You’ve heard great things about the range, accuracy, and knockdown power of 6.5 Grendel rounds out of an AR-15, and now you want to try it. We completely understand. Fortunately, modifying your AR-15 to load and fire 6.5 Grendel rounds is easy – all you have to do is replace the barrel, bolt, and magazine with 6.5 Grendel compatible ones.

Getting the right 6.5 Grendel barrel is especially important because it will determine the handling and accuracy of your gun. Keep reading to discover the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel.

The Best 6.5 Grendel Barrel Length Depends on Your Needs

Understanding your shooting needs is the first step toward picking the best 6.5 Grendel barrel length. For instance, if you plan to hunt, you will need a long barrel that delivers enough velocity and stopping power to take down your preferred prey.

Long-range shooters also need a long barrel that delivers enough velocity to hit far-away targets. However, your barrel can’t be overly long. A too-long barrel will make your gun bulky and clumsy, leading to trouble wielding and aiming your gun.

What about home protection, self-defense, or combat training? For such scenarios, you don’t need a barrel that delivers maximum range. Instead, go for a gun you can easily and quickly pull, aim, and shoot. Short barrels are best for this because you can easily move the gun within the closed spaces of your home or during close to mid-range combat.

What Are the Most Popular Lengths for 6.5 Grendel Barrels?

What counts as a long or short barrel will depend on your ammo type. For instance, unlike 9mm barrels that can be as short as 4.5 inches, the shortest 6.5 Grendel barrel you can get is 12 inches. Why? Since 6.5 Grendel is a mid to long-range ammo, it requires a barrel that can support that range.

Below are the most popular 6.5 Grendel barrel lengths:

• 12.5 inches: A 12.5-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel is ideal if you want to keep your gun as compact and light as possible for easy wielding.
• 16 inches: A 16-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel is a mid-length barrel that offers better muzzle velocity than 12 inches without overly compromising maneuverability.
• 18 inches: The 18-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel is popular among shooters who want to hit far-off targets.
• 20 inches: If you want maximum velocity and range, a 20-inch Grendel barrel is the way to go.

6.5 Grendel Barrels for Long Range Shooting

You can hit targets up to 800 yards away with 6.5 Grendel ammo, but only if you have the right barrel length. A 20-inch barrel is long enough for complete gunpowder burning to generate maximum bullet velocity. The velocity generated by the long barrel will help your long-range precision shooting by making a round fly further on a flat trajectory before gravity pulls it off course.

While longer barrels are available, tests show that the velocity generated by a 22-inch barrel is close to that of a 20-inch barrel. Since the velocity gains from going 22 inches or higher are negligible, you are better off sticking with a 20-inch barrel. Also, getting a 22-inch barrel or higher may make your gun uncomfortably heavy and long.

Optimal Barrel Lengths for 6.5 Grendel Hunting Rifles

Among many hunters, 18 inches is considered the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel. Since the barrel isn’t overly long, you don’t have to worry about your gun getting caught in bushes while hunting for prey. Also, the barrel’s length will not get in the way of pulling and shouldering your gun to take aim or make follow-up shots quickly.

Even better, an 18-inch barrel combined with a 6.5 Grendel round can generate enough power to take down most deer-sized targets at 500 yards. Also, an 18-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel offers enough stability and velocity to help rounds maintain course and remain accurate, increasing your chances of hitting prey in a kill zone.

The Most Versatile Barrel Lengths for Multipurpose 6.5 Grendel Rifles

Do you want an AR-15 that can multitask? If so, fit it with a 12.5 or 16-inch 6.5 Grendel barrel. These mid-length barrels offer the best of both worlds, keeping your gun easy to wield and offering impressive velocity and accuracy.

Barrel Length FAQs

Here are answers to common questions about the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel:

How far can you accurately shoot a 6.5 Grendel?

The distance you can accurately shoot 6.5 Grendel rounds will depend on various factors, such as wind, barrel length, skill level, and bullet weight. In standard conditions, a 6.5 Grendel round can travel 200 yards without experiencing a drop. That means you get the most accuracy at 200 yards. However, a skilled shooter can compensate for drop and accurately hit targets at 800 yards.

What does a 6.5 Grendel compare to?

The ammo most similar to the 6.5 Grendel is the .308 Winchester. They are both long-range rounds, but the .308 Winchester has a slightly larger diameter. The bigger size of the .308 gives it a bit more knockdown power than the 6.5 Grendel. However, the 6.5 Grendel takes the prize for accuracy because of its lower recoil and superior wind resistance.

Is it better to have a longer or shorter barrel for 6.5 Grendel?

Whether you should get a longer or shorter barrel for 6.5 Grendel will depend on your shooting plans. Go for a longer barrel if you want maximum accuracy and bullet velocity. However, if you want a gun that stays easy to carry and wield, you are better off with a shorter barrel. While a shorter 6.5 Grendel barrel has less range and power, it’s more than enough to take down targets at 200 yards.

How much does a 6.5 Grendel drop at 500 yards?

The drop of a 6.5 Grendel round at 500 yards will depend on your barrel and bullet weight. According to data from AmmunitionToGo.com, 6.5 Grendel ammo fired from a 24-inch barrel will drop 50 to 60 inches at 500 yards, depending on the specific 6.5 Grendel ammo you use. Hornady Match 123 Gr. ELD drops 51.3 inches at 500 yards, while Federal Gold Medal 130 Gr. OTM drops 59.48 inches.

Need a 6.5 Grendel Barrel?

Now that you have the scoop on the best barrel length for 6.5 Grendel, which one do you plan on getting? Don’t forget that the right barrel length for your AR-15 is one that fits how you intend to use your gun. Visit the Ballistics Advantage store today to browse and order your preferred 6.5 Grendel barrel and the other components you need to upgrade your AR-15 to take 6.5 Grendel rounds.

Venison is already delicious and nutritious in itself, but when mixed with pork fat, you can bring even more flavor out of your deer meat.

It’s especially great for burgers, meatloaf, meatballs, and every hunters favorite: snack sticks and sausage!

In this article I’ll go over the best pork-to-venison ratios, when you should mix with beef fat, and a few other helpful tips.

This page contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Table of Contents

• How Much Pork To Mix With Venison
• What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?
• Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?
• What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?
• How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?
• Final Thoughts
• Sources

How Much Pork To Mix With Venison

You should mix roughly 30% pork fat with venison when making snack sticks, venison sausage should have up to 50% pork fat, and venison burgers and meatballs need only contain about 20% pork fat. The amount of pork fat you need to mix with venison varies depending on the dish you’re making.

What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?

You should mix pork and beef fat with deer when grinding. These act as binding agents and flavor enhancers during the grinding process to compensate for the low moisture content of the lean game meat.

The choice and amount of meat to be added typically varies by personal preference. However, it would be best to read up on established golden ratios and meat-venison mixtures to enjoy your favorite ground venison dishes.

You can opt to mix beef fat with venison to make a patty or meatloaf more cohesive or to enjoy juicy snack sticks that would instead feel dry if you stick with pure venison.

If you are sort of a food connoisseur, you may notice, though, that the overall texture and juiciness of the beef-venison combination lacks refinement, in which case, you may want to try mixing it with pork.

Ground pork fat functions similarly to beef fat when mixed with venison, although you might observe a more savory mix when using pork.

An essential factor to watch out for and consider would be the source of pork fat that you mix with venison.

For instance, fat from pork belly may contain too much flavor and could overpower the deer meat.

You will not want this if you are more inclined to highlight venison’s flavor than the former in the ground meat mix.

Meanwhile, opting for back fat may provide you with just the right chewy texture without compromising the authentic venison taste.

Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?

Mixing pork fat with venison provides moisture, flavor, and cohesion to your venison grounds and a soft texture that outperforms beef fat. Additionally, venison is generally lean meat, so it needs pork fat to bind the venison grounds together.

Otherwise, you may find yourself struggling to cook pure venison patties that easily break apart.

Purists may find this problematic, thinking that precious venison meat deserves to be enjoyed free from other types of red meat that are not as lean or healthy.

The thing about the lean nature of venison is that it makes it challenging to prepare several other meat-based dishes without compromising quality.

However, if only you can toss just the right amount of pork fat into your grinder, you can expect a marbly grind that closely resembles the most common patties – beef patties.

The combination of flavorful pork fat and venison also results in a delectable ground mix. When ground, the combination of juicy pork and deer meat leaves you satisfied while also free from the greasy after-taste that comes with, say, beef.

Sausages with the perfect pork fat to venison ratio coupled with the ideal preparation steps can leave you wanting more. Besides the seasoning added to the pork and venison mix, the pork fat itself already adds flavor to your deer meat.

The moisture extracted from different types of pork cuts, such as bacon and belly, makes the entire meal even more satisfying.

The lean nature of venison makes it quickly dry out during meal prep, so the extra fat accords you with the juiciness necessary to enjoy delicious – but dry – meat.

Imagine indulging in protein-rich, saporous venison snack sticks with a hint of bacon. It seems like it could not get any better.

What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?

As mentioned earlier, to enhance the juiciness and taste of venison, a certain amount of pork fat is needed. So, it’s best to add pork cuts that contain high-fat content in your grind.

Deciding on the pork cut to use depends on the taste of the end product you want. Do you want to retain the gamey taste without the dryness, or would you prefer one with a hint of pork flavor?

You can mix deer meat with any kind of pork, including pork butts or shoulders or a higher fat pork belly. Butts and shoulders are milder in flavor, while pork belly gives you a more pronounced pork taste. It depends on your preference.

If you want the unadulterated taste of venison, grind it together with pork butts or shoulders. These pork cuts are located at the front end of the pig and contain high-fat contents.

However, if you don’t mind a more domesticated taste, go for the pork belly. This slightly more pricey cut is located in the pig’s underside and is where bacon comes from.

It also has a high-fat content and that distinct pork taste that will undoubtedly influence your venison grind.

Meanwhile, back fat provides your ground venison with a soft and chewy texture, perfect for sausages and meatballs.

How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?

To mix venison and pork, start by ensuring the meats are chilled. This will help with handling and grinding. Next, find a ratio of pork to venison that works for your tastes and then grind them separately before mixing them together into a uniform mound. Finally, add any spices at the end to taste.

The amount of pork you add with venison depends on the kind of meal you plan to prepare. You’ll want to experiment on the correct pork to venison ratio and source of pork fat that you will be using.

Different types of pork fat contain varying moisture and flavor, so consider this when deciding whether to opt for savory belly fat or the more low-key back fat.

For venison sausages, you would want a more fatty venison grind. As such, I suggest mixing at least 20% pork fat with 80% venison. Of course, you can go higher than this, depending on your taste.

Just remember that eating sausages with a fat content higher than 50% can make you feel lethargic.

Venison snack sticks are a versatile outdoor treat typically marketed to hunters that may coincidentally hunt for game. If you want to have that extra money for that cool new hunting gear, you can save on buying snack sticks by making them on your own.

You can make venison snack sticks using 100% venison, but most prefer adding a little bit of pork into it (around 30%) to achieve a certain degree of juiciness. Just make sure you have the time to make them before your next hunt.

Lastly, if you’re into burgers, meatballs, and meatloaves, you may want to try burger patties made of venison. Again, you’ll just have to add a little bit of fat to prevent it from drying out and crumbling during the cooking process.

As with patties made of beef, the fat content is essential to grind the meat. Always remember that venison is leaner than beef, and you may want to add a little more fat than you would wish to on your beef patties.

The safe bet is to go for 20% fat to make the taste of your patties richer.

Pro Tip: I always prefer to grind my venison semi-frozen, after it’s been thawed out. This keeps the meat cold, and prevents your grinds from getting too wet or juicy,

Final Thoughts

One of the most rewarding aspects of hunting is the processing of your own game meat. I highly recommend you give it a try.

You May Also Like: Buck, Buck, Moose: Wild Game Cook Book

If you prefer to use your local game processor or butcher, that’s fine too. Just ask them to add some pork fat to your ground venison, and you’ll have a versatile ingredient that can replace nearly any ground beef recipe.

Thanks for reading!

See Also: Why Eating Does Vension Sometimes Give Me Gas?

• Neem Oil Deer Repellent: Does It Really Work?
• Is It Okay To Burn Bark In a Wood Stove?
• Do Deer Eat Morel Mushrooms?
• How To Properly Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes (Safely!)
• Is Fatwood Safe for Wood Stoves? Here’s What You Should Know
• Is Beaver Good to Eat? You May Be Surprised!
• Is Bread Bad For Deer? Here’s What You Should Know
• Are Roosters Good to Eat?
• 3 Easy Ways To Tell If Your Wood Stove Is Leaking

Sources

• Fox Valley Foodie: How To Butcher a Deer – Grinding Venison
• Legendary Whitetails: The Key to Crafting a Better Venison Burger
• Allied Kenco Sales: Wild Game Sausage Making Information Sheet
• Nassau Foods: Preparing the Perfect Venison
• Home Kitchen Talk: Pork to Venison Ratio for Summer Sausage
• Home Kitchen Talk: How Much Pork Fat to Add to Venison Sausage?
• North American Whitetail: How to Grind Whitetail Deer Venison

In the spring of 1989, I sat down to talk with Donald “Buzz” Chamberlain and his wife Betty at their downtown Boscobel antique store. It was one of my first interviews and I was a little nervous about whether people would talk to me.

I didn’t need to worry though. People were more than happy to talk to me about the river and their escapades.

Buzz told me about his record breaking beaver that he trapped on March 28, 1951 at the mouth of the Blue River in Grant County with his buddy Karl Kroll.

Weighing in a 82 pounds, the beaver was big enough to warrant a mention in the Wisconsin Conservation Bulletin (the precursor of Wisconsin Natural Resources Magazine) of June 1951. Buzz is pictured to the right in the photo along with Karl Kroll, who helped him trap the monster animal.

The two used a set trap to capture the beaver. They received $35 for the pelt which was pretty good money for the day.

Chamberlain told me that 1951 with the first year that beaver were trapped in Grant County after a trapping ban. I wondered if the large size of the beaver was related to the trapping ban. I wanted to verify the ban so I went to the State Historical Society (SHS) and checked the hunting regulations for that era. I sat in between the tightly-packed stacks at the SHS library going through the old paper regulations and found one line in the 1949-50 pamphelt regarding Beaver.

Beaver – Season, if any to be established by the Conservation Commission at its December meeting.

Since the pamphelt was inconclusive about a trapping ban, I contacted Jessica Rees Lohr, Wildlife Research Scientist at the Department of Natural Resources (DNR) to see if she could solve this mystery.

She put me in touch with Shawn Rossler, DNR furbearer specialist and he stated:

“My recollection is that we (WI) closed the beaver season on and off from 1903-1947. Starting in 1947 or 48, we had some form of beaver season…but I don’t know what years they were regulated or considered unprotected. I believe we had season dates that lasted anywhere from 9 – 200 days…some counties were open and others closed. That said, I don’t have any additional documents to reference that would give us specifics for the opening of Grant County to modern, regulated beaver trapping, unfortunately.”

So what do I believe?

My instinct it is to believe Buzz and that trapping was banned in Grant County in at least one year prior to 1951. That’s not the sort of thing that people just make up.

To absolutely know for sure, I’d have to dig through the Conservation Commission’s notes about trapping in that era. I tried to do this, but found no one at the DNR who would help me. Through an open records request, the DNR sent me the Wisconsin Wildlife Harvest Summary: 1930-2018. In this report, it states beaver harvest information in 1951 for just the top counties in northern Wisconsin: Vilas, Bayfield, Iron, Washburn and Sawyer. The average pelt price was $11.81 so Buzz got a good price for his beaver. Prior to 1951, there is no listing of Grant County as a place where beaver were harvested.

Does this report validate that there was no trapping of beaver in Grant County prior to 1951? Not exactly, but it’s the best that I could come up with.

For now, I choose to believe Buzz and that the large size of the beaver could have resulted from a ban on trapping in the years prior to 1951.

Buzz Chamberlain passed away July 12, 2003. He is buried in the Boscobel Cemetery in Boscobel, Wisconsin.

Animal bite force is a complex science and you’re likely to find all kinds of conflicting figures, regardless of whether you measure in PSI (pounds per square inch), Newtons of force, or pounds of force. On top of this, conducting bite force tests is difficult and rarely a top priority for scientists studying animals.

If that’s true, how can we be sure which animals have the strongest bites in the world? Thanks to the testing some scientists have conducted and sophisticated computer modeling, we can determine a credible estimate of what an animal’s peak biting power could be.

Before we get to the top ten strongest bite forces in the animal kingdom, we’ll explain how bite forces are measured, why it matters for animals, and how we can model them.

What is Bite Force?

Why Does Bite Force Matter?

How Do People Calculate Or Test Bite Force?

What Determines Bite Force?

10. Tiger (1,050 psi)

9. Spotted Hyena (1,100 psi)

8. Grizzly Bear (1,000 to 1,200 psi)

7. Polar Bear (1,200 psi)

6. Gorilla (1,300 psi)

5. Jaguar (1,500 psi)

4. Hippopotamus (1,800 psi)

3. American Alligator (2,150 psi)

2. Great White Shark (4,000 psi)

1. Saltwater Crocodile (3,700 psi)

Other Bite Forces

11. Lion (650 psi)

Despite their fearsome reputation and iconic status, lions only have a slightly higher bite force than mastiff dogs. They rely on hunting in groups, dragging down and suffocating prey, so they never needed a bite force as strong as the solitary tigers and jaguars.

12. Nile Crocodile (3,000 – 5,000 psi)

I’ve found conflicting numbers when it comes to Nile crocodiles. The one study I found only used an eight-foot (2.43 m) specimen and extrapolated that a 16-foot (4.87 m) specimen would have a bite around 3,000 PSI. I also found people who believed the bite could exceed 5,000 PSI. In the end, it was too murky to include them in the above top ten, but they likely have the strongest bite force behind saltwater crocodiles and white sharks.

13. Bull Shark (478 psi)

Bull sharks have the strongest bite of any shark when you factor in body size. They’re much smaller than white sharks, reaching typical sizes of nine feet and around 800 pounds. White sharks of a similar size would only be capable of around 360 PSI.

14. Black Piranha (72 psi)

You’re probably looking at the measly 72 PSI bite force of a black piranha and wondering why it got mentioned here. Black piranhas grow to around a foot in length and at most weigh in around eight pounds (3.62 kg). Their bite force of 72 PSI is massive in comparison to their body weight, and this measurement came from a fish weighing only around 2 ½ pounds (1.13 kg).

15. Tasmanian Devil (200 psi)

16. Orcas (19,000 psi)

While also untested, a killer whale can theoretically exert 19,000 psi in bite force. This is mainly due to their sheer size, as they can weigh up to six tons (6096.28 kg) and reach thirty feet (9.14 m) in length. Most evidence is based on simulations, theory, and captive whale studies, so it did not merit a spot on the list.

You may also like: Learn the 21 Amazing Types of Whale Found on the Ocean: Complete with Images, Facts, and More!

Strongest Bite Force By Type of Animal

Mammal

Reptile

Fish

You may also like: Meet the 25 Amazing Types of Sharks: Complete with Images, Fun Facts, Infographic, and More!

Human Bite Force: Comparison With Humans

What About Dinosaurs?

Some of the largest and most powerful creatures to ever roam the Earth are now extinct. Apex predator dinosaurs like the Tyrannosaurus Rex and unmatched marine predators like the megalodon had incredibly strong jaws and crushing bite forces.

How Would We Even Know?

Strongest Dinosaur Bite Force

1. Megapiranha

The now extinct relative of modern-day piranhas, mega piranha, grew to around thirty pounds. Just like its ancestors living among us today, it had an incredibly strong bite for its size. In theory, mega piranha was capable of a bite between 279 and 1,067 psi.

2. Megalodon

3. T-Rex

The infamous T-rex boasts likely one of the strongest overall bite forces of any land animal to ever exist. Their jaws were capable of putting out a force of over 35,0000 psi. This would have been extra helpful to take down the large megafauna it coexisted with and preyed on.

Most rifle barrels in the past several years have come threaded from the factory so the shooter can add a muzzle device such as a muzzle brake or a compensator. This has recently extended to bolt-action and lever-action rifles more commonly found in the hunting as opposed to the tactical arena. Some come equipped with thread protectors and many come with a muzzle device.

Although the included muzzle device is typically a flash suppressor, some jurisdictions cling to antiquated and ill-informed laws that regard these devices as an “evil feature,” whereas a muzzle brake or compensator is perfectly legal.

We’ll go over the nitty-gritty of muzzle brakes and compensators, but if you’re looking for a quick reference, take a look at this chart for the two major differences between the two:

MUZZLE BRAKECOMPENSATOR Deflects blast to the sidesDeflects blast down Primarily used to reduce felt recoilPrimarily used to reduce muzzle flip

WHAT IS A MUZZLE BRAKE?

A muzzle brake is a device which threads onto the end of a firearm’s barrel. Although construction varies, the primary identifying characteristic is a series of cuts that direct the burning gasses and muzzle blast of a fired round away from the shooter and most often toward the side or 180 degrees from the muzzle itself.

WHAT DOES A MUZZLE BRAKE DO?

As most of the felt recoil from a firearm originates at the muzzle, this effort is primarily done to reduce recoil. Secondary benefits of muzzle brakes are byproducts of this as the reduction in felt recoil can aid the shooter with regard to accuracy and allow for faster follow up shots.

Some muzzle brakes, when used in conjunction with a suppressor, can act as a sacrificial blast baffle. This is not the same as a sound baffle, which decreases the sound signature of the firearm, but rather that the brake takes the brunt of the muzzle blast and fired gasses as opposed to the baffles in the suppressor itself. This tends to prolong the life of the suppressor.

The drawback to most muzzle brakes is that they can change the direction of the sound of the fired round. In some cases, the shooter may find the report of the weapon to be louder but most of the time it is the other shooters in close proximity that will find the shots fired to be louder. This is typically a result of the other parties feeling the shockwave generated as opposed to the sound itself.

Originally, muzzle brakes were meant for use on calibers that generated a lot of felt recoil and they were commonly found on belted magnum rifle cartridges intended for big game or dangerous game hunting or bolt-action pistols chambered in 308 Winchester and 30-06 Springfield for use in handgun hunting. However, this is not always the case and they have been used successfully on rifles where a muzzle brake would have been uncommon even a decade ago.

Competitive long range shooters tend to favor muzzle brakes, as the redirected gas and flash allow them to maintain a better sight picture. Three gun shooters like muzzle brakes as they can allow for faster follow-up shots and a reduced recoil impulse.

WHAT IS A COMPENSATOR?

A compensator is a type of muzzle device that works in a different way than a muzzle brake. A compensator’s primary role is to reduce “muzzle flip” or “muzzle climb.” While some manufacturers claim that they aid in recoil reduction, this is not entirely true, as most compensators operate on a different principle.

WHAT DOES A COMPENSATOR DO?

Most compensators divert gasses and muzzle blast in a downward fashion to keep the firearm from rising during the firing sequence.

One of the earliest compensator designs was the Cutts Compensator found on the Thompson submachine gun. The 45 ACP round, while fired on full auto, would cause the muzzle to rise due to recoil and the Cutts Compensator helped keep the guns on target.

The same principle carried over to competitive pistol shooting in the late 1970s. The ports on a compensator are carefully angled and machined to force the pistol downward. This allowed competitive pistol shooters to fire rapidly and accurately, scoring multiple hits on the same target.

Eventually, the compensator made its way back to rifles, primarily semi automatic modern sporting rifles (MSR), as the virtue of decreased muzzle rise was seen as an asset on the competitive shooting circuit.

LINEAR COMPENSATORS

One type of compensator that caught the attention of shooters was the linear compensator, which directed the noise and expanding gasses forward and away from the shooter. While it did not suppress the sound in any way like a silencer, this redirection of sound reduced concussion and the perceived decibel level, making for a more pleasant shooting experience.

A MUZZLE BRAKE VS. A COMPENSATOR FOR USE WITH A SUPPRESSOR

When it comes to using a suppressor for your firearm, the muzzle brake and the compensator are typically trumped. A silencer acts like the ultimate muzzle brake or compensator because it contains the burning gasses and muzzle blast within the body of the can. Most suppressors reduce felt recoil, muzzle climb, and most importantly noise and concussion.

The use of a muzzle brake or a compensator plays more of a role when the suppressor is not mounted and the weapon is being fired unsuppressed. If the shooter is more concerned about recoil control, the muzzle brake may be the way to go. If recoil is not a factor but controlling muzzle rise or flip is an issue, then something like a linear compensator could be the answer.

However, there is another factor to consider when shooting a suppressor and using a muzzle device where a muzzle brake may be the clear winner.

POINT OF AIM CONSIDERATIONS

Every time a suppressor is removed and reattached, the point of aim can change. In a similar manner, most muzzle brakes and compensators will not always line up or index correctly when they are moved and reattached. The ports need to be timed in position with the barrel and the shooter may need to use shims in order to properly obtain alignment, as well as torque the device to the barrel properly.

The best of both worlds is using a muzzle device as the mounting system. As we mentioned earlier, a muzzle brake mount is usually ideal for this role.

Most muzzle brakes are built with an expansion chamber that aids in their function of reducing felt recoil. In a number of instances, a properly made muzzle brake with this feature will absorb the brunt of the burning gasses behind the projectile as the bullet leaves the crown of the barrel.

Rather than hit the baffle head-on, much of this is absorbed by the muzzle brake now acting as the mount for the silencer. This prolongs the life of the suppressor and most shooters would rather replace a muzzle brake out of pocket than have to deal with the hassles of sending a suppressor back to the manufacturer for service and repair.

Another benefit with the muzzle brake mounting system is that the mount should allow the silencer to index correctly to the barrel repeatedly. This helps maintain the rifle’s point of impact so that the shooter does not have to re-zero the rifle every time the suppressor is attached. Some shooters do not need to worry about this, as they leave their silencer mounted all the time, but it can be an issue if you need to remove the silencer for transport or storage or if you move the suppressor from one host to another.

Which leads to the next benefit. A proper suppressor mounting system in the form of a quick detach or QD muzzle brake mount as opposed to a direct thread allows the shooter to have more versatility with a suppressor or silencer.

When direct thread silencers were the only option, shooters were limited in moving their suppressor from one host to another. The barrel threads had to be the same pattern as the female threads of the suppressor and that could prevent mounting a .30 caliber can with a thread pitch of 5/8 x 24” onto a .22 caliber barrel with a thread pattern of ½ x 28”. The muzzle brake mounting system changed this because now the shooter just needed to obtain an additional mount as opposed to going without a suppressor for a different host or having the rifle barrel threaded or recut to match the thread pattern of the silencer.

Our BANISH 30 GOLD is a quick detach 30 cal suppressor that comes with two muzzle brakes (1/2×28 and 5/8×24).

Thus, the shooter could mount the BANISH 30 GOLD on a rifle chambered in 300 Winchester Magnum, fire it and in less than a minute run the same BANISH 30 GOLD on a 10.5” AR-15 or any other rifle equipped with a BANISH 30 GOLD muzzle brake.

These reasons are what makes the muzzle brake a better choice, in our opinion, for shooting suppressed.

SHOOT SUPPRESSED TODAY!

If you’re ready to experience the benefits of shooting suppressed, then there’s no better time to start the buying process than right now!

At Silencer Central, we are passionate about compliance, knowledge, and community education in firearm sound suppression. With more than 15 years’ experience in the industry, we are the nation’s largest silencer dealer. We’re also the only one licensed in all 42 suppressor-legal states that can sell, process, and ship your new suppressor directly to your front door.

Like all things in life, there’s always something more to learn. Hopefully, the information in this article helped answer a lot of your questions about muzzle brakes, compensators, and silencers. Of course, it’s also possible that it brought some new questions to mind that you hadn’t thought of before. Or, we might have overlooked your question altogether. Whatever the case, we’re here to answer any and all of your questions and to help you buy your first suppressor.

SHOP SILENCERS

Many people love meat because it’s a good source of protein. Do you need ideas on the tastiest meat dish for your lunch or special event? You’ll never go wrong with well-cooked deer brisket, as it has a spicy flavor when you serve it hot.

The brisket on a deer lies at the bottom of a deer’s chest, in front of the ribcage. Removing a deer’s brisket involves removing the shoulders, backstrap, and tenderloins and cutting through the cartilage.

The rest of this article will:

• Delve deeper to explain where to find deer brisket.
• Discuss whether you must sear a deer’s brisket.
• How to remove brisket off a deer.
• Where to find the best meat on a deer.
• You’ll also learn the differences between venison backstrap and the tenderloin and what part of a deer is best for steaks.

Can You Get Brisket off a Deer?

Though tough, brisket is one of the most delicious meats in mammals, including deer. While butchering a deer to get the brisket may seem like a painstaking process, it’s achievable with the right tools and skills.

You can get brisket off a deer even though it’s smaller and leaner than a cow’s brisket. Using a sharp knife, you should remove it by cutting off the meat between the forelimbs on the deer’s chest through the cartilage. Also, cut out all fat up to the backbone.

Since a deer’s brisket is smaller than other big animals, removing it is a challenge to most people. However, when you follow the right butchering procedure, you can get the brisket off the carcass.

You can make the best fajitas, burgers, or sausages with this piece of meat or trim and grill it under higher heat.

Related Best Knife for Processing Deer | Hint: You Need Two.

Should Brisket Be Seared?

Brisket should be seared because it is essential to build up the meat’s flavor. However, you need to prepare it adequately before searing it and let it slow-cook in the oven or pan. Slow cooking makes the meat tender and easier for you to slice it afterward.

Searing venison brisket is a common preparation method in most traditional dishes as it adds flavor to the meat. Searing involves cooking the meat’s surface under high temperatures until it caramelizes, otherwise known as forming a brown crust.

Adding some oil creates contact between the brisket and the cooking surface.

• Before you sear the brisket, trim away the fat pad on the brisket’s outer surface. A large sharp knife will come in handy during this preparation step.
• Then, marinate it using salt, pepper, or other spices a day before you cook it.

Moreover, it’s important to remember that deer meat is generally tough, and storing it for a couple of days enables the aging process, which will make the meat tender, including the brisket. Do this before starting your cooking process, and you’ll have tender briskets.

After aging, trimming off fat, and marinating the deer’s brisket, you can now sear it.

If you notice that there are still some grey spots on the meat after searing, it means one side of the brisket didn’t cook well. To avoid these spots, you should ensure that you flip both sides to burn evenly.

How To Remove Deer Brisket

You might be thinking about getting a professional butcher to remove the brisket from your deer, right? However, there’s an easier way to do this in the comfort of your home.

Removing a deer’s brisket is one of the final meat-cutting steps of butchering.

After you’re through with the major butchering procedure, you can remove the brisket in a slab using the flat of your knife. Cut the meat carefully against the lower-chest region, trimming off the cod fat and tallow.

To get to the deer’s brisket, you have to butcher cut major parts. Here are the steps:

1. Cut and pull the shoulders from the torso of the deer to expose the cut zone which your knife will pass through.
2. Pull the front leg away from the torso, and with your knife’s blade parallel to the ribcage, cut the hinge area.
3. Remove the backstraps and the tenderloin, but trim away the excess fat layer first. To do this, find the hip bone and cut under this bone to the backbone on both sides. Loosen and get the meat off by ensuring that your knife is close to the bone.
4. Cut through the ribs down to the backbone. You’ll find the brisket on the outer surface of the ribs. Cut it off while your knife’s blade is against the lower-front chest region and remove any cod fat.

Check out this YouTube video that shows the process of removing a brisket:

Where Is the Best Meat on a Deer?

After butchering a deer, you’ll want to get the most out of the process. Many people go for the bigger and popular venison chunks. But where’s the best meat on a deer?

The backstraps and tenderloins are the best meat cuts of a deer. These parts are tender and will give you a succulent and delicious meal. Other preferred parts include the hindquarters, rump, and chucks.

Backstraps and tenderloins are a favorite to most venison lovers as they are tender and easy to cook. The hindquarters have a variety of uses, as you can use them as steak, in stews, kebabs, or jerky.

There are many other recipes for preparing this dish that you can try out on your own.

Is Venison Backstrap the Same As Tenderloin?

Differentiating between the venison backstrap and tenderloin can be a bit confusing.

A backstrap isn’t the same as a tenderloin. The venison backstrap is the meat along a deer’s spine on the outer part of the backbone. However, tenderloin sits beneath the spine, inside the abdominal cavity along the backbone.

Tenderloin is about 10” to 12” (25.4 to 30.48 cm) smaller than the backstrap but very delicious.

What Part of a Deer Is Best for Steaks?

Are you a steak lover? Well, you can make the best steaks from some parts of venison.

The hindquarters of the deer is best for steaks. The top and bottom rounds have extensive muscles but also have tender sections. They produce the best steaks and cuts for other dishes. Venison hindquarters are large, with cuts for various uses.

You can get the best steak from these parts in young or older deer. However, the bottom rounds are more tender than the top ones.

Final Words

You can get brisket off a deer by following the correct butchering process all by yourself. It may not be a very easy cut to make, but it’s doable. Once you have the brisket, you can leave it for a few days to age and then prepare it for cooking by marinating first.

Searing the brisket is also a great idea as it helps to lock in the flavors.

For more, check out The 5 Best Ways to Preserve Meat in the Wild.

There have been many different beaver trapping sets used throughout the years that work really well.

Most are simple and straight forward since beaver are rarely trap-shy.

Four types of traps are commonly used for trapping beavers.

They are the #3 or #4 long spring, coil springs like the Bridger #5 or the MB-750, the 330 conibear and the snare.

When setting leg holds for beaver, try to place them in the water.

Look for a spot where the beaver enters or exits, and set the trap about six inches or so deep under the water.

You may miss a few beavers setting this deep, but you will have fewer sprung traps and fewer front leg pull-outs or twist-off’s than setting just below the surface.

When a beaver swims up to the shore, many times its chest will spring a trap that’s been set too shallow.

If you set it deeper, you can get a good solid rear foot catch.

A conibear trap should be set and braced solidly so it won’t be accidentally knocked over instead of making a catch.

Guide sticks are usually a good idea to funnel the beaver through the trap.

Snares can be set under water or on dry land.

I prefer dry land sets since they always seem to get pushed out of position when I put them in the water.

On dry land a 10”-12” loop set 2” or 3” off the ground will catch most beaver.

One drawback to snares is hide damage.

I haven’t seen one yet that doesn’t leave a ring mark on the hide when you skin it.

Some fur buyers don’t seem to care but I know at least one of mine docked me for that mark.

Anchoring Your Traps

Beavers can twist off a front foot just like a muskrat, so you don’t want to stake a beaver trap down on dry land.

If you have the time and resources, you can put in a drowning wire so the beaver slides down the wire into deep water to drown.

An “L” shaped lock will keep the trap from sliding back up the line.

Use heavy gauged wire or cable that’s staked down near your set location.

Attach the other end to a heavy weight or sack of rocks.

A cement block works really well, the only disadvantage is carrying the heavy weight with you on the trapline.

Instead of cable you can also use a drowning rod which is basically a 10 foot long piece of metal rod that’s driven into the deep water on one end and staked down with a T stake on the other end near your set location.

The trap slides on the bar just like it would on the wire but the drowning rod has a few advantages.

First, you don’t have to carry the heavy cement block with you through the woods and second the rods won’t kink like the wire will, allowing you to use it time and time again.

A disadvantage would be carrying the 10 foot long piece of steel rod with you through the swamp.

Another option is to wire a leg hold to a large log that the beaver can move, kind of like using a drag in coyote trapping.

You might think the beaver would chew through the log and escape but they are usually drowned in deep water or tangled up nearby.

I have lost exactly one trap in all the years I have trapped like this.

Conibears should be wired to something solid, just in case the dying throes of the beaver move it to deep water where you wouldn’t be able to find it.

Den Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

The simplest of all is the den set.

Simply set a conibear in the den entrance (where legal) and you will most likely connect.

Most lodges in open water will have 2 entrances.

Some lodges built partially on land may only have one entrance. Place a 330 conibear at each entrance.

Beavers can den up in a river bank like muskrats or more commonly build a hut or lodge out in the pond they create.

Many huts will have areas that show where the beavers come out of the water and sit on the hut.

This is another good set location especially if you can’t locate the den entrance for some reason.

You will have a higher chance of catching kits in this type of set, but I have caught kits almost 100 yards from huts before.

Castor Mound Set – Beaver Trapping Sets

The castor mound set or scent mound set is a productive springtime set.

In the spring beavers are in a mating mood and they will scoop up mud, twigs and leaves from the bottom of the pond to build a small mound on the bank and then put their scent on it to try to attract a mate.

It should be pretty obvious where the beaver are traveling to and from these little mounds.

If the conditions are right, you can put a conibear in a run or usually set a leg hold in the slide where they exit the water.

Dam Run Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

I have read of other beaver trappers cautioning about setting dam runs for various reasons. Setting the dam run is my favorite set location.

Where I trap, this is a sure-fire place the beavers will be traveling from one pond to another.

In my area, any active beaver pond will have a well worn trail over the dam heading down into the outlet stream.

A leg hold set in the pond side water leading up to the trail is a good set. A snare suspended half way down is another.

If you can legally set a conibear on dry land, this trail is a wonderful place for it.

Any other run or trail that looks like the beaver are using is a good place for a set, either on dry ground or runs in the water.

Baited Sets – Beaver Trapping Sets

If you have a difficult time finding a good natural set location you can try baiting the beaver into your set.

A small pile of fresh partially peeled sticks from the trees the beaver are using for food may draw them into your set.

This beaver trapping set works best when food is on the scarce side or right before freeze up when the beavers are trying to stash their winter supply of food.

Overall – Beaver Trapping Sets

You can get fancy and experiment with your beaver trapping sets or you can stick with the basics and just keep it simple.

For me, the easy to construct sets listed above have worked great in a variety of different locations.

Whether you choose to use one set or try them all, I hope you enjoy beaver trapping as much as I do.

Air rifles have been around for centuries, but only recently have they become popular in the United States. There are a number of air rifle manufacturers in the country, each with their own unique products. In this blog post, we’ll take a look at some of the best air rifles made in America. Whether you’re looking for a plinking gun or a serious hunting tool, there’s sure to be an American-made air rifle that’s perfect for you.

Air rifle brands made in the USA

Benjamin

Walter Benjamin introduced the first Benjamin air gun in 1882. They were one of many high-powered rifles that came about as a result, but this particular design grew in popularity over time and led to him creating his own company called “Benjamin Gun Company.” The name has since been acquired by Crosman who only helped make it more popular than ever before! There are various styles available with updated technologies for both professionals looking for something classic or enthusiasts wanting new challenges alike – all backed up by 24/7 customer service at Crosman.

Benjamin Airgun selection includes everything from its breakthrough multi-pump pneumatics, break barrels, and even some of the best-precharged pneumatic (PCP) on today’s market (Like the Benjamin Marauder). In addition to their great rifle line up, they also offer a wide variety in pistols as well offering single shots or multiple shots at any time you please!

American Air Arms

Tom Costan had been dreaming of a company that manufactured shooting sports equipment with American labor for years when he finally got his wish. He founded American Air Arms, which specializes in high-quality PCP air rifles and shotguns made from nearly 100% domestic materials – all to ensure customers get only top-grade performance at an affordable price point

Umarex USA

Umarex USA, Inc. is a premier provider of airguns and airgun accessories to North America, designing, developing, and marketing sport shooting products under the RWS, Walther, Hämmerli, Beretta, Colt, Smith & Wesson, HK, Ruger ®, Browning, Makarov, Tactical Force, and Combat Zone brands.
Umarex USA moved into a new 117000 square foot facility in July of 2010 located at Chaffee Crossing in Fort Smith Arkansas. The new facility is home to its warehousing and distribution operations as well as its corporate offices which include marketing sales and a fully staffed customer service department that handles product refurbishment warranty work and technical advice. Future operations at this facility will also include manufacturing.
Umarex sporting guns can be purchased at many retail locations or your local firearm dealer can order them from several firearm distributors.

Airforce Air Guns

AirForce is a company that specializes in creating the most accurate and high-quality air rifles for all types of shooters. With over 20 years of experience, they have built their reputation on being dedicated to only producing American-made products with passion as well as excellence from both manufacturing facilities located around Texas (Fort Worth) and Tennessee( Minor Hill).

(For more on the best air rifles on the market, see this post)