This ground beef jerky is a mouthwatering option for those looking for traditional beef jerky flavor with a softer, easier-to-chew texture.

This is a great snack option for sensitive chewers such as kids or older folks.

This tender beef jerky recipe has the classic components of delicious beef jerky – a robust medley of savory spices, a touch of sweetness, and a hint of heat for perfect balance.

Chopped and formed jerky has a bad reputation as low-quality, commercial jerky producers see a ground product as an opportunity to use cheap meat and artificial ingredients. By making ground beef jerky at home, you have complete control over the type of meat and ingredients.

For example, if you have a soy aversion or eat gluten free, you can use coconut aminos instead of soy sauce. Like things spicy? Feel free to add cayenne pepper for some kick.

The protein source for this recipe uses beef, but you can easily adapt the recipe for other protein sources such as ground venison, ground pork, ground elk, ground turkey, and ground chicken. You can even grind your own meat for the recipe.

The key, regardless of the protein source, is to use lean meat. There are two important reasons to use lean meat. First, if the meat is too fatty, the finished ground jerky will fail to bind and crumble after cooking. Secondly, excess fat can turn rancid and develop “off” smells and colors. This is why we always recommend trimming as much exterior fat from whole-muscle jerky. Learn more in our guide to slicing meat for jerky.

Pro-Tip: When working with beef, opt for a minimum ratio of 90% lean to 10% fat (or higher). You can easily find these numbers of the ground beef packaging in supermarkets and stores.

The forming step is the most important step when making ground jerky. You have two primary options for making ground beef jerky—formed by hand and using a jerky gun. This recipe will provide instructions for both.

Looking to spice up your ground beef jerky game? Check out our beef jerky seasoning blends (Coming Soon! Sign-Up For Early Access). We conducted hundreds of batches to find the perfect all-in-one jerky seasonings. Our seasonings are perfect for ground beef jerky.

Let’s dive into the best ground beef jerky recipe.

Follow these step-by-step instructions to make the most delicious ground beef jerky.

1. Mix the ingredients with the meat.

The beauty of making ground beef jerky is you do not have to marinate the meat. This will save you between 16 and 24 hours, the typical marination type of whole-muscle beef jerky. Learn more about how long to marinate beef jerky (for traditional, whole beef jerky).

When working with ground beef jerky, fully mixing the ingredients with the meat will infuse the full flavor.

Start by mixing the dry seasonings and liquid ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Then add the meat to the mixture. Make sure to fully integrate the mixture.

Pro-Tip: Mixing the non-meat ingredients first will better distribute the flavor throughout the beef. Take your time with the mixing step to ensure that the flavor is evenly distributed throughout the meat.

2. Form the ground meat into strips.

This is where the magic happens. You have two options to form the ground meat into strips: using a jerky gun or forming the strips by hand.

Jerky Gun or Jerky Cannon

A jerky gun is a terrific tool to make ground beef jerky.

Also known as a jerky cannon, this jerky-making appliance compresses and extrudes ground meat into even strips. Think of a caulking gun but for jerky.

There are two advantages to using a jerky gun. First, you can achieve long, even strips. Each strip will have the same thickness which makes the cooking step a breeze. Secondly, most jerky guns come with a variety of nozzles so you can create a range of shapes including beef sticks.

Fill the chamber of the jerky gun with the ground meat, select your desired nozzle, and press the trigger to create long, even strips on your dehydrator racks. It’s as simple as that.

Have a pair of scissors or knife handy to trim the meat when you’ve completed a strip. You can also use your fingers to pinch the meat.

Pro-Tip: Make sure to pack the meat tightly so there are no air pockets. These air pockets will prevent the meat from extruding as a combined unit in long strips. Don’t worry, the jerky guns are very forgiving.

Want to buy your own jerky gun? Learn more about the best jerky guns on the market.

Forming Ground Jerky By Hand

If you don’t have a jerky gun or prefer to make ground beef jerky by hand. Here’s a quick and easy trick that will guarantee even strips of the same thickness.

Place the meat onto a sheet pan lined with parchment paper. Place another piece of parchment paper on top of the meat. Use a combination of your hands, a rolling pin, and a large spoon to flatten the meat to an even thickness of ¼ thick.

Once the meat is spread evenly on the sheet pan, cut long strips with a knife or pizza cutter. Don’t worry if the scores do not cut all the way through the meat. As the jerky dries, it will separate and break easily.

Carefully remove the top piece of parchment paper and place your drying rack on top of the meat. With your hand on the drying rack, invert the sheet pan. Remove the sheet pan and the other piece of parchment paper. Simply place the drying rack with the meat on top back into the sheet pan and you’re ready to start cooking.

3. Cook the ground beef jerky.

You can cook your ground beef jerky in an oven, dehydrator, or even a smoker. The cook time will vary from device to device and even batch to batch. We recommend using a dehydrator for making any type of beef jerky at home as it delivers the most consistent results. We use the 9-Tray Excalibur Dehydrator Machine in our Test Kitchen.

Learn more about the best dehydrators for beef jerky.

Here are rough cooking guidelines for ground beef jerky.

Device

Temperature

Time

Oven

165°F -175°F

2.5 – 4.5 Hours

Dehydrator

165°F

3 – 4.5 hours

Smoker

160°F – 170°F

2.5 – 3 hours

To make sure your ground beef jerky is fully cooked, make sure to use the following signs:

• The internal temperature of the meat should be at 165°F. If you maintain the oven temperature for the minimum times recommended above and are working with strips around ¼”, the meat will be fully cooked. We’re checking for dryness at this stage.
• The meat should bend and break without falling apart or crumbling.
• The color should be a rich, brownish red.

Here’s our deep dive into how to tell if beef jerky is done.

5. Cool and enjoy!

There’s nothing better than warm, homemade jerky fresh out of the oven. Steal a few pieces and enjoy. Let the rest cool before storing.

We recommend storing the ground beef jerky in the refrigerator in an airtight container and consuming it within 1 week.

Among the myriad campfire discussions regarding the choice—and performance—of hunting cartridges, there are two words which have become a source of controversy over the last twenty years: “Six Five.” There was a time in the not-too-distant past, where very few hunters or shooters paid any attention to the 6.5mm cartridges. Despite the attempts by Winchester and Remington—with the .264 Winchester Magnum and 6.5 Remington Magnum, respectively—the bore diameter never really caught on here.

My first experience with the 6.5s was when a friend asked me to mount and zero a scope on his rifle—a 6.5×55 Swedish. He had sent along a couple of boxes of older Norma ammunition with 156-grain round nose softpoint ammo, and I was immediately intrigued by those long, lean bullets and lack of recoil. Looking into the ballistics, I couldn’t understand why the caliber wasn’t more popular. The .260 Remington was just a few years old at the time, and hadn’t really made huge waves yet, and the handful of .264 Winchester Magnums that were floating around were a rarity at best.

Fast forward fifteen years, and the 6.5 Creedmoor would be gaining a good head of steam, despite a relatively slow start. Garnering a following among the target crowd first, and ultimately among hunters, the Creedmoor seemed to bring the 6.5mm diameter to the masses, while the .260 Remington and 6.5-284 Norma just couldn’t achieve that level of popularity. Why would the Creedmoor gain acceptance, when we had such a similar level of performance in a cartridge released at the end of the 19th century? Let’s pit them against one another to find out.

The 6.5×55 Swedish is a rimless cartridge with a case head diameter slightly larger than the 7mm and 8mm Mausers (0.479-inch vs. 0.473-inch), with a 25-degree, 17½-minute shoulder, and a case length of 55mm (2.165 inches). With a cartridge overall length of 3.150 inches (or 80.0mm), the 6.5×55 can be crammed into a short-action receiver, but is best served by a long-action. Introduced as a military cartridge simultaneously by Norway and Sweden in the 1890s after a series of military trials, the 6.5x55mm cartridge remains a very popular cartridge among the Scandinavian countries, being used for game species as large as European moose. You may find several names for this cartridge, including 6.5x55SE (the European CIP designation), 6.5×55 SKAN (in Scandinavia) and 6.5×55 Swedish Mauser; the SAAMI-approved name for the cartridge is 6.5×55 Swedish. Depending on the brand of ammunition, the 6.5x55mm will drive a 140-grain bullet to a muzzle velocity ranging from 2,500 fps to as high as 2,735 fps. Most of the major manufacturers have a load or two for the Swede, though some have become seasonal or are made in limited runs. Lapua offers a 155-grain load at 2,559 fps and Federal loads their 156-grain Fusion at 2500 fps, for those who appreciate the advantage of heavier projectiles. There are a good number of rifles available in 6.5×55, including the Tikka T3 and Sako 85, and over the years the Remington 700, Winchester 70 and Ruger No. 1 have all been chambered for the Swede.

The 6.5 Creedmoor was developed by Hornady, and is the .30 T/C cartridge necked down to hold 6.5mm projectiles. Also a rimless cartridge, the Creedmoor uses a 30-degree shoulder for headspacing and a 1.920-inch case to allow longer bullets to be used in a standard short-action magazine. Developed as a long-range target cartridge, the high sectional density and ballistic coefficient of the 6.5mm bullets were certainly put to use with good effect, and though the Creedmoor didn’t exactly explode onto the scene, it became a buzzword by 2013 and 2014. Driving a 140-grain bullet to just over 2700 fps, the Creedmoor has all but knocked the .308 Winchester out of the spotlight among long range target shooters, and has developed a reputation as a sound hunting cartridge for game animals all the way up to elk and moose, though I feel there are better tools for the largest ungulates. The Creedmoor has been hailed by some as the “be-all-and-end-all” cartridge, capable of killing any game animal on earth, and well, that’s just not the truth. It is, undeniably, a great deer and antelope cartridge. It is perfectly suited for a short-action bolt rifle, as well as the AR-10 platform.

Almost all rifle manufacturers offer a gun chambered for 6.5 Creedmoor, even down to the lever-actions like the Henry Long Ranger. If you were looking for a rifle to do double duty as a hunting gun and a long range target rifle, the 6.5 Creedmoor is a perfectly sensible choice. Recoil is minimal, and that is also another of the Creedmoor’s appeal.

How do the two compare? Well, in deference to the older firearms, I feel the 6.5×55 Swedish suffers from the same fate as the 7×57 and 8×57 Mauser, in that much of the factory ammunition isn’t loaded to its full potential. When it is loaded properly—as in the Hornady Superformance line—it is fully the equal of the much more modern 6.5 Creedmoor. I feel that the 155- and 156-grain bullets, like the Lapua Mega and Norma Oryx, actually extend the versatility of the 6.5×55 Swedish, and can give it a slight advantage over the Creedmoor. Where the Creedmoor does have an advantage is in the sheer availability of the ammunition. There is a wide selection of hunting bullets, ranging from 120 to 143 grains, and of various construction methods. From the Hornady ELD-X to Federal’s Fusion and Terminal Ascent, to Nosler’s AccuBond and Barnes’ LRX, the hunter has plenty to choose from. Sadly, the same cannot be said for the 6.5×55 Swedish; the bullets are there, but the production numbers are not.

So with very similar velocities—the Creedmoor has a slight advantage—and comparable bullet weights, though the Swedish has some heavier offerings, who gets the nod? Were it not for the sheer availability of the Creedmoor rifles and ammunition, I would call this a draw; the performance is just too similar to say one is the more advantageous design. I actually prefer the 6.5×55 Swedish, primarily from a reloader’s point of view, as there is a bit more room in the case. But I’m pretty sure there isn’t a game animal which could ever tell the difference between the two cartridges. In this one, the Creedmoor—probably due to some excellent marketing on the part of Hornady—wins out; the wide selection of available factory ammo and premium hunting projectiles gives it the edge.

Looking for previous installments of our “Head to Head” series? Click here.

The number of surf casters and light tackle enthusiasts casting soft plastics for striped bass is increasing each season. Whether the application is a weedless bait on light tackle in the early season or rigged on a jig head for a summer night in the surf we see more use of soft plastics now than ever. Along with the advances in soft baits themselves have come innovations in rigging soft plastics for striped bass.

Wide Variety of Shapes and Sizes

The popularity and innovation stem in large part from the versatility of soft plastics. There are a wide variety of profiles with soft, pliable bodies that produce a life-like action. Some argue that the supple materials also give soft plastics a better mouth-feel than hard lures. The benefit being that the gamefish would be less likely to let go immediately after striking. Also, many manufacturers impregnate their soft plastics with scents of bunker and sand eel when creating baits to target striped bass and other northeast gamefish. In the simplest terms there are three designs used in saltwater:

• Jerk Baits with inline tails of various shapes. When fishing jerk baits the rod tip creates the action, and it is more subtle.

• Paddle Tails with a wide flat tail oriented horizontally to the body of the bait. Paddle tails are a much more active bait, and the design of the bait creates the action.

• Grub Tails or pigtails also have a lot of action and are used in smaller soft plastics and to enhance a bucktail jig. Very popular in freshwater.

Beyond this point, there are a dizzying amount of options and would require a series of articles to scratch the surface.

Pre- Rigged Soft Plastic Options

Anglers can purchase some soft plastics pre-rigged on a jig head; examples include the Savage Gear Sandeel and the Ron Z Original Soft Baits.

Also, some baits like the Hogy Slow Tailand the Tsunami Swim Shads that have the weight molded into the bait. If you are just getting into soft plastics one of these options might be the place to start. These baits are optimized for action and casting efficiency and eliminate the trial and error of matching hooks and heads with different baits.

Rigging Options for Soft Plastics

Centering Pin Springs are a simple way of attaching the hook to the head of a soft plastic bait. Rigged right these can be tossed in skinny water and are effectively weedless.

The Owner Beast Hooks are popular for this application as are the center pin hooks developed for Albie Snax. Worm Hooks also create a weedless presentation through simple rigging, and the length helps stiffen the body of the lure which allows for better casts. So anglers will make a few turns with tying thread behind the hook eye to create a surface to apply Zap A Gap Thin just before they permanently seat the hook in the bait. The Mustad Big Bite Soft Plastic Hook is a popular choice for this application. Here’s our selection of swimbait hooks.

Additionally, there is an assortment of jig heads on which to secure your bait, you may prefer one or another based on hook strength, size, the preferred method of attachment or color. MagicTail Kill Shotshave been among our more popular due to its heavy 8/0 hook and with a ridged collar designed to provide a secure attachment. The Jeck’s Bullet Bucktail has built a strong following in short order in part because the rear of the jig head is flat allowing a flush fit with the bait. This improves durability, and the flush fit positively impacts castability. With any jig head, it’s a good idea to super glue the area used to secure the soft plastic to the jig. Here’s our selection of jig heads.

Soft Plastic Rigging Tips

Let’s address a common challenge when rigging soft plastics for any gamefish regardless of the hook and method selected. That is “Where to enter the bait to ensure it swims properly?” Ideally, you do not want to pull the plastic off the hook/ jighead repeatedly in an attempt to get it right, but an improperly rigged soft plastic will twist on the retrieve creating an unnatural action in the water and sending the twists up your line causing “wicked tangles” in your braid in the future. The first step is to lay the hook or jighead on top of the plastic, to see where the hook and ultimately the bend would exit the body with the bait snug to the head while maintaining a straight but not overly stretched bait. Mark that point either with your forefinger and thumb or some anglers nick that location using the hook point to maintain orientation.

Rigging Weightless Soft Plastics

When rigging a weightless hook, you want to start and stay in the center of the bait until you reach the target location and then exit the bait through the center as well. Staying on the center line is all the more critical with unweighted hooks.

Rigging Jig Heads

When using a jig head hold the bait with your thumb and forefinger start in the center and thread the body onto the jighead, pushing the hook through the marked point and continuing to slide the bait forward until it contacts the jig head. If you have a flush connection a little Zap A Gap at the juncture will enhance durability.

A Word of Caution When Rigging Jig Heads

Many jigheads have some type of retention ridges or hooks to secure the soft plastic. Some excellent examples are the Z-Man TT Headlockz HD, Hogy Barbarian Jig Hook and Mustad Elite Bullet Jig Head; but with some materials or on smaller, thinner profile baits these retention methods can split and ruin the bait. So be mindful of using a strong hook with a bulky retention method with smaller and harder plastics as they may split. Probably the perfect time for a jig head with a bare hook utilizing the thread and super glue method described above or one of the jig heads from Owner mentioned above. At the end of the day when rigging soft plastics, “practice makes perfect.” Now more than ever, you can rig a soft plastic bait easily and for just about any surf or light tackle situations.

Outdoor enthusiasts often encourage people to “forget the forecast.” It’s a clever way of saying to enjoy the outdoors regardless of the weather. With so many variables at play, waiting for the right conditions would keep many people inside. But does the same logic apply when it comes to bowhunting? That depends. Weather should always be top of mind for bowhunters. It affects animal movement, personal safety and meat spoilage times.

Deciding whether to hunt or not in certain weather is mostly personal preference. However, certain conditions require greater preparation, and at times, a decision to stay inside can be for the best. This preparation is important enough to note that the National Bowhunter Education Foundation has an entire section dedicated to preparing for weather conditions in its bowhunter education curriculum.

Bowhunting in the rain can dramatically change your day in both good and bad ways. Here’s a look at the pros and cons of bowhunting in rainy conditions.

Pros:

Quiet Conditions

My 2021 elk season started out frustrating. Hot, dry conditions made it sound as if I were smashing a bag full of chips with every step on the forest floor. The crunchy ground made it impossible to do anything but sit patiently and hope an elk walked by. But then it rained. Wet weather changed everything. The rain drenched the grass, leaves and pine needles, making it possible to sneak silently through the forest. The morning after the wet weather moved in, I snuck up on two bulls fighting in the trees, an encounter that would have been impossible the previous day.

Concealed Movement

Rain helps conceal movement because it creates movement. As raindrops fall, they move branches and leaves, which can be just enough to mask your movements, including drawing your bow.

Scent Killer

The smell of fresh rain is so powerful that you’ll find it replicated in scented candles and home air fresheners. But rain isn’t just an odor; it’s an odor-killer. Rain helps mask human scent. It can wash away scent trails and make it more difficult for deer to detect human presence.

Changing Wildlife Movement

Bowhunters targeting ungulates like elk and deer typically expect the majority of animal movement to occur during the early morning hours and just before dark. That’s when animals are most active feeding and moving. However, weather patterns can change traditional movement. Light rain doesn’t typically cause animals to run for cover. Heavy rains will usually make wildlife hunker down. However, after a downpour, many animals will be up and moving, looking for food. And I’ve had some incredible rainy days in the field when the animals seemed to be moving all day long.

Less Human Pressure

Remember the advice, “forget the forecast”? Well, not everybody listens. Rainy days keep a lot of hunters home. If you’re not afraid of getting a little wet, you might find yourself alone in the field.

Cons:

Added Gear Requirements

Hunting in wet weather requires the right gear. You’ll need a waterproof jacket, pants and boots. Good rain gear can get expensive, and many materials are pretty noisy. But sitting or hiking in wet weather isn’t very fun either. Getting wet isn’t only uncomfortable; it can be dangerous. Hypothermia can happen in cold conditions, like downpours. And even if the situation isn’t dangerous, shivering can give away your position or make it impossible to hold your bow steady.

Dangerous Lightning

There’s a big difference between bowhunting in a rainstorm versus a thunderstorm. Lightning is dangerous, and you don’t want to risk getting caught in the field in it, especially in a treestand. When the forecast is calling for lightning, you should probably stay home. If you find yourself caught in an unexpected thunderstorm, leave the field as soon as possible if you can. Get out of the treestand immediately. Get away from any other metal. Avoid tall objects and fence lines.

Washed-Out Blood Trails

Rain hides human scent, but it also washes away blood trails. Often blood trails play a crucial role in the recovery of downed game. If you plan to hunt in the rain, it might be a good idea to have a blood-tracking dogon standby in case you take a shot — if using one is legal in your state.

Conclusion

Whether you bowhunt in the rain is up to you, but there are always some important considerations. Check the forecast every day and look into the specifics. A drizzle is different from a downpour, and you’ll want to stay home if lightning is expected. Bring the right layers. Pack extra clothing in the truck for a quick change at the end of the day in case you get wet. Make sure you have flagging tape in your pack. Rain will wash away a blood trail fast, but flagging tape will stay.

Bowhunting in the rain can provide a lot of opportunities. If you can handle a little wet weather, you might be rewarded with a day you won’t forget.

Venison is already delicious and nutritious in itself, but when mixed with pork fat, you can bring even more flavor out of your deer meat.

It’s especially great for burgers, meatloaf, meatballs, and every hunters favorite: snack sticks and sausage!

In this article I’ll go over the best pork-to-venison ratios, when you should mix with beef fat, and a few other helpful tips.

This page contains affiliate links. As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.

Table of Contents

• How Much Pork To Mix With Venison
• What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?
• Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?
• What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?
• How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?
• Final Thoughts
• Sources

How Much Pork To Mix With Venison

You should mix roughly 30% pork fat with venison when making snack sticks, venison sausage should have up to 50% pork fat, and venison burgers and meatballs need only contain about 20% pork fat. The amount of pork fat you need to mix with venison varies depending on the dish you’re making.

What Do You Mix With Deer When Grinding?

You should mix pork and beef fat with deer when grinding. These act as binding agents and flavor enhancers during the grinding process to compensate for the low moisture content of the lean game meat.

The choice and amount of meat to be added typically varies by personal preference. However, it would be best to read up on established golden ratios and meat-venison mixtures to enjoy your favorite ground venison dishes.

You can opt to mix beef fat with venison to make a patty or meatloaf more cohesive or to enjoy juicy snack sticks that would instead feel dry if you stick with pure venison.

If you are sort of a food connoisseur, you may notice, though, that the overall texture and juiciness of the beef-venison combination lacks refinement, in which case, you may want to try mixing it with pork.

Ground pork fat functions similarly to beef fat when mixed with venison, although you might observe a more savory mix when using pork.

An essential factor to watch out for and consider would be the source of pork fat that you mix with venison.

For instance, fat from pork belly may contain too much flavor and could overpower the deer meat.

You will not want this if you are more inclined to highlight venison’s flavor than the former in the ground meat mix.

Meanwhile, opting for back fat may provide you with just the right chewy texture without compromising the authentic venison taste.

Why Do You Mix Pork Fat With Deer Meat When Grinding?

Mixing pork fat with venison provides moisture, flavor, and cohesion to your venison grounds and a soft texture that outperforms beef fat. Additionally, venison is generally lean meat, so it needs pork fat to bind the venison grounds together.

Otherwise, you may find yourself struggling to cook pure venison patties that easily break apart.

Purists may find this problematic, thinking that precious venison meat deserves to be enjoyed free from other types of red meat that are not as lean or healthy.

The thing about the lean nature of venison is that it makes it challenging to prepare several other meat-based dishes without compromising quality.

However, if only you can toss just the right amount of pork fat into your grinder, you can expect a marbly grind that closely resembles the most common patties – beef patties.

The combination of flavorful pork fat and venison also results in a delectable ground mix. When ground, the combination of juicy pork and deer meat leaves you satisfied while also free from the greasy after-taste that comes with, say, beef.

Sausages with the perfect pork fat to venison ratio coupled with the ideal preparation steps can leave you wanting more. Besides the seasoning added to the pork and venison mix, the pork fat itself already adds flavor to your deer meat.

The moisture extracted from different types of pork cuts, such as bacon and belly, makes the entire meal even more satisfying.

The lean nature of venison makes it quickly dry out during meal prep, so the extra fat accords you with the juiciness necessary to enjoy delicious – but dry – meat.

Imagine indulging in protein-rich, saporous venison snack sticks with a hint of bacon. It seems like it could not get any better.

What Kind of Pork Do You Mix With Deer Meat?

As mentioned earlier, to enhance the juiciness and taste of venison, a certain amount of pork fat is needed. So, it’s best to add pork cuts that contain high-fat content in your grind.

Deciding on the pork cut to use depends on the taste of the end product you want. Do you want to retain the gamey taste without the dryness, or would you prefer one with a hint of pork flavor?

You can mix deer meat with any kind of pork, including pork butts or shoulders or a higher fat pork belly. Butts and shoulders are milder in flavor, while pork belly gives you a more pronounced pork taste. It depends on your preference.

If you want the unadulterated taste of venison, grind it together with pork butts or shoulders. These pork cuts are located at the front end of the pig and contain high-fat contents.

However, if you don’t mind a more domesticated taste, go for the pork belly. This slightly more pricey cut is located in the pig’s underside and is where bacon comes from.

It also has a high-fat content and that distinct pork taste that will undoubtedly influence your venison grind.

Meanwhile, back fat provides your ground venison with a soft and chewy texture, perfect for sausages and meatballs.

How Do You Mix Venison and Pork?

To mix venison and pork, start by ensuring the meats are chilled. This will help with handling and grinding. Next, find a ratio of pork to venison that works for your tastes and then grind them separately before mixing them together into a uniform mound. Finally, add any spices at the end to taste.

The amount of pork you add with venison depends on the kind of meal you plan to prepare. You’ll want to experiment on the correct pork to venison ratio and source of pork fat that you will be using.

Different types of pork fat contain varying moisture and flavor, so consider this when deciding whether to opt for savory belly fat or the more low-key back fat.

For venison sausages, you would want a more fatty venison grind. As such, I suggest mixing at least 20% pork fat with 80% venison. Of course, you can go higher than this, depending on your taste.

Just remember that eating sausages with a fat content higher than 50% can make you feel lethargic.

Venison snack sticks are a versatile outdoor treat typically marketed to hunters that may coincidentally hunt for game. If you want to have that extra money for that cool new hunting gear, you can save on buying snack sticks by making them on your own.

You can make venison snack sticks using 100% venison, but most prefer adding a little bit of pork into it (around 30%) to achieve a certain degree of juiciness. Just make sure you have the time to make them before your next hunt.

Lastly, if you’re into burgers, meatballs, and meatloaves, you may want to try burger patties made of venison. Again, you’ll just have to add a little bit of fat to prevent it from drying out and crumbling during the cooking process.

As with patties made of beef, the fat content is essential to grind the meat. Always remember that venison is leaner than beef, and you may want to add a little more fat than you would wish to on your beef patties.

The safe bet is to go for 20% fat to make the taste of your patties richer.

Pro Tip: I always prefer to grind my venison semi-frozen, after it’s been thawed out. This keeps the meat cold, and prevents your grinds from getting too wet or juicy,

Final Thoughts

One of the most rewarding aspects of hunting is the processing of your own game meat. I highly recommend you give it a try.

You May Also Like: Buck, Buck, Moose: Wild Game Cook Book

If you prefer to use your local game processor or butcher, that’s fine too. Just ask them to add some pork fat to your ground venison, and you’ll have a versatile ingredient that can replace nearly any ground beef recipe.

Thanks for reading!

See Also: Why Eating Does Vension Sometimes Give Me Gas?

• Neem Oil Deer Repellent: Does It Really Work?
• Is It Okay To Burn Bark In a Wood Stove?
• Do Deer Eat Morel Mushrooms?
• How To Properly Dispose of Wood Stove Ashes (Safely!)
• Is Fatwood Safe for Wood Stoves? Here’s What You Should Know
• Is Beaver Good to Eat? You May Be Surprised!
• Is Bread Bad For Deer? Here’s What You Should Know
• Are Roosters Good to Eat?
• 3 Easy Ways To Tell If Your Wood Stove Is Leaking

Sources

• Fox Valley Foodie: How To Butcher a Deer – Grinding Venison
• Legendary Whitetails: The Key to Crafting a Better Venison Burger
• Allied Kenco Sales: Wild Game Sausage Making Information Sheet
• Nassau Foods: Preparing the Perfect Venison
• Home Kitchen Talk: Pork to Venison Ratio for Summer Sausage
• Home Kitchen Talk: How Much Pork Fat to Add to Venison Sausage?
• North American Whitetail: How to Grind Whitetail Deer Venison

THE PRODIGY IS NO LONGER JUST A ’90S EDM BAND, AND 2011S JUST GOT MORE AFFORDABLE

It’s somewhat ironic that the eight years since STI’s patent expired on their hi-cap 2011 design have been the company’s most profitable, due in no small part to their rebranding as Staccato and making a serious play for the LE market by marketing raceguns to cops.

That business success has attracted others to the field, the latest being Springfield Armory, which aims to bring their manufacturing and marketing horsepower to the platform.

As one of the U.S.’s biggest 1911 vendors, Springfield’s decision to add a widebody option to the stable was an obvious one, but getting 2011s to run reliably seems for whatever reason to be more difficult than their single-stack brethren; this problem is exacerbated in calibers that don’t start with a .4.

We got hands-on with a couple of their preproduction models to see if they can pull it off.

LIFTING THE HOOD

Coming to market in early fall with two base models, a Government and Commander version, Springfield is giving the consumer just enough choices to make things interesting while hinting at what’s to come. Both guns ship with two magazines, a 17-round flush-fit, and an extended 20-rounder that complies with the USPSA 140mm limit, and both are ready for optics right out of the box.

To appeal to the maximum number of users, a system of optics mounting plates will accommodate most MRDS footprints, while preserving iron sights as a backup. Our test guns shipped with a Trijicon RMR on the 5-inch barreled version and one of Springfield’s Hex Dragonfly red dots on the 4.25.

This shares a mounting pattern with Burris and Vortex, so fans of those sights are already taken care of, and we’re told a Leupold-pattern plate will be available shortly.

Both mounting plates are beveled to blend the MRDS body into the slide rather than leave an unsightly overhang, and old-school users are taken care of with fixed front and rear, suppressor-height iron sights, and the front sporting a green fiber optic.

BUIS height appears to have been chosen so that even with red dots with a thick LED housing, such as the RMR, there’s just enough rear sight notch visible over the red dot to be useful without resorting to stratospherically tall irons.

The arse-end of the slide below your chosen sighting device is resolutely old-school and conforms to the Series 70 pattern, with thankfully no trace of a firing pin safety to mess up the classic 1911 trigger pull.

A standard extractor is fitted and correctly tensioned, while the firing pin stop is radiused appropriately for 9mm loads. On both guns, the ejection port is lowered and beveled — no voodoo here, just well-established 1911 gunsmithing.

Forward cocking serrations mimic ones at the slide’s rear, and the usual ball cuts are almost completely absent, save for a vestigial notch that lines up with the almost full-length dust cover. This adds a noticeable amount of mass to the muzzle, which may or may not be your cup of Earl Grey, but there’s no denying the Prodigy’s slide-to-frame fit, which is as tight as many custom guns.

Both slide and frame rails are very well machined, with a silky-smooth action.

1911 purists will turn up their noses at the full-length, two-piece guide rod that’s retained by a reverse recoil spring plug, but they probably didn’t make it this far into the gun anyway, having been turned off by the lack of a “cause they don’t make a 46” caliber and polymer grip.

Their loss. Should anyone want to return to Browning’s original recoil spring design, there’s a slot in the slide to accept a barrel bushing, though this is probably to reduce the number of slide SKUs on hand, rather than an indication of future design intent.

The Prodigy’s barrel is massive, stainless, conventionally rifled with a 16 twist, and Nowlin ramped. One of the first tests we do on 1911s before hitting the range is check barrel to slide lockup, as without hand-fitting, it’s tough to ensure proper engagement between the barrel lug’s camming surface and the slide stop.

Some factories cheat by relying on the barrel link to push the barrel into battery, which works for a few hundred rounds but will eventually shoot loose, leading to sloppy lockup and vertical stringing on target. After hand-cycling the slide a few dozen times, we field stripped the pistols and found even wear on the slide stop across its mating surface, indicating that the barrel feet were making contact where they should.

Turning attention to the frame, controls are what you’d expect of a single-action handgun designed to span both competition and defensive roles. Ambi thumb safeties have zero play between the left and right levers, snicking into engagement with a positive click.

While the magazine release is slightly extended over a stock 1911, you’ll still have to rotate the gun in your hand to reach it, unless you wear a glove bigger than XXL, as the grip is slightly fatter than Browning’s original. That said, it’s nowhere near unmanageable, unless you think a G17 is unwieldy — the grip circumference is identical.

Using the same two-piece construction as an STI/Staccato/SVI means different grip modules can be added to the frame, should you get bored with the standard polymer lower. We have no idea if a steel 2011 grip will bolt straight up, as there’s considerable variation between existing frames in the marketplace, which may require the end user or their ’smith to be handy with a file. But if it does, SVI, Limcat, Cheely, Phoenix Trinity etc. will be happy to add about 7 ounces to the overall weight, while subtracting 600 bucks from your bank balance.

That said, it’ll probably be a while before you’ll want to swap anything, as all the usual modifications we typically do to a stock frame after it leaves the factory are already included — there’s a double undercut on the trigger guard, a soft-but-grippy stipple job and a perfectly executed, functional beavertail safety. Hinting at future accessories, there’s a rail at the grip’s lower edge, which is no doubt designed to secure a magwell in conjunction with the mainspring housing pin.

Compared to an older STI frame we had on hand, the Prodigy’s is approximately 2mm thicker through the dust cover area, adding non-reciprocating mass and burying the slide release, which is inlet into a machined pocket. This makes it slightly harder to engage for administrative handling but doesn’t affect the shooter’s ability to hit on a

reload with either the master or non-dominant thumb. In case you were wondering, the Commander-sized upper fits on the 5-inch frame, despite its 3/8-inch shorter recoil stroke, leaving room for a compensator should someone be so inclined. And we’d be surprised if a factory carry comp version weren’t high up on the agenda.

ROUNDS DOWNRANGE

Bottom line up front — yeah, they can shoot.

Once we made a slight adjustment to the red dot and dialed its brightness all the way down, standing unsupported at 50 yards, the Commander version turned in a 2.25-inch, five-shot group with 130PF reloads consisting of Montana Gold 121-grain JHPs over WSF powder.

We’ve shot pistol-caliber carbines that struggle to get that kind of accuracy, so for a 4.25-inch barreled handgun to achieve it in the first 20 rounds of a range session is an indication of its potential. In the next 300 rounds, we replicated that performance numerous times.

The 5-inch Prodigy didn’t quite achieve the same accuracy as its little brother with the ammo we had available, but it’s one of the softest-shooting handguns we’ve ever encountered, aided no doubt by the amount of heft in the hand.

With a little time to tune ammo to the gun, we’re pretty sure it would turn in similar groups, but deadlines limit the amount of tinkering we’re able to do.

We’d be interested to see what a steel grip frame does to further damp out recoil, because adding a SureFire X300U keeps the front end down during rapid fire.

Slide velocity is noticeably slower than the Commander version — you can feel the pistol pick up a round from the magazine if you concentrate hard — but we couldn’t outrun it no matter how hard we tried during Bill drills.

Are these handguns we’d take right out of the box and stick in a holster for daily carry? Hell no, but then we’d hesitate to do that with a Glock or SIG as well. The difference is that we’d expect the striker-fired guns to run 100 percent during a brief familiarization and break-in period, while the 1911-pattern pistols might stutter. And so it was.

We had two failures to feed in the short gun, both with hollow points, and both on the penultimate round from a magazine. These occurred during the first range session, after which it ran without a glitch, but we’d want to shoot a case of ammo through both Prodigy models before pronouncing them fit for duty — it’s just the nature of tight-fitting 1911s.

If you want the awesome trigger, shoot-the-balls-off-a-gnat accuracy, and overall shootabilty, then you’ll have to put in the time to gain confidence in the system.

Double-stack 1911s aren’t beginners’ guns. For anyone starting out, we continue to recommend a good striker-fired, polymer-framed service pistol of whatever flavor you like best. But when you’re ready for an upgrade, Springfield have made the cost of entry to the 2011 world much more affordable, and once you’ve shot them, you probably won’t want to shoot anything else.

SPECS

Springfield Armory Prodigy

• Caliber: 9mm Para
• Capacity: 17; 20 rounds
• Barrel Length: 5; 4.25 inches
• Overall Length: 8.5; 7.8 inches
• Weight: 37; 33.3 ounces
• MSRP: $1,499 without optic; $1,699 with Hex Dragonfly

As a father, few things are as rewarding as passing along my love of hunting and shooting to my three children. The looks of joy on my kids’ faces when their shot rings a freshly-painted steel target are memories that money can’t buy. Shooting was a way for me to bond with my own father, and I am now enjoying that same opportunity with my family. Teaching kids to shoot builds responsibility and demystifies firearms, hopefully satisfying some of that natural curiosity. With the correct equipment and close supervision, shooting is an incredibly safe activity. The ability to use a firearm safely and put food on the table is a valuable skill that has endured in our nation for centuries.

Through my own experience, I’ve learned more than a few things about the right and wrong way to teach young shooters. For starters, a rifle that fits the child’s stature is an absolute must. A rifle that is too large is setting the new shooter up for failure, so it is important to pick the right tool for the job. A rifle that fits an eight-year-old isn’t going to be ideal for a teenager and vice versa. Length-of-pull and comb height can be critically important since both dimensions are key in ensuring that the shooter can use the sights effectively. It can be incredibly frustrating to both the shooter and the coach when the child can’t find the sights or reticle.

A cartridge that is inexpensive to shoot and minimizes recoil and muzzle blast is a must, making the .22 LR a natural choice. Most children have limited attention spans so creating a rifle that will give the young shooter a good possibility of success is key. Nothing will be more frustrating to a young shooter than not achieving the gratification of a hit on the target so quality sights or the ability to mount optics are a must.

Choosing the correct rifle can mean the difference between your child or grandchild becoming a lifelong shooting enthusiast and someone who is scared of firearms. You only get one chance to take them shooting for the first time. Here is a closer look at four rimfire rifles that are ideal for youth shooters.

Crickett Rifle

When each of my children were born, my local gun store gifted each of them with their first rifles. Those little guns were made by Crickett, pink stocks for the girls and camo laminate for my son. Crickett rifles are single-shots with 11 ½” lengths of pull and 16 1/8” barrels. Weighing just three pounds, these tiny .22LRs are ideal for beginners. As the child grows, spacers can increase the length of pull so the rifle can grow alongside. Crickett rifles are available in a wide variety of configurations and colors and come equipped with simple but serviceable iron sights. I added an optional rail so that I could mount an Aimpoint Micro red dot to my son’s rifle, which uses with great success. For those who own a rimfire suppressor, threaded barrel models are available. I’ve found suppressors to be a fantastic tool for teaching new shooters. Starting at $163; keystonesportingarmsllc.com

Winchester Wildcat

A bolt action fire can get a bit boring for a child, especially a teenager. Winchester’s Wildcat is a compact and lightweight semi-automatic .22 LR. With a length-of-pull of 13 ½”, the Wildcat is better suited for older children. This autoloader comes with both aperture sights and a Picatinny rail for mounting optics. Its synthetic stock A 10-round rotary magazine means that more time will be spent shooting than loading. $250; winchesterguns.com

Henry Golden Boy Youth

There isn’t much more American than a lever-action rifle, especially one made by a company that prides itself in making everything here in the U.S.A. Henry’s Golden Boy Youth rimfire will bring out the inner cowboy or cowgirl in all of us. This little rifle can use .22 Short, Long or Long Rifle ammunition, which is a real benefit for younger shooters. Like most lever actions, the Henry feeds from a tubular magazine, the capacity of which varies with the size of the ammunition used. The brass receiver, butt plate and barrel band are a throwback to some of the earliest lever-action rifles from the 19th Century. The length of pull on this Henry is 13” and the octagonal barrel is 17” long. A brass front bead and buckhorn rear sight come standard and the receiver is also drilled and tapped for scope mounting. Like most lever actions, this rifle is ideal for right or left-handed shooters. $589; henryusa.com

Ruger Precision Rimfire

Long-range shooting has become incredibly popular in past years and young shooters aren’t immune to its challenging appeal. Ruger’s Precision Rimfire combines all of the features of its centerfire Precision in a lighter, more compact and less-expensive format. The real beauty of this rifle is its adjustability: The length of pull can be adjusted between 12 and 15” without tools so it can be tailor-fit to each shooter. An M-LOK-compatible forend makes mounting accessories such as a bipod simple and painless. The 18” barrels is threaded ½”-28 at the muzzle, meaning that it is compatible with rimfire suppressors. The rifle looks very modern, like something kids might see in a video game. Let’s face it, that’s important. $529; ruger.com

Lighting a bonfire isn’t all that difficult as long as you have the right materials and tools. Start small by gathering dry tinder – very small twigs, leaves, newspaper, and other small materials that will easily catch fire. Then gather your kindling – larger sticks and thin pieces of wood to add on top of the burning tinder.

Finally, you’ll need your fuel wood. Larger branches, logs, and pieces of wood will burn slowly and keep your fire going. Get all the material on hand before you light anything or else you risk burning your tinder and kindling and having no fire to show for it.

However, for everyone else that doesn’t have a tree in their backyard or a wooded area to gather these materials, lighting a fire can be a bit more difficult. Regardless of how you start the fire, you’ll need some kindling to help catch the larger pieces of wood.

If all you have are larger pieces of wood, you can use an axe, hatchet, or even the Kindling Cracker, below, to help break small pieces off of the split logs. Throw these pieces on top of the ideas we’re going to walk through below.

We recommend the Kindling Cracker XL Firewood Splitter

6 Foolproof Ways to Light a Bonfire

Use Charcoal

Inexpensive, readily available, and slow-burning, charcoal is great for not only grilling but getting a fire going too. Pick it up at any gas station, grocery store, or campground with a bottle of lighter fluid and you’re ready to go! Lighter fluid helps get the charcoal going, but a charcoal chimney will save you money in the long run since it makes it easier to light the fire.

If you choose to use lighter fluid, make sure you let the lighter fluid soak into the charcoal for a minute or two before lighting. An added benefit of using a charcoal chimney is that if you choose to grill over your fire, you won’t get the lighter fluid taste cooked into your food.

We Recommend the Kingsford Quick Start Charcoal Chimney Starter

Cooking Oil and Paper Towel Waste

Next time you have leftover cooking oil, throw it into a large mason jar. Anytime you have paper towels that are still semi-dry, add those to the mason jar as well. These paper towels will soak up the used cooking oil and are great for lighting directly under kindling.

Bacon Grease, Toilet Paper Rolls, and Dryer Lint

If you grew up with a mason jar of bacon grease in the fridge, most of your meals were probably pretty tasty, even if they leaned towards the ‘unhealthy’ side of the spectrum. While you might not cook with bacon grease like your parents once did, that doesn’t mean you need to throw it out after a Saturday morning breakfast.

Keep your extra bacon grease in a mason jar and start saving your empty toilet paper/paper towel rolls along with any dryer lint. Lightly stuff the empty cardboard tubes with dryer lint and add in some bacon grease after it’s been heated up.

These are great fire starters you can put into a ziplock bag and take on the go. If you prefer working with something a little cleaner, the coffee ground option we mention in this list is the better option.

Sawdust and Paper Briquettes

This option requires quite a lot more effort than the previously mentioned ideas. If you do any sort of DIY projects where you’re cutting wood, you know it creates a lot of sawdust. Combine this sawdust with all the junk mail and amazon boxes that come to your house and you have a ton of burnable wood/paper products.

With some water and elbow grease, you can turn these wood by-products into burnable ‘logs’ or briquettes. A few videos are included below on how to do this, but the idea is simple.

• Create a paper/sawdust slushy – Add shredded paper, shredded cardboard, and sawdust to a water mixture.
• Push the slushy mixture into forms – whether bricks, bucket-shaped, etc.
• Squeeze the water out, then allow the ‘logs’ to dry in the sun

You don’t need a fancy rig or setup like many of the people below have. You can get started doing this with just 2x 5-gallon buckets and a piece of wood.

Pre-made Starters

While going the DIY route is easy and fun, it is time-consuming. For those strapped for time, below are our suggestions for pre-made fire starters.

We recommend QuickSurvive All-Purpose Waterproof Fire Starters

Tips for Lighting your Bonfire

Use Only Dry Firewood

Even if the wood appears dry, it might not be. A good way to determine if it’s fully dry is to drop it on concrete. If you hear a firm ‘thud’, rather than a hollow echo, then there’s still some moisture in it and you may have trouble lighting it.

If this wood is still a little damp, it will burn. If you’re in a pinch to get a fire going, buy some kiln-dried firewood to get the fire going, then add your slightly damp wood on top. It will smoke a bit more than fully-seasoned wood, but it’ll usually burn.

Feed the Embers Oxygen

After you’ve added your kindling and it’s begun burning well, start feeding it oxygen. You can use a piece of cardboard to fan it, or if you have an air inflator or leaf blower, those will work much better. The oxygen helps to raise the temperature of the fire and help it burn more efficiently. This helps the wood you’re adding catch faster.

Don’t Suffocate the Fire with Paper

If you have a large stack of paper or other documents you’re trying to get rid of, feed them to the fire slowly – preferably in crumpled balls. It’s easy to drop a large pile of papers and wait for them to catch, but you’ll risk suffocating the fire.

Buy a Blow Torch

If you have enough bonfires, using a stick lighter or matches gets old after a while. A blow torch head is under $20 and the refill tanks are only $3 or so a piece and last quite a while. Your thumbs and fingers will thank you.

Other Scenarios

How to Light a Beach Bonfire

Lighting a beach bonfire isn’t all that different from a backyard fire. There are only a few different precautions you’ll want to take to make the fire safe and enjoyable for everyone.

For starters, you’ll want to have a small shovel with you. The Glock E-tool is perfect for this and if your car is ever stuck in the mud or snow, this tool is a lifesaver for that too.

We recommend the Glock’s Entrenching Tool with Saw (E-Tool)

Dig a shallow hole in the sand and build a small berm around the perimeter of the hole. If there are some larger rocks you can move next to the berm, even better.

PRO-TIP

Make sure you know where the high tide comes in and stay well away from that area. Water can pool up in the bottom of your fire pit and cut your night short.

Pat down the bottom of the hole so you have a firm surface to work with. If you have additional rocks, these can be added to the bottom of the hole for a hard dry surface for the wood to sit on. The irregularities in the shapes of the rocks will also allow more air to flow to the fire.

Now you can gather all of your tinder, kindling, and fuel materials to get the fire going. Typically, it’s better to use a tee-pee structure for a beach bonfire, since that will encourage more air to flow to the embers. After the party is over, be sure to extinguish the fire with plenty of water and then bury the embers and ashes.

CAUTION

Check local laws to ensure it is legal for you to have a bonfire on the beach. Some areas will require you to request a permit.

Safety Precautions

Avoid Using Accelerants – Do NOT Use Gasoline

Apart from being a poor bonfire starter, using gas is dangerous and can be explosive. The vapors coming off of gasoline are what catch fire before the liquid itself does. Gasoline tends to ‘flash’ and can flash large enough to catch you and anything around you on fire before you even know it.

Charcoal and lighter fluid are much safer alternatives as long as you follow the directions on their packaging.

Don’t Burn Pressure Treated Wood or Anything Else Chemically Treated

Pressure-treated wood is most easily recognized by its greenish tint. Avoid burning this wood at all costs. Pressure-treated wood has been injected with chemicals to prevent it from decaying when in contact with the ground or moisture.

It goes without saying that burning this wood releases these chemicals into the air, which are known to cause cancer. Always wash your hands after handling pressure-treated wood

Lake Trout Ice Fishing Tips and Tricks January 11, 2022 — Comments from resorts, outfitters and guests.

I used to fish for Lake Trout a lot more than I do these days. Not that I didn’t love it, I did, but since I became addicted to ice fishing for panfish, Laker’s sort of wound up on the back burner for me.

Lately though, not only readers, but some family members too, have been asking questions about how to get set up for ice fishing Lake Trout. Since it’s been a while for me, I decided that the best way to handle the questions by getting some tips from my friends who fish for Lake Trout a lot more than me. This way, I can do justice to their questions while I also use the project as a refresher course to help fill in gaps in my own knowledge.

I started by calling my friend Andy Arola (photo left), he’d just returned home from a successful ice fishing trip for Lakers. As it happens, he and his crew were fishing on Clearwater West, a lake that I’ve fished in the past too, it gave us some familiar experiences to compare.

Before we get into the “how-tos” of catching them, let me interject this; the obvious best way to catch Lake Trout is to select a lake that has a lot of them. However, traveling to the best of the best Lake Trout Lakes takes commitment. So, if you’re planning on dabbling, learning the ropes so-to-speak, it might be a good idea to check out some of the lakes in your own back yard first.

No matter where you live in the Midwest, you can find them close to home. Obviously, some lakes are better than others, it pays to do your research ahead of time and pick the one that you believe offers a reasonable opportunity for you and your circumstances.

Once you arrive at the lake, Arola offers this advice; “My best overall depth range averages about 35 to 45 feet deep, especially during morning and evening. Sometimes, during midday, I’ll move out deeper, but I rarely fish water depths over 70 feet deep.”

Structure is important but differs from the type of spots that walleye anglers might choose to fish. Mid-lake structures, bars and humps for example get little attention from Arola. Shoreline related rock points or sandy shoals get the most attention. Early and late in the day, stick tight to the structures closest to shore. During mid-day, loosen up the perimeter and experiment in deeper water.

Judging how long to fish in a spot is subjective, the rule of thumb is to make short moves first but expand the search area when necessary. Arola; “If I’m seeing lots of baitfish on the screen and there is an occasional Lake Trout sighted, I’ll stick close to the area. When I do move, it will be typically short distances, 100 to 200 yards. But if the screen is blank and there are no signs of bait or predators on the locator, we will make both longer and more frequent moves, sometimes a couple of miles between stops. When you land on the right area, you will see fish roaming in and out of range.”

The gear he uses daily is somewhat lighter than you might expect. A 34 inch, medium to medium-heavy action rod paired with 15-pound test braid is standard. A 6 foot long, 8-pound test fluorocarbon leader is used to help give his lures the most natural appearance. Arola; “I’m a big believer in using reels with smooth and reliable drags, they protect the lighter line from breaking when a larger or stronger fish makes an unexpected run.”

Arola does have one heavier action rod rigged up and uses it when larger fish are observed. The heavy artillery is a 36-inch, heavy action rod with 30-pound test braid and an 8 foot long, heavier fluorocarbon leader.

Arola’s views about fishing gear echoes the advice I got from Grant Prokop, 1000 Lakes Sports, earlier this winter when I was shopping for Christmas gifts. Prokop: “Getting set up with heavier rods and line is great for when you’re hooking up with big enough fish. But most of the time, anglers encounter fish that average smaller, 3 to 7 pounds or thereabouts. Stiff rods don’t offer enough give and take to prevent giving the fish slack line. A lighter action rod stays loaded up much better and makes losing those average size fish a lot less likely.”

Personally, I’ve never had an ice rod which was devoted to lake trout fishing. A medium-heavy action Ugly Stick, 30 inches long I think and rigged with 10 pound test has served as my pike-walleye-trout combo rod. Admittedly, if I ever hooked a really big lake trout, I’d probably lose it. But so far, I have never hooked one big enough to give me that problem.

Arola’s array of trout fishing lures is fairly simple. “My #1 favorite lake trout lure is a ½ ounce white bucktail jig, white, it has to be white!” Arola says. “Some of my friends like using the white tubes with a 3/8 or ½ ounce tube head stuffed inside them, but I like the action of the bucktails better.”

Arola suggests that we should also have one rod rigged up with a jigging spoon too. It should be flashy, but not too heavy. I asked if something like a ¼ ounce Quiver Spoon would be a good choice. “Yes, you want it to flutter down slower and give off lots of flash, that allows fish more time to find and strike it.” Arola added.

Finally, I asked for an opinion about the weather and which, if any weather patterns were more favorable than others for finding trout in an active mood. Truthfully, I was hoping that he’d validate my observation that showed a preference for cold, clear weather patterns. But Arola didn’t go that far, he said, “I don’t really think that matters, the weather pattern might influence where or how we fish, but we catch fish when it’s cloudy just as often as we do when it’s clear. I think we may fish shallower on a cloudy day or deeper when it’s clear, but that’s about the only real difference.”

If you never tried it, you should, it is a hoot. For me, catching them is fun, and I like to eat them too. But the real thrill is getting the strike, one second nothing is happening and the next, there’s somebody shouting fish on!

So, with the lake trout season upon us, getting rigged and ready doesn’t sound that complicated, does it? Maybe this is your year to give a try.

Oil lamps have become popular for their romantic ambiance and relaxing glow. But not all fuel sources are equal! There are two main types of fuel used for oil lamps: lamp oil vs. kerosene lamp oil. So, which one should you choose? Well, there are a few important factors to consider.

This guide we’lli explore the differences between lamp oil and kerosene lamps. Also, how to use each fuel type and any safety considerations to keep in mind.

What Is Kerosene?

Kerosene is a low-viscosity liquid that comes from petroleum. It contains hydrocarbons and has a clear to pale yellow flame color.

People use it as fuel for aviation, home heating, and cooking. Besides, kerosene is often used as a starting fluid for jet engines.

Also, Kerosene is one paraffin oil, and we use Paraffin oil in many industries. For example, the pharmaceutical, food processing, and cosmetics industries.

Further, we can use it as a lubricant and a cleaning agent. Despite their many uses, kerosene lanterns can be flammable, and you should handle them carefully.

Kerosene Candle Flame

Red Kerosene

Red kerosene is an industrial lubricant. We use it to power machines like engines and generators. Since it’s tax-free, you can’t use red kerosene for road vehicles like trucks. The dye in red kerosene helps identify trucking companies trying to avoid taxes using this type of kerosene.

K-1-rated kerosenes, such as red kerosene, can power lamps. But, the foul smell from burning dye in red kerosene will damage or clog your lamp’s wick.

We could not find any scientific evidence to corroborate the claim. But, some say red-dyed kerosene is dangerous when burned in lamps. To err on caution, we tell you against using it.

K-1 Kerosene

K-1 kerosene is the most available grade. You can find it in most major retail stores or filling stations. Also, you can use this type of kerosene in space heaters and lamps.

An upside to K-1 kerosene is that it’s very cheap. Besides, you can use it outdoors (e.g., with a portable stove). The scent of sulfur and other impurities from burning K-1 kerosene is less noticeable.

A kerosene lamp

What Is Lamp Oil?

Lamp oil is a type of fuel that comes from crude oil. It contains a mixture of hydrocarbons, molecules containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

Unlike kerosene, lamp oil is odorless and has a clear appearance. Also, it is less refined than kerosene, so it contains higher levels of impurities, such as sulfur.

Additionally, it burns cleaner than kerosene, producing less soot and smoke. Finally, lamp oil leaks kerosene’s unpleasant smell, making it more pleasant to use indoors.

Alternative Types of Lamp Oil

Of course, you want to decrease the amount of sulfur and other impurities in the air. There are alternative types of lamp oil available on the market. These include:

Canola Oil

If you’re looking for a lamp oil substitute, look no further than rapeseed oil or canola oil. This semi-viscous liquid comes from the seeds of the rapeseed plant. Also, it burns much cleaner than kerosene.

In fact, it’s so clean-burning that it’s often used as a base oil for biodiesel production. It’s not quite as cheap as kerosene. But, it’s still a viable option to avoid using petroleum products in the home.

Canola oil

Castor Oil

Castor oil is a vegetable oil. People extract it from the seed of the castor plant (Ricinus communis). People have used the oil for centuries as a lubricant, fuel, and lighting oil.

Also, it contains triglycerides, which are molecules made up of three fatty acids. The unique structure gives castor oil its distinctive properties. For example, it is more viscous (thicker) than other oils and biodegrades more.

Castor oil produces a bright white light when burned in a lamp, making it an ideal choice for oil lamps.

Olive Oil

Olive oil comes from the fruit of the olive tree. It is renewable, odorless, non-toxic, and smokeless, making it a healthier option for indoor use. Also, it is much less likely to cause fires, making it a safer choice for home use, so people have used it for centuries as cooking oil, lamp oil, and medicine.

Olive oil

Fish Oil

Before people found out about kerosene and paraffin oils, they used whale oil for lamp fuels. Yet, whales are now endangered, so whale oil is scarce and not used.

Even though fish oil has some disadvantages, it is still a good option for lamp oil in some cases. The main advantages are that it is like whale oil and is still available in many places.

Also, it doesn’t burn as other oils do, making it difficult to see in low-light conditions. Additionally, fish oil can leave an unpleasant smell if used for too long. Also, it creates smoke if burned for extended periods.

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: What Sets Kerosene and Paraffin Oil Apart?

Odor

The smell is the first thing you should consider when picking a lamp’s fuel. If it gives off a rank byproduct, it’s not meant to be used inside.

While kerosene fumes can be dangerous and harmful, paraffin is better for indoor use. It doesn’t come with odor-inducing chemicals.

Burn Time/Length

Generally, paraffin will burn longer than kerosene because of its viscosity and purity.

Brightness

One of the main benefits kerosene has over lamp oil is that it burns much brighter. Although lamp oil may last longer, kerosene provides more light. Therefore, kerosene lamps are often used outdoors.

You can see them from further away and provide more light. Additionally, since they’re used outside, any fumes emitted aren’t as big of an issue.

Kerosene lamp with rays of light

Uses

Kerosene can power many types of industrial equipment. For example, you can use them for home generators, space heaters, and lamps. It’s popular because it works for so many purposes and is inexpensive. In contrast, paraffin lamp oil is only suitable for lamps.

Refining and distillation

Paraffin oils go through a more extensive distillation process. But kerosene goes through a less rigorous one.

Chemical differences

Paraffin is an alkane hydrocarbon with the formula CnH2n+2. But, Kerosene comes from petroleum oil, so it is a flammable hydrocarbon.

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: How Can I Maintain and Utilize My Oil Lamps?

Here are some tips on how to fill and use your lamps:

1. Unscrew the wick and collar from your lamp.
2. Fill your lamp with oil, making sure to follow all safety precautions.
3. Put the wick lamp back in and set it so that it’s above the wick holder—but not too much.
4. Light the flat wicks

Handmade Oil Lamps

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: How to Safely Fuel My Oil Lamp?

Always be sure to use the proper fuel for your oil lamp. Also, never use dangerous materials like mineral oil, rubbing alcohol, or pure gasoline. If these substances burn, they release harmful vapors and aromatics, which can cause serious respiratory illnesses.

Also, improper use of fuel can lead to fire or explosion. You should never fill your oil reservoir with ignitable substances, such as acetone, propane, turpentine, or household cleaners.

Lamp Oil vs. Kerosene: How to Dispose of Lamp Oil?

Now the last thing to consider is how to dispose of the fuel. Here are some tips to keep in mind:

Giving it to a Local Hazardous Waste Collection Site

For safe disposal, you can take your lamp oil to a local hazardous waste collection site. This way, they will recycle it instead of adding it to the landfill.

Also, some cities offer oil exchange programs. You can bring your used lamp oil and swap it for a new container.

Give It to Your Local Fire or Gas Station

You can check with your local fire or gas station to see if they accept used lamp oil. Most often, they are willing to take it and burn it off. Sometimes, you can even get a few cents back in exchange.

Donate It to a Recycling Company

You can search online for a local recycling company and drop off your used lamp oil. They will take it, filter it to remove any impurities, and re-use it in their products or machinery. Not only will you be helping the environment, but you can also get a tax incentive for donating it.

A Recycling Company

Donate It to Your Local Charity or Community Center

Sometimes you don’t have a recycling company nearby. So you can contact your local charity or community center to see if they will accept used lamp oil. Many of these organizations are always looking for donations, so it’s a great way to help and make an impact.

Give It to a Friend or Loved One

If you know someone who still uses oil lamps, consider giving them your used fuel. They appreciate the gesture. Also, a great way to reduce waste and keep resources out of landfills.

Use Your Leftover Lamp Oil Again

Finally, you can always use your leftover lamp oil again. Make sure to filter it first and follow all necessary safety precautions.

Burning kerosene lamp

FAQs

Can oil lamps be bad for my health?

Oil lamps are bad for your health if you don’t use the proper fuel. Always be sure to follow safety precautions. Also, never use flammable or hazardous materials for fuel.

For an oil lamp, what is the best type of oil I can use?

Olive oil is the best for an oil lamp. It has a high flash point and is non-toxic, making it a safe choice for indoor use.

Is it safe to use oil lamps inside my home?

They can be safely indoors if you use the right fuel and follow all safety precautions.

Heating oil vs. kerosene: which one is best for your furnace?

Heating oil is best for your furnace. It has a higher flash point than kerosene, which makes it safer and more efficient. Also, heating oil burns cleaner than kerosene and produces fewer byproducts.

Summary

Phew! You’ve mastered the ins and outs of oil lamps. Now you know how to fuel and dispose of your lamp. Always stay safe by following safety guidelines and using the proper fuel for your lamp.

We hope this article has been helpful, and you can now use your oil lamp with ease and enjoy the warmth and light it provides.