Most household farms plant fruit trees for a year-round supply of nutritious crops to market or consume. But there are other types of trees, aside from fruit trees, that are edible and profitable at the same time, such as nut trees. In this article, we’ll help you identify 17 of the most common nut trees, so you can select the best option for your farm.

The most common nut tree types include pecan, hazelnut, almond, chestnut, cashew, pistachio, hickory, macadamia, pine nut, black walnut, English walnut, Brazil nut, butternut, oak nut (acorn), Pili nut, beech, and Ginkgo nut tree. Each of them has unique characteristics and features that can help you identify them among others.

Aside from being delicious additions to your meal, the nuts of these trees offer great health benefits and can be a rich source of many vitamins and minerals. Let’s dive into more details about the characteristics, growing conditions, and benefits of these nut trees.

17 Most Common Types of Nut Trees

17 Most Common Nut Tree Types Pecan tree Macadamia nut tree Pili nut tree Hazelnut tree Pine nut tree Beech tree Almond tree Black walnut tree Gingko tree Chestnut tree English walnut tree Oak tree (Acorn) Cashew nut tree Brazil nut tree Hickory nut tree Pistachio nut tree Butternut tree

1. Pecans are fast-growing nut trees

Pecans are native to the United States and thrive in a variety of soil types, including wet soil. They require plenty of water and a significant amount of space to grow.

These nut trees are fast growers, gaining at least 2 – 4 feet in height per year from when they are young. Pecan nuts are rich in vitamins and healthy fats, which make them a valuable addition to your garden.

2. Hazelnuts are prolific nut producers

Hazelnuts are also known as filberts, and they are grown in many parts of the world, including Europe, Asia, and North America. They are used in a variety of culinary applications, including baking, confectionery, and as a snack.

Hazelnut trees are resilient and can grow in different soil conditions. Their nuts are also a good source of protein, fiber, and healthy fats. They are prone to Eastern Filbert Blight, but resistant varieties do exist.

3. Almonds are versatile nut trees

Almond trees are one of the first trees to blossom in the spring, producing beautiful pink and white flowers. Most almond varieties are self-pollinating, which means they do not require cross-pollination with another tree to produce nuts. These trees are well-adapted to dry climates and can tolerate drought conditions, which makes them easy to manage.

The nuts of these trees are used in a variety of culinary applications, but their trademark is that they can be processed into products such as almond milk and almond butter. These nuts are also known for their nutritional content, containing vitamin E and healthy fats.

4. Chestnut trees are long-lived trees

Chestnut trees can live for several hundred years, with some specimens reaching over 1,000 years old. They can grow up to 100 feet tall and have a broad, spreading canopy. Their wood is a good source of lumber, which is also high in tannin and has been used for centuries in the tanning of leather.

They produce edible nuts, which are a popular food crop used in a variety of culinary applications, including roasting, baking, and as a flour substitute.

If you have a bee apiary, you may want to consider planting chestnut trees to produce amber-colored honey which has natural antimicrobial properties, and a low glycemic index, which makes it good for diabetes patients.

5. Cashews produce both nuts and fruits

Cashews are tropical nut trees that grow well in warm climates. They produce both a nut and a fruit, with the nut being the more commonly consumed of the two. The cashew nut is surrounded by a shell that contains a toxic substance called urushiol, which can cause skin irritation and other allergic reactions, so you may need to roast or steam them before consuming them.

Cashew nuts have various culinary applications and can also be processed into cashew butter, cashew milk, and other products. The nuts of these trees are believed to have several health benefits, including improving heart health, reducing inflammation, and promoting healthy bones.

6. Pistachios are popular nut trees

Pistachios are known for their unique green-colored nuts, which are a rich source of protein, fiber, healthy fats, and many vitamins and minerals, making them a popular health food.

Pistachio trees are dioecious, which means that there are separate male and female trees, and both are required for pollination and nut production. They are well-adapted to dry climates and can live for several decades, with some species reaching over 100 years old.

7. Hickories are majestic growers

Hickory trees take about 10 – 15 years before they can bear nuts, but they can live for centuries. The nuts they produce are small and sweet, with extremely sturdy shells. These majestic trees grow up to 60 feet tall and require ample space to develop.

They have beautiful fall foliage and are considered an important part of many forest ecosystems because they provide food and habitat for a variety of wildlife species, including squirrels and birds.

8. Macadamia nut trees are profitable nut trees

Macadamia trees produce nuts that can fetch premium prices in the market. These nuts have a very hard shell that requires a special tool to crack open. Macadamia nuts are high in healthy fats, with a high percentage of monounsaturated fatty acids.

However, the trees are slow-growing and can take several years to produce nuts. Either way, if you want to add ornaments to your orchard or farm, you can plant macadamia trees for their attractive foliage in addition to their nuts.

9. Pine nut trees are produced from specific pine trees

Pine nut trees have long, thin needles that grow in clusters of two to five. These trees produce large, woody cones that can be up to 10 inches long.

The bark of a pine nut tree is usually gray or brown and has a scaly texture. As the tree ages, the bark may become rough and deeply furrowed. Pine nut trees can grow quite large, with some species reaching heights of 100 feet or more. However, there are also smaller varieties that are well-suited to home gardens.

10. Black walnut trees produce edible and nutritious nuts

Black walnut trees are native to the United States and are often grown for their high-quality wood used in making furniture. These trees produce a strong-tasting nut, providing a unique flavor compared to other walnut varieties.

It takes 7 years before they can produce their first nut crop, but full maturation is expected only until 25 years of age. If you opt to plant these nut-bearing trees, perhaps consider planting them solely, as they can inhibit the growth of other plants if grown together.

11. Brazil nut trees produce nuts that have high selenium content

Brazil nut trees are native to South America and produce large, edible nuts rich in selenium. They can grow up to 50 meters (165 feet) tall and have a broad, spreading canopy that can reach up to 30 meters (100 feet) in diameter, providing shade for other plants and animals.

The fruit of the Brazil nut tree is a large, woody capsule weighing about 4- 5 pounds that store 10 to 25 individual Brazil nuts, which are a valuable food source for humans and animals.

These nuts are highly nutritious and are a good source of protein, healthy fats, and several important minerals, including selenium, magnesium, and zinc. They are also rich in antioxidants, which can help protect the body against damage from free radicals.

Their rich, creamy flavor and crunchy texture make them good as a topping for salads, oatmeal, and yogurt, or as an ingredient in desserts like cookies and cakes.

12. Butternut trees are cold-tolerant nut trees

Butternut trees, also known as white walnut trees, are cold-hardy nut trees native to North America. They can grow quite large, so you may want to consider giving them ample space in your garden when planting.

These trees are unique and attractive and are easily identified by their distinctive bark, compound leaves, and oblong nuts. While the species is currently facing threats from a fungal disease called butternut canker, efforts are underway to conserve and protect these trees for future generations.

13. English walnuts are well-known nut-bearing trees

English walnut trees are easy to identify by their long, narrow leaves, smooth gray bark, and large, oval-shaped nuts with a hard outer shells. The nuts are highly valued for their nutritional content and delicious flavor and are used in a variety of culinary applications, including baking, cooking, and snacking.

14. Oak trees produce acorns

Although more valued for lumber production, oak trees also produce nuts, and these nuts are called acorns. Acorns are a staple food source for various wildlife species. While not typically consumed by humans, they can be transformed into nutritious flour and meal options.

15. Pili nut trees produce highly favored nuts

Pili nut trees can grow up to 20 meters tall and produce large, ovoid drupe fruits that are about 4-7 cm long. The fruit has a hard, woody shell that encloses the edible kernel or nut.

The pili nut itself is elongated, pointed at one end, and has brown, papery skin. The nut is rich in oil and has a sweet, buttery flavor.

16. Beech trees produce edible nuts

Beech trees are slow-growing and can live for several hundred years. They typically have a tall, straight trunk with a rounded crown of branches at the top.

The bark of a beech tree is smooth and gray, with a unique texture that resembles elephant skin. Their flowers are small and inconspicuous and are usually not noticeable.

They produce a prickly burr fruit that contains two or three triangular nuts. The nuts are about 1 inch long and have a hard, woody shell.

17. Ginkgo biloba is a resilient type of nut tree

Ginkgo nut trees are known for their resilience and ability to withstand harsh environmental conditions, including pollution and drought. They are often planted in urban areas as hardy and attractive ornamental trees.

These trees can grow up to 30 meters (100 feet) tall and 9 meters (30 feet) wide, and produce small, yellowish-brown nuts that are enclosed in fleshy, plum-like fruit. The fruit has a strong, unpleasant odor that is often compared to the smell of rancid butter or vomit.

Ginkgo nuts are highly valued in traditional Chinese medicine for their medicinal properties. They are believed to cure cough, fever, diarrhea, and even gonorrhea.

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Though holographic sights are often lumped in with red dot sights, like EOTech says – not a red dot.

I created this page for purists by carefully screening the best holographic sights, although I did also test an extremely popular reflex sight that is often mistaken for a holo sight.

I further compare budget, battery power, reticles, size & weight & field of view to make finding the perfect holographic sight easy.

Top 6 Holographic Sights In 2024

What is a holographic sight? A holographic image of a reticle is essentially “sandwiched” between lenses and illuminated by a laser diode. Looking through the sight, the reticle appears to be superimposed in the distance somewhere between the sight and the target.

What are the benefits of a holosight design?

• Fast target acquisition
• For close and long-range use
• In-focused picture due to simultaneous downrange focusing on target and reticle
• Heavy duty – can use with front lens damage
• Reticle remains the same size when used with a magnifier

But, there’s no ignoring the drawbacks.

• Price – they often start at $400 (approx.) for entry-level models
• Bulky – due to their design, they’re not equipped to be mounted to handguns
• Limited availability for true holographic sights
• Battery hog – laser diode requires a lot of power to operate

In the mid ’90s, EOTech was specifically created to bring holographic sights in a compact, rugged, and effective design for small arms to the commercial market. They may have been the only manufacturer of the holo sight and started the trend, but more recently, Vortex has joined the game.

With only two manufacturers producing this type of sight, it restricts availability and likely prevents economical prices to the civilian consumer market.

To be fair, the holographic sight requires a sophisticated manufacturing process, and so it costs more than red dots. But, I’ll get into the differences between red dots and holographic sights later. For now, let’s get into this years latest and best holo sights you must consider!

6 Best Holographic Sights on the Market

1. Vortex Razor AMG UH-1 Gen II – Best Vortex Holographic Sight

Overall, there are noteworthy differences between the AMG UH-1 Gen 1 versus AMG UH-1 Gen II holographic sights. The new version includes a larger rear window, tool-less battery cap, and night vision compatibility. Though it has performance upgrades, there is one major change that may be missed.

Pros:

• 1 MOA dot
• EBR-CQB reticle
• Tool-less battery cap
• Rear-facing controls
• Night vision compatible

Cons:

• Battery life

Holographic sights have always had poor battery runtime compared to reflex red dot sights. This remains true with Vortex’s gen II holosight. It takes a CR123A battery estimated to provide 1500 hours of runtime based on medium settings with normal use. I know that the auto shut-off after 14 hours is a helpful feature but can be disabled for instantly ready use.

However, conservative use of the AMG UH-1 will still only provide a maximum of 62 days (approx.) of operation. I recommend keeping spare batteries on hand since the micro-USB port has been removed. I’ll miss that feature as it used to allow for recharging batteries. At least the battery compartment cover is now tool-less.

Though no specs are provided, Vortex says they increased the size of the rear sight window to expand its HUD-like appeal and apparent FOV. I love that it’s IPX8 waterproof, was upgraded with XR FMC coatings, and is now night vision compatible. It has a rear-facing, dedicated NV button that puts the sight into night mode with reticle brightness that is safe for use with NVDs.

All other favorite features remained the same such as the Weaver/Picatinny quick detach mount, ½ MOA turrets, FHQ glare-reducing, stealth-improving technology, and the ArmorTek coating. The EBR-CQB reticle consists of a 1 MOA dot for long-range use, segmented circle, and bottom triangle post for extreme CQB performance.

I like that the upgrades are productive, it’s covered under the VIP warranty, and it’s still good competition as an alternative in an EOTech-dominated market.

2. EOTech HHS I EXPS3-4 w/G33 Magnifier – Best Tactical Holographic Sight

The HHS I (Holographic Hybrid Sight) EXPS3-4 comes with the G33 Magnifier. It’s the EXPS3 sight with the 4 dot reticle and the G33 to get long-range sight.

Pros:

• Close-long range
• Side buttons
• NV compatible
• Includes magnifier
• Switch-to-side mount

Cons:

• Price

Looking at the price alone, you’d wonder why you’re paying more for the EXPS3 HWS. However, you’re getting a 2-in-1 bundle with this buy. It might cost close to a grand, but the included G33 magnifier makes up the difference, and I think it’s worth it.

The EXPS3 sight is 11.2 oz and is 3.8 x 2.3 x 2.9″ in size – slightly more compact than some other EOTech models. It has a side-loading battery compartment that takes 1 x CR123 for 1,000 hours of use at nominal setting (12).

There are a total of 30 brightness settings with 10 compatible with NV (Night Vision). The HHS will automatically shut down after 8 hours of non-use, but it’s also programmable to shut down after 4. I found that it depends which up or down button you press when activating the sight.

The reticle has 4x 1 MOA dots to provide holding over points for medium to long-range shots. Calibrated for the .223, it can reach out to 600 yards which I know you you can easily do with the 3x G33 (Generation III 3x) magnifier.

The magnifier is 3.9″ long, and fits to all holo sight models with a 7mm riser. Eye relief is rather restrictive with only 2.2″, but many magnifiers have comparable eye relief. The switch-to-side mount is especially convenient to move the magnifier out of the way. It has a 1.18″ (30 mm) height that clears most low-profile, flip-up, rear iron sights.

With everything put together, I would say that the EXPS3 holo sight that can give you the upper hand in any close quarter scenario to every long-range observational need.

3. EOTech XPS3 – Best Holographic Sight for AR-15

If you’re planning on seeing in the dark with your AR-15, you’ll want to upgrade your sight with an XPS3 model. The extra benefit of NV with all the same great features of the second generation models can be found right here.

Pros:

• NV compatible
• Lightweight
• Compact
• Waterproof
• Built-in mount

Cons:

• Rear controls

What’s the difference between the XPS2 and the XPS3? The XPS3 is NV compatible since it’s built with 30 brightness settings that allows 10 of those to work with Gen 1-3 NV devices.

What’s the difference between the XPS3 and the EXPS3? The EXPS3 has side button controls and a quick detach lever mount that this model lacks, but it’s slightly heavier at 11.2 oz.

The XPS3 is the smallest and lightest sight of all EOTech’s HWS sights. Weighing only 9 oz and is 3.8 x 2.1 x 2.5″ in size, it makes for a lightweight holo system leaving plenty of rail space for additional accessories on your AR-15, and yes, you’ll want to mount some extra gadgets like a magnifier.

Built with an integrated 1″ weaver or Picatinny mount, it’ll fit your MSR as easily as the EXPS3 fit mine.

Like all EOTech sights, it’s fog-resistant and waterproof, and I did put it its quick detach mount alternative in a washing machine – no rinse cycle, just submersion. The XPS3 takes 1x CR123 lithium battery that can provide up to 1,000 hours of continuous use.

This model has the 68 MOA ring with 1 MOA center dot. Transition between 7 and 50 yards for CQB shooting and then ping steel out to 200 yards with the .223 calibrated reticle.

Since it’s NV compatible, works with a magnifier, and can co-witness with rear iron sights, I deem the XPS3 a versatile tool for many missions or hunts to come that’s perfect atop your flat top receiver or even on your shotgun.

However, the one thing I don’t like is that the rear controls are virtually inaccessible if you have a magnifier behind it. But the EOTech G33 magnifier has a side-to-switch mount so pushing it out of the way will allow access to the rubber buttons.

The XPS3 has the basics, plus some. I think that its size, light weight, and durable body makes for the ideal kind of sight to top your AR-15.

4. EOTech XPS2 – Best Sight for Competition Shooting

What benefits do you need from your sight for 3-gun comps? Speed, accuracy, durability, and the ability to transition from close to long-range distances. If you’re on a tight budget for a holo sight, the XPS2 will fit the bill.

Pros:

• Side controls
• Side-loading battery
• Quick detach lever
• Co-witness w/iron sights
• Fog/waterproof

Cons:

• No preferred brightness setting on start-up

The XPS2 is made for 3-gun competitions, and it’s a cheaper option versus EOTech’s Hybrid models. To get you on target at speeds expected of a holo sight, this model has a the 68 MOA ring with 1 MOA center dot.

With a .223, you can use the center dot for 50 and 200 yards and the bottom of the ring for close-range shots of 7 yards.

To see the reticle at its best in any condition, the XPS2 has 20 brightness levels to adjust to your preferred setting. However, you can’t save your preferred brightness setting as it will kick back to the default setting on start-up, this seems like a bit of a drawback to me. Note: this is non-compatible with NV gear.

With a CR123 lithium battery, you’ll have up to 600 hours of continuous use on nominal brightness setting at room temperature. I like the side-loading battery compartment with a threaded cap keeps the battery in place while keeping dirt, debris, and water out.

While this sight can get you out to 300 yards faster and more accurately than iron sights alone, it is compatible with use of a magnifier for when you need easy transition for close to long-range shooting.

5. EOTech 512 – Best EOTech Holographic Sight

The 512 is a long-time favorite, and I can see why. With an entry-level price tag (for a holo sight) and all the good ol’ tech you need to get dead-on in an instant, the 512 does it.

Pros:

• Price
• Battery life
• 1 MOA dot
• 1x magnification
• Unlimited eye relief

Cons:

• Bulky

The 512 takes 2 AA batteries to operate and this makes for a longer and heavier build. It’s 11.5 oz and 5.6 x 2 x 2.5″ in size. It’ll take up some rail space, but it’s still so much shorter than a LPVO (low power variable optic).

You can depend on that battery juice to provide up to 1000 hours of continuous use with lithium batteries at brightness setting 12, or you can expect up to 600 hours with alkaline batteries. No need to detach the sight to replace batteries as it has a top-loading battery compartment with a cap latch.

To get zeroed, adjustments can be made with a coin or flathead screwdriver since it features the cross-slot style. I really like the aluminum hood and 10 ft submersible body was made to endure the abuse of extreme conditions.

The reticle is the popular, and one of my favorites, the 1 MOA dot with a 68 MOA ring intended for close-range and fast target acquisition shooting. This EOTech is compatible to mount to both 1″ Weaver and standard Picatinny rails.

With 20 brightness settings, widely available AA batteries, and a programmable 4 or 8 hour auto shut-off, I would recommend the 512 as a simple and affordable holosight for both beginners and intermediate shooters.

6. Holosun 510C Red Dot Sight

The Holosun 510C is not a holographic sight but is often compared to them. I test it out to give you a comparison between EOTech holographic sights and the Holosun.

Pros:

• Dual power sources
• Ultra-long battery life
• Shake Awake
• Build quality
• Quick detach mount

Cons:

• Reflex sight

As a general rule, holographic and reflex sights are both red dot sights. The main difference is that the Holosun has LED technology versus the laser diode in a holographic sight. It’s not necessarily a drawback but a key design difference I think is worth noting.

A very attractive feature I find crucial, and you will too, is the long-lasting battery life and dual power sources compared in my full test review. Auto mode provides ambient-controlled brightness and draws power from the integrated solar panel.

It’s ideal as a fail-safe for when the CR2032 battery fails in Manual mode.

With Shake Awake, you can adjust the sleep timer for “always-on” operation. The quick detach mount I thoroughly cover makes things easy and convenient for dismounts and remounts if you switch out optics on your AR-15 like myself and many others do.

No need to question build quality with the Holosun.

Torture tests should have everyone convinced that this is a sight that will last both you and I a lifetime.

What to Look for in a Holographic Sight System

The most popular question to be asked when looking to buy a holographic sight is how it differs from a red dot sight. Learn about that here and what features you need in a holo sight to get the right kind of features before you buy.

They’re not cheap optics, so you want to get it right the first time you choose.

Technology: Holographic Sights VS Red Dots

With their HUD displays, small and compact builds, and unlimited eye relief, it can be really difficult to tell the difference between a holo sight and a red dot. Add to that consumer misconception about the two, and it gets even harder.

A red dot and holo sight both may use the iconic “red dot” aiming point, but they have two completely different systems. A red dot uses an LED to illuminate a projected dot on coated glass.

Holo sights use a series of lasers and mirrors of a holographic image of a reticle that is sandwiched between glass. The appearance of the reticle to the eye seems to be projected in the distance either on the target or in between the target and the optic.

Because of this type of technology, holo sights are easier to use as you’re focusing on the target itself and the reticle becomes crisp and clear.

Build: Holographic Sights VS Red Dots

Holographic sights can be used in extreme conditions such as when the front lens gets damaged.

It doesn’t hinder the internal mechanics that seems to project the reticle out into the field. They often have a wider field of view (as in the size of the window lens) than red dots, and the center dot can be as small as 1 MOA.

However, the drawbacks to using a holographic sight are often a red dot’s advantages. Red dot sights have a much lower starting price. They’re widely available because the technology is less costly and is uncomplicated compared to holos.

LEDs don’t draw as much power as laser diodes and red dots can often be left on for 50,000 hours or 5 years. They’re also smaller and more compact and can be mounted to pistols.

While the differing features may not be of great concern to many consumers, the difference lies in the technology. Like many things, the choice between the two is a matter of preference.

For more about this, we wrote a full holographic versus red dot sight article, complete with photograph comparisons – check it out!

Budget/Price of a Holosight

Holographic sights are expensive optics often starting around $400 for base models. Combined in packages with other optics, such as a magnifier, they can cost $1000 (approx.) for the pair.

Due to budget restrictions and perceived value, many opt for a higher-end red dot sight over the price of a base model holographic sight. A high-end holographic sight can cost over $600.

Holographic Sight Brand

EOTech was the only manufacturer of holographic sights for the consumer market for shooting sports for just over a decade. Because of this, holo sight availability is limited. Vortex is now a player in the holographic sight industry, and it’s a hope of many that this will boost the holo sight market with a more extensive selection.

But, you may have seen many other sights marketed as holographic sights and with a very low price tags by other brands. These are not true holo sights and are red dot sights by definition if you look at the technology.

Additionally, be vendor-specific when buying a holographic sight as it is known fact that there are Chinese counterfeit products in circulation.

Battery Power of Holographic Sights

Holographic sights draw much more power to operate versus a red dot sight. Vortex provides a rechargeable battery option or a CR123 battery to operate the Razor AMG UH-1. EOTech models will require AA batteries or 123 lithium batteries.

Battery life will depend on usage, but holo sights in general are capable of providing 600-1000 hours of continuous use.

Holographic Sight Reticles

Reticles are a matter of preference. Most will incorporate a 1 MOA center dot as the aiming point and a circle surrounding it to rapidly draw the eye to the center. There are also reticle designs available with ballistic holdover dots, ranging scales, and various other options.

Size/Weight of the Holographic Sight

Holographic sights are small, if you’re comparing it to a rifle scope or even holo sights used in the military decades ago. However, when compared with red dots, they’re bulky in size and weight. They weigh around 11 oz with EOTech’s 9 oz XPS2 and XPS3 models weighing the lightest at 9 oz.

Because of the battery requirements and holo technology, they’re big compared to red dots. They’re typically around 3-4″ in height, 2-3″ in width, and 2-6″ in length – not compatible with pistols.

Field of View of the Holo Sight

Because of the HUD and rectangular window of the holo sight, they tend to offer a wider field of view than red dots. It makes it easier to use with both eyes open and head and cheek welds are easier to repeat and use. Red dots with smaller windows or even with the tube-style design may require you to get a little closer to focus and may be less forgiving with eye relief.

FAQ’s About Holographic Sights

Notes: EOTech VS US Government

There’s a lot of talk and consumer misconception about the lawsuit against EOTech and the product recall in effect by the manufacturer, so we’ll briefly address it here.

In 2015, EOTech lost a lawsuit against the US Government for civil fraud. There were two, major issues that were brought to light: thermal drift and moisture incursion.

EOTech announced in April 2016 that they remedied the moisture incursion that caused lenses to fog up and reduce reticle brightness intensity. However, the thermal drift issue remains yet to be remedied. The issue is, in extreme temperatures, your zero can be off as much as 12″ at 300 yards.

One such thought is that battery-operated optics are often subject to operating temperatures of the batteries. As much as manufacturers can try to counteract this with various construction materials, builds, and protective features, it’s still prone to faulty operation. There’s also the issue of what constitutes extreme shifts in temperatures.

For the average, recreational shooter, there is very little to no concern of thermal drift occurring. However, for extreme conditions that may be experienced in military operations, extreme Winter hunting, and such, this defect must be considered.

It also must be said that L-3 Communications (parent company of EOTech), “one of the largest defense companies in the US” is still under contract to provide clip-on optics and close-quarter sights. In fact, L3 announced in January 2019 that EOTech Optics won a $26.3 million contract by U.S. Special Operations Command.

While this is rewarding news to the company, it’s not new news. EOTech has been outfitting the military since 2001.

Not everyone is ready to throw out or disregard EOTech. What will you choose?

With a Holo Sight . . .

With a holo sight, you have a 1 MOA dot, the smallest, available dot in the industry.

With a holo sight, you have a rectangular HUD display with an increased field of view to get on target without compromising situational awareness.

With a holo sight and use of a magnifier, your 1 MOA dot will always be 1 MOA to promote accuracy at all distances you dare shoot.

All this amounts to fast target acquisition, speed, and dependability.

With a holo sight, it’s just better.

Further Reading

• Ozark Armament Rhino 4x Prism Sight Review (Range Tested)
• Ozark Armament Rhino Red Dot Sight Review (Range Tested)
• Burris Fastfire 3 VS Vortex Venom Comparison [HANDS-ON]
• Vortex Venom Red Dot Review (6 MOA) – HANDS ON!
• What is a Prism Scope? Prism VS Reflex VS LPVO!

Bushcraft skills are often thought of as survival skills. While they are certainly useful in a survival situation, they are most helpful in taking our time in the woods beyond survival and making it comfortable.

These abilities are often referred to as pioneer skills, as they were necessary for survival before the advent of electricity, gasoline engines, and indoor plumbing.

Due to modern conveniences, many people do not build a fire or boil drinking water daily as our ancestors did in the 19th century. Learning these skills is important not only for recreation but also for emergency preparedness and self-sustainability.

These bushcraft skills can be practiced in your backyard or at a simple campsite. As I mentioned in What is Bushcraft, most bushcrafters I know are outdoorsmen that just like to be outside and make things with their hands.

Keep reading to find out the bushcraft skills that are most important both for survival and making your time in the woods comfortable. I also have a tip on the best place to read more about these skills.

Keep an eye out for my link to a free first-aid training course and easy camp meals!

Bushcraft Camping Skills – Campsite Selection

While it’s not really an exciting skill to practice, selecting the wrong place to camp can make all of the other skills ineffective. Or it can make your situation even worse.

When choosing a place to camp, there are a few factors to keep in mind. Although it may seem overwhelming at first, with time, selecting a bushcraft campsite will become second nature.

• Length of Stay: How long do you plan to camp here? Shorter stays will require less resources than longer ones.
• Firewood: If you plan to have a fire, ensure it is legal. Can you cut down trees? Is there enough deadfall around camp to use instead?
• Weather: Which way does the wind usually blow? Ideally, the wind should be parallel to your shelter and fire so smoke doesn’t blow into your shelter.
• Elevation: Warm air rises, so low valleys tend to get cold. Ridgetops tend to be windy. The ideal location is halfway up a hill between a ridge and a valley, if possible.
• Water: Do you have a water source nearby? Are you close to a water source that could flood? Don’t forget that floods start upstream. Just because it is not raining where you are doesn’t mean the river or stream can’t flood from rain miles away.
• Overhead Hazards: Make sure for safety that there are no dead trees or branches overhead that could fall with the wind. Cliff sides or overhangs where rocks could fall into your campsite are also dangerous.
• Make sure you are allowed to camp in the area you have selected. Get permission from the landowner if it is private land, or make sure you don’t need a permit if you are on public land. Also, find out if you can have a fire, cut trees, hunt, fish, etc.

Bushcraft Knife Skills – Knifecraft

Using a bushcraft belt knife is one of the most important bushcraft skills to master. Without anything else, you have a chance to survive in the wilderness if you have a good belt knife.

Just like any other cutting tool, knowing how to use one safely is what you should focus on. Avoid the “triangle of death,” the area around your upper legs and groin where your femoral arteries are.

This is just as important with a smaller knife as you would find on a multitool or a Swiss Army knife. Keep the blade and direction of the cut away from the triangle.

Here are some bushcraft knife skills to focus on:

• Safe grips such as the knee lever and chest lever grip for carving
• Batoning wood to make kindling
• Cutting notches like a V notch, stake notch, bail notch, and cabin notch
• Shear cuts for making feather sticks or cutting small saplings.
• Shaving bark for fire tinder
• Cutting holes in sticks to craft items
• Cutting fine splits and end nocks
• Sharpening a knife – both field touchup and restoring a damaged edge

Always ensure you have a proper sheath for your belt knife, and keep it in the sheath when you are not using it.

Bushcraft Axe Skills – Axecraft

Axecraft is a bushcraft skill focused on effectively and safely using a bushcraft axe or hatchet. Besides the knife, the axe is an important tool for the bushcraft camper. Much of what we use at camp involves processing wood, and the axe can make quick work of a tree or log.

Some bushcraft axe skills are:

• Cutting down trees (felling) for firewood or shelter materials
• Limbing a tree
• Splitting wood for fuel
• Carving large pieces of wood to make tools
• Notching or bucking logs for shelter or other structures
• Using an axe as a hammer for tent stakes or spikes
• Using an axe with a baton to make shingles or planks
• Sharpening an axe
• Replacing an axe Handle

When working with an axe in the woods, safety is crucial. Felling a large tree with an axe is an extremely hazardous activity, as both the swinging axe and the falling tree pose a risk of injury. It’s important to understand the proper techniques for using an axe to minimize these risks.

While it is not practical to get into all the ways to safely use an axe here, always keep a sheath on your axe head when it is not in use. Mors Kochanski’s book Bushcraft is one of the best I have seen on how to use an axe. See our Best Bushcraft Books review for details on this book.

Bushcraft Saw Skills – Sawcraft

Knowing how to use a bushcraft folding saw, and a bow or buck saw is a bushcraft skill at the top of my list. While safer than an axe, attention to safety is still required.

I have seen most injuries occur from people trying to use a saw that is too large for the task. While big saws seem generally better, they may not be for you.

Here is some bushcraft saw skills to master:

• Felling trees – This is safer than using an axe, but you still have the falling tree to worry about.
• Limbing a tree
• Splitting wood – Yes, you read that right, see our best bushcraft saw article for a video
• Notching logs or sticks for structures or for crafting other utility items
• Processing deadfall for firewood
• Sharpening a saw blade
• Selecting the correct saw blade for the job

While a saw is much easier to use than an axe, there are still nuances that must be learned. For example, some saws are designed to cut in only one direction. If you don’t recognize this in your technique as you are cutting, it can lead to frustration and possibly a broken blade or injury.

Bushcraft Fire Starting Skills – Firecraft

Starting and maintaining a fire is essential for maintaining body heat in cold weather, purifying water, and signaling for help. Without it, your time in the woods will be short and uncomfortable.

While starting a fire may seem simple, there is a ton to learn.

Here are some bushcraft skills for starting a fire to focus on before you head into the woods. These skills will also help you better understand what tools you need. Look at our bushcraft fire starting kit review and guide to help you as you are starting out.

• Finding and identifying natural dry fire tinder
• Constructing a “birds nest” and twig bundle
• Using a Ferro rod
• Using flint and steel (or a hard rock and your bushcraft knife or saw)
• Building and using a bow drill
• Gathering and cutting kindling
• Making a feather stick
• Making char cloth
• Starting a fire with a magnifying lens
• Building a fire lay
• Choosing a safe fire site
• Maintaining a fire
• Properly extinguishing a fire

While this is not an extensive list, it is the basics that you should focus on. Start with how to gather and use tinder and kindling and light it with a trusty Bic lighter.

Starting a fire with a bow drill should be the last thing you do after you have mastered starting and maintaining a fire with the other methods.

I’ve found that many people face difficulties when it comes to choosing the right type of fuel to use for their fire. They may use sticks that are too large or lack enough dry material to sustain the fire, regardless of how they initially ignite it.

Keep local regulations in mind when starting a fire. Make sure there are no fire bans, and fires are allowed in your area. Starting a fire in a no-burn zone is a serious offense.

Bushcraft Shelter Building Skills – Sheltercraft

Building a bushcraft shelter in the woods is a huge topic (which is why we have a 4000-word article called “Bushcraft and Survival Shelters”).

There are many variables at play here. How long do you plan to camp? Is cutting trees or building a shelter even allowed where you are? How much time do you really want to spend building a shelter?

If you own the land, you can take your time and build a long-term bushcraft shelter. For me, this is a lot of fun for the family.

If you are camping where building your own shelter is not allowed, you can use a bushcraft tent or just a bushcraft tarp for a shelter.

Lay flat hammocks are also great, especially where it is hard to find flat ground. See my full Haven Tent Hammock Review to find out if a hammock is right for you and save 10% off with our discount code!

In a survival situation, a lightweight tarp, a survival blanket like the Arcturus heavy duty survival blanket, and a bivy bag are great to keep in your kit and can be deployed in minutes.

Simply put, you need something to sleep on, in, and under.

Here are some bushcraft shelter skills to focus on.

• Make your own oil-cloth for a canvas tent
• Pitching a tarp in various configurations for shelter
• Make and tie a ridgeline for a tarp shelter
• Make your own tent stakes
• Make your own ground pad or mattress for sleeping
• Build a lean-to shelter
• Build a debris hut shelter
• Build an A-Frame shelter
• Build a raised bed inside your shelter
• Construct a safe heat source inside your shelter
• Identify natural material for coverage and insulation
• Build a wall to reflect heat from a fire toward the shelter

You can study and practice building shelters for years. At the end of the day, the second priority of survival is maintaining your core body temperature. Even if you plan to build your own shelter, have a backup plan and basic items in your kit to get you out of the weather.

Water Sourcing and Purification Skills

Clean drinking water is essential for humans. While the survival rule of 3 gives a general guideline that we can only survive for 3 days without water, this could vary depending on the person and environment.

Water is needed not only for drinking but for cooking, cleaning, and personal hygiene during a long-term stay in the woods.

No matter if you are just planning a day hike or a weeklong bushcraft trip, you absolutely must have a plan to obtain clean drinking water.

Remember that most natural water is contaminated with bacteria or parasites that can make you sick. Even if you find a clear mountain stream, it is likely naturally contaminated and unsafe to drink.

Here are some skills to focus on to ensure water does not become an issue.

• Finding a water source in the woods
• Judging the safety of standing vs moving water
• Selecting the proper water container
• Selecting the proper bushcraft pot
• Building a pot hanger
• Prefiltering with a coarse filter to remove turbidity
• Boiling water to purify it
• Using a water filter (proper use and cleaning)
• Identifying water indicator trees from a distance
• Extracting water from birch trees
• Building a multilevel tripod water filter from natural materials

It is important to remember that you always need a metal container to purify water. It is ideal to have two: one to gather and purify water and the second to store clean drinking water. This also prevents cross-contamination.

The best method I have found is the combination of a Grayl Geopress water filter and the pathfinder nesting cup. With this setup, I can quickly purify water, and I have a second container for food that doesn’t take up any additional space.

Bushcraft Cordage Skills – Bindcraft

Bindcraft is an all-encompassing bushcraft skill that includes making cordage from natural materials, using manmade cordage like paracord, and tying knots.

Cordage can be used in nearly all of the skills we are discussing. From building a shelter to first aid, being able to tie and use the correct knots makes life much easier in the woods.

Here are some bushcraft skills to practice with cordage.

• Selecting the proper paracord and bank line
• Identifying natural materials to use for cordage
• Weaving and braiding natural cordage
• Tying basic knots (see below)
• Tying lashings (Cross, Shear, Square, Diagonal, Tripod, Round)
• Making bindings (for tying arrowheads, for example)
• Making fish nets
• Making cordage from rawhide
• How to make and use toggles

Here are some basic knots to learn and practice that are useful around camp.

• Lark’s Head
• Stop knot
• Marline Spike Hitch
• Prusik knot
• Jam knot
• Half Hitch
• Fisherman’s knot
• Reef Knot
• Bowline
• Trucker’s hitch
• Clove hitch
• Timber hitch
• Slip knot

Knots are fascinating to me. You would think that a knot is a knot, but things like a prusik knot are just amazing. Simply taking two pieces of cord and using it for pitching a tarp or climbing without untying it is so simple yet so useful.

I keep a piece of paracord and bank line beside my chair to practice tying knots. If I don’t practice, I find that I forget.

Bushcraft Forestry Skills

When you are in the woods, trees are one of the most abundant natural resources. Identifying each species and its uses will make your time in the woods much more comfortable.

I will admit being able to identify trees is one of my weaknesses. It mostly requires memorization, and comparing pictures in books to what exists in nature is not straightforward.

Learning the leaves is the easiest way to identify most trees. It just takes time and repetition to learn the trees in your area.

Here are some forestry bushcraft skills to focus on in the woods.

• Identifying trees based on their leaves and bark
• Which wood is the best for firewood
• Which wood is the best for building material
• Which trees have nutritional or medicinal uses
• How to identify “Fatwood”
• How to use pine sap as an adhesive
• Making containers from wood bark

Trees are a resource that we can use all year long. Bushcraft is essentially “living with nature.” Ultimately, we all look at trees a little differently if we understand just how important they are.

Bushcraft Foraging Skills

The wilderness is literally full of plants that have benefited humans for thousands of years.

But, with modern conveniences, we have forgotten so much. Being able to walk through the woods and understand what you can and can’t eat, what makes a good seasoning, and what can make your headache go away are all very rewarding bushcraft skills.

Here are some foraging bushcraft skills to learn:

• Identifying plants (learn the harmful ones first)
• Understanding which plants have poisonous lookalikes
• Harvesting wild edibles in your area
• Which plants have medicinal properties
• Identifying edible nuts
• Identifying edible fruits
• Where the most beneficial plants usually grow

Food usually isn’t an issue in a short-term survival situation. But, it is hard to live with just foraging for an extended period. This skill is one of the hardest and could be dangerous if you consume a poisonous plant.

I think of foraging as a supplement to the overall outdoor experience and a way to understand nature better.

Start with some wild onions or garlic as a seasoning. Or, just pick some blackberries. I have an area on my property full of them, and we enjoy them every summer.

Bushcraft Trapping Skills

Trapping is an ancient skill that is very rewarding when you need food in a survival situation. Since it is passive, it should be your primary method of harvesting food from nature. You can just set traps and check them a couple times of a day while completing other tasks.

For a typical bushcraft trip in the US, trapping is somewhat problematic to practice since there are wildlife seasons and regulations for trapping. Most states have specific trapping seasons, limit the animals you can trap, and limit what type of traps you can use.

Most of us interested in bushcraft have watched and studied the 10 items the contestants on Alone selected. Many chose snare lines, but many did not use them for snares. A few winners made it because they had an effective trap line set up with their snares.

Here are some trapping bushcraft skills to review:

• Locating and identifying game animals
• Identifying game trails
• Recognizing animal behavior
• Identifying game animal tracks and sign
• Understanding what game animals eat
• Identifying and harvesting the correct bait
• How to make and set a snare
• How to make and set a deadfall trap
• How to make and set a cage-type trap

While trapping can be difficult considering state regulations, it is worth trying if you have an area available. Keep your initial expectations low, and be patient. It is a primitive skill that takes time to master and could be very useful when you need it.

Bushcraft Hunting Skills

While trapping is a passive way to harvest game animals, hunting is an active way. While you can hunt any game animal, it has more benefits for the time you spend if you hunt big game animals.

Similar to trapping, rules, and regulations are depending on the state for when, where, and what type of weapon you can use.

Going on a hunting trip in a remote area where you can camp at night is an amazing experience. For many, hunting is the primary reason for the trip, and bushcraft takes a back seat.

Regardless, in a survival situation, having hunting experience is a huge advantage. I recommend that everyone at least try hunting just to have a connection with nature and a better understanding of what is involved.

Here are some bushcraft hunting skills to explore:

• Take a hunter education course
• Understand how firearms work
• Learn the different types of hunting firearms
• Learn the different types of hunting ammunition
• Learn how to shoot a rifle and a shotgun
• Understand the different types of bows
• Learn how to shoot a bow and arrow
• Reload a spent shotgun shell in the woods
• Learn how to scout for big game in your area
• Understand the behavior patterns of game animals
• Learn the different ways to hunt (still or stalk)
• Understand the effects that weather has on game animals

Over 25 Million people hunt in the US every year. It is one of the world’s oldest primitive activities that is still done today. Having the experience is certainly valuable when you really need it.

Bushcraft Fishing Skills

Fishing is interesting since there are so many ways to do it. I think that it can be one of the most exciting and one of the most frustrating ways to get food.

There are both active and passive ways to fish. All of them have their challenges. In some ways, active fishing is harder than hunting because you not only have to find fish, but you have to convince them to take your bait.

However, like hunting and trapping, there are rules and regulations that you must follow. Be sure to review them before trying any of these methods.

Some bushcraft fishing skills that you can learn are:

• Fishing with a standard rod and reel
• Fishing with a handline
• Setting a trot line
• Natural and Artificial bait selection
• Where fish tend to be at certain times of day/year
• How to make and use a dip net
• How to make and use a gill net
• How to make and use a Seine net
• How to make a fish trap (funnel and tube style)

Almost twice as many people fish than hunt in the US every year. Since fishing is a year around sport in most areas, it is much easier to practice modern and primitive methods.

Bushcraft Cooking Skills

Cooking at camp is essential for purifying water and cooking food. In many cases, depending on where and when you are camping, you may be unable to trap, hunt, fish, or even forage for food. In these cases, you will have to pack in your own food.

Due to the weight and no refrigeration, this can become a challenge as well.

Not only is cooking at camp an essential bushcraft skill, but preserving food is also. If you harvest a big game animal, what do you do with all the meat?

Here are some bushcraft cooking skills to think about and focus on:

• Understand foods that can be packed that have high nutritional value and do not need refrigeration
• Research pre-packaged camp food or dehydrated meals
• Understand simple camp foods that do not spoil quickly
• Review substitutes for common ingredients that can be packed
• Selecting the proper tools for cooking at camp
• Preserving foraged food and game
• Cleaning and butchering game animals
• Cleaning and cooking fish
• How to bake with a Dutch oven on a campfire
• Crafting utensils from wood
• Building a pot crane, tripod, and rotisserie over a fire
• How to dry and smoke meat
• Building a rocket stove
• Building a can stove

There are many survival recipes online for both bringing stable food with you and for cooking once you are at camp. Trail mixes and prepackaged foods are the easiest and what I normally use.

For a very easy option, Nutrient Survival has freeze-dried meals that only require hot water to be added. Their Grab and Go packs include a full day of meals and even include my morning coffee and some snacks and dessert. They are a great way to “smooth it.”

I enjoy cooking and experimenting with different ingredients. Beef jerky, seasoned rice, and a drizzle of olive oil make for a simple yet tasty addition to any camping meal.

Bushcraft First Aid Skills

Inevitably an injury will happen to you or someone you are with. When you are out in the woods, it is important not to panic and know how to react since you are likely hours from help.

The most common injury in the wilderness that you will see are breaks, strains, and sprains. While these usually are not life-threatening, they cause mobility issues which make the other bushcraft skills harder to do.

Another common occurrence in the winter is falling into cold water. If you have your bases covered with shelter and fire, as we discussed above, you should have the resources with you to make a quick shelter and get a fire going in a few minutes.

If this seems crazy, put some gear together and start practicing. Once someone’s body temperature starts dropping, you don’t have long to recover.

In the summer, heat stroke from excessive exertion is also common. Knowing how to identify and rectify it is just as important as treating hypothermia. While being cold is obvious, heat stroke can sneak up on you.

Here are some bushcraft first-aid skills to study:

• Build/purchase an IFAK and know how to use each item
• Learn CPR
• Mobilizing a limb with tree limbs and cordage
• Understand how to Stop bleeding
• How to use a tourniquet
• How to apply bandages and dressings
• How to treat gunshot wounds, knife wounds, and axe wounds
• How to treat foot rot/trench foot
• How to treat burns
• Identify and treat shock
• Learn the Heimlich maneuver, both on someone else and yourself
• Identifying stroke and heart attacks
• How to treat digestion issues
• How to treat insect or animal bites
• Learn medicinal plants in your area
• How to make a decoction and a salve from plants

First aid skills are great to learn not only for bushcraft but for emergency preparedness in general. Before you focus on any other skills, focus on this one.

Mountain man medical has great purpose built med kits and a video training course that is free.

My Medic also has some great first aid kits specialized for different situations. I like to keep the Sidekick Pro kit attached to my pack when I am out in the woods.

For more details on the kits that MyMedic offers, see our Full MyMedic Review guide. You can also save 15% by using code “SURVIVALSTOIC15” at checkout!

Bushcraft Navigation Skills

Navigating your way through the wilderness is a basic bushcraft skill that you should practice before heading deep into a remote area.

The first rule to always follow before heading out is to let someone know where you are going and when you will be back. If they don’t hear from you when you are supposed to return, they should call for help.

People naturally walk in big circles when they do not have a bearing to focus on (called lateral drift). This is why you always hear people say if you are lost, stay where you are.

It is common when hunting in a remote area to travel a few miles from camp. It is easy to get disoriented at different times of the day.

With basic navigation skills, you won’t have to wait until someone finds you.

Some wilderness navigation skills to learn are:

• How to use a compass
• How to use a topographical map
• How to keep a pace count
• How to use the terrain to navigate
• How to identify north from the vegetation
• Finding your location on a map
• How to navigate around an obstacle
• How to mark a trail
• Using the sun to navigate
• Using the moon to navigate
• Using a stick and a star to navigate at night

Using a compass and map requires practice. It is not something you can just read about and pick up. Take a look at our full guide on the best survival compass. Get a good topo map of your area and start small. If you spend a lot of time outdoors, this one skill could save your life.

How to Learn More about Bushcraft Skills

To learn more about all of these bushcraft skills, review our guide of the best bushcraft books. Buy a few of them, study, and focus on one skill and practice it.

Make sure you follow a logical progression. For example, it makes no sense to start a fire with a bow drill if you can’t keep one going.

Go on a camping trip first at a regular campground and just practice cooking, for example. Try out your water filter from water at the lake on a fishing trip. Take one step at a time and be patient. Before long, most of these bushcraft skills will be second nature.

Final Bushcraft Skills Thoughts

The main reason people bushcraft is because they like to be outside. In a survival situation when you don’t have modern conveniences, knowing these skills and tools and having the correct bushcraft gear are life savers.

With some experience, you can thrive living outdoors like our ancestors did. Just think of all the pioneers that headed out west in the 1800s. They all had to survive in the wilderness with just what they had. While it may seem crazy today, humans have survived for thousands of years.

Like “Nessmuk” said in his classic Woodcraft book, “We do not go to the green woods and crystal waters to rough it, we go to smooth it. We get it rough enough at home.”

This article sums up the bushcraft guides and gear reviews that we have created. Take a look at our emergency preparedness and self defense sections as well!

A detailed review and performance comparison of Sage Salt R8, Scott Sector, G.Loomis Asquith and NRX+ fly rods

Saltwater fly rod review model-by-model comparison

This much-anticipated and perhaps overdue head-to-head review was spurred by the introduction of the Sage Salt R8. We compare saltwater rods every day in conversations with customers, but with the Salt R8 introduction, we felt the time was right to put these four series under the microscope. Each represents the leading edge of unique rod design legacies and all will be among the very best available to global saltwater anglers for many years to come.

As of this writing, these are the rods that drive the debate. We recommend and sell plenty of Winston Air Salt and Sage Igniters, as well as the underrated Winston Alpha+, but all of those are fundamentally unique and less often compared directly with the Salt R8, Sector, Asquith and NRX+. Every Igniter is stiffer, or “faster,” than any rod in this review. Every Winston, whether an Air Salt or Alpha+, is less stiff, or “slower” than any of these rods. One and all fine fly rods, they represent the extremes of preference and purpose and are thus excluded from this comparison.

Our goal in this article is to differentiate similar models to help anglers choose the rod best aligned with their fishing preferences and casting style. We cast each rod group side-by-side with two fly lines to distinguish the nuances of casting range, feel, line speed, accuracy, power and presentation. Occasionally we landed on a universal favorite, a rod we all preferred regardless of line choice. More broadly, however, the range of our observations and preferences likely reflects the diversity of our customers. All of these rods will catch fish, but each has distinct character, so choose a rod that quickens your heartrate when you reach for it!

Alternative configurations: Scott Sector 8’4″ and 2-piece models are fantastic fly rods. If your rod will live on a boat, strongly consider one of the 8’10” 2-piece Sectors. The convenience of a 2-piece rod is undeniable for the local angler. Scott’s 8’4″ Sectors fly way under the radar, too, and while not described in this article, we implore anglers to consider one on merit of lightness, casting ease and accuracy. Unfairly categorized as “boat rods,” we find the 8’4″ Sectors to be lethal fishing tools and a pleasure to cast whether on foot or afloat. Some misconceive that a shorter rod is somehow weaker. They are actually stronger fish fighters because the lever between hand and fish is shorter.

At the end of the day, most anglers prefer a 9′ 4-piece saltwater fly rod. In our opinion, the Asquith, Salt R8, Sector and NRX+ are the most compelling choices. So, let’s get on with it. Which one will make your heart race?

This article was written by John Duncan with input on every rod model from Fly Shop Manager Parker Thompson and Richard Post, our Buyer and all-around fly fishing assassin.

Sage Salt R8

Introduced in January 2024, the Salt R8 brought Sage’s saltwater fly rods back to the everyday angler. They are a joy to fish: light, explosive, intuitive and accurate. Components are second to none. The grips are smallest in class, a gracefully contoured full Wells that lacks nothing for purchase or leverage but seems to fit the hand of every angler just a little better. The Salt R8 are legacy defining rods, taking us back to the day when Sage was the first and last word in saltwater fly rod design.

Defining characteristics: lightness, easy power, high line speed and great loops with popular saltwater lines

G.Loomis Asquith

Years after its introduction (2016), the Loomis Asquith continues to astound anglers who have never cast one. While no rod will be considered “perfect,” rod designer Steve Rajeff clearly achieved or surpassed his ideals with the basic action of these fly rods. Some consider the grips to be chunky and unrefined; others find the components underwhelming, but none argue that Asquith rod blanks stand alone in flex and recovery characteristics, using more of the rod with greater resilience to generate the highest line speed of any fly rod.

Defining characteristics: elite power, lively feel throughout the blank, line speed at all distances, ability to fish any fly line

Scott Sector

Apart from the G Series, there is no fly rod that exemplifies the Scott design ethos more than the Sector. It is obvious to those within the industry that Rod Designer Jim Bartschi moves slowly and purposefully. He is one of those guys who doesn’t speak often, but when he does, everyone listens. When introducing a new fly rod, his goal is for it to stand at the top for a decade, or possibly longer. The Sector, introduced in 2019, is a marvel of design and performance. Some say it has “ideal saltwater action.” An incredibly broad range of anglers love these rods. Countless Telluride Angler customers have purchased multiple rods in the series after fishing their first. As casters and rod reviewers, we notice that Sectors cast the most popular fly lines better than other rods, including flats classics such as the SA and Rio Bonefish tapers.

Defining characteristics: perfectly tuned to their line weights, progressive action, sensational range

G.Loomis NRX+

Descendant of the rods that made G.Loomis famous (GLX, NRX), NRX+ saltwater rods are trusted worldwide for their dependable performance, familiarity to the angler and indisputable power. Like lounging in a favorite armchair, many anglers get comfortable with an NRX+ and never want to leave. They are not the lightest rods in class, nor constructed with jewel box components, but the NRX+ are built to last and built to cast, as we rediscovered in several highly competitive line weights. (Intro 2019)

Defining characteristics: power and stability in challenging conditions, familiarity, durability

Model-by-Model Comparisons

Salt R8 690-4 v. Sector 906-4

A subtle difference in action delineates these fine fly rods. The Sector is a tad stiffer in the butt and mid-section, resulting in a more “classic saltwater action,” in the words of Richard Post. It has more “gas,” and possesses a higher gear. You can lean on this rod, haul it aggressively, fish it with a variety of lines including specialized trout streamer and bass lines, which tend to fold lesser fly rods. The Salt R8 feels a little more “finessey,” in Parker’s appraisal, more oriented toward small flies and probably a better crossover rod for trout, except in the heavy streamer category. Both rods handle a Rio Elite Bonefish and Rio Flats Pro, but the Sector with a Rio Bonefish throws the tightest loops for presenting size #6 and #8 flies on the flats. Both offer plenty of feedback, but the Sage Salt R8 has more “touch,” a possible benefit in the trout arena.

Asquith 790-4 v. Sector 907-4 v. Salt R8 790-4 v. NRX+ 790-4

Only the 12-weight category possesses rods more diverse in character. The Asquith 790-4 defines its series. Light and springy beyond compare, this superhero fly rod would be the preference of any angler, except the grip is the same as on the tarpon rods in the series. It’s thick. If you don’t mind a hefty grip, this rod is among the most spectacular saltwater fly rods you will ever fish. Otherwise, keep reading. The Sage Salt R8 has the lightest, most airy feel of the group. You can’t stomp on the butt section like the Asquith, NRX+ or Sector, so choose this rod for smaller flies and classic flats applications. This would be the ultimate Christmas Island or Belize bonefish rod, but lacks the bottom end of the others. The Sector 907-4 is the opposite. As Rich describes, “it wants you to cast off the butt.” The Sector 907-4 is ideal for someone with a relaxed casting stroke, or for fresh/salt crossover with large flies. It is probably the best bass bug rod under comparison, for example, while still a lovely rod for bones or redfish. If you fish a heavy-headed redfish line, the Sector 907-4 is your rod. The NRX+ falls into the “workmanlike” category, “old school,” according to Parker Thompson, “stiff from tip to butt.” “You have to stay on it,” according to Rich. We all agreed that the NRX+ 790-4 needs the head weight of a Flats Pro line to bring it to life, which is telling. It tolerates a strong double haul and outright needs one with an SA or Rio Bonefish taper. This rod is a popular choice among freshwater anglers who use super aggressive streamer lines for transporting articulated streamers, Zonkers, pike and bass flies.

Sector 908-4 v. Salt R8 890-4 v. Asquith 890-4 v. NRX+ 890-4

This contentious group of fly rods could start a barfight, probably has. It earned our recognition for “muddiest category,” a cohort of 8-weights that proudly demonstrates the state of the art. If you own an 8-weight and it’s not one of these, you’re missing something.

The Asquith offers the greatest possible line speed without bumping to the next line weight. It toes the line, however, because with a standard bonefish taper, the ASQ 890-4 requires a strong double haul for greatest distance and pretty loops. It responds to power better than any comparable rod, but also requires precision input from the caster. We cast it with a Rio Bonefish Taper and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which brought it to life in the hands of every caster, including Duncan, who sometimes appears asleep at the wheel. By comparison, the Sector is more finely tuned to its line weight and purpose. The Asquith has more top end potential, but nothing casts a Rio Elite Bonefish as intuitively as the Sector 908-4. If Rio were to describe the way this line is intended to present a fly, the preferred rod would be the Sector. Ranginess and loop control are unequalled with the Sector, a remarkable fly rod that seems born for bonefish. The Sector doesn’t like the Rio Flats Pro, so it may not perform as well as the Asquith with a Rio Outbound or other shooting-style line, but for true-to-line-weight fly lines, it’s a truly refined rod.

So here comes the Salt R8 890-4, one of our favorite rods in that series. It feels stiffer than the Sector but less than the Asquith. Whereas the Sector and Asquith both flex progressively (evenly, based on the amount of line in the air), the Salt R8 has a distinct sweet spot high on the blank. It’s a prototypical “tip casting rod,” but unlike its genetic forerunners, it’s an easy rod to cast. With a Rio or SA Bonefish Taper, a moderate double haul produces explosive line speed and the tightest loops you can imagine. In the end, it casts and fishes much like the Sector, just 5% stiffer. It feels even lighter than the Sector, but the caster needs to be a little more “on it,” as Rich would say. The Sector is better short and extra-long, but the Salt R8 is magic in the fishy 40’-60’ zone.

We cast the NRX+ 890-4 last in this group and it made us go back to the beginning and re-cast the other three rods. This is the best rod in the NRX+ series. While not as light and playful as the others, it is perhaps the most stable and “automatic” of them all. I had mis-pegged this rod as one that required overlining, or overpowering in the cast. Not so. It’s stiff enough to be better with a Flats Pro than with a regular Rio or SA Bonefish taper (the Rio Flats Pro is extra-heavy in the head), but casts all of these with some of the nicest loops you’ll ever see come out of a fly rod and with the greatest stability and accuracy of any rod under comparison. It’s not light or sweet in the tip, but the casting capabilities of this rod are undeniable. It is the best “large fly” rod in the group, too, so pike/musky/striper anglers take note. This is the night train.

Sector 909-4 v. Asquith 990-4 v. Salt R8 990-4 v. NRX+ 990-4

Since 9-weights are the new 10-weights for permit, we cast the rods in this category with a Rio Elite Permit and Rio Flats Pro, both of which require a rod with torsional stability and plus power to deliver a wind-resistant fly. Since we didn’t compare these rods with a Rio or SA Bonefish line, we feel compelled to observe that the Scott Sector 909-4, paired with a Bonefish taper, is perhaps the single finest 9-weight saltwater fly rod we’ve ever cast, without variance in our opinions.

9-weights are such versatile rods, the preferred line weight for countless species and one that crosses over from bones and reds to permit, stripers, roosterfish, baby tarpon and golden dorado. The Sector 909-4 throws a Rio Elite Permit as well as any fly rod. It picks up a very long line for easy second shots, critical in permit fishing. True to the series, this progressive action rod lacks the raw butt section strength of the Asquith or Sage Igniter, so there could be better rods for casting heavy shooting heads over the surf from steep beaches, but for flats applications, it’s the rod to beat. The Loomis Asquith is the stiffest rod in class, fishing like a 9 ½ weight, but offers the greatest line speed with adequate input from the caster. It also handles the heaviest specialty lines, such as the Rio Outbound, better than any of the others. The Rio Elite Permit underlines the rods slightly, but a firm haul loads and delivers spectacular loops and line speed. Choose the Sector for a combination of bonefish and permit. Choose the Asquith for permit and striped bass, if you fish bass from the beach.

The Salt R8 is built for comfort rather than speed. Ideal for all day casting, we recommend this rod with heavy lines, including the Rio Flats Pro, for repetition casting. It’s an excellent boat striper rod, for example, and also an excellent jungle rod, where you might cast all day for a golden dorado or two.

The NRX+ 990-4 casts like a Cadillac in overdrive. It is the heaviest rod in hand, but impressive at distance and in complete control with any fly line. Loop shape is outstanding with a Rio Permit line, but it has plenty of bottom end for the Rio Flats Pro, Outbound Short or SA Titan Taper lines.

Asquith 1090-4 v. NRX+ 1090-4 v. Salt R8 1090-4 v. Sector 9010-4

Parker sums it up well by observing that both Loomis rods have a “big game feel,” fishing at the top of their line class, leaning into tarpon territory. They have very stiff butt sections that feel like they were designed independently from the rest of the rod for the exclusive purpose of fighting heavy fish. This creates a slight feel of disconnection between the hand and fly line, but the power of these two rods is undeniable.

We cast all four rods with a Rio Elite Permit line and a Flats Pro. The Asquith was the best rod with the Flats Pro, but we noticed that line speed and presentation were better on all rods with the Elite Permit taper. The Asquith is the best rod for 2nd shots as the lower rod’s stiffness rips line off the water with authority, but this rod loses its trademark “springy” feel beyond 70’ on the cast. It is outstanding for aggressive beach fishing for heavy striper and roosterfish applications, where the caster is inherently overpowering the rod and needs to hold the line extra high to clear the surf. The NRX+ has a stiff butt, soft mid-section and stiff tip. It feels “hinged,” always wanting to cast from the middle of the rod, automatic in the 40-60’ range but not as light or playful as the Sage or Scott. Both Loomis rods emphasize power over presentation.

The Scott and Sage are both better permit fishing rods, and better all-day casters for false albacore, striped bass, etc. The Sector is the easiest casting but least powerful rod in the group. Being a 10-weight, it has plenty of power for permit and will be an excellent choice for less experienced casters and those who simply don’t possess a powerful casting stroke. The Salt R8 requires more input from the caster, but generates higher line speed and handles both the Permit taper and Flats Pro line with authority, whereas the Flats Pro is too heavy on the Sector. The Salt R8 feels lightest of the group and casts tight loops in the greatest range. It’s a powerful, nimble rod that best embodies the 10-weight saltwater class.

Sector 9011-4 v. Asquith 1190-4 v. Salt R8 1190-4 v. NRX+ 1190-4

The Sector is outstanding with both the Rio Flats Pro and Rio Elite Tarpon line, loading just the right amount on each swing for shots at any distance. It has the greatest range of any rod in this group, from shortest to longest. Butt section power is spectacular without making the rod heavy or clunky. This is a marvel of progressive-fast rod design. The Asquith 11-wt fishes like an 11 ½-wt. It is probably the best fish-fighter in the group, the best 11-weight for Boca Grande and other places where 100lbs+ tarpon are common. It has the most butt section resilience for second shots, but the rod feels underlined when starting a cast fly-in-hand. For many anglers, it would take a few extra swings to generate line speed. This is a great rod for guys who hammer their cast. The NRX+ is actually springier than the Asquith, especially with the heavy-headed Rio Flats Pro. It is one of the most progressive rods in the NRX+ series, reminiscent of the 8-weight, casting well in a really wide range, but it’s also the heaviest rod in this group. The Salt R8 requires a long, strong stroke. It’s bouncy on short casts, but accuracy and line speed come when you dig into the butt section. You can’t tip-cast this rod, nor stab it into the wind, but it casts a variety of lines quite well at distance. Of all the rods in this series, the Salt R8 1190-4 will draw the most mixed reviews. Cast it before you buy it.

Sector 9012-4 v. Asquith 1290-4 v. Salt R8 1290-4 FG v. NRX+ 1290-4

The Sector 9012-4 is unique from the other 12-weights. In our hands, it’s underpowered for this line class, easy to load but hard to cast with power and command. The butt section is certainly stiff enough to fight large tarpon, but the angler should choose this rod only if seeking the slowest action tarpon rod available. Consider fishing it with an 11-weight line.

The Asquith, on the other hand, provides the most casting and fish fighting power while somehow also being the lightest rod in class. The only caveat is that the caster needs to throw with power and confidence. That’s the inherent nature of 12-weight fishing, of course, but the Asquith 1290-4 is a rod that asks for power and delivers power. It is, quite simply, a mind-blowing fly rod. The NRX+ isn’t far behind, surprisingly springy and intuitive with a heavy-headed line, like the Flats Pro. It’s notably heavier than the Asquith or Salt R8, but throws well at distance.

The Salt R8 1290-4 is a surprising favorite in this group. While not quite as powerful as the Loomis rods, it provides an excellent balance of castability and command. Light for a 12-weight, it has greater stability than the Sector #12 or the Salt R8 1190-4. We were surprised at how well it handled both the Rio Elite Tarpon and Rio Flats Pro, the latter of which felt heavy and clunky on many rods that we cast on this day. Range and feel are excellent and the rod has enough stiffness in the butt to pick up line for second shots, always critical in tarpon fishing.

[Fly Rods Page] [Scott Sector Page] [Sage Salt R8 Page] [G.Loomis Asquith Page] [G.Loomis NRX+ Page]

Wondering what to do with venison fat? Here’s a fun project you can make that will yield an all-purpose cooking fat.

There’s a huge misconception about venison/deer fat and it’s use in cooking. Basically, people think it tastes like chapstick, it’s gamey and horrible, too rich, or some other common unfortunate misunderstanding.

If you’re here, you’re probably bambi fat-curious, so know this: deer fat is good tasting, good for you, and yes, you can absolutely render it for cooking.

Can you cook with venison fat? Is it even good?

Ok, I should rephrase that a tiny bit. Venison fat can be very good, just like bear fat can be very good. I’m not a venison specialist, but I am a bit of a specialist on lamb and goat, and they’re very similar. Basically, the fat of animals will all taste a little different, but the biggest thing I that find that gives a strong flavor to fat, especially in wild animals like deer and bears, is their diet.

If bears are eating fish, I’d assume their fat (and the meat) would be very strong tasting, the same could be said from the meat of a racoon if it’s been living off crayfish compared to chickens.

My grandmother still recounts how awful the white tail deer in Montana my Grandpa would shoot were, because of how it smelled—like wild sage. Venison eating aromatic herbs, and shrubby, tough aromatic plants will naturally have a strong flavor.

Over here in Minnesota and Wisconsin, where most of the deer get a bit of corn in their diet, the deer will taste very mild. For contrast too, I once ordered farmed venison obviously fed a bland corn diet (at a price of 50$/lb) and had to quickly send it back to the supplier since it didn’t even taste like, well, anything, and the meat was bland and pale.

I’ve had the same thing happen with bison. As far as flavor’s concerned, just because it’s a “wild animal” or was once wild, doesn’t necessarily matter as much as the management practices do.

The high melting point

Flavor aside, probably what most people don’t care for with venison fat is that is has a high melting point, which is a nice way of saying rendered venison fat/tallow will be rock solid cold, and will firm up on a plate and in your mouth if your dish cools off. Some people liken it to chapstick.

All of this is true, but, it’s also true with lamb, goat, beef, and buffalo. All of these ruminants have fat with a similar melting point, and all of them can be good in the right place. Remember, McDonalds French fries were cooked solely in beef fat for many years, for a reason: it tastes great.

Blend fats to get the texture you want

Here’s the secret. Just because deer, beef, and lamb fat is rock hard and pasty doesn’t mean that it has to be, per se. There’s ways around it, and I like to cheat a bit. Basically, I modify fats depending on the texture I want. For example, one year for a special dinner I wanted to make deviled eggs inspired by some I had at Dominique Crenn’s Bar Crenn that were flavored with crab.

Crab oil is really easy to make, but if I mix some into deviled egg filling, it’s going to get too loose. So, I cooked crab shells in half butter and half oil, then pureed the hybrid fat into the deviled egg mix and, voila, after it chilled, I had custardy, stiff, crab-flavored deviled eggs. I do the same thing here with the deer fat.

Venison Fat “Shmaltz”

I call this venison or deer fat shmaltz because shmaltz is kind of what it is. Depending on who you ask, shmaltz will typically be used to refer to poultry fat, typically in Jewish cuisine, although it’s been adopted into the modern culinary lexicon a bit.

Some versions of shmaltz incorporate flavorings like onions, garlic and herbs into the rendering process, and that’s exactly what I do here with the venison, which helps give it some deep, rounded flavor.

The other secret is cutting the venison fat with cooking oil—whatever kind you have that isn’t cold pressed, avocado oil, grapeseed, and other oils will be fine, just don’t use extra virgin.

The finished rendered venison fat-hybrid is still going to get firm when it’s cold, but you wont have to chip it like a block of stone, and, what’s even better is that it tastes great, and you can use it for everything from sautéing vegetables to some of the most crispity, crunchity roasted potatoes you’ll eat. Try it next time you have some deer fat and don’t feel like using it to polish your boots.

It’s a nightmare scenario but one that becomes a reality several times a year. You are in the wilderness and come face to face with one of the scariest animals that anyone could ever encounter. If a grizzly comes after you, then knowing if you can protect yourself is a legitimate concern.

.308s are powerful enough for grizzly bears in a technical sense. They offer the right mix of stopping power and low recoil, making it a viable option when you come face-to-face with this animal. However, grizzlies are very tough and might require multiple shots from a .308.

This article will cover a few related topics, such as what the .308 is, how powerful it is, and why it’s a suitable choice for grizzly bear hunting.

How Can You Take Down a Grizzly With a .308 Cartridge?

To take down a grizzly with a .308 cartridge, you’ll need to hit it in the right spot. The .308 is powerful enough to penetrate a bear’s skull. However, if you fail to do enough damage on the first shot, you’ll likely need to have one, if not several, additional rounds ready.

A grizzly bear can weigh anywhere from 675 to 1,700 pounds (306.18 to 771.11 kg), and they can reach speeds of up to 35 miles (56.33 km) per hour. That’s why it’s so important to have a powerful cartridge if you plan to hunt them.

People have used a .308 to take down bears in just a few shots, but it depends on the situation. If you’re in the backcountry, you might consider using a larger cartridge. But if you encounter a bear in close quarters, the .308 might work better.

The idea is to have a rifle that you can shoot relatively fast. For example, you don’t want to be fumbling around with a cumbersome bolt-action rifle when a grizzly is bearing down on you. You want to be able to shoot as quickly as possible.

How Important Is Accuracy When Shooting at Grizzlies?

Accuracy is extremely important when shooting at grizzlies. The more time you have to set up a shot, the better off you’ll be. You need to be able to hit the bear in a vital spot. Otherwise, you might just injure the animal and make it even more dangerous.

It’s possible to kill a grizzly bear with guns that are less powerful than a .308 as long as you properly place your shot.

That said, sudden grizzly encounters may not leave you with enough time to be precise with your shooting, which is why it’s important to be prepared to take multiple shots.

A slightly wounded grizzly isn’t something you want to deal with. They’re powerful animals that’ll viciously fight back.

Related What is the Best One Gun? (If You Could Only Have One).

Have People Taken Down Grizzlies with a .308 Before?

Despite what you might have seen in the movies, the .308 Winchester round can take down a grizzly bear. In fact, it’s even been used by hunters in Alaska to take down this big, brown bear for years.

People have taken down grizzlies with a .308 before. However, a grizzly bear’s reaction to being shot isn’t always predictable. It’s important not to assume that a single good shot will be the end of the encounter.

If you think you might encounter some grizzlies, the .308 should be more than powerful enough for the job. Just make sure that you’re using a high-quality rifle and ammunition and are taking care to be proficient in your marksmanship. With those things in place, the .308 will do its job.

.308 vs. 30-06 for Grizzly Bears

30-06 cartridges are more powerful than a .308 cartridge. The 30-06 can take down larger animals at longer distances. However, it also has more recoil and is less accurate than the .308.

The .308 is a reliable rifle for the inexperienced hunter as it’s easier to control. This is especially true if you’re hunting at close quarters. The 30-06 might be better for an experienced hunter operating in the backcountry.

While the 30-06 is more powerful and more likely to take down a large grizzly bear, the .308 is still a viable option with quality ammunition.

How Likely Are Aggressive Bear Encounters?

Not every bear encounter requires the use of a weapon, but it’s always good to have one in case you need it.

Aggressive bear encounters are more likely in the backcountry than they are in developed areas. However, bears might get aggressive whenever they feel threatened, regardless of location.

That said, aggressive bear encounters or full-on bear attacks are relatively rare. While a .308 rifle might protect you against an aggressive bear, there’s no guarantee that you will need to use it. In fact, using your rifle with a non-aggressive bear might make the situation worse.

The National Park Service provides a number of ways to handle a bear encounter before resorting to the use of a weapon.

How To Survive a Grizzly Attack?

To survive a grizzly attack, you need to identify bear territory, the type of bear you’re looking at, and have a solid survival strategy. A .308 rifle can be of great help, but some bear spray can also do the trick.

Naturally, grizzlies won’t attack unless they feel threatened. And this usually happens in the backcountry without you knowing. The only time you’re likely to see a grizzly is when it’s too close, and that’s why most people have great success with the .308.

During a sneak attack, your first line of defense should be bear spray. Hopefully, this will stop the bear in its tracks, giving you the chance to shoot your shot.

But if the grizzly does manage to get on top of you, your best bet is to play dead. Curl up in a ball and protect your vital organs. And whatever you do, don’t fight back.

Fighting back will only agitate the bear and make the situation more dangerous. Play dead and wait for the bear to lose interest and wander away. Then, you can make your escape.

Bear attacks are rare, but they can happen. So it’s wise to be prepared for all eventualities.

Conclusion

For many people, the .308 won’t be the first choice against a grizzly bear. However, if this is the only weapon you have on hand, you’re much better off with it than you are without it. The .308 is fully capable of taking down a grizzly bear, especially if you place your shot well.

However, if you do find yourself in a battle with a bear, remember to play dead, protect your vitals, and wait for the bear to lose interest. This might seem cowardly, but it can save your life.

For more, check out Best All-Around Camouflage Pattern Across Multiple Biomes.