A: Tail docking of some breeds may be based on a belief that their non-working members experience risks similar to working dogs; more commonly, however, it is to conform to a distinctive breed appearance or standard. Survey data indicate that preventive tail docking of pet dogs is unnecessary.18,21 Therefore tail docking of non-working dogs, even if their breed was originally developed for working purposes, is considered a cosmetic procedure unless evidence exists to the contrary. In countries such as the United Kingdom where tail docking is legally prohibited (with a few exemptions) the breed standards of traditionally docked breeds have been amended.22

Q: Do dogs need to have tails?

A: It is natural for most dogs to have tails based upon their descent from a tailed species. However there is no strong evidence that naturally bobbed or surgically docked dogs are physically or psychologically disadvantaged. There is some early, but inconclusive, data that raises questions as to whether docking impairs communication with other dogs23 or may increase the risk of developing incontinence.24

Q: Is tail docking painful?

A: Tail docking is painful.25 The intensity or duration of the pain under ideal or typical circumstances is difficult to quantify. Painful procedures conducted in the neonatal period when the nervous system is vulnerable can result in negative long-term changes which affect how pain is processed and perceived later in life.26,27

Q: Why does AVMA policy oppose cosmetic tail docking?

A: The essential question is not “How harmful is the procedure?”, but rather “Is there sufficient justification for performing it?” Performing a surgical procedure for cosmetic purposes (i.e., for the sake of appearance) implies the procedure is not medically indicated. Because dogs have not been shown to derive self-esteem or pride in appearance from having their tails docked (common reasons for performing cosmetic procedures on people), there is no obvious benefit to our patients in performing this procedure. The only benefit that appears to be derived from cosmetic tail docking of dogs is the owner’s impression of a pleasing appearance. In the opinion of the AVMA, this is insufficient justification for performing a surgical procedure.

Q: What forms of tail removal would not be considered cosmetic?

A: The naturally bobbed animal is not considered “docked.” Bobbed genetics exist in many pedigreed breeds (e.g., Old English Sheepdog, Australian Shepherd17) and have been introduced into others (e.g., Boxer28). Some breeders, both historically and currently, would prefer problematic conformation to be corrected via breeding alone.

Removal of a dog’s tail for medical reasons is not referred to as “docking.” The most common reason for amputation or partial amputation of a dog’s tail is traumatic injury where repair of the entire tail is not possible or advisable. Amputation may also occur in the case of tail deformities that negatively impact a dog’s function or increase risk of injury. An argument might be made for removal of the tail of a dog on the basis of repeated prior injury.

Precautionary removal of the tail of a young puppy needs to be based on compelling evidence that the animal is at high risk of tail trauma due to congenital defect, breed and/or planned working activity. However, such a justification must be supported by evidence such as empirical data or impartial expert opinion based on extensive, directly relevant experience.

REFERENCES

1. Podberscek AL, Paul AS, Serpell J. Companion Animals and Us: Exploring the Relationships Between People and Pets. Cambridge University Press, 2000; 307. 2. Fleming. The wanton mutilation of animals. The Nineteenth Century, a Monthly Report, 1895;37:440. 3. Drury WD. British Dogs, Their Points, Selection, and Show Preparation. L.U. Gill: London. 1903. p. 165 4. Hallock C. The Sportsman’s Gazetteer and General Guide. Forest and Stream: New York. 1877. p. 456. 5. Shields G. The American Book of the Dog. Rand, McNally: Chicago. 1891 6. almer, RM. All about Airedales: A Book of General Information Valuable to Dog Lovers and Owners, Breeders and Fanciers, Illustrated from Selected Photographs of Noted Dogs and Rare Scenes. The Airedale Terrier Reviewed. 3-A Publishing Co.: Seattle. 1916; 53. 7. Coren, S. How Dogs Think: Understanding the Canine Mind. Simon and Schuster, 2004; 106 8. Youatt W, Lewis EJ. The Dog. Leavitt and Allen, 1857 Available at: http://books.google.com/books?id=wxkPAAAAYAAJ Accessed December 15, 2008. 9. Bennett PC, Perini E. Tail docking in dogs: can attitude change be achieved? Aust Vet J 2003;81:277-82. 10. Sonntag, Q. Cosmetic tail docking. Vet News 2004;Feb:4-5. 11. Noonan GJ, Rand JS, Blackshaw JK, et al. Tail docking in dogs: a sample of attitudes of veterinarians and dog breeders in Queensland. Aust Vet J 1996;73:86-88. 12. Lytton, N. Toy Dogs and Their Ancestors: Including the History and Management of Toy Spaniels, Pekingese, Japanese and Pomeranians. Duckworth & Co: London. 1911; 91. 13. Moissac, JE. The fight against cosmetic surgery. Canadian Veterinary Journal 2009;50:11231124. 14. Australian Veterinary Association: Surgical alteration to the natural state of animals: http://www.ava.com.au/node/1085 accessed January 31, 2013 14. RCVS Guide to professional Conduct: http://www.rcvs.org.uk/advice-and-guidance/guide-to-professional-conduc… accessed January 31 2013. 16. Lee RB. A History and Description of the Modern Dogs of Great Britain and Ireland. H. Cox: London. 1897. p. 220-221. 17. Sasson-Brickson G. The bobtail trait in Australian shepherds – part I: a historical perspective and docking Regulations in various countries. Aussie Times 2005;March-April 18. Diesel G, Pfeiffer D, Crispin S, et al. Risk factors for tail injuries in dogs in Great Britain. Vet Rec 2010;166:812-817. 19. Strejffert G. Tail injuries of shorthaired German point dogs born in Sweden 1989, 1992 http://www.cdb.org/countries/sweden.htm Accessed June 28, 2010 20. Milne, E. The Truth about Cats and Dogs. Book Guild Publishing, 2007; 118. 21. Darke PG, Thrusfield MV, Aitken CG. Association between tail injuries and docking in dogs. Vet Rec 1985;116:409 22. Kennel Club: Breed Standard tail clauses – traditionally docked breeds: http://www.thekennelclub.org.uk/cgi-bin/item.cgi?id=1359 Accessed January 31st 2013 23. Leaver, SDA, Reimchen TE. Behavioural responses of Canis Familiaris to different tail lengths of a remotely-controlled life-size dog replica. Behaviour 2008;145:377-390. 24. Thrusfield P, Holt M. Association in bitches between breed, size, neutering and docking, and acquired urinary incontinence due to incompetence of the urethral sphincter mechanism. Vet Rec 1993;133:177-180. 25. Noonan G, Rand J, Blackshaw J, et al. Behavioural observations of puppies undergoing tail docking. Appl Anim Behav Sci 1996;4: 335-342. 26. LaPrarie JL, Murphy AZ. Long Term Impact of Neonatal Injury in Male and Female Rats: Sex Differences, Mechanisms and Clinical Implications. Frontiers in Neuroendocrinology 2010;31:193-202. 27. Vega-Avelaira D, McKelvy R, Hathway G et al. The emergence of adolescent onset pain hypersensitivity following neonatal nerve injury. Molecular Pain 2012;8:30. Accessible online at: http://www.molecularpain.com/content/8/1/30 28. Haworth K, Putt W, Cattanach B et al. Canine homolog of the T-box transcription factor T; failure of the protein to bind to its DNA target leads to a short-tail phenotype. Mammalian Genome 2001;12:212-218.

This information has been prepared as a service by the American Veterinary Medical Association. Redistribution is acceptable, but the document’s original content and format must be maintained, and its source must be prominently identified.

In my opinion, a big mule deer buck is one of the hardest animals on earth to kill with a bow. They don’t have regular patterns like a whitetail; their eyes, ears and nose are superb. They usually hang with a group of other bachelor bucks, and together they employ a strategic method of bedding with somebody facing in every direction. They almost never drink in the daylight, rendering them all but impossible to ambush over water. And they don’t like to be disturbed: bump them once, and they’ll move to a different location or go nocturnal.

Muley bucks do have a couple weaknesses though: food and romance. And in some specific locations they like to bed in big, wide-open territory. That can put them in a stalk-able position. Let’s look at those three chinks in a buck’s armor and see if we can put an arrow through one of them.

Spot-and-StalkProbably the most respected method of hunting in the West, spotting and stalking can be exciting, adrenaline-ridden and effective. The above-timberline habitat of Colorado or Nevada and the broken high-plains badlands of Wyoming or the Dakota’s can be ideal for spotting and stalking big muley bucks with stick and string.

But spot-and-stalk methods can also be frustrating, physically extreme and futile. For instance, the mule deer where I live never bed in open stalk-able areas. They climb atop mesas and bed in thick pinyon/juniper forests. It’s impossible to spot them, and just as hard to stalk them.

To kill a big spot-and-stalk buck, you’ll first need to spot him, then put him to bed, and then stalk close enough for a shot. Let’s look at the process in detail.

1. Spot Climb a high vantage point and let your binoculars do the walking. You’ll be glassing up to a couple miles distant, so use premium optics. Once you spot bucks, study them through a spotting scope to determine if there’s a shooter buck amongst the group. Try to get to know the bucks while you watch them: How many are there? What are their habits? What is their pecking order? There’s always one schizophrenic buck in the gang; figure out who he is and avoid him. Most of all, figure out how the big boys move in relation to the group: Do they like to bed above, below, in the middle or to the side? The answers to these questions will dictate whether a buck is killable or not.

2. Put Your Buck to Bed. Early-season bucks usually feed for a few minutes up to several hours before heading to their morning beds. Spot them now, but don’t make a move. Watch as they work their way to a bedding area and lie down. You need to stay put a little longer though; most of the time a buck will bed—often, but not always, in the sun—for about 45 minutes to an hour, and then he’ll get up and move to a different bed in the shade. That’s when you make your move. Watch him for 15 minutes or so to be sure he’s settled in, and then go. You’ll have roughly three to five hours before he gets up to relieve himself and eat a midday snack.

3. Stalk in Close. While you’re waiting for the buck to settle in for the day, you need to strategize your approach. Figure out what the wind is doing at the buck’s location. Plan an approach route, and locate landmarks to keep you on track. Everything looks different when you’re on location than it does from a distance, so study it well, and then make your move. Ditch your shoes and pack while you close the last 100 yards, sneaking in on just your socks.

If you’ve planned and executed successfully, you’ll either be able to arrow the buck in his bed or set up downwind of the buck. Get comfortable and stay ready—ideally you should be able to see at least his antler tips. It may be several hours until he gets up. When you see him swivel his head a couple times, get ready. His antlers will swoop down and forward as he begins to get up—that’s when you draw your bow. You’ll have a few seconds to squeeze off the shot before he busts you and heads for the next county.

Hunt the RutWhen a big muley buck has romance on his mind he disregards all else, becoming very vulnerable. It’s the reason that there are almost no public land rifle hunts during the rut, and precious few archery hunts. Big bucks forget all their hard-earned survival tactics, charge around during all hours of the day and will look right at you and then go back to chasing tail. Peak rut in most locals happens in late November and early December, and a little research can turn up hunting seasons in various states. It’s a great time to hunt big muley bucks with a bow. Here’s what to do:

1. Shadow Doe Families. Mule deer bucks travel from doe family to doe family, looking for a group that’s coming into estrous. When he finds one, he’ll stay with them until they’re serviced (usually several days), then he’ll hit the road in search of another party. Your best tactic right now is to find does—lots of them—then stand by for a big boy to show up. Sneak in and set up downwind of the group and wait until he offers a shot.

2. Set Up on Travel Routes. As mentioned above, big bucks move a lot during the rut. I once watched a big rutty buck cover over a mile in less than fifteen minutes, checking three families of does along the way. Find a ridge-top saddle, pinch-point or natural funnel and set up downwind of it, much like you’d set up to hunt whitetail. If you’ve got doe groups on both sides of your position, you’re golden. Wait all day, especially if the weather is cool and/or overcast.

3. Rattle. Muleys don’t rattle up as readily as whitetails do, but if the timing is right, they’ll come in. Try getting within 150 yards downwind of a big buck and his does, and make like a couple rival bucks battling it out. You can also rattle to traveling bucks, giving the impression of two bucks fighting over hot does—you just might get lucky.

AmbushSuccessfully bushwhacking a big muley buck is all but impossible under ordinary circumstances. They’re just too nomadic. I’ve sat on a ridge top and watched the same bachelor bucks enter a 90-acre alfalfa field ten different ways in ten different days. That said, in my home turf, spot-and-stalk methods are next to impossible, and the rut happens months after the bowhunt is over, so the big bucks I’ve killed with a bow have all been ambushed. Here’s how to make it happen.

1. Bottlenecks. Though rare in good muley habitats, bottlenecks do exist. Case-in-point: one meadow I sometimes watch is bordered by a creek and has a sandstone point jutting alongside. The deer’s favorite bedding area is opposite that creek and point. The only way for them to get there is across the creek, past a huge ponderosa pine, and around the point. Sit there long enough and you’ll kill a buck. Another good place might be in a narrow ridge-top saddle between feeding and bedding areas. Just remember, mule deer go where the wind blows them, so the situation and terrain must be significant to create an effective ambush.

2. Attractants. Sometimes the only way to get within archery range of a mule deer buck is to hunt over something he wants pretty badly, such as a good acorn patch, a mineral lick or an apple tree near an old homestead. Those spots are few and hard to find, but if you locate one, you might see an old warrior compromise his safety for a nibble of his favorite treat. That’ll give you a chance to turn him into your favorite venison treat.

3. Decoy. I’ve seen it work one time; the biggest buck any of my clients ever killed came to a decoy. He fed in a large meadow each night, leaving well before dawn each day. My brother was guiding, and just couldn’t get the hunter and the buck within the same zip code. Then one day he had a flash of brilliance and set our 3-D buck target in the meadow near the client’s blind. That old savvy buck saw the decoy from clear across the meadow and came to investigate. He ended up gross scoring 196 and some change. I’m not saying a decoy will work every time, or even often. But it worked on the biggest bow-killed buck I’ve seen on the ground.

Still-HuntingStill-hunting deserves an honorable mention in this article, especially if you’re simply hunting any buck. Slipping your way very slowly through good deer habitat can provide a fun way to spend your midday, teach you a lot about your hunting area and even offer a shot opportunity. Just be sure to keep the wind in your face and move slowly as cold molasses, picking cover apart with your binocular. “One step, two looks” is a good mantra. Spot a buck, and your adventure morphs into a spot-and-stalk event.

It’s been almost two years since Forrest Fenn’s riddle was solved, and the $2 million worth of treasure he’d buried was found. Until recently, the only thing we knew about its location was that it was in Wyoming. Until now.

A recent article on Outside Online has revealed that the treasure was buried in ‘an iconic American landmark’ in Yellowstone National Park. Park Rangers are aware of the exact location but want to keep it a secret. They’re concerned that should the exact location be revealed, it would become swamped by tourists, damaging the fragile landscape. However, an ongoing lawsuit against Fenn (who passed away in September 2020) may result in that location being revealed.

Author Forrest Fenn confirmed in a blog post in July 2020 that his chest filled with $2 million worth of treasure was found in Wyoming.

Many of the searchers for my treasure had solves that seemed to neatly fit the clues in my poem. Then when the finder found and retrieved the treasure, other searchers wondered how close they had been to the right spot. Because I promised the finder I would not reveal who found it or where, I have remained mostly silent.

However, the finder understands how important some closure is for many searchers, so today he agreed that we should reveal that the treasure was found in Wyoming. Until he found the treasure, the treasure had not moved in the 10 years since I left it there on the ground, and walked away.

Perhaps today’s announcement will bring some closure to those whose solves were in New Mexico, Colorado, or Montana.

To all of those who did not find the treasure, we hope that you got some enjoyment from the chase. f

For a decade, the $2-million treasure chest sat undiscovered in the Rocky Mountains, with the only man who knew where it was leaving clues to its whereabouts, promising whoever found it could keep it. At least four died in its pursuit, and many sacrificed jobs and their livelihoods. Finally, some lucky sleuth found it. But that didn’t stop the disbelievers.

As is the case with many mysteries, there were plenty of people calling it a hoax, claiming conspiracy theories and disbelieving it even existed. But Forrest Fenn, the man behind the quest, put those theories to rest by releasing pictures of the discovered treasure.

The 89-year-old art and antiquities collector posted three pictures of the treasure on dalneitzel.com, a fan blog dedicated to the treasure hunt. While some remained skeptical, most of the comments on the site congratulated the finder and thanked Fenn for the experience.

It all started when art dealer and former air force pilot, Forrest Fenn, revealed in his self-published 2010 novel, “The Thrill of the Chase”, that he had buried a lockbox full of about 2 million dollars worth of gold, gems, and artifacts. The clues to the treasure’s whereabouts were hidden in a 24 verse poem that is included in the memoir. Many people have quit their jobs and spent their life savings in the quest to find the buried treasure.

THE TREASURE HAS BEEN FOUND

It was under a canopy of stars in the lush, forested vegetation of the Rocky Mountains, and had not moved from the spot where I hid it more than 10 years ago. I do not know the person who found it, but the poem in my book led him to the precise spot.

I congratulate the thousands of people who participated in the search and hope they will continue to be drawn by the promise of other discoveries.

So the search is over. Look for more information and photos in the coming days.

– Forrest Fenn, June 6th 2020

Mr. Fenn stated that the Treasure was located in the 1,000-mile stretch of the Rocky Mountains from New Mexico to the Canadian border and at least 5,000 feet above sea level, in an area that an 80-year-old would not have trouble accessing. Fenn estimates that over 100,000 people have attempted the search for his treasure and originally said that he hoped the hunt would push more people outside to enjoy the wilderness. Asked how he felt now that the treasure has been found, Fenn said: “I don’t know, I feel halfway kind of glad, halfway kind of sad because the chase is over.”

• Related: Police Warn of ‘Deadly Pursuit’ as 2 Have Died in 2 Years Searching for Buried Treasure in Rocky Mountains

Within days of the treasure being found, three separate lawsuits were filed by people claiming they solved the puzzle first, with one lady claiming that the man who got to it first “stole her solve”.

• Related: Man Who Found Forrest Fenn’s Treasure May Have to Fight For it as 3 Others Claim They Solved Puzzle First

In March 2020, two Coloradan snowmobilers were searching for Forrest Fenn’s elusive treasure when they became stranded, and one died in a Utah park. In June 2017, New Mexico authorities found the body of Paris Wallace, a Colorado Pastor who had joined the hunt. A year before Randy Bilyeu disappeared while searching for the treasure, his remains were found in the Rio Grande seven months later.

Ask any five deer hunters what the best 308 ammo is for deer and you’ll likely get five different answers. The truth is, there are a lot of excellent deer hunting factory loads for 308 Winchester (308 Win for short) as the round is flat shooting, has amazing stopping power, and you have a wide variety of different bullet profiles to choose from.

However, if you want to ensure that you’re baking Bambi’s backstraps at deer camp instead of tracking blood trails for hours on end…Then you’ve found the right article!

Below you’ll find our top six favorite 308 Win deer hunting loads on the market for 2024. Although this is not a comprehensive list, these selections have proven time and time again to put the venison on your plate instead of bounding into the brush.

If you simply can’t wait, our favorite deer hunting round is Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point. However, if you want the full list keep on scrolling or if you want to understand what makes for an amazing deer hunting cartridge, then check out our Buyer’s Guide HERE.

Quick Administrative Note: I know you’re ready for the top 6 list and it’s right below. This article is wholly focused on deer hunting, but if you’re looking for the best overall 308 Winchester ammo for hunting and target shooting, then check out this article: The Best 308 Ammo for Hunting and Target Shooting.

The Best 308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Top Picks

1. Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point
2. Hornady Custom 150 gr SST
3. Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX
4. Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent
5. Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X
6. Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

The Best .308 Ammo for Deer Hunting Overall

Winchester Deer Season XP 150 gr Extreme Point

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extreme Point
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Optimized polymer tip for ideal penetration and expansion
• Affordable
• Built specifically for deer hunting

Cons

• Results vary depending on the rifle

Why We Chose It

If you’re looking for a premium deer hunting round that has the terminal performance to stop a trophy whitetail or mule deer dead in its tracks, then look no further than Winchester Deer Season XP.

Winchester designed the Deer Season XP line of ammunition with the specific needs of deer hunters in mind. Descended from the legendary Winchester Power Point bullet, the Extreme Point 150-grain bullet offers deep penetration combined with wicked expansion to really quickly and ethically put down any trophy buck that wanders near your tree stand.

The secret to the Extreme Point’s effectiveness is tied to its aerodynamic polymer tip. Not only does it protect the oversized hollow point during chambering, but the tip also initiates expansion immediately when it encounters soft tissue.

This puts down deer fast so long as your shot placement is on point, and with its low price point you’ll have more than enough opportunity to get out to the range and practice those long-range hunting shots.

When you combine all of these qualities together, the result is more venison in your freezer, an amazing rack of antlers on your wall, and a story to tell your hunting buddies that you’ll never forget. And if you want that, then make sure your bolt-action deer hunting rifle is loaded with Winchester Deer Season XP 150 Extreme Point ammo this fall!

Hornady Custom 150 gr SST

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Super Shock Tip
• Bullet Weight: 150 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,820 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,648 FT-LBS

Pros

• Loaded with Hornady’s reputation for quality
• Excellent weight retention and terminal performance
• Availability

Cons

• More expensive than Winchester

Why We Chose It

If you plan on hunting medium-sized game and want a round with a flat trajectory and devastating terminal performance, then Hornady Custom 150 gr SST ammo is what you need for your next hunt.

The Hornady SST combines everything hunters love from Hornady’s groundbreaking Interlock Soft Point design and integrates it into a hollow point projectile with a polymer tip to initiate expansion. Upon impact the tip is forced into the hollow point to initiate expansion. delivering tremendous shock to a whitetail and creating a massive wound channel that can put a deer down fast.

The SST bullet utilizes an aerodynamic secant ogive bullet profile for a flatter trajectory, tapered jacket for deep penetration, and the patented Hornady Interlock ring that locks the lead core to the jacket and thereby increasing weight retention.

All in all, the Hornady Custom 150 gr SST is an incredibly close runner-up to our top pick and is only supplanted due to a slightly higher price point. However, given Hornady’s outstanding reputation for loading incredibly accurate and deadly ammo, a slightly higher price is easily justified when you want to make sure that trophy buck ends up on your wall.

Black Hills Gold 168gr TSX

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Triple-Shock X
• Bullet Weight: 168 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,650 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,619 FT-LBS

Pros

• Great quality and reputation
• High velocity for its weight
• Triple-Shock X bullet offers excellent expansion and penetration

Cons

• It’s pricey, but it’s also spicy

Why We Chose It

When shooters talk about Black Hills ammo, phrases like “incredibly accurate”, “extremely consistent”, and “excellent terminal ballistics” are commonplace. The Black Hills Gold 168 gr TSX holds true to this legacy and is unquestionably a deer hunting round that should be on your short list to pickup this fall.

Although this offering from Black Hills is firing a heavier bullet than our first two selections, it still maintains a high muzzle velocity and flat trajectory desired for those long range shots.

The Barnes TSX bullet is the heart of this Black Hills Gold factory load, providing unparalleled stopping power and accuracy that is stops whitetail, black bears, feral hogs, and any other 4-legged varmint dead in their tracks.

Machined from a solid piece of copper, Triple-Shock X bullets utilize a traditional hollow point bullet that offers exceptional penetration and expansion that’s needed when taking on big game animals. And as the bullet is lead-free to boot, which means it’s legal for use in states like California.

If you’re familiar with Barnes Bullets and the TSX, you’ll know that it is the big brother to their newer model, the TTSX (Tipped Trippe-Shock X) bullets. Both are excellent hunting bullets, but Black Hills opted to go with the classic model and who can blame them?

We know a lot of people talk about the price of the Black Hills Gold TSX, but when you consider you’re getting an average of 60 pounds of meat for $3, and you don’t have to spend hours tracking an injured Cervidae, it’s more than worth it!

Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent

Specs

• Casing: Nickel-Plated Brass
• Bullet Type: Terminal Acent
• Bullet Weight: 175gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,627 FT-LBS

Pros

• Bonded construction for high weight retention
• High ballistic coefficient for long range shots
• Designed for excellent expansion at high and low velocity

Cons

• You pay for performance

Why We Chose It

The Federal Terminal Ascent is not only one of the heavier bullets on our list, but it’s an exquisitely designed, polymer-tipped, and high-quality round that feeds well. The nickel-plated brass makes for smooth chambering, and the bonded lead core helps the projectile retain its weight on impact.

Federal designed the Terminal Ascent with its patented Slipstream polymer tip to give the bullet a flatter trajectory (because accuracy is important), but it also helps with low-velocity expansion.

Capable of taking big game animals like elk and caribou, the Federal Premium 175 gr Terminal Ascent is more than capable of taking down any whitetail or mule deer that crosses your path.

This Federal Premium hunting ammo is one deer hunting round that you don’t want to miss when it’s in stock even though it’s a little pricey. But as Federal says on their website regarding Terminal Ascent, “Any hunt. Any range.” And that is performance most hunters are willing to shuck out a few extra shekels for!

Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Extremely Low Drag – Expanding
• Bullet Weight: 178 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,600 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,672 FT-LBS

Pros

• Match-grade accuracy and reliability
• Backed by Hornady’s reputation and consistency
• High ballistic coefficient for long-range shots

Cons

• Heavier bullet weight
• Heavier price tag

Why We Chose It

Any competitive shooter will tell you that match ammo is excellent for long range precision shooting, but any hunter will also tell you that match-grade ammo isn’t ethical for hunting deer (or any game, for that matter). Hornady solved this issue by taking the best qualities of their match ammo and combined it with an expanding bullet to create one of the most deadly hunting bullets ever made.

The Hornady ELD-X is one of the top long-range hunting bullets on the market, walking in the same circles as long-time standbys like the Accubond Long Range or Berger VLD.

The Hornady ELD-X integrates many of the same qualities as the SST, which was our #2 pick earlier in this article. It utilizes the Interlock system to keep the lead core and jacket of the bullet intact during expansion as well as a smooth, sleek design with a high ballistic coefficient for long-range accuracy.

Hornady combined their highly concentric AMP bullet jacket technology with their equally impressive Heat Shield tip to create a bullet that is not only streamlined but also extremely deadly.

Although Hornady Precision Hunter ammo is extremely accurate and effective against large game animals, it also carries a price tag to match that performance. However, as most hunters aren’t spending the weekend plinking with their hunting rifle and only need a few boxes of ammo per year, that price tag is well worth the added performance Hornady Precision Hunter 178 gr ELD-X offers.

Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Pointed Soft Point (PSP)
• Bullet Weight: 180 gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,743 FPS
• Muzzle Energy: 2,620 FT-LBS

Pros

• Affordable and Effective
• Easy to find
• Trusted by generations to bring home the venison

Cons

• Not as accurate as some premium rounds

Why We Chose It

The Remington Core-Lokt 180 gr PSP is the closest thing you’ll get to your Grandpa’s favorite hunting rounds. You don’t get a lot of bells and whistles with these hunting cartridges, but they hit hard and simply get the job done.

Remington designed the Core-Lokt in the late 1930s and has been one of the flagship hunting cartridges for the company ever since. Although it may not be as sleek or accurate as an ELD-X, but the Core-Lokt simply slaps and can easily fell a deer with one bullet with good shot placement.

Combine all this with a price tag every hunter can afford, there’s no way that we couldn’t include this classic big game hunting round.

Parting Shots

The 308 Win has a long and storied history of being an extremely accurate and effective deer hunting round. Picking the best 308 ammo for deer is always something that is a little bit subjective, but if you pick any of the rounds on our top 6 list, we promise you won’t be disappointed.

No matter your preference, do keep in mind that ammo goes fast especially when the leaves start to change colors. When you see a few boxes available, grab them up and put them away for deer season.

You can click HERE to go back to the top of our list or scroll down to our buyer’s guide to learn more about choosing .308 ammo for hunting.

The Best 308 Ammo For Deer Buyer’s Guide

Welcome to our .308 Winchester for deer hunting buyer’s guide! In this section, we’ll review some tips to help you pick out your next favorite deer-hunting bullet. We also have tips to help you pick your next favorite .308 ammo for other hunting and shooting activities.

.308 Winchester Deer Hunting Bullet Types Explained

Finding good deer hunting ammo is pretty easy when you know what to look for. When I first started buying deer hunting ammo (many years ago), I picked up whatever box was cheap and had a picture of a deer on it (let’s be honest, that’s great marketing). Now, as an avid hunter, one of the first things I look at is the bullet type and design.

Bullets react with their targets in different ways depending on their composite and design (this is called terminal ballistics). For example, you’ve probably heard of FMJs (Full Metal Jackets). These rounds have a soft lead core covered with a thin jacket (typically copper), and they’re most useful for target shooting and plinking because they are inexpensive.

FMJ ammo is great for a fund day at the range, but they don’t expand on impact when they impact soft tissue. Despite the muzzle velocity, trajectory, and ballistic coefficient, these bullets aren’t going to create a wound channel sufficient enough to ethically take down large to medium sized game like whitetail deer or feral hogs.

Now you might think that hollow point bullets are the way to go for deer hunting, but this is also a misconception. Although jacketed hollow points are excellent for self-defense handgun ammo, they simply aren’t great for deer hunting. Most hollow point rifle bullets are match-grade (like the Sierra Matchking) and designed for long range shooting and accuracy.

Accuracy is definitely important when you line up your sights on a trophy buck. But since match ammo doesn’t offer any advantages in terminal ballistics over FMJ ammo, they simply aren’t appropriate for deer hunting.

So, the only suitable hunting ammo types are bullets that reliably expand when they encounter a big game animal. These bullets types include Soft Points, Polymer Tips, SSTs (Super Shock Tip), ballistic tips, PSP (pointed soft point), or something like the Nosler Partition.

.308 Deer Hunting Rifle and Ammo Tips

Rifle selection is an important part of deer hunting, as you need to make sure that your rifle can deliver your hunting bullets to where they need to go.

You don’t need the hottest hunting rifle on the market to put down big game, regardless of what the kind salesperson behind the gun counter tells you. Your great uncle’s Ruger Hawkeye bolt-action rifle, Granddad’s sketchy Henry 30-30 lever action rifle (speaking from experience here), or the hottest semi-automatics can all equally put deer on your kitchen table.

No matter your rifle preference, there are some things that you should know about finding the perfect cartridge to drop a mule deer on the spot.

As mentioned previously, you’ll want to get out to the range before deer season. Most factory loads (and even hand loads) perform differently depending on the rifle. These variations are further exacerbated by varying twist rates and casings.

If you love to hunt, you should love to go target shooting too. Shot placement is just as important as terminal ballistics, so pick up a few boxes of .308 ammo from different manufacturers, and get out to the range to find out which ones are most accurate in your chosen hunting rifle.

Naturally, you’ll also want to keep your rifle clean and in good working order. A rifle you don’t take care of will not take care of you (or any wild game hunting). This tip also includes taking great care of your scope (hence, also getting out to the range).

Another thing to consider when using the .308 Winchester for deer hunting is distance. The options listed above tend to perform well within 400 yards. But before you take those long-range shots, ensure your rifle and ammo will perform adequately.

Different cartridges will have different effective ranges when it comes to deer hunting. Rounds like the 30-06 Springfield and 6.5 Creedmoor have different trajectories and terminal performance compared to the 308 Win, so it’s important to understand your rifle, cartridge, and their capabilities before you ever set foot in the woods.

Frequently Asked Questions

There’s a lot that goes into hunting, ammo, and your rifle. If we didn’t cover all of your burning questions above, hang out with us for a few more minutes, and we’ll answer your most frequently asked questions.

Is this .308 ammo good for bears too?

The .308 Winchester is an excellent cartridge for black bear and is more effective than handguns for bear defense. There are multiple rounds that are effective against black bear like the Barnes VOR-TX or Nosler’s Accubond that are perfectly suited if you actively choose to pick a fight with Baloo.

Is there a difference between the .308 Norma Magnum and the .308 Winchester?

Yes, the .308 Norma Magnum uses a 338 Win Mag case necked down to fire a .30 caliber projectile. Essentially, the 308 Norma Magnum has a larger case and is more powerful than the .308 Winchester.

What does a boat tail do?

A boat tail helps a bullet reduce drag, giving it a flatter trajectory and making it less susceptible to wind deflection. This makes the bullet more aerodynamic and increases the ballistic coefficient.

Can I use the 5.56 NATO or .223 for deer hunting?

Many states prohibit the use of 5.56 NATO or 223 Remington for deer hunting. However, the bullets like a Federal Fusion or Trophy Bonded can be effective against deer when fired from a 223.

Can I buy .308 Winchester deer hunting ammo in bulk?

Absolutely! If you want to stock up, we have a lot of bulk .308 Winchester ammo available. Look for the Soft Point, PSP, or Winchester Power Point.

Back to the Best .308 Deer Hunting Ammo

Now that you have a better understanding of the .308 Winchester and the best deer-hunting ammo click HERE to go back to our favorite 308 deer hunting cartridges!

Finally! I got my hands on the Benelli M4, more specifically the Benelli M1014, and I couldn’t be more excited to review this world-renowned semi-automatic tactical shotgun.

Today we’re going to be talking about a truly iconic shotgun, that is the Benelli M4 / M1014. This gun is so well known simply by sight it is the “tactical shotgun” everyone thinks about when they think of tactical shotguns.

Popular Culture

It would be a huge disservice considering the Benelli M4 alone has been featured in over 40 movies and TV shows.

The Benelli M Series of shotguns has been featured in hundreds of movies and TV shows through the years.

Some of the most popular movies such as John Wick, Miami Vice, Sabotage, The Walking Dead, and everyone’s new favorite Yellowstone.

These are just a small sample of shows that feature the M4. If you go back to the M1, M2, and M3 you will find your favorite movie among them, I’m certain of it.

Benelli M4 Military Use

I’m going to talk a little bit about the history and get into it makes this weapon so interesting.

The Benelli M4 is in wide military usage across the globe and is one of the few shotguns that was built from the ground up to be a combat shotgun.

Since it was created with the very purpose of being used it combat that makes the gun even more appealing and the design choices Benelli made are extremely interesting and telling.

The United States Marines have used the gun since 1999.

Other countries currently using the Benelli M4 for military use are Isreal, the United Kingdom, Australia, South Korea, and Portugal just to name a few.

These semi-auto shotguns are used from small tactical units right up to infantry fighting units.

They are battle-tested and proven in a number of conflicts across the globe.

This is a very effective weapon and because of the amount of combat action this shotgun has seen, it’s extremely easy to review because we already know that this is a proven combat shotgun that is reliable and durable.

So now all that is left to do is talk about how this shotgun is different from the other shotguns on the market and the features and ergonomics that make this gun so different.

Features and Ergonomics

The features and ergonomics of the Benelli M4 are a huge selling point for this tactical shotgun.

The ergonomics along with the insanely manageable recoil are two things that really make this gun what it is.

Many people don’t come close to a Benelli M4 because it is somewhat expensive but the ones who have used it know that it is truly one of the best tactical shotguns available.

Pistol Grip

I’ll start with one of the most iconic pieces of the gun: the grip.

Many movies have made reference to the grip and it is the easiest way to identify the weapon at a glance.

The grip feels good and large the pistol grip texture is decent on the M1014 it is a polymer grip with lines cut in the polymer to serve as the texture.

I have smaller hands and it still feels good even for a larger grip.

The pistol grip on the M4 really makes this gun shine it’s a combination of a comfortable known feeling of a pistol and the balance of a shotgun all in one.

Trigger

Now that brings us to the trigger, one of the most important parts for companies to get right!

The trigger has only a small amount of play before you hit the wall. With about a 6-7 pound pull and a short crisp reset, the trigger is really nice.

For a shotgun, Benelli has really impressed me with this trigger because it’s very short and crips, and feels great. Considering it’s a combat shotgun built from the ground up the fact they got such a nice trigger in this gun is surprising.

Safety

There’s really only so much you can say or do with a shotgun safety. It’s nothing to write home about.

You can easily toggle the safety one or off and it works well but it’s nothing earth-shattering.

Barrel

Most of the Benelli M4 models feature an 18.5-inch barrel.

The Benelli for your slugs and your buck, anything that you could possibly need to use with it.

There are shorter models of the Benelli M4 that have a 14-inch barrel for CQB and other closer engagements.

I like the 18.5″ barrel due to the fact it can be used for nearly any application with any ammo and be very effective.

The versatility of this gun is fantastic you can hunt with it, skeet shoot, nearly anything you want to do with this shotgun you can. Overall the barrel length in the 18.5″ is great and I like it a lot.

Handguard

Now let us talk about the handguard because while it is a very simple design it’s an extremely important part of the shotgun.

With this handguard, there isn’t much in the way of mounting options so if you are used to an AR-15 and its infinite amount of mounting accessories this might be a slight disappointment to you.

But the simplicity is unbeatable. You can take off both of the plastic handguard pieces are replace them with picatinny or any aftermarket handguard you wish.

But keep in mind this handguard design is combat-proven and changing the handguard or throwing anything on the gun increases the complexity of the gun.

Plus, the gun has such clean lines adding anything to it will really break up the extremely clean look of the M4.

So this handguard works great in my opinion.

One thing to note about this gun is the barrel is thick and the handguard performs just fine but the weapon does heat up when you shoot it and it can heat up fast.

If you shoot 20-25 rounds consecutively you’re going to start feeling some serious heat from the barrel. My recommendation is to make sure you a wearing some thick gloves if you plan to shoot this gun rapidly and consecutively.

Stock

The nice thing about the Benelli M4 is that there are multiple socks out there that you can switch out for.

But considering the stock is iconic I’m not too worried about switching it out.

I really do like the sock on the Benelli M1014. The stock feels good when you shoot. What many people don’t know is most of the stocks on the Benelli M4’s are single position, yes even the skeletonized stocks that look collapsible.

It all boils down to the M4 Recoil Spring Tube Assembly and if it’s cut for multiple position stock adjustment or not.

Overall the stock is exceptional and functions as intended.

Loading/Tubular Magazine

Time to talk about the tubular magazine on the Benelli M4. Surely another iconic piece of the gun.

The magazine tube on this weapon provides a ton of stability for the gun. There are a number of rings holding the magazine tube so that it doesn’t move, bend, or sway. This tubular magazine is definitely not going to be knocked out of place or damage to take this weapon out of service.

The magazine cap on the end of the magazine is very sturdy and durable as well.

Of course, most of us have been spoiled with the AR-15 and even bolt guns with their magazine-fed functionality the magazine tube feels dated at best.

While there are magazine-fed shotguns they don’t have quite the combat-proven appeal that the tubular magazine shotguns have.

Also, the reliability of a shotgun shell in a magazine is not as good as a tubular magazine. At some point though I could see the magazine feed shotgun make the tubular magazine shotguns obsolete.

But as it stands as of this writing the Benelli M4 is the most reliable, durable, and combat-proven shotgun on the market today.

If you’re looking for a purpose-built combat shotgun the Benelli is no slough and definitely should be considered.

Shell Release Lever

We have covered a number of the features of this gun already but one of the most interesting ones is the shell release lever.

This part get’s a little deep and it’s easier to show you than it is to explain in writing so try to stay with me here.

The Benelli M4 features a shell release lever. The lever functions in a way that allows you to stop the next round in the magazine tube from being released and chambered with the gun are either fired or the shell in the chamber is ejected.

So if you have a round loaded into your Benelli M4 until you hit that Shell Release Lever, no more rounds are going to come into the chamber from the magazine tube.

But what would you need that you ask?

First, this is a safety feature built in to stop this semi-auto shotgun from chambering additional rounds. If you need to store this gun in a vehicle and don’t want to keep one in the chamber but want it to remain ready to fire quickly it’s perfect for that scenario.

Second, if you are handing the gun to someone you can unload the chambered shell and then not chamber the next round to hand it to them over an obstacle or a barrier safely and simply

Third, and most importantly, you can easily switch between different types of shotgun shells quickly and in the middle of shooting.

For example, if you have your magazine filled with buckshot and you need to reach further downrange to hit your target you can lock your shell release lever and cycle the chambered round and switch your shotshell out for say… a slug, now you can reach downrange and engage your target at a longer distance.

So as a recap, if I have a round in the chamber, but I need to load the next round for whatever reason I can go ahead and I hit the shell release, I eject out the current round in the chamber, release it, and that will load up the next round.

Now, keep in mind if I’m unloading the weapon and cycle the shells out of the chamber, I flip it around and I’m releasing the shells off manually once those are out, if I try to lock this bolt back, it’s not going to lock back because it will only lock back on an empty chamber once the hammer has dropped.

But to get it to lock back what I can do is, hit the shell release lever, then I can lock that bolt back.

Capacity

Now depending on the version, you get a seven-round tube or a five-round tube with a cap, which is silly. Magazine caps and limits are foolish.

The Benelli M4 can shoot both 2 3/4″ and 3″ shells. The cap in the five-round tube can be removed and if legal to do so I highly recommend it.

It is very easy to switch the magazine tube to get the 2 round limit out of the Benelli M4, to achieve the seven-plus one magazine. But it may cost a little money. You also need to be aware of 922(r).

What’s 922(r)? It’s a federal law that prohibits Benelli from importing this gun with a 7 round capacity. You can learn more about it by watching this video.

You can actually get seven plus two if you have the 7 round tube. Let us talk about ghost loading.

Ghost Loading/Carrier Loading

So what is Ghost loading? Ghosting loading is getting your Benelli M4 to a nine-shell capacity.

Here is how you ghost load:

1. Pull that back until the shell carrier doesn’t lift
2. Then drop the shell that was in the chamber into the shell carrier
3. Then you place your second shell into the Chamber
4. Ride that bolt forward
5. Go ahead and shoot

If you would like to see it in person watch flannel daddy (aka Travis Haley’s son) explain and show you the Ghost loading technique.

Operating System

One of the major components of the Benelli M4 is its gas system and simple and easy it is to take down.

The gas system is called the ARGO, which stands for auto regulating gas-operated.

A.R.G.O.Benelli’s patented Auto-Regulating Gas-Operated (A.R.G.O.) system is a simple, self-cleaning, piston-driven action.

The gas system is also what makes the gun shoot clean to the point you almost don’t have to clean the weapon.

Because of the ARGO’s gas systems self-cleaning ability there have been documented instances of M4’s going 20,000+ rounds with no cleaning and no issues.

Assembly/Disassembly

Assembly and disassembly of the Benelli M4 is extremely simple.

To disassemble the M4 you start by unscrewing the cap right that holds the barrel on.

Once that is off you can easily pull the Benelli M1014 apart.

This is one of the appeals of the M4 because it is extremely field-friendly, it’s very easy to replace the barrel and operating system assemblies for a shorter one. So if I needed the 14-inch entry model, it’d be very easy to pull off the 18.5″ barrel and put on a whole new barrel.

Underneath the handguards is the ARGO system. The ARGO system has two operating rods that are piston-driven and impinge upon the bolt carrier group and cycle it.

The ARGO system is a very simple and reliable system and the best part is it works with nearly any shotgun round, from slugs to buckshot to lighter rounds like birdshot.

The A in ARGO stands for auto-regulate so no need to adjust the gas system depending on your shotgun shell.

Sights

Let us talk about the sights on the Benelli M4, probably one of the most important things on the gun.

The sights that come stock on the Benelli M4 are quite good. The front sight has a simple white dot and wings on either side to protect it.

The wings on the front sight are a nice touch are clearly there to protect the front sight so it doesn’t get knocked around or damaged.

Moving back to the rear sight which features an extremely simple ghost ring setup.

The ghost ring sight is fully adjustable and is fantastic to use. The sight picture is great and overall it’s hard to beat.

The stock sights are awesome. But most people who pay for a Benelli M4 are going to put an optic on it of some kind. It just makes sense and really completes the gun overall.

Finish

Time to talk about the finish on the Benelli M1014.

All of the aluminum parts are anodized with a tough mil-spec phosphate coating.

The coating is extremely resistant to rust and corrosion but if you happen to need just a little extra Benelli does offer an H2O model.

You never hear much about people having trouble with their Benelli coating so I feel you can rely on this phosphate coating to last.

The finish is a matte finish with almost no glossy parts on the M4 at all, which I personally love for a few reasons.

Less chance of someone seeing a reflection if you are using this in combat or self-defense and matte finishes just seem to hold up better.

Benelli M4 Accessories

Naturally with any gun, you’ll want to accessorize it to make it your own. The old adage there are many of these guns but this is my gun doesn’t really hit home until you add your own flair.

So what is available? I’m glad you asked!

Benelli M4 Bag

If you are looking for a great case for your Benelli M4 Lynx Defense has you covered with the Gigabyte shotgun case.

The Gigabyte is the best soft case for the Benelli M4 and has tons of padding and weapon retention.

If you don’t need a hard case the Gigabyte is the hands-down best carry case for your Benelli M4.

Optics

The nice thing about the M4 is it comes standard with a 1931 picatinny rail on top of the gun so nearly any AR-15 optic or red dot sight will work.

But! There are some other interesting options and spins you can take let’s dive in.

Trijicon RMR

Using the Scalarworks SYNC you can easily mount a Trijicon RMR to your Benelli M1014.

The Scalarworks mounting system replaces the existing Picatinny rail system and adds an optic mounting plate for the RMR, much like you would see on a red dot-ready pistol slide.

Aimpoint T-2 or Comp M5 or T-1

You can also buy a Scalarworks Sync/02 for the Aimpoint T-2, Comp M5, or Aimpoint T-1.

The nice part about the Sync mount is you can co-witness the iron sights with the Aimpoint T-1 or T-2.

EOTech HWS

The EOTech HWS will affix directly to the top rail and you will see almost every Benelli M4 feature these optics.

Why?

Because they work and a rock-solid in design and look great on the M4. Not to mention they are nearly perfect for a shotgun. The design of EOTech’s holograph reticle is the perfect circle shotgun pattern.

You can check out our full review on the EOTech HWS.

Flashlights

One of the best ways to mount a flashlight to the Benelli MR is to use the Multi Light Benelli M4 Scout Mount.

It is made by Impact Weapons Components and works great. You can it up from Brownells and a number of other retailers.

The Impact Weapon Scout Mount allows you to directly mount any Surefire, Streamlight, or other weapon light you choose.

Personally, I wouldn’t mount any pressure switches since you would have to do some serious custom work to make that work and would just use the push button activation caps.

Shooting the Benelli M1014

One of the nicest things about the Benelli M4 is shooting it. The A.R.G.O. system works incredibly well and a lot of the recoil is absorbed because of the gas system.

This is one of the major selling points of the Benelli M4 and it does do its job in mitigating recoil.

Ammo Options

Shotgun shells are one of the most prolific rounds available and with that comes a ton of options and possibilities. Let us talk about the three main loads you are likely to use in the Benelli M4.

Good Slug for Benelli M4

There are a ton of great slug options for the Benelli M4. Slugs have gotten rather expensive in the world of ammo in 2022.

However, if you are looking for range rounds that won’t break the back the low recoil Fiocchi 12 Gauge – 2-3/4″ Rifled Slug rounds are probably your best bet.

Good Buckshot for Benelli M4

Buckshot has tons of different options due to its popularity in the hunting space. But when it comes to the M4 it feels like it needs a tactical buckshot load.

So for this, I’d have to recommend the Black Aces 00 Buckshot to feed in your Benelli M4.

Final Thoughts

Without a doubt, I think the Benelli M4 is the go-to combat shotgun.

It’s probably the best one out there currently. There are other shotguns that are giving the M4 a run for its money, namely the Beretta 1301.

But the Benelli M4 still holds the gold medal in terms of durability, reliability, and finish resistance.

Many other options are better than the M4 but it still has its place and purpose and still is incredibly reliable.

The M4’s biggest limitation is the fact it’s a shotgun and it has all the same limitations regular shotguns have. But for something close range and one the ability to absolutely destroy targets at close range you can’t beat a 12 gauge shotgun.

Final thought, the Benelli M4 is a fantastic combat-capable shotgun that looks great and performs great and not only is it one of the best shotguns on the market but it’s one of the best shotguns for home defense.

FAQ

You decided to go fishing, prepared everything like you usually do, but the weather changed. It is raining and you are wondering what to do?

Fishing in the rain can be done, and rainy weather can actually help you in some cases. What many people consider bad weather, is actually good for angles!

Environmental factors have a huge impact on fish. Rain affects river flows, it carries different insects and worms into the river from the riverbanks. That attracts fish which can feed on it. The same goes for lakes too …

Clouds, unlike sun, provide darker conditions during the day, and it can also be your advantage. So, this is your opportunity to profit the best you can from that situation.

Except that, while fishing in the rain, you will also need to think about your needs and how to protect yourself from cold, rain and possible dangers.

Here we will see how rain affects on different fishes, what gear to use, find out some rain tips and learn how to prepare yourself.

Is it Good or BAD to Fishing in the Rain? [Why?]

Depending on the season, rain can be very useful for fishing. Before I mention some tips for fishing, here are some basics.

In early spring, when the water is high and temperatures low, most of the time rain will not be your advantage.

But in warm months of the year, when water levels are lower, moderate rainfall will be the best situation for fishing adventure. The same applies to times after strong and heavy rainfalls (storms).

Very important thing to mention is to avoid fishing during heavy thunderstorms and lightning because that can be very dangerous for you.

As already mentioned, rain carries small worms and insects into the water, but also causes commotion among small living creatures in the water. This occurrence causes increase in fish activity.

Rain can also affect the water temperature, and/or blur it and darken it. In those conditions large fish can move around more than usual.

In rainy days it is good to use bigger spinners because they are more visible in the absence of sunlight and such fishing conditions. We will mention different approaches for different fish species later on.

In lakes with clear water rain will cause darker conditions and make fish more active which is good for productive fishing. Unlike rivers, lakes are prone to lack of oxygen in warm and dry months of the year. Rain will cool the water, restore some oxygen and create lower visibility for fishes, so they can’t see you and your fishing equipment.

Rain can make the water very muddy and “dense”. As rain carries living creatures into water, it can also carry large amounts of mud. Those conditions are not desirable for fishing. In that situation you should find the clearest possible spot, away from obvious mudflows from riverbanks. This problem is much bigger if you are not using a boat.

You can predict this problem if it has been raining for days prior to your fishing trip. That way you can consider possible locations before and not to use your precious fishing time for location searching.

Even the light rain can affect your fishing sucess. Together with steady light wind, it creates favorable conditions as it oxygenates the water.

Is Fishing Better Before or After Rain?

When talking about rainstorms, fishing is better before.

Before the storm and heavy rains, the barometric pressure lowers which is good for fish activity. Feeding frenzy can occur among fish and that’s the best time for you to present your bait and catch a fish, or more than one. Fish bites will come one after another!

During the storm the fish activity will slow down but that is not a problem because it is not advisable to fish in that conditions. In the end of the storm there is a very short time window in which pressure increases and fish are active. When the storm is over, fish will act the same as usual, or even be more inactive.

During summer and early fall you can benefit greatly from fishing before the storm. Also, at that time of the year very hard but not long-lasting thunderstorms are more frequent. If you want to try, and use the weather for your advantage, bass is one of the fishes that will react the most on weather changes.

If your weather predicting skills are not that good, there are numerous internet websites and weather mobile apps which are highly accurate and easy to use so that anyone can figure out the weather forecast. Or if you prefer, you can buy a simple barometer and have it with you while fishing.

Rain Will Help You Catch More Fish like Trout, Carp and Bass

Trout, carp and bass are among fish which are the most sensible on weather conditions.

Trout reacts the most to lower light, carp to oxygen level and bass to water movement, everything caused by rainy conditions. No matter which one you prefer to catch, rain will be your best friend while fishing for them.

Trout Fishing in the Rain

Absence of sunlight will make trouts more active.

In darker conditions they lurk on their prey because they are less visible to it.

Fly-fishing for trouts in the rain will work the best …

Usually, the best time to catch trouts is low light condition like early morning or evening. Clouds and rain produce similar conditions during the whole day. Rain washes insects to the water and attracts trouts, so this is the best time to present your bait. Although this time is the best for dry flies, it is also good to try fishing deeper. Small water invertebrates are also stirred up at this time, and they are important food for trouts. Sinking flies are very useful here.

Rain brings cold weather (or at least a few degrees cooler) which is great in warmer parts of the year. You all know that trout prefer coller water.

Carp Fishing in the Rain

Fishing in the rain for carp can be beneficial but also it depends on of the season.

In warmer months quick rain showers affect carps activity. They are more active before the shower. While temperature of the water is lower, like in spring, rain will cool it even more so carp will be less active. Apparently, carps are more sensitive to wind than other fish (bass for example), so if the conditions are windy try to find a sheltered spot. Carp is also very sensitive to low oxygen levels so that is the main reason it reacts to rain.

Bass Fishing in the Rain

Although fishing in the rain is good, it affects the moving patterns of fish, so in the beginning it can be hard to locate it. If you find baitfish in those conditions, there is a high chance bass is close.

Wind is also important because water motion carries small fish, so its better to go on a downwind side of the water. You can also look for natural hiding places for small fish in harsh weather. Bass will be active and look for them.

When fishing for bass in normal conditions it is important to keep your distance from the fish. While fishing in rain you re not that visible to the bass so you can be closer. That way your casting will be more precise and your lure will not make a big splash while hitting the water surface.

Try topwater baits as bass is now more active than usual. They are aggressively biting in rainy conditions so if you are using spinners they can move faster, if you are using worms, don’t keep them in one place for too long as the bass is swimming around, not lurking from its hiding place.

What is the Must Have Gear for Fishing While Raining? [Every Angler Need!]

Fishing while raining requires an investment in good rain gear.

Imagine yourself being wet and cold and not being able to use most of your fishing day.

You will need a suit and footwear which will keep you dry and warm, even in the storms.

Cheap coats or “emergency” rain suits will not do the job. You will have to visit a specialized store and pick a jacket, pants and boots or boot covers.

It is easy to stay dry while standing in place, but while moving, walking and working with your equipment you need clothes which can handle it.

Fishing Rain Suits for Fishing

There are numerous brands that you can choose from but make sure you invest in quality products.

Prices can vary but make sure it is comfortable, you can normally move in it and that it has easy accessible pockets.

The more waterproof and heavy it is the less breathable it will be, so you decide what option is the best for you.

Light ones are usually more comfortable but less durable. If you don’t care about the prices there are high-end options that combine durability, comfort and are breathable.

If you are a beginner the best option would be multi functional rain suit you can use for other outdoor activities too. Make sure that zippers, buttons and sleeve edges are tight and fit properly.

No matter which items you decide to buy, at least the basic waterproof gear is a must to protect yourself from wet weather!

How Rain Affects Water Temperature and Your Fishing?

Rain can also have a significant impact on water temperature and your fishing experience.

When it’s raining, temperature of the water tends to decrease as the precipitation cools down the surface. This drop in temperature can affect fish behavior, making them less active and harder to catch.

However, fishing in the rain can be advantageous in some cases. The raindrops create a masking effect, making it harder for fish to detect your presence. This can give you an advantage when it comes to stealthy fishing.

Additionally, if you’re fishing in an area with warmer water, the rain can bring down the temperature to a more favorable range for fish activity. While fishing during sunny weather is typically considered optimal, don’t shy away from casting your line when it’s raining as it can present unique opportunities.

Adjusting your times to fish and embracing the rain can lead to successful fishing trips.

Conclusion

Fishing in the rain can be more productive than fishing during nice and sunny days.

Most of the fish species react to rain. If you use proper gear and know your locations, most certainly you will end up having one of your best fishing days. AND don’t forget your safety and avoid lightning and thunders.

Fishing in the rain is very similar to dry conditions from the technical aspect but much more productive because of how rain affects the fish behavior. So during summer and fall don’t think twice when the forecast is “bad” because fishing is one of the rare activities which are better in rain.

Limb lines are an extremely effective and simple method of catfishing. Typical limb lines for catfish setups involve nothing more than stout twine, a heavy sinker, a strong swivel, a sharp hook, and a tasty piece of bait. Instead of attaching this to a fishing pole, you tie it to a supple green limb overhanging the water and motor away to go do other things. In your absence, the limb fights the fish. Clever anglers may set a dozen or more of these lines, and let them “soak” for a couple of hours while they fish with a rod and reel nearby. If they’re lucky, they’ll soon be blessed with a “tree shaker,” a catfish so big it makes the whole tree sway as it struggles to return to deeper water!

Are Limb Lines Legal?

In most cases, yes! Most states allow limb lining in one form or another. In places where catfish are plentiful (throughout most of the southern and midwestern United States) regulations generally permit limb lines, trotlines, and other forms of setlining. Some states may have restrictions on the number of lines or hooks you can have out at once, and most require that the lines be tagged with the owner’s information. It’s important that you read up on your state’s regulations and clarify any questions with local authorities before you begin setting limb lines for catfish.

Limb Line Fishing

Some catfishermen look down upon limb lines, claiming that they don’t require any skill. It’s true that limb lines do set the hook and play the fish for you. But limb lines are to rod and reel fishing what trapping is to hunting. It’s a different way to accomplish the same goal, and you put in all of the hard work and planning on the front end of the project. There is definitely an art to setting limb lines.

For this article, we were lucky enough to be able to interview Art Preller. Art is a longtime limb line fisherman on the White River and the inventor of the Port Arthur Limb Line.

How Deep To Set Limb Lines For Catfish

While many fishermen conceptualize catfish as deep water bottom dwellers, Art knows different. “Catfish are edge dwellers,” he says. “They’ll run the bank edge at night, and you don’t need a whole lot of water to catch them in. I’ve got a three foot paddle on my boat, and if I see a limb that looks good I’ll go over and stick that paddle in the water. If it’s got three feet then I’ll go ahead and set a line. I don’t usually fish all the way on the bottom. I’ll drop the bait down to the bottom and then come up about six inches.”

Setting Catfish Lines – Where To Put Them

We asked Art if he had any advice on what stretches of the bank were good candidates for limb line fishing.

“It depends on what you’re fishing for,” Art replied. “If you’re fishing for flatheads, bluff banks are best. If you’re fishing for channel cats or blue cats, you can really catch them almost anywhere. I like to look for banks with a lot of overhanging brush on them. And the more structure you have around on the edge of the bank, the better.”

Catfish Bank Poles/Diddy Poles – An Option When You Don’t Have A Limb

Sometimes, there just isn’t a limb handy where you want to set a hook. Art keeps a few pvc poles in his boat that can be driven into eroded bluff banks. Referred to as “bank poles” “ditty poles” or “diddy poles,” these simple devices can make you a more versatile fisherman.

Diddy poles can be made from pvc, bamboo, cane, or green willow shoots. Anglers can also purchase premade diddy poles made from fiberglass. These poles are small enough in diameter that they can be set on sunken timber with the aid of the appropriately sized drill bit. If you’re looking to purchase some premade diddy poles, Catfish Getters offers them in several sizes and configurations.

Limb Lines On The River

When setting limb lines on the river, look for breaks in the current. If there’s a seam line in the current, catfish will lurk in the low-flow areas and wait to ambush food swept downstream. The mouth of creeks and sloughs off of the main channel can be productive areas.

Structure can also provide an easy place for catfish to rest and wait for prey. Old docks, fallen down trees, and sunken houseboats or derelict vessels on the bank can be productive places.

How To Set Limb Lines For Flatheads

Flathead catfish are highly regarded by serious catfishermen. “Flatheads are kinda like the crappie of the catfish family,” Art explains. “They have a very white, clean meat because they hunt live bait; they’re not scavengers like the other species.”

So how can a catfisherman target flatheads with his limb lines?

“You’ll definitely catch more flatheads with live bait,” he said. “Down here, we like to use goldfish or rice slicks.” (Editor’s note: “rice slicks” is a colloquial term for Green Sunfish (Lepomis cyanellus). “June is usually the most productive month because they’re spawning. Right now, if we set hooks with live bait, we’re running around a 25% hookup rate for flatheads.”

Best Bait For Limb Lines

What about other species? What’s the best bait for channel catfish and blue catfish?

“Nightcrawlers are always a good go-getter,” says Art. “You’ll mainly catch channel cats on them, but you can catch blues and even flatheads occasionally. You just have to be careful how you run your lines. If you’re using nightcrawlers, wait until sunset to bait your hooks. Otherwise bait-stealers like bream and gar will clean your hooks before catfish can find them.”

“As far as blues go, if you can catch a few skipjack or freshwater drum, you can cut those up and that’s a really good bait for blue cats,” Art explains. “We were out just last week and caught a 22lb blue on a piece of cut drum.”

Best Hooks For Limb Lines

Hook selection is a very important part of your limb line strategy. Catfish run the gamut from 2lb “eatin’-sized” channel cats all the way to trophy-class blue cats that can break the hundred pound mark. You’ll want to match your hook to your target fish’s size.

“I’m not really a trophy catfisherman,” says Art. “I’m just out to fill my freezer. My general rule is if a fish is too big for my filet knife, I’ll let him go. You need big fish in your water to replenish what you catch. So with that in mind, I consider a size two to size four j-hook to be about right for what I’m targeting.”

What about trophy catifsh?

“If you’re going for the big fish, those 50-80lb trophy fish, then you’ll want something bigger. I’d say a 7/0 circle hook would be about right for big fish. You’ll also want to get some bigger swivels. Big catfish are tough on your tackle.”

Best Knot For Limb Lines

For your connections to the swivel and hook, a good, no-slip knot with high break strength such as a Palomar knot is ideal. For your attachment to the limb, a good slip-knot will hold even the largest catfish, but come loose quickly and easily with a tug of the tag end when it’s time to gather your lines back up.

Best Time To Set Limb Lines

Limb lines are usually set at night during the spring and summer months. During this time, catfish feed more heavily at night as the water temperatures cool off. They’ll transition from deep, cool holes to the shallows along the shoreline in search of prey such as shad, bluegill, skipjack, crawfish, and insects.

Fishing at night also ensures that you are avoiding the “bait stealers” Art mentions. If you try to run lines during the day, you’ll have to fight with bream, gar, choupique, and even hungry turtles!

Limb Line String

Catfish are not line-shy. Heavy-duty, tarred trotline cord is strong and holds knots well, two features crucial in limb line string. Art’s premade limb lines come standard with tarred cord rated to 170lbs, plenty strong enough for even the biggest trophy catfish.

Limb Line Weights

When selecting weights for limb lines used in catfishing, it is essential to consider the size and behavior of the catfish species you are targeting. Generally, heavier weights are preferred to keep the line securely anchored to the limb or structure. The weight should be sufficient to counteract the fish’s strength and prevent it from easily breaking free. Depending on the water current and depth, weights ranging from 2 to 8 ounces or more may be suitable. It’s important to experiment and adjust the weight based on the specific fishing conditions to ensure the limb line remains stable and effective in attracting and catching catfish.

How To Make A Limb Line

Limb Line Setup

If you’d like to make your own limbline, start by gathering your materials. You’ll need heavy cord, strong swivels, sharp hooks, and some ½-4oz egg weights.

Start by cutting 2 lengths of cord; a 6-10ft main line and an approximately 2ft leader. Tie a heavy-duty swivel on one end of the main line using an improved clinch knot or palomar knot and thread an egg weight on. In heavy current, you’ll need a heavy sinker to keep your bait submerged. In slack water, use a lighter sinker.

Once the sinker is threaded, prevent it from coming off by tying a simple overhand knot on the opposite end of the line from the sinker. Then, tie a hook to your leader line. Straight-shank hooks can be attached with an improved clinch knot or similar. Circle hooks perform better when snelled. Be sure to use a hook size appropriate for the size fish you are after.

Once this is done, tie the hook and leader to the swivel on your main line. Add a tag in compliance with local regs to your main line, and your line is ready for the water!

Limb Line Rigs

It may not occur to most fishermen, but there is more than one way to rig a limb line. Most anglers will stick with the tried-and-tested Carolina and split shot rigs for limb lines. But there’s nothing stopping you from experimenting! Any live or cut bait rig that you would tie on the end of a rod-n-reel can be duplicated on a limb line. A dropshot rig is a good way to suspend bait off of the bottom, and you can experiment with multiple hooks by mimicking a high-low rig.

Catfish Limb Lines For Sale

While limb lines are simple to make, they do take up a lot of time. And if you don’t already have the hardware on-hand, it can be surprisingly expensive by the time you add up all of the materials plus time and gas to acquire them. Pre-made limb lines are an excellent option for fishermen who are short on time, or who just want to try a couple out on their next fishing trip.

Art Preller’s Port Arthur Limb Lines are an innovative take on limb lines. They incorporate a hi-vis, reflective flagging device that serves as a fish indicator, tag, and storage device. According to Art, “You can put fifty of them in a five gallon bucket and they’re all organized. And when you’re done fishing, they’re easy to pull off of the river so that you aren’t losing equipment or littering the environment.”

Limb Line Safety

Unfortunately, some fishermen give limb-lining a bad name and abandon their lines or leave them unattended for too long. This can be dangerous to wildlife and even people, especially when water levels fall and leave the hooks exposed. Animals and boaters can become hooked or entangled in an abandoned limb line, so always be sure to remove your lines when you are done with them!

Limb Line Lights

Some anglers go so far as to mark their limb lines to make them more visible. A chemical glow stick or inexpensive clip-on light can make it easier for you or unwary boaters to locate your lines in the dark. Reflective tape and hi-vis yellow, orange, or pink lines can also make it easier for you and others to see your lines.

Limb Line Tags

In most states, regulations call for tagging your limb lines. These tags generally require you to provide ID and contact information. In Alabama, for example, lines must be tagged with the owner’s name and either a phone number or fishing license number. This information helps conservation officers to identify the owners of abandoned lines.

Limb Line Storage

Perhaps the most difficult part of fishing with limb lines is keeping them organized! The more lines you run, the harder this becomes. A boat full of lines with sharp hooks and flopping catfish isn’t just frustrating, it can be downright dangerous!

Some anglers keep their lines wrapped around a section of foam pool noodle. Bury the hook point in the foam, wrap the line around the noodle, and tuck the tag end under the last wrap for a clean package that can be easily unwound when needed.

Another storage tactic is to wrap the lines around your fingers in a figure-8 pattern and secure it with a small alligator clip. The wrapped line can then be set into a compartment in a flat, stowaway-style tackle box.

Final Thoughts On Limb Lines For Catfish

In conclusion, limb lines are a highly effective and popular method for catching catfish. This traditional fishing technique combines simplicity and efficiency, making it accessible to anglers of all skill levels. By utilizing strong lines, appropriate bait, and strategic placement, limb lines offer a reliable means of catching plenty of catfish. However, it is crucial for anglers to prioritize responsible fishing practices, ensuring the safety and well-being of both the targeted species and the surrounding ecosystem. By adhering to local regulations and employing responsible fishing methods, anglers can continue to enjoy the thrill of limb lining while preserving natural resources and being considerate of other outdoorsmen.

Full Disclosure: This post may include affiliate links. There’s no extra charge to our readers for using these.

There are a ton of different stabilizers types, styles, sizes, and mods out there, so it can be difficult navigating the world of stabilizers. We’ll go over everything you need to know and give you all the juicy details.

Make sure to check out our in-depth guide on how to build a keyboard.

What is a Stabilizer?

Stabilizers are a essential keyboard component placed under the larger keys such as space bar, backspace, and shift, to keep the keys from shaking, rattling, and tilting while typing. The stabilizers keep the keys balanced so you can have a stable typing and gaming experience.

The Different Stabilizers Types

There are a few different stabilizer types out there, Cherry style, Costar, and Optical. They are each significantly different, so we’ll explain what makes them unique.

Cherry Style Stabilizers

Cherry style stabilizers are the most common stabilizers out there. They are the preferred stabilizer type as they are easy to mod and have a lot of different options when it comes to mounting styles, colors, and material types.

Cherry stabilizers have the shape of a Cherry MX switch stem, hence the name Cherry style stabilizers. They make adding and removing keycaps a breeze.

In this guide, we’ll be focusing primarily on the Cherry stabilizer type when explaining all of the different options available. It’s possible to get Cherry style stabilizers in screw-in, snap-in, or plate-mounted variations.

We highly recommend getting a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers as they are the most versatile stabilizers out there.

Costar Stabilizers

Costar stabilizers are a less common stabilizer type, as they are primarily only found on older keyboards, although some newer keyboards may have them.

Costar stabilizers are quite difficult to use and have to be hooked into the keycap to fit. Getting the stabilizer bar to insert properly into the keycap can be a frustrating and lengthy process.

If you like to remove your keycaps and clean your keyboard regularly, these stabilizers can be quite the headache.

They are also difficult to mod and makes replacing the keycaps on your keyboard quite difficult.

Costar stabilizers are great if you want to install them and forget about em. No modding required, pretty good performance, and are affordable to replace. However, not the best if you enjoy tinkering with your keyboard and swapping out your keycaps regularly.

We talk about installing a spacebar with Costar stabilizers here.

Optical Stabilizers

Optical stabilizers are typically only found on keyboards with optical switches, and have a funky design (such as the Razer Huntsman Mini). They have small clips that insert into the keycap that you snap into the stabilizer bar under the plate of the keyboard.

There isn’t a good way to modify these stabilizers to improve them, although you could apply a small amount of lubricant to reduce the sound and rattle noises.

From our experience, these stabilizers are quite rattily, but if you use optical switches, you’re pretty much stuck with them. Not much else to say about these stabilizers.

Stabilizer Size Guide

There are three stabilizer sizes you can purchase: 7u, 6.25u, and 2u.

The stabilizers follow the same measuring system as keycaps, where 1u = the width of one keycap.

The 6.25u size is what you’ll need for a standard spacebar, unless you have a non-standard keyboard layout, in which case you’ll need the 7u size. For the most part you can ignore the 7u size, unless you have a custom keyboard.

All of the other larger keys on your keyboard (that aren’t the spacebar) will require a 2u stabilizer.

If you have a full-sized keyboard, you’ll need:

• 6.25u stabilizer x1
• 2u stabilizer x7

If you have a tenkeyless keyboard, you’ll need:

• 6.25u stabilizer x1
• 2u stabilizer x4

For the smaller layouts, the stabilizers required can vary based on the layout of the keyboard, so there is no exact amount.

A Closer Look at Cherry Style Stabilizers

Now that we’ve gone over the three main stabilizer types, let’s take a closer look at the Cherry style stabilizers as they are the most common and the go-to stabilizer if you’re building a keyboard.

Cherry stabilizers are made up of three main components, the stabilizer bar, insert, and housing. These three components work together to keep the larger keys stable and reduce rattle.

Each key will have one stabilizer bar, two inserts, and two housings. The stabilizer bar keeps both sides of the key from tilting when typing. The stabilizer bars come in several different sizes based on which key it is for, but we’ll get into that later.

Different Mounting Styles for Cherry Stabilizers

There are three different mounting styles for Cherry style stabilizers, they can attach differently and are compatible on certain keyboards. Plate-mounted stabilizers attach to the metal plate, while the other two attaches to the PCB (printed circuit board).

Shown below is a side view of a keyboard with a metal plate and PCB. Read more about PCB vs plate-mount.

Plate-Mounted Stabilizers

Plate-mounted stabilizers are the most common mounting style and are typically found on almost all pre-built mechanical keyboards. These stabilizers attach to the metal plate inside the keyboard instead of directly to the printed circuit board (PCB).

Plate-mounted stabilizers are considered the least effective mounting style as they tend to rattle more and vibrate with the aluminum plate when typing. It’s possible to improve these stabilizers by modding them which we’ll get into later.

The stabilizers attach by clipping/snapping into the metal plate. This style of connection is not the most secure and adds to the overall amount of shaking and rattling.

You can remove these stabilizers by first removing the switch, then pressing on a small plastic tab on the stabilizer, while simultaneously lifting up on the stabilizer.

Screw-In Stabilizers

Screw-in stabilizers mount directly into the PCB and are attached with screws. This mounting style is considered the best because the stabilizers are much more secure and will vibrate less.

In addition, the screw-in stabilizers remain in place when taking off the key caps, unlike the snap-in style which tend to dislodge.

The PCB also tends to vibrate less than the metal plate, which makes it a better mounting location for the stabilizer.

Screw-in stabilizers are typically only found on custom-made keyboards and not on pre-built keyboards, which makes them less common, but highly sought after.

We highly recommend the screw-in stabilizer type if you plan on building a keyboard.

Snap-In Stabilizers

Snap-in stabilizers are another PCB mounted stabilizer type. They are better than plate-mounted, but not quite as effective as screw-in stabilizers.

Since snap-in stabilizers mount to the PCB, they tend to vibrate less than plate-mounted, which makes them a better option. The only downside is they are much less common than plate-mounted, and they are typically only found on custom keyboards.

Screw-in stabilizers are usually a better option than snap-in as they vibrate less and are more secure. The only situation where we would recommend this stabilizer type is if you can’t find a keyboard with screw-in stabilizers.

As mentioned before, snap-in stabilizers can pop out the PCB when trying to remove the keycaps, where screw-in stabilizers do not have this problem.

Different Brands that Make Cherry Style Stabilizers

There are a few main companies that manufacture Cherry stabilizers and they typically come in a variety of different colors and materials.

Durock Stabilizers

Durock stabilizers are interesting because the stabilizer housing insert come in a nice translucent purple with a gold-plated stabilizer bar, if you’re feeling a little fancy. Perfect for building a keyboard with each component adding to the overall aesthetic.

These stabilizers are actually quite affordable considering how unique they look, which makes them an excellent option. We find them to be smoother than the standard GMK stabilizers.

Durock stabilizers only come in the screw-in style, so you can really only use them on a custom keyboard. All of the three sizes are available for purchase (2u, 6.25u, and 7u).

Durock stabilizers come pre-clipped, which mean the little feet on the bottom of the stabilizer housing are removed to make them more stable and improve the typing experience. Many people will do this manually to GMK stabilizers if they mod them.

We also recommend ordering these off of Prevail Key Co.

GMK

GMK is mainly known for their high-end keycaps, but they also produce genuine Cherry style stabilizers. This means they actually hold the tooling to make the “proper” Cherry stabilizers. If you have a keyboard with Cherry stabilizers, most likely they were produced by GMK.

GMK makes very plain and normal looking stabilizers, with a black stabilizer housing and insert, along with a grey metal stabilizer bar. You can get GMK stabilizers in all three mounting styles: plate-mounted, screw-in, and snap-in.

We typically order GMK stabilizers off of NovelKeys as they have them stock-in more often than other stores.

ZealPC

The most expensive stabilizers on the list ($30). Coming with a gold-plated stabilizer bar and clear housing, the ZealPC stabilizers have a design that can work with almost any colored keyboard (unlike the purple Durock stabilizers).

The stabilizers are pre-clipped which makes them rest on the PCB in a more stable fashion and improve the typing experience.

The ZealPC stabilizers are offered only in the screw-mount style, with a custom nut design to prevent stripping the threads.

It’s hard to recommend these stabilizers due to the super high price, when the Durock stabilizers are available with many of the same features at a fraction of the cost.

You can find these stabilizers on the ZealPC website.

Everglide

Everglide stabilizers come with a gold-plated stabilizer bar and clear housing, very similar to the ZealPC stabilizers. They are also pre-clipped, come in the screw-in style, and are a decent price.

These stabilizers come in all three sizes, or you can buy them as a package to save money depending on what size keyboard you have.

You can find them on the kprepublic website.

How to Improve Cherry Stabilizers

If you are willing to put a little extra work in, your Cherry stabilizers can benefit from some custom modifications, the most common being band aid, clip, and lube.

The band aid modification includes applying band-aids where the stabilizer insert hits the PCB to dampen the sound and create a much nicer acoustic.

Clipping the stabilizer feet makes the key feel more stable and less rickety. Many stabilizers come with the feet already clipped.

Lubricating the stabilizers reduces the friction when typing and makes them feel smoother and more consistent.

After these modifications, the stabilizers will feel much better and the difference will be night and day. I recommend everyone with the time and patience to try this mod out.

We have a couple guides on our site to walk you through these mods. Depending on if you have soldering equipment or not, there are few different methods:

• How to Band-Aid Mod, Clip, and Lube Stabilizers
• How to Lube Stabilizers without Desoldering

Click test before and after modification

Conclusion

There is a lot of tribal knowledge in the mechanical keyboard community about stabilizers that everyone assumes you know already, so we hope this post laid out the information for you in a clear and easy-to-read format.

There is a lot of small complexities to sort through when picking out a stabilizer for you next mechanical keyboard. There are many stabilizer sizes, types, manufacturers, and mounting styles, not to mention all of the modifications.

For your first mechanical keyboard build, we highly recommend picking out a keyboard that supports screw-in Cherry stabilizers and going with the Durock or Everglide variations depending on which colorway/price works best for you. These two stabilizers offer the best bang-for-your-buck and offer a smooth, stable typing experience.

If you have a pre-built mechanical keyboard, you’ll usually be stuck with plate-mounted stabilizers (even if it’s hot-swappable). Screw-in and snap-in stabilizers are typically reserved for custom mechanical keyboards.

We also recommend taking the time to mod your stabilizers to improve them even more. A little bit of lubricant and band-aids goes a long way.

Happy Typing!

With big bulls standing nearly 7 feet tall and weighing up to 1,600 pounds, moose are massive animals. They’re technically the largest species in the deer family, prized as trophies for their impressive antlers, second only to how delicious their wild game meat is. An even bigger bragging right for a moose hunter: bagging a record-breaking moose.

While we have no way of knowing that is truly the biggest moose ever, we can turn to the Safari Club International record books to see what is the biggest moose that’s ever been downed in North America. But first, a few fun facts on how big moose truly are.

How Big Can a Moose Get?

The size of a moose depends both on its sex and what subspecies it is. Male bull moose are almost always larger than cow moose, but even a small female can weigh over 800 pounds.

The Shiras moose, located in the Rocky Mountains and Pacific Northwest, are the smallest of the moose subspecies, with adult males weighing up to 1,000 pounds. Still, this makes them the largest big game animal in the Rocky Mountains.

Conversely, the Alaska-Yukon moose (also known as the Alaska moose), found in the northwest reaches of North America, is the largest of the subspecies. Male Alaska bulls can weigh up to 1,600 pounds and stand 7 to 8 feet tall at the shoulders. With a massive rack of antlers added on top, these moose can tower over 10 feet tall.

Western Canada moose, also known as Western moose, and Eastern Canada moose, also known as Eastern moose, fall in between Shiras and Alaska moose in size, with Western moose typically being larger than Eastern.

Does Alaska Have the Biggest Moose?

As you might have guessed, yes, Alaska has the biggest moose—not only in North America, but in the world. That’s why the Alaska moose hunt is on the bucket list of many hunters. Alaska moose inhabit boreal forests and mixed deciduous forests throughout Alaska and western Yukon.

Is There Any Bigger Game Than a Moose in the United States?

The only animal larger than a moose in the United States is a bison. Bison can weigh 2,200 to 3,000 pounds, in comparison to a moose’s weight of 800 to 1,600 pounds. However, bison only have moose beat in terms of weight. They “only” stand about 6 feet at the shoulder, and are 8 feet long, making them shorter than moose all around.

Bison can be hunted in Utah, Wyoming, Arizona, Alaska, and Montana, but getting a tag and permit for a hunt is almost impossible. If you’re looking for the biggest game animal to hunt, moose is a more likely bet.

What Makes an SCI Record Moose Kill?

Safari Club International (SCI) recognizes records for four North American subspecies of moose: the Shiras moose, the Eastern Canada moose, the Western Canada moose, and the Alaska-Yukon moose.

To track records of the biggest moose kills, SCI ranks moose by their antler scores, rather than their weight. Using the SCI measuring system to score a moose, hunters must measure the length and widths of each “palm” on the antler (i.e., the big, flat area of a moose antler). SCI also scores the number and length of tines, the circumference of each main beam of the antler at the smallest place, and the greatest outside spread of the moose’s antlers.

All of the measurements are added together for the final score of the moose. The bigger the palm spread, and the more numerous and longer the tines, the better the animal scores.

Unlike the Boone and Crockett Club, which also tracks moose records, SCI doesn’t deduct the score for abnormal points of differences in antler symmetry. As a result, the SCI score is often significantly higher than the B&C score for the same animal.

Safari Club International Moose Records

1. SCI Shiras Moose Record

Though they are the smallest subspecies of moose in North America, Shiras Moose can still weigh up to 1,000 pounds. Shiras Moose live in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, Montana, Idaho, Oregon, Washington, Alberta, and British Columbia.

Jim Hall set the SCI record for Shiras moose in 2018 when he shot a massive bull near Republic, Washington. Hall had been applying for a moose tag for almost 30 years. He was in the last few days of moose season, after two months of unsuccessful hunting, when he took down the impressive animal.

The moose was estimated to weigh about 650 to 700 pounds and had a combined 242 inches on its antler measurements for a score of 504-7/8 inches. Hall beat the previous record by just 1-1/8 inch.

2. SCI Eastern Canada Moose Record

Eastern Canada moose live in Ontario, Quebec, New Brunswick, Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut, and New York. Big bulls can weigh nearly 1,400 pounds.

Jeremy Boileau shot the current SCI record Eastern Canada moose with a rifle in Quebec, Canada in September of 2011.

Boileau’s behemoth moose scored an incredible 666-3/8 inches, which is more than 80 inches larger than the next biggest Eastern Canada moose and more than 175 inches bigger than the third-biggest moose in the record book! Not only did the moose have a massive outside spread of 56 inches, but it had a ridiculous 20 points on each antler, which is one of the reasons why it scored so high.

3. SCI Western Canada Moose Record

Western Canada moose live in British Columbia, Ontario, Yukon Territory, Northwest Territories, Nunavut, Alberta, Saskatchewan, Manitoba, Wisconsin, Minnesota, parts of North Dakota and Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. With big bulls weighing nearly 1,500 pounds, they are the largest subspecies of moose found in the continental United States.

Doug Rehbein currently holds the SCI record for the Western Canada moose, for a bull he killed with the guidance of hunting guide Mark Boote of Jennings River Outfitters. Rehbein took the moose in October of 1998 in the renowned moose hunting grounds of the Cassiar Mountains of British Columbia.

This giant moose scored a remarkable 557 inches and had a 64-2/8 inch outside spread with 12 points on one antler with 10 on the other. Though the number of points may seem low for the score, this moose had absolutely massive T-2 and T-4 points, which helped boost it to the record books.

4. SCI Alaska-Yukon Moose Record

Alaska-Yukon moose, as the name implies, live in Alaska and the Yukon Territory of Canada. They’re the largest moose in North America, both in terms of body size and antler size.

The largest Alaska-Yukon Moose in the SCI record books, as well as the highest-scoring moose for all of North America, was taken by Debra Card near Cordova, Alaska with a rifle in September 1999. The bull weighed a ridiculous 1,800 pounds.

Not only is this the only moose on the list taken by a female hunter, but it’s also the biggest moose on record ever hunted in the U.S. Her moose had a whopping 74-2/8 inches spread with 19 points on one side and 20 on the other. It scored an extraordinary 731-1/8 inches.

To put in perspective how gigantic this moose was, it measured 225 inches larger—that’s 68 percent!—than the largest Shiras Moose in the record books.

Other Biggest Moose Harvest: The 1897 Moose

As you now know, SCI lists its record moose by antler size. And while a massive rack is incredibly impressive, what about the largest moose every taken by weight?

That record goes to a monster of a moose taken in September 1897. Weighing 1,808 pounds and standing 7.6 feet at the shoulder, the moose was taken in the Yukon and made it into the Guinness Book of World Records. Over a hundred years have passed and still, no one has touched that record.

But, that doesn’t mean there aren’t still plenty of monstrous bull moose out there to be taken. Start planning your United States moose hunt today.

READ MORE: Biggest Bear in the World: Official World Records for Each Bear Species