You may think they’re just birdbrains, but wild turkeys actually see three to four times better than human beings. What’s more, they can see color as well. Their eyes not only detect a human’s slightest movement, but they see it in a vivid, three-dimensional perspective just like we do.

So, while camouflage is always crucial in hunting, for spring turkey hunting, it’s extra important to don the right type.

One camo deemed perfect for a certain environment or hunting style could be totally useless in another. The best camo pattern is going to depend on your surroundings.

Determining the Best Turkey Hunting Camo

Good turkey camouflage needs to be right for the environmental and weather condition. First, you need to know whether there’s budding green colors among the spring changes where you’re headed. As green emerges, is your camo choice reflecting that?

Then, consider what kind of layers you’ll need—base layers, warm jackets, or spring light longsleeves?

Other considerations for turkey season include a turkey vest, camo facemask decoys, and a good call. But for continued success in the field, the best turkey camouflage pattern for your needs will ensure you’re seeing success each and every turkey hunting season.

And when you’re wearing the right camo, it can all come together for an unforgettable hunting season. There are so many good camo companies to choose from, but here we’re focusing on two of the leading brands, Mossy Oak and Realtree, which have stood the test of time—not to mention a wild turkey’s eyesight.

Mossy Oak Bottomland

Perhaps Mossy Oak’s best representation comes from the turkey hunting community in the southeastern U.S., where Bottomland is still worn and revered consistently, year after year. This is where it all started for the Mossy Oak brand, with its natural bark elements and color tones that blend in seamlessly.

However, Bottomland has quickly become a staple across the camouflage market, worn as frequently with casual wear as it is in the woods. Outdoorsmen of all kinds seem to really appreciate the aesthetic this pattern has to offer, and hunters find it to be a strong cross-purpose option for when they need one pattern to get the job done in a variety of environments.

Mossy Oak Greenleaf

Greenleaf is a classic pattern that is ready made for spring turkey hunting with just the right amount of green and brown to cover you up. Honestly, Mossy Oak’s Break-Up, Break-Up Country, and Infinity patterns conceal incredibly well, but are just a bit lacking in the green department for spring gobbler hunting.

This pattern, however, does a fine job of incorporating each of those concepts and giving it just enough spring pop for when those gobblers begin strutting.

Realtree Hardwoods Green HD Camo

This super-realistic camouflage pattern is effective and versatile wherever green is visible, and that certainly means the spring turkey season in the woods. Hunters seem to be hit or miss on the high-definition camo concepts, but there’s a reason this particular pattern has made such an impact on the industry.

Additionally, if there would ever be a time you’d want your camo pattern to be as realistic as possible, it would be when you’re chasing after those keen-eyed gobblers.

Realtree Xtra Green Camo

For the serious bowhunter who doesn’t put away the archery gear just because it’s turkey hunting time, this excellent pattern will keep you out of the turkey’s eyesight long enough to raise up, pull back, and lose an arrow.

As you can see from the photo above, this particular pattern does great when a hunter is up against a tree, which is great news for all of those bowhunters who enjoy hunting from the ground.

Realtree Original Camo

For many hunters, this is where it all began in the spring. We knew our spot, scouted our bird, and were wearing this vaunted pattern when we took a bird.

Other good patterns include Realtree APG, Advantage Timber, and Advantage Classic since they have a lot of the green and brown mixes that bowhunters know and love.

READ MORE: 5 BEST TURKEY HUNTING STATES OVER THE NEXT 5 YEARS

Finding the right air hose for your air compressor or other air tool can be challenging. Because there are so many choices on the market today, it can be difficult to know which ones are best for you and your needs. In order to narrow things down, we have prepared a handy guide to two of the most common and highly recommended air hose materials: PVC and Rubber.

Below, we delve into the advantages and disadvantages each type brings to the table, what you should be looking for in an air hose, and hopefully you can end this article with a much clearer perspective as to which one you want to invest in.

What Is The Best Air Hose For Me?

Since an air hose can be used for multiple types of tools and tasks, you want to choose one that is versatile, durable, and made to last so that you can make the most out of your purchase. In relation to that, these 5 factors are what you should consider when looking for an air hose that is perfect for your personal needs and activities.

Length Of Hose

Standard sized air hoses are usually offered at 25 feet, 50 feet, and 100 feet. Air hoses that come in longer lengths result in lesser control but not enough to deem it ineffective. The length of the hose matters since this can affect how you can utilize it. For instance, if you will need the hose while moving from station to station, you may require one of longer length to allow greater mobility.

However, if you will just be working in one area, keeping a short hose may be easier in terms of moving around and also in terms of storage.

Diameter Of Hose

Most air hoses come in either one of two diameters, namely ¼” (6.33 mm) and 3/8” (9.5mm). The wider the diameter, the more compressed air it can hold, which allows for more strength. However, in order to maximize it, you will need to have a sizable compressor.

The narrow diameter is better for tasks that do not need as much fuel, such as when you are pumping a tire, air bed, or inflatable pool.

Weight Of Hose

To determine if you need a lighter or a heavier hose, you will first need to establish your main purpose for purchasing one. If your activities revolve around operating in one place, then heavier hoses can be more beneficial since they are less likely to kink. However, if you will need to move around often, a lighter hose may be better suited. Just keep in mind that these are more susceptible to kinking, so you will need to take more precaution when storing them after every use.

Who Manufactured The Hose

An air hose is not necessarily a household tool that you want to repurchase every now and then. To guarantee a longer lifespan, we highly suggest purchasing only from trusted companies with great warranties and even better customer support. Some of the best air hose manufacturers today are:

• FlexZilla
• Amflo
• Hitachi
• TekTon
• Goodyear

Material Of Hose

Air hoses also come in a variety of materials, with the two most common ones being PVC and rubber. To better understand which one of the leading materials is best for you, we put a detailed list of their benefits and disadvantages up against one another in the section below.

What is the better air hose: rubber or PVC

Below we discuss what exactly makes up each material and where do they function best?

PVC Air Hose

PVC stands for PolyVinyl Chloride, and is the 3rd most widely used plastic rubber across the globe. It can be used in a variety of materials – from tubing, wires, signs, flooring, and yes, hoses!

Apart from its versatility, another reason that PVC is so common is because of its affordability. It is also very lightweight, portable, and easy to handle. However, we do not suggest using the in colder climates or the winter season because they are prone to freezing up. Aside from that, another disadvantage is that they are susceptible to kinking quickly.

Rubber Air Hose

Rubber is made of natural material as it is extracted from the rubber plant. It starts off as a white, dense, and somewhat gooey liquid, which is then taken to manufacturers and turned into the many rubberized products you see today.

Just like PVC, rubber can also be used in a wide range of things, such as tires of vehicles, tubes, household items, and much more. Rubber is incredibly durable and can last a long time, but it does not come cheap.

Rubber air hoses are quite heavy, but they are very resilient, sturdy, and well worth the investment due to its long lifespan. Because of how much they weigh, they are best used for static workstations such as in a garage or at a workshop. They are also fairly simple to coil up and store away, with little to no risk of kink.

What are other air hose materials to consider?

While rubber and PVC hoses are the most common and widely available air hoses today, they are not the only ones on the market. You may also opt to purchase a Polyurethane Air Hose or a Hybrid Air Hose instead.

Polyurethane Air Hose

Air hoses made of polyurethane are very lightweight and do very well in extreme temperatures. They are also highly resistant to abrasive wear, tearing, or puncturing. Moreover air hoses made of polyurethane are highly flexible and smooth, which allows them to easily glide across varying surfaces. One flaw it may have is that it is more susceptible to kinking when compared to the more robust rubber air hose.

Hybrid Air Hose

As its name suggests, hybrid air hoses are made from a mix of material, namely PVC, polyurethane, and rubber. It was specifically designed to give you the best of all the materials by merging their positive features such as its resiliency against kinking. However, it does lack quite a bit in durability when compared to the pure rubber hoses, and are more likely to kink in the long run.

What Factors Should I Look For in An Air Hose?

The length, diameter, manufacturer, material, and weight of the hose are important when determining which hose is best for your specific activities and needs. However, the 5 additional factors below should also be weighed in as it can affect the overall quality of the hose you choose.

Coiling Capabilities

Air hoses usually either coil in a standard method or in a recoil method. With standard, the hose would lie flat without any bends, which makes them a breeze to unroll. Recoils, however, have small twists within the structure to make them recoil backwards once you let go.

Connections

It is important to consider the right sized connector that is also a quick release for your own set of tools. We recommend getting brass connectors as these are much more resistant compared to aluminum and are also resistant to corroding.

Kink Resistance

Similar to how you would weigh out garden hoses, consider the kink resistance of your air hoses as well. Investing in material that is less likely to kink can go a long way and prevent any disruption in your work.

Pressure Rating

All air hoses have their own maximum pressure rating, which is indicated by PSI (pounds per square inch). You must first determine how much pressure you would need for your tasks and then find a hose that is capable of handling it. Hoses with higher pressure ratings are usually only needed in much tougher jobs such as inflating truck tires.

Temperature Compatibility

It is important to find a hose that would not deteriorate or lessen in efficiency when the temperature shifts. PVC air hoses have a harder time in cold temperatures because it reduces their flexibility. A rubber hose keeps a stable flexibility level even in freezing temperatures, so does polyurethane air hoses and hybrid variants.

You’re All Set!

Knowing what to look for in an air hose can help you in making a more informed decision, and take home a hose you can use for many years to come.

If you are looking for other gardening equipment, check our best selling collections below:

Yard Butler Hose Reels

Yard Butler Hose Reel Carts

Yard Butler Hose Hangers

Yard Butler Irrigation Tools

Bald eagles are incredibly strong birds and highly-skilled flyers. They are often reported as picking up cats and dogs before swooping off with them, but is it true?

An eagle would struggle to pick up and fly away with a cat, but they may attack small cats and kittens.

Eagles primarily feed on fish, and experts estimate that they can carry fish weighing approximately 4-5 pounds. An average domesticated cat weighs between 8 and 10 pounds, which puts it way beyond the carrying capacity of an eagle. In fact, by the time a kitten reaches approximately 4 months old, it will weigh about 4 or 5 pounds, so by the time your kitten leaves the house, it is likely to be too big for an eagle to carry off.

If you are concerned, you can keep your cat indoors, where it is safe from any natural predator, and you can take steps to try and scare away eagles and other birds of prey.

About the Bald Eagle

The bald eagle is a formidable bird. An adult has a wing of approximately 7 feet and one can weigh up to 14 pounds. The bird can fly at speeds of nearly 100 mph when diving, and its size and its white head and tail mean that it is difficult to miss when one of these birds swoops.

You are most likely to see a bald eagle swoop around water because its preferred food is fish. They also eat geese, gulls, and other smaller birds. Very rarely, they will dine on rabbits and small mammals, and more rarely, if at all, they may pick up and fly away with a kitten.

Because of the weight of an adult cat, an eagle will not be able to pick up an adult cat and fly away with it. Most experts agree that the maximum amount of weight that even the strongest bald eagle could lift would be 4 to 5 pounds, and an average adult cat weighs twice this, while some giant breeds can weigh three times as much.

How to Protect Your Cat From Eagles

There are some anecdotal reports of eagles attempting to attack small cats. If you are concerned about this happening, there are some ways that you can help protect your cat.

The simplest method is to keep your cat indoors. Eagles are diurnal, which means that they hunt during the day, so keeping your cat in at night will not keep them free from this winged threat.

Consider installing a pen or exercise run. These prevent your cat from getting out and predators from getting in, while still offering your cat some outdoor space. They can be built onto the back of your property and connected to your home using a standard cat door so that your feline can get in and out whenever they want.

Other Pets at Risk

Rabbits can be at risk of eagle attacks. Wild rabbits are considered tricky prey for an eagle, but they do occasionally get taken. So, if you do have domestic rabbits, ensure that they are kept in a hutch or cage at night, to prevent them from being picked up and carried away.

Summary

The bald eagle is a formidable bird that is capable of flying at great speeds. It has excellent eyesight and is strong. However, the bird usually eats fish and will very rarely eat anything larger than a rodent or very occasionally a small rabbit. Cats, especially adult cats, are considered too large to be under threat from eagles, except in very rare circumstances.

Related Reads:

• Do Bears Attack and Eat Cats?
• Do Snakes Attack and Eat Cats?
• How To Protect Your Cat from Coyotes

Featured Image Credit: MICHOFF from Pixabay

I’ve often said that if I could forage only one wild food, it would have to be ramps. These wild leeks are delectable, and I love them sautéed, in ramp soup, in frittata, and in this delicious wild ramp salt.

Identifying Ramps

Ramps, also known as wild leeks (Allium tricoccum), are found in the eastern U.S. I generally find them on north facing slopes under deciduous trees in late April or early May.

Each ramp plant has 2 – 3 broad leaves with entire (smooth) margins. The bulbs are white, and the stems may be white or burgundy. One of the most important identifying characteristics of the ramp is its garlic aroma. Crush a leaf; if you don’t smell garlic, you don’t have ramps.

Beware of the lily-of-the-valley, a poisonous look-alike.

Foraging Ramps

Unfortunately, ramps are among the most controversial of all foraged delights. Post an article on social media about ramps, and you’re sure to get trashed, one way or another.

There are those who are completely against any harvesting of ramps, and others who insist that only the leaf, and not the bulb should be harvested. I understand. Big city restaurants pay top dollar for ramps, and consequently they are over-harvested.

My advice is to harvest based on your location, and the number of ramps growing. Never take more than you can use, leave some for others, and most importantly make sure the patch from which you are harvesting is treated with respect so that the ramps can reproduce and provide for others for generations to come.

That said, I do personally harvest both the bulb and leaf. Where I harvest, there are acres and acres of wild ramps, and we take very few. If ramps are scarce in your area, don’t harvest at all. If you find a nice patch, but it’s the only patch around, then I suggest that you only harvest one leaf from each plant and leave plenty so that the patch can continue to reproduce.

Another important tip for harvesting is to harvest in the middle of the patch where the ramps are crowded. Leave the ramps at the edges of the patch alone, so that they can continue to spread out.

And I also always scrub my digging tool before heading into the woods so that I don’t bring any disease from my garden into the woods. I then carefully dig a bulb here, and a bulb there, being careful to replace any displaced soil. After leaving the patch, no one should be able to tell that you were there.

Lastly, some foragers advise harvesting the ramps by cutting just above the roots. The thinking is that you still get the bulb, but leave the roots to grow again. I did practice this method for a year or two, but it was suggested to me that I was potentially introducing disease into the patch with this method and so I no longer harvest this way.

Wild Ramp Salt

Wild ramp salt may used as a finishing salt to add extra flavor to any savory dish, or as a rub for meat. To make, first dehydrate your washed ramp leaves by placing them in a dehydrator in a single layer at 100°F for 4 – 6 hours until brittle. (I use an Excalibur dehydrator).

Then powder them in a blender (I use a bullet blender), coffee grinder, or mortar and pestle.

Then simply mix 2 parts ramp powder to 1 part fine sea salt.

More Posts on Foraging You’ll Love

Ramps and Potato Soup

Ramps and Garlic Mustard Frittata

Oven Roasted Potatoes on a Bed of Pine

Homemade Blueberry Mead

Low-Sugar Elderberry Jelly

Dandelion Oil Lotion Bars

5 Common Plants to Forage for Food and Home Remedies

Crappie fishing is a popular pastime for many anglers since the fish are very easy to catch and they put up a good fight when caught, making the process very fun.

When it comes to selecting the pound test for the fishing line when catching crappie, though, there appears to be a bit of a confusion.

This is why I decided to write this post, which answers the question “What pound test fishing line is best for crappie?” and also provides a few recommendations that might make your life easier.

What Pound Test Line Should I Use for Crappie?

There appears to be a great deal of uncertainty over which pound test line is best for crappie fishing.

Because of their diminutive size, crappies don’t put up much of a fight when caught, making them a pleasure to land.

As a bonus, they are quite small, making them a great option for fishers who would rather avoid catching monster fish and enjoy a good time catching smaller fish.

Thus, when angling for crappie, I advise using a line with a 4 pound test. The thin and light nature of this line makes it easier to cast and less likely to startle the fish.

You could use a 6-pound-test line, but if the crappie can see it, they’ll probably notice the line and swim on.

Types of Fishing Lines for Crappie Fishing

Here are some of the most frequent fishing lines followed by an analysis on whether they are good or bad for catching crappie.

Monofilament

All of the material for a monofilament fishing line comes from a single filament. Nylon is the material of choice, however polyethylene and fluorocarbon are occasionally used to compose this fishing line as well.

The durability and tensile strength of monofilament fishing lines make them versatile and useful for fishing of all kinds. This is why they are among the most widely used fishing lines.

Why Is Monofilament Good for Crappie Fishing?

Crappie are easily spooked, so it’s important to use a line that won’t drive them away.

Monofilament’s low visibility encourages Crappie to bite, and the line’s strength improves your chances of landing the fish once they do.

This line’s already impressive strength and durability make it ideal for catching crappie, but its flexibility makes it even much more effective.

Why Aren’t Monofilament Lines Good for Crappie Fishing?

Although monofilament fishing lines are widely used due to their inexpensive price and adaptability, they have a reputation for breaking easily.

Due to their construction from a single strand of material, monofilament lines break easily when subjected to tension.

This is especially true of 4-pound lines, which are usually utilized to catch crappie, see what I mean?

Choosing a good quality monofilament fishing line should solve this issue, though.

Fluorocarbon

Fishing line manufactured from fluorocarbon resin is known as fluorocarbon fishing line. Fishing enthusiasts are increasingly adopting this material because of its many advantages over more conventional options like nylon.

Fluorocarbon lines are not only practically invisible underwater, but also substantially more abrasion resistant than other line, making them less likely to fracture under the force of crappie battling.

Why Is Fluorocarbon Good for Crappie Fishing?

Invisible in water is one of fluorocarbon’s most useful properties. Because the line won’t spook the crappie as easily, it’s great for fishing.

In addition, unlike certain other fishing lines, fluorocarbon can withstand the sun’s ultraviolet rays for extended periods of time without deteriorating.

Finally, fluorocarbon absorbs less water, making it simpler to handle and cast, which is critical for improving the fishing experience.

Why Aren’t Fluorocarbon Lines Good for Crappie Fishing?

I can’t think of any disadvantages to using fluorocarbon line to catch crappie.

Braid Line

Braided fishing line is one variety that is made up of multiple strands of material that are woven together (nylon, polyethylene, etc.).

Braided fishing lines are widely used because they are extremely durable and abrasion-resistant, and they flex very little. This allows for greater sensitivity and feel when casting.

Why Is Braid Line Good for Crappie Fishing?

I would use a braid line to capture crappie for a number of reasons.

Braided line can take on larger fish and heavier weights because of its superior strength.

Second, bites from even the smallest fish may be felt when using braided line because of its extreme sensitivity and lack of elasticity compared to other lines. This will help you catch the most crappie fish possible.

Third, this line is one of the best if you care about underwater visibility, as its smaller diameter belies its greater strength compared to other fishing lines.

Why Aren’t Braid Line Good for Crappie Fishing?

Because to the small diameter of the line, it is readily frayed or broken when exposed to the sharp teeth of a fish.

Second, braid line has very little elasticity, which can make setting the hook when a fish bites difficult.

Frequently Asked Questions

Here are some of the most frequent questions that always pop out when asking about fishing lines, pound test and catching crappie.

Why do people use yellow line for crappie?

Aside from the 4 to 6 pound test, visibility is an important thing to consider when selecting a crappie fishing line.

A yellow fishing line is a wonderful choice for fisherman that keep a close check on their line. Yellow is easily visible from above, making it simple to notice even the smallest bite.

The yellow color, however, is easily visible to fish swimming underneath. Crappie are more easily spooked by yellow lines than by lines of any other color.

Can crappie see your line?

Yes, Crappie have good eyesight and are very sensitive to movement. This means that if your line is in their line of sight, they will almost certainly notice it.

Crappie are also extremely sensitive to light and dark contrast. As a result, if your line is darker than the water surrounding it, the fish will most likely notice it.

Most backyards in North America have only one type of squirrel that you see regularly.

In northern and eastern regions, the two most common types are red and gray squirrels.

But if you’ve ever seen these two squirrels side-by-side then you know they’re really quite different animals! Not just in terms of size & appearance, but also in their behavior, habitat & even their diet.

So today let’s explore 8 key differences between red and gray squirrels in order to gain deeper insight about our backyard tree dwelling friends.

What’s the difference between red & gray squirrels?

To start off, take a look at this side-by-side comparison of a red squirrel on the left, and a gray squirrel on the right.

Let’s break down some things to notice about these two squirrels pictured above:

1. Color

On the surface, perhaps the most obvious difference between red and gray squirrels is their color.

Generally, red squirrels will all have this same reddish brown color shown above with very little variation. Red squirrels are a species of arboreal (tree dwelling) rodent that all have fur looking more or less identical to the photo above.

However it’s important to realize that gray squirrels are NOT always gray.

One of the big differences in gray squirrels from red squirrels is that they come in many different colors including gray, black & even shades of blond.

It’s important to realize these color variations are all part of the same species of squirrel, and can even be brothers and sisters in the same family.

This means color can be a good way to identify squirrels, but only if you remember that gray squirrel communities are multi-colored.

The basic idea is:

• Red squirrels are always red.
• Any other color is a gray squirrel (or possibly fox squirrel in overlapping ranges).

In most cases these rules will work, however, New York city is known to have a population of cinnamon colored gray squirrels, which could be confused with red squirrels if you don’t know the other differences.

So while color can be useful, it’s actually not the best way to identify red and gray squirrels in all cases.

So what’s the best way to identify them?

2. Size

In general, the best way to identify gray squirrels from red squirrels is by their size difference.

Gray squirrels are significantly larger than red squirrels. According to most sources, gray squirrels weigh in at a range of 400-600 grams, which is almost twice the size of the 250-330 gram red squirrels.

This size difference is very obvious just by looking at them, and is typically the fastest & most accurate way to identify squirrels in actual practice.

If you’re used to watching gray squirrels and then you suddenly see a red squirrel, their small size will really stand out to you.

Side note: If you live further south, it’s also important to know whether your area has fox squirrels which are even bigger than gray squirrels, and sometimes even interbreed with their populations.

3. Ear Tufts

Another interesting clue to help with squirrel identification is that red squirrels grow little tufts of hair on their ears during winter.

Ear tufts are a more subtle characteristic than the overall size & color, but it still gives us a bit more insight into their character.

In actual practice, you really don’t need to look at squirrels this closely to tell them apart but it’s a funny quirk and something to look for during the cold season.

4. Social Behavior: Communal vs Solitary Squirrels

A much deeper level of knowledge about squirrels comes when you go beyond identification and begin to study their behavior.

Here the differences become even more obvious because red and gray squirrels have vastly different approaches to how they interact socially with other squirrels.

So how do red & gray squirrels differ in terms of their behavior?

Gray Squirrels Are Communal Squirrels

Gray squirrels are generally considered to be much more community oriented than red squirrels.

It’s extremely common to see groups of gray squirrels all hanging out peacefully together in the same area. They share territories, food and sometimes even sleep together.

In many ways, this is really the biggest of all the differences between red and gray squirrels because red squirrels are not communally oriented at all.

Red Squirrels Are Territorial/Solitary Squirrels

Red squirrels in sharp contrast to gray squirrels are some of the most aggressively territorial animals on the planet.

They actively defend their territories, food caches & nest sites with a wide variety of loud vocalizations and visual displays of aggression.

This aggression begins quite early after the baby squirrels are born, and continues for the rest of their life. In this sense, red and gray squirrels really are polar opposites.

5. Habitat

Aside from some occasional overlap at the edges of different habitat types, gray squirrels and red squirrels also tend to occupy very different niches in their habitat.

Gray squirrels thrive in urban & suburban environments and typically prefer forests dominated by deciduous trees (like the oak & beech forests we discussed in a different article on mast trees).

Red squirrels tend to become dominant in more remote forested habitats that include a lot of coniferous trees such as spruce and fir.

For this reason, many people who live in cities have never actually seen a red squirrel, and might not even realize they exist in your area.

The quintessential “squirrel on a power line” is a gray squirrel in almost every case. In all my years living close to red squirrels I’ve only ever seen one use the power lines to move around.

6. Diet

The result (or perhaps the cause of their habitat differences) is that despite being very closely related species in the squirrel family, red and gray squirrels eat almost completely different diets.

Gray squirrels eat a lot of large fleshy deciduous nuts like acorns & walnuts, while red squirrels tend to horde the cones of coniferous trees like spruce and feast on the tiny seeds.

Both squirrels also take advantage opportunistically of hunting insects (and even eating bird eggs!) however the exact species they hunt will vary depend on the ecology of their chosen forest type.

I covered what squirrels eat in much more detail in another article.

7. Calls & Vocalizations

Red and gray squirrels each make their own distinct set of calls & vocalizations which can be used for identification and behavior interpretation.

Grey squirrels who are upset will make a raspy bark when predators are nearby. In some cases it sounds a lot like a small dog barking.

In the following video clip you’ll hear some gray squirrel barking and related alarm calls from nearby robins and other smaller birds.

The red squirrel sound is a combination of high pitched “TIP” sounds mixed with lower range “CHUCK” calls that are used in varying combinations for different situations ranging from predator alarms to territorial situations:

Because red squirrels are so territorial, overall they tend to make a lot more noise than gray squirrels.

Red squirrels also make a loud trilling scream and are generally make a lot more noise than gray squirrels who are less easily offended. You can hear this rattling “scream” call at the 20 second mark in the following clip:

I’ve written a lot more on this topic, so if you want to explore the nuances of squirrel language, go read up about why squirrels chatter and scream so much.

8. Interactions Between Red & Gray Squirrels

Another way to gain insight about these two common messengers of the forest is to look at how they interact where territories overlap.

If you ever find yourself lucky enough to live in a place that has both red squirrels and gray squirrels living in close proximity, this is an amazing opportunity to learn and study their differences.

This is where a lot of interesting questions come up to truly define the boundaries of what it means to be a red squirrel or gray squirrel including their breeding, cooperation and competition.

Can Red Squirrels And Gray Squirrels Interbreed?

Because these are two different species, red squirrels cannot interbreed with gray squirrels.

Even gray squirrels who have a reddish color to their fur are born from two gray squirrel parents. When you see these color variations, remember that size is still the key identification characteristic as explained above in point #2.

Why Are Some Squirrels Red/Black/Gray/Blond?

So if they can’t interbreed, then why are all these different color squirrels living together?

Why can a single family of squirrels include both gray, black and possibly even other colors of squirrels?

Well, this is very similar to genetic variation in red foxes which sometimes makes them black.

It’s the same as how human children can have different colored eyes or hair than their parents. It has to do with the genetic combinations and recessive genes.

As a ridiculous example, it’s a bit similar to why red hair in humans cannot be caused by having an orangutan for a parent… because humans cannot mate with orangutans.

Do Gray Squirrels And Red Squirrels Get Along?

In most cases, red and gray squirrels have such distinct niches in the forest that their territories and trails almost never overlap.

For this reason, even if you do see red and gray squirrels nearby in the same area, they typically co-exist quite peacefully.

It’s not so much that they get along, as much as they don’t have any good reason to get in each other’s way.

Do Red And Gray Squirrels Compete?

In general – red and gray squirrels do not directly compete because they occupy different habitat niches.

Red squirrels are more dominant in coniferous forests, while gray squirrels are more dominant in deciduous forests and cities.

In mixed forests, their territories can occasionally overlap, however, even in these situations they tend to use different trails and different food sources so it’s rare for this to cause problems.

Why Do Red Squirrels Chase Gray Squirrels?

In cases where their activity does overlap, typically red squirrels will be the more aggressive and likely to chase the gray squirrels.

Considering that they’re so much smaller, this can be a funny surprise to see the red squirrels acting aggressively towards gray squirrels. But it really just comes down to the fact that red squirrels are so much more territorial.

If you spend a lot of time in mixed or coniferous forests with high red squirrel populations then you know what I’m talking about. You’ve probably been yelled at by a squirrel or two in your days!

When it comes down to it, gray squirrels and red squirrels really aren’t competing over food, nesting sites or mates, so there’s no reason for them to be territorial other than the fact that red squirrels are very aggressive towards pretty much everything.

Go Look For These Differences Yourself!

So now all you have to do is go watch your local squirrels for yourself.

Making your own observations is really what brings the magic of nature to life.

• How many of these squirrel differences can you observe in your own backyard?
• Are you seeing signs of territorial or communal squirrel behavior?
• What else do you notice about your local gray and red squirrels?

Let me know what you discover out there, and happy squirrel watching!

RANDY BROWN has been fascinated with blackmouth curs ever since he read Fred Gipson’s Old Yeller as a kid. As he grew up and got into hog hunting, that fascination became an absolute passion. Brown owns 17 of these curs—“yellow dogs,” as he calls them—and four American bulldogs for chasing wild pigs near his home in central Alabama with his best hunting buddy of 25 years, Brian Miller. It took Brown a decade of researching, testing, and breeding dogs before he was able to assemble a pack that perfectly fits his style of pig hunting. Brown and Miller hunt by rigging—which means they have two of their best scenting dogs ride on the front of their truck (the rig) while they drive down trails. When the dogs catch the scent of a pig, they start barking, and the hunters cut them loose. Then the chase begins.

Rigging is a common practice among Western houndsmen who target bears and mountain lions, but it’s unusual in the South to use hog dogs to hunt this way, Brown says. Blackmouth curs are athletic, protective dogs that are eager to please and extremely loyal. Brown makes the most of those personality traits. If his dogs can’t strike a pig from the truck, he’ll cast them in a 300-yard loop, and then they’ll come back—unlike some big-running hounds that could be gone for the whole morning.

“There are so many pigs down here, if I can’t find one in a spot, I’ll just pick up and move to another spot,” Brown says. “I want to be chasing hogs. I don’t want to be chasing after my dogs [trying to get them back] all day.”

But once the curs get on a hog’s scent, they stick to it—especially JJ, the lead dog, Brown says.

“You can watch him on the GPS. When he loses a track, he’ll make circles until he picks it up again. Then he’ll shoot out of there on a straight line, and you know he’s back on that hog,” Brown says.

Once the curs have a hog bayed, Brown and Miller rush to the spot with their catch dogs—two massive American bulldogs. The breed is a descendant of the now extinct Old English bulldog, which was brought to the States by working-class immigrants hundreds of years ago. Ever since then, the American bulldog has been catching feral pigs for Southerners and guarding their farms.

During that time, the role of the catch dog has not changed. His life’s work is to bite the pig and hold it so his hunters can move in and kill it with a knife to the heart, an adrenaline-kick ending to a wild chase through the backwoods.

“I just love the thrill of watching the dogs I’ve trained,” Brown says. “No two hunts are ever the same. You never know what’s going to happen.”

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New foragers sometimes worry about telling the difference between highly sought-after ramps (wild leeks) and their poisonous look-alikes, Lily-of-the-valley. It’s always wise to be leery when you’re new to foraging, but once you know what to look for you don’t need to worry. There are quite a few ways to accurately tell the difference between the two plants.

Ramps (ramsons in the UK) are alliums, members of the onion family. Their leaves taste like a milder mixture of garlic and onion, and once cooked they have the texture of spinach. They have a short season and are difficult to cultivate, which means that they fetch top dollar at farmers’ markets — up to $20 a pound.

In contrast, Lily-of-the-valley is an imported flower that has invasive habits and contains cardiac glycosides that affect the body in a similar manner to foxglove (digitalis). Symptoms of ingesting it include flushed skin, nausea, dizziness, headache, weakness, hallucinations and changes in heart rate. In extreme cases, it can lead to death. Most cases of poisoning by Lily-of-the-valley result from children eating the berries that occur later in the season, but occasionally there are cases of poisoning where people mistakenly cook with them, thinking they are ramps.

The two plants look similar, but there are good ways to tell them apart. You can see some differences right away and there are even more ways to be sure you’re picking ramps and not lily-of-the-valley.

Appearance:

• Look at the roots. Ramps emerge from a bulb and have rootlets at the very end of it. Lily-of-the-valley do not have bulbs but have longer roots with rootlets along the length.
• Look at the leaves. Ramps have one or two leaves that emerge separately from the ground, each on its own stem. Lily-of-the-valley has a stem that appears and multiple leaves that are whorled around the center.
• Look at the flowers. Ramps do not have a flower stem until later in the season. The lily-of-the-valley flower stem appears almost as soon as the leaves unfold. Once the flowers emerge (generally after the season for harvesting ramps), the flowers look very different. Ramp flowers are small daisy-like clusters with green centers at the end of a stalk, while Lily-of-the-valley have many small bell-shaped flowers that hang down from the length of the stalk.

Location:

• Look at the site. Ramps grow on the floor of moist, open woodlands. Lily-of-the-valley is a domestic plant which likes the same soil, but is usually found on old farm sites and around homes.

Season:

• Pay attention to the time of year. Ramps emerge earlier in the year. They typically come up when Lily-of-the-valley are just breaking the ground in very early spring.

Scent:

• Smell it. Smell is the easiest identifier by far. Tear the leaf — ramps smell very strongly of onion and garlic. Lily-of-the-valley has no smell when the leaves are torn.

It’s a good idea to locate and dig up a lily-of-the-valley so you can see and smell the differences for yourself. The best way is to forage with someone who has experience with ramps your first time out. That said, if you use these identifiers it is easy to tell the difference. Be sure to never eat anything that you are not sure about, however.

Ramps are extremely slow to reproduce, which means it’s important to forage for them responsibly. In some parts of the country they are over-harvested and it is illegal to harvest them in parts of Canada. Be sure to only harvest the leaves and not the bulbs, so the plants survive. Even then, harvest only a small percent of the leaves you find. This can help ensure that the stand can continue on for many years.

Once you have your ramps, here are wonderful ways to cook with them.

Do deer sit? This is a question that I get asked a lot, and unfortunately, there is no easy answer. While we do know that deer are capable of sitting down, whether or not they actually do so in the wild is another story.

No, deer do not sit usually. They are constantly moving and searching for food unless there are some conditions.There have been a few studies conducted on captive deer to try and answer this question, but since deer in the wild behave differently than those in captivity, it’s hard to say for sure if the results would be the same.

In one study, only 1 out of 8 captive deer were observed sitting down, while another study found that 3 out of 10 captive deer sat down at least once. So what does this tell us? Well, it’s possible that deer do sit down occasionally in the wild, but it’s certainly not something that they do often. If you’re ever lucky enough to see a wild deer sitting down, you can consider yourself quite fortunate!

How long can a deer sit in the woods and not spoil?

Do Deer Sit Like Dogs?

Do Deer Sit Like Dogs? No, deer do not sit like dogs. In fact, deer rarely sit down at all! Deer are constantly on the move, grazing on vegetation or searching for mates. When they do take a break, deer usually stand up or lie down. So why don’t deer sit like dogs? There are a few reasons why deer don’t sit down. First of all, their legs are designed for standing and running, not sitting. Secondly, sitting would make them an easy target for predators. And finally, since they graze on vegetation instead of eating from a bowl, they need to be constantly moving to find food. So next time you see a deer, don’t expect it to be lounging around like your dog!

Do Deer Sleep in the Same Place?

Whether or not deer sleep in the same place every night depends on a few factors, including the season, the animal’s age, and availability of food and water. In general, however, deer are creatures of habit and will often return to the same bedding area night after night. During the winter months when food is scarce and temperatures are cold, deer will typically find a spot that offers some shelter from the elements and hunker down for long periods of time. This might be in a thicket of brush or under a tree canopy. The goal is to conserve energy and stay warm. As spring arrives and days become longer, bucks will start to spend more time on their feet as they search for does in heat. At this time of year, it’s not uncommon for bucks to travel several miles each day in their quest to mate. Consequently, they may not bed down in the same spot every night. Once mating season is over and does are pregnant, they too will start to settle into specific areas where they can raise their fawns without too much disturbance from other animals or humans. Once again, these spots might change from year to year depending on conditions such as predator pressure or availability of food sources.

Where Do Deer Sleep?

Deer are creatures of habit and will often sleep in the same spot day after day. However, they will also switch up their sleeping location depending on the time of year and their current needs. In the summertime, deer will typically bed down in cooler, shaded areas to escape the heat of the day. During the fall and winter, they’ll move to lower-lying areas that offer more protection from the elements. And during mating season, bucks will spend most nights away from does in order to avoid getting caught by a rival suitor. No matter where they lay their head down for the night, deer always choose an area with good visibility so they can keep an eye out for predators.

Where Do Deer Sleep When It Rains

When it rains, deer tend to sleep in covered areas such as under trees or bushes. They will also seek out shelters such as caves or hollow logs. If there is no shelter available, deer will sometimes bed down in low-lying areas such as ditches or depressions in the ground. Deer do not like to get wet and will try to avoid open areas where they are exposed to the rain.

Do Deer Sleep Together

Do deer sleep together? The answer is yes, they do! In the wild, deer will often bed down in close proximity to each other for warmth and protection. This behavior is also seen in captive herds of deer, where they will huddle together in their enclosure. Deer are very social animals and enjoy being in close contact with others. When they sleep, they often do so lying next to each other or touching one another. This helps them stay warm and feels good for them physically. It’s also a way for them to bond with each other and build trust within the herd.

Do Deer Lay down During the Day?

While deer are generally nocturnal creatures, they will sometimes lay down during the day. This is usually done in areas where they feel safe and secure, such as in a thicket or underbrush. If you see a deer lying down during the day, it’s likely that it’s just taking a nap.

What Does It Mean When Deer are Lying Down?

There are a few different reasons why deer might lie down. The most common reason is that they are resting or sleeping. Deer are generally very active during the day and will spend a lot of time grazing and moving around. At night, they will often lie down in order to rest and conserve energy. Another reason why deer might lie down is because they are sick or injured. If a deer is lying down and not moving around much, it could be an indication that something is wrong. If you see a deer lying down in the middle of the day, it’s worth taking a closer look to see if the animal appears to be healthy or not. Finally, deer will sometimes lie down when they are giving birth. This usually happens at night or early in the morning, and the mother deer will often stay close to her offspring until they are able to stand up and walk on their own. So, if you see a deer lying down, there’s no need to worry! In most cases, the animal is simply taking a break from all its daily activities.

How Long Can a Deer Sit in the Woods And Not Spoil?

Assuming you are referring to deer meat: The length of time that deer meat can sit in the woods without spoiling depends on a number of factors, including temperature, humidity, and exposure to insects. In general, however, raw deer meat can last for up to two days in moderate temperatures (between 32-40 degrees Fahrenheit) without spoilage. If the temperature is warmer than this range, the meat will spoil more quickly; if it is cooler, the meat will last longer. Similarly, high humidity levels can cause the meat to spoil more quickly, while low humidity levels will slow down the process of spoiling. Finally, exposure to insects can also cause the meat to spoil more quickly.

Why Would a Deer Be Alone?

There are many reasons why deer might be alone. For example, the deer could be a young fawn that has become separated from its mother. Or, the deer could be an adult male that is not part of a herd. Finally, the deer could be sick or injured, and unable to keep up with the rest of the herd. Whatever the reason, it is not unusual to see a deer by itself.

Conclusion

Deer are known to be social creatures, often seen grazing in herds. But did you know that deer will also sit down like we do? Yes, deer will actually sit down on their haunches just like people! There are a few reasons why deer might sit. For one, it could be a way to rest and digest their food. Deer are constantly eating grasses and other plants, so sitting down gives their stomachs a break. Additionally, sitting allows deer to keep an eye out for predators. By sitting up high, they can scan the area for any potential threats. So next time you see a deer in your yard, don’t be surprised if it plops down on its haunches and takes a seat!

Ah, the sizzle of a perfectly seared steak, the juicy tenderness of a succulent chicken breast, or the mouthwatering aroma of a slow-roasted pork shoulder – there’s nothing quite like the satisfaction of a well-cooked piece of meat.

But as any seasoned chef will tell you, achieving that perfect balance of flavor, texture, and safety is all about cooking meat to the correct internal temperature. Like any other meat, venison brats has to be cooked to the proper temperature in order to be both delicious and safe to eat.

What Is The Right Internal Temperature For Venison Brats?

The right internal temperature for venison brats is 155°F (68.3°C). The temperature should be taken with a food thermometer in the thickest part of the meat. It is important to note that the temperature should be taken in the center of the meat, not the edges.

How To Cook Venison Brats To The Right Internal Temperature

The best way to ensure that venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature is to use a thermometer. However, a typical method would be to cook it at a temperature of 180°F (82.2°C) for about 20 minutes.

It is also important to keep in mind that the internal temperature of venison brats will continue to rise after it is removed from the heat source. Therefore, it is important to remove the venison brats from the heat source when the thermometer reads 155°F (68.3°C). This will ensure that the venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature.

Why Is Internal Temperature Important?

Cooking food to the right internal temperature is essential for food safety. Bacteria can cause foodborne illness when food is not cooked to the right temperature.

Venison Brats is particularly susceptible to foodborne illness because it can contain higher levels of bacteria than other meats. Therefore, it is important to ensure that venison brats is cooked to the right internal temperature in order to avoid foodborne illness.

When Cooking Venison Brats, It Is Important To Keep The Following Tips In Mind:

1. Marinate your venison brats in your favorite sauce or marinade overnight for maximum flavor. 2. Preheat your grill to medium-high heat before cooking. 3. Grill your venison brats for 8-10 minutes, flipping once, or until they reach an internal temperature of 160°F. 4. Serve your grilled venison brats on a toasted bun with your favorite toppings. 5. Enjoy!

Venison Brats Recipes

Recipe 1. Venison Brat and Kraut Recipe

Ingredients:

-1 package venison brats -1 large jar sauerkraut -1 can beer -1 onion, sliced -1 tablespoon caraway seeds

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. In a large roasting pan, combine venison brats, sauerkraut, beer, onion, and caraway seeds. 3. Bake in preheated oven for 45 minutes, or until brats are cooked through. 4. Serve on a bed of sauerkraut with a side of beer. Enjoy!

Recipe 2. Venison Brats with Herbed Goat Cheese

Ingredients:

-1 package venison brats -4 ounces herbed goat cheese -1 tablespoon olive oil -1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh rosemary -1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh thyme -1/2 teaspoon kosher salt -1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Instructions:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees. 2. In a small bowl, combine goat cheese, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, salt, and pepper. 3. Cut a slit lengthwise down the center of each brat. Fill each brat with goat cheese mixture. 4. Place brats on a baking sheet and bake in preheated oven for 20 minutes, or until brats are cooked through. 5. Enjoy!

Sources

1. Hughes, C. (2018, September 6). Venison Beer Bratwurst (a.k.a. Deer Beer Brats). Broken Arrow Ranch. https://brokenarrowranch.com/blogs/recipes/venison-beer-bratwurst-a-k-a-deer-beer-brats#:~:text=Simmer%20the%20bratwurst%20for%20about,over%20low%20heat%20until%20ready. 2. Pan-Fried Venison Bratwurst. (2018, May 13). How to Cook Meat. https://howtocookmeat.com/recipes/pan-fried-venison-bratwurst/#:~:text=Check%20the%20internal%20temperature%20of%20the%20bratwurst.&text=Once%20they%20reach%20155%20degrees%20F%2C%20remove%20them%20from%20the,for%20a%20few%20more%20minutes.