The ability to hit a fast-moving bird is the most important aspect of teal hunting, but having the right choke in your shotgun when the bird finally commits to the decoys is second. In this guide, we’ll take a look at the three choke tubes that work well for hunting teal and why you should consider them.

The most popular steel shot sizes for teal hunting are #6 and #4. Choosing a choke tube that can deliver uniform patterns at the right distances is critical for early teal season success. Carlson’s Modified choke happens to pattern #6 shot extremely well, producing consistent results at 30 yards.

Top 3 Best Choke Tubes for Teal Hunting

These are the three chokes that you should consider for your next teal hunt that can provide dense and consistent patterns downrange with steel shot. As always, patterning your shotgun is extremely important to find out which choke tubes and ammo work best out of it.

1) Carlson’s Modified Choke Tube

Carlson’s is one of the most trusted choke tube brands in the industry and their extended modified choke is perfect for teal hunting. It delivers a dense pattern out to 35 yards with steel #6’s and makes for a versatile all-around choke tube for most teal hunting situations.

Regardless if you’re hunting the rice fields of Texas or the rivers of Arkansas, this choke performs exceptionally well at medium ranges over decoys for teal. #4 and #6 shot happen to be the sweet spot with this choke, and fast flying teal just can’t escape it. This is the TOP pick.

2) Patternmaster Code Black Choke

The Patternmaster Code Black is a top-of-the-line choke tube that provides unmatched performance for long-range teal hunting situations. If you’re thinking of picking up a new choke not just for teal, but to use all season long, this is the choke to consider.

The Patternmaster Code Black is great for field hunts, ponds, lakes, and rivers where the range of shots varies and you’ll be able to handle it all without having to change chokes mid hunt. Patternmaster works with internal studs that halt the wad just before it exits the barrel, resulting in a controlled wad seperation that increases pellet distribution and limits flyer pellets. Expect it to pattern closer to a full choke. This is the TOP pick for MAX range.

3) Carlson’s Cremator Choke Tube

The Carlson’s Cremator choke tube is an excellent choice for teal hunters who need a versatile choke that can perform well with a variety of shotshell loads. This choke tube uses a unique design that consists of multiple tapers, which work together to provide a consistent shot pattern. This makes the Cremator ideal for hunting situations where you need to be able to adjust your shooting style quickly and accurately.

The Cremator is equipped with triple shot technology which gradually compresses the shot column as it exits the barrel to prevent deformation. This is the perfect choke for medium range teal hunting with #4 and #6 shot. Carlson’s Cremator can produce 80% of pellets inside a 30-inch circle at 40 yards with the right ammo. This is the BUDGET pick.

Why a modified choke works best for Teal Hunting

Modified chokes are the middle ground of choke diameters (0.705”) and because of this are versatile in many different hunting situations. Chokes in modified can handle teal decoying close as well as long fast-moving passing shots as they attempt to exit.

Modified choke tubes work especially well with #6 steel shot and it’s not uncommon to pattern this choke and ammo combination and receive 80% coverage in a 30-inch circle at 30 yards. Steel shot also works well with an improved cylinder choke tube like the Carlson’s extended choke mentioned above.

How to hunt Teal

Teal are some of the easiest waterfowl to hunt during the special early season. They typically decoy with reckless abandonment and are suckers for spinning wing decoys. Your choke setup will likely need to be tailored to the types of teal you will be hunting and how they react to decoy spreads.

Teal hunting in tight spaces can limit which chokes are best. If most of your shots are in thick brush or dense vegetation, shots within 20-25 yards where an Improved Cylinder (0.715”) which opens the shot up quicker will be the top choice.

For teal in open terrain like rice fields where birds may pass from further out, the modified (0.705”) or improved modified (0.695”) are the top choices that will keep your pattern together for shots between 30 and 40 yards.

Teal Choke Tubes and Ranges

• Improved Cylinder (10-20 yards) – Up close decoying shots
• Modified (20-40 yards) – Decoying and medium passing shots
• Improved Modified (35-45 yards) – Long range decoying shots
• Full Choke (40-60 yards) – High flying birds over 40 yards

Ballistics show that a 1300 fps load of steel #6 shot enters 0.90″ of gel penetration at 30.5 yards, while a 1300 fps load of steel #4 shot enters 0.90″ of gel penetration at 33.4 yards. These are the max ranges for #6 and #4 steel shot while teal hunting.

The chart above shows the recommended choke tube and range in yards for teal hunting. Modified is the best choke for typical teal hunting shots that include close decoying and bird exiting scenarios. Improved cylinder is the best for close flushing shots just as the teal rises. Improved modified (IM) and full chokes are best for longer range shots after the bird is exiting and gained full momentum.

Teal Hunting Field Tips

• Get a set of improved cylinder, modified, and improved modified chokes
• This will let you switch chokes as conditions change
• Steel #6’s and an IC choke tube work well on close birds
• Keep shots below 40 yards, know your ammo and choke limitations
• A full choke may be needed for those days where birds are skirting the decoys
• Windy days, especially those with cross winds, you may need to up your pellet size
• Pattern your shotgun to find out what choke and ammo work best
• If using a tight choke, allow a bird decoying close to get distance before shooting

Modified choke tubes can take a lot of the guess work out of teal hunting. They usually work well with most ammo and won’t damage the birds at close ranges.

Having a set of choke tubes in your hunting vest or backpack is the best option that works well for changing conditions. You can tailor your setup to how teal are responding while in the field and changing a choke only takes seconds with a good choke wrench.

What to expect

When it comes to choosing the right choke tube for hunting teal, Carlson’s Modified choke stands out from its competitors. The Carlson’s Modified choke is engineered with a unique design that provides consistent and even shot patterns, resulting in better accuracy and a higher precision. Unlike most of its competitors, the Modified choke ensures that the shot is evenly distributed, reducing the chances of having holes or gaps in your pattern. Overall, the Carlson’s Modified choke is a top performer, delivering outstanding results that set it apart from the competition.

Bottom Line

Teal hunting requires a choke size geared toward the situation at hand. #6 and #4 steel shot are popular pellet sizes most teal hunters use. Naturally, finding a choke tube that patterns these loads well is key to success in the field.

A modified choke such as the extended chokes that Carlson’s offers work well for an all-around teal hunting choke tube with small steel shot. The Patternmaster Code Black and Carlson’s Cremator choke are two options for chokes you can use for teal season and also rely on in the general season as well.

Hunting teal and figuring out how the birds are responding will help determine which choke size you may need. Shots on teal in open terrain tend to be longer where a modified or improved modified are best. Teal in dense vegetation and brush may only require an improved cylinder for shots inside 20 yards.

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November 23, 2022

With gift-buying season upon us, it’s natural for gun owners who enjoy target shooting, hunting, collecting or just plain plinking to want to share their enjoyment of firearms with others. What better way to do that than to gift a firearm to a family member, close friend or relative?

Consider a Gift Card

The Bureau of Alcohol. Tobacco, Firearms and Explosives (ATF) recommends that if you want to give someone a new firearm, rather than going to a gun store, buying it on your own and giving it to, say, your father, consider instead purchasing a gift certificate from that retailer and giving it to dad as his present. That way he’ll get the exact gun he wants, and there’s no question about who is “the actual buyer of the firearm,” which is a question any purchaser must certify on the Federal Form 4473 at the time of purchase.

Buying a Gun as a Gift

Let’s assume, however, you do not want to give a gift card because you want to give “Old Betsy,” your favorite old deer rifle, to your son or daughter or you want to see the joy on their face when they unwrap their present. The first question you then must ask is whether the intended recipient can legally own a firearm at all. Remember, you can never under any circumstances transfer a firearm to someone you know — or have reasonable cause to believe — legally can’t own one. That’s a federal felony, so be careful. Pre-January 1, 1899, antique firearms are generally exempt but be safe and check with your retailer or local law enforcement before you hand over your prized possession.

The next question is whether the person can own the gifted firearm where he or she lives. With more than 20,000 different gun laws on the books, even the kinds of firearms that law-abiding citizens can own vary from place to place; for example, juveniles (under age 18), generally speaking, are precluded by law from possessing a handgun, and some states restrict certain types of firearms and magazine sizes. Check out the ATF website for an overview of local laws or contact your state’s attorney general’s office.

It is legal to purchase a firearm from a licensed firearm retailer that you intend to give as a gift. There’s no law that prohibits a gift of a firearm to a relative or friend who lives in your home state. However, whether you purchase a new firearm or want to gift a gun you already own, keep in mind that some states (California, Colorado, Connecticut, Delaware, New York, Oregon, Rhode Island, Washington State) and the District of Columbia require you to transfer a firearm through a local licensed firearm retailer so an instant background check will be performed to make sure the recipient is not legally prohibited from owning the gun. Maryland and Pennsylvania require a background check for a private-party transfer of a handgun. There are exceptions*, so it’s important to carefully check the law of your state or ask your local firearm retailer.

If the person you want to give the gift of a firearm to does not reside in the same state as you, then under federal law you have to ship the firearm to a licensed firearm retailer in the state where the recipient lives who can transfer the firearm after a background check.

Shipping a Firearm

You can only ship a handgun by common carrier (but not U.S. mail) and a long gun by U.S. mail or common carrier to a federally licensed retailer, but not to a non-licensed individual in another state. With all carriers, federal law requires you to declare that your package contains an unloaded firearm. To be safe, always consult your carrier in advance about its regulations for shipping firearms.

Giving a Gun as a Gift

As you can see, there are a lot of things to consider when making a gift of firearm to ensure you do it properly. Using a gift certificate from a firearm retailer near where the gift recipient lives might be the best solution in order to avoid legal pitfalls and state law variations.

It’s often an emotional moment when a treasured family heirloom is passed down to the next generation. These moments are part of what our cherished enjoyment of firearms is all about and represent that unique bond that sportsmen and sportswomen have with their fellow enthusiasts.

So, enjoy the holidays and do it right!

*In New Mexico, for example, a background check is required on “sales” of firearms—those transferred for a fee or other consideration—but not when a person transfers ownership of a firearm without compensation or exchanging anything of value.

Find Firearm Retailers Near You

Other Gift Options for Target Shooters

Not sure what to get the target shooters in your life this holiday season? We’ve got you covered with these 10 great gift ideas.

More Ways to Give

Those who donate to worthy causes, consider making a gift in support of Project ChildSafe®, NSSF’s award-winning community gun safety program that helps prevent firearm accidents, thefts and misuse, including suicide.

The Project ChildSafe Safety Sweepstakes has opened and offers seven great prizes manufactured or donated by Vault Pro, Beretta, Leica, OpticsPlanet, Mossberg, Kalispel, GTM/CZY and Yeti. Anyone may enter, and those who are planning to attend SHOT Show® can enter during the registration process. Funds raised help support NSSF’s Project ChildSafe firearm safety program.

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Categories: BP Item, Education, Featured, Government Relations, Hunting, Retailers, Shooting, Top Stories

Where to find

Ramps occur in Eastern North America from Georgia to Canada. They’re easily recognized by their 1, 2, or 3 broad leaves measuring 1 to 3 1/2 inches wide and 4 to 12 inches long.

There are a couple of varieties:

Allium tricoccum var. tricoccum: These have wider leaves and red stems.

Allium tricoccum var. burdickii: Also known as narrow-leaf or white ramps.

White-stemmed narrow-leaf ramps (Allium tricoccum var. burdickii) tend to have a milder flavor than the red-stemmed variety. They also have smaller leaves (up to 1 1/2 inches wide), as well as smaller bulbs.

Ramp leaves appear from March to April and last until around mid-May to June depending on the local climate. As temperatures get warmer, the leaves will turn yellow and die.

Look for them underneath dense deciduous forest canopy in soil that’s rich with organic matter.

In general, Narrow-leaf ramps are more likely to be found in more well-drained, dryer woods, while red-stemmed ramps prefer damper soil.

That being said, it’s not uncommon to find both varieties growing side-by-side.

There are some dangerous look-alikes so be sure the plants you pick smell like onion or garlic.

Do not pick the dangerous Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis) or False hellebore (Veratrum genus) by mistake.

Again, make sure they smell like onion or garlic. If you’re unsure, let a knowledgeable forager confirm your find or just pass on picking.

It may also be helpful to consult multiple references for more positive identification.

Sustainability

Unfortunately for ramps, they’re super-trendy these days. Chefs, foodies, and other ramp-lovers flock to the mountains by the thousands for a chance to bask in their gourmet-ness.

“Ramp feeds,” known as ramp festivals now, have been taking a toll on ramp populations for years and the added pressure of their recent popularity has really put a hurting on their numbers.

The implications affect conservationists and foodies alike. Cindy and I are conservationists first and foragers second. What this means for us is that ramping is not only unsustainable, but it gets more arduous each year as we climb higher and longer to find undiscovered ramp patches.

Traditionally, the Cherokee dug, and still dig, ramps by leaving the roots. This is done by cutting off the bottom of the bulb with a knife while it’s still in the ground (more on the how-to below).

How to harvest

If you plan on digging ramps on public land, you’ll want to look into whether local regulations restrict harvest amounts, where harvesting is permitted, etc.

In West Virginia where we live, as of 2020, the Forest Service allows harvesting for personal use only – anyone can dig up to two gallons of ramps at a time. That’s about the volume of a plastic grocery bag or, according to the USFS, about 180 plants with leaves and roots.

And digging is no longer permitted in some parks due to declining ramp populations, so please be aware of local rules and conservation issues.

Here are a few things you’ll need for harvesting ramps:

• Time This one is really important. It’s way too easy to run up to the ramp patch after work with good intentions of sustainbly digging ramps. You get to the trailhead at 5:30pm and it’s 6pm by the time you’re digging ramps. The sun’s about to slip behind the mountains and you’re in a sudden hurry to get your ramps and get out of there. So you abandon your plan and jerk as many roots out of the ground as you can before running out. DON’T DO IT!

  Sustainably harvesting takes more time, so you really need to make allowance for it. Plus it’s a lot more fun to have a leisurely walk into the woods, not worrying about racing the waning light. If you can’t give yourself the time to do it, please consider taking only greens and leaving the bulbs undisturbed. You won’t need nearly as much time if you only harvest leaves!

• Sharp hunting knife Make sure it’s sharp! A dull knife will do more harm than good – you’ll end up mutilating the bulb so it’s not useable as food and not viable as a plant. You may even want to touch up the blade as you dig, since the grit of the dirt will take your edge. You’ll also want to make sure the blade is at least three or four inches so you can easily reach the root without disturbing the soil.

  If you insist on digging the root, use a hori hori knife to minimize impact.

• Backpack or shoulder bag I usually put a few plastic grocery bags in a backpack and then load a bag or two with ramps before putting them in my pack, which helps keeps the dirt out of the pack.

The most sustainable way to harvest ramps is to cut only one leaf, leaving the bulb and second leaf to continue growing. This is least impactful on the soil, the plant, and the colony as a whole.

The leaves, in my opinion are the best part, anyway, and taking only leaves is the best way to ensure the colony will remain viable.

If you insist on taking bulbs, please dig sustainably with a knife: Simply insert your knife into the dirt at an angle and slice off a third or so of the root, leaving it in the ground to re-grow. Then pull the rest of the plant out by its stems.

It will take a little practice to get a feel for where to put the knife. You can also gently pull back the dirt from around the bulb so you can see where you’re cutting. If you do this, make sure to pull back just enough dirt to expose a little bit of the bulb and re-cover the roots after cutting.

That’s all there is to digging. Please be judicious and don’t take any more than you will use.

I find that when I overzealously harvest, it makes more work for me in the long run, because some ramps will inevitably go bad before I can get to them. There’s not much more disgusting than the smell of past-their-prime ramps. And a few ramps go a long way so there’s no need to stockpile them.

Even though we practice sustainable harvest, I’m afraid the ever-inceasing demand will eclipse the slow procreation.

According to North Carolina Extension Horticultural Specialist Jeanine M. Davis, ramps can be transplanted and cultivated from seed in climates where ramps don’t normally grow. Apparently, it takes some effort to germinate seeds when climes are warmer than ideal, but it can be done.

And once a good patch is established, it requires little maintenance. Jeanine recommends the book Having Your Ramps and Eating Them Too by the “Johnny Appleseed of Ramps” for more info on cultivating ramps. Unfortunately this book is no longer in print.

We’ve been growing our own for a while. Our homestead is located in the ramp belt now, but our previous place was outside of ramp habitat. When we lived there, our planted ramps didn’t spread because conditions weren’t ideal.

They did grow, though, and as long as we continued to plant new ramps, we always had a steady supply right outside of our door.

Where to buy

If you’re lucky enough to live in an area where ramps are abundant, it’s not uncommon to see them in the grocery store when they’re in season. Where we live, they’re also common in seasonal dishes served at local restaurants.

How to store

Ramps are only in season for a month or so, but, for us, getting them is only half the problem. I usually come back from a good ramping trip with enough for us to eat fresh before they go bad with a little extra to keep for eating later (I rarely go digging more than once a season unless I come home with a particularly light harvest).

Both leaves and bulbs can be eaten and both are delicious. They’re best used fresh, but both can be put away for eating later in the year.

The easiest way to store ramp bulbs is by freezing: Simply cut off the greens, clean the dirt off the bulbs and cut off the roots (if your ramps still have roots). Then spread the bulbs out on a sheet pan or waxed paper so they are not touching and freeze. This prevents them from sticking together.

Once they’re frozen, put them in jars or plastic containers, seal tightly and put in the freezer for up to six months. You can also wrap them individually in wax paper and store frozen in sealed jars. They can also be pickled but we don’t usually bother.

The greens won’t last long fresh and deteriorate when frozen. They can be dried, but they lose a lot of their flavor. We’ve found the best way to preserve them is by making ramp compound butter (see recipe below). A close second is ramp pesto. Either can be stored in the refrigerator in the short term or frozen for use later.

For short term storage put ramps in the refrigerator as soon as possible. They should be stored uncleaned. If a refrigerator is not immediately available ramps can be kept with the bulbs submerged in a bucket of water and placed in a cool shaded area.

The leaves will start to wilt in the refrigerator after 4 days or so and in the bucket after a day or so depending on temperature.

How to cook

Ramp bulbs and leaves can be diced and used just as you would use onions, green onions, leeks, chives and garlic, but they are much more potent. They pair well with the following:

• pasta

• eggs

• chanterelle mushrooms and other wild mushrooms

• potatoes

• stir fried and raw greens

• pork

Some folks like to eat ramps raw. I like a little chopped up in a salad, but ramps as a cooked vegetable are a lot more fun. My favorite way to eat them is mixed into venison burgers or in ramp and white cheddar soup. And it’s hard to beat ramps and eggs for breakfast.

A few years back, Cindy came across this sweet little book from West Virginia called Mom & Ramps Forever! by Barbara Beury McCallum. There’s some fun anecdotal history on ramps in there. It’s also a collection of old timey recipes and stand-bys like pickled ramps and ramp champ – mashed potatoes with ramps. Here’s one of the recipes… quick and easy and sounds tasty:

Ramps With Watercress

“Fry some bacon until crisp, remove the bacon then drain off part of the bacon drippings. Put washed cress into the pan with the water that clings to it. Cook covered, until tender. Garnish with crumpled bacon, finely chopped ramps, and some chopped hard cooked eggs.”

Unfortunately, Mom & Ramps Forever! is out of print, but it’s a nice one for the collection if you can find it.

Most modern bows have a complex method to adjust the draw length, and most require a bow press.

However, Bear compound bows are generally very easy to adjust and do not require the use of a bow press.

For this reason, Bear compound bows are one of the best bows for beginners.

Bear Adjustment System

Bear bows are one of the most beginner-friendly compound bows on the market.

This is because Bear archery made their bows completely adjustable for the draw weight and even the draw length.

There are some variations between the models, but the concept is generally the same.

Adjusting the Draw Length

Adjusting the draw length on your Bear compound bow is quite simple and can be done in less than ten minutes.

There are two steps to adjusting the draw length of a compound bow. First, we will adjust the module; this will set the draw length to your desired length.

Second, we must set the stop; this will ensure that the cams stop turning when you drawback.

Tools Needed

Adjusting a Bear compound bow is so easy that there are no tools needed other than the right size Allen keys.

This varies from model to model, so I like to have an Allen key set.

Fitting the small screws can also be a bit tricky, so I like to put my bow in a bow vice when adjusting it; however, this isn’t necessary.

Adjusting the Module

A compound bow module determines the draw length of a compound bow.

Many modules have only a limited range, allowing the bow to be adjusted in only small increments or in some cases, not at all.

However, the modules found on a Bear compound bow have a wide range of adjustments and, in most cases, do not need to be swapped for any size draw length.

To adjust the draw length on the bear compound bow module:

1. Find your draw length number. Once you know your draw length, you can find it’s corresponding number on the bear compound bow cam. For example: on a Bear Wild compound bow a 28 inch draw is number 4 on the module.
2. Secure the bow in a position that is comfortable to work on.
3. Locate the module. This is usually located on the cam on a single cam bow. On a dual cam bow the module is typically located on the tom cam.
4. Unscrew the two screws on the back of the module. Be careful not to lose the screws as the module will fall once the two screws are undone.
5. Slide the module to the number that corresponds with your draw length.
6. Locate the two holes that perfectly align between the module and the bow and redo the screws. Hand tighten the screws and be careful not to overtighten.

Adjusting the Stopper

Now that the draw length is set, we have to set the stopper to align with the draw length.

1. Locate the stopper. Typically on a single cam bow, the stopper is located on on the outside of the cam.
2. On a dual cam bow, there are two stoppers, and it is important that both are set equally to ensure your bow is firing evenly.
3. Undo the stopper and set it to the same number as what you set the module to.
4. Drawback your bow to check your draw length.

Important Things to Remember

Ensure that you are using the proper tools. Some bow manufacturers use metric measurements, and others use imperial. Find the one that fits your bow perfectly to prevent damaging the screws.

Double-check that you are undoing the proper screws. There are a lot of screws around the cams of a bow, so it’s important to double and triple-check that you have the correct screw.

Undoing the wrong screw could cause damage to the bow and injury to you.

Final Thoughts

Adjusting the draw length on a Bear compound bow is straightforward.

Once you find your corresponding number on the module to match your draw length, it’s only a matter of moving the module and the stopper to that number.

The whole process takes less than ten minutes, and you’re back up shooting again.

It’s easy to mistake the screws, so double-check that you have the right screw before undoing it to prevent damage and possible injury.

During the week Jason Price is a management consultant and efficiency expert. At the weekend he has an odd fascination with doing things by hand, like baling hay.

Words: Jason Price Images: Jason Price, Andrew Ward

Who: Jason Price & Bella the Corporate Dog Akatarawa Valley, 40km north-east of Wellington What: 1.2ha Twitter: @Corporate_Dog, @Jason_E_Price Web: Check out Jason’s other passion, Norwegian round wood stacks

It’s important to know what you’re getting into when it comes to managing your first-ever lifestyle block. Alternatively, you can say to yourself “oooh, that’s a lovely spot” and just move to your dream property. That’s what I did.

One of my first problems was what to do with the fast-growing spring pasture on my hilly paradise. I did get some helpful advice from block-owning friends.

“Seriously, you haven’t got sheep yet?”

That began my journey into land management and sheep. A few weeks later, three enthusiastic lambs arrived and promptly disappeared into the long grass. The stunned expression on their woolly little faces matched my own.

My first thought was to make hay. The sun was shining. Machine mowing the steep gradient of my block makes that too dangerous. A small budget meant hiring a contractor wasn’t a viable option either.

Hay has been cut, dried and baled by hand since medieval times. How hard could the old-fashioned way of doing things be? Project DIY Hay Baler began. Google provided a range of articles. I quickly clicked past the one entitled “don’t buy a lifestyle block until you’ve done your homework” and moved on to the traditional haymaking results.

The basic method of making hay is cut, rake, turn, dry, bale.

The North Carolina Forestry Service’s leaflet on how to build a simple box baler got me enthused about what they called: “A low-cost, simple-to-operate-and-build solution that is ideal for small-scale/start-up operations.” I ignored the drawbacks column with its pessimistic talk: • cumbersome • labour-intensive • limited production

And the most pertinent to someone in my profession: • inefficient

DOWNLOAD THE NCFS BOX BALER BUILD INSTRUCTIONS

STEP ONE: CUT AND RAKE YOUR GRASS (THE HARD WAY)

I did make one concession to modernity and common-sense. I admire the many people on YouTube who show such enthusiasm for cutting grass with a traditional scythe. But learning to scythe on a hilly section of the Akatarawa Valley would be more likely to result in a trip to the hospital. Scythes are also surprisingly expensive to buy and require a high level of skill to use efficiently. A petrol brushcutter with a grass cutting blade would do the job.

The grass was knee-height, the weather forecast was for a week of sun, and I had time off work. Manually cutting a hillside field of grass is as labour-intensive, cumbersome, and inefficient as you’d imagine. Once cut, the grass needed to be raked up into windrows. These long lines help the piled-up grass to dry out. Work methodically across the field, raking the cut grass up into mounded rows.

This is a nice way to spend a sunny day but it’s easier if you can find others to help you. My helpers were bull terrier-cross Beanie and white German Shepherd Kujo. Their definition of ‘help’ was to repeatedly crash through the neatly-raked rows. Occasionally they would wee on it.

One essential investment is a decent pitchfork. You need to turn each windrow twice a day, about lunchtime and again in the late afternoon-early evening, to dry the hay. You want to turn and spread it out to expose any hidden green grass to ensure it is evenly sun-baked. Too green and wet and your hay will go mouldy, or worse, get so hot it starts a fire in your barn.

JASON’S TIPS FOR MAKING A HAY RAKE

I didn’t have a suitable hay rake, so I made one out of a broom handle, a length of scrap timber and some 8mm dowelling. This was a lot cheaper than those for sale online. Miraculously, it also works well. Don’t glue the dowel ‘teeth’ in place. It’s a lot easier to pull them out and replace them when they break. If you want to be efficient, cut yourself some spare dowels and take them with you when you’re raking.

STEP TWO: BUILD A BOX BALER

You will need to print the instructions to make this baler. The following is my commentary on my project as I followed (and sometimes didn’t follow) those instructions.

I bought the timber, plywood, coach bolts, screws, door hinges, and eye hooks from Mitre 10 for under $110.

1. The box baler is a square loading box with a lever system to compress the hay. It’s attached to a loading platform, providing stability to balance the lever arm. The loading platform frame and the loading box are constructed from 4×2 timber, with sheets of plywood in between. Start by constructing the base platform from two long and one short length of 4×2”.

2. The rear corners of the loading box are two pieces of 4×2” timber attached to one another at right angles and fixed to the base platform. Screw a sheet of plywood between these and fix the central 4×2” length to the centre to hold the lever arm.

3. Fix another piece of 4×2” to the base to form the front of the loading box. Connect across the top with a shorter length of 4×2”, holding the side plywood sheeting. On the front, below the cross beam, cut a plywood piece for the door.

You’ll notice I went for a two-door front-opening model as opposed to the single door version in the reference plans. There was no strategy behind this; I cut a bit of plywood in the wrong place and had to adapt it to get the baler finished in a day. It works fine, but in practice, I think the single door model would be more robust during the baling process. Fix the door to the side upright with hinge or hinges and add a secure closing mechanism (either a bolt or a hook on the far side).

4. Make the lever arm and compression platform. The lever arm is made up of two shorter lengths of 4×2” and a long central length. Use coach bolts to secure these at the top of the central pillar on the back. In the centre of the space between the two shorter lengths, use a coach bolt to fix the vertical 4×2” that holds the compression platform (the bit that goes into the box baler top). The compression platform itself is a square of plywood, the same dimensions as your box, attached by two pieces of 4×2 (in photo 4 you can see it where it inserts into the loading box). When the arm is lowered, this compresses your hay inside the box.

5. The floor of the loading box has two pieces of wood fixed to it, with eye hooks sitting next to them. These are the runners that hold your baling twine in place. Fix these into the floor of your baler and screw in the eye hooks so the side of the eye is touching the wood.

5a. Fix two eye hooks to the outside back of the baler. Position a little way down from the top, and keep them in line with the floor runners. These hold the baler twine ends during loading.

6. You’ll notice the doors have slits cut into them. These should be at the same distance as the floor runners. The slits allow you to tie the baler twine.

I discovered two things from this experience: • human beings can improvise if they need to; • the woodworking adage of ‘measure twice, cut once’ is correct and it’s better to pay attention the first time around.

STEP THREE: GATHER AND BALE YOUR HAY

At this point, you will definitely need help from others. This is also when you learn why the original article had the word ‘cumbersome’ in its list of disadvantages. Carrying the baler down to the field is a two-person job.

You also discover an oversight in the plans. Robust carrying handles would be a good addition.

Gathering the hay was relatively straightforward. We used a large blue tarpaulin. One person was on pitchfork duties and two more people dragged the tarpaulin. We also had three dogs to disrupt the process and liberally scatter hay. It’s a great team-building exercise. You’ll quickly find yourself with a large haystack on a tarpaulin that you can slide easily around your field. Move the hay to sit beside the baler.

HOW TO USE THE BALER

This is an important health and safety message. If you take the easy option of resting the compression platform on top of the loading box frame, it can slip off and you’ll get a nasty bump on the head.

The moving parts can trap a finger, so be careful when you’re using it. We worked out that folding the level arm right back (as seen in the image below) after making each bale was worth the few seconds to avoid it falling and causing injuries.

1. Set up the hay baler with twine, ready for loading. Put a loop of twine over the eye hook on the back of the baler and run it down the inside of the loading box. Run it under the gap between the eye hooks and wooden strip on the baler floor. Don’t put it through the eye hooks – it needs to go between them and the wooden strip (see 1A, below).

This allows the twine to slip out once you’ve tightened it. If you run it through the eye hook, you’ll just fix your finished bale to the floor of the box and have to start again.

2. Bring the end of the twine through the slot in the front door, leaving enough length to tie it off later.

3. Repeat these steps on the other side so you have two lines of twine set up.

4. Close and bolt the door, then fill the baler with hay from your haystack. Press it down by hand after each addition of hay. Keep loading until the hay sits level with the top of the baler box.

5. Take your bailer twine off the eye hook at the back. Bring it over the top of the hay in the baler.

Find the top of the slit in the front door and bring the twine through, ready for tying off in a moment (see 5A).

6. Carefully bring the baler arm over and insert the flat plate into the top space of the baler.

7. Pull down on the arm to compress the hay inside into a tight bale. If, like me, you opt for the two-door model, you might need to put your foot in front of the door to stop it bursting open. This is a good reminder to accurately follow the plans next time.

8. Once the hay is compressed, take the ends of the baler twine from the top and bottom of each slot and tie them up tightly together. This holds your compressed bale together when you open the door. If you break the twine, you’ll have to unload the baler, re-set it and start again.

9. Lift up the compression arm so it’s clear of the baler. You can rest it on the top, but it’s better to put it back in the ‘safe’ position ready to start again.

10. Open the front door to reveal your compressed hay bale.

11. Give the twine a tug and pull forward your compressed bale onto the loading platform. Practice makes perfect. Our processing time for the first bale was 12 minutes. We got to a final production-line-efficiency time of under five minutes to re-set, fill, tie, compress, unload and stack a neatly-packed bale.

We’re not going to win any awards for farm efficiency compared to machine baling, but it does have some advantages: • it’s an oddly entertaining way to spend a day with friends in a field; • it’s low-cost if you live on a block that is too small to warrant investment in machinery or a contractor, or not accessible for a tractor; • it gives you a satisfying sense of achievement as you innovate new ways to speed up your production line process; • I got a lot fitter.

Our productivity could have been increased further by not having dogs barrelling through the haystack. However, that would have cut back on a lot of the fun. My knee-length grass problem was turned into around 40 bales of hay. You do need to factor in the cost of beers and a barbecue to thank the raking, moving and baling team. Hay baling by hand is an experience to remember.

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There is accomplishment and satisfaction enough in just taking a mature buck. Doing so on public land? Now that’s another level of high-five in the deer woods.

Georgia offers some very good deer hunting on public lands, from state-managed Wildlife Management Areas (WMAs) to federal lands like national forests and national wildlife refuges. Here’s a look at some of the public-land bucks taken by GON subscribers and entered in the Truck-Buck Contest this season.

Celyon WMA Bow-Buck Ceylon is Georgia’s newest WMA with 27,000 acres in Camden County in southeast Georgia near the coast. The area follows quality-buck regulations—legal bucks must have at least 4 points (1-inch or longer) on either antler or a 15-inch outside spread.

It was during the first archery-only hunt at Ceylon this season when Waynesville’s Alex Harrelson took advantage of southeast Georgia’s early rut to get a nice 10-point buck with his compound bow during a morning hunt on Sept. 23.

“The buck came through an open stand of pines chasing a doe,” Alex said. “I had to grunt twice to get him to stop 43 yards away.”

The buck had a live-weight of 180 pounds.

Muzzleloader Buck From Oconee National Forest Living in Monticello, Tyler Farmer is close to lots of great public land in middle Georgia. On Oct. 9 during the primitive-weapons/youth week, Tyler headed to a familiar tract in Jasper County.

“I went into this area on Oconee National Forest knowing it held some bigger deer. I’ve been blessed to harvest a few bucks out of the section,” Tyler said. “I got in there a little early waiting on daylight. I had that feeling something good was gonna happen. I was hunting an oak/pine hilltop on the edge of a pine thicket/bedding area. Around 8:40 that morning he appeared out of the thicket and came out into the white oaks. He presented me with a 65-yard broadside shot with my .45 cal CVA muzzleloader. It was a blessed day!”

VPA Buck… What’s A VPA? VPA stands for Voluntary Public Access—these are generally smaller tracts of private land that the state leases using money from a federal grant program. For the 2021 hunting seasons, there are 16 VPA properties that offer some type of public hunting access, ranging from archery-only deer hunting to dove hunting.

One of those VPA tracts is the 934-acre Pleasant Valley VPA in Bartow County, which offers youth bowhunting Sept. 11 to Oct. 15, and then four quota firearms deer hunts for kids. Peyton Bowan, 14, spent Halloween evening on one of those quota gun hunts, and it paid off with a 7-point buck. Peyton and his dad were set up in a ground blind when the buck offered a 75-yard shot, and Peyton made it count.

“The deer dropped in its tracks and the celebration began,” said Petyon’s dad, Mark. “It was a memorable quota hunt. Thanks DNR!”

Cedar Creek WMA Still A Deer Factory Cedar Creek WMA is part of the Oconee National Forest, but it’s managed as a state wildlife management area, which means it has special regulations and more limited days of deer hunting. The mid-November firearms hunt this season was Nov. 11-13, which hit about just right for the peak of the rut in this part of middle Georgia. Cedar Creek is in Jones, Jasper and Putnam counties.

Two good Cedar Creek WMA bucks were entered in Week 9 of the Truck-Buck contest.

Quality-Managed B.F. Grant WMA Produces 12-Point Buck Greg Williams ignored the timber-cutting operations going on in the area while he was hunting B.F. Grant WMA, and apparently a buck ignored the machinery, as well. During a quota firearms hunt on Nov. 6, Greg shot a nice 12-point buck on the Putnam County WMA that is owned by UGA.

“I’d been hunting the area for three days,” Greg said. “They had been pulpwood cutting in the area with machinery, but I figured I would give it one last try in the area. I knew there were big bucks in the area. At 6 p.m. the buck came up to cross the little field by the clearcut and the machinery, and I shot him 70 yards from the wood-cutting equipment.”

Flint River WMA In The Heart Of Big-Buck County Dooly County and the Flint River corridor have long held special esteem when it comes to producing quality Georgia bucks. Flint River WMA is in the heart of it.

On Nov. 19, Jeff Horton was drawn for the quota firearms hunt on the WMA, and he went home to Clyo with plenty of meat and a nice rack. Jeff killed a 224-lb. (live weight) 10-point buck.

“On the second day of a three-day hunt at Flint River WMA, at 7:05 a.m. a doe came out, and behind her this buck came out a minute or two later,” Jeff said. “He started to trot away, and I stopped him with a mouth call. When he stopped, he presented me with a shot 50 yards away.”

These are just a handful of the nice public-land bucks taken this season. See all the bucks entered in the Truck-Buck contest, where bucks can be sorted by county and week of the season.

When it comes to hunting big game or for versatile shooting practices, the choice of cartridge is crucial. In the world of rifles, the debate between the .30-30 Winchester and the .308 Winchester is one that has carried on for decades. Both cartridges have their own set of unique features, advantages, and drawbacks, making it a tricky decision for enthusiasts and hunters alike. In this comprehensive guide, we will dig deep into the comparison between the .30-30 vs .308, including their historical backgrounds, ballistics, effectiveness, and more, helping you make a well-informed decision.

Historical Background of the .30-30 and .308 Cartridges

Understanding the origins of the .30-30 and .308 cartridges is essential in unraveling their characteristics and uses.

.30-30 Winchester: The Pioneer of Modern Rifle Cartridges

The .30-30 Winchester, previously known as .30 WCF (Winchester Center Fire), was introduced in 1895 as the first small-bore, smokeless powder sporting round. It earned its moniker “.30-30” due to the caliber (.30 inches) and the cartridges’ standard black powder load of 30 grains (1.9 g). The .30-30 quickly became popular for its high velocity, accuracy, and effectiveness in hunting, particularly for whitetail deer in the United States.

.308 Winchester: A Modern Classic

Introduced in 1952, the .308 Winchester was designed as a civilian hunting cartridge that also filled the role of a military round. The .308 came almost half a century after the .30-30, and it leveraged advancements in gunpowder and case design to enhance performance. This versatile cartridge is now globally renowned for its accuracy and reliability, and it is actively used for hunting, target shooting, and military snipers.

Ballistics Comparisons Between .30-30 and .308

The comparison of ballistics between the .30-30 and .308 is crucial for understanding their performance in different shooting scenarios.

Projectile Velocity

One of the significant differences between the .30-30 and .308 cartridges is the projectile velocity. The .308 Winchester typically fires bullets between 2,500 to 2,800 feet per second (fps), while the .30-30 Winchester’s range is generally between 2,000 to 2,200 fps. This gives the .308 a clear advantage when it comes to velocity, providing a flatter trajectory and improved long-range accuracy.

Energy

The kinetic energy of a bullet is a critical factor in determining its stopping power and overall performance. The .308 Winchester cartridge, due to its higher velocity, generates significantly more energy than the .30-30 Winchester. A .308 bullet can generate up to 2,600 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle, while a .30-30 bullet produces around 1,900 ft-lbs. This increased energy allows .308 bullets to penetrate deeper, delivering a stronger impact on targets at longer distances.

Recoil

Recoil is an important aspect to consider, especially for hunters who want minimum fatigue during long hours in the field. Generally, the .30-30 cartridges produce a milder recoil compared to the .308 cartridges, making it easier for shooters to follow through shots and maintain their form. The .308 Winchester, with its higher powder charge and projectile weight, generate considerably more recoil, which may not be ideal for novice or recoil-sensitive shooters.

Effectiveness of .30-30 and .308 Cartridges in Hunting

When it comes to hunting, both the .30-30 and .308 cartridges have their unique strengths and weaknesses, making them suitable for specific scenarios.

.30-30 Winchester: The Brush Gun Champion

The .30-30 Winchester is a popular choice for hunters in dense woodlands and considered an ideal “brush gun.” Its low velocity and larger caliber make the .30-30 a perfect match for hunting deer-sized game at short to moderate distances (under 200 yards). The .30-30’s cartridges recoil is mild, making it accessible for novice shooters and hunters who prefer lighter guns like the lever-action rifles. However, its limited trajectory and energy output make it less suitable for long-range hunting or precision shooting.

.308 Winchester: A Versatile Hunter

The .308 Winchester’s excellent ballistics and wide selection of bullet designs make it a versatile cartridge suitable for hunting almost any game in North America. It has a flatter trajectory and higher kinetic energy, capable of taking down larger animals like elk and bears at longer ranges (up to 400 yards). Additionally, the higher velocity and better wind resistance of the .308 bullets ensure a more accurate and ethical shot placement, especially in adverse conditions. For hunters who struggle with the .308’s recoil, investing in a rifle with well-designed recoil mitigation features could be a solution.

Summary: Who Wins the .30-30 vs .308 Debate?

Ultimately, choosing between the .30-30 and .308 cartridges depends on your intended purpose, shooting preferences, and priorities. If your goal is to hunt medium-sized game at short to moderate distances, the .30-30 Winchester provides a reliable, time-tested option with manageable recoil. On the other hand, if you’re seeking versatility, long-range performance, and the ability to hunt a wider range of game, the .308 Winchester undoubtedly reigns supreme. Regardless of your choice, remember that practice, shot placement, and proper bullet selection are vital ingredients for a successful and ethical hunting experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is a 30-30 as powerful as a 308?

While both cartridges have similar bullet diameters, the .308 is generally considered more powerful due its higher velocity and energy. The .308 Winchester typically has a higher muzzle velocity, greater range, and flatter trajectory compared to the .30-30. The .308 also generates more energy at both the muzzle and downrange, making it more suitable for longer range shots and larger game.

What is the difference between a 308 and a 30 caliber?

The term “.30 caliber” refers to the bullet diameter, which is approximately 7.62mm or .308 inches for both .308 Winchester and .30-30 Winchester cartridges. The primary difference is in their specific cartridge design, with the .308 being a higher pressure round that produces a higher muzzle velocity and more energy than the .30-30. Additionally, the .308 is commonly used in bolt-action and semi-automatic rifles, while the .30-30 is most often used in lever-action rifles.

Is 308 overkill for deer?

While the .308 Winchester is a powerful cartridge and more than capable of taking down deer, it is not considered “overkill.” In fact, the .308 is a popular choice among hunters for its versatility and effectiveness on medium-sized game like deer. The key to a humane and effective kill is to use an appropriate bullet type and place your shot accurately for a quick, clean dispatch of the animal.

Do people still hunt with a 30-30?

Yes, the .30-30 Winchester remains a popular hunting cartridge, especially for those who prefer lever-action rifles. While it may not offer the long-range capabilities or energy of the .308 Winchester, the .30-30 is still an effective cartridge for hunting deer and other medium-sized game at moderate ranges. Its lighter recoil and classic lever-action design are also attractive to many hunters.

Is the .30-30 suitable for long-range shooting?

The .30-30 is generally considered a moderate-range cartridge, with effective distances for hunting usually limited to around 200 yards. Its relatively lower ballistic coefficient and velocity compared to the .308 mean it has a more pronounced bullet drop and less energy at longer ranges. For shots beyond 200 yards, the .308 Winchester is typically a better choice.

Can a .308 rifle use .30-30 ammunition?

No, these two cartridges are not interchangeable. The .308 Winchester and .30-30 Winchester cartridges have different case dimensions and pressure ratings, which means they cannot safely or reliably be fired in a rifle chambered for the other cartridge.

What types of firearms are available in .30-30 and .308?

The .30-30 cartridge is most often associated with lever-action rifles, while the .308 Winchester is commonly chambered in bolt-action and semi-automatic rifles. Although, some single-shot and pump-action rifles are also available for both calibers. It is important to choose a firearm that is specifically chambered for the desired cartridge.

Which cartridge is easier to find and purchase?

Both .308 Winchester and .30-30 Winchester are popular and widely available cartridges. The .308 may be slightly more common due to its widespread use in both hunting and tactical applications, but both types of ammunition can typically be found relatively easily at sporting goods stores and online retailers.

What is the recoil like for the .30-30 compared to the .308?

The .30-30 Winchester typically has less recoil than the .308 Winchester. This is primarily due to its lower pressure and energy compared to the .308. However, the specific recoil experienced by the shooter also depends on factors such as firearm weight and stock design.

Are there significant differences in bullet options for the .30-30 and .308?

Both .308 and .30-30 offer various bullet options for different purposes. However, due to its higher popularity and versatile application, the .308 Winchester generally offers a wider variety of bullet types and weights to choose from, including expanding bullets for hunting and match-grade bullets for precision shooting. The .30-30 Winchester also offers hunting-appropriate bullets, but its selection is somewhat more limited in comparison.

Most of the time deer seem like ghosts walking through the woods. For the hunter it might sound like the forest is filled with everything but deer. In reality, though, deer are quite vocal animals, and they express themselves with a variety of noises that all mean different things, from warnings to sweet talk.

Knowing these sounds is essential to the effective hunter. Not only can they let him know where deer are and what they’re doing, but certain sounds may repel or attract certain types of deer at certain times. It might sound complicated, but there are definitely harder languages to learn.

In the end learning the vocabulary of deer speak is a lot of fun.

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If you’re looking to imitate a deer you should checkout how that’s possible by reading our roundup of the best deer calls. Or maybe you’d like an article outlining the characteristics and locations of all the different types of deer that make up the deer family?

We’ve also another similar article that covers the sounds that Elk make.

What sounds does a deer make when scared or nervous?

One of the things that have helped deer survive for so long is their herd mentality. They take care of each other. One way they do that is by warning each other when there’s danger. Specifically, there a few sounds you should be aware of because if you hear them, it probably means a deer knows you’re around and has just alerted the rest of the herd.

Sniffs

If a deer begins to sense something is off, they may start making sniffing sounds. Not only are they trying to get a better smell, one of the easiest ways they can find you out, but they’re also putting the rest of the herd on edge. The sniff doesn’t sound much different than a human sniff, only stronger and deeper. Imagine air being sucked in through a deer’s large nose.

Stomps

Along with sniffing, suspicious deer may begin lightly stomping their hooves. This happens when they first suspect danger but aren’t quite sure where or what it is yet.

The noise sounds just like a wood block striking the ground and is usually noticeable since the deer are otherwise as silent as mice. The stomping puts the rest of the herd on alert so that they can more easily pinpoint the threat.

Snorts

The snort happens when a deer is positive there’s danger around. It means whatever methods you’ve employed to camouflage your body, noises and scents haven’t been enough. The snort sounds similar to a human sneeze, and nothing is more disheartening than hearing it off in the distance just when you’ve given up for the day and decided to start making your way out of the woods. The deer will snort, raise its tail and run away. The sound will alert other deer, and they’ll all do the same.

What sounds does a deer make when angry?

When they’re in the rut, male deer shed some of their usual cautiousness in order to chase the does. This certainly applies to their sounds as well, and a buck in the rut will be a lot louder than usual. In fact, he’ll make a variety of sounds to intimidate other bucks or warn them of his presence, and he’ll respond to sounds that make him think there’s another male around. He’ll make sounds to try to seduce the does as well.

Buck Grunt

Bucks make a loud grunting sound to show their dominance. While all deer make soft, long grunts to call to one another, the deep, short grunt of the buck is the male claiming the territory and does in it as his own. He’ll usually make it when he’s decided on a specific doe to chase, and he’ll continue making the grunts as he chases her. The sounds are also attractive to the females.

A buck grunt is one of the sounds that can be mimicked to attract a deer. Some examples are listed here in our roundup of the best deer calls.

Rattling Antlers / The Buck Rattle

The buck rattle isn’t a vocalization of the deer. It’s the sound of two bucks fighting. When they spar, they clang their antlers together making a rattling sound. Before the rut begins, this can be light sparring just to size each other up, but when the does are in estrus, this becomes serious fighting to determine dominance.

If other bucks hear the sounds of antlers rattling, they know two males are fighting and will usually come to watch, especially the dominant buck of the area because he’ll want to know who’s fighting in his territory. This is why imitating this sound can attract them.

Hunters or naturalists looking to lure deer often use man made materials to mimic these sounds, there are some great examples in this roundup of the best rattling antlers.

Snort-Wheeze

The snort-wheeze is an especially aggressive sound used to intimidate rivals. It sounds just like the name implies: a snort followed by a raspy wheeze. Two bucks vying for territory and does may make these sounds at each other to display their dominance. If one buck is smaller or more timid, the noise might send him running, but the more aggressive males usually make this sound just before they spar. This noise combined with the rattling antlers really gives the impression of a fight and will attract curious and dominant bucks to the area.

There are some example products that allow you to make rattling antler and snort wheeze sounds in our roundup of the best deer calls.

Other deer sounds

Being herd animals, deer need some way to communicate, and one of those ways is sound. They don’t just make noises to show fear or anger, but they also make different sounds when they’re excited, happy or even bored. Does especially have a wide range of vocalizations they use with each other and their fawns.

Doe Grunt

The grunt of a doe is much higher than that of a buck because the females have smaller bodies, and just like in humans, this results in a shorter airway. The does don’t grunt to show dominance, though. Basically, they just do it to talk to one another. Deer are highly social, and they try to gather together when they can, so a grunt is the deer’s way of telling others it’s around and ready to mingle, so to speak. The mothers also grunt to call the fawns if it’s feeding time or if they’re moving to a new location.

Doe Bleat

Does also bleat in social situations. The bleat is a higher-pitched vibrating sound, similar to that of a goat. They mostly do it when they are gathered together or with their fawns, and it signals contentment.

Doe in Heat Call – Estrus Bleat

When the does go into heat and are ready to mate, they make their own sound to seduce the bucks. This is the estrus bleat and it’s higher than the bucks’ calls. It almost sounds like a kazoo. When a doe wants to mate, she’ll stop and make the bleat which lets the buck chasing her know she’s ready. This can be one of the loudest noises deer make and is very distinctive.

What sounds does a baby deer make?

Baby deer, or fawns, make a lot of different noises to communicate with their mothers. The does have strong maternal instincts and respond quickly to calls from their babies. Consequently, if you’re hunting a doe, the best way to attract her may be to mimic the sounds of a fawn.

Nursing Whine

When the fawns are nursing or trying to nurse, they whine. It’s a rising and falling pitch that actually sounds a lot like a rusty screen door blowing in the wind, but the fawns make it to bond with their mothers. Like most social communication between deer, it is not audible from much of a distance.

Fawn Distress Call

If a fawn is in danger, it will call for its mother’s help. The call sounds like a loud continuous cry that can sometimes be eerily human. If it’s enough to make you feel like you need to go see what’s wrong, just imagine how it sounds to a mother deer. Does will normally come fast to find the crying fawn, even if their own babies are safe by their side. As you can imagine, the noise increases in volume depending on how much the fawn feels in danger. It might be quiet and rhythmic if the fawn is merely lost and looking for the herd, or it could be loud and panicked if it’s being chased by a predator. You’re mostly likely to hear this sound at the beginning of the season when fawns are still small and dependent on their mothers, and that’s also when you’ll have the best luck imitating it, though it can be successful year-round.

Fawn Bleat

Fawns also make a goat-like bleating sound similar to the does when they are happy. Because of their small bodies, the pitch is higher than that of the adults, but it serves basically the same purpose. The fawns bleat when they’re playing with each other or socializing with their mothers, and it encourages social bonding within the herd. You’re likely to hear young deer playing around and bleating while their mothers feed.