January 15, 2021

The tune of Mrs. McCottontail was singing out of the X24. My thumb positioned on the volume buttons, ramping the volume of the rabbit cries up and down. My attention was on the grown up fence row that led into a nasty thicket full of briars and treetops. Suddenly a group of birds were frantically communicating with each other straight down the fence row. I thought to myself, “Surely that means a bobcat is on its way.”

All of a sudden a bobcat magically appeared no more that 50 yards in front of me. The bobcat’s eyes were fixated on the call -flipping his tail as he stalked toward the sound. My rifle was already positioned in the direction of the X24. As the cat crossed in front of my gun barrel, I lip squeaked to stop him, settled the crosshairs on his shoulder, and squeezed the trigger. Pew! Thwap!!! There laid a bobcat just feet from the call. I walked up to the cat and was in awe – just like I am of every bobcat that I’ve been blessed to put my hands on.

After several years of calling bobcats in Kentucky, I’ve found that thorough scouting, smart stand selection, and solid calling techniques all work together to increase your odds of tagging bobcats.

SCOUT FOR BOBCATS

Scouting is an important tool to take advantage of for bobcat success. It’s pretty tough to call up a bobcat in a place that doesn’t have them.

First things first, you have to find them. You’ll rarely see a bobcat out in the wide open. Bobcats seem to love the thick stuff. Lots of times the thicker the better. Recently logged areas that have treetops scattered throughout and have grown up in thick briars can be hot spots for cats. Brushy creek bottoms, thick drainages, and even grown up fields can be places that bobcats love to hang out in and hunt.

Get out there and start looking for sign such as tracks & droppings. Probably the easiest way to find tracks is by walking travel corridors after a snow. Looking for tracks in mud and sand along creeks and pond banks can also pay off.

Take advantage of trail cameras. Trail cameras are an excellent scouting method for finding bobcats. Not only will they let you know if you have a cat to hunt, but they can also help you pattern a cat and let you know when you need to be in the area calling.

One thing I’ve learned over the years is if you call a bobcat in an area, there’s a good chance you’ll find success in that area year after year. I have a few stand locations that I can count on to produce a bobcat, year in and year out. There’s actually a couple of locations that I don’t dare call unless bobcat season is in because there’s that good of a chance that a cat will stroll in.

STAND SELECTION

Stand selection is crucial for success. An ideal stand will have you set up tight on thick cover, but be in an area open enough for you to see. Setting up in woods or in thickets can be effective, but you take the chance of a bobcat coming into the call and sneaking back off without you ever seeing it. Plus, there’s a good chance you could spook a bobcat walking in if you push too far into their area.

I personally like to find open areas such as a small field that is adjacent to where I have bobcats scouted. If possible I’ll set up 50-75 yards away from the thick cover and place the FOXPRO out half the distance from me to the edge of cover. A bobcat isn’t likely to cover a tremendous amount of open ground. So you’ll need to set up close enough that a bobcat will feel comfortable to come to your call.

When it comes to wind direction for bobcats, you’ll find that opinions differ. I’ll give you mine – Always Hunt The Wind! I have seen bobcats circle to the downwind side of my FOXPRO on more than one occasion. I have also seen a bobcat enter my scent cone, get nervous, and run off without the opportunity to fire a shot. I have also called numerous coyotes (which never get a pass) while making bobcat stands. It doesn’t matter if I’m calling for bobcats, coyotes, or fox – I’m always hunting the wind.

SOUNDS & SOUND SEQUENCES

I definitely have favorite sounds that I like to use on bobcat stands. In my experiences of calling bobcats, I’ve become a big fan of cottontail distress sounds. That being said, I’ve called cats in on jackrabbit, snowshoe hare, and various bird sounds. I’ve actually had success calling in bobcats on over a dozen different FOXPRO sound files.

A general bobcat sequence that I like to run starts out light and builds in intensity throughout the sequence. I’ll usually run 3-4 different prey distress sound files resulting in a 15-25 minute stand depending on the location (most of the bobcats I call in show up under 8 minutes). For instance, I’ll start out with a sound such as “Bay Bee Cottontail.” I’ll run that sound for 4-6 minutes. If a cat doesn’t show, I’ll pause for 20-40 seconds and then go into an adult cottontail sound such as “Mrs. McCottontail.” Again, I’ll run that sound for 4-6 minutes. If a cat still doesn’t show I’ll pause for 20-40 seconds again and then go into a snowshoe hare sound such as “Snowshoe Hare HP.” If a bobcat still doesn’t show I’ll finish with a few minutes of a jackrabbit sound such as “Lightning Jack.” As you can see, I like to start out light and increase with intensity with each successive sound. I’ve learned over the years that if a bobcat doesn’t show on a sound played, they’ll usually show up rather quickly after the next sound starts up. It’s almost as if they are afraid they lost their chance to claim the rabbit and then charge in when another sound starts back up.

Over the last 2 years I’ve fallen in love with the new FOXPRO sound file “Mrs. McCottontail.” I’m starting to think that it might be the best bobcat calling sound file ever recorded. After watching 8 different bobcats show up while that sound was playing, I’ve henceforth started leading off with “Mrs. McCottontail.” I’ve recently tagged 2 bobcats that each came to the call in under 5 minutes to that sound.

CLOSING

It’s an amazing sight to witness a bobcat come to the call. Sometimes they sneak in, stalking your call. At times they will come running in just like a coyote. Other times one will show up out of nowhere just sitting there scanning the area. No matter how they come to the call you need to be ready to capitalize on the opportunity. I wish you the best of luck on your next bobcat stand.

Shoot straight and shoot often.

When you think of trophy whitetails, public land likely isn’t the first thought to pop into your head, and that’s understandable. However, monster bucks get taken off public tracts year after year, leaving us scratching our heads. Not all public lands are created equal, though. Some offer little resources to produce magazine-quality deer. Others are so highly pressured by hunters that you’ll likely see an orange vest before you see a buck. However, the Midwest has a reputation for its strictly managed public lands and vast agriculture that will make public land feel like whitetail heaven.

Ohio, in particular, is one of the best states in the nation for hunting public whitetails, with woods packed to the gills with the kind of trophy bucks you will be raving about for the rest of your life. Of course, Ohio is a big state, with numerous major cities and suburban areas, but it has quite a bit of public land available to deer hunters, much of which is home to big bucks. Here are some of the best public hunting tracts that every avid hunter needs to experience when coming to Ohio.

Check out the Ohio Department of Natural Resources (ODNR) for updated maps and info on Ohio hunting.

Woodbury Wildlife Area

If you ask a few Ohioans to point you toward a good slab of public deer hunting land, few spots will come up in your conversations as often as the Woodbury Wildlife Area. Located in Coshocton County, about an hour-and-a-half drive northeast of Columbus, the Woodbury Wildlife Area covers some 20,000 acres and is overflowing with trophy bucks.

Woodbury and Coshocton are popular spots for hunters and other nature enthusiasts, so you may have to take the less traveled paths to find the prime deer areas. Still, Woodbury is a beautiful piece of Ohio public land, and the adventure is worth it.

Dillon Wildlife Area

If the wide-open expanses of Woodbury sound appealing, but the crowds turn you off, then the Dillon Wildlife Area is a similar whitetail deer hunting area that you might be interested in.

The deer in this area are under moderate pressure from hunters. Considering Ohio’s hunting reputation, public lands like Dillon and Woodbury are in high demand for destination hunters—but it’s not too tricky to find less-traveled spots and the deer herds that take refuge there. The Dillon Wildlife Area is located in Nashport, just a half-hour jog from Woodbury, so you can quickly try both out on the same trip.

Conesville Coal Lands

The northeast region of Ohio is a thriving deer habitat, loaded with great places to set up camp and hunt. If you are heading to Coshocton for the Woodbury or Dillon Wildlife areas, complete the hat trick with the Conesville Coal Lands.

The hunting pressure on this 12,000-acre piece of land is slightly lower than the Woodbury or Dillon areas, partially because you need a permit to hunt here. Don’t be scared away by that statement, though: permits are free and can be picked up at local bait shops or secured online.

Shawnee State Forest

If you want public hunting land in Ohio but need to get away from the northeast triangle, head to southwest Ohio for the Shawnee State Forest area. At 60,000 acres, Shawnee is the single most extensive public forest area in Ohio and is a prime deer hunting spot as a result. Many Boone & Crockett bucks have been taken off this public tract, and it’s easy to see why.

The woods are thick and scattered with overgrown trees and plants, but if you are game for a more rugged hunting experience, there is little doubt that you can be successful here, especially during the gun season at the tail end of the rut.

Eagle Creek Wildlife Area

The Eagle Creek Wildlife Area was newly established as a public hunting tract in 2018. Two thousand three hundred acres may not seem like much, but nestled in between agriculture and thick timber, located in the heart of the famed Brown County, this is a spot you don’t want to overlook.

What makes this piece so unique, as well as a honey hole for mature bucks, is that it is a controlled access property. Only 65 people are drawn annually, allowing each hunter to spread out and have a great chance at harvesting a trophy whitetail.

READ MORE: The Best Time of the Day to Hunt Deer

Big bullets, big cartridges, and shmedium rifles.

Taking big game is one of the few areas that a standard AR-15 doesn’t do well in, but combine an AR with 450 Bushmaster and you have a whole new ballgame.

How does it stack up to a legendary classic like .308 Winchester? We got that info, ballistics, recommendations, and a lot more!

Sure, But Why

To a lot of you, this comparison might seem kind of… odd. I mean, even someone casually familiar with these two calibers can likely tell that these are not similar.

The answer is simple: A lot of readers are interested in this exact comparison. I don’t know why, but who am I to judge.

Y’all asked for it, so you get it.

Holla in the comments with more suggestions of what we should cover!

Story Behind The Cartridges

450 Bushmaster

Who likes big bullets and cannot lie? Jeff Cooper. The man touched many facets of the firearms world and this is yet one more where he left his mark.

While actually designed by Tim LeGendre of LeMAG Firearms, the inspiration for the idea came from Cooper’s support for a “Thumper” cartridge.

Basically, a “Thumper” was a big bullet moving as fast as they could push it so that an AR could take big game at 200ish yards.

Keep in mind that this was before things like the .458 SOCOM and .50 Beowulf were invented.

LeGendre designed what he called the .45 Professional and delivered an AR chambered in that to Cooper himself.

Bushmaster was highly interested in producing the new design, but they needed ammo for it.

When LeGendre approached Hornady about making ammo for it, they requested a slight change to the design of the case – shortening it slightly so they could load the 250gr SST in it.

The change was approved and the final cartridge was renamed to .450 Bushmaster.

.308 Winchester

After a cool story like 450 Bushmaster, the history of .308 Winchester can be kind of boring. Maybe I should have saved the good story for last… oh well.

Back in the 1940s 300 Savage was used for a series of tests for the US military, Frankford Arsenal (the actual US Arsenal, no connection to the brand/company that operates today) saw the tests and liked the results.

They started playing with the design a little and created a case that was slightly shorter, with a little less taper, and thicker walls.

Really liking what they saw, they lengthed the case back to its original specs. Using more modern powders (“modern” by 1940s standards) they created a cartridge that was effectively almost identical to the performance of milspec .30-06 Springfield but with a much smaller cartridge.

Smaller means lighter, lighter means you can carry more of it, so all in all – a lot better.

Winchester saw the potential for this new cartridge and introduced it to the hunting world in 1952.

Two short years later, NATO adopted the 7.62x51mm cartridge as a standard.

Practical Applications

450 Bushmaster

Hunting.

That’s it, that’s the list. The end.

Okay, 450 Bushmaster was designed as a hunting cartridge that could take big game (talking moose-sized “big”) at 200 yards or closer. And if nothing else, 450 Bushmaster does that.

If you’re in a fairly close environment and you need a really big bullet moving quickly to drop something large and four-legged, .450 Bushmaster is a solid option.

However, it comes with some major downsides that make it pretty much useless in all other applications.

Recoil is a beast. 250 grains moving at 2,200 FPS out of a 7ish pound AR means you’re getting the felt recoil roughly equivalent to 12ga slugs.

You can mitigate this with a brake and a good stock, but it’s still a hard hitter.

While you can do things like zeroing at 200 yards to have a point-blank zero out to that distance, 450 Bushmaster is an elephant fighting gravity – and it ain’t no Dumbo.

You are very limited on range and 250 yards starts to push it.

While it starts off with almost 2700 ft.lbf at the muzzle, 450 Bushmaster falls below 1,000 ft.lbf before it hits 300 yards.

.308 Winchester

Everything.

Because of the age of the cartridge and how widely it was adopted by NATO, the military, LEO, and more, .308 Winchester can do basically everything.

Hunting? Oh ya, .308 Winchester has taken every game animal in North America in droves.

Long range precision? Sure, while newer 6mm cartridges are the newest hotness, .308 Win is still widely used by sport shooters, LEO, and competition shooters – although most people running .308 Win in competition do so in special divisions built for it.

SHTF? .308 Win can take game, defend your post-apocalypse bunker, put down mutants (I mean, probably), and is so massively produced and used that refilling your stockpile should be fairly easy.

You can handload .308 Win with every type of bullet under the sun, you can find factory ammo for it in every gunstore and bait shop in the nation, you can find replacement parts basically everywhere, and any rifle you want that is large enough can and probably does come with a .308 Win option.

It is the definitive do-all cartridge in North America.

I would argue that 6.5 Creedmoor is better, but there is no denying that .308 Winchester has achieved unparalleled success. [For more on that, check out our article 6.5 Creedmoor vs 308.]

Ballistics

The real meat and potatoes of these comparisons are how they actually stack up against each other ballistically. Well, in most ways – .308 Win kicks the snot out of 450 Bushmaster.

At the muzzle they are basically the same, .308 Win has around 2700 ft.lbf and 450 Bushmaster has just a few pounds under that.

The big difference is that .308 Winchester keeps at least 1,000 ft.lbf out to about 600 yards, 450 Bushmaster loses it by 300 yards.

While .308 can reach out accurately to 1,200 yards (if you’re pretty good), 450 Bushmaster is on life support by the time it gets past 500.

[To learn more about 450 Bushmaster ballistics and why it was created, see our recent article]

AR-10 Vs. AR-15

I’m going to assume that you’re looking at both of these calibers in an AR platform. While both can be found in bolt-action rifles also, 450 Bushmaster in a bolt gun is kind of silly.

The AR-10 is at least a couple of pounds heavier than an AR-15. It’s larger, less handy, and can quickly become a beast to hike with.

Generally speaking, an AR-10 is also more expensive to build or buy.

This is why “thumper” cartridges like 450 Bushmaster, 458 SOCOM, and 50 Beowulf exist. They give you basically the same punch as a short-action cartridge (at least for a couple of hundred yards) but keep the package small.

Personally, I say get both.

Wild Animal Defense

I’m a big believer in the idea that guns are not your best defense against most wild animals. For black bears, nothing beats a hiking song and some bear spray. For mountain lions, bringing a mule is technically the best but a hiking song and a sharp stick is a decent second option.

However, there are those times when nothing else will do. Maybe you tend animals that are looking really juicy this time of year, maybe you have a particularly mean set of critters in your area, whatever the case – you need a bigger stick.

.450 Bushmaster is one hell of a stick and in this role, it can really shine.

Most of the professional guides I’ve spoken with that live and hike in grizzly country say they choose a 12ga 3” magnum slugs as their last line of defense against a bear – that gives them about 2950 ft.lbf at the muzzle.

450 Bushmaster comes in around 2700 ft.lbf… but you can have 10 rounds in a magazine and less recoil.

If grizzly is your worst-case scenario, you might want to really consider a 450 Bushmaster or some other thumper as your next move.

What Is Better?

If you can stand the size and weight of an AR-10, then 308 Winchester is the clear winner.

But if you need something smaller and lighter – 450 Bushmaster is the ticket.

Really though, 450 Bushmaster is basically in the exact same boat as 50 Beowulf and .458 SOCOM.

They are all basically the same ballistically, they all have basically the same amount of ammo per magazine, they all cost basically the same, and more or less have the same issues.

I would give .458 SOCOM a slight edge in terms of reliability, but everything else really isn’t enough difference to make a difference.

Converting An AR-15 To 450 Bushmaster

The easy method is a new upper and modifying your magazines.

Magazines are standard AR-15 5.56 NATO mags, but with a new single stack follower. You can also get a dedicated 450 Bushmaster magazine.

For the upper, you’ll need a new barrel and a new bolt. 450 Bushmaster and .458 SOCOM use the same bolt face so it’s pretty easy to find.

A normal BCG can be used, it just needs the new bolt.

Overall, like most other AR conversions – 450 Bushmaster is pretty easy.

[Of course you can also buy a 450 Bushmaster complete upper and all the work is done for you. Just drop it on your standard AR-15 lower, pop 2 pins, and you’re ready to rock!]

Parting Shots

When it comes down to it – the “thumper” cartridges are all basically the same, just slightly different flavors.

If you need one, pick the one you like most and go for it!

But .308 Winchester will give you a lot more options and a lot more range. But that comes at the cost of a heavier rifle.

Let me know what you picked!

And let us know what caliber comparisons you want to see next!

There are several reasons people learn how to preserve a dead bird. It is often because they can’t bear to part with theirs or want to keep a dead bird to study.

Whatever the reason for preserving a bird is, it is crucial to do it right the first time. There is no room for trial and error here because, most times, you only have one specimen and one chance to do it.

This article will discuss some of the best ways to preserve a bird and why people do it. Read on.

How to Preserve a Dead Bird

It is hard to witness the death of a bird, even more so to decide what to do next. Fortunately, you have the option to preserve the bird and keep them in shape close to how they were before.

Is it hard to preserve birds? The answer is no. Luckily, it is easy to do the preservation process on your own. In addition, you can find most of the items and tools you need around your home.

Here are two ways you can proceed with bird preservation.

Bird Preservation With Borax

Things To Prepare:

Step 1: Wear your safety gear and prep the bird

Slip on your gloves and goggles. Collect the bird and remove any debris or dirt from it.

Step 2: Coat the bird inside the bag with borax

Coat the inside of the garbage bag with a bit of Borax. Put the bird in and sprinkle enough Borax to coat the bird. Adjust the amount according to the size of the bird.

Step 3: Place the bird in the shoebox and rub more borax

Transfer the bird to the shoebox. Check for any part without Borax and rub them with the powder.

Step 4: Let it dry and dust the Borax off the bird

Once the bird is thoroughly covered in borax, leave it to dry for a month. After four weeks, use a paintbrush to remove the powder. It is then ready for display.

Bird Preservation With Salt and Bleach

Things To Prepare:

Step 1: Suit up for safety and clean the bird

Wear your mask and gloves before removing the dirt from the bird. Carefully sand its feet and legs.

Step 2: Create a water and bleach mixture for the bird

Change your gloves. Mix a part of bleach with two parts of water. Place the bird in the container and add the mixture, making sure that it covers the whole bird.

Step 3: Let it soak, then add the salt mixture

Leave the bird with the mixture for a whole day. Once finished, remove the bird and clean the container. Concoct another mixture with half a gallon of water and 2 cups of salt. Return the bird to the container and add the liquid to preserve it.

Step 4: Soak again before air drying

Let the bird soak again for another 24 hours. Next, remove the bird and air dry. Make sure it dries thoroughly before displaying it.

FAQs

The Benefits Of Preserving Dead Bird

Why do people preserve dead birds? It is because one wants to save a dead bird of paradise they found and keep their beauty for a long time. Pet owners also preserve their beloved birds to remember them.

Preserving birds can be traced back several centuries ago. In the days of Charles Darwin, preservation was done to keep the specimen in a state where the following generations could admire and study them. This way, people can get to know rare and endangered avians.

Other Types Of Bird Preservation Methods And How To Choose One

We shared with you two bird preservation methods: using borax and using salt. Aside from these, there are other ways to preserve a dead bird for display. You can try:

Deciding which one works best for you will depend on several factors. Getting rid of the bird’s internal organ and stuffing its body with cotton balls or straw, a method called taxidermy, is the perfect technique for lifelike results.

On the other hand, the freeze-drying methods are what most pet owners go for because of their realistic outcomes. However, freezing a dead bird requires patience, as it is a long process that takes approximately seven months.

To those who cannot afford the waiting, skinning the bird is faster as it takes only a few days. The only downside is, you cannot preserve dead bird bones or the whole bird, but only its skin or hide.

Another procedure used for taxidermy is embalming. This is a widely used approach to preserving the bird and is one of the top choices alongside taxidermy and freeze-drying. Embalming takes less time, but it demands focus and attention.

Egyptians used this last method and worked perfectly in preserving your bird. It can keep a bird in excellent condition even after decades or even a hundred years.

The Cost To Preserve Dead Bird

If you want to reach out to a professional taxidermist to preserve your pet bird, the service will cost you $500 to $2,000.

The number varies depending on the size of the bird, if you want fast service, and other factors. For a small bird, you can expect to spend $500 as a starting point. It is always best to ask for the pricing before anything else.

How to preserve feathers from a dead bird?

You can preserve dead bird wings in four steps!

How to preserve bird feet?

If you want to preserve turkey feet, follow Borax’s bird preservation tutorial. Other methods you can try are:

Remove feathers from a dead bird before proceeding with preserving its feet.

Conclusion

We hope that with this article; you learned how to preserve a dead bird and understand its importance. Now, you have an option other than burying a dead bird.

Whether you want to preserve a dead songbird or your favorite pet, come back to this and refer to it as your guide. If you know someone interested in learning how to preserve a deceased bird, share this with them.

Have you done bird preservation before? How was your experience? How did it turn out? We want to hear about it, so comment below for us to read!

It’s common to come across a dead bird on the ground, but have you ever wondered what it could mean? please take a look at this article and see now 7 steps to dispose of a dead bird.

Home | Category: Reef Fish

LARGE REEF REEF PREDATORS

Black tip reef sharks and white tip reef sharks are commonly seen at reefs. There have been few reports of human attacks. Scuba divers tend to seek them out rather than avoid them. See Sharks

There are many species of predator in the reef. Sometimes they prey on the smallest of fish and it is hard to think of them as predators. Squirrel fish are predators that spend much of the day in reef crevasses. Trevallies, or jacks are medium-size predators that travel in schools. Reef skimmers and snappers have piranha-like teeth.

Several species of fish are often seen in the company of large predators. Pilot fish are small- to medium size fish with black stripes are that are often swim with fish such as sharks and rays. The large fish help the pilot fish by protecting them from potential predators and the pilot fish return the favor by feeding on parasites on the sharks.

Remoras use their suckers to hitch rides on sharks, whales, turtles, rays, dolphins almost any fish or sea mammal that is large enough to carry them. The they have a sucking disk under their head The sucker allows the fish to save energy. It is not used to suck blood like a lamprey, its is merely a fastening devise Its host provided with transport and gill venilable and protection from predators and food scraps. In return the remora cleans off parasites from its host’s skin.

Related Articles: Groupers: Characteristics, Behavior and Big Species ioa.factsanddetails.com ; Groupers in the Atlantic, Caribbean and Gulf of Mexico ioa.factsanddetails.com ; Reef Sharks: Blacktip, Whitetip and Grey Reef Sharks ioa.factsanddetails.com ; Lemon Sharks: Characteristics, Behavior, Feeding, Mating ioa.factsanddetails.com ; Nurse Sharks: Characteristics, Behavior, Feeding, Mating, Attacks ioa.factsanddetails.com ; CORAL REEFS ioa.factsanddetails.com ; CORAL REEF LIFE ioa.factsanddetails.com REEF FISH ioa.factsanddetails.com

See Sharks

Websites and Resources: Animal Diversity Web (ADW) animaldiversity.org; National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) noaa.gov; Fishbase fishbase.se ; Encyclopedia of Life eol.org ; Smithsonian Oceans Portal ocean.si.edu/ocean-life-ecosystems ; Woods Hole Oceanographic Institute whoi.edu ; Cousteau Society cousteau.org ; Monterey Bay Aquarium montereybayaquarium.org ; MarineBio marinebio.org/oceans/creatures

Grunts, Hawkfish, Snappers and Jacks

Spanish grunts, snappers, porkfish and French grunts hunt the reef alone looking for crustaceans and small fish. Spanish grunts sometimes feed on sea urchins, whose spines leave behind a purple stain on the grunts’s face.[Source: Walter A. Stark II, National Geographic. December 1972 ╆]

Bluestriped grunts sometimes approach each other with their mouths wide open, looking as if they about to kiss or swallow each others face. No one is sure why these foot-long fish do this although scientist speculate it is a male territorial thing.╆

The 35 species of hawkfish are found in tropical waters and tend to lie on the sea bottom around coral and rocky reefs, waiting for prey come by, snatching them when they do. They feed mainly on crustaceans and small fish. If they feel threatened they use their pectoral fins to lodge themselves in a crevice making it difficult for predators to get at them and extract them. The fish tend to live on their own. Sometimes males form harems in their territory.

Jacks swim in schools during the day for protection against barracuda and other predators and separate at night to hunt smaller fish. Sometimes they rotate in near perfect gyres when they school.

Red snappers can are among the more aggressive predators on the reef, The have need sharp teeth and a voracious hunger and reach lengths of 70 centimeters. unless provoked. Red snapper is a name used to describe many species of fish served up at restaurants. They are not necessarily the ones you find at the reef. The American red snapper reaches a weigh of 35 pounds but is usually eaten when it weighs 10 pounds. Adults live around rocky reefs. Juveniles along sandy or muddy bottoms. They are often caught by dredges on shrimp trawlers.

Groupers

Groupers are generally solitary predators. Like other predatory fish such as barracuda, they are most active at dawn and dusk. Some prefer deep waters. Others are found in warm, shallow coastal waters, often in coral reefs and sometimes in estuaries. Groupers have been described as patient hunters because they like to lurk in caves or crevices and wait for a crustacean or slow-moving fish to pass their way and then lunge, open their large mouth and suck in the prey. Coral groupers catch fish with the suction created when it opens its huge mouth.

Groupers live for a long time and reproduce for short periods. Some species gather in large groups to spawn. Groupers tend to be fond of spiny lobster and also frequently eat crabs, small fish and juvenile sea turtle. When they are young they are fed on by other predators but if they manage to make it to adulthood the only real threat they face comes from humans.

There are several species of grouper. The giant grouper, which lives in the Indian Ocean and the western and central Pacific, is one of the largest species and is known to occasionally feed on small sharks. Other large species include the jewfish and goliath grouper. Many kinds of groupers can change their color to match their surrounding. Some species register victory or defeat by changing color.

See Separate Articles: GROUPERS: CHARACTERISTICS, BEHAVIOR AND BIG SPECIES ioa.factsanddetails.com GROUPERS IN THE ATLANTIC, CARIBBEAN AND GULF OF MEXICO ioa.factsanddetails.com

Trevallies

Trevallies are large marine fish in the Carangidae jack family that often travel in schools. They are is classified within the genus Caranx, that includes of a number of groups known as jacks. Caranx itself is part of the larger jack and horse mackerel family Carangidae, which in turn is part of the order Carangiformes. [Source: Wikipedia]

Trevallies are relatively big fish with a wide body. They have ovate, moderately compressed bodies with the dorsal profile more convex than the ventral profile, particularly anteriorly. The dorsal fin of the giant trevally is in two parts, the first consisting of eight spines and the second of one spine followed by 18 to 21 soft rays. The anal fin consists of two anteriorly detached spines followed by one spine and 15 to 17 soft rays. The pelvic fins contain 1 spine and 19 to 21 soft rays. The caudal fin is strongly forked, and the pectoral fins are falcate, being longer than the length of the head. The lateral line has a pronounced and moderately long anterior arch, with the curved section intersecting the straight section below the lobe of the second dorsal fin.

Giant Trevally

The giant trevally (Caranx ignobilis), also known as the lowly trevally, barrier trevally, giant kingfish or ulua, It is found throughout the tropical waters of the Indo-Pacific region, from South Africa in the west to Hawaii in the east, Japan in the north and Australia in the south.[Source: Wikipedia]

The giant trevally is distinguished by its steep head profile and strong tail scutes. It is normally a silvery colour with occasional dark spots. Males are sometimes black once they mature. The largest fish in the Caranx genus, it reaches lengths of 170 centimeters (67 inches) and a weight of 80 kilograms (176 pounds). The fish inhabits a wide range of marine environments, from estuaries, shallow bays and lagoons as a juvenile to deeper reefs, offshore atolls and large embayments as adults. Juveniles tend to live in waters of very low salinity such as coastal lakes and upper reaches of rivers, and tend to prefer turbid waters.

The giant trevally is an apex predator in most of its habitats, and is known to hunt individually and in schools. It mainly eats fish of various kinds but also preys on crustaceans, cephalopods (octopus, squid and cuttlefish) and molluscs, making up a significant portion of its diet in some regions. Among its interesting hunting strategies are following monk seals to pick off escaping prey and using sharks to ambush prey.

Footage shown in the 2017 documentary series “Blue Planet II”, shot in the Farquhar Atoll in the Seychelles, shows a group of approximately 50 giant trevally hunting fledgling terns learning to fly and crash landing and the fish taking birds, including adults, that flew low enough over the water for the fish to grab them.

The giant trevally reproduces in the warmer months, with peaks differing by region. Spawning occurs at specific stages of the lunar cycle, when large schools congregate to spawn over reefs and bays. The fish grows relatively fast, reaching sexual maturity at a length of around 60 centimeters at three years of age.

The giant trevally is both an important commercial fish and sport fish, with 4,000-10,000 tonnes of the fish caught in the the Asian region. The taste of the fish varies from poor to excellent depending on the source. Despite having relatively low numbers in some places,the fish has been designated as a species of least concern by the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN).

Bluefin Trevally

The bluefin trevally(Caranx melampygus) is also known as the bluefin jack, bluefin kingfish, bluefinned crevalle, blue ulua, omilu, and spotted trevally. It is found throughout tropical waters of the Indian and Pacific Oceans, ranging from Eastern Africa in the west to Central America in the east, Japan in the north and Australia in the south. The bluefin trevally is sought after by both commercial and recreational fishermen. It has been designated as a species of least concern by the IUCN.[Source: Wikipedia]

The bluefin trevally reaches the length of 117 centimeters (46 inches) and a weight of 43.5 kilograms (96 pounds), however ones over 80 centimeters (31 inches) are rare. It is easily recognized by its electric blue fins, tapered snout and numerous blue and black spots on their sides and inhabits both inshore environments such as bays, lagoons and shallow reefs, as well as deeper offshore reefs, atolls and bomboras. Juveniles prefer shallower, protected waters, even entering estuaries for short periods in some places.

The bluefin trevally is a powerful predatory fish that mainly eats fish but also consumes cephalopods and crustaceans as an adult. It uses a wide array of hunting techniques ranging from reef ambushes, midwater attacks and foraging on prey missed by larger species (See Above). The bluefin trevally reproduces at different periods throughout its range, and reaches sexual maturity at 30-40 centimeters in length and around two years of age. It is a multiple spawner, capable of reproducing up to 8 times per year, releasing up to 6 million eggs per year in captivity. The fish reaches 19.4 centimeters in its first year, 34 in the second and 45.6 centimeters in the third year.

Trevally’s Extraordinary Hunting Skills

Trevallies are fast swimmers and feed mainly on fish. Two studies of adult giant trevallies in Hawaii found fish to be the main food type, making up over 95 percent of the trevally’s stomach contents. Most of the fish were small reef-dwelling wrasses (Labridae), goatfishes (Mullidae), parrotfish (Scaridae) and bigeyes (Priacanthidae). Trevallies seem to have a preference for fish of a specific size, which depends on their own length and age.

Trevally displays a wide and innovative array of hunting techniques, ranging from midwater attacks to ambushs to working with other species of fish. fish. The bluefin trevally hunts during the day, particularly at dawn and dusk as a solitary individual and in groups of up to 20 members. Most prefer the lone wolf approach. In groups, they fish rush their schools of prey fish, breaking up the school and picking off isolated individuals. Giant trevallies in captivity have been observed doing the same thing. In some instances, only one individual in a group attacks the prey school. When hunting in midwater, trevally swim both against and with the current but mostly with it,

The stealthy barcheek trevally sometimes hides behind large non-threatening fish such as triggerfish and darts out from its hiding place to snag prey unafraid of the clown triggerfish. When in ambush attack mode the blue trevally change colour to a dark pigmentation state and hides behind large coral lumps close to where the aggregations (often spawning reef fish) occur. Once the prey is close enough to the hiding spot, the fish ram the base of the school, before chasing down individual fish. Bluefin trevally also enter lagoons as the tide rises to hunt small baitfish in the shallow confines, leaving as the tide falls. The species is also known to follow large rays, sharks and other foraging fish such as goatfish and wrasse around sandy substrates, waiting to pounce on any disturbed crustaceans or fish which are flushed out by the larger fish.

Barracuda

Barracuda are strong, fast-moving predators that have few enemies other than large sharks. They have a long muscular body, a large head, long snout, a forward-projecting jaw and scary-looking spike-like teeth. They are found in all the world’s oceans, although they seem to be biggest and most plentiful in the Caribbean.

Barracuda can reach lengths of two meters and weigh up to 50 kilograms although usually they are around one meter or a little more in length. They tend to stay close to the surface in warm waters and are rarely seen in cold water or below a depth of 100 meters. Juveniles are sometimes found in large groups but most of the time adults are found in small groups or alone. Many fisherman used to think that barracudas were closely related to pikes because of the similarity in their body form.

Barracuda look menacing and are very curious. They often follow divers around, but they rarely attack anyone. Fish don’t have it so easy. When a barracuda clamps its jaws around a snapper divers have said they heard the crunching of bone under water.

If you go snorkeling or diving in waters with barracuda, don’t wear glimmering metal objects like jewelry or a watch; barracuda are attracted to these things and you. Also don’t provoke the, A barracuda bite can cause serious injury. often her stories about women wearing anklets whose feet were attacked when they dangled in the water. Such attacks often occur in murky eater when the barracuda mistakes the jewelry for a fish.

Barracuda’s long body and sharp teeth are adapted for swimming fast for short periods of time and biting. attacks by lying relatively motionless and then suddenly lunging forward. To grab prey. They are most active at dawn and dusk. Barracudas catch prey by circling round a school and choosing a moment when they might be confused, especially around dusk to dawn and biting a skalsing and hoping to snag a confused fish

Some people like the taste of Great barracuda meat but ciguaterra is an issue with the fish. Large individuals in particular can cause ciguatera poisoning,a serious illness that can result in some severe nausea and other nasty symptoms, sometimes even death. Very little barracuda meat is eaten in the United States.

The barracuda belong to the genus Sphyraena, which contains 29 species. Among them are the Sharpfin barracuda, Arabian barracuda, Pacific barracuda, Great barracuda, Northern sennet, Yellowstripe barracuda, Mexican barracuda, Yellowtail barracuda, Bigeye barracuda, Pelican barracuda, Japanese barracuda, Australian barracuda, Red barracuda, Sawtooth barracuda, European barracuda and Yellowmouth barracuda,

Great Barracuda

Great barracuda (Scientific name: Sphyraena barracuda) have an average lifespan in captivity is 14 years. They are found in tropical waters in the Indian Ocean, Atlantic Ocean and western Pacific Ocean. They have been found in the Red Sea and as far north as Massachusetts in the Atlantic. They are often seen in the Caribbean Sea and prefer clear water with temperatures between 23 and 28 degrees C (74 and 82 degrees F), although they have been found in much colder water. Few people like to fish them although they can put up a good fight. Great barracudas can be dangerous and have attacked snorkelers and divers.[Source: Brianne Fuller, Animal Diversity Web (ADW) /=]

You can typically find great barracudas in reefs or other coastal areas. Adult live in and around the edges of coral reefs and tend to avoid brackish water unless they are preparing to spawn. Post-larvae live on the margins of and in the estuaries where they are protected. When they get large enough to protect themselves, they head to open ocean and later to the margins of the coral reefs./=

Great barracuda at all ages eat other fish. Their large teeth are quite useful for snagging prey. They hunt using both sit-in-wait and active predator styles. As juveniles, they fish compete with needlefishes and small snapper for food, which consists of killifishes, herrings, sardines, gobies, silversides, anchovies small mullets, and lizardfishes. As the barracuda get older and bigger, they may compete with larger fish like mackerel, or even dolphins, depending on their habitat. Then great barracuda feed on both bottom-dwelling species as well as species of the higher water column, They been observed herding schools of fish into shallow water and guarding them and eating them when their last meal is digested and they are hungry again

Great Barracuda Characteristics and Behavior

Great barracuda are large, long fish with two widely separate dorsal fins. They can reach a length of around two meters. Their average weight is 40 kilograms (88.11 pounds). According to Animal Diversity Web: They have large scales and a pointed head with a large mouth and long knife-like teeth. Great barracuda have a large gape, which allows them to feed on very large fish by chopping them in half. Their lower jaw project forward more than the upper one and this is helpful in biting. Their bodies are grayish brown above and silvery below.They often have dark ink-like spots that are arranged in no pattern on their sides. The young have dark crossbars on their backs and blotches on their sides. The young also have a soft dorsal fin and the anal and caudal fins can be blackish. Males and females are roughly the same in size, shape and coloration. [Source: Brianne Fuller, Animal Diversity Web (ADW) /=]

Great barracuda sense using touch and chemicals usually detected with smell. They tend to be solitary fish as adults, especially at night. But juveniles and adults are often observed traveling in schools during the day. Groups of hundreds and even thousands of great barracudas have been observed but are rarely seen. They kill compulsively and destroy more than they eat. Most often, great barracudas attack humans only when provoked. /=

Great Barracuda Mating

barracuda Great barracuda oviparous (young are hatched from eggs) and iteroparous (offspring are produced in groups). Reproduction is external, meaning the male’s sperm fertilizes the female’s egg outside her body. On average females reach sexual or reproductive maturity at age 1460 days while males do so in 730 days. [Source: Brianne Fuller, Animal Diversity Web (ADW) /=]

According to Animal Diversity Web: It is still unclear about the timing and location of spawning of great barracuda. Some research reports that they spawn in the spring. Others claim that they spawn in association with particular phases of the moon. Still others claim that great barracudas spawn throughout the year with the exception of the winter months when it is cooler. It may be that great barracudas show different spawning patterns in different areas of the world. /=

Great barracuda do not care for their fertilized eggs. They are left to drift out into the ocean and eventually take form. When the fish spawn they enter shallow waters such as estuaries. The larvae hatches and seeks shallow weedy areas on the margins of clear-water estuaries. When the larvae reach a length of about 80 millimeters they move to the deeper waters of adjacent reed beds. At about 300 millimeters they move to open waters and eventually they move out of the estuaries completely at about 500 millimeters in length.

Image Sources: Wikimedia Commons; YouTube, Animal Diversity Web, NOAA

Text Sources: Animal Diversity Web (ADW) animaldiversity.org; National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) noaa.gov; Wikipedia, National Geographic, Live Science, BBC, Smithsonian, New York Times, Washington Post, Los Angeles Times, The New Yorker, Reuters, Associated Press, Lonely Planet Guides and various books and other publications.

Last Updated March 2024

Here are four ways to try controlling scent on your hunting clothes this season, and two that maybe you should avoid.

Whether you are trying to get the human scent off of your deer hunting clothes, or trying to add some that could change the game, we all know one thing when it comes to our favorite quarry: their noses rule and we have to try and beat them!

Deer will see you, hear you and smell your human odor before you ever know that they are there. Turn the tide with some of these tried-and-true, but not very well-known methods of adding scent to your clothes.

They just might fool that big whitetail into thinking you’re something else.

1. Pack it in the pines

First, get over to the dollar store and pick up some of those small, drawstring, linen jewelry pouches. Next, get yourself outside and find the nearest set of pine trees.

Now, fill the bags with green needles and pack them in every inch of your hunting clothes. You really can’t overdo it too much, as pine scent is so very prevalent in most wooded areas. Pack everything in a new garbage bag and let it simmer.

Once you take your clothes out and start hunting, leave the pouches in the bag and put your clothes back in to store for the next hunt.

2. Add some smoke and ash

Like baking soda, ash is a great odor remover, and you can basically use it in the same way. You can bag it the same way, but you’ll have to be more careful working with it. You’ll want to start outside at the fire pit, and since you’re there, start a fire!

Bring some of your other items that you want to get ready for your hunt and let them get some of that smoke “flavor” as well. Deer aren’t spooked by smoke and it’s a great cover-up. I know people that swear by smoking little cigars when they hunt, so why not the natural stuff?

3. Put some oak fruit on it

I hunt the oaks. There’s an oak bottom swamp I’ve been hunting for the last 10 years that has deer trails running in and out of it like an eight-cylinder piston with acorns everywhere.

I’ve learned that above and beyond making my clothes scent-free, adding a little acorn scent is like cooking a steak on the grill to us. Use the garbage bag method and toss in some cotton balls that have been dressed with one dip of the bottle of acorn scent. Too much can be a bad thing with this as you don’t want to stink like an acorn factory.

4. Have it there waiting for you

What smells more like your hunting area than… your hunting area? It needs to be done after a frost or in colder weather. It is best in the more northern climates as insect penetration can happen if you’re not careful.

You’ll need to check the weather to determine just how long you could leave it out there. I’ll leave my coat and bibs out overnight at least as they’re the last thing I’ll put on anyway.

Now, here are two ways that I used for years that I do not recommend for obvious reasons. Ticks carrying Lyme disease present a real danger nowadays, and it’s no longer feasible to try these methods, but to each their own.

Since it’s not easy for most to take their clothes out into the woods to get that natural smell that we all want, you might try this at your own risk.

5. Put it on the wood pile

Again, wait for the first real frost. I always liked to put it on there in a way that I could leave it for days at a time. There’s nothing I like more than fresh oak or ash logs split and ready to burn except when they’re leaving their scent on my hunting clothes.

6. Bury it in the leaves

Leaf litter is everywhere. It might be the most natural smelling thing you could use to make your outerwear the stuff that will bend that big buck’s nose the other way while you’re right in front of him.

I used to put my clothes on the wood pile and then bury it with leaves! Since your yard is probably full of them and you’re sick of raking it all, try putting it to good use.

Given that we’re all looking for an edge, maybe one of these methods will help you to get a little closer to your buck. After all, success is what we’re all chasing out there and maybe this will help!

All photos by Craig Raleigh

NEXT: 11 THINGS THAT EVERY DEER HUNTER DIDN’T KNOW THEY NEEDED

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Hog Sounds for Hunting

Creating hog sounds for hunting is a crucial element to have success on your next hog hunt. In the past few years, several studies have been done to determine the effects various sounds have on wild hogs. The findings reflect a fact I have known most of my life: hogs are especially responsive to what they hear. Sounds they respond to vary. It could be a twig snapping when a hunter stalks within bow range of a sounder of wild hogs. It could be the low guttural grunts of a sow in estrus. Or it may be the squeal of a piglet in distress. Sounds are definitely a trigger that causes wild hogs to respond with various actions. While the sound of a distressed piglet could cause an entire sounder to charge, the “courting grunts” might be ignored by all but a boar in breeding mode. And boar hogs are always on the outlook for a receptive sow.

I’ve spent a good bit of time around hogs, both wild and domestic. I learned as a boy that hogs will come running to—or away—from certain sounds. My dad raised domestic hogs. Each fall, when the acorn crop hit the ground, he let the hogs out to fatten on the abundant free crop. Because he wanted to keep check on the porkers, he trained them to the sound of the honking car horn on our old International pickup. I can still see those hogs bounding out of the woods on our little farm, heading toward that honking sound, and the ears of dried corn they knew awaited them.

My electronic call had been emitting the sounds of a distressed piglet for several minutes.

Summer Night Calling For Hogs Has Never Been Easier

Then, out in front of my calling position came a sounder of 10 or 12 wild hogs charging straight toward me. I watched them come from a couple hundred yards along the edge of a cut-over corn field. They came within about 40 yards when they stopped, bristles up on the backs of the sows. They paused long enough for me to settle the crosshairs right behind the jaw, in the center of the neck, on a good “eater” sow weighing about 120 pounds.

While this was a calling session that went perfectly, I can also tell you about times when I tried every sound on the caller’s library and had no sign of a porker. Like calling any other game animal, using sound to entice hogs to within shooting range is not an exact science. But, when it works, few things in the outdoors are more exciting!

A Hog Hunting Boom

When the wild hog boom hit full scale in Texas around 1980, I was already a seasoned hog hunter. Being raised in northeast Texas between the Red and Sulphur Rivers, I knew about hunting wild porkers.

About 40 years ago when hog hunting suddenly became a “thing,” folks from far and wide began pouring into Texas to hunt hogs with outfitters. Many of them leased land specifically for hog hunting. At about this time I had my first “official” training in the art of using a call to bring porkers within range of my bow or rifle. I had a good friend from southeast Texas who was a major duck hunter, and he built his own waterfowl calls. He also loved hunting hogs. When he called one day to say he had developed a new way of hunting hogs, I was all ears (no pun)!

Hog Sounds for hunting from Outdoor Specialty Media Group on Vimeo.

My buddy hunted near the Louisiana border on leased land having some very heavy cover. Lots of switch cane grew along the creeks there, and that provided perfect cover for the area’s large number of wild porkers. Because the hogs had made well-worn trails through the vegetation, their travel routes were easy to find.

We determined that the key to success would be to hunt mid-day when the sounders of hogs were bedded back in the thick stuff. We would ease to the edge of the cover, get within bow range, and either find some natural cover to hide behind or quickly fashion makeshift blinds with machetes.

Sound Success

After that, my friend would go to work with that call. He always started with a series of contented grunts like the sounds that undisturbed, feeding hogs make. Occasionally, he’d create a pig squeal, the sound smaller pigs make when being slapped around by bigger hogs. He would also throw in deeper grunts and what he called a courtship call, which was a fast series of softer grunts.

Once he started, he didn’t stop until he either ran out of breath or we shot a hog. Once I learned that wild hogs would readily come to a variety of sounds, I began using his calls and enjoying success. I have found that regardless of the type of call being used, the key to success is simply being within hogs’ hearing distance.

Later, I discovered electronic calls with speakers that could either emit calls at a soft volume or blast sounds out to distant hogs. The first electronic calls I used were cassette tapes. They worked better for me than the mount-blown calls I previously used. The actual sounds were probably recorded from a pen of domestic hogs rather than squeals and grunts made by hogs in the wild. I did enjoy limited success, especially when hunting areas of heavy cover. There I could get relatively close to spots where I expected the porkers to be.

Next-Level Hog Calls

With today’s technology, calling wild hogs has been taken to the next level. For the past several years, I have used an electronic call made by Convergent Hunting Solutions called “The Bullet HP.” As anyone with experience calling game knows, the animals don’t always come running, regardless of how good the call sounds. This holds true with everything from predators to waterfowl.

However, I’ve learned that the odds of getting a wild hog within shooting range are very good. I’d estimate them as being about 60 percent for times when I’m calling in areas nearby the hogs. I usually can at least bring them out of cover. Getting them out into the open for a killing shot is sometimes a different matter, though. Especially considering the heavy cover areas where I often hunt.

When I’ve been hunting relatively open ranchland, I’ve watched hogs come from several hundred yards to the sound of the call when I turn the speaker to high volume. Lone boars often come in slowly, stopping frequently with their snout in the air to test the wind. Sometimes sounders of hogs with sows come in at a gallop to the sound of what they think is a piglet in distress.

Set Up Downwind

Because of hogs’ excellent sense of smell, it’s important to set up downwind of the area where you are calling. While hogs are not nearly as sensitive to movement as turkeys or deer are, don’t think for a minute that they can’t see well. Especially when you’re positioned in open cover. One reason many people think hogs are “half-blind” is that they are low to the ground, so weeds and brush often limit their vision. I have experienced having hogs who were out in the open spook when they spotted me 300 yards away. Rather than set up a portable blind when calling, I usually fashion a brush blind or just conceal myself in cover. First, I make sure I have good visibility out in front and to the sides of my setup.

Effective Calling

I’ve found the distressed piglet sound to be very effective in triggering a response from a sounder of hogs. The sound of an aggressive boar or boar fight can also be effective, especially for calling in boars. I’ve noticed one thing that’s true for boar hogs, much as it is for Whitetail bucks. You can often see a “satellite” younger buck skirting around an area where there’s a receptive doe. Most likely hoping to move in on it while other “big boys” are battling. On many occasions, I’ve had younger boars skirt the area around my calling location. The big porkers will usually come straight toward the sound instead. They won’t be at a dead run, but they usually come straight toward the call with a cautious, stop-and-go gait.

Choice of Caliber

Much of my calling has been done during daylight hours, although hunting after the sun sets can be extremely exciting. I have an AGM Rattler thermal scope mounted on my little .223 bolt action Mossberg Patrol rifle for night hunting. Some folks say my caliber choice is too light for hunting hogs. That might be so if shooting running hogs at several hundred yards. But for close work, when I can place my shots in the neck just behind the ear, I’ve found it works great. I love wild pork and have found this caliber and shot placement destroys very little meat. I also don’t have to spend time searching for wounded hogs in the dark.

In Conclusion

Calling wild hogs is just another tool for putting meat in the freezer. If you are new to this idea, you might want to give it a try. Hog hunting isn’t quite as simple as setting up your electronic caller, hitting a button on your cell phone to trigger an app, flipping the safety off your rifle, and shooting a hog every time. First, you have to pattern the hogs. Then you must study the terrain to determine which locations to set up in that is best for success. I can tell you for certain that when you watch that lone boar or sounder of wild porkers heading toward your calling position, your adrenaline level will likely go through the roof! It can be challenging keeping those crosshairs steady with a toothy boar coming your way at close quarters!

For more hog hunting tips, check out this Pack-In Hog Hunting article!

Yes, it’s time to answer the age-old question of who would win in a fight: the ferocious grizzly bear of sub-Arctic North America, or the hulking polar bear from the frozen tundra.

Both are formidable opponents, as they both sit on top of their respective food chain, but what if these two were to meet each other in less-than friendly circumstances?

How would their differences in stature and hunting strategies measure up? In order to answer this question, we will have to take a closer look at each animal’s individual stats.

The Weigh-In

Height

5-8’ 7-10’

Weight

400-1000 lbs 775-1,300 lbs

Paw Width

7” 12”

Claw Size

2-4” 2-4”

Bite Force

975 PSI 1200 PSI

Speed

35mph 25mph

As you can see from the table above, the polar bear has a HUGE advantage in size. Quite simply, they’re massive.

With their extreme size and weight, they are perfectly evolved to endure the harsh winters of their arctic habitats.

Polar bears do not really hibernate, because the Fall and Winter months provide the best environment for accessing food.

This is because when the ice forms, the bears have access to their main food source: the seal.

They are able to venture further out from land and hunt in the seal-rich waters.

Furthermore, their thicker fur and fat supplies make them a harder target to defeat, as teeth and claws have a much farther distance to go in order to do any damage.

While still being huge, the Grizzly is a much leaner predator.

Their size is more suited for warmer climates, thicker vegetation and faster prey.

The Grizzly does not have the same need for insulation that the polar bear does because unlike polar bears, they hibernate during the cold months.

Oppositely to their arctic cousins, Winter is a lean season for the Grizzly, as migratory animals move south and food becomes scarce.

Paws and Claws

In order to support their great size, their paws need to be huge as well.

Also, their broad size gives them much needed traction as they traverse snow drifts.

Their paws also make them incredibly adept swimmers, as they work like flippers and help propel them to hunt aquatic prey.

Claws, on the other hand (pun intended), the Grizzly might see a slight advantage.

While being roughly the same size, the Grizzly’s claw is built for digging and doing damage to any opponent it might face in the wild.

The polar bear’s claw is more built for giving traction in the snow, and for taking hold of seals, which make up most of its diet.

Much like the polar bear, seals have large fat reserves to insulate them from arctic climates. Because of this, polar bears’ claws must be good at grabbing hold of them so they can then eat them.

A sharper, more slender claw might eviscerate their prey’s flesh, but cause them to lose it in the ocean in the process.

As far as paw size, the polar bear has the advantage.

Mouth and Bite Force

Not only is their mouth much larger, but their teeth are more designed for delivering the fatal blow than the Grizzly’s.

As mentioned before, grizzly bear’s claws are the most powerful weapons in its arsenal.

As the Grizzly’s diet is more varied, it has more rounded molars than the polar bear.

This helps the Grizzly grind down vegetal food in the absence of live prey.

Now, let’s talk about bite pressure.

Measuring at 1200 PSI, there are only a few animals on earth that have a greater bite force than that of the polar bear (the top of the list being the saltwater crocodile).

Not to say the grizzly bear’s bite is weak, as it certainly is not. At 975 PSI, it is only a few spots down from the polar bear in ranking.

But what do these numbers mean?

In more practical terms, these animals can easily bite through a cast iron pan, a cinder block or even a bowling ball. Imagine what it would do to you!

The polar bear has the advantage when it comes to mouth and bite force

Head Games

On the topic of robustness of skulls, this one goes to the Grizzly.

Their heads are built like a battering ram with incredibly thick bone all around.

In fact, their skulls have been known to deflect rifle bullets.

They are built for fighting and raw aggression.

Polar bears have much more slender skulls in comparison.

This makes them more streamline in the water, making them stronger swimmers, but more vulnerable to trauma in the head region.

Even with the polar bear’s stronger bite force, if a fight were to be decided by a head chomp, it might go in the favor of the Grizzly.

Speed

If the fight comes down to a chase, or they decide to settle the squabble peacefully with a good old fashioned woodland foot race, the grizzly would once again have the advantage.

A common misconception with grizzly bears is that they’re big and slow. In fact, they are big and fast, clocking in at 35mph!

That means a bear could run the entire 360 foot length of a football field in 7 seconds!

It’s huge paws and streamline body make a swimmer of Phelpsian proportions.

If the race is a swim-off, than the polar bear is going to edge out the competition.

Agression

Both are incredibly aggressive creatures and would have no problem with defending themselves if provoked.

There have been more accounts of humans being attacked by grizzly bears, but that is mostly due to the population density in which they live.

However, polar bears alone claim a very impressive title: they are the only species on earth that considers humans food.

While other animals are known to attack, kill and eat humans, this is usually due to provocation.

Polar bears see humans as a viable food source and will stalk and hunt people as a means to survive in the barren arctic.

I’m calling this one a draw.

Intelligence

The polar bear is widely regarded as one of the planet’s most intelligent hunters.

Their ability to stalk prey over long distances and outsmart and outmaneuver makes them absolute master tacticians.

Seeing as how they often use their wits to prey on humans speaks volumes to their prowess.

If our Ursidae melee involves some level of hide and seek, the decision would go to the polar bear.

Strengths & Weaknesses

Both animals are evolutionary masterpieces and are perfectly equipped to reign supreme in their respective habitats.

This means that their strengths may prove to be weaknesses if transplanted into a different environment. And vice versa.

For example, the polar bear has incredibly dense fur and heavy fat reserves. It is perfectly suited for life in the arctic.

However, if you were to bring a polar bear into a sub arctic summer, it would tire easily and need to cool down before long.

They are bears from very different environments, which makes it difficult to parse out strengths and weaknesses.

Final Verdict

If we were to somehow create a neutral arena, one that plays to neither the polar or the grizzly bear’s advantages, we would have a very even fight, despite the size difference.

If it came to a close-quarters brawl, the polar bear might have an advantage.

While not possessing the sharp claws of the grizzly, its huge paws and strength could deal a fatal blow to the smaller opponent.

It’s thick coat and skin would help shield against any minor lashes from the grizzly.

If the polar bear gets close enough to use its powerful jaws, it might be a done deal.

However, if the grizzly bear can get a bit of distance, its speed could prove to be a huge advantage.

Quicker and more mobile than the hulking polar bear, it could dip in for quick strikes and tire it out.

If we’re not talking about an all-out brawl, this could all change.

As mentioned before, polar bears are master hunters and swimmers.

If this fight were to happen in an uncontrolled environment with each animal’s location being unknown, the polar bear would edge out the grizzly bear.

In real life?

There have been no recorded instances of a grizzly fighting a polar bear, but over the last decade there have been sightings of either encroaching on the other’s territory.

As climate change continues to thaw the polar ice drifts, grizzlies have been seen venturing further into polar bear territory.

While this may pique the interests of those wanting a battle royale between these two juggernauts, it almost certainly spells disaster for the future of their kind.

As human’s impact on the earth’s environment continues to worsen, these habitats are being destroyed and food sources are being depleted.

So, if you ever witness a grizzly fighting a polar bear, it’s not a great sign.

Final Thoughts

On the topic of who would win this battle, I have to defer to environmental variables.

Both are perfectly in tune with their habitat and will surely be victorious if this fight happens on home turf.

Nature always proves to be more complex, and less generous with easy answers than we hope, but can keep thinking about it all the same.

I hear it often this time of year, “I need to get my bow tuned up” or “I’m having trouble getting my bow to tune.” Generally speaking, tuning a bow might seem mysterious or at least something that can only be done by your local pro shop. While your local pro shop is a great resource to get your bow tuned, tuning a bow is something that every bowhunter should at least understand and, in many cases, do themselves. So let’s talk about what tuning actually means.

How do you define a well-tuned bow?

For me, my ultimate goal is to deliver a broadhead-tipped arrow to the exact spot I intend it to hit. Specifically, I want it to hit at 20 yards all the way to 80 yards. I want the arrow to enter as straight as possible, cutting efficiently and carrying as much kinetic energy through as it can. I also want the bow to be a little bit forgiving to a slight tweak in my form in a less than perfect situation. I want it to hold well and be accurate. I also want to be able to spend the preseason months practicing with both field and broadhead-tipped arrows. I want them to hit together and I want my practice to build my confidence and confirm that my form and bow and arrow setup are as lethal as I can get them. That is what I consider a well-tuned bow. With that, let’s jump into how to tune a compound bow.

Some suggest that a bow has to “paper tune,” which is a visual indication of what an arrow is doing very quickly after it leaves the bow. Others discard paper tuning altogether and suggest that “bare shaft” tuning is the only way to properly tune. A few other types of tuning methods that are tossed around are “group tuning,” “broadhead tuning,” “walk-back tuning” and, perhaps, even torque tuning although that is addressing a more specific issue. Every method has its fans and its critics. Personally, I like to utilize multiple methods. By doing this, I gain greater confidence in my setup.

Nocking point, rest location and cam timing

Whether you are pulling a brand new bow out of the box or you are starting over and setting your bow up again from scratch, the first thing I like to do is bottom out both the top and bottom limbs. Next, I visually check for cam timing. By cam timing, I mean that both cams are in sync and both roll over at the same time. Well-timed cams allow the draw stops on each cam to contact the cables or limbs at exactly the same time. Many of the newer compound bows have indication marks or holes on the cams that you can look at to see if the cams are timed.

For example, my Mathews VXR has a hole on each cam that you can look at to see where the cable is in relation to the cam. Each cable centered visually through those holes tells me that the bow is likely in time. Cam timing is important. If one cam is reaching full rotation before the other, it will result in an arrow that, if receiving more rotation from one cam, results in an arrow that will show either high or low paper tears that you probably won’t be able to work out by moving your rest or nocking point. Long story short: do a quick check visually for cam timing before you even get started.

What if my cams are not in time?

Cam rotation can be manipulated by adding or even removing twists from the cables in order to get the draw stops hitting at the same time. If you twist a cable, you are effectively shortening it, thus increasing the distance the draw stop has to rotate to stop. Untwisting does the opposite — it lengthens the cable and reduces the distance of rotation for the draw stop to hit. I always try to utilize twisting cables or strings rather than untwisting. Also, be aware that the twisting and untwisting can have other impacts on draw length and draw weight.

Also at this point, I like to do a quick measure of the axle to axle length and the brace height to see if those measurements meet the manufacturer’s recommendations. Axle to axle is measured from the center of the top axle to the center of the bottom axle on the shelf side of the bow. Brace height is measured from the deepest part of the grip to the bow string. If your bow appears to have good cam timing and the brace height and axle to axle are close to factory spec, then my next step is to set a nocking point.

To set a nocking point, my method is to measure the distance between the two axles and set my nocking point so the arrow is centered between that. I then tie in my nocking point. After that, I install my rest and lock it down with my arrow at a 90 degree angle to the string.

Another method is to attach your rest is to put your bow in a bow vise. Use a level and the vise to put your bow in a position that your string is perfectly vertical (i.e. level). Next, use an arrow on your string and adjust your rest height so that the arrow is running through the center of the berger hole (rest attachment hole) and it is 90 degrees running from your leveled string. At that point, tie in your nocking point(s) and secure your rest vertically.

After I have the nocking point tied in, my rest attached and the arrow squared, I set the horizontal location of my rest. I start with my rest at 13/16” from the edge of the riser. I may end up moving that if need be, but that’s a good starting point. For my Mathews bows, that is the magic spot for my rest.

With the nocking point and rest set, I tie in my D-loop. After that, I draw the bow several times to get a feel for the cam timing. A draw board is the best way to check timing, but if you do not have one you can have someone watch your cams as you draw. You can also get a good feel for it yourself by slowing down and drawing your bow repeatedly. Never draw a bow without having an arrow nocked.

Arrow selection & other accessories

Before moving to the next step of actually shooting the bow you have to think about arrow selection and the other accessories you are going to put on your bow.

You will need to shoot an arrow that has the proper spine for your setup. By spine, I mean the stiffness of the arrow. If the arrow is too weakly spined or too stiffly spined for your bow, it will be very tough and likely impossible to tune. Most arrow manufacturers have charts they provide where you can find your draw length and draw weight. The chart will indicate the proper spine for you to shoot.

Another method, which is what I would recommend, is to utilize the “shaft selector” software that is available online through a company called Archers Advantage. The cost is about $10 and, with it, you can build setups and generate an arrow that is perfectly tailored to you.

For example, I can input the model of bow, my draw length and draw weight. Then, I can play with arrow spines, lengths, components and I can create the perfect arrow for my bow. It’s a great product and I highly recommend it.

After you have picked an arrow, I’d suggest that you work on getting your stabilizer(s) and sight attached. Anything on your bow, including your accessories — even your peep sight — is going to impact the tune. I’ve seen guys shoot a bare bow that tuned perfectly and then added a stabilizer setup and they suddenly have a bad paper tear or poor bare shaft results.

Finally, you have your bow set up and are ready to fire a few arrows and start to tune.

Paper Tuning

I like to start out by paper tuning. For one, it’s relatively easy to do in a small space and I can do it at home in my equipment room. To paper tune your bow, you’ll need a bow, arrows, a frame that can hold a piece of paper that you can shoot through and a target placed behind it. The goal of paper tuning is to stand approximately 6’ to 8’ from the paper and shoot an arrow through the paper into the target. The resulting “tear” through the paper is a perfectly centered hole. A perfect tear would indicate the arrow is leaving the bow with true flight. In order to get a perfect paper tear, your arrow rest, nocking point, cam timing, grip and arrow spine all have to be correct.

Fixing paper tears

Left tear (nock left – point right)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest rightMove cam(s) left or short left yokeUse stiffer arrow or decrease point weightMove cable guard toward arrow

Right tear (nock right – point left)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest leftMove cam(s) right or shorten right yokeUse weaker arrow or increase point weightMove cable guard away from arrow

High tear (nock high – point low)

RestNock pointCam(s)Cable guardMove rest upMove nock point downTwist cable for top camTake a 1/4″ turn out of top limb bolt

Low tear (nock low – point high)

RestCam(s)ArrowCable guardMove rest downMove nock point upTwist cable for bottom camTake a 1/4″ turn out of bottom limb bolt

A combo of tears can be fixed by combining methods. For example, a high left tear might be fixed by moving the rest right and up. Generally, I would recommend you start with the easiest adjustment and retest before moving to steps like stiffer or weaker arrows, cam shimming, etc. More information on how to tune a Mathews bow with top hats can be found here.

Bare shaft tuning

After paper tuning, bare shaft tuning is my second step in the process. Bare shaft tuning is quite simple, but you have to have relatively good, repeatable shooting form. Start with two or three bare shafts (no fletchings) and two or three regular fletched arrows and shoot them, starting at about 15 to 20 yards. The goal is to have the bare shaft and the fletched arrows hit the exact same point. The bare shaft should enter the target at the same vertical and horizontal plane/angle as the fletched arrows. A well-tuned bow will group those arrows together and they will enter the target exactly the same way.

But what if they do not hit together?

Similar to the paper tuning method, your options for getting good bare shaft flight are to move the rest, the nocking point, the cam(s) left or right, adjust the left or right yoke, adjust the cam timing or make changes to your arrow setup.

Bare shaft tuning fix (point of impact)

Bare shaft leftBare shaft rightBare shaft highBare shaft lowRestMove rest leftMove rest rightLower restRaise restNock point-Raise knocking pointLower nocking pointCam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-YokesTwist right yokeTwist left yoke-Cam(s)Move cam rightMove cam left-Cam Timing-Twist cable bottom camTwist cable top camArrowsMaybe too stiffMaybe too weak-Other causeDraw length maybe too shortDraw length maybe too long-

As you begin to tune, make changes in small increments. It also helps to record the changes you make and monitor the results. It may take days to work out the tune, ensure that you are shooting with good form and executing good shots.

Walk back tuning

Walk back is yet another method to help you guarantee that your bow’s centershot is true, meaning your rest is in the proper position left to right. The process is simple: you shoot at a single spot on a target using the same pin at a variety of distances and monitor the results.

First, apply a piece of tape vertically straight up and down (plumb) through the middle of your target. Make sure you have an aiming point that the tape runs through. Then sight in your twenty yard pin to that aiming point. Now, moving back to 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards, aiming and shooting at the same aiming point and using your same 20 yard pin at each distance. If you shoot a single pin slider, do not move your sight. At each distance, use the same 20 yard pin.

A well-tuned rest center shot will yield in a straight vertical line. Every arrow should be vertically in a line in the tape, 20 all the way to 60 yards ( I ). If the line of arrow runs off to the left ( / ), you will need to move your rest to the right. If your arrows run off to the right ( ), you’ll need to move your rest to the left.

Make small changes and reshoot as you go. Remember that after you make an adjustment to your rest you will likely have to move your sight and resight in again at 20 yards before starting the walk back process again. Recording your adjustments and results can help you keep things moving in a positive manner. Once again, this may take a few days to make sure you get good shots and results.

Torque tuning

For those that have even more time to test and tinker, torque tuning might be worth considering. Torque tuning essentially is adjusting your rest into a position (forward or farther back) so that when your grip is less than perfect (like it regularly is in a hunting situation) your arrow will still fly true.

To start, sight your bow in at 20 yards. Then, draw your bow and slightly torque your grip so that the riser has more pressure to one side or the other (use common sense, do not derail your bow) As you do so, take note of what direction your stabilizer is pointing, then put your pin on the target and fire an arrow.

If the arrow impacts the direction that your stabilizer was pointing when torqued, move your rest farther back and repeat. If the arrow impacts the opposite direction of the way your stabilizer was pointing, then move your rest farther forward and repeat. Overall, you are trying to find the sweet spot where, if you have less than perfect grip and are torquing the bow, the arrow will still impact the desired spot. After you find the spot, test your results by torquing the bow both left and right and shooting to confirm your results. You can also step your yardage back to 30 or even 40 yards and repeat to fine-tune your rest location for maximum forgiveness.

Broadhead tuning

Finally, good broadhead flight is the reason we all started tuning in the first place and, if you’ve done the work with other methods like paper tuning and bare shaft tuning, it should be really close already.

A fixed-blade broadhead is going to have more surface area than your field tips and because of this will exaggerate an error in flight. Before I begin shooting broadheads, there are a few steps I like to take to ensure that any issues I might see are not the issues with the arrow/broadhead and are, indeed, issues with tune.

The first step is to install a broadhead and check for alignment by spinning each arrow. Any misalignment will cause a wobble in the arrow and poor flight. To check each arrow, use an arrow spinner like the Pine Ridge Arrow Inspector. Spin each arrow, taking note of the broadhead tip, watching for any wobble in the tip. Another method that I prefer is to put the tip of the broadhead up against a cardboard box and as you spin the arrow you will see the point start to make a circle in the cardboard if there is any misalignment. Perfect alignment will result in a pin hole in the cardboard and perfect alignment.

If the arrow tip does make a circle in the box, rotate the arrow tip until it’s in the top most position then use a sharpie to mark the arrow tip at that position. Rotate that arrow 180 degrees from that mark and then apply pressure to the point of the head on a hard surface. What you are wanting to do is to bend or push the insert in alignment with the broadhead. Recheck alignment by spinning the arrow and broadhead again. After your arrow/broadhead combos are put together, it’s time to shoot them.

For a detailed look at broadhead tuning, you can check out an article and video I did on this here.

Hopefully, your broadheads fly perfectly and impact along with your field tips out to 80 yards, but sometimes that is not the case. One of the most common questions I get about broadhead flight is how do I get my broadheads to fly with my field tips? Also, what is your broadhead flight telling you about your tune? The first thing I would suggest is that you should not automatically just move your sight so your broadheads are impacting where you want. That is a Band-Aid and you won’t be able to practice with field tips and have them impact where you want. Below, I have included a table to help you get your broadheads and field tips hitting together.

Broadhead tuning your bow

IssueRest fixCam fixBroadheads hitting leftMove rest leftMove cam rightBroadheads hitting right Move rest rightMove cam leftBroadheads hitting highMove rest down or move nock point upTwist cable for bottom camBroadheads hitting lowMove rest up or move nock point downTwist cable for top cam

After you make adjustments to your rest to get your field tips and broadheads hitting together, then move your sight to re-sight in your pins. This method will ensure your bow is well-tuned (good paper/bare shaft tune) and your broadheads and field tips hit exactly where you want them to!

Finally, I’ll provide another table below that can help in your tuning efforts and setting your bow to spec.

General tuning cause and effect

Twisting stringUntwisting stringTwisting cableUntwisting cableAxle to axleDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesBrace heightIncreasesDecreasesIncreasesDecreasesHolding weightIncreasesDecreasesDecreasesIncreasesDraw lengthDecreasesIncreasesIncreasesDecreases

In conclusion

Hopefully the COVID-19 pandemic will pass quickly and we can all get back to some normalcy and prepare for the fall hunting seasons. While we have some time at home, stay safe, enjoy time with family and put some real effort into having the most well-tuned bow you have ever entered a season with. All the best!

Whether you’re new to archery or a seasoned pro of the sport, you’ll likely be aware that your bow string being in good condition is crucial to being able to fire off a shot properly. If you don’t have a lot of experience in bow and string maintenance, you might find yourself wondering how long your bow string is likely to last before you need to replace it.

In short, the longevity of your bow string will depend on a number of factors, including the kinds of wear and tear that you subject it to, as well as how you look after it. Read on for our comprehensive look at how long bow strings last, and how to keep them in better shape, for longer.

Also don’t forget to check our roundup of the best recurve bow strings and the best bow string waxes.

A common ballpark figure for the lifespan of your average bow string is anywhere from three to five years. However, in reality, this can vary pretty widely, depending on how often you shoot your bow and how well you maintain the bow string itself.

There’s no major difference to the longevity of bow strings for compound vs. recurve bows. Generally, the main factors that determine how long your bow string lasts is the amount of use that it gets, as well as the draw weight a given bow has. A higher draw weight means the bow string is exposed to more force, which, in turn, causes it to wear out faster.

Another question worth asking is how often or how frequently you should generally replace your bow strings. Even if your bow string isn’t completely falling to pieces, that doesn’t mean you can still use it safely.

There’s no real consensus as to how often you need to replace bow strings. Most bow manufacturers recommend that you replace your bow string every year if it’s on a target bow, or every second year for a hunting bow. However, some manufacturers recommend that you replace your bow strings every two to three years, depending on the type of bow you’re shooting with.

Ultimately, the more often you shoot your bow, the more frequently you’ll need to restring it. And, it’s crucial that you don’t keep shooting with a bow that has a string in dire need of replacing. Worn out strings can cause serious injury if they snap when shot, for example.

Even if you wouldn’t expect to need to replace your bow string just yet, it’s wise to keep an eye on the kind of condition it’s in. We’d generally recommend that you inspect your bow string before each use. Depending on the poundage and wear and tear you subject your bow to, you may need to replace it sooner than anticipated.

One sign you might like to keep an eye out for is fraying of the string. Keep in mind that dryness of the bow string can also occur, and you can usually remedy this by waxing the string. However, if the bow string or serving is actually starting to fray, you’ll likely need to replace the string, or at the very least get it repaired.

Subtle changes in the tuning or performance of your bow may also be a sign that you need a new bow string. As bow strings stretch with use, they can feel less responsive and their timing can start to feel ‘off.’ If you notice this happening to your bow, then your best bet will generally be to get it inspected by a bow technician.

So, we’ve established the importance of properly maintaining your bow string if you want to extend its longevity. But, if you don’t have a lot of experience in bow maintenance, you might be wondering how to best take care of your bow string.

Easily the most important aspect of bow maintenance when it comes to your bow string will be waxing it regularly. The main purpose of waxing your bow string is to stop it from drying out. Waxing the bow string should also provide some form of protection from the elements in the case of harsh wind or sunlight, for example.

It’s also important that you store your bow in an environment with a stable climate. If you were to keep your bow in a room without much insulation, your bow would likely be subject to fluctuating temperatures. These changes in the temperature of the environment can disturb the tension in the bow string. You’ll want to be careful not to expose your bow to intense heat in particular.

If you shoot with recurves or longbows, then another great way to extend your bow string’s lifespan is by unstringing your bow when it’s not in use. This limits the amount of tension that your bow string is subject to and can help to dramatically extend its lifespan.

Given how important the bow string is in archery, it’s only natural that so many new archers worry about the implications of replacing and maintaining their bow strings. However, with proper maintenance, you should expect your bow string to last at least three years or so, though certain manufacturers will recommend that you replace the bow string before then.