Just when we thought the P365 series couldn’t get any better, Sig Sauer announced the release of the new and improved P365 X-MACRO.

Sig released the X-MACRO in August, saying the new compact pistol was designed to include everything the best-selling P365 has to offer, and more. The X-MACRO is said to be more accurate and easier to conceal than its predecessors, all with a higher round capacity and a similar thin frame.

This slim design has landed the X-MACRO at the top of the list as the most comfortable and concealable 17-round handgun on the market.

“When the P365 was introduced, it reimagined the possibilities of everyday carry, and the P365 X-MACRO continues this tradition delivering more on everything that made the P365 the number one selling, and most award-winning gun in America,” Tom Taylor, Sig Sauer’s CFO and Executive Vice President of Commercial Sales, says in a media release. “With the P365 X-MACRO you get more of everything you want in an everyday carry pistol, and you no longer need to compromise your capacity for concealability or shootability.”

Let’s go over the specs and features that make the new Sig Sauer P365 X-MACRO one of the hottest new firearms around.

P365 X-MACRO Specs

Features

Size and Capacity

Compact with an impressive round capacity, the P365 X-MACRO is specifically designed for concealed carry – and it shows.

Weighing only 21.5 ounces and measuring 5.2” tall, 6.6” long, and 1.1” wide with a barrel length of 3.1”, this 9mm pistol is built to hold a whopping 17+1 rounds.

The firearm comes with two 17-round newly-designed Sig Sauer magazines built with high-visibility followers. These new mags were designed with the same thin frame as the traditional P365, only with the ability to hold more rounds.

The X-MACRO’s high round capacity squeezed into a 1.1” wide frame makes this weapon more comfortable and easy to conceal than any other 17-round pistol currently on the market.

Frame, Slide and Barrel

The Sig P365 X-MACRO is built with a polymer frame and a stainless steel slide coated in a durable corrosion- and scratch-resistant Nitron finish, well-designed to protect it from the elements.

The pistol comes optics-ready and features a standard 1913 accessory rail, making it easy to add various sights, lights, and lasers, depending on your preference. The X-MACRO is specifically designed to work well with Sig’s popular Electro-Optics FOXTROT1 rail-mounted flashlight.

While the firearm’s carbon steel barrel does not come threaded, it does feature an integrated compensator designedto reduce muzzle flip for faster and more accurate successive shots.

Grip

The X-MACRO has a black polymer grip and comes with Sig’s brand new Macro-Compact grip module.

The pistol also comes with interchangeable backstraps, so you can adjust the grip to be more comfortable for small, medium, or large hand sizes.

Sights

Complete with Sig’s famous X-RAY3 day and night sights, a 3-dot Tritium system designed to provide a glowing illumination in low-light conditions, the X-MACRO has a 5.1” sight radius.

The pistol is optimized for use with Sig’s ROMEOZero red dot sights, which might be a great option if you’re looking to upgrade to more compact red dot reflex sights known for their compact size.

Trigger

The striker-fired P365 X-MACRO is built with a flat trigger, providing a larger surface area and more leverage than its curved counterpart, making firing successive shots both easier and faster.

The X-MACRO’s trigger is also designed with a slight lip at the end, which more advanced shooters know can aid in indexing – or transitioning between targets.

Safety

Like the P365 and P365 XL, the Sig Sauer P365 X-MACRO was designed without a manual thumb safety.

Final Thoughts

The Sig Sauer P365 X-MACRO was designed with a small frame, high round capacity, and optics-ready build, making it an easy and comfortable choice for concealed carry – or whatever else you may need it for.

You can get your hands on this new release at Guns.com or through your local firearms dealer.

If you do decide to grab one of these pistols for concealed carry, be sure to check out our selection of Kydex and hybrid IWB, OWB, and pocket carry P365 X-MACRO holsters.

If you’re looking for belts or holsters for other handgun models, we recommend visiting our Holsters by Gun Model page if you are looking for holsters that are custom-made for your weapon of choice. For all of our belt and holster options and for more information to help you choose the carry system that works best for you, visit our Vedder Holsters website.

Looking for items beyond holsters and belts, check out our Resources Page for popular product links like lights, lasers, first aid, maintenance, and more.

With hunting season in full swing and with more hunts around the corner, the archery ranges have been busier than ever. Folks are getting ready for upcoming hunts and some are possibly even trying to rectify some mishaps that might have recently happened in the field. All of us have been there a time or two. We’ve put in the range time ahead of season, scouted our tails off and continued to grind our way into the depths of our hunt all to arrive at that moment. That moment that we are all striving for. We get a great animal in front of us and hit them with our rangefinder. The reading is within our effective shooting distance back at the range, so we let it rip. Unfortunately, that’s all the ripping that takes place and our arrow sails harmlessly over the animal’s back.

“They were within my effective range! What happened?”

Hunting happened and your effective range might not be what you think it is.

So, what is your effective range?

Before we dive into the meat and potatoes here, let’s look at effective range as a whole. What is it? Personally, I would define it as a distance in which the shooter can effectively place three arrows within a paper plate or kill zone of an animal. At which point distance wise they fail to do that, that point would be past their effective shooting range. That distance is going to vary from shooter to shooter, but the principle remains the same. One hunter’s effective range might be 40 yards, while another’s might be 80 yards. Experience, dedication to their craft and overall skill level seems to be what separates people here. No matter the case, it’s important that we are honest with ourselves here when we’re at the range. Take note of where you really start to see inconsistencies. That’s at the range, though. This tale doesn’t end at the range.

Your effective range in the field…

I am a firm believer that your effective range at the range is likely not your effective range in the field. Things are just different and there is no way for us to replicate the feeling of a live animal in front of us. This is the part that we get to practice the least out of this whole equation that is bowhunting. We don’t get to practice having the adrenaline rush that comes from a close encounter. There aren’t scenarios at the range where you are at full draw waiting for the right angle, all the while melting with anticipation.

At the end of that cycle, there is picking a spot and executing a good shot. The first few times I was ever at full draw on an animal, I remember actually aiming at the animal as a whole, not picking a spot—a common mistake among new bowhunters. We know these things before getting into the field, but, when we get there and are put in that situation, it’s almost as if you forget. For that reason, I think we need to eat some humble pie before heading in the field.

It is good practice, in my opinion, to subtract a bit off of what you determine your effective range is at the range. Let’s say 10 to 20 yards. So, if your effective range at the range is 80 yards, I’d say whittle that down to 60 yards during your hunt. There are just so many variables that have an effect on our shooting out there. The weather, a target that moves, the size of the animal, our own desires, poor shooting conditions, etc. Of course, this distance might increase through the years as you grow more comfortable with bowhunting and acquire more in the field practice. However, ice running through the veins is not a common trait. I’d also be pretty sad if, one day, bowhunting encounters don’t excite me as they do today. It’s why we do it.

Practicing for game day

While we can’t replicate exactly what it is to be at full draw in the red zone of a big buck, I do think there are some things that we can do to practice for game day. Instead of standing with perfect archery form, try sitting or kneeling for your shot. You could try sitting with your legs out to the side, in front of you or even crossed. What about shooting with one foot up on a rock while the other is planted on the ground? Each of these things throw off our balance, which is a highly likely scenario in a hunting situation. Try shooting at your maximum effective shooting distance in some of these positions. You might be surprised. While you’re at it, try holding at full draw for 30 seconds to a minute and then shoot at your maximum effective distance. Actually, before you do that, sprint to the target and back or do 20 burpees to elevate your heart rate a bit. Oh! And when you shoot, don’t aim at a bullseye. Pick a spot and aim at a random place on the target. 3D targets are great for this. In the end, my money is on that effective shooting distance not being exactly what you thought it was.

Closing thoughts

In no way, shape or form am I knocking long-range bowhunting with this piece. I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again: If you can do it, you can do it. Getting to that point, though, doesn’t come without a little reflection. These are merely thoughts on some possible healthy reevaluations that we can look at. As hard as bowhunting is, we don’t get opportunities out the wazoo for filling tags. Each animal that we are so fortunate to bring home is one that doubtfully came from little to no work. It takes dedication to be consistently successful with a bow and, along the way, it pays for us to truly know what we are and are not capable of. Knowing this is going to provide us with a better experience overall and the quickest death possible for the game we pursue. We are predators and it is on us to be good ones.

Massachusetts hunters are preparing for the approaching spring turkey season. Subject to limitations, the season will last for several weeks and include the Youth Turkey Hunt Day. This article will go through the specifics of the Massachusetts turkey season, including crucial dates, rules, and advice on a productive hunt. So gather your supplies, and let’s begin!

Massachusetts Turkey Season 2024

During this season, a hunting or sports license, a turkey permit, and three turkey tags are needed to hunt wild turkeys in Massachusetts. For the eleventh season, beginning in April, turkey hunting will also be permitted on Cape Cod National Seashore.

MA Youth Turkey Season

MA Youth Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game Zones 1-13 (Youth Hunt:)22-Apr22-Apr

MA Spring Turkey Season

MA Sping Turkey SeasonSeason Start DateSeason End Date Big Game (Zones 1-13)24-Apr20-May

MA Fall Turkey Season

MA Fall Turkey SeasonHunting Season Start DateHunting Season End Date Big Game (Zones 10-13***)2-Oct25-Nov Big Game (Zones 1-9***)16-Oct25-Nov

From October 16 through October 28, 2024, hunters may use shotguns, muzzleloading shotguns, and archery tools during the autumn turkey hunting season in wildlife management zones 1 through 13. However, only archery gear is permitted during specific times of the fall season. The tables that are presented offer further information on these times.

Permitted EquipmentStart DatesEnd Dates WMZ 1-9 No fall turkey hunting2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov WMZ 10-13 Archery only2-Oct14-Oct Shotgun, muzzleloading, archery16-Oct28-Oct Archery only30-Oct25-Nov

Bag Limits

SeasonBag LimitNotes Spring2 bearded birds2 birds may be harvested on the same day Fall1 turkey of either sex

Turkey Licenses

LicensesFees Turkey Permit, Resident$10.00 Turkey Permit, Non-resident$15.00 Resident Hunting$29.50 Resident Hunting (Age 65-69)$14.75

Note: For the entire Hunting license list, view it on the mass.gov website

Hunting Regulations

• Massachusetts turkey hunters need licenses and permits. Massachusetts requires a Hunting or Sporting License, a Turkey permit, and a Safety sticker. Non-residents require a Big game license, Turkey permission, and a Safety sticker. Turkey hunting with a shotgun or muzzleloader requires a safety sticker. Sighting down the barrel requires this sticker. Visit any MassWildlife office or contact [email protected] to get a new sticker.

• Turkey hunting equipment rules vary in spring. Shotgun hunting is limited to gauge 10 and shot size #4. Smoothbore shotguns may only be.775 calibers and #4 shot size for muzzleloader hunting. Archery equipment must have a draw weight of at least 40 lbs at 28 inches or peak draw and well-sharpened steel broadhead blades of at least 7/8 inches. Expanding broadheads and portable releases are permitted, but airbows are not. Permitted disabled hunters may use crossbows.

• During the autumn turkey season in Massachusetts, hunters must wear blaze orange caps in Wildlife Management Areas stocked with pheasants or quail.

• Massachusetts, licensed turkey hunters may call turkeys for other hunters but cannot carry firearms or archery equipment if they have surpassed the season limit. Even without tags, the caller needs a license and Turkey permission. Massachusetts turkey hunters cannot utilize electronic calls, dogs, bait, drive or herd birds, or live decoys.

• Hunters must rescue and utilize dead or injured game animals. The animal must be maintained or sent to someone else for processing. Damaged, decaying, ill, or contaminated animals are exempt from this regulation.

• Massachusetts residents must report turkey harvests within 48 hours at a check station or online via MassFishHunt. After harvesting the turkey, you must affix the paper tag from your permit to the carcass and keep it intact until it is reported and processed for food or taxidermy. Online harvesters must put their confirmation number on the carcass tag.

• Massachusetts has spring and fall turkey seasons. Spring runs from the final Monday of April to the fourth Saturday. Wildlife management zones (WMZs) affect fall. WMZ 1-9’s season runs from the 6th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. WMZ 10-13’s season runs from the 8th Monday before Thanksgiving to the Saturday after. Sunday hunting is prohibited. There is a special kids’ turkey hunt on the Saturday before spring. This hunt requires the young turkey program and Basic hunter education.

Note: For Complete Massachusetts Turkey hunting regulation, you review the Commonwealth of Massachusetts website

FAQ: Turkey Season in Massachusetts

Hunting rabbits is not easy, and you need a few tips and tricks, the most important being where to shoot a rabbit with a.22. A headshot is undeniably the most humane kill shot.

Rabbit hunting is a popular outdoor sport that most hunters grow to love over time. When hunting rabbits with a firearm, a .22lr is among the best to use as it does not damage the rabbit’s flesh.

Even though some people see rabbit hunting as less glamorous than big game hunting like deer, it comes with its fair share of thrill and adventure. Rabbit hunting is both mentally and physically tasking, and it is this challenge that intrigues hunters.

Understanding the Rabbit Anatomy

Rabbit hunting, like other game hunting, needs practice. You must know where to aim at a rabbit to ensure you do not miss your target, especially if it’s a moving target. An ethical shot for rabbit hunters is the headshot, leading to instant and pain-free death. When aiming at a running rabbit, aim ahead so that the bullet catches the rabbits nose.

If the rabbit is motionless, aim your .22 caliber rifle below the rabbit’s ear just behind its eye. The reason is that the rabbit’s brain is small, and a bullet at this point is a guaranteed hit leading to instant pain-free death.

Proper Rabbit Shot Placement

Rabbit hunting is all about giving it a humane death. If you have ever shot a rabbit, then you understand how its death is often dramatic. With kicks flailing through the air, it can be devastating to watch. It is why you should only shoot under these conditions.

When your accuracy is guaranteed, and the risk of a non-lethal shot can be avoided. Take a one-shot kill that leaves no room for recovery of consciousness.

Only take a shot when you can visibly see and recognize a rabbit under your aim. Also, ensure that the rabbit is within range, and the ammunition you are using is fatal.

Never shoot at a rabbit when you cannot guarantee a humane kill. The rule is simple; when you are in doubt, do not take the shot.

The best way to take down a rabbit is by aiming at the head. When you miss the head, you can land at the spinal cord, which destroys the nerve center. Other targets include the lungs, heart, and major blood vessels.

Types of Fatal Rabbit Shots

Frontal Position

Here you aim dead center at the head just between the rabbit’s eyes. It is an instant kill if you hit your target.

Temporal Position (side view)

If you have the rabbit at a side view, the best shot placement is between the base of the ear and the opposite eye.

Chest Shot

Most chest shots are sided views hence offers a broader target than the rabbits head. Aim your firearm horizontally to hit the shoulder. Chest shots are best applied when the animal is stationary, as this gives you an accurate shot placement.

Hunting rabbits when they are out of range with a .22lr is not advisable. It would be best if you estimated the distance before taking any shot to ensure maximum penetration.

Sometimes you can hit the rabbit, but death cannot be instantly verified. To minimize the rabbit’s suffering, you should consider a second shot or rush in with a blow to the head. Target the base of the skull to give a single but fatal sharp blow.

Effective Rabbit Hunting Tips

Snapshot

If you hunt rabbits hidden in heavy cover, you will barely have time to aim and take a good shot. You must ensure that you have one swift motion starting by locating, aiming, then shouldering your rifle before squeezing the trigger.

Because there is no time to pick your spot, speed, and accuracy determine your success.

Walking Up Rabbits

It is among the basic and traditional ways of hunting rabbits that are still effective today. The walk-up-rabbit technique compels a rabbit to abandon its sitting and hiding position, preferring the dash, assuming it has been spotted.

The rabbit cannot stand when you wait it out, and the lack of motion from a hunter makes the rabbit nervous even when it is camouflaged and hidden from the hunter’s purview. The technique is simple.

Once you enter a rabbits hiding spot, walk through slowly. It helps if you count ten paces, then stop for 20-40 seconds and repeat the process. As you approach the rabbit, the sounds may fail to flush it out, but the silence may trigger a dash.

Best .22 Ammo for Rabbit Hunting

There are two reasons for rabbit hunting, either for the fur and meat or for pest control. The reasons determine the kind of ammo you will use. For example, if you want to spare the meat and fur, flat or round nose ammo should suffice. The bullets will cause less damage to the flesh, leaving it edible as there will be no contamination or fragmentation of the bullets.

The pelts will also have a tiny hole meaning that the fur is preserved. The best .22lr ammo is the 40-grain standard CCI mini-mag that is readily available in most gun retail shops. If you prefer a much quieter load, the quiet CCI 40-grain ammo is the preferred choice for sound suppression.

But if you hunt rabbits for pest control, there is no need to preserve the meat or fur. A hollowpoint bullet is a deadly shot that gives the rabbit a humane death. Hollowpoint bullets expand on impact and rarely leave an exit wound. It causes more damage to the flesh, leaving no chances of recovery.

Conclusion

The concept of rabbit hunting borders on making it simple. Rabbit hunting is not as complicated as hunting big game animals. It is also quite affordable to start rabbit hunting if you are a novice hunter. There is no need for unique hunting gear and equipment. You will not be required to build tree stands or have blind spots. Once you find a rabbit habitat with a decent rabbit population, the fun begins.

By PJ DelHomme

Chuck Adams reveals what it takes to keep bowhunting—even into your 70s.

Chuck Adams is perhaps the greatest bowhunter of all time. That’s a bold statement, but consider this. In 1990, Adams became the first archer in history to harvest all varieties of North American big game—a feat called the Super Slam. As I write this in early August 2022, he has more than 210 Pope and Young record-book entries, which is more than any other hunter in history. In addition, he’s racked up six bowhunting World’s Records. Adams turned 71 in May, and I was able to track him down before he headed back to Alaska to hunt solo for Sitka blacktail deer. Here’s what he had to say.

You started bowhunting in California when you were 13. Why bowhunting?

The minimum age you could hunt big game there was 12, and both my grandfathers and dad had great hunting spots. As a young kid, I would think about hunting deer all year. Using a rifle, I got my deer down in a few days, and I thought it was a lot of anticipation for the pay off. I took up bowhunting, so I could hunt more and kill less. I got my first deer with a bow at 16. It took me three years to do that, just like my hero Fred Bear.

How do you continually get out there and get it done? What’s your secret?

It’s probably genetics. My dad was packing deer on his back when he was in his 80s. And I live a really healthy lifestyle. I don’t drink alcohol. I don’t eat domestic red meat—it’s all wild game. I’m out there hiking around and doing something all the time. I can tell you I still feel like I’m 30. I carried three deer back to my camp [last season] about five miles. The average Sitka deer is 60 pounds of boneless meat.

How often do you practice shooting your bow?

I talked to a doctor about 20 years ago because my friends were having shoulder issues. My doctor said I would be better off shooting less. So that’s what I did, and I’m one of the few guys over 60 that I know who has had no shoulder problems. And I usually shoot a 75-pound bow.

I’ll usually start shooting 20-30 arrows twice a week in May. Then in July, I shoot about 60 arrows each week. I always warm up with about five minutes of shoulder rolls. I also take time between shots to re-oxygenate my muscles. When I shot tournament archery, I watched people shoot too fast, and they didn’t let their muscles or their mind recoup between shots.

Did you ever go on a hunt and think you weren’t going to make it back?

I wrote about the “Death March” in one of my books about a hunt in British Columbia in the 1970s. We had 29 horses and mules when we started, and nine of them died on the trail because of malnutrition. The hunt was set up with one of the companies I worked with, and they didn’t do their research. It started snowing, and we didn’t dare ride the horses except to cross the streams, which we did 28 times—I counted. If we all hadn’t been in good shape, I’m not sure what might have happened.

How much does luck play into hunting—bowhunting in particular?

It’s huge—sometimes. For example, I didn’t expect to kill the new World’s Record typical velvet Sitka deer last year, and it was the first deer I saw on the trip. Overall, though, luck is fairly small when it comes to planning. The most important thing in bowhunting is persistence. If you’re persistent enough, you will overcome anything.

Do you ever kill anything without big antlers? Do you take all that meat home?

I love the meat, and I pack it all out. I eat the heck out of wild game. Nowadays in Alaska, the excess baggage fees have gotten so high that I donate some meat to the local mission on the island. If my bush pilot needs meat, I’ll sign it over to him. And the laws are pretty clear about wanton waste. This year I applied for a cow elk permit in Wyoming, which I’ll probably get. And one in Montana, too.

Most folks can’t say they hunt for a living. Can you say that?

No. I make a living, so I can hunt. I write, do seminars, TV shows and rep a few companies that I like, so I can go hunt. If I felt any pressure to hunt, I think I’d quit. I hunt for fun, not to make money.

Any hunt you would never want to do again?

Polar bear. I was 1,000 miles away from my outfitter, and it was a rodeo from start to finish. My guide said he had the best dogs, but they had supposedly run away, so he had another set of dogs that were terrible. They ran away from the first bear we saw. I ended up stalking that bear myself.

Do you have a state or terrain that speaks to you more than others?

My two favorite states to hunt are Montana because of the variety of game and Alaska because there you can hunt most species without a guide. I only go with a guide if it’s legally required. I’ve been bowhunting for 50 years, so I don’t really need one. Guides do have knowledge of the area. But honestly, I wouldn’t want another Chuck Adams guiding me because two bowhunters make twice as much noise as one.

In just about every photo I see of you, you’re wearing the same faded camo and old boots. Why not upgrade to high-tech camo?

I don’t think all those new camo patterns work as well as merino wool and traditional stuff. I think it’s a stunt. That stuff is too expensive. You can fade a pair of black Levis and be just fine. Today, I would say there is a cult following all those camo patterns. When guys show up at hunting camp all wearing the same fancy camo, I just laugh.

Any plans to hang up your bow and take up golf?

I’ll hang up my bow when I can’t put one foot in front of the other. I’ve got 211 Pope and Young animals, the most of any hunter, and my buddy Frank is trying to catch me. That’s really not the reason, but I am challenge oriented. I can’t stand the thought of running a race and even seeing anyone close. I hunt because I love it. I think the bottom line is that I enjoy bowhunting as much as I ever have. The glitter has never worn off for me.

Learn more about Chuck Adams at his website, www.chuckadamsarchery.com. Or follow his exploits on Instagram @Chuckadamsarcheryofficial.

PJ DelHomme writes and edits content from his basement office in western Montana. He runs Crazy Canyon Media and Crazy Canyon Journal.

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There is a clear winner when we compare the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, but it’s not for the reasons you might think.

Both rounds have similar ballistics and fulfill a similar purpose, but there’s an important reason why the 6.5 Creedmoor is the caliber, so many hunters and shooters choose.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor

Few other calibers are as close to comparing apples to apples as these two because the cartridges have minute differences in size and shoot the same diameter bullet.

Cartridge Specs

The bullet diameter for both rounds is .264″, and the rim diameter of the cartridge is the same at .473″.

The difference lies in the case. The 260 Rem has a case length of 2.035″. The 6.5 Creedmoor is slightly shorter at 1.92″.

One might conclude that the 260 has a longer maximum overall length; however, that’s not the case.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has an overall length of 2.825″, and the 260 Reming has an overall length of 2.80″.

The 260 Remington has a 20-degree shoulder angle, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has a 30-degree shoulder angle.

The 260 Remington has a max pressure (SAAMI) of 60,00 psi that stems from a powder capacity of 53.5 gr H2O.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a higher max pressure of 62,000 psi with a case capacity of 52.5 gr H20.

6.5 Creedmoor vs 260 Remington: Recoil

Unless you’re a young buck trying to prove yourself to the world, you would agree less recoil is better.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a lower recoil round.

Many factors go into calculating recoil, such as the gun weight, shooter, bullet size, and amount of powder in the case.

For the sake of the comparison, we’re going to assume all things are as equal as possible.

When we do this, we see that these rounds have similar amounts of recoil.

The 260 Rem has 15.65 ft-lbs of felt recoil, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has 15.03 ft-lbs of recoil.

The difference is so minimal the average person won’t be able to tell the difference.

Technically, the 6.5 Creedmoor has less recoil, so it wins this section.

Trajectory

Due to gravity, the path it takes when we fire a bullet is an arch. Otherwise known as the bullet trajectory.

It’s much easier to be accurate with a flat shooting bullet, especially at long ranges.

This is why the 6.5 Creedmoor is a favorite amongst long-range shooters.

A 120gr bullet zeroed in at 200 yards has a bullet drop of 7.5″ at 300yds and 44.4″ of drop at 500yds.

A 140gr 6.5 Creedmoor bullet has 9″ of drop at 300 yards and 53.7″ of bullet drop at 500yds when zeroed in at 200 yards.

It might surprise you that the 260 Remington has a flatter trajectory.

A 120gr 260 Rem bullet, zeroed in at 200 yards, only drops 7.2″ at 300 yards and 42.8″ at 500yds.

A 140-grain bullet drops 8.2″ at 300yds and 48.7″ at 500 yards when zeroed in at 200 yards.

The winner is the 260 Remington.

260 Rem vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Accuracy

Accuracy is another section that many factors play a role in determining.

The rifle, recoil, shooter, trajectory, barrel length, and factory loads vs hand loads all play a part in determining the accuracy of a round.

We will do the same as we did with the recoil category, considering all things as equal as possible.

Since the 6.5 narrowly won the recoil section and the 260 Rem won the trajectory category, we can consider them canceled out.

Both rounds are very accurate at longer ranges, so this section is a tie.

Ballistic Coefficient

The ballistic coefficient (BC) represents how well a bullet resists air.

It’s a measure of bullet aerodynamics. High B.C. bullets are preferred because they will better resist the wind.

Calculating BC is rather complicated and irrelevant for this article; however, heavier, longer projectiles typically have a higher ballistic coefficient than lighter, shorter bullets.

If you’re like me, you would assume the bullets for each caliber have the same ballistic coefficient; however, that’s incorrect.

The 6.5 Creedmoor is better suited for shooting high BC match grade bullets because of its longer neck and shorter case length.

The 6.5 Creedmoor 140gr ELD Match grade bullets have a .646 BC, the 143gr ELD-X have a .625 BC, and the 147gr ELD Match bullet has a BC of .697 BC.

The 260 Remington doesn’t have as many options, which we will discuss later. The 130gr ELD Match bullet has a .506 ballistic coefficient.

The winner for this category is the 6.5 Creedmoor.

260 vs 6.5 Creedmoor: Stopping Power

Many argue stopping power is a relative term that doesn’t matter if you have a well-placed shot.

I agree it matters less for well-placed shots.

However, no matter how prepared we are as shooters, not every pull of the trigger is a well-placed shot.

That’s why stopping power still matters.

Stopping power can be measured in several ways, such as the size of the hole the bullet leaves and how deep it penetrates the target.

Sectional Density (SD) measures how well a bullet penetrates a target.

This is important when big game hunting because you need a bullet to punch through tough hide, bone, and sinew.

Sectional density is calculated by comparing the bullet weight and the bullet diameter.

The higher the number, the better it will penetrate the target.

Since both calibers shoot the same diameter bullet in varying weights, the sectional densities will be identical.

A 120gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .246. The 140-grain .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .287.

A 160gr .264″ diameter bullet has a sectional density of .328. A 156gr .264″ diameter bullet has an SD of .320.

However, other factors exist in terms of SD outside the shape of the bullet: velocity and bullet design.

Two bullets weighing the same but traveling at different velocities have differing stopping power or penetration amounts.

The higher velocity bullet will penetrate deeper.

The 260 Remington typically has a higher muzzle velocity of 2,941fps for a 120gr bullet and 2,793fps for a 140-grain bullet.

The 6.5 Creedmoor has a muzzle velocity of 2,892 feet per second for a 120-grain bullet and 2,678fps for a 140gr bullet.

Bullet design also plays a role. Non-expanding bullets penetrate deeper but won’t leave as large of a wound channel.

While expanding bullets cause a large wound channel but don’t penetrate as deep.

This section is a tie because the 260 Remington has a slightly higher muzzle velocity, and the 6.5 Creedmoor has more options for different bullet types.

Hunting

Both calibers offer many hunters an excellent option for whitetail deer hunting, mule deer, pronghorn, coyotes, and varmint hunting to 500 yards.

They can also take elk and bear out to 300 yards; however, I strongly recommend using a larger caliber for elk hunting and moose hunting.

These calibers don’t pack enough punch to harvest big game ethically at longer distances.

The .308 Winchester would be my hunting cartridge choice above the 260 Rem and the 6.5 Creedmoor when big game hunting.

With these rounds being so similar, neither has a distinct advantage in hunting, so this category is a tie.

.260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Home Defense

I don’t recommend using a rifle for home defense because they’re known for overpenetration.

Rifle rounds tend to go through multiple walls, which could unintentionally endanger your family and neighbors.

Instead of putting your family and friends at risk, I recommend using a 12-gauge or 20-gauge shotgun or a 45 ACP or 40 S&W.

Now, if it’s the apocalypse and you’ve got a zombie horde approaching, by all means, bust out the 6.5 Creedmoor or 260 Remington and protect your home.

However, for close-quarter combat, they’re not going to be my first choice despite both calibers being available in the AR-10 platform.

This section is a tie because the 6.5 Creedmoor and 260 Remington were designed for long-range shooting, not close quarters.

Ammo Cost & Availability

This is one area where the 6.5 Creedmoor begins to stand out.

Not so much in price because a cheap 6.5 Creedmoor round will cost anywhere from $1.75-$2.75 per round, depending on the brand and whether or not it’s FMJ or ELD ammunition.

Many brands manufacture 6.5 Creedmoor, such as Hornady, Sellier & Bellot, Winchester, Browning, and Aguila.

Since so many brands make ammo in this caliber, it’s relatively easy to find, considering the times.

The .260 Rem is different. Not as many companies manufacture ammo in this caliber, so it’s much more difficult to find.

However, once you find it, it’s similarly priced to 6.5 Creedmoor.

If you’re looking to save money, I suggest buying bulk 6.5 Creedmoor ammo because most companies offer steeper discounts when you buy in bulk.

The 6.5 Creedmoor wins because of the availability of the factory ammunition at a similar price.

Rifle Cost & Availability

The cost for rifles chambered in both calibers will be about the same.

For instance, a Savage Arms 110 Engage Hunter XP Rifle chambered in .260 Remington will cost about $540, and the same hunting rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor will cost about $580.

However, most bolt-action rifles chambered in 260 Rem are out of stock. So though the prices are similar, very few guns are available compared to rifles chambered in 6.5 Creedmoor.

You can get around this by getting a custom gun made, but that comes at a custom price, which is always much higher than a factory rifle.

For example, a Tikka 260 Remington Ss starts at $1,150, which is on the cheap end, whereas a Ruger M77 Hawkeye starts at around $830.

The winner is the 6.5 Creedmoor because of the abundance of rifles available.

Reloading

Reloading is another way to save money on ammo. It also gives you more control over the final product than factory ammo.

You can control all the controllable variables and craft the perfect round for your rifle.

Most serious shooters love handloading because of the increased control of the entire process.

Both calibers are capable of being reloaded. There are plenty of information and supplies available to successfully handload either round.

This category is a draw.

260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

If you’re a ballistics nut, then you’ll love this section. I will say there is very little difference in the ballistics of each caliber.

260 Remington Ballistics

As I mentioned earlier, the muzzle velocity of the .260 Remington varies from 2,941 fps with a 120-grain bullet to 2,793 with a 140-grain bullet.

As far as muzzle energy goes, the 260 Remington has 2,305 ft-lbs to 2,425 ft-lbs depending on the weight of the bullet.

As the distance from the muzzle increases, the difference in energy decreases. At 500 yards, a 120gr bullet has 975 ft-lbs of energy, and a 140gr bullet has 979 ft-lbs of energy.

6.5 Creedmoor Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

260 Remington Development

The 260 Remington was a wildcat cartridge until Remington standardized it in 1997, but they weren’t the first to try to standardize it.

A-Square LLC first submitted the proposal and drawings to SAAMI, but in the end, the cartridge was named after Remington.

It was created by necking down a .308 Winchester cartridge.

This round is most popular in the tactical and competitive shooter realms but is an effective hunting cartridge in a short-action rifle.

This round has been unsuccessful commercially in the US, but that’s not the case in Europe due to the popularity of 6.5mm bullets.

6.5 Creedmoor Development

Hornady debuted the 6.5 Creedmoor in 2007 as a “do anything” cartridge. Competition shooters were the first to jump on board and had immediate success using the caliber.

Big game hunters were more skeptical because the round lacks the weight often needed to bring down big game ethically. Though it has proved capable of bringing down some of the biggest game in the world, many hunters have other preferences.

The 6.5x55mm Swedish is the cartridge that Dennis DeMille based the 6.5 Creedmoor on.

Parting Shots

By now, you see that there is little difference between the 260 Remington vs 6.5 Creedmoor, yet the 6.5 Creedmoor is much more popular because of the greater availability of the rifles and ammo.

The .260 Remington won 1/10 categories. At the same time, the Creedmoor won 4/10 categories.

That means they tied in 5/10 sections due to their similarities.

The average shooter won’t notice the minute differences but should go with a 6.5 Creedmoor because of its availability.

I will always remember telling a hunting story to a non-hunting co-worker a few years back. I was rambling on about the specific details of a deer hunt over the weekend using all the fancy deer hunting lingo. He graciously let me continue.

But when I had finished, he smiled and said, “That’s great; could you repeat that in English?”

I’m not sure if it actually happened, but it feels to me like I stood there with my mouth agape for about 5 minutes before I could muster an intelligent response.

Needless to say, I was a little embarrassed.

It had literally not even occurred to me that the deer hunting slang and hunting terms I had grown so used to would be so foreign to someone who had not hunted before.

As with any community or group, there is always a certain level of technical jargon to understand. But if you’re learning to hunt, there is a ridiculous amount of hunting terminology slang words to wrestle with. Trying to understand someone who uses these deer hunting terms and phrases might seem like you’re trying to test out of a college language requirement (and not doing well, either).

I felt it was about time I write an article to define some of these deer hunting terms for you. Reference it whenever you need to. When you’re done, check out the list of small game hunting terms too.

Common Deer Hunting Terms

Antlers The bony growths on a buck’s head. They’re called racks or horns too, but horns do not fall off; it’s just a misnomer. Deer, elk, and moose have antlers. Bag / daily limit The legal number of animals of a certain species you can kill each day. Bed Where a deer actually lays down, they leave an oval depression in the grass or snow. Larger beds usually belong to bucks. Bedding area A place where deer will rest and sleep during the day; usually this is found in dense thickets or places where they can easily hide. Bleating Does make a whiny bleat noise to communicate with each other and signal they are in estrous. Blowing Often following a “white flag”, deer will snort loudly (i.e., “blow”) to alert other deer about a threat. Broadside The most ethical shot at a deer is when they are standing perpendicular to you so you can see one entire side of their body. A broadside shot to the vitals is a quickly-killed deer. Brow tine The first antler tine nearest to a buck’s head. Browsing Deer are adapted to eat woody shrubs and herbaceous plants quickly by roughly tearing off large chunks and continuing on their walk. Buck A male deer. Busted / spooked When deer or other game smell, see, or hear you, they will get nervous and/or leave the area quickly. Button buck A male fawn deer that only has little bumps for antlers in its first year. These are generally considered legal does because their antlers are less than 3 inches long and can be confused for does in the field. Can call An accessory piece of hunting equipment, this call is typically in the shape or a small can and sounds like a doe bleating, which they use to communicate with other deer. Climber / climbing tree stand A tree stand that wraps around a tree trunk and has a seat section and foot-hold section. You use leverage to climb the tree. Doe A female deer. Estrous When does are ready to mate, they are “in estrous”, much like a dog is “in heat”. Fawn A fawn is a deer that was born the spring of the same calendar year. Can be a newborn with spots or look like a small deer at 6 months old. Feeding area A place where deer will eat during the night, whether that includes a corn field, food plot, young forest, or shrub patch. Field dressing After shooting a deer, you need to remove the entrails quickly so the meat doesn’t spoil. Also called “gutting”. Fork buck / forkhorn A male deer with a forked tine on each side of its head, but no more than 4 points or tines. Funnel A narrow area where topography and/or habitat features cause deer to converge on a single trail. For example, where a forest is pinched by fields on each side. Glassing Using binoculars or a spotting scope to look for wild game from a good vantage point. Grunt tube A tubular deer call that sounds like a buck grunting, which they typically do during the rut. Grunting Bucks make a low-pitched grunt at each other to signal aggression, especially during the breeding season (rut). Gut shot The region of a deer that holds the stomach, intestines, liver, and various other organs. A gut shot is to be avoided as it is likely to slowly kill a deer, but it is extremely difficult to find them. Hang-on tree stand A tree stand base that connects to a tree via a ratchet strap. It also requires separate ladder sections to be attached to the tree so you can access it. Harvest A popular term in wildlife management circles, the act of killing or “taking” an animal. It’s unpopular with many hunters due to the gardening analogy, whereas hunting is the act of taking a life. Horns A permanent bony protrusion from an animal’s head. See the difference from “Antlers” above. Cows, sheep, goats, or antelope have horns. Hunting weapons Generally defines any guns (rifle, shotgun, muzzleloader, or pistol) or bows (bow or crossbow) used to hunt animals. Different from tactical weapons, which are used more for target shooting. Ladder tree stand A tree stand that props up against a tree, using multiple connected ladder sections. License A hunting license should be purchased for each species or type of hunting you do. It is granting you the privilege to hunt. Mast The fruit or nuts of trees, including apples, pears, berries, grapes, acorns, walnuts, etc. Mature A deer is considered mature by most people when it reaches 3 1/2 years old. Nubbin buck See “Button buck” above. Paunch See “Gut shot” above. Pinch point See “Funnel” above. Possession limit The legal number of animals of a certain species you can physically have in your possession (in the freezer, canned, etc.). This may be more than the daily bag limit. Processing The process of skinning, quartering, and cutting all the meat off of a deer carcass. Doing this yourself can be intimidating, but you know exactly how the meat is treated this way too. Quartering (butchering) The act of cutting the “quarters” off of a deer while processing/butchering it. The quarters include all four legs. Quartering (shot) When a deer is slightly facing away from or towards you. Quartering away shots are great for bow hunters or gun hunters, but a quartering to shot should be avoided. Rack See “Antlers” above. Rattling A hunter uses two antlers to make it sound like bucks fighting, which can lure a mature buck into shooting range. Generally more useful in areas with little hunting pressure and lots of mature deer. Rub When a buck rubs its antlers against a tree to mark its territory, strengthen its neck, or remove its velvet, it scrapes the bark away. Commonly found in areas bucks like to hang out. Ruminant Like cows, deer quickly feed on plants while they can, and then lie down to chew their cud. This cud-chewing, combined with their four-chambered stomach, digests the food when they’re in the safety of their bed. Rut / pre-rut / post-rut The rut is when deer enter the peak of their breeding season (i.e., they breed the most). The pre-rut includes the weeks leading up to the rut, while the post-rut includes the weeks after it. Scent drag A piece of rope with a cloth at the end. The cloth is usually sprayed with a deer scent and drug through the woods behind a hunter to make it smell like a deer traveled the same path. Scope Magnifying optics usually mounted to the top of a rifle that allow you to make an accurate long-distance shot at an animal. Scouting The act of investigating a hunting property before you actually hunt it. A scouting trip helps you to find good hunting locations based off of wildlife sign. Scrape A scratched area on the ground (usually about 1-3 feet across) where a buck or doe leaves scent from its hooves and urinates into it to communicate to other deer in the area. Seasons The time allotted to hunt a certain species, usually open for a set number of days. Shed / shed antler As bucks enter late winter, the antlers on their head will fall off so they can start growing new ones in the spring. Shooter Usually used to describe a deer you would kill (one of legal status and to your liking). Sign The evidence left behind from animals, including tracks, trails, beds, rubs, scrapes, etc. Spike buck A male deer with only one tine on each side of its head, forming a spike. Stamp Some wild game species (e.g., waterfowl, pheasants, etc.) may require you to purchase a special additional stamp. The proceeds from these stamps will generally support additional conservation efforts for that species. Still-hunting Walking very slowly through the woods, trying to ambush an animal before they see/hear you. Tag In addition to your hunting license, you will have a field tag. This paper slip will contain basic harvest data about your animal, and serves to validate or fulfill your license. Tines The single bony extensions on an antler. Also called “points”. For example, an 8-pointer would have 8 tines (4 on each antler). Velvet In the spring and summer, velvet is living tissue that covers the development of deer antlers, making it one of the fastest-growing tissue in the world. They usually shed this tissue before hunting season. Venison Meat from a deer is called venison. Vitals The chest cavity of a deer that holds the heart and lungs. A shot with a bow or rifle in the vitals will usually quickly kill a deer and is the most ethical shot. White flag When white-tailed deer retreat, they raise their white tails to show a predator they were spotted. Not a good sign.

Using This List of Hunting Terms

Clear as mud?

As you can see, the deer hunting vocabulary is full of odd hunting terms; some make sense and some just don’t. I hope this hunting terms glossary will help you sort through that confusion.

It’s important to note that the hunting terms listed above really just scratches the surface for deer hunting. Besides that, there are specific bird hunting terms, turkey hunting slang words, and various other hunting phrases. If it’s helpful, I’ll add a list for those someday too.

I didn’t want to overwhelm you with one post!

The next time you hear another hunter talking in hunting slang, I hope you can use this list as a helpful resource to engage in the conversation.

If nothing else, feel free to call them out on it like my co-worker did to me. It will probably open their eyes to start using more inclusive hunting language going forward.

Anything I missed? Send me a quick message with deer hunting terms you’ve heard that boggled your mind.

Whitetail hunting in Michigan is a time-honored tradition enjoyed by locals and tourists alike. Deer season attracts hunters from near and far who seek to land that coveted trophy Whitetail deer. There are many outstanding areas to hunt Whitetail within the state of Michigan, ranging from national parks to private hunting land.

This article highlights some of the best spots for Whitetail Hunting in Michigan so that you can have the best chance possible for success on your next Whitetail hunt. Get ready to explore new lands and come home with a trophy Whitetail buck this season!

Overview of Michigan’s Whitetail Hunting Season

Did you know that Michigan has more registered hunters than any other state in the United States? Whitetail hunting in Michigan is popular with hunters from far and wide due to the large concentration of deer – making it an excellent place to hunt. Whitetail hunting season typically runs twice a year, once in the late fall and then again in mid-winter. It’s important for all hunters to pay close attention to regulations for Whitetail hunting season as each state has their own specific laws.

This includes certain hunting hours, limits on how much game you can take, permits and licensing information specific to Whitetail Hunting. Michigan takes these regulations seriously and provides clear guidelines on what is legal and illegal so it’s important that before heading out, hunters thoroughly look into Michigan’s state regulations.

Michigan whitetail hunting has taken a bit of a shift starting in 2022 with the new required reporting for deer harvests. To simplify things, anyone that holds a state-issued hunting license is obligated to report their successful deer harvest, meaning even those with Deer Management Assistance Permits are not exempted from this requirement.

All harvests must be reported within 72 hours – or before any transferred harvested deer – and even if you plan on processing your own harvested deer you will still have to report it through the same reporting process. DNR-issued kill tags must still be attached where applicable, though there’s no need to worry if self-reporting presents any difficulties; in these cases hunters are authorized to reach out for help from either family members, friends or other experienced hunters who could assist in completing the required documentation.

Best Regions to Hunt Whitetail Deer in Michigan

Michigan is a great state for hunting whitetail deer, with the best regions being located in the Upper Peninsula, Northern Lower Peninsula and Southern Lower Peninsula. The Southern Lower Peninsula is widely considered by hunters to be the best spot in the entire state when it comes to quality.

Counties along the Indiana and Ohio lines are particularly praised for their trophy-worthy bucks that you can find here. If you plan on hunting deer in Michigan, we recommend setting aside time between October 20th to November 15th. With gun season arriving on November 15th, deer tend to hide out in more remote areas until all of the shooting stops two weeks later.

Types of Hunting Properties for Whitetail Deer in Michigan

Michigan is home to some of the best hunting properties for whitetail deer in the United States. Anyone looking for an exciting hunt can find their perfect spot with ample opportunities for success. You can choose between public lands, where you’ll be competing with other hunters, and private hunting land where you have exclusive access to two of Michigan’s top deer species: Mule Deer and Whitetail Deer.

There are a number of considerations when selecting the best property, such as quality of cover, habitat structure and deer herd density – all factors that vary between public and private land offerings. Comparison shopping is the key to success when researching the available choices; public lands can offer amazing experiences with more open competition while private properties come with more exclusivity but require additional investments. With careful deliberation, any hunter can find the ideal location for their dream hunt in Michigan!

Best Hunting Properties in Michigan

Hunting Whitetail deer in Michigan can be a rewarding and enjoyable experience. With so many factors to consider, it is important to select the best hunting properties that suit your needs and provide an optimal experience.

The best whitetail hunting properties in Michigan are usually privately owned land since there is less likelihood of other hunters scaring away the game and more of an opportunity to tailor the land and the game that lives on it to suit your needs. Familiarize yourself with world class hunting by researching success stories, talking to experienced hunters, attending hunting seminars and reading up on scouting techniques.

Safety should always be top of mind when out on a hunt – wear blaze orange clothing for visibility and make sure to stress individual safety measures of staying within hearing range of other members for increased safety. Before you go, review all local regulations for firearms and be sure to always apply individual ethical hunting standards. With these tips in mind, enjoy the great outdoors by experiencing one of the best places to hunt Whitetail in Michigan!