The best bass poppers make a lot of noise on the water, and that is what makes them so effective. They’re one of the oldest lures, but over time, testing has lended them quite a nice hand. Now we have poppers of all different shapes and sizes that work better than ever before.

Through my personal experience and other anglers’ knowledge and expertise, I’ve put together this list of the best poppers for bass fishing. These topwater lures will help you clean house on any freshwater pond or lake, so keep reading.

Our Picks For The Best Bass Poppers

Rebel Lures Pop-R Topwater Popper

BEST BASS POPPER OVERALL

• Type: Teeny Popper
• Size: ⅛ ounce
• Color: Ol’ Bass

FEATURED SPECS

• Design of the mouth spits water which creates a loud noise and vibration to attract ornery bass

EXTRA FEATURES

• Comes with two treble hooks and a feather-like tail which improves the action and natural appearance

BUYING ADVICE

• You can use both a straight retrieval or erratic jerking to imitate an injured baitfish

Pros

• Strong company reputation
• Great topwater action
• Versatility

Cons

• Many anglers recommend swapping the hooks

It’s a no-brainer that the Rebel Pop-R is the best topwater popper for bass fishing. If you’ve ever watched a bass fishing tournament or attended one, I can guarantee you’ve seen this lure used many times. It’s won hundreds of thousands of dollars in tournament money for many professional anglers.

When you cast it out, and it hits the water, you’ll hear the pop. Then, as you’re retrieving it, the lure spits water out using the concave mouth, which creates a lot of disturbance to attract the bass.

Arbogast Hula Popper

RUNNER-UP BASS POPPER

Specs

• Type: Hula Popper
• Size: 1 ¼ – 2 ¼
• Color: Yellow Belly

FEATURED SPECS

• Features an extra-strong and sharp treble hook to make it easier to set the hook

EXTRA FEATURES

• The hula popper creates a loud popping sound when it hits the water, and it bubbles as you retrieve

BUYING ADVICE

• Locate some grass beds and cast this right in there because it’s meant to imitate a jumping frog

Pros

• Great loud presentation
• Large lure catches big bass
• Works well at night too

Cons

• The lure is a bit large for some

Here we have another legendary lure with a long-standing history of creating successful anglers out of newbies. The skirt on this one pulsates, so it creates a clicking noise as you retrieve it. You can pair that with the concave mouth that creates a bubble trail.

Arbogast Jitterbug

BEST JITTERBBUG

Specs

• Type: Jitterbug
• Size: 2 ½ inches and ⅜ ounce
• Color: 16 color variations

FEATURED SPECS

• The double cupped lip creates an extremely loud presentation when it hits the water

EXTRA FEATURES

• This lure is small, so it’s great for casting large distances

BUYING ADVICE

• Make sure to choose your color to mimic your surroundings. They offer a wide assortment of colors.

Pros

• Loud presentation
• Great casting distance
• Exceptional night time lure

Cons

• Too many buying options

It’s not often that I would say having too many lure options is a bad thing, but it is when they’re confusing. I find this lure to have too many size variations where some are jointed, and some aren’t, it makes it confusing.

If I were you, I’d go with a non-jointed small lure option and purchase a couple of them in different colors, so you have one for each situation. I highly recommend getting a black one because this lure creates such a loud presentation; you don’t need the bass to see it for night fishing.

Heddon Chug’N Spook Popper

BEST SPOOK

Specs

• Type: Popping Spook
• Size: ½ ounce
• Color: Black Shiner

FEATURED SPECS

• Thin profile allows this lure to move through the water quickly while chugging and spitting

EXTRA FEATURES

• Also comes with a loud rattle inside to add to the already loud presentation

BUYING ADVICE

• These come in both fresh and saltwater options. That makes this one of the best poppers for striped bass as well.

Pros

• Simple and effective
• Comes with a wide range of colors and sizes
• Torpedo movement through the water

Cons

• Made in China

Don’t get confused by this lure. We’re not talking about the standard Heddon spook here; the company also makes a popper with a similar design. The only difference between this and the original spook is the concave mouth.

While it does a great job of creating noise from its mouth, the ticker on this lure is the internal rattle paired with the mouth.

Rapala X-Rap Pop 07

BEST SPITTER

Specs

• Type: Spitter
• Size: 2 ¾ inches
• Color: Silver/Red

FEATURED SPECS

• Incredibly lifelike appearance meant to mimic an injured shad or minnow

EXTRA FEATURES

• Deep cupped mouth with extended top lip spits water as you retrieve it

BUYING ADVICE

• These work great near docks or low hanging trees because they have a long casting system that provides pinpoint accuracy on your cast.

Pros

• Rapala reputation is always good
• Tail-down design improves the presentation
• Great spitting action
• Lifelike appearance

Cons

• Fragile hooks

If you’ve read any of my other reviews, you know I like to stick with a great company. Rapala bass lures are some of the best on the market, and the design of this one really proves that to us.

Whether you’re looking at the arched back to create a better presentation or the precisely cupped mouth which spits water and makes noise, this lure is designed perfectly for its intended purpose.

What Are Poppers?

Poppers are a topwater lure that make a loud popping and spitting sound when they hit the water and retreat. They come in a few different designs and styles, but the selling point is the design and shape of their mouth.

These are not weedless lures because they often come with two treble hooks. You’ll want to fish these near the weeds, but not necessarily in them. Having a bit of clear water allows the design to work it’s magic.

The topwater nature of these make them a great lure for smallmouth bass but certain options like the spook also dive a little so they work well for largemouth bass too.

Types of Bass Poppers

You’ve got a large assortment of bass fishing lures that claim to be poppers, but overall, we’re sticking to two main types. You have chuggers and spitters. They’re both very similar, but the presentation they create in the water is what makes them a little different.

Chuggers

The chugger is a lot like the Arbogast Hula Popper we reviewed above. These create a loud pop sound when they hit the water, and then they bubble when you retrieve them. As you pull them in, they almost shroud themselves in bubbles, and when they pop, that’s when you get the loud noise you’re looking for.

Spitters

The main difference between these two is in the shape of their mouth. When you look at a spitter closely, you’ll notice that the top lip of the concave mouth sticks out a little further than the bottom lip. As a result, these lures don’t create that bubble shroud and trail; instead, they spit the water back out somewhat like a water wheel.

It makes a softer sound, but I’ve found that the noise is more consistent, which is what drives bass crazy. Our top pick above is a perfect example of a high-quality spitter.

Features to Look For in the Best Poppers

Popper bass fishing is pretty basic, and most of the lures operate in the same fashion. When you’re shopping around, make sure to look for the following features to determine you have the right lure in your hand.

Concave Mouth – The main feature that makes this lure tick is the design of its mouth. The mouth either spits or chugs, and both of these create a loud noise when they hit the water and when you retrieve them. One sure-fire way of knowing you have a popper is by looking at the design of the mouth.

Treble Hooks – Topwater poppers for bass fishing always come with at least one treble hook. This is because you need to be able to set the hook when a bass comes at you from a variety of different directions. Many of the stock hooks that come with lures are low-quality, so be sure to pay attention to that.

Color Variations – Color is an important buying factor because it will impact your success. I always suggest mimicking the color of your lure to match the surroundings where you’re fishing. Most popular companies like Rapala or Rebel offer an assortment of colors, so you don’t have to worry about that.

How to Fish Poppers for Bass

Interestingly enough, there aren’t too many bass fishing tips I can give you on fishing poppers. They’re one of the simplest lures to fish, which makes them great for beginner bass fishing. You have two options for retrieving.

You can play it safe and follow a steady retrieval. You’ll do this by casting out and retrieving by cranking the reel at a normal pace. The popper will spit and chug as you do this at a natural pace.

If you’re looking to make things a little more interesting, you can cast out, leave the rod tip down and use the tip to jerk the lure in an erratic motion. For this, I suggest getting a lure with a little red on it. Some of the options recommended above have red bellies.

For this, to work best, you’ll keep the line tight, lift the rod tip up quickly, reel in the slack, and repeat this process. The bass will think your lure is injured, and they’ll be more likely to strike it.

Best Time to Use Poppers for Bass

While there isn’t a “wrong” time to fish poppers, any self-respecting bass angler would tell you that night time, overcast, or dusk is the best time to use these. When it’s dark, bass can’t see the lure as well, so they rely on what they hear.

For this situation, having a loud lure that draws a lot of attention is the key to success. Again, be sure to keep everything else in mind as well. Choose a color that relates to the time of day. If it’s pitch black out with very little moonlight, go with a completely black lure.

If you’ve got some moonlight, choose something that might reflect some of that light. Go with a silver shad color or something like that.

Also, keep in mind how your presentation needs to change based on the time of day and year. When it’s a cooler, overcast day – you need to slow it down. When it’s hot, and the sun is still beaming down at 9 pm, you can afford to pick up the pace a little.

Final Thoughts

The best bass poppers aren’t hard to find because so many of the most popular lure brands make a ton of them. I suggest sticking with the Pop-R, Heddon, and Rapala when it comes to these. Even if you have to pay an extra buck or two, you know you’re getting the highest quality lures.

The best thing about poppers is that they’re easy to fish. If you have a kid or a friend who is looking to get into fishing, get them hooked by rigging a topwater popper and showing them how easy it is to catch bass with the right lure and the proper strategy.

We love talking to our community here at Anglers.com, so be sure to drop us a comment with your favorite popper story and tell us more about how you like to fish these lures.

Good luck out there!

UPDATED 03 NOVEMBER 2024

by Robert Ceran

Fishing for trout in streams and rivers is very different from trout fishing in lakes and ponds.

First of all, the trout don’t move around very much, so you need to keep moving yourself, and secondly, all of your fishing tactics need to be effective for fishing in water that’s constantly moving.

In order to catch trout successfully in rivers and streams, it’s important to use the right tactics to find trout positioned in feeding lanes close to the main current, and present your bait to them at exactly the right depth.

In this article we’ll discuss the top 3 trout rigs for rivers and streams, and will go over what each of them is best suited for.

How do you rig for trout in a stream or river?

The three most important trout rigs for fishing in rivers and streams are:

• Fixed bobber rig
• Drift rig for trout
• Spinner rig

These three trout rigs cover the majority of all trout fishing applications in rivers and streams, and if you know how to use them effectively, you’ll catch a lot of fish.

That being said, each of them comes in several different shapes and sizes, so there is plenty of room to adapt them to your specific fishing conditions.

Both the fixed bobber rig and the drift rig are great tools for drifting a baited hook with the current, and are ideal for presenting it at the right depth for trout in feeding lanes of rivers and streams.

Each of them comes with its own strengths and weaknesses, and we’ll go into those in more detail below.

The spinner rig is a great option for fishing trout lures in any kind of moving water, from tiny streams to wide rivers, and can be adjusted for each of these scenarios.

Now let’s dive into the details, and discuss each of these rigs more fully.

Fixed bobber rig

This is one of the simplest trout rigs, but works very well for streams and rivers, as it allows you to drift your bait with the current into the most promising spots where trout are likely to be positioned while they wait for the current to bring them food.

Since streams are rarely deeper than 6 or 7 feet, you can cover all depths with a fixed bobber rig, and don’t need to use a slip bobber.

One advantage of using a fixed bobber rig is that you can easily adjust the depth at which you’re fishing by sliding your bobber up or down, and thus fish a range of different depths in every spot, before moving on to the next.

Tying a fixed bobber rig is very easy. You start by threading your bobber onto the line, and then tying the line to swivel or snap swivel.

Next tie a 3 to 4 foot fluorocarbon leader to the swivel, and then tie a size 8 to 14 bait hook to the other end of the leader. And finally, add one or more split shots to the rig to weigh down your baited hook in the water.

The best baits to use with this rig are worms, salmon eggs, or plastic beads (which look like salmon eggs).

You can also use plastic worms, which come in a wide variety of colors. Powerbait doesn’t work as effectively for wild trout in streams as it does for stocked trout in lakes.

Drift rig for trout

This is the most important rig for drift fishing for trout in strong currents, and in deep runs and holes.

The advantage of this bottom fishing rig is that it presents your bait close to the bottom, where trout are usually positioned while they wait for the current to carry food to them.

The great thing about the trout drift rig is that you can use a weaker dropper line to attach the split shot weights, and if the weights should get snagged on the bottom, you can break off the dropper line without losing the rest of your setup.

Another advantage is that you can easily adjust the amount of weight by adding or subtracting split shot weights, or switching out a pencil weight at the end of the dropper line.

This is very important, as you’re going to encounter currents of different strengths, and will need different amounts of weight to get your rig down to the bottom fast enough.

In order to tie the drift rig for trout, start by tying your main line to one eye of a three way swivel.

Next, tie a 3 to 4 foot long fluorocarbon leader to another eye of the swivel, and then tie your bait hook to the other end of that leader.

Finally, tie a 2 to 3 inch long dropper line to the third eye of the 3 way swivel, and either attach several split shot weights, or tie a pencil weight to the end of the dropper line.

The best baits to use for trout when drift fishing with this rig are worms and salmon eggs, or plastic beads or plastic worms of various shapes and color.

Incidentally, this setup also works very well for catching steelhead from the bank, and you may be able to target both species at the same time in some rivers.

Spinner rig

This is a classical trout fishing rig that works well in both running and still waters.

When using it in small streams, try to downsize your lures, since the average size of trout is likely to be smaller than in lakes and ponds.

If you’re fishing in bigger rivers, on the other hand, you can definitely upsize your lure size, and will likely be catching bigger fish as well.

While you can potentially tie your main line directly to your lure, it’s better not to do this.

For one thing, you should use a swivel to avoid the lure twisting up your main line, and secondly, if you’re using braided main line, using a fluorocarbon leader will help to avoid spooking fish.

The best way to tie a spinner rig is to start by tying your main line to a size 6 swivel, and then tying 2 to 3 foot of fluorocarbon leader to the other eye of the swivel.

Then tie a bait hook to the leader, and attach one or more split shot weights above the swivel.

The split shot weights are necessary if you’re spinner fishing for trout in a strong current, and need to get your trout spinner or lure down to the right depth as fast as possible.

What is the best rig for trout fishing in streams?

The best rig for trout fishing in streams is the fixed bobber rig. It’s the perfect setup for drifting a baited hook or soft plastic worm along trout feeding lanes in streams.

The correct way to fish a bobber rig is to lift your main line up above the water, which results in the whole setup floating down the stream at a natural speed with the current, and this is by far the best tactic to catch trout in streams.

That being said, you can definitely also use the other two rigs to your advantage when fishing in trout streams.

The drift rig is a great option if you’re fishing in strong currents, and the spinner rig is ideal if you want to cover a lot of water quickly.

What is the best rig for trout fishing in rivers?

The best rig for trout fishing in rivers is the drift rig, since it’s ideal for presenting your bait close to the bottom even in strong currents.

By adjusting the amount of weight on the rig you can easily switch from one strength of current to another.

And since this fishing rig is also great for catching steelhead in rivers, it’s definitely worth learning how to use it effectively.

Best rod and reel setup for trout fishing in streams and rivers

Now let’s talk about the best trout rod and reel setup to use when fishing with these rigs.

All three rigs are best fished with a 7 to 8 foot long light or ultralight spinning rod.

However, when fishing on small streams, you may want to choose a shorter rod around 6 foot long, since that’s easier to use under trees and bushes.

Also, if you’re fishing in big rivers where trout grow larger (or where you could hook into steelhead as well), you probably want to increase the strength of your rod to medium power.

The ideal reel to use with this setup is a 2000 to 3000 size spinning reel spooled with 10 to 20 lb test braided line.

Braid is the best choice of trout fishing line in rivers because it has almost no stretch, which allows you to feel trout bites with more sensitivity compared to mono or fluoro.

While braid is the best choice for your main line, the leader should definitely be fluorocarbon, since that has lower visibility underwater, and presents your bait with more stealth.

Among the myriad campfire discussions regarding the choice—and performance—of hunting cartridges, there are two words which have become a source of controversy over the last twenty years: “Six Five.” There was a time in the not-too-distant past, where very few hunters or shooters paid any attention to the 6.5mm cartridges. Despite the attempts by Winchester and Remington—with the .264 Winchester Magnum and 6.5 Remington Magnum, respectively—the bore diameter never really caught on here.

My first experience with the 6.5s was when a friend asked me to mount and zero a scope on his rifle—a 6.5×55 Swedish. He had sent along a couple of boxes of older Norma ammunition with 156-grain round nose softpoint ammo, and I was immediately intrigued by those long, lean bullets and lack of recoil. Looking into the ballistics, I couldn’t understand why the caliber wasn’t more popular. The .260 Remington was just a few years old at the time, and hadn’t really made huge waves yet, and the handful of .264 Winchester Magnums that were floating around were a rarity at best.

Fast forward fifteen years, and the 6.5 Creedmoor would be gaining a good head of steam, despite a relatively slow start. Garnering a following among the target crowd first, and ultimately among hunters, the Creedmoor seemed to bring the 6.5mm diameter to the masses, while the .260 Remington and 6.5-284 Norma just couldn’t achieve that level of popularity. Why would the Creedmoor gain acceptance, when we had such a similar level of performance in a cartridge released at the end of the 19th century? Let’s pit them against one another to find out.

The 6.5×55 Swedish is a rimless cartridge with a case head diameter slightly larger than the 7mm and 8mm Mausers (0.479-inch vs. 0.473-inch), with a 25-degree, 17½-minute shoulder, and a case length of 55mm (2.165 inches). With a cartridge overall length of 3.150 inches (or 80.0mm), the 6.5×55 can be crammed into a short-action receiver, but is best served by a long-action. Introduced as a military cartridge simultaneously by Norway and Sweden in the 1890s after a series of military trials, the 6.5x55mm cartridge remains a very popular cartridge among the Scandinavian countries, being used for game species as large as European moose. You may find several names for this cartridge, including 6.5x55SE (the European CIP designation), 6.5×55 SKAN (in Scandinavia) and 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser; the SAAMI-approved name for the cartridge is 6.5×55 Swedish. Depending on the brand of ammunition, the 6.5x55mm will drive a 140-grain bullet to a muzzle velocity ranging from 2,500 fps to as high as 2,735 fps. Most of the major manufacturers have a load or two for the Swede, though some have become seasonal or are made in limited runs. Lapua offers a 155-grain load at 2,559 fps and Federal loads their 156-grain Fusion at 2500 fps, for those who appreciate the advantage of heavier projectiles. There are a good number of rifles available in 6.5×55, including the Tikka T3 and Sako 85, and over the years the Remington 700, Winchester 70 and Ruger No. 1 have all been chambered for the Swede.

The 6.5 Creedmoor was developed by Hornady, and is the .30 T/C cartridge necked down to hold 6.5mm projectiles. Also a rimless cartridge, the Creedmoor uses a 30-degree shoulder for headspacing and a 1.920-inch case to allow longer bullets to be used in a standard short-action magazine. Developed as a long-range target cartridge, the high sectional density and ballistic coefficient of the 6.5mm bullets were certainly put to use with good effect, and though the Creedmoor didn’t exactly explode onto the scene, it became a buzzword by 2013 and 2014. Driving a 140-grain bullet to just over 2700 fps, the Creedmoor has all but knocked the .308 Winchester out of the spotlight among long range target shooters, and has developed a reputation as a sound hunting cartridge for game animals all the way up to elk and moose, though I feel there are better tools for the largest ungulates. The Creedmoor has been hailed by some as the “be-all-and-end-all” cartridge, capable of killing any game animal on earth, and well, that’s just not the truth. It is, undeniably, a great deer and antelope cartridge. It is perfectly suited for a short-action bolt rifle, as well as the AR-10 platform.

Almost all rifle manufacturers offer a gun chambered for 6.5 Creedmoor, even down to the lever-actions like the Henry Long Ranger. If you were looking for a rifle to do double duty as a hunting gun and a long range target rifle, the 6.5 Creedmoor is a perfectly sensible choice. Recoil is minimal, and that is also another of the Creedmoor’s appeal.

How do the two compare? Well, in deference to the older firearms, I feel the 6.5×55 Swedish suffers from the same fate as the 7×57 and 8×57 Mauser, in that much of the factory ammunition isn’t loaded to its full potential. When it is loaded properly—as in the Hornady Superformance line—it is fully the equal of the much more modern 6.5 Creedmoor. I feel that the 155- and 156-grain bullets, like the Lapua Mega and Norma Oryx, actually extend the versatility of the 6.5×55 Swedish, and can give it a slight advantage over the Creedmoor. Where the Creedmoor does have an advantage is in the sheer availability of the ammunition. There is a wide selection of hunting bullets, ranging from 120 to 143 grains, and of various construction methods. From the Hornady ELD-X to Federal’s Fusion and Terminal Ascent, to Nosler’s AccuBond and Barnes’ LRX, the hunter has plenty to choose from. Sadly, the same cannot be said for the 6.5×55 Swedish; the bullets are there, but the production numbers are not.

So with very similar velocities—the Creedmoor has a slight advantage—and comparable bullet weights, though the Swedish has some heavier offerings, who gets the nod? Were it not for the sheer availability of the Creedmoor rifles and ammunition, I would call this a draw; the performance is just too similar to say one is the more advantageous design. I actually prefer the 6.5×55 Swedish, primarily from a reloader’s point of view, as there is a bit more room in the case. But I’m pretty sure there isn’t a game animal which could ever tell the difference between the two cartridges. In this one, the Creedmoor—probably due to some excellent marketing on the part of Hornady—wins out; the wide selection of available factory ammo and premium hunting projectiles gives it the edge.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

Here in Ohio, we still haven’t had a frost so I’m still bringing in the harvest. This week, I’m ready to collect juniper berries.

Our juniper shrub has played an important part in our farm since the very beginning. It was much smaller when we moved in, but nonetheless, was the best shelter on the property for our very first bee hives. The mockingbird, for which we named our farm, nested in the juniper just above the hives that first year and we took it as a good sign.

Where to Find Juniper Berries

Junipers grow in most parts of North America. They aren’t too picky about the soils in which they grow, with the exception of their dislike for an extremely wet one. Because they can tolerate extremely dry conditions, you may have met a juniper even if you live in the city. They are often planted near sidewalks and streets. They don’t need much in the way of maintenance, so no need for a grounds crew to keep them trimmed. Even the berries, which are small and abundant, lure the birds to come and fetch them instead of gracelessly cluttering the yard.

Using Juniper Berries

Juniper berries have a long tradition of use in food, beverages, and medicine. I wrote some weeks ago about the fact that they are the main flavor in gin. In Norway, where my family originates, it is common to home brew with juniper berry tea. You’ll find recipes that include juniper berries with meat, especially fish. Just a few are used, and they are usually crushed to release their flavor. It is said that they make a domestic meat taste like their wild counterparts.

In medicine, juniper berries are recognized for both their high content of volatile oils and their beneficial resins. It its common to see them applied to issues in the respiratory tract and urinary tract. Therefore they can be useful for such issues as cold, congestion, cough, urinary tract infections, arthritis, and gout. They are fairly intense in their action, so only small amounts are used.

NOTE: Juniper berries aren’t a tonic by any means, so the use of them over long periods of time isn’t advisable. The use of the berries for anyone with only one kidney, or someone with kidney disease, is not advised.

Harvesting Juniper Berries

Our juniper bush towers over us these days. It has grown from a modest six feet to easily 11 feet over the past 15 years. I won’t bother picking any of the berries above my head. In that way, I can leave some of the berries for the birds. Juniper leaves are sharp, so it’s best to use gloves when picking juniper berries.

The time-honored way to pick is much like mulberry picking. Place a sheet underneath the shrub, grasp a branch with berries, and gently shake. The berries will fall off quite easily. You are looking for only the blue, ripe berries. Anything green will rot before it dries.

Drying Juniper Berries

After gathering the berries, it is time to dry them. It has turned rather chilly and humid here, so I’ll most likely use the dehydrator. It takes quite a while to fully dry a juniper berry because it is highly resinous. You can expect to allow them to air dry for up to three weeks or at least two days in the dehydrator.

Using Dried Juniper Berries

This winter, I’m looking forward to experimenting with some juniper rubs for outdoor barbecue. If I decide to use the berries for medicine, they can be tinctured, powdered, or made into tea.

Want juniper berries, but don’t have time for a DIY?

You can find organic dried juniper berries here for a reasonable price.

Have you noticed a juniper shrub in your area, covered in blue berries? Have I inspired you to take a closer look?

*******

Flies and Roadrunner jigs were my most productive lures during my early years of crappie fishing. However, my selection of crappie lures has increased throughout the years as lure manufacturers continued to offer a variety of soft plastic baits for panfish. Some of the hottest soft plastic styles of crappie lures available today are double-tail grubs, minnow or shad imitators, twitch baits, and grubs.

Here’s a look at five Karl’s Amazing Baits for crappie and how you can use these lures to catch big slabs.

Martian

This is my favorite style of soft plastic baits for catching crappie in the winter when the fish are sluggish. Attached to a 1/16-ounce jighead, this lure can be fished ultra-slow because it doesn’t require much movement to make the thin twin tails quiver. I like to fish it vertically over deep brush piles and just let the movement of my boat create enough action on the lure to trigger bites from inactive crappie. The lure’s ribbed body is also ideal for holding scent gel in its ribs.

Mini Minnow

This is the soft plastic style I rely on for most of my crappie fishing tactics. The lure’s fluke-like design perfectly imitates the body of a minnow or young shad and its thin tail creates a subtle darting action similar to a fleeing baitfish. I can fish this lure vertically or horizontally for crappie suspended over brush piles and I frequently fish it 1 to 2 feet under a bobber to catch spawning crappie in the shallows. The lure’s subtle action and small profile make it ideal for tricking wary crappie in clear water.

Lil Twitchy

This miniature jerkbait features a classic minnow profile big crappie find irresistible. The lure’s single slender tail delivers a tantalizing quiver and shake with a twitch of the rod. I like to throw this lure on windy days when crappie are chasing shad along wind-blown rocky banks. It is also a good choice for fishing under a bobber with a twitch-and-pause retrieve.

Dub Grub

I rely on this grub for targeting aggressive crappie in dirty water. A heavier jighead such as a 1/8-ounce model will cause the lure to fall faster and generate the optimum action from its twin tails. I either cast this lure to brush piles and swim it over the cover or I pitch it into the brush and let it fall straight down to trigger strikes from crappie holding tight to the cover.

Paddle Grub

The kicking action of this 2-inch swimbait makes it the perfect choice for catching big crappie at various depths. When crappie are suspended high in the water column, I combine the swimbait with a 1/16-ounce darter jighead so the lure will fall slower and swim longer in the fish’s strike zone. I switch to a 1/8-ounce darter jighead for swimming the lure deeper in the water column. The paddletail provides plenty of kick so you can retrieve this lure at a slow, steady pace to trigger strikes from slab crappie.

Feature image credit: David Yang

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The provided prices can assist you in accurately determining the current value of your antlers.

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What Are Antler Sheds?

Learn More: What Are Antler Sheds?

Antler sheds, often simply referred to as “sheds,” are the discarded antlers of certain animals, primarily those in the deer family, such as deer, moose, elk, caribou, and reindeer. Antlers are the impressive bony structures that grow on the heads of these animals, primarily males. What makes antler sheds intriguing is that they are the natural result of an annual cycle of growth, use, and renewal.

Here’s a breakdown of what antler sheds are and how they come to be:

1. Antler Growth: Antlers start growing in the spring and continue to develop throughout the summer. They are initially covered in a soft layer of skin and fur known as “velvet.” During this growth phase, antlers are rich in blood vessels and sensitive nerve endings, allowing for rapid expansion.

2. Use in Breeding Season: Antlers serve several purposes, including attracting mates and competing with other males during the rut, or breeding season. Male animals use their antlers in combat for dominance and the right to mate with females.

3. Shedding: After the rut, usually in late winter or early spring, antlers begin to weaken at their base. This weakening is a result of hormonal changes and decreasing daylight hours. Eventually, the connection between the antlers and the animal’s skull weakens to the point where the antlers drop off. This natural process is called “shedding.”

Learn More: Does Antler Shedding Hurt?

4. Regrowth: Once the antlers are shed, the animal enters a phase of antler regrowth. New antlers begin to grow, and the cycle repeats itself in preparation for the next breeding season.

5. Antler Sheds: The antler sheds, which are the discarded antlers, can be found in various natural settings, such as forests, fields, and even in backyards. Shed hunters often search for these antler sheds, as they are highly sought after for their aesthetic value and use in various crafts.

What Are Antler Sheds Used For?

Antler sheds serve several important purposes in the natural world. First and foremost, they are a valuable source of minerals for many animals. Small mammals, such as rodents, will often gnaw on antlers to obtain essential nutrients like calcium and phosphorus. Additionally, herbivores like elk and deer themselves may consume antlers during periods of nutrient scarcity, helping them replenish vital minerals after the demanding rutting season.

In the realm of human activities, antler sheds are sought after for various purposes. Many people collect them for their unique beauty and use them in crafts, decor, and jewelry-making. Due to their durability and intricate designs, antler sheds are also used to create knife handles, buttons, and furniture components.

Below are just a few uses of antler sheds:

1. Crafts and Decor: Antler sheds are prized for their unique appearance and are often used in crafting. They can be carved, polished, and shaped into various artistic and decorative items. These include chandeliers, lampshades, candleholders, and wall art. Their natural beauty adds a rustic and elegant touch to interior design.
2. Jewelry: Antler sheds are utilized to create exquisite jewelry pieces. Jewelers carve and shape antlers into pendants, earrings, rings, and bracelets. The organic and earthy aesthetic of antler jewelry appeals to those who appreciate nature-inspired accessories.
3. Knife Handles: Due to their durability and comfortable grip, antler sheds are commonly employed in the production of knife handles. Hunters and outdoor enthusiasts often prefer knives with antler handles for their aesthetic appeal and practicality.
4. Furniture: Antler sheds find their way into furniture design, particularly in rustic and lodge-style pieces. They are used as chair and table legs, drawer pulls, and cabinet handles. Their incorporation adds a touch of the outdoors to interior furnishings.
5. Dog Chews: Antler sheds are also used to create natural and durable dog chews. They are a safer alternative to synthetic toys and can provide hours of entertainment for dogs while helping to maintain their dental health.
6. Cultural and Ritual Objects: In some cultures, antlers have symbolic significance and are used in traditional ceremonies and rituals. They may be incorporated into religious artifacts or cultural regalia, carrying deep cultural meaning.
7. Educational and Scientific Purposes: Antler sheds are valuable for educational and scientific purposes. They can be used in classrooms and wildlife education programs to teach about animal anatomy and behavior. Researchers and biologists may study antler sheds to learn more about the health and habits of wildlife populations.
8. Sculptures and Art: Artists often use antler sheds as a medium for creating sculptures and artwork. The natural curves and textures of antlers can inspire intricate and captivating art pieces.
9. Collectibles: Antler sheds are highly collectible items for those interested in nature and wildlife. Collectors seek sheds with unique characteristics, such as size, shape, or coloration, adding to their personal collections.

Who Buys Antlers Sheds?

Antlers are bought by a variety of individuals and businesses involved in different industries. In the United States and Canada, the primary buyers of antlers are often referred to as “antler buyers.” These individuals specialize in purchasing antler sheds from various sources, including collectors, hunters, and farmers. Antler buyers pay for antlers based on their weight, and they deal with antlers from elk, deer, and moose. Antler buyers journey across the United States and Canada to purchase various types of antlers from sellers.

The uses of antlers by antler buyers typically fall into several categories:

1. Collectors and Enthusiasts: Some people buy antlers as collectibles or for personal enjoyment. They may appreciate the natural beauty of antlers or use them for decorative purposes in their homes or cabins.
2. Craftspeople and Artists: Many artisans and craftsmen buy antlers to create unique and handcrafted items such as chandeliers, knife handles, jewelry, and sculptures. Antlers are highly prized for their aesthetic appeal and versatility in artistic endeavors.
3. Furniture Manufacturers: Antlers are a sought-after material in the furniture industry, especially for crafting rustic or Western-style furniture. They are often used for chair legs, table bases, and other decorative elements.
4. Decor and Home Improvement Businesses: Businesses specializing in home décor and interior design may purchase antlers to incorporate into their products or design projects. Antlers can add a distinctive and natural touch to home interiors.
5. Chinese Medicine and Cosmetic Companies: Antlers are an essential ingredient in traditional Chinese medicine and cosmetics. Chinese medicine practitioners and cosmetic manufacturers often buy antlers for their purported health and beauty benefits.
6. Export to Asia: A significant portion of antlers purchased by antler buyers is exported to countries like Korea and China. These markets have a high demand for antlers, primarily for medicinal and cosmetic purposes.
7. Wholesale and Retail Markets: Some antler buyers act as intermediaries, purchasing antlers from collectors and hunters and then selling them to various businesses in the wholesale or retail market, meeting the diverse needs of their customers.

If you’re considering selling your antlers, take a moment to check our carefully curated list of verified antler buyers. Additionally, don’t forget to consult our ‘Current Antler Price Chart’ for up-to-date pricing information on elk, whitetail, and mule deer antler sheds.

Learn More:

• Dispelling Myths & Misconceptions About Antler Shedding
• What’s The Difference Between Antlers & Horns?

If you have any suggestions or questions, feel free to contact us here.

Want to meet the author? Check out AntlerBuyers.Com about us page here.

This review started when I said mean things about Turkish shotguns online. My comments were generally targeting the gas-operated bullpup magazine-fed guns, but I have had a generally negative view of most Turkish shotguns. That opinion is based on a parade of Turk shotguns that have come through the shop where I work. As a category, they have more issues than shotguns of other origins. But they also have price points that tend to be much lower. I was soon contacted by a VP at Four Peaks Imports who threw down the gauntlet. He offered to send out a shotgun from their lineup because he thought shooting one would change my mind. I respect his approach of choosing a public hater as a potential reviewer, and letting the product speak for itself. I selected the Aksa S4, and in short order, it showed up at my FFL.

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Attack of the Clones?

The Benelli M4 is a legend. There can be no debate on that point. It has been used by militaries, police forces, competition shooters, and people who just like nice shotguns. It has graced the silver screen and been used in Triple-A video games.

Whenever a gun reaches icon status, there will be clones. Some clones are more of an homage to a design, others are quite literal “clones” of the original. The Aksa S4 is the latter. Parts are generally interchangeable, including common upgrades like magazine tubes or stocks. It is not a Benelli but is impressively similar to the original.

My negative view of Turkish shotguns generally stemmed from the obscene gas-operated bullpup magazine-fed guns that clutter the shelves of too many retailers, but the actual range of Turk scatterguns is very broad. There are pump guns with prices so low they look like misprints, and there are CZ-branded guns competing in the higher tiers. As a whole, this category of shotgun tends to cost less than comparable models made in the USA or places like Italy and Japan.

The S4 In Action

Gun reviews are intrinsically limited by (usually) having a sample size of one, and by not having unlimited time or ammunition. Multi-year, 10,000-round reviews across 20 sample guns would be an incredible source of data, but it is simply not feasible unless you are running some type of government procurement program. I was footing the bill for ammo and I most certainly do not have a Department of Defense budget. With those caveats in mind, it was time to start shooting.

I did not lubricate anything, clean the gun during the review, or put thread locker on any screws before the initial break-in. Some reviews of similar models insist that these steps are necessary before shooting a Turkinelli. Instead, I stuffed shells in the magazine tube and started shooting. Gas-operated shotguns usually need some rounds through them before they operate reliably. That was true for the Aksa S4. In the first 50 rounds or so, there were a few failures to feed and failures to extract. After the first few boxes of shells, it smoothed out and operated normally.

I wanted to put a wide range of shells through the Aksa S4 because semi-auto shotguns can be picky with ammunition. I fired 550 rounds of birdshot, primarily 1 1/8oz and 1oz Winchester and Federal as found in your local Walmart. Outside of the initial break-in and one hang-up in the burndown (discussed below), it ran this ammo 100%. Some semi-automatic scatterguns struggle with this cheap ammo, but the Aksa S4 ran it like a champ.

I also fired 110 mixed rounds of buckshot, slug, and turkey shells. The loads fired included Federal Law Enforcement buckshot and slugs, Fiocchi buckshot and slugs, cheapo no-name buckshot from a baggie in my basement, Winchester military 00 buck, and the least-expensive turkey shells from my local Sportsman’s Warehouse. Everything cycled fine, with the exception of Fiocchi low recoil buckshot. It did not like that load at all. Thankfully, that was the outlier.

The manipulations are exactly the same on the Aksa S4 and the Benelli M4. I have shot Benelli shotguns in the past and there were no differences in the manual of arms. Both the M4 and S4 benefit from larger aftermarket bolt release buttons and extended bolt handles. Extended magazine tubes can also be added, though that can trigger 922(r) compliance issues. I chose to stick with basic upgrades for this review, which would not change any functional parts of the Aksa S4. I added a piece of industrial Velcro to the left side of the receiver for use with Esstac Shotgun Cards, and a Vortex Crossfire red dot on the factory optics rail. Some reviews of similar guns reported that the optics rail came loose after firing. This gun did not have that issue.

The BurnDown

James has a history of blasting shells through shotguns as fast as he can to see what survives. Some guns handled it well, some did not. I wanted to do something similar, but with 200 rounds due to scarce ammunition and high prices. I did the burndown toward the end of the review, with about 325 rounds through the gun already. If something was going to fail, it would be more likely to fail with preexisting wear and tear before the real pain commenced.

The burndown was pretty simple. Load up 5+1, fire as fast as I could, load up 5+1 more, and do it again. There also were some top-off single loads mixed in too when I dropped a shell or missed the count on a reload. This was a truly unreasonable sustained rate of fire. The Aksa S4 got so hot that it scorched the leather glove on my lead hand through the handguards. My wife asked if I had eaten barbeque for lunch that day because the burning smell was so pronounced.

How did the Aksa S4 fare? Excellent. It has one hiccup, a failure to feed at round 178 of 200. I pressed the bolt release button and the round fired and cycled normally. Once the gun cooled off a little, I fired the remainder of the buckshot, slugs, and turkey shells. All fired normally with no drama, including some 3″ magnum Ultra Turkey 1 3/4 ounce loads that damaged me, but not the gun. I was able to land a head shot on a 2/3 IPSC steel target at about 60 yards with a 3″ Federal slug as well.

General Thoughts

A few sources had suggested that these guns were prone to parts breakage around the 500-round mark. I did not find that to be the case, but this is only one sample gun. What I can say from my totally non-scientific-definitely-not-an-engineer perspective is things look pretty good inside, and nothing looks like it is on the way to breaking.

The Aksa S4 includes 3 chokes (1 in the gun, two in a case), as well as a choke tube wrench. The wrench is pretty flimsy but it was able to remove the choke for the last few shells of the review. I did not see any marking on the chokes, so I used the age-old method of putting my finger in the front end to see how constrictive they were. I installed the most-constrictive one, and the patterns did shrink. Detailed patterning of shotguns is time intensive and beyond the scope of this review. What I can say is the chokes are there and if you feel like changing it up and looking at patterns, that option is available to you out of the box.

Conclusion

“Is it just as good?” is the wrong question. A clone that costs 70% less than the original Italian masterpiece will never be just as good. This is true with Italian guns, motorcycles, and food.

The real question should be “is it good when judged on its own merits?” and my answer is yes. It is a lot of gun for the money. Unlike many budget-oriented guns in its class, there is an aftermarket thanks to the M4 parts interchangeability. And it just might make you pick up a Benelli to round out the set some day.

Discover the ultimate air gun capable of propelling pellets at an astonishing 3000 fps! Unleash unrivaled power and precision with this cutting-edge air rifle, designed to deliver unparalleled performance. Prepare to experience a whole new level of shooting excellence as you delve into the world of high-velocity pellet propulsion.

What air gun pushes a pellet 3000 fps?

When it comes to air guns, achieving high velocities is a sought-after feature for many enthusiasts. One of the air guns that is capable of pushing a pellet at an impressive speed of 3000 feet per second (fps) is the Benjamin Bulldog.357. This powerful air rifle has gained popularity for its exceptional velocity and accuracy, making it a favorite among hunters and competitive shooters alike.

The Benjamin Bulldog.357 utilizes pre-charged pneumatic (PCP) technology, allowing it to generate immense power with each shot. Equipped with a large air reservoir and a regulated system, this air gun can deliver consistent high velocities. Additionally, it features a top-loading rotary magazine that holds up to five rounds, providing quick follow-up shots without compromising performance.

With its ability to propel pellets at 3000 fps, the Benjamin Bulldog.357 offers users an incredible level of kinetic energy and range. Whether used for hunting small game or target shooting, this air gun’s impressive velocity ensures accurate shot placement and increased effectiveness. However, it is important to note that achieving such speeds requires proper ammunition selection and adherence to safety guidelines to ensure responsible shooting practices.

In conclusion, various air guns have the capability to propel a pellet at speeds of up to 3000 fps. The selection of an appropriate air gun depends on factors such as caliber, power source, and intended use. It is important for individuals to research and consider their specific needs before choosing an air gun for optimal performance and safety.

I live in southeastern Pennsylvania, where open space and farmlands vanish at an alarming rate as properties are sold off for housing developments and commercial real estate projects. As a result, I need more than my 10 fingers to count the number of hunting properties I’ve lost access to over the years as the region’s population has grown.

To combat this, 12 years ago, my wife Allison and I purchased a house with a few acres of woods adjacent to it. One of the reasons for the 8-acre parcel was for privacy; the other was so I’d always have a few acres to bowhunt (She does love me!).

The challenge with hunting this property is that it’s bordered by a road on one side and usually an open field on the other. Hence, it took me a few years of hunting, running trail cameras, keeping a diary and doing plenty of scouting to determine when the best days of the year were to kill a deer on the property. In the end, I found the most concentrated buck activity on my land usually took place the days of Nov. 4-6, and my stand needed to be a ground blind set up in the lower corner of the property next to my woodlot — but not in it — for the best chance at success. While the end of October and first two weeks of November, in theory, should offer great deer hunting, the reality of my situation is that those three days typically provide the best chance for taking a buck.

Last fall, on a warm November day when the temperature climbed past 70, an 8-pointer made the fatal mistake of passing by me and my blind just after 9 a.m. The date was Saturday, Nov. 5, right in line with the three-day window noted above, just like clockwork.

The lesson here is that while any day is a good day to be out bowhunting, there are absolutely some time frames that are better than others, depending on when and where you hunt. For many bowhunters, it can be the days heading into the peak of the rut, while for others it may be the first few days of the season when deer are still unpressured. Others still can often pattern a given buck in late season, ambushing the animal on its way to a preferred feeding area.

No matter your personal hunting situation, one thing is for certain — the vast majority of hunters have a limited number of days they can take off to go afield. So, in an effort to help you plan for the upcoming season, we’re once again making our predictions for “can’t-miss” days to be in the woods this year.

We began our research by combing through the DataSport Fish & Game Forecaster, the book and app that predict wildlife movement for every hour of the year. The forecast is based on a complex computer algorithm that compiles data such as sunrise/sunset times, moon phases, the moon’s position relative to the Earth and more, while also factoring in other research and historical data. The end result is a comprehensive calendar of daily charts that suggest the best times for fish and wildlife activity every day of the year.

After reviewing the 2024 DataSport Forecaster, we asked our resident whitetail-hunting experts — Christian Berg, Clint Casper, Eddie Claypool and Bill Winke — to dive into the data while also incorporating their personal bowhunting experiences from over the years. In the end, we narrowed down our selections to the six days we feel you absolutely must be in the blind or stand this season. Here are our picks, along with some tips to help you maximize success during every part of the season.

Early Season — Sunday, September 3

If you live or travel to a state where deer season opens early, you know how good the hunting can be, at least on evening sits as deer move to feed. Plus, early September offers the opportunity to take a buck in velvet, although more and more deer are shedding theirs with each passing day.

If you don’t mind hunting in warm weather, this time of the year can be the perfect time to tag a buck you’ve been eying on the trail cameras in recent weeks, especially if he’s a frequent visitor to the food plot, woodlot or farm field you watch over. The DataSport Forecaster suggests there may be decent wildlife movement periods the first few days of the month, but our pick is Sept. 3 due to a strong peak coinciding with the evening sit.

Bill: The bucks will start to shed their velvet and break up their bachelor groups and disperse into their fall ranges right about this time, making it a little bit unpredictable. But you can still fall back on summer patterns and hope they hold up for a few more days. Hunt the spots where your visual and trail-cam sightings have told you the bucks are feeding in the evenings. Forget morning hunting at this time. If it is really dry, waterholes are a great bet.

Christian: As someone who has often traveled to hunt the early season in states with Sept. 1 openers, I can’t honestly tell you it is the most exciting kind of deer hunting. After all, most early-season bowhunts are “afternoon only,” because deer feed all night in ag fields, and it is virtually impossible to approach these areas before dawn without spooking animals…That said, the rewards of early-season hunting can be substantial in the form of big, velvet-covered antlers, and some of the biggest bucks nationwide are taken in early September each year. Pre-hunt scouting, both via trail cameras and glassing, is critical here, as bucks will still be on a summer feeding pattern and can be expected to at least semi-reliably appear in roughly the same places at roughly the same time each day. However, this pattern won’t last long, so it’s critical that you, or your outfitter, have all the ducks in a row and strike while the window of opportunity remains open.

On Sept. 3, the forecast shows peak afternoon deer activity coinciding closer to sunset than it does earlier in the week. Of course, if you’re on a weeklong, early-season hunt, chances are you’ll be out each evening. Just don’t get discouraged if the first day or two is slow, as the evening action is likely to pick up as the week goes on.

Pre-Rut — Friday, October 27

For many hunters, deer season doesn’t begin in earnest until around the 24th or 25th of October. As the daylight periods grow shorter and the rut approaches, it usually means more deer will be on the move. Get a cold front passing through and you can really see an increase in whitetail activity!

With the moonrise only about a half-hour from sunset, and good wildlife movement predicted for both morning and afternoon, Oct. 27 is our pick for this month. That said, the DataSport Forecaster predicts solid movement peaks every day Oct. 26-29, so any of these days should be good options. Watch the weather closely and be prepared to sneak out if the temperatures drop sharply.

Eddie: This time can’t be beat for killing a “local” mature buck, as they will not have begun traveling great distances from their core areas as of yet. Mature bucks will be engaged in huntable daytime movement now, patrolling nearby does, a few of which will have come into estrus in the previous week or so. Sneak into a travel corridor between thick cover and a doe feeding area, and be on full alert the first and last half-hour of daylight.

Clint: This time frame is statistically one of my absolute FAVORITES of the year, and for good reason. During this time, bucks are ramping up their daylight activity as the rut draws closer and closer. With the full moon present, expect increased buck activity in and around doe bedding and feeding areas as bucks are searching for that first hot doe. Good transitional zones from bed to feed, feeding areas and doe bedding areas will be great spots to home in on for the next few days. Rubs and scrapes will now be popping up everywhere. Be mobile and hunt the hottest sign available until you bounce into that buck of your dreams.

Peak Rut — Tuesday, Nov. 7 & Sunday, Nov. 12

Survey 100 hunters in the Northeast, Midwest and Mid-Atlantic Regions, and it’s a safe bet that more than 90 percent of them would say the first week of November is the best week to be in the whitetail woods all year long. Well, this year the DataSport Forecaster is predicting only average daytime wildlife movement during that week. However, we all know deer don’t pay attention to prognostications, and local conditions on the ground will have much more of an influence on what whitetails will be doing and when.

For 2024, we’re actually picking two “must-hunt” days. One is Nov. 7 since it falls within the traditional whitetail chasing phase that gets bowhunters so pumped up. Wildlife activity is predicted to be at its daylight peak between 9 and 9:30 a.m., making it a great day to stay in the stand all morning.

The other day is Nov. 12. Although many bucks may be locked in tight cover on hot does my mid-month, hit it right and you can have a spectacular morning or afternoon sit. During these first two weeks of the month, it’s also a good idea to plan for all-day-sits — unless the weather is atypically warm — because you never know when a big buck might finish with the doe he is with, or even cruise in from a neighboring area.

Bill: Nov. 7 has long been my favorite single day of the season because so many really good bucks are shot on — or very close to — this date. Funnels are always a good bet at this time. The bucks are actively looking for does early in the rut, so focus on hunting the downwind fringe of doe bedding areas in the mornings and close to places where does feed in the evenings. As the rut wears on, does will stop coming out in the open to feed, but for now you should still find them, and the bucks looking for them, near food in the evenings. This is the time to hunt all day.

Christian: When it comes to specific days to target during the rut, many hunters adopt a “set it and forget it” mindset and simply put in for vacation in the Nov. 5-7 time frame year after year. While there’s no doubt these are great days to be in the woods, a closer look at the forecast for this fall indicates the end of that week — specifically the Nov. 10-12 period — may in fact end up yielding this year’s hottest rut action.

Nov. 12, specifically, looks to be the best day of the week, with very good action predicted both morning and midday. Similar conditions are forecast for the 10th and 11th as well, which should be no surprise considering the approaching New Moon on Nov. 13 and moonrise and moonset times during this period that roughly coincide with peak morning and evening hunting hours. Add it all together with the whitetail’s normal November agenda and you have the perfect recipe for all-day sits.

Secondary Rut — Wednesday, December 13

By now, peak rut has come and gone — and firearms season may have too, depending on where you live — so bowhunting at this time of year can be tough. However, in some areas a number of unbred does and even early-born fawns may come into estrus, attracting the interest of at least a few bucks.

The trick at this time of the year is to hunt areas where deer feel safe and have access to good, preferably nearby, food sources. The DataSport Forecaster is predicting good afternoon movement Dec. 13, with favorable moonrise and moonset times that day. Factor in the New Moon the day before and everything sets up for what may be a great evening on stand.

Eddie: Find the primary food source for the majority of the local does (and) pick multiple spots that will situate you downwind of said food source, where thicker cover transitions into more open cover that is leading to and from the food source. There can be intense flurries of rut activity during this time, so don’t leave your grunt tube or rattling horns at home.

Clint: With the primary rut in our rearview mirror, we must now switch gears and start thinking about the second wave of rutting activity and food! Body weight has been cut down dramatically, so bucks will not only be seeking out the second wave of breeding action but also the hottest food sources available.

The does will now lead the show, and your scouting efforts should consist of locating good food sources that are attracting lots of does, and the bucks will follow. With a New Moon present, I’d primarily focus on evening hunts during this time frame, as the action should be great with bucks heading to check food sources for does and a good meal for themselves.

Late Season — Saturday, January 13

Most hunters have long since put away their bows by the time the New Year comes in, but dedicated archery enthusiasts willing to brave the elements in January know they can still capitalize on big bucks, which have shifted their focus to surviving the winter. Unless you have a honey hole with tons of deer and no pressure, it’s best to concentrate efforts on evening hunts as deer move from bedding to feeding areas. Of course, this also allows you to avoid the bone- chilling cold that accompanies early-morning sits at this time of the year.

The DataSport Forecaster predicts wildlife activity should be very good to excellent on the afternoons of Jan. 12-14, so any or all of these days could be worth a trip to the stand, especially if weather conditions are in your favor. That said, we’re going with the 13th since there’s a strong afternoon peak that coincides perfectly with prime hunting time.

Clint: Late is great! With most hunters tagged out, or having hung the bow up for the year, the woods now belong to those who still want to grind it out. With cold and snow in the forecasts often, a smart bowhunter will be searching for south-facing slopes and available food sources. Due to the rigors of the rut, bucks have lost a ton of weight, so food is now king. Scout on foot and use cameras to your advantage to locate a good feed source and then set your trap. Inside field edges, corners and good transition zones from south-facing slopes, which get the most sunlight, to a good food source will be the hot ticket!

DataSport Fish & Game Forecaster

Now in its 50th year, the DataSport Fish & Game Forecaster has been used by countless sportsmen over the decades to help decide when the best times may be to head out to the woods or water. The original fish and wildlife movement predictor, the Forecaster is developed based on two main guiding principles:

• By studying and documenting past wildlife patterns and statistics, you can identify trends that are likely to repeat themselves.
• There are many predictable factors (sunrise, sunset, lunar forces, etc.) that dictate these patterns of activity.

According to DataSport President John Lehman, a number of people actually contact him each year before the Forecaster is even published to ask for the best week to hunt the next fall so they can plan their hunting trips.

“Generally speaking, I feel that some hunters don’t ‘believe’ (in the forecast) at all, while others are completely sold,” Lehman said. “I try to get the non-believers to go out and just observe wildlife, whether they’re scouting or actually hunting, and come back to see if the time they’ve seen most activity mirrors the prediction. So many times it is extremely close and, if it isn’t, there’s usually a weather-related factor (involved).”

In making its daily predictions, the Forecaster looks at a variety of short- and long-range factors such as the amount of daylight, moon phases, moon positioning and more that can influence game movement. And whether you are a sceptic or devotee of the forecast, one thing is for certain — it’s an inexpensive tool that may help, and certainly won’t hinder, your preparation and planning for the season.

Get the Forecaster: $14.95 for book; $4.99 app (for iPhone/iPad/iTouch only) datasportinc.com; 404-252-5544