Deer hunting is a tradition that can be found in every culture.

It has served as a way to provide food, materials for clothing, keep deer populations from overwhelming local ecosystems, and even as a hobby or for sport.

Those who enjoy deer hunting or know someone who does knows just how tasty venison can be.

However, it may be difficult to tell whether or not the deer meat is still good.

How To Tell If Deer Meat Is Spoiled (4 Ways)

In order to tell whether or not deer meat is spoiled, you are going to need to use all of your senses.

You can tell deer meat is spoiled by the touch, smell, and look of it.

There’s no need to taste it, as that can be hazardous for your health.

There are also other factors that you can use to tell whether or not your deer meat is still healthy to consume.

1. The Touch Of The Venison

Your venison won’t feel fresh if you touch it.

The deer meat will feel slimy and wet to the touch.

While your venison should be damp, it should never be soggy or slippery.

You may not be able to tell if your deer meat is spoiled by the touch if your venison has been frozen.

Luckily, there are multiple options for analyzing the freshness of your venison.

2. The Look Of The Venison

The first way you can tell if deer meat has gone bad is by the look of it.

Your deer meat should be a nice, deep red.

If your venison is brown, then you have a problem.

Spoiled meat will also have a metallic shine to it, but that can be a difficult deciphering tool because deer meat always has a certain shine to it.

This natural shine comes from the deer’s thick tendons and muscle structure.

It is better to go by the color if you are solely going off of looks.

If you’ve already ground up your meat, then you should take a look at the inside of each ground chunk.

If the inside is brown, then the meat is no longer good.

3. The Smell Of The Venison

You will mostly smell the revolting aroma of spoiled deer meat before you can even get to the other steps of studying the venison.

A sewage-like smell will attack your nose and seep deep into your nostrils.

If your deer meat has been frozen, you may not be able to smell it at first.

The smell will get increasingly intense as the meat thaws.

Prepare for your whole house to reek of sewage by opening the windows and airing out the house beforehand.

4. The Timing Of The Venison

There are two time frames that you will want to consider when trying to figure out if your venison has gone bad.

The first time frame you will need to take into consideration is when it was killed, dressed, and stored.

In order to keep your meat good for as long as possible, you will need to shorten the time between when the deer was killed and when it was frozen.

The time limit between those two events will be shorter if the weather is hot and humid.

You can leave deer meat out for the longest time when it is cold and dry.

The second time frame you’ll want to consider is how long you have been storing your meat.

You’ll also want to consider where it is being stored.

In the refrigerator, your meat will last three days.

Ground venison can last in the freezer for three months.

Venison roasts and steaks can be stored in the freezer for six to nine months.

Eating Spoiled Meat

Avoid eating spoiled meat at all costs.

The effects of eating spoiled meat can be devastating to your digestive tract.

If you have eaten questionable meat and that meat turns out to be spoiled, you may experience symptoms such as stomach pain, nausea, and diarrhea.

However, the worst-case scenario is death.

Rotten meat is where bacteria such as Escherichia coli and salmonella prosper.

Cooking your meat may get rid of any future bacteria forming, but it does not get rid of the toxins that they leave behind.

Those are left deep inside of the meat.

Ground meats will need to be cooked to a minimum of 165 degrees Fahrenheit.

Venison steaks and roasts will need to be cooked to 145 degrees Fahrenheit or higher to have any chance of killing these germs.

There’s another germ you will need to worry about.

Clostridium botulinum can be found in all sorts of meats.

This bacterium causes vision problems, paralysis, and even death.

There are five different types of Botulism.

There is infant botulism, wound botulism, iatrogenic botulism, and adult intestinal toxemia.

Each type of botulism is based on where it forms.

It can form in your wounds, your food, your cosmetics, your intestines when you’re an infant or adult, and even your food.

Foods that are canned or made at home without the proper equipment are at a higher risk of having foodborne botulism.

All forms of botulism are fatal.

If you or a loved one are potentially suffering from botulism, then go to the emergency room immediately.

Diseased Venison

There is something vastly more dangerous than simply spoiled meat.

There is a disease that is going through the United States’ deer population called Chronic Wasting Disease.

Similar to Mad Cow Disease, Chronic Wasting Disease eats away at the brain.

The U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention hasn’t linked the disease to anything that indicates humans can get it, but the organization still highly discourages eating meat from deer with this disease.

Before you go for your hunt, you should look into whether or not Chronic Wasting Disease is prevalent in your hunting area.

Those hunting for food should select another location for hunting or be prepared to have your meat tested once you bring the venison home.

There are other precautions you can take to avoid eating diseased meat as well.

How To Avoid Diseased Meat

One of the first things you can do to avoid diseased meat is to not shoot sick or weak-looking animals.

Instead, you should call your local fish and game department to inform them of the animal.

Should you accidentally shoot a sick-looking animal, turn it into your local game department so they may record and analyze it.

By doing this first tip alone, you will be helping keep your loved ones, the local community, and the local deer population safe.

Whenever you are dressing your deer in the field, make sure to wear latex or rubber gloves.

This will help you avoid direct contact with any potential contaminants.

It is better for you to bone out your deer, rather than sawing straight through the spine, brain, or any bone.

During the deboning process, try to avoid touching the brain or spinal tissues for longer than necessary.

You should wash your hands immediately and thoroughly after the field dressing is finished.

You will also need to make sure that your tools are completely clean and have soaked in 40% bleach for a minimum of five minutes each.

You should avoid eating the brain, spinal cord, spleen, eyes, tonsils, or lymph nodes of the deer.

While most of these things will be removed during a normal field dressing, you may still need to make sure to avoid lymph nodes.

By cutting away all of the fatty bits of the deer, you will have cut away any lymph nodes.

Hunters who want to be extra cautious may choose to ensure that, when their meat is processed, their animal is being processed individually, without any other meat mixing in.

Best Venison Meals

Venison can make for a hardy, protein-packed meal that has that signature gamey taste.

While that gamey taste isn’t for everyone, there are many ways to prepare venison as a meal.

It doesn’t all need to be your basic venison roast.

The best kind of jerky is venison jerky, by far.

This meaty, gamey jerky is the perfect snack while working or even hunting more deer.

All you will need to make it is venison, chili powder, onion powder, liquid smoke, soy sauce, Worcestershire sauce, black pepper, garlic powder, and teriyaki sauce.

If you like your venison jerky spicy, add some hot sauce and hot paprika.

You will want to cook your jerky at 150 to 175 degrees Fahrenheit.

You will cook one side of your jerky for three hours before flipping it over and cooking the other side for another three hours.

When in doubt, turn your meat into sausages!

With some venison, garlic powder, black pepper, mustard seed, tender quick, onion powder, and liquid smoke.

All meat lovers agree that the better sausages have cheese in them.

If you’ve never made sausage before, you may end up having a lot of fun with the steps it takes to make sausage.

The coarser you grind the meat up beforehand, the better it will stay together in a sausage.

You’ll want to leave your logs in the refrigerator overnight to help make the sausage firmer.

The better you mix your meat with your other ingredients, the better your sausage will hold up and turn out.

Venison makes excellent meat for any soup or stew.

Its gamey taste pairs well with vegetables, cheese, and herbs.

Any soup that has beef in it can be easily replaced with venison for a more gamey taste.

You can also add venison to vegetable-based soups, like potato soup.

The starch of the potatoes soaks up the gamey venison.

Health Benefits Of Venison

When you’re trying to decide on what to eat for a healthy meal, venison may not cross your mind.

It may be shocking just how many health benefits that venison has.

When most people go hunting, they aren’t thinking about the healthy meat they’re bringing home to their families, but luckily, your hobby is good for the whole family.

Deer meat is packed to the brim with protein.

In 100 grams of venison, there are 24 grams of protein!

A fourth of deer meat is pure protein.

The protein from venison is a complete protein, meaning it contains all of the essential amino acids that our bodies need in order to survive.

Complete proteins are what keep our immune systems, hormones, and crucial enzyme production in order.

Those who love beef but need to cut back on saturated fats should consider replacing beef with venison.

Deer meat is vastly lower in saturated fats than most other red meats.

Venison isn’t just a great source of protein, but it is also an excellent source of iron.

With 25% of the world’s population having an iron deficiency, we could all use a little venison.

There are two different types of iron: haem and non-haem.

Non-haem iron mostly comes from plants, but it doesn’t absorb into the body as well as haem iron.

Haem iron comes from most meats, excluding the liver, spleen, and bone marrow.

Zinc is one of the trickiest minerals to get into your system, with most people just opting to take zinc supplements.

By eating 100 grams of venison, you will get almost a third of the total zinc you need in a day!

Zinc is responsible for keeping your skin healthy.

It is also a crucial mineral for reproductive health, especially in men.

Quality Of Meat Weighs On Quality Of Shot

The quality of your meat weighs heavily on the quality of your shot.

The best hunters will kill their meat as humanely as possible, which means doing it with the fewest number of shots.

Plus, scaring your prey will only cause their body temperature to rise as they run for their lives.

You’re looking for the “one shot, one kill”.

You’re out in the field, and you’re aiming at the broadside of a buck.

Wait for the deer to have his leg extended and aim for a third of the way up his body, right behind the leg.

That is where the heart and lungs are.

This shot gives you room for error because of all the vital organs in the area.

With this shot, it is better to shoot a little high than a little low.

If the deer you’re hunting is looking toward you, you should aim for the lower quarter of their chest.

A deer’s lungs and legs are the best tools they have for escaping.

You want to take out the lungs because that will result in a quicker death for the deer.

Never forget the importance of respecting the animal you’re going to make a meal out of.

Texans have their own special spot to shoot a deer for a quick death.

Your deer will need to be facing away from you with its butt showing.

Use that tail of theirs to make the perfect marker for the “Texas Heart Shot“.

By shooting straight through the tail, you will be hitting the aortic artery and puncture the heart and lungs, which will lead to internal bleeding.

Plus, their white, little tails make it easier to see exactly where you need to shoot.

Isn’t it a great day not to be a deer?

NEXT: 50 Words That Begin And End With T (And How To Use Them)

As the buck approached, I gazed ahead and spotted the shooting lane. He would be there in seconds, and I knew the day of truth had arrived. A cluster of honeysuckle allowed me to draw my bow. Then, he entered the small opening I had made several weeks earlier after setting up the stand.

Upon releasing the arrow, I saw the white vanes disappear into the deer, forward and slightly low. Meanwhile, the buck’s hind legs kicked out. He ran hard for 30 yards, then slowed to a staggering walk like someone well over their legal limit of alcohol. His tail twitched erratically as he did his best to stay on his feet, but I could see that time was against him. Moments later, he fell and lay motionless.

Although the kill was quick and took only seconds, I had already determined the arrow zipped through the buck’s heart. A visual confirmation gave me a good idea of where the arrow hit, but it was the deer’s reaction to the impact that provided solid evidence of a heart shot.

Most archers take only ethical shots and have a good understanding of whitetail anatomy.

Bowhunters shoot for the largest vital area — the lungs. Nevertheless, it takes only an inch of aiming error to turn a quick recovery into a long tracking endeavor. This is especially true of deer that travel long distances because of bowhunters who begin tracking too soon after the shot. This most often happens because the archer has failed to accurately understand where the arrow hit and assumes he will have a prompt recovery.

The Boiler Room

I’ve always classified the vital heart and lungs as the boiler room. An arrow that takes out both lungs will result in a quick and humane kill. The lungs of an adult deer are roughly nine inches in diameter and offer the largest target.

A deer that is hit in both lungs typically runs hard and fast. This is provided the heart is spared. They remind me of a racehorse running down the final stretch of the track. Long strides are common, and their belly is low to the ground.

Most deer that are hit will flee the scene with their tail down. Watch deer carefully after the shot for any clues you can gather about where they are hit. Such clues can be extremely helpful in planning your recovery strategy.

While this is the common reaction, exceptions do exist. Consider a mature doe my son shot several years ago as it stood broadside. He swore the arrow passed through the deer just behind the shoulder but began to wonder after she ran a short distance, stopped, looked back and snorted. Then she fell to the ground. Upon field dressing the deer, it was obvious the arrow had penetrated both lungs. I point this out just to let you know unusual incidents do occur.

The lung-shot deer usually runs only 100-150 yards. However, if the broadhead takes out only one lung, their reaction could be entirely different. Many run hard at first but slow to a walk after a short distance. A deer shot in only one lung is often difficult to recover and requires extreme patience when tracking.

The buck mentioned at the beginning of this story reacted like a classic heart-shot deer.

Back legs usually kick out as the deer promptly leaves the scene, appearing as if they received an electrical shock. They run erratically for a brief distance and may change directions repeatedly. It’s common for them to slow down just before they drop.

There are cases where heart-shot deer have traveled up to 200 yards, but this usually occurs if the arrow only nicks or slices the heart. An arrow that hits low, just behind the front leg at the brisket, could nick the heart and miss the lungs entirely.

A paunch-shot deer will typically walk very slowly, with its head down. Another common trait of the paunch-shot deer is a hunched over appearance. As the deer walks, its back end could appear raised, with the legs in a wide stance.

The Abdominal Wound

The reaction of a deer hit in the abdomen differs greatly from that of a lung- or heart-shot deer. In fact, the difference is like night and day.

Tracking the animal also requires a different approach.

I classify an abdomen shot as anything including liver, stomach and intestines. Although the kidneys are located high and just in front of the hips, they do not relate to the paunch wound. A severed kidney results in immediate hemorrhage and will put a deer down quickly.

A paunch-shot deer usually runs only a short distance before stopping. In many instances, it will jump or flinch as the arrow hits before bounding away. It seldom runs hard and will usually appear to lope. The distance it travels before stopping could vary from only a few yards to 100 yards. In many cases, a deer with an abdomen wound will stop within 50 yards.

Once the deer stops, it could stand in place for one or more minutes. I know of one liver-shot buck that ran about 80 yards before stopping. It then stood in one location for 15 minutes before slowly walking away.

Once a paunch-shot deer begins walking, it will move very slowly with its head down.

Another common trait of the paunch-shot deer is a hunched over appearance. As the deer walks, its back end could appear raised, with the legs in a wide stance.

Most deer with an abdominal wound will bed down within a short distance if left alone.

If you can’t find blood on the ground after the shot, your next best option is to find your arrow and examine it carefully. Bright-colored blood on your shaft could indicate a lung hit, while darker blood or stomach material are sure signs of an abdomen shot. And, of course, if the arrow is free of blood and/or hair, you know it was a clean miss.

The liver-shot buck mentioned previously laid down after walking 40 yards from where it had stood. I was able to see this from my stand only because I had excellent visibility.

The bedding down quick theory is applicable with a liver or stomach wound — but only if the hunter does not begin tracking too quickly. The exception is the intestinal-shot deer, which could travel much further before bedding.

I suggest waiting several hours before tracking an abdomen-shot deer. This deer can be recovered if the hunter is patient.

Muscular and Skeletal Reactions

One common muscular and skeletal wound is the back shot. A friend of mine refers to this as “no man’s land.” That’s understandable, since a deer hit here is difficult to recover. Although there is a major artery that runs perpendicular with the back, most high hits will miss this vital blood vessel. Of course, a high hit could result in a spine shot that drops a deer immediately, but it should not be considered a target. Back hits usually occur when the archer does not get down on his target, or misjudges yardage.

Most deer hit high will run hard and fast, resembling that of a lung-shot deer. There are a couple of differences, however. A deer with a back wound runs hard but doesn’t take the long strides. Thus, the belly will not appear low to the ground. Most back-shot deer will usually stop running within 100 yards, whereas the lung-shot deer will usually run hard until it goes down. Determining the difference, though, could depend upon your visibility.

Other muscular and skeletal wounds will react in much the same way as the back-shot deer. One exception is the hip shot. Even when bone is missed, an arrow will inflict major damage to the ham muscle. You often notice this when the deer exits, since it could favor one leg. You might find more evidence when you track the deer, since blood typically runs down the leg and is found in tracks.

Fortunately, many muscular and skeletal wounds are superficial.

A deer that flees the scene of a shot with its tail flagging may indicate a clean miss. Deer that are missed also will often stop after a short distance and look back curiously at the site where the arrow sailed past them.

Nevertheless, I suggest you always give 100 percent when tracking such an animal. As mentioned previously, there are always exceptions to how a deer reacts when hit, and you seldom know exactly where your arrow hit until you make a recovery.

The Clean Miss

Like most bowhunters, I’ve missed my share of deer. It’s easy to do and will often occur from no fault of our own. There are always those dreadful limbs that seem to come out of nowhere. Then there are times when that dreaded buck fever interferes with our concentration.

Nevertheless, we cannot always determine if we hit or miss when the shot is taken. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve sat in my stand wondering if I missed or hit the deer.

Sometimes I’ve been sure of a hit, only to discover a complete and embarrassing miss.

Other times, I’ve cursed myself for missing, only to discover a perfect hit. Usually, when I’ve mistaken a hit or miss, it’s due to poor visibility following the shot.

It’s normal for deer to run when a miss occurs. However, there are telltale signs that seem to point to a probable miss. Consider the deer’s alertness. If he runs and stops, looks back with the head held high, there’s a good chance you missed. Most deer, when hit, do not want to stick around and ask questions. A wounded deer seldom runs and then stops to look back and focus on the shot location. Of course, it’s common for a deer to appear spooked when missed, even if it has no idea what happened. Some will not demonstrate curiosity, while others will.

Another trait of a hit deer is the tail dropping. The tail of some deer will drop halfway the first few yards it runs, and then drop completely after running further. Most deer you miss will run with their tail flagging. Again, consider this only a general rule. I’ve seen a few mortally wounded deer run with their tail flagging until they fell or stopped running.

Sounds that follow the shot could indicate a hit or miss. When an arrow hits the body cavity, you usually hear a dull thump. A loud crack could indicate bone, such as a rib, but it also could be the sound of the arrow hitting a tree or rock. Such was the case for me last season when a 10-pointer came into my grunts. I shot between two small hickory trees and thought I was on target. I heard the loud noise of the arrow hitting, well, something. The buck lunged forward, ran a short distance, stopped and looked back. I searched for 30 minutes for my arrow, to no avail. Only when my wife Vikki showed up and helped did I unravel the mystery. She spotted my arrow 10 feet above the ground, dead center in one of the hickories.

There is one final note worth mentioning about a hit or miss. Most archers know when they make a good shot as soon as they release. If you shoot within your effective range, have no doubts as to yardage and are not trying to push an arrow through a tight opening, you can be almost certain you will get the job done. The only other thing is to know that you aimed and followed through. I’m usually aware of this and can be certain that when I release the arrow the job will be done. Then there are those times that I did not do as I should have — I knew when I released that I could be in trouble!

Ever wondered which animal’s eyes glow in the dark? Or maybe you are wondering how to recognize a set of glowing eyes in the dark?

Let’s look at some common animals with glowing eyes at night as well as some of the more extraordinary hunters and nightcrawlers.

These are the most typical animals to reflect back the light at night. Whether you point a flashlight at them or they simply just appear to have glowing eyes when being caught on camera.

Which Colors Do Animal’s Eyes Glow At Night?

When you meet an animal at night with glowing eyes the color will typically be:

• Red
• Yellow
• Green
• White
• Orange

(The ladder is a mix between red and yellow)

In this article, we will take a good look at all these animals. We will also list them by eye color according to a set of photos. Just remember that you cannot know for sure that animals will always have the same colored glow at different times.

We will come back to this at the end of the article – now it’s time to look some of these amazing night creatures in the eyes!

Which Animals Have RED Eyes At Night?

Several animals can have red or orange glowing eyes at night. This is because they have a reflective layer behind the eyeballs which enables the lights to get reflected back toward the viewer.

That perceived eye color at night depends on several factors like the animal’s actual eye color, the light source, and how the retina is constructed.

Alligators

Gators crocodiles have pretty large eyeballs compared to their size. They will often appear red in the dark and leave them looking even more terrifying than they do before night time.

Photo: Larry Lynch

Owls

Another animal wood red or orange eyes in the dark are the Owls. They typically hunt right before dark and they have incredibly good hearing. But they also have pretty good eyesight as well.

The eyes really stick out in the forest when you notice the two red dots staring right at you.

Owls have especially big eyes in the animal kingdom. Their eyes are constructed more like a tunnel-shape which means they have to turn their head in order to look around. This is no problem though because Owls can turn their head 270° around.

The dark orange eyes are very pretty and they are probably the reason why Owls symbolizes wisdom and knowledge.

Rabbits

Rabbits also have very special eyes. They will typically appear to have a light red tone in the dark if you catch them on camera or point a light source toward them. They can also be orange or even pinker red.

Again, the red color comes from the light being reflected at the back of the eye.

They also have a reflective layer behind the eyeballs which reflects the light back at you when you look at it. We will explain this feature in great detail toward the bottom of this article.

Cats

Cats are the masters when it comes to eye colors. They can have a wide variety of eye colors. Not only during the night but also when it comes to their actual eye colors at daytime.

This very special cat, however, actually has two different eye colors. One eye is red and the other is green. You can see more animals with two different eye colors here.

Which Animals Have YELLOW Eyes At Night?

Now let’s change the focus to animals with yellow glowing eyes for a moment. This is a very common feature among animals and we find quite a lot of species with glowing yellow eyes at night.

Bears

Bears are one example. In the daytime, they normally have dark brown eyes. But when the light reflects at night they typically appear bright yellowish.

Check out these bears staring at the driver.

They could probably scare most people if you saw them at night!

Cats

As we mentioned above, cats can have all sort of eye colors. This cat is staring at the photographer with bright yellow eyes that could pierce you.

Eye color is determined by two pigment colors called melanin and lipochrome. The blend of pigment (or lack thereof) determines which color the cat’s eyes will have. But at night time the light can change the eye color by reflecting only parts of the light spectrum.

These two sets of yellow cat eyes look pretty scary in the dark!

Deers

Another animal you typically can encounter at nighttime is the Deers. They will often stare right at you when you are driving or walking by a forest.

The eyes of the deer will often light up with a yellow tone at night simply because the light is reflected back.

Raccoons

Another animal you might have in front of you when you notice a yellow set of eyeballs is the raccoon.

Raccoons are also nocturnal animals and therefore also have the reflective layer behind the eyes. They will typically reflect yellow light back of you.

Chinchillas

Chinchillas are pretty popular as exotic pets.

Here is a cute little fella eating an apple in a tree. The yellow eyes really light up in the dark and they seem to be very focused on the photographer.

Panthers

The last animals we will look at with yellow eyes in the dark are the Panthers. They are large cats that hunt at night and their yellow eyes are very intense.

Most cats (large and small) will have yellow eyes in the dark. But most cats won’t have yellow eyes when the face is lit. But the Panthers can have very pretty yellow eyes. Though sometimes they can appear greener.

Which Animals Have GREEN Eyes At Night?

We will continue by listing a couple of animals with green eyes in the dark. These are a little rarer as most animals will have yellow or red eyes in the dark.

Dogs

Docs can have green eyes in the dark. This cute little golden retriever pup certainly looks adorable with the glowing eyes in the dark.

When you do see glowing eyes in the dark it will often be a cat or a dog. This is simply because these are some of the most common animals around areas where people live.

Cats

Here’s a cat with bright green eyes

Foxes

The eyes of the fox are also very intensive at night. They typically keep to themselves at night when they hunt. But if you do encounter them you should look for green (or yellow) eyes in the dark.

This fox has a mix of green and white eyes as he stares at you.

Opossums

Opossums will often leave a green reflection when they are lit up at night. Here are five Opossums in a tree.

Which Animals Have WHITE Eyes At Night?

Sometimes animal eyes will reflect a white light at night. We will finish off by looking at a couple of animals with bright white eyes in the night.

These three species have all been photographed with a flash on the camera. That enables the light to be reflected back as a very white and bright color.

Coyotes

Hear the photographer has caught a coyote with his/her lens. The coyote stairs right at the camera and the eyes are very white.

Deers

As we looked at previously, Deers will often have yellow eyes in the dark. That’s sometimes the eyes will appear with a very bright white color.

This is especially true if you use the flash on your camera. The white light from the flash will be reflected at the back of the eyes and return a purely white color for the photo.

Tigers

This is not the guy you want to meet at night. It’s a Tiger with white eyes staring right at you in the snow. It’s hard to spot in the snow at night but the eyes give it away.

Other animals with reflective eyes (Tapetum Lucidum) include:

• Rats
• Skunks
• Ferrets
• Horses
• Pigs
• Camels
• Flashlight Fish
• Cows
• Goats
• Walleyes
• Kangaroos
• Squirrels
• Spiders
• Lemur

As you can see most of these animals are nocturnal carnivores but we also have deep-sea animals on the list.

It’s especially important to see well if you are a predator in the sea (or if you are being hunted!). The water can make it hard to distinguish patterns and movement in the dark so big eyes with retroreflectors can really help here!

Why Do (Some) Animal Eyes Glow At Night?

We find this feature among several vertebrates.

The reason why some animals have glowing eyes at night is due to a thin reflective layer behind their eyes (behind the iris). It is called “Tapetum lucidum“. This layer reflects the light back at you when you look at the animal in the dark. This phenomenon is also sometimes referred to as “eyeshine”.

This means that the light travels through the retina twice and is reflected back in a wide variety of colors.

This also means, that the light you see is just the reflection of the light source pointed toward them. This will typically be a flashlight or a camera flash. When the light is reflected back it can have the colors red, yellow, green, or white.

The light is reflected directly back toward the direction of the light source in order to let the retina have a clear and more vivid image to analyze. For cats, the reflective effect increases the vision by more than 40% thus giving the cats incredible night vision.

It’s a genius way to add more light to the retina. Animals without this feature (and humans) will only have the light pass through the retina one time. But the reflection adds more light and detail to the retina in order for the animal to see better in the dark.

This lets our nocturnal friends see better and further in the dark. It’s both an advantage for the predators and for the prey and it’s a good reason to stay indoors if you live around wild animals. They will probably have way better night vision than you do!

These are also the animals that are very good at seeing in the dark and they are called the nocturnal animals. When the light is reflected back a second time through the retina the animal has a better chance of sensing and seeing in the dark.

Recognizing animals by eye color at night

So does this mean that you can recognize animals by their eye color at night?

No, not really.

The reason is that you cannot know for sure that an animal will always reflect the same color back at you. It can vary greatly due to several factors we shall look at below.

Sometimes the color will be yellow and other times it might be green or even white.

As we looked at above it all depends on several factors:

1. The color of the light being directed at the animal (LED, moonlight, flashlight etc.)
2. The animals own eye color (which can vary greatly even among the same species)
3. The size and construction of the retina
4. The distance between you and the animal
5. The angle you watch from

So you cannot know for sure that a certain species will always reflect the same eye color. When you look at how the eyes glow at night, you will notice above that we have deers and cats with both yellow and green eyes, for example.

You will need to know more facts about the animals in order to recognize them at night. It’s much better to look at the animal’s behavior, speed, size, etc.

If you can only see the eyes of the animal you should try to determine how much space there is between the eyes and how far from the ground they are. If it’s a big animal with large eyeballs you should keep a safe distance. But to remember that even small animals can be dangerous at night.

So if you don’t know what you dealing with you should keep your distance and make sure not to stare directly at the animal as it can stir up aggression in some species.

Why Do Animals Have Better Night Sight?

As we mentioned above, some animals have a reflective layer at the back of the eye enabling them to see better in the dark. But that’s not the only reason why they have better night’s vision.

Another reason is that they are able to see a wider spectral range of colors.

• They can see UV and infrared light Many nocturnal animals can also see UV light as well as infrared light. Bees, for instance, can see some UV light.
• They have bigger eyes Some animals have larger eyes which enable them to let in more light. That means that they can sense more movements and shapes in the dark, and are able to see in greater detail in the dark.
• More light sensors Some animals have more light sensors in their eyes called “Rhodopsins”, and they let in more light. This advantage has a backside though as these animals typically are relatively colorblind as they lack other types of sensors that capture the colors of the light.

What colors do human eyes reflect at night?

Human eyes would always reflect a red color. This is because we do not have the reflective layer behind the retina (tapetum lucidum). Therefore the light will not be reflected back toward the photographer or the viewer.

So if you do see a human set of eyeballs lighting up in the dark it is typically because they are being photographed. They will appear red because of the blood vessels in the retinas in the eyes.

The light from the flash will enter through the center of the eye called the pupil (the black part) and its size is determined by the iris muscle. If the pupil is small there won’t be sufficient light to lit up the blood in the eye. This is why red-eye reduction software lets the camera’s flash blink an extra time just before the photo is taken in order to let the eye reflect off the light of the flash instead of letting it into the eye.

Are you looking for the best rimfire scopes for your 22LR? This post will cover my top picks for rimfire scopes if you want to dress up your rifle with some optics.

If you are hunting small game or just target shooting, a scope on a 22LR will come in handy.

The good thing is that many good options are on the market, even for .22 caliber rifles.

This article will cover the best rimfire scopes for your 22LR rifle.

Rimfire Scope Criteria

Below are the categories that need to be considered when choosing a scope. Magnification, reticle selection, and cost are the three main factors.

Magnification

Magnification is the primary feature to consider in the scope and is the main purpose of a scope. First, determine what distance you are going to shoot at commonly.

For 22LR, the most common distance is usually 50 yards. Most rimfire scopes will be at the 2x magnification and can be dialed up to 7x magnification.

A lot of scopes are also 3x to 9x magnification. Anything more powerful than this is not necessary on a 22LR rifle.

Reticle

Most people get too concerned and confused with different reticles and which is the best one. A simple crosshairs reticle is often the best choice, especially for a rimfire rifle.

Complicated reticles with bullet drop are designed for extreme long-range shooting. For 22LR rifles, you do not need any BDC or special reticles.

Because the distance is usually between 0-100 yards, a standard reticle will work fine, and try not to overthink it.

Price

Most people don’t like spending money on 22 rifles; they consider them more of a gun just to mess around with and have fun at the range.

I never recommend buying cheap stuff and always try to have good quality parts and optics on all my rifles. It doesn’t mean you need to spend enormous money on a scope for a 22, but you should still get something decent.

You should expect to spend about $100 to $400 on a scope and a little extra on scope rings and a mounting rail if needed.

Best Rimfire Scopes

1. Simmons 22 MAG 3-9x32mm

One of the cheapest and simplest rimfire scopes is the Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32mm. This isn’t fancy, but if you just want something to slap on your rifle and have some fun at the range, it will get the job done.

This is pretty much a standard scope that is good enough for shooting at 50 yards. It comes with a set of scope rings, and this scope is available in black or silver to match your rifle.

It is a 3x to 9x magnification, and the zeroing is standard with your windage and elevation turrets.

When looking through the scope, it is dim and not very bright, but you can’t expect too much for the price.

Again, this scope will work if you just want something to plink around with and have fun. Great for teaching kids on and even hunting.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32mm

2. Primary Arms 3-9x44mm

A huge jump in quality and features, but not the jump in price, is the Primary Arms 3-9x44mm.

This scope has a 30mm tube bigger than a 1″. A bigger tube gathers more light and looks brighter when looking through the scope.

This is also a 44mm objective lens, which means that you will have a wider field of view when you are looking through the scope.

For the money, this is the best rimfire scope you can buy. It has features you usually find on scopes in the $300 to $400 range but can be purchased for a fraction of the price.

It feels like a well-built scope. The glass looks good. The turrets adjust nicely. It has a crisp, clear sight picture even on the highest magnification and comes with lens caps.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Primary Arms 3-9x44mm

3. Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm

One of the best rimfire scopes for the money, with the widest field of view, is the Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm.

This is a great all-around scope and is very rugged. You will have no issues mounting this on a 22LR rifle.

The wide field of view is great for tracking targets if you are hunting and for transitioning targets if you are plinking.

I was initially very impressed with the clarity of the glass and how well built it was. The turrets and magnification adjustment know are firm and tactile. It just feels very robust and durable.

This is one of the best 50mm budget scopes on the market, and you will not be disappointed.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm

4. Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm

Setting up into a little more of a premium rimfire scope is the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm.

The 2-7x magnification is enough for the 22LR caliber at medium ranges. This has a V-Plex reticle which works great and isn’t busy or confusing.

Vortex scopes are well made and have the best warranty I have seen by any company. If there are any problems at all you send the scope back to them, and they replace it, no questions asked.

The eye relief on the Crossfire II is very generous and is built like a tank. All metal components and no plastic.

This is the perfect scope for a 22LR rifle and my favorite out of all the scopes on my list.

If you have never owned a Vortex scope, now is the perfect time to pick one up.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm

5. Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm

The Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm is more of a tactical scope, which I recommend for anyone with a .22 caliber AR rifle.

This scope is unique because it is offered with an illuminated reticle. This is designed for low light or nighttime shooting.

The brightness and clarity are superb, and you normally find optics of this quality for double the price.

Sig did an excellent job with the Whiskey 3. They offer it in three different reticles, but if you want the illuminated version, it will cost more and is sold with the Hellfire Quadplex reticle.

If you are looking for more of a tactical scope, this is one of the best rimfire scopes for that.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x0mm

6. Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm

Another one of the best rimfire scopes is the Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm. This upgraded version of the Crossfire II is of higher quality.

For the price, you are getting a lot of scopes. Vortex makes some great products, and the warranty they have is world-class.

Everything about this scope might be a little overkill on a 22LR rifle, but you can’t beat it for the price.

The glass is crystal clear, the construction is rock solid, and the price is right. They also sell this model with weaver-style rings, which will save you a little bit of money when mounting it onto your rifle.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm

7. Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm

If you are looking for a high-end competition scope for your 22LR rifle, I recommend getting the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm.

They make this model with a specific rimfire reticle which is great. The reticle is custom designed for the 22LR caliber.

Leupold has long been known for making some of the best scopes in the firearms industry; this scope is no exception. The glass is very clear, and the construction is very durable.

Very clear and bright glass compared to lesser quality scopes. Edges remain clear and focused. Maintains focus at very long distances. The rimfire reticle is excellent. Fine crosshairs are perfect width. Using the rimfire MOA reticle, holdovers perform as intended.

The reticle alone is worth the purchase. Scope holds zero and was easy to dial in. Extremely light. The scope is aesthetically pleasing as well.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm

Best 22LR Ammo

You will always need more ammo, and with prices at a high, the best idea is to better it whenever you see a sale or buy in bulk.

22LR Ammo is pretty common, so it’s normally easy to find.

Be sure to click the links and check the current prices and availability of the ammo because prices always change.

• 22LR Ammo

Best Rimfire Scopes FAQ

Are rimfire scopes worth it?

Rimfire scopes are a great addition to any small caliber or 22LR rifle. They will increase the accuracy and distance you will be able to shoot. They are most commonly used on hunting rifles.

What makes a rimfire scope different?

Generally, rimfire scopes are parallax free and have reduced eye relief. This is because they are often used at shorter ranges, and parallax-free is desired.

What is parallax in a scope?

Parallax occurs when the target and reticle are on different planes within the scope. It is detectable when you move your head or eye around while looking through the scope, and the reticle appears to move or swim around the object at which you are aiming.

Complete List of Items Mentioned

(Click the links for the most up-to-date prices)

• Simmons 22 Mag 3-9x32mm
• Primary Arms 3-9x44mm
• Bushnell Banner 3-9x50mm
• Vortex Crossfire II 2-7x32mm
• Sig Sauer Whiskey 3 3-9x50mm
• Vortex Diamondback 3-9x40mm
• Leupold VX-Freedom 3-9x40mm
• 22LR Ammo

Have you added a scope to your 22LR rifle?

Which one did you go with?

Let me know in the comments below.

Further reading on Firstworldcrusader.com: Are you interested in learning more about guns and gear?

This list of the Best Red Dot Sights can help you choose the best optic for your rifle.

In addition, here are the Best AR-15 Upgrades & Accessories that can help you get more out of your primary battle rifle.

“So, I guess here it is, we’ll just announce the 2022 flagship right now. The all-new 2022 (******) from Mathews!” This is how we ended the 2021 Mathews V3 review. There’s no crystal ball, no palm reading, or tarot cards. For a few years I wondered just how Mathews could keep improving? Over the last few years though, they have made it easy to predict the future. Not the specifics, just the fact that they aren’t sitting back waiting. Year after year, they are innovating, proving, and advancing technology. This year’s flagship, the V3X, is no different.

The V3X stage is set on the Proving Ground, which you can watch here.

Mathews V3X Review

Like the 2021 V3, this year’s V3X has many of the tried and true features. The Integrate MX dovetail rest mount, Center Guard cable system, Switch Weight modules, and CrossCentric Cams are a few of the more prominent things to carry over. More info here.

New for the V3X, and visibly hard to miss, is the Bridge-Lock Sight technology. This allows dovetail sights to be mounted directly through the riser. This eliminates the external mounting bracket, creating a cleaner look, improved balance, less hand shock, and a more compact profile. This feature is compatible with all dovetail sight brands that I have tried, and don’t fear-the V3X is still compatible with all external sight mounts as well.

Mathews LowPro Quivers

In conjunction with the Bridge-Lock, next in line are the new LowPro quivers. These are designed around the geometry of the V3X. Moving the sight to the center of the riser allowed the engineers to bring the fixed and detachable versions over 50% closer to the riser. These are more precise and fit tighter, helping keep the streamlined balance position that Mathews is creating. Like previous models, the LowPro series is available in both one and two-piece versions. More information can be found here.

Mathews Stay Afield System

One of the biggest fears of backcountry hunters, and those who travel across the U.S and the World, is having a mishap during the hunt. Losing a peep or needing to fix strings and cables on the fly isn’t a worry anymore. With specially modified cams and this bow-specific set of cables, the Stay Afield System is the new lightweight bow kit that will save more than one hunt this fall. At less than ½ ounce, this is a must-have. You can learn more about the system here.

29″ and 33″ ATA Options

Like the V3, the V3X is available in two lengths. 29” and 33’’, so slightly longer than the V3 was. It is available in draw weights of 5lb increments, and draw lengths of ½-inch increments.

Mathews V3X Setup and Testing

Similar to last year I received the review bow in late October, while I was out on other hunts. Like a kid at Christmas, it’s always exciting to see what Mathews put together. It didn’t take long to get the box ripped open, and begin setup.

The setup was fast and super simple. I was able to slide in my HHA Tetra Max dovetail bar and lock it into the Bridge-Lock-such a simply ingenious system. Within another 15-20 minutes, I was able to get the rest, loop, and peep sight all tied in. It was time to fling a few arrows to get sighted in and feel this bow’s shot sequence for the first time.

Like normal, I measure and eye everything close, then go to 5 yards and shoot one arrow. Then I make adjustments, and then another arrow at 10 yards. I make that set of adjustments and shoot another at 20 yards. At this point, I am pretty dialed. I’ll then shoot three arrows at distances out to 50. When comfortable, I’ll dial 60 yards and shoot that until I’m confident enough to pick my sight tape.

On this particular day, I didn’t have a lot of time, but I was able to get 20 arrows in, and was comfortably hitting 4” circles at 50 yards, with broadheads. So slightly over an hour after unboxing, I was headed to the tree stand. I was particularly excited. This was only my second sit in Wisconsin, I had a brand-new rig, and I would only have one more sit after this one before the rifle season opened.

The Real Test

That sit was uneventful, and the following morning I had commitments that kept me out of the tree until 2:00 that afternoon. It wasn’t much after 2:00, though, when I could see a doe feeding my direction through the oak trees. Within 20 minutes she was at about 30 yards and I started preparing for the shot. Over the years I have come up with a very specific shot sequence, it’s become second nature; automatic if you will. Anytime anything in that equation changes, things aren’t as fast, and become less automatic.

With a new rig in my hand, I was now drawn and working through each step of the process when I heard the crunching of leaves behind and below the doe. In seconds, I could see the flash of brown and shine of antler as this buck worked his way up towards us. Within seconds he spotted the doe, grunted, and began trotting towards her. She bolted away from us and then made a loop around. This path had her coming directly under me. I drew again, and as he took a shortcut, it put him on a line 24 yards in front of me-and wide open. With two loudmouth grunts, he came to a stop and I was able to get through the process, sending an Iron Will Solid through both shoulders. He only went 25-yards.

That Was Fun, Now Back to the Bow

Being new, and not totally second nature, I took a little more time with the shot process. When the shot broke, three things came to mind immediately. Wow, that was quiet, literally almost silence, other than the arrow smashing through the buck. I felt no hand shock, barely any bow movement, and lastly, it hammered him!!

Specs from the website:

• Brace Height 6.5” (6” on the 29” ata)
• IBO Rating up to 336 FPS
• Axle to axle available in 29”and 33”
• Draw Weight available in 60/65/70/75
• Let-Off 80 or 85%
• Weights of 4.67# and 4.47# for 33” and 29” respectively
• MSRP $1299

Once again I used the Mathews Bow Builder for custom strings, cables, and accessories. I chose the new Granite finish, which I really like. I use an HHA Tetra Max dovetail with this, a two-piece low-profile quiver, and outfit it with a Jakt Gear bow and wrist sling.

Conclusion

My final thoughts on this bow are incredible. As I alluded to in the hunt recap, it is unbelievably quiet, and the bow movement upon shot release is almost nonexistent. It’s honestly hard for me to believe. It’s got a solid back wall, the balance is tight, and it is the nicest bow I’ve ever shot. Start building yours here.

I do have to be very careful when I’m at the back wall, it seems ready to take off at any point if I relax at all. More time with it will be the only way to see how it works out.

The only other thing to watch is the LoPro quivers. They will mount and fit with a sight that is mounted externally, but you will lose a couple of the arrow slots, as the arrows would hit the sight mount if mounted externally.

I’ll reiterate, how amazingly quiet this bow is. I can see this being a big advantage in certain situations like jumpy whitetails, western antelope, and longer-distance shooting at some animals. Less noise should hopefully keep those edgy animals from jumping the string so much.

I’ve shot almost every Mathews built since the early 1990s. It’s an amazing company (and just an hour from my house.) Just like about anyone else, I have the ability to shoot a bow from any bow manufacturer that I like-and I do every year from many companies to stay in the loop and formulate honest opinions. And I still keep coming back to Mathews. I’m looking forward to getting my hands on a 29” version to see how it shoots…and even more looking forward to seeing what the 2024 Mathews will bring to the table…stay tuned.

Comment on this review or ask Les questions here.

More archery content available here.

The following ammunition cartridge ballistics information and chart can be used to approximately compare .223 Remington vs .30-30 Winchester ammo rounds. Please note, the following information reflects the estimated average ballistics for each caliber and does not pertain to a particular manufacturer, bullet weight, or jacketing type. As such, the following is for comparative information purposes only and should not be used to make precise predictions of the trajectory, performance, or true ballistics of any particular .223 Remington or .30-30 Winchester rounds for hunting, target shooting, plinking, or any other usage. The decision for which round is better for a given application should be made with complete information, and this article simply serves as a comparative guide, not the final say. For more detailed ballistics information please refer to the exact round in question or contact the manufacturer for the pertinent information. True .223 Remington and .30-30 Winchester ballistics information can vary widely from the displayed information, and it is important to understand that the particular characteristics of a given round can make a substantive difference in its true performance.

Caliber Type Velocity (fps) Energy (ft-lb) .223 Remington Rifle 3150 1250 .30-30 Winchester Rifle 2370 1890

Velocity

As illustrated in the chart, .223 Remington rounds – on average – achieve a velocity of about 3150 feet per second (fps) while .30-30 Winchester rounds travel at a velocity of 2370 fps. To put this into perspective, a Boeing 737 commercial airliner travels at a cruising speed of 600 mph, or 880 fps. That is to say, .223 Remington bullets travel 3.6 times the speed of a 737 airplane at cruising speed, while .30-30 Winchester bullets travel 2.7 times that same speed.

Various calibers

Energy

Furthermore, the muzzle energy of a .223 Remington round averages out to 1250 ft-lb, while a .30-30 Winchester round averages out to about 1890 ft-lb. One way to think about this is as such: a foot-pound is a unit of energy equal to the amount of energy required to raise a weight of one pound a distance of one foot. So a .223 Remington round exits the barrel with kinetic energy equal to the energy required for linear vertical displacement of 1250 pounds through a one foot distance, while a .30-30 Winchester round exiting the barrel has energy equal to the amount required to displace 1890 pounds over the same one foot distance. As a rule of thumb, when it comes to hunting, muzzle energy is what many hunters look at when deciding on what caliber of firearm / ammunition to select. Generally speaking, the higher the muzzle energy, the higher the stopping power. Again, the above is for comparative information purposes only, and you should consult the exact ballistics for the particular .223 Remington or .30-30 Winchester cartridge you’re looking at purchasing.

Please click the above links to take a look at all of the .223 Remington and .30-30 Winchester ammo we have in stock and ready to ship, and let us know any parting thoughts in the comment section below.

Foundry Outdoors is your trusted home for buying archery, camping, fishing, hunting, shooting sports, and outdoor gear online.

We offer cheap ammo and bulk ammo deals on the most popular ammo calibers. We have a variety of deals on Rifle Ammo, Handgun Ammo, Shotgun Ammo & Rimfire Ammo, as well as ammo for target practice, plinking, hunting, or shooting competitions. Our website lists special deals on 9mm Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 45-70 Ammo, 6.5 Creedmoor ammo, 300 Blackout Ammo, 10mm Ammo, 5.56 Ammo, Underwood Ammo, Buffalo Bore Ammo and more special deals on bulk ammo.

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Many Wisconsin anglers have the first Saturday in May circled on their calendars. That’s because the date marks the Wisconsin walleye opener on most inland waters. Opening-day conditions can vary greatly from year to year and from one end of the state to the other. In the north, some lakes may just be losing their ice cover and spawning may just be starting. In the south, walleyes usually have finished spawning and have turned their attention to food.

Walleyes, more than most other species, move from one place to another both seasonally and on a daily basis. Understanding those movement patterns is the first step to successful walleye fishing. That’s especially true during the first few weeks of the season. The second step is to use a presentation that will trigger strikes given the time of year, time of day, and the weather and water conditions. Regardless of where you fish, you can count on finding cold water in early May, which means you’ll want to slow down and scale down your presentation.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

In the case of walleyes, “relocation, relocation, relocation” might be more accurate. In Wisconsin lakes and reservoirs, walleyes migrate from winter habitat to spawning areas and then to spring and summer habitat, all in a period of several weeks. Learn to identify each of those habitat types and when to expect walleyes to move from one to another and you should be able to catch them during the spawning period, when they move the farthest and their behavior changes the most.

By the time the Wisconsin walleye opener occurs, most walleyes have already moved to pre-spawn staging areas. These are usually areas of intermediate depth located very close to good spawning substrate. In deep lakes, walleyes often stage just off the main break between shallow flats and deep water. In shallow lakes and reservoirs, they may stage just outside weed flats, below subtle breaks of only a foot or so, in channels and off creek and river mouths.

SPAWNING HABITAT

In landlocked lakes, walleyes normally spawn on shallow rocks, rubble and gravel washed clean and aerated by wave action. That type of substrate is often found along shorelines, on mid-lake reefs and around islands. Walleyes also spawn on sand, submerged timber or even muck, if nothing better is available.

In reservoirs, lakes with tributaries or outlets, and lakes that are part of a chain of lakes, walleyes migrate as far as they have to in order to reach suitable spawning areas. They may go many miles upstream, downstream or through several lakes to find the gravel and rock structure they need.

TIMING THE SPAWNING RUN

Walleyes migrate to spawning areas several weeks before they actually spawn. On northern waters, this migration often takes place under the ice. Spawning begins when the water temperature reaches 42 degrees. Most spawning concludes by the time the water temperatures reach the low 50s.

Most walleye spawning takes place at night, but walleyes remain in staging areas during daylight hours throughout the spawning period and for several days thereafter before they disperse. Staging areas often hold great concentrations of walleyes, usually grouped by sex and size. The smaller males often remain close to spawning gravel, while larger females stay farther away in slightly deeper water.

An early spring can cause walleyes to begin their migration earlier than normal, while prolonged winter weather can push the entire process back a week or so. Year in and year out, however, the spawning run usually follows the same schedule within a few days, depending on the latitude of the lake in question. In southern Wisconsin, spawning normally is in full swing the first week of April. Farther north, spawning takes place in late April or early May.

PRE-SPAWN TECHNIQUES

Walleyes tend to be sluggish during the pre-spawn period, when water temperatures are in the 30s. Slow, deliberate presentations work best then. Action may be best during the afternoon, when the water has had a chance to warm up slightly. A leadhead jig tipped with a small minnow is a good bait choice.

Anchor or use a trolling motor to stay over a staging area where you have marked fish and work a jig-and-minnow vertically with a short lift/drop, lift/drop action, or drag it slowly across the bottom. Inactive walleyes usually take a bait as it drops. Rather than a decisive strike, you may simply feel a weight when you lift your rod. If so, hold it steady for a moment. If the weight begins to move, set the hook.

If there is a light breeze blowing in the right direction, you can drift over staging areas with a bottom-bouncer and a floating jighead or plain hook tipped with a minnow. Again, set the hook when you feel any resistance that moves.

When fishing staging areas from shore, cast a jig out to deep water and crawl it back to you. You may lose a few jigs, but that is a good way to cover an area thoroughly.

In reservoirs, start below a dam or inlet mouth and work deep water thoroughly with a jig-and-minnow. If that doesn’t produce fish, gradually move downstream, probing shallow bars, eddies and backwaters. Shallow, submerged wood can be very productive now, as the dark wood absorbs the sun’s heat and warms up the surrounding water. Shallow-running crankbaits often take good fish in timber.

Vary lure color and size until you find what the fish want. If they stop hitting or if the weather or water clarity change, try a different size or color. Generally, use smaller, brighter baits in colder water, fluorescent colors in dark water, and natural colors in clear water.

FISHING DURING THE SPAWN

Daytime action often drops off sharply once walleyes begin to spawn. Night-fishing in shallow spawning areas can be very productive, though. Try longline trolling over gravel bars, shoreline points, reefs and weed flats with floating minnow baits like a Rapala or ThunderStick. Use a zigzag trolling pattern to give baits an erratic action that often triggers strikes. On reservoirs, use side-planer boards to troll shallow-running baits along shoreline riprap.

If you fish during the day, work staging areas carefully with a lightweight jig tipped with a small minnow or plastic tail. If all you catch are small, aggressive males, move around and keep jigging until you locate a group of females. They’ll usually be holding below the next break to deeper water.

POST-SPAWN TRANSITION

After spawning, walleyes scatter and feed voraciously during a brief transition period before they move to summer habitat. During the transition, they may be just about anywhere there is food. They often move into very shallow water because it is warmer and because they find hatching insects and young perch and other baitfish there. Since they are rarely as concentrated now as during the spawning period or when they school up again in summer, you’ll take one here, one there, so it’s best to move around and cover a lot of water. Trolling or casting shallow-running crankbaits over shallow mud flats, gravel bars, rockpiles, points and emerging weeds will take fish both day and night during the transition.

Vary these techniques depending on where you are fishing and whether spring weather is early or late in coming. The best indicator of the progress of walleye spawning is water temperature, so check it daily to help plan your approach. Now let’s look at a half-dozen of the state’s best early-season walleye waters.

BIG CEDAR LAKE

Washington County’s Big Cedar Lake harbors some big walleyes, but they are a challenge to catch in the clear water. Big Cedar covers 932 acres and has a maximum depth of 105 feet in the south basin. That basin holds most of the lake’s walleyes. A honey of a gravel bar rises to within 8 feet or so of the surface in the basin, and another one comes up out of a 20-foot saddle at the mouth of the outlet bay to Cedar Creek along the east shore. Both of those humps and the entire east shore fall off so abruptly that a mountain goat would have trouble keeping its footing there if it were dry land.

Look for post-spawn females along the drops during the day and on top of the bars in the evening and at night. Jigging works well in the deeper water, while flatline trolling with shallow-running stickbaits will take some nice fish on top of the bars. Use planer boards to troll close to shore.

BIG GREEN LAKE

At 237 feet, Big Green is Wisconsin’s deepest lake. Like Big Cedar, this is a two-tier fishery, with lake trout and ciscoes in the deeper water and bass, walleyes, northerns and muskies in the shallower portions. The lake’s walleyes grow fat on ciscoes and other forage. Some of them migrate up Silver Creek at the east end or Spring Creek at the west end to spawn. Others spawn on the lake’s gravel bars.

When the season first opens, try near those two inlets, but avoid the posted fish refuge at the Silver Creek inlet. Two large bars at the east end and two smaller bars just south of Malcolm Bay are also good spots in spring. With a west wind, the stretch along the north shore from Lone Tree Point to Malcolm Bay is a great walleye drift with live chubs or shiners.

Contacts: Schroeder’s Sports Shop, (920) 294-6462; Green Lake Marina, (920) 294-3625 www.greenlakemarina.com; Norton’s Guide Service, (920) 294-3617, www.nortonsfishingandhuntingadventures.com.

HIGH FALLS FLOWAGE

At 1,700 acres, High Falls is the largest of several reservoirs created by power dams that tame the brawling Peshtigo River. Like the river, the flowage is stained dark brown, limiting visibility to 3 or 4 feet. Countless rock bars make navigation hazardous but provide excellent spawning and feeding habitat for walleyes.

In May, look for walleyes in the northern half of the flowage, above the Highway X bridge. You’ll find spawners right in the stumps and on the shallow bars at the north end. Larger females will hold in the old river channel. A slip-bobber rig or lightweight jig tipped with a fathead minnow will take walleyes in spring.

“To avoid snagging in rocks and to help you feel a pick-up, go with the lightest jig you can manage,” says fishing guide Mike Mladenik.

Eight free public landings maintained by Wisconsin Public Service Corporation provide good access to all parts of the flowage.

Contacts: Popp’s Resort, (715) 757-3511, www.poppsresort.com; Mladenik’s Guide Service, (715) 854-2055, www.mikemladenik.com.

THREE LAKES CHAIN

The Three Lakes Chain is actually a string of 17 lakes on the Eagle River in Oneida County. Burnt Rollways Dam separates the Three Lakes Chain from the Eagle River Chain. Some folks just call them the upper and lower chain. Most of the lakes are stained a medium brown, which limits visibility and helps walleyes stay active during daylight hours.

An abundance of mid-lake structure on Planting Ground, Long and Big Stone lakes holds walleyes in spring. Deep water on Big Stone and Medicine lakes harbors ciscoes, which help produce some big walleyes. Most anglers use jigs and minnows for early-season walleyes there, as motor trolling is not permitted.

Contacts: Eagle Sports Center, (9715) 479-8804, www.eaglesportscenter.com; Guide’s Choice, (715) 477-2248, www.guideschoiceproshop.com; Tadpole’s Sports, (715) 479-6641, www.tadpolessports.com.

MCKENZIE LAKES

This trio of lakes located in Washburn County offers some of the best walleye fishing in the region. Upper (Big) McKenzie covers 1,185 acres, Middle McKenzie 530 and Lower McKenzie 180 acres. The two larger lakes have similar structure, with abundant gravel bars and adjacent deep water. Walleyes move freely between them via McKenzie Creek.

Walleye fishing is usually very good on the larger lakes when the season opens in May. Minnows work well now because baitfish populations are at their lowest at this time of year. Try the gravel bars at the north end of Upper McKenzie and the south end of Middle McKenzie.

Contact: Boone’s A&H Outpost, (715) 635-8955.

CHIPPEWA FLOWAGE

Formed in 1923 by the Winter Dam at the confluence of the East and West forks of the Chippewa River, the Chippewa Flowage flooded 10 lake basins and sprawls over 15,000 acres in Sawyer County. Best known for its big muskies, the “Big Chip” is also one of the best walleye lakes in the state, with a high population density sustained by natural reproduction and boosted by stocking by both the state and the Lac Courte Oreilles tribe.

With 233 miles of shoreline, 140 islands and six major tributaries, the flowage is best bitten off in small chunks. Try to fish it all at once and you’ll go crazy. When the season opens, fish the tributary mouths and the gravel shorelines of Chief and Tyner lakes. Jig with a minnow or cast diving crankbaits.

Contacts: The Landing Resort, (715) 462-3626, www.thelanding-lco.com; Treeland’s Resorts, (715) 462-3874; www.treelandresorts.com.

Other top spring walleye waters include Lakes Waubesa and Mendota on the Madison Chain, Pike Lake in Washington County, Big Arbor Vitae Lake in Vilas County, Lake Arbutus in Jackson County, and Holcombe Flowage in Chippewa County. If you’re planning an opening-weekend outing, check local conditions before you pick a lake to fish. You can also check the Wisconsin DNR’s weekly Outdoor Report at http://dnr.wi.gov/News/or/. With a little effort, you should be able to find the perfect spot for opening-weekend walleyes.

Not sure what scope to get for your 1-8x?

Look no further.

I’ve tested ALL the best 1-8x scope (plus 1-8xscope mounts and accessories.)

By the end of this guide, you’ll find the perfect optic for your 1-8x.

Let’s get started!

1-6x vs. 1-8x Scope

If you’re looking for a versatile short to mid-range scope, 1-6x or 1-8x is your best bet.

But, what’s the difference between these two choices and which is better?

Keep reading to find out…

1-6x Scope

A 1-6x scope has a variable magnification from 1x to 6x and can be set anywhere in between.

This scope can pretty much do everything you could need. At a close range of about 25 yards, you’ll be able to target and shoot almost as quickly as you could with a red dot. Which makes these scopes a great choice for an SKS rifle or any home defense rifle.

At 6x magnification, you should be able to shoot out to 1000 yards, although not extremely accurately. The sweet spot is closer to 400 yards for optimum clarity and accuracy. This is great for 3 gun competitions and most hunting situations.

1-8x Scope

With the 1-8x scope, you’ll get an extra 2x of magnification range.

While you still get 1x magnification, this scope isn’t as great at the super short ranges. It’s most effective range is around 300-500 yards, with a little give or take above and below that.

It’s great for hunting, since that’s right around the normal distances that most people prefer to hunt. However, it does have some disadvantages to the 1-6x.

Which is better?

Both the 1-6x and 1-8x variable magnification scopes are great, depending on what your main function for them will be.

There’s only a few differences between the two scopes. The main difference is the eyebox. On a 1-8x, the eyebox noticeably shrinks. With a pickier eyebox, it can be a little more difficult to use.

But, if you’re bench shooting, it may not make a huge difference for you.

Another issue is the weight and the cost. Most of the time, a 1-8x scope will both be heavier and more expensive than the 1-6x. For something like a muzzleloader, the 1-8x is likely going to weigh you down. And if you’re looking for a scope under $100, 1-8x is likely out of the question.

The benefit to the 1-8x is, of course, that you get an extra 2x of magnification, which allows you to target and shoot further. It also usually will have better glass quality than the 1-6x. Although that will really depend on the scope brand.

But, the 1-8x has to be at full magnification for the reticle to give you the best results. And that extra 2x of magnification almost always coincides with a loss of clarity, as well as a tighter eyebox.

In most cases, the 1-6x is the better choice. It does almost everything and has the best overall value. The benefits of the 1-8x don’t really outweigh the downsides, unless you really need the extra magnification. So, if you do a fair amount of long range shooting, the 1-8x might be worth it.

Another thing you’ll want to consider when choosing the right scope is whether the reticle is first focal plane or second focal plane…

What is the Difference Between First Focal Plane and Second Focal Plane?

There are a few key differences between these two types of scopes, which should help you to decide which is better for your setup.

First Focal Plane

First Focal Plane, or FFP, scopes have the reticle right in front of the magnification lens. What this means is that when the magnification changes, so does the reticle.

The reticle will increase or decrease in size as the magnification gets higher or lower.

The benefit to this type of scope is that the holdover or subtension values stay consistent and accurate, no matter the magnification. This makes it the best suited for long range shooting.

The downside to this is that the reticle can get pretty small at lower magnifications, making it difficult to see. Also, the reticle gets bigger and thicker at high magnifications, and the lines could block part of your view.

On top of that, FFP scopes are quite a bit more expensive than the SFP.

Second Focal Plane

Second Focal Plane, or SFP, scopes have the reticle behind the magnification lens. So, with these, the reticle doesn’t change its size at all.

The great thing about this is that the reticle is strong and easy to see, no matter the magnification. And it doesn’t get in your way at all.

Unlike the FFP, short range shots are quick and easy to see, which makes SFP perfect for home defense and close range hunting like you’d do with a 45-70 or any other hunting rifle.

Another bonus is that SFP scopes are a lot more affordable than the FFP scopes.

The downside is that the spacing for holdover is only correct at the highest magnification. Which means that you’ll have to calculate it when you’re using it at the lower magnification settings.

When you’re trying to choose between the two, the SFP is most common and the popular choice. Unless you do a lot of really long range shooting or long range competitions, which is where the FFP scopes excel, the SFP is a better overall value.

The 5 Best 1-8x Scope

If you’re pressed on time, here’s a quick list of the best 1-8x scope:

1. Swarovski Optiks L Z8i 1-8×24: Best 1-8 Scope
2. Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 1-8×24: Best for AR-15
3. UTG 1-8×28: Best for the Budget
4. Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP: Best 1-8x FFP Scope
5. Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32: Best for Hunting

1. Swarovski Optiks L Z8i 1-8×24: Best 1-8 Scope

If you are in the market for a scope to use with your 45-70 and want the best in the industry, look no further than Swarovski Optiks.

The Swarovski Optics L Z8i 1-8×24 is the clearest scope on the market.

Let me tell you why….

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Swavorski sets the standard for best optics glass in the industry-hands down. No one does it better than this Austrian company. A few may come close-but they can’t quite cut it.

Between near perfect glass clarity and the fully-multi coated lenses, the L Z8i line transmits 93% of visible light.

Meaning this is the clearest and brightest view through an optic that you’ll ever see. After using this scope, even my “best” scopes seem hazy.

The view on this scope is truly clear and precise from edge-to-edge. Other scopes may claim they have edge-to-edge clarity, but really, they only have 70% of the range this scope has.

There’s no fuzzing at the edge of objects. I couldn’t get a sharper sight picture if I had cut it with an exact-o knife.

When I took this optic out to the range, I didn’t need a spotter. I could clearly see all the hits on my paper-even pushing passed 500 yards. There’s no questioning where my shots landed.

This scope is outstanding and as Swarovski’s flagship line, the Z8i 1-8×24 outperforms all other scopes you’ll ever use in low-light situations.

The illuminated Flex-change 4A-IF reticle gives me a fully adjustable red dot. Or if I’d prefer, I can toggle to a red dot centered in an illuminated red circle.

The red dot illumination levels are the most adjustable I’ve ever seen: there are 64 different intensity levels.

The scope also features an ingenuitive battery saving feature-if the scope senses that the rifle isn’t being held at a shooting angle, it turns the red dot off.

The reticle cross hairs are thin and unobstructive. I can clearly see my target. The Z8i 1-8×24 comes with either a BDC reticle or a simple duplex.

If you have an eye condition that makes red dots hard to see, you might be interested in holographic sights.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on this particular Swarovski is pretty standard: 3.74 inches (95mm).

I found the eyebox forgiving. I use this scope in 3-gun competitions and I can easily see my shots from cover or around odd angles.

Durability

The Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 is nitrogen purged to prevent fogging.

The aluminum housing is sturdy and strong. It holds up to heavy recoil and can take a beating. As I said, I use this for 3-gun competitions so it gets thrown around and beat up.

This scope isn’t a “gun-safe queen” that I only bring out to the range on sunny days. I don’t treat it softly. It’s a tool and I work it hard.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The Swarovski L Z8i’s turrets turn with 0.1 MRAD clicks. The turrets turn with a tactile click that I can hear and feel.

The turrets are compact and unobtrusive. They are easy to turn.

Swarovski offers turret upgrades called Ballistic Turret Flex or BTF. These are aftermarket turrets you can swap out for both the elevation and windage ones that come standard from the factory.

They cost about $300 each and you don’t need extra tools to install them.

What’s the benefit of the BTF turrets?

Well, they allow me to set zeros for 3 different distances to better fine-tune your shots.

For example I can set and save zero for 100 yards, 250 yards and 500 yards to improve accuracy and take the guesswork out of hold overs or hold unders.

Personally, I think they are a worthwhile upgrade. If you’re going to spend almost $3000 on the scope, spending an extra $600 for pin-point customized accuracy is a no-brainer.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification range on this Z8i is 1-8x. The single power is a near perfect 1x. The true 1x paired with an illuminated reticle makes it easy to engage close range targets with both eyes open.

The 8x is impressively clear. I could easily pop 6 inch steel targets from 800 yards.

With the aid of a throw lever, I can slam through the magnification range on the Z8i for quick target acquisition or identification-making this a perfect optic for defensive or battle use.

There’s no questioning my target in low light situations because I can clearly see it.

Check out my list of the other top 1-6x scopes on the market for a comparison.

Mounting & Rings

This optic has a 30mm tube. Any 30mm ring set will work quite well. I prefer to use these mounts from Vortex. They are only compatible with a picatinny rail. They won’t mount to a weaver.

Is the Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 worth it?

Swarovski set a high bar for optic clarity that all optics companies are trying to reach. As Swarovski’s flagship scope line, the Z8i is the best scope you can buy.

They don’t need any extra bells and whistles that other companies add to their optics to distract you from their inferior glass and coatings.

As such the Swarovski L Z8i 1-8×24 is the worth it because it has:

• Durable design
• Flex-Change reticle
• Unbelievable clarity
• 93% Light transmission

Why settle for any old optic, when you can get the best?

2. Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 1-8×24: Best for AR-15

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 has a set of features that make it perfect for the AR-15.

In fact:

I’ve personally bought and hand-tested this scope to see if these claims were true, and they most certainly were.

Need proof? I’ve got it all laid out down below.

Glass Clarity and Reticle

The excellent glass quality gave me a picture with no distortion or blurring to be seen. Nothing but a crisp, crystal clear image of the target.

The glass is fully multi coated and excels at drawing in ambient light for a much brighter picture. Its anti-reflective glass reduces light reflections, making it perfect at drawing less attention to your position.

The reticle is horseshoe shaped and works perfectly for aiming at silhouettes. It draws my eye to the target quickly and is useful even at maximum range. I was especially impressed with how simplistic it was so that I could focus on what I was aiming at.

I was impressed by the illuminated reticle. Targeting was a breeze even around dawn and dusk, especially when combined with the multi coatings ability to draw in ambient light.

Eye Relief and Eye Box

The eye relief is a generous 3.4” and led to no issues even at max range.

As I expected once I saw how great the glass quality was, I didn’t suffer from eye fatigue even after several hours of use. The glass is clear all the way through and even around the edges there was no sign of blurring or distortion.

Eye box was also a non-issue. I was able to easily center my picture and didn’t have to get into an uncomfortable position to do it.

Durability

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 was designed to be as durable as possible.

During testing I dropped it, banged it around, and fully submerged it in water. The high levels of abuse didn’t even scuff the exterior of the scope, much less damage the interior. It also held my zero with no issues throughout the testing.

How was it able to do all of this?

The aircraft grade aluminum this scope is made of can already handle just about anything you can throw at it, but it also has an XPL coating on the lenses.

This prevents any dirt or oil from affecting the glass and helps prevent any scratches.

It’s also argon purged and completely waterproof.

You won’t have to worry about any fogging or moisture damage even in the roughest of terrains. The one tube construction gives it an extra layer of durability as well.

Elevation and Windage Turrets

The turrets on the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 are top of the line.

Each adjustment gave crisp audible clicks just as good turrets should. Even with heavy recoil they never adjusted without me wanting them to, which is one of the top criteria I expect from them.

The best part?

It only took me 20 rounds to find my zero, and it solidly held it for the next 300 after that.

Parallax and Magnification

The parallax is fixed at 100 yards, and even bouncing between magnifications this proved to work just fine.

The magnification is 1-8x. The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 is capable of landing some pretty distant shots, but its real strength is in the close to mid range. It is best used for close quarters combat, target shooting, or hunting.

While this scope would go best with an AR, even higher power rifles work well with it. I also slapped this scope on one of my lever actions, and it’s without a doubt the best scope for Marlin .45-70.

Mounting and Rings

The Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 does not come with any mounting or rings.

I highly recommend getting the Vortex Optics Pro Series rings, as they mesh very well with this particular scope. $60 for the 30mm is a small price to pay for keeping your scope secure.

Is the Athlon Argos BTR GEN2 worth it?

If you’re looking for a scope for your AR-15 that can deliver amazing glass quality, incredible durability, and unmatched versatility, then look no further than the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2.

Here’s why:

• Audible turrets
• Extreme durability
• Crystal clear multi-coated glass
• Horseshoe reticle for easy silhouette targeting

To sum it up: this scope has an amazing set of features that would be at home on any sort of semi-automatic rifle.

It’s a very reasonable price for the product’s quality, and I’m honestly surprised it wasn’t higher. The level of effort that was put in to make this scope incredibly durable with the high quality glass is clearly well above the norm.

So if you need an AR-15 scope that can handle any situation you get into, then look no further than the Athlon Argos BTR Gen2 1-8×24.

3. UTG 1-8×28: Best for the Budget

Searching for an all-around budget scope is tiring.

I’ve found one for you.

And it’s the best scope deal anywhere. Here’s why.

Glass Clarity & Reticle

Clear glass. Super clear.

The fully-multicoated emerald coatings on this scope allow maximum light transmission. With the 28mm objective lens, lighting just before dawn or after dusk can be tricky at high magnification, but it works well through most of the range.

In low light conditions, it will provide plenty of brightness at 5x or less to pop those pesky critters that keep attacking the chicken coop.

There are several reticle options available, so get the one you prefer. A BDC is available that is pre-set for .223 or 5.56 rounds, making this the perfect budget scope for an AR-15. It also comes in mil-dot and dot-circle variants.

In all cases, the reticle is etched, so if the battery dies you will still have a point of aim.

All of the extra colors seem a bit excessive to me personally, but I have mine set on the brightest red I could find and I just leave it there. If you want more color options, there are 36 in total, so you can go red, green, blue, yellow, teal, or whatever you want.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

Some say that a “true” 1x scope should have infinite eye relief, but the reality is that complex lens arrangements make this impossible.

Still, I tested the eye relief as soon as I picked up the scope, and at 1x I could fit my whole hand between my eye and the scope and see just fine. Then I read the specs.

A whopping five inches of relief at 1x, and it only drops to 3.4 inches at 8x. In short, the eye relief is plenty for any application, especially high kick rifles. It’s probably the best scope for lever action 45-70.

The eye box is roomy, bigger than the front objective, making the whole setup very pleasant in both hunting and battle situations.

Durability

UTG continues to innovate, trying to keep up with the likes of Leupold and other top manufacturers, while keeping their price point down.

The tube is nitrogen purged and sealed with o-rings to ensure that it is water tight and will never fog up.

They’ve also started using this coil erector return spring on some of their scopes. Think of this like the shocks on your car. Even under heavy recoil or an occasional bump, the inner guts are protected from damage and remain solid, holding your zero under adverse conditions.

It also uses a smart spherical structure to maintain integrity of the outer skin to inner components. Every piece of this scope was designed around being tough, and it lives up to that reputation on top of my .308.

With the included heavy-duty mount, all of this strength does come at a cost. The scope itself is 18oz and mounted can be over a pound and a half. More on the mount later.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The turrets have a solid click, a feature that I like.

There’s nothing worse than mushy turrets that make you take your eye off the target just to ensure that you have the right elevation dialed in for the range.

The ½MOA clicks are fast to dial in, and there are no caps in the way, so you can click over to the proper elevation and windage easily.

Parallax & Magnification

Parallax is fixed at 100 yards. This may bother some people, but if you have a solid cheek weld, you really can’t ask for more from a budget scope.

For the price of an air rifle scope, the important thing is how well the secondary focal plane and optical path are aligned. Even without adjustment, the maximum deviation due to parallax isn’t going to be enough to affect the shot too much, unless you are looking for a competition scope.

Mounting & Rings

The UTG 1-8X28 comes with its own mounting system. Depending on which variant you purchase, it will come with a single clamp mount for a Picatinny rail or two rings that will work with Picatinny or Weaver rails.

As I mentioned earlier, the scope rings are a little heavy, but they are also built ultra-rugged. This review on youtube suggested that you could smack the mount with a hammer and not budget:

I wouldn’t recommend that, but it is a super solid mounting system.

Is the UTG 1-8×28 worth it?

The UTG 1-8x28mm scope is the best all-around scope for the price, period.

For hunting, target shooting, combat, you name it, you won’t find a better optic for even twice the price. The only applications where you might want something else if if you needed a red-dot scope or a true long-range target scope.

• Fully-coated optics
• Responsive tactile clicks
• Wide magnification range
• Layers of durability through design
• Includes mounting rings, battery, and more

By the way, it also comes with a lifetime warranty from UTG!

If you want the best all-around scope for the money, the UTG 1-8×28 is it, hands down.

4. Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP: Best 1-8x FFP Scope

If you’re looking for the best 1-8x FFP scope, the Primary Arms SLx8 is the answer.

Not only does it have all the features you’d need in this type of scope, it’s also pretty lightweight and compact.

Once I tried it, I was hooked.

Want to know why? Keep reading…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Primary Arms SLx8 has amazing glass quality for the price.

In fact, I was surprised that the glass was just as crystal clear as scopes twice the price.

The lenses are fully multi-coated, which draws in more light and decreases glare for the brightest, clearest sight picture.

Plus, it has a ACSS® Raptor reticle, which is a first focal plane and extremely accurate at all available magnifications. It’s also designed specifically for AR-15, AK-47, and M4 rifles.

What’s great about this reticle is that at 1x it’s basically like a small red dot, which makes for super fast target acquisition like you’d need at close quarters.

Then, at the higher magnifications, you get the full Advanced Combat Sighting System, which allows you to make precision shots out to 600 yards.

On top of that, it has 11 illumination settings and even has one that works perfectly in the brightest part of the day. All powered by one CR2032 battery that comes with the scope. And it comes with a spare!

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The eye relief on the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP is very forgiving.

It’s 3.2 inches – 3.3 inches, which means you really shouldn’t need to worry about the eye relief on this scope, especially if you’ve got a good cheek weld.

Also, this scope has a quick focus eyepiece, which helps you to get on target faster than ever.

Durability

Primary Arms is well known for its high quality products and the SLx8 1-8×24 FFP scope is no different.

It’s lightweight and compact, which makes it perfect for any setup.

Plus, it’s waterproof and fogproof, so it’ll function in any type of weather. And I can attest to this, as I’ve dropped mine in a puddle while out hunting. It came out working just the same as before.

It also comes backed with a lifetime warranty, so even if you had a problem, Primary Arms will help you get it sorted out.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage knobs are ¼ MOA click adjustments.

The turrets adjust easily with just a finger click and there’s both a tactile and audible, solid click for each adjustment.

They are also low profile, which is really nice. Plus, they come with turret caps.

What about zeroing?

It’s quick and easy. I had mine zeroed in 6-7 shots at 100 yards. So far, it’s been dead on accurate and after 500 rounds, it’s still held zero.

Parallax & Magnification

The Primary Arms SLx8 has a variable magnification of 1-8x.

This is the perfect range for close to mid-range distances. Basically, it works perfectly for close quarters combat, out to varmint hunting and big game hunting ranges.

1-8x is probably one of the most popular rifle scope magnification ranges because it pretty much gets you everything you could need. Unless you’re doing long range competitions or need to shoot past 600 yards, which is not as common.

As far as parallax, it’s fixed at 100 yards and I haven’t noticed any distortion.

Mounting & Rings

This scope doesn’t come with a mount, so you’ll need to purchase one separately, but considering the quality of this scope and the affordable price point, that’s to be expected.

I recommend the Primary Arms Basic AR-15 scope mount.

It works great and that’s what I use for my AR-15 mount.

Is the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP worth it?

This scope is a great quality 1-8x scope at an affordable price compared to the competition.

You’ll get:

• Crystal clear glass
• Lightweight, compact
• Fully multi-coated lenses
• FFP ACSS® Raptor reticle
• Low profile, precise, capped turrets
• Short to mid-range precision accuracy

In short, you’ll get everything you could ask for out of a 1-8x rifle scope. Try the Primary Arms SLx8 1-8×24 FFP scope. You’ll be happy you did.

5. Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32: Best for Hunting

The Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 is the best scope for hunting, hands down.

In fact,

This is the best Vortex glass I’ve owned yet, and its clarity alone has given me the opportunity for crazy shots while hunting.

Want to know more? Here’s how…

Glass Clarity & Reticle

The Vortex Razor HD has crystal clear glass.

It’s sharp and bright with edge to edge clarity with optically indexed lenses.

The lenses are fully multi-coated and the proprietary XR Plus Fully Multi-Coated anti-reflective coating makes sure that the scope doesn’t compromise your position.

The lenses have HD Elements like premium extra-low dispersion glass. This delivers the ultimate color and clarity for high-definition imaging in the field.

The glass actually comes from the same factory as Trijicon and the higher end Leupold scopes- same quality, with half the price tag.

It comes with a G4 BDC reticle which is super clean, highly versatile, and crisp. Your eye is drawn to the fine dot in the center, even in low light.

The G4 features five hash marks and a simple sight picture. It’s a viable option for all classes of rifles- muzzleloaders, varmint, standard, and even magnum calibers.

This reticle works well for me and I’ve come to prefer the clean field of view on the top half of the glass. It’s saved me critical seconds in the field.

The locking ocular focus ensures your reticle always stays sharp and crisp after you’ve adjusted it.

Eye Relief & Eye Box

The Vortex Razor HD has 3.8 inches of eye relief and a very forgiving eye box.

It’s a comfortable distance for nearly any application. But practicing good cheek weld is always a good idea.

Durability

I’ve yet to be disappointed with Vortex’s quality and this scope once again checks all of the durability boxes.

Overall, the Vortex Razor HD has a rugged construction that’s waterproof, shockproof, fogproof, and ready for whatever you throw at it.

Plus, the lifetime warranty is great for my peace of mind.

First, it’s fully waterproof. The O-ring seals make sure it stays that way by preventing moisture, dust, and debris from penetrating the optic.

The single-piece tube ensures its waterproofness while also enhancing your base optics.

The scope’s Argon gas purged body means that the scope is fog-free over a wide range of temperatures or fluctuations. You’ll have a clear shot whether that’s in the snow, sun, or rain.

The one-piece tube construction is also better at keeping out moisture, keeping your scope fog proof for the rest of its life. Plus, with less moving parts, it’s more durable for heavy recoils.

Scopes have to endure a lot in the field. The Vortex Razor HD is prepared to take a beating thanks to the ArmorTek coating, hard anodized finish, and aircraft-grade aluminum construction.

At only 13.4 oz, this optic is incredibly light and built for speed. I hate lugging around heavy optics every day during a hunting trip.

The smaller scope size (only 11 inches long) also means you can run a lighter rifle with a lower profile- music to the backcountry hunter’s ears.

Elevation & Windage Knobs

The elevation and windage turrets are almost perfect.

Their large diameter makes the adjustments easy to read, accurate, and faster.

Plus they’re capped turrets which is a must for me. This gives them external protection that’s especially helpful when making long stalks in open country.

But they’re mushy.

The adjustments knobs feel soft and don’t have a strong click to them.

Despite the mushy feeling, they do track properly. This is the only con I’ve found with the scope so far.

Parallax & Magnification

The magnification ranges from 1.5x to 8x.

This is a broad and versatile range that’s ideal for hunting.

It might not deliver extreme long distances, but it’s optimized for close- and mid-range shooting with the capacity to 600 yards on a centerfire.

Plus, on a technical note, the zoom lens mechanism glides smoothly and cleanly through all magnification ranges due to the internal precision-glide erector system.

The parallax setting is fixed to 100 yards and has worked well for me so far.

Mounting & Rings

With the compact size, this optic fits best on a short action rifle. I recommend the Vortex Optics Pro Series Riflescope Rings in the 1-inch size.

Plus, those specific rings will work with a Ruger Scout as the ocular bell clears the scout Picatinny mount by a few thousandths of an inch without removing the scout mount.

The tube is too short to mount on a long action rifle using a standard mount, but it could work if you were to install a rail or cantilever mounts.

In the box, you get a 3-inch sunshade as well which has come in handy out in the field.

Is the Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 worth it?

The Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 is an incredible optic that packs premium durability and crystal clear glass into a lightweight, compact package.

It’s a great addition for sub-600 yard rifle hunters and shooters looking for a lightweight, optically superior, riflescope.

Here’s why it works:

• G4 BDC (MOA) reticle
• Large Diameter Turrets
• Vortex lifetime warranty
• XR™ Plus Fully Multi-Coated
• HD (High Density) extra-low dispersion glass

In short, this scope will give you the added accuracy you need at a reasonable price for your next hunting trip.

If you’re looking to dramatically improve your shooting accuracy, the Vortex Razor HD 1.5-8×32 will get you the results.

Now It’s Your Turn

I hope you enjoyed my best 1-8x scopeguide.

Now I want to turn it over to you:

Which rifle scope will you pick for your 1-8x?

Let me know by leaving a quick comment down below.

There are many benefits to night fishing for bass, especially during the summer months. Warm waters in evening hours make fish sluggish, so they are less skittish and more inclined to take your bait! Another great advantage to fishing at night is you usually have the water all to yourself—and after dark in high-summer is often the only time that is possible. While fishing at night may seem intimidating for those who haven’t done it before, it’s actually quite simple and easy to do. Ahead, get expert tips from angler extraordinaire Jerry Audet who shares important safety tips as well as secret tricks for the best success.

Why Go Fishing At Night?

Many fishermen are surprised to know that bass can be caught easily at night, but the truth is that bass really never stop feeding (provided water temperatures are adequate for their metabolism). They may be more or less aggressive based on a variety of factors, but they’re always looking for a meal—especially when the Sun goes down.

Bass have excellent senses that extend beyond vision, and the night actually gives them an ambush advantage, so they are more inclined to do their own fishing in the dark. In fact, even in the daylight, bass don’t rely on their sight as a primary sense. Instead, they detect vibrations and sounds to zero-in on their prey. Sight is reserved for the end of the hunt. They are great nocturnal hunters because they don’t have to see their prey to chase it down.

Safety Is Important

Safety is important—especially if you’re in a kayak or a boat. Make sure you use night fishing lights (called “running lights”), a loud horn or air can in case of an emergency, and a very bright light that you can flash at a boater who may not be paying attention. Fish in waters that you know well so you don’t get lost. (Don’t explore at night. Save that for during the day.). Also, always go out with a fishing buddy. Night fishing is really simple and easy once you get used to it. But if you’re nervous, we suggest fishing from shore first (which is far less complicated).

Any Special Gear?

No special gear is needed to fish at night, except a headlamp. Don’t use it while you’re fishing, only when you need to change a lure, tie a knot, or release a fish. Try to keep the light off the water, as it can spook fish. I like using a red headlight for this reason. Plus, it helps preserve your night vision. (White lights are blinding.)

How About Lures And Bait?

As far as lures go, many anglers think a glowing lure is important, so the bass can see it. But this simply isn’t true and may actually be a deterrent as it looks unnatural. Color matters a lot less at night, as the bass track your lures by sound and vibration.

Fish actually have an easier time seeing a dark colored lure at night, as the contrast with dark water or sky is easier for them to detect. The best nighttime colors vary based on what you are doing, how dark the night is, and how deep your lure is in the water. The higher up in the water column, the lighter your lure’s belly should be. This simulates nature.

Most fish and frogs have white bellies and bass are most likely looking up at the lure from beneath it. If you’re mid-column or down deep, use a dark green, black, or purple lure. However if you’re just starting out at night, white is a perfectly fine color. It’s easier for you to see and work with (in and out of the water), and it will catch bass the vast majority of the time (day and night).

At night, use lures that ride high in the water. Fish will slide into the shallows after dark looking for food (because they’re less afraid of being spotted by predators) and working those skinny waters means you are more likely to get a snag.

Using a lure that stays near the surface really helps prevent this. Something that throws a wake on the surface really draws the fish’s attention after dark. Some of the best night fishing lures include wake baits and slow-sink weightless soft-plastics (usually jerk-bait style), but subtle poppers, walk-the-dog lures, and shallow-running crank baits all work great. However, chances are that your favorite day-time lure will work great at night too. It’s just up to you to give it a shot!

Good luck night fishing!

Join The Discussion

Have you ever been fishing at night?

Had much success?

Share your experience with your community here in the comments below!

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They may not be the prettiest specimens on the planet, but then again, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. And we’re willing to bet you wouldn’t pass up any of these bucks because they were a tad asymmetrical. Some of these deer were taken by hunters who didn’t mind a lot of junk. One deer’s death remains a mystery, while another got “ran over by a damned old train.” Classic country songs aside, these are the stories of the biggest whitetail deer to make it into the Boone and Crockett records.

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Number 1 – Missouri Pick Up

Score: 333-7/8 Location: St. Louis County, Missouri Year: 1981

Its rack weighs more than 11 pounds, and it has more cheaters than a daytime soap opera. But that’s about where the drama ends for this guy. He was found dead inside a fence along a road in northern St. Louis County. A hunter who already had his buck notified the warden who got permission to retrieve it. They couldn’t find any bullet holes and didn’t have any ideas on the cause of death. It was only 5 ½ years old. The head was forgotten until the first of the year when the warden took it to the taxidermist who knew at first glance what he had. It was measured and dubbed the biggest and baddest whitetail of all time. It remains property of the state of Missouri on display for all its citizens to see.

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Number 2 – Ohio Pick Up

Score: 328-2/8 Location: Portage County, Ohio Year: 1940

Taken down by a train, this buck hung in the Kent Canadian Club in Kent, Ohio for years. Dick Idol, an outdoor writer and avid antler collector, acquired the antlers from the club a few decades after it died. He had it officially measured and the entry measurement had it coming in as number one. Idol declared it number one and started to spread the word that a new king was crowned. The buck still had to go before a Scoring Panel at the 19th Awards. The panel score was lower, and the buck was bumped to number two. According to the records, “The slightly lower score…is explained by the necessary interpretation of several points on the beam as being either typical or non-typical.” To be fair, the rack has nearly 200 inches of abnormal points.

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Number 3 – Brewster Buck

Score: 327-7/8 Location: Edgar County, Illinois Year: 2018

Yes, you’ve seen this buck here before, but don’t you think it’s worth another look? This is the biggest free-ranging whitetail ever taken by a hunter, and it was taken by a guy who is no stranger to world-class whitetails. Luke Brewster and his friends are whitetail fanatics with a knack for consistently taking giant bucks. The group called this buck Mufasa and Brewster (who lived in Virginia) was in the right place at the right time on a November morning when the buck stepped into bow range.

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Number 4 – Butcher Buck

Score: 321-3/8 Location: Chase County, Kansas Year: 2019

If you’re scoring a deer like this, it’s best to just clear the calendar and put on a pot of coffee. Brian Butcher had been hunting the same property for 13 years, and in April 2019 his trail camera snapped a photo of this creature. In the fall, Butcher returned to hunt in his treestand on the edge of a CRP field when the buck returned. At 25 yards, Butcher released an arrow. And it was all over—except the scoring, of course. That took a little while.

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Number 5 – Tennessee Tucker Buck

Score: 315-1/8 Location: Sumner County, Tennessee Year: 2016

For two years, Stephen Tucker held the crown of having killed the biggest free-ranging whitetail of all time before Brewster’s Illinois giant fell. Tucker killed his buck on his family’s small farm during Tennessee’s November muzzleloader season. It was, in fact, the second time he’d had the buck within range. The first time he saw it, Tucker had the buck at 30 yards, but his muzzleloader failed to fire. Eventually, Tucker caught up with the buck again.

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Honorable Mention – Bryant Crossbow Buck

Score: 304-3/8 Location: Fulton County, Illinois Year: 2001

Illinois isn’t known for harboring caribou, but the shovel-like eye-guard on this bruiser could have come from the Arctic Circle. Considering that hunter Jerry Bryant wasn’t after caribou or even a deer when he shot the new Illinois state record, the buck is a pretty good blind luck story. Bryant was minding his own business back in 2001 in a treestand on his buddy’s farm enjoying a Twinkie and some Mountain Dew with his trusty crossbow by his side. Because he was injured on the job a few years back, he couldn’t pull back his compound, so he applied and got a special permit to hunt with a crossbow.

A group of gobblers came into view, and when he reached for his bow (he was actually turkey hunting), they spooked and took off. Soon thereafter, a doe cruised by, urinated and moved on. Hot on her tail was Big Buck Jones (seen here). It stopped to sniff her puddle of pee, which gave Jerry a 15-yard slam dunk. The buck didn’t even flinch after being shot through the heart. It took a few steps, wobbled, and died. Jerry kept the news of the buck on the down low as he was going through a rough divorce at the time and didn’t want half his buck taken. Once court was adjourned, he revealed his 36-point buck.

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