Processing Squirrel Meat

Squirrel hunting can produce a substantial amount of extra meat for your dinner table, but once you have a squirrel in hand…how do you process it? Processing squirrel meat is a pretty simple process that requires just a little time and a sharp knife. As with anything that has been around as long as the processing wild game, there are several ways one can complete the task. For simplicity purposes we will examine just one, the one I use and find to be the simplest.

Before we begin processing the squirrel I’m going to assume a few things.

1. The squirrel has previously been skinned (field dressed) and all organs have been removed.
2. The feet on all legs, head and tail have been removed. If these are not completed, please do so before moving on.

If you were using a shotgun to get the squirrels, search the outer parts of the meat for pellets. There is nothing worse than chipping a tooth over dinner. Also, if the meat is bruised due to pellet or bullet penetration you may want to consider soaking the squirrel for a few hours (or overnight) in a solution of salt water. This usually “draws out” the bruising in the meat considerably well.

How to Process Squirrel Meat

Let’s begin:

Front Legs:

Cut from underneath the front leg (armpit area) in an upward motion severing the leg from the body. The socket where the front legs meet the shoulder isn’t very strong and should slice through rather easily. Repeat for other front leg.

Rear Legs:

Cut along the spine (tailbone) until you are able to “bend” the entire leg downward, breaking the socket loose, to remove the leg. Repeat for the other rear leg.

Another thing to do with the rear legs is to remove the small pocket of fatty tissue that is hidden below the surface of the meat, behind the knee. Slide the knife into the meat just enough to puncture it and dig the fatty tissue out. It isn’t a requirement to remove this but most people do so. Leaving it will not adversely affect the taste of the meat.

Torso:

Remove the “flappy skin” that covered the organ casing (belly meat) if you like. Some people choose to trip this meat from the rib cage down to the hip area while others keep it for the small amount of extra meat value. The choice is yours. I usually trim it if I’m going to fry the squirrel but if I use it for a stew or pull the meat from the bone, I’ll leave it attached.

Cut upward just below the bottom rib until you make contact with the backbone. Repeat for the opposite side. Grip the rib cage in one hand and the remaining bottom section in the other and twist. This will break the rib cage free for discarding (there is hardly any usable meat there). This will leave the area from just below the rib cage to the tailbone. Along the back is the loin area and can be cooked along with the legs.

Final

Lastly, remove the lower section of the tailbone (from the back section mentioned above) where no meat is present and discard the tailbone. You will now have all four legs and the back meat section to use for cooking, grilling or stews.

Note: Some people choose to soak the meat overnight in salt water or buttermilk. Some claim that this takes the “gamey” flavor out of the meat. I’ve tried this and do not notice a difference in taste. Plus, if you have an aversion to the flavor of squirrel…I have to ask…what are you doing reading this anyway?

Watch the video tutorial below:

How to preserve a squirrel hide

Preserving a squirrel hide acquired during squirrel hunting can be a fun activity for any young hunter. It can enable them to save their first squirrel or to learn about hiding preservation. Of course you have many other reasons to want to preserve a squirrel hide but before we begin, I must note that “preserving” a hide is different than “tanning” a hide. While Tanning leaves the hide soft and pliable, preserving it usually yields a much stiffer product. This stiffer product may not be as desirable, but with the only required chemical being table salt…many people prefer this method.

If you have a leftover hide from field dressing a previous squirrel, that will work fine but personally I like to get a better looking pelt by skinning it so that I have a much more complete and less damaged hide. Keep this in mind before skinning your squirrel, they way you clean it will determine how intact the hide will be.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Sharp knife
• Large flat working surface or a sheet of plywood
• Denatured alcohol
• Non-iodized salt

Instructions:

1. Begin by slicing along the underside of the squirrel, from the chin to the anus. You only need to get under the skin so do not stick the knife in far or you risk opening the body cavity. The goal is to remove the skin, not disembowel the squirrel.
2. Once you have exposed much of the underside meat from the skin, work the skin free slowly and gently. It’s recommended to go ahead and remove the feet so that the legs can be pulled free of the skin. Leaving the feet attached risks allowing rot to take over and ruin your hide.
3. Split the underside of the tail slowly as you work out the tail. It’s difficult to get it 100{6eed75c7f8c195edd1162272d31c56c9d78bf8d95bfa341f234a4c2acf0cac3e} removed so if you are unable, stop at a reasonable spot and snap it off.
4. If you decide you want to keep the head on your hide you’re taking on the more difficult part of the skinning process. But with a little patient, you can do it. I choose to remove the head from the body (but not severed from the hide) and save this part for last, slowly work back the skin with your knife. Next, use a staple gun, tacks, small nails, etc to hold the hide open. I recommend taking it to a piece of plywood. Try to keep it on the very edge of the hide.
5. Add a generous amount of non-iodized salt to the hide, others have stated that regular table salt (with iodine in it works fine but I have not tested it). Be sure to get around the edges and make sure there are not any folds in the skin where the salt cannot reach. Work the salt into the head and tail.As you salt, remember this: Any unsalted spot is not protected and will rot!In a day or two the salt will become saturated or crusty with the moisture it has drawn out of the flesh. Scrape away the old salt and reapply a second generous layer. Allow the second layer of salt to remain for about ten to fourteen days.
6. To finish off the process, remove the salt and scrape away anything still remaining on the skin. Apply a small layer of Neatsfoot oil or other leather conditioner to give your pet some pliability. Allow it to absorb for a few hours then add another layer.

How to preserve a squirrel tail

Every hunter (squirrel hunters included) enjoys showing off their hunting prowess. Deer hunters often have a head or antlers mounted, fishermen sometimes have a nice size fish preserved and mounted on their wall. Squirrel hunters usually don’t have their squirrels taxidermied but often enough, we like to keep the tails so in this article we will see a simple way to preserve a squirrel tail.

When keeping tails as a record of your successful hunts there really isn’t too much involved in the preservation process. With some non-iodized salt, you can start collecting your squirrel tails as well.

Instructions:

1. Start with a pair of pliers and remove the bone. You can also try slicing down the tail to remove the bone but the pliers often remove it completely, reducing the chance of it rotting.
2. Once the bone has been removed, pour a generous amount of salt on the fleshy part of the tail (the inside). This is best done as soon as the bone is removed as some of the inside skin is exposed.
3. Turn it right-side-in again and pour some additional salt into it. Let this sit (on a flat surface) for at least 24 hours.
4. After 24 hours, wipe or scrape away the old salt and reapply another generous layer. Place it on a flat surface to dry for another couple days and the tail should stay preserved for many years.

How to Tan a Squirrel Hide

Squirrel hunting can provide many squirrel hides that can be turned into durable leather or made into nice decorative pieces in just a few simple steps. We will examine how to tan a squirrel hide in a simple and effective manner.

Squirrel pelts were traditionally used as a durable leather that had many uses, such as being sewn into patterns to make coats and other articles of clothing to keep our ancestors warm. Even though you can run down to the local Walmart store and buy a coat eliminating the NEED to tan a hide, the process of tanning a hide can still be an interesting and entertaining activity, even if it’s just done for fun.

Here’s What You’ll Need:

• 5-gallon bucket
• Salt
• Dull knife
• Alum (tanning chemical, short for Aluminum) can be purchased many places, including Amazon.com. Do a quick Google search for a place that carries it near you.
• Hide from a squirrel
• Neat’s Foot Oil (purchased at any leather shop)

Instructions:

1. Prepare the pelt by scraping away as much visible meat and fleshy tissue as possible from the hairless underside of the hide. A dull knife is recommended, as it will scrape the hide without slicing through.
2. In a 5 gallon bucket, prepare a solution of salt water: 5 cups of salt to 1 gallon. Submerge the hide in the salt solution for a minimum of 24 hours. Remove and scrape away any remaining flesh and membrane that has come loose during the soaking process.
3. To prepare your tanning solution, begin with 2 lbs. of salt mixed into 4 gallons of water. You can reuse the same bucket as before. Stir it to dissolve the salt completely. In a separate container, mix 2 lbs. of alum in just enough water to dissolve and mix thoroughly. Add this to the salt mixture.
4. Place the scraped pelt into the tanning solution. Allow it to sit for 24 hours and stir it a minimum of two times during the tanning process.
5. Remove from the solution and rinse the entire pelt under clear running water. Hang the pelt outside with the fur side up, over a clothesline or railing out of direct sunlight. Let it hang for several days.
6. Rub the hide, back and forth, over a straight edge to soften the leather. A patio railings will work well for this process.
7. Work Neat’s Foot or other leather lubricants into the underside (leather) with your fingers to insure the tanned hide becomes both soft and pliable. Use a dog brush or other comb to work out any mats or tangles on the fur side of the hide.

Now you have your very own squirrel pelt. A set of them placed over the arms of your couch looks great!

Things to note:

1. The chemicals, salt and alum, are non-toxic to humans but should NOT be digested. Wear gloves and wash hands frequently. As always, you should read the product label before using any chemical.
2. This method can be used to tan almost any type of animal hide. Increase times and amounts of tanning solution for larger hides.
3. Squirrel hides can be frozen in the freezer until ready to tan if you choose to tan several at the same time.
4. Alum can usually be purchased at any pharmacy or drug store.
5. The tanned hide is NOT WATERPROOF. Exposing it to water can cause hair to fall out or the hide to stiffen. However this method is still good for preserving hides.

In the world of hunting, there is nothing more exciting than calling up a big tom turkey within shotgun range. To make it more rewarding, try making your own call and tricking one of the most cautious and leery game animals in North America. Wing-bone calls are the oldest form of calls, developed by Native Americans and possibly dating back 4,000 years.

During this off-season, why not make your own wing-bone call? They are easy to make but take some practice to be able to produce the sounds needed to fool an old tom.

The wing bones of mature male turkeys are the most desirable for wing-bone calls. Bones from different turkeys make different sounds. Bones from mature toms make a deep and raspy sound. Bones from hens make a higher and crispier sound. Bones from jakes make a sound that falls in between the toms and hens. Because calls made from different turkeys make different sounds, a savvy hunter will have one of each in his or her bag of tricks. Another benefit of the wing-bone call is it is louder and the sound travels farther than any other type of call.

To use the wing-bone call, the hunter places the free end of the radius bone in between their lips. Some hunters place the call in the front and center of their lips, while others place the call near the corner of their mouth. The call is not operated by blowing through it, like most turkey calls. Rather, it makes the yelps and clucks of a hen by a sucking motion. The hunter puckers his or her lips and “kisses” to create the suction. This takes practice, but it is easy to learn. Just like anything worth doing, you need to put in the time to master the sounds.

Step 1 The first step is to remove the wings from the turkey at the ball joint where the wing attaches to the body. The wing must be deboned to save the humerus, radius and ulna. These three bones need to be scraped clean of all the meat and cartilage that can be reached with a knife. When finished with step one, you should have three bones separated from each other and somewhat clean.

Step 2 Next, boil these three bones. Adding a few drops of dishwashing liquid will begin the degreasing process. Wait for the water to boil before dropping in the bones. Do not boil longer than 20 minutes because the longer the bones boil, the more brittle they become.

Step 3 Then, remove the bones from the boiling water after any remaining meat or cartilage has gone. Using a hacksaw or a Dremel tool, remove the ends of the two smaller bones, the radius and ulna, where the bones start to flare. On the larger bone, the humerus, sever the smaller end where it starts to flare. On the larger end of the humerus, sever the flared end at the widest point. This gives the call a bell or trumpet to amplify the sounds. Be careful while cutting the ends as not to splinter the bones.

Remove the marrow from all the bones with a pipe cleaner. The bell end of the humerus needs to be cleared of any thin bones to create a single hollow chamber. The last thing in this step is to lightly sand the cut ends to make them smooth.

Step 4 For step four, first bring some fresh water to a boil. Then, add the bones to the boiling water with a liberal amount of dishwashing liquid to degrease. Then, add a splash of hydrogen peroxide to whiten the bones. Only boil for a few minutes so the bones do not become too brittle.

Step 5 This step is the assembly of the call. You will notice that the radius has a round end and a flat end. The flat end is the mouthpiece, and the round end is inserted into the ulna. The free end of the ulna is inserted into the small end of the humerus. Some turkey hunters do not add the humerus, which makes a smaller call. The addition of the humerus allows the turkey sounds to project for a longer distance because of the trumpet or bell on the end. The ends may have to be shaved a little bit to fit inside of each other. Once you have a tight fit of the connected pieces, mix some epoxy to glue the parts together and fill any gaps to create a seal. Let the epoxy set according to the instructions.

Step 6 Step 6 is optional. Some turkey hunters decorate or add their own finishing touches to their new call. Just remember, these calls are for turkey hunting, so stay away from bright colors, shiny finishes or hanging things such as feathers or beads that can give your position away to a sharp-eyed bird. Most turkey hunters who make their own wing-bone calls wrap dark thread around the bones where they connect. If you spray it with a clear coat, make sure that it is not a glossy finish. You want a dull, flat finish.

Keep these 10 pheasant hunting tips in mind to get more pheasants in your sights.

From hot, dry weather early in the season to crowded conditions at state wildlife areas where birds are released, pheasant hunting can be a challenge. Yet veteran hunters have learned to use weather, heavy hunting pressure and wary birds to their advantage and shoot bag limits of roosters each fall.

Here are 10 tips from some of the best pheasant hunters around -hunting guides, state wildlife area managers and hunting club owners -on how to find more birds on public and private lands through the West.

1. USE A GOOD BIRD DOG

Each fall, many hunters are successful by walking through cover and flushing birds without a dog. But the most successful hunters are those with a good bird dog, be it a Lab or a pointer. Not only will a dog help you find more pheasants and other upland birds, but can also track down pheasants after they are shot.

“I’ve noticed that really good bird dogs are a huge advantage,” says Vince Oredson, a state wildlife area manager in Oregon. “I’ve seen fields get hunted over and over throughout the day. And then someone with a dog with a good nose will go in and find birds right away.”

Some hunters prefer Labs, which are excellent at flushing pheasants from heavy cover and also unmatched when it comes to tracking down birds after they are shot.

Others like a pointer, which will locate pheasants hiding in grass and brush and let their owner know exactly where they are.

“A flushing dog that can get into the heavy cattails and other cover can be an advantage in the middle of the day,” Oredson says.

“The pointer dogs work better in the shorter grass where the birds will be early in the morning.”

Burt Holzhauser owns the Rising Sun Hunting Preserve in California, one of the West’s best private-land pheasant hunting areas. He utilizes both Labs and English setters at his ranch.

“You have to have a dog,” Holzhauser says. “You lose too many birds because you knock them down and won’t be able to find them without a dog.”

Some private hunting clubs provide dogs and handlers for an additional charge.

2. LEARN TO DRIVE BIRDS

Jeremy Eubank is a very successful hunting and fishing guide from eastern Washington. He likes to drive pheasants early in the season when hot, dry weather limits success for many hunters.

Eubank’s technique works with or without dogs, although his Lab helps him bag even more birds. He will have one or more hunters take position at the top of a hill or ridge and wait. Then he pushes the birds to them by walking a slow zigzag pattern through brush and other cover.

Pheasants will often retreat uphill, running through the cover and then fly once the cover ends. That’s where the other hunter should be stationed.

Eubank cautions hunters to avoid pushing pheasants downhill. They will often take off flying before they near the hunters waiting to ambush them.

3. HUNT NEAR WATER

Oredson, the manager of Denman Wildlife Area in southern Oregon, and Holzhauser – whose Siskiyou County, Calif., ranch is rated as one of the best pheasant hunting destinations anywhere – get chances to see pheasants under all types of weather conditions. Early in the season and during dry weather patterns, pheasants will often hang out in areas with lots of water.

“They are going to be closer to the water holes,” Holzhauser says of birds in dry weather. “They are going to be in the good cover.”

Oredson agrees: “The birds will gravitate to streams and water holes during hot weather.”

Also look for birds near other water sources, aside from with streams and ponds – such as faucets, irrigation canals, livestock watering containers, pump houses and irrigation equipment.

4. PRACTICE MAKES PERFECT

Private hunting clubs are gaining popularity with hunters as places to train their dogs before hunting pheasants on public-land areas. Hunting clubs and preserves often open before the general pheasant season and are great places to give bird dogs exposure to pheasant hunting.

Break out your rain gear and waterproof boots after the first big storm of fall for some of the best opportunities of bagging a pheasant.

“I have quite a few people who start young dogs here,” Holzhauser says. “I can flag the birds or tell the hunter exactly where they are. You know your dog is on a bird and not a rabbit or something else.”

Hunting clubs also often have a variety of types of cover to expose flushing and pointing dogs to differing terrains, vegetation types and hunting situations.

“I like to mix it up,” Holzhauser says of training new dogs. “I put them through everything from grain fields to tall wheat grass to sagebrush.”

It’s also a good idea to get reacquainted with your shotgun before the season starts – instead of when your dog points to or flushes the first rooster of the season.

“Practice shooting some clay pigeons before the season,” Oredson suggests. “Go out to the gun range and make sure your gun is functioning right. Pattern your shotgun. Make sure you are shooting a good pattern.”

Just as deer hunters scout before rifle season opens, good pheasant hunters will make a trip to their favorite hunting area before upland bird season begin. Watching where the birds are without hunters around will reveal locations to keep an eye on early in the mornings and late in the afternoons. Scouting for pheasants will also reveal cover types to be aware of once hunting opens.

5. SELECT THE RIGHT SHOT

While many hunters prefer 20-gauge shotguns for pheasant hunting, some like a 16-gauge. And the ever-popular 12-gauge, also used for duck and goose hunting, will suffice.

At Holzhauser’s ranch, lead shot is allowed. “I like No. 5 lead shot,” Holzhauser says.

“Something comparable to 4 and 6s. A heavy load, because the birds are tough enough that 7 1/2 isn’t going to knock them down.”

Holzhauser has seen hunters shoot birds with 7 1/2 shot. Despite being hit, the birds will often survive the blast and live.

If using steel shot, go with a bigger size than if you were using lead. On public lands, lead shot often cannot be used. Instead, size-4 steel shot is a good choice.

“Four seems to be the most popular size shot,” Oredson says. “You have a little less range with steel. If you keep them under 50 yards, you should do fine,” he says of shot range.

6. TIME YOUR HUNTS

Just like most hunting and fishing, pheasant hunting tends to be at its best early in the morning and again in the evening.

Mornings are best because the birds are often found in grasses or other light cover, searching for food. Once hunters and dogs arrive, the birds will retreat to heavier cover until pressure eases. They will then begin searching for food again.

At private hunting clubs, however, hunting is good throughout the day, as birds are often released several minutes to a few hours before hunters begin their hunt. Hunters can tell hunting club managers what type of hunt they want, from beginner to more challenging and if they want the birds disoriented or not.

On public grounds later in the day, the birds will come out again when hunting pressure drops off.

7. FIND PHEASANT SIGNS

When hunting new areas, Holzhauser says there are several giveaways – including tracks and crowing – to indicate if there are birds in the area.

“You will see them crossing the road,” said Holzhauser. “You’ll hear the roosters crowing.”

Late in the evening, pheasants will come out and feed before bedding down. You can often see them at dusk, which is a good time to scout for pheasants.

When scouting a new pheasant hunting area, Oredson suggests you look for birds where corn is growing.

“Corn seems to be a magnet for pheasants,” Oredson says. “They like the shade, they like the green cover and they like the corn itself. Pheasants also like thick cattails. Marshy areas hold a lot of birds, but they are a little harder to hunt.”

8. BE PATIENT

Many hunters become frustrated when they don’t bag a rooster within the first half hour of hunting.

Be patient, says Oredson. “If things aren’t working, take a break, sit down, eat a sandwich.” he says.

“Things change all the time. Another hunter can push birds into our area. Don’t get too frustrated. Sometimes you have to let the birds come to you.”

If you know birds are in an area but have hunkered down, slowly work the area with your dog. Break down the entire area and methodically going through all the cover with your dog.

9. HUNT THE COLD

The first really cold spell of the year can produce some of the best pheasant hunting of the season.

“The advantage of cold, wet weather is it’s easier on the dogs, and it makes the scenting conditions better for the dogs,” Oredson says.

Break out your rain gear and waterproof boots after the first big storm of fall for some of the best opportunities of bagging a pheasant.

Pheasants can also be easy to track on muddy or snow-covered ground.

10. KNOW THE REGS

Study the hunting regulations in your state before hunting. Regulation books will often include public-land release sites for pheasants.

Some Western states hold paid pheasant hunts, where hunters can harvest roosters on public land for a fee of about $10 a bird. There also are junior or youth pheasant hunts in many states.

California, Oregon and Washington all have information about the youth and adult state wildlife area pheasant hunts on their Web sites and in their regulation books.

Hunters must also be aware of tag and recording requirements. In Oregon, for example, you can be fined for bagging a pheasant and not recording it on your tag, just like keeping a salmon without recording it on your fishing license.

Also be aware of any hunter orange requirements, load or firearm restrictions or hunter education requirements for your state.

IT ALL STARTED HERE

Although the Plains States have a reputation for top-quality pheasant hunting, pheasants were first introduced to the U.S. in the Pacific Northwest.

After ring-necked pheasants were brought in from China in 1882, Oregon’s Willamette Valley was the first place in the U.S. to sustain wild populations of the birds.

Pheasants were also introduced to the Longview, Wash., area at the same time. The newly introduced birds thrived, and their populations quickly grew into the tens of thousands.

Eastern Oregon, eastern Washington and northeastern California still have good numbers of wild pheasants, although the birds are not as plentiful as they once were because of changes in the agricultural industries.

Pheasants thrive in farming areas of each state, but also are found in state wildlife areas where they are raised and released for hunters.

There also are private hunting clubs in each state where hunters can pay for each bird they want released.

Successful hunting sessions usually require you to bear the stiff North winds or endure the thick fog while paying attention to your goose spread.

The last part plays a quintessential role during any hunting expedition, and the lack of decoy placement knowledge can result in frustrating failed hunting attempts, especially if you are a novice hunter.

To bag multiple geese, hunters must utilize their hunting ground smartly while creating a foolproof strategy.

In this article, we shall peer into five of the most acknowledged decoy spreads for a successful hunting expedition.

5 Best Goose Decoy Spread With Corresponding Diagrams

The following are five of the best goose decoy spreads with matching diagrams to quickly understand the spread’s structure.

We highly recommend trying all five at multiple expeditions while gauging the season, terrain, and topography of the hunting ground.

#1 Classic U-Shaped Decoy Spread

The U-shaped decoy spread is the most classic and loved spread across the United States. The main shape of the setup alongside the decoy resembles a beautiful U, giving it the corresponding name.

Its U shape helps funnel the geese directly into the middle of this design, which falls in front of the shooters.

You can alter the blind placement according to the weather and climatic conditions, but ideally, a center U blind position can funnel all the geese near the shooter.

Hunters can usually benefit greatly when the blinds are placed in the far front area or apex of the spread during strong winds. Similarly, you can place the blinds at the back of your spread design, giving birds ample time to lower their height from the ground.

We highly recommend this position when you go on a group hunting trip.

Always remember that the wind’s strength dictates your blind placement; stronger winds are ideal for upfront blinds, while low wind conditions are preferable for further back blinds.

Also, ensure that you are hiding all the blinds properly by packing multiple decoys around them. We recommend following a random decoy placement pattern instead of a 2-2 ft measured gap.

A little random spread gives a natural look that can fool and lure the geese easily.

#2 Cross Wind + Sideways U Decoy Spread

Understanding the bird’s instincts and habits shall help you hunt better regardless of the season or hunting location. You will also need your best-looking geese for this specific decoy spread, as it is highly focused on the birds’ instincts.

This decoy is a sideways U decoy mostly used when encountered by crosswinds. Remember that hunters need to bring all their baits for this spread and ensure they look natural to perform effectively.

Start placing most of the decoys around the blinds so the spot is relatively hidden. Content decoys can be equally effective when placed nearest to the blinds.

Also, it is known that geese prefer to land in the middle of a group, so using their habit for our benefit can help hunters lure the bird better.

To do that, you can place four to five active geese in the middle of the zone. Try to use your best-looking geese for this action, and it shall be your staple spread during late-season hunting every year.

#3 The Double V Decoy Spread

Our third decoy spread is the double V design that works exceptionally well in water setup for puddle birds. Another fascinating positive of this spread is its ability to attract multiple primary, secondary, and even oddball duck species.

However, hunters must understand how to lure these geese and other birds.

You can start setting your first V slightly upwards where the wind is supposedly blowing parallel to the river/pond bank. For your second set of V, arrange the decoys behind the first V at a safe distance.

We suggest opting for a reasonable 10-20 yards distance between the first and the second V.

To make the spread more natural and attract small flocks or singles, consider placing single decoys between the V at regular intervals.

Furthermore, to increase the chances of attracting more birds, create secondary decoy spreads near the blind, especially between the gap of both the Vs.

Hunters must remember that puddle ducks habitually land behind the V decoy shape instead of landing in front like most divers.

On the other hand, southern waterfowl hunters hunting in November usually have great success with this spread using a mix of green-winged teal and mallards. Even black ducks, gadwalls, and pintails work well in the location.

#4 X Decoy Spread

X decoy setup is one of the most exciting decoy spreads and usually requires a lot of space for proper execution. The blinds are always positioned in the center of the X as the decoy geese extend in four corners.

That positioning is excellent and highly lucrative with little to no wind.

Additionally, this spread is ideal for hunters who want the benefit of shooting from all directions based on the bird’s landing. If you like the freedom to attack from all directions, this X decoy spread will surely be your staple design for future hunts.

Geese, like other birds, enjoy the safety of multiple birds in one place, but fortunately, this decoy is designed to give hunters ample void spaces for the geese to get drawn into. So, when talking about X spread, hunters get four voids covering all directions.

Shooters can begin hunting as soon as they spot the first group coming towards the spread. You can either consider shooting them overhead or allow them to land and then reposition to shoot for the entire day.

X decoy spread requires double the number of the decoy compared to standard or regular setups. However, hunters usually prefer this spread during the late-hunting season with a strong strategy while using their best-looking baits.

Additionally, this spread allows shooters to utilize the decoys collected for the past few seasons. Lastly, try to mud the blinds and brush them to blend well; it can make a lot of difference.

#5 The Crop Circle Decoy Spread

This crop circle decoy setup works flawlessly even during variable and light winds. Harvested grain fields look attractive enough that geese and ducks tend to come down in any direction.

Furthermore, the circle spread allows the ducks to be in the front, making shooting them far easier. .

To create the most authentic crop circle decoy setup, you need to set up a small flock in a circle with an individual decoy in the center of the ring. The geese then target the inside edge of the ring or directly aim at the center decoy.

The most common and successful decoy has to be the mallards; however, even gadwalls, pintails, and other species can entice the geese.

Furthermore, if you spot Canadian geese near your hunting ground, consider setting up a tiny group of goose decoys far from your main circle spread. Those secondary decoys will surely provide a bonus opportunity when you miss out during the crop circle.

How Many Decoys Should I Bring To Hunt Geese?

It varies from one hunter to another. Some people suggest a modest number, while others will spurt an astonishing number of decoys. However, in our experience, we can tell that even a setup of 15-20 decoys shall work in your favor, provided you know what you’re doing.

Similarly, if you wish to opt for more baits, consider sketching our setups that work well with hundreds of lures. The X decoy spread is one such setup that works efficiently with hundreds of lures.

Apart from personal preference and spread selection, three main factors influence the number of your spread:

Hunting Season

As a general rule of thumb, hunters need to increase or decrease their number of decoys based on the season and its progression. That is mainly necessary because as time progresses, so does the size of the flocks due to migration.

Another remarkable observation passed on for centuries is the geese’s preference. Usually, flocks never land towards decoy flocks smaller than the birds flying above. Thus, the bigger the congregation, the more decoys should be shelled out for the display.

Early season hunting is possible with smaller decoy spreads as the flocks are notably smaller. An average of 15-20 decoys will be sufficient for early-season hunting.

Additionally, we recommend limiting your decoy to a smaller number even if you have access to a good number of baits.

A cluster of lures in the early season can look highly unnatural. For mid-season, keep a safe number of 25- 40 decoys as you shall notice geese migrating to multiple hunting spots.

The birds will start feeling the hunting pressure from the mid-season, so to make the flocks comfortable, hunters need to arrange decoys anywhere from 25 to 40. Lastly, late-season calls for the most significant number of bait spread hunters can set.

Geese are usually in complete migration with many birds in their flocks; therefore, we recommend decoys anywhere between 50-80+.

Shooters must remember that birds feel the most hunting pressure in this period, so luring them becomes relatively challenging. You may succeed with smaller decoy setups if the area is filled with solo birds flying by.

Decoy Type

The decoy type that you will operate ends up playing a significant impact on the quantity required. The most popular decoys consist of windsock, shells, full-body, and silhouette decoys.

Hunters who often hunt with full-body decoys can get away with small spreads featuring lesser baits as the full-body ones have the most outstanding visibility amongst all decoy types.

If you are hunting Canadian geese, oversized shell decoys can undoubtedly become your best friend in the fields. However, shooters opting for silhouette decoys need a significant number of decoys for their spreads.

Since these decoys are 2-Dimensional, hunters need to use a massive number of baits facing in multiple directions.

Hunters On The Field

The decoys on the hunting field are directly proportional to the number of hunters on the ground. You might even see hunters preferring to stick to their ‘1 hunter = 2 dozen decoys’ formula. That formula is a safe bet which ensures that every hunter’s blind is well covered.

With each added hunter, the ground needs a group of decoys to hide that particular blind effectively. If hunters set up an X or V spread, then almost every shooter wants to be at the tip of the V and in the middle of the X.

At such times, to mask the uneven bumps and hunter silhouettes, you need to use a lot of decoys. That allows the hunters to have fair and better shooting opportunities as the geese approach their respective decoy spread.

Effective Goose Hunting Decoy Spread Tips

• Hunters can successfully hunt even if they lack a massive collection of decoys. All they need is a foolproof strategy that works according to the season.
• Ensure to leave enough void for the geese to land perfectly. Decoys that clump too close together usually discourage geese from approaching the spreads. A six to eight feet gap between each bait provides ample space for the birds to land without feeling any suspicion. However, you must place a few decoys together to show a small family grouping. That call is entirely dependent on the type of spread you have chosen in the first place. We recommend using your best judgment with acute observations for a successful trap.
• Always use the wind speed and direction to your advantage. Geese are habitual to landing into the wind, so if the wind is supposedly blowing toward the west, these birds will land facing the west cutting the wind. Wind direction is crucial if you wish to bag multiple birds without losing sight of your prey.
• Try to observe and replicate the behavior of the geese. While scouting for hunting grounds, consider studying the birds and their habits. Check whether they are flying solo or are always in a group. Also, kindly pay attention to their eating, resting place, feeding time, etc. Use this information to sketch an ideal spread that shall work in your favor on the day of hunting.

Conclusion

With those tips, we have come to the end of our geese decoy spread article. We highly encourage novice hunters to use our recommendations and reliable spreads for successful hunting expeditions.

Even if a spread setup doesn’t work out, opt for another while keeping track of the errors. With some consistent trial and error, you shall be able to master the art of skillful spreads.

It doesn’t matter if you’re talking about 200-pound alligator gar in a Texas reservoir, a 3-foot longnose in a Minnesota river, or a 5-pound shortnose in an Arkansas slough-they’re all first-class sportfish. They’re all willing biters, too, often revealing their location during summer by rolling on the surface to gulp air. They’re also powerful fighters who will launch their muscular armor-plated body into the air when hooked. The problem with gar is their tooth-filled mouth and habit of running long distances with a bait before swallowing it. This makes them difficult to hook and land with traditional rigs. But a handful of modified rigs will catch any species of gar wherever they swim.

Hooks

Gar lack any appreciable amount of flesh in their mouth, making hookups with large single hooks difficult. Small sharp treble hooks penetrate faster and the additional hook points increase your chance of a good set. Lip hook a baitfish with a #6 to #2 treble hook on a set or float rig. Gar often grab the bait sideways and slowly swim off. Wait until the fish stops and starts to swallow the bait. When he starts to run again, set the hook firmly. Quick-strike rigs and lures with multiple treble hooks increase your chance of a hookup without risking injury caused by swallowed hooks.

Snares

Wire snares like those used to catch rabbits may be the most effective gar rig of all. Make a snare by wrapping one end of a 2-foot piece of stainless steel wire around a heavy barrel swivel. Run the free end of the wire through the back of a lively baitfish, just below the dorsal fin. Swing the free end back toward the swivel and form a loose loop that slides easily on the leader. Tie your main line to the swivel and cast the rig onto a shallow flat. When a gar grabs the bait, a firm pull will tighten the snare around its beak.

Ropes

Versatile lures and flies also can be fashioned from strands of frayed nylon rope. Cut a 3- to 6-inch piece of 3/8-inch nylon rope, and thread it onto the shank of a hook, jighead, or spinnerbait as you would a plastic worm. Use a flame to fuse the rope to the hook shank, then wrap over the melted rope with strong thread or braided line. Cover the thread wraps with a couple coats of epoxy to increase the lure’s durability. Unravel the nylon strands the the base of the head, and you’re ready to fish. When a gar strikes, the lure becomes tangled in its teeth and around its snout.

Jugs

Jugs, or pop-ups as they’re called in the south, are similar to the juglines used by catfishermen. They consist of a 4-foot section of PVC pipe or a sturdy branch tied to 2-liter soda bottle. One end of a 2-foot wire leader is attached to the branch, the other to a large study hook baited with livebait or cutbait. Fleets of jugs are drifted across shallow flats at night. When a fish begins its second run, indicating it has swallowed the bait, the angler grabs the limb and attempts to haul the fish aboard.

Ron Jolly | Originally published in GameKeepers: Farming for Wildlife Magazine. To subscribe, click here.

I remember being cold! I remember the fog on the Tensas River in northeast Louisiana hung like a thick blanket in the air. The myriad of sound coming from the hardwood forest on the river’s bank was a bit confusing to my ears. The waves lapping on the side of an old Jon boat was another distraction. My Dad sat in the stern of the boat and I sat on the middle seat with his best friend Mr. Sonny Hudnall. I remember straining my ears to hear a sound they were hearing that I could not. Their mission was for me to hear my first wild turkey gobble. Again Mr. Sonny asked, “Did you hear that?” Sure, I thought. I hear water on the side of the boat, birds in the trees, water dripping off the trees into the river. “Did I hear what?” was my answer. “It will sound like oble, oble, oble,” said Mr. Sonny.

I strained to hear the sound and finally thought I did. “Was that him?” I asked. My Dad leaned close to my ear from behind and said, “Son, that was the turkey you just heard. He has gobbled six times since we have been here. He is about a quarter-mile away. You just have to learn to separate all the sounds from the sound you want to hear. Focus on that sound and you will hear it clearly. The secret to hearing is in the listening!”

That morning was the first time I heard a wild turkey gobble. There have been many lessons learned about wild turkeys since that morning over fifty years ago, but none as important as how to listen for, and hear turkeys. Here are some tips that will help you.

Know What You Are Listening For

Learning what to listen for is the first step to hearing more turkeys. The gobble of the wild turkey is one of the most unique sounds in nature. To the experienced turkey hunter there is no other sound that can be confused with a gobble. To the novice it is a sound that can be hard to discern, especially when it is far away. Even harder to detect are the more subtle sounds made by turkeys such as drumming, yelps, and scratching in leaves. All these sounds can tell you that turkeys are near.

There are three places turkeys make sounds—when they are in the tree, when they are flying into or out of the tree, and when they are on the ground. Turkeys gobble, yelp, cackle and drum in the tree and on the ground. Turkey hens often cackle when flying up to or down from the roost. The thump of wings is another distinct sound made by turkeys. In most cases a gobble in the tree has a different sound than a gobble made on the ground. It is clearer and less muffled.

As a general rule a gobble made in a tree can be heard twice as far as one made on the ground. That same “twice-as-far” rule applies to all other turkey sounds.

Judging distance and coursing sound are other factors in turkey hunting success. Hearing a turkey sound and identifying that sound is step one.

To successfully hunt that turkey you must know the direction the sound came from and how far away it was. The first step to hearing more turkeys is to know what turkeys sound like. Experience and exposure to turkeys can teach you what to listen for. A better way is to watch other hunters. Videos and DVD’s put you in the woods with experienced hunters.

Listen to the sounds on the DVDs and learn how turkeys sound in the wild from your living room. Some companies offer videos dealing with nothing but turkey sounds and identifying what each sound is and what it means.

Isolate and Concentrate

The second step to hearing more turkeys is to isolate yourself from any distracting noise. If you are listening with a hunting partner, distance yourself from your partner. This will eliminate any distracting sounds they make or the temptation to talk. It also helps to triangulate the sound’s direction.

Choose a listening place where you can stand or sit motionless and be comfortable. I like to rest my back against a tree or sit on a log. I do not shuffle my feet in the leaves and I do not tinker with gear. I focus on hearing turkeys. You probably think I am talking only about hearing a gobble, and that is true for the most part, but eliminating any distracting noise applies when you are listening for turkey sounds in general.

Sound Advice

Two-time World Turkey Calling Champion Larry Norton is an experienced turkey hunter who has spent years guiding clients at commercial hunting operations like Bent Creek Lodge in Alabama. Norton offers some good advice on hearing more turkeys. “I guide hunters who have hunted for years and hunters who are hunting turkeys for the first time. It is our job to get each hunter on a turkey and hopefully get that hunter a shot. That all starts with hearing, coursing and getting into position on a gobbler,” says Norton.

“I like to start on high ground. From there I can hear more country. Many of my clients like to stand close or talk while we are listening for a roosted gobbler. I simply tell them in order to start the hunt we have to first hear a gobble and I can do that best when there are no distractions. Most hunters understand this and give me space.”

“At this point we are listening at day break for sounds turkeys make in the tree. We are primarily listening for a gobble but other sounds can disclose where turkeys are. If I hear hens tree yelping, cutting or plain yelping I know where a flock is located. I hope to hear a gobble, but if I do not I still assume a gobbler is near. If I do not hear a gobble at another location I will go to the hens and hope a gobbler will fire up after the flock flies down. At least I know I have put my client near turkeys,” says Norton.

“There are times when you do not hear turkeys on the roost and this is when you have to change tactics. I go to an area where turkeys frequent and slow way down. I move a few yards and stop to listen. I like to slip to near the top of a ridge where I can hear into the next hollow. I use the ridge to keep turkeys from seeing my approach. Now I am listening for sounds other than gobbles. “I listen for the distinct swish, swish, swish of turkeys scratching in leaves or for drumming. Turkeys are constantly making soft purrs, whines and yelps. This helps keep the flock together and these sounds cannot be heard from very far away. Many times if you hear these sounds and listen really closely you will hear drumming. When you hear any of these sounds set up right there. The turkeys are close!”

Cheat Norton also uses a Walker Game Ear to enhance his hearing ability. He cautions that there is a learning curve associated with mechanical hearing devices. “You have to learn to course with the Game Ear,” says Norton. “You also have to realize that sounds you hear using a mechanical device are always further away than they seem. I use the Game Ear to get in the general area of a turkey then rely on my own ears to close the deal but I know people who use them the entire hunt. It depends on you.”

My wife, Tes, suffers from hearing loss and uses mechanical hearing devices made by E.A.R., Inc. “I put them in before I leave in the morning and take them out when my hunt is over,” said Tes. “I cannot do without them. It was frustrating at first because all sounds are magnified. The sound of your steps, the birds, the wind, traffic, everything! I really had to work at getting used to them, but it was worth the effort.”

“Coursing and judging distance were also challenging, but in time it all came together. It really helped to go with someone who could hear well and compare what I thought I was hearing to what that person was hearing. After only a few outings I gained confidence in my ability to hear, course, and judge the distance to that sound. I never go hunting without them,” said Tes.

There are other ways to enhance the ability to hear more turkeys. Cup your hands behind your ears to gather more sound into your ears. You will be able to hear better in the direction you are facing but not as well in other directions. Turn your body to listen in all directions. Open your mouth while listening. This opens the ear canal and allows more sound into the ear. Slow your breathing. Take shallow breaths with your mouth open. This reduces the sound of air moving in and out of your lungs and eliminates some of the noise that competes with your ability to hear. Close your eyes. This helps you concentrate on hearing and eliminates visual distractions going on around you.

Avoid direct contact with the wind if at all possible. On windy days listen from the down-wind side of a ridge or hill. Face into the wind and allow the wind to bring sound to you. I am blessed with good hearing ability but I carry a single over-the-ear device made by Woodland Whisper that I use when I cannot hear turkeys with my own hearing. Often that device allows me to hear a gobbler that I could not hear naturally. Problem is, that turkey is usually too far away to get to. If that turkey is on the property I can hunt I will be there to listen next time.

Common Sense

Never listen near running water, traffic, or construction. Avoid any foreign noise that competes with your ability to hear turkeys. Move as far away from distracting noise as possible. Be aware of the time of day. Turkeys generally fly up to roost near sundown. Turkeys generally fly down from their roost as soon as they can see the ground. It is important to know if a turkey is on the ground or in a tree because a gobble from roost can be heard farther than a gobble on the ground.

Hearing a turkey gobble in the rain is challenging at best. If you’re confident of the path that turkeys take on your hunting property, set up a ground blind. A ground blind is an excellent way to hunt turkey in the rain. Your gear and calls can stay dry while you wait on a gobbler to respond. Turkeys, in general, are not as vocal as usual when it’s raining, so they need to be close to respond to your call. You will want to call more than normal as the rain makes it hard for hunters and gobblers to hear.

If you know where a gobbler roosts at night, set up nearby the following morning. In the west, using binoculars or spotting scopes can help you track a turkey’s movements in the evening. If you are in an area where timber prevents you from using optics to track turkey, you can use a locator call to find them. A locator call like an owl call used in the evening can get a gobble response from a roosted tom. Once you get an answer, plan your morning sit accordingly. Knowing where a gobbler is roosted will help you hear him the next morning.

Before you can expect a gobbler to respond, you have to be proficient with your turkey calls. If what you are producing is not realistic, you may not get a response. Worse, you may scare the turkey away. Work with all your calls until you are proficient with the clucks, yelps, putts and purring that a hen might make.

The Secret to Hearing is in the Listening

It is my firm belief that the key to turkey hunting success is the ability to “hear turkeys.” When you hear and identify a turkey sound you can judge where the turkey is, how far away he is and the direction he is moving. This information tells you where you need to go. Very few turkey hunts end with a turkey in your vest that did not start by first hearing turkeys. Learn how turkeys sound. Put yourself in the best position to hear and concentrate. Do this and you will hear more turkeys!

If you have ever spent time in a big sporting goods store, like Bass Pro Shops, then you surely have noticed all the incredible fish mounted on the walls. Most anglers gaze up with envy at everything from huge marlin to jumbo bass, but have you ever wondered if those shiny mounts are real fish?

So, are fish mounts made from real fish? Taxidermy mounts made from real fish usually only contain the skin, teeth, head and fins. The body portion consists of a light weight foam mold on which the skin and other fish parts are mounted. Most fish mounts are actually painted fiberglass replicas.

There are some important things to know when the opportunity to catch a trophy fish comes knocking. Read on to learn more about taxidermy options, costs, fish preparations, and other important information to keep your fish looking as beautiful as the day you caught it.

How is a fish mounted

One of these days, you could very well catch the fish of a lifetime. Pictures are great, but sometimes they just don’t do the size of a fish justice. If you want to really show off your fishing prowess to your buddies, consider making your trophy a permanent mount on the wall.

Skin mounts

Using actual fish parts for mounting is slowly becoming a thing of the past. As anglers become more aware of the importance of fishery conservation, catch and release practices make real fish mounts impractical. Even so, taxidermists still get clients insisting on live mounts.

Live fish are mounted using the skin, fins, parts of the head and sometimes the teeth. Fish are far more delicate than most animals when it comes to mounting. Proper preparation is essential to ensure a high quality result. The taxidermist will skin the fish and use a preservative on the fish parts to be saved. Once the skin and other portions of the fish are dry, they are added to a foam mold that makes up the main body of the fish.

The next steps are where the taxidermist’s artistic ability really shines. Life like poses and painting a fish to mimic true-to-life colors is no small feat. Usually only one side of the fish is painted for wall mounts. Pedestal mounts will have both sides painted. Once painted, a clear coat layer is applied to protect it for years to come.

Replica mounts

If releasing the fish back to the water is your aim, then consider a fiberglass replica instead. It may not be the real thing, but it just might look better anyway. Here are a few things to consider when deciding between taking a fish to the taxidermist or releasing it to fight another day.

The modern day fiber glass reproductions are truly life-like. They are molded from real fish so all the details are present. If the paint job is done by a skilled taxidermist, you will never be able to tell the difference between a skin mount and a replica.

Many taxidermists have access to a large number of custom sizes from fish mold suppliers. This makes matching the exact size of your fish easier than ever.

It may not be the real fish you caught but it sure is a great way to commemorate the catch. It is also a much faster time to completion. A picture of the fish at the time you caught it is key to getting an accurate recreation of the fish. A good taxidermist will work with you and your picture to recreate the memory of your fish.

Regardless of the type of mount you get, it is important to do your homework when selecting a taxidermy shop. All taxidermy requires skill and artistic abilities. Don’t trust your dollar or trophy to someone without hearing feedback from actual customers.

5 easy steps to prepare a fish for taxidermy

Okay, you decided to keep the fish and take it to a taxidermist. Now what? To make sure your mount is as pretty as can be, follow these five simple steps.

Step 1

Take a good picture as soon as possible. Fish begin losing their best colors within two minutes. Snap a picture as soon as you pull it from the water to give the taxidermist the best chance at painting the exact colors. Limit how much you handle the fish to prevent damage to the scales and do not gut the fish.

Step 2

You never know when something could go wrong. If for some reason the fish is lost or damaged before getting it to a taxidermist, taking a few measurements if possible is a good idea. First, measure the length from nose to tail. Then, take a girth measurement around the fattest portion of the body. If you have a scale, weigh it too. Now you can get an accurate replica made if need be.

Step 3

Freeze your fish as soon as possible. Choose which side is best and remember to always keep that side up. This will be the visible side of the mount. Place it good side up on a flat surface in the freezer and leave it until it is solid throughout. This takes about three days. Do not put the fish in a bag or wrap it in newspaper.

Step 4

Even though the fish is now frozen, it can still be damaged by rough handling. Some taxidermists recommend misting the fish with water to form an ice coat. Several applications of water will provide a protective jacket when transporting it to the taxidermy shop.

Step 5

Now you are ready to take it in to a taxidermist. Once the fish is frozen, it is okay to put it in a bag for easy carrying. Take it in a cooler to prevent it from thawing out. After you select a local taxidermist, I recommend contacting them to see if they have any additional instructions.

How much does it cost to mount a fish

Getting any animal or fish mounted is not going to be cheap. You are paying for the skill and artistic talent of the taxidermist. The old saying, “you get what you pay for” rings true. Even so, if it is truly a trophy of a lifetime, it will be worth every penny.

After a little research, I found that the going rate for both replica and live fish mounts is about $16 per inch of fish for one side. To give you some perspective, the average sailfish is over 9 feet long and will cost roughly $1500. A trophy bass, on the other hand, may be only 24 inches long and cost around $400. Some taxidermists offer discounted prices for longer fish species.

Obviously, if you want both sides of the fish mounted and painted for pedestal mounts, you must double the price. Also, these costs do not include plaques or other mount décor.

How do you clean a wall mounted fish

Over time dust, sunlight and smoke can impact the life of a mount. Skin mounts generally do not last as long as replica mounts because of the fragile nature of the thin skin. Either way, regular maintenance can keep your mount in tip top shape for years to come.

Dust regularly with a slightly damp, lint free cloth. Air dusters work well for loose dust and will reduce the risk of damage. Be careful around the delicate fins. Sometimes it is easier to remove the fish from the wall and lay it on a flat surface.

To make the mount last even longer, avoid hanging it where it receives direct sunlight. The damaging UV rays will fade the colors overtime, especially on skin mounts.

Fire place smoke or cigarette smoke will slowly discolor fish mounts as well. Smoke build up cannot be removed by wiping or cleaning the mount. Take it into a professional taxidermist to be stripped and refinished.

Final thoughts

Fish mount are a great way to share your adventure of a lifetime with friends and family. A fish on the wall means proof of a catch and bragging rights to go with it. Getting a skin mount from a real fish or a replica mount is a personal choice. The replica mounts available now days offer the ability to exactly match your fish’s size and look. They also last longer and in most cases look better too.

The best bow release for archery is just a click away, you just have to do your research. Luckily, we’ve done it for you. Through a variety of testing, we’ve come across and studied the best archery releases.

Here are the top 10 best bow releases for archery:

1. Spot Hogg – WiseGuy Release
2. Carter Enterprises Wise Choice Release
3. Tru-Fire Edge 4-Finger
4. TruFire Patriot Archery
5. SCOTT Release Little Goose
6. Tru-Fire Hardcore
7. TruFire Foldback Adjustable
8. Hot Shot Vapor 4-Release
9. Tru Ball Archery Fang
10. Truglo Detonator Ultra-Smooth

My Top 10 Picks Of The Best Bow Releases

1. Spot Hogg – WiseGuy Bow Release

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 2.4 ounces

Dimensions: 11.1 x 5 x 2.3 inches

Out of the different archery releases that I tried out, the Spot Hogg was definitely one of my favorites. It was lightweight, but heavy enough to have some substance to it. The design itself was more slim that I anticipated from the pictures, but this was a plus when I got to shooting. The padding on the handle itself was pleasant and it didn’t cause any chaffing.

Adjusting the strap was fairly easy, but I don’t think that it’s something that you could do on-the-go. You would have to stop for a few seconds to fix it, but that’s to be expected

To get a good idea of the efficiency of the design, I experimented with the self-reloading hook and forward trigger. I don’t really have any complaints, since it was so easy to use and relatively smooth. The open jaw was also a plus because it allowed me the fire pretty quickly.

2. Carter Enterprises Wise Choice Release

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Design: 3-Finger Release

Weight: 4.8 ounces

Dimensions: 8 x 5 x 1.5 inches

If you’re looking for something a little more elegant and sturdy, this release by Carter Enterprises may be perfect for you. The 3-finger release is simple, but fully functional. I tried shooting with it and didn’t find anything to complain about.

But while this release is perfect in many senses, I’m not sure that it’s coloring would be the best for hunting. I would have preferred camouflage or something darker that wouldn’t be so noticeable in the woods. However, with this in mind, this isn’t something that would stop me from buying. Because it really is such as lovely piece, it would do well for those that shoot with still targets.

Overall, while this product may initially seem a little pricey, this piece is definitely worth the money. As opposed to buying several inexpensive, perhaps mediocre, releases, this high-quality release would be the one that lasts.

3. Tru-Fire Edge 4-Finger Bow Release

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Design: 4-Finger Release

Weight: 4.8 ounces

Dimensions: 8.2 x 5.2 x 1.2 inches

The first thing that I immediately noticed about the Tru-Fire Edge 4-Finger release was its feel. Holding in my hand, it felt comfortable and it was much like something that I would buy myself. The body of the release felt durable and I could tell that it was well-made.

When shooting, my favorite thing about this release was that I could rotate it a full 360 degrees. While this isn’t something that I would purposely look for myself, it was definitely a plus when shooting. Something else that I noticed is that the release comes with an adjustable thumb, which made it pretty easy to shoot from both hands.

Overall, I think that this release would be good for still-target shooting, hunting, or anything in between.

4. TruFire Patriot Archery

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 0.32 ounces

Dimensions: 10.5 x 5.2 x 1.8 inches

From looking at the picture, I wasn’t immediately sold on this product, but since TruFire Patriot Archery was an Amazon best seller at such a ridiculously low price, I decided to give it a shot.

After trying it out and shooting with it for a bit, I can understand why this product sells. To be honest, it’s not the best in the world, but I can’t say that it’s a terrible product either.

The release itself does the job and I think that it’s a perfect starter for people who are just getting into archery. However, I’m not sure that it would be great for everyone and I, for sure, wouldn’t buy it for hunting. While the strap was easy to adjust, the velcro was fairly loud and would surely spook any animals.

Beyond this note, the full 360 rotation was quite nice and, like the release above, it was easy to switch between hands. Overall, I would recommend this product, but more for beginners who are not yet ready to invest a ton of money into equipment.

5. SCOTT Releases Little Goose

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 4 ounces

Dimensions: 9 x 6 x 0.5 inches

While I didn’t know what to expect, the Scott Little Goose had a few innovations that really exceeded my expectations and impressed me. The first thing that I noticed about the release was how amazingly sensitive it could be. I played around with the trigger, since it had a few different sensitivities that you could try out, and was pleasantly surprised. The soft trigger was pretty fun to use and it would probably be good for hunting.

Another innovation that I found on this product was the design of the length adjustment. In order to change the length of the release, I had to take out a little screw, slide the trigger up, and then put it back. While it was a little confusing at first, it was pretty simple once you got the hang of it.

6. Tru-Fire Hardcore Bow Release

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 6.4 ounces

Dimensions: 10.5 x 5.2 x 1.8 inches

The TruFire Hardcore release claims to have over 2 times the padding of other traditional bow releases. I’m not sure if I agree with the statement, but I will admit that it was pretty comfortable. The slightly wider and rolled edges were are a nice touch, but I wouldn’t have thought too much about it if they hadn’t mentioned it in the product description.

What interested me more about this product was its trigger, which can be adjusted from 3 ounces to more than 16 ounces. I tried it out and found it on par with the Little Goose release, despite the different design.

Shooting-wise, I tried firing with both hands and it was quite a pleasant experience, so I have no complaints.

7. TruFire Foldback Adjustable Bow Release

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 4 ounces

The TruFire Foldback Adjustable Release had a similar feel to the Little Goose. The leather was pleasant and did not slide, so it was very comfortable. In fact, it was possible for me to shoot with one hand and work with the other simultaneously. And while I didn’t do any extensive training with it, I’m sure that it would be perfect for climbing or hunting.

The release was also quite versatile with an adjustment length of about an inch, making it perfect for hands of all sizes.

Like the release above, this one also has a head that pivots either left or right buy a full 20 degrees. I found that this was effective at reducing torque. In addition, I did not have any trouble with the swept-back trigger and it was effective in not letting the string slip.

8. Hot Shot Vapor 4-Release

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Design: 4-Finger Release

Weight: 1.6 ounces

The Hot Shot Vapor 4-Release has been quite popular among the archery community. Though a few reviews have mentioned this release getting stuck or releasing prematurely, I personally didn’t have any of these problems. And luckily, from the looks of it, most people only had positive things to say about this released.

In my experience, the release was crisp and it was easy to adjust the trigger tension, trigger level, and angle. It was also very quiet, so it would probably be perfect for hunting.

9. Tru Ball Archery Fang

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Design: 3-Finger Release & 4-Finger Release

Weight: 4 ounces

The Tru Ball Archery Fang is similar to the Hot Shot and is an amazing release at a slightly higher cost. I shot with both the 3- & 4-Finger release and found the pinkie a bit weak. For this reason, I preferred the 3-Finger.

Some people in the comments have stated that it didn’t fit with larger hands, so this is something that you might want to consider when purchasing. Other than that, this was a good release, but not much different from the one above.

10. Truglo Detonator Ultra-Smooth

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Design: Full Radius Handle

Weight: 5.8 ounces

Dimensions: 12 x 7 x 2 inches

The Truglo Detonator Ultra-Smooth Release was another one of my favorites out of the releases that I tried. It was streamlined and pretty easy to use. The strap was comfortable and well-padded, so it didn’t cause any chaffing. The hook at the front also made it easy to load it up quickly.

My favorite part about this release was the stainless steel jaw, because you could tell that it was high-quality and built to last. The 360-degree rotating head was also a plus, but admittedly, I didn’t use it that much.

Why Should You Use A Bow Release For Accuracy?

Shooting without a bow release can be painful. Repeated use can hurt your fingers, so much so that they can get worn, calloused, or numb. Since the string puts a lot of pressure on your fingers, there are a lot of benefits to using a bow release.

You’ll find that with a bow release, your shots will be cleaner and more consistent. You’ll also find that it will improve your accuracy. There will be less slip-ups and as a result, you can use better arrows.

Have you ever landed a fish you’ve never caught before then sat there staring at in the net wondering how you’re supposed to lift it up for the picture, or even how to release it?

WHY IS THERE A PROPER WAY TO HOLD FISH?

Holding a fish properly isn’t just for the benefit of the fish, it also keeps the angler safe. All fish, toothless or not, have defence mechanisms built-in. Whether its a bass with an effectively sharp dorsal fin, or walleye, pike, and muskie with their teeth, all fish can pose a threat to you as the angler. But- with proper holds there is little to no concern in handling them for a photo, releasing them, or even putting them into the live well if you’re planning on keeping them.

Times have changed, and our education towards fishing as our resource has also changed. With the growing recognition of CPR (Catch, Photo, and Release) lodge owners are embracing it. Some lodges won’t even post photos of fish being held improperly, so your trophy fish may not be shared or celebrated as it should be!

The reason lodges and fishing pages don’t post improper holds in photos is that in order for CPR to be successful, fish handling has to be done properly.

Have no fear!

Learning how to hold fish is certainly better done with hands-on practice. But this article will give you the bare-bones, easy to remember approach on handling each fish species that dwell in Sunset Country’s waters! To read more about why, scroll to the bottom of the article!

UNHOOKING FISH

Once you have the fish in the net, take a breath! Having the fish in the net keeps it wet, lively and breathing, giving you time to organize yourself. Pliers are optional and certainly encouraged.

By using pliers you can keep your bare hands free of the hooks and any hazards on the fish, ie, prickly spines. Once you’ve successfully unhooked the fish, take the lure out of the net, taking the time to secure it back onto the rod will keep the workspace even safer. So long as the fishes head is underwater in the net, you can remove rushing from the picture, that’s how mistakes are made.

Once you have hooks clear of the net and away from where you’ll be posing, get the camera out before you even think about lifting the fish out of the water. This way you’re all set for a couple of photos, and a seamless release- which you can capture on camera too!

HOW TO HOLD DIFFERENT SPECIES

Not all fish were created equally which means you’ll hold some of them differently than others. Don’t let this discourage you, all holds are simple and effective.

BASS

Both bass species are one of the few you won’t get much flack for holding vertically. They are also one of the easiest to hold because they can be “lipped,” or held directly from the mouth.

Like all larger fish of each species though, some extra care is required for heavier ones and the fish certainly won’t complain about having some extra help staying healthy.

Here are a couple of hold examples for bass:

This vertical hold is perfectly safe for this bass. They aren’t cranking its jaw and forcing the head to hold the body on an angle, it’s just straight up and down. This hold is also acceptable for crappie, largemouth bass, perch and other small panfish like sunfish.

The horizontal hold below is an excellent example of how to support a larger bass, crappie, or even perch. It also adds a different angle and makes it easier to take horizontal photos, instead of only verticals!

WALLEYE

Similar to bass, you can hold smaller walleye vertically without causing any harm, but you certainly do NOT want to “lip” them as they have some impressive teeth.

Below, Jeff Gustafson explains how the gill plate hold on walleye whether horizontally or vertically helps with catch and release as well as making your photographs look better!

NORTHERN PIKE AND MUSKIE

Perhaps the most intimidating of our fish species in Sunset Country is the Esox family of northern pike and muskie. It’s important to understand how to handle pike because they are especially common in these waters and odds are you’ll be unhooking a lot of them.

All fish deserve our respect, but perhaps the species requiring the most special care is the muskie. These fish grow LARGE. Which means they are especially subject to weight-bearing in the wrong places if held improperly. They may be the apex predator in the water, but when they are removed from their environment the saying “the bigger they are the harder they fall” is very much relevant.

The gill hold is very important to understand for holding pike and muskie. Not only will it protect the fish, but it’ll also protect you and your hands. If done properly, no gloves are necessary.

Here are the steps to make it simple:

1. Following the gill line to the bottom of the pike or muskies head, slide your index finger inside and underneath the jaw of the fish (much like you watched in the walleye video above)

2. Once you know you’re tight to the bottom of the fishes mouth and away from the gills, allow the rest of your fingers to slide in as well next to your index finger

3. Keeping your thumb outside of the mouth in the notch of the bottom jaw, you’ll be able to clamp down onto your index and other fingers inside the mouth of the fish.

4. Once their head is securely in your hands, lift them out of the net and support them horizontally by securing your other hand under their belly like the photos above.

LAKE TROUT/BROOK TROUT

Depending on the trout’s size and species, gill hold may or may not be acceptable. Large lake trout can be held by the gills with their weight supported, but a hold that will give you a more secure hold on their powerful tail may be mistaken for playing air guitar.

This “guitar hold” works for brook trout as well. Using your dominant hand (seems to work best for most) wrap your hand around their tail, with your other hand support the space between their pectoral (front) fins. Tucking your hands underneath will assure your fish looks great, but will also stop you from accidentally strangling the fish. The photo above shows both options for the non-dominant hand, the angler on the left is choosing to wrap her hands around, but keeping control of them not to choke or injure the fish. The angler on the right is tucking her hands below the fish, simply supporting the weight.

DON’T FEEL CONFIDENT YET?

Like with all things learning, practice really does make perfect. You can’t be expected to learn these perfectly the first time. The holds covered above are all focused on what will give you the most confidence, but you may find other proper ways to handle fish.

If you’d like to learn more about these holds, you could consider hiring an independent fishing guide for the day. Be clear with your intent to learn more, guides will be more than willing to help educate you on fish holds, tactics, techniques and even how to land them easier!

Here’s more on why it’s important to learn: Let’s say a large fish is held vertically, that large fish has until this point lived its life suspended horizontally almost weightlessly in water. Being hoisted by its jaw or gills (which acts as lungs for the fish) puts a tremendous amount of pressure not only on those areas, but it’s internal organs that have never felt gravity quite like this before. Larger fish held vertically poses a risk to their organs tearing from place and ultimately causing a delayed death after release.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

You’ve mastered landing countless fish, now you want to go for some true trophies! In Sunset Country you can go for walleye, muskie, northern pike, smallmouth and largemouth bass, perch, crappie, lake trout and brook trout.

If you don’t know where to begin, you can search by the species listed above, or check our Accommodation Finder and use filters such as drive-in, fully guided fishing, wheelchair accessible, fly-in outposts, and more!

You can also order our FREE Travel Guide including a pull-out map of the region and our lodges here. Feel free to call us at the Sunset Country office 1-800-665-7567 as well.