Most air gunners know that shooting in cold weather has its challenges. The air is thinner, so the pellet loses velocity faster. But what exactly happens to an air gun in cold weather? Here’s a breakdown of how different types of air guns are affected by the cold.

CO2

CO2-powered air guns use small cartridges of pressurized CO2 to propel the pellet. These cartridges are sensitive to temperature changes, and can actually freeze in colder weather. When this happens, the gas inside the cartridge expands and can rupture the cartridge. So, if you’re using a CO2-powered gun in cold weather, be sure to keep extra cartridges on hand in case your gun freezes up. It’s also a good idea to keep your cartridges in an insulated pouch close to your body to keep them warm.

Spring-piston (springer)

Guns with steel springs are commonly used for hunting and target shooting because they’re very powerful. But that power comes at a price—namely, these guns are very sensitive to changes in temperature. Cold weather can cause the metal spring inside the gun to contract, which decreases the power of the shot. So, if you plan on using a steel spring gun in cold weather, be sure to sight it in at the range first so you know how much compensation you need to make for the reduced power.

Gas springs

Gas springs are similar to steel springs, but they’re made from a high-strength alloy that is less affected by temperature changes. However, gas springs can still lose some power in colder weather. They also tend to be louder than steel springs, so if you’re hunting in cold weather, be aware that your gas spring gun may give away your position if you take a shot.

Precharged guns (PCP guns) and other pneumatics

Precharged pneumatic (PCP) guns are powered by compressed air or nitrogen instead of a spring or gas cylinder. This makes them much more resistant to changes in temperature since compressed gases don’t expand or contract as metal springs do. PCP guns also have fewer moving parts than other types of air guns, so they tend to be more reliable overall. If you plan on doing any shooting in cold weather, a PCP gun is your best bet.

For more on the best PCP air rifle on the market, see this post

Juniper is a versatile plant with plenty of uses: in the kitchen, in gin-making, in the garden as a hedge or even as a decorative bonsai.

Juniper (Juniperus) is a decorative woody plant that has a unique look, aroma and healing properties. Here you will find out how to plant and care for juniper plants and why juniper berries are technically not berries at all.

Juniper: blooms, leaves and other characteristics

The juniper genus (Juniperus) belongs to the cypress family (Cupressaceae). The genus contains about 80 species, of which only two occur naturally in Central Europe. The other juniper varieties are almost all distributed throughout the Northern Hemisphere – from the Arctic to tropical regions. Evergreen juniper trees or juniper bushes grow upright, creeping or horizontally and give off a strong fragrance. Their leaves are needle-shaped or scaled, often soft and slightly flattened, but sometimes very pointed. Juniper flowers are often white or pink, very small and inconspicuous. Juniper is better known for its cone fruits, which are often called berries. Until the female cones have reached their blue colour, they have to ripen for up to two years. Juniper is dioecious, which means separate male and female juniper plants are needed for fertilisation.

But how big does juniper grow? Size varies greatly from species to species and ranges from a one metre tall shrub to a ten metre tall juniper tree. The common juniper (Juniperus communis), which is often planted in milder European climates, reaches an average height of about five to eight metres.

As well as being used as ornamental plants, juniper fruits are used to make gin, essential oils and condiments. They are also high in antioxidants and anti-inflammatory in nature – juniper berries are often used as a natural remedy to treat bronchitis.

Tip: Juniper is a traditional grave decoration, as their evergreen foliage and spire-like growth was thought to represent eternal life.

How to plant junipers: the right location and method

The Juniperus genus is very undemanding and robust, which is why you can plant any juniper in just about any location.

Only shade should be avoided: junipers need a lot of light to thrive. A place in the sun is ideal, while partial shade is tolerated too. Juniper is not overly sensitive to drought and even chalky soil is no problem for this hardy plant. Make sure the soil is well draining, though the juniper will also tolerate a location that is occasionally moist.

Tip: If you want to harvest juniper berries, plant one female and one male juniper plant.

Spring is the best time for planting junipers, but it is also possible to plant in early autumn. Spacing between juniper and other plants depends on the species and its growth characteristics. Place the root ball of the juniper in a bucket of water to soak. Then dig a planting hole in the desired location that is about twice the size of the root ball. If your garden soil is very heavy, you should dig the hole deeper. Mix the dug up soil with plenty of sand to improve water drainage. Then place the juniper in the hole, fill with soil and press down. Make sure to water the freshly planted juniper well.

Potted juniper: You can also keep some small junipers in pots and place them on your patio or balcony. Juniperus communis ‘Compressa’ or Juniperus squamata ‘Blue Star’, for example, are suitable for this. Add a drainage layer of clay shards to the bottom of the pot to ensure good drainage. High-quality potting soil, such as our Plantura Organic All Purpose Compost, is perfect for potted juniper.

Tip: Junipers can be used to form an excellent hedge. To do this, reduce the plant spacing and place two juniper plants per metre of hedge. The columnar juniper Juniperus scopulorum, is one variety suitable for this job.

How to care for junipers: the right location and method

There is not a huge amount to consider when caring for junipers. Although the plants grow slowly, they do not require any additional care. Only young junipers require watering and, depending on the time of planting, winter protection can be helpful.

Juniper care: watering and fertilising

Since junipers cope well with drought, there is no need to water larger, well-established plants. However, you should water freshly planted, young junipers regularly to support healthy growth. In the first few years however, watering is only really necessary when it is dry. Likewise, junipers do not usually require fertiliser, given they are planted in a suitable location. Nonetheless, in sandy soils or in pots, apply a little slow-release fertiliser occasionally. Junipers need a nutrient balance that is low phosphorus and high in magnesium. Because of these special requirements, our Plantura Rose Food is actually ideal for junipers. You should also be sure to repot your potted junipers every so often, as fresh soil stimulates healthy growth.

How to prune juniper

Juniper tolerates pruning well, which is why it is often used in topiary. Bear in mind, however, that juniper grows slowly and takes longer for new shoots to form. Although it is not strictly necessary to prune junipers, it does encourage branching. When pruning, avoid cutting into the old wood: After heavy pruning, older junipers barely produce any new shoots. A large, healthy plant can be pruned back a little more. Although, it is not guaranteed to regrow. To avoid this risk, simply remove visible dead branches in spring and regularly prune back young junipers slightly. Since juniper needles are very sharp, always wear gloves when pruning.

Common juniper pests and diseases

Although juniper is very robust, there are still some pests and diseases that plague the sturdy plant.

• Phomophis blight (Phomopsis juniperivora): Also known as conifers dieback, this disease results in brown discoloured needles and small black fruiting bodies of the veru fungus that causes the disease. To treat, cut all affected parts of the plant back extensively.

• Juniper ermine moth (Argyresthia trifasciata): If the shoots turn brown from the tips, you may have an ermine moth infestation on your hands. You should seek advice from a plant protection service on how to best combat this for your individual plant.

• Rust fungi (Gymnosporangium): Hawthorn rust, pear rust or juniper rust are caused by various rust fungi. You can recognise them from their yellow, tongue-shaped fruiting bodies and swollen shoots. Cut off any infested parts of the plant and dispose of them in your household waste. These fungi can spread to other plants, such as pear trees.

Juniper propagation

The best way to propagate junipers is from cuttings. To do this, take a young shoot from the main shoot in late summer. This should be slightly woody, but still green at the base. Cut off the stem bark with a sharp knife and remove the tip of the shoot and the lower needles. Then plant the cutting into a mixture of all purpose soil and sand and place the whole thing in a bright place with high humidity at around 20°C. Keep the soil moist at all times. By spring, roots should have formed and the juniper is ready to be repotted or transplanted outdoors.

Tip: When propagating, be sure to use a cutting from the juniper’s main shoot because the conifer shoots will “remember” their growth direction. A side shoot, on the other hand, will not grow straight up after propagation.

Are junipers winter-hardy?

A well-established juniper does not need any extra protection in winter. Though young plants should be protected with a layer of mulch. For potted juniper, place it on a wooden block and wrap it with some jute or a hessian sack to be safe.

Harvesting and using juniper berries

Of all the varieties, common juniper (Juniperus communis) is the one most commonly used in the kitchen. The cone berries of the female juniper are ripe as soon as they turn dark blue. This happens two years after pollination. The berries are used, among other things, in juniper tea or for making gin. Other species, such as the savin juniper (Juniperus sabina), are poisonous in all parts. Juniper wood contains essential oils and are also often used to flavour meat.

Tip: Savin juniper was also used in the past for medicinal purposes. It was used, among other things, to clean wounds, for respiratory problems and abortion.

Are juniper berries poisonous?

Juniper species are slightly poisonous in some, sometimes in all, parts of the plant. While common juniper berries were used in the past for medicinal purposes, they also contain substances which, in excess, can cause irritation in the gastrointestinal tract or on the skin. Juniper should not be consumed during pregnancy or if you have kidney problems. Excessive juniper consumption is also poisonous for pets. Savin juniper is even classified as poisonous and can cause severe irritation and skin blistering from skin contact alone. Vomiting, diarrhea, and blister pain are among the most common symptoms of savin poisoning.

Juniper and heather shrubs are happy to share the same sunny, dry and sandy locations. And like juniper, the type of heather “cross-leaved heath” is very popular in gardens too. Learn all about how to care for it in our article on cross-leaved heath.

Very few firearms have been a top choice for military, police, and civilian shooters alike for over half a century like the Beretta M9 series.

Two of the updates of the M9 design, the M9A1, and the M9A3, are still some of the more compelling full-size handguns on the market today. But, what are the differences between these two guns, and which is the best option for you?

While both of these pistols are truly world-class designs and come from the same general blueprint, there might well be some differences between the two that make one better than the other for your purposes.

The Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3 are very similar in terms of specs and overall design. The M9A3 has a higher capacity and is a bit more customizable, with a threaded barrel, longer rail, and removable front sight. The M9A1, on the other hand, has a three-dot sight and a slightly shorter barrel.

In this article, we’ll compare each of these gun models head to head, getting into specifics of size, ergonomics, optics, controls, and more.

Products Mentioned In This Article

Beretta M9A1

For a lot of folks fighting in the Global war on terror, their first encounter with a pistol was a Beretta M9A1. According to Beretta’s website, the M9A1 was designed specifically to meet Marine Corps requirements that were cognizant of not only Desert Storm in 1990-91 but the then-ongoing conflicts in Iraq and Afghanistan.

The main thing that folks transitioning from the M9 to the A1 variant would be likely to notice is the inclusion of a Picatinny rail on the underside of the pistol’s frame. This allows users to attach lights and lasers, greatly enhancing the operational capabilities of the weapon. From there, the changes are more subtle.

The front and back straps, as well as the grips, of the A1 model are more aggressive than its older counterpart to make it easier to grip while sweating or wearing gloves. Additionally, the M9A1 came with magazines with a specially designed coating to resist the sand that is so common in Iraq.

Basically, you can think of the M9A1 as a slightly refreshed and face-lifted model of the M9, with both some cosmetic and performance improvements to make it a more effective weapon for troops in the field.

If you’re looking for a Kydex or hybrid Beretta M9A1 holster, check out our selection of IWB and OWB holsters here.

Beretta M9A3

If the A1 model was a refreshed version of the M9, the A3 variant is something like what folks in the car community might call a restomod: a redesign and retrofitting that keeps the original design philosophy in mind, but that stretches performance to its limits.

The A1 model was adopted into military service in 2006. With about another decade of learning in the field, arguably the best research and development on the planet, Beretta came out with the A3 in 2015.

The M9A3 adds even more Picatinny rail to give users more options for installing lights and lasers, in addition to larger, 17-round magazines. The grip was also thinned out, with the option to add a more traditional, thicker grip. Finally, the magazine geometry was changed to make it easier to reload by feel.

In effect, the M9A3’s list of changes represents a fine-tuning of the M9A1 into one of the most compelling military pistols that are in current or recent use.

If you’re looking for a Kydex or hybrid M9A3 holster, check out our selection of IWB and OWB holsters here.

Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Specs

Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Size & Capacity

With most of these comparisons, we’re going to be splitting hairs, since both the A1 and A3 are iterations of the M9 design. There are, however, some meaningful differences when it comes to size and capacity.

As you can see in the chart above, the two pistols are very similar in size, with an inch here and an ounce there being added and subtracted in the various dimensions of the two designs.

Importantly, the M9A3’s standard magazine capacity is 17 rounds, two more than the older design. Those two rounds in effectively the same sized pistol lead us to lean a little bit in the direction of the M9A3 in this category.

Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Ergonomics

Frame

The major difference in the frames between these two firearms is that the M9A3 has a slightly more vertical hand position than the M9A1. For folks picking up both of them for the first time on the same day, the A3 might feel a little more natural to point and shoot. If, on the other hand, people spent many range days with the A1, then the older model will likely feel more like home.

The difference in frame geometry is also somewhat offset given that the A3 can be used with a thicker grip that is the same size as that of the A1 as well as its standard, very slightly thinner grip profile.

Slide & Barrel

Here is where things get a little bit different: while the slide on the two guns is extremely similar, the two major upgrades on the A3 model give it the edge here.

First, the A3’s slide can be switched between models with or without a decocker. While this is a niche feature, it’s one that some folks will deeply appreciate, considering you can have a new slide shipped to your door.

Second, the A3’s barrel comes threaded from the factory, making the A3 a better choice for people who might be thinking about suppressing their M9s.

Generally, the A1 and A3 shoot very similarly in terms of their slide and barrel, but the ability to more easily suppress the A3 with the included threaded barrel might sway some folks. Oh, also, the M9A3 comes in Flat Dark Earth in case you want your M9 in a color other than black.

Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Sights & Optics

This might be the category in which these firearms differ most from each other, and where a lot of users might make their choice between them a little clearer.

The M9A1 comes with white three-dot sights that are relatively easy to use in the daytime, and reasonably well at night.

The rear sights are adjustable on the A1 model, meaning you can drift them left to right to zero the pistol, or replace them entirely with a mode of your choice from the aftermarket. But, and this is important, the front sights are integral and are not coming off without a grinder.So, if you like a white dot front sight, good. If not, then you might like the A3.

The A3 model was designed so both the rear and front sights are removable. This opens users up to a lot more options, including raised sights for use with suppressors, making the threaded barrel that much more useful.

You can attach a light or laser on the bottom of the frame of both the A1 and the A3. The A3 does have a longer Picatinny rail in addition to being able to swap out the front sight, which the A1 cannot do.

Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3: Controls

Safety

In their stock configurations, both the M9A1 and M9A3 have a combination decocker and safety, which makes it possible for these guns to be carried with the hammer down on a live chamber safely.

Here the edge goes to the M9A3 since it is possible to buy a slide that only has a decocker. Many folks consider the additional manual safety to be redundant and unnecessary. There are ways to do the same thing to an A1, but it’s a lot more involved than simply popping on a new slide like you can with the A3.

Trigger

The trigger on these two firearms is identical for the purposes of most shooters: it’s a double/single-action trigger that takes some getting used to.

With DA/SA triggers, the first pull is a heavy one that cocks the hammer and then fires a round, while subsequent shots are lighter and shorter. This means that the shooter will have to get used to two different trigger pulls to shoot either of these handguns well.

Which is Right For Me?

Because the A1 and A3 models of the M9 are so similar to each other, the choice here will be a mostly personal one depending on your preference.

If you’d like to get the most modern version of the M9, with the ability to easily use a suppressor and upgraded sights along with larger lights and lasers, then the M9A3 is for you.

The Beretta M9A3’s accuracy might be a little bit better than its older predecessor with some upgraded sights, better grips, and more optics options on the bottom of the frame. And if the accuracy doesn’t help, then you get two more rounds to hit the target.

With that said, one thing to seriously consider is the possibility of getting an awesome deal. Since the M9A1 is no longer in production, you can often buy them for less, and they make great concealed-carry guns. The Beretta M9A1 specs are certainly nothing to scoff at, and it’s an excellent defensive tool.

Summary

The variations between the Beretta M9A1 vs M9A3 are very small. The two pistols are very similar in size, with the main differences being in their sights and slides.

Overall, both of these make an excellent choice of full-size handgun, and either one would serve you well: if you want the most modern version go for the A3 model, but an A1 at a deep discount in the local gun store would be an almost ideal gun for people who plan to shoot a lot and want good quality for the money.

If you’re looking for a new IWB, OWB, or pocket carry holster, visit our Holsters by Gun Model page for Kydex holsters that are custom-made for your weapon of choice.

Interested in items beyond holsters? Check out our Resources Page for links to recommended products like lights, lasers, first aid, maintenance, and more, and browse our selection of belts, apparel, and accessories at our website, vedderholsters.com.

To stay up-to-date on all the latest Vedder Holsters content and offerings, check out our blog and follow us on Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter. And be sure to visit our sister company, GeoGrit, for all of your American-made minimalist wallet needs.

If you are interested in crossbows or have one, you may know that their arrows are called bolts. The terminology is confusing because some people call arrows, while others insist they are bolts. Most manufacturers agree that you can call them arrows or bolts, but there are distinct differences.

This term bolt dates back to medieval times when oxen were huge contraptions on wheels drawn by crossbows. They used short projectiles that didn’t have vanes and looked like darts. Some say they were called bolts because when they hit the enemy, they hit it like a bolt of lightning.

How Do Bolts Differ From Arrows?

The primary difference between a bolt and an arrow is the length. Technically, bolts are shorter than arrows, and they don’t have their stabilizing vanes in the back. When crossbows were first made in the middle ages, they were huge devices that were in wheels, and they were drawn by oxen.

They were used by the military, and it was the first weapon that was considered simple to use, inexpensive to make, and operable by most untrained soldiers. Back then, the projectiles were shorter and heavier than arrows, and they could make it through chainmail. They would hit the target hard and fast, and it was unexpected, so they called it a bolt.

Differences Between Bolts and Arrows:

• Bolts are 16 to 22 inches long, while arrows are 27 to 32 inches
• Both have four parts, including the shaft, the fletching, the broadhead, and the nock
• Bolts are heavier than arrows
• Bolts shoot straighter due to design
• Bolts penetrate better
• Arrows are deadlier at further distances
• Arrows are more accurate at longer distances
• Bolts have a slower load time
• Heavier bolts make for quieter shots

How Are Crossbow Bolts Constructed?

There are different parts to the crossbow bolt, including the length, the weight, the type of nock, and the shaft materials. Different crossbow manufacturers recommend the type of bolt that will shoot best. You should follow their recommendations because they will include other information such as the length, weight, and type of nock you should use. You need to choose a bolt that fits with their recommendations or you can risk damaging the crossbow.

Bolts are constructed similarly to arrows, but they are tougher because they need to withstand the pressure of being shot at more than 400 fps. They are usually 16 to 22 inches long, with 20 inches being the most common length. You should go shorter than 16 inches because the field point or broadhead could get caught on the crossbow rail.

The weight of your bolt includes the weight of the bolt, crossbow nock, insert, vanes, and field point of broadhead. Most manufacturers will tell you how many grains each shaft weighs, which is how many grains are in each inch of the shaft. You might have a bolt that is 15 grains per inch, and if the bolt is 20 inches, you just multiply the grains per inch by the length. 15 x 20 = 300, so now you know it weighs 300 grains.

Then, you need to add the weight of the nock, the insert, vanes, and tip to get the total weight. Keep in mind that heavier bolts will have more downrange energy and give you better penetration.

The Kinetic Energy of Bolts

If you plan to hunt small game, such as deer, you can use a minimum of 23 pounds of energy. If you hunt larger game, such as elk or black bears, you will need 43 pounds of kinetic energy.

Your bolt will lose three to four percent of its energy for every ten yards it has to travel, so you need to factor all of this in when you are choosing a bolt. You can actually use a kinetic energy calculator to find out how much energy your bow is delivering.

The Bolt Fletching

Most people prefer smaller two-inch vanes over larger ones that are four or five inches. The reason for this is that the smaller vanes lift some weight off the back end of the bolt, which adds to the front of center ratio. As a result, you can shoot more accurately. The best way to decide which vanes are best for you is to practice with different sizes of vanes.

The Crossbow Nocks

The nocks also come in different sizes, and you need to make sure that you use the correct size for your crossbow or your string could jump the nock and cause a dry fire. Some of the nocks are half-moon, flat back, capture, and hybrid moon nocks. You should look for the lighted crossbow nock that matches the type of nock you want to use. If you use a lighted nock, you can easily see where the bolt struck.

Broadheads

There are different types of broadheads available as well. Some companies make them with expandable blades, and they are designed just for crossbows. You can choose an expandable or fixed blade, but make sure that you sight your crossbow for the type you plan to shoot.

What Material Are Bolts Made of?

The shaft of your bolt should be made of carbon fiber, aluminum, or a combination of both. The least expensive option is aluminum. While it is durable, it bends easily, and this makes it pretty useless. Carbon fiber is the most expensive option, and it flies well and is very durable. It also penetrates your target better than aluminum.

Bolts that are a combination of the two have the best properties of each, and they can improve your durability, accuracy, and speed. You can find bolts made of fiberglass or wood, but they are not common. Neither works well or is safe to use on modern crossbows.

Do People Use Arrows on a Crossbow?

If you have a crossbow, you cannot shoot arrows that are designed for a standard bow. However, you can shoot arrows that are made for a crossbow. The problem is that crossbows have a shorter draw length and a higher draw strength, so an arrow for a regular bow would be too long. If the crossbow doesn’t break the arrow when you release it, it has too much weight and the center of mass is too far forward.

In addition, when the draw strength is higher, as it is for a crossbow, it needs a sturdier and heavier arrow or bolt; otherwise, the arrow will split from the force. You need to stick with arrows or bolts that fit the recommendations of the manufacturer for your crossbow.

Final Words

Bolts are the projectiles used by most crossbows, and they are different from arrows. Bolts are shorter than arrows, and they have different vanes. When crossbows were invented, they were very large and sat on wheels. They had to be drawn by oxen because they were too heavy to carry. They were easy to use, and the bolts were short and fat so that they could penetrate the enemy shields.

Today, bolts are projectiles between 16 and 22 inches, while arrows are usually longer. You can’t interchange which ones you use as you could damage your crossbow. You need to pay close attention to what the manufacturer for your crossbow recommends and choose bolts or arrows within that range.

Sources

• http://www.bestcrossbowsource.com/crossbow-bolts-arrows-guide
• https://www.grandviewoutdoors.com/gear/choosing-the-right-bolt-for-your-crossbow-set-up
• https://hunthacks.com/crossbow-bolts-guide-arrows-construction-nocks-tips

It’s time to start planning (or dreaming about) your next trip to Africa.

It’s very common for hunters to dream of incredible big game hunting destinations, which often means visions of Africa. The Dark Continent is known for having some outstanding big game hunting and best places to hunt in Africa truly provide opportunities for hunters that are unmatched anywhere else in the world.

These countries have a wide variety and abundant populations of game to go along with some very unique terrain.

Here’s a rundown of the top five countries worth exploring scheduling a trip to. Keep reading to learn our choices for the best countries for hunting in Africa.

Mozambique

Though a relative newcomer to the safari game due to a long, devastating civil war that finally ended in 1992, Mozambique’s wild game populations have made a fantastic recovery, which is why it should now be considered one of the best countries for hunting in Africa.

The government is investing a great deal of time and money to repair infrastructure damaged by the war and their efforts are really starting to bear fruit.

Located on the southeastern coast of the continent, Mozambique offers excellent hunting for many species of big game on the massive, unfenced government concessions that make up most of the hunting areas in the country.

Mozambique is quickly becoming a premier destination for Cape Buffalo hunting. With an estimated population of over 50,000, Mozambique has the second largest population of Cape Buffalo in Africa. As a result, serious hunters should consider booking a Mozambique hunting safari to take advantage of the opportunities for Cape Buffalo hunting in the country.

In addition to buffalo hunting, three other members of the Big Five may be hunted in Mozambique: elephants, leopards and lions. However, elephant trophies taken in Mozambique cannot be imported into the United States.

Hunters traveling to Mozambique can also take advantage of some crocodile and hippo hunting that is among the best offered anywhere in Africa.

Though buffalo are probably the most popular big game animal in Mozambique right now, there are some good opportunities for plains game hunting there as well. Species available include sable, nyala, eland, kudu, bushbuck, reedbuck, waterbuck, warthog, duiker (Blue, Red, and Bush), grysbok, oribi, steenbok, and suni (among many others).

Of the countries on this list, Mozambique is probably the least developed. As a result, some of the hunting concessions may only be reached by air charter. This adds complexity and expense to hunts in the country. Additionally, travel to Mozambique from the United States can be complicated, as there are no direct flights between the countries. Travelers typically must stop in Europe or South Africa first.

The way things stand now, I do not recommend Mozambique as a destination for a first trip to Africa. However, veteran hunters should be able to appreciate the outstanding hunting opportunities in Mozambique, especially for dangerous game.

Zimbabwe

Zimbabwe has long been a favored destination for hunters from all over the world and offers some of the best hunting for dangerous game in all of Africa (and at a reasonable price to boot).

In addition to buffalo, elephant, leopard, and lion, there is also fantastic hippopotamus and crocodile hunting in Zimbabwe. You can add to that the hunting opportunities for plains game such as eland, zebra, kudu, impala, tsessebe, roan, waterbuck, wildebeest, sable, bushbuck, warthog, and duiker. In fact, when hunting in a well-managed safari area, such as the renowned Bubye Valley Conservancy, hunters may encounter incredibly large and diverse populations of both dangerous and plains game in the same area, which is something few other places in Africa can match.

Unfortunately, the United States Fish and Wildlife Service recently banned the import of elephant trophies taken in Zimbabwe. It is unknown how long the ban will remain in place, but no elephants hunted after April 2014 may be legally imported into the United States and it does not appear that this policy will change anytime soon. While it’s still legal to hunt elephants in Zimbabwe, keep in mind that American hunters may not bring their elephant trophies home.

Though the infrastructure of Zimbabwe tends to be better developed than that of Mozambique, the transportation network still lags behind that of other countries. Some of the more remote concessions may only be reached by air. There are no direct flights to Zimbabwe from the United States and most flights stop in the United Kingdom or South Africa first. The other potential downside to hunting in Zimbabwe is the unstable political situation there.

Though there is good plains game hunting in Zimbabwe, the country is best known for dangerous game hunting. With that in mind, I recommend Zimbabwe as a destination for seasoned hunters primarily pursuing game like buffalo.

Tanzania

Ever since Theodore Roosevelt hunted there during his famous 1909 safari, hunters all over the world have dreamed of a safari in Tanzania. Hunters often conjure visions of vast herds of plains game moving across the plains of Tanzania, and for good reason. Tanzania has a wildlife population that no other country in Africa can match, both in variety and in sheer numbers, which is why it is considered one of the best countries for hunting in Africa.

Among many others (Tanzania has over 50 species of animals that may be hunted), hunters may pursue zebra, wildebeest, eland, impala, warthog, Greater and Lesser Kudu, hartebeest, topi, bushpig, Roosevelt Sable, Fringe-Eared Oryx, roan, waterbuck, and multiple species of gazelle (most commonly Grant’s and Thompson’s).

In addition to plains game hunting, Tanzania has incredible dangerous game hunting, especially for buffalo. Tanzania is home to nearly a quarter of a million buffalo, the largest population of any country in Africa. Understandably, Tanzania produces some of the biggest buffalo in Africa and the current No. 3 and No. 6 buffalo in the SCI record book were hunted in Tanzania.

The country also offers excellent hunting for elephant (though Tanzania is also subject to the same USFWS elephant import ban as Zimbabwe), lion, leopard, hippopotamus and crocodile.

The biggest downside to hunting in Tanzania is the price tag: on average, Tanzania is the most expensive country in Africa to hunt. However, you really do get what you pay for with the opportunity to hunt a stunning variety of animals with plenty of chances to shoot a nice trophy.

For those that can afford it, Tanzania is a great place for a trip to Africa for either plains or dangerous game. For those on more of a budget, it may be better to hunt somewhere else first.

Namibia

Located on the west coast of Africa between Angola and South Africa, Namibia was one of the best kept secrets in African hunting for a long time. However, hunters have recently discovered that Namibia has some of the best (and most reasonably priced) plains game hunts anywhere on the continent.

Since the Kalahari Desert occupies much of southern and eastern Namibia, the country is home to some of the largest populations of Kalahari Gemsbok and Springbok in the world. In addition to gemsbok and springbok, Namibia also offers good hunting for kudu, eland, wildebeest, zebra, blesbok, warthog, sable, roan, hartebeest, steenbok, duiker, and klipspringer. Namibia is also among the few countries where cheetah may be hunted, and the only place where hunters may pursue the Damarra Dik Dik and Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra.

Though leopard may be hunted in most of the country, lion, elephant, and buffalo are only present in the extreme northern portion of the country. Most of the hunting for these three species is conducted in the Caprivi Strip, a narrow corridor stretching out from northeastern Namibia. Since the Caprivi Strip is so small, only a handful of these species are hunted there each year.

On the upside, Namibia is one of only two countries (South Africa being the other) where elephant may be hunted and their trophy imported into the United States. Additionally, Namibia is the only country in the world where Black Rhinoceros may be hunted, though the tags are rare, expensive, and controversial (as Corey Knowlton found out). Namibia is therefore the only country where a hunter may conduct a “Classic Big Five” safari (Black Rhinoceros, elephant, buffalo, lion, and leopard).

Namibia also has a very well developed infrastructure. Unless hunting in the Caprivi Strip, virtually all of the hunting concessions in the country may be accessed via road after flying into the capital of Windhoek. As a result, travel around the country is relatively simple and it is not too difficult to hunt at multiple concessions in widely separated parts of the country on one trip.

Though Namibia is not terribly difficult to travel to, travelers from the United States must unfortunately stop in Europe or South Africa first. Fortunately, most of the hunting outfitters in Namibia are very reasonably priced and can provide hunting for a wide variety of species. The Namibian government also recognizes the tangible benefits of sustainable hunting on both an economic and a conservation level. For this reason, the Namibian government is firmly entrenched to fight off attacks by anti-hunters on the practice, thus likely securing the Namibia on the list of the best countries for hunting in Africa for many years to come.

With all of this in mind, I recommend Namibia as a great destination for hunters on their first trip to Africa, especially for hunting plains game.

South Africa

Long known as being one of the crown jewels of African hunting, South Africa boasts some of the most diverse populations of wildlife on the entire continent and is unquestionably one of the best countries for hunting in Africa.

From deserts to swamps to forests to mountains, South Africa has virtually every type of terrain in existence, along with the wildlife that inhabits those ecosystems. Greater Kudu, Cape Eland, nyala, waterbuck, sable, roan, Lichtenstein Hartebeest, Red Hartebeest, Black Wildebeest, Blue Wildebeest, blesbok, impala, springbok, bushbuck, warthog, bushpig, Mountain Reedbuck, klipspringer, Cape Grysbok, duiker, and oribi are among the many species of plains game that may be hunted in South Africa.

In addition to plains game hunting, hunters can pursue most species of dangerous game, such as hippopotamus, crocodile, lion, and leopard in South Africa. There is also incredible hunting for Cape Buffalo in the northeastern portion of the country. Not only does the area have a very large population of buffalo, but the trophy quality of the bulls there is outstanding. Currently, five of the top 10 buffalo in the SCI record book were hunted in South Africa.

Additionally, though not known for exceptional trophy quality, elephant may also be hunted in South Africa and imported into the United States. Finally, by substituting White Rhinoceros (which may be hunted and/or darted in South Africa) for Black Rhino, a hunter can also complete a Big Five hunting safari in South Africa.

South Africa has potentially the best developed infrastructure on the entire continent. After flying into Cape Town or Johannesburg, a hunter can access virtually the entire country via road, or by a regional airline to smaller airports in all corners of the country. South Africa is also one of the few countries on the continent accessible via direct flight from the United States.

Since South Africa is such a well known hunting destination and because the country is so easy to access, the average price of a hunt there is on the high side, though not nearly as high as Tanzania. Even with this in mind, a South African hunting safari is still quite a bargain and is an ideal way to experience Africa for the first time, especially for someone interested in hunting a number of very diverse animals.

What do you think of our choices for the best countries for hunting in Africa? Did we miss any?

Like what you see here? You can read more great hunting articles by John McAdams on his hunting blog. Follow him on Facebook The Big Game Hunting Blog, on Twitter @TheBigGameHunt, and on Instagram The_Big_Game_Hunter.

NEXT: THIS IS THE MOST INCREDIBLE CAPE BUFFALO HUNTING VIDEO YOU’LL EVER SEE

Can you name all the parts of a compound bow?

Check out our interactive diagram below to test your knowledge!

You might be new to the sport of bowhunting and be looking to learn all you can about it.

Or, maybe you are a seasoned bowhunter wanting to test your knowledge.

Either, way this one’s for you!

In the interactive diagram below, you can click/touch the NUMBER of the parts in the chart below to reveal the names of each item. You can read more about what each part is and does in the sections below the diagram. See how many you can get right!

Interactive Parts of A Compound Bow Diagram

Compound Bow Parts | Piece-By-Piece

In the above diagram of the Nexus2 by Prime Archery, you can view the parts of a compound bow. Find out more about what each part does by clicking the words below:

1. Cams
2. Limb Dampeners
3. Limbs
4. Limb Pivot
5. Limb Pocket
6. Limb Bolt
7. Riser
8. Sight Mounts
9. Cable Guard
10. Rest Mounts
11. Arrow Shelf
12. Stabilizer Mount
13. Axle
14. String Splitter
15. Cables
16. String
17. Serving
18. Nocking Point
19. Grip
20. String Stop
21. Cable Splitter
22. Axle-To-Axle Length
23. Brace Height

1. Cams

On a compound bow, the cams are the round, or oval-shaped discs that work much like a block-and-tackle pulley system. The cams are connected to the axles of the bow.

The cams act as the “multiplier” of the energy of the person pulling the bow string. This allows the bow to store more energy than the person pulling the bow string is actually exerting.

The bow has a “back wall” where the cams will not turn any more. This is where the archer is at “full draw.” At this point, there is a percentage of “letoff” that allows the archer or hunter to hold the force of the bow at a fraction of the actual pounds of pull being exerted.

For example, a bow that is set to a 70-lb draw weight with a 70% letoff will only take 21 lbs of force to hold at full draw. The energy is stored in the bow’s limbs until the archer releases, which unleashes the multiplied energery, propelling the arrow toward its target.

So, the cams of the bow are what change the bow in essence from a traditional bow to a compound bow.

2. Limb Dampeners

Limb dampeners reduce the noise and vibration throughout the limbs and riser of the bow.

When the hunter or archer releases the arrow the sudden and powerful uncoiling of the string on the cams produces vibration, which causes noise. The limb dampeners help to absorb that vibration, resulting in a quieting of the bow.

This absorption by the limb dampeners is especially helpful in reducing noise when hunting deer or other wild game and also reduces the amount of vibration that is transferred to the archer.

3. Limbs

A compound bow’s limbs are connected to the riser and store the energy that is collected when the string is pulled and the cams turn. When the string is released, the energy from the limbs is transferred to the arrow, which propels it through the air.

Most compound bow limbs are made up of fiberglass or composite material. Some bow limbs are solid, one-piece limbs. Others are “split,” having a gap between both sides of the upper and lower limbs.

4. Limb Pivot

Where the limbs pivot and flex on the riser.

5. Limb Pocket

The limbs of the bow rest in the limb pocket. These can be made of machined aluminum, ABS plastic or other composite materials. The limbs of the bow are secured in the limb pocket by the limb bolts.

6. Limb Bolt

The limb bolt is the crucial piece in connecting the limb pockets, which hold the limbs of the bow, to the riser.

Limb bolts are typically allen wrenc adjustable. Tightening the limb bolts increases the draw weight poundage of the bow. Loosening the limb bolts will decrease the draw weight poundage.

It’s very important that any adjustment to the limb bolts be made in the same increments. If the adjustments are uneven, the bow’s cams could get out of time, causing an improper tune.

If you need to adjust your bow’s draw weight, it’s a good idea to back the limb bolts all the way down and then start moving them both up the same amount.

7. Riser

The riser is the vertical portion and foundation of a compound bow. The limbs attach to it and it also serves as the fastening point for accessories such as the sight, arrow rest, grip, stabilizer, quiver, etc.

8. Sight Mounts

Sight mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s sight. The archer will look through the peep on the bow string and at the pin(s) of the sight to aim at the target or game animal.

9. Cable Guard

The Cable guard runs perpendicular to the bow’s riser. It keeps the bow’s cable out of the way of the arrow’s line of fire. It typically has rollers and/or slides attached to it to aid in keeping the cable on track.

10. Rest Mounts

Rest mounts are holes in the riser that serve as the attaching point for the bow’s rest. The rest is what holds the arrow in place while the archer is drawing and releasing the arrow.

There are many different types of rests. Some use prongs that the arrow will rest on, while others hold the arrow up and then fall out of the way when the arrow is released. Others, called containment rests, completely surround the arrow until it is fired and typically have no moving parts.

11. Arrow Shelf

The arrow shelf is the area of the riser where the arrow sits on the rest. While the rest typically holds the arrow off the shelf on compound bows, traditional bows (non-compound) usually have the arrow resting directly on the arrow shelf.

12. Stabilizer Mount

The stabilizer mount is a universal size threaded hole in the riser that is used to attach a stabilizer to.

The stabilizer helps balance and thus “stabilize” the bow when drawing and shooting, and also typically has vibration dampening properties. In essence, it helps the bow resist movement during the draw cycle and when shooting.

The back of the stabilizer also typically serves as the fastening point for the wrist sling.

13. Axle

The Axle is what holds the cams, in the same way a car axle holds its wheels. The cams have a hole in the center. The axle goes through the center of the axle and attach to the limbs.

14. String Splitter

Bows with parallel limbs (which eliminate cam lean) will have a string splitter. On these types of bows, the main part of the string that the archer attaches the release to “splits” just before the cams.

The splitter is what essential turns the single string into two strings, each going around its respective cam.

15. Cables

The cable(s) runs between the bow’s cams. They assist in moving the cams of the bow when the string is pulled back by the archer. It’s important to replace your cable(s) as well as your string as recommended per the bow manufacturer’s instructions or on the advice of your local bow shop.

16. String

The string serves several functions. It is where the archer will connect their release. It is what the archer pulls (or draws) back and releases to launch the arrow.

Many archers will utilize a “D loop,” which attaches to the bow string and serves as a way to quickly attach the release to the string and also improves accuracy.

You should always inspect your string before and after shooting and hunting. A damaged string could end up being a broken string, which could result in serious injury to the shooter or others.

Any cuts or fraying should be addressed immediately and it is recommended that you take to your local bow shop for an assessment.

17. Serving

The “center serving” is coiled thread wrapped around the center portion of your string where you would nock an arrow and attach a D-loop. The center serving protect the center section of the string from wear and tear that results from nocking arrows as well as drawing and shooting the bow.

There is also serving material on areas of your bow string that go around the cams or through rollers that are attached to the cable guards. This helps the bow string stay together, especially in places that are likely to received the most friction.

18. Nocking Point

The nocking point is where the arrow, by way of the arrow nock, attaches to the bow string. The D-loop attaches above and below the nocking point.

19. Grip

The grip is the part of the bow that you hold while shooting. Grips are made of various materials such as wood, rubber, plastic, metal, etc.

The grip can also be a source of inaccuracy. For example, if you hold the grip too tightly, or twist the grip while shooting, you can cause your arrow to go off-course from where you were aiming.

20. String Stop

String vibration is a large cause for noise when a bow fires. A string stop helps dampen that vibration and thus reduces unwanted noise. The string stop is a rubber part that is often mounted on a post that is directly opposite of the front stabilizer.

The string stop not only helps dampen vibration, but also aids in better accuracy for the shooter, often resulting in tighter arrow groups at the target.

21. Cable Splitter

On some bows, the cable splitter is a ring that connects the cable to two separate cables, thus dampening vibration and noise of the cable during shooting.

22. Axle-To-Axle Length

“Axle-to-axle” is not a part of a compound bow, but rather a reference to measurement. Axle-to-axle is the measurement from the center of one cam to the other. The axles go through the center of the cams.

This axle-to-axle measurement is often used to determine how forgiving the bow will be in regards to arrow flight accuracy when taking farther shots.

A bow with a longer axle-to-axle height may be more forgiving that a shorter one, but may also be difficult to maneuver in tight-quarter hunting scenarios.

23. Brace Height

The “brace height” is not a part of the bow, but rather a measurement, in inches, of the distance between the “throat” of the grip to the center of the bow’s string.

A shorter brace height means a longer “power stroke,” which is the distance from the grip to the center of the string when the archer is at full draw. A longer power stroke typically means a faster bow, as it increases the amount of time that the arrow is attached to the string.

Parts Of A Compound Bow Conclusion

Whether you are just a beginner bowhunter or looking to brush up on your bow component knowledge, we hope this has been a helpful tool for you!

If you don’t have your head buried in the sand, you understand why the new Hornady 7mm PRC cartridge has created such a stir. You also understand that it could be months before rifles chambered in 7mm PRC are readily available on dealer’s shelves.

It’s debatable whether a new cartridge has ever before driven as much internet buzz as the 7mm PRC. That’s in large part due to the inherent coolness of the cartridge, but it is also thanks to the fact that few shooters want to wait to own one. “How to build a 7mm PRC” is a popular search. The easiest and most practical way, of course, is to convert a rifle already in your gun safe. Thankfully, the process isn’t particularly hard.

Step 1: Find An Appropriate Bolt-Action

First, your action must be compatible with the 7mm PRC. That means your donor rifle must have a magnum-diameter bolt face compatible with the cartridge’s 0.532-inch case head. It also must have feed rails and a magazine box compatible with the PRC cartridge.

Thankfully, just about every magnum action for popular rounds such as the 7mm Rem Mag and .300 Win. Mag. are ideal. Unlike the longer .300 PRC, which demands a true long magnum action that will house 3.700-inch-long cartridges, the 7mm version fits in standard-length actions that house 3.400-inch cartridges. This opens a plethora of great options for conversion.

Without debate, the most sensible action for conversion to 7mm PRC is a Remington 700 or 700 clone. This isn’t because of inherent superiority; it’s simply because there are more aftermarket parts for the 700 than for any other. This includes stocks, triggers, magazines, bottom metal and so forth. Plus, the M700 is naturally easy to make accurate, which makes it and the 7mm PRC a match made in heaven. However, any good magnum action will do just fine. As you’ll see, I didn’t use an M700 action, for reasons I’ll discuss later.

Step 2: Get A Premium Barrel

Unfortunately, you can’t just ream out a 7mm Rem Mag chamber to make it a 7mm PRC. Whatever cartridge your donor rifle is chambered for, you’ll need a new barrel. You can opt for an entry-level replacement barrel, which will cost you around $200. Don’t do it. Spend the dollars for a premium, match-grade barrel. The 7mm PRC cartridge deserves it, and in the long run, you’ll never regret the extra money.

You can get a good all-steel Shaw Barrels, Bartlein, Proof Research or Krieger barrel for less than $400. If you want the ultimate hunting-rifle barrel and can stretch the wallet, splurge for a fine carbon-fiber-wrapped barrel. The extra diameter adds accuracy-enhancing stiffness without weight, and the vibration-dampening effect of the carbon fiber makes such barrels particularly forgiving and accurate.

Step 3: The Right Stock

Without a stock that’s rigid and ergonomic, your rifle won’t shoot consistently, and you the shooter won’t be able to get the best accuracy your rifle possesses. If your donor rifle doesn’t have a good stock, buy an aftermarket one.

Best of the lot are the carbon-fiber and carbon-fiber blend stocks that are hand laid, not injection molded. They’re expensive, but worth every penny. Also good are laminated wood stocks. They’re rigid and impervious to heat and moisture extremes like carbon fiber. However, they’re quite heavy. On the plus side, they’re also quite affordable. If you use a natural wooden stock—like the walnut I used on the rifle built for this article project—use a good dense stick of walnut. Avoid birch or beech or other cheap woods. Be sure your gunsmith glass beds it fully and seals the barrel channel and magazine mortice against moisture so the stock will remain stable in various climates.

For the most part, avoid injection-molded plastic stocks. They’re impervious to moisture, yes, but they’re also flimsy and flexible and susceptible to extremes in heat and cold. I’ve seen injection-molded stocks become nearly malleable in 100+ temps and brittle enough to shatter in sub-zero temps.

Step 4: Hire a proper gunsmith

I can’t stress how important this is. No matter how premium the quality if your parts is, the craftsmanship of your chosen gunsmith will make or break your project. Don’t get a hobby ’smith who works out of his garage to do your work.

My Personal 7mm PRC Build

Like Col. Townsend Whelen, who famously said, “Only accurate rifles are interesting,” I’m a fan of tack-drivers. I’m also a fan of extreme ballistic performance, which the 7mm PRC embodies. When assigned this article project, part of the protocol was to keep it simple and use whatever approach was most practical, just as most shooters interested in a similar project would. If I’d had a magnum Remington Model 700 action on hand that I wasn’t using, I’d have picked it. But I didn’t, and I was glad I didn’t.

What I did have was a stainless Winchester Model 70 action, with a poor-shooting .338 Win Mag barrel. Now, I’m a big fan of Mauser-based controlled-feed actions, and I gleefully dug up the dusty barreled action for my project. Few 7mm PRC rifles being built have controlled-feed actions. I’d be using mine in elk and bear country, and I figured it would not only be unique, it would be just right. I also had a nice walnut stock I’d taken off of a different M70 I had customized and re-stocked. Ideally, I’ll someday have a nice carbon fiber stock fit to the customized rifle, but for the time being time was short and the Walnut stock would serve beautifully—and again, be distinctive.

Because I’m a sucker for premium accuracy and forgiving consistency, I ordered a carbon-fiber-wrapped 22-inch Proof Research barrel with a 1:8 twist, so it will handle any and all high-BC long-range bullets. It’s the Sendero profile, so it’s as rigid as they come and will comfortably carry my titanium Banish 30 suppressor by Silencer Central. Plus, I was guessing the distinctive carbon fiber pattern in the Proof barrel would look smashing with the rich French Red finish on my walnut stock.

Hill Country Rifles in Texas consented to expedite the build to help me make my deadline. HCR has a team of excellent gunsmiths, and does superlative work. Off went all my parts to Matt Bettersworth, my friend at HCR. Aside from an invisible issue with the M70s cocking piece, which HCR fixed, the rifle came together beautifully. I received an email from Matt stating, “…looks pretty darn good. Factory ELD-X shot right at ½ inch.”

As you can see from the photographs, Matt was right. The rifle looks great. It’s distinctive, classy, capable, and it shoots as well as it looks. I accuracy-tested two of Hornady’s 7mm PRC factory loads through it, firing three consecutive three-shot groups at 100 yards and was impressed. Factory-loaded 175-grain ELD-X bullets averaged .56-inch groups—in a blowing snowstorm. Muzzle velocity in the 22-inch barrel was 2,926 fps with a standard deviation of 14 fps.

Hornady’s 180-grain ELD Match load is usually a tad more accurate, but in this rifle, it averaged 0.84-inch groups. Still good, but my rifle shoots the 175-grain ELD-X hunting load better. I’m glad, because this is a hunting rifle. It’s worth noting that the match ammo did turn in super good consistency, averaging 2,914 fps with just 9 fps of standard deviation. Factory ammo that scores in the single digits is impressive.

All you need to get your own custom 7mm PRC rifle built is a donor rifle with an appropriate action, match-grade 7mm barrel with 1:8-inch rifling twist, quality, stable stock and a trustworthy gunsmith with a 7mm PRC reamer. New factory-production rifles are sure to start trickling into the market place throughout 2024. However, it could be a long time before you find one that’s exactly what you want. Why wait? Build one.

Ground squirrels can damage many food-bearing and ornamental plants. They will enter gardens and devour vegetables in the seedling stage, gnaw on plastic sprinkler heads and irrigation lines, eat the eggs of ground-nesting birds and can be quite destructive. This humane DIY squirrel trap can help you eliminate those pesky little varmints!

Step 1: Gather the required materials and tools.

– Three pieces of PVC plastic drain pipe, 4 inch diameter, 2 feet long each (total of 6 feet)- One PVC 45 degree elbow, 4 inch diameter- One PVC clean out plug, 4 inch diameter- One PVC adapter fitting, 4 inch diameter (threaded on one end for the clean out plug above)- One PVC coupling fitting, 4 inch diameter- One PVC pipe cap, 4 inch diameter- Two machine screws, zinc or stainless steel, 1/4 inch diameter, 1 inch long- Four nuts to match the screws above- Two washers to match the screws above- Two wing nuts to match the screws above- One adjustable 2 foot bungee cord- One can of spray cooking oil- One small jar of peanut butter

Tools:- Power drill with 1/4 inch bit

Step 2: Drill holes in pipe.

Using the power drill, drill multiple 1/4 inch diameter holes in one of the 2 foot long pieces of PVC pipe. Do not drill holes in the last 6 inches of each end of the pipe. This pipe will be the BASE of the trap.

Select a different 2 foot long piece of PVC pipe. Drill two 1/4 inch diameter holes approximately 2 inches from one end of the pipe.

The holes should be directly across from each other on opposite sides of the pipe. This pipe will be the TOP of the trap and the end with the two holes will point up, when assembling the final trap.

Step 3: Assemble the trap base

Attach the PVC adapter fitting to one end of the BASE pipe and carefully screw the clean out plug into the threaded section of the adapter fitting.

Attach the PVC 45 degree elbow to the other end of the BASE pipe. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach any of the PVC pipes or fittings.)

Step 4: Assemble the top of the squirrel trap

On the end of the TOP pipe with the two holes, reach inside the pipe and push one machine screw through each of the holes.

The head of each screw should be inside the pipe with the threaded part outside of the pipe. On the outside of the pipe, place a washer on each of the screws, screw two nuts on each screw, and screw one wing nut on each screw.

Attach the PVC coupling fitting to the end of the TOP pipe without the holes. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach the fitting.)

Step 5: Assemble and bait the trap

The remaining pipe is the MIDDLE of the trap. Insert one end of the MIDDLE pipe into the open end of the PVC coupling fitting on the TOP pipe.

Insert the other end of the MIDDLE pipe into the open end of the PVC 45 degree elbow on the BASE pipe. (Do not use PVC adhesive or glue to attach the fitting.)

The fully assembled trap will look like a big hockey stick.

Spray a light coating of cooking oil on the inside of the TOP and MIDDLE pipes. This will keep the squirrels from escaping when trapped.

Using your fingers or a long spoon, smear peanut butter on the inside of the TOP pipe about 8-10 inches from the open end of the pipe. The peanut butter is the bait. You can also place peanuts or something similar in the BASE pipe, if you wish.

Step 6: Select a location and place the trap.

Look for a sturdy tree in an area with squirrels. Be sure you can easily see and get to the base of the tree trunk. Place the trap next to the tree with the BASE on the ground and the TOP touching the tree trunk.

Secure the TOP to the tree trunk with the bungee cord.

You can also place bricks or rocks around the BASE to help keep it in from moving.

Step 7: Catch some squirrels.

Wait for a squirrel to sniff out the bait and slide down into the BASE.

Once you have one trapped, it’s up to you as to what to do with the squirrel.

If you choose to relocate the squirrel, place the pipe cap on the open end of the trap before moving the squirrel to its new home.

NOTE: You may wish to vary the length or diameter of the plastic pipe depending on the size of your squirrels or available materials. I chose to use schedule 40, foam core DWV (drain, waste, and vent) pipe because it will stand up to periodic bumps and drops without much problem. Materials for the 4 inch diameter trap cost about $50.

About the author:

James Hammond is a disabled veteran and has done landscaping and home renovation projects for over 25 years.

Considerations for pigeon loft design, types of pigeons, and reasons why keeping birds is beneficial when training a bird dog

Congratulations! You just brought home a new bird dog puppy and among the many preparations you made in anticipation of this new family member was building a pigeon loft, stocking it with birds, and training the birds to rehome to their loft. Wait, you didn’t get around to that yet and you are just now searching the internet for training pigeons? You’ve come to the right place: here is a crash course in pigeon-keeping. It’s not nearly as tough as you might think.

During your research into training a bird dog, you have undoubtedly heard this simple cliché ad nauseum, “It takes birds to make a bird dog.” Nothing could be more true. Ideally, we would all train on wild birds and our dogs would be perfect, but that isn’t the case for the vast majority of us. Thankfully we have pigeons-the most reliable training partner a dog owner could ask for-and with the help from a well-timed remote bird launcher, we can make our pigeons flush wild just like any late season ruffed grouse. If you keep homing pigeons, they become a renewable and recyclable training resource; you can even sell your extra young birds to recoup some of the initial start-up and feed expenses.

“Hold on,” I can hear you saying, “I just committed my life to keeping a crazy bird dog puppy, and now this guy wants me to become a pigeon farmer. Are you out of your mind?” Maybe, but hear me out.

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Reasons to keep pigeons for bird dog training

Many people feel that keeping a team of homing pigeons is a bit too much. They believe that the idea of getting their birds from poultry auctions, Craigslist, or trapping them is far less intimidating. All three are viable solutions to the problem of getting birds for training, but none of these solutions are on your terms. You are at the mercy of other people; poultry auctions are hit-or-miss when it comes to pigeon availability and another desperate bird dog owner may come along and outbid you. I was once that desperate bird dog owner who paid $25 for the only pigeon at the auction so that I wouldn’t go home empty-handed. Since the pigeon wasn’t homed to my loft, I watched my $25 “investment” fly off after a training session. Getting birds this way is not only unreliable, it can also be very expensive.

Catching feral birds is a nice D.I.Y. aspiration, but in reality, it is time consuming and perhaps a dangerous proposition if you choose to capture them by climbing ladders with a net in the dark. If you use traps, you will find yourself devoting a lot of time learning how to build traps and how to trap birds. You can burn a lot of time and gas checking your traps. I don’t have that kind of time to mess around and I would rather burn gasoline while traveling to my training destinations. You should also be wary of various bird diseases that can be transmitted to humans, as feral pigeons are little more than rats with wings and the areas they inhabit in barns and under bridges are beyond filthy from the droppings of generations of disease-ridden feral birds.

You can buy feral birds that someone else trapped, but then you get into the reliability factor. Your supplier could be out of birds when you need them, or perhaps they command top dollar in your area. Five dollars is the average per bird in my area, but I have seen them go for much, much more. Remember, too, that you aren’t reusing these birds again and again like you would with your own personal team of homing pigeons; you are literally throwing that $5+ bird away… and yet its diseases stay behind. You might consider building a holding cage to stock up on trapped birds and save them for your training sessions, but by then, my friend, you should definitely just build a loft and keep homers yourself.

What is a pigeon loft?

A pigeon loft is essentially a pigeon-friendly chicken coop. It is usually raised a few feet off the ground and offers shelter where the birds feel safe. Theoretically a loft could simply be built from a cardboard refrigerator box as long as it is weather- and predator-proofed. I’ve seen lofts in all shapes and sizes, from a five-gallon bucket mounted on the side of a garage housing a breeding pair of birds to an elaborate, multi-roomed mobile home converted into a pigeon racer’s dream breeding facility.

Pigeons aren’t hard to keep and they aren’t particular. But what if you don’t have a yard to keep your pigeon loft? Years ago I was an apartment dweller with a bird dog. I kept three homers in a rabbit cage on my balcony.

Get creative.

Over the years, I have made pigeon lofts out of greenhouses, modified shipping containers from moving companies, transformed old school bus stops from neighbors whose children have grown, and built one with scrap wood. A pigeon loft only needs a few things to make it a home for the birds. Pigeons will live in anything. The standardized loft design is mainly for your convenience in working with them.

Pigeon loft building considerations

Ventilation

The most important thing to keep the birds healthy is to achieve maximum ventilation with no draft. Pigeons create a lot of dander which is unhealthy for you and them. Poorly-ventilated lofts promote coccidiosis or pigeon lung disease, so there needs to be some air flow. However, the birds also need a way to get out of drafts which can kill them under the wrong circumstances. Some of the healthiest lofts I have ever seen are just three solid walls with the floor, roof, and one open face covered by hardware cloth. The birds had cubbies in which to shelter from any winds through the front of the building. A loft like this will also withstand some moderate overcrowding. Overcrowding happens. Maybe you are saving birds to sell to some chump who just got a bird dog puppy or maybe you are anticipating training with friends. The better the birds can breathe, the healthier they will be in crowded conditions.

Flooring

The floor must be dry. Whether you build a simple wire floor which allows droppings and spilled food to fall through or a wooden floor that you must scrape every day, it needs to be dry. Dirt floors work, but it is difficult to manage diseases when they come to visit your birds. My favorite floor is a raised plywood floor covered with firewood pellets. The absorbent nature of the firewood pellets keeps everything dry until I can get around to cleaning it.

Entrance and security

The birds need a way to get in and out. This is usually a pigeon-sized entrance with a landing board. It is essential that the opening is able to be securely closed so that the birds stay in and the predators stay out. Flapping pigeon wings are a dinner bell to avian predators and they will soon have your loft marked on their daily patrol.

You should also install a set of pigeon trap bobs over the entrance to allow the birds to enter but not leave. Pigeon trap bobs are readily available online in a variety of sizes. Once your birds have entered the loft through the bobs for the day, you will want a door you can close behind them to keep predators from entering or ambitious pigeons from exiting through the bobs.

Maintenance access

You must be able to access your birds for feeding, cleaning, and collection for training, etc. This is usually a standard door on the back or side of the loft but again, be creative with lifting hatches and sliding panels to save space and material!

Consider your strategy for preventing birds from escaping while you are netting some to take out for training. In a very large loft, perhaps the door can close behind you while you work in the loft. For smaller lofts, plan to be able to block the opening with your body while you are reaching in for access.

Perches and roosts

Pigeons need multiple perches. They will fight for their own territory within the loft, so it is important that each bird gets its own perch. This is the individually-claimed space that they are homing to when they fly great distances back to your loft.

A best practice is to build 1.5 perches per expected bird so that when temporary overcrowding inevitably occurs, the birds will each have their own spot to roost.

Food and water

Clean food and water are essential for healthy birds. A pigeon will perch on anything that it can perch on; when they perch, they poop. Buy pigeon-specific feeders and waterers which can readily be found online or build your own pigeon-proof system. This may take a few design iterations as their ability to poop in their own water will continually amaze you.

Pigeons need a special protein diet different from chickens, so specialized pigeon feed is a must for long-term health. Like most birds, pigeons need grit to aid in proper digestion.

Loft placement location

The loft should be placed away from other buildings and trees. An ideal loft location would be on a rooftop, making the loft itself the highest point around. Many birds are successfully kept on rooftops in cities. If there is something taller than the loft nearby, the birds will naturally want to perch on it instead of entering the loft. This puts your pigeons at risk of being picked off by predators. If it isn’t possible to place your loft away from buildings or trees don’t let that stop you, just be sure to never let the birds out on a full stomach or else returning home will be at the bottom of their priority list for the day.

The above considerations will get your loft started for relatively little time or financial investment. Once you’ve established a loft there are long-term bird-keeping nuances to learn, but that is for another article.

Read: Living with Pen-Raised Quail for Dog Training

Choosing pigeons for dog training

Not all pigeons are created equal and not all are suitable for dog training. You need homing or racing pigeons. These birds are athletes in their own right and have been selectively bred over hundreds of years for speed, endurance, and an incredibly strong desire to make it back to their home perch.

My pigeon mentor had one bird fly over 600 miles in a single day to win a race where it competed against thousands of other birds. Pigeon racing is a huge rabbit hole that I invite you to go down once you start keeping birds; it is a lot of fun with a rich tradition and history.

Because this homing instinct is so strong, avoid buying mature birds over four months old unless you are willing to have a breeding loft where you can keep these birds contained for the rest of their lives and only use their offspring to keep as training birds. It is possible, but time consuming, to “rehome” mature pigeons to your loft. Once the birds have had a few hatches of chicks, they have about a fifty/fifty chance at returning to your home loft if you let them out.

Where do you get racing pigeons? Find a local racing pigeon club; these are some of the friendliest and most helpful groups around and if you take an interest in their sport, they will open the door to a whole network of pigeon people in your area with birds and the right knowledge to help you keep them healthy. If there are no clubs within reasonable driving distance, then Craigslist, auctions, and feed stores are all good places to look for homing pigeon breeders.

Focus your pigeon search on one-month-old pigeons called “squeakers” (they are called this because they squeak instead of grunt or coo like older birds). Squeakers are visually identifiable by yellow strands of fuzz poking through their feathers and pink flesh around their beak. The fuzz goes away quickly and the flesh around the beak (called a wattle) will turn white as they mature. Generally, birds under three or four months of age will readily rehome to a new loft within a few weeks of being locked down. The lockdown helps the birds familiarize themselves with the loft surroundings.

Spring and summer are usually the best time to find squeakers as pigeon fanciers and racers will often have a surplus of birds. Locating squeakers during the winter and fall is a daunting task because the birds are usually separated at this time or not breeding.

Note: I do not recommend trying to rehome feral pigeons. As I mentioned above, there is limited chance that the bird will “rehome” after hatching babies, but the possibility of disease infecting the loft isn’t worth the risk.

A word on fancy and show pigeons: these birds are bred for their looks and not their flying abilities. I would avoid them at all costs. Even if you are just planning on shooting them, they will often only flutter a few yards away, allowing the dog an opportunity to catch them. I have even seen them land on the dog handler’s head before. It is best to stick with homing or racing birds, which are always strong flyers.

How many birds should I keep for training?

If you are training one dog, three to five pairs of homing pigeons will be more than adequate. This allows a buffer in case a bird is lost to a hawk or to disease. When the training season is over, you can add nest boxes to the loft and raise a new generation of training birds.

The number of birds you keep is highly dependent on the size of your loft. Many people suggest two to three cubic feet per bird. This is not an exact science, but I feel it is a good rule of thumb if you have adequate ventilation and an appropriate number of perches. Overcrowding leads to stress and stress leads to disease that can wipe out an entire flock. It’s always safest to go with fewer birds until you know what you are doing.

So there you have it: the basics to get your foot in the door and wrap your mind around keeping pigeons. It isn’t hard and once you have a team of birds trained (which I will get into in a later post) you can pay yourself $5 every time you release one to fly home. There is definitely a lot more to keeping a healthy team of training homers, but just getting a loft together is the hardest part. If you have been with me this far, you have found it really isn’t that hard at all.

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Throughout the history of hunting, we have never had a deer send a lasting shockwave through the entire community like the Rompola buck. Splitting the industry in half and creating more questions than answers. This infamous buck sits center stage when it comes to the most controversial whitetails ever to surface.

Whether you think it is fake or it is real, there are several aspects when it comes to the deer and Mitch Rompola himself that are quite contradictory. We narrowed it down to 3 facts about the Rompola Buck saga that stand out.

Listen to the full discussion:

#1 – Mitch’s Numerous State Records

Mitch was synonymous with one of the hunters that looked up to the challenge of hunting Northern Michigan. His friends had called him Swampaster and he had a reputation for shooting big whitetails on a consistent basis.

It’s even reported, he held the Missouri state archery record, and then he topped his own record again after a few years. Although after doing some digging, I cannot locate any literature to confirm these records.

The former Commemorative Bucks of Michigan state record was also shot by Mitch Rompola in Grand Traverse County in 1985. That buck scored 181 7/8 B&C, but On November 2, 2012, Robert Sopsic topped that record by 2/8 of an inch for the new state record archery buck. It was clear Mitch had a reputation for being a successful big-buck hunter.

What are the odds of a singular hunter having not one, not two, but three state records and a world record to his name. a quick glance at any whitetail record buck shows a list of names, but very few names on those lists have multiple records. In a state like Missouri, it could be possible but highly unlikely, but to do it in a high-pressure, low-age class state like Michigan? it seems a little fishy to me.

#2 – Mitch’s Desire To Be A Left Alone

Less than a week after the reported kill, Mitch got an unlisted phone number and dropped out of sight. Two of his most vocal critics in Michigan each had put up $10,000, which they said Mitch could collect if he’d just have the rack X-rayed and enter it into B&C. But not even that could spur the man into action.

What’s contradicting about this is the fact that before Mitch killed the infamous buck, he was building a reputation in the industry with magazine articles and making partnerships with manufacturers in the outdoor industry. He was mentioned in several books listing the top whitetail hunters in the nation and had a deal with a deer scent company as well.

You would figure after shooting a buck like that (that tops the previous world record by 3″), Mitch would have laid claim to the title of world record. Instead, mitch went from climbing the ladder for whitetail greatness with sponsors, magazines, and books to completely disappearing off of the face of the earth after shooting the “New World Record” and even signing a deal with Milo Hansens business associate to never enter the buck into B&C and stop calling it the world record.

#3 – The Rack Supposedly Was Lost To A House Fire

***Disclaimer***

***The below information was obtained using free public use programs, websites, and apps.***

Soon after the news broke of the buck, Mitch shut out the outside world and dropped off of the face of the earth. It is rumored that during this time period, the rack was destroyed in a house fire.

With the numerous public resources on the internet now, I was able to go into google earth and look back at historical imagery at Mitch’s actual house. The furthest back satellite image on google earth was from 1985. It is a little blurry, but you can make out the outline of the house and the image gets clearer as the years progress.

As you thumb through the different years, you will notice that the house stays exactly the same, even to this day. If a house fire did happen, it did not get bad enough to disfigure the exterior of the house, meaning it wasn’t an overly big fire if it did happen at all.

The melting point of bone is roughly around 3,000 degrees farenheight, so for the rack to be destroyed in a house fire, the fire itself would have had to engulf the entire house to reach those temperatures.

Conclusion:

Did the fire actually happen or was it a cover for Mitch hiding the rack? What made Mitch go from a hunting industry personality to a hermit? Did the multiple state records actually happen? The world may never know.

As is with every article ever written on Mitch Rompola and the Rompola Buck, there are more unanswered questions than answers. With the recent sale of the Milo Hansen buck and the even more recent discovery of the Rompola Buck’s score sheet, I think that the answers to some of these questions could possibly be just on the horizon.

Written by: Lucas Jones