Question: My bow continues to paper-tune with a tail-left tear. I’ve tried moving my rest to the right, to the left, and I’ve adjusted the string-yoke harnesses as suggested by a friend. But I’m still getting a ragged tear and lousy broadhead flight. Can you help? — Alex D., via e-mail

Answer: Bows that don’t tune easy can be frustrating, and I’ve even had a few that wouldn’t tune at all! However, modern-day bows are manufactured with exceedingly close tolerances, so it’s a matter of making a few small adjustments to solve the problem. It could be as easy as resetting the cams, so they are synchronized and rotating plumb with the bowstring. Or you may have to move one or both cams to a different position along the axle by adding shims (small spacers) to one side of the cam and removing from the other.

Such steps are often referred to as “super-tuning,” but these actions simply place the bow’s powerstroke directly in line with the arrow. Shooting style varies, so although the bow may tune perfectly in a shooting machine, this may not be the case for a particular archer.

To perform these tuning steps, you need to have access to a quality press and some basic archery tools so you can work systematically until the flight issue is cured.

When tuning a bow, don’t skip the basics. With a persistent tear like yours, be sure to first check for fletching contact. Spray aerosol foot-powder across the arrow’s fletching area, then shoot it into a firm backstop. Any “smears” of the white powder indicate vane contact with the rest, cables, or riser — a common culprit of poor arrow flight. Also, don’t tune a bow without using several shafts to see if the tears remain the same. If spine varies from one arrow to the next (trust me, not every arrow is made the same), you’ll see various types of tears. Twisting the nock in one-quarter increments could also produce different tears.

Once the basics are covered, move on to synchronizing the cams. The cables should strike the cable stops at the exact same time. Next, assess each cam’s vertical position while at full draw. Cam lean is checked by using a bow-drawing device (or draw board) to allow an easy evaluation of how the cams are oriented. By laying an arrow across the surface of the cam, you can determine if the cam is in line with the bowstring. If the arrow points off-center to the left or right, then cam lean is present. If a draw board is not available, draw your bow and have a friend assess the cams’ positioning. To fix cam lean, adjust the string-yoke harness by twisting one side and untwisting the other, allowing the limb’s tip to equalize the load.

If the left tear persists, try moving your rest to the right, but oftentimes this only works for a very small left tear. Rest adjustments are better for “micro-tuning” groups downrange and adjusting the points of impact for fieldpoints and broadheads. Overall, it’s better to maintain the proper arrow centershot position as recommended by the bow’s manufacturer. This provides improved vane clearance and allows the arrow to stay in the center of the bow’s riser, limbs, and grip for optimum performance.

With large or persistent tears, shimming one or both cams will eventually eliminate the tear (I prefer to yoke-tune first). When repositioning the cam, always move it in the direction of the tear. Depending on your bow’s spacers, you may have to purchase new shims with varying thicknesses to make the necessary horizontal adjustments. Lancaster Archery and Last Chance Archery sell relatively inexpensive spacer kits and tools for this type of tuning.

There are several ways to tune a bow, but I believe paper-tuning is the most precise way to capture irregularities in arrow flight because it examines flight issues only a few feet from the bow. To improve paper-tuning even more, try using a bare shaft. To simulate the weight of vanes, wrap the rear of the shaft with a piece of electrical tape. The bare shaft will expose the smallest rips in paper so you can improve consistency downrange. Any small accuracy adjustments at this point are resolved by moving the rest or D-loop in 1⁄16″ or 3⁄32″ increments until maximum accuracy is achieved.

Bull sharks and crocodiles are enigmatic oceanic creatures. Let us together draw a comparative analysis on them.

Both bull sharks and crocodiles are powerful predators with excellent combat skills. While sharks keep biting their prey till it is mutilated and dead, crocodiles hang on to their flesh and remove it from their bodies before feeding on it. In addition, crocodiles live on both land and water, whereas sharks can survive only in water.

Today, we will together look at some of the most common questions people ask about the differences between bull sharks and crocodiles.

Image Credits: “Hartley’s Creek Crocodile farm” by Sue Waters is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Image Credits: “オオメジロザメ Bull shark” by ume-y is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Do bull sharks attack crocodiles?

Bull sharks and crocodiles are hostile animals, without a doubt. Let us explore whether bull sharks attack crocodiles.

Bull sharks do not attack crocodiles, but the opposite is entirely possible. There have been several recorded instances over the years of crocodiles biting and eating bull sharks, along with other shark species such as lemon sharks. In fact, saltwater crocodiles are notorious for attacking and eating bull sharks.

Crocodiles are aggressive animals known for their ferocity. Therefore, they often prey on bull sharks and other shark species in addition to fishes and other marine animals.

Is a shark stronger than a crocodile?

Sharks are powerful animals with tremendous strength. But are sharks stronger than crocodiles? Let us find out.

Sharks are not stronger than crocodiles, with the exception of the great white sharks. Bull sharks are often attacked by crocodiles, and so are lemon sharks and tiger sharks. Great white sharks are powerful enough to engage in combat with crocodiles, and they are also fast swimmers, which gives them an added advantage.

Crocodiles are massive animals that kill marine creatures quite indiscriminately. From sharks to fishes and seagulls, crocodiles attack one and all because of their tremendous strength.

Saltwater crocodile vs bull shark

Image Credits: “Saltwater Crocodile (Crocodylus porosus)” by berniedup is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Image credits: “オオメジロザメ Bull shark” by ume-y is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Saltwater crocodiles and bull sharks are two distinct species. Let us draw a comparative analysis on them.

Saltwater crocodiles are humongous animals who eat indiscriminately, whereas bull sharks adhere to a very specific diet comprising fishes and smaller sharks. Saltwater crocodiles are powerful and can easily munch through a bull shark. In fact, bull sharks prefer occupying freshwaters and do not thrive in saltwater regions. Therefore, attacking them becomes easier.

Saltwater crocodiles have a tremendous advantage over bull sharks and can easily overpower them. In fact, there have been several recorded instances of bull sharks being eaten by saltwater crocodiles.

Bull sharks vs saltwater crocodile bite

Image Credits: “Crocodiles Mouth-01&” by Sheba Also 18 Million Views is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Both bull sharks and crocodiles have a strong bite that can injure possible victims. Let us learn which of the two has a stronger bite.

Saltwater crocodiles are fantastic biters and have the most powerful bite among all crocodile species, whereas bull sharks have the best bite among the shark species. Although both bull sharks and crocodiles are excellent biters, saltwater crocodiles have a biting force of 3,700 pounds per square inch to bite through hard and soft-shelled prey.

That being said, bull sharks are strong biters, too but lack the force that characterizes crocodiles.

Bull shark vs crocodile appearance

Bull sharks and crocodiles have very distinct appearances, and even a layman can tell them apart. Let us learn more in this regard.

Bull sharks are essentially shark species that are cartilaginous and live in water at all times, whereas crocodiles belong to the family of reptiles and live on land too. Besides, bull sharks grow up to 11-20 feet, whereas most crocodiles attain a similar height and grow anywhere between 10 to 20 feet.

We must mention here that grown up bull sharks weigh slightly more than crocodiles. On average, most bull sharks will weigh 1,000 to 2,400 lbs, whereas crocodiles can weigh 2,000 pounds at maximum.

Bull sharks vs crocodiles teeth

One major point of dissimilarity between bull sharks and crocodiles is their teeth structure. Allow us to tell you more in this regard.

Bull sharks have around 50 odd teeth in the front row itself, and overall, they have 300 teeth on average, whereas crocodiles have around 66 conical-shaped teeth. As some of you might already know, sharks lose and regrow their teeth several times during their lifetime. Even crocodiles shed their old teeth but not as frequently as sharks.

Needless to say, both bull sharks and crocodiles need a strong set of teeth to survive in the ocean and hunt for potential prey.

Bull sharks vs crocodiles lifespan

Bull sharks and crocodiles also vary in terms of their lifespan. Allow us to tell you more on this topic.

On average, saltwater crocodiles can live up to 70 years, whereas bull sharks can live up to 12-16 years. Most crocodile species live merely up to 30-40 years, with the Nile crocodile clocking in a lifespan of 50-60 years. In captivity, bull sharks have been known to live up to 30 years. Most sharks have a similar lifespan of 20 to 30 years.

Bull sharks vs crocodiles movement

Image Credits: “Bull Shark” by Relativiox is marked with CC BY 2.0.

A common question asked about bull sharks and crocodiles is how they vary in terms of speed. Let us learn more in this regard.

Most sharks can swim faster than crocodiles, especially the great white sharks. On average, bull sharks can swim at the rate of 35 mph, whereas crocodiles can swim only up to 15mph when in water and around 22mph when they are on land. Since sharks swim faster in water, they might sometimes escape attacks from crocodiles.

Conclusion

Bull sharks and crocodiles are two of the most fierce, dangerous aquatic species. They have a powerful jaw and can easily bite into and tear apart their prey. In terms of senses, sharks see better when they are in water and can also smell blood. Crocodiles, on the other hand, have better defenses since they can move on both land and water and have really tough skin, which makes recoveries from injuries quicker.

One thousand yards is considered to be a long-range distance for shooters, whether you’re hunting or target shooting. Therefore, for the best hunting experience, you need a long-range rifle scope that will provide you with the best image quality and top accuracy. A magnification range plays a big part in that, so it’s important to know the best magnification for a 1000-yard scope so you can shoot long range. Keep reading to find out what it is.

Scope Magnification for 1,000 Yards: The Basics

When people think of extremely high magnification scopes, they think of Spotting Scope vs Telescope. The human eye can only see so far, which is why a high magnification range is a must for any long-range shooting. If you regularly partake in long-range hunting to catch animals that are easily startled, you need to choose a rifle scope with enough magnification for targets up to 1,000 yards.

The best scope magnification for 1,000 yards makes your target seem like it’s no more than 100 yards away, which can be done with about 10x magnification. This provides you with a major advantage that will see your shooting success rate at long range skyrocket. However, you won’t always need a magnification of 10x, which you should keep in mind when choosing the Best Spotting Scope for 1000 Yards for you.

Scope Magnification for 1,000 Yards: How to Choose

It may be tempting to choose a scope that has a higher magnification range, especially if you go long-range shooting often. However, you have to have a thorough understanding of your hunting habits in order to validate that this is the right choice for you.

When in doubt, go with a rifle scope that provides you with more flexibility as to not limit you on your hunting trips, like a 4-16×50 rifle scope. A scope with variable magnification is the best choice to provide you with that versatility, refine your skills, and help you make the most out of your hunting trips.

Chances are you will occasionally need to catch a target that’s closer than the 1,000-yard range. In fact, this may happen more often than catching targets at 1,000 yards. This is why you don’t want to choose a rifle scope with a starting magnification that’s too high. Staying within a starting magnification of 4x to 6x is a safe bet. For the best results, choose a rifle scope with a magnification of 6x-24x or 5x-30x to give you enough options out on the field. If 1,000 yards is too extreme, check out Best Scope Magnification for 500 Yards. There is a scope that fits everyone’s needs!

Other Things to Consider for Scopes for 1,000 Yards

Magnification is one of the most important factors to consider when choosing the right scope. It’s more important for longer-range shooting than for shorter distances that may not need as much magnification. Obviously you wouldn’t use a 4×32 scope range for long distance shots!

Although magnification is up there in terms of factors that affect long-range shooting, there are several other factors that you should consider when purchasing a scope for 1,000 yards. These factors include:

• Reticles and reticle adjustment
• Quality of the glass (including clarity, brightness, and color)
• Field of view (FOV)
• Durability of the body

Scope Magnification for 1,000 Yards – Vortex Viper HST 6-24×50 Rifle Scope

If you’re looking for a high-quality rifle scope for the 1,000-yard range, look no further than the Vortex Viper HST 6-24×50 Rifle Scope.

With a magnification of 6x-24x, the Vortex Optics Viper is great for accurate holds at a long range. The 4x zoom provides versatility and provides a lot of scope adjustability. The side-focus parallax adjustment provides solid image focus and parallax removal. Use the fast focus eyepiece to quickly adjust the reticle to your eye and find your target.

This optic also features premium, multi-coated, extra-low dispersion lenses for excellent resolution and prime color fidelity. You’ll also find exposed turrets, styled like targets, for repeatable and precise finger-adjustable clicks. In all, this is a top choice from Vortex for a scope for 1,000 yards that will deliver results.

Frequently Asked Questions

Conclusion

Long-range shooting extends the possibilities of your hunting trip and allows you to hit targets that would be impossible to strike at shorter distances. Therefore, it’s worth investing in scope magnification for 1,000 yards to give you the best chance of hitting all of your targets. Hopefully, this article has given you an idea of whether a scope for 1,000 yards is right for you.

Raccoons are common cohabitors with humans all across North America. These large and furry critters are definitely charming, at least when they are at rest, thanks to their dusky gray fur, iconic black mask, and ringed, puffy tail.

And those little paws that are so much like hands in their dexterity!

Precious, but these mobile mammalian miscreants have something of an unsavory reputation thanks to their propensity for breaking into trash, sheds, and even homes in search of food, even stealing it right out the bowls of our pets. The nerve of these procyons!

Unlike most other mammalian pests raccoons represent something of a challenge when it comes time to get rid of them, or relocate them.

This is due to their high intelligence, dexterity, and persistence which put most other animals to shame.

You can find hours and hours of video content on YouTube and elsewhere chronicling people’s trials and tribulations attempting to catch or otherwise dispatch these clever adversaries.

But as it turns out raccoons do have one weakness, an Achilles’ heel you might say. They love food, really love it.

Since they are so preoccupied with obtaining choice and delicious fare it is easy to manipulate raccoons into a trap or a spot where they are easy to dispatch by luring them with the right bait. In this article, we will share with you 10 foods that make ideal raccoon bait.

Know Your Enemy

Before you can set off placing bait for any animal you want to catch, it is beneficial to know a little bit about its behaviors, preferences, and food acquisition strategies.

Raccoons are absolutely voracious and vigorous pilferers of any sort of food stuff that they have access to, from the leftovers and kitchen scraps and trash cans to a bowl of dog or kitty litter left out for the family pet. Nothing seems to be safe or beyond interest for these furry thieves!

That is because raccoons are omnivorous, and indeed might be one of the most omnivorous animals on Earth.

This means that they eat a varied and mixed diet, consisting of animal, insect, and plant matter. Worms and insects are favorites as are aquatic items like crayfish.

That being said, raccoons are noted through study as developing strong individual preferences for food, and in social settings, raccoons occupying a given area will strongly gravitate towards foods typical in that area.

Urbanized raccoons will develop a fondness for human food and often pet food. Raccoons living in more remote places will eat a mixed diet of insects, worms, nuts, berries, and other natural fares.

Though they do not take larger live prey often if ever, they will happily scavenge from carcasses or found sources of animal protein.

Curiously, raccoons always show a strong preference for very moist food and even indulge in what is known as “washing” behavior when they have a water source nearby: they dip and rub their food in water before consuming it.

If you notice a strong bias towards wet, moist, and juicy food on our list below, you’ll now know why!

Raccoons are also highly motivated by scent, and that means the more fragrance that is generated the more appetizing and irresistible it will be for the raccoon in question.

This means that foods that are oily, stinky, or otherwise known for potent fragrance will be your best bet much of the time. Class dismissed, let’s get to the list.

The Best Raccoon Baits You Can Use

1. Marshmallows

Believe it or not, quite a few pest control professionals and several raccoon-catching experts will advocate the use of marshmallows for catching raccoons in suburban and urban areas.

First, these raccoons usually take up with sugary, sweet human foods pretty quickly and some folks even postulate the bright white coloring of the marshmallow catches moonlight at night when raccoons are most active, arousing their curiosity since they might mistake it for bird or reptile eggs, one of their most commonly poached food items in the wild.

If you want to try marshmallows for nabbing a raccoon lurking around your property, you should try both the small, button-sized ones and the larger, extra fluffy ones.

The raccoons might show a preference for one or the other, or they might not, but you should not underestimate how many a raccoon could eat in a short time.

You might need a backup bag to keep enticing them, and remember that raccoons are social, so they are likely to be traveling with friends!

2. Sardines

It is harder to think of a food it is more intensely, ah, flavored and more pungent than sardines.

These cans of tiny fish are definitely a love it or hate it delicacy among humans, and a surefire way to start a fight on pizza night is to include them on a pie intended for sharing.

Nonetheless, raccoons that are acclimatized to aquatic foodstuffs will find them utterly irresistible.

As mentioned above, raccoons have a preference for moist and highly odorific food and sardines check both of those boxes with big, bold red markers.

Sardines will dry out reasonably quickly when removed from their can, so consider dumping them out into a bowl or small dish that will help keep them moist.

Additionally, the larger the surface area that you can provide for their oil will only increase the loft or throw of the scent, increasing the chances that the raccoon will detect it sooner.

3. Peanut Butter

There hardly seems to be a mammal you cannot catch with peanut butter. Mice and rats love it, dogs love it, and as it turns out raccoons lose their minds for the stuff.

This is because the raccoons have always displayed a strong preference for acorns, walnuts, and other nuts throughout history and they are a staple foodstuff for wild raccoons that have not been exposed to human activity or human trash.

You can easily exploit this baked-in preference for delicious nuts by using peanut butter as bait.

Yes, I know that peanuts aren’t real nuts, but they are not analogs as far as food is concerned and are packed with protein and fat which means raccoons will love them.

Peanut butter always has an advantage as bait because it is cheap, and plentiful and the smell won’t drive you out of your mind. It is also easy to set up in or around a trap in any way that might be desired.

4. Roasted Poultry

Roasted poultry is fine raccoon bait, and smells just as appetizing to them as it does to us.

Contrary to legend, it is a vanishing rarity that a raccoon could ever catch and eat a live bird if it was even to attempt at all, though they are in veteran consumers of both bird and reptile eggs as mentioned above.

That being said, you will not find a raccoon in the land that will turn down a delicious dinner of roasted turkey or chicken.

You can use scraps of meat from your own meal, old leftovers that you were going to throw out anyway or even cold cuts from the deli counter that you heat up and slather with a little broth or gravy.

All you need to remember is that raccoons show a strong preference for wet or moist food, so don’t let it dry out and you’ll ensure that the scent stays on the wind and the raccoons will be drawn in like moths to a flame.

5. Roasted Pork

Similar to the roasted poultry entry above, there is just something about a roasted ham slice that raccoons cannot resist. And who can blame them!

Pork is fatty, salty, and delicious according to most human methods of preparation, and the same characteristics that make pork desirable to us mean it will be desirable to the masked bandits.

You have all sorts of ways to prepare pork and any one of them will do fine for raccoon catching so long as you follow the guidelines.

Scraps of pork pulled from a whole hog that has been barbecued are ideal, as are thick-cut ham steaks, something the raccoon can really sink its teeth into.

But you could use thicker dinner cut pork slices, pork chops, or even thin-sliced deli ham. Just remember to keep it moist one way or the other and it won’t be long before your guests show up.

6. Tuna

By now you probably saw the heading for this entry and nodded to yourself: “Yep, that’s good raccoon bait!”.

And you’d be right because tuna is fish, which raccoons typically love, stinky and wet and just the way they like it.

This makes tuna a triple threat for raccoons that works about as well as a mind-control spell. They cannot help themselves!

Tuna has a major advantage for catching raccoons in that typically wild raccoons as well as urbanized ones both enjoy it, so if you are ever in doubt you can head down to the grocery store or even your local corner store and grab a couple of cans.

Just make sure you get tuna that is packaged in oil, not water, if at all possible. Remember, the stinkier the better!

7. Soft Candy

Soft candies of various kinds are another good bait option for raccoons in an urban or suburban environment.

Remember that raccoons are opportunists, and there have been plenty of sweet treats pillaged by these tricky little rascals either sitting in storage, in transit or thrown out in the trash.

That means that raccoons occupying these environments have a serious sweet tooth, a sweet tooth you can exploit.

You should choose candies that are soft and easy to eat not only to make them more palatable but also to ensure that more of their scent gets on the wind.

Assuming the candy will hold up to some extra moisture, it might be a good idea to wet them gently in order to increase their fragrance, and don’t worry about it if they get caught in the rain. Raccoons never mind soggy food!

8. Fruit

Raccoons are perennial fruit eaters, of all kinds, and they especially love soft, juicy sweet fruits like watermelon, cantaloupe and pineapple.

That being said they will eat pretty much any kind of fruit, from plums and grapes to berries and apples. So long as the fruit is cut open or the raccoons can smell it they will be drawn to it.

Brightly colored fruit seems to work best but you can use anything you have on hand. Fresh fruit will work as will canned fruit, so you don’t need to be picky because raccoons sure aren’t.

That being said, make sure you keep a close eye on your bait and refresh the fruit when it starts to rot or dissolve away. Fruit more than most bait seems to do best when it is fresher.

9. Soy Sauce

Soy sauce is not a food per se but it is a condiment and therefore it is technically a food for the purposes of this list.

Regardless, it is extremely pungent and can be poured on other items to greatly increase the loft of its scent, making it a sort of “amplifier” for other baits.

This can be used with otherwise only modestly-appealing baits like bread or added to high-quality baits like roasted pork or poultry to make a dish that will be calling in raccoons from across the county.

If you are struggling to catch a raccoon with what baits you have on hand, consider adding a little shot of warmed soy sauce to it and pouring some extra on the plate or around the dish where you have placed the bait.

This will always give raccoons extra incentive to investigate the intoxicating aroma.

10. Cat/Dog Food

You should have figured this one out long before you ever thought about actually having to get around to catching the raccoon.

Most people find themselves in this situation because of chronically stolen pet food and increasing numbers of hungry, grasping little hands looking for a handout at night.

Raccoons love pet food, particularly cat and dog kibble as well as the ever-precious wet food.

You don’t need to swim uphill if you are trying to bait a raccoon that has been stealing your pet’s food.

Simply relocate some of the food into the animal trap or killzone and wait for the little mongrel to show up and collect his due.

As always, wet food generally works better but if you have dry food that’s okay, simply put out a little dish of water to go with it because apparently there is nothing raccoons love more than dipping dry pet food in a nearby bowl of water.

Conclusion

Raccoons are the half-glutton, half-gourmand of the animal world, and there is a wide variety of baits that will work wonderfully when it comes time to lure them into a diy trap or an ambush.

Read over the suggested baits we have furnished you with on this list and assess them against the environment your raccoons are in. I have no doubt that you’ll have a handful that will work wonderfully.

Whitetail deer are one of the most common game animals for hunters in the USA. But how many points do you score for that big buck’s antlers? Learning how to add all the points isn’t too difficult, but it does take a little practice. Here’s a guide to counting deer points and scoring your prize buck.

You don’t have to be a math whiz to learn how to count points on deer antlers correctly. Any hunter, regardless of qualification, can count points on their buck by reading up on techniques online. The Boone and Crockett Club website includes a user-friendly, easy-to-use scoring chart that will help you score your whitetail deer quickly and accurately.

Simply follow along, punch in those numbers, and let the internal technology handle the rest. If you’re a new hunter and looking at how to count points on your buck, you’ve come to the right place. In this article, we’ll look into everything you need to know about scoring your buck and much more. Let’s get started!

What is the Boone and Crocket Scoring System?

Hunters have long kept track of the sizes and measurements of the racks on the deer they shoot, even before record books were established. This has made it easier for hunters to remember the size of the animals and compare them to other bucks shot by other hunters.

However, because there was no standardized method for measuring and tallying rack sizes, many hunters disagreed about which bucks were the largest. Sometimes, hunters were not using the same measurements. Even when they agreed on something, such as counting the normal points, nearly all the bucks compared had differences that produced important questions.

For example:

• Which are the main points on a buck that can be scored?
• What qualifies as an antler point?
• What about other antler points and abnormal points?

The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization created in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt for passionate big-game hunters. An authorized committee of B&C members took on the challenge of widening the scope of the club’s current basic methodology to a more complete, equitable, and objective measurement system.

This system was meant to recognize remarkable North American big game animals.

Their actions developed an objective, honest, and fair grading system known as the Boone and Crockett scoring system. The Boone and Crockett record book classified scores into two groups:

Boone and Crockett Awards = 160-170

Boone and Crockett All-Time Awards = 170+

Their score sheet is available on their website; you can download it and enter the measurements. If you submit the Boone and Crockett Club with your information, they’ll use it to create valuable data. This information can then be used for conservation and game management.

Typical vs. Non-typical Deer Antlers

Hunters coined “typical” and “non-typical” antlers to describe the relative size of killed bucks. A typical deer has a symmetrical rack, which means that each antler’s orientation, the direction of tines, the number of points, and general arrangement are mirror images of one another.

In contrast, a non-typical deer looks unbalanced, and you can identify them at a glance. You’ll notice that the point count on each side does not match. This imbalanced appearance can be counted easily as having six points on one antler and four on the other.

However, if you’re scoring a BC score, the difference between typical and non-typical becomes prominent. When you score a typical buck, abnormal points will be deducted from your total score. But when you score a non-typical buck, you get extra points.

The lengths of the atypical scores are included in the final net score sheet, which is the main difference between scoring a typical and a non-typical rack. On a typical buck, these values are deducted from the score sheet. The majority of non-typical points include spits and kicker points. Drop tines, for example, are far less common to come across.

How to Count Points on a Buck’s Antlers

Now that you know some basic aspects of point counting, let’s look at how to score your buck accurately.

Step 1: Measure the Antler Beam Length

The first step is to measure the entire antler length from base to tip. As a deer antler is certainly not a perfectly straight piece that you can measure with a simple ruler or tape, this process can be challenging.

You may use a flexible cable or string to measure the exact length of the main beams. You’ll want to trace the beam length using the cable/string. After you reach the end, use an alligator clip or tape, or ask a friend to mark the end.

Now measure the length of the string or cable for the beam length. After measuring, take record and repeat the process on the other antler.

Step 2: Measure the Tine to Get Your “G” Measurements

The “G” values refer to the antlers’ tines. Each tine’s measurement is assigned a G and a number, beginning with the tine closest to the skull. G1 refers to the first tine (closest to the skull), G2 corresponds to the following tine, and so on.

To obtain the “G” values, put a piece of tape over the base of the tine, aligning it with the top edge of the main beam. After placing the tape, measure from the base of the tine to the top. Repeat this for each tine and record your measurements.

Step 3: Measure Abnormal Points

What counts as abnormal? Any tine or point that does not come from the main beam. This can include leaners, stickers, kickers, and drop tines. Abnormal points are measured independently from the main tines and noted in their own category on the scoring sheet.

To be counted as a point, a tine must be at least 1 inch long, and its width should be less than its length (for example, a 2-inch tine with a 2 1/2-inch base would not count).

Step 4: Measure the Inside Spread

Calculate the inside spread of the two antlers, which is the distance between the insides of the antlers’ outer sections. This measurement is taken perpendicular to the skull’s center line. The Boone & Crockett scoring chart refers to this measurement as a “spread credit” if it is shorter than the longest main beam.

If your spread credit is longer than the main beam, then that longer main beam length will decide your overall score. For instance, if the inside spread is 22 inches and the longest of the two main beams is 20 inches, then 20 inches is used as the inside spread credit.

Step 5: Take Circumference Measurements or the “H”

You’ll probably require more than just a regular carpenter’s tape measure to finish the “H” measurements. Here you’ll need a flexible tape measure used by tailors since you’ll have to wrap it around the antlers to obtain the circumference. Alternatively, you can roll a wire around the antler, measure the wire, and then mark the circumference.

Any antler, regardless of the number of tines, will have eight total H measures, four on each side. The H1 measurement will be the least circumference between the first point and the burr. The smallest circumference between the first and second points will be the H2 measurement. Continue taking measurements until you have four measurements for both antlers.

The smallest point between the following G points is used for all other circumference measurements. If G4 is absent, H4 is taken halfway between the center of G3’s base and the main beam’s tip.

For example, if you get a 6 point without G3 or G4, find the halfway point between the G2 and the main beam’s tip, measure its circumference, and use this value as your H3 and H4 measurements.

Step 6: Add the Measurements

For this step, you’ll need your most reliable calculator. All you have to do is add your measurements together. Your buck’s green gross score is the sum of all your measures. But the net score is what counts if you want to put your score in the record books. To find it, subtract any side-to-side differences and the abnormal points.

For instance, if the left G3 number is 4.5 inches and the right G3 number is 5, you should subtract a half inch from the measures. Now that you have the net score, you must wait for the rack to dry for 60 days before recalculating the score to make it official. To determine the final score, you’ll follow the same procedure.

How To Count Points on a Buck: Quick Summary

Let’s quickly summarize the main steps to count the point on a buck:

1. Measure the length of the two major beams.
2. Measure the lengths of each point.
3. Add the four circumference measurements together.
4. Count the spread credit.
5. Subtract the total length of all atypical tines on a typical rack.
6. Subtract the difference between each main beam measurement for the right and left.
7. Subtract the differences in the left and right major points’ measurements.
8. Subtract the difference between each circumference reading.

Bottom Line

As most hunters take down one buck each season, scoring is a process best left to the professionals. A taxidermist, guide, or even a professional wild game processor can assist you in counting your points.

You’ll need a notepad, flexible tape, basic math skills or a calculator to score your prize. If you believe your buck is great enough to break a record and is qualified for a place in the records, send your bid formally by reaching the Boone and Crockett Club. A professional from the club will arrive and record your new score for everyone to see in their book.

FAQ

What counts as a point on a buck?

In hunting, a point on a buck refers to the individual tines of the antlers. A tine has to be at least one inch long and may be quickly counted by assuming that an overwhelming majority of mature whitetail bucks grow a brow tine on each antler and that the main beam tip is counted as one point. Points are typically documented on Column G, which is why hunters often refer to them as G-points. Points include the brow tine, which sticks straight up near the base of the antlers.

How rare is an 8-point buck?

8-point bucks are the most common, making up 50 percent of antlered deer in all mature buck age classes. Is an 8-point that may be average to many hunters your perfect buck? It all depends on the hunter’s preferences and criteria such as hunting pressure, available food, and the age of the buck. Ultimately, the decision of what constitutes a “perfect buck” is subjective and varies from hunter to hunter.

Do you count brow tines in the score?

Brow tines are small antlers that point forward over the deer’s eyes. These are counted for whitetail deer but not for mule deer.

How can you count a buck’s score in the field?

One quick estimation can be made by counting the number of points through your scope or binoculars. A buck that has two standing normal points per side is probably an 8-point buck. If you spot one with three standing points, it is probably a 10-point buck.

Counting deer antler points in the field is a good way to estimate the score, but you’ll need to bag the deer and let its antlers dry for 60 days before you can get an official score.

Related Articles:

When do deer drop their antlers?

Watch Deer Hunting Videos to Improve Your Game

Every Wonder if Deer Mate for Life?

Get Rid of Raccoons at Feeding Stations

Finally! I got my hands on the Benelli M4, more specifically the Benelli M1014, and I couldn’t be more excited to review this world-renowned semi-automatic tactical shotgun.

Today we’re going to be talking about a truly iconic shotgun, that is the Benelli M4 / M1014. This gun is so well known simply by sight it is the “tactical shotgun” everyone thinks about when they think of tactical shotguns.

Popular Culture

It would be a huge disservice considering the Benelli M4 alone has been featured in over 40 movies and TV shows.

The Benelli M Series of shotguns has been featured in hundreds of movies and TV shows through the years.

Some of the most popular movies such as John Wick, Miami Vice, Sabotage, The Walking Dead, and everyone’s new favorite Yellowstone.

These are just a small sample of shows that feature the M4. If you go back to the M1, M2, and M3 you will find your favorite movie among them, I’m certain of it.

Benelli M4 Military Use

I’m going to talk a little bit about the history and get into it makes this weapon so interesting.

The Benelli M4 is in wide military usage across the globe and is one of the few shotguns that was built from the ground up to be a combat shotgun.

Since it was created with the very purpose of being used it combat that makes the gun even more appealing and the design choices Benelli made are extremely interesting and telling.

The United States Marines have used the gun since 1999.

Other countries currently using the Benelli M4 for military use are Isreal, the United Kingdom, Australia, South Korea, and Portugal just to name a few.

These semi-auto shotguns are used from small tactical units right up to infantry fighting units.

They are battle-tested and proven in a number of conflicts across the globe.

This is a very effective weapon and because of the amount of combat action this shotgun has seen, it’s extremely easy to review because we already know that this is a proven combat shotgun that is reliable and durable.

So now all that is left to do is talk about how this shotgun is different from the other shotguns on the market and the features and ergonomics that make this gun so different.

Features and Ergonomics

The features and ergonomics of the Benelli M4 are a huge selling point for this tactical shotgun.

The ergonomics along with the insanely manageable recoil are two things that really make this gun what it is.

Many people don’t come close to a Benelli M4 because it is somewhat expensive but the ones who have used it know that it is truly one of the best tactical shotguns available.

Pistol Grip

I’ll start with one of the most iconic pieces of the gun: the grip.

Many movies have made reference to the grip and it is the easiest way to identify the weapon at a glance.

The grip feels good and large the pistol grip texture is decent on the M1014 it is a polymer grip with lines cut in the polymer to serve as the texture.

I have smaller hands and it still feels good even for a larger grip.

The pistol grip on the M4 really makes this gun shine it’s a combination of a comfortable known feeling of a pistol and the balance of a shotgun all in one.

Trigger

Now that brings us to the trigger, one of the most important parts for companies to get right!

The trigger has only a small amount of play before you hit the wall. With about a 6-7 pound pull and a short crisp reset, the trigger is really nice.

For a shotgun, Benelli has really impressed me with this trigger because it’s very short and crips, and feels great. Considering it’s a combat shotgun built from the ground up the fact they got such a nice trigger in this gun is surprising.

Safety

There’s really only so much you can say or do with a shotgun safety. It’s nothing to write home about.

You can easily toggle the safety one or off and it works well but it’s nothing earth-shattering.

Barrel

Most of the Benelli M4 models feature an 18.5-inch barrel.

The Benelli for your slugs and your buck, anything that you could possibly need to use with it.

There are shorter models of the Benelli M4 that have a 14-inch barrel for CQB and other closer engagements.

I like the 18.5″ barrel due to the fact it can be used for nearly any application with any ammo and be very effective.

The versatility of this gun is fantastic you can hunt with it, skeet shoot, nearly anything you want to do with this shotgun you can. Overall the barrel length in the 18.5″ is great and I like it a lot.

Handguard

Now let us talk about the handguard because while it is a very simple design it’s an extremely important part of the shotgun.

With this handguard, there isn’t much in the way of mounting options so if you are used to an AR-15 and its infinite amount of mounting accessories this might be a slight disappointment to you.

But the simplicity is unbeatable. You can take off both of the plastic handguard pieces are replace them with picatinny or any aftermarket handguard you wish.

But keep in mind this handguard design is combat-proven and changing the handguard or throwing anything on the gun increases the complexity of the gun.

Plus, the gun has such clean lines adding anything to it will really break up the extremely clean look of the M4.

So this handguard works great in my opinion.

One thing to note about this gun is the barrel is thick and the handguard performs just fine but the weapon does heat up when you shoot it and it can heat up fast.

If you shoot 20-25 rounds consecutively you’re going to start feeling some serious heat from the barrel. My recommendation is to make sure you a wearing some thick gloves if you plan to shoot this gun rapidly and consecutively.

Stock

The nice thing about the Benelli M4 is that there are multiple socks out there that you can switch out for.

But considering the stock is iconic I’m not too worried about switching it out.

I really do like the sock on the Benelli M1014. The stock feels good when you shoot. What many people don’t know is most of the stocks on the Benelli M4’s are single position, yes even the skeletonized stocks that look collapsible.

It all boils down to the M4 Recoil Spring Tube Assembly and if it’s cut for multiple position stock adjustment or not.

Overall the stock is exceptional and functions as intended.

Loading/Tubular Magazine

Time to talk about the tubular magazine on the Benelli M4. Surely another iconic piece of the gun.

The magazine tube on this weapon provides a ton of stability for the gun. There are a number of rings holding the magazine tube so that it doesn’t move, bend, or sway. This tubular magazine is definitely not going to be knocked out of place or damage to take this weapon out of service.

The magazine cap on the end of the magazine is very sturdy and durable as well.

Of course, most of us have been spoiled with the AR-15 and even bolt guns with their magazine-fed functionality the magazine tube feels dated at best.

While there are magazine-fed shotguns they don’t have quite the combat-proven appeal that the tubular magazine shotguns have.

Also, the reliability of a shotgun shell in a magazine is not as good as a tubular magazine. At some point though I could see the magazine feed shotgun make the tubular magazine shotguns obsolete.

But as it stands as of this writing the Benelli M4 is the most reliable, durable, and combat-proven shotgun on the market today.

If you’re looking for a purpose-built combat shotgun the Benelli is no slough and definitely should be considered.

Shell Release Lever

We have covered a number of the features of this gun already but one of the most interesting ones is the shell release lever.

This part get’s a little deep and it’s easier to show you than it is to explain in writing so try to stay with me here.

The Benelli M4 features a shell release lever. The lever functions in a way that allows you to stop the next round in the magazine tube from being released and chambered with the gun are either fired or the shell in the chamber is ejected.

So if you have a round loaded into your Benelli M4 until you hit that Shell Release Lever, no more rounds are going to come into the chamber from the magazine tube.

But what would you need that you ask?

First, this is a safety feature built in to stop this semi-auto shotgun from chambering additional rounds. If you need to store this gun in a vehicle and don’t want to keep one in the chamber but want it to remain ready to fire quickly it’s perfect for that scenario.

Second, if you are handing the gun to someone you can unload the chambered shell and then not chamber the next round to hand it to them over an obstacle or a barrier safely and simply

Third, and most importantly, you can easily switch between different types of shotgun shells quickly and in the middle of shooting.

For example, if you have your magazine filled with buckshot and you need to reach further downrange to hit your target you can lock your shell release lever and cycle the chambered round and switch your shotshell out for say… a slug, now you can reach downrange and engage your target at a longer distance.

So as a recap, if I have a round in the chamber, but I need to load the next round for whatever reason I can go ahead and I hit the shell release, I eject out the current round in the chamber, release it, and that will load up the next round.

Now, keep in mind if I’m unloading the weapon and cycle the shells out of the chamber, I flip it around and I’m releasing the shells off manually once those are out, if I try to lock this bolt back, it’s not going to lock back because it will only lock back on an empty chamber once the hammer has dropped.

But to get it to lock back what I can do is, hit the shell release lever, then I can lock that bolt back.

Capacity

Now depending on the version, you get a seven-round tube or a five-round tube with a cap, which is silly. Magazine caps and limits are foolish.

The Benelli M4 can shoot both 2 3/4″ and 3″ shells. The cap in the five-round tube can be removed and if legal to do so I highly recommend it.

It is very easy to switch the magazine tube to get the 2 round limit out of the Benelli M4, to achieve the seven-plus one magazine. But it may cost a little money. You also need to be aware of 922(r).

What’s 922(r)? It’s a federal law that prohibits Benelli from importing this gun with a 7 round capacity. You can learn more about it by watching this video.

You can actually get seven plus two if you have the 7 round tube. Let us talk about ghost loading.

Ghost Loading/Carrier Loading

So what is Ghost loading? Ghosting loading is getting your Benelli M4 to a nine-shell capacity.

Here is how you ghost load:

1. Pull that back until the shell carrier doesn’t lift
2. Then drop the shell that was in the chamber into the shell carrier
3. Then you place your second shell into the Chamber
4. Ride that bolt forward
5. Go ahead and shoot

If you would like to see it in person watch flannel daddy (aka Travis Haley’s son) explain and show you the Ghost loading technique.

Operating System

One of the major components of the Benelli M4 is its gas system and simple and easy it is to take down.

The gas system is called the ARGO, which stands for auto regulating gas-operated.

A.R.G.O.Benelli’s patented Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated (A.R.G.O.) system is a simple, self-cleaning, piston-driven action.

The gas system is also what makes the gun shoot clean to the point you almost don’t have to clean the weapon.

Because of the ARGO’s gas systems self-cleaning ability there have been documented instances of M4’s going 20,000+ rounds with no cleaning and no issues.

Assembly/Disassembly

Assembly and disassembly of the Benelli M4 is extremely simple.

To disassemble the M4 you start by unscrewing the cap right that holds the barrel on.

Once that is off you can easily pull the Benelli M1014 apart.

This is one of the appeals of the M4 because it is extremely field-friendly, it’s very easy to replace the barrel and operating system assemblies for a shorter one. So if I needed the 14-inch entry model, it’d be very easy to pull off the 18.5″ barrel and put on a whole new barrel.

Underneath the handguards is the ARGO system. The ARGO system has two operating rods that are piston-driven and impinge upon the bolt carrier group and cycle it.

The ARGO system is a very simple and reliable system and the best part is it works with nearly any shotgun round, from slugs to buckshot to lighter rounds like birdshot.

The A in ARGO stands for auto-regulate so no need to adjust the gas system depending on your shotgun shell.

Sights

Let us talk about the sights on the Benelli M4, probably one of the most important things on the gun.

The sights that come stock on the Benelli M4 are quite good. The front sight has a simple white dot and wings on either side to protect it.

The wings on the front sight are a nice touch are clearly there to protect the front sight so it doesn’t get knocked around or damaged.

Moving back to the rear sight which features an extremely simple ghost ring setup.

The ghost ring sight is fully adjustable and is fantastic to use. The sight picture is great and overall it’s hard to beat.

The stock sights are awesome. But most people who pay for a Benelli M4 are going to put an optic on it of some kind. It just makes sense and really completes the gun overall.

Finish

Time to talk about the finish on the Benelli M1014.

All of the aluminum parts are anodized with a tough mil-spec phosphate coating.

The coating is extremely resistant to rust and corrosion but if you happen to need just a little extra Benelli does offer an H2O model.

You never hear much about people having trouble with their Benelli coating so I feel you can rely on this phosphate coating to last.

The finish is a matte finish with almost no glossy parts on the M4 at all, which I personally love for a few reasons.

Less chance of someone seeing a reflection if you are using this in combat or self-defense and matte finishes just seem to hold up better.

Benelli M4 Accessories

Naturally with any gun, you’ll want to accessorize it to make it your own. The old adage there are many of these guns but this is my gun doesn’t really hit home until you add your own flair.

So what is available? I’m glad you asked!

Benelli M4 Bag

If you are looking for a great case for your Benelli M4 Lynx Defense has you covered with the Gigabyte shotgun case.

The Gigabyte is the best soft case for the Benelli M4 and has tons of padding and weapon retention.

If you don’t need a hard case the Gigabyte is the hands-down best carry case for your Benelli M4.

Optics

The nice thing about the M4 is it comes standard with a 1931 picatinny rail on top of the gun so nearly any AR-15 optic or red dot sight will work.

But! There are some other interesting options and spins you can take let’s dive in.

Trijicon RMR

Using the Scalarworks SYNC you can easily mount a Trijicon RMR to your Benelli M1014.

The Scalarworks mounting system replaces the existing Picatinny rail system and adds an optic mounting plate for the RMR, much like you would see on a red dot-ready pistol slide.

Aimpoint T-2 or Comp M5 or T-1

You can also buy a Scalarworks Sync/02 for the Aimpoint T-2, Comp M5, or Aimpoint T-1.

The nice part about the Sync mount is you can co-witness the iron sights with the Aimpoint T-1 or T-2.

EOTech HWS

The EOTech HWS will affix directly to the top rail and you will see almost every Benelli M4 feature these optics.

Why?

Because they work and a rock-solid in design and look great on the M4. Not to mention they are nearly perfect for a shotgun. The design of EOTech’s holograph reticle is the perfect circle shotgun pattern.

You can check out our full review on the EOTech HWS.

Flashlights

One of the best ways to mount a flashlight to the Benelli MR is to use the Multi Light Benelli M4 Scout Mount.

It is made by Impact Weapons Components and works great. You can it up from Brownells and a number of other retailers.

The Impact Weapon Scout Mount allows you to directly mount any Surefire, Streamlight, or other weapon light you choose.

Personally, I wouldn’t mount any pressure switches since you would have to do some serious custom work to make that work and would just use the push button activation caps.

Shooting the Benelli M1014

One of the nicest things about the Benelli M4 is shooting it. The A.R.G.O. system works incredibly well and a lot of the recoil is absorbed because of the gas system.

This is one of the major selling points of the Benelli M4 and it does do its job in mitigating recoil.

Ammo Options

Shotgun shells are one of the most prolific rounds available and with that comes a ton of options and possibilities. Let us talk about the three main loads you are likely to use in the Benelli M4.

Good Slug for Benelli M4

There are a ton of great slug options for the Benelli M4. Slugs have gotten rather expensive in the world of ammo in 2022.

However, if you are looking for range rounds that won’t break the back the low recoil Fiocchi 12 Gauge – 2-3/4″ Rifled Slug rounds are probably your best bet.

Good Buckshot for Benelli M4

Buckshot has tons of different options due to its popularity in the hunting space. But when it comes to the M4 it feels like it needs a tactical buckshot load.

So for this, I’d have to recommend the Black Aces 00 Buckshot to feed in your Benelli M4.

Final Thoughts

Without a doubt, I think the Benelli M4 is the go-to combat shotgun.

It’s probably the best one out there currently. There are other shotguns that are giving the M4 a run for its money, namely the Beretta 1301.

But the Benelli M4 still holds the gold medal in terms of durability, reliability, and finish resistance.

Many other options are better than the M4 but it still has its place and purpose and still is incredibly reliable.

The M4’s biggest limitation is the fact it’s a shotgun and it has all the same limitations regular shotguns have. But for something close range and one the ability to absolutely destroy targets at close range you can’t beat a 12 gauge shotgun.

Final thought, the Benelli M4 is a fantastic combat-capable shotgun that looks great and performs great and not only is it one of the best shotguns on the market but it’s one of the best shotguns for home defense.

FAQ

I posed the following, seemingly simple question to the members of my Upland Journal Forums, and to hardcore bird hunters, weekend warriors, dog trainers, upland guides, field trialers, breeders, and sporting lodge owners: What is your chosen ruffed grouse hunting dog breed, what is it that you most like about them, and why have you stuck with them?

The answers were anything but simple. The truth is there is no best single breed of dog for hunting ruffed grouse. This has become clear to me after four decades of hunting grouse over most of the flushing and pointing breeds.

Unless someone is irrevocably breed blind, most bird dog people will readily agree. I was pleasantly surprised at how gracious those who contributed to my research were when discussing hunting dogs, even dog breeds that were not the ones they chose to run. Dog guys like dogs.

One thing that is completely agreed upon is that good breeding and diligent training are essential, but those characteristics can only go so far in developing the dog as a grouse dog.

Serious grouse hunters believe that bird contacts are paramount to developing a grouse dog, particularly in breeds that point. The grouse themselves teach the dogs how to handle grouse. Dogs just have to see a load of ruffed grouse — hundreds of them — before graduating from a bird dog to a “legit grouse dog.” Some dogs never get to wear the cap and tassel, some become good, and very few become great.

Why is that the case? Because ruffed grouse are arguably the hardest game bird for any dog to handle, and without question one of the most challenging for the wing shooter. There are a tremendous number of variables and preferences and expectations that impact the choosing and settling on a breed for ruffed grouse hunting.

Not all of the variables have to do with grouse. Some are directly related to a particular dog owner’s personality, or where they reside, or the time they have to hunt, and the type of grouse cover they typically hunt.

Will the dog be hunting small micro covers, or huge expansive cutovers? Will it be trained for field trials as well as hunting? Will it stay in the house and sleep on the bed? Will it perform double duty as a waterfowl dog? Will it shed like the dickens? The list is endless.

For some it’s basically the breed dear old dad always had, or a breed a person read about, or hunted over, or in many instances just plain liked the looks of.

In this article I’ll concentrate on two popular flushing breeds and three pointing breeds, and why people prefer these dogs for hunting ruffed grouse. This is in no way a poor reflection on other breeds. Remember what I said: There is no best grouse dog breed.

ENGLISH COCKERS: Big Hunt In A Small Package

There is little doubt that Field Bred English Cocker Spaniels or FBECS’s have experienced an upsurge in popularity for upland bird hunting. These little bird-seeking missiles are not to be confused with American Cocker Spaniels, which are bred for looks and as pets. And FBECS’s are not just small field-bred English Springer Spaniels (the springer, by the way, is my personal breed of choice). Do not make the mistake of muttering such a thing in a room of spaniel enthusiasts. They may have been separated by size centuries ago, but have developed their own unique personalities, yet retained all the best characteristics.

This flushing dog weighs in as small as 20 pounds and upwards of 35 pounds for a large male, and come in a variety of colors. I spoke to the owner of a guiding operation in northern Maine, who runs both FBEC’s and English Pointers, and he described them as having the heart of a big dog and the cuddle of a lapdog.

He not only uses them for hunting ruffed grouse, but also as non-slip retrievers with his pointers, where they flush and retrieve ahead of a point. Another friend of mine owns a well known Orvis-endorsed hunting and fishing operation in Maine. His personal dogs, which he hunts and guides with, are FBEC’s. Most of his guides run pointing breeds. Pointing dogs are traditional for grouse so most clients request hunting over them. But according to him, at the end of the day when the bragging begins, the cockers do as well if not better in finding birds and providing shots on grouse.

Owners of FBECS’s gush over their little charges. They love the dogs’ temperaments, house manners, trainability, and their remarkably manageable size.

That’s all well and good but can they handle and produce ruffed grouse for the average bird hunter? You bet they can. The consensus from those I spoke with is they are the right dog to hunt in poor scenting conditions, such as hot and windy days — situations that can compromise other dogs. They burrow intro the thick of cover, work close, roust out grouse to the gun, and retrieve crisply to hand. They are just plain fun to be around, and they can sit on your lap and lick your face on the drive home. What more can a bird hunter ask of a grouse dog?

LABRADOR RETRIEVERS: A Model For Every Grouse Hunter

Labrador Retrievers remind me of the venerable 12-gauge shotgun. They can do it all. The Lab has really made its mark in the ruffed grouse woods, and those running them never feel under gunned.

Although there are breed lines of pointing Labs, I’m focusing on flushing retrievers. They are hard to beat when you include their perpetually positive attitude and enthusiasm. These workhorses come in variety of sizes, depending on the breeding — from huge, block-headed, otter-tailed, cattail busters to smaller, more agile, and athletic dogs — which are increasingly popular with grouse hunters. They are black, chocolate or yellow and despite some opinions, all can make great hunters. Their wonderful personalities have made them a choice as pets for non-hunters, so always seek out a hunting line of Labs if you want one to team up with you to hunt grouse.

If properly trained they simply produce bird after bird for the gun and, being the consummate retriever, are unmatched in finding cripples and bringing any bird to hand.

Lab owners are extremely loyal to their breed, like their dogs are to them. They point out the unparalleled trust and teamwork they experience while hunting with their Labs. A particularly successful grouse hunter from Michigan I spoke with, who champions the smaller, more agile 50-pound Labs for grouse, expressed that a well bred Labrador is smart, easy to train, and can bounce back from training mistakes. Known for their overall durability, they can hunt in all conditions and cover types. When these grouse hunters empty the birds from their vests at the end of a hunt, the reason for running their labs for ruffed grouse is plain to see.

ENGLISH SETTERS: Grace And Beauty In The Woods

There is no question the English Setter is the quintessential and traditional grouse hunting dog. The sheer volume of responses I received from ES lovers proved that point.

This breed has gotten a load of ink in most classic grouse hunting literature, and is well represented in sporting art, for good reason. For a pointing dog they are the whole package of beauty, elegance, temperament and — best of all — they work on ruffed grouse.

Setters generally come in two types: Ryman and Llewellyn. The Ryman being a larger, closer working, and more methodical birddog that foot hunters prefer. Llewellyn’s are a smaller, faster bird-finding machine that hardcore hunters and field trailers gravitate to.

Regardless of type, they all share a gentle nature and picture perfect looks, as well as a good nose. Some of my Setter friends and contacts readily admit they prefer a slightly slower-moving dog that they can see and enjoy as it weaves through a fall cover, with the tinkling of a bell only adding to the experience. They live for the feathery classic point, and shooting at a bird is an afterthought.

Others want a firecracker that sizzles through the woods, reaching way out in search of birds, with the distant staccato beep from a collar signaling a point. After a location is found on the GPS receiver, they head into the cover and like to be rewarded with an opportunity for a shot. This is a breed that can fit differing personalities.

I’ve heard more legends of English Setters being good or great grouse dogs than any other breed. That might be a product of their popularity, or it might be why they are so popular. It doesn’t matter: they are a proven breed for grouse hunting and look damn stylish doing it. I heard from a fair share of earnest grouse hunters who experimented with a lot of dog breeds until they found their nirvana with English Setters.

GERMAN SHORTHAIRED POINTER: Bulletproof And Versatile

I have many friends and acquaintances who run GSP’s. That should say something about their popularity and effectiveness on grouse, given we live smack dab in ruffed grouse country.

And I had the pleasure of hunting over a particularly good one. I was impressed by this dog’s no-nonsense, workmanlike hunting style. He knew how to handle and point the skittish, if not schizoid, ruffed grouse found in mid-Maine, without a lot of showing off or fanfare. I think this is true of most dogs of this versatile breed.

That dog is over the rainbow bridge but the owner is now feeding two more GSP’s. I asked him why he sticks with them. He made the analogy that GSP’s are the Toyota Tacoma of the grouse hunting breeds. They are tough, dependable, and rarely break down. GSP owners relish the strength and durability and easy maintenance of their dogs, along with their ability to chill out in the house, but turn it on in the woods. Being a short-haired breed, little if any time needs to be wasted combing out burrs on the tailgate, leaving more time to hit the next cover.

I received input from a gentleman who runs a popular birddog website who hunts his shorthairs in a multiple of states and Canadian provinces. He expressed how his dogs consistently hunt at a comfortable range for the foot hunter, are staunch on a pinned grouse, but naturally relocate until they crack into a solid point when they hit the scent cone. A plus is they are largely natural retrievers, so few birds are lost. Versatile is the operative word; when not pointing grouse they can take on part-time work in a boat or blind retrieving waterfowl, and are handsome to boot.

BRITTANYS: The Whole Package In A Compact Size

These medium-sized, hard-working pointing dogs are rumored to have originated as poachers’ dogs, and are termed by some as “meat dogs.”

There’s nothing derogatory about that as far as I’m concerned, since despite all the aesthetics prevalent in grouse hunting lore, ultimately we are trying to add protein to our game vest.

This breed was originally dubbed a spaniel but the “spaniel” was officially removed in 1982. You have two choices of field stock Britts: American or French Brittany. Generally the American Britt is larger, lankier, and a bigger runner by design. The French Britt is more compact and generally a tighter worker. But despite “spaniel” being dropped from their name, both types have the merry, exuberant and biddable personality of a spaniel, with the point and the retrieve built in.

Britt owners I spoke with were a pragmatic group who weren’t enamored with classic high-tailed points (which is a good thing since Britts tails are docked). Britt owners appreciated the work ethic, nose and tenacity of their dogs.

A very good friend of mine who passed away a few years back adored his Brittanys, and I’ve never seen a closer bond than he had with his dogs. I had the privilege of grouse hunting with him in the states and in Canada. He was a solitary fellow, and when we met back at the truck, there was always a gleam in his eye, a grouse or two in hand, and of course a Britt by his side. If I get a pointing dog to add to my arsenal, it would likely be a Brittany.

You can’t go wrong with any of the breeds covered here if the dog is well bred, trained to your needs and expectations, and you put the dog on a load of grouse. Finding your breed for hunting ruffed grouse is like finding a spouse. There are matches made in heaven, but also mismatches. The trick is to date and play the field until you fall in love, and know when to throw in the towel and try another breed that fits you best.

Ultimately, at the end of the hunt, the measure of a grouse dog could be as simple as whether you enjoyed hunting with it, not how high a pile of feathers you’ve built by the end of a season.

Best Men’s Winter Gloves

Carhartt Waterproof Insulated

Material: Polyester | Touchscreen Compatible: No

If you’re looking for classic, reliable, and easy-to-wear winter options, we recommend the Carhartt Waterproof Insulated. Their functional construction and flexible polyester material make them dexterous despite their bulk. All that insulation keeps your hands toasty. One of our testers wore them in temperatures as low as -20° F while collecting glacial data in the Yukon. After that, it’s easy to recommend them for shoveling the walk or walking the dog. It doesn’t hurt that they block wind, and the main body is waterproof.

While the outer shell does repel water effectively, its cozy fleece cuff does not. When it gets wet, moisture creeps up the liner and inside. You can protect the cuff with the sleeve of a jacket, but that doesn’t work in a snowball fight. Sweat can build up in them as well. Once wet, they often take more than a day to dry. While they move well, their slippery fabric and bulky insulation make it difficult to complete detailed tasks, like tying your shoelaces. Though imperfect, these are the best winter gloves we’ve tested for daily use.

Best Women’s Winter Gloves

Carhartt Quilts Insulated

Material: Polyester | Touchscreen Compatible: No

The Carhartt Quilts Insulated women’s winter gloves are almost as warm and water-resistant as the men’s, making them a good option for anyone with smaller hands. They’re soft against the skin and well insulated, with quilted polyester insulation and fleece lining. Though not technically waterproof, they repel water and block wind completely. Straps that tighten at the wrists hold them in place, and a tab that extends from the thick synthetic palms makes them easy to pull on.

While Carhartt doesn’t claim these are waterproof, they hold their own in wet weather. During a submersion test, water only snuck through one seam just before the two-minute mark. The cozy fleece lining is a weak point, though. It holds onto moisture, which can sneak in from the cuff. They take up to two days to dry. The fingers are short and bulky, and the fabric is slick, making it hard to perform detailed tasks. And a few loose stitches from the start have us questioning their durability. Still, they’re reasonably priced for hands looking to shovel, pull sleds, and make snowballs.

Best Ski Glove for Men

Arc’teryx Fission SV

Material: Nylon, polyester, goat leather, Gore-Tex | Touchscreen Compatible: No

Since they’re meant to be worn for days at a time, the best skiing and snowboarding gloves are warmer, more technical, and pricier than most winter-generic options. The Arc’teryx Fission SVs are the best we’ve tested. The tough, synthetic shell is reinforced with a double layer of goat leather, while a Gore-Tex membrane insert keeps your hands dry. The combination shuts out cold, wet, or windy weather. We’re also impressed with how well they hold up. It took 150 days of use to see wear on the leather palms and fingers, which is far better than the competition. They’re also warm and breathable, keeping your hands toasty and dry. Despite the generous layer of insulation, they’re very dexterous and keep our hands useful in the snow.

The Fission SVs do run large. They’re wide and lack an adjustable wrist strap to tighten and hold them in place. They’re also expensive. Since they work well for a range of outdoor pursuits, you’re likely to get your money’s worth. If you’ll be out for hours or days in brutal winter conditions, these are the best gloves we recommend.

Read more: Arc’teryx Fission SV review

Best Ski Glove for Women

Arc’teryx Fission SV Glove

Material: Nylon, Polyester, Goat leather, Gore-Tex | Touchscreen Compatible: No

These technical snowboarding and skiing pair are the favorite of both our men’s and our women’s testing teams. The Arc’teryx Fission SV is a unisex option with a synthetic shell reinforced with two layers of goat leather. They’re tough and durable, barely showing any wear after months of intensive use. The Gore-Tex membrane kept our hands dry in even the most trying conditions, day after day while remaining breathable and avoiding sweaty hand moisture build-up. Though they’re not touchscreen compatible, these warmly insulated gloves are still surprisingly dextrous.

However, these genderless handwear run a bit large and are best on wider hands. They also don’t have an adjustable wrist strap, which can be a dealbreaker for some women. They’re also some of the most expensive ones we’ve tested, though their functionality ensures we wore them through pretty much every winter endeavor, getting the full range of use out of this investment. Ultimately, we’re big fans of these and recommend them to anyone looking to get outside without getting cold hands.

Read more: Arc’teryx Fission SV – Women’s review

Best Overall Women’s Ski Mittens

Black Diamond Mercury Mitt – Women’s

Material: Leather, Pertex nylon, waterproof BD.dry | Touchscreen Compatible: No

If you have trouble keeping your hands warm, mittens may be for you. The Black Diamond Mercury Mitts are our favorites. They’re double layered, with an insulated, fleece-lined insert (the warm and quick drying Primaloft Gold if you’re interested) and a durable shell. The outer layer features a water-repellant shell, waterproof insert, and large gauntlet cuff that overlaps your jacket sleeve to form a weatherproof seal. These mittens breathe well, and the removal liners dry quickly if you’re hands go clammy at the top of a steep drop. They’re also durable. Some of our testers have worn them for years. Despite braving some seriously frigid climates, we haven’t found a cold they couldn’t handle.

Mittens keep your hands warmer than gloves by letting your fingers huddle together, but they sacrifice dexterity. We have to remove these mitts to do much of anything with our hands, and it would be nice if they had leashes so they weren’t so easy to drop in the snow. When it’s really cold, we like to pair a thinner liner underneath and then pull these mittens on for serious weather protection. We love them for frozen days and any time we’re worried about keeping our hands warm.

Read more: Black Diamond Mercury Mitt – Women’s review

Best Men’s Ski Mitten

Black Diamond Mercury Mitt

Material: Leather, Pertex nylon, waterproof BD.dry | Touchscreen Compatible: No

Black Diamond also makes a men’s version of the Mercury Mitt. The only difference between them is that the men’s version runs larger. Our men’s and women’s test teams can’t say enough about the warmth and weatherproofing of this two-layer mitten. The puffy, fleece-lined inner mitt holds warmth, while the waterproof shell keeps the weather out with a large gauntlet cuff. They’re also well-built, featuring a goat leather palm, overlapping layers, and a handy patch for wiping your nose. They proved durable for long cold winter days.

The downside to mittens is that they make it hard to use your hands. The Mercury Mitt proved to be one of the least maneuverable ski or snowboard gloves or mittens in the lineup. It’s often hard to complete basic tasks like zipping a jacket or working small buckles while wearing them. As a result, we often take them off and wish they had a leash to help us keep track of them. As long as you can deal with having to expose your hands to the elements from time to time, these mittens can’t be beaten when it comes to warmth.

Read more: Black Diamond Mercury Mitt review

Best Value Men’s Ski Glove

Gordini GTX Storm Trooper II

Material: Polyester, Gore-Tex, synthetic leather | Touchscreen Compatible: No

Gordini has been making a version of the GTX Storm Trooper IIs for a long time, and they’ve consistently offered exceptional value. They never fail to impress our testers with how much warmth and weather protection they offer at a significantly lower price than the competition. Our hands consistently stay dry and content in these. Solid construction also means that they’re durable enough to last multiple seasons for even our most dedicated ski testers — industry pros who are on the hill well over 100 days a season.

These aren’t the warmest option we’ve tested, though. They aren’t our top recommendation for bitterly cold days when only the die-hard folks brave the elements. They’re also unwieldy, with insulation stacked at the fingertips, making it hard to complete simple tasks like handling a zipper or buckle. Note: We tested these just before the company simplified the name to Gordini GTX Storm Glove. The changes are largely cosmetic, and we’ll direct you to the newer version. They’re the option we recommend to anyone looking for excellent performance on a budget.

Read more: Gordini GTX Storm Trooper II review

Best Value Ski Mitten for Women

Burton Gore-Tex Mitten – Women’s

Material: Recycled polyester, polyester, Gore-Tex | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

The affordable women’s Burton Gore-Tex Mittens are impressively warm and easy to wear. Combining a lightweight liner and a waterproof mitten shell, they give you the best of both worlds. The liners (like actual gloves with separate fingers) are touchscreen compatible, making it easy to use your phone without exposing your hands to wind and weather. The outer mitten shell is surprisingly nimble as well. It’s also well-insulated and decently warm. The durable palm stands up to a fair bit of abuse, and the price is hard to beat.

These mittens aren’t the warmest we’ve tested. The shell material feels less durable than some of the higher-priced options, and the fabric does eventually saturate when exposed to wet weather. The inner waterproof liner keeps your hands protected, but you do end up with a soggy outer layer. Still, if you’re looking for a bargain, these mittens are an excellent option. If you’re not into mitts and want a good deal on a women’s glove, check out the Dakine Camino.

Read more: Burton Gore-Tex Mitten – Women’s review

Best Liner Glove

Achiou Touch Screen Thermal

Material: Acrylic, polyester | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

Liners are great on their own in mild weather and do a lot to improve the warmth rating of a winter pair when layered underneath. Lightweight, soft, and impressively warm, the Achiou Touch Screen Thermals are an excellent example. They balance insulating your hand, blocking wind surprisingly well, and letting moisture and sweat escape. If the Achious do get wet, they dry quickly. Touchscreen-compatible patches on the thumb, pointer, and middle fingers let you use your devices without exposing your fingers to the cold.

On the downside, you have to wash these by hand. And we don’t love their fit. The cuffs are short and often disappear beneath your outer mitt when worn as a liner. The thumbs are long, making their touchscreen patches less effective than those on your fingers, which work wonderfully. All told, if you’re looking for durable, affordable liners, these are our picks.

Best Unisex Work Glove

Mechanix Wear Coldwork Original

Material: Rubber, fleece, softshell | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

The Mechanix Coldwork Originals are the best work options we tested. Meant for cool to cold weather, they have a lightweight fleece lining with a durable softshell and rubber exterior. They breathe well, which is great for warmer days, and our lead tester found them comfortable for small engine repair down into the teens and twenties. They’re machine washable and work well for a range of activities, from raking leaves to shoveling. All five fingers are touchscreen compatible, making it exceptionally easy to check the instructions on your phone for whatever YouTube project you have going. They also moved so well that we rarely needed to pull them off to complete a detailed task.

Since they’re insulated, these aren’t the best for warm fall days. They’re also not waterproof, are slow to dry, and aren’t warm enough for extremely low temperatures. Though the size small Mechanix fits our women testers with size small hands, the fingers are a touch long. If they are too big for you, we’d recommend checking out the Wells Lamont Hydrahide women’s option. If they do fit you, though, we highly recommend the Mechanix for detailed tasks in mild to chilly weather.

Best Mountain Bike Gloves for Men

Giro Xen

Material: Polyester, rubber, polyethylene | Touchscreen Compatible: Yes

Light and breathable with a dialed fit and precise padding, the Xen is a top-notch choice for biking. Mesh panels keep your hands from overheating, and supple palm fabric provides excellent feedback from the handlebars and the trail. Padding across the knuckles and wrapping around the outside edge of both hands kept our skin intact when we grazed a few rocks and trees during testing. Giro claims that their product engineering process results in a Superfit. We have to agree. With a velcro wrist tab that effectively snugs them around your hand, these fit to a T. The touchscreen-compatible thumb, pointer, and middle finger keep you connected.

Our only concern with the Xens is how long they’ll last. They arrived out of the box with frayed seams, their construction is relatively lightweight, and the wrist closure is not as robust as we’d like. That said, they stood up during our tests, including a few light impacts. All told, these perform well for a range of riders and styles, from downhill laps to long, aggressive trails. They’re the ones we tell our friends about. There’s also a women’s version, the Xena, that we expect would deliver the same outsized performance in smaller sizes.

Best Unisex Climbing Glove

Petzl Cordex

Material: Goat leather, nylon | Touchscreen Compatible: No

The Petzl Cordex are the best climbing gloves we’ve tested for a day of belaying. Combining a sturdy leather palm with a breathable synthetic backing, they manage to maximize palm protection, durability, and comfort simultaneously. Well-placed leather reinforcements increase durability and provide additional padding. We especially appreciate the extra leather on the thumbs and index fingers, taking the edge off a day of rope wrangling, belaying, and rappelling. The nylon baking keeps them lightweight and makes them our favorite option for hot days when a full leather day would mean sweating hands and potential blisters.

The leather surface doesn’t grip as well as we’d like, and this isn’t our favorite for long belays. The fit isn’t precise either, making it harder to handle carabiners and perform other detailed tasks than we’d like. We still consider them dexterous, just not the best we’ve seen. We love this option for its cooling comfort on hot days and the extra padding in its tough and supple leather palms. It’s our favorite option for causal craig belays.

Best Crack Climbing Gloves

Ocun Crack Glove

Material: Synthetic, rubber | Touchscreen Compatible: No

If you need to protect your hands for crack climbing but are sick of taping up, crack gloves are an excellent alternative. The Ocuns are our favorites. Their thoughtful construction balances durability and hand protection with enough sensitivity for precise placements. We put in a few thousand feet in these on both rock and plastic splitters and struggled to find flaws. Most crack climbing mitts we’ve tested felt either incredibly durable but too bulky or thin and flimsy. Despite the Ocun’s slim profile, they provide plenty of padding and hold up under steady abuse.

The Ocuns run small. Our testers ordered one size up, and we suggest that you do the same. Aside from that, the only issue we have with these is their wrist closure strap, which can be hard to secure. Once you get it to hold, the excess strap tucks behind the backing and out of the way. They’re not cheap, but after hundreds of pitches, they still deliver unrivaled performance.

Why You Should Trust Us

We’ve tested close to 200 pairs of gloves over the past 11 years to bring you this review and carefully researched even more before deciding which ones we should buy and test. We sent our winter test teams out into the cold and up into the mountains, handed our garden and work testers shovels, banished our mountain bike test team to the single track, and climbed and belayed our way to glove guru status. We took detailed notes and photos along the way, documenting each model’s performance in the real world before taking them back to the lab for repeatable tests.

We assess each product’s performance in key metrics like:

• Fit and Dexterity

• Warmth

• Water Resistance

• Durability and Protection

• Breathability

• Features

We tested winter and work gloves in Maine, Canada, and Alaska, tackling daily chores, winter runs, small engine repair, and glacial research. Lead tester Clark Tate has lived in every major mountain range in the US and likes warm hands. So do Amber King, who moved from Canada to Colorado’s San Juan Mountains, and ski patroller, Jackie Kearney. Amber and Jackie test and review women’s ski gloves. IMGA Mountain and Exum Ski Guide, Jeff Dobronyi, heads the men’s ski glove review. He spends over 120 days a year on his skis and needs handwear that can keep up.

Bike racer, Jeremy Benson, and bicycle product developer, Zach Wick, tested the men’s mountain bike gloves. Longtime riders, Pat Donahue and Annie Clark, teamed up to test the women’s mountain bike gloves. Both organize their lives around singletrack, and Pat has worked in the bicycle industry for eight years. Chris McNamara and Steven Tata tackled the climbing glove review. Between them, they’ve climbed El Cap 80 times (70 and 10 times, respectively). We tend to trust their judgment on all things climbing.

Decide When and Where You’ll Wear Them

We’ve established that you need a pair of gloves, but what do you need them for? Make sure you consider all the tasks you’d like to tackle while wearing them, and think about what type of weather and conditions you’re likely to encounter. Then we’ll walk you through how to find the right pair for your unique needs.

Decide How Much You Can Spend

Another important factor to consider is your budget. It’s important to decide how much you can afford upfront so you won’t be wooed by the flashiest options available. There’s often a sweet spot where you get nearly top-of-the-line performance without spending top dollar. We make it our mission to find those options and steer you to them.

What Type of Glove is Right for You?

There are three general glove types – 1) cold weather or winter versions that are meant to keep your hands warm, 2) garden or work pairs that protect your hands from dirt, abrasions, and blisters, and 3) sport options that are built to protect your mitts during a specific activity like skiing, rock climbing, or mountain biking.

These categories overlap, but the boom in outdoor recreation has led to more specialized options over the years. This is great for your hands but can be hard on your wallet. Wherever possible, we point out where any given pair can pull double or triple duty.

Winter Gloves

The most basic purpose of these is to protect your hands; often, this means keeping them warm. Since winter temperatures vary widely across the globe and winter activities vary widely across individuals, this is a broad category, varying from classic waterproof snow gloves to mittens to light liners. We’ll break these down below.

Single vs. Double Gloves — Single gloves have only one layer. Double versions have two; an outer shell and an inner liner. You can pull off the shell to reveal the thinner, more flexible liner when you need to perform detailed tasks without completely exposing your hands to the elements. This gives you the benefit of a weather-protective layer without having to deal with the bulk of one when you need to check your phone or tie a shoe. Double gloves are nearly essential in seriously cold climates where frostbite is a frequent concern.

Liners — If you do opt for an unlined or single winter glove, you can always buy a separate liner and layer the two. Just make sure that the combination isn’t tight enough to restrict blood flow since blood brings warmth to your extremities. Liners are also a great stand-alone option for shoulder seasons. Often lightweight and stretchy, they can work wonderfully for high-output activities like running or cross-country skiing.

Gloves vs. Mittens vs. Lobster Claws — The great thing about mittens is that they keep all your fingers in the same compartment, allowing them to share heat. The downside is that then your fingers aren’t available to use. You can solve this problem by adding a liner in super cold weather. Keep your digits cozy in the mitten when you don’t need to use them, and deploy your liner-gloved hand when you do.

Another option is to buy a lobster claw, which divides the mittens into two sections, one for your pointer finger or pointer and middle fingers, and one for the rest. These really shine while biking in the winter months, when you need to keep a few fingers on the break but can use all the warmth you can get.

Garden and Work Gloves

Garden and work options protect your hands from detritus and damage. Rough surfaces, rocks, and wood can abrade your hands or splinter. Tools can quickly cause blisters. A well-fitting pair can protect you from this pain and keep you working longer. Whether or not these are also insulated depends on the time of year they’re meant to be used.

Winter versions of work and garden gloves will have some level of insulation; a few are also waterproof. The tradeoff is that insulation is bulky, making it harder to get work done. Those meant for warmer weather will be lighter, thinner, and more dextrous. They will also provide protection from the sun and will, hopefully, breathe well. You can layer liners underneath these to extend their use into the colder months.

Sport Gloves

These are built specifically for the task at hand. In this review, we cover skiing/snowboarding, climbing, and mountain biking gloves. Ski options are waterproof and insulated, as a matter of course. Climbing and mountain biking versions can be used in a wider range of temperatures and thus vary in warmth and breathability. What they all have in common is that they’re meant to keep your hands healthy when you head out to the wild. Here are some things to keep in mind while searching for your perfect pair.

Ski Gloves

Winter gloves can be used to keep your hands warm while walking from the car to the office. Ski gloves are tasked with keeping your hands dry and warm for a full day, often while spending half of it sitting very still on a chair lift. That’s why they are almost always heavily insulated and waterproof. They also often include additional features like nose wipe patches and large gauntlet cuffs meant to extend over your jacket sleeve to help keep the snow out.

If you are using yours in the backcountry, hiking your way up the mountain before skiing back down, it’s a good idea to take two pairs with you for safety. One can be lighter weight and more breathable for the climb. Or you can wear a pair of liners for the sweatier part of your day.

Climbing Gloves

Few climbers wear gloves while they’re climbing a rock face. Instead, the best climbing gloves give your hands a break when you’re handling rope while belaying and repelling. As such, they have to be flexible enough to function just as well as your bare hands, and they have to grip the rope well. Leather palms often last longer, but synthetic options are more breathable, which is great for hot weather. Our favorite options combine the best of both worlds.

Crack climbing is a different story. Traditional climbers have long taped the backs of their hands before wedging them into rock clefts to heft their bodies up a mountainside. Dedicated crack climbing gloves have since become popular.

Some die-hards still swear by the feel and function of tape or by the flawless technique that makes them unnecessary. Others enjoy that modern crack gloves are made of tacky rubber and work a lot like climbing shoes to improve friction while saving you from paying for every mistake in blood. The best crack climbing gloves are tough enough to be durable and protective without being so bulky that they make it hard to fit your hand in smaller spaces.

Mountain Biking Gloves

Mountain bike gloves protect your hands if you crash or glance a tree branch or rock while riding. More conservative or confident riders may opt for a lightweight model with only fabric and a bit of leather between them and the dirt. Aggressive or crash-prone riding styles and dedicated downhill trails demand more protective elements with integrated gel, foam, or rubber padding.

You’ll also want an excellent grip to make sure you have solid contact with the handlebars and breaks. If you are riding in cold, wet weather, you may want waterproof versions with light insulation. If you ride in the summer, look for options that breathe well.

How Will You Need to Use Your Hands?

You’ll also need to consider what you’ll need to use your hands for and whether the pair you’re interested in is capable of the task. For example, winter mittens are warm but make it difficult to complete complex tasks like transitioning from skinning uphill to skiing down in the backcountry. A well-fitted, highly dexterous model will let your hands move more naturally, and you’ll have to remove it less frequently throughout the day. Other aspects to consider are grip, durability, and features like touchscreen compatibility or a leash.

Dexterity and Fit

One of the first things you’ll notice after pulling on a pair is whether or not it’s easy to use your hands while wearing them. How well they fit will be a factor, but how well it moves is often this is a function of its purpose.

Insulated winter options are bulky by nature and must balance the need for warmth with the need for flexibility. As we mentioned above, mittens are warmer but less dextrous still. That’s probably fine if you’ll be skiing at a resort, riding the lift all day, and have easy access to a lodge for any major tasks or adjustments. If you’re heading into the backcountry, though, you’ll need a more dexterous option.

That’s also true if you work with your hands outside during winter months. Insulated versions that prioritize dexterity won’t be as warm, so you’ll have to plan accordingly. Hopefully, you’re working hard enough to generate warmth. We pay close attention to the flexibility and articulation of each pair we test.

Grip

A solid grip is always important, but perhaps most important for working, mountain biking, and climbing. To work, you have to be able to hold tools; to bike, you must hold onto bars and breaks; and if you’re belaying or rappelling, you really need to hold onto that rope. Some offer lather palms to improve grip. Others implore tacky rubber or gripping patterns. We note these features where we find them. Since basic winter mitts can be slippery, we look for those with enough grip to complete simple tasks.

Common Important Features

Touchscreen Compatability — Capacitive touchscreens like your smartphone are covered by a thin, transparent layer of conductive material. When you touch them with your bare finger, you interrupt the current. The device recognizes that as touch. For gloves to work the same way, they must include a conductive material, often in the form of a thread pattern or patch of fabric on several of the fingertips and the thumb.

This technology is increasingly common, especially since people often navigate trails and off-piste slopes using mapping features on their phones, not to mention documenting their epic adventures. Touchscreen compatibility is especially important in liners, which may be all that’s left standing between you and a bitter winter breeze while you figure out where you are on the mountain.

Cuff type — The cuffs can also affect how well it fits and how effectively it blocks the wind and weather. For winter and ski versions, it matters whether the cuff is designed to extend over the sleeve of your jacket. The style is known as a gauntlet cuff and creates a double layer that’s an effective seal against wicked winter weather.

Also, pay attention to whether or not there is a velcro or buckled strap to hold it in place or to adjust the fit. Small tweaks can really improve the fit and function of any handwear.

Winter-Specific Features — Winter and ski options often have more bells and whistles than the rest, probably because they stand between you and frostbite. A leash, for example, can help you keep track of them if you have to pull them off on the mountain. Keeping them dry and out of the snow is a safety concern. A nose wipe patch certainly improves your comfort, and fun additions like a Tuskegee to clear the fog from your goggles can come in handy in a pitch.

Conclusion

Taking good care of your hands can keep you out on the ski hill, on the singletrack, or on the job longer. But with all the options on the market, it can be overwhelming to find your perfect fit. We hope we’ve helped you find the perfect glove for your goals.

Ever wondered which animal’s eyes glow in the dark? Or maybe you are wondering how to recognize a set of glowing eyes in the dark?

Let’s look at some common animals with glowing eyes at night as well as some of the more extraordinary hunters and nightcrawlers.

These are the most typical animals to reflect back the light at night. Whether you point a flashlight at them or they simply just appear to have glowing eyes when being caught on camera.

Which Colors Do Animal’s Eyes Glow At Night?

When you meet an animal at night with glowing eyes the color will typically be:

• Red
• Yellow
• Green
• White
• Orange

(The ladder is a mix between red and yellow)

In this article, we will take a good look at all these animals. We will also list them by eye color according to a set of photos. Just remember that you cannot know for sure that animals will always have the same colored glow at different times.

We will come back to this at the end of the article – now it’s time to look some of these amazing night creatures in the eyes!

Which Animals Have RED Eyes At Night?

Several animals can have red or orange glowing eyes at night. This is because they have a reflective layer behind the eyeballs which enables the lights to get reflected back toward the viewer.

That perceived eye color at night depends on several factors like the animal’s actual eye color, the light source, and how the retina is constructed.

Alligators

Gators crocodiles have pretty large eyeballs compared to their size. They will often appear red in the dark and leave them looking even more terrifying than they do before night time.

Photo: Larry Lynch

Owls

Another animal wood red or orange eyes in the dark are the Owls. They typically hunt right before dark and they have incredibly good hearing. But they also have pretty good eyesight as well.

The eyes really stick out in the forest when you notice the two red dots staring right at you.

Owls have especially big eyes in the animal kingdom. Their eyes are constructed more like a tunnel-shape which means they have to turn their head in order to look around. This is no problem though because Owls can turn their head 270° around.

The dark orange eyes are very pretty and they are probably the reason why Owls symbolizes wisdom and knowledge.

Rabbits

Rabbits also have very special eyes. They will typically appear to have a light red tone in the dark if you catch them on camera or point a light source toward them. They can also be orange or even pinker red.

Again, the red color comes from the light being reflected at the back of the eye.

They also have a reflective layer behind the eyeballs which reflects the light back at you when you look at it. We will explain this feature in great detail toward the bottom of this article.

Cats

Cats are the masters when it comes to eye colors. They can have a wide variety of eye colors. Not only during the night but also when it comes to their actual eye colors at daytime.

This very special cat, however, actually has two different eye colors. One eye is red and the other is green. You can see more animals with two different eye colors here.

Which Animals Have YELLOW Eyes At Night?

Now let’s change the focus to animals with yellow glowing eyes for a moment. This is a very common feature among animals and we find quite a lot of species with glowing yellow eyes at night.

Bears

Bears are one example. In the daytime, they normally have dark brown eyes. But when the light reflects at night they typically appear bright yellowish.

Check out these bears staring at the driver.

They could probably scare most people if you saw them at night!

Cats

As we mentioned above, cats can have all sort of eye colors. This cat is staring at the photographer with bright yellow eyes that could pierce you.

Eye color is determined by two pigment colors called melanin and lipochrome. The blend of pigment (or lack thereof) determines which color the cat’s eyes will have. But at night time the light can change the eye color by reflecting only parts of the light spectrum.

These two sets of yellow cat eyes look pretty scary in the dark!

Deers

Another animal you typically can encounter at nighttime is the Deers. They will often stare right at you when you are driving or walking by a forest.

The eyes of the deer will often light up with a yellow tone at night simply because the light is reflected back.

Raccoons

Another animal you might have in front of you when you notice a yellow set of eyeballs is the raccoon.

Raccoons are also nocturnal animals and therefore also have the reflective layer behind the eyes. They will typically reflect yellow light back of you.

Chinchillas

Chinchillas are pretty popular as exotic pets.

Here is a cute little fella eating an apple in a tree. The yellow eyes really light up in the dark and they seem to be very focused on the photographer.

Panthers

The last animals we will look at with yellow eyes in the dark are the Panthers. They are large cats that hunt at night and their yellow eyes are very intense.

Most cats (large and small) will have yellow eyes in the dark. But most cats won’t have yellow eyes when the face is lit. But the Panthers can have very pretty yellow eyes. Though sometimes they can appear greener.

Which Animals Have GREEN Eyes At Night?

We will continue by listing a couple of animals with green eyes in the dark. These are a little rarer as most animals will have yellow or red eyes in the dark.

Dogs

Docs can have green eyes in the dark. This cute little golden retriever pup certainly looks adorable with the glowing eyes in the dark.

When you do see glowing eyes in the dark it will often be a cat or a dog. This is simply because these are some of the most common animals around areas where people live.

Cats

Here’s a cat with bright green eyes

Foxes

The eyes of the fox are also very intensive at night. They typically keep to themselves at night when they hunt. But if you do encounter them you should look for green (or yellow) eyes in the dark.

This fox has a mix of green and white eyes as he stares at you.

Opossums

Opossums will often leave a green reflection when they are lit up at night. Here are five Opossums in a tree.

Which Animals Have WHITE Eyes At Night?

Sometimes animal eyes will reflect a white light at night. We will finish off by looking at a couple of animals with bright white eyes in the night.

These three species have all been photographed with a flash on the camera. That enables the light to be reflected back as a very white and bright color.

Coyotes

Hear the photographer has caught a coyote with his/her lens. The coyote stairs right at the camera and the eyes are very white.

Deers

As we looked at previously, Deers will often have yellow eyes in the dark. That’s sometimes the eyes will appear with a very bright white color.

This is especially true if you use the flash on your camera. The white light from the flash will be reflected at the back of the eyes and return a purely white color for the photo.

Tigers

This is not the guy you want to meet at night. It’s a Tiger with white eyes staring right at you in the snow. It’s hard to spot in the snow at night but the eyes give it away.

Other animals with reflective eyes (Tapetum Lucidum) include:

• Rats
• Skunks
• Ferrets
• Horses
• Pigs
• Camels
• Flashlight Fish
• Cows
• Goats
• Walleyes
• Kangaroos
• Squirrels
• Spiders
• Lemur

As you can see most of these animals are nocturnal carnivores but we also have deep-sea animals on the list.

It’s especially important to see well if you are a predator in the sea (or if you are being hunted!). The water can make it hard to distinguish patterns and movement in the dark so big eyes with retroreflectors can really help here!

Why Do (Some) Animal Eyes Glow At Night?

We find this feature among several vertebrates.

The reason why some animals have glowing eyes at night is due to a thin reflective layer behind their eyes (behind the iris). It is called “Tapetum lucidum“. This layer reflects the light back at you when you look at the animal in the dark. This phenomenon is also sometimes referred to as “eyeshine”.

This means that the light travels through the retina twice and is reflected back in a wide variety of colors.

This also means, that the light you see is just the reflection of the light source pointed toward them. This will typically be a flashlight or a camera flash. When the light is reflected back it can have the colors red, yellow, green, or white.

The light is reflected directly back toward the direction of the light source in order to let the retina have a clear and more vivid image to analyze. For cats, the reflective effect increases the vision by more than 40% thus giving the cats incredible night vision.

It’s a genius way to add more light to the retina. Animals without this feature (and humans) will only have the light pass through the retina one time. But the reflection adds more light and detail to the retina in order for the animal to see better in the dark.

This lets our nocturnal friends see better and further in the dark. It’s both an advantage for the predators and for the prey and it’s a good reason to stay indoors if you live around wild animals. They will probably have way better night vision than you do!

These are also the animals that are very good at seeing in the dark and they are called the nocturnal animals. When the light is reflected back a second time through the retina the animal has a better chance of sensing and seeing in the dark.

Recognizing animals by eye color at night

So does this mean that you can recognize animals by their eye color at night?

No, not really.

The reason is that you cannot know for sure that an animal will always reflect the same color back at you. It can vary greatly due to several factors we shall look at below.

Sometimes the color will be yellow and other times it might be green or even white.

As we looked at above it all depends on several factors:

1. The color of the light being directed at the animal (LED, moonlight, flashlight etc.)
2. The animals own eye color (which can vary greatly even among the same species)
3. The size and construction of the retina
4. The distance between you and the animal
5. The angle you watch from

So you cannot know for sure that a certain species will always reflect the same eye color. When you look at how the eyes glow at night, you will notice above that we have deers and cats with both yellow and green eyes, for example.

You will need to know more facts about the animals in order to recognize them at night. It’s much better to look at the animal’s behavior, speed, size, etc.

If you can only see the eyes of the animal you should try to determine how much space there is between the eyes and how far from the ground they are. If it’s a big animal with large eyeballs you should keep a safe distance. But to remember that even small animals can be dangerous at night.

So if you don’t know what you dealing with you should keep your distance and make sure not to stare directly at the animal as it can stir up aggression in some species.

Why Do Animals Have Better Night Sight?

As we mentioned above, some animals have a reflective layer at the back of the eye enabling them to see better in the dark. But that’s not the only reason why they have better night’s vision.

Another reason is that they are able to see a wider spectral range of colors.

• They can see UV and infrared light Many nocturnal animals can also see UV light as well as infrared light. Bees, for instance, can see some UV light.
• They have bigger eyes Some animals have larger eyes which enable them to let in more light. That means that they can sense more movements and shapes in the dark, and are able to see in greater detail in the dark.
• More light sensors Some animals have more light sensors in their eyes called “Rhodopsins”, and they let in more light. This advantage has a backside though as these animals typically are relatively colorblind as they lack other types of sensors that capture the colors of the light.

What colors do human eyes reflect at night?

Human eyes would always reflect a red color. This is because we do not have the reflective layer behind the retina (tapetum lucidum). Therefore the light will not be reflected back toward the photographer or the viewer.

So if you do see a human set of eyeballs lighting up in the dark it is typically because they are being photographed. They will appear red because of the blood vessels in the retinas in the eyes.

The light from the flash will enter through the center of the eye called the pupil (the black part) and its size is determined by the iris muscle. If the pupil is small there won’t be sufficient light to lit up the blood in the eye. This is why red-eye reduction software lets the camera’s flash blink an extra time just before the photo is taken in order to let the eye reflect off the light of the flash instead of letting it into the eye.