Whether we’re ready to admit it or not, the number of natural disasters that occur each year has steadily increased over time. From flash floods and wildfires to heat waves and hurricanes, major events are plaguing the planet more consistently, which puts us at risk when help is hours, days or even weeks away. To prepare for such events, the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) recommends we put together an emergency supply kit that contains batteries, first aid supplies, water and food. But a kit filled with perishable foods won’t do you good—any kit worth its salt should contain the best emergency food supplies.

Thanks to their astoundingly long shelf life—up to 30 years in some cases—emergency food supplies are perfectly suited for your preparedness kit. They’re typically offered in larger quantities with individually packaged meals that take minutes to prepare. And while some kits require hot water (in which case, you’ll need to add a camp stove to your kit), others can be rehydrated with nothing more than cold, bottled water (though you should still have a water filter handy just in case).

Non-perishable food kits have long been associated with campers and travelers, but for many of us, keeping long-lasting food on hand just makes good sense. These emergency food supplies tend to be affordable, convenient, easy to use and they last forever, which is why you should keep some in your pantry, garage or basement should you need it.

With this in mind, we’ve rounded up the best emergency food supplies for your basement stockpile, backcountry survival kit or dedicated bug out bag. This list includes options for people with dietary restrictions or specific preferences, and it includes kits that actually taste good, which makes it easier to literally weather the storm.

• Best Emergency Food Supplies For Families: ReadyWise Emergency Food Supply
• Best Emergency Food Supplies For Vegetarians: Survive2Thrive Vegetarian Preparedness Pail
• Best Gluten-Free Emergency Food Supplies: Mountain House Essential Bucket
• Best Emergency Food Supplies For Appetizing Fare: Good To-Go Emergency Food Kit
• Best For Variety: Augason Farms Emergency Supply Food Kit
• Best Emergency Food Bars: S.O.S. Rations Emergency Food Bars
• Best Splurge-Worthy Emergency Food Supplies: Momofuku Noodle Variety Pack
• Best Emergency Canned Food Supplies: Scout Smoked Wild Pink Salmon
• Best emergency Hydration Supplements: Protekt Hydration Supplements

How We Chose The Best Emergency Food Supplies

As backpackers, homeowners and family members, we understand the unique challenges that come with sourcing food in the midst of unpredictable circumstances. We’ve camped in the backcountry for weeks at a time, just as we’ve endured long-term periods without power, and were it not for emergency survival foods and other dehydrated meal kits, we likely would have found ourselves in tough situations. As such, we know what to look for when testing, reviewing and researching emergency food supply options, and we know how to source credible options that speak to quality and extended shelf life.

When assembling this review, we considered each meal kit’s serving size, shelf life, total weight and nutritional value before weighing these factors against their respective reviews. We scoured the web for options, spoke with experts, poured over hundreds of reviews and tested many of these products ourselves. Only the best survived our rigorous testing.

Why Trust Forbes Vetted

At Forbes Vetted, we know how frustrating and time consuming it can be to spend hours sifting through a seemingly endless list of survival products and online reviews. That’s why we took the headache out of the process by testing and reviewing many of these products ourselves. And because the emergency food landscape is changing in accordance with the times, we update this list regularly to reflect the best options and up-to-date information. This list was last updated September 2024.

What To Consider When Shopping For Emergency Food Supplies

Investing in emergency food supplies is a crucial step in ensuring you and your family are prepared for unexpected scenarios. To find the right emergency food for your needs, consider these essential variables:

Nutritional Content

Look for foods that offer a balanced nutritional profile, including protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals, and check for allergen information, especially if anyone in your household has dietary restrictions.

Shelf Life

Longer shelf life ensures that your supplies remain edible for an extended period, so be sure to evaluate both freeze-dried and canned options, as they often have different shelf lives.

Storage Requirements

Determine whether the food requires special storage conditions, such as cool, dry places, and consider space limitations when storing bulk supplies. If live in a home with a garage or basement, storage won’t likely be an issue, but if you live in a smaller apartment you may need to take kit size into consideration.

Caloric Value

Calculate the daily caloric needs of your household members to ensure you have enough food to sustain everyone—some emergency food supply kits are designed to provide a specific number of calories per day.

Food Variety

Aim for variety to prevent flavor fatigue during extended emergencies, and to do this, look for kits that offer a mix of entrees, sides, snacks and beverages.

Special Dietary Needs

Consider any dietary restrictions, allergies or preferences within your household when selecting supplies. Be sure to seek out options that cater to specific diets, such as vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free or kosher, as these dietary restrictions will limit which foods you can store.

Ease Of Preparation

Examine the simplicity of cooking or rehydrating the food, especially if you don’t have access to elaborate cooking equipment. Some emergency meals only require hot water, while others may need additional ingredients or equipment.

Taste And Quality

Emergency food supplies don’t generally taste all that good, but you can still read reviews (or sample products if possible) to assess the taste and quality of the emergency food supplies. If it tastes good, there’s a better chance you’ll be willing to eat it, even in the midst of an emergency.

Are Survival Food Kits Worth It?

Survival food kits represent a low-cost, risk-free means of preparing for the unpredictable, which makes them a worthwhile investment. While we can’t recommend replacing your normal diet with survival food options (these kits don’t offer a number of essential nutrients, despite claims that suggest otherwise), we can recommend keeping a kit in your basement on the off-chance that you need it.

Should I Stock Up On Emergency Food?

According to the FEMA, your emergency kit should contain at least a three-day supply of nonperishable food. The agency also recommends choosing foods your family will eat and paying attention to special dietary needs. Common non-perishable foods include protein or fruit bars, dry cereal, ready-to-eat canned options and high-energy foods.

What Is The Best Survival Food Supply?

The answer to this question depends on your personal situation and what sort of emergency, natural disaster or food shortage you’re preparing for. If you live in a part of the country that isn’t prone to natural disasters, you may be able to get by with a stockpile of peanut butter, granola bars, water and canned beans and vegetables. But if you live in an area that tends to experience hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes or wildfires, you may need to invest in larger quantities of emergency foods that can be prepared with only water and are highly portable should you have to leave your home.

Written by Bethany Beathard

Spring time will be upon us soon, which means gobbler chasing weekends. If you want to increase your chances of turkey harvesting success, consider investing in a turkey decoy. The purpose of using decoys is to lure in a wild tom turkey. Decoy manufactures continue to produce realistic designs. According to Audubon bird studies, turkeys have excellent eyesight. They are able to see three times more clearly than 20/20 vision. Additionally, they can also see in color and have a 270-degree field of vision. This provides them an upper hand on both predators and hunters. It can be challenging when trying to choose the right turkey decoy for you. Be sure to research the states regulations regarding the use of decoys prior to purchasing. First and foremost decide on how much you are willing to invest and set your budget. Consider the terrain and time of season you will be hunting. Scouting the turkey’s behavior in your local setting will be a benefit.

Most Realistic Tom: Avian-X HDR Strutter

You get what you pay for here, as far as realism and durability. Avian-X has created a life-like, high quality design. These decoys are made up of a molded dura-rubber material with non-chip paint. They are collapsible; yet, not the fastest to deploy in a hurry. This tom features a versatile design. You can exchange the heads between worked up tom’s red, white and blue display or a relaxed tom’s solid white head. Avian-X really added to the versatility with this bird. The adjustable synthetic tail fan and beard allow you to transform the decoy from tom to jake. This heavy-duty construction will really increase the longevity of use over multiple seasons. The cons are these decoys tend to be on the bulkier side and are an expensive investment.

Most Realistic Hen decoy: Avian-X HDR Hen or Avian-X HDR Heavy-Duty Feeder Hen

Avian-X has really put in the work creating versatile hen designs. First, the Avian-X HDR Hen, is perfect for tempting aggressive, dominant toms. This decoy includes 2 removable head designs, resting and active. Next, the Avian-X HDR Heavy-Duty Feeder Hen, showcases a relaxed hen, easily inviting on-looking toms. Both hen decoys showcase enhanced flocking and realistic paint detail, adding to the realism. Again, Avian-X has made another collapsible decoy to withstand years of use. However, these decoy are still expensive and not the most compact design.

Most Realistic and Budget Friendly Set: Primos Hunting Lil Gobstopper Hen and Jake Combo

Primos really did a good job producing an affordable decoy combo. The set can be paired together or used separately giving you variety in your hunting set up. The use of authentic colors and posturing of these birds really set a realistic unintimidating setting. Nonetheless, gobblers cannot stand seeing a jake take their place next to a mature hen. The small design and collapsible feature really makes for a convenient choice for on the go hunters. With the price point landing around $60 you really cannot go wrong. Primos set you up to get the job done with this budget friendly duo. A con here is the use of plastic stakes, you may consider upgrading to a heavier duty metal stake. Even with an upgraded replacement you would be well under budget.

Most Economical: RedHead Foam Turkey Decoy 3-Pack

If you do not want to make a big investment, the RedHead Foam Decoy 3-Pack is the way to go. These are a simple foam set that come with a two-piece metal step-on stake. RedHead offers 3 different poses and lifelike painted feather detailing. The three of them together provide a perfect flock to attract that long beard you are waiting for. This set is light-weight, inexpensive and easily packable. If you have been on the fence, purchasing these decoy would be a perfect introduction without the large investment. However, the cons are they are not as realistic, the foam is not very durable and the longevity of use is uncertain.

Best Reaping: Montana Decoy Wiley Tom 3D

Disclaimer: Turkey reaping decoys are very effective, but should only be applied on private lands with no other hunters. Be sure to refer to your sates regulations concerning this method.

The Wiley Tom 3D decoy is one of a kind. Montana Decoys set the bar with a realistic versatile decoy. This decoy offers a 2D option with a see through window, perfect for reaping. Subsequently, the 3D option offers a versatile stake designs for a traditional stationary set up. This tom has the option to add a real tail or wing feathers as a replacement. The Wiley Tom 3D is ultra-light weight and fully collapsible. This decoy gives you the best of both worlds. It displays realism; yet, is ultra-light weight for a run and gun hunt. The price of this decoy is on the higher side and the light weight construction may affect the lifetime of use

Most Compact: Miss Purrfect XD

Montana Decoy’s Miss Purrfect XD Hen is arguably the best hen decoy on the market. This compact design fully collapses and for easy totting. It is ultra-light weight, yet, they did not skip on realism. This hen offers three position adjustments: standing, feeding and breeding. Feather cuts give the added element of subtle movement, which increases the realistic effect. The price point lands under $80 making it a mild investment. The downside is this decoy is not waterproof; and, because it is made up of fabric the probability of fading is higher.

Best Motion Decoy: Higdon Outdoors Motion Full Strut Tom

Disclaimer: Refer to state regulations regarding motion decoys before purchasing. Again, when using motion decoys or reaping method, use all safety precautions. Abstain for public land hunting with either method.

Higdon Outdoors Motion Tom decoy displays realistic motion and eye catching detail. The motion paired with the full strut features will surely have that longbeard ready to engage. This motioning tom decoy really makes for an irresistible set up. This decoy is battery operated and will take a moment to set up. You can locate an easy tote hand on the bottom of the fan. A magnetic fan mount allows you the option to replace the fan with a natural fan. The cons with this bird is the high cost and some state prohibit the use of motion decoys.

Final Thoughts

It is no secret that the turkey decoy business is booming. Companies continue to produce realistic birds and I see no end in sight. Hunting over decoys adds an upper hand to the hunter trying to lure in a tom. Having a decoy or a decoy spread gives the turkeys a visual endorsement to you calls. Do you need a decoy? No, but is a good addition and may be a crucial piece to securing your harvest. As always, be cautious when transporting decoys or harvested birds through the woods. When hunting over decoys be aware if other hunters are in the area. Also consider you proximity to the decoy, better safe than sorry. Happy hunting everyone!

Which one is better: MOA or MRAD?

The short answer: it’s your preference. If you use the metric system (meters/centimeters) then go for MRAD. But if you measure in the empirical system (yards/inches) then MOA may be easier.

If you want a more thorough answer along with an explanation of MOA vs MRAD, then keep on reading!

MOA vs MRAD: Why do we care?

Suppose you’re headed out on a hunting trip with your buddies.

You did your research, you read the best rifle scope guide, and you’re ready to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets are adjusting in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your reticle, and now your target has bounded off to another state.

The problem: he was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different systems of measurement.

When sighting rifle scopes, the reticle and turrets are used together to reach the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides an aiming point.

Your turret clicks and the hashes on your reticle can use one of two different systems of scope alignment: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t sight it in using either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between rifle scopes, here’s the only guide you’ll need to read.

What’s an MOA Scope?

M.O.A. stands for Minutes of Angle; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the distance to a target and MOA turrets correction for the bullet trajectory.

Basically the math breaks down to this: there are 360 degrees in a circle, and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. You can thank the Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA equals 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick-reference conversion chart. That way you don’t miss your prize buck while scribbling away on math problems.

MOA scopes aren’t a perfect system though.

Often calculations are made with 1 MOA at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you need to count on 100 yards with 1.05 MOA. Up to 100 yards there will be no problem with 1 to 100 comparison, but when shooting over longer distances you’ll be 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you’re only shooting at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use an MOA reticle scope on my AR-15 A2 after I removed the front sights for added cool guy points. I’ll show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What’s an MRAD Rifle Scope?

MRAD stands for milliradians (or MIL for short), and was originally developed for artillery in the late 1800s. It’s still the preferred method for military and police force operations to this day, where you’ll commonly here it referred to as a MIL-dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement that is equal to roughly 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one thousandth of a radian.

This system does not come out to make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections measuring 57.3 degrees each in an MRAD scope.

Thus, every circle has a circle circumference that is 6.28 radians long. Then each radian is going to be divided into 1,000 parts more, which is called Milliradians.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based scope, you will be calling it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4m using the metric system) equal to 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A that happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference of rifle scope.

The fight between MOA vs MRAD boils down to a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you use yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values are somewhat easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are indicated by 2 numbers only, while the cards with MOA are indicated with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the idea.

If you like other comparisons, check out my Nightforce SHV vs. Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system will take some self reflection, so buckle up.

If you normally think in meters or centimeters, then it is easier to calculate distance with a MOA. If you normally think in yards or inches, then MRAD should be your go-to.

And if you’re not going to calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between the MRAD vs MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium- and long-range shooting.

Another thing to take into account is that you also have to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, and so on. You’ll want to have a common language so you can communicate together without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system, swapping it out in the field with the best quick detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Most importantly, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes vs. second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Regardless of all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with an MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between rifle scopes.

FAQ

Editors’ review

The Full Throttle is the fastest bow ever produced, but nothing except the specification numbers would lead a shooter to believe that. For this much performance, the Full Throttle draws very well, feels balanced, holds steady, and has minimal hand shock. The valley is on the short side of things, but those wanting a speed bow already know this, and often shoot better being forced to pull hard into the back wall. It really is too bad short brace height speed bows get a bad reputation of being unforgiving and hard to shoot because many shooters will not even give the Full Throttle a legit chance because of it. However, those shooters willing to give it a test shot are going to be impressed no doubt.

Finish

PSE and Mossy Oak Camo go with each other like peanut butter and jelly. PSE has been finished with Mossy Oak for what seems like forever, and 2014 is no different. The finish options available make the entire lineup look spectacular, and the Full Throttle is no exception. Shooters have three options available without going through the PSE custom shop for an almost endless amount of finish options. Mossy Oak Break up Infinity is the traditional camo pattern option, joining an all black look, and the popular Skullworks edition pattern. All options look and feel great and are capable of withstanding the abuse hunters put on their equipment from being out in the wilderness.

Riser

Like the rest of the bow, the riser of the Full Throttle looks aggressive and mean. The riser cutouts give the bow an attitude that makes it look like no other bow currently on the market. The overall mass of the bow tips the scales at just over 4-pounds, but it by no means feels heavy even completely rigged. Although the cutouts and riser character is different than anything else PSE has this year, it is still obvious the Full Throttle is a member of the beloved X-Force line of things. The evolution of this bow has been great to watch, and it will be interesting to see how engineers improve on this solid foundation in the future. The Flex Cable Slide works like a limb and allows the shooter to fully customize the feel of the shot. Made from the same material as the split limbs, the cable slide adjustments allow for less torque while drawing and shooting the bow. While the arrow is drawn, the slide flexes in toward the arrow, after the arrow has been fired, the slide returns back to its normal position and allows for full clearance of the arrow and fletchings. The Backstop 2 rear mounting dampener does a fantastic job stopping the strings forward movement after the shot. The rubber haults the string, and cancels out noise and vibration very well transferring any residual vibration to the front mounting stabilizer hole. The riser shelf also features tuning and alignment marks as well to give tuners a good idea of where to start before fine-tuning for the perfect tear on paper. These engraved timing marks do not take away from the look of the bow, but adds a lot in functionality.

Grip

The chosen grip for the Full Throttle is fantastic in most shooters opinions, It is narrow and skinny and fits very well in the shooters hand for a repeatable shot. It may take a little getting used to for shooters coming from a thicker more contoured grip, but those interested in perfect hand placement for limited torque and improved accuracy will love the overall feel of this grip. The rubber sidepieces feel fine, but the grip will get chilly in cold hunting situations being a part of the machined riser material. PSE is aware of this, and sells a neoprene grip cover for those wanting a warmer option without compromising the great feel of the riser in hand.

Limbs

PSE bows, especially the X-Force lineup features highly pre-stressed split limbs to help store energy and power the arrow downrange. These limbs have undergone lots of testing to make sure they hold up to everything engineers demand of them. The limbs are adjustable in ten-pound increments and have four maximum weight configurations: 50, 60, 65, and 70-pounds. Although it would be nice to have a 40-pound weight range, most shooters interested in a speed bow are covered in the standard 30-pound range available. The Centerlock Speed Pockets keep the limbs fixed to the riser. Based on the successful Centerlock pockets, the speed pockets sport a shorter design, which helps add a it of speed while eliminating some extra weight as well. The overall package is adjustable, lightweight, and fast while functioning very well.To help dampen vibration, the limb bands from PSE do a great job at reducing even more noise and vibration. The old design required the limbs to be detached to replace or put on. This generation band can be added or removed with the external locking system featured on the rubber dampeners. Shooters wanting a more customized look will also appreciate the varied colors the bands are available in as well.

Eccentric System

The Full Throttle cam is a masterpiece in archery engineering producing the fastest speeds ever from a compound bow coming in at 370 feet per second. The cams look aggressive and produce amazing performance. With draw lengths available between 26.5 and 30-inches in half-inch increments, the Full Throttle is sure to fit almost all shooters interested in a speed bow. Made out of high strength aluminum, the draw length specific cams are designed with speed in mind. The cams also feature a 70% let off, which may take a little to get used to if shooters are coming from an 80% let off, but will perform very well.

Draw Cycle/Shootability

Unfortunately, speed bows have a terrible reputation for shootability and feel. That is before the Full Throttle! This bow is amazing and shoots very well in the hands of just about anyone. The aggressive cams are designed to be tough at first, but smoother towards the end, and that is exactly how they feel. No part of the draw cycle in unmanageable, and the draw cycle transitions are very smooth. Those giving the Full Throttle a legit test shot will rave about how awesome it feels from start to finish.The back wall is solid, but the valley is a little short for some personal preferences. However, many shooting experts prefer a shorter valley, which forces shooters into a proper push and pull technique leading to improved accuracy. It may take a little more getting used to for some, but those willing to give it a try are going to be pleasantly surprised at the difference it makes. After the shot, there is a slight vibration with the bare bow, but nothing a few accessories cannot correct. The bow holds well on target, and is a bit on the heavy side of things spec-wise. It does not feel heavy in hand or holding on target, but in comparison with some other lightweight models, there is a difference when held side by side.If for no other reason, shooters should try this bow out to get a feel for what speed truly feels like. The Full Throttle is an engineering victory for how well it draw and how fast it shoots. Even with the short brace height, the Full Throttle is a dream to hold and shoot. It stacks arrows and will produce enough kinetic energy for the majority of animals hunters set out for.

Usage Scenarios

The Full Throttle is a speed bow designed for hunting, but could help eliminate some yardage errors on the 3D course as well. With a 33 1/4- inch axel-to-axel measurement, the bow looks great on paper as a multipurpose bow even though it was designed with hunting in mind. For the $1099 price tag, it may help justify the cost for some shooters if it could be used for more than one purpose.

Comparisons

Both bows are speed demons, and great performance bows. They are designed to push the limits of speed in the compound world, and do so with a solid foundation and great shootability. With that being said, a large majority of shooters feel the PSE Full Throttle is an improvement in almost every way over the PSE X Force Omen Max. Although the Omen has a cult like following, shooters wanting speed also appreciate the smooth draw and improved back wall the Full Throttle has to offer.

Summary

Speed bows do not get the attention they deserve for the simple reason they are not giving a fair shot. Most shooters are going to walk in to a pro shop, take the Full Throttle off the shelf and test it out set at the same poundage as the bow they have at home, and walk out of the store complaining at how overpriced and hard to draw it is. Unfortunately, those shooters are missing the biggest advantage of shooting a speed bow, and that is the option to significantly decrease the draw weight and maintain the same solid performance. Shooters seriously interested is trying out the speed demon Full Throttle should have the speed of all the bows they are considering set the exact same and shoot them that way. Of course a Full Throttle is going to draw a bit differently than other bows, it is shooting 20 feet per second faster than most other fast bows on the market. Realistically, the Full Throttle can be shot 10-15-pounds lighter than what shooters are used to and still shoot the same speed. The Full Throttle is a great shooting bow in all areas, and deserves a test shot.

Reading Time: 5 minutes

The Lone Star State harbors world-class fishing opportunities, whether you’re a freshwater or a saltwater enthusiast. Because of this, thousands of prospective anglers flock to its waters each year, creating plenty of business for local guides. But before you can turn pro, you’ll need to make sure you’re properly licensed to run a fishing charter. So, today you’ll find out how to become a fishing guide in Texas.

From Striper fishing on Lake Texoma to offshore Tuna fishing in the Gulf, Texas is full of hot angling fun. And depending on what kind of waters you intend to guide in, the path to doing it legally differs. Generally, you need more licenses for saltwater than for freshwater.

To give us a first-hand glimpse into the process of becoming a fishing guide, we’ve consulted with Captain Mitch Deane of Laguna Madre Anglers. Along with all the relevant steps, we’ll include his personal insights throughout the article.

Saltwater

To legally run a saltwater fishing operation in Texas, you need the following three documents:

• Captain’s License (USCG)
• All-Water Fishing Guide License
• Boat Registration

Captain’s License

Your journey to becoming a Texas saltwater fishing guide begins with getting a USCG License. The course can take anywhere from a few days to a few months depending on how you choose to pace yourself. Generally, the classes last from 30 to 50 hours. The time it takes also depends on what kind of boat you intend to operate, with the 100-Ton USCG Master’s License course being the most extensive.

Before you’re issued your USCG credentials, you’ll be asked about your sea service. This encompasses the total amount of hours you’ve spent on the water since the age of 16. The minimum you need for a 6-pack license is 360 days, 90 of which must be earned in the last three years.

Other requirements include passing a physical and a drug test, as well as a background check so you can be issued your TWIC card. Finally, you’ll need a valid basic first-aid certificate.

All-Water Fishing Guide License

In Texas, you need something called an All-Water Fishing Guide License to legally operate saltwater fishing charters. This license costs $210 for residents and $1,050 for non-residents. Here you can find an overview of different licenses and fees.

Note that if you intend on guiding in saltwater on a boat, you’ll be asked to present your USCG License before you can be issued the All-Water one. Also, you’ll have to visit one of the TPWD (Texas Parks & Wildlife Department) offices in person to get this permit.

Boat Registration

Unlike in Florida or California, in Texas, the DMV (Department for Motor Vehicles) is not in charge of boat registration. Instead, the TPWD is responsible for that.

Only the owner can register a vessel. You can register either by mailing the PWD form with supplementary documents to the TPWD, or in person at a local tax collector’s office. You have to submit the boat’s bill of sale as well as the manufacturer’s statement of origin alongside your boat registration.

Depending on the length of your boat, you’ll pay between $32 to $150 to register your boat in Texas.

Boat Insurance

For most Texas fishing guide businesses, boat insurance is not mandatory. The exception is Party Boat operations, which need to have limited liability insurance covering at least $300,000. A party boat is broadly defined as any boat over 30 feet in length that takes more than six passengers.

Of course, we recommend that every charter operator purchases boat insurance. Insurance can be the difference between losing your boat or business and staying protected, in many cases. There are various packages you can get and many even cover the customers you’ll be taking fishing.

Gulf of Mexico Fishing License for Federal Waters

For fishing in federal waters in the Gulf of Mexico (over 9 miles out), you require a Coastal Pelagics permit and/or a Reef Fish permit. This depends on which species you’re targeting. Unfortunately, you can only buy it from someone who already has it. The Gulf Council, which is responsible for managing the federal waters of the Gulf of Mexico, hasn’t issued new permits since 2003.

Freshwater

For anglers who grew up fishing the Lone Star State’s lakes and want to try their hand at guiding on them, the first order of business is to check if the waters are navigable. If not, all you need is a Freshwater Fishing Guide License. It costs $132 whether you’re a Texas resident or not.

On the other hand, if you intend to fish in navigable waters, such as the Sabine River and its lakes, you’ll need a Captain’s License. In this case, the process is the same as if you were trying to qualify as a saltwater guide.

Starting Out As a Texas Fishing Guide

The above is what Capt. Mitch had to say when we asked him to give some tips to new guides. It can be tough entering the guiding business, and in the captain’s own words – you’re often judged by the kind of fish you return to the dock with.

Everyone knows how nice it is to be out on the water fishing, but only guides know how much effort it takes to get out there and consistently put people on fish day after day. It requires skill, knowledge, and a whole lot of perseverance.

Also, don’t forget who it’s all about – customers! Sharpening your people skills and making sure everyone enjoys their time with you even when the fishing is at its slowest is how you’ll secure a legacy as a guide.

On that note, there are different avenues to get clientele. These range from word-of-mouth and building your own website, to partnering with one of the marinas in Texas. Some of the popular hubs include Galveston Yacht Basin, Seabrook Marina, Corpus Christi Marina, and Marker 37. But it really all depends on which part of the coast you’re fishing and what amenities you need.

Of course, you can also list on FishingBooker once you’re ready to begin guiding and let us hook you up with new customers. After that, it’ll be your job to ensure they have a great experience and return to fish with you!

Not from Texas? For which state or country would you like to see a licensing guide next? Let us know in the comments!

We do our best to always produce thorough, well-researched articles. That being said, the information given here should be taken “as is” and is not a replacement for professional or legal advice.

See how to store Chicken of the Woods in 3 simple ways. This will help you harvest a lot and still keep your mushrooms fresh for up to 12 months.

The season for Chicken of the Woods is typically from June to December. At least you can find them growing during this time frame. That means it is available for almost 6 months out of the year.

This means you can find it fresh a lot of the time. But you still may want to have some available the other 6 months of the year to eat as well.

Another thing about the Chicken of the Woods is when harvesting there will typically be A LOT of it.

How to Harvest Chicken of the Woods

You have 2 choices when you find it:

1. Only harvest enough that you can eat in 7 days fresh.
2. Harvest all of it and learn how to preserve Chicken of the Woods so it doesn’t go to waste.

If you choose to leave some just be aware that if someone else finds it then it will be gone or it could dry out before you are ready to harvest the rest of it.

One thing to note is that Chicken of the Woods (laetiporus sulphureus) is completely different mushroom from the Hen of the Woods (Maitake).

Before we get into how to store Chicken of the Woods, lets take a look at how to clean it before you store it…

How To Clean Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

When it comes to cleaning the Chicken of the Woods it really doesn’t change to much from any other mushroom that you want to clean.

The main goal is to get it clean without it being wet for too long. If it is wet for to long the mushroom will start to absorb the water and get mushy.

Cleaning procedures:

1. Trim away any tough or bug eaten pieces.
2. Brush off as mush dirt as you can with a semi-wet mushroom brush.
3. Give it a quick rinse and rub down to get any other dirt off.
4. Immediately dry it completely with a paper towel (gently).

Now let’s take a look at the different options on how to store Chicken of the Woods mushroom…

How To Store Chicken of the Woods Mushroom

The method you choose in storing Chicken of the Woods mushrooms will basically depend on how long you want it to stay fresh as well as how you plan to eat it… Let’s learn more about preserving Chicken of the Woods.

1) Refrigerator

If you plan on eating your Chicken of the Woods within the next 7 days then you could use the refrigerator method.

Storing procedure:

1. Place the Chicken of the Woods mushroom in into a paper bag.
2. Put the paper bag into you refrigerator’s vegetable drawer.

Some people have had them last up to 3 weeks this way but after 1 week you would be pushing your luck.

If you plan to eat it all year round then you could store it in the freezer… Let’s see how to freeze Chicken of the Woods.

2) Freezer: How to Freeze Chicken of the Woods Mushrooms

If you plan on harvesting a whole lot of Chicken of the Woods for future consumption then you might want to consider freezing Chicken of the Woods. This is my favorite method!

Storing procedures:

1. Cut up your Chicken of the Woods into half inch shanks.
2. Place as many pieces into a big zip lock bag as you can.
3. Place the bag into the freezer.

This method has been show to keep your mushrooms super fresh for up to 12 months. When your ready to eat them just take them out and throw them onto the skillet (No need to thaw them out first).

They don’t seem to lose their flavor after being frozen so you won’t have to worry about them.

The cool thing about the Chicken of the Woods is that it can be stored without cooking it first. Many mushrooms (like the button mushroom) need to be cooked prior to freezing or they will lose their texture and flavor. This one doesn’t!

3) Drying Chicken of the Woods

If you goal is to use Chicken of the Woods in Soups then you could consider using a food dehydrator to dry out your mushroom.

Drying procedure:

1. Slice your Chicken of the Woods into half inch chunks.
2. Place the chunks all over the dehydrator tray so they are not touching.
3. Set the temperature to low and allow to run for 8 to 10 hours.
4. Place the dried chunks into a sealed mason jar or a zip lock bag and keep in a cool dry place.

If you do decide to dehydrate them then you can later put them in a soup to reconstitute them. If you want to reconstitute them without putting them in a soup then you can soak them in water for 15 – 60 minutes and then strain the water out.

Conclusion

Now you should have the confidence to know how to store this choice edible mushrooms so that you can enjoy it all year round.

This means next time you are out and come across the Chicken of the Woods you don’t have to worry about harvesting more then you can eat because you know that you will have 12 months to eat what you pick.

If you will be eating your mushrooms within the next 7 days you would use the refrigerator method otherwise you would want to use the freezer or drying methods.

Once it is time to cook your mushroom you may be interested in checking out our other article on the top 3 healthy ways to cook the Chicken of the Woods here:

In that article we cover the following healthy recipes:

1. Deep fried Chicken of the Woods
2. Sauteed Chicken of the Woods
3. Chicken of the Woods soup

This meaty textured mushroom is packed with protein, tastes like chicken and is a great substitute for meat. Don’t eat it raw though because it could cause gastric distress. It also has some pretty amazing medicinal benefits.

Thanks for reading and if you have any other ideas on how to store the Chicken of the Woods we would love to hear about it in the comments below!

You can find Native American artifacts here if you know where to go and what to look for.

Story + Artwork by Michele Roldán-Shaw

It took me a few years to find my prize spearpoint. I’d put in the time ambling along dirt roads — especially after a rain — and combing freshly ploughed fields, as my old-timer informants advised. They made it seem like finding artifacts around here was easy, and certainly the points and potsherds strewn around their homes bore this out. Yet somehow for all my wanderings I never managed to find more than a few broken flint chips.

Until my 24th birthday. I was on a little solo expedition near the Donnelly Wildlife Management Area, hiking deep in the heart of extensive dirt tracks that crisscross woods and wetlands. The road looked like it had turned to a mud bog in summer rains, then gotten baked dry by a merciless sun until it split into a network of cracks — prime hunting ground for arrowheads. They get unearthed this way and sometimes conveniently display themselves on little raised pedestals after all the mud has washed off around them. Yet I wasn’t actively looking that day, just walking and talking on my cell phone, when suddenly I happened to glance down and there was a beautiful 3-inch-long spearhead! It had a light buff color with blushes of rich ochre and was museum quality with only the tiniest chip missing from the point. I couldn’t believe it. A short distance away I found a nice white arrowhead and another slate gray point with the butt end broken off. I’ve never found another arrowhead since.

America has been home to human beings for millennia. But exactly how many? It was long thought that the first people arrived 13,000 years ago, yet in recent years that date has been pushed further and further back. South Carolina made a memorable contribution to the debate when archeologists at the Topper Site, an ancient chert quarry on the banks of the Savannah River in Allendale County, announced compelling evidence of human activity dating back 50,000 years. As with any sensational new finding in the scientific community, it caused international controversy and is still disputed today.

Here in the Lowcountry Native inhabitants were laid back seafood eaters, as their old middens of oyster, mussel and clam shells attest. But they also enjoyed an abundance of wild game: deer, rabbit, coon, squirrel, quail, wild turkey, waterfowl, even bear and bison that once roamed this far east. The land we now stand on has been littered with projectile points. Big spearheads are impressive, but I find the tiny “bird points” most fascinating because of their minute size and the skill it must have taken to manufacture them. I always thought that bird point referred to the intended prey; after all, birds are small, so the arrowhead should be too, right? But in fact these beautiful little killers were meant to take down big game (or human enemies!) as their small size made them deadlier by increasing the speed of the projectile.

An arrowhead found locally might be more than 10,000 years old, which is exciting to ponder. A less happy thought is what happened to the descendants of those people: genocide, displacement, decimation by disease, attempted erasure from the collective culture. We can’t change the past — but we can honor those whose mere continued presence bears testament to the strength of their people. According to a 2016 study, 13,000 Native Americans live in South Carolina. Of the 29 tribes thought to have been living here at the time of European contact, just 10 are currently recognized by the state government, and only one has federal recognition. But indigenous people are still here. They are not merely an ancient history of arrowheads, potsherds and middens. They are the original Americans, and they deserve the dignity of acknowledgment.

Sharp points

The best places to look: dirt roads, plowed fields, eroding banks

If you find one: visit projectilepoints.net to identify the type

Worth a trip: the Smithsonian Museum of the American Indian in Washington, D.C., which has a gorgeous collection of hundreds of arrow and spearpoints arrayed in an artful swirl

Contemporary tribes in South Carolina: Pee Dee, Waccamaw, Catawba, Cherokee, Edisto, Santee, Sumter, Natchez, Yamasee, Chicora

The U.S. military drove the development of both cartridges, but the similarities—other than the mandatory bullet, case, propellant and primer—pretty much end there in a .45-70 Gov’t vs. .308 Win. comparison. The former is one of the oldest designs still in commercial production, with good reason. The other isn’t exactly a youngster, celebrating its 70th birthday this year, but it’s still serves with honor with our armed forces across the globe in its lower-pressure 7.62 NATO iteration.

The secret to their longevity is enviable performance, but in vastly different applications. They rarely, if ever, shine in the same duties. A look at their numbers tells the tale.

History

.45-70 Gov’t

The U.S. Army adopted the .45-70 Gov’t in 1873, three years before Gen. Custer’s ill-fated last stand. The military requirements it met prior to approval included 4-inch groups at 100 yards.

Today groups that wide are almost unheard of, even from abused rifles. It was a different time, though, the original cartridges used blackpowder for propellant and gun making wasn’t as precise. Bullet manufacturing was far from scientific, too.

The official designation at introduction was .45-70-450, with the middle number reflecting powder charge and the last indicating bullet weight. Subsequent testing indicated heavier projectiles increased effective range, so in 1879 (too late for the 7th Cavalry, not that it would have helped) the .45-70-500 became standard issue. The military put an end to the cartridge’s 19-year run in 1892 when it adopted the .30-40 Krag, although rifles in the older chambering continued use for some time.

Combine modern smokeless powder, improved projectiles and CNC-produced rifles and one-inch groups at 100 yards are no longer unicorn rare with the cartridge. At long-distance, however, the trajectory and energy still fall in dramatic fashion.

The .45-70 Gov’t term is shorthand for .45-70 Government, but there are other labels. Some call it the .45-70 Springfield (for the first rifle chambered for it) or simply .45-70. Hornady includes it in a parenthetical listing as the 1895 Marlin.

It’s earned a variety of names, likely a byproduct of age., but the same can’t be said for the .308 Win.

.308 Win.

Members of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization officially adopted the 7.62 NATO cartridge in 1954, two years after Winchester introduced the .308 Win. to civilians. The pair are virtually identical, although the former’s slightly lower pressure allows it to run safely in either chambering—.308 Win. ammo, on the other hand, is not ideal for guns chambered for 7.62 NATO.

Accuracy from the cartridge is almost legendary. It’s used in long-distance competition to this day and favored by some of the world’s best precision shooters. The records it set were staggering, although many—likely all soon—are being eclipsed by a new slew of .300 and .338 Magnums, .50 BMGs and others.

Its ageless versatility took the spotlight, however, during the global war on terrorism, when operations began in Afghanistan. Engagements there were often ridgeline to ridgeline, out of the effective range of the standard-issue M4 and 5.56 NATO cartridge. Expensive precision rifles designed for serious long distance aren’t widely available, so armorers came up with an innovative solution.

M14s chambered for 7.62 NATO mothballed for decades were retrofitted with modern furniture. Issued to designated marksmen within platoons they could stretch the distance and neutralize insurgent snipers who, until then, could rain deadly fire on platoons largely unencumbered.

That’s just the primary advantage of the .308 Win. and its 7.62 NATO fraternal twin. Despite the slight and virtually undetectable physical different, both are predictable in flight and deliver fight-stopping energy at distance.

For that reason, and the fact it can run in every firearm design, the .308 Win. is often claimed to be the most popular hunting cartridge in the United States. The short-action cartridge gained a whole new generation of enthusiasts with its uncompromising performance in AR-10s.

Ballistics

Velocity and Energy

The .40-70 Gov’t bullet has a diameter of .458 inch and the projectiles loaded in today’s cartridges are, in most cases, heavy enough to put big game down with one-shot authority—with proper shot placement at moderate distance. Federal Premium’s 300-grain Trophy Bonded Bear Claw load is one of the heavyweights availably today, but it helps illustrate the dramatic ballistic difference for a .45-70 Gov’t vs. .308 Win. comparison.

The bullet leaves Federal’s test barrel at 1,850 fps. The sheer mass of that projectile, however, means it is carrying 2,280 ft.-lbs. of energy at the muzzle.

The .308 Win. has a bullet diameter of .308 inch. Federal Premium’s 180-grain Trophy Bonded load in the cartridge exits the gun at 2,620 fps with 2,743 ft.-lbs. of energy—the winner by a wide margin. At 300 yards it has slowed down to 2,277 fps but still manages to have 1,789 ft.-lbs. of knockdown power. At that point, the above .45-70 Gov’t load’s figure drops to only 797, roughly half.

Even with lighter bullets in the .45-70 Gov’t the drop-off is dramatic. Hornady’s LEVERevolution line includes a 250-grain load that manages 2,025 fps leaving the barrel with 2,276 ft.-lbs. of energy. Despite the higher initial speed, its energy figure still plummets to 636 at 300 yards. At 200, if you’re wondering, it’s 918.

The figures may leave some wondering why the cartridge has survived for nearly 150 years. Its secret lives inside somewhere inside 150 yards, where most hunters in the United States take their big game. It’s there that the energy is sufficient and, when combined with the wider bullet diameter, it’s a combination that fills tags. It really shines for big game up close—tough ones, like American bison and big bears.

At 100 yards the Federal .45-70 Gov’t load carries a 1,569 ft.-lb. punch. Hornady’s lighter bullet delivers 1,450. Add modern bullet design and both hit with tag-filling authority.

Legacy

It also oozes nostalgia. The single-shot Springfield Trapdoor rifles carried by Gen. Armstrong Custer’s troopers at the Little Bighorn were chambered in .45-70-Gov’t. The bullets their cartridges wore weighed an even more formidable 405 grains.

Its design, however, precludes use in semi-automatic firearms. The profile is even a challenge when it comes to bolt-action rifles. Not many exist and their scarcity makes them popular among collectors.

The .308 Win., however, lends itself to reliable feeding and extraction in every method of operation. It’s available in semi-automatics, like the AR-10, bolt actions, single shots and even lever actions.

.45-70 vs. .308 Exterior Ballistics

The .308 Win. also has a flatter trajectory. Zeroed at 100 yards, the Federal 300-grain .45-70 Gov’t bullet drops 13.4 inches at 200 yards and more than four feet at 300. The company’s 180-grain .308 Win. load, with the same zero drops 3.4 inches at 200 yards and 15.4 inches at 300. The difference is huge and widens with distance.

Add a 10-mph full value wind and the .308 drifts 6.9 inches at 300 yards. At that distance, in the same breeze, the company’s .45-70 Gov’t load has moves more than two feet. Doping the wind is not an endeavor easily done by a novice, and a challenge for most experienced enthusiasts.

Any discussion of a cartridge’s potential accuracy is dubious, at best. There’s no doubt today’s cutting-edge CNC gun manufacturing has tightened groups in every firearm, regardless of chambering. One-hole groups are possible with either cartridge, in the right conditions. The exterior ballistics, however, make it obvious that the .458-inch diameter projectile requires a skilled marksman behind the trigger and quality ammo.

As a result, the .45=70 Gov’t has a relatively reputation for being inaccurate. Its origins as an early military cartridge laid that foundation.

Which One is Best?

Deciding which cartridge is best always comes down to individual preference and application. The .45-70 Gov’t is big, heavy and hits with undeniable authority at medium distance. With proper shot placement it will usually convince a big bear that its charge wasn’t such a good idea. It falls off quickly when things get long, although those lever-actions or single-shots are a blast from the past. They also add challenge to many favorite pursuits.

There’s a virtually unlimited number of firearms chambered for .308 Win. Regardless of what it’s in, the cartridge performs, is usually less expensive, much easier to find in the store, and if you’re going to stretch the distance wins by a wide margin. It’s businesslike and precise.

You can’t go wrong with either cartridge, but it’s a rare knowledgeable gun owner who doesn’t have at least one .308 Win. in their gun safe—and there’s good reason for that fact.

With their towering manes, searing stares, and distinctive roar, lions have been the symbol of power for centuries. But just how powerful are lion bites?

The lion has a deadly bite force of 650 psi. While this may seem like a powerful bite force at first, the lions surprisingly have one of the weaker bite forces when it comes to big cats and predators. However, this weaker bite force doesn’t affect a lion’s ability to hunt its prey.

This article will cover the bite force of the lion and how it compares to the bite forces of other big cats in the jungle.

A Lion’s Bite force

The lion’s average bite force has been recorded to be around 650 PSI. When comparing this to a human’s bite force of a mere 150 PSI, this may look extremely strong, but lions have a weak bite force compared to the bigger cats.

A lion’s most substantial bite has been estimated to be close to 1000 PSI. The strength of the bite has to do with many different factors as well. The maturity and age of a lion are essential factors, coupled with the sex of the lion and what teeth it uses.

While female lions are usually the main hunters of the pride, a male lion sometimes joins in to take down larger and stronger prey.

It’s understandable how the lion doesn’t have the strongest bite force, but then the question presents itself, how did the lion rise to be the king of the jungle?

The answer here lies in technique. Lions attack the throat, generally a weaker area of an animal, and don’t require a massive force to kill their prey.

Lion Bite Force Compared

Being the king of the jungle comes with a lot of comparison and competition.

At times, it may be other bigger cats or hyenas posing competition and trying to fight the lion for power or a dead carcass of prey.

Other times, it may be an article comparing a lion’s bite force to other predators in the jungle.

1. Bite Force Compared To Tigers

Tigers are one of nature’s finest and deadliest predators in the world. Ferocious and ruthless when it comes to hunting its prey.

A tiger’s bite force is estimated to be an average of 1050 psi; that is almost similar to the bite maximum bite force estimated for a wholly grown male lion which is 1000 psi but far greater than their average.

The superior bite force of a tiger makes it understandable why a tiger prefers hunting alone because, with a bite force that strong, few animals can survive a tiger’s attacks.

2. Bite Force Of a Great White Shark

With the release of the highly acclaimed movie Jaws in 1975, the great white sharks became famous as the big bad predators of the ocean. It would be fair to compare the bite force of a lion with the great white shark.

Unfortunately, accurate measurements are difficult to come by, with some estimates as low as 625 psi and others as high as 4,000 psi.

If you thought measuring the bite force of a lion was difficult, try adding the underwater element into the mix.

3. Bite Force Of a Dog

Dogs are known as man’s best friend, but their bite force is dangerous. Generally, dogs can bite with a force of 325 PSI.

However, some bigger breeds of dogs, such as Mastiffs, German Shepherds, and Rottweilers, have a bite force closer to 500 PSI.

Although this might not feel that strong at first, a dog’s smaller size makes it difficult for them to have a stronger bite force.

Final Thoughts on Lion’s Bite Force

The lion is a highly magical creature that oozes class with every feature it possesses. It is distinguishable, and being the jungle king comes with many scrutinies.

A lion has a bite force of 650 psi, and although it may not be as powerful as the bite force of other big cats, it is essential to realize that the lion is efficient with its jaw and bite force.

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