Is there anything worse than lining up the perfect shot and having it miss because you didn’t check your bowstring? When it comes to your bow, it’s the bowstring that will go first. To keep this from happening at the worst of times, you need to know how to tell if your bowstring has gone or is about to go bad.

This article will focus on compound bows, but only because compound bows have more string issues than more traditional bows. This means that, if you’re using a longbow or a recurve bow, then you’ll also be able to find answers about your bowstring in this article because there are six key signs we look for:

Sign 1: Spotting a broken string or cable is a clear sign that your bowstring has gone bad and the only way to fix it is to replace it.

Sign 2: A frayed bowstring isn’t quite broken yet, but it is very close and will negatively affect your shooting experience, you can apply wax in an attempt to keep it together, but it is often best to just replace it.

Sign 3: As the string is pulled back shot after shot, stretching can occur. This is why you need to know how to recognize if you’ve overstretched your bowstring. Your bowstring will need to be replaced more often for stretching if you use it a lot.

Sign 4: As your bowstring gets older, there is a very real chance that it will stop being as waxy as it should be. A dried out bowstring is a sign that your string is going bad.

Sign 5: A bowstring is typically covered in a layer of thread called the serving. When this starts to separate from the string, you have an issue. This can be kept together with some tender care, but it is often a sign to replace your string soon.

Sign 6: Finally, if your bowstring is getting old, then it may be a good idea to replace it anyway because it’s just inviting problems. The older a string gets, the less structurally stable it is, and it is typically safer to replace before use.

So there you have it, six signs that your bowstring is going to need replacing. But if you really want to learn about each of these, then you will need to stick around to read the rest of the article.

Sign 1: A Broken String

This is the easiest problem to spot because it stands out. If you’re using a longbow or a recurve bow, then it will be literally impossible not to spot this problem. A compound bow will be a little different, however.

A compound bow doesn’t just have the main bowstring the way that a longbow does but rather it has quite a few cables that help in firing. These cables are all just as important as your main bowstring and, if any of them have broken, then you will have a hard time firing correctly.

These days, the material used for the strings and cables on your bow are most likely a highly durable fibre. These break less often than classic bowstrings, which had been made either from plants or the hide of hunted animals. However, these new synthetic fibres can break.

When you’re packing your hunting or target shooting gear, before you even leave the house, make sure you check your bow for any broken strings. If you are still new to archery and don’t know everything, you should check on your compound bow, then simply run your finger along each string and cable to see if it is broken anywhere.

Once you get to where you’ll be shooting, go ahead and check the strings one more time. This is a smart idea to do before you start shooting. Plus, if you run the finger test mentioned above, then this habit will also let you catch the next sign of a bowstring gone bad.

Sign 2: A Frayed String

A frayed string is harder to spot than a broken string because a frayed string is still fully connected. However, some part of the string is being rubbed against a solid object, and such can happen where the string meets the bow, or it is simply experiencing too much tension through usage and is starting to fray.

While a bowstring is made out of lots of fibres, they are worked into a string because each individual fibre isn’t very large. As these tiny strings begin to break apart, you see the larger overall bowstring fraying. If it is left without maintenance for a long time, eventually, a frayed bowstring will break.

If you are checking your gear before you leave the house, then you have the perfect opportunity to spot fraying. Many people notice that their bowstring is starting to fray, yet they keep using it anyway. They seem to think it will be easier to use the string a little longer than it is to simply replace it. They might even add some wax or something to the bowstring to keep it together, but there is no way to fix a frayed bowstring.

The section of your bowstring that is fraying represents the weakest part of your bow. As you continue to use it, you only manage to make it weaker. Eventually, the string has to snap, but you will be unable to predict when. It will happen when it does.

If you’re drawing an arrow when it snaps, which is likely considering how fraying happens, you are at risk of major injury. A string breaking on a compound bow has been known to cut through flesh and even muscle. Always, always check your string for fraying before use.

Sign 3: A Stretched String

Stretching your bowstring is the most important part of archery. If you can’t stretch your bowstring, then you can’t shoot an arrow. So, just how exactly can a stretched string be a bad sign?

What happens when you are shooting an arrow is that you are creating a tension in the bowstring. You are pulling it back when it wants to be at its resting position. When you let go of the bowstring it snaps back to this position. However, drawing back and firing your bow in this manner causes a release of energy within the bowstring, then on to the arrow. The more often you shoot, the more energy we are talking about. This energy appears in how the bowstring will start to stretch a little bit more each time it is fired.

As your bowstring begins to stretch, there isn’t much to worry about. It happens naturally anyway, and a little bit of stretch doesn’t really mess with your accuracy. But, as this continues, there will be a clear effect. More energy from each shot is absorbed by the bowstring, resulting in less energy making it to the arrow, thus also resulting in weak and inaccurate shots.

The stretching of the bowstring is called creep, and it typically happens somewhere between shooting 50 to 100 arrows. The fibers in the bowstring are being stretched out, making the string itself longer. Creep happens most often due to shooting, but poor storage of a bow in an overly hot location will also produce creep.

The only way to fix a stretched bowstring is to change it. You can’t shrink down a stretched string; you can only throw it out. Before you head out into the woods for some archery, try drawing back your bowstring a couple of times to see if it is as taut as it is supposed to be. If it isn’t, then you should replace the string.

This is one of the more common ways for your bowstring to go bad, as it happens naturally based on how much you are using it. Depending on the number of arrows you are shooting in a session, this could be a long time coming, or it could happen in a single afternoon. How often you experience a stretched string is entirely up to how much you shoot. If you shoot a lot, then you’ll want to keep extra bowstrings on hand whenever you go out.

Sign 4: A Dry String

A bowstring should be waxy. You may find that the string’s feeling in y0ur hand and fingers isn’t particularly pleasant; after all, when you first picture using a bow, you probably didn’t imagine the string as being waxy. However, this aspect is actually important for the string. A waxy bowstring is a functional bowstring, whereas a bowstring that has dried out is difficult to work with and reduces accuracy while increasing the risk of breaking.

Your bowstring needs to be waxed periodically. This is done by using a wax stick. These pretty much just look like a tube of lip balm, except you would run it over your bowstring rather than your lips. After you go over the string with the stick, make sure you use your thumb and forefinger to go over the string and work the wax into it fully. You can tell your string needs to be waxed when it feels dry to the touch, or if you see small hairs sticking out.

These hairs sticking out from the bowstring are often described as “furry” as in “I have a furry bowstring.” It is this furry look that is the most disconcerting. The furry aspect of the bowstring comes from where the fibres that make up the string are starting to wear. A fresh waxing will help to keep the hairs in place and looking slick but it isn’t the end all solution. In time, you will find that your bowstring is looking furrier and furrier.

As a bowstring begins to reach the end of its life, it gains more issues staying waxy. You will find yourself needing to apply wax more and more often to prevent it from becoming furry. When this starts to happen ,you know that you’ll need to replace your bowstring very soon. This is because a dry bowstring leads to a furry bowstring, which then leads to a frayed bowstring.

So, not only do you need to check your bowstring to see if it is dry or waxy, but you will also need to pay attention to how often you are waxing it as well. It is a good idea to keep a record of how often you are waxing your bowstring. This can be on a calendar or in a notebook, but it can be just as easy to keep the record in your phone. Seeing how often you need to wax will help you to get a better sense of how long the bowstring will last overall.

Sign 5: A Seperated String

A bowstring is covered by a layer referred to as the serving. This is a thread that covers up the fibres of string. Compound bows also have serving overtop of the various cables that the bow uses. The serving is mostly there to go over the nocking area of the bowstring and help keep the arrow in the same position, firing with the same amount of power.

A compound bow has serving typically over any of the areas where the bowstring or one of the cables comes into contact with any of the pieces of the bow, like the roller guard or string stop. Those who use a compound bow must make checking the serving a part of their regular maintenance and check-up. This begins with the bowstring but then stretches out into the other areas where the serving has been added.

Serving should be a tight coil that wraps around the bowstring. But, because it is still made out of a fiber, it can break just as easily as your bowstring itself. Over time, the serving begins to separate and come apart from the string and cables that it is protecting.

When checking your serving, keep in mind that you should replace any you see that are starting to separate. However, the serving around the nocking area is absolutely the most important, and it must be changed immediately because it will have a direct effect on your shot, your accuracy, and the safety of the bow itself.

Sign 6: An Old String

The final reason is that you simply have a bowstring that is too old. All of the previous signs arise from the use of the bow itself. Each part of the bow degrades over time due to repetitive use. This is a natural part of archery and something that every archer needs to learn to deal with.

However, another issue that could cause your bowstring to degrade is time. You should never, ever have a bowstring on your bow that is more than two years old. The same goes for the cables used by a compound bow. If you are firing your bow regularly, then you’ll never make it this long without replacing them, but if it’s in storage, then it is easy to let a lot of time go by before using it again. Replace the bowstring before you hit this range.

If you’ve never had to change a bowstring before, don’t worry; it really isn’t that hard. This informative video will walk you through how to change your string and your compound cables:

You can purchase new strings for your bow individually or in bulk. I like making use of both from time to time. For example, I like to keep a lot of strings around, but I’ll also splurge from time to time to get a more expensive string like this one. I find it helps give a sense of the real difference between bowstrings. Spoiler: often there is very little.

Old strings should not be trusted. As much as you may just want the ability to pull your bow out of storage and give it a couple shots, it is always best to replace the string prior to shooting. There is not a set timeframe that works to set when a string should or shouldn’t be replaced, but I won’t shoot a string that hasn’t been tested in over a year. It is just safer to replace it with a new one and check all the pieces in the process.

Outro

So there you have it—six ways you can tell that your bowstring is going bad, ranging from the obvious to the more stealthy. The important thing to understand about this topic is that none of what you read matters in the least if you don’t put it into practice.

This means that you absolutely must make checking your bowstring a regular part of using your bow. You should never, under any circumstances, start shooting your bow before you have inspected it. Your bow may be a simpler weapon compared to a hunting rifle, but it requires just as much care and respect to keep it firing correctly.

So, next time you’re ready to hit the range or woods to start taking some shots, make sure you stop and inspect your string first. It’ll make your life a thousand times easier in the long run.

If you’ve been looking at the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call by Duck Commander you might have a couple of questions.

You could be looking for the absolute best Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call review out there, with every little detail, or maybe you just want to find the lowest prices (which I’ve done for you below).

Well, no worries my friend. I promise you’re not going to find a better, more detailed review out there. After testing alongside several other duck calls and ranking according to five factors, here’s a few things I noticed about the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call.

Call Quality (35%) – 10

Out of any of the calls we tested, the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call sounded the best. We tested out this call using three different mallard hen sounds, and it handled each call like a champ. The quacks sounded great, and they were plenty raspy and sounded authentic. The greeting and feeder calls were great as well, with this call outdoing any other call we tested.

Volume (20%) – 8

This Duck Commander call was plenty loud. It had more volume than the Primos Mean Mallard but not quite as much as the Sheducktress. However, we found this call to be sufficient when reaching out long distances to call in ducks.

At lower volumes, the call is really raspy. However, when you add some more volume to the call it becomes a little cleaner, but that nice, raspy tone is still there.

Variety (20%) – 9

We gave the duck calls we tested scores according their ability to perform quacks, greeting calls, and feeder calls, and the ease in which you could transition from call to call. We found the Jase Roberston Pro Series duck call to do really well in this area. Feeder calls weren’t difficult to make, and transitioning from feeder sounds to greeting calls was relatively simple.

Durability (15%) – 8

This duck call performed well in our durability section. We purchased and tested the acrylic version of the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call and were very much pleased with it’s tough nature. Pulling the call apart to let it dry was difficult, and having it split in two while in the field doesn’t seem very likely. Every fits tightly inside the call, and we can’t foresee anything breaking in future years.

Learnability (10%) – 8

Learning how to use this call from Duck Commander was much simpler than most other duck calls we tested. It’s plenty raspy, and by using your hands, figuring out quacks was simple. Greeting calls took a little more time, and feeder calls were actually pretty simple with this call. It takes a lot less air and effort to really get a good call going.

The call’s packaging came with some relatively simple instructions on how to quack and then string that together into a greeting call using the word “ten”.

Overall Score For The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call – 89

Out of 100 this Duck Commander call came in with 91 points, a strong score. We were actually really impressed with this call, and weren’t expecting this type of quality coming from Duck Commander who’s pumping out thousands of calls a year.

We would definitely recommend the Jase Robertson Pro Series duck call if you’re looking to get into duck hunting or need a new mallard hen call. If you have something else to add, please let us know in the comments. And don’t forget to check out the lowest prices or some more small details below!

Low Prices (For Acrylic Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call)

• Amazon – $45.94
• Cabela’s – $59.99
• Walmart – $45.75

More Details About The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call

Little things matter. That’s why we’ve also included a section in this review that details every little thing you might want to know about this call.

The Engraving On The Mouthpiece Looks Great

Duck Commander was sure to include a laser-etched engraving on the mouthpiece, and it actually looks really nice. It’s just the Duck Commander logo with the name of the call, but it sure does add to its looks.

Cleaning The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call Is Simple

Cleaning this call is simple. You first pull the end of the call from the mouthpiece, which is a little tough and requires some tugging. However, once you remove the horn, you can then disassemble the reed and reed block and leave them to dry.

When reassembling the call, ensure the reeds tabs are facing up and that the reed is centered over the end piece. Then, put the reed block back in place and insert the assembly back into the mouthpiece.

The Jase Robertson Pro Series Duck Call Does Not Include A Lanyard

It doesn’t come with a simple lanyard, but it does have a deep groove that you can use to attach one.

Are you interested in trying out shooting sports? If yes, you have come to the right place.

Shooting is a sport that requires both physical and mental skills. Shooters strive for technical excellence with a steady hand and steely nerves. 

Shooters who compete in the Olympics put in years of practice and training before attaining high standards. 

People of all ages and abilities can enjoy shooting. Many clubs offer classes for beginners and competitive leagues for those who want to test their skills.

This blog post covers everything from Shooting Sports rules and procedures to different types of shooting sports guns and events. 

So, keep reading, whether you’re a beginner or just want to know all about shooting sports!

Types Of Shooting Sports Guns

There are many different types of guns used in shooting sports. The following are the most common types of firearms that shooters use in the Olympics.

Shooting Rifle

Rifles are long guns that are typically used for hunting or target shooting. It’s single-loaded in 5.6-millimeter caliber (the inner diameter of a gun barrel), which is used for all events. 

These guns are used in the sport of rifle shooting. Since rifles have a longer barrel than pistols and shotguns, they require two hands to hold and are often more accurate at longer ranges. 

Shots are fired from a standing position. Both men and women can participate in the 10m air rifle event. 

Pistol

A pistol is a short air gun that can be held in one hand. These airguns have shorter barrels than rifles and are less accurate at long distances.

The pistol used for the 10m Air Pistol competition is a single-loaded 4.5-millimeter pistol, while the Rapid Fire Pistol used in the 25m competition is 5.6 caliber with a five-shot magazine. 

In the Olympics, only men can participate in the 25m Rapid Fire Pistol event. 

Shotgun

Shotguns are long guns that have double barrels that are smooth-bore. They are used for hunting birds and small game. 

They are 12-gauge shotguns with a caliber of 18.5 millimeters. A gauge is a unit of measurement used to describe the barrel’s diameter. 

Shotgun activities include trap and skeet. Both men and women can compete in these shotgun shooting events. 

Shooting Sports Uniform

Shooters use particular jackets and cushioned trousers to improve their ability to focus on the target. That’s because the surface of the jackets is non-slippery, which ensures a good grip, primarily for rifle shooters. 

The extra padding in the jackets also helps to improve the shooter’s precision and provides a firm base for a perfect shooting position.

When it comes to shoes, sport-specific shoes are not a requirement. However, they can provide extra grip and ankle support. Some shooters also prefer to wear gloves to protect their hands from the gun’s recoil.

Blinders are another piece of equipment used by shooters. It helps the shooter remain focused on their target. It’s permissible for shooters to use blinders during shooting, which reduces peripheral vision and increases focus.

Shooting Sports Events At The Olympic Games

The shooting discipline has gained prominence in the Olympic Games since Athens in 1896. 

There are 15 events in the Olympic Programme of Shooting Sport, divided into three disciplines: Rifle, Pistol, and Shotgun. 

In the Olympic Games, there are events for both men and women. Olympics compete in six events for men, six for women, and three for mixed events. 

The following are three different shooting sports events that take place at the Olympic Games:

Rifle Event

In rifle shooting, shooters must fire at a target within a prescribed distance from a standing position. The targets are placed at a distance of 10metres. The event is divided into two subcategories: 50m Rifle 3 Positions event and 10m Air Rifle event. 

In the 50m Rifle 3 Positions event, shooters must fire at targets from three different positions: prone, standing, and kneeling. The 10m Air Rifle event is for both men and women.

Pistol Event

In pistol shooting, the target is placed at a distance of 25metres. The event is divided into three distinct subcategories: 25m Rapid Fire Pistol, 25m Pistol, and 10m Air Pistol. Shooters have to fire one-handed without any assistance in every category.

Shotgun Event

The shotgun event is one of the most popular events in the shooting sport. The event is divided into two distinct events: Trap and Skeet. In the trap event, shooters must fire targets that are released from a trap house. 

Shooters have to fire at a clay flying object diameter of 10cm in these events. The shooter has to throw the object at a speed of 100 kph.

Shooting Sports Rules

The shooting rules are governed by the International Shooting Sport Federation (ISSF). The ISSF is the international governing body for the sport of shooting.

Here are a few general rules and procedures that are followed in most shooting sports:

Procedures For Breaking Ties

If there is a tie during qualification rounds, the ISSF Rules will apply. The rules vary from event to event. A shoot-off will be used to determine the winner if there is still a tie. It will happen in the final stages of Rifle and Pistol events, not Shotgun events.

In Shotgun events, the person with the highest qualification score will win if there is a tie. If there is still a tie after that, there will be a shoot-off to determine who gets the gold and silver medals. 

Penalties And  Disqualifications

Shooters may protest the value of their shot by filing a score protest. If the shot is ruled as a miss, a two-point penalty will be assessed. The Classification Jury follows recognized procedures to resolve such protests.

If a shooter breaks the ISSF rules, he or she may receive a warning, a penalty, or be disqualified. The type of penalty will depend on the severity of the violation.

Warnings are given for minor infractions, such as not following the dress code. Generally, penalties are imposed for cross-fired rounds, while disqualifications are caused by failing the pistol weight test or the rifle clothing test.

Appeals And Protests

If an athlete or team believes there has been a mistake or injustice, they have the right to lodge an appeal or protest. ISSF rules specify protest or appeal timeframes for all shooting sports competitions. 

After all these issues have been resolved, the official results will be released. The Appeal Jury is the final authority on all appeals and protests.

Final Words

I hope you enjoyed reading this article. I have tried to explain all the basics of shooting sports in simple terms.

Shooting sports are a type of competitive sport where participants use firearms to hit targets.  

The sport requires a great deal of skill, concentration, and practice. To succeed, participants must control their accurately and precisely hit their targets. 

Shooters must also have strong hand-eye coordination and a steady hand to hit their targets consistently. 

Remember, practice makes perfect. So, if you are interested in taking up shooting as a sport, start practicing now!

When entering the world of fly fishing, there are certain aspects of it that become overwhelming. Learning the rod weights and correlating numbers takes time. Having a full understanding of these numbers will help you fish your waters in a much more efficient way. It took me several months to understand what weight rod I needed and when I needed it, but the extra research has paid off in the long run.

What do all the numbers mean on fly rods?

The list of numbers include weight, length, number of sections, action as well as the necessary size of the fly line. The higher the number, the larger the flies and line and the smaller the number, the smaller the flies and line.

Which Fly Rod Weight Should I Get?

Choosing the proper weight of a fly rod is going to allow you to better target the fish and do so in an efficient way. You can make the proper distanced casts and have enough power to fight fish.

2-3 Weight Fly Rods

These fly rods are a blast to use. They’re a bit limited in where they can be fished, but they create wonderful experiences. 2-3 weight rods are ideal for casting delicate flies at small trout in skinny water. At some points, you’re reaching out with the fly, dropping it a bit upstream and letting it drift down in front of the fish.

If you know you’re going to spend time on skinny water, do yourself a favor and pick up a finesse rod and enjoy all that it has to offer. They’ll allow you to really test your skills with presentation and casting.

You’re not going to throw 40-foot casts with these rods. Your max distance is going to be around 25 or 30 feet.

4-6 Weight Fly Rods

The 4-6 weight rods are the most common rods in a trout angler’s arsenal. These are perfect for small to large rivers. If you’re fishing out west in Montana, a 5 or 6-weight rod is perfect. You can get enough power to cast, but still delicately present flies if needed.

Many anglers choose to purchase a 4 to 6-weight rod for their first rig. It’s versatile and will fight the majority of freshwater fish that you find. If you know you’re interested in getting into the sport, but are unsure of what rod, then go with the 4-6 weight. You can throw streamers, dries and nymphs without having to worry about switching rods.

Guide Tip: I absolutely love 4 weight fly rods. Read what to use them for in this article 👉 What is a 4 Weight Fly Rod Good For

You’ll be able to throw 50 to 60-foot casts on a good day with some quality fly line. These rods are great to fish in rivers as well as still water. The versatility is ideal.

7-8 Weight Fly Rods

Your 7-8 weight fly rods are ideal for those larger freshwater fish as well as some saltwater fish. If you’re on your way to Alaska or Canada, a 7 or 8-weight will help in your attempts to catch steelhead. Also, these are great rods for pike, bass and muskie! Some would consider these to be a bit light, but depending on where you are, they’ll work just fine.

You can throw large streamers and poppers with these rods. They’re not great for finesse fishing due to the extra power that you receive with them. If you’re fishing flats or after other smaller saltwater fish, then the 7 or 8-weight would work well.

You can easily get 60 to-70-foot casts through strong current as well as larger lakes. At times, the extra power is necessary to help you get to the fish as well as fight them. While this is a bit more of a specialty rod, if you know you’re primarily after big fish, it’s well worth the investment.

Guide Pro Tip: Do you want a “general purpose fly rod” read this article for my recommendation 👉 What is the Best All Around Fly Rod

9-10 Weight Rods

Most anglers would say a 9 or 10-weight is perfect if you’re targeting salmon, striped bass, snook as well as other saltwater fish. You’ll see spey rods come in this weight as well! Again, they’re a specialty rod, but if you live in an area with these large fish or often travel to remote areas with large fish, then a 9 or 10-weight would work for you.

You can make extremely long casts with these rods and fight double digit fish with no problem! Streamers are going to be the primary flies you throw with a 9 or 10-weight rod. Get after those big fish and put it to the test. You won’t regret it! There are few things that are more fun than a salmon on a 9-weight rod. You have to give it your all.

10 and Higher

Any rod over a 10-weight is created to be used in saltwater. Targeting tarpon, Giant Trevally, Sailfish and other large saltwater fish is going to require as much power as you can muster. Saltwater fish fight much harder than freshwater fish and will fight to their death. You need to be prepared to throw a heavy fly, heavy leader and fight monstrous fish.

Saltwater fly fishing excursions are wonderful. If you’ve never tried it, give yourself an opportunity to do so. Hiring a guide will help you learn a lifetime of useful information. These rods tend to be a bit more expensive due to their specific use, but if saltwater is your primary water, then it’s well worth the investment.

Fly Rod Selection Chart

To help fellow fly flingers choose a rod, I’ve put together a chart and a download – FREE. Look it over and download a copy to your phone.

Click on the below picture to get the a 3 page download that talks all about fly rod definitions. The best part – It’s FREE

Fly Rod Action

After you have chosen the necessary weight of your rod, the next step is choosing the proper action. The right action is heavily dependent on your experience, skill level and the type of fishing you’re doing.

Fast Action

A fast action rod is great for experienced and strong casters. They have the least amount of flex of any action and that allows for a strong fight as well as power to cast through the wind. In order to succeed with this rod, your technique and timing needs to be in line.

Medium-Fast Action

A medium or moderate fast action is quite versatile. You’ll find many 4 to 6-weight rods are moderate-fast action. You can throw dries, nymphs and streamers with ease. You’ll find that these rods have a bit more bend in the blank and not quite as much power.

You won’t be able to cut through the wind as well as you would with a fast action rod, but it does the job. If you’re new to the world of fly fishing, go ahead and give a moderate or medium-fast action a try. Bringing one rod to the river is much easier than several! Many expert anglers still use a moderate-fast action rod because of the sensitivity it provides.

Medium Action

A medium action rod is a solid choice for new fly anglers. It’s even more forgiving than a moderate-fast action rod, but it’s not nearly as powerful. You have to be careful with the size of fish you target when using a medium-action rod. Since it has a bit more bend, you won’t have the power to fight a larger fish.

Many affordable rod options are made with a medium action. You’ll find lighter weight rods with this action because you can nicely lay down small dry flies with the more rod bend. You’ll see about half of the rod bending as you cast.

Slow Action

Many classic fly rods are slow action. They’re a perfect option for the anglers looking to fish small streams and gently lay down small dry flies. Nearly the entire rod bends as you cast. If you’re new to fly fishing and are spending time on small streams, a slow action rod is a great choice.

The rod won’t make you feel as if you’re losing control of your line as you cast. Beware of using a slow action rod in windy conditions! It’s not ideal and you won’t make much progress if you’re looking to make casts over 20 feet.

Fly Rod Length

Fly rods often vary in length, but there are a few standard lengths that you must have. Try to equate the length of the rod to the control you’ll have over the fly line. Often being able to reach out just a bit farther can make the difference.

9-Foot Rods

9-foot fly rods are common in 5 and 6-weights. These are long enough for you to throw dry flies, but also launch streamers quite a distance. A 5’ 9-weight rod is a great versatile option that you can use in almost any scenario that you would like.

8’ 6” Rod

8’ 6” rods are also another common length for 5 and 6-weights. They aren’t going to present dries as nicely, but they can work well with streamers and nymphs. The 8’ 6” length is the most versatile length that you’ll find on the market.

Rods Less than 8 Feet

Rods shorter than 8 feet are best used on small rivers and streams. They allow you to cast in tighter areas and do so accurately. If you know that you’ll be spending the majority of your time in skinny water, then a rod under 8-feet is going to be your best friend. Depending on your skill level, you can choose a different action.

Rods Longer than 9 Feet

Rods longer than 9 feet are often used for euro nymphing. These are ultra-finesse rigs and excel in tight conditions. Longer rods can be a challenge to cast and will get tangled in trees on the banks. However, they allow for a longer reach onto the water and extremely realistic fly presentations.

Number of Sections in a Fly Rod and Why

Most fly rods are either two or four pieces. When fly rods were first created, they were made in two pieces. As technology has developed, they are made primarily in four pieces.

As far as travel is concerned, a four-piece rod is ideal. You don’t have to pay to check your four-piece travel rod tube. If you travel with a two-piece rod, you’ll find that the majority of airlines are going to make you pay for it.

You’ll even find fly rods that break down to seven pieces. These will fit on a personal item in your backpack! If you can’t take much on the plane, but still want to fish, then the 7-piece rod is perfect.

What’s a Great All-Around Fly Rod?

A great all-around fly rod is an 8’6” 5-weight fly rod. You can use these on small rivers, lakes as well as large rivers. If you choose a rod with this weight and length, make sure you have a moderate-action.

This provides you with the sensitivity to lay down dry flies, but still gives you enough length to make those longer casts with streamers. An 8’6” 5-weight fly rod is one that you can always use no matter where you’re fishing. It’s not a bad idea to own a couple of these rods depending on how much fishing you do.

What Does a 5/6 Weight Mean?

A 5/6 weight rod is not uncommon to see. Essentially this means that the rod can hold both 5 and 6-weight line. If you do purchase one of these rods, it’s best if you go with a 6-weight line. It’ll give you a bit extra weight so you can make longer casts and get a true feel for the fly rod.

Do You Need More Than One Fly Rod?

The answer to this question depends on how much fly fishing you do. If you fly fish in large rivers, small streams and lakes, you’re going to want more than one fly rod. You won’t be able to fish all of these waters well with only one rod.

However, if you fish similar sized water and fish all the time, one fly rod will work great for you. If you’re like most fly anglers, you’ll quickly fall into the addiction of buying new fly rods.

Last Cast with the Perfect Weight Fly Rod

For beginners, choosing the right size rod can be intimidating. The numbers are confusing at first, but with a bit of research they all begin to make sense. If you match the rod, reel and line numbers, you should be in good shape. An improperly weighted rod is frustrating to use so make sure you put in the time to create a well-balanced setup.

Ham radio is an amateur radio system with a long and exciting history. There are well over 600,000 ham radio operators in the U.S. and 2 ½ million around the world. Despite its name, Ham radio is much more than a hobby. Ham operators have advanced the science of radio and electronics, provided emergency communications during countless disasters, and even worked with NASA. If you’re interested in Ham radio, you can begin with a modest setup and increase your investment of time and resources as your interest grows. There is more than enough going on in the field to keep your attention for a lifetime. This guide will explain just what being a ham operator entails, what you need to know about radios and antennas, how to get started, and where to find resources for education and licensing.

The Early Days Of Amateur Radio Operators

At the very beginning of the 20th century, people began building “wireless” radio sets from plans published in magazines and books. Interestingly, teenagers were among the earliest fans of the new technology. Not only was radio communication a novelty, but it was also easy for young people to get involved because of the low cost of building a basic radio.

Those early amateur radios were used mostly for entertainment. Being able to chat back and forth with someone in the next town or even one state over was exciting. Before the advent of amateur radio, telegraph offices were the only way to communicate over distances, and they charged by the word. Ham radio let people communicate for free from the comfort of home; however, on the earliest Ham radio sets Morse Code was the only available type of communication.

More advanced radio technology that made voice communication possible arrived just a few years later. The number of amateur radio operators grew, and eventually, problems arose with interference. At this point, the Federal Communications Commission stepped in and began requiring licensing to operate an amateur radio. They also restricted amateur radios to certain frequency ranges and introduced call signs to give each operator a unique identity on the air.

The Different Types of Ham Radio

There are three basic types of ham radio, each with its own strengths and drawbacks.

Handheld Radios

Handheld radios are easily portable and resemble large walkie-talkies. They have a short, rubber-covered antenna known as a “stubby” or “rubber ducky”. Handhelds are common at large public events, or in emergency situations when amateur radio service is needed for communication. Disaster situations wreak havoc on cell phone networks, either because everyone is trying to use their phone at once, or because power loss takes down the service. Because they run on batteries, handheld radios are ideal for emergency services. Even though the small antenna provides a limited range, the lower frequencies allow the signal to propagate further than other radios could.

Mobile Radios

Mobile ham radios are the nearest equivalent to CB radios. These book-sized units are typically mounted under a dashboard in a vehicle. Their control interface is designed to be simple enough for beginning radio operators, and most importantly, for drivers. Mobile radios use handheld push-to-talk microphones and often operate specifically in the 10-meter band, where they’re tailored for use on the road. They all have standard antenna jacks, and a variety of antennas can be used with them. This gives them a significantly longer range than other popular types of mobile radio. Mobile ham radios can transmit with up to 200 watts of power across the high-frequency band.

Base Stations

Base station radios are considerably larger than mobile radios, are installed in a stationary location, and are more complex to use. They provide communication in multiple ham bands and can handle both analog and digital modes; they may be combined with computers for digital communication. Base station radios are often connected to more than one antenna to accommodate both the VHF and UHF bands. Some of those antennas are quite large and are usually mounted to small towers.

Base stations are a lot of fun once you know what you’re doing. Using these amateur stations, operators can talk around the world by bouncing radio waves off either the ionosphere or satellites. They present an endless set of challenges and opportunities for operators. Unsurprisingly, the most technically-inclined ham operators often use base station radios. They have the additional training and experience needed to get the best performance out of the equipment.

How To Choose A Ham Radio

Once you decide to become a ham radio operator, you’ll be shopping for equipment. The features you choose for your radio will depend on how you plan to use your new license. Because ham radio has a learning curve, it doesn’t make sense to buy a more advanced radio than you’ll need at the beginning.

If you’re not sure about your level of interest, handheld radios are the least expensive option and make a great point of entry. Because of their limited range and somewhat specialized use, handheld models will only connect over short distances. If your main interest is contributing to emergency services, a handheld radio is ideal. If you want to communicate over a wider range, a mobile radio might be a better choice. Mobile radios are a cost-effective option because you can disconnect the radio from your vehicle antenna and use the radio at home as a base station, connected to a larger antenna. It’s important to make sure that any mobile radio you purchase has a built-in antenna tuner.

At Stryker Radios, we’ve streamlined the user interface on our mobile radios to make them easier and safer to use in a vehicle. Stryker also makes antenna selection easy, with radio antennas and accessories ideal for mobile ham radios.

Experienced ham radio operators may want to set up a base station so they can transit over long distances. However, true base station radio sets can be quite expensive. They are also more complicated to use, and using them improperly can cause problems for other operators. The features and capabilities of base station radios are beyond the scope of a single article; if you’re just starting out as a ham radio hobbyist, a base station is probably not the best choice.

Ham Radio Licensing

In order to use a ham radio, amateur radio operators are now required by the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) to obtain a ham radio license. There are three levels of licensing for ham operators. The introductory level is known as a technician license. The 35-question license exam is easy for most people to pass with a little studying, especially since they removed the requirement to learn Morse Code. Once you pass the test, your ham radio license is mailed to you, along with your amateur radio call sign.

The three amateur radio licenses have increasingly difficult qualifications:

• Technician Class: an entry-level license that grants transmitting privileges on the VHF and UHF bands used for local communication, and limited Ham bands for global transmissions
• General Class: expands transmitting privileges to long-distance, international communication via signal propagation, and increased voice operation on Ham bands
• Extra Class: provides access to the full range of Ham bands allocated to the Amateur Radio Service

Many beginners never feel the need to apply for a higher-level license because they enjoy operating a ham radio station with a technician’s license alone. For example, a growing number of people are moving from CB radios to 10-meter mobile radios in their vehicles. While CB radios have long been a mainstay for long-haul truckers, they are limited to a range of about seven miles. A Ham operator in the 10-meter band has more power and a range of 30 miles; having a technician’s license allows CB radio operators to use Ham radio as well.

Optics are a critical part of using any firearm. This tool impacts the way you see and will change how you fire. Two popular optics include the Holosun 507k and the EPS Carry. In this article, we’ll discuss each product to determine which is right for you.

Specifications

To determine which optic is the best choice, we will need to examine the specifications of each optic. Many details go into each product, from the reticle to the dimension of each product. Everything matters when considering the best choice.

We will go over the following:

• Footprints
• Reticle
• Battery
• Shake Awake Technology
• Housing
• Brightness Level
• Dimensions
• Pricing

Each makes a difference when comparing two optics.

Let’s dive deeper into each of the specifications. The more you know about the products, the easier it will be to choose the right one for your needs. First, we’ll talk about the footprints of each.

Footprints

The Holosun 507K and the EPS have the same footprint. The EPS has the same footprint as every optics device in the K series.

Thanks to this similarity, there is no difference between the mounting standard and the bottom surface of the red dot sight on either product.

Next, let’s talk about the reticle.

Reticle

Each product has options for multiple reticle systems. You can go with a 2 MOA dot or a 6 MOA option.

With the multi-reticle system, there is a standard 2 MOA dot and a 32 MOA ring, 2 MOA dot only, and 32 MOA ring in that order. If you pick the MRS selection, you also get Solar FailSafe. This addition allows constant charging with a quality solar-powered system.

Again, there is no winner in this category. Both products have multiple options to serve you well on the move. You may pick the reticle system that best suits your needs.

The battery is where the first differences emerge. Let’s discuss this source of power next.

Battery

The EPS Carry comes with a CR1620 battery. This device has 12,000 hours of life on circle plus dot, or 50,000 hours if you use the dot-only on setting 6. It will last even longer with a solar charging ability.

On the other hand, the Holosun 507K runs on a CR1632 battery. This option allows up to 50,000 hours of battery life on setting 6.

The CR1632 will last longer and provide more use than a CR1620 battery. The Holosun 507K is the winner in this category.

All Holosun devices come equipped with shake awake technology. Let’s talk about what this addition is next.

Shake Awake Technology

Shake Awake technology is an addition to Holosun’s optics that turns off the LED in the system when there is no motion detected. It’s designed to save energy and help the optic last for as long as possible.

Users may customize the amount of time it takes for the LED system to turn off in their settings. It’s also possible to turn off Shake Awake entirely, keeping all control to yourself.

The 507K and EPS Carry tie in this category. They both have the quality Shake Awake system.

Every optic comes in a shell to keep it safe. Let’s examine the housing for each product next.

Housing

The EPS Carry has a housing made of aircraft grade 7075 T6 aluminum. This product is one of the highest-strength aluminum alloys on the market, composed of zinc and copper as alloying ingredients. The housing is durable and meant to withstand significant damage.

The Holosun 507K has the same material protecting it from the outside world. You will receive the same benefits from this housing as you will with the other. However, it isn’t aircraft grade so it might not be as strong as the EPS Carry.

The winner in this category is the EPS Carry. Its aircraft-grade housing will help it last longer than the competing Holosun 507K.

Next, let’s consider the brightness level of the product. The better the illumination in a system, the easier it will be to see what you are aiming at in the dark and light.

Brightness Level

Both products have excellent brightness level features. Both choices have 12 levels of brightness options, eight for the daytime and four that are night vision compatible. They offer extensive visibility during every light shift while you are out.

There is no winner in this category, as both products have the same brightness level offerings. You’ll have plenty of visibility no matter which of the two you select.

We have two more categories to cover before landing on a winner. Next, let’s talk about the dimensions of each product.

Dimensions

The EPS Carry measures 1.62 x 1.19 x 0.95 inches. It weighs one ounce, and the window size measures .58 x .77 inches.

The Holosun 507K measures 1.6 x .98 x .95 inches. It weighs one ounce and has a window size of .58 x .77 inches.

These products are very similar in their dimensions, off by a fraction of an inch in the cases where there is a difference. We would say the EPS Carry is the winner, as it offers a slightly larger viewing window and device for the user.

Next, let’s talk about perhaps the most vital component – price.

Pricing

The Holosun 507K costs $320, while the EPS Carry costs $400. If you want a lower-priced EPS, nix the Carry for the EPS at $330.

When considering money, the Holosun 507K is the more economical option. It costs $80 less than the competing EPS Carry.

We’ve gone over the details of the Holosun 507K and the EPS Carry. Which one emerges as the best optics option for your firearm needs?

Conclusion

Although there are many similarities between these products, the winner is the Holosun 507K. It has a better battery life and doesn’t cost as much as the competing EPS Carry.

No matter which Holosun product you use, you are sure to have a quality experience. Each product comes equipped with items like the Shake Awake features and excellent optics, allowing for the best possible experience every time.

So you’re going on a safari to see the open plains and incredible wildlife of Africa? One of the most important details to check, before booking your trip, is what types of African safari vehicles, overlanding trucks, and other forms of transportation are used.

The range of safari vehicles is enormous. From walking safaris with enclosed transfer vehicles to pop-top 4X4 safari vehicles, and from 4-seater to 44-seater overland trucks. You can go bare-bones or air-conditioned high-luxury, local dugout mokoro, horseback, or air safaris for a bird’s eye view. The important thing is to choose the type of African safari vehicle or overlanding truck, and other means of exploring (or combination) that suits you, for the ultimate African safari experience.

We’ll start with the biggest African safari vehicles and end with the ‘on foot’ transportation mode.

Safari Vehicles, Overland Trucks & Ways to Explore Africa – Quick Links

1. Overlanding Vehicles (Overland Trucks)
2. Minibus or Microbus Safari Vehicles
3. Land Rover & Cruiser Safari Vehicles
4. Open Game Viewing Safari Vehicles
5. Flying African Safaris
6. Hot Air Balloon Trips
7. Shark Cage Diving Boats
8. Rubber Ducks
9. Dhow Sailing Boats
10. Game Viewing Boat Cruises
11. Mokoro Dug-out Canoes
12. Kayak & Canoe Safaris
13. Horseback & Camel Safaris
14. Walking Safaris (on foot & by vehicle)

1. Africa Overlanding Vehicles (Overland Trucks)

Africa Overland Truck

These expedition trucks are specially built to deal with the rough roads of Africa, where potholes, deep ruts, and river crossings are pretty ‘every day.’ They are normally used for longer and larger (12 to 44 people) overland Africa tours, so need to be able to carry a fair amount of equipment while still offering the budget traveler a relatively comfortable trip and good views of the passing scenery and wildlife.

African tour operators choose the best overland truck for each trip, according to the area being visited and the anticipated terrain that will be covered.

Overland Vehicle Seating Arrangements

Overland trucks may differ in their seating formation and size. Some have all forward-facing seats, while others may have some backward- or side-facing seats. The seats are generally raised, allowing for good views over the African landscapes, especially in grassy areas, where you want to be able to spot animals in the grass. Ask your tour operator about seating formation and how many are seated in a row – some overland trucks seat up to three per row, which makes seeing out a bit more difficult if you’re in the middle – before booking your overland tour.

Luxury Overland Truck

Windows, Pop-up Roofs, and Taking Photos on Overland Trucks

The overland trucks generally have large windows, some which open vertically, others horizontally – allowing for good views. Many of them also have a pop-up roof. This allows you to stand up and get 360-degree views and photos.

Luggage Space on Overlanding Trucks

All overland trucks are equipped with storage space (some lockable) for luggage and equipment – some under the seating section, others at the back of the truck, and some with a detachable trailer. Obviously, space is at a premium, so be sure to pack only the absolute essentials. Also, when packing, use soft luggage rather than hard (e.g. samsonite), as it is much easier to fit into lockers and overhead compartments.

Most overland trucks have a safe onboard for the storage of valuables.

Mobile Kitchen & Diner

Many meals while on safari are prepared and eaten out in the bush, far from civilization. The overland trucks are fully equipped for this. Most safari trucks have a ‘kitchen’ section (often fold-out, beneath the seating area) with a stove and hand dish-washing area. They also have a fridge/freezer/cooler boxes to keep supplies and drinks fresh in the African heat. Africa Overland Tours are thirsty work!

Safety First on Safari!

Safety is non-negotiable. Check with your tour operator that there is a fully-stocked First Aid kit onboard, safety belts on all seats, and some means of communication (radio, etc.), in case of emergencies while on safari. All legitimate tour operators have their client’s safety first in mind and ensure that their overland trucks are kept in a good condition and are reliable for long trips – larger fuel and water tanks, spare tires, knowledgeable and well-trained drivers, etc.

Overland Truck Gadgets

Modern Overlanding trucks come fully equipped with the modern gadgets that we’ve all got used to. With iPod/MP3 points, you can listen to your own soundtrack as you watch the African landscape slide by. They also have onboard charging facilities so ensure that your camera remains fully charged and you don’t lose that once-in-a-lifetime shot of a lion hunting his prey!

Luxury safari truck for small group overland tours

Some smaller tours use smaller overland trucks – seven to nine-seaters – which provide window seats only, so nobody has to be in a middle seat.

Luxury Overlanding Trucks

These are state-of-the-art 4×4 overland vehicles used on small-group overland tours. A custom-built luxury overland truck comfortably accommodates up to 12 guests. They are specially designed to provide extra space and amenities. This is the overland vehicle of choice for a more luxurious Overlanding Africa experience with all the adventure in added style and comfort.

Features include an onboard toilet and a water filtration system for purified drinking water on the road. The luxury overland trucks have reclining leather seats that rotate 180 degrees and lock into your preferred position (for example, window or front-facing).

Luxury Safari Truck for Overlanding Africa

Each seat has overhead air-conditioning vents that can be independently operated for individual control of airflow and temperature. Every seat also features a USB port panel for charging your electronic devices and there is a reading light above each seat. Each seat has a safety deposit unit with individual key code access, for storing your passports, phones, and smaller valuables.

Recommended Africa Overland Tours

• 20-Day East African Overland Tour – South or 20-Day Cape Town to Victoria Falls Overland Tour – Camping Safari

• Best of Namibia Safari Adventure – Overland Camping Tour

• Small Group Tours in Luxury Overland Trucks: South Africa Safari Adventure, Delta & Chobe Safari Adventure & Explore Namibia Safari Adventure

• More Overland Africa Tours

2. Minibus or Microbus Safari Vehicles

For smaller safari groups and shorter tours that don’t go through hugely rugged areas, adapted microbuses (or minibusses) are used. As safari vehicles, Toyota Quantums and Mercedes Sprinters are most commonly used. The optimal number in most of these safari vehicles is six to ten people, forward-facing.

Sprinter Safari Minibus

When booking a safari, find out from the tour operator which safari vehicle is used, and how many window seats there are, to ensure that everybody gets a window seat and has a good view of the spectacular scenery and amazing animals of Africa.

These safari microbuses are specially adapted for safari travel and are generally equipped with GPS tracking, sliding windows, cooler boxes, fire extinguishers, and First Aid kits. They generally have a softer suspension than other safari vehicles, giving a slightly more comfortable trip. Many of them – especially on Kenya Safaris – also feature pop-up tops, allowing travelers to stand and view/photograph the countryside and animals from the minibus.

Some minibusses are fitted with air-conditioning. This is a welcome relief from the sweltering African heat but may detract from the whole experience of Africa, as the windows will be closed, blocking out the sounds of the bush.

Recommended small group trips using minibus safari vehicles

• 5 Days Budget Masai Mara & Lake Nakuru Camping Safari

• South Africa’s Garden Route Adventure Tour

3. Land Cruising Safari Vehicles

Pop-top 4×4 safari vehicle by William Warby

Land Cruisers and Land Rovers are used on many safari tours. They range from ‘bare-bones’ models i.e. no added ‘mod-cons’, to highly specialized vehicles that may include air-conditioning, MP3 players, and slightly tinted windows for protection from the sun. Some of the newer safari vehicle models also have pop-up roofs, for added viewing potential, especially in Tanzania.

Safari Vehicle Seating Arrangements

These safari vehicles, in general, can carry four to six (extended version) passengers, all forward-facing. Check the seating configuration with your tour operator before booking. While extended safari vehicles can carry more people, they tend to be slightly more difficult to handle on the road. Most of the Land Cruisers are 4X4s, allowing travel over the rough terrain that Africa is known for… Have a look at images of the road into the Ngorongoro Crater if you want an idea!

While self-hire safari vehicle options are available, tour operators all have experienced drivers who, more often than not have extensive knowledge not only of handling the rough terrain but of the areas through which we travel.

Safety First on Safaris!

Most Land Cruisers are equipped with all possible safety features – fire extinguishers, First Aid kits, seat belts and many have airbags. They have specially designed fuel tanks to allow the economical use of diesel during long journeys and snorkels for travel through rivers.

Luggage Space & How to Pack (light)

In general, luggage is taken either in a trailer or packed on the roof, to keep the safari vehicle as uncluttered as possible inside, for your comfort. Remember to pack lightly!

Recommended 4×4 Trips in Land Cruiser Safari Vehicles

• Tanzania Lodge Safari to Serengeti, Ngorongoro & Tarangire

• Masai Mara, Samburu, Nakuru 4×4 Kenya Lodge Safari

• 4×4 Ethiopia Tour – Danakil Depression & Awash National Park

4. Open Game-Viewing Safari Vehicles

Open African safari vehicle on game drive

Within many of the game parks, smaller, open-sided, or completely open safari vehicles are used for game drives. While these are not suitable for long distances – wind, dust, sun, and Africa’s elements can be harsh! – they are great for game drives as they allow you to get up close and personal with the sights, sounds, and smells of the African bush.

These safari vehicles are most often adapted Land Cruisers which seat between six and nine passengers. Some are designed with tiered seating so that nobody’s view is blocked by the person in front of them’s head!

Open African safari vehicle

Protection from The Elements

Due to their being open to the elements, it is vital to protect yourself against the African sun. Hats, scarves, and windbreakers are all excellent shields from fiery hot UV rays. Many of these open safari vehicles do have canvas/plastic canopies that can be closed if the weather becomes uncooperative. Thunderstorms in Africa can be wild, and come on within minutes!

Safari Drivers & Trackers

Most often when going on game drives, there will be a driver and a tracker (often sits on the front of the car, allowing him to track spoor and dung.) The trackers are highly experienced, and allow one to see the best Africa has to offer in wildlife.

Recommended trips with open game-viewing

• Chobe, Moremi & Delta Botswana Camping Safari

• 6-Day Kruger Park & Private Game Reserves Safari (Lodge)

5. Bird’s-Eye View Flying Safaris

Plane view of the Okavango Delta by Justin Hall

‘Air safaris’ are offered at various places in Africa, like Victoria Falls and the Okavango Delta. A flight over the delta in a small plane gives you an idea of the vastness of the area. A helicopter flight over Victoria Falls will make you feel like an eagle soaring above this spectacular area!

Helicopters on Safari

The ‘vehicles’ used differ from operator to operator. The helicopters used at Victoria Falls are generally 4- or 6-seaters and many have bubble windows, allowing for good viewing. Do remember that, in the 6-seater, you may land up in the middle seat, making seeing out slightly more difficult.

Light Planes on Safari

In the Okavango Delta, many of the lodges are only reachable by air, especially during the wet season. Many small plane charters are available both as a means to get to the lodges and for a birds-eye view of the delta and spectacular photographic opportunities – a once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Small plane flights on safari

Recommended safaris with flying components

• Victoria Falls Budget Tour Package (Zimbabwe)

• Okavango Delta & Chobe Accommodated Safari (North)

6. Hot Air Balloon Rides

Hot air ballooning over Serengeti Park by Wajahat Mahmood

What could be better than watching the sun rise over the Serengeti while floating gently above its vast plains in a hot air balloon? Nothing, really. Hot air balloon rides are offered at various places in Africa (like Masai Mara and Serengeti) and provide an incredible, thrilling, bird’s-eye view of the vastness of Africa, dotted with wildlife.

Recommended trips with balloon safaris

• 4-Day Masai Mara Luxury Camping Safari – optional hot-air balloon trip over Masai Mara, Kenya

• 12-Day Kenya & Tanzania Budget Lodge Safari – optional hot-air balloon trip over Serengeti, Tanzania

7. Boat to the Great White Sharks

Shark diving safari by Kim Nowacki

The boat used for our Great White Shark Cage Diving trips in South Africa is a custom-built catamaran. Combining comfort, stability, speed, and safety, this boat ensures not only a good trip for you but also promises minimal interference in the shark’s natural habitat.

The custom-built shark cage diving boat is typically a 46-foot (14m) long catamaran with a spacious upper deck for surface views of the sharks and other marine animals and platforms for the bait and decoy handlers to ensure the best possible shark viewing. It is a lightweight aluminum vessel powered by four big four-stroke 300-hp outboard engines and is equipped with the most advanced electronic navigation equipment.

Great white shark cage diving boat

Staying dry and comfortable

Featuring a spacious indoor cabin, as well as separate wet and dry outdoor decks, the design ensures that when you’re wet, you’re wet, but once you’re out and want to be dry and comfortable, you can be. The boat usually features a central dining area, storage facilities for personal items, and both male and female toilets.

Gadgets

Electronically, the boat is fully equipped with a tracking device, radios, GPS, radar and navigation equipment, depth finder and echo sounder, and even a 12V charging facility for cameras, cell phones, and laptops.

Safety – yours and the shark’s

Safety is of utmost importance and there are life vests for all passengers, fire extinguishers, a life raft, and capsize bottles on the boat. In case of medical emergencies, there are two onboard First Aid kits, oxygen cylinders, and fluid replacement.

Not only is your safety cared for, but that of the sharks too. The cage has no sharp points or edges that could hurt the animals. The cage itself is specially constructed of reinforced steel and can take five people comfortably. It is lowered and winched back up using a winch from a sturdy gantry. Oxygen is supplied from the boat to divers via a ‘hookah’ system with hoses running into the cage.

This, too, is a once-in-a-lifetime experience. There’s not much more exhilarating than coming face-to-face with a Great White in its own habitat!

Recommended shark diving tours

• 2-Day Great White Shark Dive Package

• Great White Shark Cage Diving Day Tour

8. Rubber-Ducking the Gorges

Rafting the Zambezi on safari by Martijn Munneke

Jinja, in Uganda – where the longest river in Africa, The Nile, begins at its source, Lake Victoria – is one of the top whitewater rafting destinations in the world. Add in Victoria Falls, the Fish River Canyon, and the Orange (Gariep) River, where various boat options are offered, from boogie-boarding the rapids through canoeing to rubber ducking both flat water and white water, and it’s an adrenaline junkie’s dream. Your trip choice depends completely on your adrenaline requirements/limits!

Whichever you choose, be sure to check that the tour operator follows all safety regulations, ensuring that you have a safe, enjoyable trip through the gorge. Life jackets and helmets are non-negotiable, these waters can get wild, and a knowledgeable, trained guide will ensure you get the most out of your trip.

Recommended trips with rubber ducking

• Victoria Falls Adventure Tour Package (Zambia)

• Masai Mara & Gorilla Trekking Overland Tour or Uganda Safari & Gorilla Trekking Tour

9. East African Dhows (sailing boats)

East African Dhow sailing boat by Cesar Gonzalez Palomo

There is nothing quite so beautiful as seeing a traditional dhow gliding through the warm, azure waters of the Indian Ocean. Originally used for trading, these long, narrow boats with triangular sails, expertly sailed by locals, are used along the east coast of Africa.

So whether you’re heading off to the Bazaruto Archipelago or exploring the coastline of Zanzibar, do yourself a favor and catch a ride on one of these graceful sailing vessels.

Recommended trips with dhow safaris

• 22-Day Zambia, Malawi, Mozambique & Kruger Safari

• 5-Day Zanzibar Holiday Package – Adventure Tour

10. Game Viewing Boat Cruises

One of the best ways to watch wildlife and birds on safari in Africa is without a doubt by boat. It’s hard to compete with a laid-back sunset cruise. Exceptional wildlife and bird sightings along the rivers and estuaries in top game reserves of Africa. Stunning scenery. Chilled sundowners and snacks or dinner onboard. Easy-paced, yet exciting and novel.

The boats used on boat cruises vary but they are typically open-sided motorboats. The larger boats offer standing and sitting room and are sometimes double-deckers.

Chobe boat cruise in Botswana

Chobe National Park in Botswana is one of the best places for boat-based game viewing in Africa. Another favorite spot for scenic boat cruises is the Zambezi River near Victoria Falls. There are plenty of other great destinations for game-viewing boat cruises, from Uganda to South Africa.

Recommended Safaris with Game-Viewing Boat Cruises

• Botswana: 5-Day Chobe & Okavango Delta Lodge Tour or Botswana Exclusive Camping Safari to Chobe & Okavango – include Chobe River boat cruises (as with most Chobe Safaris)
• Uganda: Gorilla Trekking & Queen Elizabeth Park Safari – includes boat cruises on Kazinga Channel (Queen Elizabeth Park) & in Murchison Falls National Park

11. Winding Through the Waterways in Mekoro

Mokoro in Okavango Delta, Botswana

If your safari includes a trip into the Okavango Delta, you will more-than-likely experience the gentle pleasure of a trip in a mokoro canoe. Check with your tour operator that this is included as part of the package, or offered as an optional activity. You don’t want to miss out on this opportunity to get up close and personal with the prolific birds and wildlife – including elephants, hippos, and crocs – of the Okavango Delta.

Mokoro History

These traditional dug-out canoes are made of wood and guided by a ‘poler’, who stands at the helm. While originally made from indigenous trees, such as the Kingella or ‘Sausage Tree’, they are increasingly made of fiberglass these days. While not as ‘authentic’, this is preserving the indigenous trees of the area and provides just-as-good a means of transport through the spectacular waterways of the delta.

Experienced polers

Many people are afraid of hippos overturning a mokoro. While this is not an impossibility – this is Africa, after all, and you’re in their habitat – the polers are experienced in the area and are very aware that hippos are territorial creatures. They are sure to avoid dangerous situations.

A trip on a mokoro allows you to get as close to the sights and sounds of Africa as is physically possible. Don’t miss out on this once-in-a-lifetime experience.

Recommended safaris with Mokoro canoe trips

• Botswana Parks & Okavango Delta Budget Lodge Safari

• Budget Delta Mokoro Trail & Savuti Safari

12. Kayak & Canoe Safaris

If you’re a kayaking or canoeing enthusiast this is the ultimate game-viewing safari vehicle for you. Watch the wilderness glide by as you paddle quietly along the rivers and waterways of Africa. A canoeing or kayaking safari gives you more independence than a mokoro trip where a guide poles you along.

The canoes and kayaks used on safaris vary widely, ranging from inflatable canoes to rugged old-school kayaks.

Zambezi canoeing in Zambia

Some canoe safaris offer game viewing opportunities along the riverbanks and even in the waters whilst most are more about taking in the wild scenery and spotting birds.

Recommended safaris with canoe or kayak trips

• 16-Day Zambia & Malawi Small Group Safari or 4-Day Victoria Falls Tour in Zambia – include Zambezi River Canoe Trips

• 4-Day South Africa Garden Route Tour – includes Canoeing in Wilderness National Park

• 15-Day Zambia & Malawi Small Group Budget Safari – includes kayaking on Lake Malawi

13. Explore the African Bush on Horseback or Camelback

An incredible way to experience the bush up close! Horseback safaris are allowed in certain game reserves so if you want to experience the bush on horseback you’ll need to pick your destinations accordingly. Two of the most popular African safari destinations that offer horseback safaris are Victoria Falls (Zambia or Zimbabwe) and Big 5 game reserves near Cape Town in South Africa.

Horseback safaris Cape Town

For a whole new experience, you can explore Africa by camel. An entirely unique and exotic mode of transport indeed. Camelback safaris are far rarer than horseback safaris. You can only embark on a camelback adventure in a few places, including parts of East Africa.

Recommended trips with optional horseback safaris & camelback safaris

• Experience Southern Africa Exclusive Budget Safari & Zimbabwe & Botswana Safari (Lodge Tour) – optional horseback safaris at Victoria Falls

• 3 Day Big 5 Cape Town Safari & 2 Day Big 5 Cape Town Safari – optional horseback safaris at Aquila Game Reserve

• Lake Turkana & Northern Kenya Camping Safari – includes an overnight camelback safari in Tuum (Samburu District of Kenya)

14. Walking Safaris in Africa

Walking safaris in Africa

This is (obviously) only an option once you are in the game reserve. Depending on the safety i.e. the presence of dangerous predators, many game reserves offer guided walking tours. This is the ideal way to get a true, African, wildlife experience. By walking through the bush all your senses experience Africa – sight, smell, sounds, touch – unadulterated by the sound of motors and really off the beaten track.

Guides and trackers

Most reserves have highly experienced guides who are a fountain of knowledge regarding the fauna and flora of the area and are excellent trackers. This allows you to not only experience the bush but also learn all sorts of fascinating facts while seeing the birds, insects, and animals that call Africa ‘home.’

Walking safari guide in Kenya

If you have the opportunity, do not miss out on a walking safari. You can’t get closer to nature than this.

Recommended walking safari trips

• 4-Day Kruger Park Walking Safari or 5-Day Kruger Safari – Hiking Tour

• South Africa Walking Safari to Kruger & Zululand

• 7-Day South Luangwa Tented Camps Walking Safari

Talk to an Africa travel expert to find the ideal types of safari vehicles and other transport modes for your trip to Africa.

African safari vehicle in Kruger

[Updated in 2022: originally posted in 2014]

The winter of 2017 has seen some pretty drastic temperature swings across North America. In fact, within the last 30 days we’ve seen air temperatures of 70 degrees at BWI airport in Baltimore, Maryland and 7 degrees just south of Birmingham, Alabama. When it’s warm out and water is available, deer get by no problem. However, what happens when the temperature drops and surface water begins to freeze? How do deer satisfy their basic daily requirement for water? Recently, I answered this question for an avid QDMA member in the #AskQDMA video shown above.

Deer get water from three major sources:

1. Free water: These are natural bodies of water from puddles, streams, seeps, springs, lakes or ponds, as well as cattle troughs and other man-made catchments. Basically, liquid water you can see and touch.
2. Preformed water: This is water found in food that deer eat. Its availability varies depending on the time of year and what vegetation is available. During spring and early summer the majority of a deer’s diet is comprised of forbs and other herbaceous material, which tend to be very succulent (high water content). When those types of plants disappear, what is left are plants that generally have less water in them – such as older leaves, needles, buds and twigs on woody shrubs and saplings.
3. Metabolic water: This is water that is released from food during the digestion process as a result of oxidizing carbs, fats and protein found in plants.

It’s important to note that the reasons deer need water actually fluctuates throughout the year as well. Water consumption helps control some basic, year-round things for deer such as daily metabolic function, waste excretion, and transporting nutrients and minerals throughout the body. But there are other seasonal or age-related influences too, including gestation, lactation, thermoregulation(keeping ‘em cool in summer and warm in winter) and growth, for younger deer. Taking that into consideration, it’s safe to say deer need water most in spring and summer when biological and seasonal conditions warrant it. Luckily, this time of necessity coincides perfectly with a period when preferred foods are available and full of water.

Even when free water is abundant in any form, deer still satisfy most of their needs through preformed water, which is water in their food.

Deer will obviously stop, bend down like Bambi and drink free water any time its available. Or, they may eat snow in winter, too. However, even when free water is abundant in any form, they still satisfy most of their needs through preformed water. This is especially true in places with adequate precipitation, which is much of their natural range in North America.

When free water is scarce, such as in a severe drought or the extreme Southwest, deer are obviously forced to get almost all of their daily water requirements from the other two categories. As you probably noticed, each are directly related to diet. What’s interesting, though, is as their foods diminish in water content, the more they need water, just like you or I would need a big gulp of water after eating nothing but dry food for days on end. Thus, it’s a catch-22. The drier the food, the more they need water; but, during a drought there isn’t any or it occurs ata time when foods are low in water anyway. That’s why drought years impact deer productivity so much that you see drastic fluctuations in population and even antler size in arid regions, like south Texas. The lack of water limits their ability to thrive and grow.

What about in the extreme North? When all the free water is frozen, isn’t that just as tough as southern drought conditions? Not so much. It sure would take a lot of snow consumption to equal 8 ounces of water. But, because their overall water needs are reduced this time of year, and because deer get most of their water from foods they eat anyway, northern deer satisfy most of their winter water requirements by eating green needles within reach on coniferous trees, like hemlock and white cedar, the last year’s growth of buds and branches on numerous deciduous saplings and shrubs, live bark off both, and even acorns and other hard mast that they can find under the snow. During winter, northern deer also have the unique ability to recycle their urine and dry their feces internally to conserve water as well. Pretty neat.

So, the next time you see a news clip of a deer stuck on the ice and hear the anchor mention the deer must’ve been looking for water – just yell “hogwash” at the screen! He or she must have water on the brain.

Feb. 4, 2019

Suggested Tweet: Northwest #Florida #deer rut brings #hunting opportunities: https://content.govdelivery.com/accounts/FLFFWCC/bulletins/22cf0b1 via @MyFWC

February “Outta’ the Woods”By Tony Young

FWC white-tailed deer research biologist Elina Garrison with a doe captured during the South Florida Deer Research Project. FWC photo.

The truth about Florida’s deer rut

There are a lot of theories and differing opinions on what causes the white-tailed deer rut. Hours of daylight decreasing, geographic latitude, genetics, climate, evolution and moon phase are many factors that hunters and deer enthusiasts have debated over the years. To get to the science behind it and learn the facts about what impacts the rut, I asked the Florida Fish and Wildlife Conservation Commission’s (FWC) white-tailed deer research biologist Elina Garrison.

“As winter approaches, decreased daylight triggers does to come into estrus,” Garrison said. “Latitude therefore plays a part as seasonal day length varies with geographic latitude.”

Some hunters believe deer from other states released in Florida years ago is one of the reasons why the deer rut here is the widest ranging of any state – from July in extreme south Florida to early March in extreme northwest Florida and the Green Swamp Basin.

“While it seems unlikely that genetics due to restocking is the only explanation for the variation in Florida’s breeding dates, there is some research that suggests it may play a part,” Garrison said. “Florida, as were many other southeastern states, was part of restocking efforts in the 1940s through the ’60s when deer were introduced, mostly from Wisconsin, Texas, Louisiana and Pennsylvania. The main stocking source for the Green Swamp Basin was from Louisiana. South of there, deer from Texas were mainly used, and north Florida received mainly Wisconsin deer.”

Garrison said climate is a factor, but it really only plays a part in northern, colder states, where the timing of the rut occurs so fawns are born in the spring after the late winter storms and when the most food is available. But they must be born early enough to put on suitable weight and fat to survive the following winter. That’s why there’s such a short window for when breeding must occur in northern states.

The reason the rut varies so much in Florida is because it can, Garrison said. Florida’s relatively mild climate and long growing season allows fawns to be born at various times of the year.

“As far as I know, there are no other states where breeding occurs as early as July and August like it does in extreme south Florida,” she said. “And although difficult to prove, it seems likely it is driven by the hydrological cycles down there. The rut is timed so fawns are born during the driest time of the year, giving them the greatest chance of survival and allowing them to grow to an adequate size before the beginning of the wet season in June.”

Although it is a popular theory among hunters, Garrison says several research projects have proven there is no relationship between the rut and the moon phase. Another interesting fact is the average time a doe stays in heat is about 24 hours.

“The breeding chronology study we did shows that conception dates within an area vary as much as from nine to 110 days, with an average of 45 days, and most does breed within 60 days, meaning rutting activity can occur over a two-month period,” Garrison said.

If a doe is not bred during her first heat, she will come back into estrus again in about 26-28 days, Garrison says. If the doe doesn’t conceive, this cycle can be repeated but normally not more than a few times unless there are not enough bucks to breed all the does. In which case, an area could experience a second or even third peak rut.

If any of this deer talk is getting you fired up to continue hunting this season, then grab your favorite primitive method of take and follow the rut up to the Panhandle and take advantage of Zone D’s late muzzleloader season.

General gun season ends Feb. 17 in zones B and D, but if you’d like to keep hunting deer, Zone D has a late muzzleloading gun season that extends deer hunting opportunities by a week and runs Feb. 18-24 on private lands. The season was established to give hunters an opportunity to continue hunting northwest Florida’s late rut, which runs mid-January through February.

On private land, a $5 muzzleloading gun season permit is required along with a hunting license and $5 deer permit (if hunting deer) to hunt during this season, and hunters have the choice of using a muzzleloader, bow or crossbow. But the only muzzleloaders allowed are those fired by wheel lock, flintlock, percussion cap or centerfire primer (including 209 primers) that cannot be loaded from the breech. For hunting deer, muzzleloading rifles must be at least .40-caliber, and muzzleloading shotguns must be 20-gauge or larger.

There are 14 wildlife management areas in Zone D that have a late season in February, but it’s referred to as the archery/muzzleloading gun season. Those areas are Apalachicola, Apalachicola River, Beaverdam Creek, Blackwater, Chipola River, Choctawhatchee River, Econfina Creek, Eglin AFB, Escambia River, Escribano Point, Perdido River, Point Washington, Tate’s Hell and Yellow River. Season dates vary by WMA, so be sure to check the brochure for the area you want to hunt.

Hunters may use bows or muzzleloaders, but no crossbows – unless they possess a Persons with Disabilities Crossbow Permit. Besides a hunting license, $26 management area permit and deer permit (if hunting deer), hunters who choose to hunt with a bow must have a $5 archery season permit, and those using a muzzleloader need a $5 muzzleloading gun season permit.

All the licenses and permits you’ll need can be obtained at most retail outlets that sell hunting and fishing supplies, Florida tax collector offices, by calling 888-HUNT-FLORIDA or at GoOutdoorsFlorida.com.

Deer and wild hogs are most commonly hunted during this season. Only legal bucks may be taken (even if using a bow). South of Interstate 10 in Deer Management Unit D1, one antler must have at least two points. North of I-10 in DMU D2, all bucks must have at least three points on one side or have a main beam of at least 10 inches long to be legal to take.

On private land, the daily bag limit is two. Bag limits for deer on WMAs differ, so consult the area brochure before you go.

During the late muzzleloader season on private lands and archery/muzzleloading gun season on WMAs, dogs may not be used to hunt deer. However, you may use a leashed dog for tracking purposes. You’re allowed to take deer and hogs over feeding stations on private land, but it is illegal to use such feed on WMAs. And it’s important to know that turkeys are not legal game during this season.

The 2018-2019 fall/winter hunting seasons may be winding down, however, there are still great opportunities to get out there. This February, catch the hunting excitement of the late rut that occurs during Zone D’s late muzzleloader season.