Over the last few years, prices on just about everything in the hunting industry have been gradually increasing, with muzzleloaders being no exception to this trend. With those price increases, we have seen many new and exciting products introduced, such as the Traditions NitroFire™ and the CVA™ Paramount.

However, the majority of hunters have a hard time justifying the purchase of a muzzleloader that is in the $600 to $2000 range, especially the hunters that live in regions with limited muzzleloading opportunities. Knowing this, we want to ensure that we offer highly effective muzzleloaders for a price that can be easily afforded by anyone who would like to give muzzleloader hunting a shot.

Our team set out to determine which muzzleloader is the best for hunters on a budget. Both of the muzzleloaders that were considered by our team are available with a scope for under $400. Below are our top two picks for the best budget muzzleloaders, with the winner listed at the end of this article.

CVA™ Wolf V2

The CVA Wolf™ V2 has been one of the most popular muzzleloaders in the US for almost a decade. With the compact design and affordable price point, the Wolf V2 is an excellent choice for someone looking to get into muzzleloading at an affordable level. The ability to get this muzzleloader with open sights for around $300 and with a scope and case for under $400 makes the CVA Wolf V2 an extremely attractive gun for many hunters. With a weight of only 6.25 pounds, its compact and lightweight design makes it perfect for all hunting applications. It also features the CVA Quick Release Breech Plug, which allows for tool-free removal of the breech plug and a hassle-free cleaning process. When it comes to budget muzzleloaders, the CVA Wolf V2 is leading the pack as one of the best.

Traditions™ Buckstalker XT

The Traditions™ Buckstalker XT™ offers all of the same great features of the original Buckstalker design, yet for 2024, Traditions has added the Elite XT™ trigger. This is the same premium trigger that is offered in the Traditions Pursuit VAPR™ XT and it provides a crisp and clean trigger pull.

Traditions prides themselves on producing some of the safest muzzleloaders on the market and with its trigger safety and internal block safety, the Buckstalker XT is no exception. This rifle also features the Traditions Accelerator Breech Plug, which is removed in only three turns, making the cleaning and unloading process incredibly quick and easy.

The Buckstalker XT is available with a scope for under $400 and can be purchased with a CeraKote™ finish for a small increase in price. The Traditions Buckstalker XT is a feature-rich muzzleloader that is sure to be effective in the woods and on the range.

Conclusion

Both CVA™ Wolf and Traditions™ Buckstalker XT muzzleloaders are excellent choices for anyone on a budget and wanting to experience muzzleloading, however, our choice for the best budget muzzleloader goes to the Traditions Buckstalker XT.

Though it is not quite as affordable as the CVA Wolf, we believe that the additional safety features, the Elite XT trigger, and the ability to upgrade to a CeraKote finish, give this muzzleloader an edge over the CVA Wolf.

We hope that this makes your decision a little bit easier and if you have any questions then feel free to contact our knowledgeable customer service at [email protected] or 1-855-236-5000.

When considering the 8.6 Blackout, the wrong question to ask is “Is it better than what we already have?” The right question to ask is “Is this the coolest cartridge design on the market?” The answer to the first question is “only for specific use cases.” The answer to the second question is, unquestionably, “YES!”

In essence, 8.6 Blackout is designed to shoot heavy .338 caliber bullets at modest supersonic or quiet subsonic speeds for hunting or self defense. The cartridge is unique for its radical 1:3 twist rate which produces extreme rotational energy to aid its terminal performance and allows it to shoot accurately with subsonic ammunition. The design allows for shorter barrels and subsonic ammunition to be used.

Despite its uniqueness, the western hunter will struggle mightily to understand the 8.6 Blackout after seeing the following table.

If you value flat-shooting traditional hunting rounds, then the above table would end your interest in 8.6 Blackout. Then, you see photos like one below, and you say. Wait, what? That guy killed a CAPE BUFFALO with a semi-auto rifle with a tiny 12-inch barrel? Suddenly, any hunter’s interest is piqued.

There are many advantages of the 8.6 Blackout which have never been possible with existing cartridge designs, but they only make sense if you’re willing to take a non-traditional look at what a hunting rifle could become.

Pros and Cons of 8.6 Blackout

Case Design

1 – A typical 6.5 Creedmoor case is the parent case for the 8.6 Blackout

2 – Put a 6.5 Creedmoor case in an 8.6 Blackout reloading die, and drop the press. You end up with a much expanded neck to fit the large bullet, and a shoulder pushed quite a bit lower

3 – Trim the case from step 2, and you have a fully prepared 8.6 Blackout case (that might require some neck turning)

4 – Grab a gigantic bullet to put in your 8.6 Blackout. Notice that this Sierra 225 MatchKing bullet is even longer than the case

5 – A completed 8.6 Blackout cartridge

Comparing 8.6 Blackout to Similar Cartridges

Not surprisingly, the most comparable cartridge to the 8.6 Blackout is its little sister-the .300 Blackout. The .300 Blackout is essentially a .223 case necked up for a giant bullet that allows the cartridge to shoot supersonic or subsonic with heavy-weight penetration.

The 8.6 Blackout essentially accomplishes a similar purpose, but in a much more powerful platform.

Rifles Available in 8.6 Blackout

So far, only three companies produce rifles in the 8.6 Blackout cartridge: Q, Faxon, and Gorilla.

Most people looking to get an 8.6 Blackout rifle will likely end up looking at Faxon Firearms. They make relatively inexpensive barrels for the AR-10 platform (commissions earned). If you already have an AR-10, you can simply screw on one of their barrels and you’re done.

For complete rifles, Faxon has two options: their bolt-action Overwatch, and the AR-10 Sentinel. I personally have their Sentinel AR-10 rifle, and I can confidently say it’s the nicest AR-10 I’ve ever owned.

Q makes high-end rifles with the “cool factor.” They have produced some very innovative suppressors, rifles like “The Fix” and now a cartridge. Looking through their website, the only model I could currently see being produced in 8.6 Blackout is The Fix as a 12″ SBR (meaning you’ll need a tax stamp and enough patience to wait for the ATF).

Gorilla Ammo also produces complete firearms. They have their GF10 Lightweight Hunting Rifle as well as their GF Bolt Action Rifle available in very limited quantities.

Prediction: Will 8.6 Blackout Take Off?

I see 8.6 Blackout is a boutique cartridge.

As a hunting cartridge, it isn’t flat shooting enough to whet the appetite of western hunters. They want cartridges like the new 7mm PRC. Eastern hunters shooting whitetail aren’t exactly clamoring for more power to kill a whitetail. They want cartridges like the 6.5 Creedmoor, or even a lever action 30-30. It frankly isn’t that hard to kill a whitetail at short range. Midwest Hunters are looking to straight-wall cartridges to follow strict state laws.

There is, however, one huge factor that may help to push 8.6 Blackout. It’s the Hornady factor. Hornady manufactures a giant amount of 6.5 Creedmoor ammunition and has worked with Q to produce brass for early production. When Hornady sorts through its backlog, I would expect them to begin producing 8.6 Blackout since they already do production runs for 6.5 Creedmoor brass, and I doubt they’ll miss an opportunity to play with a cartridge that opens up a completely new engineering need for unique bullet designs.

If the last 20 years teaches us anything, it’s that if Hornady touches a cartridge, it’s probably going to take off.

Reloading 8.6 Blackout

Since I had a bucket of 6.5 Creedmoor brass, I chose to convert that brass to 8.6 Blackout rather than waiting for brass to become available. I’m glad I didn’t wait, because it ended up being a rather enjoyable process.

I was informed by others online that Hornady 6.5 Creedmoor brass was the best option for converting, so I blindly obeyed like a sheep.

I used the Lyman dies in 8.6 Blackout which were very inexpensive. I tried other Lyman dies before that I didn’t like, but this one worked out perfectly.

I kept the expander ball in the die and went down slowly into the case, backing off and coming back down every few millimeters since it is quite a stretch from 6.5mm to 8.6mm. It would have been much better to use an expander mandrel and slowly step up each caliber to 8.6mm, but I wasn’t reloading for precision and wanted quicker results.

The brass looked pretty good at this point. The brass around the shoulder had tiny waves, but it was minimal enough for me not to be concerned.

This left a large neck on the case, which I simply ran through my Frankford Arsenal Case Trim and Prep Center to shave down. I used a trim to length of 1.675″ given that the specified case length was 1.685.” I wish there were more detailed reloading data available, but that was my best estimate for a good “trim to” length. Please, however, don’t rely on my data because I’m a layman and not a ballistician.

The next issue is the neck thickness. Unfortunately, my first batch of ammo produced too thick of a neck, so it wouldn’t fully chamber. I highly recommend the Sheridan case gauge checker for 8.6 Blackout, which was recommended to me originally on the AP2020 Youtube channel.

Next, I loaded the case with Accurate 1680 powder, which was a new powder for me. It’s extremely fine-so fine that I found it very difficult to meter and pour because the fine powder would stick in my funnel no matter what I tried.

I followed the load recommendations from Q which are published on the Faxon website. They are included below.

When doing load development, only use information from the powder or firearms manufacturer-not random blogs like this one. Always start load development low when working with supersonic rounds and work up, or vice-versa for subsonic rounds. Do not use this information for developing loads. It is for academic purposes only and may contain errors.

Crocodiles and great white sharks are magnificent marine creatures that intrigue one and all. Let us draw a comparative analysis between them.

Crocodiles are reptiles who live on land and water, whereas great white sharks prefer residing in deep waters and will not survive on land. Both crocodiles and great white sharks are dangerous, aggressive creatures who prey on smaller animals of the ocean. However, they frequently attack each other too.

There are several questions that people might have regarding crocodiles and great whites, especially when it comes to the critical differences between them. Today, we will answer some of the most commonly asked questions.

Image Credits: “Madagascar, crocodiles” by luc legay is marked with CC BY-SA 2.0.

Image Credits: “Great White Shark” by Elias Levy is marked with CC BY 2.0.

How are crocodiles different from great white sharks?

Crocodiles and great white sharks are two different species with several distinguishing characteristics. Let us learn more in this regard.

Crocodiles belong to the family of reptiles, whereas great white sharks are essentially a cartilaginous shark species. In addition, crocodiles can move on both land and water, whereas sharks cannot survive outside water and swim at a depth of 1200 meters or more. Besides, crocodiles are generally considered stronger than great white sharks.

Of course, there are several similarities between the two animals. For one, they are both fierce predators who prey on numerous marine creatures.

Will great white sharks win in a fight against crocodiles?

Image Credits: “Great White Shark” by Elias Levy is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Great white sharks and crocodiles are both predators and fighters. But, who will win in a fight against the other? Let us find out.

Great white sharks will win in a fight against crocodiles in deep waters but lose to them in shallow waters. Crocodiles are powerful creatures who can bite and tear apart their prey, and any smaller shark species cannot hold their own against them. However, great white sharks are powerful enough to prey on crocodiles.

We must mention here that great whites are also better swimmers comparatively and can see better in deep waters, which gives them an added advantage over crocodiles.

Crocodile vs. great white shark bite force

Crocodiles and great white sharks have varying bite forces. Allow us to tell you more in this regard.

The crocodiles have greater bite force, not just in comparison to great whites but also most marine animals. For example, crocodiles have a bite force of 3,700 psi, and their jaws are quite powerful as well, whereas great white sharks have a biting force that extends up to 4,000 psi, depending on the size of the shark.

We must mention here that in the case of great white sharks, the larger their size, the more powerful will be their biting force.

Nile crocodile vs. great white shark

Image credits: “Nile Crocodile basking” by Steve Slater (used to be Wildlife Encounters) is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Nile crocodiles and great white sharks are two popular oceanic species. Let us draw a comparative analysis between them.

Nile crocodiles attack anything and everything that comes their way, whereas great white sharks are more selective. As some of you might already know, great white sharks prefer eating seagulls and other shark species. They attack humans out of confusion but never deliberately, whereas there is recorded evidence of Nile crocodiles actively preying on humans.

Nile crocodiles are also known for attacking other crocodiles, small hippos, and birds.

Sea crocodile vs. great white shark

Image Credits: “Saltwater Crocodile” by thinboyfatter is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Image credits: “Great White Shark” by Elias Levy is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Sea crocodiles and great white sharks are intriguing creatures. Allow us to chalk out a comparative analysis between them.

Great white sharks are slightly bigger than sea crocodiles and can overpower them in combat, although not easily. Great white sharks are better swimmers and can maneuver through the ocean, especially deep waters, with ease, whereas sea crocodiles may not have the same swiftness.

Moreover, we must mention here that crocodiles cannot see as well as great whites in the water, which gives the sharks an added advantage.

Tiger shark vs. crocodile

Image Credits: “Tiger Shark at Sea World, Gold Coast” by kevgibbo is marked with CC BY 2.0.

Tiger sharks and crocodiles are dangerous, ferocious creatures. Let us together explore their differences.

Tiger sharks definitely have the upper hand over crocodiles. This is because they can move around better in water, have greater agility, and have sharp, powerful teeth with a strong biting force. Therefore, they can easily cut through turtle shells and attack crocodiles as well. There have been instances of tiger sharks preying on and eating crocodiles.

That being said, crocodiles are ferocious hunters too and often prey on smaller shark species, including young tiger sharks.

Shark vs. crocodile bite force

Sharks and crocodiles have different bite forces in general. Allow us to tell you more in this regard.

Crocodiles are the most powerful biters among all terrestrial species. They have a bite force that extends up to 3,700 PSI and has around 66 teeth that are four inches long each. On the other hand, sharks have teeth that extend up to two inches and have a bite force of 4,000 PSI.

However, shark teeth are serrated and therefore make it easier for them to cut into and tear apart the flesh.

Saltwater crocodile vs. great white shark size

Saltwater crocodiles and great white sharks vary in terms of height and weight. Let us tell you more about their size.

Great white sharks happen to be bigger than saltwater crocodiles and weigh around 6,500 to 7500 lbs, whereas most saltwater crocodiles grow up to 800-1600 lbs only. Besides, great white sharks and crocodiles have similar heights, with sharks growing up to a maximum length of 21 feet, whereas saltwater crocodiles grow up to 22 feet.

Crocodiles, in general, have a tougher hide which makes them more resilient to attacks, and they can hold their own against great whites.

Conclusion

Great white sharks and crocodiles are among the two most intriguing oceanic creatures. They are both highly dangerous and can get quite aggressive towards humans. While crocodiles attack quite indiscriminately, great white sharks prefer preying on sea lions, seals, and smaller shark species. Both these animals are threatened by overfishing and commercial exploitation, due to which it becomes essential for government bodies to take adequate measures to ensure their conservation.

This isn’t the best place to be if you’re a vegetarian or aren’t interested in venturing into more unorthodox meat choices for your dinner.

Now that you have been forewarned, let’s get on with discussing what does Porcupine taste like? Yes, this large rodent is a delicacy for many people in the South East Asian communities.

The spiky creature is also eaten in the west, but you’ll hardly ever see it on the menu of famous steak houses or corporate food networks.

Some have even labeled it an ‘acquired taste’ since it tends to overpower the palate if not cooked right.

What is Porcupine?

If you haven’t seen a porcupine in real life and are trying to picture what it looks like, consider browsing a picture or two on the web for reference.

The animal is covered in spikes and looks like a giant guinea pig, minus the fluffy fur.

The mammal is part of the order Rodentia and is classified under two subspecies: Hystricidae and Erethizontidae.

Old-world porcupines or Hystricidae are native to Asia, Europe, and Africa.

Whereas New word porcupines, called Erethizontidae, are found in North America and South America.

Though they are divided into subfamilies, the typical characteristics to identify the beast are the same.

They have quills on their back, snots for noses, and are generally a dark grayish color.

While the latter is mainly arboreal, the other species are terrestrial and easier to hunt.

What Does Porcupine Taste Like?

Often compared to white and red meat, many have debated that porcupine is most similar to pork.

The meat is made up mostly of fat and is extremely rich in flavor.

Some even say there’s a certain sweetness to it.

Most of the food that we consume tastes like the nutrients that its body contains.

And, since porcupines are solely herbivores, it’s no wonder that their meat is succulent, clean, and vibrant.

While slicing into the meat, you’ll notice that the color is darker than usual captive-bred meat.

Wild meat usually has an off-putting muskiness, but while porcupine meat has a strong kick, it also has a subtle sweetness that helps offset the gaminess.

Ironically the name porcupine is a play on words meaning ‘pork of the pines’.

The word is derived from two Latin words, ‘ porcus’ and ‘spina,’ which translates to ‘pig’ and ‘spine.

‘ It could be a coincidence that the animal is named after pigs, or maybe people in the old days found resemblances in the look or taste.

Whatever the reason, most will agree with the similarity in flavor.

In the early days, the meat of this porky roach was compared to very strong-smelling cheese.

American Naturalist William Long even went so far as the say it was vile.

However, in recent years with many people trying to find healthier ways of consuming red meat, this exotic ingredient is now making the rounds in the local market.

How to Cook and Serve Porcupine?

Let’s first clarify the big question of how to prepare the meat for consumption.

Seeing as how the body is primarily covered in spikes or quills, it can take a lot of work to dress the meat for cooking.

You either have to skin the carcass or burn the skin and quills off.

The other methods of manually removing the spikes may be time-consuming and challenging to accomplish.

Great tutorials show you how to complete any of the steps mentioned above.

Once you’ve completed the demanding task of getting the meat ready to cook, it’s pretty easy to prepare.

Many people will separate the skin and Subcutaneous fat and roast it or grill it directly over an open fire.

Other methods of cooking require a bit more preparation time.

You can prepare porcupine stews if you have all the right accessories to flavor the pungent meat.

Or, you can coat them in batter and cracker crumbs and enjoy the deep-fried meat.

However, the most common cooking method would be to leave the skin on and roast it whole, just like how you would prepare a Lechon.

Adding this red meat to your diet can actually do you good because of its high protein content and other nutrients.

Conclusion

As wild game makes a comeback into our kitchens, the porcupine can be a great way to start your culinary experience with exotic meats.

They’re straightforward to cook and have been regularly consumed by people in the past.

It also pairs well with solid wines due to its rich aroma and taste.

The meat from this spiny animal is also highly coveted for all its health benefits.

So much so that it is a staple food item for indigenous people in South East Asia.

So, the next time you’re out browsing for something eclectic and different and see some fresh porcupine meat for sale, you should grab some for yourself.

About The Author

If you’re new to trout fishing and want to get started using artificial baits, there is no better lure to begin with than the humble spinner. The spinner was conceived by French engineer Andre Meulnart on the trout rivers of the French Alps and later adopted and mass produced in the U.S. by Todd Sheldon.

The spinner has become a timeless lure with a reputation to match. Whether you call it a Roostertail, Panther Martin, or MEPPs, the spinner is cheap, easy to use, and practical. I doubt there is an angler alive today that has not had a spinner in their tackle boxes at some point, and there is good reason for it. The spinner remains one of the single most effective fishing lures ever created. From the tackle you use, the size of the lure, and the type of retrieve you perform, the spinner is a highly versatile and nuanced lure that can help you land that trophy trout you’ve been after for years.

Why are Spinners so effective for trout?

Trout, like all fish species, have a specialized organ called the lateral line that runs the length of their bodies. This organ has evolved to pick up vibrations in the water column that indicate danger or potential prey. Trout have also developed incredible monocular and binocular color vision making them adept hunters regardless of water quality and light conditions. The spinner stimulates these extraordinary senses and often elicits a strike even if the trout isn’t hungry. The flash of the blade through the water mimics a floundering baitfish or insect, while the blade’s spinning vibration reinforces the deception that the lure is, indeed, a prey item. Together these two aspects make the spinner lure nearly irresistible to an aggressive trout and at least worth a closer inspection by more wary specimens.

What Tackle to Pair and Rig with Spinners

A good rule of thumb when fishing for trout, especially in smaller creeks and streams, is to use the most lightweight tackle you can feasibly get away with. My go-to spinner set up for trout is typically a 3000-size spinning reel with 8-12lb braided line, 3-4ft fluorocarbon leader paired with a 6-8ft light action fishing rod with a soft tip. If you have not guessed by now, the name of the game is lightweight tackle; you can use a baitcaster, but unless the lure is at least 1/8oz, I wouldn’t advise it unless you love fixing backlash.

Table 1: A general guide to the sizes of line lure based on the conditions. Color is entirely up to the angler. Rod type for all data below is a 7ft light-medium action rod with a soft tip.

Reel size(Spinning)Mainline(Braid)Leaderline(Floro)Spinner SizeWaterConditionsTrout Expected1000-30008-12lbn4-6lbn1/32 oz; 1/16 oz; 1/8 oz1-5ft, light currentSmall to Medium size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout1000-300010-12lb6-8lb1/4 oz; 1/4 oz1-10ft, light to heavy currentMedium to Large size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout3000+10-12lb6-8lb1/4 oz; 1/4 oz1-10ft, light to heavy currentMedium to Large size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout3000+12+lb8-12lb3/4 oz; 1 oz1-10ft, light to heavy currentMedium to Large size Rainbow, Brook, and Brown Trout

Tackle

1. Spinning reel: size 1000-3000

1000 to 3000 sizes of spinning reels are typically compact, light, and more than capable of handling large trout even in fast current. The reel brand is entirely up to the angler, and I would advise avoiding plastic-bodied reels with plastic handles. Remember, in the world of retail fishing, if it feels cheap, it probably is cheap. Typically higher-quality gear will have aluminum, steel, or carbon-fiber reel handles and bodies. My current favorite reel to use with spinners is a Daiwa Legalis 3000 LT.

2. Spinning Rod: 5-8ft Light to Light-Medium action

Longer rods will allow longer casts and more maneuverability around rocks and boulders, while a shorter rod can be used for quicker, more precise casting. Because I like to fish rivers with dense shoreline cover, I typically choose shorter, more maneuverable rods that won’t get hung up in trees and limbs.

3. Line: 8-12lb braid with a 4-6lb fluorocarbon leader

The light braid will give you substantially more casting distance without sacrificing line strength. The fluorocarbon leader is nearly invisible in the water and will not spook away wary trout.

4. Lure Size and Weight: 1/32 to 1 oz

Lure weight and size depend entirely on depth, wind conditions, size of fish targeted, fish species, and the type of water being fished. A solid middle ground for all types of water is a 1/8 oz spinner. Remember that lure size does matter when attempting to target larger fish regardless of what people tell you. Animals can determine whether a prey item is worth their time for the energy they expend to retrieve it. Although you can find cases of small fishing hitting big lures and vice versa, typically, larger lures will entice larger fish. This is why Muskie spinners are nearly the size of your hand, while trout spinners can be smaller than your pinky fingernail.

Color of Spinner, Do Trout Care?

The color of the spinner’s body isn’t as important as you might think, regardless of what the trout fanatics and gurus tell you. Spinners are primarily causing reactionary strikes with trout due to the combination of flash and vibration. Therefore, when changing lures, it’s more prudent to change the blade style and color instead of the lure’s body color. Changing the blade color, alters the flash color and vibration that the spinner is expending into the water, which might be more enticing to that lethargic 20in brown your trying not to “accidentally” snag in the face after your 100th cast at it.

Typically I use darker colors during clear days and brighter colors on overcast days. Regardless of this guideline, however, I have been mistaken before. So take this advice with a pinch of salt. Tip: My favorite color and size when exploring a new creek or river is a 1/16oz Rooster-tail with a bronze blade.

How to Rig a Spinner for Trout Fishing

As the name implies, spinners spin. Unfortunately, this sometimes causes the line to spin as well. We use a fluorocarbon leader attached to the braid with a swivel to prevent this. The swivel will allow the leader line to spin while preventing the mainline from turning. Although this isn’t required, it will help avoid tangles and loops forming in your mainline, which can be a real pain in the neck.

When spinner fishing for you trout, you can use a standard spinner rig setup. Tie the mainline (braid) to the fluorocarbon leader using a barrel swivel. Attached the mainline and fluorocarbon leader to the swivel using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot. Allow for 1′ to 2′ of leader line between the swivel and your spinner bait.

Tip: To remove twists from the line remove all tackle from the terminal end of the line and free-spool out as much line as possible into the current or behind a boat. This will naturally allow the line to untwist itself.

How and Where to use a Spinner for Trout

Retrieval Rate

Your retrieval rate is an important aspect you must be aware of when spinner fishing for trout. All spinners have a minimum retrieval rate that will allow the spinner to rotate freely like a boat propeller and not just flop around in the water. To use a spinner the most effectively, you want to maintain the slowest retrieval that your spinner will allow as you propel it through the water.

All brands, blade sizes, shapes, and weights of spinners are different, and finding the optimal retrieval rate for each one is imperative. To get an idea of your spinners’ optimal retrieval rate, drag the lure a few feet in front of you until you see the blade engage and rotate like a small propeller. If it isn’t rotating, you can bend the blade’s edge using a pair of pliers or flatten it with a hammer or rock.

How to Fish a River with a Spinner for Trout

In a river, trout are typically in feeding lanes with their heads pointed into the current as they wait for wounded baitfish or insects to pass by them. These feeding lanes generally are found on drop-offs into deeper water or on the edge of eddies created by rocks or fallen timber. Rarely will they pursue a meal into the current to waste precious energy, highlighting the importance of proper positioning when you make your cast.

Always throw your spinner at roughly a 45-degree angle up-current to allow it to swing through areas where you believe fish might be. Since we know the general direction in a river that trout will face, it’s also prudent to walk upriver instead of downriver when bank fishing. This way, you walk up behind fish instead of in their line of sight. You’ll find you spook less fish and catch more this way.

How to Fish a Lake with a Spinner for Trout

In lakes, trout are much more susceptible to atmospheric changes than in rivers. During the hottest and coldest months of the year, you will typically find them in deeper water and difficult to target by the shore. During the Spring and Fall, trout will hunt along the shorelines, looking for insects, amphibians, and small fish that stray too far into the open. These are the optimal times to throw spinners for trout in a lake. Keep the spinner just a few feet above the bottom, maintaining a continuous retrieval casting toward the structure or the bank. Try to fish drop-offs, structures, and vegetation where the trout’s natural prey may be hiding.

Final Note: Brown vs. Rainbow Trout

Typically, when fishing for trout in the U.S., you will find yourself in waters stocked with Brown or Rainbow trout. Both species of fish have variable habits that, once known, can help you identify areas where you are more likely to catch either species. Brown trout love the dense cover of fallen logs and shorelines with overhangs where they can ambush small animals, fish, and insects as they fall into the water.

Although you can find rainbows exhibiting similar behavior until they reach a particular size class, I tend to find rainbows in deeper, calmer water. Brown trout are also more aggressive and prefer hunting smaller trout and fish, while rainbows, especially hatchery fish, prefer bugs, nymphs, and larvae. I know…I know, you have caught giant brown trout on size 20 nymphs and swear by it. However, from my experience, larger spinners with wider blades tend to catch more brown trout than rainbows.

Till next time, good luck and tight lines.

In the firearms industry it seems there is always a “trend” that is accepted as the state of the art for a period of time and then something else will come along and replace it. Right now aluminum bedding blocks seem to be the “trend”. I recently posted our views on the ABB so I won’t get into that today but there is a related trend I think needs to be addressed. “Pillar Bedding” or bedding using aluminum pillars.

First a little history: Many years ago when wood stocks ruled the world there was very few things that would improve the accuracy of a rifle as much as “glass bedding” would. Almost no factory guns came bedded and most shot barely acceptable. Glass bedding usually enhanced the accuracy as well as increased the dependability by limiting the effects of humidity and water which played havoc with point of impact (POI). By using an epoxy based product that was reinforced with some fiberglass, thus the term glass bedding, one could form a much better mating surface between the stock and the receiver. By reducing or eliminating any stresses caused by poorly match surfaces it allowed the rifle to shoot more consistently.

In the benchrest community they found that by torquing both guard screws with a torque wrench they could actually tune the way the gun would shoot. They were constantly checking the toque, between matches and even between groups, and most found that the more they shot the rifle, the more the amount of torque would decrease. They reasoned that the stock must be compressing some due to the pressure and stress associated with shooting. As a result they drilled out the holes around the guard screws to the next larger size (usually from 5/16 to 3/8 or 1/2 inch.) When bedding the action they would allow these larger holes to fill up with bedding material. After removing the screws (of course they waxed them first) they would then drill out the screw hole to 5/16th for some clearance, but that would in effect leave a pillar of 1/16 to 3/16” wall thickness of bedding material. The bedding material was dense and rigid so it made a nice pillar that would keep the stock from compressing under the pressure of 40-60lbs of torque, plus the stress of firing the rifle.

Not long after the pillar bedding process was developed, fiberglass stocks came onto the scene. While benchrest shooters were convinced that pillar bedding had a positive effect on the accuracy of their rifles they assumed that the same process would help to improve accuracy of a fiberglass stocked rifle. The process quickly adapted itself to “glass” stocks.

When Chet Brown and Lee Six first introduced fiberglass stocks to the competitive world in the late ’60’s, they used a process that left the stock with a “foam” core. The stocks were made of fiberglass cloth outer shells with the action area and barrel channels actually molded during the initial process. They would use a low density urethane foam to expand the material from the inside and force it out against the walls of the mold to form the gun stock. As a result between the receiver area and the bottom of the stock (where the guard screws are) there was a foam core. The foam was light weight to keep the weight of the stock within reason and when cured was rigid (unlike polystyrene of foam rubber) but had very little compression strength. In short order it was found that pillars were absolutely required in order to keep from compressing the stock when tightening the guard screws.

As a general rule, the same procedure was used to make the pillars as was used with wood stocks. Simply drill the guard screw holes over size and fill them up with bedding material. The draw back to this technique was that occasionally there would be some excessive shrinkage in the bedding material due to the volume of bedding compound that flowed down around the screws. Though this resulted in a less than perfect job from a cosmetic stand point, it had no adverse effect on the performance of the bedding. When guys like my father and Wally Hart and Fred Sinclair started to take on this type of work for their fellow competitors they felt a need to produce a better looking job and the use of precut aluminum pillars was introduced. More on the technical information on aluminum pillars in Part two.

When Gale McMillan introduced his fiberglass stocks in 1973 they were made in pretty much the same manner as the brown stocks. Urethane foam was a major component and this pillar bedding was a main ingredient in all benchrest stocks he made. Gale only made benchrest stocks for the first two years he was in business. Due to the weight limitations in benchrest, light stocks were a must and the materials used were not nearly as strong as they could have been in a stock weighing much more. Pillar bedding was one way to make up for their lack of strength in the receiver area.

Stay tuned for part two on November 2nd!

Belly, swedge, choil, and bevel — what the heck do these things actually mean? In the context of pocket knives, unfortunately, the answers can be complicated. While some terms are nearly universal (“edge,” for instance, or “lock”), there are certain words and phrases that can vary slightly, either from the manufacturer or the “everyday carry” community at large.

But that’s why I’m here! In conjunction with my recent explainer on shopping for your first knife, I thought it might be helpful to explain some of the various parts and pieces you’ll see referenced in most of our reviews. Many of these are shared in the world of fixed blades, but for this guide, we’re going to focus mostly on folders.

Get ready for a vocabulary overload, and no small amount of quibbling. From grinds to blade shapes and tips, the terminology and debates are almost endless. But to join (or pass up) the discussion, here’s what you’ll need to know.

A Knife’s Blade and Parts

This is the natural place to start, as the shape and arrangement of the blade is likely to play the biggest role in your choice of pocket knife. Something we won’t be covering is the multitude of available steels.

If you’re looking for a deep dive into the best steel for your particular application, check out this separateexplainer from GearJunkie.

Grind

We’ll begin with the edge. That’s the sharp part that cuts things, right? True! But it’s a bit more complicated than that.

There are several ways a blade can be ground into sharpness. For pocket knives, the most common is the flat grind and the hollow grind.

The first of these is just as it sounds — the blade slopes down from the top (or spine) until the sides join at the cutting edge. Their angles usually taper once again near the very end, forming what we call a secondary bevel. That’s the shiny part that catches the sun.

A hollow grind has all of the same parts, except that the blade steel slopes inward as it descends toward the edge instead of plunging straight down at an angle. This creates a narrower, more slicing-friendly edge that’s wider at the top and thinner at the bottom. Knives like the Buck 110 are a classic example of this design.

There are other types, such as Scandi (short for Scandinavian) grind, which can be found on knives like the Cold Steel Finn Wolf. In this case, both sides of the blade descend straight down, until they angle inward to form a single, primary bevel/edge.

These are excellent for outdoor pursuits, specifically woodworking and bushcraft. Saber grinds are similar to Scandis, though they angle inward again to form a shorter, secondary bevel at the edge. Both of these are far more common on fixed blades as opposed to folders.

Tip to Belly

A knife’s belly is the part of the blade where the edge curves up toward the tip. Unlike human beings, the more belly your knife has, the better it is at sliding through things.

Some knives (like tantos) have no belly at all. These are better suited for scraping or piercing tasks. You may also see serrations near the backside of the edge (also called the heel), which are saw-like teeth best used for cutting fibrous materials like a rope.

This is also where makers potentially install a sharpening choil, which is a small (usually half-moon) shaped cutout that allows users to more easily sharpen the full length of the edge.

The Benchmade Bugout, for instance, has a large choil, while the Spyderco Delica has none.

Proceeding upward from the tip, you’ll often see a narrowed stretch of metal along the top of the blade. This is called a swedge, and it helps taper the steel into a fine point.

There are an incredible number of tip styles and, to be frank, the labeling is incredibly nebulous: reverse tanto, sheepsfoot, Wharncliffe, drop point, and clip — makers tend to play fast and loose with their naming conventions. Just know that the narrower the tip, the more delicate it is.

Near the rear of the spine, many makers include a series of small, beveled cutouts known as jimping. These are designed to provide a natural landing spot for your thumb, lending additional texture and grip.

Opening, Locking Mechanisms

This is a big one, so I’m going to boil it down to basics. Thumb studs and finger holes are exactly what they sound like. They’re added or absent bits of metal along the upper rear of the blade, which allow you to push the knife open with your thumb.

A flipper tab does the same thing, though it’s positioned on the bottom side, near the heel. Many of these also serve double duty as a blade guard, keeping your finger away from the edge once the knife is open.

Front flippers are also a thing, though these require some practice. Nail nicks are most common on traditional knives, which utilize a backspring to keep the blade semi-locked in place.

However it opens, the blade will swing open on a pivot. And surrounding the pivot, you’re likely to find things like washers or bearings to help move the action along. You’ll also see reviewers discussing a knife’s detent.

As the folks at Knives and Tools so eloquently described, this is another small bearing that lines up with a hole cut out in the hidden portion of the blade.

“Because the detent ball falls into the hole when the knife is closed, the knife will stay closed.”

So when you see a reference to “detent,” folks are generally discussing the amount of force required to pop open a blade. Simple!

Locks are a different matter. For a discussion on these, I’m going to refer you to the experts at KnifeCenter. Frankly, this topic is vast enough to be an article in itself. But it’s hard to go wrong with the basics, like a back lock, frame lock, or liner lock.

Handle and Clip

You know what a broom handle is, right?

Well, knife handles are a lot like that, only they’re attached to sharpened steel instead of rough bristles. Basically, it’s the place where you put your hand. There are plenty of materials used here, but the most common are things like G-10, FRN, Micarta, and carbon fiber.

These are well-suited for most general use, though metals like titanium, steel, and aluminum are also popular. Heck, you can even find wood or bone pocket knives, if you’re going the traditional route.

Best for general use: G-10, FRN. Because of their water resistance and grippy nature, these materials are perfect for most everyday tasks. Micarta also fits into this category, but can garner stains from moisture.

Best for metal-heads: stainless steel, titanium. If you’re looking for a full-metal experience, both of these make for functional handles. However, stainless steel handles can become rather weighty. And though titanium is lighter, neither offer the in-hand warmth of other materials.

Best for fancy folks: carbon fiber, wood, bone. Carbon fiber is an excellent choice for lightweight handles. While formerly limited to high-priced knives, it’s now available on several budget-friendly models. Wood and bone are most often relegated to traditional knives, though there are exceptions from Helle and Opinel.

If you’re opting for a handle made with polymer or natural material, your knife will generally have liners. These bits of steel provide structural support and give your handle scales something to sit on. You’ll also find various posts and spacers along the back, which keep the scales from pinching down on the closed blade.

Sometimes, these are hollowed out to form a lanyard hole, allowing you to loop fabric through for decoration or added grip. This passes through both the flat side that usually bears the maker’s logo (the show side), and the opposite surface known as the clip side.

Types of Pocket Clips

And that brings us to one of the things that make pocket knives, well, pocketable. Pocket clips come in many forms, but the most popular terms you’ll see are these: deep carry, reversible, and tip up/tip down.

Deep carry fits its description. These clips allow the backend of the knife to rest near the top seam of your pocket, creating a more discrete appearance. But in general, most pocket clips allow at least a portion of the knife to be seen.

Reversible and tip up/tip down are different sides of the same coin (or knife). This means that the clip can be moved and repositioned, whether it be to suit a left-handed user or someone with a preference between having the knife’s stowed tip facing upward or downward in the pocket.

Here’s a hint for new knife folks: 99% of the time, tip up is significantly easier and safer, as the back of your pocket helps keep the blade closed.

Got all that? If not, there are plenty of ways to keep the terms fresh in your memory. One of the best is this visual aid from Knafs — a poster showing everything discussed here and more. And if all else fails, pull up reviews and discussions from YouTube.

But you don’t have to know any of this stuff in order to enjoy and use a pocket knife. The most important thing to keep in mind, as with all tools, is safety.

Know where your edge is pointing, what you intend to cut, and make sure your space is clear. And if you’re still unsure as to what you’re looking for in a blade, check out our guide on how to shop for your very first knife.

This is the video transcript. To watch the video for this episode click here.

GRANT: This time of year we receive a lot of images on social media and other ways from folks asking us to help them estimate a buck’s antler score. Tell you the truth, I’m not that good at it. I try to really focus on how old they are, and usually, the antlers are something I’d like to have at home. After that, I’m probably taking a shot if I agree he’s a certain age. But I have a friend, Richard Hale, that knows a lot about estimating and actually what buck’s score because Richard is the chair of Boone and Crockett’s Record Committee. And he’s a great hunter and been scoring racks forever. Richard thanks for joining us today.

RICHARD: Thank you Grant. It’s nice to be here.

GRANT: Rich – yeah. And Richard and I have hunted together and talked a lot about in the field – I’m talking boots in the ground experience. So, I want Richard to share some of the tips he’s developed through a career of hunting and serving with Boone and Crockett on helping us estimate a buck’s score before we pull the trigger.

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GRANT: Collecting the dark antlers do make every deer look larger. They just show up…

GRANT: Before sharing Richard’s techniques for estimating buck score in the field, I asked him to explain the Boone and Crockett’s scoring system.

RICHARD: Eh. For a Boone and Crockett’s score, the, the first measurement that’s taken is the length of the beam, which is measured from the outside edge of the main beam in line with the eye, around the back and out to the point. That’s one of the components of the score.

RICHARD: Another measurement that everybody is aware of is the inside spread, although, it’s often confused and just, it’s not the greatest spread – it’s the inside spread of the main beam.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: So, when we do that, that’s about…

GRANT: Let’s do this. So…

RICHARD: Your inside spread…

GRANT: So, we’re talking in here to in here.

RICHARD: Correct. And your inside spread is on average around, to, 10% of your score.

GRANT: 40% of a buck’s overall score on average is tine length. That’s where all the money is.

RICHARD: If you’ve got three points going up, you’re looking at a 10 point. If you’ve got four points going up, you’re looking at a 12 point.

GRANT: A great tip Richard shared about 10 pointers – three points on a side – is if there’s a difference between that G2 and G3 and a big step down to G4, it’s gonna hurt the overall score. But if a 10 pointer carries that G4 tine way out there and it sticks up high, that buck is probably gonna score fairly well.

RICHARD: Uh, the mass – which everybody likes, including me – the mass of these beams typically is about 20% of the score on, on a buck.

GRANT: Again, there’s four measurements – one measurement, two measurement, three measurements – halfway in between here – four measurement.

RICHARD: Now, another thing. You’ll see some tremendous trophy animals that have thick points, uh, and, and, I, I love those thick points. It has to be a sign of good nutrition – that’s a healthy animal just forming that. Unfortunately, the Boone and Crockett system does not in any way quantify that.

GRANT: So, Richard, this is the hunt I was on a couple years ago in Kentucky, and we’re gonna play it, and you can see what I saw live. I mean it came in. You know it was right over my shoulder.

RICHARD: This, this deer presents really well. It’s a nice looking buck. Uh, I, I noticed that it, first off it, it has a…

GRANT: Let’s roll the footage here. Let’s roll it so you’re going real time just like, like, (Inaudible).

RICHARD: Okay. Okay. So here’s the deer.

GRANT: Yeah.

RICHARD: You’re seeing a compact set of antlers. They’re not real wide – not, not really. It strikes you as a smaller deer. And then you start noticing that it’s got some point length and a pretty nice looking deer.

GRANT: Yeah, you taught us tine length is a big factor.

RICHARD: And this deer certainly has it. Um, so, my first number I’m going to throw out there – I’m going to say 138, just under 140 inches.

GRANT: Okay.

RICHARD: And then, you know I start thinking I’m a little off on this guy because he’s got tall 2s. He’s got good brows – not exceptional. He’s got really nice beams. You know, I may be five, seven points short on it – maybe 145-inch deer. Um, both the 2 and the 3 have curvature, and anytime you go around the curve you’re gaining length. So…

GRANT: Yeah, so like this right here.

RICHARD: Everything about those points is gonna measure better than your eye is telling you because your eye doesn’t pick up all that unless you’re really focused on it. So, when you see a deer with straight points, they’ll disappoint you in length. When you see a deer with a curved point or even a double – some of ‘em will curve in and then back out – those deer have long points. And with the curved beam, this deer is probably gonna be a 145-inch deer.

GRANT: You’ll notice that I actually passed this deer – certainly not ‘cause – I would’ve been proud to have those antlers on my wall. That’s a great set of antlers for me. But his body didn’t appear to be four years old. He’s sleek; his back is not sagging; his belly is not sagging. We’re not talking about aging right now, but I estimated this deer to be three years old.

GRANT: When a deer turns away – like it looks bigger there – it just gained 10 inches on me there.

RICHARD: Right. Well, part of it is you’re seeing that curvature.

GRANT: Right. It, it’s really not bigger folks but deer going away from you almost always look bigger and that gets some deer shot that shouldn’t be shot.

GRANT: Alright. So Richard here’s a different setup. This is actually at my place here at The Proving Grounds. Uh, one of my guests was hunting. And, of course, you get a situation like this. Maybe it’s wet – it looks kind of wet and damp – you don’t know there’s a deer coming, and it steps out all at once. I mean we’re talking now…

RICHARD: Right.

GRANT: …a few seconds to work. So, what’s going through your mind right off the bat? Let’s just go ahead and start this slide, Daniel; and Richard, you tell us what’s going through your mind. I see something you’ve taught us right off the bat – I’ll go before you start this. I see a big stair step here. I see – I can’t see the brow very good. Richard’s taught us to look at the brow.

RICHARD: Right.

GRANT: You tell me if I’m getting this right.

RICHARD: That’s correct.

GRANT: I can’t see the brow. Pretty decent G2; decent G3. I’m gonna say the G2 probably scores more – it’s a little bit longer…

RICHARD: Correct.

GRANT: … just because of the curvature of the beam.

RICHARD: It’s an inch and a half longer.

GRANT: Yeah, because the beam is going down – even though it look the same height here. But my G4 is one of those tiny points – inch or two.

RICHARD: Grant, that’s correct, and, I, those things jump out at me. Don’t see the brows. Usually, that’s a bad sign at this angle. We should see something if they were adequate length to score well. So, we’ve got a lot of negative factors on this deer just right off.

GRANT: Yep. And I just want to stress again. We’re not saying shoot, don’t shoot. This is all about helping you estimate the score of a buck in a hunting situation.

RICHARD: Exactly. It’s, it’s, no, it’s no issue at all whether you shoot this deer or not. I’m just trying to help you evaluate the deer to make your own decision.

GRANT: Okay, so let’s run this real time and go through it.

RICHARD: Okay.

GRANT: It’s just stepped out. Here we go.

RICHARD: So, Grant it, it seems like each thing against this deer works against it. You’ve got tiny brows – almost nonexistent – 4 on one side – no 4 on the other side. You’ve got light mass. This is not a deer that’s gonna score well.

GRANT: So, your quick estimate on this thing. He’s, he’s getting out of shot range real quick.

RICHARD: I’m, I’m thinking possibly 100 inches without doing any math. Just maybe 100, 100-inch deer.

GRANT: Yeah, yeah, 100, 110-inch deer.

RICHARD: Right. I’d say no more than 100. Easy.

GRANT: Well, it’s on my place, so I’m gonna give him 10. I’m just teasing you.

RICHARD: Well, I told Grant that. I said when a deer is on your property, you always have to deduct 10 inches because of your inherent enthusiasm.

GRANT: Richard, this was a hunt I was actually on here on my property. So, again, I’m biased. This drops off really steep, so I did not hear this deer coming. He’s actually out of bow range right now and he just stepped out in the field. So, you’re getting some of the first glances, just like I really did when this occurred.

RICHARD: Well, that, that’s, that’s a neat situation Grant. I see two things here off the bat – really three – that just strike you right off. One, is you got two points going up. You’re looking at, you’re looking at an eight point.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: So, the second thing I notice is that these beams come high off the head. I mean that, that’s remarkable. You know, most of ‘em will turn out to the sides Grant. But these are, these beams are coming high off the head. So, that’s telling you this, this deer is gonna fool you a little bit. Then you look up the beam just a little bit and you’re seeing – for a deer of this size – very good brow tines. They’ve got to be four inches. They might be four and a half. So, the deer is gonna score a little better than you think – um, probably 115-inch deer.

GRANT: Okay. Let’s roll it and see what we do now that we’re rolling.

RICHARD: Okay.

GRANT: This is what I’m seeing. I see that, and I go “Ooh, look at that tine length there.”

RICHARD: Right. You’ve got a great 2. That, that bumps a little bit. You know this deer may be getting close to 120. Um, mass is ordinary for a rack of this size. Um, but.

GRANT: So, what are you giving it on mass?

RICHARD: Fourteen.

GRANT: Fourteen. Fourteen on the side. So, we would double that, it’d be 28 inches.

RICHARD: 28. A lot of symmetry; not a lot of spread; probably 12 inches inside.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: Um, boy, look at that 2 now. That, that, that jumps out at you.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: Um, the deer has no odd unusual points; no breakage – uh, just, just, just a beautiful deer.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: Now, here, here’s a great picture, Grant, because this shows how, how tall beams will fool you. The beams come so high off the head that you look up the top of the 2, and it’s so far over the nose, that you’re thinking this is a giant deer.

GRANT: Right.

RICHARD: But as, as you go through your system, you realize that this is a young deer. It’s got a beautiful set of antlers. They’re not gonna score over 120 inches.

GRANT: Yup. So, I think that’s a critical point. This buck is what we call a high-rack buck. My generic term is a high-rack buck.

RICHARD: Right.

GRANT: And there’s only, again, eight scoreable points on here. It just doesn’t add up to much. This is nowhere close, folks. When I look at this right off the bat, I’m nowhere thinking 140, 150, 160. That’s not even in that world.

RICHARD: No, no.

GRANT: Yeah. But a great deer and got a lot of, a lot of room to grow.

RICHARD: I want to emphasize you want to look at this brow as soon as you get the chance. Because it’s the first point that goes away when there’s brush; there’s bad light; there’s a bad angle on the deer.

GRANT: Twisting around, can’t see it.

RICHARD: Right. It, it, when you get a chance to look at that brow, you want to look at it and then once you’ve done that, move on.

GRANT: Richard here’s a different situation. And, you know, I live in the Ozark Mountains. I have some food plots but there’s no ag fields around. A lot of guys hunt in places like I do. And we see deer in timber like this. I mean here’s the buck – a lot of people probably didn’t pick it up from home. You know, looking at the monitor here. But we can’t see a whole lot; we don’t get that perfect view. So, I want to play this real time, and you just start sharing with me what’s going on.

RICHARD: Okay Grant. Thank you.

GRANT: Okay, so here we go.

RICHARD: Uh, the first thing I would notice is you’re probably gonna hear this deer coming in these dry leaves. Is, so, I’m, I’m evaluating the deer before I can see it. Is it dragging its feet? An old buck will make more noise walking through the leaves when it’s on alert. It is, when its feet hit the ground, does it sound like a big deer? Um, and then you start seeing it. If you can’t see the antlers, start looking at the body. Gather, gather whatever information is presented itself to you because it may be all you’re gonna get.

RICHARD: So, you’ve got a missing brow. You really don’t have a G3 on the right beam – the deer, on the deer’s right beam…

GRANT: Yeah.

RICHARD: …what we’re seeing on the left side. You’ve got a non-typical point coming out of the base of, of the G2. Um. Nothing really extraordinary about this deer. It’s uh. If you had to put a number to this deer, you’re probably looking at 90, 90-inch deer.

GRANT: Yup. And I, I wanted to share this one because a lot of guys in the heat of the battle; coming through timber – branches, sticks, everything in the way, see this long tine, say, “Ooh, that’s a good deer.”

RICHARD: But, but you know a hunt like that Grant can be just as fun as a hunt for a giant deer, too. You know, you get an arrow through there and get it in the right spot, and that deer goes 30 yards and piles up, and you’ve had a great time.

GRANT: Well, Richard you’ve been in my shop. I’ve got a whole bunch of those out there, right? And I can re-tell and relive all those moments, my family enjoyed the venison. So again, not knocking a deer, but we get all these questions about, “What’s this buck’s score?” And I write folks back and I’ll say, you know, 110, whatever. And they go, “Oh no, it’s a 150-inch deer.” Well, I don’t want to hurt your feelings folks, but there’s some math to this, and Richard is here to tell us his formula of how that goes together.

GRANT: Richard this was a great hunt. This was actually my daughter, Raleigh. I’ve taught my kids – we’re all worried about age and, and then we’ll figure out the score later. But let’s look. A lot of hunters want to know the score. So, as we run this real time – because things happen quick here – I want you again to share with us what’s going through your mind.

RICHARD: First thing I would say here is you’re looking – it’s just great deer. You know, mature buck; big antlers. That’s just the first thing that pops in your mind.

GRANT: Okay.

RICHARD: And then you’re seeing it’s got three points up. Now, it’s going away. So, as you noted, when a deer is going away, it’s gonna look a little bigger. Right now you’re saying 150-inch deer. Uh, but then you put a little math to it. And you realize it’s a little short out on the 4s. Brows look good. Um, I’m, my feeling right now is that that buck’s gonna get away anyway because he’s, he’s moving right along and nobody’s shooting him.

RICHARD: Um. The buck has dark antlers. Dark antlers always show up better. Uh, they will, they will make you over judge ’em a little bit. So, you, you have to say that deer is a little less than 150. Um, you know, got good 2s – not exceptional; good 3s – not exceptional. Nice spread. Spread is probably 17 inch inside, average mass. This is just a great deer.

GRANT: Um-hm.

RICHARD: Um, if, to put a number to it at this point right now I’m gonna say it’s 140 plus.

GRANT: Okay.

RICHARD: Uh, it’s every bit of it. You know, that deer…

GRANT: So, let’s let this play out here. Raleigh finally gets him stopped – boom. Done. Hugging; celebrating and all that. I actually did put a tape on this deer – and I’m not saying I’m 100% accurate because I’m not a certified scorer. But I come up with like 142. You called this a low 140, so your field estimate was spot on.

RICHARD: Well, thank you, and what a beautiful deer.

RICHARD: Interesting thing about brow tines is they can be measured from the front or the back. So, you measure ‘em over the longest way. So you – sometimes you’ll see a deer that scores best coming up the front of one beam, and it will always, of course, score longest over the curve. With this one, it kind of has a double curve. And I don’t know, I’m gonna think the front. But what you know is this is a nice brow. It’s a very good brow for a good scoring deer. It’s, it’s approximately 5 inches, which is the norm on 140 to 160-inch deer.

GRANT: Richard, this is a little cheating for you because I was hunting with you on your farm. But this was a stranger deer to me. I didn’t see this deer ahead of time. I don’t think you showed me trail camera pictures or anything. So, I’m in a tree. Uh, but I want you to walk through when we start playing this. What’s going through your mind?

RICHARD: Okay.

GRANT: Alright, so this deer steps out. I’m a stranger now at a guest’s property. I don’t know this deer. So, what am I looking at Richard?

RICHARD: Well, when he was turned sideways, you noticed tall points right off.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: Beams come high off the head. It’s, it’s a five point on one side but four-typical on the other, so that’s gonna hurt the score.

GRANT: Right.

RICHARD: As he turns toward you, you notice that the brows are good – not exceptionally long. One of ‘em appears to be split on the right. Um, and the tall points strike you again and the spread of about – it’s gonna be just under 16 inches.

GRANT: Okay.

RICHARD: So, those are the things I noticed. And then now – as the deer is turning his head there, look at that G2 on the left. That, that G2 is probably over 12 inches long but not 13 – matched pretty closely on the other side — just a real nice looking deer. Um, the 4 is a little weak. It’s gonna keep it from scoring real well, and it’s non-existent on the other side. A little odd point going off the left G2. Um, a great deer. I’m gonna say that, again, that deer is gonna come in there low 140s. And I don’t remember. I’m sure we probably scored it at the time. But low 140s kind of deer. The beams aren’t exceptional. Also, it’s a mature buck.

GRANT: Yeah.

RICHARD: Being a mature buck, you know, certainly something in that size range, a person would want to consider harvesting.

GRANT: Yeah. Uh, I don’t remember exactly – several years ago since Richard allowed me to have this hunt. But I believe it was like 149 kind of high one 140s- gross score, gross score.

RICHARD: That could have been. I may have been a little low on it. Um.

GRANT: It had a kicker, also, coming off that you didn’t address. So we gained two or three inches off that one side there.

RICHARD: Right.

GRANT: When you start going through the math – and Richard is giving us some great points. Okay. Average beams – 20; start adding if they’re exceptional.

RICHARD: Right.

GRANT: Taking off if they’re less; spread 15 – unless it’s really exceptional or really narrow. Mass, we’re gonna call an average good buck…

RICHARD: 17, 18 inches.

GRANT: 17 inches on a side. So we double that. We’re 36, 37 inches, somewhere in there. Okay? You starting doing the math, and all of a sudden they starts coming down a little bit.

RICHARD: That’s right. It’s a, it’s a numeric thing.

GRANT: Richard, years ago there was a buck on our property that was a clean 12 pointer. And, and I had watched him all summer through trail camera pictures, video. And I just knew this was a good deer.

RICHARD: Hmm. Hmm.

GRANT: And sure enough in October, I saw this deer moving through the woods, and I grunted, and of course he’s shed out velvet now, and he comes up, and I make a great shot, and he piles up, and I get down there. My heart just sunk because I had memories of velvet score basically in my head, and when I got the real antlers in my hand…

GRANT: Based on his experience, Richard shared that when the velvet is removed off antlers, the score can decrease by 10 to 20%. Summertime bucks – when that velvet is really full and looking big – gosh, we can easily overestimate the score by 20%.

GRANT: Richard, this has been great because you’ve taught me a lot and I’ve been doing this a long time. I’m sure you’ve helped everyone at home. But, but summarize with just, again, your overall quick field judging tips, so they can use this in their situation. ‘Cause they’re not seeing it on a video. They can’t play it back five times like we can. They’re making a five-second decision.

RICHARD: Right.

GRANT: So, we’re looking at a deer. Kind of let’s – what’s the first thing you’re thinking?

RICHARD: I’m looking at a big, mature deer with what I consider a large set of antlers. You don’t, you don’t see anything wrong with it. Uh, so, you, you throw out a number. You’re gonna say 160-inch deer. Then, the next thing I would look at – I would try to get a little numerical about it to see if this actually is a really good scoring deer.

GRANT: Hmm. Hmm.

RICHARD: The, the first thing I notice is the spread. The spread is just ordinary for a big deer. You know 18, 18-1/2 inches inside – nothing exceptional about the beams – not exceptionally short or long – just a great looking deer.

RICHARD: So, next I’m gonna look at mass – 20% of the score. And I’m gonna call that average mass for a 160-inch deer.

GRANT: Yup.

RICHARD: So, we’re gonna call it 18 inches per side.

GRANT: Seconds are ticking away. What’s the next thing you’re looking at here?

RICHARD: Grant, Grant, the next thing I’m looking at is, is the beams. And, again, the beams are just exactly what you want to see on a 160-inch deer. They come high off the head; they, they go out; they turn back in a little bit at the tips. They don’t strike you as extraordinarily long, but they’re, they’re solid, so you’re, your just gonna say 25 inches. Um, and that’s…

GRANT: And that’s per side, per beam.

RICHARD: Correct, yeah. The brow on the deer’s left antler is short. There’s just no question about it. It’s two to three inches. It really needs to be close to six inches to get a big score out of that deer.

RICHARD: Then we get to the 4s, and you’re thinking those 4s are good. They’re gonna offset the brows a little bit because they’re close to seven inches.

GRANT: Yeah. And you like anything over six inches on the 4s.

RICHARD: Five to six inches is gonna put you in that 160 inch range. So, um, all in all, I’d, I’d just stick with that number. You know, it’s a 160-inch deer – give or take two inches – and, and really a beautiful, big deer, so.

GRANT: Yeah, yeah. And so, this is just a great example. You know, if you’re hunting 150-, 160-inch deer – this is actually ended up being 160 and a little change. This is what you want to see. You want to see that spread Richard talked about; that mass. And really importantly, that tine length.

GRANT: Richard, you’ve spent a lifetime hunting deer, just like I have, and you’ve really specialized in the antler score. Your contributions to Boone and Crockett Club and whatnot. So, you actually donated a chapter to this book. You contributed a chapter just really highlighting in greater detail than what we shared today – all your field estimating tips.

RICHARD: Yes I did. Thank you.

GRANT: Yeah.

RICHARD: And there’s also some other methods outlined in there in one or two other chapters, um, which, which have merits of their own, so.

GRANT: Yeah.

RICHARD: Just because this is how I do it, doesn’t mean it’s, it’s the only way or even the best way.

GRANT: Yeah. So I would do what I do. If you’re into this stuff, go to Boone and Crockett’s website, get a copy of this book, and really study it before you get into the field this fall.

GRANT: Richard, it’s hard to do, but you’ve changed my opinion on a few things today. So thanks for being patient with me and giving me time. And I really look forward to hunting with you again this fall.

RICHARD: Great. Thank you Grant; enjoyed it.

GRANT: Hey, if you’d like to visit in person about food plots, habitat management, estimating a buck’s age or score, I’ll be at the Springfield Bass Pro store August 19th from 10:00 to 5:00. I’ll probably spend most of my time in the hunting department, and I look forward to visiting with you there.

GRANT: Daniel and I are blessed to have an elk hunt scheduled about a month and a half from now. And I’m super excited and preparing for that hunt. But it’s just as important that I slow down every day and enjoy Creation and take time and listen to what the Creator is saying to me. I hope you do the same. Thanks for watching GrowingDeer.

My flashlight lit up the narrow trail I hacked days earlier down to a wetland edge. The whitetails I targeted followed it with the regularity of New York City subway commuters. I stopped just short of the main trail and yanked a bottle of estrus-based doe urine from my pocket. With its misting nozzle I aimed for some nose-level vegetation on both sides of the trail and hazed the area lightly with scent.

As I climbed into my treestand in the predawn, I felt good that any buck passing would pause for a second, giving me precious seconds to draw and settle my Mathews bow for a successful hunt.

Some of you, firearm or archery hunters, probably question my decision to use scents. I know a handful of outfitters who flatly decline to allow the use of scent around their stands for fear of spooking deer. I don’t blame them. Cheap scents, poorly-executed deployment or lackadaisical scent control on your behalf all could lead to a whitetail spooking or worse, associating the smell with a trap.

One outfitter even told me of a hunter using a whole bottle to soak up a half dozen or more scent wicks that he hung like Christmas ornaments around his stand. He found them the next time he put a different hunter in that stand. It might have worked, but likely would raise white tails in alarm rather than stirring curiosity.

The use of deer scents can be a boon to your hunt, but only if you use them right.

PREPARE

To ensure you can get your scent positioned appropriately in shooting lanes, you need a plan. Begin by clearing paths to and from shooting lanes that you can use, thus avoiding direct travel on deer travel routes. Despite your best efforts to be scent free with clothes laundering, rubber boot usage and spraying down with scent-eliminating products, you still likely leave a bit of you on every branch you brush by. Your boots may even be spreading a bit of you on the ground.

How do I know? Coyotes give me the best gauge of my scent-elimination success. Whenever a coyote slips through the brush and crosses one of my access routes, I watch them for a reaction. Most of the time they hit a wall and slink out like a scolded dog, or worse yet, turn and flee. I rate a coyote’s sniffer one notch above a deer, but a buck could react the same way if you’re careless.

By avoiding the main trails and pruning access routes to shooting lanes from your stand, you avoid leaving any scent where you hope to shoot a deer. Clear and trim vegetation so you can move back and forth to your shooting lane without anything touching your clothes. Only your boots should hit the ground and those should be scent free as well. And as noted earlier, you simply use a mist or spray dispenser to lay a fog of spray where you hope to stop a buck for the shot.

You never have to step into a shooting lane and you can glass for spot-on accuracy. I follow this routine when hunting with my bow, even when I’m carrying my muzzleloader into dense cover.

This corridor-clearing chore should be done in the preseason, and at the same time you may want to create a mock scrape  for the perfect shot placement. Your goal is to create a primary scrape, one that gets attention, so scrape out plenty of dirt area. Deer love to scrape in areas with little vegetation, so make it easy on them and clear a wide area to reveal black earth. You can even mix in some deer urine for deep-earth penetration.

And to continue interest in the scrape, use a dripper to disperse scent. Models that heat up and open during the day to release scent, then shut down at night when it’s cool, fake the impression of daytime deer visits. If your trickery works, bucks will take over the scrape and eventually you won’t need to add any scent at all. Deer will provide their own scent distraction while you focus on shooting from a nearby hide.

PURCHASE

Picking out a deer scent from dozens of choices is about as confusing as trying to purchase the right perfume for the leading lady in your life. Do your research. You want to purchase high-quality, fresh scent, not leftovers from last year as they could break down and spook deer.

Some manufacturers claim their urine is from a single doe or buck. Others mix and match while some even have concocted synthetic versions. If your budget allows, go with those that fill bottles from a single deer, but truth be known, most of my experience with scents is with bottles filled in community whitetail restrooms.

As long as the urine smells fresh and doesn’t have an ammonia tinge to it you should be OK. As you shop look for bottles that dispense with a misting nozzle to deposit a diversion in shooting lanes. If you’re re-filling mock scrape dispensers no mister is needed. Keep any purchase cool and out of direct sunlight.

As for what scent to use, I’ve never really seen a huge difference. Straight buck or doe urine can sidetrack a buck, or doe during any season. I’ve used estrus-based scents from September through December with similar, curious results. If you believe an estrus scent could spook a buck in the early season, save it for the rut.

My entire theory on scents is to use them as a minor distraction to pause a buck where I want him to stop. After more than 30 years of hunting whitetails from Canada to Texas and points East and West, I’ve only had a handful of experiences where whitetails actually followed a drag or picked up a scent wafting on a breeze. Most stumbled upon it right where I placed it and paused out of curiosity. If it was the right buck it was the end of the story.

PLACEMENT

Despite nearly 30 years of having most bucks ignore my wafting wicks and drags, I still go through the drag-rag motion from time to time. Nevertheless, my true passion and success is with the simple placement of scent via a spritz or freshening of a mock scrape. When a buck is distracted with one of these scent traps, it’s less likely to see me drawing my bow or raising my rifle.

During the hunt, I prefer to stay away from shooting lanes. As described earlier, I try to stand a few feet away from a shooting zone and mist scent into the area. Lean out to where you want a buck to pause at your ambush site and apply the aroma of whitetail with a spray.

Sounds easy, but you need to place it correctly. Whether you spray or use a wick my experience has been it needs to be a nose level. I’ve sprayed and dribbled scent on trails only to have deer disregard it and walk over it like trash on a city boulevard. Wicks and spray dispensed at deer-nose level receive attention. It’s the sector they’re surveying as they travel, and that’s even more important during the rut as bucks pick up the pace — even trotting between ridges. They’re not as perceptive as you’ve read when on the hunt for a hot doe.

If you do need to freshen a scrape or refill a dispenser during the hunt, wear scent-free footwear. Splashing in mud or water on the way to your stand can help in adding natural cover scent to the tread. Also don latex gloves as you handle dispensers to avoid leaving any traces of you at the scrape. If a buck reaches up to rub its preorbital gland and suddenly smells the McMuffin you had an hour earlier it could lead to a string-jumping ending.

An hour after sunrise, a brawny whitetail buck I knew from trail cameras circled the wetland before me. I had a hunch his circle would end right under my stand and a few minutes later the scattering of does signaled his approach. Like a scripted movie he came down the trail and paused to investigate the scent I had sprayed two hours prior. Totally immersed in the olfactory delight, I was able to draw my Mathews and send an arrow off for an ending to my season that had the smell of success.