Fooling waterfowl consistently means adapting to the variables that present themselves both in the field and on the water. Ultimately, how convincing your decoy spread is will either make or break a hunt. Here, we outline four decoy spreads, each proven to dupe even the wariest flocks under most conditions.

THE CROP CIRCLE

This spread is effective for hunting ducks in a harvested agricultural field. Unlike many field decoys setups, the Crop Circle draws ducks in extremely well even with light and variable winds.

Ducks and geese tend to decoy into the wind, but harvested grain fields are so attractive that ducks might drop from the sky from any direction. This spread keeps ducks out in front where shooting them is easiest.

Puddle ducks that drop into an agricultural field that already has ducks on it will land behind those ducks rather than in front of them. They also like to land near individuals and small groups that have moved away from the main flock. Anyone who has had a floating decoy drift off during a water hunt has likely noticed this behavior, and it also occurs in fields.

The decoys are set in a circle with a small flock or an individual decoy in the center. No matter which way the wind is blowing, ducks will either head for the upwind, inside edge of the circle of decoys to land at the tails or they’ll target the small flock (or single) in the center. A narrow gap in the downwind side of the circle entices ducks to enter the circle at that location.

Mallards are usually the mainstay species for a field hunt. However, setting small flocks of other ducks, such as gadwalls and pintails, upwind on the hunter’s shooting shoulder side, can entice these other ducks to decoy while saving the best shooting angle on the shooter’s strong side for decoying mallards.

If Canada geese are in the area, setting a small group of goose decoys away from the main circle of duck decoys and on the side opposite the secondary duck decoys can provide a bonus opportunity.

THE FISHHOOK

One of the most reliable decoy setups on land or water is the Fishhook, also known as a “J Spread.” The Fishhook works best when the wind is angling over the shooter’s shoulder or parallel to the bank. The shank of the fishhook extends downwind.

Canada geese are the primary targets with this setup. If secondary species (i.e., white-fronted or snow geese) are in the area, setting small groups of decoys for them upwind, outside and away from the point of the hook, might entice them to drop in.

It’s important to set this spread well away from any tall cover, including trees, cane, cattails and fencerows. Canada geese might circle a spread several times before taking a long-approach flight path as they decoy from downwind. They’ll shy away from any tall object they have to pass over while circling and might balk if any tall cover is near the shank of the hook during their final approach. Even a single bush can cause them to change their minds and flare away.

The blind should be at the apex of the hook bend. Geese will land anywhere along the inside of the bend, so being situated for shooting at its center provides the best opportunity no matter the approach angle.

THE GAPPED FISHHOOK

This spread is best for hunting diving ducks that have been hunted hard and are blind wary. The Gapped Fishhook is set up so the long shank of the hook runs away from the boat or bank blind positioned at the hook’s point.

Diving ducks are seemingly hypnotized by the long line of decoys leading to the hook bend. However, the line must be perfectly straight, with decoys spaced evenly 4 or 5 feet apart. Using gang rigs, also called longline or trotline rigs, helps to maintain the straight line and keeps decoys spaced evenly.

The line can be 100 yards or longer, extending far downwind. Passing ducks locate the end of the line and fly along it until they reach the bend in the hook, where they decoy to the head of the decoys. However, if there is any gap or division in an otherwise straight line of decoys, decoying divers might land in the gap(s) and out of gun range.

Diving ducks tend to decoy to the head of a rig because of the way they feed. After swimming submerged and feeding on the bottom, birds at the rear of the flock will surface and leapfrog over ducks feeding in front of them because the easiest-to-find food has been eaten.

A gap should be left at the end of the straight shank just before the hook bend. Diving ducks can decoy very close to the water, and the gap keeps the hunter from shooting his decoys. Another flock of diving ducks should be set to attract secondary birds.

For early-season spreads, ring-necked duck decoys can serve for the main body and scaup for the secondary species, but species composition should match the ducks seen in the area. The secondary species decoys are set with the hook point facing outward from the blind, leaving a gap between the two bodies of decoys.

This leaves another open area where you don’t have to worry about shot striking the decoys. Ducks will attempt to land at either gap or at the head of either body of decoys, depending upon the species.

THE DOUBLE V

The Double V spread is a great water setup for puddle ducks, and it can attract primary and secondary species as well as oddball ducks. The first V is set slightly upwind, with the wind blowing parallel to the bank. The second V of decoys is set 10 to 20 yards behind or downwind of the first V. In November, most Southern waterfowl hunters are served well by using mallards and green-winged teal decoys to fill out these two Vs.

Setting a single teal and a single mallard decoy in the gap between the two Vs gives singles and small flocks a landing target. Puddle ducks usually land behind the decoys, rather than in front of them like divers do. This setup works well when puddle ducks are drawn to the inside angular bends of the Vs or to the single decoys in the gap(s) between them.

Other secondary decoys can be set near the blind in the gap between the two Vs of primary decoys. These can include black ducks, pintails, gadwalls or confidence decoys like coots, depending upon the various species that are in the area. Even diving ducks may be attracted to decoys set in this location. The idea is to give them a landing target within the large Vs that constitute the main attraction.

FRESHEN UP YOUR SPREAD

Time for a decoy upgrade? Check out these four fakes.

Flambeau Gunning Series Canvasback decoys pair the round-bottom design of old-time, hand-carved decoys with a modern, skeg-style keel for a lifelike ride under any water conditions, even in the shallow waters of flooded farm fields. The plastic outer shell is quiet, and the interior is foam-filled for durability. The patented UVision finish reflects the real ultraviolet plumage signature that ducks see. ($139.99/six; flambeauoutdoors.com)

Mojo’s Elite Series Floater decoys solve the problems associated with setting spinning-wing decoys on stakes by replacing the stakes with easy-to-install floating plastic bases. Each decoy includes a remote control. The float has a removable 11-inch bar with a 14-ounce weight that stabilizes it in rough conditions. Available in mallard, bluebill and redhead drakes. ($139.99; mojooutdoors.com)

Tanglefree’s 60 Pack of Lesser Canada Skinny silhouette decoys contains 40 upright, 10 walker and 10 feeder geese for customizable, ultra-realistic spreads in a number of scenarios. All 5-dozen decoys feature flocked heads for improved realism. A Flight Series decoy bag in Optifade Marsh camouflage is included for easily transporting the lightweight dekes to and from the X. ($434.99; tanglefree.com)

www.remiwarren.com

In our opinion there are few things as inspiring as the stories of those willing to take the path less traveled. The history books are full of examples of explorers, prospectors, pioneers, and mountain men that chose to lead a different life. But in a modern world increasingly living a digital reality, and many of us neck deep in the rat race, these stories are becoming less and less common. The outdoors industry, by nature, attracts a relatively high proportion of men and women that have charted a less than common course through life. One that doesn’t necessarily follow today’s conventional definition of “normal”. But then there are those that take this to a whole new level, that somehow manage to keep one foot in the digital age, while truly blazing trails across a variety of mediums with an incurable desire to push their limits and question what’s possible. They may use modern technology to tell their stories in print, film or online but their spirit is as “pioneering” as that of the first human’s to cross the Bering Land Bridge. These outliers live on the fringes of their industries, unwilling to accept the status quo, and coast through their day to day lives.

Remi Warren is without question one of these outliers. From guiding and outfitting hunters in the mountains of the West to print, photography, TV and film projects, Remi has amassed a resume that most people would dream of. All before the age of 30.

Well known for his role in the award winning Solo Hunter TV show, his latest project Apex Predator, is not to be missed. One part Animal Planet, one part hunting show and one part human performance experiment it is without question one of the most unique concepts to hit ANY media scene in recent memory. We caught up with Remi in one of his rare down times between hunts and his various projects, so read on for one of the more inspiring interviews we’ve published to date. We cover everything from filming, to New Zealand, and hunting like a wolf so this installment of Blazing Trail is about as eclectic as it gets. Enjoy! Remi, you’ve had and continue to have a diversified career in hunting and outdoors media: guide, outfitter, writer, TV personality and now producer of your own show Apex Predator. How did it all start?

I really just started out guiding. Outdoor, TV and all this stuff was something that I always wanted to do and my thought starting out was I’d get into it by guiding. After high school I went up to Montana where I’d grown up hunting with my grandpa and took the Spring and Summer semesters off in college. So I had about six months to guide and work and I really had no plan; I just packed up my truck and headed to Montana. I figured if I had no other choice but to figure it out, I’d figure it out. I was there hunting a lot and didn’t have a job and kind of living in a tent, and because I was hunting so much, I ran into a guide who was working in the same area.

I was actually stalking a deer and these guys kind of messed up my stalk so I talked with them for a little bit and the next day I was on this group of elk in a completely different area and some guys came up behind me but I was way in front of them, so I’d kind of “claimed” the herd in terms of hunting etiquette. They said hey, didn’t we see you yesterday? I said yeah. And then they said wait, were you here two days ago? I again said yeah. So three days in a row I was in the same place as these guys and the guide asks if I was interested in talking to the outfitter about working for them. So I agreed to talk to the outfitter and the outfitter says hey instead of working against me, do you want to work for me? And that’s how I got started guiding!

That sure worked out in your favour!

Yeah, exactly. But when you’re out there, when you give yourself no other option and trust that you’re going to figure it out things will work out, that’s my philosophy. On the writing side of things, I’ve always enjoyed writing so I honestly just started writing. I worked for a small publication in Montana for a while called Real Hunting. It’s no longer around but I got hooked up with them, by again running into the owner out in the hills. I was guiding and I used to keep this photo album, both of the stuff I’d shot and scenery and client photos as well, in my truck for when I pick up clients to give them something to thumb through and get excited about.

So I was just talking to this guy and he asked me some questions and so I showed him this photo album and he was impressed with the photos. I mentioned that I did some writing and that was pretty much it. I started working with them but quickly kind of ended up being the main editor and did essentially everything for the magazine from graphic design to laying out stories to writing about half the content. That probably gave me years worth of magazine experience in a pretty short period of time. It was a lot of hard work and not a lot of pay but it was worth it because I was building a resume and by that point, I was 22 years old and had a repertoire of running a magazine and hundreds of articles and stuff that nobody else my age had. I really just dove headfirst into the industry, but my philosophy is just work hard and don’t ask for anything and that’s worked so far.

A lot of people ask what’s the easiest way to have a hunting TV show and I used to absolutely hate that question because I don’t know the easiest way. I did it my way and my way wasn’t easy! The easy way usually doesn’t get you where you’re going or where you’re wanting to go. Unfortunately, I think a lot of people see all the shows and see how affordable filming equipment is and think it is easy but it’s obviously not. But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t just dive in and bank on the fact that you’ll adapt and figure it out if that’s what you really want to do.

Yeah. Exactly. I think that’s my big thing, if you commit to doing it, you’re going to do it. It’s not that hard but it’s really hard for people to commit to something that’s scary or unknown. Nobody is going to give you anything, you’ve just got to realize that and go and work hard. Don’t ask for anything and prove that you can do it and people will start giving you what you need. For me, that’s how it worked out. It involves a lot of work for not much initially but for me, I didn’t care. I was doing what I loved. And that’s why I was a guide and then outfitter so I could make my own living and not have to rely on something else working out.

So from running that publication or doing the bulk of the work for that publication, when did you actually make the jump into your other projects? Obviously you now have the outfitting business and then on the writing side you write for Western Elk Hunter and more recently you branched into Solo Hunter and now Apex Predator. We’d probably need the entire interview to tell the story behind all of that, but what’s the brief timeline?

I was just finishing up college and it ended up that the guy who bought the outfitting business from my grandpa back in 1980 called me up as he knew that I was looking to stop guiding for another outfitter, that I wanted to go out on my own. I was planning on actually trying to buy out the guy that I worked for but one of the other outfitters in the area called me up and said I’ll sell you my business for what I bought it for in 1980. That sounded pretty good so it ended up that in the year I graduated college I bought the outfitting business and getting my own Forest Service permit, etc. for the area. I was about 22 at the time and so I’d been guiding, now had my own outfit and then at the same time, I was really working hard on the magazine in the off season. The magazine was pretty much what I did for the bulk of the off season and then in the Fall I guided. So this all led into just buying some cameras and I honestly just started filming my hunts. I’ve actually filmed my hunts since I was probably 15 years old, so I filmed my own hunts, I filmed clients’ hunts and I filmed pretty much everything I could, I just loved filming things. I just filmed and filmed and filmed for years. I wasn’t even sure I was ever going to do anything with the footage but I saw it more as practice. One day I wanted to have a TV show so, in my mind, I was just practising for that day. I couldn’t even tell you how many hours of footage I had but it was a lot!

Then one day, I saw something online, I don’t even know where it was, probably on YouTube, called Solo Hunters. By this point I rarely if ever watched TV so it was the first I’d heard of it and I thought it was a really cool show concept. So I called them up and told them I had a lot of footage and listed off some of the better hunts and footage that I’d taken. The guy that owned and ran the show ended up living not very far from where I live. We were about four miles apart!

I assume you mean Tim Burnett?

Yep. So he suggested that we meet up and he asked if I really had all the footage I said I did. I told him of course I did so he asked me to bring it to his office one day and when I did he was like holy smokes! He was looking for some additional content at the time and I was literally thrown into the show. But I’d filmed for no other purpose other than the practice film. I wasn’t trying to make an “audition” tape or anything like that. Obviously the footage wasn’t as good as when I now go out with the intent of filming for Solo Hunters, I was just filming for YouTube clips really. But we used it for the show and I kept filming and kept pushing myself to make it better and better and over time, it kind of morphed into the Solo Hunter episodes that you see today.

Ok, let’s jump into your most recent project: Apex Predator. For the record, what an awesome show, really such a cool concept. For our readers that haven’t seen it the wolf pack episode is literally must watch TV for the outdoorsman or woman.

Thank you very much. It’s a tactic that my brother and I wondered about for a while now. And as you saw in that episode, it definitely works. It’s not for everyone obviously but goes to show that humans are pretty crazy hunters in their own respects. The human body is capable of a lot more than we give it credit for most of the time. We just don’t realize it when we’re stuck in our own little worlds. But when you go out there and try something a little bit different, something that maybe isn’t mainstream or something people think about as a valid technique and it turns out to be successful that’s pretty cool. Especially when it’s modelled after a highly adapted and successful predator that we as humans assume we can’t compete with. If you look at some of the anthropological data that’s emerged from the barefoot running movement in the past few years, the prevailing theory is that’s how we initially hunted, by running animals down, literally to the point of exhaustion. Combined with our brains, our physical attributes make for a pretty lethal combo.

Yeah, exactly. That’s the thing too. We can run a lot smarter. Elk can run fast but we can run smart. So in that particular episode it worked because the elk ran down below the road for a few miles before cutting back uphill to use their planned escape route. We instead ran up to the road and used the road to cut across and headed them off, we ran a fraction of what it did and exerted half the energy by just thinking a little bit.

So what was the inspiration behind Apex Predator?

The show is inspired by nature and my fascination with the natural world, plain and simple. I was out hunting in an area where I hunt all the time and I was walking up the ridge and noticed some wolf tracks. It’s a certain route that I follow and have figured out over the years that it was the best way to approach this one great elk spot due to how the wind typically behaved, the terrain, the cover, and everything else. So I noticed on this one particular day in the snow, that there are wolf tracks and the wolf tracks are following the exact same route that I am, literally to the tee and it’s not the most natural or easy route. It’s not like following a corridor, it’s following a ridge at then at one point it ducks off the ridge and goes into this thicket of trees and then it comes back up and then drops back down into this other valley and it comes back up to this other meadow. So I stop and I think about it and that wolf knows exactly what I know. It’s amazing! We were both hunting these elk the exact same way!

And I think a lot of us wonder am I hunting this animal right? So when you’re out there and have this sort of scenario, here is an animal that hunts day in, day out and they do they’re doing the exact same thing that I’m doing? I must be doing something right! It knows what I know and vice versa and that was a pretty cool experience. In another instance, actually the first time I saw a live wolf, I was out elk hunting with my bow and I this wolf pops up right in front of me, and this is before we ever really saw them in our area, so I was pretty excited about it. It was only about 40 – 50 yards away so I got my camera out and filmed it a little bit and then got back to hunting. I was hunting this pretty big elk and drew up back around the ridge I knew they were on and started to put a stalk in on this herd of elk. But before I get close – I’m about one ridge away – the wolf runs up from the bottom at the side and starts chasing them. At this point I figure well, my stalk’s already over, so I might as well try to cut them off as I had a feeling I knew where they were going.

With the wolf chasing them the elk headed up and I knew the better route so I started sprinting up the hill. I could see them most of the way. Their tongues were hanging out. It was a hot day. I was drinking water out of my hydration bladder as I was running and they were just beat and I ran right up and stood behind a big ponderosa tree and these elk were walking by pretty much close enough to touch. I snapped a few pictures with my camera and the bulls never came out. A couple of smaller bulls did but the bigger bulls didn’t and my assumption was that their antlers were so heavy that they had to turn and cut away from the herd before the younger bulls and cows did which I later saw (the bulls) down the ridge.

But it was eye opening! It showed that it’s actually possible to keep up with elk in steep terrain. I’d always heard growing up, “well if an elk runs away, they’ll go for ten miles.” And that’s just not necessarily true. But those things you grow up with are in your head and I was just like, wow. From that moment everything I’d ever known about hunting was in question. I decided I just needed to experience it for myself and find out what is true and what’s not. That was a real eye-opener. I looked at it as, that’s how the wolf would hunt and for us to be able to do that same thing, that’s pretty crazy. I thought what other animal could we emulate or learn from? So those ideas had been in my mind for a long time and I thought about the show for a really long time and thought about the other animals out there that we as humans might have similarities to or are so specialized in one task or skill that we could learn from? Or maybe we can’t do it all but it’s something that we need to learn and so that’s where Apex Predator came from. Awesome! That was going to be one of my questions: how did you go about picking the various species that you ended up deciding on for each episode. It’s such an interesting mix and a truly unique concept. Even if someone isn’t that into hunting, there is some very cool stuff in the series. For instance, the free diving training you went through was incredible. To be able to learn to hold your breath that long is impressive and most people would say there is no feasible way the human body can do that. But as you found out, that’s just not true.

Yeah. Exactly. I think almost everyone can do exactly what I did. One of the things I wanted to do with the show was show others that we can do a lot more than we think. I’m not necessarily anyone special. I’m in good shape and I have certain genetic capabilities and qualities and accumulate a lot of training time because I’ve spent so much time in the field, I’d say the better part of my adult life. So I have a few things stacked in my favour but when it comes to stuff like holding the breath, I have no experience and any single person out there can do exactly what I did in that episode.

All of our bodies are designed naturally to handle much longer under water than we think. It’s just whether you can get past the mental threshold or barrier. So I think that’s one of those things I would have never understood. I would have heard about it and probably thought it was cool but until I tried it I wouldn’t have really understood it. I learn through experience. I’m not stubborn but I don’t necessarily take things entirely at face value. I try to take good advice when it’s given but I also need to learn things on my own sometimes and this is one of those things. For me it’s always been better to learn through experience and I think by showing the experience through the show, people will get a better appreciation for what is in fact possible and gain a better understanding of the concepts. I love to learn new things and so any time I can learn something new myself or share some kind of learning, I think that’s pretty awesome.

That is the power of video. Our publication obviously is written content only and for the most part, long form written content which has been well received but ultimately, when people SEE it, like you said, it’s a whole other game. It’s one of the most unique “hunting” shows – it’s a biological case study.

Exactly! A human biology case study through the lens of our abilities as hunters. To me that is the human story and a lot of people don’t grasp that. To hunters that’s not necessarily news. I think a lot of hunters probably don’t have as deep of an appreciation for that aspect of hunting but, in particular, the non hunters or of course the anti-hunters don’t see it as a natural human activity which of course is the farthest thing from the truth.

Yeah, and that’s another reason I wanted to do it. It opens it up to a broader spectrum of people and it’s not that I’m trying to cater to people who don’t hunt, but I’m just showing people who don’t hunt and people who do hunt that we’re not that much different from many of the animals out there. To be honest, I learned a lot from the animals we covered in the show and I use techniques that we (humans) learned from animals a long time ago, every day. Whether you’re sitting in a tree stand hunting deer or crouching in a ground blind, these are tactics adopted from animals.

Or in the buffalo episode, where we looked at the Plains Indians and how they figured out the relationship between the wolves and the bison. With humans, if the bison run they’re safe, as at that time our weapons were pretty primitive and we needed to get close. But with the wolves, they kill by chasing. A wolf would not attack a standing bison because they just aren’t strong enough. So they need to get them to panic and run and then they can catch them. So the bison wouldn’t run where possible when wolves approached but would when a bipedal human did. So the Plains Indians developed a technique, later made famous in a classic Western painting, where they would wear wolf skins and crawl within shooting distance of the bison herd. And again, as we show in the episode, it’s a tactic that works.

It just speaks to the power of the adaptive human mind and body. I think that’s one of the things you covered really well in Apex Predator, the mental aspects of it. The ability to do it physically still boils down to the mental aptitude and willingness to just go out and try it.

Absolutely, you have to be willing to try new things and fail sometimes if you want to learn. You seem to have a definite affinity for the wolf and I couldn’t agree more, for me the wolf is one of the most fascinating animals on the planet. But the wolf issue is very different in Canada than it is in the US given the history of their near eradication and then the ill-planned re-introduction. What is your take on the wolf situation in the West? You guide and outfit in Montana and there are many people that call the West home who believe that the whole “smoke a pack a day” approach is the most appropriate response. I’m going to go out on a limb and guess that you don’t agree with that?

As hunters, we get all up in tiffs about the anti hunters and non hunters being so emotional but then on the wolf issue the same emotional reaction is happening with hunters as well. When we go that route, we lose all of our bargaining power, all of our credibility. We really lose everything that we stand for and that really bugs me because if we’re going to stick to a model (the North American Wildlife Model), then we need to stick to that model.

Sometimes that model doesn’t necessarily go with what we personally and emotionally feel. But if we start managing animals based on emotions and not science, then what are we doing? We’re no different than everybody that’s against hunting because the only argument they have is an emotional one. We can’t “cherry pick” our stance and handle things emotionally for one situation and then when it’s in our favour, fall back on the science and conservation based approach and say this is what we stand for. I think we stay a lot more credible if we just pick our management strategy and go with it. So I think the predators need to be managed, and I think the non-predators need to be managed but we need to stay aligned with the model we know is the right model and not get caught up in these emotional arguments. It really hurts our cause.

I couldn’t agree more. Eradication is no different than outright protection. Those are logically identical mindsets and emotionally identical mindsets, and as hunters our number one counterpoint to the anti-hunting groups is the scientific, rational, unemotional benefits of hunting, which we know to be irrefutable. There is no debate on the balance of science and logic, we win. We win every time. But when we get drawn into these emotional battles, as you said, it ruins our credibility.

Yeah, exactly. When did you start outfitting in New Zealand?

I started going over there… I don’t even know now… about five years ago probably.

So, being a guy who has outfitted in New Zealand now for a number of years, for somebody who is looking at New Zealand as maybe their first international hunt because it is quite a popular spot it seems these days, do you think DIY is a realistic way to go for your first hunt, or do you think that’s biting off a little more than they can chew?

It’s definitely biting off more than they can chew and that’s just my honest opinion. But it does depend where you’re from and what your experience is. I’m just going to be blunt about it. If all you’ve ever hunted is deer from a tree stand, you’re not ready. You won’t handle it and you’ll probably die. It’s serious stuff in NZ.

Let’s say we’re talking about a Rocky Mountain US or an Alberta, BC, or Alaska resident who’s hunted sheep, goats or high country elk and mule deer?

I think that if you have a lot of mountain goat and sheep hunting experience, you’ll be fine. I know a lot of guys who have a lot of experience but it’s a lot harder to hunt than anywhere else I’ve ever hunted, physically, and I think the problem is there are shortcuts with the helicopters. So you see all these people, say on TV or in magazines, who probably shouldn’t be in those kinds of mountains shooting animals and you assume that it’s easy. And the assumption that it’s easy is what gets people in trouble.

I think if you have experience you’d be fine but if you don’t have that true mountain hunting experience, on a level of skill from one to ten, NZ is a ten! It depends where you go too. I hunt areas that are really hard to hunt and it’s where I like to hunt but it’s dangerous and it’s hard but those are the areas that I like. The mountains are steep and they’re big and sometimes the weather can be pretty bad with floods and even simple access is tough. If you don’t have experience it’s not for you – you probably shouldn’t try it on your own – but if you’ve been hunting a lot and if you’re smart and you realize that it is going to be difficult and you come prepared, then it shouldn’t be a problem. It’s really on an individual basis so I can’t really say one way or the other but I will say if you don’t have any true mountain hunting experience, it’s probably not a place to start off with or, it wouldn’t be something that I’d go out and do by myself. Great input. Let’s move on to some filming questions. There a lot of people these days really into self-filming and documenting their hunts and adventures, whether it’s with a GoPro or other products, but it’s not as easy as it looks. What are some tips, say three to five tips for people that want to go out and film their hunt and get more experience with that side of things?

The most important thing is get a camera you’re not afraid of thrashing. Everybody always asks about the most expensive camera. My feeling is, only get a camera that you’re comfortable having out 100% of the time. If it’s in your pack, you aren’t going to use it. I’ve gone through that – it needs to be accessible. Some people worry it’s an expensive camera and just keep it in their pack. That’s the worst place. If you have a camera and you keep it in your pack, you might as well leave it at home. So have your camera at ready, that’s number one. The most important thing is you can’t share anything you don’t film. Don’t forget to hit the record button, I’ve done that I don’t know how many times. Just be familiar with your gear because a lot of times, things happen in the moment. Something will always go wrong at crunch time like a battery dying. If you’re really familiar with your camera and use it all the time, you’ll know all the settings, every function. People just grab them and flip them open and know how to record and that’s it but things can go wrong. You should know how to quickly fix things not necessarily mechanically but operationally. Those are pretty much the main tips. Oh, and always bring extra batteries!

I think the ‘be familiar’ tip is really good one because. I’ve only taken my GoPro on a couple of hunts and you’re spot on, number one it was in my pack and I didn’t bother using it 90% of the time but then when I did take it out I wasn’t familiar enough with its functions to capture all the things I wanted to capture!

Exactly. A good way to look at it is take the camera out on as many non-hunting outings as possible. I would just go out and every time I shot my bow, I’d film because setting up a camera with a tripod fast, especially with bow hunting, is the hardest thing I’ve ever done in my life. So I’d practice the camera part (setting it up, getting it ready) outside of hunting situations.

I used to shoot a lot of big mule deer and since I started self-filming, I’ve shot maybe one or two big mule deer because it’s just that hard. I actually didn’t really rifle hunt very much until I started doing Solo Hunters because the challenge is now the filming. When you’re crawling in close and it’s difficult to do so the more you practise with it in a controlled environment you’ll learn the easy things that make it even easier.

Of course, makes sense. Every hunt you go on, film your friends. I’ll bet if I put all my videos that I had just on one timeline and let it play, it would probably play for a year straight without stopping.

Wow! That’s a lot of film.

I’ve had that much time behind the camera and just over the years, it’s just filming, filming and filming. Maybe not that much, that’s probably an exaggeration but I don’t even know how much footage I have or had or erased. Quite a bit but it feels like I’ve got so much footage I could never even comb through it all.

Exaggeration or not, the bottom line is the point you’re making is you have practised a lot. Non-stop, every chance you get. If that’s something you actually want to go after then get out there and practise.

Yep, exactly. Even on my off days, I’ll go film… I’ll just film some random thing. I’m on the road all the time but I meet up with a friend who is a photographer and we’ll go out and take pictures or videos of even non-hunting stuff. Just film whatever. Practise wherever you can.

I think that brings up a good point too. Hunting seasons are only so long and if you only film when you’re hunting then you’ll be figuring out the filming half the time if not 75-80% of the time as opposed to getting good footage or at least getting the practice in whether it’s fishing or hiking or trail running or climbing. Just get out there and do it.

The other thing too with filming is, the way I am, you have to have a goal. If your goal is to film a hunt, then that’s your goal. You pass up opportunities that are not going to be filmed. It has to be your number one priority, and it’s very hard for people to do that and so that’s another reason it’s so hard to capture great footage. They want to get into filming but then a big buck walks out and they shoot it. If you really want to get into filming, then that is your most important goal and that’s really hard to commit to but once you commit to it, then you get things on film. Great insight, OK last few questions. For someone going on their first international hunt, what would you say is the best bang for their buck? What’s the best mountain hunt out there outside of North America?

Definitely New Zealand. It’s just accessible and there is a lot of opportunity. If you’re English speaking it makes it nice. Compared to other places in the world, it doesn’t have the cultural troubles or political troubles. It’s got wild species, wild places. It’s a pretty cool place.

You’ve got a lot of good footage from there so it seems like a hell of a place to go and hunt if you’re into that style of hunting.

As always, let’s finish with some rapid fire questions. You’ve been to a lot of places – so you can answer this question in one of two ways – what’s your bucket list hunt or what’s one you have done and you would give anything to do again?

I want to hunt Stone sheep in BC and I want to hunt ibex in one of the “stans”.

What’s the toughest or most satisfying hunt you’ve been on?

The most satisfying for me is big mule deer with a bow. The challenge is a big part of it and for me it’s just one of those animals that I really get into. I think it’s pretty challenging to get a really big, high country mule deer with a bow. So that’s one of them for me for sure, and then I’d probably say tahr in New Zealand. I’ve got a lot of respect for those animals and that hunt. I like the country you find them in and it’s a truly fun hunt.

You’re known for being willing to eat just about anything. What’s the gnarliest game animal or species you’ve ever gone out on a limb and tried?

I’ve got to think about that. There is something and I always forget what it is. I was thinking about it the other day, I had something that was really bad. It wasn’t the coyote you ate on Meateater with Steven Rinella was it?

The coyote wasn’t bad while we were eating it but it’s not necessarily something I want to keep eating all the time. McDonald’s is probably the worst thing I’ve eaten in a long time. There is actually a lot of times that I’ve been on the road and pulled off and got something at a rest stop and thought, I would rather eat coyote.

The pink slime, Slim Jim type of stuff?

Yeah. Those processed, mystery meat products are just disgusting, I would definitely rather eat coyote than a lot of that stuff.

And last one, as a longstanding writer, what are some key book recommendations? These don’t have to be ‘how to’ books, they can just be really good historical accounts but what are some really good books that you have loved, or gifted that’s from the hunting or outdoor-adventure realm?

One of my all-time favourites is Peter Capstick’s Death in the Long Grass. I’ve probably read that book about a hundred times. I did it for every book report in school growing up. I’ve read all of his books and that made me want to go to Africa so when I turned 18, that’s what I did, I went to Africa. I just really like those kind of stories. When I was growing up, I read Cameron Hanes’ bowhunting books and was really into those as well. I really enjoyed his books and they really helped me formulate my plans for the kind of hunting I was into. I basically read his Bowhunting Trophy Blacktail book and was like, “I’m going black tail hunting!” He put some really great stuff in all his books. Those would be my top recommendations.

From the Editors:

Apex Predator is one of the most unique “hunting” shows to hit the air in a long time. Remi’s insatiable curiosity, and obvious respect for the animals he’s studying is rivaled only by his willingness to dive in and get dirty in his attempt to learn from and mimic some of the world’s top predators. If you have even a passing interest in animal biology and human potential, it is literally must watch TV.

To learn more about Remi and his various projects or to download episodes of Apex Predator go to either www.remiwarren.com or www.apexpredator.tv for episode listings and more info.

Alone Season 8

Alone is a History reality television show that airs in the United States. It chronicles the self-documented daily hardships of ten individuals (seven partnered teams in season 4) as they attempt to survive alone in the woods for as long as possible while only having a limited supply of survival gear. The participants are segregated from each other and all other people, with the exception of medical check-ins. They can “tap out” at any moment or be removed if a medical check-in is failed. The contender who lasts the longest receives $500,000. grand prize. Read on to get the entire Gear List for Alone.

Alone Season 8 Gear List

Listed below are all the items that are allowed on the show,

• 1 pair of high-leg hunting boots

• 1 pair waterproof Arctic winter boots

• 1 T-shirt

• 1 fleece/wool shirt

• 2 wool, fleece or cotton sweaters

• 6 pairs of wool socks

• 2 hats (brimmed, wool, fur, Arctic or baseball)

• 2 buffs or neck gaiter (no balaclavas)

• 1 shemagh OR scarf

• 4 pairs of gloves

• 2 pairs of underwear/briefs

• 1 insulated parka-style jacket

• 2 pairs of outdoor pants/bibs (can unzip into shorts)

• 1 pair of fully insulated or waterproof winter pants/bibs

• 1 waterproof un-insulated shell/Jacket

• 2 pairs of thermal underwear (long top and bottom)

• 1 pair of gaiters

• 1 leather belt (or synthetic equivalent)

• 1 toothbrush

• 1 pair of eyeglasses

• 1 personal photograph

Shelter

• 12×12 ground cloth/tarp

• 8-mm climbing rope – 10M

• 550 Paracord – 80m

• 3-mm cotton cord – 40m (non-waxed cord)

Bedding

• 1 multi-seasonal sleeping bag

• 1 bivi bag

• 1 sleeping pad

• 1 hammock

Cooking

• 1 large pot

• 1 steel frying pan

• 1 flint or Ferro rod set with standard-sized striker

• 1 enamel bowl for eating

• 1 spoon

• 1 canteen/water bottle

Hygiene

• 1 bar of soap

• 1 8-oz tube of toothpaste

• 1 face flannel

• 1 40-mm roll dental floss

• 1 small bottle of bio shower soap

• 1 shaving razor (and 1 blade)

• 1 towel (30” x 60”)

• 1 comb

Hunting

• 1 300-yd roll of a single-filament fishing line up to a max of 20 lbs weight test + 35 assorted barbless hooks (no bigger than size 7/0, no lures.)

• 1 Primitive Bow Recurve or longbow + 9x Arrows

• 1 small-gauge gill net

• 1 slingshot/catapult + 30 steel ball bearings + 1 replacement band

• 1 net foraging bag

• 2 lbs of 20 or 21-gauge trapping (snare) wire

• 3 lbs of one solid block of salt

Food (2 items max)

• 2 lbs of beef jerky (protein)

• 2 lbs of dried pulses/legumes/lentils mix (starch and carbs)

• 2 lbs of biltong (protein)

• 2 lbs of hardtack military biscuits (carbs/sugars)

• 2 lbs of chocolate (simple/complex sugars)

• 2 lbs of pemmican (traditional trail food made from fat and proteins)

• 2 lbs of GORP (raisins, chocolate, peanuts)

• 2 lbs of flour (starch/carbs)

• 2/3 lbs rice / 2/3 lb sugar / 2/3 lb of salt (all separated)

Tools

• 1 pocket knife

• 1 hunting knife (blade edge length no larger than 10”)

• 1 Leatherman multi-tool or similar

• 1 sharpening stone

• 1 roll of duct tape or 1 roll of electrical tape

• 1 small shovel

• 1 small sewing kit

• 1 carabiner

• 1 LED flashlight

• 1 pair of ice spikes (studded walking aids for icy conditions

• 1 scotch-eyed auger

• 1 adze

• 1 2-handed draw knife (blade no longer than 5 inches)

• 1 hatchet

• 1 saw (Blade no longer than 3 feet)

• 1 axe

Prohibited Items

• Fuel, lighters or matches

• Bug spray/mosquito repellant

• Sunscreen/chapstick

• Sunglasses or prescription transition lens eyeglasses

• Goggles

• Beauty products

• Map (detailed topographical)

• Compass

• Unapproved technology (anything with a battery or an engine, e.g. cell phones, computers, watches, etc.)

• Professional snares

• Firearms of any kind

• Ammunition

• Explosives or gunpowder

• Animal poison

• Professional fishing rods

• Fishing lures, flies, bait kits

• Fishing traps

• Food/beverage (except as explicitly listed above)

• Decoys

• Animal calls

• Tree stands

• Professional bows/crossbows

• Scopes of any kind

• Tents or shelters

• Stoves, pressure cookers or other cooking appliances

• Hydration packs

• Fire pits

• Electric or propane lanterns

• Inflatable boats

• Filtration, purification devices, iodine tablets

• Coolers or food storage boxes (except optional bear canister)

• Next Article ››

You could be anxiously anticipating the Virginia Deer Season in 2024 if you like hunting or being outside. It’s important to keep up with the most recent rules and information for this year’s hunting season since there are many different hunting opportunities and locales. We will provide an overview of the Virginia Deer Season for 2024 on this page, including key dates, bag restrictions, rules, and any exceptions or extra hunting possibilities. So let’s get started with everything you need to know for a productive and fun deer hunting season in Virginia. So get your gear, get ready to explore the woods, and let’s get started!

Virginia Deer Season 2024

Virginia’s deer hunting season is a favorite time of year for hunters of all ages and abilities. Early November through the end of December marks the start of the hunting season. The longest season is the archery one, lasting from September through January. There are rules requiring hunters to wear blaze orange apparel during the gun season and have a valid hunting license and deer tag, and bag limits vary based on the kind of hunting.

Archery Season

Archery SeasonDatesAllowed Deer Early Archery SeasonOctober 1 – November 18Either sex Late Archery SeasonsDecember 4 – January 7Either sex December 1 – January 7 December 18 – January 7 Urban Archery Deer SeasonsSeptember 3 – September 30Antlerless only Urban Archery Deer SeasonsJanuary 8 – March 26, 2024Antlerless only NOVA Late Archery SeasonMarch 27 – April 30, 2024Antlerless only

Muzzleloader Season

Muzzleloader Deer Season NameDatesEither-sex Deer Hunting Days Early Muzzleloader SeasonNovember 5 through November 18November 5 through November 18 Late Muzzleloader Season (East)December 17 through January 7December 17 through January 7 January 2 through January 7 7-Jan Late Muzzleloader Season (West)December 17 through January 7December 17 through January 7 January 2 through January 7 7-Jan

Firearms Deer Seasons

Firearms Deer SeasonDates Firearms Deer SeasonsNov. 19 – Dec. 3 Nov. 19 – Dec. 3 Nov. 26, Dec. 2-3 Nov. 19 – Jan. 7 (full season) Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Jan. 2 – Jan. 7 Nov. 26, Nov. 28 – Dec. 3 Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Dec. 5 – Dec. 17 Oct. 8, 15, Nov. 18 – Nov. 30 Nov. 19 – Dec. 17 Nov. 19 – Dec. 17 (full season) Nov. 26, Dec. 3, Dec. 10 – Jan. 7 Nov. 19 – Dec. 3 Early and Late Antlerless Only Firearms Deer SeasonsEarly: September 3 through September 30 Late: January 8, 2024 through March 26, 2024

Note: You may check the dwr.virginia.gov website for the season regions for the aforementioned hunting dates.

VA Deer Bag Limits

LocationDaily Bag LimitLicense Year Bag LimitAntlered Deer LimitAntlerless Deer LimitOther Limitations East of Blue Ridge (except on National Forest lands in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties)263At least 3On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, and Prince William counties and in all cities and towns east of the Blue Ridge except in the cities of Chesapeake, Suffolk, and Virginia BeachUnlimitedNo more than 3 antlered deer in a license year-On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. West of Blue Ridge and on National Forest lands in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties252At least 3On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. All cities and towns west of the Blue RidgeUnlimitedMaximum 2 antlered deer in a license year-On National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, or Rockbridge County-23 with at least 1 buck having 4 antler points, one inch or longer, on one side of the antlersOn National Forest areas and Department-owned and -managed lands, no more than 1 deer each day. Statewide Elk Hunting1 elk per day-

VA Deer Licenses

License TypeAgeFees Resident Sportsman’s License16 and older$100.00 Resident Youth Combination Hunting License12 to 15$16.00 Resident Hunting License* 1-year license16 and older$23.00 2-year license16 and older$44.00 3-year license16 and older$65.00 4-year license16 and older$86.00 Resident Senior Citizen Hunting License$9.00 Resident County or City Hunting License16 and older$16.00 Nonresident Youth Combination Hunting LicenseUnder age 16$31.00 Additional Requirements (may be required with a resident hunting license) Resident Deer License$23.00 Resident Junior Deer License12 to 15$8.50 Nonresident Deer License Valid July 1 through June 30 Age 16 and older$86.00 Age 12 to 15$16.00 Under age 12$13.00

Virginia requires a hunting license and a deer/turkey license from July 1 to June 30 to hunt deer. National Forest, State Forest Use, and Bonus Deer Permits may also be needed.

• Virginia hunters need a hunting and archery license to shoot deer with bows. Deer/turkey licenses, National Forest Permits, State Forest Use Permits, and Bonus Deer Permits may be needed.

• Hunting and muzzleloading licenses are needed to hunt deer in Virginia during muzzleloader season. Deer/turkey licenses, National Forest Permits, State Forest Use Permits, and Bonus Deer Permits may be needed. Archery or muzzleloading licenses are not needed for firearms deer season archery or muzzleloading hunting.

Hunting Regulation

• Deer tags indicate the hunted species. Both antlered and antlerless deer may use either-sex deer tags, but only antlerless deer can utilize antlerless-only tags.

• The animal must be marked with an either-sex deer tag and have antlers visible above the hairline to be classified as an antlered deer.

• Antlerless deer may only be hunted on either-sex days in the archery, muzzleloading, and firearms seasons, save for children and apprentice hunters. They do button bucks and shed-antlered bucks. Tags for antlerless deer are either either-sex or antlerless-only. Antlerless deer include antlered deer that have lost their antlers or have antlers below the hairline.

• Virginia resident and nonresident hunting permits are good for one year from purchase, except those valid from July 1 to June 30. These include the Virginia migrating waterfowl conservation stamp, bear, deer/turkey, and package licenses. Lifetime and two-year apprentice hunting permits are available. The Virginia Wildlife website lists hunter education requirements. Hunting licenses and permits cannot be altered, changed, borrowed, or lent.

• Deer hunting east of the Blue Ridge has a two-per-day and six-per-license-year bag limit. Unless otherwise stated, the six-deer quota must include at least three antlerless deer and no more than three antlered deer. Arlington, Fairfax, Loudoun, and Prince William counties and all cities and towns east of the Blue Ridge save Chesapeake, Suffolk, and Virginia Beach have no deer bag restriction. A license year may only kill three-antlered deer. One deer per day is allowed on National Forest and Department-owned and managed properties east of the Blue Ridge. Before hunting, no bag limits and other rules to be safe and legal.

• A license year limits the number of antlered bucks killed in Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, and Rockbridge counties. In these counties, a hunter must kill two antlered bucks with at least four one-inch antler points on one side.

• Antlered deer must have at least four one-inch antler points on one side to be lawfully taken in the Flippo-Gentry WMA and Featherfin WMA. These kiosks explain APR bounds.

• Bonus Deer Permits last year. Only antlerless deer may utilize these licenses on private and permitted public properties. Bonus Deer Permits are applicable only on authorized either-sex deer hunting days for all archery (including urban archery), muzzleloader, and firearm deer seasons (including early and late antlerless-only). These licenses let hunters capture more antlerless deer without exceeding the daily bag limit. Bonus Deer Permits are invalid in Buchanan, Dickenson, and Wise counties and on National Forest and Department-owned property. Hunters may buy unlimited Bonus Deer Permits.

• Tree stand hunting requires a full-body safety harness. Keep tied to the tree when off the ground and limit tether slack to lessen fall injury risk. Plan for emergency self-rescue. Use a haul rope to bring your unloaded rifle or bow into the tree stand. Crossbows may be lifted while cocked, but don’t load them until you’re in the stand and ready to hunt. Maintain manufactured tree stands per manufacturer recommendations. Homemade stands may collapse with time, causing accidents. To guarantee your tree stand is safe, visit the Consumer Product Safety Commission website. Even well-used tree stands may need to be fixed and recalled.

• Deers have a two-day and five-license-year bag restriction west of the Blue Ridge and on National Forest properties in Amherst, Bedford, and Nelson counties. Unless otherwise stated, the five-deer limit requires at least three antlerless deer and no more than two antlered deer. All cities and municipalities west of the Blue Ridge have an unrestricted daily deer bag limit, but only two antlered deer each license year. National Forest and Department-owned/managed properties west of the Blue Ridge allow one deer per day. If a deer hunter kills two antlered bucks in Alleghany, Augusta, Bath, Highland, or Rockbridge County in a license year, at least one must have four antler points, one inch or longer, on one side. One elk per day is allowed statewide.

• Even license-exempt deer hunters have bag limits. Bonus deer permits or DCAP, DMAP, and DPOP permits enable hunters on private and approved public properties to capture more antlerless deer than the license-year bag limit. The daily and season bag limits do not apply to these exceptional deer licenses. Hunters with these special licenses may take more antlerless deer than the bag limit without violating the law.

Questions about the Virginia Deer hunting season

The title of this post is not referring to the stove bans in several states during summer months, which are becoming more and more frequent.

Stove Bans

For those who are unfamiliar with these bans, different government agencies often ban the use of campfires and any stove without an On/Off valve to turn off the stove. Two popular backpacking stove types; solid fuel (usually Esbit) and alcohol stoves are usually explicitly banned. I do question the wisdom of banning solid fuel stoves, which I no longer use due to the high cost of the fuel.

The problem with alcohol stoves, along with any stove or campfire is user error, or perhaps better stated; a lot of people are plain stupid or careless. Except for when it is dark at night, the flame from alcohol stoves is difficult to see. Apparently some people can knock over their alcohol stove while in use (I find this difficult to do and have never had any problem like this) and some have started forest fires because they cannot use an alcohol stove properly.

I have no problem obeying these stove bans. They are put in place for a good reason.

Cost Advantages of Alcohol Fuel Stoves

It is pretty easy to make an alcohol stove from recycled soda cans or cat food cans. If you might be interested in building your own stove do a Google search for “soda can stove” or “pepsi can stove” or” fancy feast stove.”

Several years ago I did a cost analysis of several fuels and found that liquid gas stoves and alcohol fuel stoves were much, much cheaper to operate than gas canister or solid fuel stoves.

Since then I have mostly been using liquid fuel stoves that run on white gas (such as Coleman Fuel), or an alcohol stove using denatured alcohol as its fuel. At the time both were easy to find and inexpensive compared to other fuels.

Obsolescence

Earlier this year, in my long-term 35 year review of the Gaz Globetrotter stove, I complained that over the years several of my canister stoves became obsolete. Not because the stoves quit working, but because the fuel canisters were no longer available. The inability to purchase the fuel canisters rendered the stoves obsolete. Denatured alcohol is no longer legal to sell or purchase in California, which just about makes my alcohol stove obsolete, as I found this fuel to be best for several reasons.

Well, Nick You Live in California . . .

My friends who live in other states often question why I continue to live in the People’s Republic of California with all our regulations and high taxes. The reason I don’t move is because of our great climate and so many outdoor recreation opportunities.

But the people of California didn’t ban denatured alcohol. It was banned by a government agency that doesn’t have a single elected representative of the people, the California Air Resources Board. From Wikipedia:

The Administrative State

A law professor at George Mason University School of Law, Michael Greve, coined the term Administrative State. Greve defines this as,

Professor Greve advocates that this is contrary to the intention of our founding fathers and these government agencies become corrupt seeking power over the people, resulting in despotism.

Pournelle’s Iron Law of Bureaucracy

Jerry Pournelle , the famous polymath, observed this shift in bureaucracies and developed “Pournelle’s iron law of bureaucracy”:

Later Pournelle refined the law to make it easier to understand:

. . . in any bureaucratic organization there will be two kinds of people: those who work to further the actual goals of the organization, and those who work for the organization itself. Examples in education would be teachers who work and sacrifice to teach children, vs. union representatives who work to protect any teacher including the most incompetent. The Iron law states that in all cases, the second type of person will always gain control of the organization, and will always write the rules under which the organization functions.

Government by and for The People

Today it is impossible for any one person to keep up with all the laws passed by local, county, state, federal legislatures, plus all the non-elected entities in our country. It is especially difficult to track all the bureaucracies that now create most of our laws.

Yeah, But That Can’t Happen in the State I Live In

Don’t be so sure. A great example is vehicle emission laws. Years ago, California adopted much more stringent standards than the Federal Government. For many years automakers built two separate models of each car: one for sale in California and one for sale in the other 49 states. Trying to adhere to the many demands of competing agencies that included more and more separate testing and reporting, the carmakers gave up and now build their cars and light trucks to meet the more stringent car and light standards of California. Many states have adopted California’s periodic emission testing methods and expensive testing equipment.

Along with this, we have wealthy moneyed organizations in California lobbying in other states and in Federal Government to institute California’s “better way” across the entire country.

Why California Banned Denatured Alcohol.

I won’t get into the scientific particulars, especially since I am not a scientist. California has banned most consumer and industrial products that contain volatile organic compounds (VOC). Literally thousands of products have been banned and manufacturers must reformulate their products for sale in the Golden state. The range of products includes paints, varnishes, waxes, cleaning, disinfecting, cosmetic, degreasing and hobby products. California has determined VOCs contribute to climate change.

In California we can no longer buy Mineral Sprits now either. As I explained in these two threads about my TrailStar shelter and my Mega Light shelter, diluting silicone with mineral spirits is a popular way to seam seal a tent. No longer the case in my state.

Instead of a long list of affected products, I will just say that we now have cleaners that do not clean, paint remover that doesn’t remove paint, paint and lacquer thinners that don’t thin, paints that don’t paint well, and so on.

There are states nearby that still sell products that work. Often our out of state camping trips include a stop along the way to buy anything I am running low on. A recent trip obtained these items.

Environmental Protection Agency (EPA)

The EPA has thousands and thousands of documents relating to VOCs. Most that I have read are concerned with personal health effects in their handling, especially when used indoors. From what I have read, the EPA’s focus is on communication to warn of side effects if the materials are not handled safely per the products instructions for use and storage – in other words – read the damn instructions!

Keep in mind I haven’t done a comprehensive review of EPA documentation of VOCs. So take my observations with a grain of salt.

Alternative Fuels for Alcohol Stoves

Everclear (190 proof)

This is a brand name for grain alcohol that contains 95% alcohol. I hear it works really well. But few states allow its sale because it is alcohol that can be consumed – the same stuff you find in almost all liquors.

HEET (yellow bottle version)

This stuff works well in an alcohol stove. BUT, it is 95% methanol and can be dangerous to our health. Not only from the fumes of the product itself, but from the fumes generated when burned in a stove. The product is toxic and can even be absorbed into the body from skin contact. I haven’t used it for probably 10 years or so.

You do not want to use HEET that is sold in the red bottles. It works poorly in a stove.

99% Isopropyl Alcohol

Also known as rubbing alcohol. Lower alcohol content (91%, 70%, 50%, etc.) means the alcohol content has been diluted with mostly water. 99% Isopropyl will burn in an alcohol stove. Actually it will boil water faster than most other fuels used in these kinds of stoves. The amount of soot leftover on the stove and pot is considerable. For me, it is so bad that the fuel is a very poor choice for stove fuel.

So that’s about it for fuel options that are viable for use in alcohol stoves.

When (not if) your state follows the lead of the People’s Republic of California, then your alcohol stove will be rendered obsolete.

Do you know what terrifies me more than any other violent encounter?

A knife fight.

I heard someone once say the loser of a knife fight leaves in a hearse, and the winner goes in an ambulance.

It seems, in general, a knife fight is over before it ever starts.

It’s a terrifying proposition to find yourself in any violent situation. But, as Americans, we carry firearms to bridge the gap and protect ourselves against violent attacks.

However, sometimes we can’t have a gun…or a gun might not be the best choice…or maybe the attack happened so fast you can’t access your firearm.

That is where a knife comes into play.

Is it likely you’ll ever use your knife in a self-defense situation?

No, not very likely.

It’s also not statistically likely you’ll use your firearm or tourniquet.

But that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t be prepared to defend yourself with anything on hand.

With that in mind, I’ve gathered some of the best self-defense knives on the market priced under $300.

Why Under $300

For many, a knife that costs $50 is too much. For most, anything over $300 seems crazy.

However, in the knife world, knife guys and gals pay way more than that for some knives.

In truth, the world of knives is massive.

Knives from companies like Microtech can go for as much as $1,000. So, $300 seems a bit more friendly.

This list compiles blades from $20 to $200, ensuring there’s something for just about everyone’s price range.

What to Consider

Before throwing down money on a knife, there are a few things to consider.

Access

How is the knife carried, and how fast can you access it?

Accessing the blade should be rapid and easy to do without much difficulty.

Drawing the knife and getting it into action should be second nature and without complication.

Deployment

Fixed blade knives do not have deployment issues, but folding knives and automatic knives need blades that easily deploy with a single hand. Ambidexterity is a bonus as well.

Concealability

How easily does the knife conceal in regular clothing?

It’s tough to carry a Ka-Bar with a t-shirt to cover it.

A normal person’s defensive blade will need to be concealed. Sadly, that eliminates bowie knives but still opens up some decent fixed blade options.

Get Training!

Like a firearm, you should get some serious training for defensive knives.

Companies like Shiv Works and Active Response Training will get you the skills you need to employ a knife in a defensive situation.

Best Self Defense Knives Under $300

1. Emerson Mini CQC 15

Emerson rose to prominence by making knives for special operations troops.

Ernest Emerson’s small shop became the favorite knifemaker for the Navy SEALs, and word about his fine knives quickly spread.

I carried an Emerson CQC 7 for years as a Marine and became a huge fan of these knives.

While the CQC 7 is great, the Mini CQC 15 is better.

The Mini CQC 15 is a combination of the CQC 7 and Commander models.

It mixes the penetration capability of the CQC 7’s tanto tip with the deep and slash-friendly belly of the Commander.

It allows the user to slash and stab with equal effectiveness.

Emerson knives also sport the wave feature that allows you to open the blade as you draw it from your pocket.

It takes a little practice, but once you’ve mastered it, the Emerson jumps into action.

Your hand won’t slip off the roughly textured G-10 panels.

In fact, if you have a tight grip on the knife and something yanks it from you, some skin is coming with it.

It’s rough but provides a good grip, even when wearing gloves.

As a bonus, it’s also a great knife for EDC tasks and tough enough for camping and general outdoors use.

As far as folding fighting knives go, the Mini CQC 15 is quite versatile.

2. Ka-Bar TDI Investigator

Ka-Bar’s Master series takes numerous knife users’ expertise and boils it into a few purpose-built designs.

Tactical Defense Institute owner and lead instructor John Brenner designed the TDI to be the ultimate police self-defense knife — with firearm retention being the knife’s primary goal.

John’s 33-year police career drove the design, and the end result was a simple but very effective fighting knife.

The Investigator is the compact model and makes concealed carry easier.

As a civilian concealed carrier, I like simplicity, and the TDI makes things very simple.

The somewhat curve to the handle provides you a simplistic design.

Slashing and stabbing with the Investigator is easy as well.

In a hand-to-hand fight, fancy techniques are unlikely. But, if you can punch, you can use the TDI Investigator.

The short blade is unlikely to reach vital organs in the torso, but the sight of your own blood and a large gaping wound would likely deter further violence.

If an attacker gets in knife range, I’d prefer to attack, take the fight out of them, and then beat feet.

Something simple like the Investigator allows that.

As a fixed blade, deployment isn’t an issue, and the sheath allows for a multitude of carry options.

3. Cold Steel Hide Out

Neck knives are all the rage for those looking to carry a fixed blade in the most convenient way possible.

Hide Out turns out to be a rather appropriate name for this neck knife.

Cold Steel designed the Hide Out to be a deep conceal fixed blade dagger design with a 3-inch blade but weighing a mere 1.9-ounces.

A dagger design allows you to stick and stab easily and slash when necessary.

The tip is painfully sharp and will dig in without remorse when told to.

Fixed blades don’t break, or at least they don’t break as often as folding or automatic knives.

Our edge provides a slight belly for slashing, but this is more of a poker than a slasher: more Freddy and less Jason.

A weatherproof material called Kray-Ex adorns the handle and provides a rubberized-like grip with an aggressive texture.

Kray-Ex ensures the knife stays in your hand and provides some degree of comfort as well.

The sheath is polymer and complete with many lashing points to make a necklace or to attach the knife nearly anywhere.

You might say that guy is a little small to be a dagger.

Well, right now, he’s Luke, and you’re a jailed Princess Leia. So, you take what you can get.

It’s small but easy to use and carry.

It’s also relatively affordable and very well made.

4. Hogue OTF

Switchblades are clearly as dangerous as machine guns; at least the regulations regarding them would make it seem so.

Sadly, lots of state laws prohibit the sale and carry of automatic knives. So, before you run out and buy one, it’s worth investigating your local laws.

In short, research before you buy!

If you can carry an automatic knife, then the Hogue OTF might be the one for you.

OTF knives tend to be pricey.

John Wick’s Microtech costs more than a Glock on average.

The Hogue OTF comes in at less than $250. It’s not a budget blade that will fall apart after a few uses, either.

I’ve used mine for years now and carry it all the time.

As an OTF blade, the Hogue deploys with the press of a button, so one-handed deployment is quite simple.

Hearing that schwick as blade deploys is oh so satisfying.

The blade is a clip point with a might swedge for easy cutting and stabbing. It uses a premium grade 154 CM steel that is incredibly tough and quite durable for defensive tasks.

A big grip fills your hand for an effective hammer grip.

Getting slashy and stabbing with the Hogue OTF proves simple, and it will double as a very effective EDC blade.

One-handed deployment will never be easier than with an automatic knife.

Give one a spin, and it’s tough to go back to a standard folder.

But again, local laws supersede the love of a cool tool. Always research your local laws before buying an auto.

5. Toor Knives Jank Shank

Shank is absolutely the best term to describe the Jank Shank.

Look at the simplicity of the little knife and tell me it doesn’t look like a refined prison shank.

The Jank Shank is a simple, lightweight, and ultra-thin fixed blade knife.

Toor Knives is a small company doing big things, and the Jank Shank is a small thing that does big things.

This minimalist design is made for shiving, slashing, and shankin’ with a needle-like blade.

It’s made from CPM 35 VN, a tough tool steel, falling in the premium category of knife blades.

The 3-inch blade is nothing to fuss at and will penetrate deep enough to change someone’s mind when it comes to attacking you.

While it lacks a belly, it will still slice when needed. Ultimately, it’s all about jabs with the Jank Shank.

The Jank Shank has a rear pinky hole to increase retention and make drawing from the sheath easy.

Toor Knives has a multitude of sheath and carry options.

So, you can go traditional IWB, horizontal, or whatever else you need to conceal your shank.

6. Ka-Bar LDK

Another Ka-Bar in the TDI family in the LDK. Kind of. The LDK was designed by a friend of the website, Greg Ellifritz.

LDK stands for Last Ditch Knife, and this fella is teeny tiny.

It’s small enough to work as a neck knife, be laced into a boot, or even stash in a wallet.

Truly, it qualifies as a last-ditch weapon, offering you minimal blade.

That said, the blade is designed to replicate the design of a scalpel. So, even though it’s small, it’s quite effective at cutting flesh.

Like the TDI-style knives, it works well as a punch dagger and is superbly simple to use.

When held, it allows you to add an additional sting to every punch.

At super close quarters, the little blade will open a bad guy up with rapid slashes and punches.

It’s small but mighty and insanely easy to carry and conceal. It can be carried in nearly any style of dress.

It’s friendly to cargo pants and sundresses.

There is no reason ever to be unarmed when something like the LDK exists.

Plus, it’s super cheap and affordable. At less than $20, it’s the cheapest knife on this list by a large margin.

Sometimes simple and small is enough.

Have you tried the Ka-Bar LDK? If so, rate it below!

7. Benchmade SOCP

Finally, we reach the SOCP.

The SOCP is a compact and ultra-thin dagger that was initially designed for military use.

This knife is far from traditional but is inherently modern and easy to use.

While it’s rather long, it is thin, and the included sheath makes it easy to conceal and carry.

The ring at the end of the handle ensures a sure draw and excellent retention.

Users are inclined to use an ice pick grip that allows downward stabs and slashes.

The idea behind the SOCP is simple.

When someone gets on top of you and starts grappling and fighting with you, the SOCP allows you to slash and stab, creating distance between you and the bad guy.

Let the SOCP take the steam out of a violent attacker and retreat.

With how thin the knife is, you can draw your firearm and engage without ditching the knife — very Solid Snake in its design.

The SOCP blade is rather long and will provide some serious sting to the bad guy when needed.

Admittedly it’s not a very good utility knife for EDC purposes.

It’s a bit much to open a piece of mail or to cut through some cardboard.

For creating distance and escaping a threat, though, it’s perfect. Plus, as a fixed blade, there are no deployment worries.

Benchmade also makes a training blade for safe practice. A knife is like a gun, and training is required to be proficient with it.

Conclusion

While the prospect of using a knife defensively is terrifying, it’s still wise to consider a knife as a viable weapon. Not as an alternative to a firearm, but to compliment it, or as a force multiplier in a gun-free zone.

We’ll say it one last time: before you run off half-cocked and buy an automatic knife or a dagger, research your local laws.

If you think gun laws are confusing, wait until you read about knife laws. In some states, it’s easier to carry a gun than specific types of knives.

Do your due diligence, folks.

Agree with my picks? Have your own? Let us know below! Ready for more knife recommendations? We have the 10 Best Tactical Knives and the 4 Best Survival Knives ready for you to read.

A message from EatThePlanet.org: “We are happy you found us! We strive to be informative and accurate. Enjoy what you find here! Take a look at our new downloadable pdf eBook A Complete Guide To Foraging. We put a lot of work into this eBook and are very excited to share it with you.” – Joe Forager(Owner)

Editor’s note: This article was originally published in September 2013. Updated April 2022.

The name ‘wild cherry tree’ refers to a number of species in the genus Prunus. Some of the most common include the black cherry (Prunus serotina) and the chokecherry (Prunus virginiana), both of which are native to North America. There is also a species native to Europe called wild cherry (Prunus avium). All three of these common cherry species have similar characteristics, but there are factors that can help you tell them apart. Both the fruits and bark of the North American species have an interesting history of usage in Native American culture.

Edibility and culinary use

The only edible part of the plant is the flesh of the fruit, as, like store-bought cherries or apples, even the seeds contain toxins. The taste of the fruit can vary between species and even individual trees within the same species. The European wild cherry (Prunus avium) is also known as the ‘sweet cherry’. As the name suggests, the fruits are much sweeter than their North American cousins. Because of this, they are the original wild version of the cherries that we buy at the supermarket.

The black cherry and chokecherry have a similar taste which is usually described as bitter, often with a hint of sweetness. Some trees produce fruits with a sweeter taste, but the bitterness is almost always present. They can be eaten raw right off the tree as a snack while out walking or hiking. However, they’re more commonly used in pies and other recipes. If eating them raw make sure to choose the darkest and softest cherries, and make sure you spit out the seed. Wild cherries usually ripen in summer between May and June depending on the species and area.

Health benefits of wild cherries

Cherries contain a number of very effective antioxidants including chlorogenic acid, quercetin, and kaempferol. Some studies involving chokecherries indicate that they could potentially lower high blood pressure. The high number of antioxidants in black cherries could also help to ease inflammation caused by conditions like arthritis.

Cherries are an excellent source of fiber, potassium, and many B-vitamins. HealthTrends.com has some more indepth information on the benefits of B-vitamins and potassium in your diet.

Cautions and lookalikes

The leaves, bark, seeds, and all other plant parts of the cherry tree contain a substance called hydrogen cyanide that can break down into cyanide. It’s a well-known toxin that can be very harmful to humans. Grazing animals are often lethally poisoned by eating too many cherry leaves. Hydrogen cyanide has a very bitter taste, so if you ever come across berries that are extremely bitter it may be best to avoid them.

When foraging for any wild berries, make sure to follow these fundamental identification steps. Wild cherries generally do not closely resemble any poisonous wild fruits. However naive foragers could mistake black cherries (Prunus serotina) for deadly nightshade or moonseed berries.

How to identify wild cherry

Wild cherry trees can usually be identified by their leaves and bark. The leaves will have finely serrated edges and the bark typically features horizontal lenticels on newer growth, and sometimes older growth too. Chokecherry and black cherry trees are very similar in appearance, however, the chokecherry tree usually has smaller, glossier leaves.

Another good identification feature is that many cherry trees have a fungus called black knot which creates large and small cankers or burls on the tree. Black knot affects many plants in the Prunus genus including cherries and plums. When collecting wild edibles, always make sure to follow Safe Foraging guidelines.

Wild cherries in Native American culture

Cherries were a vital source of nutrition to ancient cultures across Europe and North America, including Native Americans. Wild cherries would have been eaten freshly picked or dried and stored with other berries as a winter supply of fruit. The dried fruits would be used in many dishes including ‘pemmican’, a traditional high-calorie Native American food that was created for long journeys. Dried meat and fruits would be ground down and then mixed with animal fats and stored in rawhide bags to preserve them.

The bark of wild cherries was also collected and used in Native American medicines. It would be ground into a powder or boiled to create teas. It was used mainly to treat respiratory illnesses like coughs and colds. However, it was also used to stem bleeding, and treat digestive complaints like diarrhea or cramps. Chokecherry bark was also used by some groups in a herbal smoking mixture known as Kinnikinnick. The ingredients varied between groups, but it usually contained notable bark and leaves from certain valued plant species.

Conclusion

Chokecherry and black cherry trees are a common find in many parts of the US, especially in the eastern states. They’re also a valued food source for plenty of wildlife too, especially deer, birds, and even bears. If you identify a tree in the wild, or even in your own backyard, try a cherry or two. Personally, I like to eat them freshly picked in small quantities during the summer.

Do you have a local source of wild cherries near you?

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You’re here for the best 223 ammo, but a disclaimer needs to be made because many will argue that .223 Remington and 5.56 Nato are the same.

They are NOT the same despite having the exact external cartridge dimensions.

You should NOT load 5.56mm NATO ammo into a .223 Remington chamber because it will cause higher chamber pressures when fired. The higher pressure can hurt the shooter and damage the rifle.

However, shooting .223 Rem ammunition in a 5.56mm NATO chamber is safe. Still, you will sacrifice some performance because of the difference in distance between the case mouth and the barrel rifling.

With that out of the way, let’s load up on some of the best .223 ammo for every shooter.

If you can’t wait, the best 223 ammo is Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ-BT because it’s reasonably priced and made by a well-known ammo manufacturer.

1. Wolf 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ – Best Plinking Round
2. Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ-BT – Best AR15 Ammo
3. Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64 Grain Extreme Point – Best Deer Hunting Round
4. Hornady 223 Rem 55gr V-MAX Ammunition – Best 223 Varmint Round
5. Remington 223 Rem 77 Grain HPBT – Best Self-Defense Round
6. Winchester 223 Rem 69 Grain HPBT – Best Hollow Point
7. TulAmmo 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ – Cheap .223 Ammo

Best 223 Target Ammo

The best target ammo depends on your preferences. If you intend to have a fun day of plinking, then you’ll want cheap .223 ammo.

However, suppose you’re competitively target shooting. In that case, you’ll likely need to handload your rounds to dial them in perfectly for your gun’s barrel twist rate, or you can use match-grade ammo that is more consistent than inexpensive rounds, but you give up the control to craft the perfect round.

Wolf 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ

Specs

• Casing: Steel
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: N/A
• Muzzle Energy: N/A

Pros

• Inexpensive
• Non-Corrosive

Cons

• Some shooters prefer a brass case over a steel case

Why We Chose It

These Wolf Ammo rounds are a happy compromise between price and reliability, which is why I consider them one of the best for plinking. While most shooters prefer a brass case, these rounds are steel cased, which has its pros and cons.

Steel-cased ammo is cheaper but tougher on your rifle. Steel cases are also more difficult to reload, so if you plan to reload, this probably isn’t the ammo for you.

Though 55gr rounds typically have a higher velocity, they’re not always the ideal bullet weight, especially when shooting long distances.

Wolf ammo is for the budget-minded shooter who doesn’t have the time to reload.

Honorable Mentions

If you want an inexpensive brass casing for target shooting, the PMC 223 55 Grain FMJ-BT is the way to go, but be aware you will pay a little extra for the brass casing.

The Federal Premium 223 Rem 42 Grain Frang. rounds are intended for close-range target shooting and law enforcement training situations. The frangible bullets are much less likely to ricochet when they hit a steel target because they are designed to disintegrate on impact.

Suppose you’re running low on hand-loaded rounds and must practice for a long-range competitive shooting match. In that case, the Remington Premier 223 Rem 55 Grain AccuTip-V rounds are a viable option based on their ballistics.

Best AR 15 Ammo

Federal American Eagle 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ-BT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,240 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,282 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• Reasonably priced

Cons

• Not the best self-defense round

Why We Chose It

You can burn through a lot of 223 Remington ammo when shooting an AR, so you don’t want high-end expensive ammo, but you need a reliable round that will allow your firearm to operate smoothly.

That’s where this 55gr bullet in a brass case perfectly fits. It’s not the most expensive, so it’s not terrible on your wallet, but also dependable for target shooting.

However, this would not be my first choice for home defense because the Federal .223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ-BT is a full metal jacket bullet instead of a hollow point bullet.

This 55-grain bullet has a decent velocity, but the lightweight bullet will be affected more by the wind as your distance to the target increases.

Honorable Mention

The Wolf WPA Military Classic 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ was designed for mass production for military use, so it’s inexpensive and relatively reliable. The significant downside is that these are steel cartridges instead of brass.

Best 223 Hunting Ammo

The 223 is not the most popular hunting round because it lacks the power to harvest big game ethically. However, in some states, you can use a .223 Rem for deer hunting, and it is a solid varmint round.

Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64-Grain Extreme Point Ammunition

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: XP (Extreme Point)
• Bullet Weight: 64gr
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,020 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,296 ft-lbs

Pros

• Designed for deer hunting
• It packs a punch for a medium-weight 223 bullet
• Trusted brand

Cons

• Expensive
• 223 is not the best deer hunting caliber

Why We Chose It

It’s unlikely you’ll shoot an entire box of ammo for deer season, so the price per round is less of a concern. The most important things you need from your .223 ammo for deer hunting are reliability, consistency, and stopping power which Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64gr can offer hunters.

The 223 Remington is not known for its stopping power, which is why most deer hunters use larger calibers, and it’s banned in some states. However, increasing the bullet weight will aid in upping the stopping power to a point.

The heavier 64gr bullet is slower than the other lighter bullets, but it’s needed to increase the stopping power.

Even though it’s designed for deer hunting, it’s effective in other hunting situations.

Honorable Mention

The Federal 223 Rem 62 Grain Fusion has a little lighter bullet that you’d expect to travel faster than the Winchester Deer Season XP; however, that’s not the case. The main advantage this bonded soft point bullet has is the price. It’s much cheaper than the Winchester Deer Season XP, so you can practice with it more without breaking the bank.

Best Varmint 223 Round

Hornady 223 Rem 55gr V-MAX Ammunition

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: V-Max
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,240 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,282 ft-lbs

Pros

• Fast
• Trusted brand

Cons

• Can get expensive

Why We Chose It

Varmint hunting typically involves shooting much more often than deer hunting, so having a dependable round, reasonably priced, is critical. Varmints are generally smaller animals, so the knockdown power doesn’t have to be as much as when hunting big game.

Because they’re lightweight, fast-traveling bullets, 223 bullets are a solid choice for hunting coyotes, prairie dogs, and other varmints, and the Hornady 55gr V-MAX is no exception.

The 3,240 fps of this Varmint Express round is the high average for most 55gr bullets, which is expected from Hornady. They’re one of the leading ammo manufacturers and trusted by many shooters and hunters because of the dependability of their ammunition.

For more options, check out our Hornady 223 ammo page.

Honorable Mention

The Sierra Prairie Enemy 223 55 Grain BlitzKing has lower muzzle velocity and muzzle energy, and it’s more expensive than the Hornady 55-grain bullet, but some rifles are more accurate with this round.

Best Home Defense Round

AR-15s excel in urban combat areas; however, that doesn’t mean they’re the best home defense weapon.

That title belongs to the shotgun because projectiles from a shotgun are less likely to over-penetrate.

However, if all you have is a 223 rifle, then, by all means, use it to defend yourself using some of the ammo choices below.

Remington 223 Rem 77-Grain HPBT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Hollow Point Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 77-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 2,790 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,331 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• High muzzle energy
• A heavier bullet means more knockdown power

Cons

• Lower muzzle velocity
• Not cheap

Why We Chose It

Though it’s not the fastest, it’s one of the heaviest 223 hollow point bullets available, so it will pack more of a punch to the threat, hence the higher muzzle energy.

Since Remington is in the name of the 223, we should expect them to make the best 223 ammo on the market, and they are a trusted brand in the ammo space, though some Remington firearms have seen a decline in quality.

Be prepared to spend more for this and other home defense rounds. This is partly due to the specialized bullets used in defense rounds.

Despite being slower than lighter bullets, the muzzle velocity is still plenty fast. An intruder won’t notice the difference in speed if you’re forced to use it to defend your family and yourself.

Honorable Mentions

The Federal LE Tactical TRU 223 Rem 55 Grain Nosler Ballistic Tip Ammunition offers a lighter bullet, which means less recoil, not that a 223 has much recoil anyways, and it also travels faster. However, this means you’re giving up some stopping power, but you’re saving a little money.

The most expensive self-defense round we will mention today is the Winchester Silvertip 223 Rem 64 Grain Defense Tip. Ballistically speaking, it sits in the middle, primarily because the bullet weight is between the other two rounds previously mentioned.

Best Hollow Point 223

Winchester 223 Rem 69-Grain HPBT

Specs

• Casing: Brass
• Bullet Type: Hollow Point Boat Tail
• Bullet Weight: 69-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,060 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,434 ft-lbs

Pros

• Trusted brand
• Reasonably priced
• Solid ballistics

Cons

• Not the fastest
• Not the cheapest

Why We Chose It

The Winchester .223 Rem 69gr hollow point boat tail bullets might not be the cheapest or the fastest, but they pack more of a punch than the lighter hollow points, and they’re not overpriced despite being manufactured by a trusted brand.

The ballistics won’t blow anyone away, but considering the bullet weight, these rounds hold their own.

These 69gr hollow points offer shooters a higher velocity and muzzle energy than other heavier bullets, so maybe you can have your cake and eat it too.

I wouldn’t hesitate to use Winchester 223 Rem 69-Grain HPBT in a home defense situation plus; they’re not so expensive you can’t afford to practice with them at times.

For more options, check out our Winchester 223 ammo page!

Honorable Mention

TulAmmo 223 Rem 55 Grain HP are much cheaper than the Winchester 69gr HPBT, and they’re faster thanks to the lighter bullet, which also means less recoil. However, the cartridges are steel instead of brass.

Cheapest 223 Ammo

TulAmmo 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ

Specs

• Casing: Steel
• Bullet Type: Full Metal Jacket
• Bullet Weight: 55-grain
• Muzzle Velocity: 3,241 fps
• Muzzle Energy: 1,283 ft-lbs

Pros

• Cheap
• High muzzle velocity

Cons

• Steel casing
• Cheap ammo is less dependable

Why We Chose It

If you want cheap 223 ammo, this is it. It’s a third of the price of most 223 Rem hunting and self-defense ammo, so if you take it to the range, you’ll be able to stay longer because you’re not spending your paycheck on ammo for target practice.

The reason it’s so cheap is that it’s steel-cased ammunition. This means it’ll be more challenging to reload and a little tougher on your firearm.

Despite being cheap, TulAmmo 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ offers shooters comparable ballistics to more expensive 55gr ammo, which means you can train with it and get similar results as the costly ammunition.

Honorable Mention

Though Wolf 223 Rem 55 Grain FMJ is slightly more expensive than the Tula ammo mentioned above, sometimes you can find it in Wolf Gold, which means it is a brass case instead of a steel case.

How to Choose the Best 223 Ammo Based on Your Needs

When purchasing ammunition, you’re typically compromising because there’s no perfect ammunition. There are always several considerations that you need to make.

Budget

The primary consideration for the average firearms enthusiast is the budget.

How much are you able to spend on ammo?

My personal preference is to shoot for somewhere in the middle; however, there were times when I was pinching every penny, so I was only concerned with the cheapest ammo I could find.

Remember that cheaper ammo tends to be less reliable than more expensive ammunition.

Reliability

The reliability of the ammo is critical, especially if it’s self-defense ammo. You need to know that the round will fire when you pull the trigger.

I’ve purchased ammunition that regularly didn’t fire, despite seeing an indention on the primer. This was very frustrating when shooting at the range, but it could have resulted in severe harm had I needed it during a defensive situation.

I tend to stick with well-known brands, but sometimes the reliability of the ammo also depends on your firearm.

Some guns function better with specific ammunition brands. This means you’ll need to test several brands to determine which one your weapon likes best.

Ballistics

The ballistics you need out of the ammo will depend on what application for which you’re using it. If you’re plinking at the range, the ballistics don’t matter as much as when you’re shooting in a competition.

For a competition, typically, a fast medium-weight bullet works best, but once again, it will depend on what your gun likes. Sometimes the lighter, faster bullets work best, and sometimes the heavier bullets work best.

I prefer to stick with medium-weight bullets that still pack a punch for hunting and self-defense. The muzzle velocity is less important but still relevant in hunting situations.

How to Save Money On Ammo

As ammo demand and prices continue only to increase, as shooting enthusiasts, we’re always looking for ways to save a little money so that we can visit the gun range more often.

Here are a few recommendations I have for saving money on 223 ammo.

Buying in Bulk

When you buy bulk 223 ammo, the manufacturer and retailer give you a slight discount per round. While it might only be a few cents per round, those cents add up quickly when you’re shooting a few hundred rounds or more on every visit to the gun range.

The worst part about buying bulk ammo is the initial cost. You have to spend several hundred dollars to get significant savings.

However, ammunition lasts for a long time when properly stored, so you can stock up while prices are as low as they’ll ever be and not be in a rush to shoot it.

Reloading

Reloading or handloading is another way to save money on factory ammo. You can use spent brass and reload it by cleaning the brass, punching out the used primer, inserting a new one, pouring in gunpowder, and inserting a new bullet.

Obviously, this is an oversimplified explanation, but that’s the basic idea.

This saves money in the long run and gives you more control over the process so you can craft the perfect bullet for your gun, whether that’s an AR-15 rifle or a trusty bolt-action hunting rifle.

Reloading has the same problem as buying bulk because it’s a significant investment upfront that pays itself off over the long run.

If you’re really crazy, like most of us firearms enthusiasts, you’ll do both, buy in bulk and reload to save even more money!

Common 223 Bullet Types

There’s not a wide variety of 223 bullets, but there are a few you should be aware of and understand which one works best in what situations.

FMJ

The most common 223 bullets are FMJs or Full Metal Jackets. They’re usually the least expensive. They’re not the best for home defense because they tend to over-penetrate the target and walls.

FMJs are suitable for target practice; however, I don’t recommend shooting steel targets with FMJs within 100 yards. I have had the metal jacket come back and cut my cheek when shooting metal targets at 75 yards with a buddy.

HPBT

Hollow Point Boat Tail Bullets or HPBT are common hunting and self-defense rounds. The hollow point expands on impact, which reduces its ability to penetrate but, upon entrance, causes more damage.

For more HPBT ammo options, visit our Fiocchi 223 ammo page.

The Boat Tail refers to the aerodynamic shape of the bottom of the bullet. The base is tapered to improve accuracy at long distances.

SP

The Soft Point bullets, designated by SP, expand less on impact than hollow point bullets, so they get better penetration yet expand more than an FMJ. So you can have a happy medium between the two bullet types.

To achieve this, these bullets are made from a softer lead than the typical bullet. They are most popular amongst big game hunters, where hollow point bullets are banned. However, they don’t have the stopping power that hollow points typically do because of the reduction in expansion.

Ballistic Tip

The Ballistic Tip is Nosler’s name for their hunting ammunition with a plastic tip on a hollow point bullet. The polymer tip helps with aerodynamics and allows the hollow point uniformly expand.

Be sure to check your local hunting regulations, as Ballistic Tipped bullets are banned in some areas.

Green Tip

Green Tip ammo is most often found in 5.56 NATO rounds because it’s designed for the military as a penetrator round. Instead of a lead core bullet, it has a steel rod inside that can better penetrate the target when closer than 100 yards.

However, some ranges don’t allow green tip ammo, so if you choose to go this route, don’t be surprised if your local gun range doesn’t allow you to bring it in.

Parting Shots

The best 223 ammo for you will depend on your gun and the circumstances in which you intend to use it.

For hunting, that will likely be Winchester Deer Season XP 223 64gr.

While if you plan to use it for home defense, I recommend Remington 223 Rem 77-Grain HPBT because the hollow point bullet is less likely to over-penetrate.

Lastly, for target shooting, I recommend Wolf 223 Rem 55-Grain FMJ because it’s inexpensive.

Are you going tenting with your dog and not sure which tent is the best choice for you and your best friend? I know there are a lot of choices and it can be daunting to pick out the right dog friendly tent. After frequent camping trips with my now 9 year old dog, Ayla, I’ve been through a few different tents and I’ve definitely come to a conclusion of what I think is the best tent for camping with dogs.

Obviously, there are many factors that play a role in which tent to choose, so I will go through the main factors you should look for in a pet friendly tent and the pros and cons with different tents so that you can make a sound decision based on your dog, camping habits, and needs.

Disclosure: This post may contain affiliate links. That means that if you make a purchase through one of those links, I will get a small commission at no extra cost to you. If you have any questions about these services or products, feel free to ask me.

How to choose the best tent for camping with dogs

There are a few things you need to consider before choosing the best tent for camping with dogs. First of all, do you want the dog to sleep inside the tent or not?

The first years I camped with Ayla, I had a tunnel tent and she slept outside in the front department. Later, I got a larger tent and chose to take her inside and we both love it! Now, I would never leave her outside again.

I’ll go through the pros and cons of having your dog inside or outside the tent to help you make the best choice for you and your dog.

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Advantages of having the dog inside the tent

One major advantage of having your dog inside the tent is that it can’t wander off at night if it becomes curious of something. This means you don’t have to get up at night to chase it.

Even though the dog is in a leash, I find that they tend to slip out of their harness if they really want to.

As a result, you get a better sleep and your dog gets a more relaxed night without having to protect the tent from the outside world.

Another advantage is that it’s so cozy to have your furry friend next to you. I really noticed a big difference on Ayla once I let her come inside the tent and sleep on her blanket in her own corner. She was proud, happy, and very relaxed. Opposed to before, she now sleeps through the whole night.

Having your dog in the tent also makes it easier to leave the tent when you go to the shower or bathroom. Dogs are usually more calm when they have smaller areas to protect so the tent is the perfect place.

If it rains outside, it can be a disadvantage to have your dog sleeping on a mat on the ground as it can get wet, which in turn isn’t very comfortable. Inside the tent you know it’s dry and comfortable for your pet.

Disadvantages of having the dog inside the tent

First of all, if your dog sheds like mine, you’ll get a large amount of dog hair inside your tent. If you usually have your dog in the bed, then you probably don’t mind, so it won’t be a problem.

The other thing that could be a disadvantage is if it rains or your dog gets wet from bathing before entering the tent, it will get humid but can also smell like wet dog, depending on the breed.

On the other hand, you know that your dog is not laying on wet ground outside.

Finally, I can imagine it’s a pain to have a super active dog inside the tent if it can’t lay still and keep spinning around. Personally, I haven’t had this problem with Ayla, as she’s a very calm lady.

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Features to look for in a dog friendly tent

Now that you’ve hopefully made a sound decision on whether to have your dog inside or outside the tent, let’s have a look at dog-friendly tents for you and your furry friend.

I have listed a few features I think a pet-friendly tent should have (or not have) from my experience of camping with Ayla before we look at the best tents for dogs.

The less tent cords the better

I’ve had a couple of hiking tents and mountain tents with a lot of cords to help the tent stand properly and it might be my clumsiness (they also say the dog resembles its owner), but both Ayla and I found ourselves stumbling in the tent cords in more than one occasion. In the worst case scenarios, this has resulted in a partly collapsed tent.

Needless to say, I’m not a big fan of tents that need a lot of cords to stay erected and I profoundly believe that the best tents for camping with dogs are the ones with fewer cords.

Easy access in and out

Easy access to go in and out of the tent is essential when tent camping with a dog. My first tent wasn’t a very dog friendly tent. It did have a front department where she slept in her bed or blanket, but the tent was small and low.

A 2-person Bergans tunnel tent, perfect for hiking and spending the night in extreme and windy weather in the mountain.

If I had taken Ayla hiking over several days and had to carry the tent in my backpack, I’d definitely use this tent! But not for car camping.

For me, it’s also an important matter that Bergans is a sustainably conscious outdoors brand, striving for a more sustainable production chain.

The one I have now, is excellent. There is no front department, but it’s easy and straight access in and out which means fewer chances of disaster from an eager dog.

I also found a larger tent (3-4 person) with front department is easier to navigate with Ayla around, both because of the height but also because there is generally speaking more room.

Easy access to water

It’s important that your dog has easy access to water. If you have the dog in the front department of your tent, it’s possible to leave a bowl of water there so the dog can drink during the night.

If you opt for having the dog inside the tent, you need to make sure there is a water bowl outside the tent opening so you can let the dog out and drink before bed time and as soon as you wake up. This is especially important in warmer weather conditions.

When I go camping with Ayla during Spanish summer, I often give her water if I wake up in the middle of the night too.

To summarize this, you don’t want to have a tent where you have to get through several tent openings before you can get to the water.

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Best tents for camping with dogs

Based on the above and my experience, I have picked out a few top dog friendly tents to help you pick the best tent for camping with dogs based on your needs.

Vaude Campo Compact XT dome tent

Vaude has this great dome tent which has a spacious front department if you opt for letting your dog sleep outside. It does have space for a blanket or a small dog bed so that your pet can sleep comfortably.

With the front department, it’s easy to have water accessible for your dog all night.

Vaude is one of the leading outdoors brands within sustainability and the majority of their overall materials are vegan.

The only down side with this tent, are the tent cords. Otherwise, this is without a doubt one of the best tents for camping with dogs on the market.

This tent weights 3 kilos and can be packed up for shorter hikes too.

Get a Vaude Campo Compact XT dome tent here

The North Face Stormbreak tent

This tent from The North Face is a great pet friendly tent. Easy to set up, it is the perfect tent for camping with dogs.

It’s easy to get in and out and you don’t have tent cords either you or your dog can stumble in, which makes it a much better experience.

There is a small front department where you can leave a bowl of water. there is room to leave your dog outside as well, depending on the breed.

What I love about this tent, is that it’s easy and with only 3 kilos for the 3-person tent, you can carry it on small hikes too. The 1-person tent (which might be tight if your dog is bigger than a Chihuahua) only weights 1,4 kilos.

Get The North Face Stormbreak tent here

Quechua 2 seconds pop up tent

My current tent is this Quechua 2 seconds pop up tent, which is super handy. It seriously only takes a few seconds to pop it open. No tent poles needed, which means Ayla can’t walk on top of the tent and make a mess while I try to put it together.

When there’s no wind, you don’t even need to peg this tent to the ground, which makes it even quicker to get up and to pack. I also find a lot of camp grounds have hard soil or even pebbles where you pitch your tent and unless you have a hammer or huge muscles (which I definitely can’t brag about), it’s impossible to peg the tent.

This tent is spacious and easy to get in and out of both for you and your pet. I always leave a water bowl for Ayla outside, and when I wake up, I open up so she can stick her head out and drink. It’s also waterproof, which I’ve unintentionally tested by spilling a whole bottle of water over the top.

The only thing I have to pick on when it comes to this tent, is that my friends and I had problems packing it up the first few times and had to ask for help from other campers. This summer, though, I magically found the trick and now I can’t understand that I ever had a problem with it.

Note that the packaging is not suitable for hiking as it packs up really big, though perfect for car camping.

Except from being the less sustainable tent I’ve used so far, Quechua’s pop up feature goes a long way in being user friendly and the fact that you don’t need cords or pegs makes this the best pop up tent for camping with dogs.

Get a Quechua 2 seconds pop up tent here

Conclusion

Rounding up this post on the best tents for camping with dogs, I hope you have the information you need to make a sound decision on what are the best pet friendly tents for you and your dog.

If you have any thoughts, questions, other recommendations you think I should consider in this post, feel free to drop me a comment below.

Happy dog camping!

Other necessities when taking dogs camping:

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