By far, my favorite homesteading venture has been the raising of hogs! No matter where you raise your homestead pigs, on pasture, in the woods, or in a clean pan, the quality of a homegrown hog versus a store-bought hog is unsurpassable. Until you eat real pork-lean, reddish-pink pork, you don’t realize how artificial conventional ham and bacon taste! But which pig breeds will get you the best ham & bacon?

One year, we purchased our pigs from two different sources. The reason for this was because by the time we found the first one, he had only one left for us at that time: Big Pig. (Here’s a tip- if you plan to raise your own hogs this year, NOW is the time to start shopping for a breeder. They go like hotcakes. We had a hard time finding them in the first two years.) After much searching, we found a source for our second hog. And what we got was a much smaller pig for DOUBLE the price, Little Pig.

Original, I know.

Her breeder told us that he was selectively breeding for leanness, and the difference was noticeable as the two girls grew up. The older one certainly had a jiggle to her when she ran, whereas the younger looked as though she was working out.

Choosing a Pig Breed: Meat-Type or Lard Type

The difference turned out to be more than visual. When it came time to eat, there was a very discernible difference between the flavor of Big Pig’s and Little Pig’s bacon. And let’s face it, the best reason to raise a hog is for the love of bacon!

Big Pig produced meaty bacon yet with an ample amount of fat to crisp and flavor the meat. My mouth is watering, just thinking about it! While Little Pig had virtually no fat and the results were a product that was chewy and tasted like ham. I would compare it to Canadian Bacon, only thinner.

The fat is where the flavor is!

What I’ve come to learn is that American pork production for commercial and show purposes is leaning increasingly towards lean to provide us with an alternative to chicken for our low-fat diets, since we don’t realize how vital saturated fats are to our health. And there are several different types of hogs out there.

So while shopping for your partners in Homestead Waste Management (feeder pigs) this year, it might be helpful to know which pig breed would suit your needs, so you’re not disappointed with your final results this winter.

Some questions you should ask yourself are:

• Do you not care about having lean cuts of meat?
• Do you prefer having more bacon over ham?
• Will you be using a lot of lard?
• Do you want juicier, more flavorful meat?

If you answered “yes” to any of those questions, you’re going to want to find yourself the lard-type of pig breeds!

Identifying Meat-Type vs. Lard-Type Pig Breeds

Most likely, the pig breeds you choose will be limited to one of the two types on the right of this chart. So let’s look at the difference between “Fat-Type” and “Meat-Type” hogs:

Meat Type on Left | Fat Type on Right

And while we’re on the subject, I found it to be interesting how the specific breeds have changed over the years.

Take a look at the difference between pig breeds from before and pig breeds now:

Duroc:

Hampshire:

Tamworth:

Berkshire:

I see the least difference in the Tamworth. If I were interested in raising heritage pork, I would definitely give Tamworth a try first. We know that Large Black Hogs and Gloucestershire Old Spots also produce a respectable amount of lard. The fattiest pig we’ve ever had was an LBH x GOS. By keeping good homesteading records we know that our yields on leaf lard off of those gals were more than ALL of the lard of any other pig breeds we’ve tried. Hands down, that was the best pork we’ve ever raised. So long as we are able to get that cross we will raise them from now on.

Of course, if you’re not a bacon person, it would stand to reason that fatty hogs wouldn’t be the best choice for your homestead. You’ll probably have an easier time finding your feeder pig source. Thankfully, for those of us who want the fat-type hog, the slow food movement is making them easier to find.

Which Pig Breeds Should You Choose for Your Homestead?

1. Wooly Mangalitsa

These pig breeds have an incredibly interesting history. They are the only pig breed on earth with wooly coats, making them one of a kind. Mangalitsa pigs are typically suggested for small farms or homesteads. Also, many farmers will tell you this pig breed is their favorite. So what is so great about them?

Well, for one thing, these pigs are delicious. They typically produce Kobe beef and other types of pork, and some argue they are the best-tasting pig. Their meat is tender, which is caused by their small bone structure. But just because they are smaller in the frame does not mean they don’t have some great fat on them!

This pig breed is one of the more fatty ones, which is great for bacon and flavor! So you will be getting the best of both worlds: amazing tasting meat, and excess fattiness (if that’s your thing). Though do keep in mind, owning this specific pig has to mean you have great use for fat because they have so much of it.

These pig breeds are low maintenance. So, they have even temperaments and do good outdoors at all times. Also, they are good at not eating you out of the house and home. They don’t rely on protein as their primary food source, and they eat about half the amount of other pigs, so they are great pigs to purchase in order to cut down on costs. Because of their fat and hair, they do good in the winter. Mangalitsas are very easy to maintain and they provide a profitable return, making them a wonderful pig for your homestead!

2. Red Wattle

The Red Wattle breed is exceptionally calm and even-tempered, as well as submissive and sensitive (easily startled). They are not known for aggression, and they are easy to raise. Red as a name fits this breed, as most are the color red, or red with black spots. This breed is larger in nature and bulky in weight. As they get bigger, their growth rate is fast. Their meat is delicious- tender, lean, and non-fatty. One of the best things about this pig breed is how well they mother, meaning means less work for you in helping to raise and care for their little ones! Wattles are sweet and kind in how they take care of their young, not to mention the bare huge litters multiple times of the year.

If you have a small homestead farm or are new to raising pigs, this type is a great place to start. One of the things that makes these pigs so nice to raise is how friendly they are. They enjoy being talked to and cared for, and you will grow very fond of them as you raise them. Wattles will help you to build up healthy soil and pastures by foraging. This also benefits you by keeping your feeding bill low! But even if you need to keep them enclosed in a yard or a pen, they do good in these confined spaces as well. Keep in mind that this is a giant pig. They regularly get up to 1,000 pounds, so be prepared to get a great return when they’re butchered!

3. KuneKune

KuneKune actually means “fat and round.” This breed is another sweet, even-tempered, and docile type. They are not small like our first suggestion or large like our section, but they hit that sweet spot right in the middle. KuneKune pigs will not uproot your plants (their noses don’t allow it), and they are good with fences. These are a few of the reasons why this pig breed is known for being the best for small farms. Some other reasons are the way they lack gross smells, how calm and quiet they are, and mainly, how well they do with children. KuneKune’s are the type of pigs who have everyone who meets them falling in love.

These pigs do great outside when it is not raining, but be sure to have a plan for when the rain does come! They tend to all sleep on top of each other in order to stay warm. Though they can be outside, it is best to have a barn for the rain and winter weather conditions. Remember, they don’t have fur! Keep in mind that we are talking about pure breed KuneKune’s. Once you begin to bring in the cross-bread types, behaviors may change. It is also important to remember to research what to feed them and how much. There are terrible consequences if you overfeed, underfeed, or don’t feed correctly.

4. Chester White

These pigs are on most homestead breed lists you will find. There are some great reasons for this. Firstly, they live very long lives. This fact is important if you are looking for pigs that can be raised for a long time and kept in top shape to produce the best meat. The main reason these pigs are so loved is because of their ability to mother. These Pennsylvanian natives are very kind, nurturing, and loving with their young. Chester Whites are bulky and muscular as well. They are all-around sturdy and well-mannered pigs, and you cannot go wrong with bringing them onto your homestead.

5. American Yorkshire Pig

American Yorkshire is a great pig breed to end this section of our article. This breed is the most commonly known one around, as well as the most popular in the US. So, they have the typical look of a pig that comes to mind when you think of pigs, and this is probably because their name truly fits them as America’s sweetheart. In addition, they have pretty pink skin and come along with tons of perks. Not to mention that, they are quick growers, come in big litters, and they are nice and bulky.

On top of all this, they are not expensive to feed, so you will get a good return on your investment. They are deeply loved for their meat, which is loaded with flavor, is lean, and has minimal amounts of fat. Not to mention, they are amazing moms for the same reasons as our last few pigs who win at parenting. This breed is indeed the perfect way to start your homesteading pig raising journey, and most of the nation would agree with that fact.

Final Toughts

Finally, it’s time to weigh in! Which do you prefer, ham or bacon? Also, which pig breed is your preference for meat production? Which breed best fits your needs? Tell us everything about your preferences in the comments section below.

Not to mention that all your further questions are more than expected in the same place. So, everything that you’d like to add or question regarding this article and all the pig breeds discussed, I wait in the comments section. Thank you a lot for reading and I hope that you’ll choose exactly what you need!

About Frogs

Bullfrogs and green frogs look similar but are easy to tell apart from other frogs in Missouri, due to their relatively large size at maturity. They prefer aquatic edge habitats that offer still, shallow water with aquatic and/or terrestrial vegetation. This provides both cover and food, such as insects and nearly any other small animal that will fit in their mouths. Ponds, lakes and river banks, wetlands, and other vegetated waterways are all great places to find frogs.

Frog Hunting

Methods

Frogs can be hunted in Missouri using many different methods.

With a fishing permit, frogs may be taken by gig, trotline, throw line, limb line, bank line, jug line, snagging, snaring, grabbing, or pole and line.

With a hunting permit, frogs may be taken by crossbow, pellet gun, or .22 or smaller caliber rim-fire rifle or pistol.

With either permit frogs may be taken by hand, hand net, bow, or atlatl.

When to Hunt Frogs

• Frogs may be pursued during the day or at night with an artificial light.
• During a full moon frogs are typically more skittish because they feel more exposed, and are thus more difficult to approach.
• During a new moon it is usually easier to get closer to them.

Because frogs are amphibious and must keep their skin moist, they spend more time in the water and weeds during the day and are generally less visible around the banks than at night. Whether they’re hiding or not, their location is often given away by their assertive croaks.

Getting Started

Frog-Hunting Gear

• Rubber knee boots or hip waders
• Flashlight
• Gig or net
• Something to keep your harvested frogs in

Choosing a Location

Public and private landowners typically do not manage for frogs. Instead, frog populations are often the result of management for another species such as waterfowl or fish. Frogs are also common in aquatic edge habitats not subject to management or maintenance of any kind.

Waters with few to no predators will yield the best frog populations, which is why newer ponds or very old ponds are generally plentiful with frogs. Bullfrogs and green frogs can be found along nearly all waterways on MDC conservation areas but especially on wetland areas and along rivers and lakes.

Bullfrogs are ambush-style predators that will eat any live prey they can fit in their mouths, including insects, fish, mice, birds, and snakes! Focus on shallow water areas and mud flats along the margins of ponds, lakes and wetlands where cattails, willows, grasses, and other aquatic vegetation is present.

Tips and Tricks

• If you are hunting with a partner, have them blind the frog using a light so that you can stalk the frog from behind. Frogs can feel the vibrations of you approaching on foot, sometimes causing them to flee before you locate them.
• Consider using a canoe to stealthily locate and get close enough to grab, net, or gig.

Try Hunting During the Day

Most frogs are caught with the use of a gig or by bare hands at night. For a little different experience, try fishing during the day. Simply use a long fishing pole, like a cane poll or crappie rod, with a short piece of fishing line and a small treble hook tied to the end. Attach a small piece of red cloth to the hook and dangle in front of the frog. Often temptation will get the best of the frog and it will strike at the cloth. The only thing left to do is set the hook.

If you know anything about yellow perch fishing, you probably know that they aren’t exactly “trophy fish”. They’re small, unassuming little fish, but they’re some of the most popular gamefish in North America for good reason.

Yellow perch are found across the northern United States, fight hard for their size, and will bite just about anything. That, combined with the fact that they school up by the hundreds, means that catching a cooler full of them isn’t out of reach. They’re a great fish for beginners or seasoned anglers, and you can catch them with minimal gear and tackle.

And you should try, because they’re arguably the best freshwater fish for the dinner table. They have a mild, almost sweet flavor, and a firm, flaky texture. They’re great for grilling and frying alike, and next time you go out on a food-fish mission, yellow perch should be at the top of the list.

In this article, I’ll go over the basics of how to catch these tasty fish. I’ll include things like required gear, the best baits and lures, and tips and tactics for filling the cooler.

Yellow perch (species name Perca flavescens) are a common carnivorous freshwater fish. They inhabit lakes, streams, and ponds, and live on a fairly varied diet. This can include zooplankton, insects, crayfish, and even freshwater mussels.

These days, yellow perch are very widespread. In most of the places they can be found, however, they’ve been introduced; their native range only includes the midwest and the northeastern United States. They’ve been so successful because they can tolerate a huge variety of water conditions and are prolific spawners.

Perch fall into the “panfish” category; basically, just fish that are just small enough to fit in a frying pan. Along with other panfish such as crappie and bluegill, perch make amazing table fare and are some of the most common fish for fish frys.

There are many panfish species, but perch are very easy to identify. This is mostly because there’s almost nothing else that looks like them in the lakes where they live.

As is always the case when fishing, it’s important to know your target.

Yellow perch are yellowish-gold in color with six to nine dark vertical bars on their body (earning them the nickname “striped perch,” though that name also refers to a saltwater species). They also have two dorsal fins, and their foremost dorsal fin has very tall spines relative to its body.

Perch are small fish (6-12 inches long) and weigh less than a pound. In most states, the record catch is between 2 and 3 pounds, so they do get bigger, but not by much.

The only fish that perch look similar to are walleye and sauger (which are in the same family), but walleye and sauger are generally much longer and have a more mottled color pattern compared to the yellow perch’s distinctive black bars.

Perch are great beginner fish because you don’t need much to catch them. That said, here’s the basic tackle you’ll need to get going.

Just about any rod can be used for perch fishing. But you’ll have better luck if you choose one with these qualities:

• 6 foot to 7 1/2 foot spinning rod (longer is better for longer casts, but not necessary)
• Light-Ultralight action (2-8 pound rating)
• Graphite composition (not necessary, but graphite is much more sensitive than fiberglass)

There are tons of great rods that fall into this category. If you’re looking at getting a new one, you can’t go wrong with the Ugly Stik GX2 (buy on Amazon here). It’s a tough rod with plenty of sensitivity at a great price.

Any 1000 series or 2000 series spinning reel will work well for perch. You’ll be using very light line, so going much larger than a 2000 series can impede casting ability. If you plan on deep jigging (like over 100 feet deep), then a 3000 series reel would be a safer bet for more line capacity.

For a quality spinning reel at a great price, it’s hard to beat the Okuma Ceymar or Pfleuger President. Both are around 50 bucks on Amazon, and they’re super smooth and durable for the price.

4-6 pound test monofilament line is all you need for perch. They aren’t particularly line-shy, though, so if you happen to have heavier line already spooled up it should work just fine.

Perch can be caught with a variety of different rigs, so you don’t need everything at one time. That said, it is nice to have a variety of options on hand to switch up your presentation if the fish aren’t biting.

For hooks, a size 4-8 baitholder hook works well. Perch have big mouths for their size, and larger hooks are generally less likely to be swallowed, so I lean on the larger side.

Perch fishing with jigs can also be very productive. 1/32 oz, 1/16 oz, and 1/8 oz round jigheads can all work, but I usually use 1/16 oz. As for colors, perch aren’t picky. I regularly use pink or chartreuse, but unpainted jigheads often work just as well. It’s not a bad idea to have a few color options so you can change up for water conditions.

If using sinkers (such as with a bobber), split-shot is all you need. Just use a large enough weight to keep your bait down and you’ll be good to go. A good variety pack will have a few different sizes so you can adjust as necessary.

Getting a perch to bite is pretty easy. But the key to catching perch is finding them; if you aren’t right where the fish are, you aren’t going to catch any.

Perch can live in a huge variety of water conditions and inhabit lakes, ponds, and streams. That said, they are most commonly found in large, relatively clear lakes with sandy or gravel bottoms. They prefer cool water, too, with 60-70 degree summer temperatures being ideal.

Yellow perch are a schooling species, and usually school up with fish of similar size. When you find a school, the bite will often be red-hot. They can be caught year-round, but where you’ll find perch depends on the time of year, so it’s important to understand their seasonal behavior.

Because of their schooling behavior and relatively easy bite, perch are hugely popular among ice anglers. During the winter, they can be just about anywhere, but large fish and large schools of perch usually prefer deeper water.

Concentrate on areas with any kind of structure. That could be downed trees, rip-rap rocky bottoms, or even just a drop-off where water depth changes quickly (like at my best local spot). Perch feed just off the bottom, so that’s where your bait or lure should be as well. If you have ice electronics, that’s great; if not, keep moving until you find them (a powered gas or electric auger helps a lot here).

Springtime is spawning time for perch. Starting when the water hits about 45 degrees, they’ll move out of their deep wintertime haunts into shallow water. They love shallow marshes, sloughs, and bays, so if you have these in your area, try them first. If not, fish the shallowest areas you can find; perch regularly spawn in 3-5 feet of water.

When fishing the shallows, concentrate on structure. This can be downed trees, docks, or even rocky outcrops, but the best spring perch habitat is weed beds. Fish the top of short grass or the edges of taller weeds like bulrushes and cattails, and you’ll probably find perch.

Throughout spring and into summer, perch move into deeper water as the water temperature increases. You’ll continue to find them in fairly shallow water (5-10 feet deep) up until the water hits about 70 degrees, but beyond that, they can be anywhere.

Perch fishing in the summer is therefore much easier if you have a fish finder. You should be able to locate schools, and once you do it’s a matter of getting your bait in front of them. Keep your boat directly above the school (using a drift sock or anchor as necessary), and drop down to their depth and jig vertically.

Schools are constantly on the move, so any deeper part of the lake can hold fish on a given day. When it comes to perch, keep moving until you find them, then stay on them from there.

Perch fishing is great because you can often use whatever rig is the most fun for you. You can catch them on a huge variety of lures, including crankbaits (like Rapala’s), spinners and spoons, and jigheads with soft plastic lures. They’re all very simple to rig; just tie on whatever lure or bait you’re using and you’re good to go.

All that said, the most reliable way to catch perch is with live bait.

Perch will eat just about anything, but some of the best baits for perch include:

• worms/nightcrawlers
• maggots (for ice fishing especially)
• Perch eyeballs

You can also use artificial baits, like:

• Berkley Honeyworms
• Berkley Gulp Minnows

Any of these will work as perch bait. In areas where allowed (check your local fishing regulations first), many anglers swear by perch eyeballs. Once you start catching them, you should have an abundant supply, so it’s worth trying out to see if it works for you.

When fishing the tops of weed beds, a simple bobber rig works best. Tie a #4 baitholder hook and suspend below a bobber so your bait is just above the weed line. Use a split shot 6-12 inches from the hook, and use just enough weight to keep your bait down, because the more action the bait has in the water, the better. Then rig the hook with a worm or your preferred bait, and cast out so your bait is above the weeds. Try different spots and leader lengths as necessary.

You can also fish weed beds very effectively with a drop shot rig (more on that rig here). It’ll keep your lure just above the top of the weed beds, but you can give it as much jigging action as you want to.

If you’re fishing deep water, use jigheads to get to the bottom. Use whatever size jighead is necessary to ensure your rig stays directly below you, and tip it with a worm or other bait. Then slowly jig vertically until you catch fish.

Alternatively (if you don’t have a fish finder), you can cast your jigheads as far as you can and then slowly bounce them along the bottom back towards you. Doing this in a circle around the boat can help you find the fish faster.

When it comes perch fishing with lures, you can use just about anything. But what you choose does depend on where you’re fishing. Some of my favorite perch lures are:

• Rapala Shad Rap Crankbait
• Rooster Tail Spinner
• Miniature Spoons
• Rapala Jigging Rap
• Eagle Claw Marabou Jig

When fishing the shallows, small crankbaits or spinners work well. Cast and retrieve these over the tops of weed beds or along weed lines for the best fishing. You can also cast near docks or other large structure, but be careful not to get too close and snag up.

It’s important to note that perch are considered poor swimmers and accelerate very slowly compared to other fish. When retrieving your lures, keep this in mind and stick to slower speeds for the best results.

When fishing deep water, vertically jigging small soft plastics on jigheads, jigging spoons, or other jigging lures is the way to go. One lure loved by perch anglers is the Rapala Jigging Rap, which looks like a fish and moves erratically as it rises or falls. You pretty much can’t go wrong with this lure as long as you jig it vertically, but any jigging spoon or small soft plastic can work just as well.

All of the above will help you catch more perch, but keep these tips in mind for greater success and a freezer full of fish.

Perch will take anything, but using live bait always increases your chances of success. Even if you’re fishing a lure, tipping it with a maggot or a piece of worm helps immensely. That little bit of scent will make your whole presentation that much more enticing, and the perch won’t be able to resist it.

When jigging vertically, your goal is to be in the “perch zone”. The members of a school don’t all swim at exactly the same depth, though, so adding two or even three hooks further up your line means you’ll be in front of more fish at any given time.

Always make sure using multiple hooks is allowed in your area, but where allowed this tactic can be killer, and even result in catching two or more fish on a single drop.

Perch are notorious bait thieves. They don’t usually take and swallow like bass or trout; often they just nibble at the very tip. This leads to stolen baits, and a hook without bait just doesn’t catch fish.

Checking your baits often (and only using enough bait to cover the hook) ensures that you’re actively fishing as much as possible.

You can catch perch all day, but like many fish, they’re most active at dawn and dusk. Make sure that you’re on the water at these times for the hottest fishing and the best chance of success.

Overall, yellow perch are a fun and easy fish to catch. They’re great for kids because they fight hard for their size, and they’re amazing fried up for the dinner table. You just need to know where they like to be, put some bait in front of them, and you’re good to go. By using the tips in this article you should be well on your way to catching a mess of them, and hopefully having some fish tacos for dinner!

Suppose you wandered into the forest and found a pile of poop lying around. It looks round, oval-shaped, and has a concave end. Is it elk poop? Or is it from a Moose?

Well, between Elk Vs. Moose, Elk poop is a little smaller, whereas the moose poop is about 1 inch long and 5/8 inch in diameter. However, large elk may leave the same length and diameter as a moose poop. The only way to determine moose poop and elk poop are by the color, shape and attachment of the poop.

Moose poops are taper on one side and have a slight dish shape on one side.

Elk poop is similar to deer poop, with the same almond shape and green or brown hue. It is also a bit darker.

Still confused? Go through our comparison chart to know more.

Elk poop Vs. Moose poop: Comparison chart

Elk poop: How does it look?

Elk poop looks somewhat similar to a regular deer poop with oval-shaped piles. Depending on the season and area, the poop may look different.

In the winter, elk poop looks like pellets and oval-shaped piles.

Whereas, In spring, the poop may look softer due to the presence of vegetation.

The diameter of the poop may vary from 0.4-0.7 inches. On the other hand, female elks have a smaller poop size. It is kinda hard, has a medium to dark brown color, and has a low amount of cellulose.

Fresh elk poop tends to be more moist and will harden with time. They will also turn black with time.

Related: What Does Squirrel Poop Look Like?

Moose poop: How does it look?

Similar to Elk poop, moose poop depends on the season. It ranges from 1-1.5 inches in length and 0.5-0.8 inches in diameter.

In the spring, moose poop resembles dumbbell-shaped or kinda like mushrooms. However, in the winter, they take oval ball shape and contain high amounts of cellulose.

You will find moose poop in piles, which is a little moist. When you drag your boot on fresh moose poop, the moisture content makes it leave a drag mark.

Having a light brown color, moose poop looks somewhat similar to cow dung. With time, the poop takes a light brown color and hardens up.

Elk poop Vs. Moose poop: Head to head

Elk poop and Moose poop look a lot different than what you think. Except for the similar shape, almost nothing matches with each other. Here is why:

Regular shape and size

Both elk poop and moose poop have an oval shape. However, Elk poop is a little smaller in shape. Moose poop stands at a length of 1-1.5 inches, and elk poop is about 0.8 to 0.9 inches. The diameter of both the poops is similar, whereas moose poop is a few centimeters smaller.

In winters

During the cold winter, the amount of vegetation is low. In this time, Moose poop is oval nugget shaped and is often found in piles. On the other hand, elk poop forms pellets and is also oval-shaped.

In Spring

At this time of the year, both moose have a lot of food growing around. Moose poop takes a mushroom-like shape or kinda like dumbbells. In comparison, elk ones turn softer and lighter.

Color and hue

The color of fresh moose poop is light brown. Elk poop is medium to dark brown. Old moose poop may turn dark. However, elk poop will always turn black.

Moisture and cellulose content

The moisture content of moose poop is more than elk poop. If you press on it, the poop will turn flat at the slightest touch. It also contains more cellulose and plant fiber.

How do you tell the difference between moose and elk poop?

To tell the difference between moose and elk poop, you need to see the color, shape, moisture level, and hardness. Tips For Elk Hunting Beginners: Elk poop looks darker, and the moose one is a light brown from the starter period. Then again, moose poop is softer and is moister.

Drag your boot on the fresh poop, and if it leaves a drag mark, then the poop is of moose. In the case of old, dried-up poop, the elk poop is black, and the moose poop is light brown.

FAQs

How many times do moose poop a day?

Mooses typically poop from three to four times per day. However, this amount depends on the age and weight of the moose. A newborn moose will poop much more frequently than a grownup one.

Can moose poop look like bear poop?

Moose poop can look like bear poop in the spring. Bears and mooses have totally different food habits. This is why their poop isn’t exactly the same. However, they do share a resemblance in spring, when the poop of moose turns dumbbell-shaped. In Winters, moose poop will turn into dry oval nuggets and is found in piles. So, don’t just call the forest department, thinking it’s a bear. The poop can also be of moose.

How do I know if my poop is moose?

To know if your found moose poop is with the color, shape, and weight. Moose moose has a lighter brown color, and the shape is oval. Its length is about 1-1.5 inches, and its diameter is 0.5-0.8 inches. Then again, don’t forget to check the moisture content. The poop is easy to squish if it is fresh. Old poop will turn dark brown with time and will harden up.

Why is moose poop in pellets?

Moose poop in pellets due to the food they eat. Mooses can’t reach the ground grass due to their big body. So, they feed on barks, leaves, twigs, and so on. Newborn mooses don’t have this problem, so they usually don’t poop into pellets. Mooses are also ruminants, which makes their poop uniform and pellet-like. In winter, their pool will appear dry oval nuggets and is found in piles.

What does a pile of moose poop look like?

A pile will look different depending on the season. If the season is winter, the pool will take an oval shape and will be stacked in piles. Then again, during spring, the poop will take a mushroom shape or look like dumbbells. Female moose have smaller poop sizes when compared to male ones. The pool length and diameter is about 1-1.5 inch and 0.5-0.8 inches, respectively.

End note

Hope you got the idea of how elk poop and moose poop looks. Moses are a bigger relative of deer, so they pool in bigger chunks. On the other hand, Elks aren’t as big, so they poop in smaller pellets, ranging from 0.8 to 0.9 inches.

Elk poop is less moist and has a dark brown hue. If you leave Elk poop side by side, the moose poop will look bigger and has a sticky outer layer. You can squash moose poop with the slightest press of the boot.

Then again, when moose poop turns older, it becomes hard and dark brown. However, elk poop will turn black.

This is all for today. Bye, and have a good day.

Scopes and sights will instantly improve your performance on the range or while hunting small game.

In low light conditions, it is not easy to acquire your target with stock iron sights.

A scope or sight will provide you a visible reticle in all lighting conditions that not only allows you to engage your target quickly but also increases your accuracy.

Note: You need to be at least 18 years of age to purchase any of the below air rifles, as well as adhere to the local laws governing their usage.

What to Consider When Buying an Air Rifle/Pistol Scope

Scopes and sights are performance enhancing accessories that are a must for long distance shooting.

To ensure you get the right accessory, you need to know the different sights, how much magnification you need, and the scope’s durability.

Type of Sight

You can mount red dot, reflex, and scopes to many air weapons if you have the required mounting hardware.

Even if your air pistol or rifle does not include the mounting platform you need, you can purchase adapters in most cases.

If you need an adapter, check out this site: www.AirgunDepot.com

Magnification

Reflex and red dot sights have 1x magnification which is perfect for short to medium distance shooting.

Scopes can offer 16x magnification, which is perfect for medium to long distance shooting.

Durability

While you are at the range or hunting small game, the weather may take a change for the worse.

When this happens, you will want your gear to be waterproof, shockproof, and durable.

Below are the 14 best air rifle and pistol scopes.

#1. UTG Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 21.1 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $124.99

The UTG Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO was created with airgunners in mind to provide you a crystal clear image of your target with its emerald-coated optics.

The scope is excellent for precision shooting at various ranges with 3x to 9x magnification.

An excellent feature of the UTG Hunter is that the .25 MOA reticle’s color can change to ensure that you do not lose your target.

It comes with 36 reticle colors to choose from for a customized targeting experience.

The bright mil-dot reticle is perfect for all lighting conditions, including cloudy days.

It can withstand the elements with its durable design that is fog proof, shockproof, and rainproof.

With everything included to attach it to your weapon, the UTG Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO is perfect for any long distance shooter.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#2. UTG SWAT IR 3-12×44 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 12x
• Weight: 23.2 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $154.99

The UTG SWAT IR 3-12×44 AO provides shooters with up to 12x magnification making it one of the best long range air rifles scopes available.

Much like the Hunter IR 3-9×40, it includes an adjustable 36 color mil-dot reticle for better target acquisition in various settings.

To give you the best zero, it comes with .25″ windage and elevation adjustments and 10 yards to infinity parallax modifications.

With an emerald coating on the lens, you will have superior visibility for target practice or small game hunting.

It includes everything you need to attach to your air rifle to include Weaver/Picatinny rings and 2 hex wrenches.

It is a bargain at $154.99 and will assist you with providing tight shot groups.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#3. UTG CQB BugBuster IR 3-9×32 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 13.9 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $117.99

The UTG CQB BugBuster IR 3-9×32 AO will provide you with a sharp picture that pops.

UTG secured the top three spots on this list for their value, function, and durability.

The BugBuster is like the Hunter IR 3-9×40 AO but with a few key differences.

It is more lightweight without sacrificing durability and is designed for close quarters combat.

The scope has parallax adjustments starting at 3 yards instead of 5 for a closer zero.

A downside is that the BugBuster does not have a 36-color adjustable reticle and instead has either a red or a green reticle option.

This is not a game changer for most people, but it may be worth spending the extra $7 if that is important to you.

Like the other UTG scopes already mentioned, it has an outstanding limited lifetime warranty.

It is also shockproof, fog proof, and rainproof.

You can not go wrong with this or the other UTG scopes on this list.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#4. CenterPoint Optics 32mm Open Reflex Sight

• Reticle: 1 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 5.5 oz.
• Water Resistant: Not Specified
• Price: $39.99

The CenterPoint Optics 32mm Open Reflex Sight is perfect for any close range shooting with its 1x magnification and 1 MOA reticle.

With unlimited eye relief, you will get pinpoint accuracy no matter how far your head is from the reflex sight.

You have the option of 4 different reticles that are available in either green or red.

It comes with an integrated weaver mount making it perfect for air pistols or rifles.

Weighing in at only 5.5 oz. it is super lightweight and compact at only 3.25″ long.

CenterPoint backs their sight with a limited lifetime warranty.

The CenterPoint Optics 32mm Open Reflex Sight is perfect for speed drills and quick target acquisition.

If you are looking for a solid performer at a great price, this may be the sight for you.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#5. BSA 30mm Red Dot Sight

• Reticle: 5 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 5 oz.
• Water Resistant: Not Specified
• Price: $33.59

The BSA 30mm Red Dot Sight is a high-performance red dot sight at an excellent price.

Built with a Picatinny/Weaver base, it can quickly attach to your favorite air rifle or pistol.

The 30mm tube provides you an extensive field of view, and the 5 MOA reticle makes it easy to acquire your target.

You can stay on the move with unlimited eye relief while taking down targets since you do not need to worry about your head placement.

To provide precise shots every time, the sight comes with .5″ windage and elevation adjustments.

If you want a red dot sight for close quarters shooting, the BSA 30mm Red Dot Sight is an excellent option at a great price.

It’s definitely the best air rifle scope for the money, all things considered.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#6. Mantis 3-9×32 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 16 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $71.99

The Mantis 3-9×32 AO is a heavy-duty scope that is constructed out of high-grade aluminum.

The aluminum body also makes it super lightweight coming in at only 1 lb.

With durability in mind, the Mantis is fog proof, waterproof, shockproof, and it comes with a limited 1-year warranty.

It has a .25″ mil-dot reticle that provides a solid point of aim.

You can magnify your target up to 9x for precise shooting.

It also has a parallax adjustment of 5 yards to infinity to provide a clear picture no matter how far your target is from you.

The durable design, powerful magnification, and visibility make the Mantis 3-9×32 AO an excellent choice.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#7. Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 4x – 12x
• Weight: 21.2 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $209.99

The Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO is the second most expensive scope on this list but do not let the price tag scare you because it is packed full of features.

It is a great all-around scope with a magnification of up to 12x, making it perfect for long-distance shooting.

To take full advantage of the range of this scope, you will need a high-FPS air rifle or pistol.

It includes a 1″ mono-tube chassis that is 13.7″ long and weighs only 21.2 oz.

The .25″ MOA red or green reticle can easily sight in on your target with 10 yards to infinity parallax adjustment.

The reticle has 5 green and 5 red illumination settings for clear visibility in low light settings.

It is designed to last and is shockproof, fog proof, and waterproof.

The Hawke Vantage IR 4-12×50 AO is perfect for those who want a long-range scope with a 50mm objective lens.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#8. UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight

• Reticle: .5 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 13.1 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $79.99

The UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight has a .5 MOA green or red T-Dot reticle, providing faster target acquisition.

It has flexible eye relief and has a wide 85′ field of view with a 39mm objective lens.

With a 42mm center height, it has co-witnessing for rear and front sights.

It is quick and easy to attach and detach the UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight to your air rifle or pistol with the patented quick-detach lever lock.

The scope also includes an integrated sunshade, which prevents glare and optimizes the amount of light that enters the sight.

It is barely noticeable on your weapon with a weight of under a pound, making it comfortable for all-day shooting.

You get a 2-year limited warranty and the quality that you expect from UTG.

If you are looking for a solid dot sight for your air pistol or rifle, the UTG 1×39 CQB Target Dot Sight is a top pick.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#9. CenterPoint TAG Series IR 4-16×40 AO

• Reticle: Not Specified
• Magnification: 4x – 16x
• Weight: 17.44 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $99.99

The CenterPoint TAG Series IR 4-16×40 AO provides some serious magnification of up to 16x, making it perfect for long distance shooting.

With a 40mm objective lens, you can get clear visibility of your target at extreme distances.

The reticle has a TAG style that can alternate between red and green.

It has a 10 yds to infinity AO parallax setting to provide a sharp image no matter how far your target is.

You get a 6.3′ to 25′ field of view at 100 yards for better situational awareness.

It includes a limited lifetime warranty and a CR2032 to power the scope.

If you are looking for a 16x scope on a budget, the CenterPoint TAG Series IR 4-16×40 AO is your best option.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#10. UTG Hunter IR 4-16×40 AO

• Reticle: .25 MOA
• Magnification: 4x – 16x
• Weight: 22.3 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $142.99

Think of the UTG Hunter IR 4-16×40 AO as the older brother to the Hunter IR 3-9×40.

It has all the same outstanding features, but it has a magnification up to 16x, making it a solid choice for long distance shooting.

It has a 36-color illumination-enhanced .25″ mil-dot reticle making it perfect for any lighting conditions.

It is 14.57″ long and weighs only 22.3 oz.

The scope comes with everything you need including a flip-open lens caps, 1 CR2032 battery, 2 hex wrenches, and high Weaver/Picatinny rings.

With the included limited lifetime warranty, this scope’s value can not be beaten.

If you are on a tight budget, go with the CenterPoint, but go with UTG Hunter if you have a large budget.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#11. Hatsan 1×30 Red Dot Sight

• Reticle: .5 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: Not Specified
• Water Resistant: Not Specified
• Price: $29.99

Hatsan’s 1×30 Red Dot Sight is the lowest priced sight/scope on this list, but that does not mean they cheaply made it.

It has the standard 1x magnification found on most red dot sights and has a 30mm objective lens for an excellent field of view.

With unlimited eye relief, you can quickly acquire and engage your target.

It mounts to a dovetail platform and has a quick-detach standard dovetail base.

If you want a budget red dot sight that will give you quick, precise shooting in low light environments, look no further than Hatsan’s 1×30 Red Dot Sight.

It also includes a limited 1-year warranty.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#12. Hawke 30 SF Compact IR 4-16×44 Airmax, Ill. AMX

• Reticle: AMX Reticle
• Magnification: 4x – 16x
• Weight: 21.9 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $389.99

At $389.99, the Hawke 30 SF Compact IR 4-16×44 Airmax, Ill. AMX is the most expensive scope on this list.

This premium scope has excellent features that set it apart from the other scopes on this list and would be the top pick if it was not for the price point.

It has a glass-etched red-illuminated AMX reticle, and the lens has 16 coated layers for better clarity.

The reticle has 6 levels of brightness for superior low light targeting.

This scope has a wide-angle lens for better downrange situational awareness.

The scope can take on the elements since it is waterproof, shockproof, and nitrogen purged.

With a side focus parallax correction, you will have excellent visibility from 10 yards to infinity.

While it’s a bit expensive, it’s easily considered as one of the best air rifle scopes available for sale right now.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#13. Hatsan Optima 3-9×40 AO

• Reticle: Not Specified
• Magnification: 3x – 9x
• Weight: 19 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $79.99

Hatsan’s Optima 3-9×40 AO provides solid performance with a magnification up to 9x, giving you precise aim.

With the parallax being adjustable, you will have crystal clear visibility from 10 yards to infinity.

The scope includes a mil-dot reticle and has a 40mm objective lens, and is easily considered one of the best air rifle scopes on the market.

Not only is the scope waterproof, but it is also shockproof, fog proof, nitrogen-filled, and has a fully coated optical lens.

This competitively priced 9x air rifle scope also includes a 1-year warranty.

Hatsan’s Optima 3-9×40 AO may be right for you if you want a balance of function and value.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

#14. Hawke Micro Reflex Dot 3 MOA

• Reticle: 3 MOA
• Magnification: 1x
• Weight: 2.5 oz.
• Water Resistant: Yes
• Price: $129.99

Hawke constructed the Micro Reflex out of aluminum for added durability.

The aluminum is lightweight, and the sight only weighs 2.5 oz.

For additional clarity and protection, the lens is fully multi-coated with 25 layers of protection.

The 3 MOA reticle provides quick target acquisition with unlimited eye relief.

The reflex sight comes with an 8-stage digital brightness control for precise shooting in low light environments.

A unique feature of this sight is that if movement is not detected for 5 minutes, the sight will automatically turn off to save battery life.

Hawke designed it with an integrated weaver mount for easy installation on your favorite air pistol or rifle.

It also has a 2-year limited warranty.

It is available at Airgun Depot. Here’s where to buy it: www.AirgunDepot.com

See Also

14 Best Red Dot Sights for Pistols, ARs, and Shotguns

12 Best Reflex Sights

10 Best Military Grade Binoculars

References / Resources

Air Gun Laws in the US

Affiliate Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I have personally vetted. Learn more.

Backpack sprayers are absolute cheat codes in the lawn care game. Long gone are the days of walking around cranking the pump lever all over your yard. Or even worse, the little sprayers that you carry and set down and repeatedly pump then get maybe 1-2 seconds of spray.

The new backpack sprayers keep a consistent amount of pressure inside and make your life way easier. I think the first time I used a backpack sprayer I was caught off guard with how quickly I was able to complete the job.

Battery powered backpack sprayers are the tool of the future, available now.

They aren’t all made the same and have some unique features and benefits.

So let’s break them down.

1. Ryobi 40V Cordless Backpack Sprayer
2. Ryobi ONE+ Cordless Backpack Sprayer
3. Milwaukee M18 FUEL Backpack Sprayer (4 Gallon)
4. Spraymate Lil Squirt Sprayer
5. Dewalt Battery Powered Chemical Sprayer

Why we review lawn tools

The reason we started this website in the first place was because we had so much trouble trying to find reasonable, understandable, honest reviews for lawn equipment. And it’s not cheap! After hours and hours of research, trying products and returning them, and messing up our yards – we started this site.

As people who had to learn the hard way, we want you to know exactly what you are signing up for before you purchase a piece of equipment. That’s why we are committed to providing honest, easy-to-understand reviews that mean something.

What to look for in a battery powered backpack sprayer

Again, these aren’t all made the same. With one of these backpack sprayers, you want to make sure to have the below features.

• Comfort
  • It sounds silly, but if you are going to be personally hauling a bunch of chemicals on your back, you’ve got to make sure it is comfortable. Honestly, with how easy these things are to use, the main differentiator is what the experience feels like. Look for padded shoulder straps and an otherwise lightweight tool.
• Battery run-time
  • There’s not really a point to a battery-powered sprayer if the battery dies and you can’t finish the job. Regardless of how long your job takes, you want to make sure to get one with a decent battery life. That helps you if you take the battery off and use it on another tool.
• A see-through tank
  • This one sounds even sillier, but some of these battery-powered backpack sprayers have dark tanks. You can’t see how much fluid is in it. Not a huge deal but also a minor inconvenience that is so easy to avoid. Grab one where you can see the fluid.

Those are the main things I look for. Of course there are other important things like different nozzles and a strainer to make sure you don’t get a clogged line, but those should come standard.

5 Best Battery-Powered Backpack Sprayers: Ranked

Okay! Finally after careful consideration we have put this list together. We’ve gotten our hands on a few of these but also tried to get some more variety in new products. So let’s get to the bottom of it once and for all.

5. Dewalt Battery Powered Backpack Sprayer

The Dewalt Lithium-Ion Battery-Powered Backpack Sprayer is sure to be a rugged, long-lasting tool. Not only does it come with Dewalt’s trusted brand reputation, but it’s a part of their 20V battery series.

Dewalt’s 20V Battery series is compatible with TONS of Dewalt tools.

What I love about the Dewalt Battery-Powered Backpack Sprayer

• Part of the 20V battery series
• Padded straps with two wrap-around straps
• 10 different flow settings
• Several nozzles for different spray patterns

What I don’t love about the Dewalt backpack sprayer

This breaks rule number one! It doesn’t have a see-through tank. So you have NO idea how much fluid is left in there outside of the weight differential.

The other thing I don’t love about this backpack sprayer is the price! It comes in at a steep $300 and can be purchased online from Home Depot.

4. Spraymate Lil Squirt Portable Backpack Sprayer

Candidly, we have not used this little guy but thought it was so cool that it needed to make this list.

It isn’t really a backpack sprayer, but more like a satchel sprayer. It comes with a nice little strap that you can hang over your shoulder and waltz around your lawn to get the job done.

At just about $100, this thing is the most cost-effective way to get the job done with a battery powered sprayer.

So where is the battery?

Great question. Looking at this, you would have no idea. But it is actually built into the handle of the Lil Squirt sprayer. It plugs into the wall and has a nice little charger that you plug in directly. It makes the product super intuitive and easy to use without having to pull out a separate battery.

Otherwise, this sprayer has a nice six foot hose, a quick-connect extension wand, and is super lightweight.

If you are a more casual backpack sprayer user, then this is a really good cost-effective alternative to the others here.

You can grab this one at Home Depot or get its big brother, a fully built out backpack sprayer with four gallons on Amazon.

3. Milwaukee M18 4 Gallon Backpack Sprayer

Milwaukee rocks. In fact, we’ve gotten our hands on a few of their pieces of lawn equipment. Like their new blowers and even their M18 lawn mower.

They simply don’t miss.

So when I saw their backpack sprayer I knew it would make the top five.

What we love about the Milwaukee M18 Backpack Sprayer

• The M18 battery line is incredible and can service TONS of tools
• It can absolutely LAUNCH spray – like over 20 feet away if you desire
• The shoulder straps are supremely comfortable
• The battery placement is well-designed

What we didn’t love

• We didn’t have this problem, but from others have heard that the tank can leak
• It’s a bit pricey.

All in all this is a great backpack sprayer and perfect for those of us that already own M18 batteries, this thing is sweet. If you already own the batteries you can save a ton of money by purchasing the tool-only version on Amazon or getting it off of Home Depot, wherever you prefer.

2. Ryobi ONE+ 18V Cordless Backpack Sprayer

The Ryobi ONE+ 18V Cordless backpack sprayer is pretty slick. We loved using it and even filmed a long YouTube video that highlights all the different features and benefits.

It is a huge timesaver, just like the other battery-powered backpack sprayers, but is also really reliable. Ryobi products are super common as well, so chances are you already have one of their ONE+ 18V batteries to pop right onto this backpack sprayer.

What we love about the Ryobi 18V backpack sprayer

• Super easy, ergonomically designed trigger that fits your whole hand
• Battery interchangeability with all the other Ryobi 18V tools
• You can use the tank 11 times on the same charge
• Incredibly comfortable – way better than my Jansport backpack
• Easy to use pressure control valve on the side
• See-through 4 gallon tank so you know when you’re getting low

Frankly, there wasn’t much to dislike about this backpack sprayer. It comes in at a great price WITH battery and charger on Amazon or at Home Depot for a great price.

1. RYOBI 40V Cordless Backpack Sprayer

Okay guys, we have a confession. This one is basically IDENTICAL to the 18V ONE+ battery backpack sprayer above. And we like it for all the same reasons.

But the 40V series from Ryobi is just much more popular than the 18V series. If you already own a Ryobi tool, you can get this thing for an insane price from a number of places. We found the best price for the tool-only version on Home Depot’s site and it’s even cheaper than the 18V series.

After five long tiring days of hunting, a 200-plus pound mountain lion fell from a tree, possibly putting Mitchell resident Jeff Jarman in the record books.

Four years ago, Jarman, an Aberdeen native, went to a convention in Reno, Nev., called Safari Club International and met long-time mountain lion hunting expert, Marc Hubbard.

Although there was a four-year wait to hunt with Hubbard in his hometown of Penticton, British Colombia, Jarman wanted to cross a big-cat hunt off of his bucket list. So they made the appointment.

Jarman, who works at American Garage Door, hunted at Hubbard’s business, Okanagan Outfitters, a guide service that has led easily over 400 hunts to mountain lions in Canada, including four of the top 10 in the world. Little did Jarman know, Hubbard’s son, Russ, would lead him to the fourth-largest mountain lion in the world.

“The second I pulled the trigger, he was coming down out of that tree,” Jarman said. “Usually around here when you shoot a buck, and as you get closer to it, it has ground shrinkage. As we kept getting closer to the cat and looking him over he just was bigger and bigger. I couldn’t get my hand around his tail.”

When Jarman was traveling to the Hubbard’s outfitters club in Canada earlier this month, he thought he was headed to the boondocks. Instead, when he arrived, he saw beautiful mountain ranges surrounding a huge lake with wineries along the shore. Penticton sits on the south side of Lake Okanagan, which is over 80 miles long and three miles wide.

The hunt was scheduled for seven days, and Jarman and Russ looked for lynx and mountain lion tracks while riding snowmobiles on trails in the dense, tree-filled, snowy mountains.

Russ guided the hunt for Jarman. Russ, 23, said he shot his first cat at the age of 12 and has been guiding people under his dad’s business alone since he was 18. Russ had guided at least 100 people cat hunting, he said.

After the fourth day of snow fall and not finding many promising tracks, Jarman admitted he was getting a little nervous. He and Russ were working from sun up to sun down, not wasting a minute of daylight, looking for a cat. His $500 license for an international mountain lion was running dry.

The next morning the fun started. Russ spotted some tracks at about 9:30 a.m. on a blue-bird sunny day, giving Jarman the decision to go after the cat.

“(Russ) explained that before the hunt, he said ‘even though I tell you the track is average size, it could be a small cat or a big cat or even a female,’ ” Jarman said. “He had a hard time telling exactly the size.”

Russ explained the fresh snow gave him some trouble indentifying the size of the tracks, confusing him on the size of the cat.

But Russ told Jarman he thought the cat had probably been through that area the previous night, could be an average-size male and had “good stride” on it.

Three English Red Tick dogs were released after Jarman made the decision to go after the cat.

“That’s when the fun started, when the dogs went crazy and started howling,” Jarman said. “Once you release the dogs, it’s a full-day deal.”

Russ described the dogs as like a German-shorthaired pointer, while Jarman said they were like bloodhounds.

Each dog had its own separate GPS unit on its collar, allowing Russ to track the dogs while they tracked the cat. Then, while the dogs were out, Russ and Jarman drove around to the opposite side of the mountain, near where the dogs had posted. At about 2 p.m., and over 10 miles from the original track sighting, they got within roughly 1,000 yards of the dogs, and they hiked on foot the rest of the way.

But as Jarman and Russ were about 100 yards from the dogs, they quit barking. The guide didn’t like his ears.

Russ explained then that sometimes the cats will jump from tree to tree, and the dogs will lose track of them, but that time, the dogs did a great job finding the cat.

As they reached ground zero, where they found the most tracks, they spent about 20 to 30 minutes with their heads raised to the sky, looking for a treed mountain lion.

“After searching for that thing I about had enough, but he called me up to where he was with his dog, and calm as day he said, ‘the cat’s right above us,’ ” Jarman said.

Russ pointed to a 100-foot spruce-like tree, which was canopied above him and Jarman.

“The dogs came back toward me, and I was joking with the lead dog, like ‘find the cat,’ and then he was barking at the tree, and I saw a little twitch of the black trail,” Russ said. “Then I spotted it.”

With his heart pumping and after the dogs were tied up, Jarman positioned himself, looked through the scope of his .270 caliber and thought, “that’s a little guy.”

Quite an interesting thought from a man who was about to the pull the trigger on a 200-plus pound mountain lion, but Hubbard assured him it was a good animal.

“I could tell from his body and head alone he was huge,” Russ said. “I told Jeff to set up against a leaned-down tree. Then, one shot dropped the cat. That cat didn’t move an inch.”

Added Jarman: “I hit the cat square-on in the chest, probably about 50-70 feet up in the tree. There was no hesitation. He just fell from the tree immediately.”

That’s when Jarman saw exactly how big it was.

The mountain lion had about a three-foot long tail and was roughly 10-feet long from nose tip to tail tip. Each razor sharp claw was at least three inches of shredding power and Russ said, by looking at teeth length, the cat was 8 to 10 years old.

“He was much more excited about the size of the cat than I was,” Jarman said.

While taking photos of the animal, it took both men to lift it up initially. Then, they skinned it and drove back to camp on the snowmobiles, as the dogs rode happily alongside on the sleds.

When they got back to the house, Russ explained to Jarman the cat he shot may be a record holder. Marc Hubbard is an official measurer and initially said the skull size gave it the fourth-largest mountain lion in the world title.

“We have to re-measure the skull, it’s a length by width measurement,” Russ said. “I’ll measure it first and get it down to 1/16th of an inch. Then, once it’s certified by my dad, than gets submitted to Safari Club International trophy record book.”

Since the cat was shot recently, it needs to wait 60 days to dry to become an official measurement, but Jarman said he feels good about Hubbard’s measurement.

“It’s a feeling of luck,” Jarman said. “If it was a cat half as big as that, I would have shot it. But to have it hit the record books is just the cherry on the cake. It’s pretty exciting.”

The skin won’t be shipped back into the United States until March or April, Jarman said.

This wasn’t Jarman’s first big trip. He said he’s gone to New Mexico hunting elk, Alaska hunting brown bear and to the Arctic Circle for polar bear.

It’s impossible to pick up the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus shotgun and not immediately feel the quality and see the precision of this gas-driven auto-loader. Then you bring the gun to your shoulder, fire it, and realize that it’s one of the softest 3½-inch, 12 gauge shotguns you have ever shot. You must pay a higher price for that experience of course (MSRP is $1,749), but Beretta has been making some of the best semi-autos the hunting world has seen since the A300 series shotguns were introduced in the early 1980s. When you buy a Beretta, you’re investing in gun that will likely last generations.

The Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus is the the pinnacle in Beretta’s long-running history of building a semi-auto shotgun that just about every waterfowler wants in their gun closet…probably right next to workhorses like their 3-inch shotgun the A390 and Xtrema2. Here’s a closer look at what makes the A400 Xtreme Plus our Editor’s Choice of the best duck hunting shotguns.

Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus Specifications and Features

These are the standard options that are included in the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus shotgun:

• Gauge: 12
• Action: Semi-auto
• Capacity: 3+1
• Chamber 3½-inch
• Barrel type: Optima Bore HP Steelium Plus
• Barrel length: 26-, 28- (tested), 30-inch
• Chokes: 5 Extended (F, M, IM, IC, C)
• Front sight: Fiber-optic
• Finish: synthetic, Realtree Timber, Max-5, Mossy Oak Bottomland, Kryptek Wraith, TrueTimber
• Length: 49½ inches
• LOP: 14.3 inches
• Trigger pull: 5.1 pounds
• Overall weight: 7.8 pounds
• MSRP: $1,749

The Kick-Off Mega System Drives the Beretta A400

The lack of recoil that shooters experience is what sets the Beretta A400 apart from competitors like Benelli, Browning, and Winchester. Beretta calls it the Kick-Off Mega, which is a three-spring hydraulic system inside the stock that softens the blow of recoil. Part of the Kick-Off3 system is a long spring-loaded steel rod contained in the pistol grip of the stock, which acts as a buffer as the bolt moves reward. There’s also a rubber recoil pad on the buttstock and another rubber pad where your cheek meets the stock. That rubber pad will lessen any recoil you may feel, but it also acts as a good cheek weld, to keep you “in the gun” when ducks are swinging through the decoys.

I’ve shot light target loads, 1 1/8-ounce duck and goose shells, and 2-ounce lead turkey ammo through the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus shotgun, and it’s never thumped me. You can certainly tell the difference when you’re shooting those different charge weights, but it only feels like deeper pressure on your shoulder. It’s kind of like the difference in getting a light massage versus a deep tissue.

The A400 Was Built For a Specific Purpose

You won’t see many duck guides carrying the A400 Xtreme Plus. That’s not a strike against this gun. It’s just heavier than most modern auto-loaders, and guides are tasked with carrying more gear than their clients, so they will often trade a bit more recoil for a lighter gun. Plus, they don’t shoot as much as the clients. It’s definitely a blind hunter’s gun; built for folks that boat in or don’t have to make long walks down a levee to a public stake. You certainly can tote this gun into the marsh—I have and so do many others—but it is much more cumbersome than a Benelli or Browning auto. While it may not be a joy to carry, once you get to your hunting spot there are few guns that can compete with the accuracy and soft recoil of this Beretta.

It’s definitely not meant to be an upland shotgun. It will kill a flushing rooster just fine, and if you pheasant hunt occasionally, the A400 will serve your purpose. But if you’re a dyed-in-the-wool bird hunter, who loves hunting behind pointers every weekend, there are better guns in the Beretta stable, like the A400 Action 20-gauge, or Beretta’s high-end double guns.

Throw a sling and red-dot optic (the receiver is drilled and tapped for one) on the A400 and it makes a fine, albeit weighty turkey gun. And it’s a hell of a clays gun, cycling 2 3/4-inch, 1-ounce target loads with ease. You won’t see a diehard skeet shooter pick this model of A400 (there is a clays version), but again, if you’re an occasional target shooter, this gun can do the job. It’s length, weight, and balance point, which is perfectly centered, make it easier to swing on clays than light autos that are easy to get moving but tougher keep in front of the bird.

Beretta’s A400 Has Superior Ergonomics

When you first hold the A400 in hand, it feels like a heavy gun, even though it’s only 7.8 pounds. But by today’s duck gun standards, that’s heavy (the A400 Xtreme Plus was only outweighed by the Remington 1100 and an old Browning BPS, that were part of our Texas gun test). It’s also a long shotgun at 49½ inches with a fat fore-end that folks with smaller hands might have trouble getting a good grip on.

But, as mentioned previously, long, heavy guns are often easier to shoot than shotguns that are a full pound (or more) lighter, which many modern auto-loaders are. It was advantageous to shoot the A400 on flittering bluewing teal that couldn’t decide if they would splash down in the decoys or rocket through them at 40 mph. With a big gun, your firearm is more apt to be in motion because it’s harder to stop and that’s a good thing when you’re shooting at ducks with unpredictable flight patterns. Field & Stream Shooting Editor Phil Bourjaliy has told me many times, that the bigger and clunkier a gun looks and feels, the easier it is to shoot, and that’s certainly true of the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus.

It doesn’t have the pointy feel of a Benelli when you first start shooting the A400, but most hunters do shoot it well. The four of us certainly did in Texas, and anyone we handed the gun off to at the clays range shot it as good as their own personal guns, or close to it. That’s a staple of Berettas—they fit just about anyone.

The A400 Xtreme Plus Has Plenty of Extras

Like most of today’s duck guns, the Beretta A400 features an enlarged loading port and trigger guard, which makes it easier to load shells and pull the trigger with gloved hands. I performed both operations with a thick set of gloves on and had no issues. There’s also an extended charging handle for better grip when you’re unloading the gun, and a large lever-like bolt release button.

Once you open the bolt by depressing the button under the carrier, do be careful of accidently touching off the bolt-release button. It’s so large and sensitive that when I was walking an unloaded A400 out of the marsh on my shoulder I hit the bolt-release and it closed the bolt, pinching my shirt into the action. I also caught my fingers in the receiver on an accidental closure—it does not feel good.

There is no cut-off lever on the left side of the A400 Xtrem Plus. The first generation of the gun had one. It allows the bolt to remain open and keep the remaining shells in the magazine without entering the carrier and being lifted into battery. This is a feature some hunters use if they’re duck hunting and a big, greasy 12-pound resident honker starts winging its way towards the decoys. Press the lever, eject your 3-inch, No. 4 duck shotshell and you could slide in a load of BBs. But you won’t have that convenience with the new model.

The fore-end cap is easy to take off, requiring just a half-turn to remove it. That’s handy if you need to perform a quick field strip of the gun. The cap is also neon green on the inside rim, so if you drop it in the bottom of the pit blind at 5 a.m., it should be a little easier to find under the glare of your headlamp.

A Look Inside the A400

If you’ve ever cleaned a Beretta A390, you know that there are multiple pieces to remove and clean once the fore-end comes off. Beretta has made it much easier to perform maintenance on its guns with the A400 line. Once the fore-end is removed, the barrel slides out of the receiver. The gas piston is located inside a metal cylinder under the barrel and simply slides out for cleaning. To remove the bolt assembly, you depress the rotating bolt head, take out the bolt handle, and the bolt, bolt carrier, piston stock, and recoil spring all come out in one piece. Removing the bolt handle can be tricky. You have to push the bolt head back into the receiver until it starts to rotate, then the handle should come free.

The trigger assembly is held in place by a single trigger pin, which makes removing and re-insertion fast.

Testing the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus

The A400 Xtreme Plus we shot had no issues cycling. A team of four editors—myself included—from Outdoor Life and Field & Stream tested the gun—along with 16 others—on sporting clays and bluewing teal for three days in Sept. 2021, at Pintail Hunting Club in Garwood, Texas. We put the gun through as much hell as we could find, dropping it in the water and muddy marsh, running hundreds of rounds through it, and letting it sit in the back of the truck with a bunch of other dirty guns, never cleaning it. The A400 didn’t hiccup once. It also was one of the fastest-cycling guns in our test, thanks to the Blink system, which Beretta touts as 36 percent faster than other shotguns. We couldn’t put an actual percentage to it, but it was a damn fast gun.

You may recall, the first version of the A400 did have some trouble ejecting 3- and 3½-inch shotshells. It wasn’t every gun, mind you, and I never experienced that issue with any A400 Xtreme I shot, but did witness others have a problem. I saw it struggle most with 3½-inch Remington Hypersonic and during snow goose shoots when the gun had to rapidly cycle an extension magazine full of 3-inch ammo. I asked different Beretta sales reps and engineers at the time what was going on with the gun, but the answers were always murky.

This gun doesn’t seem to have the same cycling issues. I’ve only seen the A400 Xtreme Plus fail to eject a spent shell on one hunt. It was an extremely cold day in February and my buddy was shooting a brand of shotshell that flared at the business end of the hull after ignition. And those “petals” would hang on in the action. I can’t say whether it was the gun’s fault or the shotshell’s; it’s just what I observed. And my friend has shot the same brand before and experienced clean ejection. So it could have been a bad batch of ammo.

The same friend that had the malfunction in February shot his A400 on snow geese a few weeks later after a good cleaning in warmer weather, with a different brand of ammo, and it ran through 10 rounds (he had an extension magazine on it) in multiple volleys, no problem. Another hunter also was shooting the A400 Xtreme Plus on that trip, and had no issues with his gun, which was also equipped with an extension mag.

How the A400 Patterned

Since we tested so many guns (17) in Texas, we picked one distance (35 yards) to pattern each gun from. The industry standard is 40 yards, but we wanted to showcase the patterns at a more realistic yardage for duck hunters. Plus, your average hunter should keep shooting distances inside 35 yards. Once you get out to 40 it takes more skill, and the likelihood of crippling birds goes up.

We patterned each gun with Federal Speed Shok 3-inch, No. 2s with a muzzle velocity of 1,550 fps and a charge weight of 1 1/8 ounces.

The Beretta A400 shot 60 percent above and 40 percent below point-of-impact. It’s a gun that shoots where you point it. Its best pattern put 109 of 140 (78 percent) pellets inside the 30-inch circle. That wasn’t the best overall pattern of the shotgun test, but it was one of the most even. It filled the target with no holes that a duck could fly through. Some guns like to shoot right, left, high or low, but the A400 was dead on. You cover a mallard with this gun and it will kill it.

Final Thoughts on the Beretta A400 Xtreme Plus

If you’re a gas gun stalwart and have the financial means, there is no better auto-loading duck hunting gun than the Beretta A400. Anything Beretta got wrong with the first generation of this gun, it fixed with the new model. Yes, it’s a little clunky and heavy, but you can’t argue with its accuracy, reliability, and light recoil. Plus, this shotgun is going to be in your family far past your lifetime. When you take that into consideration, $1,800 isn’t such an exorbitant price tag for gun that could someday belong to your grandchildren.