They say that ducks are the “new chickens” – backyard farmers all over the country are beginning to enjoy the pleasure of keeping ducks. Our ducks are all different breeds because I enjoy variety and I like being able to tell them apart….and because there are so many great breeds I couldn’t choose just one!

Before I kept ducks, like most people, when I pictured a duck the first thing that came to my mind was a large white duck with an orange bill – like the one that tries to sell me insurance in case I get hurt. The next duck I thought of was the classic green-headed Mallard that graces nearly every pond in the Northern Hemisphere.

That was pretty much the extent of my duck breed knowledge. The large, white Pekin duck is the most popular domestic duck breed around. The Mallard is thought to be the breed that nearly every domestic breed of duck is derived from so you will recognize their traits in many domestic breeds. While Pekins and Mallards are awesome, there are tons of other amazing duck breeds available, many of whom are on the endangered list, and would love to find a home in your yard.

If you are thinking about adding some ducks to your life, check out some of these popular duck breeds!

Let’s start at the beginning….

Mallard

Native to most countries in the Northern Hemisphere, Mallards are thought to be the “father” of all domesticated ducks except for Muscovy. Mallards are small, making them capable of flight. They don’t tolerate confinement very well, so if you keep Mallards you risk them flying away and not returning unless you can provide a nice, large, covered enclosure. Mallards lay a beautiful greenish egg, and are highly energetic and talkative. They have one of the lowest egg-laying rates of the domesticated breeds, laying just a couple of eggs per week.

Wild Mallards are widely hunted and removing birds from the wild to raise in captivity is a big no-no with US Fish & Wildlife. Raising wild ducks is actually illegal in many states. When keeping Mallards, you need to mark them to show you have not “duck-napped” them. Metzer Farm, one of the biggest duck breeders in the country, removes the back toe as soon as they hatch to permanently mark that duck as domestically bred.

Male ducks have a glossy green head with a white ring around their neck and grey on their wings and belly, while the females are mainly brown-speckled with a blue band on their wing called speculum feathers. Most people that keep Mallards do so for purely decorative reasons, or for training hunting dogs.

Pekin

Beautiful all white feathers on a heavy, large size bird. Pekins are popular because they are dual purpose. Hens lay a large number of white eggs so they are great to keep as layers. Their fast growth rate & light-colored skin also make them excellent to raise as meat birds. Around 90% of the duck meat produced in America comes from Pekins. Pekins are a heavy-weight bird with a calm, friendly, curious disposition, lots of eggs and meat if you want it – Pekins are a great all-around choice.

Muscovy

A really interesting bird native to the southern hemisphere. Commonly referred to as a duck, Muscovies in fact are a different species than the Mallard duck relatives. Their meat is leaner than duck meat with a plump breast like a turkey. They nest like ducks do, but also like to roost at night like chickens. Muscovies are shaped like a duck and are able to mate with a duck, but the offspring will be sterile and are referred to as mule ducks. They do not quack; the male has a low breathy call, and the hen a quiet coo which makes them perfect for backyard farmers with close neighbors. The male has large red fleshy growths around his eyes called caruncles, the females also have caruncles but to a lesser extent. Most domesticated Muscovys are dark brown or black & white.

Cayuga

The only duck breed developed in the United States, Cayugas originated near Cayuga Lake in New York. They are a medium-heavy breed that is slow growing. Cayugas have gorgeous black iridescent feathers that can look green when light shines on them, black bills and black feet (laying females and older birds sometimes have a bit of orange in their feet). They are usually raised for exhibition or eggs and their calm disposition makes them a great choice for backyard flocks. Hens generally lay 3-4 eggs per week and have a charcoal or black-colored shell early in the laying season. Mid to late season eggs & eggs from older birds are usually very light gray. Cayugas are listed as threatened status by the Livestock Conservatory.

Buff Orpington

Buffs originated in the Orpington area of Kent, England in the early 1900s (by William Cook, the same man that gave us the popular Buff Orpington chicken). A medium size duck, originally bred as an egg laying breed, you can expect an average of 3-5 white to light brown eggs per week. They have lovely fawn buff feathers with a brownish orange bill and a sweet personality. Buff Orpingtons are listed as threatened.

Rouen

A wonderful multi-purpose duck. A large bird that will lay 3-5 bluish tinted eggs per week. Rouens are a popular alternative to Mallards because they are nearly identical, but much larger so are too heavy to fly away. The males have a glossy green head with a white neck ring and a grey body. The females are brown laced with blue speculum feathers. Their calm disposition also makes them wonderful pets or additions to your backyard farm.

Crested

Usually raised for exhibition purposes or as pets, crested ducks are large white ducks with a ball of feathers, or crest, on their heads. They are slow growing so they are not a popular meat choice, but do lay fairly well (2-4 eggs per week). Bantam crested ducks & crested ducks in colors other than white have also been gaining popularity in recent years. The crest is actually a genetic mutation causing a deformity of the skull, so breeding them sometimes causes some controversy among animal rights groups. Breeding can be tricky – breeding a crested duck with another crested duck can be fatal for the offspring. To breed them you need to breed a crested to a non-crested duck, 1/4 of fertile eggs will never hatch, 1/4 will be crest-less, and only half of the ducklings will develop a crest.

Saxony

A great dual purpose breed, the Saxony is a heavy, fast growing duck that also lays a large amount of white or light blue eggs. Originally bred in the 1930s in Germany, nearly all the breeding stock was lost in World War II. Saxony are listed as critically endangered by the Livestock Conservancy. Males display the typical Mallard pattern, but their colors are unique from any other breed. The male’s head & wing markings are blue-gray, with a chestnut breast and cream belly. The females are a golden buff with cream/white facial stripes, neck ring & belly. They are calm, curious & excellent natural foragers.

Call Ducks

Their petite size, calm temperament & playful attitude make Call ducks very popular as pets or for exhibition. Adorably small; full-grown adults tip the scale at under 1.5 pounds. Call ducks were originally bred by duck hunters. The Call duck’s quack attracts wild ducks to the hunting area. For hunting, Call ducks have been nearly entirely replaced by artificial duck calls & decoys, so now these ducks are mainly raised as pets. As expected, they have a very loud call and are very talkative so they might not be the best choice if you have close neighbors. In recent years, multiple colors of Call ducks are becoming available. The two most popular are white (an all white duck) and grey (looks like a mini Mallard)

Swedish

A medium to large size dual purpose bird, they are slow growing and excellent natural foragers. You can expect 3-4 eggs per week with varying shades of white, blue and green. They have calm temperaments and will make a great addition to your backyard farm! Black Swedish are mostly black with a white patch on their neck & chest. Blue Swedish are a slate blueish gray with a white patch on their neck & chest. The color blue will not breed true however. If you breed a blue male to a blue female, half will be true Blue Swedish, a quarter will be Black Swedish and the other quarter will be Splash or Silver (either speckled white & grey or a silvery gray)

Runner

These ducks do not have the typical “duck” body shape – they are lightweight and stand upright like penguins, they always remind me of bowling pins! Their upright stance allows them to run fast rather than slowly waddle like other domesticated ducks. They were originally bred in China to help rice farmers control insects in the rice paddies. They are excellent egg layers & natural foragers, laying 4-5 eggs per week that usually have a blueish tint to them. Runner ducks tend to be nervous and can stampede when startled.

Khaki Campbell

Campbells are usually raised for their superior egg production, they can lay 5-6 cream colored eggs per week! Their excellent egg laying abilities make Campbells one of the most popular choices for backyard keepers. They are a medium weight bird, their smaller size means that some birds are able to fly for limited distances. Developed in the late 1800s by Adele Campbell, she crossed a Runner with a Rouen to create a duck that would lay well like a Runner but will be bigger to use as a meat bird. Campbells are a warm khaki color with the drakes having a darker bronze colored tail and dark head.

Magpie

A lightweight bird, they are excellent egg layers – laying 4-5 colorful eggs per week. Magpie’s eggs can vary from white, cream, blue, and green. Their feathers are usually black & white, but also can be found in blue & white with an orange bill. Generally a quiet & calm breed, they make excellent additions to suburban farms.

Silver Appleyard

This is a BIG duck! In coloring, they are similar to Mallards with the male featuring a green head, brown mottled chest with some feather lacing, and cream colored underbody. The females have a silver/white underbelly with brown lacing and iridescent speculum wing feathers. Silver Appleyards are calm & friendly and very reliable egg layers.

Welsh Harlequin

A colorful all purpose duck, they are raised for exhibition, eggs & meat. Welsh Harlequins are a medium weight duck and are also prolific layers, laying 4-6 eggs per week that vary in color from white to light blue tint. They are calm and great natural foragers. The females have a black bill with white & brown feathers and a blue speculum feather ban. The males have an orange bill and closely resemble a male Mallard with a green head, white neck ring and brown body. Welsh Harlequins are one of the few duck breed that have a natural sex-linked characteristic. At just a few days old, 90% of them can be sexed by bill color. Welsh Harlequins are listed as critically endangered.

By Valentine’s Day you’ve probably felt the pain: the agony of having coyotes shun your calls. It’s not out of the ordinary for coyote-calling success to dwindle as the days begin to grow longer with spring’s approach. Educated coyotes are top misery makers, and many of the less wary are MIA due to a date with fur-shed destiny. Dr. Phil consultation won’t help this pain, but tweaking your coyote strategy could assist you in landing one more fawn-eater in your truck bed. Here are late-winter tactics from four experts to help you close out the season.

Play Love SongsNineteen-year coyote-hunting veteran and Mossy Oak pro-staffer Heath Wood has hunted coyotes across the Great Plains, but he spends most of his time pursuing Show Me State ’yotes. He understands the tests late-season coyotes pose, but also knows coyotes have a weakness during this period: love.

“One of my favorite calling techniques for late season is adding estrus whimpers, whines and female howls,” says Wood. “I start off the setup with three to four subtle howls on a diaphragm call or an open-reed howler. After the howls I wait four to five minutes then continue with some type of distress sound. I add coyote vocals to the end of the sequence, usually doing this on the last stand of the day after the distress sounds have played for around 30 minutes.”

Wood believes this strategy delivers because instead of giving coyotes just one reason to visit his calls, he piques their interest in everything important to a coyote. However, he stresses it’s the ending vocals, female whimpers and submissive howls that play a major role in late-season success.

Feed Them CrowSteve Criner, host of “Dog Soldier TV” on the Sportsman Channel, realizes late-season coyotes pose a threat to his production schedule. When he hits a wall with other calls, Criner immediately switches to a standby he’s used for years: crows. Crows, magpies, jays and other scavengers of the air provide coyotes with information about kill sites, and they instill coyote confidence through their keen observations from above.

“Like most coyote hunters I hunt ranches that are beat up and shot up by me or other hunters,” admits Criner. “To call in educated coyotes I rely on crow mobs for late-season success.” Criner starts his set with a long, drawn-out, subtle howl. After watching for a few minutes, he introduces the sounds of a crow and hawk quarreling. A few minutes later he adds more crows fighting with a single hawk. As this all heats up he augments the disturbance with one more ingredient: the sound of a rabbit in distress. To mix the sounds he utilizes an electronic caller along with mouth calls.

“You usually call in crows, and they see everything, so you need to be well camouflaged to prevent them from sounding an alarm. If you create a crow mob you’ve created what I call the Dog Soldier smoke signal. It’s a confidence visual that coyotes run to as their territoriality, curiosity and hunger impulses kick in. It creates the perfect situation,” asserts Criner.

Mock the TalkLevi Johnson has 30 years of coyote hunting experience, including decoy-dog adventures that provide content for his popular online video series, “Doggin’ with Levi.” He hunts coyotes the entire year and understands the trials late in the fur season. To make wary coyotes show themselves, Johnson prefers to challenge them—or as he puts it, “irritate the living heck out of them.”

It’s easy to find a challenge howl recording on most electronic callers these days, but Johnson goes beyond that sound. In fact, he often shies from a true challenge howl since it can be too threatening to young or subordinate coyotes. He prefers to return the same message a coyote sends to him.

“I don’t use a lot of challenge howls, but I use a lot of lone howling,” shares Johnson. “During the breeding season and even later I make the howl long and draw it out. When I get a coyote to challenge or howl back I immediately respond with the same howling. I talk the same talk he’s talking to me. It’s the same as two adults talking and one mocking the other by repeating everything. It’s irritating and makes coyotes come in to look.”

In addition to repeating every sound a coyote yips back, Johnson sets up to make a coyote look for his calls. He places his FoxPro caller some distance away from his position and upwind, plus he hides it in brush tall enough to cloak a coyote. If a coyote arrives on scene and can’t see the responding “coyote” in the brush, the irritated canine is forced to come closer for a look.

Stage a FightPredator Quest pro-staff manager Matt Piippo specializes in coyote vocalizations, and few hunters can match the canine realism he produces with a mouth diaphragm. He refers to late-season coyotes as “fool me twice” coyotes and realizes they’ve heard it all. For him a new sound is in order, and his go-to is the ruckus of quarreling coyotes.

“I kick off 90 percent of my stands with a female howl. In the late season I make it pathetic to send a message of a female asking if anyone is out there,” explains Piippo. “If there isn’t a response I answer it with a more aggressive howl and then wrap it with a yip howl.”

All along, Piippo ramps up the aggressiveness of the message. A response from a distant coyote prompts him to possibly send a challenge howl back. Nevertheless, in the middle of his theatrics he initiates the growls of a fight, complete with coyote distress cries.

“These sounds tell coyotes within earshot that a fight has started in their territory,” he notes. “It could be over boundaries or it could be about breeding, but the fighting sounds are central to fooling coyotes late in the season. Stay on stand for up to an hour and be prepared for a coyote to show up anytime.”

Hot Times to HowlBrian R. Mitchell conducted a two-year coyote vocalization study at the Dye Creek Preserve in California for his doctorate degree. During the study Mitchell discovered coyotes have individual voices identified through spectrogram deciphering. He also noted that howls recorded from real coyotes and then played back made radio-collared subjects approach from at least a kilometer away.

“Approaches were most common when playbacks were within the responding animal’s home range, during the first half of the year, and at or before sunrise,” Mitchell documented. “Territorial coyotes were twice as likely to respond as transients.” His study also noted that barks didn’t send the same, attractive information. As you can see from your own canine pal, barks oftentimes send an alarm message. Mitchell included human imitations of coyotes in his study. When compared to recordings of real coyotes, human calls “generated similar levels of approach responses.” This is great news for hunters who don’t rely on electronic callers.

Last March I had a free weekend to give the coyotes one more chance to ride in my truck. Instead of carrying on a lengthy message I simply howled several times and shut up to watch. Forty-five minutes later a coyote walked leisurely out of a brushy draw with a suspicious, yet brave approach. The slap of my Hornady V-Max signaled a successful ending to my coyote season with nothing more than a howl for attraction.

If you’re hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to do it as soon as possible. The ideal temperature for hanging a deer is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature is any warmer than that, you risk the meat spoiling. The length of time you’ll need to hang the deer will depend on how warm it is. You’ll generally want to hang the deer for at least 24 hours, but in very warm weather, you may need to hang it for 48 hours or more.

If you’re processing your deer in warm weather, you’ll need extra care to prevent the meat from spoiling. Here are some guidelines for how long to hang your deer in warm weather:

If the temperature is above 60 degrees Fahrenheit, you should only hang the deer for one to two days. You can hang the deer for three to four days if the temperature is between 40 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit.

And if the temperature is below 40 degrees Fahrenheit, you can hang the deer for up to seven days. Remember, it’s always better to err on the side of caution when hanging your deer. If you’re not sure how long to hang it, it’s better to hang it for a shorter period of time rather than risk the meat spoiling.

Ask a Deer Processor: How long should you hang your deer?

How long can a deer hang in 60-degree weather

Assuming you are referring to the temperature of the air and not the ground, deer can hang in 60-degree weather for an indefinite amount of time.

The reason being, is that as long as the internal organs remain cool, the deer will not begin to rot. The rigor mortis, in which the muscles stiffen after death, will also be delayed in cooler temperatures. So, if you are hoping to age your deer meat, 60 degrees is the ideal temperature.

Can you let a deer hang in warm weather?

It’s not recommended to let a deer hang in warm weather. The warmer the temperature, the quicker the deer will spoil. If temperatures are above freezing, the deer should be refrigerated or frozen as soon as possible. If it’s not possible to do either of those things, then you can let the deer hang for a day or two, but any longer than that is not recommended.

How long will a deer last in 50 degree weather?

If you’re asking how long a deer will survive in 50 degree weather, the answer is that it depends on the deer. In general, deer can withstand temperatures as low as -20 degrees Fahrenheit, but they will start to feel uncomfortable when the temperature goes above 50 degrees Fahrenheit. If the weather is particularly hot or humid, the deer will start to suffer from heat stress, which can lead to death.

How long can you let a deer hang?

When it comes to deer, there are a few different schools of thought on how long is too long to let a deer hang. Some people believe that as long as the deer is properly taken care of, there is no set time limit. Others believe that waiting too long to process a deer can result in the meat becoming tough and unpalatable. So, how long can you let a deer hang? Ideally, deer should be processed as soon as possible after being harvested. This means that the deer should be gutted, skinned, and deboned as soon as possible after being killed. If you are unable to process the deer right away, it is important to take steps to ensure that the meat stays cool and does not spoil. If you are unable to process the deer immediately, it is best to hang the deer in a cool, shaded area. The temperature should be below 40 degrees Fahrenheit to prevent the growth of bacteria. If the temperature is above 90 degrees Fahrenheit, the deer should be processed as soon as possible. It is also important to keep the deer away from predators, insects, and other animals. If the deer is hanging in an area where there are other animals present, it is important to check on the deer regularly to make sure that the meat has not been contaminated. In general, it is best to process a deer within 24 hours of harvesting it.

Is it OK to hang a deer in 60 degree weather?

The quick answer is yes, it is perfectly fine to hang a deer in 60 degree weather. In fact, this is actually an ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. When hanging a deer, the animal should be gutted as soon as possible after being killed. The intestines can release bacteria into the meat which can cause it to spoil. The deer should then be hung by the hind legs from a beam or other sturdy structure. If the temperature is too cold, the meat can freeze and if it is too warm, the meat can start to spoil. The ideal temperature for hanging and aging venison is between 32 and 40 degrees Fahrenheit. However, 60 degrees is still within the acceptable range. If the temperature is consistently above 60 degrees, you may want to consider placing the deer in a cooler or refrigerator to prevent the meat from spoiling.

Conclusion

If you’re planning on hanging a deer in warm weather, you’ll want to take some extra precautions to make sure that the meat doesn’t spoil. First, you’ll want to choose a cool, shady spot to hang the deer. If possible, hang the deer in a breezy spot so that the air can circulate around the meat and help keep it cool. Secondly, you’ll want to make sure that the deer is completely gutted before you hang it. If the intestines are left in, they can quickly start to rot and contaminate the meat. Finally, you’ll want to check the temperature of the meat regularly. If it starts to get too warm, you can either move the deer to a cooler spot or take it down and refrigerate it.

There are many different types of fishing, yet which is the most effective? In this guide, we will explain everything you need to know about fly fishing, including whether you will catch more fish and how to catch as many fish as possible. We believe that fly fishing can be one of the most productive forms of fishing.

One of the unique things about fly fishing is that every detail of your cast can be customized to specifically target the sort of fish you’re aiming for. You can utilize a general-use fly rod, or you can opt to purchase a rod that has been designed to assist you in specific ways. Combined with the endless amount of techniques and combinations it gives you the most optimal approach at catching large amounts of fish.

What is fly fishing?

Before we delve deeper into fly fishing and just how effective it is, it is essential to explain what this method involves. When fishing via traditional means, a cast is made that will use some sort of bait or lure, which is attached to the end of the line. The line is typically one of the newer braided lines or a monofilament.

One thing that is noticeable about this type of setup is that the line is a lightweight and very thin material, with the bait or lure being the heaviest part. This makes it so that when the cast is let loose, your bait or lure is what will carry momentum through the air, trailing the lightweight line behind.

Now, if you were to cast an object that was light in weight, you would have noticed that making the cast go very far is a challenge! In all traditional types of fishing, it is the weight of the lure that is vital.

Traditional Lure Casting Method

If you have ever seen someone fly cast, you will have probably noticed some distinctive differences between traditional lure casting and fly casting. Specialized fly fishing equipment is used by the angler to achieve this cast. This includes a purpose-built fly rod, as well as fly, tippet, leader, and a fly line.

The main difference when it comes to fly casting is that the artificial flies utilized to catch the fish are very lightweight. Even when you use much larger flies for pike or bass fishing, the weight is going to be minimal when compared with traditional bait, such as casting a spinning lure.

Fly Casting Method

With this approach, the key to getting the fly out to where the fish are is with the right fly line. In this casting method, the fly line is the weight. Through the use of a casting method that enables the fly line and the fly roof to work in unison, the weight of lined is utilized for carrying the fly out in front of you through the energy being transferred that has been built up in the line, down through the line, and out toward the end of it.

The most important aspect of fly fishing is knowing how to fly cast. There are some specific techniques in fly fishing that are not going to need much casting. However, the vast majority of what you will do in fly fishing will incorporate casting.

So, now let’s get into fly fishing and what it actually is. This revolves around the presentation of an artificial lure called a fly to a fish, which will typically imitate some sort of insect. This is the basic concept of fly fishing. The aim here is attempting to mimic the natural food base for a fish, getting them to take the fly. You are mostly trying to trick the fish.

The flies that you use for this can vary to insects that live under the water’s surface to those that float on the surface, from caddis to mayflies. Different approaches to fly fishing are required based on the type of fly you use. Some of the materials that tend to be used are as follows:

• Feathers from birds, such as pheasants and ducks
• Hairs and furs from animals, like moose, elk, deer, muskrats, and beavers
• Wires, tinsel, and other types of ribbing materials
• Tungsten beads, brass, and glass
• Artificially created synthetic materials

The Main Differences Between Spin Fishing and Fly Fishing

In order to give you a true reflection of the differences between spin fishing and fly fishing, we have put together the main differences in a table below.

Differences

Spin Fishing

Fly Fishing

Lures vs. flies

Spin fishing utilizes heavier lures, which frequently imitate fish.

Fly fishing uses flies – including streamers, emergers, nymphs, and dry flies – to imitate all of the different types of food that fish feed one.

Rod type

Spin rods are used. They are heavier lines, which are cast monofilament lines that have a single cast.

Fly rods are used. These use false casting to cast the line, which is lightweight.

Lakes vs. rivers

Spin fishing tends to mainly be done on Stillwater.

Fly fishing tends to be done on moving water. However, it can also be done on Stillwater as well.

Line type

A monofilament line or another sort of line is used to cast lures that are heavier and do not require a heavier line to cast.

To cast the lightweight flies, a fly line, tippet, and leader are used.

Presentation

Spin fishing works effectively when imitating crawdads or baitfish. They are presented in the water at all depths, after which they are retrieved and then brought to you.

Fly fishing enables you to have a stealthier and upstream presentation. When you are fly fishing, you can also work in tighter quarters.

Some other differences do exist between the two types of fishing. However, we hope that the table above will help you to clearly understand the main differences between the two.

Does Fly Fishing Catch More Fish?

While each of the fishing styles is different, they all offer unique advantages in specific situations. However, there are a number of reasons why people believe that you can catch more fish with fly fishing, so let’s take a look at them below…

You can customize your fishing experience.

One of the unique things about fly fishing is that every detail of your cast can be customized to specifically target the sort of fish you’re aiming for. You can utilize a general-use fly rod, or you can opt to purchase a rod that has been designed to assist you in specific ways.

Once your rod has been personalized, this gives you the ability to customize your line. The weight, style, and length can be adjusted. This means your line is going to more significant meet your needs; you can amend the tippet and the leader. With fly fishing, you can quickly achieve a shorter or longer leader.

When it comes to tippets, there are several different styles of tippets that can be utilized with your line. The leader and the tippet are utilized so that the line is virtually invisible to the fish. They also make it a lot easier for the flies to be attached and detached from your line, enabling easy and quick transitions between casts.

One of the most customized parts of fly fishing is the flies. There are a number of different flies that you can buy that can help you with attracting the sort of fish you want to catch. You can do some research, watch your surroundings, and tie your own flies. This means that your fishing experience is ultra-customized, and it also means that you are going to be able to increase your chances of catching as many fish as possible.

The fly is delivered to the fish in a manner that is inconspicuous

Aside from the benefits that have been mentioned so far, there are a number of other advantages that are associated with fly fishing that tend to make it more beneficial. This includes the fact that the fly is delivered to the fish in a manner that is inconspicuous when the cast is done properly. The fly will be cast against the current, and then it is allowed to drift for a distance, in the same manner, that a typical bug falling into moving water would. Your goal here is to make sure the fly is delivered in a manner that the fish does not think there is something unnatural about it. If you are able to fool them, they will take a bite on the line.

You can catch a wide range of species

Last but not least, another reason why people believe you can catch more fish with fly fishing is that you will be able to catch all types of species. This includes bluegills, bass, trout, and many more.

Some of the main species of fish that fly fishing are successful with are as follows:

• Bonefish
• Tuna
• Tarpon
• Carp
• Panfish
• Bass
• Pike
• Salmon
• Grayling
• Trout

How to catch even more fish with fly fishing

As discussed, there are a lot of different characteristics that are associated with fly fishing that result in it being more successful than conventional fishing. However, this is only going to be the case if you get your technique down. With that being said, below, we are going to reveal some of the different tips that you can use in order to catch more fish with fly fishing.

Watch the bugs

The first step you need to take when fly fishing is to be observant and watch the bugs! Before you begin to cast away, you need to pay attention to the bugs that are near the water or on the water. Take a look at what kind of bugs the fish are eating. By doing this, you will be able to determine what sort of fly is going to be the most effective and result in you catching the most fish. You also need to think about what trout could be eating under the surface of the water. Try some of your wet flies or nymphs that match the most common underwater snacks. Simply choosing a fly without thought is not the way to go if you want to catch as many fish as possible while trout fly fishing!

Test the length of your leader

The next tip to ensuring you catch as many fish as possible when fly fishing is to test the leader’s length. Depending on the technique and fly you use, you may want either a shorter or longer leader length. For wet or dry flies, try using a longer leader. This should be anywhere between 12 and 20 feet. A shorter leader is going to be more beneficial if you are utilizing a streamer, so go for something between seven and eight feet. It is more than okay for you to try out different lengths on your leader so that you can figure out which is going to be the most effective for you and the fish you are trying to catch.

For more information on leader length check out our full article here:

Approach fish carefully

When you are stalking fish, make sure you approach low and make the most of any cover that you can, for example, bushes and long grass rushes. If you can, make sure you keep a low profile, especially when you are on a high bank with the skyline behind you. Remember, when a fish is deep, it is going to be able to see you from further away than fish that are close to the surface. This is because of the way in which fish see. They have an impeccable vision. They have the ability to uniquely adapt their vision to distinguish predators and locate food. This is why you need to do everything in your effort to blend into your surroundings. You may not think so but wearing bright clothes is only going to lower your success rates.

Walk softly and be as quiet as possible

Once you are in pole position, it is important to walk softly and to be as quiet as possible. This is something a lot of people take for granted. Nevertheless, fish are as sensitive to vibration and noise as they are to visual warnings. If you walk softly on the banks of the river and you try to wade as quietly and slowly as you can, you will definitely notice better results. Of course, trout don’t have ears, but what they do have is lateral lines that they use for detecting vibration and movement in the surrounding water.

Avoid overcasting to the fish

This is one mistake we see a lot of people make when it comes to fly fishing. Catching a fish does not always demand that you use a long cast. After all, you never know what fish could be right in front of you, do you? Before you attempt to catch any fish that are further away, make sure you check the area close to you. Not only do you never know what sort of fish are going to be near you, but it is going to be a lot easier for the hook to be set from a shorter distance rather than one that is far away.

Use the entire rod

Another tip that is important when it comes to fly fishing success is to use the full rod. A lot of fishermen think that they are more likely to win a fight against a fish if the rod is as straight in the air as possible. However, the outcome is not usually a positive one when this happens. Instead, the line either breaks, or the rod does. Instead, you should make sure your rod is nearer to a 45-degree angle instead. This will mean that you are not just using the tip of the rod; you are going to be using the entire rod. When it comes to fighting a fish, it is not all about strength. In fact, it is skill that is most important.

Stay safe

We also have to stress just how important it is to stay safe! After all, if you hurt yourself, you are not going to be able to catch as many fish as possible, are you? There are lots of different steps that can be taken here. For example, you need to wear a hat and some sunglasses so that your eyes are protected. When spotting fish, premium quality polarized sunglasses are always going to provide you with help. Plus, only wade if you need to, and make sure you are always careful when you do. Use a wading belt as well; this is a must.

Cast from your elbow and wrist

Last but not least, our final tip when it comes to getting your technique right in order to catch as many fish as possible is to make sure you cast from the elbow and wrist. A good cast does not mean that the whole arm must be utilized. Instead, it focuses more on the movements of your wrist. Your wrist needs to be straight, yet it should also be relaxed. It is the rod that needs to be doing the vast majority of the work for you. It takes a lot of practice in order to get the perfect cast. Therefore, the best thing that you can do in this regard is to practice, practice, and practice some more!

More Fish, and More Consistent Results

Not only do you have the potential to catch a greater number of fish with fly fishing but you can expect more consistent results as well. This comes down to the tactics that are involved in fly fishing. When you are spin fishing, the lure, whether it is biological or artificial, is put into the water’s depths in order to try and allure the fish into biting it. The lure needs to look like a source of food in order to tempt the fish so that they bite it. Some people have stated that the fish need to be in a certain type of feeding mood in order for this type of fishing to be successful.

When it comes to fly fishing, the end goal is to try and trick the fish into biting a fly that looks like one of their food sources. This can be a fly, as mentioned, or another type of aquatic insect. This is done on top of the water, at the bottom or anywhere that the fish are feeding. The key here is to try and mimic the natural behaviors of the food source as closely as possible, so that is presented in a way that fools the fish and they take the bait.

If you have ever tried fishing before, you will have probably experienced the instance whereby your lure is presented and the fish end up being spooked on the impact of the lure entering the water. This is something that does not happen with fly fishing because the presentation is on the water and above the fish. Because of this, you are unlikely to spook the fish, and this is how you end up with results that are a lot more consistent.

Other Reasons Why Fly Fishing is More Productive

Aside from being able to catch a greater number of fish, because you can personalize your fishing experience, there are a number of other reasons why fly fishing is considered better than spin fishing, and so we are going to take a look at these below.

You will enjoy the experience

Not only can you customize your fishing experience to ensure you catch more fish but there is no denying that fly fishing is much more experienced orientated as well. There are more factors that go into fly fishing and a lot of different things that need to be considered. This is why fly fishing is more fun. It can also be more challenging and more practice is needed in order to get it right. However, isn’t this what the thrill of fishing is all about?

It’s extremely rewarding

The former

Whitetail deer hunting is one of the most popular forms of hunting in North America. These majestic creatures can be found throughout the United States and Canada, and their impressive antlers make them a popular target for hunters. But have you ever wondered what the biggest whitetail deer ever killed was? In this article, we’ll take a look at the record books and explore some of the biggest whitetail deer ever taken down by hunters.

The Boone and Crockett Club

The Boone and Crockett Club is a non-profit organization dedicated to the conservation and management of wildlife and their habitats. Founded in 1887 by Theodore Roosevelt and George Bird Grinnell, the club is best known for its record-keeping system for big game animals. The Boone and Crockett Club’s scoring system is based on the size of the animal’s antlers, and it is the standard by which all other record-keeping organizations measure big game animals.

The Top 5 Biggest Whitetail Deer Ever Killed

According to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are as follows:

1. The Jordan Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Al Jordan in 1914 in Danbury, Wisconsin. The Jordan Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 206 1/8 inches.

2. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck – This famous whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Larry Gibson in 1940 in Peoria County, Illinois. The Hole-In-The-Horn Buck’s antlers scored 205 0/8 inches.

3. The Missouri Monarch – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Jim Jordan in 1981 in St. Louis County, Missouri. The Missouri Monarch’s antlers scored 198 2/8 inches.

4. The Beatty Buck – This impressive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter James Beatty in 2000 in Greene County, Ohio. The Beatty Buck’s antlers scored 294 0/8 inches.

5. The Hanson Buck – This massive whitetail deer was taken down by hunter Milo Hanson in 1993 in Saskatchewan, Canada. The Hanson Buck’s antlers scored an impressive 213 5/8 inches.

While these are the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed according to the Boone and Crockett Club’s records, there are many other impressive whitetail deer out there. In fact, there are over 7,000 whitetail deer in the Boone and Crockett Club’s record book, each with their own unique story.

Factors that Affect Antler Size

While genetics play a large role in determining the size of a whitetail deer’s antlers, there are other factors that can affect antler size as well. These include:

1. Age – As a whitetail deer gets older, its antlers will typically grow larger.

2. Nutrition – A whitetail deer that has access to high-quality food sources will typically have larger antlers than a deer that is struggling to find food.

3. Habitat – Whitetail deer that live in areas with ideal habitat conditions (such as good cover and access to water) will typically have larger antlers than deer that live in less ideal conditions.

4. Hunting Pressure – Whitetail deer that live in areas with high hunting pressure may have smaller antlers due to the fact that hunters are selectively targeting larger deer.

Conclusion

While the top 5 biggest whitetail deer ever killed are certainly impressive, it’s important to remember that hunting is about more than just taking down the biggest animal. It’s about being a responsible and ethical hunter, respecting the animals and their habitats, and enjoying the outdoors. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or just starting out, always remember to hunt safely and responsibly, and to respect the animals and the land.

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Is Thetford’s Offering One of the Best Portable Camping Toilets?

If you’re looking for a family-sized portable camping toilet, the Thetford 365 may be the right one for you. Discover what it has to offer and what you need from a portable toilet.

An innovator in the portable camping toilet space, Thetford’s history dates back to 1960. It was in that year that the company produced its first portable toilet for campers. Since then, it’s honed its models constantly and become a leading name in the industry.

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet is among the more popular models that it has to offer. In this review, we’re going to take a look at whether the toilet lives up to its billing, as well as tackling a few concerns. We’re also going to tell you what you need to look for when shopping for a portable toilet.

The Good

• Offers 57 flushes before you need to empty it.
• Very lightweight, which makes it easy to carry.
• Made using high-quality and durable plastics.
• Comes with a three-year warranty.
• Comes with several features to help you empty it easily.

The Bad

• May not ship with the chemicals needed (depending on the retailer).
• Its size can make it difficult to transport with other camping gear.

The Bottom Line

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet is huge, which means you can usually get through a trip without having to empty it. The toilet’s light weight makes it easy to move around and it feels almost like a full-sized toilet.

This may be one of the best portable camping toilets available today.

The Full Review

To test this toilet, we took it out in the wild with us for a three-day camping trip.

We focused on a few key issues that we want to cover here. These include the following:

• Ease of Use
• Stability
• Materials
• The Smell
• Portability
• Capacity
• Other Features

Let’s see how it fares.

Toilet Ease of Use

This is an area where the Thetford Porta Potti 365 really shines.

On a practical level, its size makes it one of the closest portable simulations of a regular toilet that you will find. Taller people won’t find themselves squatting uncomfortably while using it. That said, smaller children may need a little support.

However, it’s the emptying of the toilet that really makes this model stand out.

It comes with a visual indicator for the bottom tank. This tells you when the toilet’s starting to fill up. As a result, you don’t have to crack it open to take a look for yourself. You get to avoid an unpleasant experience as well as ensuring you don’t release any strange odors into your campsite.

Once it reaches capacity, you still don’t have to open the waste tank. Instead, you can take advantage of the emptying spout that Thetford builds into all of its toilets. This releases all of the waste that’s built up inside the bottom tank. Plus, it prevents any nasty splash back. It’s as simple as pressing the vent button after directing the emptying spout into the correct position.

Thetford has also focused on ease of use in their tank construction. The toilet consists of two tanks, which you can clip together using a clasp located at the back. The bottom tank holds the waste while the top tank contains the bowl.

Thetford has also placed the flusher on the back of the tank, which ensures that it doesn’t get in your way during use. You also get a choice of a piston or bellow flusher. Keep in mind that bellow flushers take a little more effort to push down. This may make them less suitable for children or the elderly.

All in all, the Thetford Porta Potti 365 simulates the toilet you have at home well. It’s easy to put together and you don’t even have to open it to empty it. Just keep in mind that its size and your flusher choice may make it slightly more difficult to use for children and the elderly.

Porta Potti Stability

Nobody wants a portable chemical toilet that can’t stay upright when in use.

Thankfully, the Thetford 365 excels in this area. Its cube shape means it’s rarely going to buckle when in use. Unless you’re actively trying to tip it over, you’ll find it stays in place well. This is surprising given the lightweight plastics used in its construction.

Of course, you’ll need flat ground to place it on. However, that’s pretty standard for all portable camping toilets. It’s also worth noting that it doesn’t come with any attachments that secure it to the ground. That’s normally not a problem, but it does mean you won’t want to leave it in the open if it gets too windy.

Having said that, there are a couple of accessories available that fix the toilet to the floor and keep it held down. However, you may have to buy these separately.

Materials

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet stands out because it contains practically no metal parts.

Instead, both of the tanks and most of the components use a high-quality plastic. You may think this raises questions about its durability, but we found that the plastics don’t present any problems. The toilet doesn’t buckle under the weight of whoever sits on it. Plus, the use of plastic means it won’t get damaged if left out in the elements,

That’s not to say that it’s indestructible. A heavy impact onto rocks or a similarly hard surface could cause damage. But that shouldn’t be a problem as long as you take care when handling it.

The Smell

No matter how well a portable chemical toilet works, if it has an overpowering smell you’re not going to want to use it.

Thankfully, this is another area where the Thetford 365 excels. Using a pink deodorising chemical in the top tank does a great job of masking any smells that it might emit. The plastic materials also prevent smells from escaping when the toilet’s not in use.

Toilet Portability

You would expect such a large toilet to present some portability problems. And that could be the case if you’re traveling in a compact vehicle. It requires a fair amount of room given that it measures 41.4 x 37.9 x 41.9cm. However, you can mitigate this problem if you disconnect the tanks before storing.

Carrying the toilet is a completely different story. Without any chemicals inside, the toilet weighs just 3.7kg. That means that any able-bodied adult should find it easy to carry.

There’s also a handle that extends out of the waste tank. This means you can carry it separately from the top tank if you’ve pre-filled it with chemicals before traveling.

The handle also gives you some separation from the waste tank while carrying. Anyone who’s gotten splashed with toilet chemicals before will appreciate this feature.

Tank Capacity

This is one of the best portable camping toilets when it comes to capacity.

The Thetford 365’s waste tank can hold 21 litres before it needs emptying. That amounts to about 57 flushes, which is more than enough to cover most short camping trips.

Other Features

Newer Thetford 365 models come with an integrated lock cover over the clasp that joins the two tanks together. This prevents you from accidentally unclasping the toilet when carrying it or when it’s in use.

This portable chemical toilet also comes with a three-year warranty. This speaks volumes about Thetford’s confidence in its durability.

Finally, it’s possible to purchase spare parts for this toilet. This offers some peace of mind for those who worry about their toilet breaking down while they’re camping. Plus, it means you may not have to shell out for a new toilet if something goes wrong.

5 Points On How to Choose the Right Portable Toilet:

Of course, the Thetford 365 is just one of many portable camping toilets that you can choose from. You’ll likely want to compare several models, which means you need to know how to choose the right portable toilet.

This buyer’s guide covers some of the key features of portable camping toilets. It also offers information about what you’ll need to keep your toilet in good working condition.

Keep it in mind when making your choice so you can avoid disappointment.

1. The Flusher

You’ll usually get a choice between automatic and manual flushers when choosing a portable toilet.

Automatic flushers tend to work electronically and usually just require the press of a button. This makes them easy to use, but it does open the toilet up to issues. If something happens with the electronics, you may end up being unable to flush.

Manual flushers require a little more effort. However, many would argue that they’re more reliable than automatic flushers.

You typically get a choice between a piston and bellow flushers when choosing a manual toilet.

Bellows require you to push down with some force to flush. This isn’t a problem for most, but may present issues for young children or the elderly. These flushers also have a habit of breaking as a result of people using more force than they need to flush.

Piston flushers require you to pull a piston up, rather than push down on the toilet. This makes them easier to use.

2. Tank Indicators

A tank indicator lets you see how close the toilet is to filling up. Some may provide a measurement, whereas others flash a colour, usually red, to tell you the tank needs emptying.

It’s important to note that not all portable chemical toilets come with these indicators. If that’s the case, you’ll have to open the waste tank to manually inspect it. This isn’t the most pleasant experience so it’s usually best to choose a toilet that has a tank indicator.

3. Spare Parts

Ideally, your portable toilet won’t require much maintenance. It should be sturdy enough to deal with repeated use.

However, it will eventually start to wear down. In particular, the parts that see repeated use, such as the flusher, will undergo wear and tear.

Being able to buy replacement parts can be a huge money saver in these instances. You can replace the component rather than buying a new toilet.

Unfortunately, not all portable camping toilets have spare parts available. If this is the case, make sure you choose a model that offers a long guarantee.

4. The Chemicals

There are two types of chemicals that you’ll need for your toilet – pink and blue/green.

The pink chemicals go into the water that’s used to flush the toilet. They help to keep the bowl clean as they get rid of deposits when you flush. Usually, these chemicals come perfumed, which masks any unpleasant odours the toilet might produce. They also help to keep the toilet’s seals lubricated, which ensures they don’t break down through constant use.

You need blue/green cassette toilet chemicals for the waste tank. They break down whatever waste ends up in the tank, which prevents the build-up of noxious gases. This also helps to control the smell issue.

It’s also important to check these chemicals for formaldehyde. This is a toxic chemical that can cause damage to the environment. You will need to take care when emptying the toilet to ensure you don’t cause any damage. Thankfully, there are chemicals available that don’t contain formaldehyde.

You may need to buy your chemicals separately before you start using your toilet.

5. Toilet Paper

You’ll want to avoid using thick or luxury toilet paper with your chemical toilet. The padding in these papers makes them difficult to break down.

Most camping stores offer specially designed porta potti toilet paper instead. While this is thinner and less comfortable than luxury paper, it ensures that your toilet doesn’t get clogged.

The Final Word

The Thetford Porta Potti 365 Toilet may be the gold standard against which we measure all other portable camping toilets. Its large size makes it comfortable to use, plus its light weight makes it easy to transport.

However, it’s the various features related to waste disposal that make it stand out. You never have to deal with any waste manually thanks to the vent button and emptying spout.

It also has very few negatives. Just make sure you choose a piston flusher if young children or the elderly will use the toilet.

All what’s left is to buy the toilet for your next camping trip. Check Thetford and their products at Tentworld and don’t hesitate to contact us if you have any questions.

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Bowhunting turkeys is the ultimate challenge. Bowhunters are tasked with convincing a mature Tom to go against its natural breeding style and come within range, and then they have to make a clean and ethical shot while remaining undetected. Every single piece of equipment for a turkey hunter matters—especially the broadheads.

Turkey hunting is incredibly tough to start with. The birds have keen eyesight and a relatively small kill zone compared to common big-game animals pursued with compound bows, such as whitetail or elk.

Thus, the small game is going to require a deadly-sharp broadhead and ideally an impressive cutting diameter.

Our list is a mix of fixed blade broadheads and expanding mechanical broadheads, so there are options for beginners or different preferences on turkey hunting.

Be sure to check out our other turkey hunting tips to help nab a big gobbler this season. But for our top six picks for the best turkey broadheads that will get the job done, read on.

1. Rage XTreme Turkey Broadhead

Rage’s dedication to broadhead design is clearly evident in the X-Treme. The Meat Hook cut-on-contact tip makes this broadhead extremely lethal, and the patented Shock Collar is a familiar and effective design.

Specs and Features:

• 2.125″ cutting diameter
• Ferrule Alignment Technology
• Meat Hook cut-on-contact tip
• .035″ Thick stainless steel blades

2. NAP Gobbler Getter

newarchery.com

The Gobbler Getter by NAP has been around longer than most turkey broadheads on the current market and earned its reputation as “Ol’ Faithful.” The innovative blunted tip is what makes it stand out from most other broadheads. The trauma from that tip, which allows the broadhead to crush bones and stay in the kill zone as the expandable blades to do their job, is what makes these broadheads so effective on turkeys.

Specs and Features:

• 1.5″ cutting diameter
• Blunted “turkey tip”
• Diamize blades

3. Magnus Bullhead

While some broadheads are designed for more reliable and risk avoidant body shots, the Magnus Bullhead fixed blade broadheads opt for the more deadly head and neck shots, while mitigating some of that risk through their large and large cutting diameter. With incredibly durable .048″ thick razor blades, as well as a 2 ¾” cutting diameter, it’s easy to see why these broadheads are turkey slayers.

Specs and Features:

• 2 ¾” cutting diameter
• .048″ thick, replaceable stainless steel blades
• Straw and shield free
• Replacement blades iIncluded

4. Xecutioner Turkey Necker

With a similar design to the Bullhead by Magnus, the Turkey Necker was designed for hunters that are looking for those meat saving neck shots. The four massive, razor-sharp blades ensure hunters can execute those shots ethically with peace of mind. Those thunder chickens don’t stand a chance.

Specs and Features:

• 4″ cutting diameter (160 grain head)
• .060″ thick blades
• 4 heads per pack
• Ferrule 7570 aluminum construction

5. Solid Turkey D-Cap

Relatively new to the scene, the turkey D-Cap broadhead is making a name for itself as one of the most dependable and deadly turkey hunting broadheads on the market today. This one is 200 grains, so it can be tricky to get used to for most archery hunters. It packs a powerful punch! The kinetic energy is unmatched, and with a 4″ cutting diameter, this thing is deadly in the spring woods.

Specs and Features:

• 4″ cutting diameter (200 grain head)
• .060″ thick blades
• Field point accuracy up to 50 yards
• 3 blade design

6. G5 Deadmeat

The Deadmeat by G5 Outdoors doesn’t typically standout as the ideal turkey broadhead, but initial looks can be deceiving. The SnapLock retention system is one of the most reliable systems on the broadhead market, and the .044″ thick blades are insanely sharp, while still producing a 1 ½” cutting diameter, which is somewhat conservative for these tough birds, but the results speak for themselves.

Specs and Features:

• 1 ½” cutting diameter
• .044″ thick razor blades
• SnapLock retention system
• Practice head included

If you have already become a happy owner of a pneumatic gun or are just about to become one, this article about handling weapons safely is for you. Remember that any gun is not a toy, and you should follow a number of rules regarding the installation and removal of the tank, loading, and unloading of the gun, handling and taking care of the guns.

Do not demonstrate the gun in a large crowd of people, as this may mislead those around you, and they may mistake it for a firearm. Be sure to read all instructions before using a gun and remember that you must follow all of them (handling & possession). 90% of all accidents with air guns are due to careless handling, the perception that a gun is not loaded when it actually is and aiming it at an inappropriate target. All these cases can be avoided if a shooter handles a weapon responsibly and correctly.

General Precautions

1. Handle the gun as if it is loaded, just like you would handle a firearm .

2. Always aim in and keep the barrel pointing in a safe direction. Choose only a target that cannot be shot through and make sure that pellets will not bounce off it because of its hard surface. Never shoot into water even if you are in your own backyard.. Never point your gun at people or animals, or anything else that you are not going to shoot.

3. Keep your grip safety activated until you are ready to shoot. Do not pull the trigger when the grip safety activated (a pellet can get stuck in the barrel). As in any mechanical devices, the grip may fail. Even when the grip safety is activated, handle it with caution. Never point the gun at anyone or at anything you do not want to shoot.

4. When you take the gun from someone or from a safe, check if it’s discharged and the grip safety is activated.

5. Do not touch the trigger until you are ready to shoot.

6. Use special goggles while shooting.

7. If you wear eyeglasses, put the goggles on top of those.

8. Always use .177 (4.5) caliber pellets.

9. Never reuse pellets.

10. Keep the trigger, if any, locked when storing.

11. Keep your gun in a safe place at your house without pellets and CO2 cylinders.

12. Before storing the gun, make sure it is discharged and secured.

13. Do not forget that any repair of the gun is carried out only in special workshops.

14. Never let a loaded gun out of your hand.

15. An air gun, together with its instructions, may only be handed over to persons over 18 y/o and familiar with the principles of handling weapons.

16. Do not modify your gun. Changes may not be compatible with the design of the gun and will be contrary to these instructions. The use of such weapons can cause serious injury or death. It will also void the warranty on the gun.

17. If you have dropped your gun, inspect and check it carefully before using it again. If something changes, like the stroke of the trigger, it could mean damage to or destruction of parts of the gun. If this happens, contact a service department.

CO2 Cylinder Installation and Removal

Keep your hands and face out away from vaporizing CO2 gas. If the gas gets into contact with the skin, it can cause rapid cooling and frostbite. Before removing the cylinder from the air gun, make sure that the CO2 cylinder is empty. Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise until the noise of the vaporizing CO2 gas stops.

When installing and removing the CO2 cylinder:

• Make sure that the air gun is not loaded and its grip safety is activated.
• Slowly turn the cap counterclockwise until the noise of vaporizing CO2 gas stops. Make sure it’s all out.
• Open the tube lid and remove the empty CO2 cylinder with the air gun barrel pointing down.
• Insert a new cylinder/cartridge into the air gun mag with the neck facing forward.
• Screw in the gas cylinder cap.
• Point the air gun in a safe direction, remove the safety catch and pull the trigger.
• If the air gun does not pop after pulling the trigger, the cylinder has not been pierced. Slightly screw the cap, slingshot the slide, and fire again until the pops are heard, it means that gas is released each time the trigger is pulled.
• Check the grip safety.

Do not store your air gun with the cylinder inside.

Important: The CO2 cylinder may explode at temperatures above 50°C.  Do not deform or burn cylinders. Do not heat or store them at temperatures above 50C°.

Pellets Loading and Removal

Always use .177 (4.5) caliber diabolo pellets with a maximum length of 6.5 mm when firing air guns. Do not use BB (metal balls), darts, or other unsuitable projectiles for rifled barrels. The use of non-standard bullets may cause damage to you or your gun. Never reuse bullets.

Loading the pellets:

• Check the grip safety.
• Point the gun in a safe direction.
• Follow the instructions of your air gun to load the pellets.
• Before shooting, make sure that the slide is pushed forward and locked.

Discharge by shooting is the easiest way to remove a pellet. Shoot in a safe direction.

Discharge without shooting:

• Activate grip safety.
• Remove the CO2 cylinder.
• Pull the slide back and open the barrel.
• Insert a suitable size brush into the barrel. The barrel may be damaged if you use an incorrectly sized brush.
• Push the pellet into the pellet ejection port direction.

If a pellet does not come out of the gun, it does not mean that there are no more of them in the mag. Shooting with insufficient CO2 pressure may cause a pellet to stuck in the barrel. If it is not possible to make a shot, it could be due to a dud caused by a pellet.

Handling

Before cleaning your air gun (grip safety) make sure there is no pellet in the barrel and remove the CO2 cylinder. The external metal parts of the gun should be cleaned from time to time. Use a soft cloth and gun oil for this purpose. The gun must be lubricated regularly after every 250 shots in order to function properly and avoid corrosion. Apply 2 to 3 drops of gun oil on external parts and inside the compression chamber. Use only airgun-rated oils. With proper care and proper handling, your gun will bring you pleasure for many years.

Author bio: Roy Emerson is a technology enthusiast, a loving father of twins, a programmer in a custom software company. Editor in chief of TheHomeDweller blog, greedy reader, and gardener.

If you live in the southeast and have a pond that you envision to be your “trophy fish factory” then it will only be a matter of time before you think about stocking some largemouth Tiger Bass that will aggressively and continuously hit lures and baits, are hardy enough to survive the occasional winter temperature dips and grow quickly, as much as one or even two pounds or more per year.

What is a Tiger Bass?

Tiger Bass is a hybrid freshwater fish that is a cross between a female Florida Bass (Micropterus floridanus) and a male Northern Bass (Micropterus salmoides). It was developed in private fish hatcheries as a sport fish and is known for its fast growth rate, aggressiveness, and large size. Tiger Bass have a unique and distinct appearance, with a tiger-like pattern on its scales, hence its name.

It has a deep, broad body, and a large mouth, making it an efficient predator of other fish, crustaceans, and insects. Tiger Bass were first introduced into the market in the late 1990s and has since become a popular game fish among anglers. It is stocked across the southern United States, where it has become a sought-after trophy fish due to its size and fighting ability.

Tiger Bass Growth Rate

Tiger Bass are known for their fast growth rate, and they can grow up to 16 inches in one year under ideal conditions. The growth rate of Tiger Bass can vary depending on factors such as water temperature, availability of food, and genetics. In general, Tiger Bass grow faster in warmer water temperatures between 75-85 degrees Fahrenheit. During the summer months, when the water is warmer, the growth rate of Tiger Bass can be accelerated.

The availability of food is also a crucial factor in the growth rate of Tiger Bass. Tiger Bass are a predatory fish and feed on a variety of prey, including fish, insects, and crustaceans. The more food available to a Tiger Bass, the faster it can grow. Genetics can also play a role in the growth rate of Tiger Bass. Fish hatcheries selectively breed Tiger Bass with the fastest growth rates, resulting in offspring that are genetically predisposed to grow faster than their wild counterparts. Overall, with proper management and optimal conditions, Tiger Bass has the potential to grow at an impressive rate, making it a popular sport fish for anglers.

Tiger Vs Largemouth Bass

Largemouth Bass are a native species of North America and are found in many freshwater lakes, rivers, and ponds. It is known for its large mouth and aggressive feeding behavior. Largemouth Bass can grow up to 29 inches in length and weigh up to 22 pounds. In terms of appearance, Tiger Bass have a tiger-like pattern on their scales, whereas Largemouth Bass has a greenish color with a dark stripe along its body.

While both species are popular among anglers, Tiger Bass is preferred by those who are looking for a more challenging and exciting fishing experience due to its aggressive behavior and fast growth rate. Largemouth Bass, on the other hand, is known for its size and is sought after by those who are looking to catch trophy-sized fish.

Northern (Native) Largemouth Bass

• Northerns are tough fish that can survive in a wide range of water temperatures from “ice over” to warm summer water.
• They have relatively fast growth rates that, depending on the pond’s forage fish base and if there are supplemental feeders utilized, can range up to two pounds a year. Even with relatively fast growth, the Northern strain bass rarely get over 10 pounds.
• They readily strike lures and baits and are naturally aggressive.

Florida Strain Bass

• Perfect for warm climates but not great for surviving colder weather conditions.
• They add weight quickly and consistently, even in older age and can get up to the 20-pound trophy level.
• When the water temperature drops, they become more lethargic and tend to lose aggressiveness in terms of biting lures and baits.

F1 Largemouth (Tiger Bass)

This is a hybrid mix between a Northern bass and a Florida bass and the result is the best of both strains.

• Can survive colder water better than Florida bass.
• Consistent growth rate over a longer period. F1s, like Florida bass, can grow upwards of 20 pounds and in well managed ponds can add two pounds a year. The U.S. record largemouth bass weighing 22 pounds 4 ounces was caught in Lake Montgomery, Georgia in 1932 is thought to be a cross between a Northern and Florida bass.

Brian Senn, host of the Great Days Outdoors weekly Alabama Freshwater Fishing Report. Senn has interviewed a number of sources regarding growing trophy bass in ponds and knows all about largemouth bass strains.

“They are aggressive feeders (not as aggressive as the Northern strain) and make for a good fishing quarry but they lose some of that aggressiveness as they mature and are a bit more reluctant to hit lures and become harder to catch. Consequently, you may need to restock them every four to six years to maintain the vigor of the Tiger population,” Senn said.

Are Tiger Bass the Solution to Your Problem?

Norman Latona is the founder and owner of Southeastern Pond Management, headquartered in Calera, Alabama with offices in two other states. Southeastern Pond Management offers full-service pond management services including fish stocking, fertilizing and weed control, electrofishing, pond design and construction and more.

“If you are catching a fish that has a bucket mouth, a five-pound head, and yet he weighs a pound and a half or catch a fish that weighs two pounds that isn’t plump and has a sucked-in belly, there probably is a balance issue,” Latona said. “That is what we refer to as bass or predator crowded and it is the most out-of-balance condition we run into,” he said. “The fish may be easy to catch, but it is frustrating and not that much fun when small bass is all that you catch.”

Latona points out that bass are like aquatic “saber-tooth tigers’ in that they are voracious feeders and if there are too many of them, they will eat themselves out of house and home. The result is a bass population of a bunch of “stunted” small fish. In a nutshell, to fix this problem you need to make a concerted effort to reduce the number of predator bass per acre, either by time and effort intensive “hook and line” methods (fishing) or the more efficient electrofishing, for which Southeastern Pond Management has the equipment and expertise to do. Once the predator population is at a manageable level then you can concentrate on the forage fish base.

“We utilize electrofishing and we can be very selective. It doesn’t hurt the fish. It just stuns them and we can pick and choose which fish we take out. So, in that respect, it’s probably even a better approach than hook and line and the process doesn’t damage any fish that we don’t want to remove,” Latona explained. “Electrofishing doesn’t really discriminate, it removes fish, not just the aggressive fish, not just the fish that don’t tend to be aggressive, we just select based on size. Obviously, we don’t take the seven to nine-pound fish, since these are the ones we are trying to produce.”

Tiger Bass Stocking Points to Consider

Both Latona and Senn pointed out that generally, the best time to stock F1 Tiger Bass is in the spring and early summer and, to avoid winter and high summer periods, which are greater fish stress times in order to keep mortality rates down.

The stocking issue is easier if you have a new pond than an existing one. In a new pond, there aren’t any predator fish present and it makes sense to stock your forage fish (bluegill and threadfin shad) first to allow them to get a solid base established before you introduce the bass predators. In an existing pond with a decent forage base, it is a good idea to remove as many of the “resident” predator bass as possible before you add the Tiger Bass… and the reason is size.

Senn said that in discussing this issue with a number of different sources, the typical size of a Tiger Bass brood fish is one to three inches which is the perfect size for dinner for resident predator bass. That defeats the whole purpose of introducing the new strain if they are going to be eaten before they can grow.

“The typical size of a Tiger Bass fish is one to three inches and the normal rate of stocking for that size fish is 50 to 100 per acre. Now if you haven’t reduced the predator bass presence in the pond it makes sense to stock Tiger Bass in the bigger six-to-eight-inch size so they won’t get gobbled up by the resident bass and more will survive.”

“I’ve found that, in general, the cost of a one-to-three-inch Tiger Bass is about $1.50, and for the six-to-eight-inch stock is about $6.00. So for a three-acre pond at 100 small fish per acre, it will cost you $450.00 but if you stock the larger fish at only 50 per acre the cost is twice that. It is a tradeoff depending on the situation. Southeastern Pond can help you determine the best route to take and advise you on the predator fish to forage fish ratio to get everything in balance and can help you fine-tune your pond depending on your goals.”

Do Tiger Bass Reproduce?

Tiger Bass, being a hybrid species, do not reproduce naturally. The crossbreeding of a female Florida Bass and a male Northern Bass is done through artificial propagation in fish hatcheries. The eggs of the female Florida Bass are fertilized with the milt of the male Northern Bass to produce the hybrid Tiger Bass offspring.

Since Tiger Bass is a sterile hybrid, it cannot reproduce naturally in the wild. This means that to maintain the population, they need to be produced in hatcheries and stocked into lakes, ponds, and rivers. However, some research has shown that in some cases, Tiger Bass may be able to reproduce with other bass species, producing hybrid offspring that have a different genetic makeup than the original hybrid.

Where Are F1 Tiger Bass for Sale?

F1 Tiger Bass are available for sale from Southeastern Pond Management and other private fish hatcheries that specialize in breeding and raising hybrid bass species. These fish hatcheries can be found in various locations throughout the southern United States, where Tiger Bass are most commonly stocked in lakes, ponds, and rivers for sport fishing. These hatcheries typically offer F1 Tiger Bass for sale in different sizes, ranging from fingerlings to adults.

If you are interested in F1 Tiger Bass stocking in your body of water, make sure you consult with a fisheries biologist to determine the appropriate strain of bass to stock and whether or not your lake or pond needs corrective action or amendments before you begin stocking. Done correctly, stocking bass can lead to years of enjoyment for you and your family. Done without proper planning, pond stocking may produce mixed results.

Explore dove hunting tactics, gear, seasons, and more in this complete guide to dove hunting

If you are new to wingshooting, then dove hunting is the perfect introduction for first-timers wanting to get into bird hunting. It lays the basic foundation for all the other upland disciplines. It’s a laid-back and enjoyable experience for beginners, and it’s a social hunting event. The action can go from zero to sixty in nothing flat.

Depending on where you live in the United States, the seasons and species for dove hunting fill up all 365 days a year offering a wide variety of situations and experiences to help fill the gaps of other bird hunting pursuits. From the iconic mourning dove, to the year round season of the invasive Eurasian collared dove the fun and food can be never-ending. To other less known species like the white-winged dove.

Dove hunting is as simplistic as you are going to get. The basic premise for dove hunting includes carrying a shotgun from a vehicle to a field, sit (bucket) or stand, wait for passing or decoying doves to fly close, and shoot. That, in a nutshell, is Dove Hunting 101. Just like in any type of hunting, there are those that go “all out” when dove hunting, but it is not necessary to do so. So, how do you get started?

Dove season dates and licenses

September 1st is the day that signals hunting season has begun! For a first-time dove hunter, the first thing at the top of the list should be to check season dates. Some states have an early and a late dove season. Being familiar with regulations is very important. Checking the state game and fish websites or visiting the local office should provide all the information needed. Most sites will also provide photos for proper dove identification.

Besides purchasing a regular hunting license, dove hunters are required by law to participate in the Harvest Information Program (HIP). This may require buying an additional permit or “stamp” if hunting migratory birds— dove, coot, rail, snipe, sandhill crane, waterfowl, and woodcock. Typically, the cost is only a couple of dollars. When the stamp is purchased, hunters will be asked to indicate which birds were hunted the previous year. At the end of the hunting season, HIP stamp purchasers will be randomly surveyed by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. Responding to the survey provides important information for setting and justifying future migratory game bird seasons.

Choosing a shotgun for doves

Is there such a thing as a perfect shotgun for hunting doves? Maybe, but the truth is nearly any shotgun will work. If each hunter could draw up their ideal shotgun for dove hunting, you would get hundreds of different opinions, each one valid. Beginners shouldn’t allow themselves to get sucked into the “shotgun vortex” that defines what gun to use for dove hunting.

For the beginner, any shotgun that’s available will work. Most shotguns will be in the 12- or 20-gauge range. Whether owned or borrowed, these gauges will be the norm in most dove fields. Yes, once in the field, an array of shotguns will echo their presence—from hand-me down wooden pumps to slick black and camouflaged semi-autos, to single-shots and doubles, to over/unders and side-by-sides. Gauges will read like a ruler: 12-, 16-, 20- and 28-gauges and .410 caliber. All are great choices but the 28 and .410 are going to be carried by those with years of experience shooting grey rockets with little toy-like cartridges.

New dove hunters should be aware that repeating shotguns, which include both pump action and semi-automatic, have tubular magazines. These types of shotguns MUST be limited to holding only three shotshells (“plugged”) while dove hunting. Federal regulations require that when hunting migratory birds, the tubular magazine must have a plug inserted so that the total holding capacity of the shotgun does not exceed three shot-shells (one in the chamber, two in the magazine).

Beginners shouldn’t allow choosing a shotgun to be difficult. Use what you have or what you can get your hands on. As with learning anything new, ask a hunting mentor for assistance and advice.

READ: Choosing a Shotgun for Dove Hunting

Choosing ammunition and chokes for dove

If choosing a shotgun for dove hunting is confusing, then staring at all the variety of shotshells will send a new dove hunter into a frenzied panic. Take a deep breath and step back. Novice dove hunters will see an array of colorful cardboard ammo boxes adorned with artwork and photos of flying doves and with alluring words such as “dove” and “small” Game Loads.

READ: What Chokes and Shot Size to Use for Dove Hunting

Regardless of the temptation, beginners should stick to the most popular of the smaller shot sizes: 7, 7-1/2, or 8s. This range of shot is best suited for both early and late season doves. It doesn’t take a whole lot of pellets to bring down a dove, and smaller shot sizes offer more pellets down range. Because doves are fast flyers and tricky to hit, open shotgun chokes such as Improved Cylinder or Modified are recommended to allow the pellets to spread out and create a larger, more open pattern.

Dove hunters should pay attention to area rules and regulations pertaining to the type of shot allowed. While lead is still the most popular, shooters should check their respective state regulations. Many areas managed by the state require steel or other non-toxic shot (tungsten or bismuth) when dove hunting on public accessed lands.

READ: Why I Stopped Shooting Lead at Doves

Shooting skills are a factor for each dove hunter. Shooters should bring along more ammunition than they think they’ll need as September speedsters can prove even the most skilled wingshooter wrong.

Dove hunting clothing

Let’s be real: a pair of jeans (earth tones if possible) and a camo shirt will work. I know I may get some flack for saying that, but truth be told, khaki or brown pants paired with a green shirt or whatever camouflaged pattern of the day is can be worn effectively on a dove hunt. Dove hunters should find some type of camo or earth tone bird vest or wingshooters belt to carry the basic essentials such as ammo, doves, and water. Dove hunters should locate a good place to conceal themselves and wait until it’s time to pull the trigger. Enough said.

Where to dove hunt

Dove hunting is as simple as finding a location where doves are congregating and feeding. Harvested wheat stubble or corn silage fields, ponds with exposed banks and weed cover, and harvested sunflower fields are all excellent locations to target. Refer to state websites again and check for state-managed dove fields on publicly-accessible lands.

Read: How to Identify Mourning Dove Habitat

Basic dove hunting methods

Pass-shooting (shooting birds as they fly over) is probably the most common method of hunting doves. If hunting in the morning, dove hunters should set up no later than sunrise. Evening shooters will be most successful right before dusk. Both beginners and experienced dove hunters must resist the temptation to fire off rounds until doves cross into range. This means knowing the effective range of your choke. For most, that’s forty yards or less.

The other method is to use dove decoys to draw them in close for possible shots. Motion dove decoys are best, as movement lures doves in. Adding a few stationary decoys will add to the overall effectiveness.

READ: Duping Doves with Decoys – The Three D’s

For those that cannot sit still you can explore the idea of walking up doves while hunting.

Eating dove is delicious

For beginning dove hunters, whether it’s a small pile or a limit of grey birds, cooking up doves is the culmination of a successful hunt. The easiest way to savor those tasty doves is also the traditional way—wrap ’em up in bacon with a slice of jalapeño. As any dove hunter knows, there’s no greater mouth-watering delicacy!

To find our more about dove hunting on Project Upland check out the category: Dove Hunting

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Why I Stopped Shooting Lead at Doves

What Chokes and Shot Size to Use for Dove Hunting

Hunting Eurasian Collared-Dove in the Summers of the United States