Before the season begins, and once the scouting is over, sometimes you realize that you might need a little extra help when it comes to attracting those deer. Why waste your time with a simple corn pile? Why not go out and get the best deer attractant to guarantee success?

While searching for the top options, it’s important to remember that there are several kinds out there – Spread, Spray, Plot, Mineral, etc. Each type provides its own pros and cons, as well as the best picks within each category.

This blog focuses on the four major types of deer attractants and calls out the attractant we think is best for its intended purpose. Enjoy the comparison chart below and some top questions we decided to answer before choosing a deer attractant.

Full Disclosure: Some of the links below may be affiliate links. If you follow an affiliate link and end up making a purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you.

Best Overall Deer Attractant

Wildgame Innovations Acorn Rage

While it might not be the newest item on the list, it sure has been time-tested – and the results speak for themselves. The Wildgame Innovations Acorn Rage deer attractant is our top pick for 2024 because it’s the most popular and highly reviewed option on the market.

The Acorn Rage pretty much guarantees deer will come to your stand, and it’s something I can personally attest to. I’ve not only used this attractant for the past several hunting seasons, but I’ve noticed that deer are more likely to return to areas where this used.

It’s widely known that acorns are at the top of the list when it comes to prized deer food, and what’s more convenient than having it an easy to disperse pack?

Pro Tip: Deer attractant minerals release slowly over time, and can create an active mineral site for up to a year, improving your deer feeder location over time.

Other Top Technological Features include the following:

This blend is made out of 100% real acorns and roasted soybeans to create a nutritional snack with jam-packed scent. It’s also combined with Wildgame’s Airborne Technology which disperse 600% more scent particles than standard feed – WOW! You can mark this down as a solid long-range buck attractant too.

As far as actual specifications, the mix is 17% fat and 28% protein, with 11% fiber. It’s also high in rack nutrition and can be used year around (similar to other deer protein feeds). Because of this, man hunters say this is the best deer attractant for summer.

Best Deer Attractant Spray

Nationwide Scents Scrape Lure Deer Attractant Urine

Nationwide Scents has been producing authentic, field tested scents for nearly 20 years, and they continue to be a reliable tool for many deer hunters. Their Scrape Lure Deer Attractant Urine is our top deer attractant spray for 2024 because of the authentic urine collected from Nationwide.

The Pure Active deer attractant spray is a great option for year around use, but does exceptionally well in early to late rut. The performance is all in the recipe, which is above industry standard. Check this out:

Fun Fact: Nationwide Scents is the largest deer urine collection company in the world.

Other top technological features include the following:

Nationwide Scents facility holds over 600 live whitetail deer and collects all urine in their state-of-the-art stainless-steel facility. Additionally, it’s all collected fresh that season for best results.

As far as quality, the company is a certified member of the RHSA and all of their scents are CWD certified free. If you don’t like it, Nationwide Scents guarantees all of their products and will make the purchase right!

Of course, from personal experience, I’m not that big of a fan of liquid lures just because they are so messy. I always

Best Deer Attractant To Plant

Antler King No Sweat, No-Till Plot Mix

All whitetail deer hunters would love to create their own multi-acre food plot, ensuring they have a solid setup for the season. However, not everyone has the land or the equipment to get it done. The Antler King No Sweat, No-Till is the best deer attract to plant because it requires minimal tools and effort to reach its full potential.

The No Sweat, No-Till deer attractant mix is great for those with limited space, or if you’ve found a nice pocket but can’t get equipment to it. If you’re asking, “Is it really no till?” then the answer is – YES! Antler King has created a shade tolerant mix that will grow almost anywhere with minimal preparation.

This attractant is a mix of perennial and annual seeds that can be planted in either Spring of Fall. Additionally, it also contains varieties of oats, rye, clover, canola and more.

One final note, Antler King has provided a handy food plot mix chart for all their products!

Best Mineral Deer Attractant

Big & J Headrush

Big & J is best known for taking salt based supplements (which deer love) and using added technology to advance their performance. This is best established in the strongest mineral deer attractant we could find – the Big & J Headrush.

The Headrush deer attractant is a perfect combination of pure supplement and attractant for whitetail deer hunters across the nation. The added Calcium is key to antler growth, while the product’s Bioavaible Trace Minerals contribute to overall herd health.

The attractant’s greatest feature is their BB2 Aroma, which creates a strong scent that will pull in deer from long ranges. This concoction, which contributes to a deer’s energy level, is a property blend that drives deer wild!

Honestly, the science in this product is just too much to summarize. For a full story about all its benefits, check out the link below to be amazed even more.

FAQs When Buying Deer Attractant

1. What Is The Best Deer Attractant To Mix With Corn?

Overall, the best deer attractant to mix with corn is going to be the GYT 90 liquid mix.

This particular nutritional supplement combination is great during the summer months as deer are more accustomed to consuming corn with agricultural fields being so prevalent.

This mix also provides great benefits during the winter months. The high fat crude soybean oil serves as a strong attractant, helps them gain weight, and provides many essential minerals for antler growth.

2. What’s The Best Deer Attractant For Late Season?

Attracting deer during late season can be difficult as traveling patterns are quickly becoming more disrupted. Priorities obviously change for both younger and older bucks, while does split and go beyond their normal feeding trails.

And to locate the feeding trails, try to pay attention to deer poop and what it means. If you find an a large amount of deer pellets in one location, that look to be evenly spread out, this is a great indicator of a feeding location. Deer typically defecate frequently while grazing.

You might be able to attract deer with a stronger acorn or apple scent mix, or by using active scape scents like those provided by Nationwide Scents. However, it’s going to be somewhat difficult with a standard spread mix or simple corn pile.

Keep in mind that as it gets colder air odor molecules move more slowly through the air, making it tougher to pick up scent. As a result, using long range mineral scent attractants can combat this if combined with beneficial wind conditions.

3. Can You Make Homemade Deer Attractant?

Yes, you can make homemade deer attract very easily. For the best homemade DIY deer attractant recipes check out the links below:

Animals Mom

Gone Outdoors

Feather Net Outdoors

4. Does Molasses Attract Deer?

Yes, molasses can be used to attract deer due to its strong and sweet aroma. Most standard attractant blocks use molasses as a bonding agent to hold everything together while enhancing the scent.

Introduction

If you define the effective range as the distance a shooter can deliver a hit to a man-sized target, then the maximum effective range for a 9mm round fired from a handgun is about 1800 meters. If it sounds absurd, it is because the assumption is ridiculous.

However, the estimate takes into account match grade ammo when fired from a perfectly maintained weapon and by a skilled marksman in a stable shooting position. The target is motionless and at a known distance in the perfect environmental conditions.

The basic answer to this question varies based on the gun and the shooter abilities. The safe estimate for both target and combat shooting is, however, between 25 and 50 meters. And this estimate is for the average effective range for an average shooter using average equipment on an average day. Significantly less because there are just so many factors to account for.

From experience, a reasonably skilled shooter with a 9mm handgun may be able to hit a man-sized target out to a hundred yards on a practice range. Sometimes 200 yards and that is if the gods of luck smile. In the real world, in cases of life and death situations, or self-defense shootings, it is quite common for shooters to miss their targets seven out of ten times within a few yards distance.

=> Check latest 9mm ammo prices

What is a Pistol For?

To expand on this question we must understand the purpose of having a pistol and its primary use. You have to ask yourself, what is the use of a handgun? A pistol was never intended to be a battle weapon. In combat situations, it plays the role of the sword in the bygone eras and it is used as a last resort. Compared to a rifle, the handgun is a prosecuting firearm at close quarter combat.

Rarely are handguns used in hunting and the 9mm is not a hunting cartridge. But for the most part, a handgun’s primary purpose is a personal defense weapon. Personal defense does not include a range beyond 25 yards. Throughout history, most personal defense situations are between 10 yards or closer. I see a scenario where one tries to explain to a jury an assailant more than 30-40 feet away puts you at risk of causing you grievous bodily harm or death.

If it was in the defense of others, 25 yards is still far enough away, and I estimate it to be the limit of the average shooter to get a sure hit. However, the consequences of missing could still be tragic and all individual shooters with a 9mm handgun must know the effective range of the cartridge. It is also imperative that one knows their overall effective range.

What Affects the Effective Range of a 9mm Handgun

The effective range of a 9mm handgun has two interwoven components. That is the distance the cartridge can kill with a lethal hit and the likelihood of an average person making a lethal hit at a given range.

Range

If you consider the range, a 9mm has a potential killing power out to several hundred yards. As a practical matter, an average shooter can consistently make a hit within less than 30 yards. If you also use a scope with your handgun then the effective range and accuracy increase tremendously.

Barrel length

Shooting at long range is challenging as the pistol is the most difficult to master as the bullets are very slow and this makes them arc a lot at long range. But if the pistol barrel becomes longer, that distance increases. If the sight radius of a pistol is elongated, the sighting becomes easier and accuracy increases.

We need to differentiate between lethality and effectiveness. Bullets can be lethal at any distance as long as it still has its stopping power. But at very long distances, a human-size target is smaller than the front sight post, and this reduces accuracy. At this point, you will just be lobbying rounds and hoping to hit something.

For the average shooter, trying to get a hit rate at 100 meters with a handgun is world-class shooting.

Action

The effective range also depends on the gun that fires the round. A bolt action rifle does not use propelling gas to operate or reload mechanism. Both semi-auto and automatic rifles use some propellant gas to reload. The gas comes from a hole in the last piece of the barrel.

Most pistols are designed to reload immediately and if there are lots of propelling gas escaping the wrong way the shot power is compromised. Therefore, the amount of propelling gas ultimately affects the effective range of a handgun.

For example, a Glock 17 has an effective range of 25meters. The range is only for the pistol though and not the bullet. If the same bullet from a pistol is fired from a pistol caliber carbine a shooter can be very accurate at those distances and slightly higher.

Stock/Design

If you buy the .22 Long Rifle rimfire round you must have seen the warning it embodies on the box.

“Dangerous Within One Mile.”

Most handguns like the 9mm are chambered and tuned for reliability and not so much pinpoint accuracy. The sights are designed to withstand abuse and allow a shooter to have a rapid visual acquisition. It means that most pistols are for short-range use.

The delivery system is what limits the range, and for most service pistols, to hit fifty yards under street conditions is a difficult and long shot to take and make a hit.

What is the Lethal Range of a 9mm?

There is no definitive answer for this as well. But if you ask me, I will place it at 50 yards give or take. And that is a pretty lucky shot if the circumstances are favorable.

The variables include the 9mm ammo brand and power, the rifling in the barrel, the accuracy of the pistol, and its constructive impact on the bullet’s trajectory. Also, you must factor the external conditions that include density and moisture among others.

Now, a lethal range certainly means a handgun capable of inflicting deadly or serious damage to a person or animal. Also, consider that there is no limit for any safe and out of bounds area. I mean that fluke shots are still lethal although the target is far away and the shot unintended.

Other factors that make a shot lethal include, point of entry, impact angle, and area of entry. There are a whole lot of things that could make a shot lethal or not. Sometimes at close range, a bullet may pass through flesh missing vital organs and therefore inflicting only flesh wounds instead of fatality.

Therefore, despite all the arguments of the lethal range, the first rule of gun handling is to ensure that firearms are always pointed downwards. Always practice safe use to ensure your safety and the safety of others around you.

How Far Does a 9mm Bullet Travel?

There are some variables that we must consider before we give a blanket answer. First, is based on the type of 9mm round. Some ammo is loaded at a higher pressure and will leave the gun faster than others. Other bullet shapes will cause less drag than others.

Also, the type of firearm will determine the velocity of a bullet. Longer barrels allow the bullet to reach higher initial velocities than a short barrel handgun

Understanding Velocity

If you already know the velocity at which the bullet will fall, then all we need to do is calculate how fast it travels when it leaves the barrel. For example, a standard 115-grain bullet leaves the 4.5-inch barrel of a typical handgun at about 1100 feet per second.

When calculating velocity, it is essential to know that all guns fire bullets at a small upward angle. The reason is that the sights are “zeroed” at some distance. For handguns, the distance is about 25 yards

Understanding Drag

When you fire a bullet it travels through a medium. In this case it is air. The bullet slows down because of the friction caused by the medium. It is what we refer to as drag. Drag varies with the ballistic coefficient of the bullet as this is determined by the shape of the bullet. A 9mm handgun bullet, having a round, as opposed to a spire nose will not have a very good ballistic coefficient.

9mm versus .40 Smith & Wesson

There are three key things to consider when picking the best self-defense caliber.

Cost

Everywhere you go, wisdom dictates that shot placement is more important than the caliber you use to shoot. It does not mean that calibers do not have an impact on a shooter’s outcome. Small rounds may not penetrate bones or breastplate when hunting.

Caliber does matter. However, the emphasis on shot placement is to remind you that when you miss it is the same as shooting a zero caliber bullet. Therefore, shot placement is not necessarily king but rather it is the proficiency of the firearm you will use. It is why the cost of the ammo matters.

For example, if a 9mm costs about 14 cents a round. And a.40 S&W costs about 19 cents a round.

There is only a 5 cent difference. Eventually, it all adds up though. Suppose you use 1000 rounds that means you pay about $80 more for your ammunition when shooting with the .40 S&W.

Regardless of your budget, if you shoot the 9mm you will get more training for your money, and therefore become more proficient with your gun. In effect, you will have a better-shot placement.

Recoil

The .40 S&W is essentially just a short 10mm round, therefore it features a higher breach pressure than the 9mm. Because it is a heavy round, the .40 S&W has more felt recoil.

High-pressure rounds that produce a recoil impulse can be uncomfortable for some shooters and also more challenging to shoot with one hand.

If a shooter spends time and resources training to shoot with the same handgun, chambered in 9mm, in the end, they become faster and more precise. There is less recoil energy to absorb and control in a 9mm round.

Magazine Capacity

I cannot see a situation where having more rounds is not better. Take the context of self-defense, reloading can be impossible. To reduce the chances of having to reload, the magazine capacity should be high.

Provided you are comparing two guns of the same size, the 9mm will always have a higher magazine capacity than .40 S&W. Therefore, a 9mm handgun enables you to perform better than .40 S&W.

However, the .40 S&W is also a perfectly viable self-defense round. Though it takes more training, it is a darling to many shooters.

Conclusion

But, if you want to shoot a lot and also want to be a better shot for less money, you should consider using a 9mm handgun for both home and personal defense. It is a sure way to save money and time without compromising defensive performance.

Broadsword takes the Barnes bullet for a spin. Is the original copper projectile that kicked off the lead-free revolution still the best?

Next in our line of lead-free bullet tests are the .30 cals on offer from Barnes in their Triple Shock X bullet range, which was introduced in 2003. These offer an all-copper bullet with a traditional hollow-point design in the TSX format, or faster expanding projectiles with the newer TTSX bullets with their polymer tip and larger hollow point format. Barnes offer a very good range of both bullet styles as well as variety of calibres, so there is something for everyone and every rifle type.

As usual we are trying to find a sweet spot where the lead-free bullets perform the same ballistically down range as traditional lead-cored bullets of the same weight, thus giving the shooter a viable lead-free option when the time comes – if you can get any!

Bullet specificationsThe TSX and TTSX bullets are not the same dimensionally. Different bullet lengths have implications on load density and accuracy as well as overall cartridge length, but we will discuss that in future articles. At present I am trying to load like for like to see the similarities and differences.

TSXThis is the original Triple Shock-style bullet from Barnes, with an all-copper construction available in flat base and boat tail designs. The 110gr TSX weighs 110.2gr, is 0.9540″ long, 0.3070″ in diameter, and has two smooth cannelure/pressure rings called Accu-Grooves and a flat base. The hollow point is very neat and uniform, and when sectioned can be seen to extend 0.4250″ into the bullet – but it is very narrow, as is the opening. This bullet has a sectional density (SD) of 0.166 and ballistic coefficient (BC) of 0.264, with an overall length of 0.955″.The 130gr TSX weighs 130.6gr, is 1.0860″ long with the same 0.3070″ diameter, Accu-Grooves and hollow point design, but this time with a slight boat-tail base. The SD is good at 0.196, as is the BC at 0.340 G1 – a very nice blend of values.The 150gr TSX as expected is 1.2365″ long, with a more obvious boat tail, and the same hollow point and diameter as the others, but with three Accu-Grooves to relieve stress/friction and fouling. A decent SD of 0.226 helps penetration and the BC of 0.369 value helps retain energy with a more streamlined flight.

TTSXThis is essentially the TSX bullet with an added tip for better aerodynamics, hence the enhanced BC values as well as better terminal expansion with its redesigned nose cavity.There is a 130gr TTSX bullet option but I could not get any for the tests. The 110gr TTSX weighs 110.4gr and is 1.0425″ long with a diameter of 0.3060″. It has a flat base, two Accu-Grooves and a large blue polymer tip 0.1825″ long and 0.1465″ in diameter, giving a better overall hollow point than the TSX bullet. When sectioned, the bullets have a larger hollow point channel for nearly half their overall length. The sectional density is the same as in the TSX with the same weight obviously but the BC has increased to 0.295 due to the more streamline tipped bullet meplat.The TTSX 150gr bullet weighs 151.0gr and is 1.3015″ long and again slimmer than the TSX bullets at 0.3060″, which is slightly curious. There are Accu-Grooves, resulting in three distinct riding rings and there is a shallow boat tail and the same polymer tip as on the 110gr TTSX. The 110gr TTSX’s SD of 0.226 is identical to the same weight TSX version but the polymer tip boosts the BC to 0.420 – a sizeable improvement over the 0.369 for the same weight TSX bullet.Standing the bullets side by side, you can instantly see the differences in height and overall aerodynamic design despite having the same weights. Most of this is the extra tip of the TTSX bullets, but the cannelure positioning is also different. Because the hollow points and expansion channel are bigger on the TTSX, the bullet has to be longer to achieve the same weight as the TSX bullet. A separate article on OAL/accuracy for all bullets tested will appear in a subsequent issue.

ReloadsI tested the Barnes bullets the same day as the Nosler lead-free E-Tips in a previous article, and therefore used the same control sample of Nosler Ballistic Tip bullets as a comparison for lead-cored bullet performance. The numbers in brackets are the Harrell Premium Culver powder values I use for instant powder measuring. I tried to match the velocities as best I could to get a true reflection of each bullet’s down-range performance.

ResultsWe are trying to see what weight a Barnes bullet needs to be to achieve the same wound channel and expansion/penetration as a corresponding weight traditional lead-cored bullet.

Ballistically the TSX and TTSX were similar to the Nosler Ballistic Tip control group when loaded with the same powder/primer, etc. But as always, the harder Barnes gave at least 50fps faster velocities. A lead-cored bullet’s jacket gives a little when travelling down the bore, while the solid-cored Barnes are more rigid, causing a pressure increase and thus more velocity. That’s why the TSX and TTSX have cannelures to relieve the pressure a little and reduce copper fouling in the bore as the rifling engages the riding bands.

Interestingly the TSX bullets all have a 0.3070″ diameter and the TTSX even smaller at 0.3060″, again to reduce friction. All the bullets retained near as damn it 100% of their weight plus a bit of media.

Now the interesting part regarding down range performance. The TSX bullets expanded very well; they always do, despite that small hollow point aperture and channel. The 110gr bullet expanded to 0.6666″, doubling its size – beastly! The 130gr TSX expanded to 0.6540″ and the larger 150gr TSX to 0.6440″; all impressive. This translates down range to good terminal ballistics. The 110gr TSX penetrated to 8.75″ with a wound channel of 5.0″, maximum width of 1.45″ and volume of 110ml. That’s almost the same as the 150gr Nosler Ballistic Tip at 120ml volume. Looking good.

The heavier 130gr TSX penetrated further, to 9.75″, with a wound channel of 4.75″, maximum width of 1.35″ and volume of 130ml – very good indeed. The 150gr TSX penetrated the most at 12.5″, with a wound channel of 4.75″, max width of 1.75″ and 100ml in the medium.

To me this proves that going lighter to 110gr or 130gr in a lead-free bullet is needed to replicate your older 150gr traditional 0.308 bullet loads with the TSX bullets tested. The 130gr looks very interesting, with a good blend of penetration and expansion, as well as excellent wound volume. I use them in my .30-47L rifle.

Next up the TTSX bullets. Will these tipped projectiles prove a point? The 110gr TTSX actually penetrated further than the same weight TSX bullets at 9.25″ and gave an impressive 5.75″ wound channel with a maximum width of 1.75″, resulting in a whopping 180ml volume. That’s 10ml more than the control Nosler Ballistic Tip 125gr bullet at nearly the same velocity. Impressive.

Again there was 100% weight retention and bullet expansion was an amazing 0.6890″, up from 0.3060″. The 150gr TTSX also impressed as it penetrated the most at 11.25″. I thought it would expand more with the better hollow point like its 110gr sibling, but still managed a 0.5915″ bullet diameter. The wound channel was impressive, recording a wound channel of 6.15″, maximum width of 2.00″ and 140ml volume.

You should also note that the larger projectile weights carried their wound channels in a linear line for longer, but outside the critical test media and thus animal body cavity. We don’t need total penetration in the UK, although our American cousins do seem to be obsessed with it.

It was also interesting to see the blue polymer tip being fragmented almost at the start of the wound channel to begin the initial expansion of the TTSX bullets. Again, note how clean the wound channels are with these Barnes bullets. You can see how the bullet rotates in flight as the medium has a definite swirl to its inner profile. People forget that a bullet’s rotation also helps to dissipate energy for a quick dispatch on game. There was no wandering of the bullets through the medium with either and these Barnes shot very true in flight.

Before the tests began, I would have said to go with the 110gr TSX or TTSX if you wanted the same performance as a normal lead-cored 150gr .30 cal bullet. That is still true. Look at the 110gr TSX’s 110ml volume and that amazing tipped TTSX 110gr bullet, which at the same velocity as the TSX gave 70ml more wound volume in the same area.

The 130gr bullet, as discussed, would be a good lead-free all-rounder for penetration and performance. I have to admit I was expecting more from the 150gr TTSX, having seen its smaller brother perform so, well but a 140ml wound channel is still 20ml more than a conventional 150gr ballistic tip. Which when you think of it means that a Barnes TTSX at 150gr mimics the traditional 150gr lead-cored control bullet weight for weight. Ah ha! We might be on to something!

ConclusionsOf the lead-free projectiles tested thus far, these offerings from Barnes seem to deliver good consistent performance. The lighter bullets give the desired combination of wound channel and volume within a more confined space – i.e. there is less penetration, which means the bullet’s energy is dumped inside the beast without over-penetration, which has always been a problem with some lead-free bullets. Also, the tipped TTSX Barnes would definitely seem to offer a very good expanding lead-free option if you still want to retain the same weight bullet that you usually use in your rifle.

I would say from a purely subjective view point that there might be some light at the end of the tunnel with regard to changing over from lead to non-lead projectiles. The trouble is supply and demand, as prices are high even if you can buy them to test. Also, as we will explore in future articles, the issues regarding load density, seating depth and rifling twist for best accuracy, make this a whole new ball game!

Contacts RayTrade Ltd Tel: 01635 253344 Barnes bulletsNorman Clark Gunsmiths Tel: 01788 579651 Reload SuppliesHannams Reloading Ltd Tel: 01977 681639 Reload suppliesHenry Krank Tel: 0113 2569163 Ramshot powdersHighland Outdoors Tel: 0845 0990252 Nosler Ballistic TipEdgar Brothers Tel: 01625 613177 Alliant Powders

Compound bows are becoming increasingly popular nowadays. With the advancement of modern technology, compound bows are becoming more robust, flexible, and accurate.

However, a large portion of bowhunters still uses traditional longbows for archery and hunting. Now the question is, why? What is the difference between these two? And how to distinguish which one is an ideal piercing weapon?

That’s what we’re going to discuss today in our “compound bow vs longbow” guide. We’ll explore the key difference between these 2 bow types, and help you choose the best one for you.

Compound bows use a pulley system to store potential energy, resulting in high-velocity (up to 370 ft/sec), and high-powered arrows whereas traditional longbows feature a traditional outlook, are low-maintenance and are easy to carry around. Which one you’ll end up choosing depend largely on your preference.

Let’s explore more in our in-depth “Compound Bow vs Longbow” comparison:

A Brief History

The traditional, good-old longbow comprises a bowstring that’s tied to a bowed implement. Usually, the tool is a single unit from top to bottom. To lurch your arrow far, you need to pull the bowstring back significantly.

This action requires a lot of energy and concentration. Therefore, you have to lug your entire weight backward. Besides, you need to stay upright for improved accuracy. If you have less weight, however, this action is awkward.

It’s even more difficult if your hands are unsteady. Therefore, a better contraption has replaced this mechanism in a modern-day compound bow.

Here, a pulley (cam) is introduced to recoil the strings. And to improve the versatility and reinforcement at the center, a thicker and more robust member is fitted.

Therefore, the entire length comprises a short truncated upper recurve segment, and a lower one coupled together with a much stronger middle unit.

The advantage of this new design is that it allowed for a more significant backward movement without the bow breaking apart.

What’s more? the archer now needs to spend less energy, and yet, the accuracy of the arrow has significantly improved.

Compound Bow vs Longbow: Key Differences

1. Origins

Bows have been in existence for millennia. A 17,000-year-old arrow discovered in South Africa proved that bow hunting existed even during the stone-age era.

It’s believed that the Egyptians are the ones who invented the bows and arrows. Many pieces of evidence indicate bows were in use around 2,300 BC.

During this period, the preferred construction materials were sticks from hardwood timber such as ash and oak. The string was made of sheep intestine.

Obviously, so many changes have taken place since then. From the rudimentary and inaccurate weapon, you now have an extremely lightweight and powerful tool.

Compound bow

A compound bow is an improvement upon the longbow. It’s fairly intricate. Holless Allen gets credit for the development of the compound bow.

He modified a longbow into the much stronger compound bow we see and love today. He did this by initiating several improvements to the longbow and showcasing it through a patent he applied for in 1966 and received in 1969.

The new compound made its debut in the US National Archery Competition in the 1970s.

Longbow

Bowhunting enthusiasts Baer, Hiyt, and Mathews refined the longbow using new and modern materials. They transformed the hitherto wood frame and sheep intestines elements previously used for these longbows.

But even before the new revolution in the manufacture of the longbow, a previous one had already occurred.

The most advanced modernization of medieval archery goes to the Welsh. It appears that they manufactured the longbow into a tactical offensive weapon.

Their archers managed to withhold a large regime of British soldiers in the Battle of Waterloo in 1066. But the first recorded use of a longbow was during the battle of AD 633 during the war between the Welsh and Mercians.

Since then, this particular longbow earned the name of the British longbow. It’s been used in numerous battles with the French both on land and in the sea.

2. Design

The design of a longbow varies from that of a compound bow. Let’s see what our “compound bow vs longbow” comparison guide points out about the design differences between these two types of bows:

Compound bow

The high-quality compound bows are sophisticated. They have two sewn recurve ends fitted with pulleys at the end (limb). Either or both cams feature one or more cables attached to the opposite limb.

These cams provide the pivot needed when you pull back the bowstring. This action (let off) enhances the accuracy of the arrow while giving a more natural aiming response.

The center of the compound bow (riser) pivots the limbs, bow sights, bow stabilizers, and quivers. This section required greater flexibility to transfer as much of the stored energy from the bow to the arrow as possible.

This segment curves out towards the target, making it exert more force, which is subsequently transferred to the arrow.

Newer models of compound bows have cables and cable slides as well as a higher brace height. This is the length between a grip throat and the bowstring.

Longbow

The longbow, on the other hand, comprises a long weapon measuring about four feet long. Its stave was from a D-shaped section of a hardwood branch.

It has a singular and long limb. Typically, it’s made from a single material. There is no reinforcement or clamping along the entire stretch.

Even if the bowstring structure is the same as in a compound bow, the longbow still shoots slower and requires more force.

As a result, the arching process is also more strenuous than the former. This is due to the lack of a bow curve, the absence of cams as well as a more prolonged and weaker limb.

3. Material

The elements that make the longbow and compound bow affect how these two tools perform. Let’s look and the material composition of compound bow vs longbow.

Compound bow

Previously, compound bows comprised plastic-coated steel. However, due to lower tensile strength and flexibility – that decreased the arrow’s overall accuracy, – they now feature more suitable materials.

The more prominent material currently is the high-modulus polyethylene compound. It offers higher tensile strength as well as maximum energy transfer.

Longbow

The ancient longbows were constructed mostly from yew. However, hazel and elms were occasionally used. It was then coated with resin, wax, or excellent tallow to improve its tensile strength.

Currently, however, composite materials of laminated fiberglass and tampered wood are now used to make recreational longbows.

4. Uses and Benefits

Long ago, bows and arrows were used for hunting and conquering. But presently, they are used primarily in sports hunting and bow shooting competitions. Archery has grown as a favorite pastime as well as a game in all major tournaments.

Compound bow

A compound bow has a more significant benefit due to its design. The robust cams allow for a higher energy reserve. You only draw a portion of the energy and the rest remains at the front where it’s needed most when shooting.

The horizontal limbs also reduce the vibration and recoil intensity before shooting the compound bow, improving the accuracy of the shot as a result.

Further, modern compound bows have sighting devices to improve aim, as well as mechanical release to retain shot consistencies. Therefore, you are likely to shoot accurately using less effort.

Longbow

Longbow proved challenging to use since it required an inertia of over 65 lbs to deliver the necessary projectile power. This posture is also more strenuous since you’ll have to arch significantly back to convert sufficient energy needed by the arrow.

Different types of longbows were used for assorted arrows. There existed fight arrows, with chisel arrows. Other bows accommodated hunting arrows. Even within them, they also vary between animal and bird hunting types.

When you compare a longbow vs. a compound bow, you find that a longbow is lighter and quicker to shoot. Besides, it’s also quieter.

Additionally, the longbow is easy to make since it needs just one or two tree branches.

5. Draw Length

In archery, you need to be sure about a bow’s draw length. Typically, a draw length has a close correlation with your overall body size.

Take the distance from the tip of a nocked arrow to the tip of your draw-out hands. Divide this distance by 2.5, and you’ll get your draw length,

Compound bow

For a compound bow draw length, measuring the arrow tip should ideally be around two feet beyond the riser at full draw. When you hold this position and measure the arrow length, you get the draw length by adding one foot to the computed distance.

Longbow

The draw length of a longbow is usually more than five feet. Many of the early models had their measures reaching up to 12 feet. But they commonly averaged six-and-a-half feet long.

6. Limitations

Even the best-functioning longbows or compound bows have their drawbacks. Below are some of the shortfalls that are apparent in both the compound bow and the longbow.

Compound bow

By design, compound bows have many moving parts. This structure makes them susceptible to breakages and parts malfunctions. Further, having many elements make compound bow maintenance and handling a bit expensive.

Replacement is also intensive. It requires special tools to replace and repair damaged parts or strings of the compound bow.

Longbow

The longbow stretches more slowly and unsteadily. When you draw it backward, your arms move with the full energy you are exerting. You need more power to hold back your hands firmly.

At the same time, during the process of drawing your bow, less energy is available at the point where the bowstring meets the arrow.

This has the dual effects of releasing less punch directly to the arrow, as well as exacerbating your unstable hold. Hence when you release the arrow, it first, only moves a short distance and is less linear in its movement.

Further, it’s more likely to miss its target due to a weak trajectory caused by less force.

7. Care and Maintenance Requirements

Proper care for your bow is vital. You appreciate that owning a modern compound bow may cost you up to $1,000. Even with the composite material, they have many parts and accessories that need tender care.

Compound bow

Compound bows have sights, pulleys, limbs, cables, and cams. All these are made of different materials. Further, their assembly is delicate. Hence you ought to maintain each component individually:

• Cables: Waxing protects your cables when not in use. Do this once a month or after every exposure to the elements.
• Limbs: Laminated limbs are susceptible to cracking under various layers. Do a thorough inspection (by rubbing with cotton wool) to identify such defects.
• Frame: This component suffers from a lot of tension. Inspect it routinely for cracks and twists.
• Cams: Visually check on the cams before using your compound bow. To prevent corrosion and discoloration, wipe this part clean after every use.
• Accessories like bow-sights rest and quivers also require regular maintenance. Accurately mount them to avoid any damage through colliding with other surfaces.

Longbow

Longbows are made from composite frames or laminated timber. Run periodic inspections to identify damages to the fame and the bowstring.

Apply remedial measures similar to those on frames and limbs and accessories in the compound bows. Don’t store limbs in a hot compartment. Keep your longbow in a cool dry place. Better still, afford similar treatment to bolts and nuts.

Are Compound Bows Better Than Longbows: Which One to Get?

Compound bows and longbows have been used for centuries in hunting and archery. Now, you might be thinking Is a compound bow better than a longbow, or is it the other way around?

That’s a question that has been debated by hunters, archers, and outdoor enthusiasts for many years. Let’s find out which is the better option for you.

When a Compound Bow Is Better

Compound bows are becoming increasingly popular due to their superior accuracy and power compared to traditional longbows. While some people will always prefer the classic look of a longbow, it’s hard to deny the benefits of a compound bow.

Compound bows have several advantages over longbows. They are capable of higher draw weights than traditional longbows, allowing for greater accuracy, longer range, and more penetrating power.

The cams on a compound bow also make it easier to shoot with a consistent draw length, which can be very helpful for novice archers.

Additionally, compound bows are usually easier to maintain and tune than longbows. This can be a big plus for people who aren’t as experienced with bow maintenance and tuning.

When a Long Bow Is Better

Longbows have several advantages over their modern counterpart that make them attractive to traditionalists.

Their simpler design makes them lighter and easier to carry, making them a popular choice for hunters who must traverse long distances.

Longbows can also be more durable than compound bows since they are less complicated and require fewer parts. They don’t usually require as much maintenance or tuning either, which can be a plus for those with limited technical skills.

Finally, traditional longbows are often more aesthetically pleasing than compound bows, which can be a plus for those who prioritize looks.

Longbow vs Compound Bow: Which One You Should Get

The choice of whether to get a compound bow or a longbow is up to the individual archer or hunter. Both have their advantages and disadvantages, so it’s important to weigh all of the factors before making a decision.

Some archers may prefer the classic look and feel of a longbow, while others may be drawn to the power and accuracy of a compound bow.

Ultimately, the choice is yours, so do your research and find the option that best fits your needs. Good luck!

Conclusion

And with that, we’re at the endgame of our in-depth “compound bow vs longbow” comparison. Let’s do a quick recap.

You understand that compound bows offer better performance than longbows. However, you may still come across diehard fans of traditional bowing techniques.

To them, using both a compound bow and a longbow propel the arrow to the ordinary distance of 22 feet. But the inclusion of modern technology into bowing has made significant strides that you can’t ignore.

In fact, the new construction and materials have made bow hunting a more comfortable sport for everyone.

So, whether you aspire to hunt elks, deers, or any other small-medium game animal; or win a trophy at an archery completion, you have to start by learning how to use, differentiate and care for your bows and arrows.

Either way, you still need to practice consistently to perfect your pull, nock, aim, and shoot.

FAQs

Which Type of Bow Is More Accurate: Longbow or Compound?

Compound bows are generally considered to be more accurate than longbows as they feature a system of pulleys that help create consistent draw weight throughout the shot.

Is It Easier to Shoot a Longbow or Compound Bow?

In most cases, compound bows are easier to shoot than longbows since they feature a system of pulleys that help make the draw weight consistent throughout the shot. Compound bows also tend to be less affected by wind speeds, giving them an extra accuracy boost.

How Much Draw Weight Should I Use With Each Type of Bow?

Generally speaking, recurve bows require more draw weight than compound bows, with 40-50 lbs being the standard range for recurves and 25-45 lbs being the usual range for compounds.

For safety reasons, it is important to never exceed the maximum recommended draw weight for either type of bow.

LAST UPDATED: May 8th, 2015

Wow, this is a turkey to be proud of… A new world record! Congratulations Todd Pringnitz. I was just surfing the web and found his site and story about his new world record turkey. Here it is:

For many turkey hunters, the thought of a world record animal must occupy their brains much like the elusive giant whitetail bucks that I have been dreaming about my whole life. In all the thoughts that have entered my brain, shooting a world record turkey was the farthest thing from my mind when my good buddy Dan Johnson and I headed to our Bale Blind on the afternoon of April 13th.

I’ve turkey hunted the last few years without any-luck. My only previous experience having any sort of encounter with a tom turkey would be in my back yard back in my home state of Michigan. I somehow found a way to miss a tom turkey at about 8 feet. Needless to say, I didn’t exactly have a huge goal going into this turkey season. In-fact, I would have been pumped to kill any tom turkey with my bow! If it happened on video that would just have been an added bonus. I mean we’re whitetail video producers right?

Thankfully, the persistence of my good friend Dallas Ft. Worth to film my first few hunts of the season would end up being one of the best things to ever happen in my life. Our hunt started earlier in the year when while shed hunting I happened to find my long-lost decoy laying under a bunch of brush out in my CRP field. I remembered the location, and figured I’d grab it the first day I headed into the field turkey hunting. Thankfully I grabbed it a few days before I started hunting because there was an ant nest inside of it, and they were biters! I hosed it out, but didn’t have the stake to hold it in the ground. After digging through my old arrow pile, I found an arrow that would work just fine.

Throughout our first afternoon in the field, Dallas and I filmed a giant tom working the opposite side of the corn field as us. We called at the tom several times, but despite his gobbling and strutting action, he just wouldn’t come closer. I still considered this pretty darned cool because he was definitely a mature tom turkey, and we got some footage of him.

The following afternoon would find Dallas and myself back into the same Bale Blind in-hopes of seeing the giant tom from the day before. When putting out the decoy, we actually busted a hen from the field, so we didn’t even know if we would be seeing much. Within a few minutes, Dallas was performing his “box call magic”, and the wait was on.

About 45 minutes later, we saw a tom turkey enter the field. It was clear that he was a pig of a turkey, but he was leading a hen. He would work up to about 30 yards in-front of her, and then strut back. I honestly didn’t think he was going to come close because he was entertaining the hen. He worked back and forth within about 60 yards, and started circling parallel to us in the blind. With a hen decoy in-front of the blind, we called a little here and there to try to get his attention enough so that he would see the decoy.

With an occasional view of his strutting fan through the standing corn, he started coming closer to the opening in-front of our blind. I was very aware of the distances and shooting arrangement because we had been deer hunting from the same set-up this past late deer season here in Iowa. I knew if he was in the opening, he was within 40 yards, which was a bad place for him to be. He started working closer and seemed like he was committed to coming into the decoy.

This is a picture of the giant turkey entering the field. My first thoughts were “he’s a shooter”…

As he entered the opening, the old tom was clearly a giant turkey. Even though this tom was interested in the hen decoy, he seemed very cautious. He stayed out at a 35-40 yard parameter around the decoy and our bale blind, never coming closer to investigate the mangy looking hen with arrow fletching strangely sticking through the top of her back.

This shows my not-so-fancy decoy set-up in-front of our blind with the big tom circling at 35 yards…

In the back of my mind throughout these moments was the “Shipwreck” encounter that we had in the same corn field only a few months earlier. “Shipwreck” was the 190 class giant I had at 35 yards from a ground blind and I just couldn’t get a shot into him. With the same exact type of “cautious investigation” as the “Shipwreck” encounter, I wasn’t about to make the same mistake again. With the tom starting to walk back to the hen he was tending, I committed to the 35 yard walking shot and came to full-draw. A quick check with Dallas behind the camera, my anchor was locked, and an arrow was soon in-flight “tom-ward bound”.

This is when the tom started heading back toward the other hen in the field. It was now or never!

Of all the arrows I’ve ever release, boy am I glad this one was true. I hit the tom pretty-much dead-center of his body with a loud “thwack”. Dallas started screaming “you smoked him – you smoked him” and I couldn’t believe I had just shot my first tom turkey. After talking a short bit in the blind, we wanted to go track the bird and make certain he was done. After walking across the field, we saw the turkey and he was still alive. After making a quick stalk, I was able to center another arrow through the bird as he started his “death flap”.

This is Dallas and I in the bale blind just after the shot…

Still not knowing we had just shot the world record, Dallas and I were most concerned with putting the beautiful bird out of his misery. It wasn’t until I peeled back the feathers on his chest when all the beards separated and one after another was visible. My trembling hands sifted through the beards trying to keep track of them as they counted of. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, and finally 6 beards were exposed and I couldn’t believe my eyes. I’d seen and heard of multiple bearded turkeys, but 6 wasn’t something I’d ever heard of. I proclaimed to Dallas; “I just shot a 200 class Boone and Crocket Turkey Dude”…. Yeah, I still had no idea.

Here is a picture I took of the beards in my hand after just realizing the turkey was a multi-bearded freak bird!

After taking our trophy pictures and making some phone calls, things started to take a turn to the ridiculous. I was SO excited to have killed this tom, I swear I don’t think I would have been any-more excited knowing what I had really just shot. Anyone who has seen our deer hunting videos before already knows what I’m talking about. I can shoot a doe and nearly start crying. Ok, maybe not that bad – but it’s pretty embarrassing I can tell you! This is no exception, but it is what it is. I’m not going to apologize for being myself. Ok, I apologize for those who don’t “get me” because sometimes I hate watching my own stuff!

Sitting in a Huntmore chair that I was fortunate enough to engineer for Huntmore owner Scott Hoffman; well, this is the best testing we can do. Pretty cool I get to combine my skills of product design with my passion for hunting. I’m a very fortunate guy to have Scott many years ago on a hunt in Effingham, Illinois!

Chris Brackett (Arrow Afflictions) was the first guy who let me know exactly what I had shot in his way “You idiot, you just shot a state record or something”. After sending him a cell picture of the beard he replied, “You just shot the new world record, you XXXXX”… I think you get the idea.

This is the Blind Ambitions Bale Blind that we used for this set-up. It worked perfectly!

After doing some “we don’t know how to properly measure turkeys – measuring”, we came to the conclusion that this indeed could be the new world record turkey. By this point all Dallas and I could do is laugh. I mean seriously; I’ve spent the last 22 years of my life basically “living for whitetails”. Every waking second of every single day I spend dreaming of bucks, planning, and working for the upcoming season. As soon as one is complete, we’re already working on the next aspect of our year-around pursuit.

Here’s another picture of the Iowa freaks beard.

The only comparison I can make is to the 12 year old that goes out for the first time bowhunting and shoots a 200 class whitetail. I indeed was just that of the turkey world, and I knew things would never be the same. With that being said, I’ve hunted hard enough over the past many years to realize there is always an element of “luck” in any hunt. I always considered all of my luck to be “made”. In this particular case however, it was not only luck, it was dumb luck! What do you do, every serious turkey hunter is probably going to hate me, but I guess there’s nothing I can do about that now.

The turkey was officially scored by Hazel Creek Taxidermy; and has been entered as the new archery World Record for the Eastern turkey in the NWTF record books. The entire experience has been eye-opening to say the least. I’d just like to thank the NWTF and Hazel Creek Taxidermy for their help with this unknown world of turkey hunting that I have just been thrust into. They have all been just awesome! Most of all, I want to thank my good friend, team member, and cameraman Dan Johnson (Dallas Ft. Worth). Without you brother, we wouldn’t have this experience documented to share with the entire world! The turkey and sport deserves it, and without you this would never have been possible. So, thank you so-so much dude! To think that a 9-fingered guy would film the new world record turkey kill – well, I don’t think you’re missing right index finger would have ever imagined. Definitely not right now anyway.

I would never have imagined in a million years that I would ever be “that guy”. Now that it’s done, I just can’t wait to share the story with everyone. I can only imagine how many “shaking heads” there will be when watching me completely not realize what I have just shot. To those guys, believe me, I feel your pain! With that being said, I’m not going to complain about being “that guy”…

My World Record Archery Eastern Tom Turkey had over 49” of combined beard length. He weighed 25.9 pounds, and had 1-1/4” spurs. He scored 149.6875 which beat the previous record of 139.2400. It could be broken tomorrow, but for the moment it’s pretty cool! Good luck to all the turkey hunters out there! Looks like I’ve got a new spring activity to get serious about. Unfortunately, it’s all down-hill from here!

Jack London’s To Build a Fire is one of the best short stories ever written. It illustrates man’s battle with nature as well as how smart dogs are. It also shows the frustration of making fire when you need it the most. In the story, death won because the man failed in starting a fire. That doesn’t have to be the outcome. Here are a few tips on building a fire when things are wet and miserable and you need it most.

Make sure you protect your materials from wind and rain as you work. Create a base to start the fire by clearing the ground. You want the fire in a dry place, so remove all wet leaves and debris and pick a spot with good drainage. A flat rock works well as a work table to get the fire started. Make sure to locate the fire near some kind of shelter for you.

I usually have a space blanket or a small tarp in my pack as well as some paracord because it’s easy to form a roof with to keep rain off the fire. You may need to move or remove it once the fire is going to prevent the sparks from burning a hole, but for now, keep it low enough to protect your work area.

Lacking that, find some natural protection or make it. Build a lean-to frame against a big rock, log or tree with fallen limbs and cover it with spruce bows. That works well in the Northeast where we have lots of spruce. In other areas, improvise; there’s almost always something you can use to keep the rain off you and the fire.

StarterYou’ll need a starter. Often called tinder, it’s something that will light easily and burn hot long enough to ignite small fuel sources. It’s a good idea to bring something with you. I’ve read hundreds of these type of articles where the writer talked about soaking cotton balls in Vaseline or collecting lint from the dryer vent. I’ve tried them all, and to be honest, I didn’t have much luck. There are much better options.

Fire-lighting sticks that are ground wood mixed with wax are hard to beat. I burn wood to heat my house and have to restart the fire often. I used to mess with newspapers and kindling that I split from dry wood. That’s a tedious process of gradually building the fire. Now, I pile up my big chunks of hard wood, insert a fire-starting stick at a junction located low in the pile, light it and walk away. The point is, starters are great and inexpensive.

Another option is solid fuel tablets. They’re easy to find, inexpensive and burn very hot. If you add a folding stove—often sold with these tablets and a metal cup—you have a way to make tea, coffee or food while you work. These cubes and the fire-starting sticks are a bit fragile, so I vacuum seal them with my FoodSaver. At the very least, wrap them in aluminum foil and put them in a zip-lock bag.

I always carry a couple of tea light candles in my backpack. They are short, squat candles in a small aluminum cup. They burn for a long time and are easy to light and slip in under the tinder. They can also provide light to work by.

There are a lot of commercial fire starters on the market, often in individual single-use packaging. Most I’ve tried work pretty well, but a word of caution: Test them at home a few times to be sure. Some burn out pretty fast, and if things are wet, you need something that will burn long enough to dry the edges of your tinder.

If you don’t have any of these materials, don’t panic. There are plenty of fire-starters out there in the woods, they’re just a bit harder to find. Birch bark is an old standby. If you peel deep enough on a standing tree, you should find a dry layer. You may have to use your knife to cut away the dry bark.

Sometimes if you look deep under thick evergreen trees, the branches lowest and closest to the trunk will be dry, as they’re protected from the upper branches. Carefully harvest any small dry twigs to form into a nest to start the fire.

Find some dead branches that are seasoned and start shaving them with your knife. While the outside will be wet, when you whittle away that layer, you should find dry wood at some point. Shave off thin slices of this dry wood until you have a large pile of shavings. You can also form them into a fuzz stick by cutting a shaving so it curls away from the stick, but leaving it attached, then move the knife slightly and make another. If you make a lot of these, you end up with a big fuzzy stick to start the fire.

In locations where you have trees with high pitch content, some types of pines for example, you may find chunks of pitch on the trees. Those work well to start the fire. Shavings from this will light easily and burn hot.

FuelYou need some small dry pieces of fuel to start, and then progressively larger pieces to build and maintain the fire. Once again, look under the protected branches of an evergreen tree. Check on the downwind side of rocks, trees or big formations like cliffs. Often there will be a small zone close to the wind barrier that has some dry material. Collect small twigs, dry grass or anything else that will burn.

Find some smaller sticks—up to an inch or so in diameter—that are dead and seasoned. Break them into manageable sections, about 3 or 4 inches long. Use your knife to split the wood lengthwise. You may need to use a larger piece of wood to drive the blade through with a method called batoning.

A word here to the small knife advocates. I know it’s all so very cool to brag about using a pen knife to process a moose, but this right here is why you should carry a grown-up knife in the woods. Little knives and replaceable-blade knives are fine for gutting rabbits, but you need a large, tough knife to save your life in a situation like this. You don’t need a Rambo-inspired survival knife or bushcraft knife, although it wouldn’t hurt. But you do need a full-size hunting knife with at least a 3-inch blade. A hatchet works even better here, but most hunters don’t carry them as part of their everyday gear.

The inside of the split wood should be dry. Split it fine, with lots of edges to catch fire. You may even want to split off any wood that is water soaked. Work up in branch size as far as you can with your knife and split some bigger pieces. You should have multiple piles of split wood in different sizes. The idea is to start the fire with the small stuff and gradually work up in size until you have a large enough fire to dry the bigger pieces as you add them.

Collect enough wood to make a large, hot fire before beginning. Once the fire is burning well and you have some hot coals, then you can leave it and gather more wood. Gather what you think is enough, then double it. The last thing you want is to run out of wood. Place the wood close to your fire so that it will be drying as it waits its turn in the fire. If you pile the wood high and opposite your position, it can act as a wind barrier and will reflect some of the heat back to you.

Be Prepared with Multiple StartersI never go into the woods without at least two ways to make a fire. I am a big fan of magnesium fire starters, and always have one in my pocket when hunting. I recall one day high in the mountains of Montana where our elk hunting was interrupted by a blizzard. The guide used all his matches and failed to get the fire started. I dug a magnesium starter out of my pack, and soon enough our jackets were steaming and our fingers were warm again. The trick is to make a small pile of shavings using your knife and then hit the metal Ferro rod to create a spark which ignites the shavings. Magnesium burns very hot and will start the tinder easily.

Ferrocerium (Ferro) rods are very popular right now and easy to find. They produce a shower of hot sparks, and when used correctly, that shower is almost continuous and will ignite dry tender easily. One of the best I’ve tried is the Lightning Strike Fire Starter. It comes with several disks that store in the handle, light easily and burn for four minutes. The machined body is designed to guide the striker and to send the sparks directly to the tinder.

Waterproof matches and butane lighters are good as well. With the lighter, you can hold the flame for a long time. Try to find one with a large flame or an adjustable flame.

Tend the fire carefully, as most people (myself included) try to rush things and start piling on too much wood too soon, which can put the fire out. Work slowly, be patient, feed the fire gently and watch it grow.

If you’re really smart, you’ll have a package of noodles or instant soup in your pack and something to heat it in. A metal cup works pretty well. Set it on a rock beside the fire until the water is hot. It’s raining, finding water is easy enough. Finish with a little instant coffee; it does wonders for your outlook on life.

If you have ever met a snake before, chances are you’re familiar with their adrenaline-spiking hissing sound.

But did you know snakes can make a variety of sounds?

Yes, snakes have no vocal codes like humans. But they have evolved to produce several sounds and noises that play a vital role in their survival.

In this post, we will dive into the captivating world of snake sounds and noises, uncovering their purpose and significance.

So, join us on this wild, exciting journey!

Types of Snakes That Produce Sounds and Noises

What comes to your mind when you think of snake sounds? Venomous (poisonous) snakes, right?

It’s true that venomous snake species, like cobras and rattlesnakes, produce a range of sounds as a defense measure.

However, non-venomous species like bull snakes can also create different sounds and noises.

But why do they produce these sounds? Well, continue to the next section for the answer.

Purpose of the Snake’s Sounds and Noises

Snake vocalizations are not just random wild noises; they have a purpose, including:

• Communication: Perhaps the primary reason snakes produce distinct sounds and noises is for communication. But here’s something interesting: Snakes don’t use their unique auditory cues for communicating with other snakes. These sounds are meant for potential snake predators. As a fact, the frequency of snake sounds like hissing is too high for other snakes to hear. That means, a snake cannot hear another snaking hissing.
• Defense Mechanism: Snake sounds can also act as a defense mechanism. By hissing or producing growls or spine-tingling rattles, the snake can warn predators to stay away.
• To Show Aggression: The “sssssss” snake sound could also show aggression, especially in ball pythons. If provoked, snakes might hiss and flicker their tongue quickly to defend themselves.
• Territorial Display: Snake sounds can also help them define their territory. A snake might hiss at humans and animals who encroach on their space to ward them off. The sound act as a deterrent, effectively telling intruders to back off.

Types of Noises and Sounds Snakes Make

1. Hissing

A snake’s hiss is unmistakable and super terrifying. Like a dog’s growl, the hiss warns invaders, prey, and predators.

However, wild snakes usually hiss more than snakes in cages. The reason is that the former is exposed to dangers more frequently than the latter. So, they often react to danger or uncertain situations by hissing?

How Does a Snake Produce the Hissing Sound?

Have you ever tried hissing before?

It’s easy! Place your tongue behind your teeth and force air between the opening.

However, that’s not how hissing works in snakes.

These creatures can’t make a lot of different shapes with their mother. As a result, they can produce a lot of different noises.

But they have a secret weapon: the glottis. This is a little hole right underneath the snake’s tongue that connects to the windpipe.

The glottis allows the animal to breathe when swallowing its meal. It also helps the snake produce the sound of a hiss, thanks to a small piece of cartilage inside it.

When a snake exhales through the glottis, the cartilage vibrates, creating a hissing sound. It also gives the hissing extra volume.

Even interesting:

Some snake species like the bullsnake can change their hiss to mimic a rattle. Because the snake is non-venomous, the rattling noise helps them intimidate predators.

While hissing, snakes also poke out their tongues to smell the predator and take the safest route to escape.

When Do Pet Snakes Hiss?

• When Startled: If you catch a pet snake off guard, it might hiss out of fear. It’s normal for baby snakes to hiss more because they are still getting used to the environment and human owners. To prevent this, first touch the snake softly to alert it you are about to pick it up.
• When Annoyed: Sometimes, snakes want to enjoy their peace undisturbed. If you try to pick one up, it might hiss back at you to express displeasure. So, leave it alone until it’s in a merry mood.
• When Digesting Food: Experts recommend allowing the snake to relax after ingesting a large meal. This can take 3 to 5 days, depending on the snake’s size and amount of food. If you lift the snake after the meal, it will probably hiss to express dissatisfaction.
• When It’s About to Shade: Snakes shed their skin about four times annually. So, leave it alone during this time to avoid upsetting it. If you attempt to touch or pick it up during the shedding process, it may feel nervous and hiss to express itself.

2. Rattling

You can identify rattlesnakes by their distinctive rattle sound, particularly the Western Diamondback Rattlesnake.

But did you know rattlesnakes are not the only snakes that shake their tails?

We have other dangerous snakes, including:

• Cottonmouths
• Copperheads
• Terciopelos
• Cantills
• Bushmasters (These snakes even have spine-like scales at the tip of their tails for a louder sound)

Here’s a list of non-venomous snake species that also shake their tails:

• Corn snakes
• Gopher snakes
• Rat snakes
• Kingsnakes

These snakes produce rattling sounds by shaking their tails, which consist of interlocking segments made from keratin. Yes! The stuff that makes up your finger and toenails.

These interlocking segments are loosely attached. As a result, they move back and forth when the snake shakes its tail, producing a rattle.

As the snake grows and sheds its skin, a new segment forms and is added to the rattle, causing it to lengthen over time. But a long rattle doesn’t necessarily mean a loud sound. That would be the speed and intensity of the tail vibration.

For venomous snakes, the tail shaking serves as a warning to predators. It also serves as a diversion, directing the attacker’s attention to the tail. This can lead to confusion and prevent an attack.

As for non-poisonous snakes, tail vibrations help them mimic dangerous snake species and shield themselves from predators. This is what is called Batesian mimicry.

3. Bellowing

The bull, gopher, and pine snake can produce bellows when threatened or attacked by a predator. Unlike hisses, bellows are distinctively loud and can leave you frozen in your tracks.

These snakes bellow by forcing air via the larynx. Within the larynx is the laryngeal septum (vocal coder), which vibrates to produce the spine-chilling bellowing sound.

Usually, this sound has a short period of high amplitude (loud noise) followed by a long period of low amplitude (quieter noise).

4. Growling

You would think a bellow is the most unique snake vocalization. But wait till you learn that some species have evolved to growl when agitated. One such snake is the king of cobra.

The king cobra is considered one of the largest venomous snake species in the world. While it might look intimidating, it’s usually timid unless it feels threatened.

When a king cobra spots a threat, it might slither to safer areas. It might also inflate its hood, which comprises several air sacs to look bigger and intimidate the attacker.

Additionally, it may produce a scary growl that sounds like it belongs to a lion or dog instead of a snake.

Additional Snakes Sounds and Noises

Besides the vocalizations mentioned above, here are some creepy snake sounds worth checking out:

• Puffing: It is no surprise to hear your pet snake puff and huff at night or when feeding. This rings true for snake species, like boas and carpet pythons. The puffs and huffs could also show the snake’s frustration.
• Shrieking: Snakes that bellow like the pine snake can also produce a shriek in response to danger. All thanks to its distinctive vocal cord.
• Whistling: Some snakes like Russel vipers and corn snakes whistle.
• Rasping: Some snakes produce rasping sounds by rubbing their scale together. For example, saw-scaled vipers (native to Africa and Asia), will assume an “S” shape and rub their scale together to make a noise similar to a hiss. The purpose of the sound is to scare away predators.

What To Do During a Snake Encounter

Snakes are typically timid and avoid human contact and confrontation whenever possible. So, if you encounter one on your property, it is more likely the snake is scared of you than you are of it.

Below, we’ve provided you with the best ways to deal with a hissing snake and ensure the safety of both parties.

• Stay Calm: Panicking only increases the likelihood of sudden movements. This can disturb or frighten the slithering creature. As a defense response, the snake might hiss or even attack you.
• Note the Sound: Snake species make sounds, such as hissing, rattling, or growling. Identify the type of sound and, if possible, try to identify the snake and the threat level. This information might guide your next actions.
• Allow the Snake Some Space: Snakes frequently make sounds as a defensive mechanism, signaling a threat. Respect the snake’s personal space and avoid approaching or handling it. Maintain a safe distance to prevent snake bites and lower the risk of escalating aggression.
• Back Away: If you encounter a snake and it makes noises, it’s best to back away from the scene. Also, maintain eye contact with the snake, as it will be aware of your movements. Create distance by retreating slowly and smoothly while avoiding sudden or threatening gestures.
• Seek Professional Help: In certain situations, it’s wise to call your local animal control or professional snake removal service. These experts possess the skills and equipment to handle and relocate the snake, safely.

Closing Thoughts

Snakes have a fearsome reputation. But surprisingly, these creatures are typically shy and often avoid human interactions. They naturally keep their distance when they sense human or predator presence.

However, when threatened or cornered, they can produce a lot of different sounds to warn, intimidate or divert the attention of invaders or predators.

Most individuals are familiar with the snake’s hiss. But these animals can also growl, buzz, rattle, shriek, whistle, and rasp. This shows the remarkable diversity of snake vocalizations.

Overall, learning about snake sounds and noises helps you better appreciate their communication methods. This way, you can prevent dangerous encounters, especially with venomous species.

Thank you for stopping by! If you have any questions, inform us in the comment section.

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Being adopted by a major military is the dream for every firearm manufacture.

But government procurement is a messy business and raises the question…Did the US Army make the right decision by choosing the Sig Sauer P320 as its new sidearm?

And just because they chose it…does the P320 make sense for you?

We’ll cover everything about the P320 in our review…from features to accuracy, reliability, ergonomics, upgrades, and pricing. By the end, you’ll know if the P320 is right for you or if the Army is stuck with a dud.

And now complete with a hands-on video review:

If that helped, please subscribe to our YouTube channel since we’re adding new videos every week!

Striker vs Hammer

Times are changing and the striker fired polymer king Glock, is being given a run for its money by Sig Sauer.

Normally known for its double action, single action hammer fired pistols, Sig Sauer is the gold standard for semi-auto handguns.

Their entry into the striker fired market is the p320, a welcomed sight in a stagnating market and a very real replacement for Glock pistols for CCW and general shooting.

Not sure about gun actions? Check out our Single/Double Action vs Striker Fired article.

Why would Sig want to make a striker fired gun?

Well, striker fired guns have a lot of advantages that people love…a consistent trigger pull and increased internal safeties are the main reasons armed citizens, police agencies, and elite military units are switching to striker fired guns. The SEALS did it with the Glock 19.

The mechanisms that make up striker fired guns are also very easy to produce, assemble and easy for armorers to fix. All this makes striker guns cheaper than traditional guns.

This is where the Sig Sauer P320 comes in.

The major difference between the p320 and every other double stack pistol Sig Sauer has ever made is that others use hammers and the P320 uses a striker.

It offers the quality and reliability of Sig Sauer, with a tried and true striker system and ingenious features that make it a novel gun.

In a world of “innovative” guns, this truly is an innovated design and a step in the right direction for the future of pistols.

General Opinion and Background

The model tested for review was my personal Nitron carry in 9mm.

There has been a total of about 1,700 rounds of FMJ plinking and training ammo through it and about 250 defensive rounds through the bore. I would feel comfortable saying it has 2000 rounds total.

The best 9mm ammo for self-defense and plinking.

The only stoppages have been ammo related, all with steel cased ammo, including a squib load.

My overall impression is that this is a good pistol when compared to a Glock, XD, or M&P but subpar compared to a legacy P-series Sig Sauer gun.

The construction of the gun is better than others in its class but isn’t as good as an H&K, legacy Sig Sauer, or any of the high end 1911’s.

This is very much a carry or light duty gun.

If you shoot competition and can’t afford better, this is a good gun, otherwise look elsewhere.

If you plan on actually shooting a gun a lot, get a better gun. Better in the sense it has better ergonomics, and is more specialized for what you need.

*Update January 2019* Sig has released their civilian version of the Army’s M17…the P320-M17. Check out our full review if that suits your fancy.

Features

Safety

The Sig Sauer p320 has the usual suspect of safety features including firing pin, trigger bar, and others that make the gun just as safe as other pistols in the Sig line.

What this pistol does have that no other striker fired gun does…is a single piece trigger.

The trigger pack inside the gun is designed to have a one-piece trigger instead of the widespread two-piece hinged trigger of Glock and M&P design that houses a safety feature to control the striker. The safeties of this gun are all truly passive and operate without input from the shooter.

This makes the trigger very smooth, consistent and can be had in either a standard, short reach or small bladed design.

Fire Control Unit & Caliber X-Change

One of the coolest features of this gun is what part constitutes the “gun.”

As far as the ATF is concerned the “gun” is the part that has the serial number on it. That means everything else is just a part.

Here’s what the serialized P320 looks like…

The steel fire control unit inside the P320…

The slide, and more importantly, the grip frame, are not serialized. You can shoot all the common calibers out of this weapon by just changing slides and mags. You can also re-size the gun to your hand by having the entire grip changed, not just a few panels.

Sig calls them Caliber X-Change kits.

Sig offers kits to change sizes, Full Size, Compact, and Subcompact and caliber change kits for .380acp, 9mm, .40s&w, and .357 Sig. The kits include the new slide, grip module, and proper magazine for the caliber and grip size.

It should be noted that while Sig has said that .45 ACP kits are “coming soon” they have been “coming soon” for about 2 years, so maybe not as soon as it sounds. Currently, if your P320 is in .45 ACP you cannot change it to ANY other caliber. Likewise, if your P320 isn’t in .45 ACP, you cannot change it to .45 ACP.

This system works well but is a dumb way to go about it. To convert a Glock, for example, you choose from the calibers that your gun can fit and need a new barrel and a magazine. You can save several hundred dollars over buying a new weapon with this system.

The only annoying thing is the price…Caliber X-Change kits are around $400.

You only save $150 or so when you buy a Caliber X-Change kit. You might as well buy a new gun if you want a different size or different caliber.

Especially if you factor in the cost of extra magazines. The guns come with two, the x-change kits only have one.

Buy the new gun, thank us later.

Grip Frames

Sharing both grip frames and magazines with the P250 the P320 has the ability to tailor the size of the gun and the circumference of the grip width, with just the change of the plastic grip frame.

The serialized part of the gun the steel fire control unit mentioned above. This means you can buy grip frames online and have them shipped to your house, no FFL required.

This is perfect for people who want different grip sizes or want a pro to stipple their grip since now you can just send the hunk of plastic through the regular mail. And if they/you mess up…you’re only out $45.

Integrated Red Dot

Sig Sauer joins others with a cutout for a red dot sight available from the factory.

The twist is that theirs comes with a red dot sight installed as well. The “RX’ model comes with Sig’s own Romeo 1 red dot.

While not as proven as other red dot sights, having shot with one I’d have no problem carrying one or stacking it up next to a Leupold or Trijicon.

Take Down

The takedown of this pistol is easy and can be done without pulling the trigger. All you do is lock the slide back, rotate the takedown lever clockwise and then slide off the upper half the gun.

I have noticed that it is easier to put the slide back on with an empty magazine inserted because it lifts the slide lock and makes it easier to move the slide rearward and rotate the takedown pin counterclockwise.

Accuracy & Reliability

The gun is accurate enough to be used in a competition and will easily outshoot most shooters.

The gun functions and fires all hollow point and plinking ammo you can feed through it into one ragged hole if you do your part.

However, there are a few things to note about the accuracy of this gun.

The trigger blade is large and deeply curved. Until you get used to it the trigger can be a serious hindrance to accuracy.

The trigger pull is consistent with no stacking and seems to be within the 6-7 lbs that a striker fired gun needs.

Stacking is where the trigger gets heavier as you pull it until it breaks, common on older pistol designs, especially double action triggers.

Finally, the grip panels are good and the overall width of the grip can be tailored by ordering one of several different available plastic frames.

Ergonomics

This gun feels very much like a Sig.

The high bore axis makes it feel a little like holding a ray gun but it is very comfortable in the hand.

The plastic frame feels warm even in cold weather and the grip panels feel almost like skateboard tape, but without the sand. It’s a subdued stippling that works better than it looks. I hate saying this but…the gun almost needs to be felt in hand and fired to appreciate it.

The slide serrations should be larger, I had trouble racking the slide with sweaty hands. Deep slide serrations like those found on the S&W M&P would be great here.

Truth be told, I have huge hands so this might be a slight bias but the P320 feels good in the hand…but I don’t like the mag release or the baseplate.

I had trouble in both bare and gloved hand with the mag dropping free for a reload. This is definitely a problem and if you carry the compact or subcompact models you might have the same problem.

This is because the magazine floorplate is a piece of the grip and if you have a meaty palm then you’ll prevent the magazine from dropping free. I never had any problems with the magazine jamming and not coming out, just an ergonomic problem with the gun in general.

The feeling of the pistol is hand feels wonky with a loaded magazine, once you put rounds in the gun it handles like a dream, despite the high bore axis.

I don’t use the slide lock to run the gun but it is easy to use if you’re inclined.

The magazines when I first got them were very, very stiff and had to be downloaded by 2. The fix was for the magazines needed to be left loaded for two weeks, then you can load them to capacity.

The trigger is nothing special…it’s a decent striker fired trigger without stacking and decent weight.

I have large fingers but many report the trigger blade being too wide and uncomfortable to shoot. I didn’t find any problems while shooting, but the ladies who shot my gun had to use almost their entire finger.

Quality & Durability

The Sig P320 is an entry-level Sig gun. That doesn’t mean that it is low quality.

Sig Sauer makes by far the best polymer framed guns in the world and by far some of the most accurate and dependable pistols. You must accept the fact though…the grip frame is made to be almost disposable.

This is important because the plastic of the 320 isn’t as resilient as Glocks or M&Ps.

All the models offer Picatinny rails that are squared away under the barrel, in front of the trigger guard for mounting a light or laser. The whole gun, finish included just seems more susceptible to dings, and scratches…more so than any other gun I’ve ever used.

The finish on the gun is said to be the same as on other guns, but my Sig P250, the predecessor of the P320, seems infinitely more durable with regards to finish. This, of course, doesn’t hurt the reliability of the gun, just affects the quality and long-term appearance.

I live in South Florida, and in December the average temperature is still around 80 degrees with 70% or so humidity.

Guns rust literally on store shelves here, but the Sig P320 doesn’t. The first week I got this pistol I took it kayaking and I accidentally dropped the whole pistol into a pool of salt water.

I did nothing more than field strip it and reassemble it wet. Never had a problem with rust or reliability.

Applications

Guns obviously have more than one use but a .50 BMG rifle is bad for plinking just like a .22 LR pistol is bad for self-defense.

The Sig Sauer P320 is good for many things but there are a few models that are better suited than others.

The RX Carry is probably the most capable of the bunch. It comes with a red dot sight mounted on the slide. The carry model, in general, is a great size, it’s plenty big enough to use for serious work but small enough to conceal.

The Tacops models are a good model for duty use if you are an officer or security guard that can choose their own weapon. The factory included 21 rounds magazines are only useful for open carry or for competition/range use.

Aftermarket Support

Currently there the Sig P320 lags behind the classic Sig guns in regards for professional quality gear but it is being embraced by and large by consumer gear manufacturers.

If more agencies and large Security firms adopt the Sig P320 we might see a rise in the duty gear selection but only time will tell.

Holsters

Nearly every custom Kydex maker has holsters for this gun so for concealed carry or for range use you should be fine. Including holsters for weapon lights, red dot sights, and suppressor height sights.

If you’re an officer or security guard that can choose their own weapon this is a great pistol but it can be difficult to find retention holsters.

There are the typical level 2 and level 3 drop leg and duty holsters available from the usual suspects. However, if you need a holster for plainclothes police or detective work you’re better off with a shoulder holster than looking for a concealable holster with retention.

Magazines

The biggest downside of the Sig Sauer p320 is the premium price of magazines.

That goes for the full capacity and the state compliant models with limited round counts.

Sig Sauer does offer extended 21 round magazines to the tune of $58. Sig Sauer has also been plagued with high shipping costs and long wait times due to extreme order volume. Order from a retailer if you can find a deal or need the mags quick.

The magazines currently used are the same design from the p250 and they haven’t come down in price so I don’t believe they’ll come down in price anytime soon. Aftermarket magazines aren’t available but they could come depending on the long-term success, and honestly the competition use, of this pistol.

Weapon Light

No defensive gun is complete without a good light mounted on it, for the P320 (and most other guns) the Streamlight TLR-7 is an outstanding choice.

Delivering high lumens, great durability, and coming in at a decent price – it’s a must-have.

Parts & Upgrades

Sights aside, there aren’t many parts available for the P320 yet.

Sig Sauer offers replacement spring kits and grip modules as well as the previously mentioned caliber X-change kits. The offer a thin-bladed trigger that is available for purchase, it’s not an upgraded trigger, just a different blade.

The only “big” upgrade currently offered is the Apex Trigger kit available. I haven’t used the trigger myself so I can’t comment on its use but it is a completely flat faced trigger that looks like a competition upgrade and is getting good reports thus far.

Sig Sauer is also offering a grip module that has a built-in laser. It looks like an overgrown S&W Bodyguard .380 and is very expensive. You also lose the ability to mount a light and need a custom holster.

I’d steer clear, at least until the part has been proven in the field

Trapping muskrats has long been a traditional outdoor activity for many enthusiasts and an effective method for controlling the population of this small semi-aquatic rodent.

As a beginner, it’s important to understand the basics of muskrat behavior and their natural habitats to increase chances of success and ensure an ethical and humane trapping experience. With the right knowledge and equipment, even newcomers can quickly become skilled in trapping muskrats.

Recommended Traps

Body Grip Traps

Body grip traps are effective for muskrat trapping due to their design, which quickly and humanely dispatches the animal.

These traps have a large square frame and powerful springs, allowing muskrats to be easily targeted. When setting these traps, pay attention to the muskrat’s pathways and place the trap accordingly.

Coil Spring Traps

Coil spring traps are also a popular choice for trapping muskrats. These traps consist of two powerful springs attached to a jaw-like mechanism.

When the muskrat triggers the trap, the jaws close with great force, ensuring a quick capture. Coil spring traps should be placed in shallow water near muskrat dens or other frequented locations.

Foothold Traps

Foothold traps are a traditional choice for many trappers. These traps have two jaws that close when a muskrat steps on the trigger, securing the animal’s foot.

Foothold traps can be placed near muskrat dens, on floating debris, or on trails. These traps are known for their versatility, and can be used in different situations.

Conibear Traps

Conibear traps are a type of body grip trap with a rectangular frame. They are designed to capture and kill the muskrat with the strong force of the springs.

Conibear traps are best used in narrow channels where muskrats frequently swim or travel through.

Live Cage Traps

Live cage traps are a humane option for those who want to capture muskrats without causing harm. These traps consist of a metal cage with a door that closes when the muskrat enters to eat the bait inside.

This method allows the trapper to safely relocate the muskrat to another area. When using live cage traps, be sure to check them frequently to avoid causing unnecessary stress to the captured animal.

Float Traps

Float traps are a unique method of trapping muskrats that involve a floating platform, which is placed in water where muskrats are known to forage.

These platforms typically have traps, such as foothold or body grip traps, attached to them. When the muskrat climbs onto the floating platform, it triggers the trap, ensuring a successful capture.

Trap Setting Techniques

Den and Burrow Sets

Den and burrow sets are ideal for targeting muskrats within their natural habitats. To set up a den set, locate an active muskrat burrow entrance, either underwater or above water within the bank. Place a trap at the entrance, ensuring it is stable and secure.

For burrow sets, position the trap inside the burrow, making sure it is properly concealed. Successfully trapping muskrats with den and burrow sets requires patience, observation, and proper trap placement.

Runway Sets

Muskrats frequently use established trails to move through their territory. A runway set aims to take advantage of these well-traveled paths. Locate a muskrat run, typically characterized by a narrow underwater channel with a clearly visible entrance.

Place a trap within the run approximately six to twelve inches below the water surface. Keep the trap secured with a stake or weight so that it remains in position. The muskrat will swim into the trap as it moves along its usual route.

Slide Sets

A slide set capitalizes on muskrats’ tendency to slide into the water from the bank. Identify an active slide by looking for a narrow, worn path leading from the bank into the water.

Place a trap on the slide, submerging it slightly under the water. Make sure the trap is stable, preferably anchored to nearby vegetation or a stake. As the muskrat uses the slide, it will encounter the trap and be captured.

Float Sets

Float sets are an effective technique for trapping muskrats in deep water. To construct a float set, create or purchase a floating platform made of wood or foam. Attach the trap to the float and anchor it in a location where muskrats are known to be active.

Bait the trap with vegetables or muskrat attractant, making it an enticing target for the muskrats. When the muskrat visits the float set, it will be caught in the trap. Remember to regularly check and reset these traps as needed.

Muskrat Bait and Lure

Natural Food Sources

Muskrats have a diverse diet consisting of various plants and small aquatic animals. You can use some of these natural food sources to attract them to your trap. These include vegetation such as cattails, root vegetables like carrots and parsnip, apples, and other parts of plants that muskrats may eat.

Additionally, muskrats are known to consume small aquatic animals like crayfish, mussels, frogs, and insects. Using these natural food sources as bait can enhance the effectiveness of your trap.

Commercial Lures

There are commercially available muskrat lures that you can use to attract them more effectively. These lures often contain scents or ingredients that are highly attractive to muskrats, including oil of anise.

When using commercial lures, carefully read and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to ensure successful trapping. Keep in mind that some lures may also attract other animals such as beavers, raccoons, or coons, so be prepared to secure your trap accordingly.

Homemade Lures

If you prefer to make your own muskrat lure, you can use some of the natural food sources mentioned earlier, combined with additional scents or ingredients to enhance their attractiveness.

One common homemade lure is a mixture of peanut butter and apple bits. This combination produces a strong scent that can lure muskrats toward your trap.

However, homemade lures may not be as potent as commercial options, and you may need to test different formulations to find the most effective combination for your specific trapping location. Remember to be cautious when using homemade lures, as they might also attract unintended animals to your trap.

Trapping Safety and Equipment

Protective Clothing

When trapping muskrats, wear protective clothing to ensure safety and reduce the risk of injury. Wearing gloves helps protect your hands from sharp objects and animal bites.

Additionally, waders are crucial for navigating the wet environments where muskrats are commonly found. This water-resistant gear enables trappers to move comfortably and safely in shallow water while setting and checking the traps.

Trap Preparation and Maintenance

Proper preparation and maintenance of muskrat traps are crucial for optimal performance and to ensure the wellbeing of the animal. Follow the guidelines below:

• Clean and deodorize traps between each use to eliminate any human scent or remnants of previous catches.
• Check trap mechanisms for functionality by testing the trigger and springs before each use.
• Remove any rust or debris that could hinder the trap’s performance or impede its ability to close properly.

Using well-maintained equipment will make your trapping experience more efficient, effective, and humane.

Trap Anchoring and Staking

An essential aspect of muskrat trapping is the correct anchoring and staking of traps. This aids in:

• Swiftly submerging the trapped animal, ensuring a quick and humane end.
• Preventing the loss or theft of traps.
• Reducing the risk of non-target species coming into contact with the trap.

Use sturdy stakes or tangle stakes to anchor traps securely in position. Some options include:

• Slide sets: These are an effective method for trapping muskrats. Ensure that the trap is appropriately weighted, such as using a #1½ trap or using a tangle stake, to quickly pull the trapped animal underwater.
• Bank den sets: Place a bodygrip trap at the entrance of a muskrat den and anchor it with a stake or sliding wire system to secure it in place.

Properly anchoring and staking traps will make your trapping experience more successful and ethical.

Catching Multiple Muskrats

Use of Multiple Traps

Catching multiple muskrats can be made more efficient by strategically placing a variety of traps around muskrat habitats. Given that muskrats are abundant in many areas and relatively easy to trap, employing multiple traps can help increase the chances of capturing them successfully.

Using different types of traps, such as wire mesh traps, box traps, or body-gripping traps, allows trappers to target various muskrat behaviors and movement patterns.

When placing multiple traps, it is important to look for muskrat signs, such as burrows, tunnels, and trails. Observe their feeding areas and place traps near their most active locations. This strategy will increase the chances of catching multiple muskrats, as they will likely be attracted to their preferred feeding and resting spots.

Colony Trapping

Colony trapping is another effective method for catching multiple muskrats. A muskrat colony trap is designed to catch several muskrats at once without the need for bait.

These traps are made of wire mesh and are typically longer (e.g., 36-inch) to accommodate more muskrats. The trap doors are gravity-operated, allowing muskrats to enter but not exit.

To effectively use a colony trap, place the trap in shallow water near muskrat activity signs. The trap should be positioned at an angle, with one end resting against the bank or vegetation and the other end submerged in the water.

This setup encourages muskrats to enter the trap while they are swimming or searching for food.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most effective trapping method for muskrats?

Muskrats can be effectively captured using foothold traps, live traps, or colony traps. For example, the Tomahawk Rigid Muskrat Colony Trap is 36 inches long and can catch up to 10 muskrats at once. The most suitable method depends on the trapper’s goals and preferences, as well as local regulations.

How can I safely remove muskrats from my pond?

To safely remove muskrats from a pond, use live traps, such as Havahart live muskrat traps. Position the trap near a muskrat’s entry or exit point to increase the chances of successful trapping. After capturing the muskrat, relocate it to another area, complying with local wildlife regulations.

Which bait works best for catching muskrats?

Muskrats are primarily herbivorous and prefer plant-based baits. However, when using slide sets—a technique that places foothold traps along trails where muskrats enter and exit the water—no bait or lure is typically required.

What is the proper way to set up a muskrat live trap?

To set up a muskrat live trap, choose a trap at least 30-40 inches in length. Place the trap near a muskrat slide or at a known entry/exit point. Monitor the trap regularly and always follow the trap’s instructions and applicable regulations.

Are there specific regulations for muskrat trapping?

Yes. Regulations for muskrat trapping vary by state, province, or country. Trappers need to follow local laws, including licensing requirements, trapping methods, and the relocation or disposal of captured animals.

What are the common uses for captured muskrats?

Captured muskrats can be harvested for their fur, meat, or simply removed for pond or land management purposes. If trapping for meat or fur, trappers must ensure they adhere to local wildlife regulations and sustainable trapping practices.

Wrapping up the Guide to Trapping Muskrats Successfully

Muskrats are among the easiest furbearers to trap, making it an accessible venture for those interested in learning about trapping.

Choosing the appropriate trap, understanding helpful techniques for setting traps, and selecting the best bait and lure can drastically improve the chances of successful capture. Next, check out our Complete Guide to Woodchuck Trapping!

Given the ever-increasing proximity of neighbors due to suburban sprawl and the boost in sales of .22 caliber sound suppressors for range and field use, it’s little wonder why subsonic .22 Long Rifle (LR) loads have grown by leaps and bounds in recent years. In fact, MidwayUSA currently lists more subsonic .22 LR options than supersonic on its website. There are several reasons for this shift: Beyond maintaining positive relationships with nearby residents, subsonic .22 LR loads also don’t frighten livestock or game, and their use helps preserve one’s hearing—especially when coupled with a quality suppressor, and they’re often more accurate than their supersonic brethren, too.

To qualify as “subsonic,” the projectile mustn’t break the speed of sound, and that rate varies greatly. Depending on the temperature, humidity, air pressure and elevation, it’s reported to range between 1087 fps and 1129 fps. For extra “cushion,” I opt for loads with velocities at (or less than) 1050 fps. At such speeds, the ammunition doesn’t produce the associated “crack” of supersonic ammo across a host of climates and locations.

Within the realm of subsonic .22 LR ammunition, there exists a multitude of configurations, and not all are well-suited for hunting small game. Outside of a restrained marksman who can consistently make head shots on squirrel-size game, lead, round-nose subsonic loads should be relegated to range work. Even lethal hits will often result in a lost animal. This is particularly true of squirrels, which will quickly scurry into a nest or hole in a tree.

To counteract the loss of energy and terminal performance due to lower velocities, you need a bullet that maximizes the wound channel(s). The most lethal bullet designs for use at subsonic velocities will be a traditional hollow-point or specialized, segmenting hollow-point. I’ve experienced good results with both designs.

Beyond terminal performance, the loads must function flawlessly in the rifle, too. Due to their low velocities—and, at times, low bullet weights—cycling can be particularly problematic for semi-automatic rifles. Such is not the case with bolt-, pump- and lever-action rifles.

For this article, I selected six current, subsonic .22 LR loads suitable for small-game hunting and subjected them to a barrage of tests to evaluate relative sound, accuracy (five-consecutive, five-shot groups at 50 yards), functioning, velocity and terminal performance (in modeling clay at 25 yards). The rifle employed was a Ruger 10/22 fitted with a 16 ½-inch Tactical Solutions barrel with a YHM Mite suppressor, topped with a Weaver Grand Slam 4-16x44mm riflescope. In addition to the particulars of each load and the test results, I also identified the advantages and drawbacks, if any. Please keep in mind that these results are from a single rifle, and each rifle has different preferences. Nevertheless, hopefully this will ease your decision-making process.

1. Winchester Subsonic 42 Max• Particulars: Manufactured in Australia, Winchester’s Subsonic 42 Max features—unsurprisingly—a cavernous, truncated-nose, hollow-point, 42-grain lead bullet propelled to 1065 fps. That equates to 106 ft.-lbs. of energy. MSRP: $5.39 per 50-rnd box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Across a Competition Electronics ProChrono Digital Chronograph at five feet, Subsonic 42 Max loads averaged 1001 fps, and were fairly loud. I ranked them as the third loudest. Concerning accuracy, the Aussie loading was disappointing; for five consecutive, five-shot groups at 50 yards, the average was 1.63 inches—the largest of the batch. That being said, functioning in the semi-automatic test rifle was flawless, and the bullets delivered devastating terminal ballistics in the clay. Beyond a large cavity, the bullet traversed the full length of the clay block.

• Advantages: Noteworthy terminal ballistics, flawless cycling, reasonable price

• Drawbacks: Disappointing accuracy, fairly loud

2. Winchester Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic

• Particulars: Available on a somewhat inconsistent basis, Winchester‘s Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic load features a 40-grain lead, truncated-cone, hollow-point bullet propelled to 1065 fps. Also manufactured in Australia, the bullet has five less ft.-lbs. of energy than the abovementioned load. MSRP: $4.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Posting an average velocity of 1042 fps, Winchester’s Super-X 22 Long Rifle Subsonic load was the fastest of the bunch, and it was the loudest, too. Moreover, it produced the second largest groups; for 25 shots, the mean was an unremarkable 1.53 inches. There was one failure to eject. As for terminal performance, the 40-grain bullet created a massive wound channel and traveled nearly the length of the block of clay.

• Advantages: Impressive terminal ballistics, fast, relatively inexpensive

• Drawbacks: Unsatisfactory accuracy, loud

3. ELEY Subsonic Hollow

• Particulars: A true premium-grade .22 LR load, Subsonic Hollow is manufactured by ELEY in England and features a 38-grain lead, hollow-point bullet propelled to 1040 fps. Energy is 96 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $9.29 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: With a mean velocity of 993 fps, ELEY’s Subsonic Hollow was third fastest, but second loudest. In addition to delivering flawless functioning, the load also proved to be the most accurate; in fact, five, five-shot groups averaged 0.89-inch. In a match-grade rifle, it’d be scary accurate. Despite a great showing in the accuracy department, its terminal performance was somewhat lacking. Although ample to deliver a quick, fatal blow to small varmints and game, larger species might travel a bit further before succumbing.

• Advantages: clean, accurate

• Drawbacks: expensive, smallish wound channel, somewhat loud

4. CCI Quiet-22 Segmented HP

• Particulars: Propelled to a modest 710 fps, what the CCI Quiet-22 copper-plated 40-grain segmented hollow-point bullet lacks in energy—45 ft.-lbs.—it makes up for in terminal performance. During penetration, the projectile breaks into three pieces to increase damage to vital organs and structures. MSRP: $5.93 per 50 rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: From the 16 ½-inch barrel of the 10/22, Quiet-22 Subsonic HP ammunition averaged a modest 664 fps—little wonder why it didn’t cycle in the semi-automatic rifle. Nonetheless, it was incredibly quiet—the least report of any tested—and acceptably accurate. For 25 shots, it had a mean of 1.30 inches. Concerning terminal performance, the Segmented HP created a large initial cavity before splitting into three pieces, each of which penetrated deeply. It’s a devastating design, and the sound it produces when striking is equally eye opening.

• Advantages: Remarkable terminal performance, reduced risk of ricochet and over penetration, copper-plated, good accuracy

• Drawbacks: Won’t cycle most semi-automatic actions

5. CCI Suppressor 22 LR

• Particulars: Designed for flawless functioning in semi-automatic rifles, CCI’s Suppressor 22 LR propels a non-plated, 45-grain lead hollow-point bullet to 970 fps. Energy is 94 ft.-lbs. MSRP: $5.12 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: Despite propelling the heaviest bullet in the test, CCI’s Suppressor 22 LR load still averaged 931 fps, and its perceived report was the second quietest. As for accuracy, it was the only real competitor for the ELEY Hollow load; its mean was a respectable 1.17 inches. The 10/22 cycled without issue when loaded with Suppressor 22 LR. Moreover, the heavy bullet created a sizable cavity in the clay before exiting. This load has a lot going for it.

• Advantages: Excellent terminal performance, modest cost, quiet, reliable cycling, good accuracy

• Drawbacks: None

6. RWS Subsonic HP

• Particulars: Manufactured in Germany, RWS’ Subsonic HP load has a traditional-style 40-grain lead hollow-point bullet travelling 1033 fps, for 95 ft.-lbs. of energy. MSRP: $6.99 per 50-rnd. box; midwayusa.com.

• Test: With an average velocity of 977 fps, RWS Subsonic HP was middle-ground, and so too was its report. Accuracy wise, the round had a mean of 1.25 inches—not too bad. Cycling, however, was unreliable. While lacking in functioning, it was extraordinary with regards to terminal performance; in fact, this round produced the largest wound channel of all tested. Quarry won’t travel far (if not stopped outright).

• Advantages: Impressive terminal performance (largest cavity), mild report

• Drawbacks: costly, wax coating easily gets on hands, unreliable functioning in semi-automatic rifles

If you’re not using subsonic loads, you’re really missing out. Go ahead and give some of these loads a try when hunting small game, and if you’re like me, you’re likely to stick with them.