It seems as though there aren’t many new methods for taking a buck these days. It almost seems as though every tactic for killing big bucks has already been brought to the table. That is what I thought until I spoke with Iowans Todd Pringnitz and Ted Miller from White Knuckle Productions. What they taught me was that there is an exciting new method out there for drawing in bucks. It is the horizontal rub post. That’s right. Horizontal.

We are all familiar with rubs. They are as commonplace in the deer woods as the deer themselves, but rarely does hunting rubs alone bring in a buck. Horizontal rub posts do. They were the creation of Ted Miller, and he actually discovered them by mere happenstance.

While filming elk in Yellowstone National Forest nearly ten years ago, Miller got repeated footage of bulls that were attracted to certain areas with blown down trees. They would rub their antlers on those trees or on branches shooting out horizontally. He wasn’t looking for this behavior at all. He was just observant enough to pick up on what the elk were doing, and it got him thinking, “I wonder if I can try this at home on whitetails.”

When he returned home he started putting his idea to work. What he found was pretty interesting. “I didn’t have any experience making these posts, so for my very first one, I went to one of my food plots and drove two posts into the ground and wired a limb to the posts about knee high or a little higher,” he recalls. “That was back when trail cameras were really just catching on. I didn’t have a trail camera at the time, so I just went back two or three days later and checked on it.” The limb had been worked.

So, he set up a ground blind at that spot, and on his first night sitting in the blind with his son, a large buck came and worked the post right in front of them. They got some good video footage of the deer working the rub but when it came time to shoot, the deer spooked. Regardless, the experience was one Miller will never forget, and is likely the very first time a hunter has ever used a horizontal rub post. It set the stage for many more such encounters for Miller. “That was the very first one I ever did and over the years I have figured out what the deer like and want out of them. I have been able to improve them along the way.”

The Limb Matters

The main thing that Miller found was that the type of limb can make all the difference. “Most hunters in Iowa were using cedar trees in their posts. The adage is that bucks prefer to rub on cedars, but they weren’t having a lot of success with them. I have found that Scotch pine limbs work the best.” The reasons are brilliant when you think about it.

First, when using scotch pines, there is no need to cut down the whole tree as you would with a cedar. Mature scotch pines are bigger, allowing you to simply cut off a limb rather than take the whole tree. Plus, they are not native to the area. They are more of a Christmas tree and are planted and easy to find if you look around. Miller has several planted in his yard, making finding them a cinch!

He also notes that the limbs should be about the size of your wrist or slightly larger in diameter so they won’t break when a buck gets aggressive with it.

Another thing that he has learned over the years – and probably the most important thing – is that once you find the limb you are going to use, cut it longer than the gap between your posts. “I like to run my limb about two feet or so past one end of my posts so it sticks out from the end on the side I want the bucks to work. I found that they prefer working the end that is sticking out past the posts much more than they do the part of the limb that lies between the posts. I think it is just more convenient for them.”

Another trick that he has discovered is to attach the limb loosely to the posts so it has some play in it. “Different bucks have different personalities. Some like to get aggressive and fight with it a little bit, so when I wire my limb up, I do so that it will move up and down about six inches to a foot or so. This gives it some give and allows the limb to rock up and down when a buck wants to fight with it and such.”

The last couple of years Miller has been adding a licking branch to his horizontal rub posts. “I just run another limb above it to act as a sign post. I’m just trying to give a buck everything that he wants in order to hold his attention.” He usually just attaches the licking branch above the end of the limb that sticks out past the post, but he says that if your posts are tall enough you can attach it to one of them and have it hang down. Or, you can also position your set-up underneath a tree that has a limb hanging down above your horizontal limb. Any situation will work.

An Added Benefit

A really great thing about using these rub posts is that they actually hold a deer in a certain spot for a while. A great plus for Miller who enjoys getting video footage of deer. “It’s really hard to get a buck to stop long enough to get any decent footage of him, but with these rubs, they tend to stay there and work it for a little bit. This really helps me out when I am filming. It also allows you to learn a lot about buck behavior.”

What Bucks Use It?

Miller has seen everything from spikes to Boone and Crockett bucks use his horizontal rubs, so no matter what type of buck you are after, it will work. He does note, however, that some bucks, especially smaller ones, will come in cautiously as they might be intimidated at first. But nonetheless, it attracts bucks of all calibers.

Scent?

Nope. Miller doesn’t use any on his limbs, noting that the Scotch pine itself is a sticky, sappy type of tree anyway and will absorb and hold the scent of the deer that use it. That is all that is required to help draw more deer in.

Where and When to Use It

Obviously they are most effective towards the rut, but they are effective earlier than that as well. Miller notes that bucks will begin hitting them as soon as they shed their velvet, although the most active times are from mid-October until the rut is completed, so be sure to set yours up around the first of October or so.

As for where to place your horizontal rubs, Miller doesn’t feel that a buck is going to get up and walk a half-mile just to hit it, so he says to set them up anywhere you feel that bucks want to be or in areas where you plan to hunt and see high buck activity. Food plots and staging areas are prime examples.

The Bottom Line

Miller found his horizontal rub post system by accident, and he has perfected it over the years. In my opinion, this may be one of the most under-utilized tactics for drawing in bucks, and perhaps, one you should be trying this fall.

To learn more about Miller’s horizontal rub posts, check out www.whiteknuckleproductions.com.

I hear it often this time of year, “I need to get my bow tuned up” or “I’m having trouble getting my bow to tune.” Generally speaking, tuning a bow might seem mysterious or at least something that can only be done by your local pro shop. While your local pro shop is a great resource to get your bow tuned, tuning a bow is something that every bowhunter should at least understand and, in many cases, do themselves. So let’s talk about what tuning actually means.

How do you define a well-tuned bow?

For me, my ultimate goal is to deliver a broadhead-tipped arrow to the exact spot I intend it to hit. Specifically, I want it to hit at 20 yards all the way to 80 yards. I want the arrow to enter as straight as possible, cutting efficiently and carrying as much kinetic energy through as it can. I also want the bow to be a little bit forgiving to a slight tweak in my form in a less than perfect situation. I want it to hold well and be accurate. I also want to be able to spend the preseason months practicing with both field and broadhead-tipped arrows. I want them to hit together and I want my practice to build my confidence and confirm that my form and bow and arrow setup are as lethal as I can get them. That is what I consider a well-tuned bow. With that, let’s jump into how to tune a compound bow.

Some suggest that a bow has to “paper tune,” which is a visual indication of what an arrow is doing very quickly after it leaves the bow. Others discard paper tuning altogether and suggest that “bare shaft” tuning is the only way to properly tune. A few other types of tuning methods that are tossed around are “group tuning,” “broadhead tuning,” “walk-back tuning” and, perhaps, even torque tuning although that is addressing a more specific issue. Every method has its fans and its critics. Personally, I like to utilize multiple methods. By doing this, I gain greater confidence in my setup.

Nocking point, rest location and cam timing

Whether you are pulling a brand new bow out of the box or you are starting over and setting your bow up again from scratch, the first thing I like to do is bottom out both the top and bottom limbs. Next, I visually check for cam timing. By cam timing, I mean that both cams are in sync and both roll over at the same time. Well-timed cams allow the draw stops on each cam to contact the cables or limbs at exactly the same time. Many of the newer compound bows have indication marks or holes on the cams that you can look at to see if the cams are timed.

For example, my Mathews VXR has a hole on each cam that you can look at to see where the cable is in relation to the cam. Each cable centered visually through those holes tells me that the bow is likely in time. Cam timing is important. If one cam is reaching full rotation before the other, it will result in an arrow that, if receiving more rotation from one cam, results in an arrow that will show either high or low paper tears that you probably won’t be able to work out by moving your rest or nocking point. Long story short: do a quick check visually for cam timing before you even get started.

What if my cams are not in time?

Cam rotation can be manipulated by adding or even removing twists from the cables in order to get the draw stops hitting at the same time. If you twist a cable, you are effectively shortening it, thus increasing the distance the draw stop has to rotate to stop. Untwisting does the opposite — it lengthens the cable and reduces the distance of rotation for the draw stop to hit. I always try to utilize twisting cables or strings rather than untwisting. Also, be aware that the twisting and untwisting can have other impacts on draw length and draw weight.

Also at this point, I like to do a quick measure of the axle to axle length and the brace height to see if those measurements meet the manufacturer’s recommendations. Axle to axle is measured from the center of the top axle to the center of the bottom axle on the shelf side of the bow. Brace height is measured from the deepest part of the grip to the bow string. If your bow appears to have good cam timing and the brace height and axle to axle are close to factory spec, then my next step is to set a nocking point.

To set a nocking point, my method is to measure the distance between the two axles and set my nocking point so the arrow is centered between that. I then tie in my nocking point. After that, I install my rest and lock it down with my arrow at a 90 degree angle to the string.

Another method is to attach your rest is to put your bow in a bow vise. Use a level and the vise to put your bow in a position that your string is perfectly vertical (i.e. level). Next, use an arrow on your string and adjust your rest height so that the arrow is running through the center of the berger hole (rest attachment hole) and it is 90 degrees running from your leveled string. At that point, tie in your nocking point(s) and secure your rest vertically.

After I have the nocking point tied in, my rest attached and the arrow squared, I set the horizontal location of my rest. I start with my rest at 13/16” from the edge of the riser. I may end up moving that if need be, but that’s a good starting point. For my Mathews bows, that is the magic spot for my rest.

With the nocking point and rest set, I tie in my D-loop. After that, I draw the bow several times to get a feel for the cam timing. A draw board is the best way to check timing, but if you do not have one you can have someone watch your cams as you draw. You can also get a good feel for it yourself by slowing down and drawing your bow repeatedly. Never draw a bow without having an arrow nocked.

Arrow selection & other accessories

Before moving to the next step of actually shooting the bow you have to think about arrow selection and the other accessories you are going to put on your bow.

You will need to shoot an arrow that has the proper spine for your setup. By spine, I mean the stiffness of the arrow. If the arrow is too weakly spined or too stiffly spined for your bow, it will be very tough and likely impossible to tune. Most arrow manufacturers have charts they provide where you can find your draw length and draw weight. The chart will indicate the proper spine for you to shoot.

Another method, which is what I would recommend, is to utilize the “shaft selector” software that is available online through a company called Archers Advantage. The cost is about $10 and, with it, you can build setups and generate an arrow that is perfectly tailored to you.

For example, I can input the model of bow, my draw length and draw weight. Then, I can play with arrow spines, lengths, components and I can create the perfect arrow for my bow. It’s a great product and I highly recommend it.

After you have picked an arrow, I’d suggest that you work on getting your stabilizer(s) and sight attached. Anything on your bow, including your accessories — even your peep sight — is going to impact the tune. I’ve seen guys shoot a bare bow that tuned perfectly and then added a stabilizer setup and they suddenly have a bad paper tear or poor bare shaft results.

Finally, you have your bow set up and are ready to fire a few arrows and start to tune.

Paper Tuning

I like to start out by paper tuning. For one, it’s relatively easy to do in a small space and I can do it at home in my equipment room. To paper tune your bow, you’ll need a bow, arrows, a frame that can hold a piece of paper that you can shoot through and a target placed behind it. The goal of paper tuning is to stand approximately 6’ to 8’ from the paper and shoot an arrow through the paper into the target. The resulting “tear” through the paper is a perfectly centered hole. A perfect tear would indicate the arrow is leaving the bow with true flight. In order to get a perfect paper tear, your arrow rest, nocking point, cam timing, grip and arrow spine all have to be correct.

Fixing paper tears

Left tear (nock left – point right)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest rightMove cam(s) left or short left yokeUse stiffer arrow or decrease point weightMove cable guard toward arrow

Right tear (nock right – point left)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest leftMove cam(s) right or shorten right yokeUse weaker arrow or increase point weightMove cable guard away from arrow

High tear (nock high – point low)

RestNock pointCam(s)Cable guardMove rest upMove nock point downTwist cable for top camTake a 1/4″ turn out of top limb bolt

Low tear (nock low – point high)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest downMove nock point upTwist cable for bottom camTake a 1/4″ turn out of bottom limb bolt

A combo of tears can be fixed by combining methods. For example, a high left tear might be fixed by moving the rest right and up. Generally, I would recommend you start with the easiest adjustment and retest before moving to steps like stiffer or weaker arrows, cam shimming, etc. More information on how to tune a Mathews bow with top hats can be found here.

Bare shaft tuning

After paper tuning, bare shaft tuning is my second step in the process. Bare shaft tuning is quite simple, but you have to have relatively good, repeatable shooting form. Start with two or three bare shafts (no fletchings) and two or three regular fletched arrows and shoot them, starting at about 15 to 20 yards. The goal is to have the bare shaft and the fletched arrows hit the exact same point. The bare shaft should enter the target at the same vertical and horizontal plane/angle as the fletched arrows. A well-tuned bow will group those arrows together and they will enter the target exactly the same way.

But what if they do not hit together?

Similar to the paper tuning method, your options for getting good bare shaft flight are to move the rest, the nocking point, the cam(s) left or right, adjust the left or right yoke, adjust the cam timing or make changes to your arrow setup.

Bare shaft tuning fix (point of impact)

Bare shaft leftBare shaft rightBare shaft highBare shaft lowRestMove rest leftMove rest rightLower restRaise restNock point-Raise knocking pointLower nocking pointCam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-YokesTwist right yokeTwist left yoke-Cam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-Cam Timing-Twist cable bottom camTwist cable top camArrowsMaybe too stiffMaybe too weak-Other causeDraw length maybe too shortDraw length maybe too long-

As you begin to tune, make changes in small increments. It also helps to record the changes you make and monitor the results. It may take days to work out the tune, ensure that you are shooting with good form and executing good shots.

Walk back tuning

Walk back is yet another method to help you guarantee that your bow’s centershot is true, meaning your rest is in the proper position left to right. The process is simple: you shoot at a single spot on a target using the same pin at a variety of distances and monitor the results.

First, apply a piece of tape vertically straight up and down (plumb) through the middle of your target. Make sure you have an aiming point that the tape runs through. Then sight in your twenty yard pin to that aiming point. Now, moving back to 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards, aiming and shooting at the same aiming point and using your same 20 yard pin at each distance. If you shoot a single pin slider, do not move your sight. At each distance, use the same 20 yard pin.

A well-tuned rest center shot will yield in a straight vertical line. Every arrow should be vertically in a line in the tape, 20 all the way to 60 yards ( I ). If the line of arrow runs off to the left ( / ), you will need to move your rest to the right. If your arrows run off to the right ( ), you’ll need to move your rest to the left.

Make small changes and reshoot as you go. Remember that after you make an adjustment to your rest you will likely have to move your sight and resight in again at 20 yards before starting the walk back process again. Recording your adjustments and results can help you keep things moving in a positive manner. Once again, this may take a few days to make sure you get good shots and results.

Torque tuning

For those that have even more time to test and tinker, torque tuning might be worth considering. Torque tuning essentially is adjusting your rest into a position (forward or farther back) so that when your grip is less than perfect (like it regularly is in a hunting situation) your arrow will still fly true.

To start, sight your bow in at 20 yards. Then, draw your bow and slightly torque your grip so that the riser has more pressure to one side or the other (use common sense, do not derail your bow) As you do so, take note of what direction your stabilizer is pointing, then put your pin on the target and fire an arrow.

If the arrow impacts the direction that your stabilizer was pointing when torqued, move your rest farther back and repeat. If the arrow impacts the opposite direction of the way your stabilizer was pointing, then move your rest farther forward and repeat. Overall, you are trying to find the sweet spot where, if you have less than perfect grip and are torquing the bow, the arrow will still impact the desired spot. After you find the spot, test your results by torquing the bow both left and right and shooting to confirm your results. You can also step your yardage back to 30 or even 40 yards and repeat to fine-tune your rest location for maximum forgiveness.

Broadhead tuning

Finally, good broadhead flight is the reason we all started tuning in the first place and, if you’ve done the work with other methods like paper tuning and bare shaft tuning, it should be really close already.

A fixed-blade broadhead is going to have more surface area than your field tips and because of this will exaggerate an error in flight. Before I begin shooting broadheads, there are a few steps I like to take to ensure that any issues I might see are not the issues with the arrow/broadhead and are, indeed, issues with tune.

The first step is to install a broadhead and check for alignment by spinning each arrow. Any misalignment will cause a wobble in the arrow and poor flight. To check each arrow, use an arrow spinner like the Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector. Spin each arrow, taking note of the broadhead tip, watching for any wobble in the tip. Another method that I prefer is to put the tip of the broadhead up against a cardboard box and as you spin the arrow you will see the point start to make a circle in the cardboard if there is any misalignment. Perfect alignment will result in a pin hole in the cardboard and perfect alignment.

If the arrow tip does make a circle in the box, rotate the arrow tip until it’s in the top most position then use a sharpie to mark the arrow tip at that position. Rotate that arrow 180 degrees from that mark and then apply pressure to the point of the head on a hard surface. What you are wanting to do is to bend or push the insert in alignment with the broadhead. Recheck alignment by spinning the arrow and broadhead again. After your arrow/broadhead combos are put together, it’s time to shoot them.

For a detailed look at broadhead tuning, you can check out an article and video I did on this here.

Hopefully, your broadheads fly perfectly and impact along with your field tips out to 80 yards, but sometimes that is not the case. One of the most common questions I get about broadhead flight is how do I get my broadheads to fly with my field tips? Also, what is your broadhead flight telling you about your tune? The first thing I would suggest is that you should not automatically just move your sight so your broadheads are impacting where you want. That is a Band-Aid and you won’t be able to practice with field tips and have them impact where you want. Below, I have included a table to help you get your broadheads and field tips hitting together.

Broadhead tuning your bow

IssueRest fixCam fixBroadheads hitting leftMove rest leftMove cam rightBroadheads hitting right Move rest rightMove cam leftBroadheads hitting highMove rest down or move nock point upTwist cable for bottom camBroadheads hitting lowMove rest up or move nock point downTwist cable for top cam

After you make adjustments to your rest to get your field tips and broadheads hitting together, then move your sight to re-sight in your pins. This method will ensure your bow is well-tuned (good paper/bare shaft tune) and your broadheads and field tips hit exactly where you want them to!

Finally, I’ll provide another table below that can help in your tuning efforts and setting your bow to spec.

General tuning cause and effect

Twisting stringUntwisting stringTwisting cableUntwisting cableAxle to axleDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesBrace heightIncreasesDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesHolding weightIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesIncreasesDraw lengthDecreasesIncreasesIncreasesDecreases

In conclusion

Hopefully the COVID-19 pandemic will pass quickly and we can all get back to some normalcy and prepare for the fall hunting seasons. While we have some time at home, stay safe, enjoy time with family and put some real effort into having the most well-tuned bow you have ever entered a season with. All the best!

Disclosure: We may get commissions for purchases made through links in this post.

Among the strongest and most reliable ATVs ever produced is the Kawasaki Prairie 650. This mean machine, launched in 2002, dominated the off-roading scene and introduced many firsts to the public – defining the sport-utility sub-segment in the process. It was one of the most successful off-road vehicles of its time, earning the “Design and Engineering Award” in Popular Mechanics and being highly regarded by ATV magazines and publications.

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 goes down in ATV history as the world’s first mass-produced quad to sport a V-Twin power mill. Apart from its monstrous 633-cm3 engine, this award-winning 4×4 boasts a variable limited-slip front differential, impressive powerband, and industry-leading features.

One of Team Green’s breakthrough machines, the Kawasaki Prairie 650, started a whole new era of high-standard behemoths – its massive torque making it a force to be reckoned with (literally!). No wonder it has inspired the creation of other iconic Kawasaki quads. Read on and learn more about the capabilities and evolution of this off-road legend.

The King of Firsts

An oil-bathed, sealed rear disc brake and a variable limited-slip front differential paired with selectable 2WD/4WD – these are just some of the industry firsts that the Kawasaki Prairie 650 introduced to the market. These features may be puny for some (in today’s standards). But two decades ago, only a handful of well-engineered ORVs had these luxuries – and the lime-green wheeler was one of them.

Initially conceptualized as a utility quad, the Prairie soon morphed into a sport-utility four-wheeler to cater to the increasing number of riders gravitating toward dual-purpose, big-bore machines.

Launched as a 650-class ATV, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 soon upgraded to a 697-cm3 power mill in 2004. The Prairie left the Brute Force lineup to carry on the slightly smaller engine displacement for a little while – as the said series eventually released the Kawasaki Brute Force 750 4x4i five years after.

Whether it be the 650- or 700-class trim, both big-bore machines had dual carbs and shared almost similar vehicle dimensions. Undoubtedly, this uncanny resemblance between the two is why most consumers confuse one with the other.

Performance

This high-performance wheeler is unquestionably bulletproof. However, tight wooded trails and rough terrain are not the most suitable for this big-bore machine. The topography adversely affects the performance of its suspension system. In these environments, the Prairie falls behind its counterparts in soaking up bumps and ripples. Owners can always equip their 4x4s with Rear Shocks.

But since the front suspension is non-adjustable, it would be challenging for the quad’s suspension system to be fully optimized.

Conversely, the four-wheeler can soar through straight-line acceleration on grass tracks and straightaways. Steep engine-draining trails and mountains also become playgrounds for this beast – thanks to its differential lock, twin-carburetor setup, and unrelenting power.

In truth, the Kawasaki Prairie 650 can slice through these settings’ most technical portions with ease – but in the hands of a highly-skilled driver.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Specs & Features

Engine

Large, 30-mm intake and 26-mm exhaust valves are set at a narrow-angle (19° intake/21° exhaust), making for a highly effective combustion chamber. A high-quality foam air filter and dual Keihin CVKR-D32 downdraft carburetors lend to the vehicle’s fuel efficiency and smooth throttle responsiveness. (TIP: When cleaning the fuel tank, never use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to avoid potential dangers of fire or explosion.)

Drivetrain

A dual-range automatic KAPS (Kawasaki Automatic Powerdrive System) CVT transmission, inclusive of the Kawasaki Engine Brake Control system and a reverse, handle the shifting. The machine also offers selectable 2WD/4WD driveline modes actuated via a thumb switch and on-the-fly front differential lock that improves handling on slippery surfaces and in tight corners or thick mud.

Ignition

The KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release), paired with an electric-recoil starting system, makes starting the Prairie 650 a breeze. A cigarette-style DC outlet at the handlebar base and a trailer-type connector at the rear provide quick, accessible power for electronic accessories.

At some point, you would need to swap out stock batteries. If so, a Kepworth KP14-BS 12V LiFePO4 Battery (view on Amazon) would be a good replacement – it is leak-proof and has a low self-discharge rate.

Tires & Brakes

Dual front hydraulic disc brakes fitted with dual-piston calipers and enclosed oil-bathed multi-disc rear disc brakes provide stopping power. This brake system mates to a Kawasaki-exclusive Engine Brake Control system that electronically observes ground speed and uses engine compression to slow the quad down.

Suspension

Minimal differences can be observed between the Prairie 360 and this machine’s suspension components since the former is an exact carbon-copy of the latter. The caster angle and rear suspension wheel travel were improved a bit, while the rest remained unchanged.

Dimensions

While the Prairie 650 weighs the same as its smaller-displacement sibling, this 4×4 has a larger trailer weight and carrier capacity. The curb weight is 294.06 Kg/648.3 lbs – merely 5.0 lbs more than the Brute Force 650.

Exterior

Unlike Team Green’s 300-class four-wheelers, the Prairie 650 did not fall short on instrumentation. A multi-function meter comes standard across all trims and year models. Adjustable footpegs atop full footboards make long trail rides enjoyable. The saddle comfortably sits taller riders. Plus, the machine’s tubular space frame allows owners to personalize their wheelers with aftermarket Kawasaki Prairie 650 parts and accessories.

K-EBC™ (Kawasaki Engine Brake Control)

The K-EBC™ system enhances the quad’s brake systems with the engine’s additional braking force. Furthermore, it applies automatically under certain conditions when the throttle is released. This feature is ideal for use when descending steep declines, becoming an added safety measure that keeps the speed of the Prairie safe regardless of the type of terrain, rider skill level, or operating conditions.

However, note that the K-EBC™ is best as a supplemental braking system at low speeds (between 3-20 km/h) and does not work in reverse.

Kawasaki Prairie 650 Pricing

The table below shows the list price of all Kawasaki Prairie 650- and 700-cc models and trims released from 2002 to 2006 (Source: Nada Guides):

Surprisingly, auction listings are slightly higher than retail pricing and range from $775 to $4,510. Resale units are mostly 2002-2003 models – vehicle conditions vary depending on the year, trim, and upkeep done by the previous owner. Typically, pre-loved Prairies have 8,000 miles, 430 to < 1,900 hours, and with no title.

Rare finds, on the other hand, are freshly overhauled and come with a recovery winch like Mile Marker 77-53120W Premium Sealed Electric Winch (view on Amazon) or aftermarket wheels/tires. If you want to be guaranteed a Prairie in near-mint condition, be prepared to spend at least $2,800 for a secondhand unit.

Known Issues of the Prairie 650

The Kawasaki Prairie 650 4×4’s service manual contains troubleshooting steps that would solve most of its common problems. But for more persistent challenges, you need to visit forums and other Kawie community sites to get specifics on how to resolve them. Here are some of the machine’s more prevalent issues and their corresponding fixes:

Cold-starting Hiccups

If the Kawasaki Prairie 650 quads had one major setback, that would be a specific functionality of its monstrous V-Twin engine. This powerplant retards the vehicle’s ignition until it reaches a certain RPM, leading to a difficult engine startup – particularly on a cold February morning.

If you are a long-time Prairie owner, you would know that the choke is used more frequently during cold weather. Otherwise, you may want to check if the under-seat valve is turned on or if there is any obstruction in the petcock valve, causing possible fuel starvation.

Faulty K-EBC™ and 2WD/4WD Actuators

The engine brake system and driveline actuators of the Prairie 650 are quite an upset for Kawie riders, as they are not known for their durability. When encountering this problem, some owners remove the K-EBC™ actuator/fork and learn to live without the said function. Others choose to remove the 2WD/4WD actuator, modifying it to have a choke cable setup to run manually.

However, addressing the issue entails more than just pinning the blame on the actuator/controller alone. Defective electrical components could also cause the problem, such as:

• Shorted/Open speed sensor
• Forward/Reverse gear detecting a shorted/open sensor
• Controller (10 Amp) fuse blown
• Disconnected battery

Leaking Oil Seals

Engine and front/rear differential oil seals on the Kawasaki Prairie 650 tend to leak. Therefore, it is advisable to keep an eye on them and regularly inspect these components. Oil seal lips that are misshapen, discolored, or hardened indicate rubber deterioration and warrant immediate replacement. The same goes for oil seals that are visibly damaged or dried out.

Veteran owners do not recommend jumping while in 4WD, as this also aggravates the leaking problem. It would also be wise to check other things like degraded valve gaskets, damaged driveshaft/axles, and oxidation on the shaft and other metal surfaces. Quads that have sat for a while are also more likely to have this problem than those frequently used and properly maintained.

Weak Choke Springs

First-year Prairie 650 carburetors had flimsy choke springs that caused gasoline to fill the engine when not in use. Similarly, post-2002 models had sticky choke plungers that resulted in poor idling. The permanent fix for this issue was to replace the stock choke springs with a later-model-year variant.

Turning off the petcock valve when the quad is not in use also helps, especially before trailering or storage (and for extended periods). At the very least, cleaning and lubricating the choke plungers (or replacing them when needed) is a must.

Other Problems

• MacPherson Strut springs are too soft for fast-paced riding.
• Airbox snorkel and CDI are too restrictive.
• Swingarm bearings and rear secondary clutch wear out prematurely.
• The fuse box connections are prone to corrosion.
• The stock radiator fan breaker (a.k.a. buss connector) tends to malfunction.
• Mounting bolts on the rocker arm shaft tend to loosen, potentially causing catastrophic damage to the motor’s top-end.

Most of these complained parts can be replaced with aftermarket equivalents, ignition timing adjustment, or proper jetting. Others are resolved or prevented through religious upkeep of the machine and avoiding over-the-top activities.

Do not worry – sport racing, serious mudding, and ripping through the dunes are not prohibited. But please, do these in moderation. And remember to clean your four-wheeler thoroughly after every ride.

About Kawasaki

Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd. is a prominent institution in the ATV landscape and maker of industry-leading vehicles like the Kawasaki Prairie 650. The Japanese firm was founded in 1878 and traces its humble beginnings to being a part supplier for shipping businesses.

Since then, this world-renowned manufacturer has ventured into other transport industries and grown into massive production of transit, aerospace and energy systems, hydraulic machinery, motorcycles, off-road vehicles, side x sides, and personal watercraft.

Conclusion – Kawasaki Prairie 650 Review

One thing often overlooked about high-performance quads like the Kawasaki Prairie 650 is that they require a certain level of maintenance and care. What all riders must realize is top-caliber 4x4s are usually the most finicky. Therefore, flimsy parts or factory-assembly flaws are not always responsible for wear and tear. Driving conditions and not rider behavior have more of an adverse impact on the longevity of our vehicle.

All in all, this highly-acclaimed trail beast is a dream to ride. Its smooth but monstrous power delivery, low-range torque, well-designed chassis, and other best-engineered mechanisms only prove why present-day off-road icons took inspiration from this big-bore machine. If you want a four-wheeler that can conquer slow-crawling sections as well as high-altitude areas, then look no further than the hardworking and timeless Kawasaki Prairie 650.

BY ROBERT RIPLEY

In June of 2021, I was shocked to learn I had drawn an Idaho moose tag for the 2021 season. I quickly found the outfitter that held the permit for the unit I was to hunt — Broadmouth Canyon Ranch, which runs a famous high fence elk hunting program. They do own a large amount of land that is fair chase property. Little did I know, I was going to go on a hunt that was almost perfect.

Because of prior hunts in early in October, I got to the lodge on October 28. News of my moose tag had proceeded me. When I entered, I was an instant celebrity. All of the elk hunters wanted to talk about moose hunting and my tag. We all oohed and aahed at the moose head that hung over the fireplace.

My guide Tate and I met at breakfast well before sunrise. He said he knew a couple of places that should hold moose. We would be glassing off of some ridges. I pointed out that this was my first moose hunt and no clue what to look for. He said we would be hunting the Shiras moose, which is the smallest moose in North America, and that a good bull would have ten points on both sides.

We rode a side-by-side on dirt roads I will never find again. It was well below freezing and we had no windows on the side by side so warm gear was necessary. After a cold ride we came up on a ridge, made a hard left then slammed on the brakes. Tate pointed to my right where two cow moose stood 25 yards from us. They were not spooked, they just stood and stared. This had to be a good omen, right?

We turned around to find somewhere we would not spook them. We began glassing as the light of dawn creeped over the mountains. We glassed an area of deep canyons that stretched for miles. I’ve hunted wild hogs in California for years. It’s not unusual to glass a pig that turns out to be a burned out log so when I saw black that is what I assumed. But everything black was a moose, 13 in all, 9 that were bulls. There were two that looked big to me. Tate said I could shoot one of them on Wednesday if we had not found one bigger, and that was two days away.

We left that ridge to glass a new one. There were not as many moose but one looked good a couple miles away. Then Tate got excited. He said the one he could see was enormous. He got out his spotting scope and hooked up a camera so we could see it easier. It was indeed bigger than anything we have seen so far. He was feeding on a nob about a mile and a half away. Initially Tate wanted to wait for him to bed down. But that idea lasted a whole two minutes. He said, “Let’s kill that monster!”

We would not see the moose for the stalk down. We had the wind in our faces. We worked our way down a steep canyon wall. At the base of the wall was a long grove of dead trees that extended at least a mile down the canyon. Just outside of the trees was a game trail that rivaled the lanes of the highways I had used to get to the lodge. I’m five foot, nine inches, at best, and Tate played center for his college basketball team. It took almost two of my strides to match his one. He was pumped up with adrenaline and we made great time.

There were two nobs, one closer to us and one where the moose was. We stopped at the base of the first one and made a plan as we shucked off our jackets and backpacks. We would slowly climb to the top of the first nob, set up the shooting sticks and should have a 100-yard shot. We did exactly as planned, but the moose wasn’t involved in our planning. He was not there. It was comical as Tate and I looked for him then looked at each other. We did not think he had busted us because he could not have seen or smelled us.

Our new plan was to quietly and slowly climb the second nob while looking over both sides to see if he had wandered off. We climbed the second nob as planned, Tate was to my right just forward of me. At 61 years old, you find that you will trip over any little thing — roots of bushes, rocks, blades of grass, you get it. As I walk, I look forward every couple of steps to find those things that can trip me. As I scanned the ground in front of me, I looked up. There was six inches of moose antler over a bush right in front of me. I whispered, firmly, “Tate!” That’s all it took, we both dropped to the ground.

Tate asked me if I was comfortable shooting freehand? I’ve done it but I didn’t want to mess up a shot on possibly my only moose. He quietly set up the shooting sticks. He said to shoot fast as the moose will probably see me. With my adrenaline sky high I squatted behind the shooting sticks, place the muzzle of my rifle on the V of the sticks, took a deep breath and stood up slowly. As I stood I pushed the rifle forward on the sticks, bringing the rifle up to my shoulder, he did look at me as I put my eye to the scope, clicked off my safety and fired. He dropped where he stood. No steps, no running, just dropped dead.

Tate and I cheered. We jumped up and down, fist pumped and high fived. As we walked up to the moose I realized how big he was. Much larger than any elk I have ever harvested. Tate and I oohed and awed. Tate said it was the biggest ever harvested on the ranch — it was 11 by 11. It was much larger than the one over the fireplace at the lodge.

It green scored at 160 inches. After the 90-day drying period required by Boone and Crockett, it measured at 152 7/8 inches, the Idaho state record is 150 inches.

In the firearms industry it seems there is always a “trend” that is accepted as the state of the art for a period of time and then something else will come along and replace it. Right now aluminum bedding blocks seem to be the “trend”. I recently posted our views on the ABB so I won’t get into that today but there is a related trend I think needs to be addressed. “Pillar Bedding” or bedding using aluminum pillars.

First a little history: Many years ago when wood stocks ruled the world there was very few things that would improve the accuracy of a rifle as much as “glass bedding” would. Almost no factory guns came bedded and most shot barely acceptable. Glass bedding usually enhanced the accuracy as well as increased the dependability by limiting the effects of humidity and water which played havoc with point of impact (POI). By using an epoxy based product that was reinforced with some fiberglass, thus the term glass bedding, one could form a much better mating surface between the stock and the receiver. By reducing or eliminating any stresses caused by poorly match surfaces it allowed the rifle to shoot more consistently.

In the benchrest community they found that by torquing both guard screws with a torque wrench they could actually tune the way the gun would shoot. They were constantly checking the toque, between matches and even between groups, and most found that the more they shot the rifle, the more the amount of torque would decrease. They reasoned that the stock must be compressing some due to the pressure and stress associated with shooting. As a result they drilled out the holes around the guard screws to the next larger size (usually from 5/16 to 3/8 or 1/2 inch.) When bedding the action they would allow these larger holes to fill up with bedding material. After removing the screws (of course they waxed them first) they would then drill out the screw hole to 5/16th for some clearance, but that would in effect leave a pillar of 1/16 to 3/16” wall thickness of bedding material. The bedding material was dense and rigid so it made a nice pillar that would keep the stock from compressing under the pressure of 40-60lbs of torque, plus the stress of firing the rifle.

Not long after the pillar bedding process was developed, fiberglass stocks came onto the scene. While benchrest shooters were convinced that pillar bedding had a positive effect on the accuracy of their rifles they assumed that the same process would help to improve accuracy of a fiberglass stocked rifle. The process quickly adapted itself to “glass” stocks.

When Chet Brown and Lee Six first introduced fiberglass stocks to the competitive world in the late ’60’s, they used a process that left the stock with a “foam” core. The stocks were made of fiberglass cloth outer shells with the action area and barrel channels actually molded during the initial process. They would use a low density urethane foam to expand the material from the inside and force it out against the walls of the mold to form the gun stock. As a result between the receiver area and the bottom of the stock (where the guard screws are) there was a foam core. The foam was light weight to keep the weight of the stock within reason and when cured was rigid (unlike polystyrene of foam rubber) but had very little compression strength. In short order it was found that pillars were absolutely required in order to keep from compressing the stock when tightening the guard screws.

As a general rule, the same procedure was used to make the pillars as was used with wood stocks. Simply drill the guard screw holes over size and fill them up with bedding material. The draw back to this technique was that occasionally there would be some excessive shrinkage in the bedding material due to the volume of bedding compound that flowed down around the screws. Though this resulted in a less than perfect job from a cosmetic stand point, it had no adverse effect on the performance of the bedding. When guys like my father and Wally Hart and Fred Sinclair started to take on this type of work for their fellow competitors they felt a need to produce a better looking job and the use of precut aluminum pillars was introduced. More on the technical information on aluminum pillars in Part two.

When Gale McMillan introduced his fiberglass stocks in 1973 they were made in pretty much the same manner as the brown stocks. Urethane foam was a major component and this pillar bedding was a main ingredient in all benchrest stocks he made. Gale only made benchrest stocks for the first two years he was in business. Due to the weight limitations in benchrest, light stocks were a must and the materials used were not nearly as strong as they could have been in a stock weighing much more. Pillar bedding was one way to make up for their lack of strength in the receiver area.

Stay tuned for part two on November 2nd!

The elk, Cervus canadensis (formerly Cervus elaphus canadensis), is one of the largest members of the deer family. Its tracks and sign are similar to those of deer, but think larger hooves, longer strides, larger scat pellets, and look for feeding sign and antler rubs higher on trees. Identifying elk tracks and sign is essential for camera trapping the species and rutting sign is especially useful because animals tend to re-use these spots. The elk in the photo above was captured with a trail camera targeting the antler rub (see below under “rutting behavior”) because the bull was likely to return.

Tracks and trails

As members of the deer family, elk have cloven hooves. Elk tracks are larger than deer tracks and smaller than moose tracks, but overlap in size with both deer and moose tracks. However, elk tracks are noticeably rounder. Front tracks of an adult are about 4 inches long and wide. Hind tracks are smaller and narrower, about 3 1/2 inches long and 3 inches wide. Like deer and moose, elk have 2 dewclaws on each foot, situated higher up on the leg. In soft substrate or when the animal is running, hooves may splay and dewclaws may register.

Elk usually travel in an alternating walk with a step length of 1 1/2 to 3 feet, and a trail width of 7-13 inches. But because they are social animals which travel in groups, you often find a mess of tracks left by multiple animals rather than a nice clear trail pattern of one individual.

Scat

Elk excrete pellets measuring about 3/4 inch by 1/2 inch. Dry forage, commonly consumed in winter, results in discrete pellets. A diet of moist, lush vegetation results in clumped pellets or even pies.

Feeding sign

To find feeding sign, you must know the animal’s diet. In spring and summer, elk feed on grasses, sedges, forbs, aquatic plants, and leaves of trees and shrubs, such as aspens, willows, serviceberry, and chokeberry. In winter they paw through the snow for grass and eat the twigs and bark of trees, especially aspen. Grass makes up a larger portion of the elk’s diet than the deer’s or moose’s diet.

The key to find grazing and browsing sign is ragged ends: Like deer and moose, elk have lower incisors but not upper incisors, so they cannot make clean cuts through plants the way rodents and rabbits can. Instead, they tear vegetation between their lower incisors and the upper hard palate, leaving frayed ends. When consuming bark, they scrape upward with their lower incisors, often leaving frayed bark at the upper end of the scrape.

When you find ungulate feeding sign, consider the height. Deer feeding sign is usually 1-3 feet above the ground, moose sign 3-7 feet off the ground, and elk sign is in between, overlapping with both deer and moose. Snow pack allows each species to reach even higher. Obviously it’s not always possible to determine the species based solely on feeding sign, so look for scat and tracks, as well.

Rutting sign

During the elk rut, spanning September and October in the north and more spread out in the south, bulls thrash and rub their antlers and foreheads on trees and shrubs, leaving behind broken branches, stripped bark, and sometimes hair. They also leave behind scent from their pre-orbital glands, thus communicating with other elk. Conifer saplings are often used, and the rubbed area is usually 2-5 feet above the ground. Bulls also create wallows in moist areas by churning up mud with hooves and/or goring with antlers. He urinates into the scrape and onto his neck and then sits down into the pit and rolls his neck, caking his mane with urine-soaked mud.

Do you have any questions or pointers about finding or identifying elk tracks and sign? Feel free to share in a comment below.

Sources

Elbroch, M. Mammal Tracks & Sign: A Guide to North American Species. Mechanicsburg, PA: Stackpole Books, 2003.Rocky Mountain Elk Foundation: Elk Basics.

Related Posts

White-tailed Deer Scrape ActionMoose Hooves and LegsPronghorn Tracks and Sign

Choosing hunting boots can be a challenge, especially if you’re pressed for time. After all, there are many factors to consider before lacing up a pair of boots, whether it’s for a hunt through rugged terrain or a spring turkey hunt in a field. We’re here to help you narrow down the possibilities with recommendations for boots suited to various purposes. Each has been put to the test in the field. Consider this your one-stop guide for picking out your next pair of hunting boots.

Best Overall Hunting Boot:

Irish Setter Boots Vaprtrek – See Price on Amazon

Vaprtrek boots with a height of eight inches are offered by Irish Setter Boots in both men’s and women’s sizes. After years of using both men’s and women’s Vaprtreks, I can safely say they’re equally comfortable, durable and useful. These boots have 400-gram Primaloft insulation to help keep feet warm—but not too warm. They are made using full-grain leather and ArmaTec XT, an abrasion-resistant, tough material. The boots have a Mossy Oak Break Up Country camouflage exterior to reduce the risk of game animals catching glimpses of movement.

These are the boots to get when you want durable yet fairly lightweight boots for spring or fall hunts. They have an exceptionally long life, even for those of us who hunt heavily. I’ve been so impressed by these boots that I now have a pair in each truck, in the mud room and on my boot rack. They are that versatile and dependable.

Most Versatile Hunting Boots (Best Hunting Boots for multiple terrains)

Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 400 ($514.95) and Kenetrek Mountain Extreme 1000 ($534.95)

This boot style provides a bit of a “two-fer” because it covers both the 400-gram and 1000-gram Thinsulate boots. There’s simply no better boot for truly cold weather or challenging mountain hunts than the Kenetrek Mountain Extremes. These boots are more rigid than lighter-weight boots that are meant for less strenuous hunts. Their rigidity and impressive toughness is very useful when you’re chasing predators or mountain goats. The 400-gram boot is, of course, a bit lighter and not as toasty as the 1000-gram version. However, each has its purpose depending on the temperatures you’re facing.

When you pair the Mountain Extreme with Kenetrek’s Ultimate Liner Lightweight Over-the-Calf Sock, (with or without a heavier boot sock over it), you have the perfect combination for difficult winter hunts. Features of the Kenetrek Mountain Extreme include 10-inch uppers with a one-piece vamp construction tongue. That means there aren’t openings where water or snow can get in. They have double- and even triple-stitching at high-stress points and K-Talon outsoles. Yes, these are heavier boots on your feet than some others, but they are well worth that facet when you’re braving snow and ice. While others in your hunt team are suffering, your feet will be doing great. These boots are made in Italy and they last for quite some time.

Most Comfortable Hunting Boot

Dryshod Evalusion Hi Super Lightweight ($174.95)

The Dryshod Evalusion Hi Super Lightweight Hunting Boot gets the top pick for the most comfortable hunting boot on the market. They have a Dureva technology/compound that eliminates the need for a secondary rubber sole and provides extreme comfort in most any situation. Aside from comfortable it is also an extremely quiet boot due to their multi-lug tread resulting in silent flexing and bending when curving over the ground’s elements. The lugs provide good traction, but are not too aggressive that they pick up and retain mud. This boot maximizes air circulation and prevents moisture builup with its Densoprene Foam that both keeps your foot warm and keeps moisture out.

For those of us who like a rubber boot for the beginning of white tail hunting season, this one comes out on top for several reasons. The insole has a good, supportive arch, making them comfortable to walk long distances without having sore arches. Their 16-inch height makes it easy to ford wet areas or even small streams. The outsole design is wide, giving you a firm support underfoot, and helping to prevent ankle twists when traversing rugged ground. The wide heel sole provides great stability, plus gives a convenient point to grab when you are trying to kick off the boots. The design of the boot upper helps to keep your calf area warm, which in turn keeps your lower foot warm. Yet the shape of the upper hugs your calf just enough to not have the boot “slap” against your shin and back of your calf while walking, and allows a hunter to let rain pants come down over the outside of the boot, rather than tuck them into the upper. Experience has shown they are comfortable in temperatures from 30’s to 60’s. They run true to size, I would recommend buying a half size larger to allow for the use of a good wool sock.

The Dryshod Evalusion comes in Super Lightweight Ankle length and Hi in brown, black, camo, and more. Prices vary from $129.95-$192.39 depending on color and sizing options. Dryshod is known for dependability and durability and this shoe should withstand the test of time and hours spent walking.

Aside from dry, warm, comfortable, and breathable – the shoe is also extremely light making it an easy walk. What keeps it from being best overall is just simply preference. We haven’t found a non-lace shoe that stands up to lace shoes when it comes to those on the go but from a slip-on option this shoe rises to the top.

Best Unisex Hunting Boots and for snaky terrain:

Rocky Prolight Hunting Waterproof Snake Boot ($134.95)

Snake boots are more of an issue in the southern part of the country, but these boots prove useful anywhere across the nation.

The Rocky Prolight Hunting Waterproof Snake Boot is designed for unisex wear. It spans sizes from 4 to 15, medium or wide. (You need to read the size chart to determine men’s sizes, because that’s how Rocky sizes these boots). These boots have 16-inch uppers. Unlike some snake boots, they’re made in lace-up style, which is nice if you prefer to keep your boots secure and keep out more than just snakes.

Mine (female) have served me well in numerous states and have proven to be the correct height for blocking any snakes that are froggy enough to try striking as you walk by. (The worst you might feel from that is a quick bump as they bounce off the boot.) This aspect is especially useful in Texas, where seeing venomous snakes is never a surprise and is always expected. So, when it’s prime snake time, you want these boots.

These boots utilize Rocky’s waterproof system. It’s one that remains breathable, so the boots are able to resist mud and rain, keeping your feet dry. They’re constructed from full-grain leather and nylon, and they have a polyurethane and rubber outsole. With a total weight of about 1.5 pounds, they’re really not excessively bulky, especially when you consider their height. These aren’t awkward or uncomfortable snake boots, either. Do your legs get hot with these? I’d say yes, but not ridiculously so, and that is a small price to pay for protection from our fanged friends. Rocky gives these boots a Mossy Oak Break Up camo outer layer to help them blend in and uses tan leather over the stress points.

Best Hunting Boots for those on the go:

Danner Pronghorn ($246.46)

The Danner Pronghorn boot is produced in men’s sizes, but I’ve found that the sizing works just fine for women, too. That’s not something you can say about all boots, since women do tend to have narrower feet.

These boots are considered the foundation of the company’s hunting boot line-up. They are now in their fifth iteration, which is impressive. Danner Pronghorns are made to keep you comfortable and stable during your hunt—both important elements. These boots are great for deer hunts and any hunt that involves light to moderate hiking. Their 400-gram boots with a GORE-TEX waterproof liner.

Their eight-inch, full-grain leather upper is resistant to wear and also delivers fantastic longevity. The 400-gram PrimaLoft insulation helps keep your feet from getting excessively cold without being too much for warmer weather. These boots also have a Realtree Edge camo pattern, so the colors are great for most terrain. A Vibram midsole cushions feet during the hiking portion of hunts and a TERRA FORCE NEXT platform gives users solid arch support. Danner Pronghorns are excellent boots for hunts, whether you’re chasing feral hogs, whitetail deer, or turkeys. These are the kind of boots that will have you wanting to buy multiple pairs (believe me).

Best Hunting Boots for around the house:

Lacrosse AlphaTerra ($154.65-$170.56 depending on size)

It’s a tossup whether to list the massive benefits of Lacrosse’s muck boots or focus on the AlphaTerra, because this is a company that produces some wonderful mud boots.

We’re focusing on the AlphaTerra because these are the ankle-height boots that should literally live in your truck or by the back door. Who among us hasn’t decided to go on a hunt at the last minute, or forgotten their favorite hunting boots at home? Lacrosse AlphaTerras come in men’s and women’s sizes. The women’s version is currently only offered in black and white. If you’re a woman who wants camo or boots that don’t have high-visibility strips of white, you may want to stick to men’s sizes.

The Mossy Oak Bottomland-patterned AlphaTerra has a six-inch height. It’s a one-piece, pull-on boot with no laces or buckles, although it does have a zipper closure on the side. They’re made from rubber and insulated neoprene with an EVA midsole. They offer stellar water protection (as long as you remember their shorter height). These boots also make wonderful transition boots between a muddy field and home, or from a hunt to your kid’s soccer practice. They’re comfortable enough to wear just about anywhere and they are also a lot easier to clean than many other boots. For those of us who have a tendency to wear hunting boots more often than not, the Lacrosse AlphaTerra is a nice option that doesn’t quite scream, “I’d rather be in the woods,” and manages to look and serve as a functional, useful shorter boot.

Best Hunting Boots for Muddy Terrain:

Frogg Toggs Ridge Buster Mud Boot ($68.13-$169.99 Depending on Size and Color)

The Frogg Toggs Ridge Buster Mud Boot makes the list for best muddy terrain but could almost make it for its cold weather applications as well (depending on which Thinsulate you choose on the 600/1200 options). Although it’s a higher boot it boasts all day comfort and has the option as mentioned above to be a warm boot (1200g thinsulate) or a breathable boot (600g thinsulate) for the springtime mud hunts.

These boots come available in Mossy Oak, RealTree Edge, Brown, and RealTree Timber. There are available options as a Mud Boot, a Knee Boot, and a Lite Mid Boot. and they make both men and women’s models. Frogg Toggs is a brand you can trust with excellent customer service and response should you need it. Their boots are durable, dependable, and made for most any conditions – including fishing boots as well!

As the sportsmen and women in the state of Vermont looked to the beginning of a new decade in January 2010, none of them could imagine the event awaiting to unfold: a massive buck from Vermont’s past was about to overtake the top spot in the Vermont Big Game Trophy Club’s non-typical category. The groundwork was laid some 70 years prior in Vermont’s Northeast Kingdom by a man who was proud of his hunting heritage and the tradition of a family deer camp.

It was January 16, 2010, that I prepared to go to work at the 18th annual Yankee Sportsman’s Classic. I had decided that it would be an opportune time to bring in the rack from a buck that my great grandfather had harvested in Norton, Vermont, back in 1938. The timing couldn’t have been better, as I would be working at the Pelkey’s Archery booth directly across the aisle from the VBGTC. I planned to just drop it off in the morning and pick it up at the end of the day. This would be easy, or so I thought.

On my way into the facility I ran into Peter Porter, a measurer for the VBGTC. Porter’s eyes lit up like a kid at Christmas and he quickly stated, “I’m measuring this one!” It was 8:30 a.m. and he went right to work measuring and recording while I went back across the aisle to talk with show goers about the new 2010 bowhunting equipment. As I worked, I couldn’t help but notice there always seemed to be a group of onlookers around Porter and the rack. Interest from show participants was growing.

Towards the end of the measurement process Porter had determined that it was, at minimum, a Boone and Crockett-caliber buck. He came across the aisle to get me, and he had also called in Ron Boucher, a master measurer for the VBGTC, as well as an official measurer for the Boone and Crockett Club. As Boucher and Porter discreetly discussed the rack, at no point did either one of them mention any of the actual measurements from the big rack. Boucher examined the rack, reviewed Porter’s measurements, and then pulled me aside away from the crowd. “You’ve got something special here,” Boucher explained to me. “With your permission I’d like to take the rack to one of the side rooms away from all this commotion to measure it.” I willingly agreed to his request and as Boucher disappeared into the crowd with the rack, I couldn’t help thinking to myself, “Well, this is getting interesting. . . .”

AN UNLIKELY STATE RECORDWhile Boucher was away with the rack, I had a constant flow of people stopping by to ask if I had heard anything about the final score. I was amazed at all of the attention that this Vermont deer was getting. A couple of long hours later Boucher emerged with the rack, but still no news on the results. After another half hour or so of anxious wondering, I decided that I should head across the aisle and see what was going on. As I approached the VBGTC booth I was quickly greeted by Boucher with the words, “We’re close to being able to tell you, but we are going through the math one more time.”

As I went on my way, allowing the measurers more time, it had still never crossed my mind that my great grandfather could have harvested a potential Vermont state record. The day continued to tick by as I went about my business, occasionally pausing to wonder why I hadn’t heard anything from the VBGTC Measurers. It was nearly 2 p.m. – almost five and a half hours after Peter started measuring – when it happened: As I was talking to an outfitter about a potential future hunt, a friend came up to me and said, “The Foundation is looking for you!” My immediate response was, “The Foundation? What Foundation?” and he quickly explained that the guys from VBGTC were looking for me.

As my friend and I worked our way back through the crowd on our way to the booth, I quizzed him on what he knew. “They’re not telling anyone anything,” he said, “They are just asking to speak with you.” When I got to the booth Boucher pulled me aside and took the time to explain the entire process of what had just transpired, without any specific numbers. He then spoke the words that I will never forget: “I didn’t want anyone else to know until I talked to you, but your great grandfather’s buck is the new State of Vermont non-typical record. It scored 196 5/8.”

I was speechless. I was completely caught off guard, literally without words. I’m quite sure that I didn’t hear – and certainly can’t remember now – much of anything that people said to me after that point. I just kept thinking to myself, “Great grandpa shot a state-record buck hunting out of the family camp!”

THE MILK HOUSEThat day at the show people quickly began to call the deer “The Milk House Buck.” This stemmed from the fact that before the day the rack was entrusted to me it had been stored for years in an old milk house. I choose to call it “The Tice Buck” out of the respect I have for my great grandfather and the hunting tradition in our family. Deer hunting has always been important to the Tice family, a valued tradition and a great part of our family heritage. To think that an unassuming man participating in an annual ritual, a pursuit for which he contained such unrestrained passion, had yielded such a monumental trophy was simply overwhelming, and I couldn’t help but think about the man I’d heard so much about during my lifetime.

My great-grandfather, George Ira Tice, was born January 18, 1899. George was a lifelong resident of Holland, Vermont, a carpenter by trade, a devoted family man and the father of 10 children. George was also a fervent reader and relatives recall seeing George in the living room of his home with his foot up on the marble table reading for hours on end. Yet what people remember most about George is that he was a passionate outdoorsman, with an unquenchable thirst for hunting. He purchased his first hunting license in 1911 at the age of 12 and was so proud of that moment that he saved that license his entire life and is still in the family today.

George was not a man who was content sitting idly about, waiting for the next deer season. One of his more unique outdoor activities was “bee lining.” When I first heard the expression I was curious as to what this entailed. Bee lining is the practice of catching

wild honeybees and then following them back to their hive. Once the hive is found, it is marked and at the end of the summer the honey and the wax are harvested.

George was also an avid fisherman and enjoyed all types of fishing, his favorite style being brook fishing. The family camp is surrounded by pristine brooks that were then full of native Vermont brook trout. It’s safe to say that while George fished the brooks, he was always thinking about, scouting for and planning for the upcoming deer hunting season.

DEER CAMP TRADITIONThe Tice camp located in Norton, Vermont, started its useful life as a bunkhouse and office for logging crews. When the logging operation abandoned the building in the early 1900s, George turned the building into a hunting camp. In the mid 1940s he added a kitchen area to the camp and the camp has remained unchanged to this day. The Northeast Kingdom is a very rural portion of the state with large tracts of wooded land abundant with spruce and fir trees, cedar swamps, and high ridges of hardwood timber. Most hunters that call these woods home are trackers. The expansive woods and the low concentration of deer require an intimate knowledge of the woods and the deer’s habits. The ability to pick up a track and determine if it is a deer worth following is a crucial skill and a mark of pride.

George was so dedicated to his deer hunting that family members who had the privilege of knowing him cannot remember a time that he missed an entire hunting season at camp and can only recall twice when he left hunting camp before the season’s end. The first time was when he had sent his hunting boots back to L.L. Bean to get re-topped prior to deer season. The boots weren’t back when he left for camp, so part way through the season he had to leave to get his boots. The second time that he left hunting camp was for the birth of his youngest son, Earl.

George’s eldest son, Robert, recalls his father building a two-wheeled cart to pull supplies into camp, as getting to and from camp was not the easiest of chores. There was not always a graveled road that passed by the camp as there is today. Robert cannot remember a time that his father did not go to camp or into the woods without his favorite rifle, a Winchester Model 1907 .351 Self Loader. This is the very gun that George shot “The Tice Buck” with. Robert remembers that when George switched his cartridge loads over to smokeless powder that the gun began to malfunction and would no longer eject the casings. While the family did make an effort to get the rifle repaired, the attempt was unsuccessful and unfortunately this gun is no longer in the family.

FAMILY HEIRLOOMWhen George harvested the “The Tice Buck” in November of 1938 he was hunting with his friend and hunting partner, Burt Gray. Those who recall George telling the story of the hunt note that he always commented on how deep the snow was that year. George kept the buck’s rack in the living room on a wall between the wood stove and the entrance way and it remained on that wall for the remainder of George’s life, and after his death in 1965, his wife, Ethel, kept the rack in the very spot where George had hung it. When Ethel passed away in 1971, Robert and his wife, Joan, moved the rack to their house in Derby, Vermont. Robert and Joan kept the rack in their basement until lack of space and a repair project required that the rack be moved out of the basement and into the old milk house.

In 2005 while visiting Robert and Joan they bestowed on me one of the greatest honors of my life: they passed on the guardianship of the rack to me.

Over the past five years the rack has been a prominent fixture in my archery room. While working on bows I had often wondered what the rack would score but never could I imagine the recent events.

Robert, Joan, and I are all avid hunters and understand the importance of maintaining and preserving the antlers within the Tice family. Deer hunting is a longstanding tradition in our family and this trophy, a family heirloom, will be a constant reminder of the great hunters that came before us.

A VERMONT RECORDIn the end, the rack earned a gross score of 196 5/8 inches and a net score of 190 6/8 inches. The main beam lengths are 28 3/8 inches on the right and 27 4/8 inches on the left. It has an inside spread of 22 6/8 inches, an amazing outside spread of 29 0/8 inches, along with circumferences as high as 6 1/8 inches. This buck and my great-grandfather will now get the recognition that they both deserve. I have started the recording process for the Boone and Crockett Club, The Northeast Big Bucks Club, and the Vermont Big Game Trophy Club.

I can’t help but wonder how many hunters, in search of their own trophy buck, drove by this rack hanging in an old outbuilding next to a well-traveled state road? The fact that the rack remained unmarred hanging there in an outbuilding, that even the smallest of gnawing creatures might have acknowledged the majesty in the monarch’s crown, I think is remarkable, as is the idea that there were no rumors across the state of the rack and no one other than family and a few close friends even knew of its existence. When I think of these antlers in that little building, a Vermont State record, one word comes to mind: Astonishing!

Beretta M9A1 vs Beretta 92A1: Is One Better? Is There Even A Difference?

If you’re looking for a big double-stack but won’t have a darn thing to do with tactical Tupperware, two guns you might wind up considering are the Beretta 92A1 vs. M9A1. You might further ponder just what the heck the difference actually is…and if it’s worth paying for.

There are some differences, but they’re subtle; there’s nothing overwhelmingly different about one compared to the other. However, the differences that are there might add up for some people.

Beretta 92A1 Is Actually A Detuned 96

What you don’t know from looking at the two pistols is that the Beretta 92A1 is not an upgraded trim level of the Beretta 92FS, Beretta’s classic Wonder Nine. It’s actually a toned-down Beretta 96.

The Beretta 96 is a Beretta 92 that’s been overbuilt a bit in order to accommodate the .40 S&W round instead of 9mm Parabellum, the typical chambering. If you were to look at the internals of the slide, you’d see a buffer in the frame (it’ll run +P without issue) and a thicker nose in the 92A1 compared to the 92FS or the M9 family. Essentially, a Beretta 96A1 converted to 9mm.

Another difference from the standard 92FS is the 92A1 is railed, with a Picatinny rail machined into the dust cover. It has a fully rounded trigger guard in lieu of the classic Beretta trigger guard shape and comes with white 3-dot sights as standard, though you can swap them for night sights or fiber optics as both front and rear sights are dovetailed. The recoil spring, for those who get hung up on this aspect, is fully captured.

As for the measurements, you get 4.9 inches of falling-block barrel. The gun stands 5.4 inches tall, 8.5 inches long and 1.5 inches wide, weighing 33.3 ounces unloaded…but then again you knew this thing was a brick. One of the party pieces is that it accepts 17-round magazines, two more than the standard 92.

So…it’s big, it’s bulky, but it capacity is substantial, the gun is if anything overbuilt. This is a gun you can count on to save your bacon, anywhere and everywhere, all day every day, with a bit of care. MSRP is $775, which isn’t terrible considering this gun will probably last the rest of your life.

Beretta M9A1: Marine Corps Cooked Up A Classic

The Beretta M9A1 is an upgraded Beretta M9. The upgrade came about after the US Marine Corps found a number of shortcomings with the standard issue M9 and told Beretta what they’d like changed.

First was adding a mil-standard Picatinny rail, with a longitudinal channel cut through the middle of the rail. The magazine well is beveled, for more reliable reloads. The frontstrap and backstrap of the grips are checkered, for a better grip, and a thinner trigger guard for easier one-handed operation.

Sights are three dot, and the controls are ambidextrous decocking safety levers. The standard magazines are coated with physical vapor deposits (PVD) for more reliable operation in desert environments, though the M9A1 ships with 15-round boxes rather than 17. The M9A3, however, does come with the 17-round magazines. The recoil spring is not, however, fully captured.

The tale of the tape? The only differences are the M9A1 weighs 33.9 ounces, and lists for $750 MSRP. Otherwise, everything else is the same.

Beretta 92A1 vs M9A1: Do The Differences Matter That Much?

There are only a few differences between the Beretta 92A1 vs M9A1. First, the 92A1 is built a little thicker in places. The 92A1 has a rounded trigger guard, almost reminiscent of the 1911. The M9A1 has the classic Beretta trigger guard, albeit a touch thinner.

The rail on the 92A1 is different, in that it doesn’t have the longitudinal channel through the middle of the rail. The 92A1 lacks the beveled magazine well and ships with 17-round magazines. The M9A1, however, has more aggressive grip texturing. You can upgrade front and rear sights on the 92A1, but only the rear sights on the M9A1 without needing a machine shop.

Thing about the 92 platform is that it isn’t the best carry gun compared to most other popular pistols for that purpose like, say, a Glock 19 or M&P Shield. You can, of course, and some do…but most people wouldn’t. Really, a person gets a 92-platform pistol as a home defense gun, truck gun or something like that. Either gun will excel. They are accurate, they are reliable and plenty of people have and currently do bet their lives on them.

That said, the 92A1 has a bit more in terms of features. If you’re the sort that upgrades sights as a matter of course…it’s the gun for you, but carry holsters will be a little rarer because of the rounded trigger guard. Either way…you get an absolute hoss of a gun.

Have you shot these firearms? What did you like, and what didn’t you?Let us know in the comments below!

Above are some of the old school concrete block pits at Jackie Hite’s Bar-B-Q in Batesburg-Leesville, SC. Below are plans for building your own no-frills pit suitable for a butterflied 75 pound hog, enough to feed about 35 people. It is designed so it can be a temporary structure or you can make it permanent. If you cut the head and remove the trotters at the knees and elbows, you can fit a 100 pounder or more on this rig. But don’t throw away the head and trotters. Just place them on the stretcher next to the torso. If you plan on cooking larger hogs, you can scale this plan up. You must cook with indirect heat. Click here for instructions on how to prep and cook the hog.

Materials

• SIDES: 54 concrete blocks 16″ x 8″ x 8″ (actually 15.75 x 7.75 x 7.75″). This will get your hog 32 ” above the embers, plus a course to hold the lid. Cost about $54.
• LID: 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood, cut down to about 44 x 60″ for the lid. Note that Hite uses sheets of cardboard for his lids as seen in the photo above, but I strongly advise against this. He is a master of fire control, and if yours burn, they could ruin the hog. And then you have no lid. Cost about $10. Usually the lid will not be a tight fit. If it is you can crack it open with a stone or make a vent by cutting a hole in it.
• HEAT SHIELD: Half of a 4 x 8′ sheet of 1/4″ plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for the optional heat shield. Cost about $10.
• PROTECTION: 2 rolls heavy duty aluminum foil. Cost about $30.
• COOKING GRATE: 4 lengths of 48″ each of 3/8″ rebar. You can use a sheet of expanded metal rather than rebar if you wish. Cost about $5 per 10′ bar, 3 bars needed.
• STRETCHER: Non-climbable uncoated fence wire or rabbit wire at least 14 gauge, 46 x 72″. Do not use galvanized metal because it can give off noxious gases. Cost about $30 for a 50′ roll.
• STRETCHER HANDLES: 2 boards 1″ x 2″ x 6′ each. Cost about $2.
• STRETCHER HANDLES: 100 bare wire loop ties, 6″ each. Cost about $2.50.
• DAMPERS: 2 pieces lightweight sheet metal, about 20″ x 10″ each or you can use sheet pans. They will go over the openings in the sides to help you control oxygen to the coals if it runs too hot. Cost about $15.

Optional

• More rebar to pound from the top down into the ground to prevent the blocks from shifting. Cost about $15.
• Mortar to lock the blocks permanently into place. Cost about $10.
• Lightweight sheet metal for the lid, about 44 x 60″. Cost about $30.
• Lightweight sheet metal for the heat shield, about 30 x 48″. Cost about $30.
• 20 bags (40 pounds each) premix concrete for a 3″ thick slab FOR THE BASE AND BOTTOM. Cost about $40.

Tools

• Fire extinguisher.
• Wire cutter.
• Level.
• Hack saw.
• Hammer.
• Chisel.
• Utility stapler and plenty of staples.
• Wheel barrow, steel drum, or charcoal grill to start coals.
• Shovel.
• Garden hose or buckets of water or fire extinguisher.
• Good digital oven thermometer.

About the pit

Keep the pit at least 10′ from buildings and overhanging trees in case there is a grease fire. Keep a fire extinguisher rated for grease on hand. Fire extinguishers rated ABC can handle most everything except combustible metals. Beware, they contain a yellow powder that can damage electrical devices.

Start by clearing a base that is 4′ x 5′ by removing grass and prepare an all dirt or sand base at least 2″ thick. You will need to discard some of it when you are done because fat and meat drippings may get in the dirt. The dogs will roll in it and it will attract insects, mice, you name it. If needed, you can buy sand at a hardware store. I recommend lining the pit with aluminum foil.

Make sure the ground is level. Stack the concrete blocks 4 rows high, 3 full lengths and then turn one block on each course, staggering the blocks so they overlap as in the illustration. Notice that I have left out a block on the head and tail side so you can add coals and wood and rake them around. Cover these wholes with a board and a concrete block when they are not in use.

Make notches in the blocks with a hammer and chisel deep enough to hold the rebar so the next course of blocks will lie flat on the course below. Put the rebar on top of the fourth course of blocks. Don’t put the top course of blocks on yet.

The stretcher

To carry the hog and hold it in place on the pit, you need to build a stretcher. It is two poles for the stretcher bearers on either side, and a wire mesh sling in between for the hog. Non-climbable fence wire is heavier gauge and sturdier than chicken wire. You can use chicken wire for but it would be a good idea to use two layers. Make sure the wire is not coated with plastic. For something more permanent, use heavy duty expanded metal mesh. Do not use galvanized, it can create toxins.

Make the sling of the wire wide enough to rest on the rebar and hang over the edges of the pit by at least 1′ on either side. Attach two 6′ lengths of 1″ x 2″ boards for handles with staples and reinforce them with the wire loop ties. Then lay another section of mesh over the top of the first and fasten it to one of the handles, but leave the other open. Attach a handle to the open edge. You then have a reversible stretcher so you can flip the hog.

About the heat shield

I specified a sheet of plywood cut down to 20 x 36″ for an optional heat shield. If you bank your coals to the sides and corners properly you may not need it, but I recommend you have it on hand in case something starts to burn or overcook. This goes on top of the rebar and beneath the stretcher to shield the hog from direct heat. This size leaves space between the shield and the inside of the pit so hot air can rise alongside the shield and bounce off the lid. You will remove it late in the cook when it is time to crisp the skin. Wrap it in aluminum foil and staple down the foil. Don’t worry, it won’t burn unless you have a grease fire because the pig-sitter fell asleep or spent too much time in the toilet. If the pit is to be a permanent structure, make your heat shield from sheet metal, preferably aluminum because it won’t rust.

The cover

Cover the bottom of the plywood lid with foil. If you wish, you can use a sheet metal top instead of plywood.

Other designs for whole hog cookers from readers

Here’s the “Hog Cabin” built by Jacob Hanson of Tucson, AZ. Notice the innovation : He used half width blocks along the sides and put scalloped garden edging to hold the rebar. He also put an access door with an angle iron header. The wood frame holds a removable pitched roof, not shown.

James Brownfield of Kansas City built this beauty from concrete blocks. On the left is the hog pit and on the right he tacked on a separate vertical smoker. The hog pit side is a little larger than my design: 66″ long (4 blocks), 47″ wide (3 blocks) and 35″ tall (4 blocks) with a 2″ top cap. The interior measures 52″ long by 32″ wide. The cooking grate is 20″ above the coals and he has another grate 10″ under the cooking grate on which he can cover with foil and/or cheap catering pans to catch the grease. Both grates are simply expanded metal that rest on rebar. There’s some pretty nifty metalwork for the pit top, chimney, doors, and smoker shelving. The whole shebang sits on a concrete slab he poured.

Carl Herbert built this pit. The insert shows the access door on the other side.

From Jim S. This guy built a simple quick and dirty pit, below.

David Wm. Reed of Texas A&M has a good article on roasting cochon au lait, French for suckling pig, and a novel design for a pig roaster with the hog hanging by his hind legs.