What are the requirements of a good cartridge? Being easy to use, good speed, good trajectory, etc. are common features. In these terms, people choose cartridges for themselves. People find it difficult to find what is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM?

Both these cartridges are great to use. But you’re here to know the differences between them, and you’re about to purchase one of them. Right? Besides, your rifle will come with respect to the cartridge you choose. And you should also pick a perfect scope for 17 WSM to have a good experience.

What is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM?

You are reading this article as you need to find what is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM? Consumers had a great experience using both these cartridges.

But you cannot blindly select one of these. You have to filter one of them out based on some parameters. Believe it or not, the following specifications will help you to make a proper decision.

Speed:

In the case of a cartridge, speed is one of the requirements that consumers demand. If the cartridge cannot get enough velocity, then it is useless. Passionate rifle users like to have fast bullets in their rifles.

The speed of 17 HMR is greater with respect to 17 WSM. It is light in weight. As a result, it travels faster than the other. It is suitable to hunt birds or other animals at close range.If needed, you can use affordable thermal imaging scopes for WSM with its rifle.

The speed of 17 WSM is less than 17 HMR. It is heavier. So, it travels with less speed. However, it can make a hole in thick objects. Thick objects cannot be penetrated with thin bullets. So, this bullet is suitable for people who will use it to penetrate thick objects.

Cost:

Cost plays an important role while choosing cartridges. If your potential cartridge use is high, then you should go for the cheapest cartridge available.

The 17 WSM is more expensive between 17 HMR and 17 WSM. The 17HMR costs 20 cents only, whereas 17 WSM costs 30 cents. So, the cost difference is negligible for these cartridges. But you are not buying only one cartridge; you will buy hundreds or thousands of cartridges. However, this little amount can have a great effect in the long run.

The cost of the HMR might even get chipper in time. IT is completely the opposite case for the 17 WSM. 17 WSM will get out of the market sooner or later. As more and more cartridges are coming into the market, the public is losing interest in buying 17 WSM. The production rate has reduced, as well. So, the cartridge and the rifle both might get out of the market as well. As the quantity gets decreased, the seller might take advantage of it. People who have 17 WSM rifles have to buy 17 WSM cartridges, as it will not be available anymore, the seller will sell the product for a higher price.

Field Performance:

The core fact of cartridges is field performance. The choice of cartridge changes based on this parameter. Based on this parameter, other parameters are subjected to change.

Based on the distance of the target, your choice of cartridges will change. A lot of factors come along with an increase in distance.

In terms of a distant shot, time plays an important role. As time increases, the trajectory goes downward. The cartridge has to keep the trajectory for longer distances. If the trajectory decreases, the probability of the cartridge to miss the target will increase.

The wind may have other impacts as well—for example, wind deflection. When a bullet leaves the rifle, it starts flying with velocity in one direction. The wind is flying in another direction. As a result, the bullet might get deflected from the target.

The 17 WSM is the better cartridge to have a better field performance at a greater distance. Both these cartridges can work with the wind. Though, the WSM works better than the other in terms of long-distance.

17 HMR is great for a short distance. It is fun to work with. It has got a better speed than the other. It creates less noise than the 17 WSM. These are needed to hit the target at a short distance.

However, none of these cartridges should be used for self-defense, where many other cartridges are available. 17 HMR and 17 WSM both should be avoided in this term.

Availability:

Availability is a factor that many people do not consider. It creates different types of problem letters.

The 17 HMR cartridge is available. You may go to any ammunition store and find 17 HMR. The rifle of 17 HRM is also available everywhere. As the rifle is available, it is relatively easy to find separate parts if needed to fix the rifle.

The 17 WSM cartridge is not available everywhere. And it’ll be a hassle to find out either. You would find it difficult to find separate parts of the rifle if needed. The cartridge is a special kind. You can’t use this cartridge in any rifle, either. You need to have the 17 WSM rifle to use this cartridge.

In terms of availability, 17 HMR should be your choice.

Final Words

You are looking to find a cartridge that suits you. Go through the parameters given above before making your final decision. And you’ll be able to make a list of what is the difference between a 17 HMR and a 17 WSM? You should be economical while buying cartridges. So, 17 HMR is obviously a better choice for you.

If you need to hit a target at 450 meters distance under strong wind, buying 17 HMR is useless. The 17 HMR will fly up to 150-250 meters and then drop on the ground. You will need 17 WSM to do the job under such conditions. So, all these factors should be considered to get the best cartridge.

Imagine a buck so epic that it defends the crown as the Boone and Crockett world record typical whitetail buck for 30 years and counting. The typical whitetail world record is the holy grail of deer hunting records, the one many dream about, but very few even come close to touching.

This hunting season marks three decades since farmer Milo Hanson took down the world-record typical whitetail buck. Milo Hanson’s buck, harvested near Biggar, Saskatchewan on November 23, 1993. Its mark of 213 5/8 inches for a wild typical buck has yet to be surpassed in the whitetail deer hunting record book.

Milo Hanson’s world record is proving nearly impossible to beat. During its reign, it’s fended off multiple world-class challengers. Many dedicated hunters have scoured the wilderness to find a whitetail buck, either from Canada or anywhere else, with a rack frame large enough to qualify, but that doesn’t also have some abnormality that classify it as non-typical and thus disqualifying it from this record. Some failed upon panel scoring, and others were flat-out denied because of abnormal points that denoted a non-typical classification.

Here’s the story behind the famous Milo Hanson buck, and a few typical buck hunting record challengers that just barely missed the mark.

The Story of the Milo Hanson Hunt

In that corner of Canada, the Hanson buck of Saskatchewan was already a local celebrity a year before it met its maker during the 1993 rifle season. Local hunters first noticed it in 1992, and news of the massive whitetail spread quickly. Hunters from all corners of the region and beyond came to try to topple the beast. Neighbors reported sightings during afternoon gossip, and a school bus loaded with kids even caught a glimpse of him. At least one massive 5-point side shed was picked up that was believed to belong to him. This big buck had a target on his back.

And yet, somehow, he survived not only the archery season but also the muzzleloader seasons prior to the start of Saskatchewan’s rifle season. Milo Hanson and his buddies hunted for this particular deer with no success several times leading up to that fateful November day. At one point Hanson and a friend both passed on a gorgeous, 160-inch buck because they knew the big one was still out there somewhere and deer season wasn’t over yet. That ended up being a good decision, for Hanson at least.

The morning of the day that changed his life, Hanson was hunting his own property, doing a deer drive with some buddies. “On the night of November 22, we had fresh snow, and I called the guys to plan our hunt,” Hanson told Boone and Crockett. “The next morning, I met my neighbor, John Yaroshko, and we drove to meet Walter Meger and Rene Igini. When we pulled up, I knew something was happening because they were excited. They said they spotted a monster buck entering a willow run and it hadn’t come out.”

With a fresh snow to help them track, the deer hunters set up a small deer drive with one man pushing and three standers on either side. Hanson took the north side while his buddies covered the other, and one walked up the middle following a fresh track. The first time Hanson spotted the buck standing broadside about 150 yards from his position, a huge rush of buck fever took over. We can only imagine what it would be like to be that close to the biggest typical whitetail of all time!

He fumbled the first shot and missed the deer completely. The hunters regrouped near where they saw the buck go into cover and jumped him out again. Hanson’s second shot at the deer was a solid hit, dropping the buck down to his knees. The buck was still moving, though.

“Unfortunately, the buck got up and ran into a nearby aspen stand,” Hanson Hanson said to B&C. “I ran up the hill to where it disappeared and saw it below me, standing still. I aimed through my four-power scope and fired another shot with my .308 Winchester Model 88 lever-action. Down it went. I saw its head over a clump of willows. To ensure it stayed down, I fired another shot, and the hunt ended.”

Upon reaching the deer, the hunters discovered one of the .308 bullets had shattered and struck the back of the buck’s right main beam. While the shot cracked the antlers, fortunately, it did not break them.

Once news got out that Hanson had taken down the local legend, his farm became a hotspot for curious onlookers, and the phone started ringing off the hook. Hanson knew then he had something special on his hands. North American Whitetail magazine was the first to spread the news of Hanson’s harvest to hunters far and wide in the February 1994 issue.

What Was the Score of the Milo Hanson Buck?

The official Boone and Crockett net score of the current typical world record Milo Hanson buck was 213-5/8 inches. The 14-point buck had an inside spread that measures just over 27 inches. Its greatest spread was over 29 inches, and six of the 10 main points exceeded 11 inches.

What Did the Hanson Buck Weigh?

Hanson has stated many times that the most frequent question he gets from other hunters is about the buck’s weight. However, we will never know, because Hanson never weighed the deer, field-dressed or otherwise. He estimated in a 2010 interview with Outdoor Life that the live weight was probably around 200 pounds.

While that’s a heavy deer, it’s not exactly a large-bodied deer for Saskatchewan, where big whitetails pack on the excess body weight to get through the long winters. Hanson is a farmer in the Biggar area, which is known for agriculture, so there was no lack of food for the record deer. However, considering the fact the deer was not taken until November 23, it seems extremely likely he’d lost quite a bit of weight during the rut.

The most amazing fact about this buck, other than the 213 5/8-inch score, is the fact that it was aged at only three-and-a-half to four-and-a-half years old. There’s almost no question the world record whitetail had not even hit his prime yet when Hanson dropped him. It makes us wonder if it would have netted over 220 or even 230 inches with another year of growth—although no hunter would be crazy enough to pass up a buck like this!

It speaks to the quality of deer hunting in the area that a hear after harvesting his world record, Hanson shot a 171-inch buck, which no one knows or talks about because the “Hanson Buck” takes up all the headlines. After hearing that, there’s no doubt Biggar was the right place at the right time with the right genetics to produce a true monster.

How Big is the Milo Hanson Buck?

It’s hard to appreciate just how large the Hanson buck is unless you see it or one of the many replicas for yourself. At the time of the deer’s downing, the James Jordan buck from Wisconsin was the typical world record. The Jordan buck is no slouch, but the Hanson buck has it beat, thanks to a 29-inch greatest spread and a 27-2/8-inch inside spread. The G2s and G3s are also ridiculously long with a few of them reaching nearly 14 inches in length.

However, the Jordan buck has the Hanson buck beat on main beam length. Still, the Hanson buck’s 28-4/8-inch main beams are nothing to sneeze at. The right side of this great deer scores 95-4/8 inches while the left scores 98 inches. The gross score is 223-7/8 inches. There are only 7-1/8 inches of deductions. It helps that the buck only had 3-1/8 inches of abnormal points, all on the right side. The left has zero, which is an equally impressive tidbit that’s hardly mentioned.

What are the Hanson Buck’s Main Challengers?

As for the Hanson buck’s challengers, there have been many. Most infamous is the Rompola buck, allegedly taken in Michigan back in 1998. Hunters are still divided if the 218-5/8-inch deer was a hoax, or a hunter who simply did not like the limelight. We may never know the truth.

In 2006, it looked like Wisconsin would regain its crown as the holder of the typical world record with the Johnny King buck. That deer initially grossed over 220 inches and netted around 218 as a typical. That was until a Boone and Crockett scoring panel determined the buck’s G3 and G2 points shared a common base, causing massive deductions that resulted in a score around 180 inches net. The Johnny King buck still inspires passionate opinions among hunters, though.

In 2021, an Indiana musician named Dustin Hoff came close when he set a new second-largest typical whitetail deer of all-time record. The monster buck, which surpassed the Jordan Buck for the number two spot, is still the largest whitetail ever killed in the United States, according to the record books. The buck’s official B&C score is 211-4/8 points.

Then there was “The General,” a massive whitetail that roamed Nebraska back in 1958 and didn’t resurface until the 1990s. This buck had massive 32-inch main beams, 14-inch G2s, and 7-inch mass measurements. The antlers gross nearly 240 inches and net in the 220s. There’s just one problem: It’s a set of sheds, and no other antlers from the deer are known to exist. Because of this, the exact inside spread is unknown, and B&C do not recognize sheds in the record books.

Did the Milo Hanson Buck Get Sold?

The original Milo Hanson buck hasn’t been sold, as of this writing. Milo Hanson continues to maintain ownership of the mounted buck that he shot in 1993. He has sold the buck’s likeness for licensed use on merchandise and for replica mounts.

What is the Hanson Buck Worth?

While the once-in-a-lifetime buck made Hanson some money in licensing, he also said it made his life more hectic. Suddenly, he was in demand for sportsmen’s show appearances and spent a lot of time traveling with his mounted buck.

In the 2010 interview with Outdoor Life, Hanson pulled back the curtain behind what it’s like to be the hunter of a world-record buck. He estimated he made $60,000 a year off his record buck for almost a decade—or at least $600,000. While many world-class whitetails have found their way into private collections over the years, the Hanson buck remains in the hunter’s possession. That said, in that same interview, he noted he’s never received an offer close to what he has made on the deer.

Could the Hanson Buck Record be Broken?

As with anything hunting-related, anything is possible. Will this 2024 whitetail deer hunting season be the one where the Hanson Buck is finally dethroned, or will it remain the undefeated typical champion? Only time will tell.

READ MORE: The Worst Poaching Cases So Far in 2024

Rigging dead bait to catch pike is one of the more popular methods used to catch these fish. When northern pike just won’t rise for spoons or crankbait using bait fish can be a great way to land a few fish. There are a number of different methods depending on the technique you are using from bottom fishing, float fishing, casting, trolling or even ice fishing.

Pickerel Rig

This is probably one of the best known and most commonly used dead bait rigs for pike and also walleye. Very inexpensive ( a few dollars) and hardy, you will land a number of fish with one before needing to replace it. These rigs consist of a length of monofilament a few feet long with two steel arms to hold the bait away from the mainline.

At the top is a barrel swivel with bearings to stop line twist. Below that are the two metal arms, these also incorporate red beads as a way to attract the pike’s attention. A snelled hook on a short (4 inch or so) monofilament leader is then added off these arms.

Lastly on the very bottom is a snap to add fishing sinkers. This makes it great to use in lakes or even targeting a pocket of water in faster moving rivers where pike may be hunting.

I use the pickerel rig a lot as a dead bait rig for pike both in open water and ice fishing season. I will often use two different baits on them. Something like an anchovy on one and then a green or yellow smelt on the other.

Quick Strike Rigs

The quick strike rig consists of two or three treble hooks with monofilament leader. The commercially available rigs can have a wire leader instead. In there most basic form you can just make your own with the leaders going up to a central loop. Additionally you can add red beads as an extra visual attractant. A barrel swivel at the top is also a good idea as pike love to roll after they feel a hook set.

I have used quick strike rigs for a few years now when ice fishing with tip ups and, they are absolutely deadly. My usual tactic is to use a much larger bait such as an 8 inch herring, looking to land a solid 3 foot+ northern pike.

Jackfish Rig

Jack fish rigs are quite similar to Pickerel rigs. Instead of the monofilament leaders holding the hooks in this case there is a solid steel leader. Jackfish Riggs still incorporate the red beads to help attract pike. These rigs normally have larger hooks then the pickerel rigs. Another thing I will do with a jack fish rig is swap out one of the hooks for a jig head.I find yellow or green jig heads particularly effective in this case. There is a little spring holding the hook in place on a jack fish rig that makes this modification quick and easy.

Snelled Hooks

Standard snelled hooks will work fine for applications such as float fishing. Suspending a deadbeat underneath the float is ideal for some situations such as heavily weeded areas where you don’t want to get snagged constantly. Also can be good if you know fish are holding in a certain depth. This will work with a standard bobber and with a slip bobber.

Big is ok as far as hook size is concerned. For decent-sized smelt and anchovy try a 2/0 or 3/0 size snelled hook. If the pike are only small hammer handles ( 12 or 16 inch fish) you may want to downsize a bit and go with a 1 or 1/0 size hook. Again this will depend on your bait size as you don’t want a massive hook for small shiners.

Rigging Jig Heads with a Minnow

I’ll often use just a standard jig head paired with a dead bait instead of a soft bait. This technique will work great with anchovies or colored smelt. I seem to have great success with yellows and greens. There are even jig heads with a small propeller that seems to work well if you’re moving them in the water for extra Flash.

You have to make sure to use a steel leader when using a jig head. Pike are notorious for severing through fishing line.

Tipping Spoons with a Minnow

Another great way Of using dead bait is tipping the end of your artificial lure with a small piece of bait fish. A small piece of belly meat from a bait fish added to a spoon introduces scent to an already flashy presentation.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Can you use “Bait” from the Grocery Store?

The grocery store is great place to get bulk bait fish to use as pike bait. You can often get several times more smelt or anchovies for the same price as a package from your local bait shop.

Can Pike Smell?

They can indeed, pike will follow a scent trail a fair ways underwater. Their sense of smell is not as well developed as some species. For this reason its good to use high oil bait fish. I prefer anchovy for this reason. During ice fishing season I will thaw anchovy overnight in a Ziploc bag to make them extra juicy and stinky.

Pike will eat carrion naturally so smelly dead fish is their thing. If you are going for larger pike consider a much larger dead bait on a quick strike rig. Herring are a good choice for this again as they are an oiler fish.

Some people will also catch and freeze suckers for this purpose also. Suckers arnt considered game fish so you should be fine to do this in your state or province. As always its smart to consult your local fishing regulations about this.

How do you make Dead Bait Rigs for Pike?

You can easily make a quick strike rig for pike fishing with dead bait. In its simplest form all you need is a few feet of monofilament and a few treble hooks. The exact size will vary depending on the bait fish you are rigging from smelt all the way up to foot long white sucker fish.

I personally will have one side of the rig shorter than the other. This will ensure a “head down” presentation as most fish take bait fish head first. I also tend to go with smaller treble hooks for my quick strikes. Some people also add a third treble hook to the rig, if the regulations in that jurisdiction allow .

Should Dead Bait Hang Horizontally or Head Down ?

When you were rigging a dead bait for Pike with a quick strike rig you have a couple of options on how to orient the bait. A very popular way is to make sure your folks are set of equal length so the bait hangs horizontally in the water. Another popular option is with a shorter leader on the dorsal hook and a longer one on the head hook so that your bait will hang head down in the water. Many fish will take a bait head first which is why this is also advantageous.

Pike will eat carrion naturally so smelly dead fish is their thing. If you are going for larger pike consider a much larger dead bait on a quick strike rig. Herring are a good choice for this again as they are an oiler fish.

Some people will also catch and freeze suckers for this purpose also. Suckers arnt considered game fish so you should be fine to do this in your state or province. As always its smart to consult your local fishing regulations about this.” } },{ “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “How do you make Dead Bait Rigs for Pike?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “You can easily make a quick strike rig for pike fishing with dead bait. In its simplest form all you need is a few feet of monofilament and a few treble hooks. The exact size will vary depending on the bait fish you are rigging from smelt all the way up to foot long white sucker fish.

I personally will have one side of the rig shorter than the other. This will ensure a “head down” presentation as most fish take bait fish head first. I also tend to go with smaller treble hooks for my quick strikes. Some people also add a third treble hook to the rig, if the regulations in that jurisdiction allow .” } },{ “@type”: “Question”, “name”: “Should Dead Bait Hang Horizontally or Head Down ?”, “acceptedAnswer”: { “@type”: “Answer”, “text”: “When you were rigging a dead bait for Pike with a quick strike rig you have a couple of options on how to orient the bait. A very popular way is to make sure your folks are set of equal length so the bait hangs horizontally in the water. Another popular option is with a shorter leader on the dorsal hook and a longer one on the head hook so that your bait will hang head down in the water. Many fish will take a bait head first which is why this is also advantageous.” } }] }

Any bass angler will likely tell you that topwater fishing provides some of the most exciting bass bites to behold. There is nothing like the visual action of an epic topwater blow up, after all it’s one of the only forms of bass fishing where you actually get to see a bass attack your lure.

Which is why most anglers can’t wait for early dawn or dusk hours, and the warm temperatures of spring and early summer, to break out topwater lures and start walking, popping, and buzzing to drive bass crazy. But the truth is, while topwater lures are traditionally best during late spring and early summer, they can be used in most seasons and varying water temperatures and still catch fish.

1. Rebel Pop-R
2. Whopper Plopper
3. Livetarget Hollow Body Frog

Top water lures come in all shapes and sizes, and in most cases float. The bulk of them are made of hard plastic and are equipped with treble hooks. Treble hooks help increase your chances of having a fish get and stay hooked when they strike, since bass can often miss a topwater lure, or barely hit it. This is especially true for the fast moving models.

They’re not all made from hard plastic however, some are made of solid robber, soft hollow plastic, metal, or a combination. A buzzbait for instance is made up of a metal wire, metal/plastic propellor, and a rubber skirt. It’s also one of the few topwater lures that do not float.

When selecting a topwater bait, you should start with fast moving lures and reduce the speed by methodically switching to slower moving ones if your not getting strikes. This is how you find out how aggressive the bass are that day. Sometimes they will chase almost anything, and other times will only go after a very easy target.

Here are five of the best topwater lures that you should be using:

1. Popper Lures

Poppers are floating lures with a cupped mouth, meaning the front of the lure has an indented bowl shape. In the mouth is where the line attaches, and where all the action the lure creates comes from. This is one of, if not the slowest moving topwater lures.

When fishing a topwater popper, you simply cast the lure out and let it float. You then jerk your rod pulling the lure and causing the mouth to plow through the surface of the water. As it’s being pulled it makes a “pop” as water bubbles up over it. Some are designed with bigger mouths for a slower but bigger “chugging” action, while others have smaller mouths and made for working a little faster with smaller pops.

For more info visit the Topwater Poppers page

2. Walk The Dog Lures

These floating topwaters are long and skinny, usually equipped with a pair of treble hooks. Most models are torpedo shaped. Because of their shape they are often categorized as stickbaits, but since their walking action is so unique they have their own category.

They are called “walk the dog” lures because you have to “walk” them across the surface. The walk-the-dog action is created by jerking the rod tip repetitively with your wrist, causing the lure to zigzag from side to side. The motion creates disturbance on the surface and mimics an injured baitfish. It’s one of the best topwater lures because you have a lot of control in the action you want to give off.

For more info visit the Walk The Dog Lures page

3. Frog Lures

Hollow body frogs might be the most weedless lure there is. They have a soft plastic body that is designed to collapse and expose the hook as bass bite down on them. The lure floats and the hooks face upright, leaving very little chances for getting hung up.

This is a great advantage in bass fishing because you can cast in areas you could never with other lures. Lily pads and other floating vegetation are the ideal places to fish topwater frogs. Bass hide out under these types of vegetation as they provide a great source of oxygenated water, shade, cover, and food. So dragging frogs across the tops of them entice the bass below.

For more info visit the Topwater Frogs page

4. Buzzbaits

Buzzbaits are the fastest moving topwater lure there is, so if your looking to cover a lot of water quickly they are your best bet. They come equipped with a propellor designed to make the bait travel across the waters surface while disrupting it and causing a ton of commotion. As the blades of the prop spin and hit the water surface, they create a splashing and rippling that really appeal to bass.

Buzzbaits are great for fishing around cover like along weeds and timber. They’re somewhat weedless since the hook faces upright as it travels through the water so you can cast in a lot of areas other topwaters can’t get to.

For more info visit the Buzzbaits page

5. Prop Baits

These torpedo shaped floaters do all the work for you as you reel them in. They come equipped with one or more propellors that spin as the lure is retrieved. As the propellor spins it disturbs the surface and creates a noise that bass can hear and feel.

They are far from weedless so working them around the edges of cover is best. Typically you would only use these on a calm day when the surface is still. The props are smaller than the ones on a buzzbait so if there’s a heavy ripple from wind on the surface then the action these lures give off is not going to be very noticeable.

For more info visit the Prop Baits page

Spring and early summer are big topwater seasons because water temperatures are just right. Water temps have a big effect on bass behavior and how they feed. In temps less than 55 degrees bass are very inactive, same is said for temps above 80 degrees. When the water is in between those temps bass are energetic and aggressive, the two main ingredients required for good topwater fishing.

The reason dusk and dawn are so well known for being the best times for topwater fishing is they are low light conditions. Bass spend most of their lives staying out of the sun, because unlike humans, their eyes do not adjust to brightness. That’s why they are often found under docks, trees, lily pads, or even in deeper water. Once the sun is down though, they travel to the open shallows in search of food.

The depth range of a body of water, and water clarity, play a big role in topwater fishing. They are also a factor in what is considered “shallow”, but typically one to four feet is the range, and the best depths for topwater bass fishing. Additionally, in clearer waters, bass holding at deeper depths can still see a topwater lure or struggling baitfish on the surface.

A struggling bait fish is most often what bass think they are seeing when a topwater lure is in action, sputtering and slashing on the surface. There are topwater lures that imitate all kinds of prey like frogs, mice, even small birds, but in most cases a struggling baitfish on the surface is what they are targeting.

So when is the best time for topwater bass fishing? In low light conditions like dusk, dawn or over cast days, when the water is warm (60 degrees plus), when the water is somewhat clear, and when baitfish are active. Bass also have to be pretty active to hit topwater. If it’s a slow bite like after a cold front, the topwater bite will likely be very slow.

If you own a taxidermy mount, it is always a good thing to keep it clean. Keeping it clean prevents unwanted guests from touching your taxidermy. Suppose there are any concerns about insects damaging your taxidermy. In that case, it is important to occasionally inspect your mount-especially around the mouth, antlers, and around the ears- for signs of any pests.

Cleaning your mounts often ensures that they look fresh and lifelike. Depending on the type of mount you have, the cleaning process will vary from one to the other. Here are a few tips on how to clean and care for Taxidermy Bird Mounts.

Dust your bird regularly

Cleaning your bird mount is crucial as it ensures that dirt or dust does not build up. The frequency of dusting your bird depends on the place you live, among other factors. People who live in dustier areas will need to do the cleaning more often.

When removing excess dust, a feather duster works well. You can also dust your bird mounts by gently brushing them using a cotton ball in the direction of the feathers. In addition to that, you can also use a hairdryer at arms-length to de-dust your bird regularly.

Please make sure the hairdryer is in its most relaxed and lowest setting and use it in the same direction as the feathers to avoid damages. Do all this instead of using solvents. The birds’ feathers usually have some natural oil that several solvents can strip, leaving them more brittle.

All the skin surface of birds such as legs, the skin around the eye, beaks, and featherless skin areas for some birds like the vultures’ neck and the head is some species have preparators painted on them. Cleaning these places with solvents may not work well with preparators. As a result, using solvents should only be a last resort.

In cases where you must remove dust on bird taxidermy mounts held by grease emanating from poorly prepared skins, you will have to use some solvents cautiously. Make sure you are using gentle solvents and take your time.

Start by using simple distilled water and barely-damp swabs and see if that solves the problem. If the dust is stubborn enough, move up and use non-denatured 70% ethanol. It is doubtful you will find any dusty taxidermy specimen that requires anything more potent than the non-denatured 70% ethanol.

Do not immerse the specimen in any solvent or leave it wet. Do not wet the skin of your bird mount unless it is a featherless area. If you also wet the featherless skin areas, be sure to dry them thoroughly. Birds have fragile skin, and moisture can quickly wick through it, making it swell and split.

Use lacquer thinner

If your Taxidermy Bird Mounts have residual dust on the feather, experts recommend we avoid using water. Water tends to matte and messes up with the feathers. Instead, lightly dampen a rag with lacquer thinner and wipe the mount off. The feathers absorb lacquer thinner as it evaporates, quickly bringing out the shiny bit of the bird’s feathers. When brushing your bird, be sure to wipe it gently and in the same direction as the feathers. However, it would be best if you stayed away from all painted areas.

Keep it out of the sun

Your Taxidermy Bird Mounts need to be displayed prominently but be sure where you put them. Avoid placing your mounts in direct sunlight. Direct sunlight will breach the feathers of your bird, making them fade.

To ensure that you maintain the original richness and vibrant colors of your birds’ feathers, keep them out of direct sunlight. Place your mount near a window, and they will soon succumb to damage because of too much presence of ultraviolet (UV) light.

For white-coated birds, the UV light will change them to yellow. For bird mounts with darker colors, they will become bleached. If the only place to showcase your birds is near a sunny window, make sure you install quality UV blocking window films.

Be wary of smoke

From wood-burning stoves and burning logs in fireplaces to smoking cigarettes and cigars indoors, it is essential to know that smoke can ruin your Taxidermy Bird Mounts. Therefore, avoid displaying your mounts over smoke-producing fixtures or hanging your prized taxidermy trophies in your cigar room.

In addition, prolonged exposure of your artworks to smoke will discolor them. To clean smoke damage from your taxidermy, you need to follow a few steps:

• In a bucket of warm water, mix three droplets of dish soap.
• Agitate the solution to make a sudsy solution
• Get a clean sponge and saturate it in the sudsy soap solution
• Squeeze out all the excess solution from the sponge so that it is damp but not soaking wet
• Wipe the stuck smoke gently and in the direction of the feathers

Use OdorXit to eliminate odor in Taxidermy Bird Mounts

Do you have a bird mount that is smelling like rancid fat or meat? Smelling mounts can often be worrying, and at the same time, can put you in a dilemma on the next step to take. Birds have feathers, and their bones are very thin and fragile.

How can you remove the fat and muscle without destroying the feathers and skin of your taxidermy bird?

Most taxidermy trophy owners ask themselves this question. The answer is, you can inject small amounts of 20 to 1 OdorXit solution into the fingers and wing joints. OdorXit eliminates the odor quickly. To take care of the exterior odor, spray 30 to 1 OdorXit solution onto the feathers and skin.

Your taxidermy mount always deserves the best treatment and care. That is why you need to work with professional and compassionate bird taxidermist who understand and care about your pet. If your mounts crack or become brittle, they can restore them. If your fur/feathers are not in good shape, or you have a cracked tongue or nose, the taxidermist can re-clay them. They always ensure that your bird is in perfect condition every time you mount it. With tips and experience possessed by taxidermists, they will make sure your artwork lasts forever.

It seems, for the commercial pistol market, the future is in your holster.

The last half-decade has seen a veritable onslaught of options from every major manufacturer we can think of — from the first-generation of true pocket pistols, focused on “shrink it down and smooth it out,” to the current iteration of modular, high-capacity models with shorter sights and longer grips that are too big for your pocket but too small for your duty belt.

But there’s one pistol platform that never really fit in with the slick carry gun crowd — the 19/2011 genre of pistols. It’s not that these guns are strangers to the concealed carry role. In fact, Rock Island Arsenal devised the “General Officer’s Model Pistol” in the early 1970s.

This was a junior-sized variant of the 1911A1 with a 4.25-inch barrel, similar in form factor to the Colt Commander. Shortly after this, Detonics released their 3.5-inch Combat Master. In the mid-1980s, Colt followed suit with the Officer’s ACP, sharing that 3.5-inch barrel length.

Unfortunately, the Officer’s ACP quickly gained a reputation for being very snappy and not very reliable. Compared to modern striker-fired pistols, the 19/2011’s action is a little more complex, and cramming all those parts into such a restricted living space tends to create issues.

Since then, a number of companies have released 3.5- and even 3-inch 19/2011-style pistols in both single- and double-stack configurations. As a whole, they’ve seen mixed results over the years, but conventional wisdom has held that, once you shrink the 19/2011 operating system below 4 inches, performance takes a nose-dive.

Enter the new Staccato CS. Staccato has spent the last several years laboring to make the double-stack 2011 — once solely considered to be a rich man’s gamer gun — both ruggedized and accessible to the masses.

The team at Staccato tells us that their pistols are now approved for duty use by more than 700 law enforcement agencies across the country, no small feat considering that the first-generation Staccato P launch was covered in these pages less than five years ago. Since then, they’ve brought an entire line of 2011s to market for duty, carry, and competition use.

The most diminutive of those was the single-stack Staccato C, with a 3.9-inch barrel, which was released in tandem with the C2, a double-stack model of the same length that could accept the entire range of full-size 2011 magazines from abbreviated 16-rounders all the way up to 26-round “happy sticks.” Certainly short enough for a carry holster, both the C and C2 still nicked the edge of that unspoken 4-inch minimum length for reliability and smooth operation.

The Staccato C was discontinued from production in late 2022. We heard rumors of this in advance, with whispers that its replacement would be a new, even-shorter double-stack model. Admittedly, we were wary of the swap. We really enjoyed the slimmer, single-stack profile of the C, finding that the “Officer Double Stack” grip on the C2 was a little too wide for us to carry without a sport coat or sweatshirt to cover it up.

We were also keenly aware of the functional issues that could arise from shrinking a 2011 to the forbidden length. The bottom line is that we expected a sawed-off C2 and were skeptical of that concept’s merit. Then, we got our hands on the CS. It was explained to us at unveiling time that the CS includes several proprietary internal and external design changes.

After getting up-close and personal with it, the Staccato CS has not only transcended our previously held notions about 3.5-inch 19/2011 pistols, but recaptured our interest in the evolution of the 2011 as a platform.

SKIN DEEP

For the uninitiated, 2011s consist of three main parts: the polymer grip module, the metal frame (dust cover, rails, skeleton for the grip, and some other parts), and the upper half — the slide and everything inside it. These pieces aren’t plug-and-play across sizes and models, though gunsmiths and enthusiastic tinkerers have managed to find some combinations that work between existing Staccato variants.

Both the grip module and frame on the CS are completely different from any existing Staccato. We’ll talk more about the frame shortly, but the grip circumference is significantly reduced compared to previous models.

They also toned down the texture a little. If you’re familiar with the wraparound “star stamp” texture on larger Staccatos, you’ll know it’s a good aggressive treatment for hard shooting, but less optimal for against-the-body carry. By contrast, the CS grip sports a fine-grit sandy texture with more refined contours.

That grip is designed around a new magazine. There’s good news and bad news here. The bad news is, if you already have one or more full-size 2011s, those magazines won’t be cross compatible with the Staccato CS. With 2011 mag prices reaching well-north of $50 each, we understand if the idea of having to start a second mag collection to feed the CS might be disconcerting.

But these 16-round sticks are leaner, with an improved follower design to optimize feeding at the steeper angle required in short guns, and every CS pistol will ship with three of them in the case. Not only is this a general value-add, it’s also the typical number of mags required for a two- or three-day pistol class. In our mind, this is Staccato’s attempt to send potential buyers a message — the CS is a carry gun that’s meant to be shot as much as it’s carried.

To the same end, the CS also comes optics-ready, with a section of Picatinny rail on the dust cover for a carry light. In our testing, only two lights would fit properly on the Staccato CS light rail: SureFire’s XSC and Streamlight’s TLR-7 Sub. Since both lights are handgun-specific, make sure you pick up the 1913 rail version. None of the larger weapon lights we tried would fit.

BEAUTY ON THE INSIDE

While we appreciate the aesthetic and ergonomic updates, where the CS really makes its money is under the hood. Staccato has made some meaningful changes to the internal design, with the aim of amplifying all of the existing advantages of the 2011.

One of the most noticeable design changes is that the CS is Staccato’s first model to feature an external extractor. To 19/2011 purists, this may appear at first as a step backwards. Especially in the 1911 world, external extractors are sometimes considered a warning sign of mass-produced pistols that have not felt the gentle touch of gunsmith that all 1911s inherently require.

Sometimes they’re seen as a sign of laziness or lack of knowledge on how to properly tune a traditional extractor.

We think it’s safe to say that Staccato pistols aren’t built lazily or without knowledge of the platform. When talking with the Staccato team, they said the switch to external extractors was made for a couple of reasons. One was ease-of-maintenance for the armorers at those 700-plus professional agencies that authorize or issue Staccatos on a widespread basis, since the spring or even the entire extractor can be replaced without having to detail strip the slide.

The other is consistency. They can drop the same extractor, with the same matching spring, into each and every CS, as opposed to having to hand tune a traditional extractor, which introduces some element of human variance between pistols. They also tell us that even with zero tension (a round manually hung on the hook falls off), their external extractors pulled spent brass effectively and repeatedly during normal firing.

With Staccato’s hard focus on the LE duty market, refining their design to run under the worst possible conditions is an ever-present goal.

Once you get the slide off the gun, you’ll notice the CS also has continuous, full-length frame rails. Larger model Staccatos have interrupted frame rails, a requirement to accommodate their full-size double-stack magazines.

But with the narrower profile of the new CS magazines, full-length frame rails become possible again — a boon to slide/frame fit and accuracy. Staccato designers went one step further by cutting thin grooves on the inside of the rails to hold lubricant on the rails longer.

It was previously held wisdom that thinner lubricant was generally preferred by Staccato pistols, to permeate the tight slide/frame fit. The side effect of this tight fit is that lubricant can be pushed or worn off the rails more quickly and that built-up carbon doesn’t have anywhere else to go.

The new frame rails, in addition to lubricating grooves, also have small half-moon cuts on either end so that grit and debris can be pushed out of the rail grooves as the slide reciprocates.

How well does all this stuff work? Staccato tells us that all of their previous testing has yielded a rough bracket of 1,000 to 2,000 rounds before the slide loses lubrication and starts dragging on the frame rails from carbon buildup. With the new rails on the CS, pre-production test samples were able to run 3,000 to 4,000 rounds before those effects set in, since lubricant can remain on the rails longer and build-up can be “scrubbed out” more easily during the firing cycle.

While the CS’s short barrel is fluted, they’re applied sparingly and specifically. There are two longitudinal flutes applied at the 4- and 8-o’clock positions on the barrel. While they might not do much to reduce weight, their purpose is to act as a heat-release feature.

The shorter CS action, combined with increased amount of metal-to-metal contact between the barrel, slide, and frame, opens the door for rapid heating of the pistol during high volume shooting.

Much like the inclusion of three magazines, the design logic of including a couple barrel flutes points squarely to the notion of training with your carry pistol consistently and aggressively.

Finally, there were some changes made to the recoil system to optimize it for reliability in the shorter workspace of the CS frame. We do know it’s a toolless, multi-stage system with some similarity to previous designs, but Staccato was pretty tight-lipped on the specific changes made here. Regardless, we found the system to work consistently and effectively for managing recoil, even during sustained rapid-fire testing.

ROUNDS DOWNRANGE

Our very first rounds downrange on the CS were shot at Staccato’s live launch event, where they had several different courses of fire set up to highlight various aspects of the CS’s performance capability. We started on the long-range challenge, which had C-zone steel arrayed from 50 to 200 yards. In our first six shots fired through the CS, we scored hits on 50-, 75- and 100-yard steel. That set the tone for the remainder of our range testing.

Over the course of the following 500 to 700 rounds, we put the CS into as many hands as we could, including the range staff at our receiving FFL, several student athletes from the Wildgats Scholastic Shooting team at University of Arizona, and most of the RECOIL editorial team.

This subcompact powerhouse received universal high remarks and only suffered one stoppage — the result of a squib load while shooting some 147-grain subsonic rounds. Once we tapped the slug out of the chamber and reassembled the gun, it continued to run like a Swiss watch for the duration of our testing.

LOOSE BRASS

Staccato announced that the first CS pistols should be shipping to dealers by the end of 2022, so as you read this, you should be free to go pick one up, if the $2,499 MSRP doesn’t stop you from leaping off the couch.

The price of admission has never been low for 2011s. But it’s worth noting that a highly accurate, highly reliable Staccato costs about half of what it would have taken to get the same level of performance from a 2011 a few years ago. They also don’t require aftermarket assistance to live up to their potential.

SPECS:

Staccato CS

• Caliber: 9x19mm
• Capacity: 16+1
• Barrel Length: 3.5 inches
• Overall Length: 7.1 inches
• Weight: 22.7 ounces
• MSRP: $2,499

ACCESSORIES

• Optic: Holosun 507C $309
• Light: SureFire XSC $359
• Price as shown: $3,167

While most shooters mistake the Beretta M9 and M9a1 as one weapon, their primary differences lay on their outer surface and build as their mechanical alignment and functioning are similar. This article aims at shedding light on the few differences observed between the two.

Well, there is not much to differentiate between them; the few differences that I came across in my research were not one you may ignore. Even the slightest curve in a handguns stock builds holds a significant effect on its performance. Before diving into these aspects, let us first take a look at a general overview of these Beretta products.

Beretta M9

The Beretta M9 is an Italian made semi-automatic pistol explicitly designed for 9mm. It is among a long catalog of 9mm Beretta handguns and ranks among the top sellers and most favored in the shooting genre. Its popularity mostly lies in the fact that the US armed forces adopted it as the official side firearm during the ’80s. Because of this, we saw them being a preference for most law enforcement officers in the modern world.

The internal engineering of this handgun features a short recoil accompanied by a single or double action mechanism. Its magazine capacity is 15 of 9mm rounds, which is standard for a day to day handgun user. Its design accommodates both left and right-handed shooters with a reversible magazine release button correctly positioned for the two types of shooters.

The Beretta M9 is also a perfect option for personal or home defense since it is among the most reliable firearms from Beretta. All of its parts are 100% interchangeable, with a wide variety of replacement parts available. Its flexible nature also simplifies its maintenance even when on intense conditions.

Beretta M9A1

The Beretta M9a1 is an evolved gun from the M9 and features specific improvements in its design, resulting in a better performance. These modifications make the handgun perfect for tactical encounters mostly to occur with the US marine corps. They incorporate the previous m9 features and marry them to other adjustments and additions to meet the essential need for the ever changing tactic approaches.

The fact that it features more excellent reliability and effectiveness than the m9 makes it an even better option for self-defence and concealed carry. Its performance is traced back to its premium components and flawless manufacturing. Not only is this Beretta handgun deliver quality and consistent performance, but its exterior build is also a sight to behold.

A unique sand resistant coated magazine and a three-dot sight on its build are some of the outstanding improvements placed among the top-rated handguns. In more than one article, the Beretta M9a1 has been mentioned as among the best Beretta 9mm handguns. It is practically the easiest to maintain with its compact nature and vast replacement options. It also features a disassembling button that eases the breaking down the process of the gun. Those who have had the opportunity to feel this weapon can testify to its premium results.

Differences between the Beretta M9 and the Beretta M9a1

Now that we are all familiar with both weapons, why don’t we dive right into the distinguishing features?

Sights

The material used in their make is the only similarity in their sights, as the M9 features a two white dot front sight for your sighting needs. On the other hand, the M9a1 has a more detailed three-dot feature. This includes one dot on the rear segment and the other two strategically positioned at the front piece.

The primary purpose of sight is to ease your target acquisition by providing a fixed plane to base your aim. Beretta gun makers have been in the firearm game for as long as I can remember, meaning that they have undisputed experience in what makes up a perfect sight for a gun. It is no surprise to find that both components on the two weapons are made of steel for more durable and productive use.

I believe that the M9a1 sight is best for most shooters due to their detailed build.

Accessory Rail

I honestly do not see the need to add more accessories to your handgun, mostly Beretta made ones. It just adds on more weight to your gun, offsetting the average balance of the weapon. Despite my opinion, most shooters find lasers and other sighting additions best for their Beretta guns. If you are among this crowd, then you should opt for the M9a1 since it has a Picatinny rail available on the bottom front side of the barrel.

The M9, on the other hand, does not have any railing to accommodate any additional accessory. Instead, at the location where the Picatinny rails on its counterpart, it features a prefix serial number. This differentiation does not make the M9 any less as both these weapons are close competitors in the shooting field.

Magazine

The magazine on both these Beretta handguns has an equal capacity of 15 9mm rounds and is made of the same material. The difference between their magazines being their coatings.

The M9 was first to be released between the two, meaning that it was first to hit the shooting fields. After several trips into the battleground, its users found that its magazine casing faced damage as a result of exposure from sand and other natural elements.

Later, when the M9a1 joined the market, it featured an improved PVD coated magazine casing. This magazine was also sand resistant, meaning that it could maintain its quality finishing even after excessive exposure to these elements.

Grip

Every experienced shooter realizes the importance of a quality grip in a grip. Among the components that hold significant influence in the aim and performance of a gun lies this crucial piece. Both gun grips have proven to be reliable no matter the encounter; however, their nature includes some differences.

The M9 grip has a smooth front and back lining on its grip and only features a side checkering plastic that provides the required grasp on the gun. On the other hand, the M9a1 grip has a strap checkering that provides more natural and comfortable handling of your handgun. It also plays a significant role in reducing the recoil felt, and you will achieve better results on consecutive shots.

Markings

To some, this build engraving might not be seen as a difference. However, since there are not many of the differences to list down between these two similar handguns: I found it an important difference. You can easily tell the difference just by looking at the gun’s engravings.

The M9 is a military used weapon hence its military-style markings on its finishing. On one side of the firearm lies a “US 9mm M9 Beretta USA” engraving that is visible even on a longer distance. The official build and serial number lies on the other side of its body and adds a unique feel to the handgun. It is only featured on the M9, whereas the M9a1 only features a serial number engraving on its surface.

M9 vs 92FS

The Beretta 92FS is among the long catalog of 9mm pistols from the Beretta makers. Actually, the 92FS pistol is based on the M9 model and features explicit modifications that improve its performance both on paper and in the field. These modifications result in a civilian edition of the military-grade M9; its evolution is innovative and features creative adjustments to its functioning.

In this section, we will discuss the minor improvements that lead to this perfect self-defence weapon.

Sights

Like all Beretta 9mm handguns, both these weapons feature iron sights fixed correctly at the front and rear. The M9 then features a two-dot sighting pair, with the front and rear sections having a white dot in their make. To some shooters, this is an excellent characterization that provides them with accurate and satisfying results.

The 92FS, however, has a three-dot sight, which is more detailed and promises even more accurate results. Two of the white dots are strategically positioned on the rear piece while the front company holds the third dot. This third white dot proves to be useful for finessing your aim and improving the target acquisition.

Hammer

Among the complaints that came from the M9 military use included claims that the slide shot back towards the shooter upon firing. This malfunction was responsible for causing severe damage to most military men during combat, compromising the troop’s success.

The Beretta team considered this when designing the 92FS, and installed a larger hammer pin. The giant hammer eliminated the risk of the slide flying backwards to the shooter, allowing for safer use. Considering that the 92FS was explicit for civilian use, such malfunctions would result in extreme damages.

Grip

In comparison to the M9, the 92FS features a narrower handle with a distinguished arc on its hold. Only with close observation of the grip will you notice this arc that extends to the gun’s beaver-rail. The M9, on the other hand, has a broader stock, and no turn is noticeable in its body finish.

Judging from their grip structuring, it is correct to conclude that the 92FS has better handling with its slim grip nature. It allows for a better fit on the shooter’s palm, improving the shooter’s control of his or her firearm. Here are some of the Best Beretta 92F grips

The Best Overall:

In conclusion, both these weapons are perfect options depending on their applications. For tactical encounters, I would suggest the M9, whereas defensive approaches are best for the 92FS.

Most Popular Handgun Accessories

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Can Civilians Own a Beretta M9?

Regardless of DOD claims, you can successfully purchase a military-grade M9. The only requirement you need to meet is to be in a state that does not restrict firearm usage. Beretta is marketing these pistols as law enforcement pistols.

Why did the Army Replace the M9?

Following claims sourced from army officials, the M9 did not meet required standards for modern combat. Besides, cost analysis showed that its repair costs were equivalent to purchasing new service pistols. This is what led to their discontinuing in certain troops.

Would a 9mm Kill a Bear?

Yes, a 9mm would kill a bear. However, the bear would die of the injuries rather than the weapons stopping power. Before the bear falls to its demise, it will still have enough energy to cause severe damage to you.

Conclusion

The M9a1 is just an improvement of the M9 version, which I highly advocate for because of its magazine coating and Picatinny rail in its build. Its grip is also an aspect that sways most shooters find attractive over the M9.

However, the M9’s association with the US military gives its counterpart a run for its money. In conclusion, both are significant purchases and come at pocket-friendly pricing.

To most people, spring fever means days on the water, family cookouts in the backyard, and a long-awaited wardrobe transition. For turkey hunters, however, the mainstream intrigue is only secondary to the nonstop chaos of breeding competition among gobblers, and all of the incredible hunting opportunities the season brings. The same hunters get restless once they have a taste of the action, itching all year long to get back into the budding woods with a shotgun and a repertoire of calls and strategies they’ve been sitting on since last season. And, while good game calls and effective hunting blinds are necessities, nothing throws an exclamation point on a turkey hunting approach better than some well-placed decoys. With such a large market for decoys, however, it can be difficult to know which ones are worth spending your money on.

Sometimes a big Tom just needs a little extra motivation to con him into archery or shotgun range, so we did the research to find the best turkey decoys on the market today.

Avian-X HDR Jake and Hen Turkey Decoy Combo

This combo is perfect for areas full of especially aggressive birds, as they offer a wildly lifelike appearance that’s sure to bring big Toms in on a string. Each decoy is blow-molded and comes with two interchangeable heads to change up your presentation on the fly. And to make things more convenient in the field, they come with a carry bag for easy transport to the field, as well as carbon ground stakes for a quick-and-easy setup.

MOJO Outdoors Tail Chaser Max

For the hunters who like the run-and-gun approach, this is a hard option to beat. This turkey fan decoy comes with a printed photo-realistic Tom in a full strut position, which folds up for portability. It also features legs that help give your gun a steady rest for the shot, which will probably come in handy after being on the move just to get into position. And, if you want a little more realism, you could always attach a real turkey fan, too. At $40, this is a bargain.

Lucky Duck Lucky HD Collapsible

This is a solid, versatile option for only $70. If you’re lucky, you might even find it on sale for less. Made of durable plastic and a folding metal stake, this strutter turkey decoy folds up to make it easier to transport. Similar to the last option, this fan is also removable if you prefer having a real one, which might give you a slight edge to draw in that old, aggressive gobbler.

Dave Smith Decoys Jake Turkey Decoy

The Dave Smith brand has a great reputation for turkey decoys of exceptional quality, but they do come at price. This Jake decoy is made of a resin and has over 70-perfect five-star ratings on the Cabela’s website. The company claims its decoys can stand up to being shot multiple times without showing damage. Each includes a ground stake and a handy carry bag for transportation, and features exceptional attention to detail.

Primos Gobbstopper Turkey Decoy Combo

Anything from Primos typically lives up to the hype these days, and these soft-sided decoys are no different. Each decoy included in this combo folds up quickly with stakes and a carry bag, making them great for when you need to wander far off the beaten path for that prime spot. For $70, you get a Jake and a hen that are sure to enrage any big gobbler that sees them. Boasting a high rating on the Cabela’s website from buyers, this is a great option for shopping on a budget.

Dakota Decoy X-Treme Feeding Hen

If you want a hard plastic decoy that is designed to last many seasons, this feeder hen is a solid choice. This is perfect for a more casual setup sure to ease the nerves of hesitant birds. Built of EVA plastic, this decoy is airbrushed with fine details that will consistently draw in big birds. Additionally, the metal stake stores inside the body when not in use.

Montana Decoy Fanatic

Another fan decoy built for stalking, this option offers great portability, as well as a see-through mesh window so you never have to break the illusion of another bird. This setup allows you to sneak up on those birds that are wary of your stationary decoys. For a mere $44, you can’t go wrong.

Flextone Thunder Chick Hen Decoy

Besides having an awesome name, this is a solid decoy at a price that’ll fit almost any hunter’s budget. Blow-molded and built of a one-piece construction, this decoy boasts both durability and simplicity. Flextone also includes a carbon-fiber stake, and offers both a feeding and an upright option, which gives you flexibility in your setup. Ideally, you can buy more than one and set up a variety of different looks to coax cautious birds.

Davey Smith Mating Motion Pair

If the big birds are too wary of your strutter decoys, you may need something more to draw them in. Few decoy setups spice things up more than a controllable mating pair. A cord allows you to manipulate gobblers with this Jake-and-hen combo, which presents the potential to absolutely enrage territorial gobblers that ignore every other kind of setup. Like any other Davey Smith decoy, this combo isn’t cheap, but users swear by its effectiveness. It also comes with ground stakes and a carry bag.

Hunter’s Specialties H.S. Strut Hen and Jake Combo

These two foldable, hollow-body decoys are sure have the big gobblers running, and at an affordable price. These decoys feature flake-resistant paint that should last season after season. Both are bright and colorful, guaranteeing at least a look from any curious gobbler nearby. For the hunter on a budget, you get two solid decoys for $70.

Avian-X Strutter

For one of the best Tom turkey decoys on the market, it’s hard to go wrong with the highly-rated Avian-X. This strutting decoy comes with a silk tail standard, but includes the ability to add real feathers. Many hunters consider this the gold standard for strutting gobbler decoys, as so many have tagged out using it.

Redhead Reality Series Crazy Jake

Nothing will fill a dominant Tom with rage more than a young Jake strutting in his territory. This one is smaller than other strutting decoys, which should prove less intimidating for birds that are shy of standard-sized decoys. You can also adjust the look by mounting a real tail fan or by trimming the beard. For $50, this is a bargain.

For more outdoor content from Travis Smola, be sure to follow him on Twitter and check out his Geocaching and Outdoors with Travis YouTube channels.

READ MORE: HIGHLIGHTS FROM OUR WEST TEXAS TURKEY HUNT