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Top 10 Best Rated Work Boots For Standing Long Hours On Hard Concrete Surfaces

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Welcome to our best work boots for standing and working on concrete floors review for 2022 (updated for 2024).

To bring you this article we’ve researched 68 websites looked at 22 work boots brands and models, read 100s of reviews and customer feedback for a total amount of 41 hours.

We’ve done all of this in order to bring you the best information about working on concrete surfaces and the best boots and features to look out for when shopping in this sector.

Alright, let’s go into it…

Compare these 10 comfortable concrete work boots

Here’s a quick comparison table if you’re curious about which work boots we’ve included in our round-up.

Reviews of the best concrete work boots for walking and standing all day

Alright, let’s jump into some detailed reviews of each one of these concrete work boots we’ve included in today’s round-up.

We’ll start with the one that our editor picked for you …

1. Thorogood Wedge Sole

These are the best work boots for people who want a short, six-inch pair of work boots for walking on concrete.

These boots are also made in the USA, so if supporting American jobs and families is important to you, then this is the pair of American-made work boots in this roundup.

They also feature a wedge sole. Wedge sole work boots are work boots that have a larger surface area at the bottom than heel or arch boots.

The advantage of this when working on concrete is that far more of the work boot is in contact with the ground at any one point while you are walking around.

This reduces the potential shock to your feet when you are walking around. This makes it our #1 choice for walking around on concrete, as well as the best US-made work boot.

If you are a fan of this brand then why not go and check out this great Thorogood work boots reviews round up article where you’ll find a lot more models similar to this one!?

2. Wolverine Overpass

Wolverine has been in the work boot business for decades, and they have over 200 products in their range.

So for us to say this is the best Wolverine product for concrete work in their extensive range is quite the compliment.

Weighing just 1.75 pounds per boot, your feet will feel much lighter in these boots than other brands, preventing you from exhausting yourself on the concrete surfaces.

Don’t think the lightweight means these boots are less safe. The boots meet all the requisite safety standards that you would expect from other boots in the sector.

And for working on concrete, this work boot contains an Ortholite cushioned footbed which delivers a combination of temperature regulation and comfort.

Perfect for absorbing shocks when you are working on concrete.

Plus, the flexible, athletic Contour Welt construction moves with you by bending and flexing at essential points, preventing the build-up of long-term pains and sprains.

And the slip-resistant soles also mean you won’t have to worry too much about falling over whilst on the worksite, even if you’re working in an environment with a lot of oil or slippery liquids.

So no need to worry about falling on that hard concrete floor. Check out this page if you’re still wondering if Wolverine work boots are any good. We went deep into researching this brand!

  • Read My Full Review Of The Wolverine Overpass Work Boots

3. Ariat Rebar Flex

The ARIAT Men’s Rebar Flex 6″ H2o is the best composite toe work boot if you are in the construction trade and you need to work on concrete

This work boot features superb lightweight flexibility and supportive cushioning, with a 4LR footbed that keeps your feet cushioned and cool.

This makes them an ideal choice for outdoor construction workers worried about sweaty feet giving them a condition such as an athlete’s foot.

Made from waterproof leather combined with rugged mesh panels, these boots are highly durable and will protect your feet from the elements in harsh weather conditions, always assuring dry comfort.

So they are perfect for outdoor construction workers who work long days on concrete.

4. Skechers

The synthetic sole in these Skechers work boots makes it the ideal work boot for providing your feet with support and comfort whilst working on hard concrete surfaces.

And what’s even better is they are made from 100% leather, allowing your feet to breathe easily with those soft leather uppers.

People who have bought these boots have been delighted by how the memory foam insoles keep your feet ventilated with every step, allowing them to keep cool during every step.

Here’s a wider selection of great work boots to keep your feet dry and ventilated on summer days.

5. Heritage Classic

Red Wing is an excellent manufacturer of workboots who make all of their products in the USA and also run an in-house repair shop.

This means you can send your boots to them for repair for less than the cost of buying a new one, saving money, supporting cobblers, and preventing materials waste.

So if avoiding waste, shopping sustainably, and supporting American families is important to you, then Red Wing boots are the ones to buy.

The durability of the Red Wing work boots is great for most jobs that require you to stand or walk on concrete surfaces a lot.

Working on concrete does lead to work boots deteriorating more quickly- since the hard surface causes the boots to absorb a lot of shocks.

But people who bought this work boot have been delighted with how long it lasts.

Plus, for comfort, the full-grain leather that the upper boot is made from wicks away water, keeping your feet dry in treacherous conditions.

Nonetheless, the breathable membranes wick away internal moisture, keeping the inside of your boots cool and dry on a hot summer day.

6. Danner Bull Run

Danner has an extensive range of hundreds of products, from work boots to hiking and much much more.

However the Bull Run 6” work boot is the best of the best from within their range.

The boot contains a wedge sole, ensuring your weight is evenly distributed across your feet when you are working on concrete floors- reducing the risks of knee, feet, and ankle pains.

And the uppers are also made from durable, oiled full-grain upper leather for maximum comfort and durability.

Finally, it features a steel shank. This will minimize your risk of injury on the job by protecting your feet from punctures and giving them adequate support as you walk around.

Find out here if Danner’s work boots are worth the money and other cool details about the brand.

Also, we’ve put together a list of some of the best soft toe work boots here (in case you want to see what other alternatives to this Danner work boot model you can find out there)

Anyway, here’s some good and bad things about this boot…

7. Irish Setter

If you want to look like John Wayne on the worksite, the Irish Setter work boots are the most comfortable western work boots for concrete.

The heat-resistant outsole will keep your feet cool even as the concrete becomes baked in the hot outdoor sun.

It also possesses heat and electric resistant outsole that can withstand external temperatures of 475 degrees Fahrenheit and 18,000-volt shocks respectively.

Further, the 12-inch shaft measuring from the arch gives you the maximal support you need to take on the working day.

Finally, it features groundbreaking RPM technology, a breakthrough material that significantly reduces the weight of the boot, without compromising on the essential features of a work boot that keep you safe.

Want more models? Check out our top 10 best pull on work boots that you can compare with this Irish Setter boot…

8. Timberland PRO

The best pair of leather work boots from Timberland for concrete workers that we have to recommend for you is the Timberland PRO Drivetrain work boot.

These boots are simply amazing, from tough toe materials to breathability, it has it all.

This boot uses the toughest material there is, TPU, for the toe overlay, complimenting the composite toe cap for a lightweight but still very protective experience.

The outsole of the boot also uses polyurethane, which is a variant of TPU, one of the tougher materials companies are using to toughen up the soles of their boots.

The Timberland Pro Drivetrain contains an antimicrobial moisture-wicking lining, that prevents odors from lingering in the boot, keeping the feet of the users nice and fresh. It is an extremely breathable design.

And users simply love the fact that it barely weighs anything, with so many of them comparing wearing these boots to wearing basketball or tennis shoes.

The lightweight makes it ideal for walking on concrete, reducing the pressure on your feet and knees as you are walking around.

9. Merrell Men’s Moab 2

The Merrell Men’s Moab 2 Mid Waterproof Hiking Boot is the right boot for the job if you are working in hot weather.

It contains lightweight, breathable mesh uppers with abrasion-resistant synthetic overlays. These breathable mesh uppers provide increased ventilation and comfort.

It also features an abrasion-resistant synthetic overlay that helps protect your work boots against the wear and tear of a modern worksite.

As well as keeping your feet cool in hot weather, these work boots are also waterproof, and so they are ideal for outdoor workers in rainy cities.

Another awesome aspect of this product is the contoured footbeds that cradle your feet to keep them comfortable all day long.

The Merrell air cushion in the heel absorbs shock while providing stability on uneven terrain.

10. Carhartt

If you’re working on cold concrete surfaces, then this work boot is ideal for you.

Carhartt boots are specially designed for you to work in hard winter conditions. They pride themselves on the highest standards of design and componentry to ensure that you’re able to do your work safely no matter the conditions in comfort and style.

Safety for Carhartt is a top priority. Their composite (non-metallic) toe cap will protect you from dropped objects of up to 125 joules (or the equivalent of 22.7kg dropped from 56cm).

Their toe protection also extends to electrical shocks, offering protection against incidental shocks of up to 18,000 joules under dry conditions.

This makes these boots suitable for electricians and engineers as well as bricklayers and other construction professionals.

But it’s not just your toes that the Carhartt Men’s 10″ Waterproof Insulated PAC Composite Toe Boot is designed to keep you safe.

The TPU heel guard with Achilles flex joint will offer support to your arched feet, allowing you to work confidently without needing to worry about collapsed arches and other forms of long-term feet condition that might develop.

And the insulative LiteFire membrane keeps your feet dry and protects them from extreme weather conditions like rain or snow whilst also promoting airflow.

So your feet will remain warm and dry, avoiding both frostbite and athlete’s foot.

Overall, we strongly recommend that if you are working on concrete during periods of extreme cold, you invest in this pair of boots.

You will feel warm, dry, comfortable, and safe no matter the weather if you have these work boots on. Here’s our best winter work boots page in case you want to see more models for the cold season.

This section of the article will tell you about the dangers for workers on working on concrete for lengthy periods of time, as well as what features to look out for in a pair of work boots for a comfortable, pain-free experience.

The dangers of working on concrete floors for long hours

Working on concrete for long hours can be very dangerous. Concrete is a tough, unforgiving surface that will cause pain and discomfort if you are not careful when working it.

This is why we’re going to look at some of the dangers of working on concrete for too long.

1. Trips and Falls

One of the worst things about working on concrete for long hours is the risk of falling down and hurting yourself.

Concrete, unlike grass or carpeted floors, is unforgiving.

This means a fall onto concrete from any height can result in serious injury or death.

This is particularly dangerous for professionals in construction; who according to the Occupational Safety and Health Administration face twice as many deaths per capita as any other private sector occupation.

But even for workers in warehouses or other professions not involving high altitudes, slipping onto the surface can be a painful experience.

2. Feet Pain

Plantar Fasciitis is a condition that leads to pain at the point where your heel bone connects with the arch.

It can come as a result of working too much on concrete surfaces as they are inflexible, leading to unnatural pronation. Discover here if work boots can cause you plantar fasciitis.

3. Knee pain

Without rest, the knee joints can become excessively strained as a result of being over-worked

This can lead to the knees feeling stuck or tight.

In extreme instances, this can even lead to osteoarthritis.

4. Back pain

Working on concrete for long hours can lead to permanent spinal damage.

This is because concrete is a hard material, and when you’re constantly using your back muscles to work on it, it can become strained or overworked.

As a result, the discs between your vertebrae start to bulge out from their normal position due to the pressure put on them- causing lower back pain.

What you could do to avoid health problems whilst standing or walking on concrete for long hours

Walking and standing on concrete for a long period of time is, unfortunately just a fact of life for many workers, whether on construction sites, in warehouses, or people delivering the post.

There are three main things you can do to avoid health problems from this

Firstly, before starting work and during break times, it is worth doing some stretching exercises with your feet, such as ankle rolls, calf stretches, and touching your toes. This will keep your feet and legs flexible and supple for the long day of work ahead.

Losing weight can also be helpful. This will reduce the load on your knees and feet when you are standing or walking all day.

Finally, buying supportive work boots with features that will ease the strain on your feet and knees is the best thing you can do to avoid health problems. These features will be mentioned just below…

Features to look for in a good work boot for standing all day on concrete

If you’re a worker who spends long periods of time on concrete work surfaces, then buying a good pair of work boots is essential for preventing pains and long-term conditions.

This section of the buyer’s guide will inform you as to what to look out for in a work boot for standing all day on concrete, as well as some additional products you can purchase.

1. Comfort

Comfort is absolutely crucial when you are purchasing work boots and additional products. There are things you should look out for when it comes to comfort, both in the work boot and as an additional product.

2. Shock absorbing footbeds

Shock-absorbing footbeds or ‘insoles’ are great additional products.

They will provide your feet with cushioning and support, and also prevent unhealthy pronation (how feet roll to absorb shock when walking).

One particularly effective product is Dr. Scholl’s Massaging Gel Insoles, which are clinically proven to relieve pain by workers.

They provide excellent cushioning, so it’s almost like you are walking on pillows.

3. Cushioned midsoles

As well as inserts, a good midsole is crucial to having a comfortable work boot.

The midsole is the bit of the work boot between the outsole on the bottom and the upper.

Making sure the midsole is well-cushioned will allow for ample shock absorption, flex support and will support good pronation.

4. Slip resistant outsoles

Hopefully, the concrete work surface you are working on is even, however, there may occasionally be spills, or if you are working outdoors and it starts to rain, then you can slip and seriously hurt yourself.

To prevent this, the outsole, the part of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground, needs to be made from a non-slip material.

Soft rubber will be able to grab hold of a slippery concrete surface whereas boots with a harder, stiffer outsole would not be able to.

5. Wedge soles

People often find wedge sole work boots, of which there are a couple in this roundup, most comfortable for working on concrete surfaces.

By spreading the surface area in contact with the ground more broadly, and having a wider area in play, distributes the force of the impact more than a typical boot sole.

So workers in construction, factories, warehouses, or garages find wedge soles more comfortable than boots with an arch.

6. Material

Leather is the best material for working on concrete as it is resistant to water and dust, making it ideal for concrete workers who work in construction or development.

Leather boots in general have a good combination of grip, stability, comfort, and durability, making them ideal for workers on concrete surfaces.

7. Brand

The benefit of a good brand of work boots is that they signify trust and innovation.

These brands will invest millions into research and development so as to make more effective products.

You can also find out more information more easily than for small independent manufacturers, such as the manufacturing process and how other customers found wearing the work boots.

Brands are often able to give great deals on warranties and returns owing to the volume of trade that they do.

The downside to brands is they may cost more. (But you’ll look more fashionable :D) Also, make sure these brands really do have the cutting-edge features they promise before paying out the extra $$.

Benefits of wearing a good work boot whilst working on concrete floors

The benefits of a good pair of work boots for people who work or move on concrete surfaces are comfort, the prevention of developing feet pains, and good support/ traction for the avoidance of more serious injuries.

Concrete Work Boots Q&A

Have questions about buying work boots for concrete you are too afraid to ask your supervisor?

Have no fear, this section of the article will address some of the most common queries users have had about concrete, comfort, and work boots.

Do all work boots for concrete have steel toe?

No, many of the work boots in this roundup have a soft toe or a synthetic toe.

What is the most durable work boot outsole for concrete?

For concrete surfaces, dense molded rubber is the most durable outsole material available.

A nice thick rubber will absorb the shock from walking on concrete to a much greater extent than other materials.

And it will also last longer due to the dense rubber being more durable than synthetic outsoles.

Why do your Feet hurt after Walking on Concrete?

The lack of flexibility of concrete floors, compared to say grass or carpets, creates muscle wear as a result of the shock being felt in the bones. Across the tendons, these shocks will result in pains, aches, and sores.

Your ankle also can feel pain as the ankle is a collection of bones. Think of it like shaking pebbles together in a rigid plastic bag.

Since many shoes encourage us to walk with our heels, this can exacerbate the problem.

Final Verdict On The Best Work Boots For Concrete

In our opinion, the best work boots for concrete are the Thorogood Maxwear.

This work boot contains the best in supportive technology, pain reduction, and cushioning.

Ensuring you can get a good day’s work done without having to worry about long-term feet pain, or tripping and falling over on the concrete.

Those are common dangers of working on concrete, and if you are spending long hours on the hard surface, you need to make sure that you are protecting yourself with a high-quality pair of work boots.

Wedge soles are good, but high-quality tread can also make all the difference.

As can a good internal cushion in the work boot, a steel shank, and a breathable leather design.

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40mm vs. 50mm Scope: Which is Better for You?

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You might be wondering why we need different sizes in scopes. Does a slight 10mm difference between the two scopes matter?

That’s a good question.

You won’t see the difference if you just put a 40mm and 50mm scope side by side aside from the slight size contrast between the two.

Thus, I compared the 40mm vs 50mm scope to know which one is better for you!

40mm Scope Overview

40mm scope

When we talk about 40mm, it refers to the objective lens size of your scope.

This lens size can give you a smaller, lighter, and more compact scope tube diameter for your rifle.

I personally like using a 40mm scope because a light transmission at this scope size is already good, especially in brighter contact.

In fact, I can make its performance even better by adding a high-quality glass coating.

You can commonly see a scope with the 40mm objective with the following magnification ranges:

  • 3-9x
  • 9-25x
  • 4.5-14x
  • 4-12x

50mm Scope Overview

50mm scope

I used to think that a larger objective lens meant clearer and sharper target images.

However, even a smaller objective lens with better glass quality and coating can beat a bigger one!

So, having a bigger lens diameter does not necessarily mean an immediate edge.

A 50mm objective lens already lets me see a target BRIGHTLY in a low-light environment.

It also provides good and bright image quality even at a longer distance.

In my experience, a 50mm scope has helped me ACE every shot in all my different shooting activities.

Just like the 40mm, you must complement the advantage of a 50mm scope lens with a high-quality lens coating and glasses.

40mm vs. 50mm: What’s the Difference?

40mm vs 50mm

You will not know the difference between a 40mm vs. 50mm lens if you don’t look through the scope’s ocular glass lens.

I used to think bigger is always better regarding objective lenses.

But the comparison between the two revolves around which one can give my naked eye BETTER image quality.

Everyone views their optics differently, and it does NOT depend on the size alone.

The scope glass quality can also help provide better image sharpness and brightness, even if the scope size is smaller.

I’ll compare these scope sizes in different essential categories in the scope world.

Intended Use

The kind of shooting or hunting you will do is important!

For example, if you plan to hunt in the day when light won’t be a problem, a smaller objective lens will suffice.

On the other hand, low-light hunting situations require a larger objective lens to let enough light enter the scope.

WINNER: It depends.

Size

Obviously, 40mm is a smaller objective lens than 50mm.

Thus, it provides you with a lower mount profile for better and more comfortable aiming.

Meanwhile, the 50mm objective lens gathers MORE light and gives additional adjustment clicks for shooters.

However, eye alignment and aiming comfortability might be an ISSUE for some of them.

WINNER: 40mm

Weight Consideration

Since a 40mm objective lens is smaller, it is LIGHTER than a 50mm one.

It only adds a little to your rifle’s total weight.

I preferred moving around with the 40mm scope than the 50mm since I didn’t have to carry too much weight.

A wider objective lens like the 50mm gives EXTRA weight to your rifle scope. Thus, I would not recommend it in this situation.

WINNER: 40mm

Magnification Power

With high-quality glass and coating, a 50mm objective lens diameter can already give you a bright image.

A wide objective lens no longer requires much magnification.

This is especially when you need better sight at a distance in LOW LIGHT. Thus, having a 50mm objective lens is better for a long-range scope.

It is a different story for a 40mm scope lens.

You must mostly use magnification to get a better image quality, especially when aiming at darker times and locations.

WINNER: 50mm

Exit Pupil

A LARGER exit pupil size makes BRIGHTER images.

The exit pupil is the diameter of light that passes through the objective lens to your eyes. It is placed at the back of the eye relief, the closest to the human pupil.

Thus, a 50mm scope has a bigger objective lens, therefore, a bigger exit pupil size than the 40mm one.

You can have brighter images in this manner because MORE light transmission via a larger exit pupil size gets to your naked eye.

WINNER: 50mm

Resolution

Unlike the exit pupil, the resolution does not solely depend on the size of objective lenses.

A bigger objective size is useless if your scope has bad lens coating and glass quality.

The 50mm diameter lens for rifle scopes already provides a brighter image than the 40mm.

But, the latter can still offer a better-aiming image if it is higher in quality than the former.

WINNER: 50mm

Frequently Asked Questions

Armed soldier

You may still be curious about this scope size comparison and other relevant information. Check out more details on some common questions below.

Is a 50mm Scope Better Than 40mm?

A 50mm scope for rifles is better than a 40mm one, but not in all contexts.

If both have similar accessories and parts, the 50mm rifle scope lens is surely better.

But, it is NOT ALWAYS the case if the 40mm objective lens has better accompaniments.

Regardless of size, your scope will reflect light and cause lens flare if it has a low coating and glass quality.

Thus, you should gather good parts for your scope and make it a COMPLETE PACKAGE.

It may cost more, but it is worth it!

What Scope Is Best for 50 Yards?

The 40mm diameter lens is better for close-distance shooting, like at 50 yards.

A 50 mm diameter lens is suitable for wider field shooting and has more features. However, it does not necessarily mean it is also good at any distance.

Short-range shooting requires smaller guns, and smaller lenses are more compatible.

The 40mm diameter lens is also light for fast movements, aiming, and shooting at a close distance.

Is a 3-9×40 Scope Good for Hunting?

Yes! I have a lot of scopes with this magnification and diameter, and my hunting is always efficient!

This scope model gives you a sense of versatility for short-range and longer-distance shooting.

It provides accurate short-range shots of small to medium-sized animals.

The same applies to lesser accuracy issues in longer-distance firing due to its high magnification range.

So yes, a 3-9×40 scope is GREAT for your hunting activities!

Final Verdict: Which Is Better to Use?

If you look at these categories, there is not much difference.

But in similar parts like the glass and coating quality, I have to give the win to the 50mm objective lens over the 40mm.

Thus, this gives you more choices in buying rifle scopes.

Do you want to choose a 40mm and add good rifle scope parts? You may want to maximize a 50mm diameter advantage with the best available parts.

Conclusion

Two soldiers

You should not focus much on the bigger objective diameter size but on the other accessories in your rifle scope as well!

There are MORE factors to be considered, not just the lens size of rifle scopes.

A 50mm is greater than a 40mm as the former has more advantages.

Yet, gearing the latter with better parts like good lens coating and glass quality can still take the win.

In other words, you should gather the best parts to have the best rifle scope.

Turkey Legs Tell the Tale of Our Unsung Tendons

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Most of us omnivores eschew turkey tendons, the elastic strands that get in the way of a forkful of pure dark- or light-meat delight. For a team of Brown University researchers, however, these dinner discards are providing some new insights into how our bodies move and protect important muscle fibers.

High-impact activities, such as hiking down a mountain, can be hard on our muscles, as the hard shock of landings damages fibers (fascicles) during descent.

Muscles, however, are not acting alone, it turns out. “We used to think that all of the motion of the body could be explained from the action of our muscle motors,” Thomas Roberts, an associate professor of biology at Brown and co-author of the study, said in a prepared statement. “It is becoming increasingly apparent that springy tendons are a big part of what makes us go.” And what help us stop, according to the new turkey research, published online Tuesday in Proceedings of the Royal Society B.

Turkeys happen to have a similar muscle and tendon structure in their legs as humans do, even though their knees bend the opposite way. So the researchers dropped half a dozen wild turkeys (Meleagris gallopavo) and used high-speed sensors and cameras to observe their landings. How do you drop a 9.5-pound turkey, scientifically? The birds were placed in harnesses, lifted 1.5 meters into the air and then released (a height from which, the researchers noted, “the animals were able to land safely, repeatedly in a controlled fashion”). Foil strain gauges glued to turkey’s tendons were used to measure changes in muscle fibers 1,000 times a second via sonomicrometry.

The turkey landing data suggested that tendons can protect surrounding muscle fibers by taking in a good portion of the initial energy from a hard landing—then releasing it back to surrounding muscles more slowly.

“Something has to take up the slack, and it falls to the tendon,” Nicolai Konow, a postdoctoral research in ecology and evolutionary biology at Brown, and paper co-author, said in a prepared statement.

The process of landing turns out to be similar to what we already know about how the tendons and muscles work together to take off for a jump. When a person—or domestic fowl—jumps up, the power initially generated by the muscle is, in part, stored by the tendon, which provides the quick-release burst of energy. Just the opposite happens upon landing to dissipate the energy, the new findings suggest: “Power attenuation is similar to the familiar mechanisms of power amplification,” the research team wrote in their study. “In both cases, the tendon allows a separation in time of the muscular event and the movement event.” On the turkeys’ landings, the muscle fibers stiffened against the impact, sending energy to the tendon, which then released it some 2.4 times more slowly back to the muscle fibers.

The findings could have an impact, so to speak, on reconstructive tendon surgery as well as sports training, where the results might come as somewhat of a shock. After all, tendons are often thought of as the vulnerable links, owing in part to the major problems they can cause if they snap (think of poor Achilles). But perhaps we can think of the tendons as protectors, too. “We can say that in real ways, the muscle has a safety net with the tendon there protecting it,” Konow said.

The Nuts and Bolts of Crossbow Accuracy

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The Nuts and Bolts of Crossbow Accuracy
When it comes to crossbow accuracy, even the minutia matters.

Not all crossbows shoot dead-center right out of the box. Here’s a look at how to get the most consistent crossbow accuracy out of your gear.

After 25 years of hunting with, reviewing and shooting crossbows for the outdoor industry, I have come to one irrefutable conclusion: Not all crossbows are the tack-driving one-holers most hunters think they are — at least not initially.

To be fair, the majority of crossbows, even those that require the purchaser to mount their own scope, will cluster arrows in a 6-inch circle at 10 yards, but this is far from the holy grail of accuracy.

Achieving pinpoint accuracy with a crossbow begins with proper assembly of the crossbow, ensuring that all stock and scope screws, bolts and fittings are aligned and tight. When it comes to accuracy, even the minutia matters, like lubing the rail between shots per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

ARROWS

Believe it or not, an assortment of arrows can be found in some horizontal hunters’ quivers. It is essential that all arrows be of the same length and weight (and brand and model). Variations here can cause headaches when trying to get consistent arrow flight.

By all means, take the time to make certain all your arrows match prior to shooting them.

As anyone who has shopped for a new broadhead has discovered, there is a dizzying number available. Generally speaking, the shorter, tighter and more aerodynamic the design, the better the accuracy.

For most crossbow applications, mechanical-style broadheads perform best, as they wind-plane less than exposed-blade models (i.e., “fixed blades”). At 20 yards the differences are difficult to discern; however, as target distances increase, the errant broadhead’s flight miscue is multiplied.

ADJUSTABILITY

Many crossbows have adjustable stocks and foregrips. This allows the user to customize the length of pull. To achieve maximum efficiency, the shooter must hold and aim his crossbow the same way every time, without variation.

Because of these varying elements, it makes sense that a hunter should spend a considerable amount of time at the range to get the maximum accuracy out of his crossbow at 20, 30 and 40 yards.

While the majority of crossbows are suitably accurate for wild game at these distances, there are some variations that shooters must be aware of and be prepared to compensate for.

SCOPED

Most modern crossbow scopes are designed and made for crossbow shooting using crosshairs, circles or dots to indicate distances out to 60 yards (sometimes further).

Generally, all such scopes are accurate as designed out to 40 yards, after which accuracy tends to decline. The only way to find out is to sit down at a bench and shoot three or four arrows at each distance from a steady rest.

The basic standard is to sight in for 20 yards with the top-most scope reticle and then increase the distance in 10-yard increments.

For most crossbows, reliable accuracy under hunting conditions is assured out to 40 yards, but beyond that crossbow accuracy begins to fall off for a number of reasons, including wind deflection, loss of arrow speed and shooter error.

For all intents and purposes, hunters are advised to limit their shots at game to 45 yards (60 yards out West but only under perfect, windless, obstacle-free conditions). Target shooters may double those standards for competitions, although accuracy will inevitably fizzle as the distance to the target increases.

Crossbows
Shooting a crossbow through a chronograph indoors is a great way to measure a bow’s performance without being affected by wind.

CROSSBOW FORM

Because crossbows are built in a horizontal fashion, it is important that shooters address every aspect of the shot, including proper stance, foregrip, trigger pull and follow-through.

There are few better qualified to discuss the nuances of accurate crossbow shooting than Mark Beck, an International Bowhunter’s Organization (IBO) World Crossbow Champion.

Beck, who makes his living designing crossbows for Carbon Express, offered some surprisingly simple tips for crossbow shooters who want to improve their accuracy.

“Basically, crossbow shooters should use the same disciplines taught in firearms training,” Beck said, “but remember that the trajectory of an arrow is 1/10 that of the average firearm.

“Choose arrows that are within plus or minus 1 grain of each other,” Beck added, noting that hunters and target shooters should use field points or broadheads that are within 1 grain of each other.

Beck says there are four points to consistently accurate crossbow shooting.

First, he said, find the “balance point of the crossbow” and maintain a steady, consistent grip during each shot.

Beck says that shooters should strive to achieve the same field of view through the crossbow scope every time, because a skewed field of view has a tremendous effect on accuracy. Be sure the field of view is clear, sharp, centered, Beck advised.

Beck also stressed that shooters must seek a consistent cheek weld (where the cheek rests on the stock). The slightest variation will change the arrow’s point of impact.

“Some competition shooters mark the stock with tape to ensure that their cheek hits the same point each time,” Beck said. “The more consistent you are with your shooting position the more accurate you are going to be.”

Regarding triggers, Beck was adamant that shooters avoid tinkering with factory triggers to adjust pull weight or creep. Doing so, he said, could result in trigger failure, injury to the shooter, or damage to the crossbow and would void the manufacturer’s warranty.

Crossbows
Shooting a crossbow through a chronograph indoors is a great way to measure a bow’s performance without being affected by wind.

When it comes to trigger pull, Beck counsels, “Any crossbow can be fired accurately by using the first knuckle behind the fingernail as an anchor point. The second knuckle then becomes the pivot point. Practice your trigger pull using a slow, steady pull with the trigger held firmly behind that first knuckle.”

Finally, Beck recommended that bench shooters who intend to hunt deer, turkeys or other game spend time at a 3D range to get used to field shooting conditions and situations.

TREESTAND SHOOTING

Generally speaking, there is no need for elevation compensation when shooting 20 or 30 yards from tree stands that are 15 to 20 feet off the ground.

However, when elevations are much steeper (when hunting out of a tree stand that is 25 or more feet off the ground, or when the target is extremely close to the stand) it may be necessary to aim low in order to compensate for the arcing arrow.

It is recommended that tree stand crossbow hunters practice shooting at silhouette targets set at varying distances from the stand.

This includes shots near the tree base and out to 40 yards, especially when the elevations are such that ballistic compensation is required.

Whenever possible, practice shooting from the same stand you intend to hunt out of, whether fixed-position, ladder or a climbing tree stand. Have a partner place a foam target in various positions at random distances from the stand to simulate real-time hunting situations.

Use your range finder and your good judgment in deciding when to shoot or when to wait for a better opportunity.

GROUND BLIND SHOOTING

Shots from ground blinds are usually straightforward — assuming there are no obstacles or obstructions that might interfere with the crossbow or the arrow in flight.

More than one crossbow hunter has shot the ground blind instead of the trophy standing 20 yards in front of them. When preparing for the shot, make certain the arrow will clear the blind prior to attempting the shot.

Also, ensure that there are adequate, brush-free shooting lanes to avoid arrow contact with twigs, leaves and other debris. When cutting shooting lanes, consider the arrow’s arcing flight path, and cut paths high enough to allow the arrow to fly without impediments.

FREE-FORM SHOOTING

Stalking and still-hunting with a crossbow are challenging simply because crossbows are wide, heavy and awkward to carry over long distances. Always use a sling because carrying a crossbow at the ready while still-hunting will prove to be a chore for even the most athletic of hunters.

In any case, when shooting at game offhand it is important the hunter assume a solid stance with feet comfortably apart and shoulders back with the crossbow’s limbs level. Prop your bow hand into the ribs on the elbow and then use breathing techniques to steady the scope reticle.

COMMON MISTAKES

There are many common mistakes crossbow hunters make that can be easily addressed. The most common is failing to shoot your hunting arrows, those equipped with broadheads, prior to attempting to shoot them at an animal. If you don’t shoot your hunting arrows prior to using them in the field, don’t be surprised when you miss horribly.

Another common error affecting crossbow hunters is failure to use a range finder on every shot. An error in range estimation of just 5 yards can mean the difference between a hit or miss.

Upon arrival at your stand or blind, settle in and then spend some time ranging nearby landmarks. Determine where 20, 30 and 40 yards are by ranging individual trees, rocks or other prominent points. Some hunters use colored flagging or reflective tacks to mark yardages around their hunting site.

Many hunters use their crossbows only on weekends or holidays during the hunting season and then put them away until the following year. To remain familiar and effective with your crossbow, plan to shoot at least 20 arrows two or three times per week year ‘round. Shoot again any time the crossbow is transported, dropped, bumped or exposed to extreme temperatures.

Some crossbow hunters fail to maintain their crossbows per the manufacturer’s instructions. Over time crossbow cables and strings stretch or fray, limbs weaken and parts gum up. Every manufacturer has its own unique maintenance policy — make certain you read it and follow their recommendations.

Lastly, should your crossbow ever require repair, seek a trained professional who is familiar with your specific crossbow and factory-certified. If one is not available locally, by all means send your crossbow back to the manufacturer. Attempting to make your own crossbow repairs is never advised and can be dangerous.

Old vs New: Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus current model (SKU V200)

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Old Vortex Viper HD 8x42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus new Viper HD 8x42 binoculars (SKU V200)
Old Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus new Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200)

Hello from South West France,

Firstly many thanks for supporting BBR on Patreon, it is very much appreciated and certainly helps support me with the site and YouTube channel.

Your question is an interesting one and somewhat interestingly, based on the details I have managed to uncover, the answer as to which version of the Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars is best is not completely straightforward:

I actually have reviewed the old version (SKU VPR-4208-HD): Vortex Viper HD 8×42 Binoculars Review, so I do have experience with them, but as you say the old version has been superseded as I made that review about 12 years ago now, when I was still pretty new to testing binoculars!

Whilst I really did like those Vortex binoculars, I unfortunately no longer have them with me, nor do I have the new version, so I can’t compare them side-by-side for you. But let’s take a look at the facts and see if we can draw some conclusions from that:

I did indeed first ask the BinoWizard if he could get some details for me:

BBR: Hi BinoWizard, can you compare all the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) versus the current model for me: VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200)

BinoWizard: Certainly! Here’s a comparison of the main specifications and features of the old VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD) and the current model VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) based on the information provided on the respective product pages:

Old Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU VPR-4208-HD):

  1. Magnification: 8x
  2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
  3. Prism System: Roof prism
  4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
  5. Field of View: 347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees angular field of view)
  6. Close Focus Distance: 5.1 feet (1.55m)
  7. Eye Relief: 20mm
  8. Interpupillary Distance 59-75 mm
  9. Weight: Weight 24.2 oz (686g)
  10. Dimensions 5.8 inches (14.7cm) x 5.3 inches (13.4cm)

Current Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200):

  1. Magnification: 8x
  2. Objective Lens Diameter: 42mm
  3. Prism System: Roof prism
  4. Lens Coatings: XR™ Fully Multi-Coated
  5. Field of View: 409 feet at 1000 yards (7.8 degrees angular field of view)
  6. Close Focus Distance: 6 feet (1.83m)
  7. Eye Relief: 18mm
  8. Interpupillary Distance 55-74 mm
  9. Weight: Weight 24.5 oz (695g)
  10. Dimensions 5.6 inches (14.2cm) x 4.9 inches (12.4cm)

Optical Components & Coatings

BinoWizard was able to help with the basic specifications but was not much help when I quizzed him further about the specifics of the optics used. It is not really his fault as the AI can only go by what information is supplied and published. However, as humans, we can make some assumptions:

ED Glass

We know for sure that the old Viper HD binoculars do use Extra-low Dispersion (ED) glass in the lenses because the product page on the Vortex Optics website states the following “premium HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass” which helps in reducing chromatic aberration and enhancing color fidelity, sharpness, and contrast in the images.

However, the product listing on the new Viper does not specifically mention ED glass anywhere, only that it uses the Vortex HD optical system.

It is a strange omission, and I could not find an official statement from Vortex to state what exactly their HD system refers to, but I asked BinoWizard, and this is what he came back with:

I quizzed him about where he got this info from as it does sound very much like manufacturers marketing jargon lacking in specific details, unfortunately, it was not much use:

BinoWizard: I apologize for any confusion caused, but I don’t have direct access to the internet or specific web pages. The information I provided about Vortex’s HD optical system is based on my training on a diverse range of data, including product descriptions, reviews, and general knowledge about optics. It’s important to note that while I strive to provide accurate and up-to-date information, it’s always a good idea to verify details and consult official sources, such as the manufacturer’s website or product documentation, for the most precise and current information on specific products.

Anyway, based on the BinoWizard’s information and the fact that Vortex Optics also advertise their higher-end Razor binoculars like the Vortex Razor HD 8×42 as also using their HD optical system, which I know used ED glass, I think we can assume that these new Vortex Viper HD’s do probably have ED glass in their lenses.

I would also like to include that whilst there may be some minor differences in the exact glass and coatings used, my guess would be that the overall level of optics and thus the resultant observable quality of view will be very similar.

Optical Specifications

What is certainly different is the optical pathway and lens configuration as the fields of view, close focus distances, and eye relief are different and these would be noticeable if you were to compare the views side-by-side. Which is best will depend on your specific needs and preferences.

Field of View

Measuring 409 feet wide at a distance of 1000 yards which equals a viewing angle of 7.8 degrees, the new Vortex VIPER HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) are what I would describe Wide Angle Binoculars and they offer a substantially wider view than the old version (347 feet at 1000 yards (6.6 degrees).

For most people, this would be the preferable choice, but especially if like you, you are after a good birding binocular as this helps make it easier to quickly locate and follow small fast moving objects… like birds.

Eye Relief & Close Focus Distance

However, in order to achieve this wide view, Vortex has obviously had to compromise the amount of eye relief and it has also resulted in a slightly longer minimum focus distance.

Having said that and whilst it is true that the old versions are better in both these areas, the new version is still pretty good.

The 18mm of eye relief should be sufficient for most users who need to wear glasses, but if you do have thick glasses and or they sit far from your eyes, then the improved 20mm of eye relief you get on the old Viper could be important.

The close focus distances will only really be an issue if you specifically like to view objects from a very close range and if so, there are better binoculars for this purpose – for example, the Pentax Papilio II 8.5×21 Binoculars

Body Design, Materials & Components

I was not able to find out any details in regard to the chassis materials and whilst the styling is somewhat similar there are some differences:

The overall dimensions and weights are different, but none are big enough to warrant talking about.

In terms of style, I personally prefer the look of the older version, especially the eyecups, eyepieces, and focus wheel, but this is mostly just my personal preference.

Although having said that, the older focus wheel was an all-metal exterior, whilst the new one has a rubber track and I think is made of plastic. This does not mean the focus mechanism will be any different, but I do feel metal ones look more premium.

Conclusions

I think the overall styling and build quality of the older Vortex Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (sku VPR-4208-HD) was probably a little better, with more metal parts.

However, the very wide field of view on the new Viper HD 8×42 binoculars (SKU V200) is hard to ignore, especially as a birder.

Either way, I think both sets are certainly much, much better than the 411 EUR you have paid for them, so I am sure you have a good deal no matter which you choose.

Comments from Vortex

Just to let you know that I have also reached out to my contacts at Vortex to see if they have anything to add. I will include them here as soon as I get any.

Crosman MK-177 Review

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You shoot 500 rounds of pellets in a row in the afternoon.

The tin cans blow everywhere, about a dozen of them shattered in your backyard

Then, a friend calls you over for an all-night late party.

Awesome, you go to the party and drink a few beers.

On the walk home, you feel the rain on your face when walking to your front door, and the cold feeling of the rain reminds you of one thing —

You forgot to leave your gun outside and it IS RAINING!

You pray that your gun is still safe and sound while rushing towards its place.

And it’s not damaged. Thank God.

Now, you can breathe again. 

The above story illustrates why we fall in love with synthetic guns that stand vigorously in any kind of weather.

And Crosman MK-177 is one of those guns.

Crosman MK177 – Gun Type

This is a multi-pump pneumatic air rifle.

It gets its power from a piston and a pressure cylinder inside the chamber.

For more on the 5 types of air rifles you need to know before buying, see this post.

Pump pneumatic air guns are compact, lightweight, recoilless, and give you control over the power of the gun.

They are perfect for every shooter.

Whether you are 10, 30, 50, whether you are male or female, everyone can shoot a multi-pump.

If you are young or small and don’t have any muscle power, but just 2 or 3 pumps in the gun and shoot away.

If you like high power and have all the muscle required, you can put in 10 pumps to get maximum power.

You can read more about the pros and cons of a pump rifle in this post.

The caliber (the internal diameter of the bore, measured in inches) is .177- the most common caliber for target shooting and plinking.

For more on how to choose the right air gun caliber for your game, see this post.

This gun is a double-function air rifle with a rifled barrel.

(For more on things you should know about air rifle barrels before buying, see this post).

It shoots either BB or pellet and you can use whatever ammo you got in your hands.

It just doesn’t get any better than a versatile ammo gun.

Combine this with the variable number of pumps and you’ve got every man’s air gun.

This all-new, tactical air rifle features new valve technology combining lower pumping force with higher velocity.

The newly designed bolt handle is larger and located on the left side for ease of use.

Stock

The stock is a rugged all-weather synthetic.

For more on the in-depth comparison between synthetic and wood stock, see this post.

The stock has a slightly raised cheekpiece and slightly textured plastic in the grip so you can grasp this gun more tightly and line up the sight faster.

Moreover, this gun has a tactical pistol grip:

  • It orients the hand in a vertical way similar to the position one would take with a conventional pistol.

This pistol grip provides a comfortable feel and allows you to maneuver the gun easily.

The stock has a removable rubber buttplate so you can store ammo in the handy space beneath the recoil pad.

Ammo

The Crosman MK-177 uses both .177 BBs and .177 pellets as its sources of ammunition.

BBs are surprisingly cheap and .177 pellets are inexpensive, too.

If you look at the price of .177 versus .22 pellets, you’ll see that you get twice the amount of ammo with .177 pellets for the same price.

Having the 2 cheapest ammo at your disposal prevents you from worrying about breaking the bank if you practice shooting a lot.

For more on the differences between .177 & .22 and which jobs they do best, see this post.

Cocking and loading

The funny thing about this gun is the placement of the cocking bolt on the left side

While the magazine must be inserted and indexed from the right side,

(as opposed to Crosman M4-177 which places both of them conveniently on the right),

But it’s not that big of a deal when you get used to it.

Sight

The Crosman MK-177 comes with an outstanding open sight.

The sight consists of a post-front sight and dual aperture rear sight.

The aperture sight (a.k.a peep sight) is similar to the iron sight except it has a small hole cutting through the middle of the rear sight.

When aiming, shooters look through the aperture and focus their eyes only on the front sight and the target.

The eyes will automatically center the front sight and ensure accuracy.

The picture of the front sight and the target is sharp and clear while the surrounding of the aperture now is only out of focus blur zone.

So sometimes aperture sight is also called ghost ring sight.

The aperture sight has a significant advantage compared to a factory open sight.

With a traditional sight, there are 3 points you have to focus on: the target, the front sight, and the rear sight.

It’s really hard to focus on 3 points at the same time since they are located at different distances from the eyes.

But with the aperture rear sight, there are only 2 points to focus on: the front sight and the target because the eyes automatically focus on these points at the center of the ring.

In conclusion, the aperture sight is fast to pick up, easy to acquire the target, and optically superior to a traditional open sight.

For more on how many types of air gun sights are out there and which one is suitable for you, see this post.

Velocity, accuracy and power

This multi-pump rifle has a velocity of up to 800 FPS with steel BB and 750 FPS with alloy pellet.

This is medium velocity compared to other pellet guns and super-high velocity compared to other BB guns.

This type of awe-inspiring speed sets this BB/pellet rifle apart from other air guns that also shoot BB on the market.

Chrony test has given us results as follows:

For 10 pumps:

PelletsFPSFPE
Crosman Premier 7.9 grains pellet628.76.94 
7 gr RWS pellet631.46.2 
RWS Hobby 7.0 gr594.55.49 
6.9 gr RWS6316.1 
Crosman SSP pointed pellet 4 gr7515.01 
Steel BBs 5.1 gr6695.07 

Although these velocities a lower than the advertised numbers, this gun still delivers enough knockdown power, about 5-7 FPE,

So it still can drop birds, crows, doves, etc and common plinking objects such as tin can, water bottle, and so on doesn’t stand a chance

For Crosman MK-177, various shooting tests have been conducted by different shooters with positive results.

The common shooting groups are:

  • 1” at 30 feet,
  • 1/2″ to 3/4″ at 20 yards,
  • 1/2″ at 22 feet,
  • 1” at 50 yards,
  • 1.173” at 10 meters with Crosman Premiere lite,
  • 0.839” at 10 meters with Air Arms Falcons 7.33 gr,
  • 0.858” at 10 meters with RWS Hobby,
  • 0.399” at 10 meters with H&N Finale Match Pistol.

As you can see this is an undoubtedly accurate air rifle with a shooting range of up to 20 yards.

Specifications

  • Caliber: 0.177”
  • Velocity: 800 FPS with steel BB, 750 FPS with alloy pellet.
  • Loudness: 3- Medium
  • Barrel Length: 16.75”
  • Overall Length: 33”
  • Shot Capacity: 300.
  • Cocking Effort: 3-10 pumps
  • Barrel: Rifled
  • Front Sight: Elevation adjustable Pin
  • Rear Sight: Windage Adjustable/ Dual Aperture Peep
  • Scopeable: Picatinny
  • Buttplate: Rubber
  • Suggested for: Plinking/Target shooting
  • Action: Bolt- Action
  • Safety: Manual
  • Powerplant: Multi-pump pneumatic
  • Function: Repeater
  • Body Type: Rifle
  • Fixed/adjustable power: Multiple settings
  • Weight: 3.5 lbs

Customer review

There are lots of customer reviews of this multi-pump rifle.

In positive reviews, buyers love its solid polymer stock, realistic firearm look, fantastic accuracy, and over-expected power.

However, there are some negative reviews about this gun: They don’t like the location of the bolt handle and its pellet storage in the buttplate but those are minor issues, though.

Price

The price for the Crosman Mk-177 is only about $60.

For $59, or even the normal $79 price, it’s a great gun for the money that will bring you tons of fun.

There are a couple of different listings online but the listing I’ve found with the lowest price is the best deal you can find on the internet.

Also, there is a listing on PyramydAir of the MK-177 with the red dot sight, a couple of hundred pellets, a carry-case, safety glasses, and some spare pellet clips.

This listing is only about $100 and I think you should take a look at it if you want an all-in-one-package gun for your kids.

Pros and Cons

ProsCons
  • Amazing velocity
  • Awesome dual function
  • Cool tactical looking
  • Excellent open sight
  • Great stock
  • Incredible accuracy
  • Bolt handle locates on the left side makes it awkward to right handed shooters
  • Pumping action takes some time to master
  • Pumping action can be tedious at some point

Conclusion

The Crosman MK-177 is a good air gun for a father and son day at the range.

If you’re looking for something fun to shoot and want that tactical look and feel, definitely take this gun, I’m sure you’ll be very pleased with it.

8 Best Appendix Holsters (AIWB)– Tips, Tricks & Field Test

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We field tested over 40 of the best Appendix Holsters and found the 8 best options available.

I find many people say that carrying a concealed carry gun in an appendix AIWB holster is very uncomfortable.

Since it is arguably the best way to conceal a handgun for self-defense, is there really a comfortable option?

Best Appendix Holster AIWB Five of Jason
Some of my favorite Appendix Holsters

Our team has over 25 years of experience with concealed carry and appendix holsters. We use these holsters every day. We have military experience, safety officer experience, and shoot competitively in concealed carry matches as well.

While finding a comfortable holster is possible, it is only part of what you need to know.

Keep reading to find our tips and tricks to finally be able to carry an appendix holster comfortably.

Comparison of our Favorite Appendix Holsters

Best Appendix Holsters

CYA Supply Ridge Holster – Best Appendix Holster

  • Material: Kydex
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 100
  • Return Policy: 30 Days
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $59.74

The CYA Supply Ridge AIWB Holster is our top pick as one of the best appendix holsters.

This full kydex holster is one of the slimmest low-profile appendix holsters we could find.

Why is that important?

An appendix holster that is not bulky is more likely to be comfortable and easy to conceal.

I have worn this holster for hours at a time and was able to sit, bend over, and load some heavy rocks into the back of my truck with it on.

I like how the edges of the holster are rounded. I have found that holsters that have pointed edges can be painful when I move in a certain position. They are literally a pain!

This holster comes with a spring steel clip from Discrete Carry Concepts. This clip has two fingers with tangs on the inside that catches on the bottom of my belt. This clip is one of the most durable and secure clips that we have found.

I was able to adjust the position of the clip to get the cant angle that was best for me. I simply loosened the screws, moved the clip, and tightened it back down.

The holster comes with a standard concealment wing with two different claw options. Hardware is included to remove it altogether, use a low profile claw, or a taller claw. I really like this option since I can customize it to my gun and my carry position.

But I really like the fact that CYA has included all of these options at no additional cost. Most other companies charge extra.

There are multiple colors available, and this holster is optics ready. However, they do not support pistol mounted lights. I found that they support all of the popular concealed carry guns on the market, so you are likely to find one for yours.

The combination of the features, comfort, and price brought us to agree that this is the best appendix holster for most people.

Recommended for:

The CYA Supply Ridge AIWB Holster is for anyone looking for the best appendix holster. This value here is hard to beat.

Video Review of the CYA Supply Ridge Holster

Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator – Best Kydex Appendix Holster

  • Type: IWB
  • Material: Kydex
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 50
  • Return Policy: 30 Days
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $97.75

Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator Holster is a full Kydex holster that we found works great as an appendix holster as well as any other IWB carry position.

The infiltrator is the latest holster from Harry’s Holsters. The shape and design of this holster looks different than most of the other Kydex IWB holsters that I have seen. You can tell that they have put in a lot of thought and incorporated improvements into this holster from previous models.

I like how the outside of the holster is rounded. My Infiltrator holster has not only rounded the edges on the Kydex, but it is formed in key areas to eliminate any possible edges that could cause pain. This is especially true around the bottom of the holster, an area I found to be the key to comfort.

Just like the CYA ridge holster, this one also comes with a spring steel Discrete Carry Concepts clip. It is one of the best I have found on an appendix holster.

What really makes this holster stand out is the adjustability. The clip comes separate from the holster, and included is a card with a QR code with a link to a setup video.

The hardware on this holster is unique. Instead of the round nuts you typically find on most holsters, this one comes with square nuts that ride in the adjustment channel. This allows the clip to move up and down with nearly one inch of ride height adjustment and 30 degrees of cant angle adjustment.

This much adjustability means this holster will work for almost everyone. I found with some adjustment it worked great in the appendix position as well as behind the hip.

Another feature that I really like on this holster is the unique concealment wing. Instead of being a separate wing with a claw, Harry’s Holsters came up with a unique design.

The wing is molded into the Kydex and is a gradual raised area around the trigger. I found that with holsters that have a claw, they are hard to put on and the claw gets caught on my pants or belt. With this holster, it slides right into place.

This is great since I often don’t drive with this holster on. This design allows me to quickly put it on when I get out of my truck.

All of these design features are great, but they do come at a price. This holster is more expensive than most other Kydex holsters. If your budget allows, this is the one to get.

Recommended for:

Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator Holster is for anyone looking for an appendix holster that will work well in any IWB carry position. The adjustability and rounded design makes this holster very comfortable.

Video of the Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator

Hidden Hybrid Holsters Single Clip – Most Comfortable Appendix Holster

  • Material: Hybrid – Leather and Kydex
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 100
  • Return Policy: 30 Day
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $89.95

The Hidden Hybrid Holsters Single Clip Holster is one of the most comfortable appendix holsters we have used.

This holster is a hybrid design, so it has a leather backing with a kydex shell. I found that the leather has a soft suede backing that is super comfortable. I noticed that the leather was Amish made on their website but did not expect it to feel this soft.

When I ordered this holster I noticed that they have an option for an “RMR guard” and I selected the red dot that I have on my gun. I really wasn’t sure what this was since I had not seen it offered on any other holster before.

I was surprised when I received the holster to find that molded into the Kydex was a full guard for my red dot. Instead of being out and exposed like on other holsters, it is fully covered and protected.

I also selected the optional claw when I ordered it. This pushes the grip of my handgun closer to my body, and it is a feature I usually look for on an appendix holster.

Part of what makes this holster comfortable is it is wider than most other kydex or leather holsters. This helps to spread out any pressure over a wider area. Think of stepping on a small or large Lego and you get my drift.

But it does take up more room as a result. Blake has a small waist and he has been carrying this holster for a while. He says the only downside is the width makes it harder for him to carry a mag carrier IWB as well.

Hidden Hybrid offers many different gun models with this holster, but they only have pistol light options for a few gun models. They also do not have an integrated mag carrier option, but they do have an IWB option that is separate.

Recommended for:

The Hidden Hybrid Holsters Single Clip Holster is for anyone looking for a comfortable appendix holster. This is one of the most comfortable holsters we have found.

Video About Hidden Hybrid Holsters

Alien Gear Photon Holster – Best Value Appendix Holster

  • Material: Kydex
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 50
  • Return Policy: 30 Day
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $44.88

The Alien Gear Photon holster is more than just a great AIWB holster, it is an entire holster system.

This holster comes with hardware to set it up as either an IWB holster or an OWB holster. I got their Photon mag carrier as well, and I set it up as an AIWB holster with a mag pouch side car.

All of this for a price that is one of the lowest on our list.

When I first setup my holster for my Glock 19, I found the adjustability allowed me to set it exactly where I wanted it. The sidecar attachment bracket has multiple options, as well as the clip on both the holster and the mag carrier. It took a few tries to get it exactly right, but I would rather have too many options than an uncomfortable holster.

This holster can be setup for either right-hand or left-hand draw. While not important for some, it is for us since some on our team are left-handed. If anyone in your family has a different dominant hand than you this holster will keep you from having to buy a unique holster just for them.

I really like the fact that this holster comes with plenty of spare hardware. Since I have switched my holster between IWB and OWB a few times, I dropped a few screws and was glad to have extras.

The holster does have an optional concealment claw that you can attach behind the holster clip. I don’t like how close it is to the clip, as it makes it a little hard to put the holster on.

I found that depending on the pants and belt I was using, the space between the clip and the claw was not enough. A thick belt and a thick waistband just won’t work.

My only dislike for this holster in the AIWB configuration was it does not have a full sweat guard. I found that I always needed to wear an undershirt with it otherwise the slide of my Glock was right against my skin, serrations, and all.

Overall, it is hard to beat the price and flexibility of this holster. When it is setup right it is comfortable and not a pain. There are a ton of gun models available, light bearing options as well.

Recommended for:

The Alien Gear Photon holster system is for anyone looking for a flexible AIWB holster with a magazine side car and light bearing options.

Video of the Alien Gear Photon Holster

Falco AIWB Leather Holster – Best Leather Appendix Holster

  • Material: Leather
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 100
  • Return Policy: 30 Days
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $80

The Falco AIWB Leather Holster is one of the best leather AIWB holsters we have tried.

This holster is made from very high-quality Italian leather. This leather is a little different than the typical leather I am used to. It has some stiffness to it, which has some advantages.

Unlike most other leather holsters, this holster is custom molded to my gun. This makes it fit very well, almost as good as a Kydex holster.

I like how the top of the holster is reinforced with a second piece of leather on the front and around the sweat guard. This stiffens the opening of the holster and keeps it open after I draw my gun. Collapsing after drawing my gun is one of the biggest issues I have found with leather appendix holsters. But Falco has figured it out on this one.

The metal clip is attached to the front of the holster with a reinforced piece of leather. I can’t see it going anywhere. It feels very secure.

However, the clip is not adjustable since it is permanent. My holster feels like it is at a good ride height and cant angle, but some adjustment would be nice.

Since the leather is fairly stiff, I found that the edges can cause some skin irritation when I first started wearing it. Over time, this seems to have gotten better, so I feel like the edges have become softer. But it has taken a few weeks, so it does require some patience.

Overall the quality of this holster is amazing, and I expect it to last a long time. The leather gives it that classic look and feel of leather, with a retention that competes with Kydex.

Recommended for:

The Falco AIWB Leather Holster is for anyone looking for a classic leather appendix holster. The molded leather is hard to find anywhere else.

Video of the Falco Leather AIWB Holster with the Light Option

1791 Gunleather Smooth Concealment Holster – Best Universal Appendix Holster

  • Material: Leather
  • Handgun Models Available: Universal
  • Return Policy: 30 Days
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $45.99

The 1791 Gunleather Smooth Concealment Holster is the best leather universal fit AIWB holster we have tried.

This holster comes in seven different sizes that will fit almost any handgun. Normally I do not recommend universal fit holsters since they often don’t fully guard they trigger, don’t have good retention, or have material around the sweat guard that interfered with my draw.

However, we tried this holster with five different concealed carry guns and for the most part did not have any of these issues. I felt that the Sig P365 XL was a little loose in the holster, and the sweat guard came up a little too high. However, fit was fine with the Glock 19, 43, and the S&W Shield.

This holster is made from top quality leather. It is durable, soft, and smells great as well. This makes it super comfortable, with none of the stiff edges that kydex holsters have.

I found that for some handguns this holster does need a break-in period. The process was easy with the included instructions. I just needed a plastic bag and it took a few days.

Over time I realized the holster forming to my handgun my body. The Leather just feels great. This holster is very low-profile and compact, so it is easy to wear.

The metal clip is easy to use, and it is attached to the holster with a reinforcing piece of leather. This makes it super strong, and I am not worried about it pulling away from the holster.

However, the clip is not adjustable since it is permanently attached to the holster. I didn’t find this to be an issue with the guns I tried, but it could be depending on the gun you are using and your body shape.

Since this holster is a soft leather AIWB holster, I found that it collapsed after I drew my handgun. I talk about this in the guide below. This is not a show stopper but it is an issue during training.

Recommended for:

The 1791 Gunleather Smooth Concealment AIWB Holster is for anyone looking for a comfortable leather appendix holster. The quality of the leather is amazing.

Video of the 1791 Smooth Concealment Holster

Stealth Gear Ventcore 1.0 AIWB Plus – Best Hybrid AIWB Holster

  • Material: Hybrid
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 75
  • Return Policy: 30 Days
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $129

The Stealth Gear Ventcore 1.0 AIWB Plus appendix holster is one of the best hybrid holsters we have found.

This holster has a hybrid design (learn more in our guide below). But instead of leather, it has a unique breathable fabric for the backing.

This fabric is what sets it apart from all other holsters. I noticed that it is super comfortable without having the issues with sweat that leather does. Leather breaks down when it is subjected to a lot of sweat, so it is best to wear an undershirt between it and your skin.

In very hot weather, I usually don’t want to wear an undershirt. So, this holster is my goto option. I have tried all of the Stealth Gear holsters and can say this fabric really makes a difference.

The Kydex shell fully protects my handgun and has perfect retention that is adjustable.

I like that it has a built-in sidecar for an extra magazine. It is easy to just throw this holster on, and I don’t have to worry about a separate mag carrier for my spare magazine.

I also like the clip on this holster. It is adjustable for ride height and cant angle and I can also tuck my shirt in behind it. The other holsters on our list don’t offer this, so this is the one I go for when I need to dress up and tuck in my shirt.

There are a bunch of gun models available for this holster, and plenty of light and laser options as well.

Recommended for:

The Stealth Gear Ventcore 1.0 AIWB Plus appendix holster is for anyone looking for a comfortable appendix holster for hot weather with a mag side car.

Video Review of the Stealth Gear AIWB Plus Holster

Cross Breed Xecutive – Best Budget Appendix Holster

  • Material: Kydex
  • Handgun Models Available: Over 75
  • Return Policy: 30 Days
  • Warranty Policy: Lifetime
  • MSRP: $39.95

The Crossbreed Xecutive Holster is our pick for the best budget appendix holster.

If you have a tight budget and still want a decent appendix holster, this is the one for you.

I like that this Kydex holster is a compact, minimalist design. It is very slim which helps with comfort.

These holsters are custom made, so safety and retention is there as well.

I found that there are a bunch of options available with this holster. There is a ModWing attachment that provides better concealment (similar to a claw on other holsters).

There are six different clips available, including belt loops and tuckable clips. There is also a foam wedge available that helps to make this holster more comfortable.

However, these options do cost extra. So by the time you add a couple it actually costs more than our top pick above. I would recommend going with the CYA Ridge holster unless your budget is tight and you don’t want or can afford any other option.

Recommended for:

The Crossbreed Xecutive Holster is for anyone with a super tight budget that needs a safe appendix holster.

Video of the Xecutive holster (same as N8 Tactical)

Best Appendix Holster Tips – What to Look For

In our experience, finding an appendix (AIWB) holster that works for us and our handgun is one of the most difficult choices out of all the holster types.

I have found that so much depends on your body shape, handgun, clothing, and how you wear the holster. Even on our team one of us can try a holster and really like it while the others do not.

In this guide we will give you some tips on what we found when trying and actually using appendix holsters with a variety of our favorite concealed carry handguns.

Keep reading to find our tips that you won’t find anywhere else.

Important AIWB Holster Features

First, there are some important features that you need to look for when choosing an Appendix Holster.

Safety is always most important.

Some people (rightfully so) do not like appendix carry because when you sit or bend over the gun is pointed at your body. In a sensitive place I might add.

Carrying a handgun in the appendix position is perfectly safe if you have a holster that fully guards the trigger and retains the handgun properly.

If your holster does not fully guard the trigger do not use it.

This leads us to the second most important feature…

Retention

No matter what kind of holster you use, it should retain your handgun. This is especially important for appendix carry.

This is important so that the trigger always remains guarded. If your gun is wiggling around in the holster it could come out partially and expose the trigger.

I know when I feel something falling my natural reaction is to grab it. Imagine if you bend over to pick something up and your gun slides up and you grab it as a reaction. You could accidentally hit the trigger while the gun is pointed at your groin.

I have found that Kydex holsters made for my particular model of handgun usually have the best retention. Some leather holsters are custom molded and are nearly as good as well.

Universal holsters are hit and miss depending on the handgun. If you are considering a holster that works for many different guns, my experience is that those that work for the least number of guns (more sizes of holster) work better.

Comfort/Adjustability

Nearly everyone I talk to about AIWB holsters talks about how comfortable they are (or not). After all, there is a big chuck of metal down your pants.

There are a few things you can look for before you try the holster to know if it is comfortable or not.

Look to see how rounded the holster is around the bottom. This is the area that could cause the most pain around your groin area. Holsters that have flat or pointed edges should be avoided as they can cause pressure points of pain.

Also note if the belt clip is adjustable. This will give you the most options in where the holster rides on your body. For larger guns I have found this to be even more important.

Draw Grip

The whole reason for carrying a concealed handgun in the appendix position is so you can get to it quickly. While speed is important, getting a good full grip on the handgun is more important.

I have found that if I don’t have a full grip on my gun when I draw, I am trying to reposition my grip as I aim. This really slows me down and also causes me to be inaccurate.

In some cases I have seen others almost drop their gun during the draw process because their grip was hindered by the holster or their clothing.

The grip of your handgun should be high enough over the waist of your pants so that you can wrap your fingers around it. The backstrap of the gun should also not be covered by the sweat guard of the holster.

Similarly to retention, I have found that most holsters that are custom made for a particular gun usually allow a good draw grip. A holster with an adjustable clip will also allow you to move it to the best place for you.

Re-holstering

While it may not seem super critical during a self-defense situation, I have found that being able to holster my handgun without taking the holster off is important.

In order to be proficient with drawing and operating my handgun, training has been important. If I have to take the holster off every time I need to holster my handgun, it is a big waste of time and an aggravation. I find that I don’t train as much and really don’t want to use that holster.

If I was in an emergency and had to draw my handgun, I want to be able to re holster it quickly. I may need to help others or do some other task quickly.

Concealing Features

Carrying a handgun in the appendix position is one of the most concealable methods for most people. However, since appendix holsters are often narrow in width, I have found that the holster and the grip of my handgun can rotate away from my body, causing it to “print”.

The best Appendix holsters will have a “wing” or “claw” that extends from near the trigger on the holster and presses against inside of my waistband. This keeps the grip of my handgun close to my body and better concealed.

These wings can make it harder to put the holster on or can be too aggressive. The best appendix holsters will have adjustable claws (like the CYA Drift) or they will have sloping wings (like the Harry’s Holsters Infiltrator).

Clothing Considerations

In my experience, when most people complain that appendix carry is uncomfortable, it is because they are not wearing the holster correctly.

The first consideration is my pant size. If my pants can stay up without a belt, they are usually too tight for an appendix carry holster. After all, my pants have to not only accommodate me, but my gun and holster as well.

I usually get pants that are one size larger than I need. It is even better if they have some elastic in the waistband as well.

A stiff gun belt is also a must have. Since my pants are loose and my holster is attached to it, it needs to be stiff and durable since it is holding everything in place. If I keep having to adjust it and my pants move up and down a lot, it becomes uncomfortable.

I have also found that when carrying an appendix holster, I need to keep the bottom of the holster above my hip joint. This is so I can bend over and sit down comfortably.

I normally wear my pants a little lower than most people just because of my body shape. This is a problem for appendix carry since it puts the lower part of my holster right into my groin.

I find that I have to pull my pants up higher to get the holster in the right position. This is the biggest issue for most people and carrying appendix. If you have a belly that keeps you from getting your pants up high enough appendix carry may not be for you.

Appendix holsters are also most comfortable when worn in the center of the body. This is because this area offers the most room. If I slide my holster over to the 1 o’clock position, the bottom of the holster is closer to my leg and can be uncomfortable when I sit down or bend over.

I also like to wear a tight-fitting shirt under my AIWB holster. This keeps the holster from rubbing my skin and getting sweaty. If you don’t want to wear an undershirt, I have found that hybrid holsters are comfortable since they have a soft material against my skin.

Appendix Holster Materials

The only materials you should consider for an AIWB holster are Kydex and Leather. Holsters that are a hybrid design have both of these materials.

Kydex

Kydex is a type of polymer that can be formed to the specific shape of each gun model. Kydex works great for appendix holsters since it is a durable and rigid material. I know that my kydex holster is safe because it is securely holding my gun.

I like that Kydex holsters require no maintenance. Water or sweat doesn’t affect them and they are easy to clean. I find that most Kydex holsters have an adjustable retention screw so I can adjust the holster to my gun.

However, since Kydex is a hard, rigid material, they can be uncomfortable if they have any edges or points like I mentioned before. Make sure your Kydex appendix holster has rounded edges and no corners that can poke you.

Leather

A leather AIWB holster can be very comfortable. I like how leather just gets better with age as it forms to my body. It is a natural material that looks great and smells great as well.

But there are some things to watch out for.

Sweat can break down leather and cause it to deteriorate. I have found it best to wear an undershirt between the holster and my skin to prevent this as much as possible.

Leather usually requires break-in and maintenance as well. Moisture is the main enemy, so you do have to take care in how you clean it. I like to keep a care and maintenance kit on hand like the Craft Leather Care Kit.

Leather can soften over time and could become a safety issue if the areas around the trigger become soft. You also need to pay close attention to the retention of your handgun. With repeated use I have found it will eventually become too loose.

Hybrid

A Hybrid holster combines the comfort of leather with the retention and durability of kydex.

These holsters have a durable fabric or leather backing that sits against my body with a kydex shell attached to the front.

They are just as safe as a full kydex or leather holster, as long as they fully guard the trigger and have good retention.

The only disadvantage I have found is that some of them can be bulkier than a compact kydex holster. For a larger gun like a Walther PDP it can make a difference.

However, I have found that hybrid holsters are great in warm weather. I really don’t need an undershirt with them and they don’t cause as much skin irritation as a kydex holster does.

Price of an Appendix Holster

A good quality AIWB holster is between $50 and $100. Considering that this is much less than the cost of the handgun and ammo, there is no reason to try to save a few bucks here. A cheap $25 holster on Amazon may not be safe and will likely be a waste of money anyway.

Purchase from a reputable company with a good return and warranty policy. We have specifically listed this on all the holsters above so you can be sure you are buying from a good source.

The Best Appendix Holster for You

We hope this guide is helpful in finding the best appendix holster for you. I understand finding one that is both comfortable and functional is a challenge.

The holsters above are the best we have found after years of trying different ones. I hope that one of them becomes the perfect holster for you. But, if it does not, they all have great return policies.

The CYA Drift holster is a great appendix holster at a very good price.

If you have a larger gun you may want to go with Harry’s Holster Infiltrator. The rounded design and adjustability will really help.

Now that you have learned about Appendix Holsters, check out our other holster guides in the Defend Guides and Gear Reviews. Our Emergency preparation and Survival guides also have a ton of information that so hand in hand with self-defense.

Go back to the main Concealed Carry Guide

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes Explained: Which is Best?

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First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes Explained: Which is Best?

Whether a first or second focal plane scope is best depends on your intended purposes.

Tactical and competitive shooting sports are crossing over into the hunting world more than ever, sparking frequent debates about whether first or second focal plane scopes—or more accurately, the reticles inside the scopes—are better.

Also known as front and rear focal plane, this refers to the position of the lens etched with the reticle, in relation to the zoom mechanism.

If the reticle-etched lens is in front of the zoom mechanism, it’s called a first, or front, focal plane scope. The reticle is superimposed over the image in the scope on the same plane, so as you zoom in or out, the reticle larger or smaller, maintaining the same size in relation to your target.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
This graphic shows the placement of a reticle on the front focal plane, and on the rear focal plane. The magnification assembly (zoom mechanism) lies between them.

If the lens etched with the reticle is behind the zoom mechanism, it’s called a second, or rear, focal plane scope. In this design, the reticle stays the same apparent size inside the scope all the time. As you zoom in or out, the image seen inside the optic gets larger or smaller but the reticle does not.

There are significant advantages and disadvantages of each type. Proponents of first focal plane designs are vociferous in proclaiming the virtues of their favorite. Users of second focal plane scopes tend, quite candidly, to be less educated in optic technicana, and unfortunately often just listen without debating.

Here’s the short answer as to which is actually best: It depends entirely on the intended purpose of the scope. If you’re a military sniper, or a “tactard” plinker, or a PRS competitive shooter, front focal plane scopes are best. If you’re a hunter, second focal plan scopes are usually best.

Here’s why.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
Tactical and competitive shooters are generally best served with first focal plane scopes, because they can accurately use reticle hash marks to hold for wind or a bit of bullet drop/point of impact error no matter what magnification the scope is on.

Front Focal Plane Scopes

Military and tactical-type shooters often rely on hash reticle hash marks to compensate for wind drift, and for on-the-fly minor variances in bullet impact above or below expected point of impact. In a first focal plane scope, the hash marks on the reticle crosswire are the same predictable value no matter what magnification the scope is set on. Whether you are zoomed way in on a very small target, or zoomed way out so as to maximize our field of view when engaging multiple or moving targets, .2-MIL hash marks are always .2 MILs. If you need to hold for 6 MILs of wind drift, just use the appropriate hash mark and squeeze the trigger.

That’s it for the advantage of first focal plane reticles, folks. It’s a very simple, yet critical characteristic. The disadvantages are more nuanced, and as a result are harder for many shooters to grasp—until experienced for themselves.

Here’s the down side to front focal plane reticles: When the scope is zoomed way in, the reticle grows to the point where it becomes outlandishly thick. It can easily become so thick it obscures your target, making precise aiming difficult.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
Modern snipers generally use front focal plane reticles.

To compensate, most optic companies make front focal plane reticle crosswires really thin near the center. Unfortunately, that makes it so when you zoom way out, the reticle becomes super thin and can nearly vanish.

Most tactical and competitive shooters prefer to shoot with their scope on 10x or more, so it’s not really a problem for them. However, if you use a first focal plane reticle while hunting, that vanishing reticle on low power can be debilitating.

This is particularly true in low light conditions, and when the game animal is against a brushy background. To gather enough light to see the animal, you’ve got to zoom the scope all the way out. (Scopes gather and transfer light most effectively on low power.) Trouble is, with the reticle now spiderweb-thin, it vanishes in the twilight, especially if there’s brush around the animal.

Where legal, illuminated reticles can help overcome the vanishing-reticle syndrome. However, many states do not allow illuminated reticles for hunting. Plus, most illuminated reticles are too illuminated, meaning the entire thing or at least the major percentage of the reticle glows. A tiny pinpoint of light in the center of the reticle is wonderful; a Christmas tree worth of vibrant glowing reticle is distracting and can make it difficult to see through and find your quarry in the fading light.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
Hunters are generally best served with second focal plane scopes. Most game is shot with the scope on low magnification, where a front focal plane reticle shrinks until it has nearly vanished. Busy backgrounds and low light exacerbate the issue.

Second Focal Plane Reticles

Second focal plane scopes are the world standard for hunters, and for good reason; the reticle stays the same size whether zoomed in or out. You can crank up to top magnification and see the wings on a fly at 100 yards; the reticle doesn’t become grossly fat. You can zoom all the way out for low-light hunting, and the reticle stays perfectly visible rather than thinning to obscurity.

I’m gonna take a cheap-shot at pseudo-tactical shooters that proclaim second focal plane reticles are outdated and near useless: Most shooters making such claims have little real-world experience on live targets, in wild environments; on stealthy game that moves only when the shadows grow long. Be a little more open-minded, and listen to the guys that consistently stalk and kill the wariest wild game, from torrid deserts to frigid timberline, in all kinds of weather and light conditions. You’ll learn something about what works best for hunting.

So, if second focal plane scopes are so good, what’s the down side? It applies to technical extended-range shooters that calculate wind holds, or hold over a distant target using reticle hash marks to compensate for bullet drop rather than dialing up.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
Here’s a prime example of how a front focal plane reticle shrinks until it nearly vanishes in most front focal plane reticles. It’s not usually an issue with target, tactical, and competitive shooting, but plays havoc when hunting. March Scopes image.

If a second-focal-plane reticle incorporates hash marks, it has a significant Achilles Heel: They are only good at one magnification setting. For example, my favorite hunting reticle is Leupold’s WindPlex. It’s got one-MOA hash marks on the horizontal crosswire to help shooters accurately compensate for calculated wind drift. However, those hash marks span exactly one MOA only on max power. For example, a 3-18x 44mm Leupold VX-6HD must be zoomed all the way to 18x for the hashes to have exactly a one-MOA span.

I don’t like to shoot at game animals on max power. It’s hard to find your quarry when you’re zoomed all the way in. You almost never spot your own impacts, because the field of view is small and recoil causes your rifle to jump. It’s hard to find the animal for a fast follow-up shot. In Mexico, I once failed to get a critical second shot into an animal because my scope was on 18x. The big coues buck trotted off when the bullet hit, and I couldn’t get back on him.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
Shown is Leupold’s WindPlex second focal plane reticle. It’s hash marks span one MOA when the scope’s magnification is zoomed all the way in. At all other power settings the hash marks are useless—except for the half-power setting, at which the marks span two MOA. That’s useful enough for most hunters.

Thankfully, there’s a shooter’s hack that helps: Set your scope on half power, and double the value of the hash marks. Set on 9x (halfway down from 18x), my Leupold reticle’s hash marks span two MOA.

As a result, unless inside 300 yards, I rarely use anything but half-magnification when hunting with second focal plane reticles equipped with hash marks.

There you have it: the primary pros and cons of first versus second focal plane scopes. Maybe, like me, you own and use both, and pick up whichever is appropriate for the task at hand. Perhaps you use just one rifle for everything from backcountry hunting to long-range cross-country NRL Hunter matches. In the end, only you can decide which is best for your purposes.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane Scopes
Popular graphs such as this are massively misleading and do shooters and hunters a disservice: They show the first focal plane reticle in a theoretical (but senseless) best light. It’s a foolish hunter indeed that zooms his scope out at long range, as depicted, and zooms in to 20x for those close shots. It’s ridiculous. Invasion the first focal plane scope zoomed to 15x, aiming at the tiny, faraway deer on the left. The thick reticle would nearly obscure the deer.

What Do Fawns Eat?

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“Unraveling the Dietary Habits of Fawns: Exploring What These Delicate Creatures Consume for Nourishment”

1. “Exploring the Dietary Habits of Fawns: What Do They Eat?”

Fawns, which are young deer, have specific dietary habits that play a crucial role in their growth and development. These adorable creatures primarily rely on their mother’s milk during the early stages of their lives. The milk provides them with essential nutrients and antibodies necessary for their survival. This initial diet ensures that fawns receive a balanced intake of proteins, fats, and carbohydrates to support their rapid growth.

As fawns grow older, they gradually transition from a milk-based diet to consuming solid foods. Their diet expands to include a variety of vegetation such as grasses, leaves, buds, and shoots. Fawns are known to be selective feeders and may prefer certain plant species over others based on availability and palatability. Additionally, they may also consume fruits when available.

Dietary Adaptations

Fawns have evolved certain dietary adaptations that allow them to thrive in various habitats. For instance, they possess specialized digestive systems that enable them to efficiently extract nutrients from plant material. Their multi-chambered stomachs aid in breaking down cellulose-rich food sources like grasses.

Furthermore, fawns exhibit browsing behavior by selectively feeding on tender shoots and leaves rather than consuming large quantities of coarse vegetation. This behavior not only helps them obtain the necessary nutrients but also reduces the energy required for digestion.

In summary, understanding the dietary habits of fawns is crucial for conservation efforts and managing their populations effectively. By studying their feeding preferences and adaptations, researchers can gain insights into the availability of resources in different habitats and make informed decisions regarding habitat preservation and management strategies.

2. “Unveiling the Culinary Preferences of Fawns: A Guide to Their Diet”

The Delicate Palate of Fawns

Fawns, the young offspring of deer, have a unique and delicate palate when it comes to their diet. Their culinary preferences are shaped by their natural instincts and the availability of food sources in their environment. While adult deer primarily consume plant-based diets, fawns have specific dietary needs that cater to their growing bodies.

One of the key components of a fawn’s diet is milk. Just like human babies, fawns rely on their mother’s milk for nourishment during their early stages of life. The milk provides them with essential nutrients and antibodies that help strengthen their immune system. As they grow older, fawns gradually transition from a milk-based diet to a more diverse range of foods.

A Varied Menu for Growing Fawns

As fawns mature, they start exploring various food options to meet their nutritional requirements. Their diet expands to include tender shoots, grasses, and leaves from different plants. They particularly enjoy consuming succulent vegetation such as clover and alfalfa, which provide them with important vitamins and minerals.

In addition to plant matter, fawns also incorporate small amounts of insects into their diet. These tiny creatures offer an additional source of protein that aids in muscle development and growth. Fawns may feed on beetles, ants, and other small insects found in their surroundings.

Overall, understanding the culinary preferences of fawns is crucial for ensuring their proper growth and development. By providing them with a balanced diet that includes milk, plant matter, and occasional insect protein, we can support these young deer in reaching adulthood healthily.

3. “Feeding Time for Fawns: Understanding What They Nibble On”

Fawns, the young offspring of deer, have specific dietary needs during their early stages of life. Understanding what they nibble on is crucial for their proper growth and development. Fawns primarily rely on their mother’s milk for the first few weeks of their lives, as it provides essential nutrients and antibodies to boost their immune system. However, as they grow older, fawns gradually transition to solid foods.

What do fawns eat?

1. Grass and Forage: As fawns start weaning off milk, they begin to explore their surroundings and graze on grasses and other types of forage. These young deer often prefer tender shoots and leaves found in meadows or open fields.

2. Browse: Fawns also consume browse, which refers to the twigs, buds, and leaves of woody plants such as shrubs and trees. They may nibble on low-hanging branches or fallen leaves from a variety of vegetation available in their habitat.

3. Acorns and Nuts: Depending on the season and geographical location, fawns may have access to acorns or nuts from trees like oaks or beeches. These provide an additional source of nutrition that helps them meet their energy requirements.

4. Agricultural Crops: In some cases, fawns may venture into agricultural areas where they can find crops like soybeans or corn. While these food sources are not natural for deer, they can become a part of their diet if easily accessible.

It is important to note that while these are common food sources for fawns, their exact diet can vary based on factors such as geographic location, seasonal availability, and the overall health of the ecosystem they inhabit. Providing a diverse range of natural food options within their habitat ensures that fawns receive a balanced diet for optimal growth and survival.

4. “The Nutritional Needs of Fawns: Discovering Their Food Choices”

Fawns, or young deer, have specific nutritional needs that are crucial for their growth and development. Understanding their food choices is essential in ensuring their health and survival in the wild.

Fawn’s Dietary Requirements

Fawns primarily rely on their mother’s milk for the first few weeks of their lives. This milk provides them with essential nutrients, antibodies, and hydration. As they grow older, fawns gradually transition to solid foods. They start nibbling on grasses, leaves, and tender shoots found in their natural habitat. These plant-based foods provide the necessary fiber and carbohydrates for their developing digestive systems.

However, it is important to note that fawns also require protein-rich foods for optimal growth. They obtain this protein from sources such as insects, small mammals, and bird eggs. These animal-based foods supply them with vital amino acids necessary for muscle development and overall health.

To support the dietary needs of fawns, it is crucial to ensure a diverse range of food sources within their habitat. Maintaining healthy ecosystems with a variety of plants and insects will provide fawns with an adequate supply of nutrition throughout their early stages of life.

Overall, understanding the nutritional needs and food choices of fawns plays a significant role in conservation efforts. By preserving their natural habitats and promoting biodiversity within these environments, we can ensure that these young deer have access to the necessary nutrients for a healthy start in life.

5. “From Grass to Leaves: Unraveling the Food Selection of Fawns”

5. "From Grass to Leaves: Unraveling the Food Selection of Fawns"

Fawns, the young offspring of deer, undergo a fascinating transition in their food selection as they grow. This study aims to uncover the factors that influence fawn’s dietary preferences and shed light on their nutritional needs during different stages of development.

Factors influencing food selection

Several factors contribute to the food selection of fawns. One key factor is availability; fawns tend to consume what is most abundant in their environment. For instance, during the early stages of life, when grasses are easily accessible and highly nutritious, fawns primarily feed on grass. As they mature, however, their diet shifts towards leaves from shrubs and trees, which provide a wider range of nutrients necessary for growth.

Another important factor is taste preference. Fawns have been observed to exhibit selectivity based on taste, showing a preference for certain plant species over others. This indicates that individual fawns may have unique preferences when it comes to food choices.

Furthermore, maternal influence plays a role in shaping fawn’s food selection. The mother deer’s diet during pregnancy and lactation can affect the composition of her milk and subsequently impact the preferences of her offspring. If a doe consumes a variety of plants during these periods, it can expose her fawn to different tastes and increase its acceptance of diverse foods later in life.

Understanding the factors that drive the food selection of fawns provides valuable insights into their nutritional requirements at different developmental stages. It also highlights the complex interplay between environmental factors, individual preferences, and maternal influences in shaping an animal’s dietary choices throughout its life cycle. Further research in this area can contribute to wildlife management strategies aimed at ensuring optimal nutrition for growing populations of deer and other herbivorous species.

6. “Cracking the Menu Code: Decoding the Feeding Habits of Fawns”

6. "Cracking the Menu Code: Decoding the Feeding Habits of Fawns"

Fawns, the adorable young offspring of deer, have unique feeding habits that researchers have been trying to understand for years. In recent studies, scientists have made significant progress in decoding the menu code of these curious creatures.

The Importance of Milk

One key aspect of fawn feeding habits is their reliance on milk as their primary source of nutrition. For the first few months of their lives, fawns depend entirely on their mother’s milk for sustenance. This high-fat and nutrient-rich diet is crucial for their growth and development. Researchers have found that fawns consume milk multiple times a day, typically nursing from their mothers in short intervals.

Transitioning to Solid Food

As fawns grow older, they gradually transition from a milk-only diet to consuming solid food. This process usually begins when they are around two to three months old. During this time, fawns start nibbling on vegetation such as grasses and leaves alongside their milk intake. As they become more adept at chewing and digesting plant matter, solid food gradually becomes a larger part of their diet.

Understanding the feeding habits of fawns is essential for wildlife conservation efforts and managing deer populations effectively. By deciphering how these young deer obtain nutrients and adapt to different food sources throughout their early life stages, researchers can develop strategies to ensure optimal nutrition and survival rates among fawn populations.

Bill Jordan – About Realtree – Camo Fabric,Realtree Camo,Outdoor Camo,Jungle Camo – Shenzhen Dayton Textile Products Co., Ltd

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A stone’s throw from the back porch of the home where Realtree ® founder Bill Jordan grew up in Columbus, Georgia, Lake Oliver provided fabulous bass fishing for a young boy. Bill also often hunted dove and deer with his father, Leon, a devoted hunter who owned a small farm.

The Jordan home was the meeting place for all the neighborhood kids, and was always alive with activity. In addition to hunting, fishing and roaming the hills, Bill played football, basketball and baseball on a nearby vacant lot. That’s just what boys did in Columbus, Georgia, in the 1960s.

Bill’s mother, Kitty, who still lives in the same home where Bill grew up, remembers many times when he would get up at dawn, jump in his boat and fish until the last minute before grabbing a quick bite and heading off to school.

His classic American boyhood shaped Bill’s natural athletic skills and his love of the outdoors, and provided tremendous family support and permanence.

Bill attended Columbus High School, where he starred in track, basketball and football. Baseball was actually Bill’s best sport as a youngster, but he gave it up before entering high school, because it was difficult to play four sports at the high school level. After earning all-state honors as a receiver on the school’s winning football team, several major colleges (the Universities of Georgia, Auburn, Tennessee, and Mississippi) recruited Bill heavily in football and basketball. Bill decided on football, his best sport, and chose the University of Mississippi, primarily because of the abundance of good hunting and fishing within a short drive of campus.

At Ole Miss, Bill played on two bowl teams and started several games despite a problematic hamstring injury that sidelined him several times throughout his college career. During those years, one of Bill’s roommates was the great quarterback Archie Manning, who remains a good friend to this day.

When Bill graduated from college in 1973, his injuries kept him from considering a career in professional football, so he came back to Columbus to settle into the family boat business with his father and his older brother, Butch.

Bass fishing tournaments were quite popular at that time. Being an avid angler who was in the boat business, Bill made a natural progression into competitive fishing. Many of his customers and friends were also fishing the tournaments, which were a popular social activity in the Chattahoochee Valley. Bill competed well at local tournaments and earned a reputation as a top bass angler. After winning several tournaments, Bill entertained the idea of fishing the newly formed Bassmaster tournament circuit. Ultimately, Bill knew he needed to stay close to home to help his father and brother.

His competitive fishing skills were put to use, however. After starting his own business, Spartan Archery Products, in 1983, Bill continued to fish the local bass circuit to make an extra $2,000 to $10,000 a year to help pay his employees. After forming Realtree ® in 1986, Bill stopped competing in fishing events.

Spartan Archery Products grew out of Bill’s desire to own his own business in the hunting or fishing markets. He began by considering the things that hunters and anglers buy every year. He decided that camouflage t-shirts were a commodity item that he could easily manufacture locally and sell nationally. Bill made inroads to several major retailers with his Spartan brand t-shirts, but the profit margins were low, making it a tough business.

By the mid 1980s, the modern camouflage revolution was just beginning. Bill was one of the first to join the market.

He believed that overlaying a leaf pattern on a vertical bark pattern would produce a three-dimensional effect that would blend well with hardwood trees. So, using paper and colored pencils, Bill sat in his parents’ yard and sketched the bark of one of the big oak trees growing there. That tree, which still stands today, served as the inspiration for the entire Realtree line.

After a few false starts and some trying times in the late 1980s, Realtree grew quickly throughout the 1990s, becoming a household name in the hunting industry. Bill has never stopped innovating. He and his company, Jordan Outdoor Enterprises, Ltd., stay at the forefront of the latest developments in fabric design and printing in order to advise customers (licensees who pay a royalty fee to use the camo patterns) about the best ways to maintain quality and performance.

Today’s camo designs are created using sophisticated computers, digital cameras, and photo-realistic printing, and Bill continues to oversee the entire process of creating and launching each new camouflage pattern.

In the late 1980s, Bill began to realize the value of television and video for reinforcing his brand and selling his camouflage patterns. Bill became a pioneer in the hunting television and video industry, hiring David Blanton from LaGrange, Georgia, in 1991 to launch the wildly popular Monster Bucks ® video line and Bill Jordan’s Realtree Outdoors ® television show.

Bill also developed an interest in NASCAR racing in the late 1980s. He shared many hunting camps with two of the best drivers of his generation, the late Davey Allison and the late Dale Earnhardt. His association with the drivers eventually led to a friendship with Earnhardt’s car owner, Richard Childress. Today, Realtree is a secondary sponsor of the Childress number 29 car driven by Kevin Harvick.

Bill has never forgotten his humble start with a small company in the back room of his late father’s marine dealership. Despite many setbacks along the way, Bill persisted, creating an all-American success story. His genius for promotion has brought him, and Realtree, to where they are today. Bill remains a man of the people who is as comfortable among a group of Iowa farmers as he is meeting with the president of a large corporation.

Bill’s greatest joy is his family. Bill and his wife Shannon have three children, Tyler, Graycen and Colton. Bill and Shannon participate in every aspect of their children’s development. Their oldest son, Tyler, already appears in Realtree hunting videos and on television. And Bill loves the time he and Tyler share hunting and fishing.

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