So you’re feeling like you’ve done it all and are now looking for a real hunting challenge? Maybe the North American Wild Sheep Grand Slam is the next big hunting goal for you. This is the kind of hunting challenge that will not only test all your skills, but will give some major bragging rights with your buddies.

Here’s all that sheep hunters need to know about the Grand Slam of North American Wild Sheep. These animals are not only challenging to hunt, but getting a license to hunt them is just as difficult.

That makes this grand slam one of the hardest fair chase challenges to accomplish in hunting.

Qualifications

There are six species of wild bighorn sheep that actually qualify for the grand slam, but you only need to harvest four of them. These potential species you can harvest include a Dall sheep, a stone or Fannin sheep, a rocky mountain or California bighorn and a desert bighorn. While a few of these animals can be found in the Lower 48, for the most part it’s going to be some hard hunting in some really remote places like Alaska and parts of Canada.

1. Dall Sheep

The beautiful Dall sheep is going to be one of the harder ones on the list to bag. Your only option to hunt this species in the United States is going to be Alaska. And if you want to get a license, you have to draw a tag. Outside of the U.S., Dall sheep can be found in the northwest corner of British Columbia, Northwest Territories and the Yukon Territory.

No matter where you choose to hunt, you’ll likely be hiring an outfitter to work with. These hunts aren’t cheap. A quick check of the web reveals you can might have to pay up $20,000 for a remote guided Dall sheep hunt.

2. Stone Sheep

The stone sheep is actually a subspecies of the Dall sheep. As you might already guess, this means it inhabits some of the same extremely remote parts of North America including Alaska and Canada. Your best bet for a stone sheep is likely going to be British Columbia, but the Yukon and Northwest Territories offer opportunities for this sheep, too.

Just like the dall’s sheep, booking a guided hunt for stone sheep isn’t cheap. The good news is, if you’re simply looking to complete the grand slam, you can substitute the fannin sheep in its place because people sometimes use the terms for these two species interchangeably. It is worth noting there are two distinct species however. The stone sheep goes by the scientific name ovis dalli stonei while the fannin goes by ovis dalli fannini.

3. Fannin Sheep

As noted above, Fannin sheep are very similar to the stone sheep. They are so similar that some don’t even recognize the difference between the two distinct species, including Boone & Crockett Club! Just like the stone and Dall sheep, you’re going to primarily find hunting for them through an outfitter out of British Columbia or the Yukon and Northwest Territories.

While Fannin sheep do appear in Alaska, the numbers are low. The Fannin sheep, for the most part, is much lighter in color than the stone sheep. For purposes of the grand slam club, they have a special definition in areas where Dall sheep are also found. Keep in mind, a black tail on a ram indicates a Dall sheep as far as the GSCO is concerned.

“If a ram has only a small amount of black hair within the body and/or down the legs, the trophy owner can choose to call it either Fannin or Dall,” the GSCO website states.

If you’re just looking to avoid the confusion, it might be easier to stick with going after a stone sheep unless you are specifically targeting some larger slam in the future.

4. Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep

Finally, we get to a sheep with more widespread hunting options available. While the first three species are restricted to remote areas of Canada and Alaska, this sheep can be found in the lower 48 states of the U.S. But with more places to hunt comes another downside, you’re still looking at a drawing for a chance at a bighorn sheep.

Competition for a chance at a bighorn can be fierce. A few years ago, a hunter paid $305,000 for a guaranteed bighorn sheep license through an auction by the Montana Fish, Wildlife and Parks department. There are similar auctions/raffles and ways to increase your odds in other states.

Washington, for example, offers the chance to increase your odds by purchasing multiple raffle tickets through the Washington Wild Sheep Foundation. If the slam is a long-term goal, you might be able to get away with buying just a few and crossing your fingers every year. Otherwise, you’re probably going to have to pony up some money just to get a tag.

Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Montana, South Dakota, Nebraska, Wyoming, Colorado, Nevada, Arizona, Utah and New Mexico all hold Rocky Mountain bighorns and offer hunting. Make sure to check local regulations to find out the draw process for them where you plan to hunt them. Also be aware that some states may only dole out these tags to people who are residents.

Bighorns are also found in British Columbia and Alberta. But guided hunts in these provinces aren’t cheap either. It’s interesting that the one sheep with by far the most hunting opportunities may also be the one of the more expensive to hunt.

A Rocky Mountain bighorn can be swapped out in the grand slam with our next sheep, the California bighorn.

5. California Bighorn Sheep

Despite the name, you can’t actually take a California bighorn in the Golden State because there’s no season there anymore. Weird, right? Might lead to some confusion when taking people around your trophy room, but it’s another beautiful sheep that your buddies aren’t likely to have in their trophy room. There is also a population in Utah, but you can’t hunt them there either. So that leaves Washington, Oregon, North Dakota, Nevada or Idaho. British Columbia is the only Canadian option for this sheep.

This is another very hard-to-get tag. Some areas, like Idaho, may only hand out one or two tags for a given area. Much like the Rocky Mountain bighorn, it may be difficult to get your hands on one.

6. Desert Bighorn Sheep

The official grand slam records Grand Slam Club Ovis, cites the desert bighorn as the one species that may keep many hunters from completing their slam. Unfortunately, the desert sheep is the hardest tag to procure. “Some are lucky enough to draw a coveted permit in one of the western states while others usually have to pay premium prices for a Mexico permit or special Governors permit,” the GSCO’s website states.

This is also the only sheep of the six in which is not found in Canada. You’ll have to stick with Arizona, New Mexico, Texas, Utah, Arizona, California or Colorado on this hunt.

Your other options are south of the border in Mexico. Sonora, North Baja and South Baja Mexico.

With a total population numbering somewhere just under 20,000 for all the U.S. states the desert bighorn calls home. It’s little wonder landing a hunt for a desert ram is such a difficult thing to do.

As you can see, completing the North American Wild Sheep Grand Slam isn’t an easy thing to do. Half of your trouble will just be in getting your hands on a permit for some of these species. Make sure to properly document everything about your hunts, you will need it when submitting your slam to the GSCO.

Other information on submitting details of your harvests can be found here.

But one thing is for sure, you’ll get to see a lot of awesome country across North America and you’ll certainly have some adventure stories to tell if you take this adventure on!

Products featured on Wide Open Spaces are independently selected by our editors. However, when you buy something through our links, we may earn a commission.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

NEXT: THE AXIS DEER AND HOW THEY’RE IMPACTING PARTS OF THE UNITED STATES

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Keep reading to learn the story about how I got my first deer.

Just after first light that morning, my father tapped me on the knee and slowly motioned to our left. I looked and saw two shapes carefully moving through the mist. Looking through the scope on my rifle, I could see that the shapes were two young bucks about 50 yards away walking warily towards the feeder in front of us and my pulse quickened. “They’re bucks” I whispered to my father. “Pick one and go ahead and shoot him” my father responded. Steadying the rifle on the front rail of the deer stand, I took aim at the front shoulder of the lead buck and squeezed the trigger. With the roar of the rifle, I shot my first deer and my life changed forever.

The road to that day began many years previously when I began accompanying my father and grandfather on their deer hunting trips, as I described in my previous article. As the years went by and I grew older and more mature, I began hunting myself. I started off hunting squirrels and other small game animals. By the time I turned 11, my father decided I was old enough to hunt deer under his supervision.

That summer we attended a hunter education class together and he purchased a rifle for me: a post-1964 Winchester Model 70 Featherweight chambered in .308 Winchester. He made some special reduced power hand loads for me that had considerably less recoil than factory loads. The 130gr bullet fired at 2300 feet per second was still plenty powerful for a white tail at relatively close range, but the recoil was much easier on my wiry frame to shoot than full power loads.

My father was, and still is, very serious about hunting safely and ethically. Even though I was going to be hunting under his direct supervision, he was very strict about ensuring that understood when and when not to shoot as well as the details of shot placement. As a result, I spent hours at the range practicing precise shot placement at various ranges and angles.

Finally, I had to pass a written test designed and administered by my dad. The test covered a lot of details about hunting in general that were not covered in the hunter safety class. For instance, one of the questions was: How do you best determine if a deer is actually dead when you find the body after trailing it? Answer: while approaching the deer from behind, use a stick or the barrel of your rifle to touch the deer’s eye. If there is no reflex movement, then the deer is actually dead and is safe to otherwise touch. When we hit the woods that fall, I was probably one of the best prepared boys to ever start deer hunting.

Several years previously, my dad had constructed a two person, elevated stand down in a creek bottom overlooking a feeder on our land in eastern Texas that we would hunt from that year. That area was always a solid producer of deer: my dad once counted 17 does eating from the feeder at the same time. If there was ever an ideal place for a young hunter like me to shoot my first deer, this was it.

That first morning dawned foggy and crisp with a very light wind from the north. To this day I love weather like that because I’ve had so much success hunting in those conditions. This particular morning would be the first of those successes and I distinctly remember seeing the muzzle flash of my rifle through the fog while looking through the scope at the buck.

The buck staggered at the shot and disappeared back the way he came. From his reaction, I knew that I had made a good shot. If it is even possible, I think my father was even more excited than I was after the shot (and I was pretty darn excited). He gave me a pat on the back and said “You didn’t even feel the rifle kick did you?” No, I didn’t, and I don’t remember the report of the rifle hurting my ears either due to the adrenaline rush I was feeling.

After a few minutes, we got down and began looking for the buck. We quickly found him shot through both lungs. Even that reduced power .308 Winchester load did a number on him: the buck ran less than 25 yards after the shot. With just six points, he was not a big deer by any stretch of the imagination. However, I was a very happy young man that day and I still look back upon the hunt where I got my first deer fondly. I have plenty of larger and more impressive trophies hanging in my office, but I still proudly display the antlers from that little buck on the wall. There is no feeling like the first time and on that cold day in December I took my first step into the world of big game hunting.

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NEXT: 33 BEST HUNTING BOOKS EVERY HUNTER SHOULD READ

Around the middle of August, wing shooters start preparing for the upcoming dove season. Shotguns will be cleaned and oiled up, camo clothing will be unpacked, and the serious hunters will try to get in a few practice rounds of skeet or sporting clays. Just before the dove season starts, I see first-time hunters at my day job, stocking up on dove hunting gear. Inevitably, one of the questions asked has to do with the ideal clothing for dove hunting, but another commonly asked, and related question is can doves see color?

As a child, dove hunting was my first introduction to the sport of wing shooting. Although I was too young to carry my own shotgun then, my father and his brothers would let me take a few shots under strict supervision. After my first dove hunt, I was hooked! I eagerly looked forward to Labor Day weekend in central North Carolina when dove season opened. My love of wing shooting also led me to hunt quail, mountain grouse, woodcock, and the occasional pheasant out of state. However, dove season remains one of my favorite hunting activities.

Dove Eyesight Basics

Like most North American bird species, all species of doves have excellent vision. Their vision is acute enough to identify small food items (usually seeds) while flying along at speeds of 50+ miles per hour.

Research indicates that, due to their eye location, doves have a 340-degree field of view. And, unlike a dove’s distant relative, the pigeon, who has issues with depth perception, nearly all species of doves have very good depth perception.

Because doves rely on their eyesight as a primary means to detect danger, they are extremely good at detecting even the smallest amount of movement. While dove hunting, the hunter’s movement is usually what doves pick up on first, causing them to flare away or change course to avoid the perceived predator.

Are Doves Able to See Color?

Not only are all species of doves able to see color, but a 2007 study found that they can also see more colors in the color spectrum than a human. The portion of the eye associated with color detection is called cones. Humans have three cones, allowing us to see reds, blues, and greens. Birds, including all species of doves, have four cones allowing them to see colors invariable to the human eye. Doves are able to see blue, green, and red but can also see ultraviolet colors. So not only do doves possess superior vision compared to a human, but they can also see colors in the UV spectrum that we can’t.

In addition to being able to see a broader spectrum of colors, the additional cone in a dove’s eye also offers wavelength filtering allowing them to see the differences or contrast in color changes. Although their vision isn’t quite up to being polarized, it’s pretty darn close. The enhanced contrast is believed to assist doves in detecting movement, identifying predators, and identifying food sources on the ground.

What Should I Wear Dove Hunting?

While blaze orange or hunter orange safety clothing certainly has its place in most hunting scenarios, out in a dove field is not one of those situations. Doves can certainly detect the color orange (quite well), and the contrast between orange and a darker background would likely make the hunter easily identifiable.

While complete camouflage clothing isn’t really necessary, I would recommend wearing darker-colored or drab-colored clothing in an effort to help blend in with the background being hunted. I prefer to wear camo pants, a camo shirt, and a camo hat with a wide brim to help block out the sun.

Some dove hunters go the extra mile and wear either a face covering or face paint in an effort to make their face less visible. Personally, I don’t wear a face covering for early-season dove hunting but do while hunting late season doves.

Late season doves are far warier of hunters and movement and will flare away or flee at any movement or strange objects in their flight path. I find that dove decoys are more helpful during late-season hunts compared to opening day hunts.

FAQS

Here are some frequently asked questions related to dove hunting and a dove’s eyesight:

Do doves have good eyesight?

As I mentioned above, all species of doves have excellent eyesight with color contrast and very good depth perception. The color contrast aspect of their vision allows them to identify even slight movement as a predatory defense mechanism. In addition, their vision is acute enough to perceive predators or threats due to color contrasts that are not visible to the human eye.

Do I have to wear orange or blaze orange while Dove hunting?

First, I’d check the specific dove hunting regulations for the state where you’ll be hunting. It’s possible that your state may have regulations that mandate blaze orange safety clothing while dove hunting. However, since doves can see color, I’m not aware of a state that does mandate hunter-safety clothing during dove season.

Assuming that your state does not have a rule or regulation in place mandating hunter-orange clothing, I’d suggest not wearing any blaze orange while dove hunting. Doves are not colorblind and can see orange quite well. Wearing orange on a dove hunt could decrease your odds of a successful hunt.

By: DIY_guy

We all want to use goods quality products on our guns, bows, fishing gear, knives, autos, hunting and lake front gear and like you I?m not a fan of letting things get rust on them nor am I a fan of items wearing out prematurely. To protect my investment in gear, I began searching for rust inhibitors and lubrication solutions to make the maintenance of my gear as effective and efficient as possible but I understand that neglect is the primary cause of corrosion and wear and we must be diligent but having a corrosion inhibitor and lubricants aiding us in meeting those goals is helpful.

The problem is there are so many products on the market all making claims of how well they perform. Who do you trust? What is one to believe? Online searches turned up all manner of comparisons, reviews and evaluations of a couple of products here and a few more there but no large sampling of a really long list of products all compared at the same time. So that?s what I set out to do to determine for myself which product I want to use as a rust inhibitor and lubricant. Along the way I will also look at water displacement (a common claim) as well as reactions with non-metal components. The attributes I set out to evaluate are:

Water displacer:

Many of the products I purchased for this evaluation make claims in regards to being a water displacer or that they have water displacing properties. Its an interesting claim but it got me to wondering why I should care?? I thinks its great if a product displaces water does it adds to a products worth or usefulness?? We all know that moisture is everywhere from fog to rain to snow to humid environments to warm to cold condensation as well as sweat and dew. so perhaps the water displacement claims are meant to drive us to their products with promises of improved protection so I plan to investigate that claim.

Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

Lubrication:

How well does the product lubricate? And in what state, meaning does it reduce friction better in its wet form or in a dry form after its wiped away/allowed to dry? If it offers the most friction reduction in a wet form but that wet form is a magnet for dust, dirt and carbon, then its counterproductive because that wet lube becomes a gritty sludge. If it can be applied, wiped dry and still reduce friction (while fighting rust) that would be preferred. I will investigate lubrication.

Compatibility:

How safe is it for plastics, rubber and gun finishes and coatings?

That a fair question since these products are expected to be applied to guns, bows, knives, fishing gear, etc that are composed of a variety of non-metallic materials and finishes/coatings. A product that displaces water and inhibits rust is great but if it melts your plastic and rubber and destroys the finish on your gun, its destined for the trash can. I plan to investigate compatibility as well.

Corrosion inhibition:

That?s the primary reason for this evaluation. I plan to investigate these products compared to one another for their ability to delay the formation of corrosion.

The goal here is to find a product that does the best job at inhibiting corrosion, reducing friction, does not harm plastic, rubber or finishes, displaces waters and does not force me to wear a gas mask to apply. A product that can do all of the above may not exist but I?m willing to find out.

The next question was “Which products?” Until now, my stable of gun/bow/tool care products was pretty small. Like most sportsmen I had my “go-to” products because that is what my local retailer carried. I hadn’t thought much beyond availability and then fell into a comfort zone with those products. I took to the web and did a search as well as asking for suggestions on a couple of web forums and learned many of these products have passionate followers even if I had never heard of them. Was I missing out on a superior product????

The next step in the process was to take out a 2nd mortgage and buy up as many products as I could get my hands on and then wait for the brown truck to become a daily fixture in my driveway. The products I will be evaluating (in no particular order) are

Here is the entire ensemble of products I used ?in this evaluation.

Here are the products marketed and sold for gun care/maintenance.

You probably recognize many of the products in the lineup. Most are dedicated products marketed to the sportsman for this purpose but some are products that over the years have been used by sportsmen that are not necessarily marketed for this purpose. One such example is simple paste wax and Kroil which were recommended to me by people living in coastal environments. Another is WD 40 and 3 in one oil which have been used by everyone that owns metal since the 1940’s. These are not marketed as a gun care products but since they are used by so many in that regard, they were thrown into this evaluation for comparison sake. All products were purchased from either local retailers, online or at gun shows with the exception of the Pennzoil motor oil. I secured that from the local speedy oil change location and only a small amount for this evaluation.

First up is an evaluation of Smell/odor:

Because my primary passion is bowhunting followed by gun deer hunting, scent/odor is important to me. If a product stinks to high heaven I am less likely to use it even if it offers other benefits. Gauging odor is pretty subjective since something that smells bad to me might be appealing to the next person. I will evaluate odor as best as I can.

While this evaluation might seem firearms-centric I?m hoping to come away with products that I will also use during bowhunting trips on things like my bow, broadheads, knives, pruning saws, treestands, climbing sticks, camera arms and other items I take afield as well as my firearms and hunting gear that I want to protect from corrosion. For that reason, odor/scent is something I pay close attention to. Some of these products have an odor that is present straight from the container that dissipates quickly after drying while some products continue to smell long after application. A strong odor even if its pleasant is still a strong odor and something I hope to avoid in the products I use.

I created the following ranking for odor.

No odor

Mild odor

Strong odor

And then any notes about the particular odor. I wrote down the first thing that popped into my head after taking a wiff of each product. See the data below.

**NOTE**This exercise may not account for much once you factor in the dissipation factor once dry and the scant amount left after wiping off the excess product but since I had to use each product I noted the smells and recorded them.

Next up in this evaluation is the water displacement claim. In regards to water displacement, the implied message is that the product, if applied to a wet gun/bow/tool will drive out (displace) the moisture and then protect the metal from moisture and corrosion. This is a pretty easy claim to prove or disprove since the very definition of displacement occurs when an object that is introduced to water, pushes the water out of the way and takes its place (displacing the water). If a product simply floats on top of water, it does not ?displace? it.

If the product doesn?t break the surface tension of water, penetrate and displace the water to reach metal parts, then for the purposes of this evaluation It won?t be counted as a water displacer. In contrast, those products that break the surface tension of water, displace the water and penetrate it will be counted as water displacers. This will be done with the raw product directly from their container and NOT the dried or cured product after the propellant, carriers or distillates evaporate or dissolves.

The process of evaluating water displacement is as follows.

1. A container is partially filled with water

2. Raw product (from its original container) is introduced to the water filled container.

3. The product is observed and noted as to whether it displaced (penetrated, broke the surface tension) of the water or whether it simply rested on top of the water.

It should be noted that the ability of a product to displace water does not automatically imply that it will inhibit rust or provide lubrication. A rock or brick (if placed in a container of water) will displace water but will offer no corrosion protection or lubrication. Simply because a product can actually displace water does not automatically translate into corrosion inhibiting or lubrication properties.

Rust inhibiting and lubrication will be evaluated separately but so many of the products made a point of claiming water displacing properties that I thought it worth evaluating. In the grand scheme I dont know if water displacing is going to amount to a hill of beans since lubrication and corrosion fighting can take place even if the product does not displace water but so many of the products made the displacement claim that I opted to evaluate it.

Results: The vast majority of the products evaluated DID NOT displace water. 3 in one oil is a good example. It was in no way a water displacing agent but to its credit, it does not claim to be.

Rather than listing each product and whether or not it displaced water, Here are the only 3 that DID displace water as well as a look at 3 in one oil as a comparison. The water displacing products are:

The picture above can be a bit deceiving. The 3 water displacers look as if a thin film of product is floating on the water. That is not the case. What you are seeing is the surface tension of the water acting like a mirror. You can tell by looking closely to see the reflection of the top of metal hex nut that looks to be floating on that thin film. There was no floating compound on the surface of any of the 3 products. I then rolled and tilted and shook the bottle to see if the compound clung to the metal surface and kept water off the metal part. In all cases, the metal part was coated in the compound and resisted water clinging to the metal. After this agitation I allowed the bottles to rest for an hour to see if the compound separated or changed in any way after being exposed to the water. No change was noted. I did however observe some changes to the plastic bottle that held the Strike hold product. Notice the impact Strike Hold had on the plastic bottle. That leads me to the next area of interest.

Compatability:

Next up is evaluating compatibility with non-metal compounds. This is a tough claim to challenge since there are more plastic and rubber compounds and types of finishes than anybody could possibly check. Some products clearly stated they are not safe for rubber or plastic or finishes and cautioned the user to first test on a discrete location. Other products stated they are safe for (or outright encouraged use) on finishes, leather, wood, etc while still others made no warning nor statement in this regard. A simple check for reaction is to place a small amount of each product on polystyrene (Styrofoam) and observe the reaction. We know what Gas and Acetone do to Styrofoam and we wouldn?t use those harsh products on our gun finish or plastics or rubber so I will use that as a base for this evaluation. Compounds known to destroy polystyrene are Gasoline, Benzene, Toluene, Acetone, Xylene. There are other agents harmful to polystyrene but you get the point. Since its not practical to do a compatibility evaluation with every known type of plastic and every type of gun finish and paint, I only tested polystyrene and took the warnings about compatibility from the product labels.

The majority of the products did not harm nor soften polystyrene. Here is the sheet I used for the evaluation.

Here is an easier to read image of the products in this evaluation that dissolved polystyrene. It should be noted that all 3 water displacers were harmful to the evaluation sheet of polystyrene yet 6 other products that were not water displacers were also harmful to the sheet.

lubrication:

The reduction of friction/heat in moving metal parts is what I evaluated next. Many of the products make claims in regards to lubrication meaning a reduction in friction/heat/wear. (some make fantastic claims) To evaluate lubrication claims I will evaluate static friction forces. If you slept through your science/physics classes, Static Friction is the force that resists the movement of two objects against one another when the objects are initially at rest. To evaluate the lubrication claims I made a simple device to evaluate static friction forces. Two polished steel surfaces are used to mimic firearms parts. Its size and length of travel was meant to mimic the travel of the action of your typical firearm. A force is applied to cause the weighted steel sled to begin moving on a steel track. Increasing amounts of water are added to a container that is tethered to the weighted sled until the weight is great enough to overcome friction and move the sled. The weight of that water will be recorded to establish a factor compared to dry steel against dry steel.

To establish a baseline value for two dry steel surfaces, the exercise was repeated 8 times and then an average was established. Each product will be evaluated by applying the product to both surfaces and recording the amount of weight (force) required to get the weighted sled to move and then repeating the exercise 8 times to arrive at an average force.

Here are a few photos of the device used to capture static friction forces.

Here is a brief video of the device in action. (note that in an effort to make the video as short as possible I poured the water faster then I will during the actual evaluation)

How much lube to use:

We have all been instructed to apply lubrication liberally and to wipe off any excess. This seems counter intuitive if you consider something like packing a wheel bearing or using a grease zerk where metal parts are suspended in a bath of lubricant. Gun parts, folding knives, fishing reels and tools however are tightly toleranced with almost no room for large volumes of lubricant but aside from space constraints, excess lubricants cause an increase in effort required to get parts moving. I?m not versed in fluid dynamics but I quickly learned what happens when too much lubricant is applied. Being curious about what I observed I took to the web to review terms such as ?Cohesion?, “Adhesion”, ?Fluid tackiness?, “Viscosity” and “Fluid shear” which explained what I was observing.

Excess lubricant acted like a glue that slowed or resisted parts from movement because of the surface tension and viscosity of the excess lube. As I removed more and more of the excess, I observed that less force was required to overcome static friction. In almost every case I found that removing all visible lubricant resulted in the lowest levels of friction between the two polished steel plates. What we have been told is correct, apply liberally to coat and then remove all excess to the point where you think you have removed too much and you will enjoy the least amount of friction. The side benefit to that dry level of lubrication is that it will not attract foreign contaminants that could get trapped in excess/wet lubricant.

To ensure there is no cross contamination of products on the sled/track device, after each product is evaluated, the sled and track are cleaned with acetone and paper towels until the dry to dry friction values were restored. Several dry runs are performed before the next product was evaluated.

NOTE** I recognize this evaluation may have deficiencies. My lubrication evaluation was conducted at 70 degrees F so it is unknown if the results would be the same if evaluated at 0 or 120 degrees F. Also I am not evaluating longevity. I cycled each product 8 times to arrive at an average force and understand that a product that performed well during 8 cycles may fail long term where a product that performed slightly worse may in fact have better long term lubrication. With that said, equity was my first priority. Every product and action was conducted the same way to ensure each product was getting a fair evaluation.

I recorded the results of the force required to move the sled and used a spreadsheet to tabulate the results for this chart.

To ensure that I was getting credible data and to increase my confidence level, I conducted the lubrication evaluation a 2nd time because as you can see, one product (Frog Lube) in the first evaluation reduced friction so much that I could no add water to the container. Simply hanging the empty container on the device caused the sled to move. For the 2nd evaluation I added weight to the sled and raised the end of the track to create a 10 degree upward slope meaning the sled would have to slide up-hill with the added weight. The results changed but not by much. The top 10 performers remained the top 10 and the bottom 10 remained the bottom 10. The products did jockey each other for position within their respective groups. Here is a chart showing the results from the 2nd evaluation for friction. To make it a little easier to read I am showing only the top 10 performers and the bottom 10 performers in their new rankings.

Corrosion protection:

Lastly I evaluated corrosion protection and inhibiting. It?s a common claim made by the products in this evaluation so I want to evaluate that as well. Some of the products state that they meet or exceed this test and spec or that test and certification (the most common being ASTM B117 and ISO 9227 salt fog chamber corrosion test and a variety of mil specs. ) All of those tests are very good and harsh controlled environment tests but where I found them lacking was:

1. No UV component. All the tools and gear I use spend a lot of time outside and UV rays break down even the best of products . Those UV effects are not mimicked in a sealed fog chamber in a lab.

2. Constant temps. Our gear is expected to perform in subzero to super-hot temps and sometimes those fluctuations may happen all in the same day or week. A fixed 95 degree F test is certainly equitable to all the samples but not a true environmental test with real world applications for a guy that hunts in freezing temps and then brings his gun into the cabin where it sets near the wood stove to dry out and then is returned to sub-freezing temps the next day.

3. Proximity and cross contamination. Since it?s just not cost effective to test each metal plate all by itself in a fog chamber, many samples are ganged together in a small test chamber. Being that the test chamber is only so big, they are positioned very near one another and samples are misted with the same recycled salt water carrying the corrosion from products failing the test (and the products being tested) onto samples adjacent to other parts. I hope to avoid that.

4. No real life dirt or debris. The wind carries all manner of debris on it that rests on metal parts (some more than others) An outdoor evaluation more closely simulates real ?in the field? situations.

For these reasons (and because I plan to sample far more products than has perhaps been done at the same time during any other evaluation conducted) and because I want to increase my confidence level in the results I get, I conducted 3 evaluations. Many of the home spun evaluations I have seen online ran only a single sample set implying the results would be the same if repeated. I ran 3 separate evaluations under a variety of conditions. A portion of this evaluation took place outdoors in direct sunlight with the fluctuations of night and daytime temps as well as UV exposure and wind, airborne debris and rain. Rain or not I planned to mist one group of the sample plates with a salt / water solution in the ratio of 1 tsp non-iodized salt per cup of tap water (and I have hard water with mineral deposits). This will be the most harsh environment meant to expedite the formation of corrosion.

All the sample plates were given a 320 grit (two direction) brushed finish to remove any rust inhibitors the steel maker placed on the steel so they don?t rust in the store. Then the plates were chemically cleaned with acetone prior to applying the product. Each product in the evaluation was applied to the metal per the product instructions on the label. Nearly all products labels direct the user to apply liberally and then wipe off excess product. I followed those instructions as I don?t care for a sloppy, wet gun where excess product is dripping or rubbing off, onto my clothing, gear or car. I left an amount of product on the metal just as I would when I store my firearms. The plates were attached to a suitable (non-metallic) holder at a roughly 15 degree angle from vertical. I didn?t want them lying flat so water would pool on them and I didn?t want them standing perfectly upright either as they would shed water and debris too easily.

All the metal samples were sheared out of the same sheets of cold rolled steel sourced at my local hardware store. Several of these sheets were purchased for this evaluation.

Here is sample board #1 after all the products had been applied to the sample plates. This sample board then sat in my shop for 5 hours to allow the products to fully dry or cure or evaporate or set a film before the board was exposed to the elements.

Here is a short video of all the samples on board #1.

Then the samples were misted with the salted water. Here is a closer view of the plates after the misting. Notice the different reactions with water. Most plates beaded the water.

Not all products beaded water. I don?t know the significance of this but observed and recorded it anyway. The products that did not bead water can be seen below.

After 2 hours I observed the samples. The controls were already exhibiting signs of corrosion. White spots are the result of the salt left behind after the water evaporated and does not indicate rust, just dried salt.

The plates spent the night outside and it was quite a night. Temps in the upper 30’s, a storm rolled through with wind gusts to 30 MPH and on and off rain. 24 hours after each product was applied to the plates they were observed for signs of corrosion.

**NOTE** Before I go further I will state that during the process of applying the products to the plates, I had to hold the plates by the very edges. The last contact with the plates was along the very top edge as I pushed the sample into the foam board. Some samples took considerable force to place them in the foam. For this reason I will not count against the products that are essentially corrosion free but exhibit corrosion along the edges where otherwise the bulk of the surface is corrosion free. The edge rusting is a result of my handling the samples and removing the product.

Here is sample board #1 after 24 hours

Some of the corroded samples. (some with only light corrosion and others with significant corrosion)

Here is a video of sample board #1 after 24 hours. It?s still quite windy as you will be able to hear in the video. Pause and restart as required to get a better look at samples of interest to you.

I recorded the samples with mild rusting and major rusting after 24 hours. The samples exhibiting mild rusting were

Rand CLPBallistolBreakfree CLPHoppe’s MDLRusteprufeBoeshield T-9Rem Oil w/ moisture guardATF

The samples exhibiting significant rusting were

KroilPB-50Rem Oil (regular)GunzillaSuper LubeMilitec-1Hoppe?s EliteAce Silicone GreaseAtsko Silicone SprayPennzoil3 in One oilRIG #2GibbsPaste waxBoth Controls

After 24 hours of exposure, 22 of the 46 products (48%) have already begun to show signs of corrosion but remember, the samples were misted with a salt water solution to speed up the process. The 2nd and 3rd group of plates will NOT have a salted water application.

After 48 hours of Board #1 being placed outside, here is a list of the products on board #1 that are still preventing corrosion.

CRC 3-36

M-Pro 7 LPX

Fluid Flim

Archoil AR4400

Quicken HP

Clenzoil

Barricade

Corrosion X

Frog Lube

Eezox

Hoppe?s gun oil

One Shot

WD-40 Specialist

Gun Seal

Rust Prevent

After 72 hours (and lots of wind and rain), the un-corroded sample plates on board #1 are

After 96 hours (and a mostly rain free day) here are the remaining plates from board #1 still protecting from corrosion.

After 120 hours with a day of light rain, the remaining samples have dwindled to just 3.

Another day of on and off rains and the final three are still holing on.

A rare sunny and windy day. 168 hours (7 days) have elapsed since I placed Board #1 outside. No change from the day before.

At this point I will close out the evaluation of board #1 (but continue to monitor) Here is a picture of the entire board.

Here is a video so you can get a better look at each sample. Start and stop the video as you see fit. Despite the constant rains and clouds, the UV rays have taken their toll on the sharpie marker used to denote each brand.

The second group of plates was also evaluated outdoors and started the day after board #1. The metal samples were treated with product and then sat in my shop for 12 hours to dry, cure, evaporate, film-over before the board was placed outside. Here is sample board #2

Here is a short video close up of all the samples on board #2. Even though I crossed off Frog Lube a couple days ago because of the formation of corrosion you will see its still doing a pretty good job of protecting the plate.

The plan was to mist them with clean water but with all the rain that was not required. The duration of the evaluation was a mix of sunny and bright and heavy rains but very windy exposing the samples to UV, wind, rain, dust and all the other elements we encounter when using our firearms, bows, knives, tools, etc. It was a time to conduct such an experiment.

I?m sure everybody living in my area of the state hated this wet stormy spring weather except me. I couldn?t have picked a better set of days to do this evaluation. Upper 30?s to low 40?s, high winds, on and off showers and breaks of sunlight and cold rainy nights. Its like living in a corrosion test chamber.

Most evaluations of this nature run a single set of samples and call it good enough. I?m running 3 sample boards and already I am seeing differences in results from board #1 to board #2 so I think it was a wise move to run multiple samples. Recall that board #1 was misted with a salted water solution to expedite corrosion. Sample board #2 has only seen exposure to rain water but the results after 24 hours are showing sample board #2 is has more product failures than board #1 in its first 24 hours (something I did not expect to see). When I observed sample board #1 after 24 hours, a total of 23 samples exhibited signs of corrosion. Sample board #2 has been outside for 24 hours and already 34 of the 46 products are exhibiting signs of corrosion (74% of the products are failing)

Oddly, the controls on board #2 (which are treated with nothing) are faring better than some of the plates that are protected by product (opposite of what was observed on board #1)

Here is a photo of sample board #2 after the first 24 hours.

It?s a shorter list to name the products that are still providing resistance to corrosion on Sample board #2. They are.

Gun Seal

WD-40 Specialist

Hoppe?s gun oil

Boeshield T-9

Frog Lube

Rust prevent

Tuf-Glide

Rem Oil with moisture Guard

Weapons Shield

Hornady One Shot

Militec-1

Rand CLP

Here is a video of board #2 so you can see which products are failing in the first 24 hours. (don?t confuse debris with rust. The video may make it look like some plates are corroding when they are actually use dirty from all the wind blown debris and rain)

After 48 hours, the un-corroded samples from board #2 are shown below (I contend that the Hornady ?s One Shot, edge corrosion shown below is edge contamination on my part as described earlier. I can?t otherwise explain why the majority of the plate is corrosion free expect a strip along the left edge except that I failed to apply the product to that portion of the plate.)

Its clear that if I had only used a single sample board, I would have arrived are incorrect conclusions about some of these products. Multiple boards that show products preventing corrosion on those boards increases the confidence level in the evaluation.

With a break in the rains here are the remains of Board #2

More rain and the list is growing shorter.

After 120 hrs, Board #2 is down to the final 3.

144 hours and no change from the day before. Based on board #1 and no change in board #2 I am ending the evaluation of board #2

Here is a picture of Board #2

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c2…ps567f25ba.jpg

Here is a video of Board #2 so you can get a close up view of each product. Pause and restart as you see fit.

By now you may have noticed some commonality in the remaining samples of board #2 and board #1. Results would indicate that

Hoarnady’s One shot

WD 40 Specialist

And perhaps Frog Lube

Have shown they outperform the others with Rust Prevent also doing a heck of a job. Running multiple boards has increased my confidence level in the results observed. But there is a third corrosion evaluation (the indoor one) that started the same day and Board #2. I will remind you that Board #1 and #2 were extreme conditions (abuse) simply to expedite the formation of corrosion under salted water and rain water conditions (as well as fog, cold temps, temp fluctuations, lots of wind and some UV rays thrown in for good measure). It?s doubtful any gun, bow, knife or tool owner is going to subject his gear to this in real life but that is the nature of such an evaluation. By design it was meant to be tough. Board 3 will more closely mimic conditions seen while storing our gear.

The third and final Board will be a combination evaluation. One portion will focus on the fingerprint issue on firearms and the other portion of the evaluation deals with longevity. This evaluation will be conducted indoors with no application of water to speed up corrosion.

Here is sample board #3 with all the plates coated in their respective products. Sample Board #3 sat in my shop for 4 hours to allow all the products to dry or cure or evaporate or skim over (some products make claims in this regard) then each was given a fingerprint on the metal. We all have different oils and acids and salts in our fingerprints so not every fingerprint will cause the same level of corrosion. I don?t have 48 fingers and washing after each sample to prevent cross contamination would only remove the salts and oils from my finger so I had to outsource the fingerprint job to a friend (we will call him “Frank” or “Oscar”) because I will substitute a hotdog for a finger.

Like me the hotdog is made mostly of meat (with some fillers) water, salt and fat (in my case perhaps too much fat) to prevent cross contamination, a fresh slice was made off the end of the sacrificial wiener to provide an equitable fingerprint on each sample plate. A nice greasy and salty fingerprint was placed in the lower left hand corner of each sample.

Sample board #3 will spend its time in my dinning room and be observed for signs of corrosion.(Until my wife gets sick of it and makes me move out into my shop)

Board #3 will be observed and photographed and at the point plates begin to fail (determined as rust appearing on the surface) they will be tallied until all the samples have failed and I expect at some point all will eventually fail. It may take weeks or months (perhaps years) for that to happen to sample board #3. As of this writting its been 9 days with no signs of corrosion on any plates.

As for me, Here is what I took away from this (even though Board #3 is still being observed)

With this evaluation behind me, I an unlikley to condsider the WD 40 specialist as a gun care product because it wasnt marketed as a cleaner (not meant to be a cleaner so I cant knock for that) and it didnt rank terribly high for lubrication but I will be using it for many other outdoor applications and tools where I want to delay corrosion. The column of my drill press, the top of my table saw, my lathe, saw blades, hand tools and lots of other tools will benefit from its ability to protect from rust.

Frog lube impressed in both lubrication and corrosion inhibition but I wonder how good a cleaner it is? The mfgr website touts it as a cleaner but I am uncertain. (only speculation on my part)

Hornady’s One Shot strikes me as more of a cleaner than Frog Lube and WD 40 specialist (speculation on my part) and it certainly performed well as a lube and corrosion inhibitor.

Final thoughts

1. There are two enemies to our guns. Neglect and liberal Democrats who dislike the 2nd amendment. Do everything in your power to make sure neither are allowed to make any advances on your weapons.

2. Use these products in a well-ventilated area and wear gloves. Health is your first wealth. Protect it like you do your gear.

3. Water displacing claims don?t mean much. None of the 3 water displacers performed well in the corrosion or lubrication evaluation.

4. Don?t over lube. Its far worse than under lubing. Wipe off the lube to the point you think you may have taken off too much and you should be just about right.

5. Not all gun care products are created equal. Choose wisely. Knowledge is power. I have a little more thanks to this evaluation.

6. If you have had a preferred gun care product that has served you well for many years, there is no need to change even if your product did not fare well in this evaluation. If your outdoor gear functions well and is corrosion free and you are happy with the product and like the smell, why fix what isn?t broken. See note 1.

7. This WAS NOT an evaluation of all the gun care products on the market. It was only an evaluation of the 46 products I assembled for this evaluation. If your favorite product was not included in this evaluation, all anybody can do is speculate as to how it WOULD have performed. While seaking suggestions for which products to include in this evaluation, The recommendations I received came with comments about how I needn’t to look any further than their preferred brand as it is the best of the best. In spite of asking for suggestions on multiple forums, nobody recommended Hornady One shot. I found it via a web search at Midway’s web site. Frog lube was suggested by many. If there is a better product out there, I will no doubt hear about soon by those lamenting the fact it wasn’t included in this evaluation.

8. Since I now have more product than any person should own, I may entertain conducting another evaluation with additional products to see how they stack up against the top 5 from this evaluation. I’ve set aside the friction test bed (after coating it with WD 40 specialist to prevent rust) just in case I get the urge.

Edited May 6 9. I am In no way affiliated with or in any way attached to any of the products or companies of the products I evaluated. I am in no way compensated by any product brand name or manufacturer as a result of this evaluation. No company asked me to conduct this evaluation. All products were purchased by me and none were sent or gifted to me for this evaluation.

Upon completion of this evaluation I sent emails to several of the manufacturers of the products used. Thus far (4 days after sending the emails) I have received only one reply and it came from the founders of Frog Lube. Here is that reply.

?Ron,

We are stunned by the exhaustive and comprehensive approach of your testing. And we are quite flattered at the result. You have done something no one else has done.

We do our testing in primarily in operating firearms, but we have done some technical tests such as the corrosion and lubricity testing and have seen the same results.

May we use this link to share with our customers on line and in our facebook page? We have lots of fans (and a few competitors) who would appreciate seeing this.

Also, we very much appreciate your ‘objectivity’ and your public claims. This strengthens the validity of your results.

Thanks again for sharing this profound work with us.

Larry Lasky & Stacy LaskyFrogLube Founders ?

—-

I replied to them with the following:

?Feel free to share or distribute the info as you see fit. Prior to this evaluation I had never used Frog Lube (or many of the products I evaluated) so I was curious and ended up doing this evaluation. My search for lube and corrosion solution was not entirely firearms centric as I am more of an archer and bowhunter so I would like to make this request. Archery and Bowhunting are very large markets with direct overlap to firearms owners. The same holds true for the rapidly increasing crossbow and crossbowhunting market. All of these user groups require lubrication and corrosion solutions.

The main difference for the bowhunting and crossbow hunting market is the scent/smell of products we use due to how close bowhunters and perhaps crossbow hunters have to get to prey to make a successful shot. The minty smell of Frog Lube may keep this user group from using your product. Would it be possible to remove the minty scent and create a scent free version? Breaking into the archery/bowhunting and crossbow hunting market would create another demographic purchasing your product. Please consider it. You would certainly have me as a customer for more than just firearms usage.

Ron?

Its been 288 hours (12 days) since Board #1 was placed outside and 264 hours (11 days) for Board #2 so I thought I would update. There has been some rain this week but lots of sun and wind and the trees are spreading all manner of pollen and debris in the air. The Sun?s UV rays have all but made the sharpie marker unreadable but I have a map and can still make it out enough to see.

Here are the two boards where they are residing on the patio.

And here are the close-ups of the samples.

As for Board #3 in my house. Its been 240 hours (10 days) and as expected, the indoor protection in a constant environment has them all still in fine shape.

?

We have been experiencing torrential rains and flash flooding. When it isn?t raining its very humid. Its certainly been a wet spring. The UV rays have now completely erased the sharpie marker labels on the boards but I know which is which from prior photos. Here is a picture of the two boards with board #1 at 15 days (360 hours) and board #2 at 14 days (336 hours). The top 3 performing products are continuing to protect the steel plates.

Its been 20 days since I started board #3 which is the indoor board with the (hotdog) fingerprint.

The first (and only) sample so far to exhibit corrosion has appeared. The rust is only in the fingerprint area. The sample plate is the one coated with Eezox.

Update on the two outdoors corrosion boards. Hornady One shot has finally failed on Board #2 Leaving Frog Lube and WD 40 Specialist but the Hornady product is still going strong on board #1.

Rock veteran Ted Nugent initially gained fame as the lead guitarist of The Amboy Dukes during the early times of his career. The rocker embarked on a solo career following his band’s break-up and has been releasing successful records such as ‘Cat Scratch Fever,’ ‘Free-For-All,’ and ‘Tooth Fang and Claw’ since then.

Perhaps one of the things that is as famous as his music career is Nugent’s private life. The musician mostly makes the headlines with his controversial conservative political views. In addition to this, he unapologetically supports gun ownership rights and hunting.

When his interesting opinions are combined with his successful music career, finding something unique about the musician’s life is almost inevitable. In fact, there was one time when Nugent gave his first two children for adoption and met them for the first timeafter four decades, thanks to his daughter. Let’s dive into this one-of-a-kind story together.

Ted Nugent Gave His Two Children Away

Ted Nugent has been married twice in his lifetime and currently has six children with four women. When he was a wild and young rock star, the musician had a son and a daughter with his then-girlfriend in the late 1960s before his first marriage.

Since he was a very young artist who couldn’t take care of a kid, Nugent gave up his children for adoption when they were firstborn. The siblings were adopted separately and had no contact with one another. Furthermore, they didn’t know anything about their father and each other until 2010.

In one of his articles, Nugent looked back on those times and said he didn’t want to give away his baby, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent. However, he and his girlfriend knew they weren’t ready for parenting. After their break up, the rocker kept thinking about his kids but preferred to stay away from their lives.

Recalling those days, Nugent penned:

“My girlfriend was at the hotel with our brand new son, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent, and we both knew that we were not ready to raise a child, so we reluctantly handed off this beautiful baby to a Catholic adoption agency, certain we were doing the right thing.

Life blazed on, and his mother and I drifted apart as teenage lovers are wont to do, but I never stopped thinking about little Fleetwood throughout the very intense adventure that my amazing career provided. The adoption papers were sealed, so the last thing I wanted to do was intervene and possibly disrupt the life Fleetwood was living with his new family.”

The entire situation wasn’t made public until 2010 when Nugent’s daughter Louisa found out about her biological father and requested to contact him. The following story is incredibly touching as both children, who are now grown-ups, found out that their father is a rock star.

Ted Nugent Met His Son After 42 Years

A New York restaurant owner who was adopted as an infant was shocked when he discovered that his biological father is Ted Nugent. When Nugent’s daughter found out about him through the adoption agency, she also found his brother and wanted to see her biological family. Thus, one day, Theodore Fleetwood Nugent got an unexpected phone call from a sister he never knew he had.

The two siblings reached out to Ted Nugent, who also penned this emotional experience in his article. On Theodore’s 42nd birthday, they got together for the first time, which was a heartfelt and incredibly happy reunion, according to Nugent. The rocker stated that his children were raised by great families who turned them into amazing Americans.

In his article, Nugent wrote:

“Well, long story short, on October 28, 2010, on his 42nd birthday, the planets aligned, and with the help of his sister Louisa (another amazing story unto itself) the three of us met together for the very 1st time since his birth, and what a wonderful, glorious, emotional and incredibly happy reunion it was!

Both Fleetwood and Louisa were raised by wonderful, loving families, and the fact that they both grew into great Americans is testimony to the love of adopted families.”

Since then, Ted Nugent has been close with his two children. He even recently celebrated his son’s 53rd birthday, saying he’s loved by everybody around him. It appears that their touching reunion over a decade ago bonded the father and son for the rest of their lives.

Timing is often critical to getting a shot while bowhunting. Whether hunting with a crossbow or a compound, preparing to shoot typically takes longer than when hunting with firearm.

With a compound, it also requires more movement. These are challenges that bowhunters readily accept and that bow manufacturers seek to help them overcome.

Being able to deftly maneuver a bow is key to capitalizing on a shot opportunity. No matter if the hunt occurs in a treestand or a ground blind, or even in the form of spot-and-stalk, crossbows with narrow widths and compounds with short axle-to-axle lengths shine in tight quarters.

They are easier to carry off the beaten path and guide around brush, branches and vegetation without hang-ups. New technology allows manufacturers to build easy-handling bows that are not only fast, but also accurate and comfortable to shoot.

Here are seven new models that are among the most compact on the market. They might buy you those extra few moments you need to make a shot.

Ravin R500E

Ravin promises the R500E will deliver 500 fps with the 400-grain arrows that come with the bow. Unprecedented speed is exciting, but the cocking system is just as impressive. The battery-powered Ravin Electric Drive System allows shooters to cock and decock the crossbow with just a push of a button. This cocking system is detachable and includes a charger, and the R500E can still be cocked manually with Ravin’s VersaDrive System. The R500E has an axle-to-axle spec of just 3.6 inches when cocked. While the overall width of the crossbow is certainly wider than the axle-to-axle figure, it’s still ultra-narrow. The R500E’s 28-inch length also contributes to the compact nature of this crossbow.

• Axle-to-Axle, Cocked: 3.6″
• Axle-to-Axle, Uncocked: 7.6″
• Power Stroke: 15″
• Length: 28″
• Weight: 9.9 lbs
• Speed: 500 fps
• MSRP: $3,349
• ravincrossbows.com

Wicked Ridge NXT 400

At just six inches wide axle-to-axle when cocked, the NXT 400 is Wicked Ridge’s narrowest crossbow ever. Its XR6 Cams and Vector-Quad cable technology uses four cables instead of two to power 200-pound limbs. The result is a speed of up to 400 fps with 400-grain arrows. Without the foot stirrup, the NXT 400 is 33 inches long and weighs less than 7 1/2 pounds. The NXT 400 package includes an ACUdraw cocking device, TenPoint 3X Pro-View scope, three-arrow quiver, and three Pro Elite 400 carbon arrows with practice points.

• Axle-to-Axle, Cocked: 6″
• Axle-to-Axle, Uncocked: 11.3″
• Power Stroke: 15 1/2″
• Length: 33″
• Weight: 7.4 lbs
• Speed: 400 fps
• MSRP: $1,099.99
• wickedridgecrossbows.com

TenPoint Havoc RS440 Xero

The TenPoint Havoc RS440 Xero is a top-quality crossbow, but it’s what’s on top of the Havoc that sets it apart. This crossbow ships with the Garmin Xero X1i rangefinding scope. Press a button, and the scope determines the distance to the target then automatically provides an illuminated aiming point based on the range (see “Gear: How It Works,” page 100). The Havoc RS440 includes TenPoint’s ACUslide System, which makes cocking and decocking quiet, safe and nearly effortless. Easy to handle, the Havoc measures less than 27 inches long without the foot stirrup and 28 3/4 inches with the stirrup. The two-stage S1 trigger is silky smooth, and pull weight is a smidge under 3 pounds. The Havoc RS440 is also available with a more conventional EVO-X scope that features a holdover reticle.

• Axle-to-Axle, Cocked: 7 1/2″
• Axle-to-Axle, Uncocked: 12.3″
• Power Stroke: 13 1/2″
• Length: 26 1/2″
• Weight: 7 1/2 lbs
• Speed: 440 fps
• MSRP: $3,649.99
• tenpointcrossbows.com

Mission Sub-1 XR

When cocked, the Mission Sub-1 XR measures 9.1 inches axle-to-axle and 13 inches at its widest point. It produces arrow speeds of up to 410 fps. The Sub-1 XR is easy to cock without a cranking device, but a silent Mission RSD Crank is an optional add-on. A speed-compensating Hawke scope is included in the package, along with a quiver and soft case. (The Sub-1 XR can also be purchased without the scope, quiver and arrows for $200 less.) This crossbow is incredibly accurate, thanks in part to a match-grade trigger that breaks crisply at about 3 pounds of pull weight. And if the hunt doesn’t end with a shot, the Sub-1 XR can be decocked easily. It is arguably the safest and easiest crossbow to decock without a crank system.

• Axle-to-Axle, Cocked: 9.1″
• Axle-to-Axle, Uncocked: 12 1/2″
• Power Stroke: 14 5/8″
• Length: 30 1/2″
• Weight: 7.6 lbs
• Speed: 410 fps
• MSRP: $1,899
• missioncrossbows.com

Mathews V3 27

It’s not often you find a pair of flagship bows, especially with different axle-to-axle lengths, that mirror each other in almost every way. Mathews’ V3 27 and 31 models, however, are the exception to this rule. Both have a brace height of 6 inches and an IBO speed rating of 342 fps. The main difference is the length between the axles. The V3 27 is the company’s most compact bow to date. It, like the V3 31, makes use of Mathews’ Crosscentric cam to permit easy draw-length and draw-weight changes, the new Nano 740 damping system, and redesigned limbs and limb cups to reduce weight.

• Axle-to-Axle: 27″
• Brace Height: 6″
• Let-Off: 80, 85%
• Draw Weight: 60, 65, 70, 75 lbs
• Draw Length: 25 to 29.5″
• Weight: 4.29 lbs
• Speed: 342 fps
• MSRP: $1,199
• mathewsinc.com

Hoyt Carbon RX-5

Hoyt heralds its latest carbon incarnation, the RX-5, as its best carbon model to date. The bow is fitted with an all-new HBX Cam that promises smoothness and speed, plus redesigned Limb Shox to minimize vibration and noise. Measuring 30 inches between the axles and having a 6 1/4-inch brace height, the RX-5 can hit speeds up to 342 fps. Other notable features of this 4.4-pound compound include the Integrate Rest Mount, which puts QAD’s Integrate MX drop-away in line with the riser, and a lower stabilizer position. The bow is also offered in an Ultra model with a 34-inch axle-to-axle length and 7-inch brace height.

• Axle-to-Axle: 30″
• Brace Height: 6 1/4″
• Let-Off: 80, 85%
• Draw Weight: 30 to 80 lbs
• Draw Length: 25 to 30″
• Weight: 4.4 lbs
• Speed: 342 fps
• MSRP: $1,699
• hoyt.com

Bowtech Solution SD

Optimized for bowhunters with draw lengths of 23 1/2 to 28 1/2 inches, the new Solution SD offers speed and performance in a short-draw compound. Bowtech reports arrow speeds up to 323 fps, and the company builds the Solution SD with its DeadLock Cam System. The Deadlock cams can be moved left or right on the axles by just turning a screw for easy tuning to achieve perfect arrow flight. Deadlock cable containment reduces torque, and Orbit dampeners can be strategically placed on the riser to offset accessory weight while minimizing vibration.

• Axle-to-Axle: 30″
• Brace Height: 7″
• Let-Off: 85, 87%
• Draw Weight: 50 to 70 lbs
• Draw Length: 23 1/2 to 28 1/2″
• Weight: 3.9 lbs
• Speed: 323 fps
• MSRP: $1,199
• bowtecharchery.com

If you’re the type of waterfowler who feeds your family by hunting 60 days per year, you probably already know by now that HEVI-Shot tungsten may not be the stuff for you because it’s not cheap. You can get 5 orders of Peking duck down at the local Chinese buffet for less. It’s expensive because there are very few tungsten mines in the world, and this ultra-dense metal is a commodity coveted for making everything from competitive darts to turbine blades and rocket nozzles. But the fact is it’s simply superior to steel, and even a fair margin better than lead bird shot. How?

Imagine a tennis ball and a baseball both thrown 90mph by Pedro Martinez. Which one would you rather get beaned with? The tennis ball, of course, because it’s much less dense and results in much less energy when it hits you. I.e. it won’t hurt as much. The same laws of physics apply to shotgun pellets.

Heavy Set

HEVI-Shot’s XII load uses tungsten pellets that measure 12 g/cc (grams per cubic centimeter). Compare that to steel at 7.8 g/cc, then imagine a No. 4 HEVI-Shot pellet and a steel pellet each going 1400 fps. The HEVI-Shot load is like a swarm of our aforementioned baseballs speeding toward that duck, whereas the steel is like the tennis balls. But most of us know this already.

The big advantage of tungsten, however, is that because it’s denser than steel (it’s also denser than lead, Bismuth, and most other materials) the shooter can choose a shot size two to three sizes smaller than comparable steel load and still maintain the same downrange energies. So by choosing a HEVI-Shot No. 4 pellets for geese over No. 1 steel load, for example, shooters are afforded many more pellets per load for denser patterns and more wound channels on the bird. Fact is, denser pellets penetrate deeper and kill quicker.

Tungsten Tested

When I tested HEVI-Shot’s new HEVI-XII shell (3”, 1 1/4-oz. No. 4s) here’s what I found: The load contained an average of 166 pellets that together averaged 583 grains, or 1.33 ounces per payload. (That’s more than advertised.) This payload is touted to travel at 1,450 fps, which equals 2,549 ft.-lbs. energy at the muzzle. Although my actual results were very similar, the inputs differed slightly. From my 28-inch barrel I recorded a mean velocity of 1401, that, when multiplied by a payload mass average of 1.33 ozs, equals 2,541 ft.-lbs. But it’s when the individual pellet energies are compared that the heavier tungsten pellets shine like diamonds in a sea of decoy weights: Consider that the average No. 4 HEVI-XII pellet weighs 3.6 grains; when going 1400 fps it results in 16 ft.-lbs. per pellet! Compare that to a 2.4-grain steel pellet going 1,400 fps for 10 ft.-lbs energy and you can understand where your money’s going.

However, this is where HEVI-Shot also gets a little shaky: I had to use a pellet weight average because, due to the process HEVI-Shot uses to make its tungsten shot, the pellets aren’t uniform. A payload of No. 4 shot contains pellets that individually weigh anywhere from 3.4 grains to 6.6. This leads to my second criticism of HEVI-Shot: It is not known for perfectly uniform patterns, which I suspect is a by-product of the varietal shape and weights of the pellets.

Results from my patterning board bore this out. I achieved best results from a modified choke tube. I must add this observation though: Regardless of how non-uniform the patterns look to my eye, ducks don’t seem to mind. All the HEVI-Shot I’ve used in the past have performed admirably on live game.

As for recoil, it’s academic. A 1¼ ounce payload of steel going 1400 compared to a 1¼-ounce payload of tungsten hurts equally bad by producing around 40 ft.-lbs. free recoil energy from a 7.5-lb. shotgun.

Packed to Perform

HEVI-Shot utilizes a healthy load of flaxseed to serve as buffer from the ultra-hard shot that can ding barrels and choke tubes if the choke is too tight or the load is not properly buffered. While I can’t be sure of flaxseed’s performance as a buffer compared to plastics and silicones used in other loads, frankly I’d rather be shooting natural flax seed in my lakes and fields over plastic. Speaking of plastic, HEVI-XII employs a rather simple, 4-petal, 50-grain plastic wad. The load is available in 12-gauge, 20-gauge and, interestingly, 28-gauge in size 2 (12-gauge only) 4 and 6.

HEVI-Shot’s new XII product differs from past HEVI-Shot tungsten shells mainly in that it is packaged in boxes of 25. At around $50 for a box, certainly they cost more than the 10-round boxes, but packaged as such they cost less per shell. Look, I’ve killed my share of ducks, but I also know that regardless of what shell I’m using, sometimes birds refuse to die. More times than I care to admit I’ll empty my gun at a bird only to wing it before it skims down 60 yards out, where I’ll have to shoot it 5 more times on the water. Perhaps you’re better than me, but boxes of 10 just don’t cut it.

In sum, HEVI-Shot’s new HEVI-XII load is far superior to nearly all duck loads that utilize less dense material. If you choose it, you’ll get the added advantage of choosing smaller shot sizes for denser patterns whose individual pellets hit hard. Trust me, you’ll be able to see that difference in the field. You’ll also feel it in your wallet, but that’s just it. New HEVI-XII is expensive to be sure, but in 25-round boxes it’s not as bad as it used to be. What waterfowler can’t appreciate that?

As some of you may remember, I did the majority of the electrical work in the tiny house. I had a professional help me initially set up the breaker box, as well as wire in the tankless water heater. But I did the rest of the work.

I’ve been having problems recently with one of the GFCI outlets tripping.

Outside the tiny house are two pine trees. I have lights strung across them that are on a timer, so they turn on at dusk every evening. It’s quite delightful.

The timer is connected to an extension cord that has room for three plugs in it. It’s made for outdoors, for plugging in Christmas tree lights. The extension cord is plugged into the troublesome GFCI.

When I took the box holding the GFCI apart, I did see some water damage. So I figured the outlet had been exposed to water and had possibly shorted out. I replaced it with a new outlet.

However, I couldn’t get the circuit to work.

So I started checking everything else.

Guess what I found in one of the plug holes of the extension cord?

Half of a crispy fried slug.

No wonder that GFCI outlet had been tripping! So I think I found the initial cause of my problems. Hadn’t figured out everything though.

I have six outlets on that circuit/fuse. When I flipped the power on, the first outlet still showed as live, with power running through it. (I have a voltage detector for outlets.) The second outlet did not have any power running through it.

Hmmmm.

So I took that outlet apart.

Because there are six outlets, I have wires coming in as well as going out of the outlet (line and load). This also means two ground wires. But there’s only the one green ground screw on an outlet. And it’s a pain in the ass to try to connect both wires to the single green ground screw.

Instead, I “pigtail” the ground wires together, generally using a wire nut. Basically, I connect the line and the load wires together with a third short wire, called the pigtail wire. You use an electric wing nut to twist the three wires together. Then you connect the singular pigtail wire to the green ground screw on the outlet.

Seemed that current had run up the ground wire from the faulty GFCI outlet and fried the pigtail wire in the wing nut. This is a good thing. Much better to fry that then to fry the outlet. Or the house.

So I replaced the pigtail wire and wing nut, reconnected the outlet, and ta dah! The circuit works and I have power again on that side of the tiny house.

I have also now covered up the extra plug holes on the extension cord with duct tape. No more crispy fried slug!

Electrical work always takes longer than I think it will. But I’m quite pleased that I can do it and figure this stuff out.

What have you done recently that was complicated, but worth the effort?

The .308 Winchester (.308 Win) and 5.56 NATO rounds are two of the most popular centerfire rifle cartridges in the United States and across North America. Both cartridges are battle-proven and currently in service with the U.S. Military and its NATO allies.

The 308 vs 556 debate has been raging between civilian marksman, law enforcement, and military shooters for well over 60 years and is akin to a clash of heavyweight titans nothing short of Ali vs Frasier.

Sufficed to say, it is unlikely that we will be able to crown a victor in the context of this article.

However, get ready for an absolute knock-down, drag-out, slugfest between two of the most popular and iconic cartridges in shooting!

A Quick Note on Nomenclature

In the context of this article, .308 Winchester (308 Win) and 7.62x51mm NATO (762 NATO) will be used interchangeably. The same can be said for .223 Remington (223 Rem) and 5.56x45mm NATO (556 NATO).

However, please understand that rifles chambered in 308 and 223 are different than those chambered in their NATO spec equivalents, 762 and 556, respectively.

It’s important to note that NATO spec ammunition should ONLY be fired from rifles chambered to NATO specifications.

You should experience zero issues shooting .223 Rem ammo in your 5.56 rifle, but not vice versa. The same is true for .308 in a 7.62 rifle. This is due to chamber pressure differences between the .223 vs 5.56 and .308 vs 7.62 rounds.

Bottom line: Know what round your rifle is chambered in (it’s typically engraved on the barrel or receiver of your rifle).

What is .308 Win?

Following the end of the Korean War, the U.S. Military started developing a replacement for the storied M1 Garand. Although the M1 Garand had served the U.S. Armed Forces valiantly through World War II and Korea, the military wanted a more modern service rifle with select-fire capability and detachable magazines similar to the Stg-44 and AK-47.

The M1 Garand was chambered in the 30-06 Springfield cartridge, 7.62x63mm NATO designation, a round that has been credited with taking down every North American large game animal, including the great bears.

With advancements in rifle powder technology and case design in the 1950s, the new 7.62x51mm NATO rifle round was able to achieve neatly identical ballistic performance as the 30-06 Springfield with a shorter cartridge case length and lower overall weight.

The US Army officially adopted the 7.62x51mm NATO round and the new M14 battle rifle in 1958. The M14 featured a 20-round detachable magazine and select fire capability (semi-auto and full auto).

The M14 saw its first action in the Vietnam War before being quickly being replaced by the M16 in 1964.

762 has also been utilized in multiple machine guns fielded by the U.S. Military, including the M60, M240B, and GAU-17/A minigun.

Seeing the potential of the 762 in the civilian market, Winchester was quick to adapt the new rifle round to its Model 70 bolt action rifle. The civilian version of the 7.62 was named the .308 Winchester.

Other major firearms manufacturers followed suit and the 308 Winchester quickly became available in multiple bolt action, pump, and semi-automatic rifle platforms.

Other popular 308 Winchester bolt action rifles include:

• Savage 11/110
• Remington 700
• Ruger M77 Hawkeye
• Browning X-Bolt
• Weatherby Vanguard

The 308 Winchester has since become the most popular big game hunting round in the world with bullet weights typically ranging between 120 to 180 grains.

With astounding accuracy, stopping power, and an effective range out to 1,000 yards (with appropriate loadings), the 308 is a staple in deer hunting camps and in marksmanship competitions across the globe.

What is 5.56 NATO?

The 5.56x45mm NATO cartridge was derived from the .223 Remington (which itself descended from the .222 Remington). Development of the 223 Rem rifle round began in 1957 and the final design was submitted by Remington Arms to the Sporting Arms and Ammunition Manufacturers’ Institute (SAAMI) in 1962.

The development of the 223 Remington cartridge was a joint operation organized by the U.S. Continental Army Command between Fairchild Industries, Remington Arms, and Eugene Stoner of Armalite.

Eugene Stone was the primary inventor of the AR-10 rifle (chambered in 7.62), which he was invited to scale down to accommodate the new .223 Rem cartridge.

The resulting rifle was the AR-15, which has become the most popular sporting rifle design in the United States. The military adopted a select-fire version of the AR-15, designating it the M16 in 1964.

FN Herstal developed the 5.56x45mm round beginning in 1970 using the 223 as a parent case. The 5.56 and .223 cases are identical in case dimensions.

However, the primary difference between the two cartridges is the maximum pressure allowance for the rifle rounds.

SAAMI specifications for the .223 Rem indicate that a maximum allowable chamber pressure of 55,000 psi. However, the 5.56 case was designed to handle pressures up to around 61,000 psi.

This is why you should NEVER fire 5.56 from a firearm chambered in .223 Rem, as the chamber a rifle chambered in 223 Remington is not rated to handle the pressure of a 5.56 round.

The 223 was quickly adopted to both AR platform and bolt action rifles from all major firearm manufacturers. Its low recoil impulse and flatter trajectory makes it ideal for marksmanship trials and varmint hunters.

As the .223 Remington ammo can be purchased in a variety of bullet weights for a variety of different applications, but the most common bullet weights that you’ll find in most all gun shops and sporting goods stores are 55, 62, and 69 grain.

.308 Win vs 5.56 NATO – The Contest Begins

Now that you have a clearer understanding of where each round came from, it’s time to ring the bell and let these two heavyweight sluggers throw hands! We’ve got 8 rounds (categories) for these two NATO pugilists to contend in.

Let’s get it on!

Round #1 – Recoil

Winner – 5.56 NATO

The 223 and 556 rounds were developed in response to the military’s need for a lower recoil battle rifle/carbine.

Although the 308 Winchester cartridge is a capable rifle round, it has almost double the case capacity and fires much heavier bullets. All of this adds up to considerably more felt recoil when shooting a 308.

The lower recoil of the 556 allows for higher accuracy and faster follow-up shots when engaging targets in semi-automatic or fully automatic fire.

Round #2 – Weight

Winner – 5.56 NATO

This is perhaps one of the biggest advantages of the 223 over the 308. The 308 Winchester is considerably heavier than its 223 Remington counterpart and soldiers can carry considerably more 223 into battle.

This was one of the main reasons for the development of the 556. Assuming a 22-pound ammo loadout, a soldier can carry approximately 660 rounds of 223 vs only 280 rounds of 308.

Round #3 – Effective Range

Winner – 7.62 NATO

7.62 was developed to have outstanding accuracy at longer ranges. Standard 308 Win loadings can still be combat effective out to 1,000 yards.

By comparison, the 5.56 is typically only considered effective out to about 500 yards.

When shooting out past 500 yards, wind drift becomes a major issue. With a heavier bullet, the 308 is going to be less affected by wind conditions than the lighter weight 5.56 rifle round.

Military and Law Enforcement snipers have long favored the more powerful 308 Winchester round for its accuracy and effective range.

Round #4 – Barrier Penetration

Winner – 7.62 NATO

Barrier penetration, or lack thereof, has been one of the biggest critiques of the 5.56 since its inception.

The 223 is faster but lighter in weight, and is therefore much more susceptible to deflection and tumbling when it encounters an obstacle when compared to the much heavier 308.

This was a major issue during the Vietnam War and why many veterans of that war are somewhat sour on the M16 rifle.

The newer 5.56 round has somewhat better barrier penetration when compared to the initial design of the 223 Rem, however neither compares to the raw penetrating power of a 147 grain bullet fired from a 308 Winchester chambered rifle.

Round #5 – Self Defense

Winner – 5.56 NATO by a tiny margin

Both the 5.56 and the 7.62 are going to be extremely effective during a self-defense situation.

Both cartridges are combat-proven and lethal within self-defense ranges.

The only caveat is that the 308 will be more prone to over penetration in a home defense situation, which is why I have to give a slight edge to 5.56.

Round #6 – Accuracy

Winner – Wash

Both the 308 and 223 are extremely accurate and reliable. Under 500 yards it is unlikely a shooter will be able to detect any noticeable difference in accuracy between the two rounds.

Round #7 – Stopping Power

Winner – 7.62 NATO

With its heavier bullet, the 762 has almost double the energy (ft-lb) at the muzzle when compared to the 5.56 round. We will cover more of the ballistic data below, however there’s no denying the sheer power and force of the 308 Winchester, which is why it is the ideal choice for big game hunting as well.

Round #8 – Reloading

Winner – Wash

Both the 223 Remington and the 308 Winchester are a dream to reload.

With a plethora of suitable powders, different bullets to choose from, and plenty of brass cartridges available on the secondary market, it makes reloading 223 and 308 a fun and enjoyable experience.

The average hand loader can easily produce match-grade ammo that is tailored to their rifle without the cost of purchasing match ammunition.

Crowning a Champion in the 308 vs 556 Title Fight

Honestly, this one is simply too close to call and we’re going to have to go to the judge’s scorecards to make a final determination.

But that judge isn’t me, it’s YOU!

The real difference between these two calibers is what your intended purpose is.

Looking to take down North American large game starting at deer and going up thorough Elk? Then look no further to the 308 Winchester with a box of hunting soft points to get the job done!

Maybe you’re looking to get into long range shooting out past 500 yards? 7.62 get’s the nod here as well with some high quality match grade full metal jacket (FMJ) ammo.

Maybe you’ve got a lot of varmints around your ranch and you need something light weight with fast follow up shots? Then an AR-15 or bolt action 223 Remington rifle will serve you well harvesting small game as your hunting rifle of choice.

Or perhaps you just want to get out to the range and have a good time plinking or target shooting with some cheap FMJ ammo? 5.56 takes this tile as well.

And then, of course, maybe you just want to enjoy your 2nd Amendment Rights and enjoy the freedoms our Forefather’s fought for? Then get both and see the benefits and limitations of both 223 and 308.

No matter which caliber you chose as the winner of this heavyweight bout, pick something that you enjoy shooting and get out to the range and see how tight you can make those 100-yard groupings!

And remember, buying in bulk is always smart, make sure to check out our stock of bulk 308 ammo and 5.56 bulk ammo.

308 vs 5.56 Ballistics

For all my readers who love the numbers, we have made an outstanding ballistics table comparing both .308 and 5.56.

We’ve compared velocity in feet per second (FPS), energy in foot-pounds (ft-lb), and bullet drop at various combat yardages to help you pick the best caliber for your intended purpose.

308 Winchester Ballistics: Chart of Average 308 Winchester Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.

5.56x45mm Ballistics: Chart of Average 5.56x45mm Ballistics

Note: This information comes from the manufacturer and is for informational purposes only. The actual ballistics obtained with your firearm can vary considerably from the advertised ballistics. Also, ballistics can vary from lot to lot with the same brand and type load.