Whether we’re ready to admit it or not, the number of natural disasters that occur each year has steadily increased over time. From flash floods and wildfires to heat waves and hurricanes, major events are plaguing the planet more consistently, which puts us at risk when help is hours, days or even weeks away. To prepare for such events, the Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) recommends we put together an emergency supply kit that contains batteries, first aid supplies, water and food. But a kit filled with perishable foods won’t do you good—any kit worth its salt should contain the best emergency food supplies.

Thanks to their astoundingly long shelf life—up to 30 years in some cases—emergency food supplies are perfectly suited for your preparedness kit. They’re typically offered in larger quantities with individually packaged meals that take minutes to prepare. And while some kits require hot water (in which case, you’ll need to add a camp stove to your kit), others can be rehydrated with nothing more than cold, bottled water (though you should still have a water filter handy just in case).

Non-perishable food kits have long been associated with campers and travelers, but for many of us, keeping long-lasting food on hand just makes good sense. These emergency food supplies tend to be affordable, convenient, easy to use and they last forever, which is why you should keep some in your pantry, garage or basement should you need it.

With this in mind, we’ve rounded up the best emergency food supplies for your basement stockpile, backcountry survival kit or dedicated bug out bag. This list includes options for people with dietary restrictions or specific preferences, and it includes kits that actually taste good, which makes it easier to literally weather the storm.

• Best Emergency Food Supplies For Families: ReadyWise Emergency Food Supply
• Best Emergency Food Supplies For Vegetarians: Survive2Thrive Vegetarian Preparedness Pail
• Best Gluten-Free Emergency Food Supplies: Mountain House Essential Bucket
• Best Emergency Food Supplies For Appetizing Fare: Good To-Go Emergency Food Kit
• Best For Variety: Augason Farms Emergency Supply Food Kit
• Best Emergency Food Bars: S.O.S. Rations Emergency Food Bars
• Best Splurge-Worthy Emergency Food Supplies: Momofuku Noodle Variety Pack
• Best Emergency Canned Food Supplies: Scout Smoked Wild Pink Salmon
• Best emergency Hydration Supplements: Protekt Hydration Supplements

How We Chose The Best Emergency Food Supplies

As backpackers, homeowners and family members, we understand the unique challenges that come with sourcing food in the midst of unpredictable circumstances. We’ve camped in the backcountry for weeks at a time, just as we’ve endured long-term periods without power, and were it not for emergency survival foods and other dehydrated meal kits, we likely would have found ourselves in tough situations. As such, we know what to look for when testing, reviewing and researching emergency food supply options, and we know how to source credible options that speak to quality and extended shelf life.

When assembling this review, we considered each meal kit’s serving size, shelf life, total weight and nutritional value before weighing these factors against their respective reviews. We scoured the web for options, spoke with experts, poured over hundreds of reviews and tested many of these products ourselves. Only the best survived our rigorous testing.

Why Trust Forbes Vetted

At Forbes Vetted, we know how frustrating and time consuming it can be to spend hours sifting through a seemingly endless list of survival products and online reviews. That’s why we took the headache out of the process by testing and reviewing many of these products ourselves. And because the emergency food landscape is changing in accordance with the times, we update this list regularly to reflect the best options and up-to-date information. This list was last updated September 2024.

What To Consider When Shopping For Emergency Food Supplies

Investing in emergency food supplies is a crucial step in ensuring you and your family are prepared for unexpected scenarios. To find the right emergency food for your needs, consider these essential variables:

Nutritional Content

Look for foods that offer a balanced nutritional profile, including protein, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals, and check for allergen information, especially if anyone in your household has dietary restrictions.

Shelf Life

Longer shelf life ensures that your supplies remain edible for an extended period, so be sure to evaluate both freeze-dried and canned options, as they often have different shelf lives.

Storage Requirements

Determine whether the food requires special storage conditions, such as cool, dry places, and consider space limitations when storing bulk supplies. If live in a home with a garage or basement, storage won’t likely be an issue, but if you live in a smaller apartment you may need to take kit size into consideration.

Caloric Value

Calculate the daily caloric needs of your household members to ensure you have enough food to sustain everyone—some emergency food supply kits are designed to provide a specific number of calories per day.

Food Variety

Aim for variety to prevent flavor fatigue during extended emergencies, and to do this, look for kits that offer a mix of entrees, sides, snacks and beverages.

Special Dietary Needs

Consider any dietary restrictions, allergies or preferences within your household when selecting supplies. Be sure to seek out options that cater to specific diets, such as vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free or kosher, as these dietary restrictions will limit which foods you can store.

Ease Of Preparation

Examine the simplicity of cooking or rehydrating the food, especially if you don’t have access to elaborate cooking equipment. Some emergency meals only require hot water, while others may need additional ingredients or equipment.

Taste And Quality

Emergency food supplies don’t generally taste all that good, but you can still read reviews (or sample products if possible) to assess the taste and quality of the emergency food supplies. If it tastes good, there’s a better chance you’ll be willing to eat it, even in the midst of an emergency.

Are Survival Food Kits Worth It?

Survival food kits represent a low-cost, risk-free means of preparing for the unpredictable, which makes them a worthwhile investment. While we can’t recommend replacing your normal diet with survival food options (these kits don’t offer a number of essential nutrients, despite claims that suggest otherwise), we can recommend keeping a kit in your basement on the off-chance that you need it.

Should I Stock Up On Emergency Food?

According to the FEMA, your emergency kit should contain at least a three-day supply of nonperishable food. The agency also recommends choosing foods your family will eat and paying attention to special dietary needs. Common non-perishable foods include protein or fruit bars, dry cereal, ready-to-eat canned options and high-energy foods.

What Is The Best Survival Food Supply?

The answer to this question depends on your personal situation and what sort of emergency, natural disaster or food shortage you’re preparing for. If you live in a part of the country that isn’t prone to natural disasters, you may be able to get by with a stockpile of peanut butter, granola bars, water and canned beans and vegetables. But if you live in an area that tends to experience hurricanes, earthquakes, tornadoes or wildfires, you may need to invest in larger quantities of emergency foods that can be prepared with only water and are highly portable should you have to leave your home.

Spider Rigging For Crappie

Spider rigging for crappie looks simple enough — a bunch of fishing rods weaving a web of lines from bow to stern. A closer look at the boats of crappie pros reveals that their spider rigs are intricate systems based on exact rod positioning and specialized rod-holder designs. The pros set up their spider rigs differently depending on the situation, whether it’s fishing deep brushpiles, open-water structure, shallow vegetation, or for pushing crankbaits.

The most essential pieces of equipment for spider-rigging are the rods and holders. “The key is to make sure the rods are all the same,” says Barry Morrow, a guide on Oklahoma’s Lake Eufaula. “All the rods should be the same length, power, and action, and they should be adjusted to the same height in the rod holders, so that you are able to decipher the motion of the rod tips to detect bites. If you are using different types of rods they’re all bowed differently and respond differently to strikes, making it more difficult to interpret rod-tip and line movement.”

Preferences on rod-holder design vary among the pros, but there’s one that top anglers all agree on: Rod holders need to be stable. “When I mount a set of rod racks, I want those things not to move,” says Alabama guide Brad Whitehead. Beyond that, top spider-riggers have developed individualized setups to suit the situations they fish.

Probing deep brush

For spider-rigging over brushpiles on Wilson and Pickwick lakes, Whitehead prefers 12-foot rods at the bow. He places 10-foot rods across the stern for his clients because the shorter rods are easier for them to handle. Rods are spread evenly across the bow and stern for uniform coverage and easy access to the poles. “I’m a fanatic on keeping 11„2 feet between each rod,” says Whitehead, who also keeps each rod tip about 8 to 10 inches above the water.

He usually sets his baits at different depths, varying about 1 to 2 feet. “I want my shallowest rods to my right and left, but the deepest rods are always the two in the middle,” he says. His poles are rigged with B’n’M Capps and Coleman Minnow Rigs (with a 1-ounce weight).

Whitehead’s choice of rod holder is a four-pole Hi-Tek Stuff mount. He positions two of the mounts about 3 feet apart on the bow and stern. “Position rod racks so when you are sitting, you don’t hit your knees on the rod handles,” he says. “Make sure they’re far enough away, but not too far to where you have to bend to get the rods. You want to be able to sit up straight when you grab rods.”

Pad fishing

Six-time national champions Ronnie Capps and Steve Coleman are renowned for their spider-rigging tactics in the lily pad stems at Reelfoot Lake. The key to their setup is a customized pole-holder system with independent mounts rather than a rack that holds multiple rods. “The rod holders cradle the poles so you have no trouble getting your hand between the forks of the holder and the rod butt. And when you grab a pole out of the holder it’s a quick reaction,” says Capps. “You’re able to get your hand in there with no problem.

“The reason for the independent holders is because I want my poles to be ultra still. With a T-bar type mount, on the other hand, if you grab one pole from a set of four, you disturb the other three rods and you can’t detect a bite. With independent holders, you can detect bites well. I also think fish bite better when a pole isn’t moving much.

Capps is constantly moving his poles off the pad stems to prevent hang-ups. He says the individually mounted holders are critical in this situation because getting hung up on one pole doesn’t disturb the others.

The Tennessee pro also prefers a rod holder with a Y-fork cradle rather than a U-shaped cradle, for better hook-sets. “If you see a bite and the line is scooting to the left, you want to set the hook to the right. But with some of the U-shaped holders there is only one way to get that pole out — straight up,” Capps says.

The depth and cover Capps fishes determines how far apart he positions 8 poles across the front of the boat. “If I’m fishing shallow and directly into spots that I expect fish to be in, I bunch poles tight,” he says. “If I’m trying to cover more area on a shallow flat, I set them farther apart.”

For pushing a single 1/16-ounce jig on 6-pound line in the lily pads, Capps uses 16-foot B’n’M jig poles (model BGJP163). “I get more bites having my baits farther from me with 16-foot poles than I do with 14-footers,” he says, also noting that 16-footers allow him to cover a wider swath of water. Extra length also keeps his jigs farther from the boat, away from trolling motor noise that could spook shallow fish.

Riprap and breakline trolling

Oklahoma guide and tournament competitor Todd Huckabee prefers single-pole fishing whenever possible. But there are certain conditions when he resorts to spider-rigging, such as during the postspawn on his home waters of Lake Eufaula when crappies pull off the bank and suspend 2 to 6 feet deep over riprap and breaklines in the depth range of 10 to 15 feet.

Four-rod Perotti-Bilt rod holders are Huckabee’s choices for spider-rigging. “They are simple and sturdy,” he says. “When a fish hammers one pole, the other three don’t shake — you can tell which pole got the bite.” He mounts his rod holders on each side of the boat’s bow, positioning the rods about 2 feet off the floor. “I want rods set where I can reach over and set the hook quickly, without having to bend over too far,” he says.

His choices for spider-rigging poles are 11-footers with plenty of backbone. “When I get bit I can pull the fish up with that pole in between all the other poles.” he says. Huckabee sometimes varies his presentation between minnow rigs and tandem-jig rigs, but most of the time he spider-rigs with two jigs of varying colors.

Pushing crankbaits

Pushing crankbaits in front of his boat has become an effective spider-rigging trick for Barry Morrow. The tournament competitor and guide rigs each 11-foot pole with a 2- to 3-ounce egg weight, glass bead, and swivel, followed by a Lindy Shadling crankbait on a 3-foot leader. When he fishes tournaments with a partner, Morrow pushes crankbaits with 8 rods, starting with 2 pointing straight out the nose of the boat and the other 6 spread about 2 feet apart on the port and starboard sides.

Morrow also uses 4-pole Perotti-Bilt holders that allow him to easily adjust the rod positions. “I like to have a rod rack that is adjustable vertically as well as horizontally,” he says. Wind and wave action usually dictate how high he positions his rods over the water. He says the lower the better, preferring to keep rod tips about 3 inches above the water.

The next time you see a spider-rigging setup, you might be able to decode their fishing situation. Or someone might be studying your boat, trying to unravel the crappie-catching web you’re weaving.

What’s the difference between first focal plane vs second focal plane?

A first focal plane reticle enlarges and shrinks as you adjust the magnification while the second focal plane remains the same size.

Why does that matter and which focal plane scope should you choose?

By the end of this article, you’ll fully understand both types of focal planes so you can choose the best rifle scope for your needs.

Let’s get started!

What is the First Focal Plane?

There are two locations where a reticle can be installed within a rifle scope: the first focal plane (FFP) or the second focal plane (SFP).

With a first focal plane scope, the reticle is physically placed on the “front” of the erector tube assembly and magnification lenses. The first focal plane is furthest from your eye when looking down the sight.

How does that make a difference?

With a First Focal Plane scope, the size of the reticle will appear to grow or shrink as the scope’s magnification is increased or decreased, respectively.

Now that you’ve got the basics, let’s talk about the pros and cons…

First Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

With the first focal plane optics, the reticle size is going to scale up or down with your magnification adjustments.

This means your trajectory markings, or holdover values, are going to remain accurate regardless of what magnification setting you’re on. This is great news if you hate doing math!

But, it comes at a cost…Literally.

The price is often higher by virtue of its more complicated construction. A first focal plane reticle is also typically associated with higher-end scopes.

With first focal plane scopes, the reticle will look small and thin with less power while the reticle will be thicker at higher power.

It can be easy to lose those thin reticle lines, especially against dark backgrounds. Although, some of the best Leupold riflescopes have illuminated reticles for better visibility.

Also, the reticle can cover too much target at the highest setting. If this is a dealbreaker to you, that’s where Second Focal Plane comes into play…

What is the Second Focal Plane?

The most common design is SFP, or a Second Focal Plane scope. It’s also referred to as Rear Focal Plane.

With a second focal plane scope, the reticle is placed behind the magnification lenses on the erector tube assembly.

The second focal plane scope is closer to your eye. Therefore, the reticle stays the same size at any magnification range.

Now, let’s talk about the pros and cons of this…

Second Focal Plane: Pros and Cons

Its lightweight, great resolution, and durability against heavy cartridges make it a popular choice among hunters and law enforcement.

With the second focal plane, your units of measure per each hash mark (MOA or MRAD) represent the same value regardless of your magnification setting.

However, the spacing for holdover in the reticle is only correct at the highest magnification setting. So, it’s not always reliable for variable long-range shooting.

For example:

Let’s look at the Viper HST 4-16×44. This is a second focal plane scope with a magnification range of 4-16x. The Viper HST has hash marks representing 1 MOA but this is only true at its full magnification: 16x.

Of course, you can always do the math in between. But it becomes complicated and confusing and we all know that’s no bueno.

Second focal plane scopes are more commonly seen in the average riflescope and they’re easier to manufacture. That’s why they’re typically less expensive.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for close-range shooting

A second focal plane scope is more suited for close-range hunting and defensive shooting.

Why?

Because you have a strong and easy-to-see reticle even at the lowest magnification. With low-powered optics, like 1-4X optics, this is a highly undervalued feature.

When it comes to a First Focal Plane scope, you can easily lose sight of your marks at low power. This can be a hassle when you need to make adjustments for the wind or distance— especially for older eyes.

Since you’d have to zoom out to get the rest of the marks in the scope’s view, your target shrinks relative to your view. If you’re hunting small game, this can be an inconvenience.

First Focal Plane vs. Second Focal Plane for long-range shooting

First focal plane scopes are best for competitive and long-range precision shooting.

The hash marks represent the same value across all magnification levels. It allows you to use and trust those holdovers at any given point in your magnification.

This is an advantage for spotting impacts and misses for corrections. It’s also very helpful if you need rapid and precise follow-up shots.

Hitting something at longer ranges means getting as much precision as possible. With a second focal plane scope, making those fractional MOA adjustments becomes far more difficult.

Conclusion

The truth is— it’s a matter of preference and intended use. There is no “better” between the two focal planes.

Higher magnification ranges are better in a first focal plane scope. Lower magnification is fine for second focal plane scopes.

If you’re into precision shooting, especially in matches, and you don’t mind the cost: a first focal plane riflescope is great to have.

If you won’t be taking many shots where you need to “hold” for windage or elevation, a second focal plane scope is more than enough. Plus, it won’t necessarily break the bank.

There are other things you need to consider before buying an optic— like choosing the best quick detach scope mounts. At least when it comes to a SFP scope vs a FFP scope, you won’t be scratching your head anymore.

Since we’re on the topic of upgrades, my AR-15 A2 front sight removal guide is up. Go check it out!

Wild game meat is an excellent bait for coyotes. These wandering canines love fleshy game, so pig meat and dear meat make great coyote bait. The pungent odor of aged meat can also be highly effective in luring these predators from afar, thanks to their sharp olfactory senses.

What Is the Fastest Way to Attract Coyotes?

Using meat from a coyote’s natural diet is effective most of the time. However, if their habitat is teeming with prey, coyotes may not be able to pick up on the scent as quickly.

Therefore, if you want to capture their attention, try baiting traps with exotic varieties of meat or organs that aren’t endemic to the local ecosystem.

Fish, beaver, and gopher meat are all hearty options that a coyote will enjoy. If you can procure these foods, you’ll have a higher chance of attracting these curious predators.

How Do You Bait a Coyote at Home?

Baiting a coyote at home will require you to have a meat source that they’ll enjoy. A frozen hunk of meat from a deer or pig carcass can do the trick. It doesn’t have to be cleaned beforehand; the bloody scent that emits from these carcasses can be used to attract coyotes from faraway distances.

At home, you can set up foothold traps or neck snare traps around your property. Coyotes are unpredictable creatures and can threaten humans and pets, so these traps ensure that any live trap mishaps may be avoided.

How Do You Bait Coyotes for Hunting?

A baitsicle, or a frozen food source, is an effective lure to hunt coyotes. These piles can include mounds of liver, fat, and entrails from game such as deer and hogs that will trigger a coyote’s scavenging instincts.

Ideally, place your bait near the edge of a woodline or an open, forested space where coyotes will feel safe venturing into. Position yourself about 100 yards away from the bait, where you can secure a good vantage point.

Once you see a coyote approaching the bait, take your shot. You may also use a coyote call lure to mimic these creatures into entering the baited area.

What Scent Attracts Coyotes?

The best attractant scents for coyotes are musks that mimic their natural diet. These food lures include the smells of blood, guts, and rotting flesh from deer, cows, and other wild game in the surrounding area.

Exotic meat scents can also be effective trapping lures for coyotes. Coyote urine may also be used as an attractant for these coyotes. It may also attract bobcats, raccoons, and foxes, so use them sparingly if you somehow have access to this liquid.

Lastly, a coyote gland lure can be an effective predator bait. This trapping bait indicates a coyote’s presence, triggering a male’s territorial response.

What’s the Best Time of the Day to Hunt Coyotes?

Coyotes aren’t strictly nocturnal but prefer prowling the lands between dusk and dawn. For this reason, many hunters prefer to start their coyote hunts around sunset and continue into the night.

That said, it’s challenging to spot coyotes during the nighttime, so plan your hunt during the break of dawn. The little bit of light in the sky can provide enough illumination to spot the predator without the aid of external light sources.

In a similar vein, sunset hours may also be effective. There’s enough ambient light, and coyotes are about to start a new day of hunting on their own.

Is It Better to Hunt Coyotes Day or Night?

If you’re coyote trapping, set it up during the day and leave it open for a coyote to wander in during the night. If you’re predator hunting on your own, you might want to hunt during the golden hours.

These are the times of the day when there’s enough illumination in the sky to spot a coyote. But it’s not so bright that the animals return or are still inside their habitat. If you’re aware of the coyote’s den, then you can also plan a hunt around their denning schedule.

Coyotes usually stick to one place to rest and raise their young, so finding and waiting around their den can lead to a successful hunt. Just be careful—these coyotes can get aggressive if they suspect their cubs are in danger!

Can You Bait Coyotes With Dog Food?

Coyotes have been known to enter yards to eat dog treats left out in the open. Especially in semi-urban areas, using this as a type of bait is entirely possible.

Depending on the coyote, they may even develop a preference for dog food over certain types of meat so that they can be ideal baits for some trappers.

Are Coyotes Attracted to Dog Urine?

While male dogs pee as a mark of their territorial boundary, coyotes don’t often get the memo. Coyotes are deterred by wolf urine but not dog urine.

In fact, the urine of female dogs in heat can attract their wild canid cousins like coyotes to enter your property. As such, it’s essential to control your dog’s urination if you live in an area with a high coyote population.

Do Coyotes Travel in Twos?

Coyotes travel individually or in pairs when they hunt. They may also form a coyote family of around 2 to 3 adults and 7 to 11 cubs, but these families will eventually break up and hunt on their own once they reach maturity.

They may work collaboratively with other coyotes to take down large prey, but if they’re not part of the family den, they won’t find the need to travel in a pack with this new group.

What Food Attracts Coyotes?

Coyotes have a varied diet consisting of meat, fruits, and detritus. Their typical diet includes:

• Rodents
• Dog food
• Carrion and dead game
• Livestock
• Poultry
• Insects
• Fruits

A coyote most commonly eats rodents and marsupials, which comprise about 75% of its diet. This includes mice, voles, chipmunks, skunks, rabbits, and squirrels.

They’re not picky when it comes to their food, either. They enjoy feasting on various types of meats, even once they’ve never eaten in the past.

When it comes to self-defense, there are several valid arguments for the 9mm vs 10mm handgun. Both are very popular and have their advantages and disadvantages. However, the 9mm is widely regarded as the ‘ideal’ handgun for self-defense and is one of the most highly used handguns in military and police forces. This goes for both home defense and conceal and carry. The popularity of the 9mm means that largely we have to defend the 10mm to justify it as a viable option.

Understand that the decision of which handgun to buy is a very personal decision. Every person has a different preference on weight, size, power, and recoil. Some people plan to conceal and carry, while others plan to use the weapon for home defense. Some stay in the city and worry about crime, while others spend time in the wilderness and are more concerned with predators. Before making a purchase, weigh your priorities and options to find the perfect fit for your needs.

Because of this, it’s difficult to label one as a better cartridge than the other. We will take a look at these two cartridges and discuss how they are similar and how they differ in some key ballistic and performance categories. We think that by the end of the article you will see that both have merit in the world of handguns.

History

The 10mm handgun was developed through a group effort by Col. Jeff Cooper, Norma, the FBI, and Smith & Wesson. The firearm was designed for use by FBI agents but was quickly set aside for other weapons. Some people claim that the recoil was too much for the wimpy FBI agents. However, the truth is that the weight and power simply slowed down their firing. Additional weight and recoil make target acquisition take a bit longer. When an agent is defending themselves and trying to put two or three rounds on a target quickly, the 10mm was not ideal.

The FBI did find that with different ammo, the 10mm handgun performed better in speed tests. The FBI lite load drastically reduced recoil and helped with performance. However, with a lighter load, it eliminated the need for such a heavy gun. This brought the FBI back to the 9mm, .45 caliber, and sparked the design of the .40 Smith and Wesson. It makes a strong argument for the 9mm vs 10mm.

The 9mm was first developed and used by the German military in the at the turn of the 20th century. From then, the cartridge saw use in both World Wars and was eventually accepted as a highly effective caliber by other European countries and North America. The 9mm soon replaced the commonly used .38 cartridges in the law enforcement community due to its stopping power and low recoil and is probably the most highly used round behind the .40 S&W. The 9mm provided extreme ease of handling, more stopping power than previously used rounds, and could carry more rounds in the magazine.

Let’s just take a look at the specifications of these two cartridges and see how they compare and contrast.

9mm10mm Parent Case7.65x21mm.30 Remington Bullet Diameter0.355”0.400” Neck Diameter0.380”0.423” Base Diameter0.391”0.425” Case Length0.754”.992” Overall Length1.169”1.25” Case Capacity13.3gr24.1gr Max Pressure (SAAMI)35,000psi37,500psi

From the cartridge measurements and specifications, it should jump out immediately that the 10mm Auto is a larger round than the 9mm.

10MM cartridges can hold much heavier bullets than the 9mm with some hunting and self-defense rounds coming in at 180-200gr. These bullets are much heavier than the more common weights used with 9mm rounds which commonly fall between the 115 and 140gr weight.

The 10mm Auto can be packed with a higher charge, which is needed to push such heavier caliber bullets at speeds needed for hunting and self-defense purposes. We will see shortly how these differences affect the terminal ballistics of these handgun rounds.

To compare, we select several specific rounds for each cartridge to compare in several categories. While these selections are only a small window compared to the amount of selections available, they will give us a good idea of how the two cartridges stack up next to each other, and for the most part, these trends can be extrapolated to most options available. Those rounds are listed below.

We also want to point out that you can play around with cartridge loads, including how hot the load is and the bullet type. A lot of shooters will reload their own ammunition to tailor their ammo to their needs. In this article, we are only looking at factory loads of these two handgun cartridges.

Stopping Power

One of the biggest discussion points when evaluating the 10mm vs 9mm or any other comparison of two handgun rounds is power. In self-defense, power equates to penetration or over-penetration. There are two schools of thought on power. Some gun owners want as much power as they can handle. They want to put down any target with one shot, regardless of what happens behind the target. This makes more sense for gun owners that use their handgun in the wilderness. You certainly do not want a lack of power if a bear or a wild hog is charging you.

On the other hand, is it responsible to have that much power? You might take down your target with one shot, but possibly injure or kill somebody standing behind that target or even in another room. It is quite possible for a strong round to travel through a body and then keep going through a wall. In ballistics gel tests a 9mm would typically travel about 13 inches after impact, while the 10mm was sometimes over 17 inches. This means that a 10mm could potentially travel through two people at center mass and still keep going. That is a huge amount of power. Of course, a lot of factors go into penetration and penetration is not the sole determinant of how effective a round is at disabling or deterring an aggressor.

However, in the question of bullet penetration from a 9mm versus a 10mm the key lies in the ammunition. More velocity does not always mean deeper penetration. When you switch to jacketed hollow point defense rounds, the penetration is about the same. The reason is that increased velocity causes a hollow point to spread faster after impact and to spread further. This creates more resistance and slows the bullet more than a round traveling at slower speeds. If you hit your target, the hollow point is just as safe as a 9mm round. While we will look at some numbers shortly, keep in mind that bullet type plays just as big a role in power and penetration. Two bullets with the same energy traveling downwind will penetrate differently if one is a controlled expansion bullet while the other is a hollow point.

More importantly, you should always think about the collateral damage before you fire any handgun. If you are not confident that you can hit your target without hurting other people, you do not take that shot. It is that simple. If gun owners are responsible about the way they use their firearms to defend themselves, then power is rarely an issue.

Before we move on, let’s take a look at some numbers for several popular 9mm and 10mm cartridges. We will look at the energy that is carried by the bullets, which transfers to the target and causes damage. And though we have talked briefly about penetration and the pros and cons to a deep penetrating defense-round, we will compare some sectional density data between the two.

Energy

The kinetic energy that is carried by a bullet is transferred to the surrounding tissue of the target. This kinetic energy damages and destroys tissue, organs, and nerves as it passes through. While only one variable in a bullets power, it is an important one and is easily comparable between rounds. Let’s take a look at the kinetic energy of the rounds we have selected for comparison and see if there are any trends we can pick up on.

It is very clear from this graph that the 10mm Auto rounds carry a much higher amount of kinetic energy from the muzzle out to 50 yards. Right at the muzzle, the 10mm Auto rounds are carrying anywhere from 300-400 more ft.lbs of energy than the 9mm rounds. A lot of shooters might consider this overkill, and for the range or maybe even intruders, it may well be overkill. For taking large game or punching through cover, it’s the amount of energy that is needed to be confident in stopping a charge.

Though the 10mm Auto has a significantly more amount of energy, the 9mm is not to be scoffed at. For self-defense purposes, having a force of 250+ ft.lbs from 25 yards and in is more than enough to cause enough damage to stop an intruder in their tracks. This decrease in kinetic energy, as we will see, also aids in other characteristics that make the 9mm one of the more popular personal defense rounds throughout the world.

Penetration

The best visual method of measuring penetration is through the use of ballistic gels, which we alluded to earlier. While there is nothing wrong with this method, it sometimes gets blown out of proportion, especially when you are trying to compare it to an armored or heavily clothed target, or an animal with a thick hide and skin.

In this section, we will look at the sectional densities of the various rounds. The sectional density is a measurement that comes from the bullets diameter and weight. The higher the sectional density, the greater the penetration potential. Using this, it doesn’t matter what the target is; we can still make accurate comparisons between rounds. We should note, and we discussed this earlier, that the bullet design and jacket are also major factors in how a bullet penetrates. Hollow points with higher sectional densities still might not penetrate as much as a FMJ with a low sectional density.

Still, we have a good selection of bullet types for our 9mm and 10mm selections so the sectional densities should give us some interesting comparisons.

Overall, the 10mm Auto rounds have slightly higher sectional densities than the 9mm rounds. With that being said, we can see that it varies from round to round. The 147gr 9mm round has just as high a sectional density as the 10mm rounds. Others that have lower sectional densities still might penetrate more than other with higher sectional densities due to their bullet design. For example, full metal jackets have a higher penetration than hollow points because they will not expand as rapidly.

For the 10mm rounds, you do need extra penetration for some applications such as hunting. Because of this, a lot of 10mm rounds have bullet designs that feature more controlled expansion. This allows the bullets to reach vital organs of larger animals but still provide enough expansion to cause maximum damage to surrounding tissue. While penetration is an important component to a bullets and cartridges stopping power, it is only a small portion of the overall equation and has other factors that contribute such as velocity, which we will move on to in the next section.

Velocity

Talking about velocity is important when discussing two handgun cartridges that are going to be used for self-defense purposes. Velocity plays a key role in terminal ballistics of the firearm, such as the categories we just finished discussing, and it also plays a role in how the bullet behaves when shot. Though the latter isn’t discussed as often because of the ranges shots are most often taken with these rounds.

Still, we felt that velocity is an important component to properly picking the right cartridge for your needs and will take a look at the muzzle velocities out to 50 yards for the rounds we have used in previous sections.

We can tell right off the bat that the 10mm Auto rounds have a higher muzzle velocity than the 9mm rounds. Most show around 100-200 ft/s increase in velocity, though the heavier 147gr 9mm round shows similar velocity patterns.

This trend continues for the rounds as they move downrange to the 50-yard mark. This trend makes sense as we already know that the 10mm Auto cartridges can pack a substantially larger amount of powder charge than the 9mm and is needed to fire the heavier pullets at a speed where the round would be effective in self-defense and hunting situations. Of course, the speed that these large bullets can travel is most likely going to mean an increase in the amount of recoil.

The increase velocities of the 10mm Auto rounds also affect the bullet’s penetration. The faster rounds can overcome resistance once it hits the target. Of course, expansion is going to slow down the round as it moves through tissue, but as a general trend, when looking at two of the same bullets, the once with a higher velocity is going to penetrate deeper.

Recoil

Recoil is probably the biggest argument in the 9mm vs 10mm debate, but it should not be. Yes, it is true that almost anybody can handle the recoil from a 9mm. Yes, the average 10mm round has noticeably more recoil than the average 9mm round. However, you will see a wide range of results based on the 10mm rounds you choose. If you go with a large, high speed round you will notice the recoil. However, there are plenty of rounds that have a similar kick to a 9mm. Experience handling firearms also plays an important role in handling recoil. Are there instances where the 10mm proved too much for certain agencies such as the short time in service for the FBI, sure, but that does not mean that is a round that no one of could become accustomed to handling with confidence.

Let’s take a look at some recoil data from several popular rounds for both cartridges.

What we are looking at here is the recoil energy produced from firing each specific round. While this is not the actual felt recoil, we can be safe assuming that increased force generated is going to equate to more felt kick.

It’s also important to remember that other factors come into how much recoil is felt when firing both of these rounds. Probably the biggest factor is the weight of the handgun. Shooting the same round from a 2lb and a 1lb handgun is going to feel differently. Most handguns chambered to fire a 10mm handgun is going to be heavier than a handgun chambered to fire a 9mm. This is especially true for handguns designed for concealed carry.

Still, for comparison, we have generated the below data by using a constant firearm weight for all of the rounds.

This is a category where there is no debate. The 10mm Auto rounds produce a significantly more amount of recoil than the 9mm. While the numbers do a good job showing this distinction, we recommend shooting both of these on the range one after another if you have the opportunity. The numbers alone don’t do the difference justice.

For all but the heaviest 9mm round, the 10mm Auto rounds generate 2 to 3X the amount of recoil energy. For handguns, when you get into the 10+ ft.lb of energy for recoil, you are talking about some pretty dramatic recoil and the ability to influence your shot. It also has a big role in putting quick consecutive shots on target.

While the difference in recoil is pretty drastic, it all comes down to the purpose for which you will be using your 10mm. If you are going to be in the bush and need it for protection against predators, then a heavier round and heavier recoil makes sense. Chances are you will only get one shot off anyways. If you are a city dweller and plan on using it against two legged predators, a light round is fine. There is no real benefit to using a more powerful 10mm round for normal self-defense.

Accuracy

In our experience, accuracy with a handgun is all about the handler. At the ranges you are going to be taking shots, there is no wind at play or bullet drop to compensate for. What does effect accuracy the most is inexperience handling nerves, adrenaline, and anticipating recoil.

For the latter, it’s all about practice on the range. We don’t put a lot of stock in other peoples ideas of accuracy. Most of them are phenomenal marksmen. We don’t doubt that, but trying to measure accuracy is difficult in our eyes because of all the factors that can go into it and vary from day to day.

The shooter and the firearm all impact accuracy and to tell which round is more accurate, you need to be on the range with your own handguns and rounds and measure groupings for several days.

With that being said, all of the rounds we have listed in the article and used for comparison have a good reputation for tight groupings at ranges within 25 yards. And since we are talking about the 9mm vs 10mm, recoil is going to play a significant role in any difference in accuracy between these two rounds.

With the 10mm Auto rounds having a significantly more amount of recoil compared to the 9mm rounds there is going to be a learning curve when it comes to placing consecutive shots on target. It’s not impossible, but a lot of potential buyers are going to be looking for a handgun where they can rattle off several shots without having to bring the gun back down several inches to re-center.

Price

In the cost debate between the 9mm vs the 10mm, the 9mm has a slight edge. While the guns themselves are similar in cost, the rounds off the shelf are much more affordable for the 9mm. However, there are two significant points to consider that negate this cost difference. One is that the cost to reload your own 10mm is almost identical to the cost to reload your own 9mm ammo. More and more gun owners are moving to reloading their own ammo to save on cost. I recently wrote an article that showed reloading the average 9mm round saves 73% versus the cost of buying off the shelf.

Moreover, when disaster strikes and ammo is hard to find the 10mm will still be left on the shelf. The 9mm ammo will be the first to go because a much higher percentage of gun owners use 9mm ammo. For me, this is even more important than the cost of the round. Many people hesitated to use their .22 rounds until the option of buying online came around. You simply could not find it in stores. All in all, we would call it a wash for many gun owners.

Let’s take a quick look at how much some specific rounds of this ammunition would cost you at local retailers and online vendors.

AmmunitionPrice (20 Rounds) 9mm Hornady Critical Defense FTX 115gr$17.29 9mm Federal American Eagle FMJ 115gr$14.29 9mm Winchester PDX1 Defender Bonded Jacketed HP 147gr$18.79 9mm Remington Ultimate Defense BJHP 124gr$22.99 10mm Federal Vital-Shok Trophy Bonded JSP 180gr$32.49 10mm Winchester Super-X Silvertip Hollow Point 175gr$21.99 10mm Hornady Custom XTP Jacketed HP 180gr$16.49 10mm Hornady Custom XTP Jacketed HP 155gr$16.49

Unless you’re looking to stock up on some of the high grade hunting ammunition options for the 10mm, there is not a huge difference in price between the better 9mm and 10mm rounds.

You can buy cheaper 9mm ammunition in bulk if you’re just looking to burn some powder at the range and for this, there are not as many options for the 10mm at the same price.

Availability

This is probably the most distinctive difference between these two cartridges. Without a doubt, the 9mm is much more readily available than the 10mm. While the 10mm has had a small resurgence in the handgun world over the last couple of years, you can find an abundance of 9mm ammunition at just about any retail store that carries ammunition. With the 10mm round, you are restricted to large retailers that carry a wide range of ammunition, and even then, you might not be able to find the exact round you are looking for. The internet has made it a bit easier to get your hands on 10mm rounds, but you will also find a lot of boxes out of stock or on back order.

As we stated earlier, there are also a lot more people looking to buy 9mm ammo. For normal day to day use, there is enough to go around, but if the time came to start stocking up heavily, the 10mm, in the end, might be left sitting on the shelf. That’s of course completely hypothetical.

Applications

The purpose of your firearm may greatly determine your argument between the 10mm vs the 9mm. The 9mm has several models with several sizes and several purposes. Just looking at the Glock you have a 17 for home defense, a 19 for primary conceal and carry, and a Glock 26 for a backup or pocket pistol. All of these models have good stopping power but different sizes for anybody’s specific needs. It’s honestly one of the best all around rounds for personal protection. The stopping power and the low recoil make it a round that anyone can become comfortable handling.

The 10mm is a bit more limited. If you needed to, you could use a 10mm for conceal and carry. It would be difficult. The gun is fairly large which makes it hard to conceal and less comfortable. Its primary purpose would be for home defense or wilderness defense and hunting purposes. While this limits the marketability of the 10mm over the entire potential customer base, it makes it the perfect weapon for a portion of the market. The 10mm is a niche around if there ever was one.

Best Rounds

We have looked at several specific rounds for both the 10mm and 9mm cartridge. We want to just briefly pick some of our favorite rounds from this selection for specific purposes. This is by no means a definitive answer for the different categories as we realize that there are a multitude of other options out there and of course, personal preference is a huge factor. Still, for those shopping around, these are our list for the best hunting, self-defense, and range rounds for both the 9mm and 10mm auto cartridges.

Hunting/Wilderness Protection

We don’t recommend the 9mm as a hunting cartridge. If you are looking for a handgun cartridge that is going to be effective hunting or for defense from large predators, you really need to look at larger calibers, such as the 10mm. As far as hunting rounds go, we love the 10mm Federal Vital-Shok Trophy Bonded JSP 180gr rounds. They have the penetration and energy to get through heavy hide, skin, and bones and cause massive damage to vital organs.

Self Defense

One of our favorite 9mm self-defense rounds is the Winchester PDX1 Defender Bonded Jacketed Hollow Point. The 147gr bullet gives it a little bit more punching power and the jacketed hollow point can punch through thicker clothing and still cause a considerable amount of tissue damage. It has a bit more recoil than other 9mm rounds, but it’s nothing you cannot acclimate yourself to after a few hours on the range. Heavier handguns will minimize recoil and makes it perfect for a home defense round.

Range

For this section, we only have a pick for the 9mm, and that is the Federal American Eagle FMJ 115gr rounds. For 50 rounds under $15, it’s hard to find a better deal on reliable ammunition that is not going to jam constantly and foul up your chamber and barrel. They also make a more than effective self-defense round as well.

Conclusion

The comparison between the 9mm vs the 10mm is a tough one for us. The 10mm has die-hard fans that are incredibly loyal. These owners love the power. They like knowing that their target will be disabled with one well-place shot. However, the majority of the market prefers the 9mm. It is more versatile, easier to handle, and safer in the minds of some users. There were undoubtedly several FBI agents that would prefer the power of the 10mm. In the end, the majority ruled and smaller firearms were chosen.

Again, this is a very personal decision. We like both weapons and own both for different reasons. When heading on a hog hunt in March, the 10mm will be along. For everyday purposes, the 9mm is used. Your best bet is to try out both at the range and see how they feel. For most people, if you can handle the recoil the 10mm is pretty incredible. Take your time and find the option that best fits your needs. Despite the differences in the 9mm vs 10mm, both are quality options. We are sure you will be happy with whichever option you choose.

This ground beef jerky is a mouthwatering option for those looking for traditional beef jerky flavor with a softer, easier-to-chew texture.

This is a great snack option for sensitive chewers such as kids or older folks.

This tender beef jerky recipe has the classic components of delicious beef jerky – a robust medley of savory spices, a touch of sweetness, and a hint of heat for perfect balance.

Chopped and formed jerky has a bad reputation as low-quality, commercial jerky producers see a ground product as an opportunity to use cheap meat and artificial ingredients. By making ground beef jerky at home, you have complete control over the type of meat and ingredients.

For example, if you have a soy aversion or eat gluten free, you can use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce. Like things spicy? Feel free to add cayenne pepper for some kick.

The protein source for this recipe uses beef, but you can easily adapt the recipe for other protein sources such as ground venison, ground pork, ground elk, ground turkey, and ground chicken. You can even grind your own meat for the recipe.

The key, regardless of the protein source, is to use lean meat. There are two important reasons to use lean meat. First, if the meat is too fatty, the finished ground jerky will fail to bind and crumble after cooking. Secondly, excess fat can turn rancid and develop “off” smells and colors. This is why we always recommend trimming as much exterior fat from whole-muscle jerky. Learn more in our guide to slicing meat for jerky.

Pro-Tip: When working with beef, opt for a minimum ratio of 90% lean to 10% fat (or higher). You can easily find these numbers of the ground beef packaging in supermarkets and stores.

The forming step is the most important step when making ground jerky. You have two primary options for making ground beef jerky—formed by hand and using a jerky gun. This recipe will provide instructions for both.

Looking to spice up your ground beef jerky game? Check out our beef jerky seasoning blends (Coming Soon! Sign-Up For Early Access). We conducted hundreds of batches to find the perfect all-in-one jerky seasonings. Our seasonings are perfect for ground beef jerky.

Let’s dive into the best ground beef jerky recipe.

Follow these step-by-step instructions to make the most delicious ground beef jerky.

1. Mix the ingredients with the meat.

The beauty of making ground beef jerky is you do not have to marinate the meat. This will save you between 16 and 24 hours, the typical marination type of whole-muscle beef jerky. Learn more about how long to marinate beef jerky (for traditional, whole beef jerky).

When working with ground beef jerky, fully mixing the ingredients with the meat will infuse the full flavor.

Start by mixing the dry seasonings and liquid ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Then add the meat to the mixture. Make sure to fully integrate the mixture.

Pro-Tip: Mixing the non-meat ingredients first will better distribute the flavor throughout the beef. Take your time with the mixing step to ensure that the flavor is evenly distributed throughout the meat.

2. Form the ground meat into strips.

This is where the magic happens. You have two options to form the ground meat into strips: using a jerky gun or forming the strips by hand.

Jerky Gun or Jerky Cannon

A jerky gun is a terrific tool to make ground beef jerky.

Also known as a jerky cannon, this jerky-making appliance compresses and extrudes ground meat into even strips. Think of a caulking gun but for jerky.

There are two advantages to using a jerky gun. First, you can achieve long, even strips. Each strip will have the same thickness which makes the cooking step a breeze. Secondly, most jerky guns come with a variety of nozzles so you can create a range of shapes including beef sticks.

Fill the chamber of the jerky gun with the ground meat, select your desired nozzle, and press the trigger to create long, even strips on your dehydrator racks. It’s as simple as that.

Have a pair of scissors or knife handy to trim the meat when you’ve completed a strip. You can also use your fingers to pinch the meat.

Pro-Tip: Make sure to pack the meat tightly so there are no air pockets. These air pockets will prevent the meat from extruding as a combined unit in long strips. Don’t worry, the jerky guns are very forgiving.

Want to buy your own jerky gun? Learn more about the best jerky guns on the market.

Forming Ground Jerky By Hand

If you don’t have a jerky gun or prefer to make ground beef jerky by hand. Here’s a quick and easy trick that will guarantee even strips of the same thickness.

Place the meat onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Place another piece of parchment paper on top of the meat. Use a combination of your hands, a rolling pin, and a large spoon to flatten the meat to an even thickness of ¼ thick.

Once the meat is spread evenly on the sheet pan, cut long strips with a knife or pizza cutter. Don’t worry if the scores do not cut all the way through the meat. As the jerky dries, it will separate and break easily.

Carefully remove the top piece of parchment paper and place your drying rack on top of the meat. With your hand on the drying rack, invert the sheet pan. Remove the sheet pan and the other piece of parchment paper. Simply place the drying rack with the meat on top back into the sheet pan and you’re ready to start cooking.

3. Cook the ground beef jerky.

You can cook your ground beef jerky in an oven, dehydrator, or even a smoker. The cook time will vary from device to device and even batch to batch. We recommend using a dehydrator for making any type of beef jerky at home as it delivers the most consistent results. We use the 9-Tray Excalibur Dehydrator Machine in our Test Kitchen.

Learn more about the best dehydrators for beef jerky.

Here are rough cooking guidelines for ground beef jerky.

Device

Temperature

Time

Oven

165°F -175°F

2.5 – 4.5 Hours

Dehydrator

165°F

3 – 4.5 hours

Smoker

160°F – 170°F

2.5 – 3 hours

To make sure your ground beef jerky is fully cooked, make sure to use the following signs:

• The internal temperature of the meat should be at 165°F. If you maintain the oven temperature for the minimum times recommended above and are working with strips around ¼”, the meat will be fully cooked. We’re checking for dryness at this stage.
• The meat should bend and break without falling apart or crumbling.
• The color should be a rich, brownish red.

Here’s our deep dive into how to tell if beef jerky is done.

5. Cool and enjoy!

There’s nothing better than warm, homemade jerky fresh out of the oven. Steal a few pieces and enjoy. Let the rest cool before storing.

We recommend storing the ground beef jerky in the refrigerator in an airtight container and consuming it within 1 week.

You’ve decided to hatch your own chickens, but there are hundreds of egg incubators to choose from. How do you pick the best one for you?!

I’ve been hatching chicken eggs for years and have used several different incubators along the way. I’ve had great successes and failures, both of which I’ve learned a lot from.

Choosing the best egg incubator for you is a make or break decision. When it comes to incubators, you really do get what you pay for. However, that doesn’t mean you need to go buy a professional-grade incubator for $3,000.

In this comprehensive article, I break down 8 of the best egg incubators in 2024 for backyard or homestead chicken keepers. I’ll also provide direct links to the product so that you don’t have to go searching around!

Let’s jump in!

*Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links to products (including Amazon). I’ll earn a small commission if you make a purchase through my link, at no additional cost to you! Regardless, I only link to products that I personally use on our homestead or believe in.

Key Features of the Best Egg Incubators

Incubators come in a wide variety of options as far as size, style, features and price are concerned. It can be overwhelming just searching through them all. Let’s chat about the key features that I look for when shopping for the best egg incubators on the market.

Airflow

All incubators should have vents for air exchange (developing eggs are living and breathing!), but there are 2 types of airflow methods that are important to pay attention to: still-air and forced-air.

• Still-Air Incubator: This is the most basic form that you’ll find in cheap incubators. It relies on simple gravity to naturally circulate the air with a concept similar to a still room with no vents. This often produces hot and cold spots throughout the incubator, resulting in a poor hatch with some chicks hatching early, and some hatching late.
• Forced-Air Incubator: This type of incubator has a built-in fan to evenly distribute the warm, humid air. This results in all of your eggs developing similarly and often, a better overall hatch. Splurging for forced-air is worth every penny in my opinion.

Automated Temperature

This is absolutely critical. Just a 1 degree difference can impact your hatch.

• If it runs 1 degree high, you’ll have an early hatch with chicks prone to splayed legs and trouble walking.
• If it runs 1 degree low, you’ll have a late hatch with chicks prone to crooked toes, thin legs and unhealed navels.

Therefore, it’s helpful to have an incubator that automatically adjusts throughout the day to keep things stable. Such peace of mind! If your incubator has a manual turn dial for temperature and your room temperature goes up… your incubator temperature will also go up.

Tip #1: Verify that your incubator is forced-air or still-air. Forced-air incubators require a temperature of 99.5 degrees where still-air incubators require 102 degrees, however this is a general guideline and I would follow the instructions in your operating manual.

Tip #2: Make sure that you have several additional thermometers placed in your incubator (placed at the height of the top of the eggs) to confirm that your built-in thermometer is reading true. I like to use probe thermometers and poke them through a vent hole. It is common for cheap incubators to run hot or cold. I’ve definitely had my own share of hatch losses due to incorrectly calibrated thermometers!

Humidity Control

Humidity is one of the hardest things to get right, in my opinion. A lot of smaller egg incubators rely on manual addition of water to channels built into the bottom of the incubator. Not only is this easy to forget about and makes travel impossible, but it’s not very adjustable either. Plus, in most models, you need to open the incubator to make adjustments, which is not ideal during the hatch.

If you can find an incubator that automatically draws in and adjusts humidity based on your settings, it’s worth the extra cost. I’ve even gone on international vacations while my automatic incubators were running and could relax knowing they were taking care of it all for me 🙂

Thankfully, the success of the hatch weighs more heavily on overall humidity throughout the hatch and spikes aren’t as big of a deal. However, is important to get it right because:

• If humidity runs too high, then the egg doesn’t lose enough moisture resulting in large chicks that can drown at hatching time.
• If humidity runs too low, then the egg loses too much moisture resulting in “shrink-wrapped” chicks that fail to hatch.

I’ve found my hatch successes to vary even by adjusting the humidity by 3-5%! You’d never be able to achieve that precision with manual adjustments. To verify that your humidity setting is correct, I highly recommend buying TWO of these hygrometers (only $5!). The cheaper incubators are notorious for having poorly calibrated digital displays, so using these will make sure you’re on track.

Digital Display

This is a slick option so you can easily adjust the settings and quickly check the status of your incubator at any time. Most egg incubators today come with a digital display.

Egg Turner

In nature, a mother hen will periodically adjust her eggs and rotate them throughout the day. When incubating, this practice needs to be mimicked as much as possible because rotating allows the yolk to remain centered in the middle of the egg vs sticking to the side.

Chicken eggs need to be rotated from side-to-side a minimum of 3 times per day, every single day, for the first 18 days of the 21 day incubation period.

If this seems like too much for you, definitely invest in an incubator that has an automatic turner. I like this option because it means less opening of the incubator (resulting in temperature and humidity fluctuations), plus reduces the risk of accidental egg trauma.

Alarm

Some egg incubators feature an alarm that goes off anytime the temperature goes above or below your predetermined “safe zone.” This can alert you to intervene before things go south.

Capacity

There is no one right answer to this question; it all comes down to what is best for you. Incubators can be as small as holding just 5 eggs or they can hold hundreds!

Think about your goals and how many chicks you realistically want to hatch:

• If you live in the city and can only have 5 hens, go for a small size. Keep in mind that roughly 50% will end up being roosters; plus, your hatch rate will likely be 50-80%. Therefore, if you want to end up with 5 hens, I’d plan to incubate 20 eggs to be safe.
• If you live in the country and/or are thinking about routinely hatching chicks to sell them to your community as a side hobby, definitely go big! I started with a 28 egg incubator and rapidly outgrew that size.

My rule of thumb is to always go bigger than you think you need. Hatching is highly addicting and you’ll be expanding before you know it!

Ease of Cleaning

This is super important because hatching is messy and ensuring sanitary conditions for the next round is critical for its success. If your incubator doesn’t come apart easily, or if it is made of styrofoam (notorious for being hard to clean), then you’ll have trouble with this. Plastic is the best choice.

Viewing Window

This is not absolutely necessary, but it makes hatching so much more fun! When hatching starts, you’ll often find me with a chair pulled up and my nose pressed to the glass watching all of my new chicks hatch!

8 Best Egg Incubators in 2024

Now that you know what to look for, let’s get into some of the best egg incubators on the market! If you’re willing to purchase an incubator through my links below (at no additional cost to you!), I’ll make a small profit, which allows me to keep sharing content with you awesome people. Thank you!

8 Best Egg Incubators in 2024

Want more details about each of these incubators? No problem; I’ve got you covered!

#1 Brinsea Mini II EX

If your goal is to have a small backyard flock, look no further! Brinsea is my absolute favorite brand of incubator. All of their products are high quality, reliable, easy to clean and come with a 3 year warranty (as long as you register your product).

The Brinsea Mini II EX holds 7 eggs, so this is a great place to start. Brinsea has 3 lines for each incubator: Eco, Adv & EX. While the EX line is more expensive, it has fully automatic humidity control and is worth every penny in my opinion. I’ve gone on vacation with mine running and didn’t have to stress one bit!

#2 Brinsea Mini II Advance

While my favorite Brinsea incubator is the EX line, I know that not everyone wants to shell out hundreds of dollars on an incubator. Therefore, the Mini II Advance is another excellent option from this same dependable company. The reduction in price comes from the manual humidity control compared to the Mini II EX.

It still has automatic temperature control, an egg turner, a great viewing window and it’s easy to clean. You can even adjust the intervals that your eggs are turned from 15 to 180 minutes. This is a best-of-both-worlds option!

TIP: If you have plans to hatch duck eggs, look for a larger incubator. This one is a bit too small for ducklings.

#3 KEBONNIXS 12 Egg Incubator

Fertile eggs are often sold by the dozen, so the fact that this incubator holds 12 eggs is great! It has a digital display of humidity and temperature, however, I highly recommend verifying their accuracy by adding your own thermometer and hygrometer. While this model requires you to manually add water to control the humidity, it is nice that you can add water externally. No need to open the lid!

This model also features a built-in egg candler so you can watch your baby chicks develop. Plus, the egg turner automatically stops 3 days before the hatch so that you don’t have to remember to turn it off.

TIP: The flooring is slick and can result in the chicks slipping and injuring their legs, so consider adding a layer of traction material to the bottom.

#4 Brinsea Ovation 28 EX

The Brinsea Ovation 28 EX is my absolute favorite incubator. Hands down. I’ve been debating buying a second one just because I love it so much. It really is the perfect size and I’ve had excellent hatches every single time.

It is fully automatic so it’s a true “set it and forget it” kind of incubator. I’ve gone on international vacations with this thing running and I didn’t have to worry about it at all! All of the pieces come apart for easy cleaning and it has a big viewing window to watch the hatch.

The best part of this incubator is how accurate and precise it is. I’ve thrown multiple thermometers and hygrometers in there to cross-check and this incubator is calibrated perfectly. I love that I don’t have to fuss with it or worry that something is off.

TIP: Don’t feel like you need to buy fancy replacement humidity sponges from the supplier. I just cut up basic $2 kitchen sponges that I find at the grocery store and it works great!

#5 Manna Pro Nurture Right 360 Incubator

The Manna Pro Nurture Right 360 Incubator is a great budget pick if you want to hatch a decent number of eggs (it fits 22). It is fully automatic, with the exception of humidity control. You’ll need to manually add water yourself to keep it consistent. A nice feature is that it has a 21 day countdown and automatically stops turning the eggs 3 days before the hatch.

Based on the reviews, the negatives are that the turner tends to struggle to turn heavier eggs and it beeps loudly when the turner engages. The built-in egg candler is also pretty weak. Lastly, this incubator can be more challenging to clean.

TIP: Be careful when removing the lid. It can be easy for eggs or chicks to fall out because there is no lip on the edges.

#6 IncuView All-In-One Automatic Egg Incubator

This incubator provides an incredible hatching experience with its large viewing window. You won’t miss a thing!

While it doesn’t feature automatic humidity control like the Brinsea models, it does provide digital display of humidity. Based on the reviews, the humidity levels do seem to fluctuate widely and need daily tweaking to hit your goal. As I’ve mentioned before, don’t trust that number alone! Always add an extra hygrometer or two to make sure it’s properly calibrated.

#7 Brinsea Ovation 56 EX

This is the big brother to my favorite incubator the Brinsea Ovation 28 EX. It’s also fully automatic, but twice as big. If you’re really wanting to hatch lots of chicks, this is an excellent option if you have the space.

It is fully automatic so it’s a true “set it and forget it” kind of incubator. I’ve gone on international vacations with this thing running and I didn’t have to worry about it at all! All of the pieces come apart for easy cleaning and it has a big viewing window to watch the hatch.

The best part of this incubator is how accurate and precise it is. I’ve thrown multiple thermometers and hygrometers in there to cross-check and this incubator is calibrated perfectly. I love that I don’t have to fuss with it or worry that something is off.

TIP: Don’t feel like you need to buy fancy replacement humidity sponges from the supplier. I just cut up basic $2 kitchen sponges that I find at the grocery store and it works great!

#8 HovaBator Genesis 1588

This wouldn’t be a complete incubator list without the classic foam incubator. While I have a love-hate relationship with them, this is often where most of us begin our incubating journey! They can be finicky and definitely require multiple thermometers and hygrometers, but this is an inexpensive way to hatch a lot of eggs.

TIP: I highly recommend placing a minimum of TWO hygrometers and TWO external thermometers (reading at a height at the top of the eggs) to verify that everything is running as it should.

While there are a lot of foam incubators out there that look similar to the HovaBator Genesis 1588 (and are a bit cheaper), don’t get swayed by the other options. I know you saw that $50 one at Tractor Supply… don’t do it! Many of them are junk and there’s nothing more heartbreaking than losing an entire hatch. I spent some time digging into each one and this one really seems to be the best budget-friendly pick out of them all.

Other Articles You’ll Love:

• Hatching Chicken Eggs: The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide
• Candling Chicken Eggs: Day-By-Day Development
• Brooding in Poultry: Everything You Need to Know!
• How to Care for Chickens: A Beginner’s Guide

Summary

That was fun! I hope you found this helpful in picking the perfect incubator for you and your homestead. As you can see, egg incubators come in many different styles, features and price points and we only covered 7 of them! It’s a small investment, so definitely spend some time reflecting on my 8 best egg incubators table to really feel out which one seems like the right fit. You can’t go wrong with any of them, really!

Once your incubator arrives, read the instruction manual and let it run for a minimum of 24 hours. After 24 hours, make sure to double-check its accuracy by inserting additional thermometers and hygrometers. If your digital reading is off, adjust your settings as needed.

Are you curious how to actually go about incubating eggs? This article by Backyard Chickens is the exact one that I learned from years ago. Then, once your chicks hatch, you’ll definitely want to check out my best tips for Brooding in Poultry.

If you liked this article, you’ll definitely want to read my article Cooking a Rooster: The Basics for when you end up with extra roosters after hatching! It’s wonderful to keep a couple good roosters around, but keeping more than your flock can handle can lead to fights and stress on your hens.

Happy hatching! 🙂

Quick Answers – Are These The Best Survival Backpacks?

#1 Best For Alpine Adventures – Black Diamond Jet Force Pro Avalanche Pack

#2 Best Army Style Survival Pack – 5.11 Tactical Rush Military Pack

#3 Best Big Survival Pack – WintMing 70L Camping Pack

#4 Best Hiking & Survival Pack – Osprey Stratos 36

#5 Survival Backpack For Long Weekends – Condor 3 Day Assault Pack

#6 Best Survival Backpacking Pack – Gregory Zulu 40

#7 Coolest Survival Bag – Kodiak Sitka Leather Messenger

Unfortunately, surviving in the wilderness is not just about a backpack. Bags can cart in plenty of dehydrated meals, but no pack can catch dinner for you. While these bags provide the customisable storage and carrying options to help you get out there, you need to have some survival skills to make it through the night.

Ordering a survival backpack and setting off on mad adventures without due preparation is likely to be a one-way ticket to giardia rather than paradise. Ease your way into the backcountry by making several quick-strike missions that allow you to gauge your readiness and prepare a list of essentials.

Packing up your backpack with the right gear is just as important as getting the correct nylon container. The longer you need to survive off of just the equipment on your shoulders, the more essential it is to get it right.

Stick around after our in-depth look at the best survival backpacks and come along for the ride as we explore some of the best gadgets and lightweight survival gear to fill up your bag with.

Backcountry, behind enemy lines, or on the Bangkok skyline, these powerhouses are in too deep to turn back now. Take your adventure to the next level or prep for anything with the best survival backpacks in the industry.

Each of these bags brings thoughtful design and reinforced materials to every corner and excels in one particular niche better than the competition. Choose your own adventure with the perfect bag for your particular wilderness style.

#1 Best For Alpine Adventures – Black Diamond Jet Force Pro Avalanche Pack

It is highly unlikely the apocalypse is right around the corner, but there are over 100,000 avalanches in the U.S. alone, every single winter. If you plan on spending serious time on snow-covered mountains or anywhere the weather can turn south fast, you need to prep with the mentality that it’s only a matter of time before rocks or snowfall will start tumbling down.

Spending less time in the lift line furthers your need for fundamental avalanche protections. Featuring a battery-powered electric fan that expands in one pull across your body, this beast can supply four airbags before it needs a recharge. The battery system means no unwieldy Co2 cartridges or single-use waste. The only thing this Alpine survivalist is missing is a jet pack.

This high tech backpack can save your life and stow it all, with models that fit between 10-35 litres of lifesaving equipment and a few yummy snacks. A modular booster system allows you to have access to all three different sizes depending on how long you plan on getting out there today.

#2 Best Army Style Survival Pack – 5.11 Tactical Rush24 Military Pack

The most iconic military style day pack on the market has pages full of copycats for many great reasons. The Rush24 means this pack can fit everything you need for 24 hours of survival rain, sleet, snow or shine in a muted exterior that’s tough as nails. Inside, the bag uses a half-zip to open up 37 litres of storage with great organisational mesh and full-on pockets.

When it ships to your front doorstep, the rough rider’s backpack will have about 14 different small orange flags that point out where this bag goes above and beyond the call of duty. Pouches and quick-access points are hidden across the exterior, and comfy shoulder straps help carry a heavy load.

The straps running across the outside of this survivalist are a carabiner away from hauling oversized sleeping pads, ropes, or anything else you want to bring without cramming.

#3 Best Big Survival Pack – WintMing 70L Camping Pack

At an incredibly affordable price, you can get your hands on 70 litres of camouflage storage by tomorrow and get into the woods before the end of the week. All this storage space brings more than enough room for staying deep into the woods for a week, or practically infinitely, if you find a water source.

You can collapse the bottom section to bring the storage down to 50 litres from 70, but this will be a heavy pack no matter what you fill it with. I wouldn’t recommend walking serious mileage with this thing fully kitted up, but whenever you do get to camp for the night, you’ll have all you need on your shoulders.

#4 Best Hiking & Survival Pack – Osprey Stratos 36

If we had to pick one pack to rule them all, it might be this lightweight Osprey option. For everything from weekend hikes to carry-on travel, this bag sits at a unique juncture that will help you fly through obstacles like a fast train.

At a mere 36 Liters, it may be slightly smaller than what you had in mind for surviving the apocalypse. Still, this ingenious bag can hold well above its weight. A hydration reservoir and rain cover give the pack protections usually reserved for more extensive hiking options, and a comfortable hip belt finished off the job.

Unlike other slim hiking backpacks, the awesome backpack makers at Osprey wasn’t afraid of a few extra grams and kept plenty of weight distributing comforts in this bag’s back. You should always plan for a bit of adaptability, so what better place to start than the most versatile bag in the business.

#5 Survival Backpack For Long Weekends – Condor 3 Day Assault Pack

Many backpacks can make backcountry survival more manageable, but few are built with surviving in mind more than this impressive kit. Condor has been on the frontlines of hardcore camping and survival equipment of all sorts, and no other product on their line is more recognisable than this epic assault pack.

Condor optimised the survival backpack for three-day trips. With upwards of 50 litres of storage spread across seven compartments, you can stretch out your stay if you pack smart. Once the main compartments are filled up, or for any oversized gear that still needs hauling, take advantage of the nylon straps that wrap around the pack’s exterior to lug some extras.

As long as you find shelter before the showers, this stable bag will bring everything you need to stay out in the woods a while longer.

#6 Best Survival Backpacking Pack – Gregory Zulu 40

Right on the edge of glory sits this 40 litre legend. 40 litres is an incredibly happy medium in the backpack spectrum, bringing more than enough storage for a day or weekend trip without going overboard.

The Zulu series has storage capacities on all sides of the scale. Unless you plan to get out deep into the woods and stay in one place for a long time, anything more significant than this bag will start weighing you down.

Couple that perfect size bag with loads of high-quality build materials and a solid weatherproofing system, et voila; you’ve got a survival bag that can handle serious mileage.

#7 Coolest Survival Bag – Kodiak Sitka Leather Messenger

Hollywood has taken plenty of stabs at survival looks and post-apocalyptic gear hauling. This leather messenger would fit nicely on Jones’ shoulder in the temple of doom or wandering the streets of zombie-infested New York to bring your next survival mission a signature style.

No, this is not a severe survival option. Anyone planning on walking serious mileage or wandering far out of cell service with a home in the bag should probably bring more than this top-grain leather sidebag option. That doesn’t mean this well-built satchel is a slouch. Every inch of this bag is reinforced and built out of some of the most durable brass and natural materials.

As part of a complete arsenal or flung over your shoulder on your next two-wheeled adventure, this bag has a real place in your arsenal without providing high tech storage some other survival bags bring to the table.

Now that you’ve found a great survival partner, it’s time to fill ‘er up. Your bag will only get you as far as the gear inside of it, so let’s look at a few absolutely critical aspects of any prepper’s checklist.

This gear, plus the right survival backpack, will elevate you from surviving to thriving.

For each piece of gear, just a short write up about what it is, why you need it, and why this is the best one you can buy

Black Diamond Twilight Bivy

This bivvy bag may just be the best lightweight shelter on the planet. Whether you plan on packing the farm or keeping the weight down, the Twilight has earned a place on your packing list. Every trip into the woods can wind up an overnighter. At way less than a pound, this bivvy provides excellent protection and should be taken along on every walk into the woods.

Thanks to its four seasons of weather protection, heavy flooring reinforcements, and breathable mesh panel, this bivvy can be employed in a hurry and offers an excellent place for shut-eye no matter where you wind up for the night.

Leatherman P4 Multi-Tool

The closest thing to hauling along your toolshed, this multi-tool can set up camp, help fix ripped tarpaulin, gut a fish, and gather firewood, all while fitting in the palm of your hands. 21 tools are easily accessible thanks to the magnetic technology that lifts this multi-tool above the competition.

Grayl Geopress

Wilderness survival is all fun and games until you run out of water. Luckily, filters like this Geopress means as long as you can get to a water source, you can whet your lips around 24 ounces of purified water in eight seconds.

That speed makes the Geopress the fastest in the industry at cleaning up dirty taps and flowing rivers. The press goes above and beyond by filtering out heavy metals, microplastics, and usually uncovered water pollutants.

Medical Kit

Whether heading out of the house for an hour or never coming back, please find room for a first aid kit. While bringing along any combination of Neosporin and bandaids is better than nothing, this all-encompassing medkit has 82 different pieces to address injuries and nasty surprises while on the road.

The kit comes stacked with an impressive assortment of medical equipment and found space for other survival essentials. Beyond first aid, this medkit provides an emergency blanket, tactical knife, and fire starter tools that will get you through a bad night in the woods.

I wouldn’t want to come across any of these survival backpacks in a dark alley. Built to last and full of scrappy features, every bag on our list will give you a fighting chance. All you have to do is pair up the particular blend of characteristics that best pushes you forward, sharpen up your cartography skills, and get out there.

The survival backpacks we looked at today are only part of the puzzle. When surviving without a roof over your head, the only thing you can expect is the unexpected. Over-prepping yourself for whatever you’re getting into and a foolproof list of emergency plans if shit hits the fan are other essential ingredients in wilderness survival.

Prepping begins with your Nylon knapsack. These survival backpacks all pack the necessary space and intelligent upgrades to set you on a path toward success.

And for transparency’s sake, please know that some of the links in our content are affiliate links. That means that if you book your accommodation, buy your gear, or sort your insurance through our link, we earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you). That said, we only link to the gear we trust and never recommend services we don’t believe are up to scratch. Again, thank you!

For the past couple of decades, I’ve held the belief that deer move more in the rain. Not heavy rain, mind you, but light to moderate precipitation. I can count the number of times I’ve sat in a treestand or ground blind, had little deer movement, and then they came out of the woodworks as the rain started falling from the sky.

I killed my biggest buck ever in the rain, which I self-filmed for Realtree’s Monster Bucks.

I sat through a steady rain shower, and as it began to subside, deer poured out of the bedding area in front of me. First, a couple of nice 2-year-olds. Then a yearling buck. Then the giant velvet 8-pointer. Even more bucks, does, and fawns walked out afterward. They all fed out in the clover in front of me, all while it misted rain. Eventually, I got a shot opportunity and made it count.

That wasn’t the only incident I’ve seen or shot deer during or just after a rain event. It’s happened numerous times.

That said, I think rain is more likely to get deer on their feet on warmer days, especially during the early season. Generally, rain cools you down, which gives deer reprieve from the heat, effectively getting them up on their feet.

I think rain showers that occur mid- to late-afternoon have even more power to get deer up and moving. When conditions align with crepuscular (dawn and dusk) movement, I believe it increases deer activity, even more than crepuscular movements without additional triggers.

But I’m not a biologist, and my experiences aren’t peer-reviewed research studies. So, let’s look at some deer science.

What’s Does Research Show about Deer Movement in the Rain?

Several colleges with teams dedicated to whitetail biology and behavior have attempted to address this question. While general whitetail behavior isn’t the focus of most wildlife agencies and DNRs (they focus on resource management), even some of them have studied the impact of rain on whitetail movement.

said Levi Jaster, a big game program coordinator for the Kansas Department of Wildlife and Parks.

Moriah Boggess, a deer biologist with the Indiana DNR, initially expressed similar input.

Some Research Shows More Deer Movement in Light to Moderate Rainfall

Interestingly, some biologists and experts have discovered data or had experiences that suggest deer do, in fact, move more, if only slightly, during light to moderate rainfall. Both Boggess and Jaster have mixed feelings on the subject.

Boggess says that other researchers have found light rain can increase deer movement, but heavy rain can decrease it. Still, he says there is no consistent effect of rain across all the whitetail’s range. That’s a reasonable conclusion, though, mainly since whitetails inhabit a very diverse range of climates and habitats.

Despite the inconclusive research studies, Boggess’ own experiences suggest deer do move more during light rain.

Even Jaster relays that there might be something to it.

The scientific results on record are still inconclusive. The conclusion on whether or not deer move in the rain is likely somewhere in-between. Fortunately, you can test this theory on your own.

Some Pros and Cons of Hunting in the Rain

Rain can impact other aspects of deer hunting, too. General deer movement isn’t the only factor. Understanding how it limits hunters and how hunters can leverage it is important to know.

For example, most people believe that light rain and moisture increase the effectiveness of a deer’s nose. Boggess says,

Other negatives apply, too. Jaster says,

Don’t forget the positive aspects, though. It also helps to wash away scent, so there might be both positives and negatives.

The most significant advantage to rain might be quiet walking, though.

Boggess notes that rain softens twigs and leaves, which offers perfect stalking conditions. On rainy days, perhaps slowly still hunt and scout your way through deer habitat. Jaster says rain and wind likely make it more challenging to see hunters’ movements, too. So, that’s good.

Overall, it’s still not completely understood whether or not deer move more in the rain.

But I think deer tend to move more during light rainfall, especially during the early season when temperatures are warmer and when the rain event occurs in the early morning or late afternoon. Perhaps only the deer I hunt like their salad with dressing, but I doubt that’s true.

No matter what, the more deer data you can start accumulating, especially from the deer you hunt, the better. You might discover some exciting things about the specific deer you hunt.

Which one is better: MOA or MRAD?

The short answer: it’s your preference. If you use the metric system (meters/centimeters) then go for MRAD. But if you measure in the empirical system (yards/inches) then MOA may be easier.

If you want a more thorough answer along with an explanation of MOA vs MRAD, then keep on reading!

MOA vs MRAD: Why do we care?

Suppose you’re headed out on a hunting trip with your buddies.

You did your research, you read the best rifle scope guide, and you’re ready to go. But then your buddy starts talking in meters and your MOA turrets are adjusting in yards.

His numbers don’t match your turrets, your turrets don’t match your reticle, and now your target has bounded off to another state.

The problem: he was using MRAD while you were using MOA.

MOA and MRAD are basically two different systems of measurement.

When sighting rifle scopes, the reticle and turrets are used together to reach the most accurate shot possible. The turrets change the position of your reticle while your reticle provides an aiming point.

Your turret clicks and the hashes on your reticle can use one of two different systems of scope alignment: MOA or MRAD.

You can have the best long range scope on the market, but if you don’t sight it in using either system, it’s useless.

If you’re looking for help choosing between rifle scopes, here’s the only guide you’ll need to read.

What’s an MOA Scope?

M.O.A. stands for Minutes of Angle; a system based on degrees and minutes. This type of angle measurement is used to calculate the distance to a target and MOA turrets correction for the bullet trajectory.

Basically the math breaks down to this: there are 360 degrees in a circle, and 60 minutes in a degree for a total of 21,600 degrees.

You can find your MOA measurement by multiplying the distance in yards by 1.047, then dividing by 100. You can thank the Ancient Egyptians and Mesopotamians later.

At 200 yards, one MOA equals 2.094 inches. Out to 1,000 yards, 1 MOA equals 10.47 inches, and so on.

For those of us who aren’t Einstein, the easiest way I’ve found is to use a quick-reference conversion chart. That way you don’t miss your prize buck while scribbling away on math problems.

MOA scopes aren’t a perfect system though.

Often calculations are made with 1 MOA at 100 yards (91.4 meters), but you need to count on 100 yards with 1.05 MOA. Up to 100 yards there will be no problem with 1 to 100 comparison, but when shooting over longer distances you’ll be 5% off base and this could mean missing a shot.

This isn’t a problem if you’re only shooting at medium ranges. Read my 4×32 scope guide for more details.

I use an MOA reticle scope on my AR-15 A2 after I removed the front sights for added cool guy points. I’ll show you how to remove the AR-15 A2 sights here.

What’s an MRAD Rifle Scope?

MRAD stands for milliradians (or MIL for short), and was originally developed for artillery in the late 1800s. It’s still the preferred method for military and police force operations to this day, where you’ll commonly here it referred to as a MIL-dot reticle.

Based on a radial line, a unit of angular measurement that is equal to roughly 57.3 degrees, a milliradian is one thousandth of a radian.

This system does not come out to make a perfect circle like the MOA system. Instead, milliradians divide the circumference of a circle into 6.28 equal sections measuring 57.3 degrees each in an MRAD scope.

Thus, every circle has a circle circumference that is 6.28 radians long. Then each radian is going to be divided into 1,000 parts more, which is called Milliradians.

When calculating MRAD in a MIL-based scope, you will be calling it MIL, which is 3.6 inches at 100 yards (91.4m using the metric system) equal to 1 MIL.

I tried an MRAD scope on my M1A that happens to have the best M1A scope mount ever.

MOA vs MRAD: Which is better?

The short answer: neither. The argument is as old as time, but it’s really just the shooter’s preference of rifle scope.

The fight between MOA vs MRAD boils down to a difference in how we format degrees of angular measure. It’s fancy math terminology that basically asks if you use yards or meters.

Technically, the 1/4 MOA clicks are slightly more accurate than the 1/10 MIL, but the MIL values are somewhat easier to communicate.

Reference cards with MIL are easier to read because they are indicated by 2 numbers only, while the cards with MOA are indicated with four numbers. We could go back and forth all day, but you get the idea.

If you like other comparisons, check out my Nightforce SHV vs. Vortex PST guide.

Which do you need?

Choosing between the MOA or MRAD system will take some self reflection, so buckle up.

If you normally think in meters or centimeters, then it is easier to calculate distance with a MOA. If you normally think in yards or inches, then MRAD should be your go-to.

And if you’re not going to calculate distances, it doesn’t matter between the MRAD vs MOA. Do your thing, both types are equally effective for medium- and long-range shooting.

Another thing to take into account is that you also have to consider your hunting partners, teammates, friends, and so on. You’ll want to have a common language so you can communicate together without having to do conversions between the two systems.

Or you could be an absolute rebel and have a scope for each system, swapping it out in the field with the best quick detach scope mounts. Live your life to the fullest.

Most importantly, choose the same system for your turrets and scope reticles. I have a guide on first focal planes vs. second focal planes to help you choose the right reticle as well.

Regardless of all the math, the decision between MOA and MRAD isn’t that important. Clicks with an MOA turret are slightly more precise than clicks with a MIL turret, but at the end of the day it’s a style choice between rifle scopes.

FAQ