Tree stand selection, placement, set-up and safety all factor into a successful hunt—and each aspect is a never-ending topic of discussion. Everyone has their own opinions on placement, hanging tactics, concealment and even the tree stand itself. While tree stand hunting is a personal decision, there are a few basic principles that can increase a hunter’s odds of seeing deer, having a good shot and make the entire process far more comfortable—and safe.

Portable tree stands come in three main categories, each suited to different uses and hunter preferences. Hang-on stands, the most basic, are simple stands that must be manually moved into place and secured carefully. Just like the name suggests, self-climbing stands allow a hunter to “walk” the stand up a tree and are best-suited to smooth trees with no branches between the hunter and the ground. Ladder stands look like a combined ladder and tree stand, and can be used on a wide range of trees but are often more conspicuous. Of the three options, hang-on stands are the most commonly used.

We covered tree stand placement thoroughly in our recent post How to Hunt Whitetail Deer Using the onX Hunt App, including sitting food, water, cover and seclusion. We also showed how best to enter and exit your stand without disturbing nearby deer and ruining that shot you’ve been waiting for all season. During the summer months, consider clearing multiple trails into your stand so you can walk in based upon deer feeding habits, wind direction and time of day, and mark these trails on the onX Hunt App.

onX Ambassador Steve Tittsworth knows that in his home state of Tennessee, tree stand placement is the most important part of the hunting puzzle. “Over the course of many years, our deer have learned to look up,” Tittsworth shares. “Once I have determined where I need my stand relative to the deer I’m hunting, I look for cover while looking up myself. Be it 30 feet high or only eight feet high, if that perfect tree is a white oak, hickory or hemlock, I’m looking up for the spot that a deer can’t see. Many times I’ve put a set at only eight feet off the ground in a leafed limb cluster and watched deer look right over top of me. I also set these up so I’m completely covered while the deer is directly under me and my opening comes as the deer is passing me. This ensures he’s looking away and the shot is never quartering to me. Higher is not always the best answer.”

onX Community Engagement Specialist Jared Larsen spent his fair share of time in tree stands while growing up hunting both Wisconsin and Iowa. And after years of hunting out of tree stands, he’s finessed his stand maintenance and set-up for maximum safety and comfort. He recommends:

• Oiling moving / connecting parts in the off-season to eliminate creaking in the cold.

• Adding felt tape between metal parts that touch and move (i.e a metal seat that you can fold up when you stand and fold down to sit—where it folds down, tape with felt to eliminate the metal-to-metal contact).

• If you have large feet, invest in a stand with an oversized platform (small platforms are a common issue with ladder stands).

• If you choose to leave your stand up year-round, remove your foam seating pads; otherwise the foam becomes a favored food for mice and squirrels.

• A screw-in bow holder for warmer hands and far more comfortable sits.

Once ensconced in your tree stand, ensure that you place your gear in easy-to-access locations. The last thing you want to be doing when the time comes is scrabbling for binos or rangefinders—a bit of advance planning can keep things calm, cool and collected and ensure you’re not spooking that mature buck that’s finally decided to make an appearance.

Tree stand security is a significant problem in some regions. Consider placing your tree stand away from heavily-used trails in locations where it’s harder to spot (then add a Waypoint in your onX App so you can find it easily, and share with friends if needed). Secure your stand with a highly-visible lock (a log chain or cable lock works well)—often a would-be thief will be deterred simply by seeing a lock. You can also remove the bottom of the ladder, tree steps or climbing sticks, making the tree stand not readily accessible.

Aaron Warbritton, host of the Hunting Public and onX Ambassador, has a few tricks of his own for tree stand hunting in the Midwest. “I use a lineman’s rope to hang the stand. It allows me to safely lean away from the tree and use both hands to set the stand up, making for a much quicker and safer setup,” he shares.

He adds: “Before I leave the ground, I’ll also tie one end of a 30-foot rope to my waist. The other end I tie to my gear (bow, pack, etc.) so I can pull it all up once in the stand. I also use milkweed pods as wind checkers. The seeds float for a long distance so you can watch wind currents away from your stand, unlike powder which only tells you wind direction at your exact location.”

Tom Petry, onX Ambassador and co-owner of Become 1 TV, believes the details truly set apart serious tree stand hunters. He shared a few of his tips with us:

• When transporting stands to and from your location, be sure to keep all straps, chains, etc. secured to the stand. The sound of metal clanging on metal travels a long way and can spook your game before you get a look at it.

• Once hung, be sure to secure all straps, pull-up ropes and loose pieces so they aren’t blowing in the wind. Dangling straps increase your chance of being seen or heard even when you aren’t in the stand. Spook a mature buck once—even when you aren’t there—and they may change their route instantly.

• Always have at least two stand sets for your major hunting areas, and set up accordingly for your two most typical wind directions.

• Be sure that your access to and from the stand is well thought out. From noise to exposure, how stealthy is your approach?

• Choose a location that will provide a good backdrop, especially if it’s a location that you will hunt throughout the year.

• Always check ratchet straps before hanging a stand. If there is ever a doubt as to the integrity of a strap, throw it out and go buy a new one… it will be much cheaper than the hospital bills.

• Never think you are too cool for lifelines and safety harnesses. They will never be as uncomfortable as the result of falling out.

And don’t forget the creature comforts. If the weather is cold, bring along more layers than you think you’ll need—nothing saps body heat like sitting still in an exposed environment. Layer up, keep your head covered to save body heat and never underestimate the chilling power of a persistent breeze during a cool morning. (Or the hot, beating sun in the afternoon.) Even if it’s pleasant in town, weather in the woods tends to have a mind of its own.

Anyone who has spent time in a tree stand will tell you to bring snacks and entertainment. Snacks, hot coffee and something to burn the hours will go a long way once you’re settled in your tree stand and waiting for the deer to arrive to the area. Make sure wrappers are not crinkly and loud—if it sounds loud in your house, it’s going to sound even louder in the woods. Repackage food into quieter containers if necessary.

Basic tree stand safety—wearing a harness at all times, having a lifeline system on each stand, conducting regular maintenance and hanging your treestand at the appropriate height—all factors into your success in the field. Practice your movements of getting in and out of the tree stand and know your personal limits. With a bit of advance research and good, old-fashioned hard work, you can have your most productive hunting season to date.

header image: Dave Fields

www.remiwarren.com

In our opinion there are few things as inspiring as the stories of those willing to take the path less traveled. The history books are full of examples of explorers, prospectors, pioneers, and mountain men that chose to lead a different life. But in a modern world increasingly living a digital reality, and many of us neck deep in the rat race, these stories are becoming less and less common. The outdoors industry, by nature, attracts a relatively high proportion of men and women that have charted a less than common course through life. One that doesn’t necessarily follow today’s conventional definition of “normal”. But then there are those that take this to a whole new level, that somehow manage to keep one foot in the digital age, while truly blazing trails across a variety of mediums with an incurable desire to push their limits and question what’s possible. They may use modern technology to tell their stories in print, film or online but their spirit is as “pioneering” as that of the first human’s to cross the Bering Land Bridge. These outliers live on the fringes of their industries, unwilling to accept the status quo, and coast through their day to day lives.

Remi Warren is without question one of these outliers. From guiding and outfitting hunters in the mountains of the West to print, photography, TV and film projects, Remi has amassed a resume that most people would dream of. All before the age of 30.

Well known for his role in the award winning Solo Hunter TV show, his latest project Apex Predator, is not to be missed. One part Animal Planet, one part hunting show and one part human performance experiment it is without question one of the most unique concepts to hit ANY media scene in recent memory. We caught up with Remi in one of his rare down times between hunts and his various projects, so read on for one of the more inspiring interviews we’ve published to date. We cover everything from filming, to New Zealand, and hunting like a wolf so this installment of Blazing Trail is about as eclectic as it gets. Enjoy! Remi, you’ve had and continue to have a diversified career in hunting and outdoors media: guide, outfitter, writer, TV personality and now producer of your own show Apex Predator. How did it all start?

I really just started out guiding. Outdoor, TV and all this stuff was something that I always wanted to do and my thought starting out was I’d get into it by guiding. After high school I went up to Montana where I’d grown up hunting with my grandpa and took the Spring and Summer semesters off in college. So I had about six months to guide and work and I really had no plan; I just packed up my truck and headed to Montana. I figured if I had no other choice but to figure it out, I’d figure it out. I was there hunting a lot and didn’t have a job and kind of living in a tent, and because I was hunting so much, I ran into a guide who was working in the same area.

I was actually stalking a deer and these guys kind of messed up my stalk so I talked with them for a little bit and the next day I was on this group of elk in a completely different area and some guys came up behind me but I was way in front of them, so I’d kind of “claimed” the herd in terms of hunting etiquette. They said hey, didn’t we see you yesterday? I said yeah. And then they said wait, were you here two days ago? I again said yeah. So three days in a row I was in the same place as these guys and the guide asks if I was interested in talking to the outfitter about working for them. So I agreed to talk to the outfitter and the outfitter says hey instead of working against me, do you want to work for me? And that’s how I got started guiding!

That sure worked out in your favour!

Yeah, exactly. But when you’re out there, when you give yourself no other option and trust that you’re going to figure it out things will work out, that’s my philosophy. On the writing side of things, I’ve always enjoyed writing so I honestly just started writing. I worked for a small publication in Montana for a while called Real Hunting. It’s no longer around but I got hooked up with them, by again running into the owner out in the hills. I was guiding and I used to keep this photo album, both of the stuff I’d shot and scenery and client photos as well, in my truck for when I pick up clients to give them something to thumb through and get excited about.

So I was just talking to this guy and he asked me some questions and so I showed him this photo album and he was impressed with the photos. I mentioned that I did some writing and that was pretty much it. I started working with them but quickly kind of ended up being the main editor and did essentially everything for the magazine from graphic design to laying out stories to writing about half the content. That probably gave me years worth of magazine experience in a pretty short period of time. It was a lot of hard work and not a lot of pay but it was worth it because I was building a resume and by that point, I was 22 years old and had a repertoire of running a magazine and hundreds of articles and stuff that nobody else my age had. I really just dove headfirst into the industry, but my philosophy is just work hard and don’t ask for anything and that’s worked so far.

A lot of people ask what’s the easiest way to have a hunting TV show and I used to absolutely hate that question because I don’t know the easiest way. I did it my way and my way wasn’t easy! The easy way usually doesn’t get you where you’re going or where you’re wanting to go. Unfortunately, I think a lot of people see all the shows and see how affordable filming equipment is and think it is easy but it’s obviously not. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t just dive in and bank on the fact that you’ll adapt and figure it out if that’s what you really want to do.

Yeah. Exactly. I think that’s my big thing, if you commit to doing it, you’re going to do it. It’s not that hard but it’s really hard for people to commit to something that’s scary or unknown. Nobody is going to give you anything, you’ve just got to realize that and go and work hard. Don’t ask for anything and prove that you can do it and people will start giving you what you need. For me, that’s how it worked out. It involves a lot of work for not much initially but for me, I didn’t care. I was doing what I loved. And that’s why I was a guide and then outfitter so I could make my own living and not have to rely on something else working out.

So from running that publication or doing the bulk of the work for that publication, when did you actually make the jump into your other projects? Obviously you now have the outfitting business and then on the writing side you write for Western Elk Hunter and more recently you branched into Solo Hunter and now Apex Predator. We’d probably need the entire interview to tell the story behind all of that, but what’s the brief timeline?

I was just finishing up college and it ended up that the guy who bought the outfitting business from my grandpa back in 1980 called me up as he knew that I was looking to stop guiding for another outfitter, that I wanted to go out on my own. I was planning on actually trying to buy out the guy that I worked for but one of the other outfitters in the area called me up and said I’ll sell you my business for what I bought it for in 1980. That sounded pretty good so it ended up that in the year I graduated college I bought the outfitting business and getting my own Forest Service permit, etc. for the area. I was about 22 at the time and so I’d been guiding, now had my own outfit and then at the same time, I was really working hard on the magazine in the off season. The magazine was pretty much what I did for the bulk of the off season and then in the Fall I guided. So this all led into just buying some cameras and I honestly just started filming my hunts. I’ve actually filmed my hunts since I was probably 15 years old, so I filmed my own hunts, I filmed clients’ hunts and I filmed pretty much everything I could, I just loved filming things. I just filmed and filmed and filmed for years. I wasn’t even sure I was ever going to do anything with the footage but I saw it more as practice. One day I wanted to have a TV show so, in my mind, I was just practising for that day. I couldn’t even tell you how many hours of footage I had but it was a lot!

Then one day, I saw something online, I don’t even know where it was, probably on YouTube, called Solo Hunters. By this point I rarely if ever watched TV so it was the first I’d heard of it and I thought it was a really cool show concept. So I called them up and told them I had a lot of footage and listed off some of the better hunts and footage that I’d taken. The guy that owned and ran the show ended up living not very far from where I live. We were about four miles apart!

I assume you mean Tim Burnett?

Yep. So he suggested that we meet up and he asked if I really had all the footage I said I did. I told him of course I did so he asked me to bring it to his office one day and when I did he was like holy smokes! He was looking for some additional content at the time and I was literally thrown into the show. But I’d filmed for no other purpose other than the practice film. I wasn’t trying to make an “audition” tape or anything like that. Obviously the footage wasn’t as good as when I now go out with the intent of filming for Solo Hunters, I was just filming for YouTube clips really. But we used it for the show and I kept filming and kept pushing myself to make it better and better and over time, it kind of morphed into the Solo Hunter episodes that you see today.

Ok, let’s jump into your most recent project: Apex Predator. For the record, what an awesome show, really such a cool concept. For our readers that haven’t seen it the wolf pack episode is literally must watch TV for the outdoorsman or woman.

Thank you very much. It’s a tactic that my brother and I wondered about for a while now. And as you saw in that episode, it definitely works. It’s not for everyone obviously but goes to show that humans are pretty crazy hunters in their own respects. The human body is capable of a lot more than we give it credit for most of the time. We just don’t realize it when we’re stuck in our own little worlds. But when you go out there and try something a little bit different, something that maybe isn’t mainstream or something people think about as a valid technique and it turns out to be successful that’s pretty cool. Especially when it’s modelled after a highly adapted and successful predator that we as humans assume we can’t compete with. If you look at some of the anthropological data that’s emerged from the barefoot running movement in the past few years, the prevailing theory is that’s how we initially hunted, by running animals down, literally to the point of exhaustion. Combined with our brains, our physical attributes make for a pretty lethal combo.

Yeah, exactly. That’s the thing too. We can run a lot smarter. Elk can run fast but we can run smart. So in that particular episode it worked because the elk ran down below the road for a few miles before cutting back uphill to use their planned escape route. We instead ran up to the road and used the road to cut across and headed them off, we ran a fraction of what it did and exerted half the energy by just thinking a little bit.

So what was the inspiration behind Apex Predator?

The show is inspired by nature and my fascination with the natural world, plain and simple. I was out hunting in an area where I hunt all the time and I was walking up the ridge and noticed some wolf tracks. It’s a certain route that I follow and have figured out over the years that it was the best way to approach this one great elk spot due to how the wind typically behaved, the terrain, the cover, and everything else. So I noticed on this one particular day in the snow, that there are wolf tracks and the wolf tracks are following the exact same route that I am, literally to the tee and it’s not the most natural or easy route. It’s not like following a corridor, it’s following a ridge at then at one point it ducks off the ridge and goes into this thicket of trees and then it comes back up and then drops back down into this other valley and it comes back up to this other meadow. So I stop and I think about it and that wolf knows exactly what I know. It’s amazing! We were both hunting these elk the exact same way!

And I think a lot of us wonder am I hunting this animal right? So when you’re out there and have this sort of scenario, here is an animal that hunts day in, day out and they do they’re doing the exact same thing that I’m doing? I must be doing something right! It knows what I know and vice versa and that was a pretty cool experience. In another instance, actually the first time I saw a live wolf, I was out elk hunting with my bow and I this wolf pops up right in front of me, and this is before we ever really saw them in our area, so I was pretty excited about it. It was only about 40 – 50 yards away so I got my camera out and filmed it a little bit and then got back to hunting. I was hunting this pretty big elk and drew up back around the ridge I knew they were on and started to put a stalk in on this herd of elk. But before I get close – I’m about one ridge away – the wolf runs up from the bottom at the side and starts chasing them. At this point I figure well, my stalk’s already over, so I might as well try to cut them off as I had a feeling I knew where they were going.

With the wolf chasing them the elk headed up and I knew the better route so I started sprinting up the hill. I could see them most of the way. Their tongues were hanging out. It was a hot day. I was drinking water out of my hydration bladder as I was running and they were just beat and I ran right up and stood behind a big ponderosa tree and these elk were walking by pretty much close enough to touch. I snapped a few pictures with my camera and the bulls never came out. A couple of smaller bulls did but the bigger bulls didn’t and my assumption was that their antlers were so heavy that they had to turn and cut away from the herd before the younger bulls and cows did which I later saw (the bulls) down the ridge.

But it was eye opening! It showed that it’s actually possible to keep up with elk in steep terrain. I’d always heard growing up, “well if an elk runs away, they’ll go for ten miles.” And that’s just not necessarily true. But those things you grow up with are in your head and I was just like, wow. From that moment everything I’d ever known about hunting was in question. I decided I just needed to experience it for myself and find out what is true and what’s not. That was a real eye-opener. I looked at it as, that’s how the wolf would hunt and for us to be able to do that same thing, that’s pretty crazy. I thought what other animal could we emulate or learn from? So those ideas had been in my mind for a long time and I thought about the show for a really long time and thought about the other animals out there that we as humans might have similarities to or are so specialized in one task or skill that we could learn from? Or maybe we can’t do it all but it’s something that we need to learn and so that’s where Apex Predator came from. Awesome! That was going to be one of my questions: how did you go about picking the various species that you ended up deciding on for each episode. It’s such an interesting mix and a truly unique concept. Even if someone isn’t that into hunting, there is some very cool stuff in the series. For instance, the free diving training you went through was incredible. To be able to learn to hold your breath that long is impressive and most people would say there is no feasible way the human body can do that. But as you found out, that’s just not true.

Yeah. Exactly. I think almost everyone can do exactly what I did. One of the things I wanted to do with the show was show others that we can do a lot more than we think. I’m not necessarily anyone special. I’m in good shape and I have certain genetic capabilities and qualities and accumulate a lot of training time because I’ve spent so much time in the field, I’d say the better part of my adult life. So I have a few things stacked in my favour but when it comes to stuff like holding the breath, I have no experience and any single person out there can do exactly what I did in that episode.

All of our bodies are designed naturally to handle much longer under water than we think. It’s just whether you can get past the mental threshold or barrier. So I think that’s one of those things I would have never understood. I would have heard about it and probably thought it was cool but until I tried it I wouldn’t have really understood it. I learn through experience. I’m not stubborn but I don’t necessarily take things entirely at face value. I try to take good advice when it’s given but I also need to learn things on my own sometimes and this is one of those things. For me it’s always been better to learn through experience and I think by showing the experience through the show, people will get a better appreciation for what is in fact possible and gain a better understanding of the concepts. I love to learn new things and so any time I can learn something new myself or share some kind of learning, I think that’s pretty awesome.

That is the power of video. Our publication obviously is written content only and for the most part, long form written content which has been well received but ultimately, when people SEE it, like you said, it’s a whole other game. It’s one of the most unique “hunting” shows – it’s a biological case study.

Exactly! A human biology case study through the lens of our abilities as hunters. To me that is the human story and a lot of people don’t grasp that. To hunters that’s not necessarily news. I think a lot of hunters probably don’t have as deep of an appreciation for that aspect of hunting but, in particular, the non hunters or of course the anti-hunters don’t see it as a natural human activity which of course is the farthest thing from the truth.

Yeah, and that’s another reason I wanted to do it. It opens it up to a broader spectrum of people and it’s not that I’m trying to cater to people who don’t hunt, but I’m just showing people who don’t hunt and people who do hunt that we’re not that much different from many of the animals out there. To be honest, I learned a lot from the animals we covered in the show and I use techniques that we (humans) learned from animals a long time ago, every day. Whether you’re sitting in a tree stand hunting deer or crouching in a ground blind, these are tactics adopted from animals.

Or in the buffalo episode, where we looked at the Plains Indians and how they figured out the relationship between the wolves and the bison. With humans, if the bison run they’re safe, as at that time our weapons were pretty primitive and we needed to get close. But with the wolves, they kill by chasing. A wolf would not attack a standing bison because they just aren’t strong enough. So they need to get them to panic and run and then they can catch them. So the bison wouldn’t run where possible when wolves approached but would when a bipedal human did. So the Plains Indians developed a technique, later made famous in a classic Western painting, where they would wear wolf skins and crawl within shooting distance of the bison herd. And again, as we show in the episode, it’s a tactic that works.

It just speaks to the power of the adaptive human mind and body. I think that’s one of the things you covered really well in Apex Predator, the mental aspects of it. The ability to do it physically still boils down to the mental aptitude and willingness to just go out and try it.

Absolutely, you have to be willing to try new things and fail sometimes if you want to learn. You seem to have a definite affinity for the wolf and I couldn’t agree more, for me the wolf is one of the most fascinating animals on the planet. But the wolf issue is very different in Canada than it is in the US given the history of their near eradication and then the ill-planned re-introduction. What is your take on the wolf situation in the West? You guide and outfit in Montana and there are many people that call the West home who believe that the whole “smoke a pack a day” approach is the most appropriate response. I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that you don’t agree with that?

As hunters, we get all up in tiffs about the anti hunters and non hunters being so emotional but then on the wolf issue the same emotional reaction is happening with hunters as well. When we go that route, we lose all of our bargaining power, all of our credibility. We really lose everything that we stand for and that really bugs me because if we’re going to stick to a model (the North American Wildlife Model), then we need to stick to that model.

Sometimes that model doesn’t necessarily go with what we personally and emotionally feel. But if we start managing animals based on emotions and not science, then what are we doing? We’re no different than everybody that’s against hunting because the only argument they have is an emotional one. We can’t “cherry pick” our stance and handle things emotionally for one situation and then when it’s in our favour, fall back on the science and conservation based approach and say this is what we stand for. I think we stay a lot more credible if we just pick our management strategy and go with it. So I think the predators need to be managed, and I think the non-predators need to be managed but we need to stay aligned with the model we know is the right model and not get caught up in these emotional arguments. It really hurts our cause.

I couldn’t agree more. Eradication is no different than outright protection. Those are logically identical mindsets and emotionally identical mindsets, and as hunters our number one counterpoint to the anti-hunting groups is the scientific, rational, unemotional benefits of hunting, which we know to be irrefutable. There is no debate on the balance of science and logic, we win. We win every time. But when we get drawn into these emotional battles, as you said, it ruins our credibility.

Yeah, exactly. When did you start outfitting in New Zealand?

I started going over there… I don’t even know now… about five years ago probably.

So, being a guy who has outfitted in New Zealand now for a number of years, for somebody who is looking at New Zealand as maybe their first international hunt because it is quite a popular spot it seems these days, do you think DIY is a realistic way to go for your first hunt, or do you think that’s biting off a little more than they can chew?

It’s definitely biting off more than they can chew and that’s just my honest opinion. But it does depend where you’re from and what your experience is. I’m just going to be blunt about it. If all you’ve ever hunted is deer from a tree stand, you’re not ready. You won’t handle it and you’ll probably die. It’s serious stuff in NZ.

Let’s say we’re talking about a Rocky Mountain US or an Alberta, BC, or Alaska resident who’s hunted sheep, goats or high country elk and mule deer?

I think that if you have a lot of mountain goat and sheep hunting experience, you’ll be fine. I know a lot of guys who have a lot of experience but it’s a lot harder to hunt than anywhere else I’ve ever hunted, physically, and I think the problem is there are shortcuts with the helicopters. So you see all these people, say on TV or in magazines, who probably shouldn’t be in those kinds of mountains shooting animals and you assume that it’s easy. And the assumption that it’s easy is what gets people in trouble.

I think if you have experience you’d be fine but if you don’t have that true mountain hunting experience, on a level of skill from one to ten, NZ is a ten! It depends where you go too. I hunt areas that are really hard to hunt and it’s where I like to hunt but it’s dangerous and it’s hard but those are the areas that I like. The mountains are steep and they’re big and sometimes the weather can be pretty bad with floods and even simple access is tough. If you don’t have experience it’s not for you – you probably shouldn’t try it on your own – but if you’ve been hunting a lot and if you’re smart and you realize that it is going to be difficult and you come prepared, then it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s really on an individual basis so I can’t really say one way or the other but I will say if you don’t have any true mountain hunting experience, it’s probably not a place to start off with or, it wouldn’t be something that I’d go out and do by myself. Great input. Let’s move on to some filming questions. There a lot of people these days really into self-filming and documenting their hunts and adventures, whether it’s with a GoPro or other products, but it’s not as easy as it looks. What are some tips, say three to five tips for people that want to go out and film their hunt and get more experience with that side of things?

The most important thing is get a camera you’re not afraid of thrashing. Everybody always asks about the most expensive camera. My feeling is, only get a camera that you’re comfortable having out 100% of the time. If it’s in your pack, you aren’t going to use it. I’ve gone through that – it needs to be accessible. Some people worry it’s an expensive camera and just keep it in their pack. That’s the worst place. If you have a camera and you keep it in your pack, you might as well leave it at home. So have your camera at ready, that’s number one. The most important thing is you can’t share anything you don’t film. Don’t forget to hit the record button, I’ve done that I don’t know how many times. Just be familiar with your gear because a lot of times, things happen in the moment. Something will always go wrong at crunch time like a battery dying. If you’re really familiar with your camera and use it all the time, you’ll know all the settings, every function. People just grab them and flip them open and know how to record and that’s it but things can go wrong. You should know how to quickly fix things not necessarily mechanically but operationally. Those are pretty much the main tips. Oh, and always bring extra batteries!

I think the ‘be familiar’ tip is really good one because. I’ve only taken my GoPro on a couple of hunts and you’re spot on, number one it was in my pack and I didn’t bother using it 90% of the time but then when I did take it out I wasn’t familiar enough with its functions to capture all the things I wanted to capture!

Exactly. A good way to look at it is take the camera out on as many non-hunting outings as possible. I would just go out and every time I shot my bow, I’d film because setting up a camera with a tripod fast, especially with bow hunting, is the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life. So I’d practice the camera part (setting it up, getting it ready) outside of hunting situations.

I used to shoot a lot of big mule deer and since I started self-filming, I’ve shot maybe one or two big mule deer because it’s just that hard. I actually didn’t really rifle hunt very much until I started doing Solo Hunters because the challenge is now the filming. When you’re crawling in close and it’s difficult to do so the more you practise with it in a controlled environment you’ll learn the easy things that make it even easier.

Of course, makes sense. Every hunt you go on, film your friends. I’ll bet if I put all my videos that I had just on one timeline and let it play, it would probably play for a year straight without stopping.

Wow! That’s a lot of film.

I’ve had that much time behind the camera and just over the years, it’s just filming, filming and filming. Maybe not that much, that’s probably an exaggeration but I don’t even know how much footage I have or had or erased. Quite a bit but it feels like I’ve got so much footage I could never even comb through it all.

Exaggeration or not, the bottom line is the point you’re making is you have practised a lot. Non-stop, every chance you get. If that’s something you actually want to go after then get out there and practise.

Yep, exactly. Even on my off days, I’ll go film… I’ll just film some random thing. I’m on the road all the time but I meet up with a friend who is a photographer and we’ll go out and take pictures or videos of even non-hunting stuff. Just film whatever. Practise wherever you can.

I think that brings up a good point too. Hunting seasons are only so long and if you only film when you’re hunting then you’ll be figuring out the filming half the time if not 75-80% of the time as opposed to getting good footage or at least getting the practice in whether it’s fishing or hiking or trail running or climbing. Just get out there and do it.

The other thing too with filming is, the way I am, you have to have a goal. If your goal is to film a hunt, then that’s your goal. You pass up opportunities that are not going to be filmed. It has to be your number one priority, and it’s very hard for people to do that and so that’s another reason it’s so hard to capture great footage. They want to get into filming but then a big buck walks out and they shoot it. If you really want to get into filming, then that is your most important goal and that’s really hard to commit to but once you commit to it, then you get things on film. Great insight, OK last few questions. For someone going on their first international hunt, what would you say is the best bang for their buck? What’s the best mountain hunt out there outside of North America?

Definitely New Zealand. It’s just accessible and there is a lot of opportunity. If you’re English speaking it makes it nice. Compared to other places in the world, it doesn’t have the cultural troubles or political troubles. It’s got wild species, wild places. It’s a pretty cool place.

You’ve got a lot of good footage from there so it seems like a hell of a place to go and hunt if you’re into that style of hunting.

As always, let’s finish with some rapid fire questions. You’ve been to a lot of places – so you can answer this question in one of two ways – what’s your bucket list hunt or what’s one you have done and you would give anything to do again?

I want to hunt Stone sheep in BC and I want to hunt ibex in one of the “stans”.

What’s the toughest or most satisfying hunt you’ve been on?

The most satisfying for me is big mule deer with a bow. The challenge is a big part of it and for me it’s just one of those animals that I really get into. I think it’s pretty challenging to get a really big, high country mule deer with a bow. So that’s one of them for me for sure, and then I’d probably say tahr in New Zealand. I’ve got a lot of respect for those animals and that hunt. I like the country you find them in and it’s a truly fun hunt.

You’re known for being willing to eat just about anything. What’s the gnarliest game animal or species you’ve ever gone out on a limb and tried?

I’ve got to think about that. There is something and I always forget what it is. I was thinking about it the other day, I had something that was really bad. It wasn’t the coyote you ate on Meateater with Steven Rinella was it?

The coyote wasn’t bad while we were eating it but it’s not necessarily something I want to keep eating all the time. McDonald’s is probably the worst thing I’ve eaten in a long time. There is actually a lot of times that I’ve been on the road and pulled off and got something at a rest stop and thought, I would rather eat coyote.

The pink slime, Slim Jim type of stuff?

Yeah. Those processed, mystery meat products are just disgusting, I would definitely rather eat coyote than a lot of that stuff.

And last one, as a longstanding writer, what are some key book recommendations? These don’t have to be ‘how to’ books, they can just be really good historical accounts but what are some really good books that you have loved, or gifted that’s from the hunting or outdoor-adventure realm?

One of my all-time favourites is Peter Capstick’s Death in the Long Grass. I’ve probably read that book about a hundred times. I did it for every book report in school growing up. I’ve read all of his books and that made me want to go to Africa so when I turned 18, that’s what I did, I went to Africa. I just really like those kind of stories. When I was growing up, I read Cameron Hanes’ bowhunting books and was really into those as well. I really enjoyed his books and they really helped me formulate my plans for the kind of hunting I was into. I basically read his Bowhunting Trophy Blacktail book and was like, “I’m going black tail hunting!” He put some really great stuff in all his books. Those would be my top recommendations.

From the Editors:

Apex Predator is one of the most unique “hunting” shows to hit the air in a long time. Remi’s insatiable curiosity, and obvious respect for the animals he’s studying is rivaled only by his willingness to dive in and get dirty in his attempt to learn from and mimic some of the world’s top predators. If you have even a passing interest in animal biology and human potential, it is literally must watch TV.

To learn more about Remi and his various projects or to download episodes of Apex Predator go to either www.remiwarren.com or www.apexpredator.tv for episode listings and more info.

Air rifles are becoming increasingly popular as a method for hunting small game animals.

They offer a relatively quiet and efficient way of hunting, making them appealing to both experienced hunters and newcomers.

With a variety of calibers and powerplants to choose from, air rifles can be customized to suit the type of game one intends to target.

This versatility ensures that air rifle hunting can be a satisfying pastime for individuals with varying interests and skill levels.

For those looking to hunt small game such as squirrels, rabbits, and birds, an air rifle is an ideal tool for the job.

Equipped with the right ammunition, one can achieve a humane and precise kill that relies on accuracy rather than brute force.

Smaller calibers such as .177 are typically used for hunting birds, while larger calibers like .22 are well-suited for furry animals like rabbits and squirrels.

When considering which air rifle to use for hunting, it is important to research the specific hunting laws in one’s state, as they can vary significantly.

Some states may allow the use of air rifles for hunting larger game, while others may have specific guidelines regarding the type of animals that may be hunted with air-powered firearms.

By understanding these regulations, hunters can ensure that their air rifle hunting activities are both safe and legal.

Legalities and Hunting Regulations

When it comes to hunting with air rifles, understanding the legalities and regulations is essential before you head into the field.

Here we will explore license requirements, prohibited species, and hunting seasons.

License Requirements

In general, a hunting license is required to hunt with an air rifle.

License requirements vary from state to state.

Some states may have specific regulations for air rifle hunting, while others may treat air rifles as traditional firearms.

It is crucial to check with your state’s Department of Wildlife or similar agency to determine the proper license(s) needed.

Prohibited Species

Not all animals can be hunted with an air rifle.

States have specific regulations on which species are allowed to be hunted using this type of weapon.

Commonly permitted game includes:

• Small game: such as rabbits, squirrels, and woodchucks
• Upland birds: such as grouse, pheasant, and quail
• Certain predators: such as raccoons and foxes

On the other hand, some states only allow air rifles for hunting game smaller than deer or bears.

It’s crucial to consult your state’s hunting laws to ensure you are within legal parameters.

Hunting Seasons

Hunting seasons for air rifle users generally follow the same seasons as traditional firearms or archery.

Depending on the state, there may be special seasons designated specifically for air rifles.

Keeping track of relevant hunting seasons, such as:

• Small game: typically open during the fall and winter months
• Upland bird hunting: varies by state, with seasons ranging from late summer to early winter
• Predator hunting: often year-round, with some seasonal restrictions depending on the species

Remember to stay informed about your state’s hunting regulations and season dates to avoid penalties and ensure a safe and enjoyable hunting experience.

Air Rifle Calibers for Hunting

When it comes to hunting with air rifles, choosing the right caliber is crucial to achieve a humane and effective kill.

Let’s take a look at a few various calibers suitable for hunting different types of game.

.177 Caliber

The .177 caliber air rifle is the smallest and most common caliber.

It has the longest range and is suitable for hunting small game, like squirrels and rats up to 60 to 80 yards.

With its lower power and muzzle energy, .177 caliber is best suited for smaller game and pest control.

.22 Caliber

Moving up in size, the .22 caliber air rifle offers more power and is ideal for hunting small to medium-sized game, such as rabbits and squirrels.

It can push a 14.3-grain .22-caliber pellet upwards of 850 fps.

.25 Caliber

.25 caliber air rifles provide even more power, making them a good choice for larger pests like raccoons, opossums, and woodchucks.

The increased caliber size offers more energy upon impact, which can be helpful when hunting these types of animals.

.30 Caliber

The .30 caliber air rifle is a solid choice for those looking to pursue mid-sized game, such as hogs and coyotes.

With even more muzzle energy and a larger projectile, this caliber offers a balance between precision and power, making it suitable for hunting these types of animals.

.35 Caliber

.35 caliber air rifles are a popular choice among hunters who are targeting larger game.

Some states have a minimum caliber requirement of .35 for airgun hunting, and this caliber provides a significant increase in power compared to smaller calibers.

With at least 400-foot pounds of energy at the muzzle, it is sufficient for taking down larger game.

.45 Caliber

For even larger game, a .45 caliber air rifle is recommended.

Producing 700 to 800 ft.-lbs. of energy, this caliber is suitable for hunting whitetail-sized animals.

The increased energy and bigger projectile size contribute to a more effective and humane kill.

.50 Caliber

Finally, the .50 caliber air rifle is the largest and most powerful option for airgun hunters.

Best suited for big game, this caliber offers top-level power and velocity, ensuring the highest chances of a successful and humane hunt.

It’s essential to check local laws and regulations, as not all states permit the use of .50 caliber air rifles for hunting.

Remember that regardless of the caliber you choose, practicing shot placement and knowing the limitations of your air rifle is crucial to ensure a humane and ethical hunting experience.

Choosing the Right Air Rifle

Accuracy

When selecting an air rifle for hunting, accuracy is crucial. You’ll want a gun that consistently hits the target, allowing for clean, ethical shots.

Spring- or gas-piston-powered airguns are recommended for small game hunting, offering the necessary velocity for an accurate shot.

Some factors that influence accuracy include pellet type, gun weight, and the shooter’s skill.

To maximize accuracy, it’s essential to practice regularly and familiarize yourself with the rifle before hunting.

Power and Range

The power and range of your air rifle mainly determine the type of game you can hunt.

The most popular air rifle calibers are .177 and .22.

The .177 caliber provides a more powerful impact, thanks to its lighter weight and greater kinetic energy. However, for larger game or more extended ranges, consider a .30 to .35 caliber air rifle, which can shoot Diabolo pellets at 50 to 100 ft-lb.

These higher-caliber air rifles can be used for hunting small game or predators.

Keep in mind, though, that air rifles for big game hunting should have at least 300-foot pounds of energy (fpe) to ensure an ethical kill.

Not all air rifles can achieve this power, so always check the rifle’s specifications and consult with local game laws.

Popular Models

There are several popular air rifle models on the market suitable for hunting.

It’s essential to research and select an air rifle that suits your hunting needs and complies with local regulations.

Factors such as accuracy, power, range, and your preferred game type will help you make an informed decision.

Recommended Air Rifles for Hunting

When it comes to air rifle hunting, there are various options available that cater to a range of different game animals.

Three top air rifles suitable for hunting are the Airforce Texan, Hatsan Piledriver, and Umarex Hammer. Each of these air rifles offers unique features and capabilities.

Airforce Texan

The Airforce Texan is a popular air rifle for hunters.

This high-power, pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) rifle comes in various calibers (.257, .308, .357, and .457), allowing the hunter to choose the perfect caliber for the game they are targeting.

With power levels of up to 500 ft-lbs, this air rifle has both the capacity and accuracy necessary for some larger game.

This air rifle features:

• PCP system for powerful and consistent shooting
• Top-loading air tank for easy refilling
• Adjustable power settings
• Rifle length: 48 inches; weight: 8 pounds

Hatsan Piledriver

The Hatsan Piledriver is another high-quality choice for airgun hunting enthusiasts.

Delivering muzzle energies of up to an impressive 800 ft-lbs, this powerful PCP air rifle is available in .45 and .50 calibers, suitable for various game animals.

Some notable features of the Hatsan Piledriver include:

• PCP system with a large air reservoir for longer shooting sessions
• Side-lever action for easy cocking and reloading
• Quiet Energy Technology (QET), reducing the noise emitted when fired
• Rifle length: 44.3 inches; weight: 10.6 pounds

Umarex Hammer

For hunters looking for a versatile air rifle that packs a punch, the Umarex Hammer might just be the answer.

This PCP-powered rifle sports a unique configuration that allows it to shoot both .50 caliber bullets and arrows. With a 4,500 psi air tank, the Umarex Hammer has up to 700 ft-lbs of energy.

Key features of the Umarex Hammer include:

• Muzzle Energy Selector (MES), allowing for customized power levels
• Lightweight design, weighing only 8.5 pounds without a scope
• Air tank capacity for up to 5 shots per fill
• Rifle length: 43.75 inches

These three air rifles offer a variety of options for airgun hunters, from PCP systems to different calibers and power levels.

Depending on the specific game targeted, one of these rifles is sure to help achieve a successful hunting experience.

Types of Pellets and Ammunition

When hunting with an air rifle, choosing the right type of pellets and ammunition is essential for a successful and ethical hunt.

Let’s explore the different types of pellets and ammunition available for air rifles, such as pellet weight, hollow-point pellets, and shotgun ammunition.

Pellet Weight

The weight of a pellet plays a significant role in its accuracy, velocity, and energy upon impact.

Lighter pellets typically have higher velocities but may be more affected by wind and air resistance.

Heavier pellets, on the other hand, have slower velocities but offer better penetration and accuracy, especially at longer distances.

Some popular options for airgun ammunition include:

• .177 Caliber: Ideal for small game hunting and target shooting
• .22 Caliber: A versatile option for medium-sized game and pest control
• .25 Caliber: Suitable for larger game and providing more knockdown power

Hollow-Point Pellets

Hollow-point pellets feature a hollowed-out cavity in their nose, which allows the pellet to expand upon impact.

This expansion increases the pellet’s surface area and energy transfer, resulting in better penetration, greater shock, and more effective wound channels in your prey.

Hollow-point pellets are especially effective for hunting small game and pest control.

Some airguns, like the AirForce International 94 Spring .25 caliber, consistently shoot 18-grain domed pellets at 700 feet per second, making them an excellent choice for hunting small game animals like squirrels or rabbits.

Shotgun Ammunition

In addition to traditional pellets, some air rifles can also be used with shotgun ammunition.

This type of ammunition features multiple projectiles, which provide a more extensive shot pattern and increased chances of hitting your target.

Shotgun ammunition for air rifles typically comes in .357 to .50 caliber sizes.

In conclusion, understanding the different pellet types and ammunition options is crucial in making the right choice for your air rifle hunting needs.

It’s also essential to consult your state’s hunting laws and guidelines to ensure that you are using the correct caliber and energy for the specific game you are hunting.

Remember to always practice safe and ethical hunting.

Hunting Small Game with Air Rifles

When it comes to hunting small game, air rifles can be an efficient and effective tool.

They are often quieter and less expensive than traditional firearms, making them popular among hunters who pursue squirrels, rabbits, and various species of birds.

Let’s look at how air rifles can be used for hunting these common small game animals.

Squirrels

Squirrels can be an entertaining and challenging target for air rifle hunters.

These nimble creatures are quick and agile, making them difficult to hit at times.

A quality air rifle with decent accuracy and power is crucial for successful squirrel hunting.

Many hunters find that a .22 caliber air rifle firing at 1070 fps, such as the Hatsan BullBoss, provides the ideal balance between power and precision.

When hunting squirrels, it’s important to aim for the head or heart to ensure a quick and ethical kill.

Patience is also key, as these critters can be quite wary and may take some time before revealing themselves.

Rabbits

Rabbits are another popular target for air rifle hunters.

Like squirrels, they can be skittish and require a stealthy approach.

The use of an air rifle allows hunters to get closer without alerting their quarry, increasing the odds of a successful hunt.

An air rifle with sufficient power for hunting rabbits should be chosen. Some hunters opt for .22 caliber rifles, while others prefer more powerful options like the .35 caliber.

Again, a well-placed head or heart shot is vital to ensure a humane kill.

Birds

Birds are a diverse and challenging group of small game animals to hunt with an air rifle.

Some hunters focus on pigeons, while others target crows or even larger game birds like pheasants.

Regardless of the specific bird species, an air rifle must have both accuracy and power to be effective.

It’s crucial to know the energy requirements for the particular bird species being hunted, as it will determine the necessary features of the air rifle.

For example, a .22 caliber air rifle might be suitable for smaller birds like pigeons, while a larger caliber and higher energy output (e.g. .45 or .50 caliber) may be necessary for hunting whitetail-sized game.

Accuracy, patience, and a keen understanding of hunting regulations in your state are essential components in the successful and ethical pursuit of small game animals with air rifles.

Larger Game Hunting with Air Rifles

Air rifles are not just for plinking cans or shooting small pests.

With the development of big-bore airguns, hunters can now ethically harvest larger game animals such as hogs, deer, and coyotes.

Let’s take a look at the possibilities and challenges of hunting larger game with air rifles.

Hogs

Hunting hogs with air rifles is becoming increasingly popular among hunters.

Powerful airguns such as .45- and .50-caliber air rifles are capable of delivering enough energy to

In the early 1950s, Robert Ruark set off for British East Africa having never killed an animal with a rifle before. His safari battery—a .220 Swift, .30-06 Springfield, .375 H&H and a .470 Nitro Express—was based on the recommendations of friends; he was well advised. While the latter three rifles make up a well-rounded safari battery, it was Bob’s professional hunter—Mr. Harry Selby—who had what would become the most famous rifle of the lot. It was made by Rigby of London on a Mauser 98 action, chambered for a proprietary cartridge: the .416 Rigby.

From its release in 1911 until the beginning of WWII, there were less than two hundred .416 Rigbys made, yet it had developed a great reputation among the serious hunters in East Africa. The design of the huge case, with the 45 degree shoulder and its immense girth, points directly at cordite—the common smokeless propellant at the time of the .416’s inception. Being highly temperature sensitive, cordite would generate dangerous pressures in the tropical heat, resulting in cases being stuck in their receivers. When pursuing dangerous game this is never a good thing. So Rigby designed a very large case in order to keep those pressures down. Driving a 410-grain bullet at 2370 fps, it quickly developed a reputation for being a big-game stopper; few hunters who ever used one for any length of time ever had a complaint. While relatively rare, hunters like John ‘Pondoro’ Taylor loved it, and even W.D.M. ‘Karamoja’ Bell ordered more than one. However, at the end of WWII, Kynoch—the major British ammunition manufacturer—was in financial ruin and ammunition became increasingly rare.

The bore diameter refused to fade, with several important developments that aided its relevance. Bob Chatfield-Taylor necked down the belted .458 Winchester case to hold .416″ bullets, resulting in the .416 Taylor, and American professional hunter George Hoffman necked up the .375 H&H case to give us the .416 Hoffman. Both are sound designs, with the Taylor being housed in a .30-06-length action, and the Hoffman requiring a magnum-length action.

Fast forward to the late 1980s, and we see Remington releasing a very Hoffman-like cartridge: the .416 Remington Magnum. Loosely based on the ailing 8mm Remington Magnum (the 8mm and .416 share the 25 degree shoulder), the .416 Remington adopted the ballistic formula of the later .416 Rigby loads: a 400-grain bullet, at a muzzle velocity of 2400 fps, for 5,000 ft.-lbs. of energy. This came at a price though, in the form of higher chamber pressures. If that didn’t make the shooting world cock an eyebrow, the Model 700 rifle it was chambered in featured a push-feed design (as they all have) and a relatively small extractor. Several instances in truly hot weather—like Zambezi Valley hot—saw some broken extractors and stuck cases, resulting in a hunter holding a club instead of a rifle. I firmly believe those situations arose more from a rifle design problem than from the cartridge. I’ve used the .416 Rem. Mag.—in a controlled round feed Winchester Model 70—in temperatures approaching and exceeding 100˚F and have never had an issue.

Undoubtedly, the Rigby and Remington variants on this bore diameter are the top dogs in this fight, with the .416 Weatherby and .416 Ruger becoming more obscure each year. The .416s fill a definite gap between the very flexible .375s and the heavyweight .458s, giving a best-of-both-worlds solution to the need for a cartridge that will shoot relatively flat, yet have the horsepower to tackle huge beasts at close ranges. So, which .416 do you choose and why?

Firstly, let’s agree that both cartridges—handloading aside—have identical ballistics, pushing a 400-grain bullet at 2400 fps, so velocity is off the menu. Secondly—without steering this into another campfire argument—I believe that a bolt-action rifle for dangerous game should be in the controlled round feed configuration, with a beefy extractor. Too many times I have been in a place where you absolutely depend on a rifle of this caliber, and a broken extractor would be a terrible thing. Both cartridges require positive extraction, each and every time, and I’ll reiterate: the .416 Remington has posed no issue, irrespective of temperature, in a CRF rifle.

So, with the ballistics being equal and the pressure differences posing no problem, who has the advantage? This is one of the rare instances where you’ll see me give the nod to a new design over the old, especially among the African cartridges; I do, in fact, prefer the .416 Rem. Mag. over the .416 Rigby, and I’ll cite the reasons why.

Magazine capacity is my first reason. The Rigby case measures 0.5949″ at its widest, while the Remington (and all the H&H family) measures .0.532″ at the belt; that difference allows for greater magazine capacity for the slimmer cartridge. When it comes to dangerous game, more is better.

Length is also an issue. The Rigby cartridge requires a longer (read heavier) action than the Remington does, which adds weight and expense. There are fewer of these actions made, and therefore they are less-readily available. The .416 Remington rifles can be made more affordably. Thirdly, there is the cost of ammunition. Rigby ammunition is expensive, roughly 30 percent more than .416 Remington ammo. When you take into consideration the cost of a dangerous game safari, it’s a minimal investment, but the Remington represents a better value for identical ballistics.

I’ve also found the recoil of the Rigby cartridge to exceed that of the Remington cartridge. I can and do handle both, but there is a noticeable difference, more than likely caused by the larger powder charge in the bigger Rigby case required to attain the velocity.

If you prefer the Rigby based on cool-factor alone, I totally get it. It deserves the respect it gets; it’s been with us for over a century, and it immediately conjures images of the classic safari era. But looking at it from a practical point of view, I give the edge to the .416 Remington; I’ve shot mine for years, and wouldn’t hesitate to take it anywhere in the world with me.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

Whether you are looking to practice target shooting or you want to get into airsoft games, learning more about airsoft guns is an absolute necessity. This guide is here to help you learn more about what airsoft guns are, how they work and what type of model might be right for your needs and preferences.

What is an Airsoft Gun?

Airsoft guns do not shoot traditional bullets; instead, they shoot 6-millimeter pellets, otherwise known simply as “BBs”. Not only do airsoft guns not shoot traditional bullets, but the pellets leave the chamber at a much slower speed than bullets from a standard gun. This means that when airsoft guns are used safely and correctly, getting hit by an airsoft gun pellet should not cause much pain or result in any heavy-bleeding injuries. However, that being said, an airsoft gun is also not a toy. When operating an airsoft gun, you will still need to be mindful of your environment and take the recommended safety precautions. It is also recommended when playing games with airsoft guns that everyone wears the standard protective gear.

What are Airsoft Guns Used For?

Some airsoft guns have been designed to be almost exact replicas of real guns, whereas some operate more like paintball guns. In the same way as the designs of an airsoft gun can differ, so can the intended uses. Some of the most common uses of airsoft guns include:

• Airsoft gun games this is seen as an alternative to paintball and is played throughout the US, Europe, and Asia.
• Some police forces, like the UK police, also use airsoft guns, especially when dealing with large crowds.
• Some people choose to use airsoft guns to deter smaller animals.
• Airsoft guns are also popular with people who are looking for a safe way to practice target shooting.

The Different Types of Airsoft Guns

Some of the most common types of airsoft guns include:

Spring-Powered

Spring-powered is not the strongest form of airsoft gun, but they do provide a superior level of shooter control and accuracy. This type of airsoft gun is viewed as ideal for beginners, there are many affordable options, and they come in a number of different sizes.

Electric Guns

Airsoft electric guns, otherwise known simply as AEGs, are battery-powered; the pellet from these guns is propelled using an electric motor and a gearbox. This type of airsoft gun is extremely modifiable and is one of the most popular forms of airsoft gun, alongside the rifle.

Sniper Rifle

The sniper rifle is the perfect choice of airsoft gun for anyone who is looking to shoot at a long distance. The majority of airsoft sniper rifles work with a spring-power mechanism which allows you to use a significant amount of power in one shot. While the majority of sniper rifles are spring-powered, it is possible to purchase an electric or gas-powered sniper, depending upon your specific needs and preferences.

Shotgun

If you are looking for force rather than distance, then the shotgun might be the perfect choice of airsoft gun for your needs. Many airsoft shotguns have a very similar feel to their more serious counterparts and offer a great spray fire experience. However, they do require close proximity and can be difficult for younger users to pump.

Are you looking for a way to comfortably carry your firearm & help you quickly switch between a rifle and sidearm?

If so…you need a good ‘ole rifle sling.

Rifle slings are perfect for ensuring a steady and accurate shot, which is why they’re a favorite among many sharpshooters.

But there’s a bazillion of them out there.

So to help you out, I’ll go over choosing the right material, types of sling, and sling mounting systems. Oh…and, of course, some specific models.

We also have a video going over the benefits of 2-point slings and our favorite ones…

And now, after years of using all the slings out there, we’ve come out with our own.

We’re focusing on the AR-15 since it’s America’s favorite rifle…but a lot of these options will also work for other long-guns and even precision rifle rigs.

THE QUICK LIST

Best AR-15 Rifle Slings

Editor’s Pick AR-15 Sling – Pew Pew Tactical Flatline Sling

We know what we wanted in a sling:

• not TOO long so you have to deal with excess
• stupid simple length adjustment
• a nice pull-tab
• just the right amount of padding
• MULTICAM

We would obviously sew our fingers together so we began our search of new manufacturers out there that were making a name for themselves.

We went with Flatline Fiber to create the Pew Pew Tactical Sling.

Made by hand in Georgia…and with plenty of stellar reviews to boot. Us being one of them.

We have our PPT laser gun logo on Multicam, both regular and black, of course.

A very nice pull tab…these things make a big difference.

And just the right amount of padding that’s slightly less than the Vickers padded version. If you’re not on sentry duty with a 15-pound behemoth this amount of padding is perfect.

Also one thing that’s overlooked…it has the right amount of length so you’re not ending up cutting material when attaching.

Check them out at TriStar Trading where you can find more of our goodies…as long as it’s Multicam!

And don’t forget the Quick Detach Sling Mounts!

Troop Favorite AR-15 Sling – VTAC

The Viking Tactics is a popular two-point sling that’s designed to boost comfort and freedom of movement.

The upgrade/hybrid version has stronger hardware and feels lighter. Used by tons of U.S. troops.

One common complaint is that it is built for an 8-foot monster. However, that’s because the extra length is set for people wearing armor or using it on a long shotgun.

I follow Kyle Lamb’s advice and use some duct tape to tape off the excess…never know when it might come in handy.

One thing that sets it apart from other slings is that it feels light but still super strong.

Also, there are two pull tabs you use to adjust the length — one to cinch it and one to let it go.

Highly recommend watching this video of Kyle Lamb for install and use.

And also highly recommend going with at least something padded if you’re going to be standing around for a few hours on patrol (or even a class).

The VTAC’s padding is thin but makes a world of difference. Especially if you’re going to be standing around a while with your rifle at your side.

My specific version that I use is the padded upgraded/hybrid multicam.

Also Great AR-15 Sling – Blue Force Gear Vickers Sling

Another used by tons of US troops is the Vickers Sling by Blue Force Gear.

There’s also a padded version for enhanced comfort.

Check it out in action…

Note that it only has one tab to deal with…

The length is also more manageable…no duct tape is needed but you might not be able to put it on very long shotguns (or if you’re huge and/or wearing a lot of gear).

The padding is also a little thicker than the VTAC.

But the nylon of the sling itself feels stiffer and is definitely thicker.

And given the choice between padded and not padded versions, definitely go with padded.

What’s your take on the Vickers?

Best Single Point Sling – Magpul MS4 Dual QD Gen2

If you’re looking for a single-point sling that’s comfortable, durable, and easy to adjust, try the Magpul MS4 Sling.

Its 1.25-inches wide nylon material is strong enough to resist wear and tear from constant use but soft enough to prevent chaffing and discomfort.

Additionally, it can be converted to a two-point sling when you grow tired of hitting yourself in the nuts.

The newest Gen2 model has two heavy-duty QD sling swivels and a better quick-adjust slider.

Best 3 Point Sling – Specter Three Point Sling

When it comes to three-point slings, comfort is key.

You don’t want to have something strapped to your body that feels excessively tight or restricts your movement more than it should. Many people prefer Specter Three Point Slings because they’re less likely to cause chafing or affect the wearer’s range of motion.

However, like we go over down below…unless you’re already trained in three point slings and don’t want to try something else…we’d forego this for a two-point option.

Best Precision Sling – Ching Sling

It is made up of two straps, a standard two-point sling and an additional smaller strap connected to the gun’s center stud.

Think of the Ching sling as a two-point sling that was optimized for the “hasty sling” method of shooting.

As you’re carrying a rifle with the Ching sling, the small strap can be slid up and out of the way. When it comes time to shoot, simply loop your arm through the first loop, between the first and center studs, to get a steadier aim.

Works for the AR platform but used more for hunting or precision rifles.

I use a variant of this in NRL22 competition shooting to make unsupported standing shots a little easier.

Best Cuff Sling – Tactical Intervention

Cuff sling variations are a favorite among sharpshooters because they allow you to get a stable and accurate shot without the use of a bipod.

They’re easier to set up than loop sling methods like the “USGI sling” and are an excellent way to improve your aim.

The Tactical Intervention is a popular cuff sling that’s developed with military-grade nylon and is able to withstand regular wear-and-tear.

Again…geared more towards non-AR rifles and precision rigs. We see these more and more in rifle competitions such as NRL and NRL22.

Best Sling Accessories

Once you’ve got the sling, you’ve got to make sure you can attach it to your rifle.

Almost all of the slings mentioned will hook into your butt stock without any additional hardware…whether into the slits or using a QD (quick disconnect) mount.

If you don’t have that…or like having a connection on your end place…check out the BCM QD End Plate (perfect for single point slings).

You might need something for your handguard if it doesn’t already come with QD holes…however I found the factory ones are either too forward (gets in the way of lights) or too rear (too short for slinging on your back).

In that case you’ll need something like a Troy Rail Mount.

However, my current favorite is the Magpul RSA QD since it is adjustable and keeps the sling on one specific side. My loadout below gives me space to activate my light.

It also has anti-rotation so your sling doesn’t get jumbled up

And for actual QD mounts and swivel combos…

We go with Magpul QD Slings (exposed for easier pressing).

or the Midwest Industries (flush fit for added security).

My preference is the flush model since I don’t take on/off my slings that much…and having something accidentally disconnect your sling would suck.

Choosing the Right Material

Gun slings are typically made from one of two options: leather or nylon.

There is no clear-cut answer when it comes to which sling material is better.

Some people believe that nylon slings are better because they’re not as heavy, while others prefer leather because they feel it gives a slight elastic feel that nylon doesn’t.

I personally go with the nylon slings.

If you are someone who prefers the traction and style that comes with a leather sling, it’s important to note that they can stretch over the years.

Types of Gun Slings

There are three main types of gun slings: single-point, two-point, and three-point slings. Then some more specific ones applicable for sharpshooting.

I’ll give a brief explanation of each type first then list the pros and cons of each type of sling so that you can get an idea of which type suits your specific needs.

Single Point Slings

The single-point sling receives its name because it uses one connection point to attach to the gun.

The single-point sling is a favorite for a lot of gun enthusiasts.

The sling wraps around the user’s body while the point attaches to the rear of the weapon.

Pros

What makes the single-point sling a favorite among tactical shooters is that it makes dropping and picking up your weapon simple.

The beauty of the single-point sling is that it always sits directly in front of you (and most likely pointing in a safe direction down).

This makes it ideal for situations where you need to go quickly hands-free, but also must have the ability to quickly grab your weapon at a moment’s notice.

Another benefit of using the single-point sling is that it allows you to perform a wide range of movements such as transitions due to a barrier.

Additionally, your gun doesn’t have to be in front of you with a single-point sling.

You can also wear it in a way that keeps your weapon at your side or on your back. However, those options aren’t ideal for scenarios where you need quick access to your gun.

Cons

Despite the convenience and easy accessibility that comes with single-point slings, they aren’t without their drawbacks.

For starters, single-point slings provide little shooting support. Your aim with a single-point sling won’t be much better than it would be with no sling at all.

Another con of the single-point sling is your gun will sway a lot when you’re not holding it.

For some people, moving hands-free with a single-point sling can be especially annoying because they constantly get knocked in the groin or knees with their gun.

Here’s an example of a loose two-point sling but you can imagine it with merely one.

Once you find the proper tightness adjustment for your body, your single-point sling shouldn’t move as much.

And overall, it’s a great tactical piece for anyone who’s not in situations that require a lot of running.

Two Point Slings

The two-point sling is one of the most commonly-used gun slings and is sometimes known as a carrying strap.

As you may have guessed, two-point slings are named because they are attached to the gun with two connection points.

They are my favorite and the most versatile for the AR-15 and other rifles.

This sling connects to the rear and front of the firearm, on the bottom of the stock. It’s perfect for carrying a long gun over the shoulder during long hunting treks.

Pros

Not only are two-point slings great for carrying your weapon, but they can also be used to improve your aim.

There are three ways to carry a gun using the two-point sling:

• American carry – slung over back of the shoulder, muzzle up.
• European carry – slung over the front of the shoulder, muzzle up.
• African carry – slung over the back of the shoulder, muzzle down.

Some people prefer the African carry because they feel it makes it easier to grab and aim your weapon. The downside to the African carry is that you risk clogging your muzzle with dirt and debris as you walk.

Remember when I said it can improve your aim?

Simply loop the sling around your non-dominant arm and use the tension to keep your weapon stable. This is called the “hasty sling” method.

Another type of shooting modification that can be used with the two-point sling is the “loop sling.”

This is achieved by disconnecting the rear portion of the sling and pulling a loop through the adjustment slide. Then, slide your arm through the loop and pull tightly:

This will help stabilize your long gun and provide you with the opportunity to shoot more accurately. This tactic is referred to as the “USGI sling.”

Cons

The downside of the two-point sling is that it can be difficult to retrieve your gun in a situation where time is of the essence.

It’s also a little harder to transition from side to side unless you leave some extra length to free up your neck area.

Three Point Slings

The three-point sling also connects to the front and back of the firearm like its two-point counterpart. However, the three-point sling differs in that it has an additional loop that goes around your torso.

When it comes to the three-point sling, I find that people either love it or hate it.

Pros

Overall, I think it’s a good sling that keeps your gun within reach, just like its single-point counterpart.

In addition, the three-point sling has more control than the single-point sling when you’re moving hands-free. That means you don’t have to worry about having your gun bang up your shin or groin area as you move.

The biggest benefit of the three-point sling is that you can easily transition from a rifle to a sidearm without having to fumble between guns.

Cons

However, the three-point sling doesn’t come without its own set of cons. Some shooters complain that three-point slings tend to get caught on bolt release mechanisms and block ejection ports of rifles.

Also, this…

In case you’re wondering…yes that rifle was loaded and no this was not a drill/test/skit. This is, in all its glory, the three-point sling in the field.

The Ching sling is a special shooting sling that incorporates principles of the “hasty sling” and two-point slings. It requires three connection points and can be used for carrying and aiming.

The Cuff sling is a shooting sling designed to help marksmen get an accurate shot without the use of a bipod.

Conclusion

For almost all users…you’re probably good to go with a two point sling.

Remember, a good gun sling can work wonders by increasing your accuracy or helping quickly switch between your long gun and sidearm. Check out more of our essential gear and guns such as Best Weapon Lights or Best Scopes/Optics.

What sling did you end up getting? How do you like it? Let us know in the comments! For more AR gear, check out our round-up of the Best AR-15 Furniture & Accessories.

In this guide I’m going to show you the best varmint scope.

In fact:

These are the same scopes that many optic experts and competitive shooters use.

The best part?

I’ve sorted the scopes by use. So whether you’re on a budget or need a solid AR 15 varmint scope, you’ll find it here.

Let’s get started!

The 5 Best Varmint Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best varmint scope:

1. Nightforce SHV 5-20×56: Best For AR-15
2. Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50: Best for 223
3. Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44: Best For 17 HMR
4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Varmint Scope for the Money
5. Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50: Best For 22-250

1. Nightforce SHV 5-20×56: Best For AR-15

Every once in a while a really high-end company will listen to the masses and make a product that’s top of the line while still being affordable.

This is one of those times.

Nightforce is well known as the pinnacle of high-end precision scopes.

Their scopes are so tough that one literally took a bullet through the scope in the middle of combat and it kept working.

That’s a level of quality you’re just not going to see on a budget scope.

The average firearm owner is finally in luck though, because Nightforce has released the Nightforce SHV.

This is the perfect AR-15 varmint scope.

It’s got all of the quality, most of the features, and it’s a third of the price.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you exactly why you need to add this scope to your collection.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on this lens is pristine.

The clarity even when cranked up to 20x power is unbelievable.

The FOV is huge and the edge to edge images have incredible color contrast.

I’ve used this scope to look out to 1,000 yards and I could still see everything clearly like it was right in front of me.

The glass is fully multi-coated and thanks to that it has super high light transmissions.

Whether you’re shooting in full daylight, dawn, dusk, or anywhere in between you’ll be able to see everything you’re aiming at.

The Nightforce SHV comes with an etched SFP MOAR reticle which you can choose to have illuminated or not.

You want the illuminated option.

Without it, you’re not going to be able to see at 20x power at dawn or dusk.

With it though, it makes sighting and zeroing a breeze.

Some people aren’t fans of the extra hash marks on the MOAR reticle, and if you’re one of them you can get an IHR reticle on it instead.

Either way, if you’re shooting in low light often get the illuminated reticle.

It eliminates distortion due to low light conditions and it’s gonna make your life easier.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief is 3.15”-3.54”.

That’s pretty standard and works well for me on my AR.

If you’re looking for an option with a little more room, check out these AR scopes

It’s got a generous eye box and the turrets are extremely adjustable to make it work for you.

Add to that the fast focus eyepiece it comes with and you’ve got a great scope on your hands.

Durability

This thing is a beast.

At 29.1oz it’s absolutely massive, so you’ll want to take that into account if you’re going to be lugging it around.

On the other hand, it’s extremely durable.

It’s made of a solid 30mm piece of aircraft-grade aluminum that’s reinforced with hardened bronze throughout it.

The walls of the scope are also 3x thicker than any of its competitors which helps reduce stress and improves thermal stability.

On top of that, it’s water, fog, and shockproof.

Literally whatever you can think to throw at this scope it’ll be able to withstand.

I had a sling malfunction while hauling my rifle on a hunt and my rifle dropped and landed right on the scope.

It took no damage.

Not a scratch, not a ding or dent, and it still held it’s zero when I shot it afterward.

For me that more than made up for its weight.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets are capped and have metal dials that allow for fingertip adjustments.

They move easily and click audibly and keep their position when they’re supposed to.

It also comes with a zero-set feature that allows a quick return to zero.

It doesn’t matter how many elevation adjustments you’ve made, it’ll return to your initial zero in a snap.

It took me three shots to get it perfectly zeroed, and I’ve never had an issue with it since.

I’ve shot it from 100-600 yards and the return to zero was spot on each time.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range is 5-20x, and it’s got a 56mm objective lens.

It’s the perfect scope for any kind of hunting you want to do.

I’ve used it to pick off varmints on my land, to take down 8pt bucks, and for target practice.

The clarity is as perfect at 20x as it is at 5x, and I’ve never had an issue with tunneling like I have with other scopes.

This scope comes with a side parallax adjustment knob to manually fix any parallax you might encounter.

It starts at 25 yards and goes to infinity, and it’s clearly marked with the distances

Mounting & Rings

It doesn’t come with rings or a mount, so you’ll need to order one separately.

I decided to stick with Nightorce and picked up their 1.125 Titanium Alloy Ring Set and it’s worked great for me.

I’ve also recently discovered how great ghillie suits are when hunting, so check out these suits if you’re interested.

Is the Nightforce SHV 5-20×56 worth it?

Without a doubt.

This is an insane amount of quality and features at what is a steal of a price for Nightforce.

Let’s Review:

• 5-20x magnification
• Water, fog, & shockproof
• Super clear at every power
• Illuminated MOAR or IHR reticle
• Capped turrets and hugely adjustable knobs
• Great for varmints, hunting, or target practice
• Incredible durability with aircraft-grade aluminum & hardened bronze

On top of all that is the Nightforce transferable limited lifetime warranty.

This is an incredible scope from an incredible company.

Don’t just take my word for it though, check out the Nightforce SHV for yourself.

2. Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50: Best for 223

If you want a scope that pairs perfectly with your 223, the Leupold VX-3i is the best.

In fact, its low light capabilities make it one of the best scopes around for hunting.

It has quickly become one of my all time favorite scopes.

Want to know why? Keep reading.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

With this scope you get crystal clear glass for optimum clarity.

Leupold uses their own lens coating, called DiamondCoat2, that cuts back on glare, protects from scratches, and lets in tons of light! This, by itself, provides you with an amazing sight picture.

Plus, they have the Twilight Max Light Management system, which gives you better clarity at dawn, dusk, or any low light conditions. You’ll get an average of 20 extra minutes of hunting time at the beginning and end of the day.

While it’s not a night vision scope, it’s the closest you’ll get in a regular scope.

If that’s not enough, this scope has a Fine Duplex CDS reticle.

CDS stands for Custom Dial System. What this allows you to do is customize it to your weapon and ammo. Then it calculates ballistics and holdovers for you, which means long range shots just became a piece of cake!

The fine duplex draws your eye right to the center of the target with thicker edges that melt into fine lines at the center, making target acquisition fast and easy.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on this scope is 3.7 at high magnification and 4.5 at low magnification.

For the most part, I find this to be more than adequate, but it can be a little tight at those super long ranges. It’s easy to manage with a good cheek weld though.

The nice, wide field of view from the eyebox allows you to cover a larger area, which makes this a great 223 varmint scope.

Durability

Leupold makes scopes that are rugged and highly durable and the VX-3i is no exception.

In fact, Leupold puts all their scopes through 5000 impacts with their recoil simulation machine, aptly named the Punisher, to ensure that their scopes will survive anything you can throw at it.

The aircraft quality aluminum that this scope is made from keeps it lightweight, while also being tough as nails.

The VX-3i also has Leupold’s proprietary gas blend and seals that safeguard the scope from water and keep it from fogging up.

On top of that, Leupold offers a lifetime warranty on this scope, so if you have any problems, they’ll take care of it for you.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are ¼ MOA precision finger clicks.

They are easy to adjust and you get audible, solid clicks each time. The numbers on the dials are pretty big too, so they’re easy to see even if your eyesight isn’t so great.

What about zeroing?

I had mine zeroed in just a few shots. It was quick and painless.

Not only that, I’ve easily shot over 5000 rounds and have yet to readjust the zero. It’s held true for me.

Parallax & Magnification

With this scope you’ll get a variable magnification of 6.5-20x.

If you’re like me, you use your 223 for varmint hunting, which makes this scope perfect for those intermediate to long range targets.

If you’re looking for something that will help you with short to medium ranges, check out this list of the best 1-6x scopes.

What I love most about the VX-3i is that it has a side focus parallax adjustment. It’s easy to use and means you’ll never have to worry about distortion.

Mounting & Rings

While this doesn’t come with any type of mount, it does come with a bikini lens cover.

However, I didn’t really like that cover much and ended up buying the Alumina flip cover instead. It works much better and is easier to use.

For the mount, I purchased these Leupold Savage rings, but you can get whichever rings you prefer as long as they’re 30mm.

Is the Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50 worth it?

Varmint hunting with a 223 at dusk and dawn has never been easier than with this scope.

It has:

• Clear glass
• DiamondCoat2
• Fine Duplex CDS reticle
• Precision ¼ MOA turrets
• 6.5-20x variable magnification
• Rugged, light-weight, durability
• Side focus parallax adjustment
• Twilight Max Light Management System

If you’re looking for the best scope for your 223, try the Leupold VX-3i 6.5-20×50. You won’t be disappointed.

3. Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44: Best For 17 HMR

I don’t always use an HMR rifle, but it’s perfect for getting rid of varmints on my property.

In that case, I’m not going to use just any scope.

I want a 17 HMR scope that’s going to work perfectly with my HMR.

If you’re looking for something with more power check out these Ruger scopes.

But if you’re just wanting to do some close to mid-range hunting, then that’s where the Vortex Crossfire II comes in.

It’s a redesigned version of Vortex’s best selling rifle and you can pick it up for an incredible price.

The original was fantastic, but somehow they’ve managed to improve it even more.

Keep reading and I’ll tell you why the Vortex Crossfire II is the perfect scope for you.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The lenses are fully multi-coated with an anti-reflective coating which gives you great light transmission and clarity.

That means this scope is perfect for low-light shooting and for catching varmints just before dawn.

It’s not the clearest glass on the market, but to find anything comparable you’ll be paying at least twice the amount.

For the insanely low price though the clarity and glass are pretty darn great.

I was able to shoot a coyote at 300 yards and it felt like it was only 50 yards away.

Once you start getting past 700 yards or so though tunneling became an issue for me.

I was able to adjust it, but it was still noticeable.

In short, use it for close to mid-range shooting and it’ll treat you right.

If you’re looking for a long-range scope, check out these scout scopes instead.

It comes with an illuminated Dead-Hold BDC reticle, which is fantastic once you get used to it.

It’s great for experienced shooters as it helps eliminate guesswork from holdover and windage corrections.

If you’re new to shooting, you may want to stick with a more basic reticle.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief is 3.7-4.4”.

That’s perfect for most rifles, and I found it incredibly comfortable.

Combined with the fast-focus eyepiece and the generous eye box, I had no issues easily acquiring my targets.

Durability

This scope is made of a single solid piece of aircraft-grade aluminum which makes it incredibly durable.

I dropped it out of a blind one day on accident and I just knew it was gonna be wrecked.

When I retrieved it not only was it still intact and functioning, but it still held my zero perfectly.

It’s fog and shockproof, plus it’s nitrogen purged and O-ring sealed.

That means it’s 100% waterproof in any environment.

Vortex is known for the incredible durability of their scopes, and they back it with a lifetime warranty.

At this price, you’re not going to find another scope that’s anywhere close to this level of quality.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The ¼ MOA turrets are capped and finger adjustable, so you don’t need any tools to get the job done.

They audibly click and easily reset to zero.

It only took me 3 shots to zero it, and it’s held that zero for over 500 rounds now.

Parallax & Magnification

It’s got a 6-18x magnification range with a 44mm objective lens.

The magnification changes are smooth and there are tons of adjustments you can make.

The Vortex Crossfire II comes with a parallax adjustment knob that starts at 10 yds and goes to infinity.

The tunneling I mentioned earlier at higher mags was easily and quickly fixed with that feature.

Mounting & Rings

No mounts or rings are included, so you’ll need to buy them.

I use the Game Reaper Marlin Medium Mount and it’s worked perfectly for me.

Is the Vortex Crossfire II 6-18×44 worth it?

For the price, there’s no other scope on the market that comes close.

When you factor in all its great features this scope is a steal.

Let’s look at the best features again:

• 6-18x mag
• 3.7-4.4” eye relief
• Incredible durability
• Water, fog, shockproof
• Illuminated Dead-Hold BDC reticle
• Fully multi-coated, anti-reflective lenses
• Finger adjustable ¼ MOA capped turrets

As if all of that weren’t great enough, Vortex adds their amazing Lifetime Warranty.

If anything ever happens to your scope they’ll replace or repair it.

That’s a pretty solid statement for a company to put behind their products.

Go look at it for yourself. Check out the Vortex Crossfire II here.

4. Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50: Best Varmint Scope for the Money

The Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 is the best budget friendly scope for varmint hunting.

In fact:

I bought this scope in a hurry because I needed something affordable and effective for hunting coyotes. Now it’s my go-to for varmint my ar 15.

Here’s why it works…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

For a sub-$400 optic, I wasn’t expecting much. But when I mounted it on my AR, I was blown away.

The glass is clear and crisp with plenty of light.

That glass quality struggled at higher magnifications (18x-24x), but only in comparison to top dollar scopes. For $300, I can’t complain.

The lenses are fully multicoated to reduce reflected light so no more worrying about advertising your position. The coating also increases light transmission which gives the optic its crisp image.

I went with the APMR MIL etched reticle. It’s also available in MOA.

The reason why I like this Christmas tree design is because it has a lot of windage and elevation lines. I don’t particularly like relying on turrets to line up my shots at distances out to 1000 yards.

When it comes to hunting, I like to move fast. With the APMR MIL, I could easily sight my scope from 100 to 1000 yards by knowing what each line corresponded to in yardage.

It also helped that the reticle was first focal plane, a feature normally only seen in top dollar scopes.

This means that the reticle shrinks and grows with your target as you zoom in or out, making target engagement quicker at low power while offering precise holdover positions in finer detail.

Finally, the reticle has a red LED illumination feature.

It’s no Trijicon, and thus not daylight bright to my standard, but it’s proved more than helpful at night.

In dark lighting conditions, the illumination is crisp and not overpowering, handy for hunting down the skunk in your neighborhood.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

For an otherwise versatile scope, the Argos BTR’s eye relief is its most limiting factor.

Only 3.3 inches of eye relief makes it tight for heavy recoiling calibers, but so long as you’re aware of it and practice good cheek weld, you’ll be fine. I’ve had no issues so far.

Overall, the eye box is generous. It does get a bit snug at those higher magnifications (18x-22x).

Durability

Despite the affordable price point, this scope isn’t cheaply made.

The scope body is single piece machined from 6061T6 aircraft grade aluminum meaning fewer moving parts and less points of failure so the scope can withstand serious recoil.

Not to mention that it’s completely waterproof, shockproof, and fogproof.

The factory argon purging removes any moisture from the tube which ensures that it remains fogproof with better thermal stability.

The lenses are also protected with a XPL coating to protect them from dirt, grease, and weather. Although I still use the included lens caps just in case.

I’d also like to add that the Argos BTR is the shortest, lightest rifle scope of this magnification on the market. I didn’t have to make any carrying adjustments or gym visits, the scope was ready to grab and go.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets are accurate and hold well, although they were a bit mushy until I removed some of the factory heavy grease.

Re-greasing the turrets was a quick ten-minute process that made a world of difference for me.

All it takes is wiping out the factory grease with a long cotton swab and re-greasing with some Halofun Green Slime Lubricant.

After that, the clicks were positive and audible. The hash marks on the turrets make adjustments quick, as well as returning to zero easily.

Speaking of, I was zeroed within 7 shots of getting on paper. It held zero, despite being dropped twice, heavy recoil, and a couple hundred rounds.

Parallax & Magnification

The 6x-24x magnification makes this optic versatile for multiple shooting disciplines.

At 55 yards, I took out a hog that I could only see through the scope.

The magnification from 6x – 20x is very clear. Above that, it does lose some clarity and become a bit blurry.

The side parallax adjustment knob is smooth to turn and accurate, good for adjustments from 10 yards to infinity.

Mounting & Rings

I use the GG&G Flt Accucam Mount W/30Mm Rings. They’re sturdy, adjustable, and lightweight, although a little pricey.

If you want to save some money for more ammo, I recommend the Burris PEPR 30mm Mount. It works just as well, but any 30 mm rings should do.

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I also recommend a lens shade for sunny conditions. The Athlon Sunshade (50mm) works well to reduce glare and sun reflection.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50 worth it?

If you’re looking for a scope that can fill a variety of shooting disciplines and needs, then I highly recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

There isn’t another scope in its price range that can match its brightness, clarity, and durability.

Here’s why:

• Durable build
• Rapid zero adjustment
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• Athlon “Gold Medal” Warranty

If you need a reliable varmint scope but can’t justify dropping a couple grand on an optic, I recommend the Athlon Argos BTR 6-24×50.

5. Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50: Best For 22-250

Sightron is one of the less popular scope makers in the market, and that’s a shame.

Their scopes are extremely durable, high quality, and they come with a killer warranty.

Plus the clarity of their glass is on par with Nightforce lenses for less than half the price.

I personally use this one on my Remington as my go-to varmint rifle scope.

There are other scopes you could use for you .22-250, but the Sightron SIII SS is my favorite.

If you’re looking for a top of the line scope without the price tag, then keep reading.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The glass on this scope is crystal clear.

We’re talking I can see out to 1600 yards like it’s right in front of me clear.

Whether I have it at 6x or 24x magnification, the image quality is exactly the same.

It’s got fully multi-coated anti-reflective lenses which allow for a huge amount of light transmission.

That means I can see as clearly at dawn as I can mid-day.

When I’m shooting coyotes before the sun comes up at 300 yards on my land that’s an amazing feature.

The sharpness and clarity of this scope far exceed its price point.

It’s got a MOA-2 glass etched reticle which is a perfect companion to the fast-focus eyepiece.

That combination makes for extremely fast target acquisition so you always know where your target is.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

It’s got 3.6-3.8” of eye relief.

On my .22 Remington, that’s perfect.

It gives me just enough room that I don’t feel crowded.

Even at the higher magnifications, it’s not cramped.

Durability

This is a very sturdy scope.

It’s made from a single 30mm tube of high-quality aircraft-grade aluminum.

It’s nitrogen-filled to prevent fogging at any temperature.

That’s a huge advantage when you’re hunting in the chill early morning.

Add to that the fact that it’s water and shockproof and you’ve got a scope that you can use in any situation, elevation, or climate.

It’s a little hefty at 24.3oz, but the added weight allows for the scope walls to be twice as thick as its competitors.

Even if it gets knocked around a bit, this scope is going to hold up.

I mainly use mine for varmint hunting, so if you’re planning on going hunting with an AR instead, you should take a look at these scopes.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

This scope comes with tactical turrets that are designed to withstand extreme weather conditions.

They’re not going to budge if they get accidentally tapped.

With that said, they’re still finger adjustable and fairly easy to rotate, but they’re a little harder to maneuver than others.

The elevation and windage knobs both adjust to 100 MOA.

That combined with the ExacTrack adjustment system makes it insanely customizable to whatever situation your shot requires.

It’s also a breeze to zero, it took me less than three shots.

The turrets are clearly marked, so it’s super easy to reset them to zero regardless of how many adjustments you make.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range is 6-24x with a 50mm objective lens.

It provides incredible range and clarity whether you’re varmint hunting or running a 3 gun competition. Speaking of competition, check out my best 3-gun scope guide.

This scope also has a side parallax adjustment which ranges from 40 yards to infinity.

I’ve never had an issue with it tunneling, but if you do it’s easily fixable.

Mounting & Rings

There aren’t any mounts or rings included, so make sure you grab one.

I recommend Midwest Industries QD Offset Mount. It works great for this scope and for varmint hunting.

Is the Sightron SIII SS 6-24×50 worth it?

It’s an amazing scope that offers a level of quality you normally only see for 2-3 times the price.

Let’s review:

• 6-24x mag range
• Incredible durability
• Water, fog, and shockproof
• Glass etched MOA-2 reticle
• Crystal clear up to 1600 yards
• Nitrogen purged to eliminate fogging
• Tactical turrets and ExacTrack windage & elevation system

While definitely not the cheapest scope on the market, I believe it’s well worth the asking price.

On top of everything else, Sightron offers a Lifetime Replacement Warranty which can’t be beaten.

Go check out the Sightron SIII SS for yourself.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best varmint scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which scope will you pick for your firearm?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

Learn the steps to make your own venison snack sticks at home on a Traeger grill with this step-by-step tutorial.

This post contains affiliate links for The Bearded Butchers, Amazon, and Traeger, but all opinions and thoughts are my own. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

For many of us living in Wisconsin, deer hunting is a big deal! It’s a chance for hunters to go out into the woods and provide meat for their family for a relatively low cost. This year, our family was lucky enough to have three deer to process, giving us a chance to enjoy some hearty and delicious meals like venison stew. But one of our favorite and most practical ways of processing our venison is in the form of venison snack sticks. This year, we decided to make them ourselves (we’ve made sausage at home before, but not snack sticks), and we were really pleased with how smooth and simple the process went. We hope that you can benefit from this post and can start making your own snack sticks at home too!

Table of Contents

• Tools Needed to Make Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill
• Ingredients for Venison Snack Sticks
• Steps to Making Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill
  • Mix Venison and Pork Pieces
  • Grind Meat
  • Add Seasonings
  • Grind Meat Again
  • Stuff Casings
  • Smoke the Snack Sticks
  • Cool Snack Sticks
  • Cut and Package Snack Sticks
  • Store Snack Sticks
• Video of Steps
• Get Your Supplies at The Bearded Butchers
• Save and share this post!
• More meat recipes
• Want to read more about growing, raising, and cooking your own food?

Tools Needed to Make Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill

• Meat Grinder: We used this meat grinder from Amazon for our small batch processing.
• Sausage Stuffer and Stuffing Horn: We wanted to invest in a sausage stuffer that was going to last us our lifetime, so we got the MEAT! 15 lb. vertical sausage stuffer for our needs. For stuffing the snack sticks, we purchased the 10 mm size stuffing horn.
• Traeger Grill (or Smoker): The Traeger will be used to cook your snack sticks slowly to a safe-to-eat temperature.
• Snack Stick Casings: You can get these in a kit (like we did) from the Bearded Butchers, or order them separately.
• Sharp Knife: These knives are really sharp, which is exactly what you want when you’re at that final stage of cutting the snack sticks. This is also a great knife for cutting the venison too!
• Large Container: You’ll need a food-grade container to hold the ground meat as it is grinding and for mixing in seasonings.
• Meat Thermometer: You’ll use a meat thermometer to continuously check the cooking progress of your snack sticks and to help you know when they’ve finished cooking.
• Wooden Cutting Board

Ingredients for Venison Snack Sticks

• 20 pounds venison:Best harvested from a big buck with a fun story to tell! But not necessary, of course. You’ll want to cut your venison into smaller sized chunks so that it can easily fit through the grinder.
• 5 pounds pork: You can use pork trimmings or pork fat. Venison is a very lean meat, so adding pork fat helps to add flavor and hold the meat together. Again, make sure that this is cut into small sized pieces to fit through your grinder.
• Seasonings and Cure: We used a Cajun snack stick bundle from the Bearded Butchers that we really enjoyed. They have a lot of great seasonings over at the Bearded Butchers to check out and try!

Steps to Making Venison Snack Sticks on a Traeger Grill

Mix Venison and Pork Pieces

In a large tub, combine your venison and pork together so that the meats are mixed equally and are combined nicely for the grinding process, which comes next.

Grind Meat

Grind your venison and pork mixture into a large container. During this first grind of meat, you’ll want to use a coarse grinding plate so that the meat can go through the grinder easily.

Add Seasonings

After your meat has been ground once, mix in the seasonings and cure. You can also buy a smoke flavoring packet to mix in, and you’ll want to do that now during this stage if you are choosing to use that. Make sure that the seasoning covers all of the meat equally. We used our hands to manually mix it in, but you can purchase a meat mixer to do this job if you’d rather.

Grind Meat Again

After seasonings have been well mixed into the meat, grind the meat once again using a finer cutting plate. This is the final grinding stage and prepares the meat to go into the casings.

Stuff Casings

Fill your sausage stuffer, and then slowly push the meat into the casings. Don’t overfill or underfill your casings; simply let it come out of the stuffing horn to fill the entire casing evenly.

Smoke the Snack Sticks

Take your rope of snack sticks and place them on the trays of the Traeger grill without them overlapping. You can use both upper and lower grates of your grill for this smoking process. You will cook the snack sticks slowly, changing temperature as you go. You should cook your snack sticks at these temperatures during these times in the cooking process:

• Hours One and Two: Smoke at 165 degrees
• Hour Three: Raise the temperature to 175 degrees
• Hour Four: Raise the temperature again to 200 degrees. *Your finished snack sticks should reach an internal temperature of 155-160 degrees.

Cool Snack Sticks

Once your snack sticks have reached the 155-160 degree mark, you should remove the snack sticks from the grill and place back into your clean container (be sure you don’t place it back into a container that had raw meat in it as this can potentially cause bacteria to be spread). Mist the snack sticks with cold water to stop the cooking process, then drain. Place the snack sticks in the refrigerator until cooled down completely.

Cut and Package Snack Sticks

The final step is to cut your snack sticks into pieces that will fit into your packaging. We vacuum sealed our snack sticks in quart bags, which allows for about an 8 inch snack stick and fits about 10-12 per package. In total, we got about 200 eight inch snack sticks from this process.

Store Snack Sticks

Store your snack sticks in the freezer until you are ready to use them.

Video of Steps

Watch this short video to get an overview of what each step looks like.

Get Your Supplies at The Bearded Butchers

My husband Dan has been a huge fan of The Bearded Butchers for a long time. To purchase some the great products we used to make our snack sticks, head on over to The Bearded Butcher’s website and shop their store.

The Bearded Butchers often offer great discounts upon arrival to their site, so please check them out!

Save and share this post!

More meat recipes

Smoked Venison Summer Sausage on a Traeger Grill

Want to read more about growing, raising, and cooking your own food?

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