Duck. Boom!

The duck stops here.

Happiness is hunting.

Tis the season to be hunting.

Let’s play duck, duck, moose!

Driving trucks and hunting bucks!

Life is a game; hunting is serious

Hunting: Making small men feel macho

If I’m not hunting, I’m thinking about it.

I like big bucks and I cannot lie.

I love to make memories in the forest

Deer hunters have their own impression

You don’t have to regret being a hunter

Vegetarian: Old Indian word for bad hunter.

I love three things, Deer, ducks, and Elks.

I love adventures, but not more than hunting

I need a gun, and a forest to show my skills.

Some girls play house, real girls go hunting.

Hunt Daaaaay! C’mon, you know what day it is!

Hunting is not a sport, it’s a way of life.

Life is a game, and hunting is its play button

In my year, there are two seasons. Deer and Elk.

If you’re too busy to hunt, then you’re too busy!

Protect your hunting rights; spay or neuter a liberal!

Here I would like to add a point and inform you all, that hunting slogans are often also used for the purpose of discouraging hunting. The following slogans are an example of it, where the people who hunt are looked down upon!

• Put a stop to trophy hunting!
• Hunting will be a sport when animals shoot back!
• There are no hunting accidents. It’s called karma!

Turkey Hunting Slogans

Some essential gears are required for the hunting of Turkeys. And the companies selling these gears and types of equipment make use of the turkey hunting slogans to attract more customers to buy from them. Some of the Turkey hunting slogans include:

Down to Feast

Turkey Wasted

Talk Turkey to Me

Let’s Get Basted

Turkey & Touchdowns

Let’s Get Stuffed

Gobble till You Wobble

Get Your Fat Pants Ready

Be Grateful & Give Thanks

Thankful, Grateful, Blessed

Football, Feast, Nap, Repeat

Nobody Diets on Thanksgiving

Football, Turkey, Nap, Repeat

Save a Turkey, Kill a Workout!

Gather Here with Grateful Hearts

Let Our Hearts be Full of Both Thanks & Giving

Being Grateful Turns What You HAVE Into ENOUGH

I’m Into Fitness…As in Fitness Pumpkin Pie in my Mouth!

For All the Blessings in My Life, I Will Celebrate with a Fork & Knife

Give Thanks, Give Cheer, Not Only on Thanksgiving but All Through the Year

Deer Hunting Slogans

The deer hunting slogans assist in coming up with slogans that could be used on different channels and pages pursuing deer hunting. Deer hunting is a fun activity, and many people earn through it by attracting more people to it. Some of the deer hunting slogans include:

I’d rather be hunting…

There’s no season like deer season.

Some girls play house, real girls go hunting.

My year has four seasons. Deer, elk, turkey, duck.

Shootin’ deers and drinkin’ beers. That’s how I roll!

Hunting isn’t a port, it’s a call to something greater.

Hunting is not for kids, it is a gentlemen’s game.

My year has four seasons. Deer, elk, turkey, duck.

If you want to hunt a deer, consistency is the key.

There are no accidents in hunting, I call it Karma.

If I am not hunting, definitely I am thinking about it

Protect your hunting rights; spay or neuter a liberal!

Some people are good at hunting, others are just people

Hunting isn’t a port, it’s a call to something greater.

Deer hunting would be a fine sport, only if deer had guns.

To be a successful hunter, you just need to know your ground.

If you haven’t gone hunting yet, you haven’t seen anything yet

Knowing your ground and pack is the most important thing in hunting.

Fishing poles and hunting gear. Dreams of bass and big ol’ deer.

Hunting Phrases

• “If we act like prey, they’ll act like predators”
• “You not only are hunted by others, you unknowingly hunt yourself.”
• “The search for a scapegoat is the easiest of all hunting expeditions.”
• “Found the sheep too easy to kill?’ I ask. ‘Where’d you get the weapon”
• “People never lie so much as after a hunt, during a war, or before an election
• “The more a woman appreciates the hunting prowess of her man, the more he will kill for her.”
• The way humans hunt for parking and the way animals hunt for food are not as different as you might think.
• The fascination with shooting as a sport depends almost wholly on whether you are at the right or wrong end of the gun.
• “I have a knife in my boot,” she said, and then wondered, for a moment, if she could throttle a moose with her bare hands.”
• “Was there any more repellent sight, Harriet wondered than a silly, self-centered, greedy woman clad in the skin of a beast so much more splendid than herself”
• “I ask people why they have deer heads on their walls. They always say it because it’s such a beautiful animal. There you go. I think my mother is attractive, but I have photographs of her.”

In short, Hunting is a skill that needs to be boosted time by time, and using hunting slogans is the best way to do so. Many cool and motivating slogans have been mentioned in this article, which can help prompt people to hunt more. The hunting slogans have made hunting look very spellbinding. It is quite appalling as the hunting slogans also somewhat have a story to tell!

Every hunter dreams of an instant kill, where their prey simply hits the ground dead. It’s the perfect shot, the best intention, and the only way to make sure the animal doesn’t suffer. Here, we’ll take a look at your placement when you’re trying to take down the gobbler you’ve got your eye on.

Broadside

If the turkey approaches you broadside, the best place to put your shot is right where the wing joints to the body. You’ll slice through heart and lungs and there is no more instant kill than that. Plus, should you miss your mark by an inch or two on any side of this shot, you’ll still hit enough necessary organs to take the bird down in one go (almost certainly).

We do have to note that broadside shots are usually the most preferred to take with both firearms and archery since they allow for a much larger target and an easier spot. Plus, broadside shots allow you to see spurs on gobblers and assure you that the bird you’re shooting is not a hen.

Above the Beard

Maybe your gobbler is just demanding that you shoot it from the front. It wants to look you in the eye when you put it down and you know what? You’re game for that.

Shoot just above the bird’s beard to get that turkey’s pretty fan on your wall. Shooting under will likely damage the breast meat and may cause a gut shot, which could end up ruining the entire bird. If you take the turkey with a shot above the beard but below the neck, you’ll go straight through the heart and lungs once again and put it down in a blink.

Where the Fan Meets

Or maybe you’re experiencing the opposite problem. The turkey won’t turn around and is being, well, a turkey. In this case, we recommend calling vigorously to try to get the gobbler’s attention. A broadside or front shot is so much easier than trying to knock off the bird’s backside.

However, we take whatever shots we can, right? It’s more important to bag your bird than it is to let it get away because it’s only showing its back to you.

Shoot at the base of the fan, just below the actual tail of the bird but above the cloaca. Unfortunately, you’ll likely see some meat loss with this shot but that doesn’t matter quite as much if you’re just after the fan and you’re feeding your dogs the rest. Still, even if you’re just after the fan, this probably isn’t the best shot in the world, anyway.

Try to get the bird to turn, but take what you can if it won’t.

From Behind

Maybe the turkey doesn’t even care enough to flip its fan at you. That, or you’re after a bearded hen that you’ve had your eye on and she couldn’t care less. Go ahead and shoot in the same position, but across the back rather than from underneath the fan. You’re looking to aim for the tail joint at the body and sort of up along the spine rather than down into the body cavity.

Again, ideally, you get the turkey to turn your way and try to get that broadside or front shot. If you can’t, the joint of the tail and the body is a simple place to put a shot.

The Head Debate

It is preferred to kill a turkey by placing a body shot across the heart or lungs to ruin as little meat as possible and to kill the bird instantly. After all, we want their meat and the trophies, and we want the turkey to die as fast as possible.

So why not try for a headshot and be done with it?

Turkeys have incredibly tiny brains. Anyone who’s watched them for a while will probably chuckle at that, but we aren’t making fun of their intelligence. Instead, this is a simple fact. The heart and lungs of a turkey are far larger than the brain and better targets. Yes, your rifle is probably going to completely behead that turkey if you manage to get a really solid shot at it.

The target is tiny, the brain is minuscule, and you don’t want to take a bird’s beak off and leave it to starve to death by a misfire. A body shot will kill almost any bird, even if you don’t clip the heart and lungs. The damage done to the internal system of the turkey is simply too much for the body to bear. That isn’t so if you miss their very small head (and smaller brain).

Bottom Line

We strongly recommend either a broadside or a front-facing shot. These are the easiest to take and assure that the bird is probably dead before it hits the ground.

Looking for some more tips? Check out our other articles: 15 Expert Tips for Spring Turkey Hunting and How to Clean a Wild Turkey.

A lot of livestock produce manure that can be used in your gardens and on your grass but not all manure is the same. The manure that chickens produce is different from the manure that ducks produce.

This article looks into the differences between chicken manure and duck manure.

Duck manure vs Chicken manure:

You can keep both chickens and ducks on your property to produce eggs, for meat, or even as pets. Both can produce manure that plants can use but the manure isn’t the same, here are the key differences between the two:

The consistency:

If you own chickens and ducks you’ll know that the consistency of these birds’ poop is not the same.

Chickens produce poop that is fairly solid in consistency, it isn’t wet but rather soft. The poop also has a white material on top which is called urates. Chicken poop is also brown or green in color.

Duck poop, on the other hand, is quite runny, this is perfectly normal for ducks. The poop will usually be white in color or will take on the color of whatever the bird is eating.

That being said, the poop of both of these animals can vary in size, shape, and color depending on different situations.

The quantity:

The amount of poop that these birds produce varies slightly.

Chickens poop quite frequently but there are slightly longer breaks between their poops when compared to duck poop. These birds will poop every 20- 30 minutes or so.

Ducks, on the other hand, poop quite a lot, these birds can poop every 15 to 20 minutes on average. These birds will thus produce a lot more poop on a daily basis than chickens will.

Both of these animals have no need to have any control over their bowel movements so both birds will poop wherever they so, please.

Hot or cold:

Whether or not an animal’s poop is hot or cold makes a difference in how you can use it as a fertilizer.

Chicken poop is considered to be “hot’, if poop is classified as hot then this means that the poop contains so much nitrogen that it will burn any plants that you use it directly on.

The poop will cause the plants to wither quickly because it is hot. Hot manure will also cause plants to brown and be stunted.

Duck poop is not considered to be hot, the poop still has high amounts of nitrogen in it but because of its consistency, it will not burn the plants when used in your garden.

When it can be used:

If an animal’s poop is hot then it needs to be processed, by decomposing, before you can apply it to your plants.

Because chicken manure is hot you would have to compost it with carbon-rich materials before you can use it on your plants. Carbon-rich materials include straw and leaves.

Duck manure can be used directly on your plants and will not burn the plants if you choose to not compost the poop first.

That being said, it is recommended that all animal poop for use as fertilizer be composted, mixed, or pelletized before use.

Doing this will increase the nutrient availability of the manure, will change its handling characteristics, and control any pathogens.

How to use it:

You can use chicken poop as fertilizer but you’d need to compost it before you do this.

This involves piling the poop and the carbon-rich materials in layers and letting it sit. This heap needs to be kept moist and aerated throughout the decomposing process.

After a couple of months of this, the poop will be cooler and can be applied to your plants. The heap will become crumbly and black when ready and then it can be applied to your plants or grass.

Duck poop can be used directly on your plants but it may be more difficult to collect because it is runny.

You can shovel the poop and apply it on your plants or you can use the soiled water that your ducks swim in and pour this water on your plants.

If you enjoyed this article then you may also be interested in other duck related articles. Here are some articles that you may be interested in: Duckling Vomiting, Do Geese Get Cold, Why Do Ducks Like Ice Water?, Why Is My Duck Throwing Up Water?, Does Duck Poop Kill Grass?, Duck Eggs Turning Black, How To Keep Ducks Quiet At Night