If you are like most people, you have probably heard the term “ten-point buck” but may not know exactly what it refers to.

In this post, we’ll explore the origins and definition of the term “ten-point buck.” We’ll also provide some tips on how to identify one if you happen to come across one while hunting. Stay tuned!

WHAT DO POINTS ON A BUCK MEAN IN HUNTING?

When discussing “points” in hunting, they are referring to the tips of each piece that is over an inch long.

You may hear everything from spikes (one point), two points, or six-point – ten points being even bigger than those smaller ones! But what does it all mean? It means using the points as a benchmark to describe the quality of the deer.

The anatomy of a Whitetail’s antlers is made up of the following:

• Burr or pedicle
• Brow tine
• Main beam
• Non-typicals

The classification and scoring of a Whitetail’s antlers are done by using the more common Boone and Crockett method. This method uses a combination of letters and numbers, more specifically the letters “H” and “G” and numbers 1 to 8.

Gs – These are used to name the normal antler points on a buck. G1 refers to the brow tine on a Whitetail as that is the first point, then G2 for the next point, and so on. It is important to note that the point on the main beam of a buck is not assigned the letter G although it is considered a point.

Hs – The H is used to measure the circumference of the antlers on a Whitetail. There are only four H measuring areas on a Whitetail’s antlers and regardless of the number of points it has, there will only be four Hs.

WHAT IS A 10-POINT BUCK?

As we stated above, in the Boone and Crockett method of scoring, a 10-point buck is simply a deer with 5 points on each side of its rack. These points can be any size, as long as they are over an inch long.

HOW OLD IS A 10-POINT BUCK?

The age of a 10-point buck can vary. If the deer is a yearling, it will likely have 8 or 9 points. A 2.5-year-old deer will typically have 10 points, and a 3.5-year-old deer will have 11 or 12 points. bucks typically reach their full antler potential at 4.5 years old, at which point they will have the potential to grow up to 15 points.

(For more on the best spring air rifles, see this post)

IS A 10-POINT DEER GOOD?

The answer to this question is subjective. Some hunters prefer to hunt bucks with large antlers, while others are more interested in the meat. Ultimately, it’s up to the individual hunter to decide what they consider to be a “good” deer.

How Big Is a 10-Point Buck?

The size of a 10-point buck can vary depending on the age and health of the deer. A yearling buck is typically around 3 feet tall at the shoulder, while an adult buck can be up to 4.5 feet tall. An adult buck will also weigh more than a yearling, with males averaging between 150 and 250 pounds.

HOW TO SEE A TEN-POINT BUCK?

Although ten-point bucks can be found in many parts of the United States, they are most commonly seen in the Midwest and southeastern states. If you’re hoping to catch a glimpse of one of these deer, your best bet is to head to a state like Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Ohio, or Pennsylvania during the fall hunting season.

(How Long Do Squirrels Live? See this post for more)

TIPS FOR IDENTIFYING A 10-POINT BUCK

Now that you know what a 10-point buck is, you’re probably wondering how you can identify one if you come across one while hunting. Here are a few tips:

Look for a deer with ten points on its antlers. This is the most obvious way to identify a ten-point buck.

Measure the length of the deer’s antlers. If the antlers are at least ten inches long, you may be looking at a ten-point buck.

Check the size of the points. If the points are large and evenly spaced, you may be looking at a ten-point buck.

Look for other signs of a ten-point buck. These include large body sizes, thick necks, and heavy antlers.

Conclusion

To sum up, if you do come across a 10-point buck, be sure to take the time to identify it properly before taking a shot. Happy hunting!

A native of New Jersey, this taxonomic relict dates back to 250 million years.

I must admit, as a kid I enjoyed playing in the mud with my older brother way too much. Little did I know, that as an adult I would find myself still reveling in that joyous childhood pleasure.

Ironically, some of my favorite fishing adventures occur in the muddiest and swampiest places that I could explore here in South Jersey. Previously, I had become quite addicted to catching monster northern snakeheads. At the time I never thought that I would find another species that would match that kind of adrenaline rush or that would thrive in such a murky, mysterious environment.

It’s a fish with as many monikers as Satan himself, and a hell-raising disposition to match. Mudfish, mud pike, dogfish, grinnel, and cypress trout, are just some of the names they are known as in different parts of the country. I had heard of them as bowfin, but never once encountered these singular beasts even though they were surely in some of the waterways where I had cast my line many times over when scouting for other, more familiar species.

It just goes to show that they have a knack for hiding in plain sight.

Where one might be inclined to cast far out in open water, bowfin could be lingering on the shallow bank underbrush submerged in the muck right at your feet. This king of the swamp really knows how to get down and dirty. Perhaps that is how they have survived for millions of years, because of their amazing ability to lay low.

A Prehistoric Native

Amia calva, yet another more formal name, date way back to the Jurassic period and their fossils have indicated that they were once widespread across North and South America, Europe, Asia, and Africa. These fish are the only surviving member of a prehistoric family of fish known as the order Amliformes. They are thought of as a highly-evolved primitive fish given that they’ve not changed much from their earliest ancestors. I’d say they must have gotten something right to have outlasted the dinosaurs. Today their population is not as widespread as it once was and is limited to the eastern part of the United States, Southern Canada, and several rivers flowing from the Eastern Seaboard or Gulf of Mexico.

Bowfin are related to gar and share their fantastic trait of being air breathers. A swim bladder serves as both a float for buoyancy and as a crude lung. The primitive lung makes it possible for bowfin to survive in poorly oxygenated water and also helps them endure extended periods of time out of the water. Another species that shares this same quality is the snakehead, a fish often confused with the bowfin in appearance. But bowfin are native to our area and have been for millions of years, where the northern snakehead is believed to have been introduced in the past decade or so.

Northern snakeheads are considered invasive and it is recommended that they be destroyed when caught. Sadly many bowfin are erroneously killed when an angler does not spot the differences between the two fish. Key differences that set the bowfin apart from the snakehead are a black eye spot (in males) located on the narrow part of their body where their tail fin is attached, a shorter anal fin, a solid tan or olive coloration, a rounded head, and an upper jaw that protrudes past their lower jaw.

Bowfin have gotten a bad reputation for allegedly having a negative impact on the environment. It is feared by some that the aggressive fish take over waterways and devour popular gamefish or simply out-compete them for food stunting their populations. It seems strange to be thinking this of a fish that has been here for millions of years. The developing attitude towards these fish is similar to the truly invasive snakehead. Perhaps their all too similar traits are responsible for this shift in opinion.

We ourselves are not without blame for having a negative impact on the environment. The use of herbicides to clear vegetation for boats could pose just as much of a threat to the habitats of juvenile fish. Still, there are some studies that have been positive for this species, pointing out that bowfin are actually indicative of a thriving habitat.

Spring & Summer Target

These fish spawn in early spring or early summer, typically when the water temperatures reach a steady 60 to 65 degrees. This is the very best time to catch them in numbers. The males make the spawning beds over sand bars, under stumps, logs or bushes in depths of up to 3 feet of water. The males also sport a vibrant lime green coloration on their fins, underbelly, and on the inside of their mouths at this time. The females can produce up to 5,000 eggs, which the males will guard until the fry reach about 2 to 3 inches in length.

These cylindrical fish are ambush predators and can be caught on many of the same lures and baits used for bass. The gear that I use does not differ from anything that I would use for bass fishing. You can use either a spinning or a casting rod. I use a sturdy 6-1/2-foot medium/heavy spinning rod loaded with 30-pound braid. Braid is a must because these fish have very sharp teeth. In fact, you could find using a wire leader to be a wise choice. I just check my line for frays after I catch a couple, and if the line looks sketchy I re-tie lures or hooks as needed.

I prefer to use a reel that is sealed such as the Penn Fierce 3000 spinning reel because it doesn’t mind getting dirty or being beat on by these beastly fish. A strong super line 4/0 hook is definitely necessary when you are using bait. These bruisers can easily bend a standard hook wide open. Using cut bait has no doubt been my most successful choice for catching bowfin. It is said that their sense of smell is much greater than their sight, makes sense for a fish that thrives in stained water. I have also used shrimp and imitation crab meat with great success. When fishing cut or live bait I prefer to attach a bobber, but you certainly could fish bottom on the same rig you would use for catfish.

I find the bobber method to be more productive because you really know the moment they take the bait. Give them a few seconds swimming with it and hit them hard on the hookset. Their heads are extremely bony, and you have to really sink that hook to keep them on.

One major thing I have noticed when fishing for bowfin is that they do not spook as easily as your typical gamefish. I don’t know if it is because of their temperament, the spawn, or simply that they are not as targeted as other more sought after fish. It is pretty awesome though. So if you miss a fish on a cast, don’t worry. Let the bait sit for a minute or recast it back out to the same spot. Most of the bowfin that I have encountered have hit again, multiple times.

As far as lures, top water frogs and spinners have worked for me. The level of vegetation usually dictates which one is the better choice. Work the banks, around stumps, or under bushes. Often you will see a v-shaped wake come charging your lure.

Battle Tested Bruisers

Their ability to breathe air is very useful in the heat of summer when oxygen levels are low in the water. When they need to replenish their oxygen, they surface, release depleted oxygen through their gills and gulp a fresh supply of air through their mouths. It is a telltale sign as to where they are, so when you see a swirl cast a little past it and reel in. Jigging is also a good method to entice a bite.

Some people consider this species to be a “trash fish” but they can give a better fight than many of the popular gamefish. Pound-for-pound these fish are one of the most extreme fighters I have hooked in freshwater. I can definitely understand how someone might get annoyed if they aren’t expecting this kind of bite. Bowfin can really mangle your favorite lure or snap it off altogether.

The intense tug of war that ensues after hooking into one of these prehistoric beasts reminds me of the fierce battle that you would get with a northern snakehead. The sheer power of this predator is amazing and they never seem to tire. Both fish are agile as they torpedo through the water on the other end of your line. Snakeheads seem to be more acrobatic and can leap out of the water trying to throw the hook, whereas bowfin tend to have a more bulldog approach and dig straight for the sanctity of the bottom or underbrush to escape. You will have to play these fish diligently to land them, but as you pull them in you will see that they just don’t stop trying to free themselves. They often go into a death roll much like a crocodile.

Removing the hook from these toothy critters can be intimidating. A lip gripper and pliers are must have gear to get the job done. They tend to continue to thrash violently on the gripper; safely lay them down to avoid hurting them or yourself. Catch, photo, and release them as quickly as possible so you can get back out there and catch another. Most likely there will be more fish in the vicinity.

If you don’t have any idea where to begin to locate populations of these fish, take a little time and scout some swampy tidal waterways that you may have bypassed for the beaten path. They prefer well vegetated areas with little or no current. You may find yourself catching northern snakeheads in these same areas as well. Make your own adventure and find those hidden living fossils.

These prehistoric fish are a must catch for any avid fisherman; add them to your list. You might get a little dirty, but you’ll have so much fun doing it.

In my younger years, one of my favorite things to do was plop down on a Saturday morning and watch hunting shows with my dad. These guys made it look so easy. It was the same hunters, too, might I add. Time after time, year after year, bucks, bulls and whatever else they were hunting would hit the ground. I felt the same way about flipping through hunting magazines. The same faces graced the pages with each lap the earth took around the sun. Grins from ear to ear sitting behind a set of giant antlers. And, again, I noticed the same pattern on hunting forums and social media. For some reason, it is the same exact people every season filling tags. The old saying goes, “10% of the hunters kill 100% of the game.” I accepted that as truth, but questioned how to become part of that 10%. Were they all just that lucky? I’m a far stretch away from a master, but I’ve managed to maintain a consistency throughout the years with filling tags. I’ve also had the pleasure of observing “the how” of very successful hunters around me. There are no doubt some commonalities I’ve noticed among the “lucky” 10%.

They are relentless

My first years of learning to bear hunt here in Arizona were rough to say the least. I just couldn’t crack the code on these things. So, when a bear hunting mentor of mine offered to come out scouting with me, my truck door flew open for him so fast it dang near came off the hinges. Before that, though, he said, “Meet me at this gas station at 1 a.m.” I’m no stranger to getting up early, but that was next level early or I guess it could be called late at that point. We found a great bear that morning though and that’s when everything started to click for me. This guy was one of the most successful hunters I knew and now it was apparent why.

Nothing is too far and no alarm is too early. The boundaries that most hunters put up are nonexistent among the 10%. I’ve noticed that all of them have a no quit, whatever it takes attitude. If the only way to effectively hunt an area is to hike three hours in the dark before light, then that’s what they do. If an animal is a 45 minute hike away and there is an hour left of light, guess what? They’re making a run for it. I’ve also noticed that most hunters indeed know this stuff. They know what it would take to kill that animal. However, what separates the 10% from them is the 10% are willing to actually do these things and much more. They are relentless and there is no stopping them.

A mind built of steel

Tough hunts have a way of eating away at someone. The day after day grind of no animals, bad weather, hunting pressure, etc., can become all too frustrating. And I can guarantee that every season I’ll witness someone throwing in the towel for one of those reasons or similar ones. Which is a shame really. This thing that we look forward to so much being tossed at the wayside because the hunt wasn’t as smooth as we envisioned. Things are rarely perfect on hunts and tags aren’t going to be filled sitting at home. When that 10% becomes submerged in a pool of adversity is where they really shine. Mental fortitude is a value that is rich among them. They know how quickly things can change and, by merely being present, they are opening themselves up for opportunity. These hunters know how to take a hit and run with it. Which brings me to my next point.

Failure is their friend

With my headlamp bouncing up and down through the high desert of Arizona, I had a smile on my face. I had just experienced the best day of bear hunting ever and while there were arrows missing from my quiver, my backpack was squeaky clean. My arrows indeed took a one way trip to the danger zone, but never connected. Nonetheless, the numerous lessons I learned that evening was worth much more than just my arrow zipping through the lungs of a bear. Don’t get me wrong: that would have provided some much appreciated instant gratification. However, the lessons are part of the long game and are equally appreciated.

If there is just one thing that all of these consistently successful hunters have in common, it’s that they’ve all failed beyond belief in the field. What differentiates them from the rest is that they’ve learned how to take their failures and look at them more as lessons instead of something negative. Failure is often looked at as a bad thing, but in all reality it puts you that much closer to success. Whether it’s missing a shot or blowing a stalk, you just learned something valuable that you didn’t know beforehand. In these moments, genuine gold nuggets of information are bestowed upon us. These are things that we can only learn from being in the moment, in the field. So, no matter how bent you might be about messing up, recognize where you fell short, but let it shine light on what you can do right next time. Failure is a friend, not an enemy.

Preparation meets opportunity

You see it every day. I’m sure you do as your thumb effortlessly glides across the screen of your phone. Some hunters out there are hitting the ground running literally every day in preparation for their hunts. Whether it’s shooting, training or scouting, they’re committed to the game that they play and have every intention of winning it. And, as we’ve established, quite often they do. While some might think it’s for attention on social media, this hunting preparation is far from that. These folks know how stacked the deck is against them and are trying to mitigate that at every turn. Instead of waiting to get lucky, they make their own luck through unwavering effort and dedication. A professional fighter doesn’t sit on the couch eating bags of chips before a fight. Athletes like this train hard with purpose and they train to win. Hunting is no different and that’s why these select few hunters tend to get more opportunities than others. And, just like a fighter, when that opportunity presents itself, they recognize it and capitalize on it.

When the rubber meets the road

Every person I’ve met or talked to in the 10% club shares what I’ve listed above to some degree. What is evident after talking about all of this is that if you want great results, then you need to put out great effort. There are no magic tricks to being part of the 10%. It isn’t a certain piece of gear that will push you into the success bracket. Just choices and acting upon them. Being willing to do what most wouldn’t, go where most won’t and embrace every aspect of hunting from the preparation to pulling the trigger. Revel in both failure and success. Enjoy the whole process. That’s the secret. 10% of the hunters do kill 100% of the game, but they put in 90% more effort to get there.

There are many different types of fishing, yet which is the most effective? In this guide, we will explain everything you need to know about fly fishing, including whether you will catch more fish and how to catch as many fish as possible. We believe that fly fishing can be one of the most productive forms of fishing.

One of the unique things about fly fishing is that every detail of your cast can be customized to specifically target the sort of fish you’re aiming for. You can utilize a general-use fly rod, or you can opt to purchase a rod that has been designed to assist you in specific ways. Combined with the endless amount of techniques and combinations it gives you the most optimal approach at catching large amounts of fish.

What is fly fishing?

Before we delve deeper into fly fishing and just how effective it is, it is essential to explain what this method involves. When fishing via traditional means, a cast is made that will use some sort of bait or lure, which is attached to the end of the line. The line is typically one of the newer braided lines or a monofilament.

One thing that is noticeable about this type of setup is that the line is a lightweight and very thin material, with the bait or lure being the heaviest part. This makes it so that when the cast is let loose, your bait or lure is what will carry momentum through the air, trailing the lightweight line behind.

Now, if you were to cast an object that was light in weight, you would have noticed that making the cast go very far is a challenge! In all traditional types of fishing, it is the weight of the lure that is vital.

Traditional Lure Casting Method

If you have ever seen someone fly cast, you will have probably noticed some distinctive differences between traditional lure casting and fly casting. Specialized fly fishing equipment is used by the angler to achieve this cast. This includes a purpose-built fly rod, as well as fly, tippet, leader, and a fly line.

The main difference when it comes to fly casting is that the artificial flies utilized to catch the fish are very lightweight. Even when you use much larger flies for pike or bass fishing, the weight is going to be minimal when compared with traditional bait, such as casting a spinning lure.

Fly Casting Method

With this approach, the key to getting the fly out to where the fish are is with the right fly line. In this casting method, the fly line is the weight. Through the use of a casting method that enables the fly line and the fly roof to work in unison, the weight of lined is utilized for carrying the fly out in front of you through the energy being transferred that has been built up in the line, down through the line, and out toward the end of it.

The most important aspect of fly fishing is knowing how to fly cast. There are some specific techniques in fly fishing that are not going to need much casting. However, the vast majority of what you will do in fly fishing will incorporate casting.

So, now let’s get into fly fishing and what it actually is. This revolves around the presentation of an artificial lure called a fly to a fish, which will typically imitate some sort of insect. This is the basic concept of fly fishing. The aim here is attempting to mimic the natural food base for a fish, getting them to take the fly. You are mostly trying to trick the fish.

The flies that you use for this can vary to insects that live under the water’s surface to those that float on the surface, from caddis to mayflies. Different approaches to fly fishing are required based on the type of fly you use. Some of the materials that tend to be used are as follows:

• Feathers from birds, such as pheasants and ducks
• Hairs and furs from animals, like moose, elk, deer, muskrats, and beavers
• Wires, tinsel, and other types of ribbing materials
• Tungsten beads, brass, and glass
• Artificially created synthetic materials

The Main Differences Between Spin Fishing and Fly Fishing

In order to give you a true reflection of the differences between spin fishing and fly fishing, we have put together the main differences in a table below.

Differences

Spin Fishing

Fly Fishing

Lures vs. flies

Spin fishing utilizes heavier lures, which frequently imitate fish.

Fly fishing uses flies – including streamers, emergers, nymphs, and dry flies – to imitate all of the different types of food that fish feed one.

Rod type

Spin rods are used. They are heavier lines, which are cast monofilament lines that have a single cast.

Fly rods are used. These use false casting to cast the line, which is lightweight.

Lakes vs. rivers

Spin fishing tends to mainly be done on Stillwater.

Fly fishing tends to be done on moving water. However, it can also be done on Stillwater as well.

Line type

A monofilament line or another sort of line is used to cast lures that are heavier and do not require a heavier line to cast.

To cast the lightweight flies, a fly line, tippet, and leader are used.

Presentation

Spin fishing works effectively when imitating crawdads or baitfish. They are presented in the water at all depths, after which they are retrieved and then brought to you.

Fly fishing enables you to have a stealthier and upstream presentation. When you are fly fishing, you can also work in tighter quarters.

Some other differences do exist between the two types of fishing. However, we hope that the table above will help you to clearly understand the main differences between the two.

Does Fly Fishing Catch More Fish?

While each of the fishing styles is different, they all offer unique advantages in specific situations. However, there are a number of reasons why people believe that you can catch more fish with fly fishing, so let’s take a look at them below…

You can customize your fishing experience.

One of the unique things about fly fishing is that every detail of your cast can be customized to specifically target the sort of fish you’re aiming for. You can utilize a general-use fly rod, or you can opt to purchase a rod that has been designed to assist you in specific ways.

Once your rod has been personalized, this gives you the ability to customize your line. The weight, style, and length can be adjusted. This means your line is going to more significant meet your needs; you can amend the tippet and the leader. With fly fishing, you can quickly achieve a shorter or longer leader.

When it comes to tippets, there are several different styles of tippets that can be utilized with your line. The leader and the tippet are utilized so that the line is virtually invisible to the fish. They also make it a lot easier for the flies to be attached and detached from your line, enabling easy and quick transitions between casts.

One of the most customized parts of fly fishing is the flies. There are a number of different flies that you can buy that can help you with attracting the sort of fish you want to catch. You can do some research, watch your surroundings, and tie your own flies. This means that your fishing experience is ultra-customized, and it also means that you are going to be able to increase your chances of catching as many fish as possible.

The fly is delivered to the fish in a manner that is inconspicuous

Aside from the benefits that have been mentioned so far, there are a number of other advantages that are associated with fly fishing that tend to make it more beneficial. This includes the fact that the fly is delivered to the fish in a manner that is inconspicuous when the cast is done properly. The fly will be cast against the current, and then it is allowed to drift for a distance, in the same manner, that a typical bug falling into moving water would. Your goal here is to make sure the fly is delivered in a manner that the fish does not think there is something unnatural about it. If you are able to fool them, they will take a bite on the line.

You can catch a wide range of species

Last but not least, another reason why people believe you can catch more fish with fly fishing is that you will be able to catch all types of species. This includes bluegills, bass, trout, and many more.

Some of the main species of fish that fly fishing are successful with are as follows:

• Bonefish
• Tuna
• Tarpon
• Carp
• Panfish
• Bass
• Pike
• Salmon
• Grayling
• Trout

How to catch even more fish with fly fishing

As discussed, there are a lot of different characteristics that are associated with fly fishing that result in it being more successful than conventional fishing. However, this is only going to be the case if you get your technique down. With that being said, below, we are going to reveal some of the different tips that you can use in order to catch more fish with fly fishing.

Watch the bugs

The first step you need to take when fly fishing is to be observant and watch the bugs! Before you begin to cast away, you need to pay attention to the bugs that are near the water or on the water. Take a look at what kind of bugs the fish are eating. By doing this, you will be able to determine what sort of fly is going to be the most effective and result in you catching the most fish. You also need to think about what trout could be eating under the surface of the water. Try some of your wet flies or nymphs that match the most common underwater snacks. Simply choosing a fly without thought is not the way to go if you want to catch as many fish as possible while trout fly fishing!

Test the length of your leader

The next tip to ensuring you catch as many fish as possible when fly fishing is to test the leader’s length. Depending on the technique and fly you use, you may want either a shorter or longer leader length. For wet or dry flies, try using a longer leader. This should be anywhere between 12 and 20 feet. A shorter leader is going to be more beneficial if you are utilizing a streamer, so go for something between seven and eight feet. It is more than okay for you to try out different lengths on your leader so that you can figure out which is going to be the most effective for you and the fish you are trying to catch.

For more information on leader length check out our full article here:

Approach fish carefully

When you are stalking fish, make sure you approach low and make the most of any cover that you can, for example, bushes and long grass rushes. If you can, make sure you keep a low profile, especially when you are on a high bank with the skyline behind you. Remember, when a fish is deep, it is going to be able to see you from further away than fish that are close to the surface. This is because of the way in which fish see. They have an impeccable vision. They have the ability to uniquely adapt their vision to distinguish predators and locate food. This is why you need to do everything in your effort to blend into your surroundings. You may not think so but wearing bright clothes is only going to lower your success rates.

Walk softly and be as quiet as possible

Once you are in pole position, it is important to walk softly and to be as quiet as possible. This is something a lot of people take for granted. Nevertheless, fish are as sensitive to vibration and noise as they are to visual warnings. If you walk softly on the banks of the river and you try to wade as quietly and slowly as you can, you will definitely notice better results. Of course, trout don’t have ears, but what they do have is lateral lines that they use for detecting vibration and movement in the surrounding water.

Avoid overcasting to the fish

This is one mistake we see a lot of people make when it comes to fly fishing. Catching a fish does not always demand that you use a long cast. After all, you never know what fish could be right in front of you, do you? Before you attempt to catch any fish that are further away, make sure you check the area close to you. Not only do you never know what sort of fish are going to be near you, but it is going to be a lot easier for the hook to be set from a shorter distance rather than one that is far away.

Use the entire rod

Another tip that is important when it comes to fly fishing success is to use the full rod. A lot of fishermen think that they are more likely to win a fight against a fish if the rod is as straight in the air as possible. However, the outcome is not usually a positive one when this happens. Instead, the line either breaks, or the rod does. Instead, you should make sure your rod is nearer to a 45-degree angle instead. This will mean that you are not just using the tip of the rod; you are going to be using the entire rod. When it comes to fighting a fish, it is not all about strength. In fact, it is skill that is most important.

Stay safe

We also have to stress just how important it is to stay safe! After all, if you hurt yourself, you are not going to be able to catch as many fish as possible, are you? There are lots of different steps that can be taken here. For example, you need to wear a hat and some sunglasses so that your eyes are protected. When spotting fish, premium quality polarized sunglasses are always going to provide you with help. Plus, only wade if you need to, and make sure you are always careful when you do. Use a wading belt as well; this is a must.

Cast from your elbow and wrist

Last but not least, our final tip when it comes to getting your technique right in order to catch as many fish as possible is to make sure you cast from the elbow and wrist. A good cast does not mean that the whole arm must be utilized. Instead, it focuses more on the movements of your wrist. Your wrist needs to be straight, yet it should also be relaxed. It is the rod that needs to be doing the vast majority of the work for you. It takes a lot of practice in order to get the perfect cast. Therefore, the best thing that you can do in this regard is to practice, practice, and practice some more!

More Fish, and More Consistent Results

Not only do you have the potential to catch a greater number of fish with fly fishing but you can expect more consistent results as well. This comes down to the tactics that are involved in fly fishing. When you are spin fishing, the lure, whether it is biological or artificial, is put into the water’s depths in order to try and allure the fish into biting it. The lure needs to look like a source of food in order to tempt the fish so that they bite it. Some people have stated that the fish need to be in a certain type of feeding mood in order for this type of fishing to be successful.

When it comes to fly fishing, the end goal is to try and trick the fish into biting a fly that looks like one of their food sources. This can be a fly, as mentioned, or another type of aquatic insect. This is done on top of the water, at the bottom or anywhere that the fish are feeding. The key here is to try and mimic the natural behaviors of the food source as closely as possible, so that is presented in a way that fools the fish and they take the bait.

If you have ever tried fishing before, you will have probably experienced the instance whereby your lure is presented and the fish end up being spooked on the impact of the lure entering the water. This is something that does not happen with fly fishing because the presentation is on the water and above the fish. Because of this, you are unlikely to spook the fish, and this is how you end up with results that are a lot more consistent.

Other Reasons Why Fly Fishing is More Productive

Aside from being able to catch a greater number of fish, because you can personalize your fishing experience, there are a number of other reasons why fly fishing is considered better than spin fishing, and so we are going to take a look at these below.

You will enjoy the experience

Not only can you customize your fishing experience to ensure you catch more fish but there is no denying that fly fishing is much more experienced orientated as well. There are more factors that go into fly fishing and a lot of different things that need to be considered. This is why fly fishing is more fun. It can also be more challenging and more practice is needed in order to get it right. However, isn’t this what the thrill of fishing is all about?

It’s extremely rewarding

The former

Wild edible roots and tubers can form the basis for a wild foods diet, providing more calories and nutrition than a few wild foraged weeds.

A while back I was having lunch with my little ones in a park, and a young couple, seemingly on a first date was not too far off. They were having an animated conversation about, of all things…foraging!

I couldn’t help but listen, giggling to myself that the world of dating has come a long way since I was younger, and now these two are trying to woo each other with their foraging prowess.

One of them would brag about their haul of wild leeks (aka. ramps) earlier in the season, and the other was quick to drop every fact they knew about those tasty wild bulbs.

I don’t often meet other foragers out and about in the world and it was tricky for me to bite my tongue as they talked about my passion just a few yards away. Not my place, not my date…but I do hope it works out for that pair!

Right before they headed out, they both vehemently agreed that you never, under any circumstances forage wild roots! Never! That’s just so incredibly dangerous!

Anything below ground has to be off-limits….which I’ll admit is kind of ironic, given the previous brag about wild leeks, though they’re probably only harvesting the leaves.

Irony aside, I was kind of surprised. I dig plenty of wild roots, though I’m no expert on the subject. Of course, there are toxic species, that’s true of leaves, fruit, and anything else.

For some reason, people are intimidated by foraging roots and tubers, partially because it involves a bit more work than plucking edible wild berries off a bush. But also I think a lot of the reluctance stems from fear.

It’s true, there are some incredibly toxic roots out there. But there are also some incredibly poisonous berries, and that doesn’t stop just about everyone from picking blackberries along the hiking trail.

Why? Well, a blackberry looks like a blackberry of course! There’s really nothing that looks like a blackberry, except other edible rubus species, which are also tasty and delicious.

That’s true of many roots as well, and if you learn them, they’ll be no less intimidating than trailside berries.

Wild Edible Roots and Tubers

That experience got me thinking, and I really want to write more about the dense calorie sources that are available in the form of wild roots and tubers. There’s a handful that I forage regularly, but still, there are more that I know but rarely bother with.

I consider myself an adventurous forager, but ya know, sometimes I get lazy like anybody. I know cattail roots make excellent flour, but sometimes lounging by the pond is nicer than wading into the muck to harvest pancake ingredients.

Still, I need a new challenge, and this is enough to spur me into it. A few years back, I decided to try to find every edible berry and fruit in my local landscape, and I came up with more than 50 different species.

Next, I’m going underground to try to find as many edible wild roots as possible.

This obviously isn’t an exhaustive list, and I’m sure there are plenty of tasty roots that I haven’t tried (yet). I’ll work to add to it over time, and please do leave me a note in the comments if you see any that definitely should make the list.

I’ll add links as I write about each one, but for now, I’m posting this as a starting point mainly because I’d like feedback.

What’s your experience foraging wild roots and tubers? What are your favorites? What’s missing from my list?

(Leave me a note below in the comments.)

I did some quick research, and here’s what I found for edible roots. Most I knew, but some I had never heard of, and I have no verification of their edibility beyond spotty online sources, so please verify with other sources and don’t just take my word for this (or anything really, you should always double-check).

• Arrowroot (Sagittaria latifolia)
• Bistort (Polygonum bistortoides)
• Bull Thistle (Cirsium vulgare)
• Burdock (Arctium sp.)
• Cattails (Typha sp.)
• Chickory (Cichorium intybus)
• Chufa (Cyperus esculentus)
• Cucumber Root (Medeola virginiana)
• Dandelion (Taraxacum officinale)
• Daylily (Hemerocallis sp.)
• Evening Primrose (Oenothera sp.)
• Garlic Mustard (Alliaria petiolata)
• Ground Nut (Apios americana)
• Lesser Celandine (Ficaria verna)
• Lotus, American (Nelumbo lutea)
• Pignut (Conopodium majus)
• Ramps or Wild Leeks (Allium tricoccum)
• Sego Lily (Calochortus nuttallii)
• Shepherd’s Purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
• Spring Beauty (Claytonia lanceolata)
• Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum sp.)
• Sunchokes or Jerusalem Artichokes (Helianthus tuberosus)
• Trout Lily (Erythronium pudica)
• Wild Carrot or Queen Anne’s Lace (Daucus carota)
• Wild Parsnip (Pastinaca sativa)
• Wild Potato (Orogenia linearifolia)

Be aware that many of these require processing to consume, and are not edible raw straight from the ground. Beyond that, others have toxic or dangerous parts.

The leaves of wild parsnip, for example, can cause a rash from contact with skin. Wild carrot has a deadly toxic look alike too.

Be careful, and do your research before attempting to forage any of these wild roots. Always consult multiple sources, and always be 100% sure of your ID before eating any wild plant.

This is, as I said, just a jumping-off point for further research…and a bucket list of sorts for myself.

Medicinal Roots

Beyond the edible roots, there are a few wild roots and tubers that are “edible” but generally consumed in small quantities for medicinal benefit. You can harvest them and they’re definitely useful, but you’re not exactly going to cook a meal from them.

I’m just adding these here for completeness, given that they are eaten medicinally, even if in small quantities. Know that while they may be edible in small doses, that doesn’t mean they’re not problematic or even toxic in large doses.

• Barberry (Berberis vulgaris) – An upright invasive bush in the US, and I commonly eat the berries. Haven’t yet harvested roots.
• Comfrey (Symphytum officinale) – Most sources suggest sticking to external uses only, since even small doses may be toxic, though it has a history of internal use historically.
• Dock (Rumex Sp.) – Reportedly edible, but I have a reaction to it, and it tastes horrible. Plenty of people use it for both food and medicine though.
• Echinacea (Echinacea purpurea) – We regularly make echinacea tincture and echinacea tea.
• Elecampane (Inula helenium) – We use this for homemade cough syrup, and I personally find it extremely effective.
• Marshmallow (Althaea officinalis) – Marshmallow root tea is incredibly soothing for sore throats and cough, and I keep it on the shelf for winter remedies.
• Mullein (Verbascum thapsus) – I use the leaves and flowers, and only recently learned the root is used medicinally as well.
• Japanese Knotweed (Reynoutria japonica) – Traditionally used for Lyme disease.
• Valerian (Valeriana Officinalis) – Used as a sleep aid, often as a herbal tincture.
• Wild Ginger (Asarum canadense) – Small doses, and use caution as it may be toxic.

Poisonous Roots

Though obviously you’re not just going to dig up any root and eat it out there in the wild, there are a few to really avoid while foraging roots.

This is definitely not an exhaustive list, but just a few of the most common poisonous roots, especially those that have edible look-alikes.

As always, make sure you’re 100% positive on your identification before eating any wild plant, and always consult more than one source when trying to identify a plant.

• Belladonna (Atropa belladonna) ~ Most poisonings are from the berries, which are really beautiful and especially attractive to kids. The whole plant is deadly toxic though.
• Bloodroot (Sanguinaria canadensis) ~ Sometimes used medicinally in external preparations, I don’t think it’s worth the risk. It can cause extreme contact burns and I avoid it altogether. Still a beautiful spring ephemeral to appreciate in the forest, just enjoy with your eyes.
• Elderberry Root (Sambucus sp.) ~ Though the berries are edible and medicinal when cooked, all other parts of the plant at considered toxic.
• False Hellebore (Veratrum viride) ~ Occasionally confused for ramps by novice foragers since they appear at the same time in the early spring. Other than being low-growing green leaves, they don’t really look anything like ramps in my opinion. Still, avoid them as a toxic plant.
• Greater Celandine (Chelidonium majus)
• Jack in the Pulpit (Arisaema triphyllum)
• Mandrake (Mandragora sp.)
• Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) ~ Leaves are sometimes consumed with the right preparation, even though some sources list the whole plant as toxic. Avoid the roots and berries though.
• Water Hemlock (Cicuta sp.) ~ A close look-alike with Queen Anne’s lace, but deadly toxic. I avoid Queen Anne’s Lace roots for this reason.

Foraging Guides

Looking for more foraging guides? Read on…

• 60+ Dandelion Recipes
• 50+ Ways to Use Yarrow
• 12+ Chokecherry Recipes
• 100+ Medicinal Plants and Their Uses

According to www.dictionary.com, cull means “to choose, select or pick”. In other words, deer culling is when a human decides which animal is being taken from the herd. By definition, deer culling is not much different from hunting.

Why use Deer Culling?

There are a few reasons why a deer herd would be culled:

• Herd Reduction
• Deer and vehicle collisions
• Property damage
• Disease Control

Herd Reduction

Herd reduction is often used within urban areas and forest preserves. This type of deer culling normally involves sharp shooters. The goal is to reduce the size of the herd to prevent things like starvation and incest.

Herd reduction does come with quite a hefty price tag. The cost of these deer culls can run from around $340 per deer to $740 per deer. The overall price of herd reduction culling can easily run into the hundreds of thousands of dollars. (1)

Deer and vehicle collisions

Deer and vehicle collisions are a common occurrence in Illinois and result in vehicle damage and injury, including death, to some drivers. Due to the relationship between deer populations and vehicle/deer accidents, the State of Illinois works with insurance companies when determining the states deer herd objectives. While it is controversial, deer culling has been shown to lowered the number of deer and vehicle collisions.

Property Damage

Property damage is a serious issue to Illinois farmers and homeowners. A whitetail deer can consume an average 7 pounds of food per day which equates to 2,555 pounds per year. This can be devastating to a farmer’s revenue earned from his crops.

Residential damage occurs also. Valuable trees and plants can be damaged when a whitetail has turn to them for a food source after their natural habitat has been eaten.(2)

Agricultural damage

There are a three ways in which deer are culled from these properties.

1. The issuing of nuisance tags to the property owner giving them the ability to cull the deer
2. Allowing hunters access to the property
3. Using sharpshooters provided by the state

Urban Damage

With urban/residential damage, sharpshooters are normally used. Only in rare instances, urban hunting zones are established.

Disease Control

This type of deer culling is used in areas where disease is threatening the herd. Control methods in this situation depends on the state. Sharpshooters and traditional hunting methods are often used together to gather information on the disease. After the information is gathered, further action is decided upon.

Deer culling and the future of the Illinois deer herd

Deer culling is an important issue and seems to be a controlling factor with the number of deer in Illinois. We have talked to many people on the subject ranging from hunters to employees of the Illinois DNR. In the near future we will be publishing articles containing interviews that give different angles and viewpoints on the subject of deer culling in Illinois.

The coming sections will include an interview with Jeff O’hare who runs the Facebook page “Stop the Illinois DNR so the Herd Can Grow”. This posts will offer very interesting insight on CWD and what is happening here in Illinois from the perspective of some Illinois hunters.

The final section will be an interview of Doug Dufford, Wildlife Disease and Invasive Species Program Manager for the IDNR. These different perspectives on the CWD and deer culling will allow for greater insight to this area!!

References

1. http://www.cleveland.com/solon/index.ssf/2013/12/solon_continues_deer_culling_t.html
2. http://www.northamericanwhitetail.com/land-management/deermanagement_wt_202foodplots/

Many people use the flat shooting 6.5 PRC for hunting deer, elk, and many other species of big game with excellent results. Here are a few great brands of 6.5 PRC ammo that will probably serve you well next time you’re afield.

Released in 2018, the 6.5 Precision Rifle Cartridge (sometimes known as the 6.5 Hornady PRC or just 6.5 PRC) has taken the hunting world by storm. Designed to use the same high BC bullets as the 6.5 Creedmoor, the 6.5 PRC has a larger case capacity and can shoot those bullets 200-300fps faster.

When compared to the 6.5 mm Creedmoor cartridge, the 6.5 PRC has a flatter trajectory with less bullet drop, more resistance to wind drift, and more retained energy at long distances. Additionally, with an overall length of just 2.955″, the 6.5 PRC will also still function in many short-action rifles.

The end result is that the 6.5 PRC is a flat shooting, hard hitting, and moderately recoiling cartridge capable of the highest levels of accuracy that still functions in a short action rifle. These factors have made the 6.5 PRC a very popular centerfire rifle cartridge among hunters in recent years.

Indeed, the 6.5 PRC compares favorably to many other 6.5 mm cartridges (like the 6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Grendel, 6.5-284 Norma, etc.) as well as bigger cartridges like the 300 Win Mag and 7mm Rem Mag in certain areas.

While it is definitely gaining in popularity, not all manufacturers produce ammunition for it as it is still a specialized and relatively new cartridge. However, famous brands like Federal Premium, Nosler, and Winchester have all recently joined Hornady in producing factory 6.5 PRC ammunition for hunting elk, deer, moose, black bears, and many other big game animals in North America and elsewhere.

While the 6.5 PRC absolutely excels on deer sized game, it is also powerful enough for use hunting bigger game like black bear and elk when using heavy for caliber, premium ammunition loaded with controlled expansion bullets.

It’s important to realize that different hunting situations necessitate the use of different kinds of 6.5 PRC ammo for best results and using the wrong ammunition can lead to disastrous performance.

For instance, a load using a rapidly expanding bullet that’s ideal for use on whitetail deer would be a terrible choice for use on really big game like moose or elk.

Make no mistake, while it’s a little on the light side for extremely large game, the 6.5 PRC can be an extremely effective cartridge for hunting elk, but you do need to use proper bullets if you plan on using the 6.5 PRC for elk.

Fortunately, hunters now have access to a great selection of controlled expansion bullets that perform very well on really big game like elk and moose.

Keep all of this in mind when you select 6.5 PRC ammo for an upcoming hunt.

Additionally, while they can be very accurate and are certainly capable of killing big game animals, I don’t recommend using bullets designed for target shooting or marketed as match ammo like the Sierra MatchKing or Hornady ELD Match for hunting.

This is because target or match bullets usually aren’t designed for optimum terminal performance on big game animals and you may run into issues with poor penetration.

Instead, it’s best to stick with 6.5 PRC ammo specifically designed for hunting that uses soft point, jacketed hollow point, or similar hunting bullets.

Fortunately, there is a large (and growing) selection of 6.5 PRC factory loads specifically designed for just almost any big game hunting situation in the United States or elsewhere in the world. So, regardless of whether you’re using a bolt action Browning X-Bolt, a Christensen Arms Ridgeline, a Tikka T3, or some other hunting rifle, there is pretty much guaranteed to be something for everyone on the list below of the best 6.5 PRC ammunition for hunting.

In this article, I’m going to provide recommendations for the best 6.5 PRC ammo for hunting elk, deer, feral hogs, pronghorn, black bear, and all sorts of other big game. I’ll also go over the strengths and weaknesses of each individual load and so you can select the right ammunition for your specific needs.

Note: some of the links below are affiliate links. This means I will earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you make a purchase of rifle, handgun, rimfire, or shotgun ammunition through those links. This helps support the blog and allows me to continue to create free content that’s useful to hunters like yourself. Thanks for your support.

Hornady Precision Hunter

The 6.5 PRC absolutely excels at long distance where the almost laser flat trajectory and wind bucking characteristics of the cartridge become extremely important. It should come as no surprise then that Hornady includes the 6.5 PRC in their Precision Hunter line of factory ammo. As a matter of fact, this was the very first factory hunting ammo option for the cartridge and it’s still a good choice today.

Loaded with the extremely aerodynamic Extremely Low Drag eXpanding (ELD-X) bullet, this ammo line is designed for western hunters going after game like mule deer or pronghorn antelope who need the very best ammo for a long range hunting situation. Using a 143 grain ELD-X bullet, that load is a very good 6.5 PRC ammo option for hunters wanting to maximize the extended range performance of the cartridge.

Hornady advertises that the ELD-X bullet has the best-in-class ballistic coefficients over their entire trajectory and that their Precision Hunter ammunition also offers match grade accuracy (usually sub-MOA).

Though the ELD-X does not have a bonded core like the Hornady InterBond, the ELD-X does feature a thicker jacket and the Hornady InterLock ring to help increase weight retention, control expansion, and minimize the chances of core-jacket separation. For this reason, the ELD-X is still devastating on deer and pronghorn sized game, but it’s also a much better choice than their SST bullet for use on larger game.

That said, the ELD-X is still a little too fragile for my tastes. Many hunters use this exact ammunition on elk each year with a lot of success. Personally, I prefer a tougher bullet for elk sized game (like the Barnes LRX, Nosler AccuBond Long Range, Hornady CX, or Federal Terminal Ascent also on this list). I think the ELD-X is perfect for deer sized game though.

All things considered, this 6.5 PRC ammunition is capable of delivering great terminal performance on many species of big game for shots at 400+ yards without dealing with the price or recoil of the big magnum cartridges.

• Bullet Type: Hornady Extremely Low Drag eXpanding
• Bullet Weight: 143 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .625
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,960 feet per second (2,782 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET PRECISION HUNTER 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Lucky Gunner, Natchez Shooters Supplies, Palmetto State Armory, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Barnes VOR-TX Long Range

Barnes recently added a 6.5 PRC ammo option to their VOR-TX Long Range line. Featuring their legendary copper Long Range Expanding (LRX) bullets, Barnes ammunition is designed for rapid expansion, high weight retention, and deep penetration.

Available using 127gr 6.5mm bullets, Barnes now offers another outstanding choice for hunters looking for a tough 6.5 PRC ammo option suitable for bigger game like elk hunting. This particular loading uses a 127gr LRX bullet. Designed for use at extended range, these bullets have a higher ballistic coefficient and are built to expand well at lower velocities when compared to the regular Barnes TTSX bullets.

Fortunately, even the LRX bullet is still very tough and will deliver great weight retention and deep penetration. You can also depend on it to perform well at close range. Not every hunter will need the extended range performance of the LRX, but it’s an excellent offering for those who want it.

This load is also 100% copper, which makes it an ideal choice of 6.5 PRC hunting ammunition for use in states like California that that don’t permit the use of lead bullets.

I’m a big fan of the Barnes VOR-TX line and the LRX bullets in general. I’ve used this ammunition with a lot of success on both deer and pronghorn over the past few years. This ammo is also a favorite among many North America, New Zealand, and Africa hunting outfitters.

• Bullet Type: Long Range Expanding (LRX)
• Bullet Weight: 127 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .468
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,010 feet per second (2,554 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET BARNES 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Lucky Gunner, Optics Planet, Palmetto State Armory, & Sportsman’s Warehouse

Federal Premium Terminal Ascent

Federal’s Terminal Ascent line is another good option of 6.5 PRC hunting ammo for hunters looking for really good extended range performance. This ammunition uses the new Terminal Ascent Bullet, which is also extremely aerodynamic and accurate. It’s not quite as aerodynamic as the Hornady ELD-X, but it still has a relatively high BC and is also much more robustly constructed.

With those things in mind, I personally tend to lean more towards the Terminal Ascent over the ELD-X for hunting bigger game like elk with the 6.5 PRC. This ammo is another great option for hunters going after game out west like mule deer or pronghorn who need excellent 6.5 PRC ammo for a long range hunting situation.

If this ammunition shoots accurately in your rifle, this is another good option (with the 127gr Barnes LRX and 130gr Hornady CX, and 142gr Nosler AccuBond Long Range) for hunters who need good 6.5 PRC ammo for elk hunting. While the Barnes LRX is a slightly tougher bullet, the Terminal Ascent has a little bit higher BC though. Both are excellent options though and will work great on an upcoming elk hunt if they function reliably and shoot accurately in your rifle.

• Bullet Type: Terminal Ascent
• Bullet Weight: 130 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .532
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,000 feet per second (2,598 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET TERMINAL ASCENT 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownell’s, Cabela’s, Natchez Shooters Supplies, Optics Planet, & Sportsman’s Warehouse

Hornady Outfitter

Hornady introduced their new Outfitter line of ammunition a few years ago and just added the 6.5 PRC cartridge to that lineup. Though it will also work quite well on a whitetail deer hunt in the back 40, the company markets this 6.5 PRC ammo specifically for use on guided hunts in really tough environments like a caribou or moose hunt in Alaska or a kudu hunt in South Africa.

This ammunition is loaded with an extremely tough 130 grain CX bullet that’s designed for controlled expansion, high weight retention, and deep penetration on large, heavy boned animals like elk and moose. This is high-quality ammunition that also uses nickel-plated case for reliable feeding and corrosion resistance under the most demanding conditions. The primers and case necks are also sealed.

With all those things in mind, it’s easy to see why Hornady advertises their Outfitter 6.5 PRC ammo for use on a big hunt that’s the culmination of years of saving and planning. After all, when the chips are down on the hunt of a lifetime, the absolute last thing you need is for your ammo to fail at the moment of truth.

Look really hard at the 127gr Barnes LRX, the 130gr Terminal Ascent, the 142gr Nosler AccuBond Long Range, or the 130gr CX for the best 6.5 PRC ammo for elk. All will offer similar terminal performance and similar ballistics. Choose the one you’re able to obtain that shoots best in your rifle.

The CX bullet used in Hornady Outfitter ammunition is lead free, which makes this ammo another good choice for use in states like California. Note: the CX bullet replaced the older GMX bullet from Hornady and is a tiny bit more aerodynamic, but retains the great terminal performance of the GMX.

• Bullet Type: CX
• Bullet Weight: 130 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .489
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,975 feet per second (2,555 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET HORNADY OUTFITTER 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownell’s, Cabela’s, MidwayUSA, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Nosler Trophy Grade Long Range

Nosler produces 6.5 PRC ammo as part of their Trophy Grade Long Range line loaded with their AccuBond Long Range Bullets. The 142 grain AccuBond Long Range bullets used in this loading have a bonded core and have both the highest BC and use the heaviest bullets available in a factory load for the cartridge.

That heavy for caliber, extremely aerodynamic bullet maximizes the strengths of the high velocity 6.5 PRC cartridge and delivers heavy hitting, flat shooting, and wind bucking performance out to extended range. This bullet also works great with the 1:8″ twist barrels that are common with 6.5 PRC rifles.

Indeed, this 6.5 PRC loading is capable of shooting a much tougher bullet with the same BC as the 143gr ELD-X used in Hornady’s Precision Hunter line. For this reason, the two loads will have virtually the same trajectory, but the tougher 142gr ABLR will work better on bigger game than the 143gr ELD-X.

With all that in mind, this is the best choice of a factory load for a hunter looking to maximize the all-around performance of the 6.5 PRC. That bullet is soft enough to deliver devastating terminal performance on game like deer and pronghorn, but is also tough enough to reach the vitals on bigger and tougher game like elk and moose from typical shooting angles.

By the same token, this bullet has a very high ballistic coefficient and, thanks in part to the combination of using Nosler brass with Nosler bullets, is also capable of outstanding accuracy.

All of those factors combine to facilitate use on big game at extended range.

All things considered, I think this is the best 6.5 PRC ammo for use on all manner of game and under the widest possible variety of hunting situations.

• Bullet Type: Nosler AccuBond Long Range
• Bullet Weight: 142 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .625
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,900 feet per second (2,651 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET NOSLER TROPHY GRADE LONG RANGE 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Natchez Shooter Supplies, and Sportsman’s Warehouse

Federal Fusion

It’s not new, fancy, or sexy, but Federal Fusion ammunition with a 140gr bullet is outstanding 6.5 PRC ammo for deer hunting. In addition to being very effective, this ammunition is also somewhat reasonably priced and has been one of the easier to find 6.5 PRC ammo options during the past few years.

Fusion bullets have a bonded lead core to help with weight retention. Combined with a skived tip to help initiate expansion, Federal Fusion 6.5 PRC ammo delivers a really good balance of controlled expansion, high weight retention, and deep penetration. While it’s not the latest and greatest stuff, Federal Fusion ammunition also has a really good reputation for accuracy.

This is ideal ammo for feral hog and deer hunting. You could also include game like pronghorn and even black bear in there as well.

It will definitely work on bigger game if you don’t have anything better, but I do not recommend using Federal Fusion 6.5 PRC caliber ammo for hunting game like elk or moose unless that’s all you have. Instead, I think other loads I recommend later in this article are a better choice like the Barnes LRX, Hornady CX, Nosler AccuBond, or Federal Terminal Ascent.

All things considered, this is outstanding on deer sized game and you can’t go wrong with Federal Fusion 6.5 PRC ammo for deer hunting.

• Bullet Type: Fusion Soft Point
• Bullet Weight: 140 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .439
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,925 feet per second (2,659 foot-pounds of energy)

GET FEDERAL FUSION 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s and Natchez Shooter Supplies

Nosler Trophy Grade

Nosler manufacturers a loading that uses a 140 grain AccuBond bullet as part of their Trophy Grade line. This is perfect for those in need of some quality and extremely versatile 6.5 PRC ammo for deer, bear, or elk hunting.

Just like the name says, the AccuBond is a bonded bullet where the lead core is chemically bonded to the jacket, so you don’t have to worry about the bullet “grenading” or expanding too rapidly upon impact. It’s not quite as tough as the Nosler Partition, but the AccuBond is still a very robustly constructed bullet and these features make the AccuBond a much better choice for an elk hunt than typical cup and core bullets.

AccuBond bullets are also pretty darn aerodynamic (much more aerodynamic than Partition bullets of the same caliber and weight) and will reliably expand at lower impact velocities. All things considered, this ammunition is tough enough for close range shots on big game while at the same time providing very good extended range performance.

Some of the more specialized 6.5 PRC loads (which I’ll also cover in this article) offer better performance in specific circumstances. However, this 140 gr AccuBond load is an excellent all around choice for hunters who want a flexible, yet still extremely capable 6.5 PRC hunting load regardless of whether you’re hunting deer in Idaho or elk in Colorado. Place one of these bullets in the right place and you’ll be happy with the results.

• Bullet Type: Nosler AccuBond
• Bullet Weight: 140 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .509
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,900 feet per second (2,614 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET TROPHY GRADE 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s, Natchez Shooter Supplies, and Sportsman’s Warehouse.

Winchester Expedition Big Game Long Range

Winchester’s Expedition Big Game Long Range factory load is a collaboration between Winchester Ammunition and Nosler Inc. that’s loaded with a 142 grain Nosler AccuBond Long Range (ABLR) bullet. This ammunition offers great long range performance, but also uses a bullet that’s tough enough use with a short range shot on a big animal (like an elk).

The AccuBond Long Range is a great bullet that’s very aerodynamic and will still reliably expand at lower impact velocities. Nosler advertises that this bullet will still reliably open at velocities as low as 1,300fps (compared to 1,800fps for many other bullets). At the same time, this is a bonded bullet that’s designed to offer a mix of deep penetration, high weight retention, and controlled expansion.

With over 2,800 ft-lbs of muzzle energy shooting very tough, low-drag bullets, this load will also work great at almost any reasonable range from point blank out to several hundred yards on all manner of game ranging from thin-skinned animals like whitetail and mule deer or pronghorn all the way up to bigger and tougher game like black bear, elk, and even moose.

For those reasons, this Winchester ammo with a 142-grain Nosler AccuBond Long Range is also great 6.5 PRC ammo for elk, bear, pronghorn, and deer hunting.

• Bullet Type: Nosler AccuBond Long Range
• Bullet Weight: 142 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient: .625
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,020 feet per second (2,875 ft-lbs of muzzle energy)

GET WINCHESTER EXPEDITION BIG GAME 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownells, Cabela’s, and Natchez Shooters Supplies

Winchester Copper Impact

Winchester originally developed their Copper Impact line of ammunition in parallel with their Deer Season XP line to provide some lead free ammo options for deer hunters. Those two ammo lines were well received by the hunting community. This eventually led to the expansion of the line to include lead free 6.5 PRC ammo as well.

Just like the other loadings in that line, Winchester Copper Impact 6.5 PRC ammunition uses a solid copper bullet design with a large diameter polymer tip that’s specifically designed to produce a gigantic wound channel along with massive impact trauma.

Additionally, this bullet will retain weight and penetrate extremely well since it is a monolithic design.

The end result is a bullet that expands rapidly, transfers a lot of energy to the animal for devastating terminal performance, and will still penetrate through thick hide, heavy muscles, and solid bone to reach the vitals of very large game from most reasonable shot angles.

The 6.5 PRC loading also has decent G1 BC of .428, which is pretty good for a lead free bullet. Using moderate powder charges, it does not quite have ballistics on par with some of the other 6.5 PRC ammo options on this list, but it still performs extremely well and offers excellent performance at short range as well as for longer range shooting.

While this loading will indeed work great on deer-sized game, it’s not limited to just deer either and should work great for bigger and tougher game like feral hogs, black bear, and even potentially elk. For this reason, Winchester re-branded this ammo to drop the “Deer Season” moniker and just go with “Copper Impact” instead.

Finally, this ammo is a great choice for use in states like California and is another California legal 6.5 PRC factory ammo option.

• Bullet Type: Winchester Copper Extreme Point
• Bullet Weight: 125 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .428
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,875 feet per second

GET COPPER IMPACT 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Brownells

Nosler Ballistic Tip

Nosler also offers a 6.5 PRC loading using a 140 grain Ballistic Tip bullet. This bullet is also an outstanding choice for hunting thin-skinned game like deer and pronghorn.

Ballistic Tip bullets are designed to deliver devastating terminal effects to game upon impact. Nothing is guaranteed, but these bullets often deliver instant, knock down results on deer sized game.

All things considered, Nosler Ballistic Tip 6.5 PRC ammo is an ideal choice for use on deer sized game like feral hogs, pronghorn, mule deer, and whitetail deer at close range as well as extended range. They also tend to shoot very accurately in most 6.5 PRC rifles.

As the saying goes, there’s no such thing as a free lunch.

Those bullets expand rapidly and deliver incredible shock upon impact, but they don’t penetrate very well. This isn’t usually an issue with deer-sized game, but I do NOT recommend using Nosler Ballistic Tip ammo for bigger game like elk or moose.

Instead, stick to game like whitetail deer, mule deer, and pronghorn with the 140 grain Ballistic Tip. You’ll probably be very happy with the results if you do that.

• Bullet Type: Nosler Ballistic Tip
• Bullet Weight: 140 grains
• Ballistic Coefficient (G1): .509
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,900 feet per second (2,614 foot-pounds of energy)

GET BALLISTIC TIP 6.5 PRC AMMO HERE

Also Available at: Cabela’s and Sportsman’s Warehouse

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NEXT: BEST 6.5 GRENDEL AMMO FOR HUNTING ELK, DEER, & OTHER BIG GAME

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The IGFA world record for crappie has stood since 2018 and is held by a Tennessee angler who caught the 5lb 5oz black crappie on a jig.

In this article, we provide full details of that record fish caught in Tennessee and a bunch of other notable crappie records, including the 50-year-old record for white crappie that has really stood the test of time.

Crappie, slabs, bricks, hogs, specks, white perch- no matter what you call them, nothing is quite as sweet as catching a huge crappie. Imagine your excitement at not only catching a beast but finding out it’s the new world record. Read on to find out more about crappie records and some hints on how to catch trophy crappie.

The Current IGFA World Record Black Crappie

• Date: 2018
• Location: Loudon County, Tennessee
• Angler: Lionel “Jam” Ferguson
• Weight: 5lbs 5oz
• Length: 19.75″

On May 15, 2018, Lionel “Jam” Ferguson of Paint Rock, Tennessee, got off work and did a little fishing. It was warm and muggy, and he was having a slow day bass fishing, so he moved to another spot he knew in the Philadelphia area of Loudon County, Tennessee.

Richeison Pond, a privately owned farm pond, was just a short distance away, and he had caught a few bigger fish from the pond in the past. He began lazily casting and retrieving a Triple Threat John Deere colored grub on a ⅛ oz jig head. His slow retrieve worked. An enormous fish grabbed the bait and dove.

Jam and the fish battled until he got the fish into shallow water. At this point, Jam knew it was a big crappie and didn’t want to lose his fish, so he jumped in the water and pulled it out by hand. The black crappie weighed five pounds, five ounces, and was nineteen and three-quarters inches long.

At the urging of his buddy, Jam took it to a local grocery store and had it weighed on certified scales, then contacted the Tennessee Wildlife Resources Agency. Once the Tennessee wildlife officer certified the weight and length, Jam wrapped the fish in wet towels and froze it until he found out if it was a state record.

Ferguson’s catch was not only the new Tennessee state record; it was also the new black crappie world record. The fish has since been mounted and tagged.

World Record White Crappie

• Date: 1957
• Location: Yocona River, Mississippi
• Angler: Fred Bright
• Weight: 5lbs 3oz
• Length: 21″

The white crappie world record has stood for over 50 years. The fish was caught near Enid Dam on the Yocona River in Yolabusha County, Mississippi, on July 31, 1957. Angler Fred Bright was fishing artificial bait on a fast action rod with a Denison Johnson reel when the five-pound, three-ounce fish grabbed the bait and ran. After capture, the fish’s weight and length were certified by an officer from the state of Mississippi, and DNA testing confirmed that the fish was a world record white crappie that weighed five pounds, three ounces, and measured twenty-one inches in length. See here for info on the differences between black crappie and white crappie.

Other Notable Crappie Captures

You remember Lionel Jam Ferguson, who caught the world record black crappie in that little farm pond. This one-acre private pond in Loudon County, Tennessee, might not have many fish in it, but it seems they are all about the same size. Just a few years before his world record, Jam caught a crappie weighing four pounds, four ounces from this same pond. Not realizing that it might be a record, Jam took the fish home and ate it.

Before Jam Ferguson caught his world record black crappie, John Horstman had the previous record. He landed a 5-pound, 19-inch black crappie back in 2006 while fishing in a private lake near his home in Callaway County, Missouri. After his catch was weighed and certified, Horstman donated it to Bass Pro Shops, where the fish lived in the aquarium at the company headquarters in Springfield, Missouri, until its death earlier this year.

Another massive crappie catch was that of Clear Lake Outdoors owner Dave Burruss of Lakeport, California. On February 17, 2021, while bass fishing, Burruss spotted three large fish on the screen of Garmin Livescope fish finder. He threw out a 4-inch Keitech Easy Shiner on twelve-pound test. He says it took 30 seconds to pull in the four-pound, five-ounce black crappie. The fish was larger than the previous state record, and after being weighed on a certified scale, it was officially named the new California state record.

Best Locations To Try For a New World Record

Crappie fishing has been associated with the southern United States for years, but more anglers are going after crappies in other states. Crappie fish actually live in forty-eight of the fifty states. The only places they are not naturally occurring are Alaska and Hawaii.

Crappie prefer to live in warmer water, which is why most of the world record fish seem to come from Alabama, Missouri, Tennessee, Mississippi, Arkansas, Louisiana, and Kentucky.

The best time of the year to fish for crappie is late spring. In the southern states, that usually means mid-April to early May, when the days are warming up but the nights are still cool. Crappie won’t begin their spring spawn until water temperature reaches 57 degrees. Even then, they prefer to spawn in slightly deeper water than other panfish. Start dropping your bait around weeds and brush piles in the three to four-foot deep range.

If you are searching for the perfect place to catch one of these monster fish, there are a few things to look for.

• There is plenty of cover- weeds, tree tops, rocks, etc.
• The water gets deeper in the middle (at least 8 feet or more).
• There is algae, phytoplankton, and zooplankton in the water.
• The water is brackish rather than crystal clear.
• The bottom has more of a sandy than muddy texture.

If you must fish in clearer water, fish deep. In brackish water, they won’t be so deep unless it is very cold or very hot out. For those living on a lake or pond, here are some tips for attracting crappie to your dock.

See also:

• Crappie Fishing Gear List
• How to Catch Crappie: Some Killer Tips
• Best Lures for Crappie Fishing

Best Baits and Lures for World Record Crappie

Crappie feed on living things, for the most part, and big crappie eat bigger things than smaller ones do. Don’t be afraid to pull your bass lures out of the tackle box and give them a try. Personally, I know at least one crappie was caught on a rubber frog in the weeds this summer.

Live minnows or small shiners suspended over brush piles, fallen logs, and recognizable spawning beds are always a hit.

Other common lures to try are:

• Small, deep diving crank baits presented slowly in deep water
• Silver spinners or spoons thrown across logs or at the edge of weed beds
• Lightweight jig heads with colored grub or skirt bodies
• An umbrella rig can also be effective for crappie

In dark or brackish water: white, chartreuse, pink and white, lime, red and white, gold

In clear water: white, chartreuse, black and white, dark blue, brown, motor oil color

For rods and reels for crappie, check out this article on choosing a good combo for crappie fishing.

How Records Are Measured and Verified

All fish state records and world records are maintained by the International Game Fish Association (IGFA) in a public database. Once a large fish is caught, local wildlife officers weigh it using a scale that has been calibrated and certified by a scientific lab. These types of scales can be found in grocers, packing houses, and other locations. State wildlife offices should also have a calibrated scale.

After verifying that the fish is larger than any previous records held in the state, by searching the IGFA database, an angler can fill out the application for examination, DNA testing, and measurement of the catch. If the IGFA determines the fish is a record, the angler will be credited, and the record will be uploaded into the database.

See also:

• Fly Fishing For Crappie
• The Best Ice Fishing Lures for Crappie Reviewed
• Best times to Catch Crappie
• Best Hook Sizes for Crappie Fishing

Final Thoughts on Record Crappie

Most anglers aren’t going to catch a crappie the size of Jam Ferguson’s catch. Huge crappies are not that plentiful, but fishing for crappie of any size is lots of fun. If you are lucky enough to catch a big slab that you think might be a record, immediately contact your local wildlife resources officer to begin the certification process. Your record catch may or may not be a new state record, but you won’t know unless you have it measured.

One of the most appealing new Tikkas, a T3 Lite, weights in at just 6 ¼ pounds — as lightweight as seems useful to me. Less heft and the rifle bounces like a clothesline in the wind. When you’re puffing after a climb or must curb the effects of pulse to shoot far, rifle mass is your friend. It helps mitigate recoil, too. A sling and scope quickly bring six-pound rifles to seven. A full magazine adds ounces. Occasionally I’ve wished for more. But after long hours on the trail, I’ll take 7.5.

Then T3 has a two-lug bolt with a 70-degree lift and disassembles quickly by hand into four major components. Its recessed face has a plunger ejector and a Sako extractor.

The T3’s receiver is slim but stiff due to a small ejection port. Rails machined into the receiver’s roof accept 17mm clamp rings, but the rifle is also drilled and tapped. The recoil lug is a steel insert in the stock that engages a slot in the action.

While early Tikka bolt rifles came in two action lengths, the T3 is built on one, with two bolt stops for different cartridge lengths. Single-stack three-shot magazines are of lightweight polymer. They can be loaded only when out of the rifle. You can buy deep boxes that hold more cartridges. A flush magazine latch is out of the way in front of the well.

The stock (walnut or synthetic) has a long grip and a comfortable pitch. It comes with spacers to lengthen the butt. Shadow ridges on the fore-end, with raised rubber-like panels there and on the grip, help you grasp the rifle with wet or cold hands. Deep fluting at the comb nose welcomes the heel of your hand. The stock doesn’t contact the hammer-forged barrel. A steel stock insert engaging a slot in the receiver serves as recoil lug.

Trigger pull on Tikka’s T3 adjusts from two to four pounds. The test rifle’s came in at 3.5. The trigger guard is the only alloy component on a T3 action; all others are of steel, save the polymer magazine and bolt shroud. A red cocking indicator protrudes from the striker race. A two-position safety locks bolt and trigger. The bolt shank is the right length for me, just long enough for easy cycling from the shoulder. The hollow, pear-shaped knob is gracefully curved and easy to grasp.

I’ve several Tikka’s, and all but a .270 WSM printed groups inside a minute of angle. The T3 Lite I tested for this article shot 140-grain Winchester AccuBonds into a 0.4-inch group, and with four of five additional loads I got 0.7-inch groups — and all loads shot well inside the 11/2-inch standard I impose on bolt-action hunting rifles. Indeed, the average best-group measure for this T3 was just half that.

Overall, the T3 Lite is technically excellent, it has a gunny feel that can’t be described but as certainly cannot be faked. The bolt glides. The trigger breaks consistently, although at 3.5 pounds it tested my control. Cartridges cycle without bumps. Shut your eyes, cheek a T3 Lite, and when you look through the scope, I suspect you’ll find the crosswire on target. Still, the Lite puts spring in your step after long days afield.

No, it’s not perfect. The safety is hard to feel with a mittened thumb. And I’d like an adjustment for sear engagement. But those changes would add expense to an affordable rifle that’s already accurate, nimble in the hand and easy to shoot well from hunting positions.

Want a lively, lightweight rifle with killer looks and Crisco-smooth cycling? One with dime-tight accuracy and a trigger that brings out the best in you? It’s here, from Finland.

Fast Specs

Type: bolt action centerfire; 2 locking lugs, Sako-style extractor, plunger ejector.Caliber: 7mm Rem. Mag. (tested), .300 Win. Mag., .338 Win. Mag.Feed System: 3-round single-column detachable polymer box magazineBarrel: 24 in. sporter-weight, hammer-forged; 1:9½ twist.Weight: 6 lbs. 6 oz.Stock: black fiberglass-reinforced polymer with rubber buttpad.Metal: brushed stainless (tested), blue chrome-molyFire control: adjustable steel trigger (3.5 pounds as tested); two-position safety locks boltSights: none; receiver grooved and drilledPrice: $659Distributor: Beretta USA

Accuracy Results

Smallest group: 140 gr. Winchester AccuBond — 0.4 in.Largest group: (tie) 140 gr. Remington CoreLokt Ultra, 165 gr. Federal Sierra GameKing — 1.1 in.Due to challenging range conditions, author submitted only the best of three-shot groups at 100 yards.

Caption 1: The Tikka T3 Lite is a svelte, accurate rifle perfect for those who cover a lot of ground when they hunt.

Caption 2: The Tikka T3 feeds from a single-column polymer magazine and operated without a hitch.

Caption 3: The two-lug bolt offers a 70-degree lift and features a Sako-style extractor.

Caption 4: Like most Tikkas, the T3 Lite demonstrated excellent accuracy.

Walleye fishing is a popular and enjoyable activity for anglers across the world. One of the most effective techniques for catching walleye is using jigs.

Walleye jigs are specially designed lures that mimic the natural movements of prey fish, which walleye typically feed on. They are available in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and each has its unique features that make it effective in certain fishing conditions.

Whether you are a seasoned angler or a beginner, understanding the different types of jigs, how to choose the right one, and how to use them can significantly increase your chances of a successful catch.

In this article, we will cover everything you need to know about walleye jigs, including the different types, factors to consider when choosing them, tips for using them, and the best ones to use in different water conditions.

Types of Walleye Jigs

Walleye jigs come in various shapes, sizes, and styles, and each has its unique characteristics that make it effective in certain fishing conditions. Here are some of the most popular types of walleye jigs:

Roundhead Walleye Jigs

Roundhead jigs are the most common type of walleye jig. They have a round head and a single hook and are available in various sizes and weights. They are versatile and can be used in a wide range of fishing conditions.

Standup Walleye Jigs

Standup jigs have a flat-bottomed head and a vertical line tie that causes them to stand upright on the bottom. They are effective in rocky areas and can also be used in weeds.

Weedless Walleye Jigs

Weedless jigs are designed to be fished in weedy areas without getting caught up in the vegetation. They have a hook that is recessed in the jig’s body, making it difficult for weeds to snag it.

Swimbait Walleye Jigs

Swimbait jigs are similar to roundhead jigs but have a longer shank and a wider gap hook. They are used with soft plastic swimbaits and are effective when fishing in deeper water.

Bucktail Walleye Jigs

Bucktail jigs are made with a hair or feather skirt and are effective in clear water. They mimic the movements of baitfish and are best used with a slow retrieve.

Factors to Consider When Choosing a Walleye Jig

Choosing the right walleye jig is essential for a successful fishing trip. Here are some factors to consider when selecting a walleye jig:

1. Water Depth The depth of the water you’re fishing in is an important consideration when choosing a jig. Roundhead jigs are effective in shallow water, while standup jigs work best in deeper water. Swimbait jigs and blade baits are ideal for fishing in depths of 20 feet or more.
2. Water Clarity The clarity of the water also plays a crucial role in jig selection. In clear water, use jigs with natural colors and avoid using ones with bright colors that might spook the fish. In murky water, use jigs with bright colors that stand out and attract the fish.
3. Time of Day and Season The time of day and season can also affect the effectiveness of the jig. During early mornings and late afternoons, use jigs with brighter colors to increase visibility. In the winter, when the water is colder, use smaller jigs with slower retrieves.
4. Structure of the Lake The structure of the lake, such as rocks, weeds, and drop-offs, can influence jig selection. Use weedless jigs when fishing in weedy areas to avoid getting snagged, and use standup jigs when fishing in rocky areas to prevent snagging.

Consider these factors when selecting a walleye jig, and you’ll be well on your way to hooking into some big ones.

Tips for Using Walleye Jigs

Using walleye jigs can be a highly effective way to catch fish, but it’s important to use them correctly. Here are some tips for using walleye jigs:

1. Cast and Retrieve Technique One of the most common ways to use a jig is with the cast and retrieve technique. Cast the jig out and let it sink to the bottom, then retrieve it with short, quick jerks to make the jig bounce off the bottom. Vary the speed and depth of your retrieve until you find what works best.
2. Jigging Technique Jigging is a popular technique for catching walleye with jigs. Let the jig sink to the bottom and then use a sharp upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom, then let it sink back down. Repeat this motion, varying the speed and intensity of the jigging until you get a bite.
3. Drift Technique Drifting is an excellent technique for covering a large area of water quickly. Simply drift with the wind or current, casting the jig out periodically and allowing it to sink to the bottom.
4. Vertical Jigging Technique Vertical jigging is an effective technique for fishing in deep water. Position your boat over the desired spot and drop the jig straight down, letting it fall to the bottom. Then, use an upward motion of the rod tip to lift the jig off the bottom and repeat the motion until you get a bite.

By using these techniques, you’ll be able to catch walleye with jigs more effectively. Don’t be afraid to experiment with different techniques until you find what works best for you.

Best Walleye Jigs to Use

Selecting the right jig can make all the difference in your walleye fishing success. Here are some recommendations for the best walleye jigs to use:

1. Northland Fishing Tackle Fire-Ball Jig: The Fire-Ball Jig is a versatile and effective jig that is designed to imitate the movements of baitfish. It has a short-shank hook that allows you to thread on a live minnow or soft plastic bait. It’s available in various colors and sizes and is ideal for fishing in shallow to mid-depth water.
2. Rapala Jigging Rap: The Jigging Rap is a popular jigging lure that features a balanced design and a center treble hook. It mimics the movement of a dying baitfish and is effective in both shallow and deep water. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
3. VMC Neon Moon Eye Jig: The Neon Moon Eye Jig is a versatile jig that features a unique 3D holographic eye and a super sharp hook. It’s available in various sizes and colors and is ideal for fishing in clear water.
4. B-Fish-N Tackle H2O Precision Jigs: The H2O Precision Jig is a high-quality jig that features a custom-designed head and a super sharp hook. It’s ideal for fishing in weeds and can be used with live bait or soft plastics. It’s available in various sizes and colors.
5. Keitech Tungsten Super Round Jig Head: The Super Round Jig Head is a weedless jig that features a tungsten head and a screw-lock bait keeper. It’s available in various sizes and is ideal for fishing in weedy areas.

These are just a few of the best walleye jigs to use. When selecting a jig, consider the water conditions and factors outlined in section III, and choose a jig that best fits your needs. Remember to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you.

Conclusion

Fishing for walleye with jigs can be a thriling and rewarding experience, but it takes knowledge and skill to be successful. By understanding the different types of walleye jigs, the factors to consider when choosing them, and the tips for using them effectively, you’ll significantly increase your chances of catching more fish.

Remember to select a jig that best fits your needs based on the water conditions and factors outlined in this article. Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment with different jigs and techniques until you find what works best for you. With the right knowledge, skills, and equipment, you’ll be well on your way to reeling in the big ones and enjoying epic fishing adventures.

For 25 years Green Bay Trophy Fishing has guided and provided helpful information to anglers in and around Door County. We are some of the most experienced fishing guides in Green Bay and pride ourselves on being experts on everything related to fishing in the area.

If you are interested in booking a walleye fishing charter, you can view our rates or contact us here.