Winter is here and we’ve got crappie on the brain. Whether you are targeting slab crappie the size of dinner plates or just looking to get some tasty fillets, gearing up with a few top lures is essential.

Crappie are not alway easy to catch but you don’t need a million and one lures to get the job done. Assembling a few of the best crappie lures is all it takes to hook more and bigger fish through the ice every time.

Looking to put together the ultimate crappie ice fishing tackle box? Well, you’ve come to the right place.

On this list, you’ll find 11 unbeatable crappie lures that have been proven choices among experienced ice anglers for years. Take a look at the selection below to see what you’ve been missing.

1. Demon Jig

Custom Jigs and Spins Demon Jig has a long, time-tested history of success on the ice. Take a peek in any diehard crappie angler’s arsenal and you’ll see one of these classic lures.

We put the Demon Jig at the top of this list because it may be the only lure you need to catch crappie all winter long. Its beetle shape profile and vertical hook presentation makes it ideal for delicate bait presentations that crappie often crave. And the Demon Jig’s powers don’t stop there. Choose from several tantalizing glow colors and a range of sizes that will make it your go-to bait on the ice.

How to ice fish with a Demon Jig

Demon Jigs excel at targeting early ice crappie that suspend over shallow weed beds. However, you can scale up in size to target crappie all season long at any depth. These tiny jigs require a delicate delivery with light 2-4 pound test line. We even like to add a small split shot 12 inches above the jig. This puts tension on the rod tip to help transmit bites better.

As a vertical hanging jig, it pairs well with live bait. Use a couple maggots or a juicy wax worm to tip a size 8 or 10 Demon for a finesse approach. Short, small hops just above suspended crappie drives them wild.

When live minnows are the ticket for a tough bite, switch to a size 4 or 6. Hook a minnow how you see fit and drop it down. This is a great option for a deadstick rod.

2. Acme Tungsten Sling Blade Jig

We thought it would be nice to include a newcomer to the crappie ice fishing scene. It may be new, but it is fast earning its place in the ranks as a killer crappie bait.

The Sling Blade gets its name from a unique pivoting hook that imparts a vertical swing to any plastic or live bait on the hook. When you need to show finicky fish something fresh, grab an Acme Sling Blade. Sizes and colors for any situation are available.

How to ice fish with an Acme Tungsten Sling Blade Jig

As with any horizontal tungsten jig, tip the hook with your favorite plastic or bait. For most of ice season, a size 3 jig is fine but step up to size 5 when crappie are aggressive and you need to get back down fast.

Use a quick, consistent jigging motion to get that hook swinging. Soft plastics develop a special action on the Sling Blade that you can’t get on any other tungsten jig.

Some anglers think the swinging hook interferes with good hook sets but we find the opposite to be true. Almost every crappie gets the hook right in the top of their mouth.

3. VMC Tungsten Probe Jig

Without question, the VMC Probe Jig is a prerequisite for any ice angler wanting a universal crappie lure. The TriggerX plastic has a profile that mimics a diverse range of natural forage found in most crappie waters.

Coupled with a 1/16 or 1/32 ounce tungsten jig, this lure tempts all crappie with its seductive tail flicks. Even the slightest quiver of your rod sets the Probe Jig in motion. The 1.25” long plastic is just the right size to grab the attention of hungry fish.

How to ice fish with a VMC Tungsten Probe Jig

Like most soft plastics aimed ate getting crappie to bite under the ice, the VMC Tungsten Probe Jig is best fished with subtlety. Drop down on a school but stop short about 1 to 3 feet above them. Give a few moderate hops then make it stutter on the spot. Interested crappie will rise fast and gulp it down.

We recommend having both the 1/16 and 1/32 ounce sizes in a few different colors. Black chartreuse glow, pink chartreuse glow, natural glow, and chartreuse glow are our favorites. Tipping the Probe with a single maggot is often the best way to seal the deal on finicky fish.

4. Ratso Jig

Custom Jigs and Spins makes another entry on our list with the ever popular Ratso Jig. This horizontal, lead-head jig yields big results on slab-sized crappie. No ice fishing kit is complete until you get a few of these.

Once you drop down through the ice with a Ratso, you’ll see why they earn their reputation year after year. The super soft, flexible body supplies the ultimate in finesse. Shake it on the spot or hold it in place. Either way, that delicate Ratso tail will mesmerize even the most clever panfish.

How to ice fish with a Custom Jigs and Spins Ratso Jig

The Ratso is ideal for shallow water applications. That’s why this is the first jig we tie on our line for early ice panfish. Choose a 1/32 or 1/64 ounce jig in chartreuse, orange sherbet or any glow color you like.

No need to tip this lure with bait. Just bounce it on the spot and that is all the convincing crappie need.

5. Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig

Sometimes it takes a more natural approach to yank a stubborn crappie through the ice. Enter the Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig. This supremely simple jig gives all the right action using nothing but a feather.

Each barb on the feather jig moves with bewitching gentleness that not even modern soft plastics can match. Each lead jig has a contrasting feather hand tied and glued securely in place. When the bite gets tough, we reach for the Lindy Little Nipper.

How to ice fish with a Lindy Little Nipper Feather Jig

The Little Nipper isn’t necessarily the first lure we tie on for winter crappie but it certainly should be part of every ice angler’s repertoire when all else fails. Both the 1/16 and 1/32 ounces sizes in white and chartreuse are a staple in our box.

It’s hard to fish the Little Nipper Jig wrong but a slow approach highlights the fine action of the feathers. Keep it above suspended crappie where they see it best. This is not the most durable jig but it out lasts most plastics 9 times out of 10.

6. Clam Maki Plastics

Deep in the heart of ice fishing country, Maki is a household term heard in just about every conversation. Clam Maki Plastics aren’t just a recommended bait, they are a requirement for serious anglers chasing big crappie.

Maki Plastics come in all shapes and sizes. From minnow mimics to alien-like squids, all are capable of slaying monster crappie in every lake, pond and river. Each type is expertly designed to imitate some form of aquatic life for an unrivaled “match the hatch” look. Popular Maki include the Maki Jamei, Maki Mino and Maki Polli.

How to ice fish with Clam Maki Plastics

Tungsten jigs are among the best way to serve up Maki Plastics to all panfish. You’ll get the most enticing action using horizontal jig presentations. But don’t limit yourself. Some anglers like to use Maki Plastics to tip spoons or lipless crankbaits for added flare.

We prefer to pair Maki Plastics with 1/16 and 1/32 ounce tungsten jigs. Go with glow colors. Especially, when crappie are holding over deep basins where less light penetrates through ice and water. Use a gentle jigging cadence to make the Maki fingers dance.

7. Little Atom Nuggies

Little Atom Nuggies have all the right curves in all the right places. These soft plastics feature the ingredients needed to sleuth up a full limit of crappie on the ice. An ultra-finesse tail and an egg shaped body match up nicely with small tungsten jigs.

With over a dozen colors and scent impregnated into every Nuggie, this small bait packs a big wallop. When downsizing becomes the name of the game, reach for the Little Atom Nuggies.

How to ice fish with Little Atom Nuggies

There are days on the ice when schooling crappie are right below you but not a single fish wants to bite. That’s when you put on a Little Atom Nuggie. Drop it down on a small tungsten jig and work it with a light touch. The super soft tail wiggles all on its own.

This is not a search bait. The inch long plastic has a tiny profile so it’s best reserved for enticing panfish that you know are nearby.

8. Rapala Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap

You would be hard pressed to find any top lure list that doesn’t have a Rapala lure on it. Then again, Rapala produces some of the finest baits around so it makes sense. Keeping with that trend, the Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap claims a top spot as one of the best lipless crankbaits for tackling slab crappie on the ice.

Rippin’ Raps have a full compliment of vibrating BB rattles, realistic holographic eyes and textured finishes that single out big fish in the school.

How to ice fish with the Rapala Ultra Light Rippin’ Rap

Staying on top of schooling winter crappie is a constant challenge and search baits are a must. The Rippin’ Rap is among the best lures for calling in fish. Jig it aggressively to engage the intense rattles. Let it drop with a slow flutter followed by a short pause.

Once you mark fish on the flasher, tone your action down and keep it above the fish. With subtle twitches, raise it up as fish rise to strike. Color choice depends on water clarity but pearl grey shiner and glow never fail.

9. Salmo Chubby Darter

Salmo hit a home run with the Chubby Darter. For ice anglers there is no better alternative to live bait. The plump minnow profile and potent action entice strikes when the bite gets tough.

The Chubby Darter is a vertical wobbler with no equal. Its high density foam body combines a slow sink rate with wobbling maneuvers that drive crappie wild. You’ll find this lure in two sizes and nearly a dozen life-like colors.

How to ice fish with the Salmo Chubby Darter

When ice fishing for crappie, go with the smaller 1/16 ounce size 3 Salmo Chubby Darter. As far as color choice, stick with what works where you typically fish. We like the gold yellow perch and silver red orange combinations.

Start out jigging with quick rising snaps to get the Chubby Darter wobbling. The intensity of the wobble will send this lure far outside the area of your hole. Don’t be surprised if it disappears momentarily from your flasher screen. Now, let it drop with a controlled fall. Most crappie come in for the kill as it sinks so watch for sudden slack in the line.

10. Kastmaster Spoons

No tackle box is complete without the addition of a Kastmaster Spoon. That’s why most serious ice anglers have a few on hand. The unique beveled cuts and fast sinking design lets you drop down quickly with a captivating flutter.

No spoon is better for sharp shooting crappie holding tight to structure or in deep water. With nearly limitless color and size options, the Kastmaster is one of the most versatile spoons on the ice.

How to ice fish with a Kastmaster Spoon

Kastmasters don’t get the love they deserve from ice anglers looking to take advantage of hot crappie bites. This is the ultimate spoon for picking off eater crappie without spooking the school.

Start with 1/12 ounce Kastmasters and drop them down just above marked fish. Pound it on the spot with aggressive 6 inch lifts of the rod tip to get the best jittering flash and vibration from the lure. Once fish start rising to the bait, give it a quivering lift and get them to chase. To call in fish from a distance, try a Kastmaster Rattlemaster. Tip these spoons with waxies or maggots as well.

11. Swedish Pimple Spoons

It takes true greatness to earn the mythical status Swedish Pimples hold among ice anglers. Decades of proven fish catching power means that stepping on the ice without one is ill-advised.

Great care was taken in the Swedish Pimple design to make it the best spoon under the ice. It’s delicate flutter when jigged and the classic red “flipper” keep crappie coming back for more season after season.

How to ice fish with a Swedish Pimple Spoon

The Swedish Pimple shines brightest as a finesse spoon. We opt for the small 1/10 ounce size for fussy crappie and the 1/5 ounce size when fish are deep. Keep a variety of colors on hand to accommodate different water conditions but chartreuse and yellow prism colors as well as the “Ice” lineup are our favorites.

Jig the Pimple as you would any other spoon. To really engage the mouth watering action of the flipper produce rapid twitches with your rod. Minute movements are all it takes to close the deal on curious crappie. Also, don’t forget to tip Swedish Pimples with bait.

Ice fishing for crappie

Now that you know which ice fishing lures are the best for crappie, let’s take a look at when and where to put them to use.

Finding crappie under the ice

Crappie seldom pick a spot and stay put all year long. They move from location to location to meet their basic needs as the season changes.

• Early ice crappie tend to hold along the edges of shallow weed beds with healthy vegetation. Food is prolific and crappie will school up in the 7 to 12 foot zone on many lakes.

• As winter progresses, you’ll often find dispersed schools of crappie suspended over deep basins. Find them anywhere from 20 to 40 feet deep, sometimes over the deepest part of the basin.

• Once late winter arrives, crappie push to the edges of the basin adjacent to weedy flats. These weedy flats are usually the same areas crappie stage in for the spring spawn.

Tactics to catch more crappie

Ice fishing for crappie is not always a sure bet. Increasing the odds that you go home successful takes more than just luck. Put the odds in your favor with a few tips the pros always follow.

• Fish efficiently: Pre-scout your lakes to eliminate unproductive water. By keying in on likely habitat and topography, you’ll spend more time in productive areas. Lake maps and GPS are critical components to catching more crappie.

• Fish the prime-time bite: It’s easy to want to pack up and call it a day before the sun hits the horizon. However, some of the hottest crappie fishing on the ice occurs after dark. Check out our complete guide to ice fishing at night to make the most of the night bite.

• Watch the weather: Cold snaps and sudden changes in weather can turn off a crappie bite. Even below the ice, crappie are sensitive to weather. Change your tactics and practice patience when the going gets tough.

• Move, move, move: Crappie are a schooling fish. During ice fishing season, finding crappie means drilling lots of holes. Find likely spots but make sure you move around to track down the school. (Bonus tip – drop your transducer through the ice and swing it slowly from side to side to pick up fish from a wider area)

Don’t forget about live bait

If there is one bait that rarely fails to catch crappie, it’s a small live minnow. Hook a minnow on a plain hook with a split shot 6 inches above it for a killer deadstick technique. You can also try hooking a live minnow on a tungsten jig for a more active jigging approach.

Among the best live baits for crappie are maggots and waxies. As we mentioned before, tipping any lure with a waxy or maggot usually results in more strikes.

A complete crappie ice fishing arsenal should always have a little live bait on hand. Don’t miss our recent article to see the best live bait for ice fishing.

Parting words

Can’t get enough lure recommendations? Stock up this season and take a look at more of the best ice fishing lures for trout, perch and walleye.

In this article, we explore the misconceptions around crossbows and highlight the very real dangers they pose.

This follows the recent inquest into the death of Shane Gilmer who was “unlawfully killed” by a crossbow.

Together with Shane’s partner, Laura Sugden, we are supporting a campaign to call for stricter laws governing the purchase/acquisition/possession of crossbows. You can view the Parliamentary Petition here.

Our Inquest expert, Gemma Vine discuss some of the common questions being asked about crossbows and the campaign to impose stricter laws:

Q: Why should the Government spend money changing the law when incidents with a crossbow are so rare?

Gemma says: At the conclusion of Shane’s Inquest Ison Harrison carried out research into incidents in which someone had either been injured or killed as a result of a crossbow. Our research was brief and reliant upon media sources obtained via internet searches and therefore we anticipate that we have only just skimmed the surface of the problem.

Worryingly in the last 5 years alone, there have been 21 incidents reported in the media of someone being injured or killed by a crossbow and a further 19 incidents where someone was threatened or caught brandishing a crossbow in public. Only this weekend (1.30am on 9 May 2021) an incident occurred in Barnsley where a young man was arrested by armed police for brandishing a crossbow in public. It is our belief that there has been a demonstrable increase in incidents involving crossbows over recent years and therefore is no longer a rare event.

Q: Isn’t there an argument that the Government should then ban the sale of knives as they cause even more deaths and serious injury than a crossbow?

Gemma says: Unlike knives crossbows can be fired at a distance and still cause devastating damage to the person who has been shot. Crossbows are silent, lethal weapons, which have a similar effective range to a shotgun but offer the accuracy of a rifle. A crossbow bolt when fired can be so powerful that in Shane’s case it travelled through his arm, fracturing the bone, then into the side of his torso, fracturing a rib, slicing through 2 internal organs before embedding into his spine. The force was so powerful that once in his spine the pathologist said he had great difficulty in removing the bolt.

Furthermore, unlike knives which can have a day to day purpose like kitchen knives etc, we can see no routine reason why someone would need to own a crossbow. It is illegal to hunt with a crossbow and there are very few sporting competitions in the UK which allow the use of a crossbow. As a result there should be very few people in the UK who would legitimately need to possess a crossbow, and therefore it can be as easily regulated as those who possess a firearm.

Q: Why should crossbows be regulated the same way as a firearm – are they not different?

They are different in terms of construction, so they don’t fit within the definition of a firearm (as they don’t have a barrel) and the existing legislation would have to be adapted significantly to bring crossbows into line with firearms.

However, it is clear that in terms of lethality there is very little difference between the type of crossbow used to kill Shane and injure Laura and a shotgun or rifle.

It would be relatively straightforward to mirror the existing licensing regime for shotguns and firearms to apply to crossbows. The template for a proper licensing regime is there, within the 1968 Firearms Act and the Home Office Guide on Firearms. The 1968 Act regulates the sale, possession, transfer and use of firearms and ensures that only persons of sound mind, temperate habits, with adequate security and a good reason to use a firearm can obtain, transfer or possess them. Only those persons who are registered as firearms dealers can sell firearms and ammunition (to those who have a shotgun / firearms certificate).

Essentially, the police have the power to revoke certificates and seize weapons if they feel that there is a danger to public safety or the peace, or if they believe the certificate holder to be of unsound mind. Any aggrieved person who has their certificate revoked can appeal to a Crown Court for the firearms and certificates can be returned.

Not all firearms are regulated and less powerful crossbows could potentially escape regulation on the basis of not being ‘lethal’ in much the same way as air rifles. A simple method would be to regulate the sale and possession of crossbows with a draw weight of more than 1.4 kg (as per the Crossbow Act 1987) and to adopt a licensing regime only for more powerful (lethal) weapons.

Q: The government have said that there are already controls in place relating to the sale/purchase and possession of crossbows why do we need a change in the law?

At present the only legislation that is currently in place to specifically address the sale, purchase and ownership of a crossbow is the Crossbow Act 1987. This Act prohibits the sale, purchase and ownership of a crossbow to anyone under the age of 18. There is also legislation in place prohibiting the use of a crossbow to hunt and carrying a crossbow in public. This is however the extent of the legislation in place to prevent the injury or death of a person by using a crossbow.

At present there is nothing in theory to prevent a person suffering from severe mental health issues, with convictions for domestic violence, in the process of an acrimonious divorce and subject to a protection from harassment order from ordering a powerful crossbow online or by walking into a shop selling them. That may be an extreme example, but the dangers are blindingly obvious.

The Home Office makes reference to them having legislation in place to prosecute someone who uses a crossbow to carry out an assault on someone, however this legislation is reactive and not preventative. It is too little too late for the family of someone who has been killed by a crossbow or by the person who has received serious and devastating injuries as a result of one being used on them.

Q: What do you want to achieve by a change in law?

Gemma says: We do not want to ban the sale or purchase of a crossbow, nor do we want to prevent someone from owning one if they want it for a legitimate reason. What we want is for the sale and use of crossbows being regulated in line with the current regulation of firearms.

This would mean that anyone who would want to buy and own a crossbow would have to apply for a license and be assessed by their local police force. This would ensure that the police are aware of who possesses, uses and can access a crossbow in the UK and where they are kept in the property. It also means that if there were any concerns at all about someone’s mental health or behaviour the weapons could be seized for investigations to be carried out or their license revoked.

The indication given by the firearms officer at Shane’s Inquest was that this weapon was a danger to the police, requiring an armed response to an incident where it is known that one was being used. Furthermore, because crossbows are not currently regulated there was no way for the police to know how many crossbows Shane’s killer possessed, or where they were being kept in the property. This meant that they did not know whether when he left on foot he had more in his possession, which increased the risk to the ambulance service and the unarmed police in attending to Shane’s injuries when he was bleeding out in the property.

Q: Where can we find more information about crossbows and specifically Shane Gilmer’s case?

We have written a number of articles about the Shane Gilmer case here:

• Prevention of Future Deaths Report Released Following Shane Gilmer Inquest (May 2021)
• UK Campaign To Change The Law Governing Crossbows (April 2021)
• Jury Return Conclusion At The Inquest Into The Death Of Shane Adrian Gilmer (April 2021)
• Ison Harrison Help Family Look For Answers In Tragic Death of Shane Gilmer (April 2021)

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Is there anything worse than lining up the perfect shot and having it miss because you didn’t check your bowstring? When it comes to your bow, it’s the bowstring that will go first. To keep this from happening at the worst of times, you need to know how to tell if your bowstring has gone or is about to go bad.

This article will focus on compound bows, but only because compound bows have more string issues than more traditional bows. This means that, if you’re using a longbow or a recurve bow, then you’ll also be able to find answers about your bowstring in this article because there are six key signs we look for:

Sign 1: Spotting a broken string or cable is a clear sign that your bowstring has gone bad and the only way to fix it is to replace it.

Sign 2: A frayed bowstring isn’t quite broken yet, but it is very close and will negatively affect your shooting experience, you can apply wax in an attempt to keep it together, but it is often best to just replace it.

Sign 3: As the string is pulled back shot after shot, stretching can occur. This is why you need to know how to recognize if you’ve overstretched your bowstring. Your bowstring will need to be replaced more often for stretching if you use it a lot.

Sign 4: As your bowstring gets older, there is a very real chance that it will stop being as waxy as it should be. A dried out bowstring is a sign that your string is going bad.

Sign 5: A bowstring is typically covered in a layer of thread called the serving. When this starts to separate from the string, you have an issue. This can be kept together with some tender care, but it is often a sign to replace your string soon.

Sign 6: Finally, if your bowstring is getting old, then it may be a good idea to replace it anyway because it’s just inviting problems. The older a string gets, the less structurally stable it is, and it is typically safer to replace before use.

So there you have it, six signs that your bowstring is going to need replacing. But if you really want to learn about each of these, then you will need to stick around to read the rest of the article.

Sign 1: A Broken String

This is the easiest problem to spot because it stands out. If you’re using a longbow or a recurve bow, then it will be literally impossible not to spot this problem. A compound bow will be a little different, however.

A compound bow doesn’t just have the main bowstring the way that a longbow does but rather it has quite a few cables that help in firing. These cables are all just as important as your main bowstring and, if any of them have broken, then you will have a hard time firing correctly.

These days, the material used for the strings and cables on your bow are most likely a highly durable fibre. These break less often than classic bowstrings, which had been made either from plants or the hide of hunted animals. However, these new synthetic fibres can break.

When you’re packing your hunting or target shooting gear, before you even leave the house, make sure you check your bow for any broken strings. If you are still new to archery and don’t know everything, you should check on your compound bow, then simply run your finger along each string and cable to see if it is broken anywhere.

Once you get to where you’ll be shooting, go ahead and check the strings one more time. This is a smart idea to do before you start shooting. Plus, if you run the finger test mentioned above, then this habit will also let you catch the next sign of a bowstring gone bad.

Sign 2: A Frayed String

A frayed string is harder to spot than a broken string because a frayed string is still fully connected. However, some part of the string is being rubbed against a solid object, and such can happen where the string meets the bow, or it is simply experiencing too much tension through usage and is starting to fray.

While a bowstring is made out of lots of fibres, they are worked into a string because each individual fibre isn’t very large. As these tiny strings begin to break apart, you see the larger overall bowstring fraying. If it is left without maintenance for a long time, eventually, a frayed bowstring will break.

If you are checking your gear before you leave the house, then you have the perfect opportunity to spot fraying. Many people notice that their bowstring is starting to fray, yet they keep using it anyway. They seem to think it will be easier to use the string a little longer than it is to simply replace it. They might even add some wax or something to the bowstring to keep it together, but there is no way to fix a frayed bowstring.

The section of your bowstring that is fraying represents the weakest part of your bow. As you continue to use it, you only manage to make it weaker. Eventually, the string has to snap, but you will be unable to predict when. It will happen when it does.

If you’re drawing an arrow when it snaps, which is likely considering how fraying happens, you are at risk of major injury. A string breaking on a compound bow has been known to cut through flesh and even muscle. Always, always check your string for fraying before use.

Sign 3: A Stretched String

Stretching your bowstring is the most important part of archery. If you can’t stretch your bowstring, then you can’t shoot an arrow. So, just how exactly can a stretched string be a bad sign?

What happens when you are shooting an arrow is that you are creating a tension in the bowstring. You are pulling it back when it wants to be at its resting position. When you let go of the bowstring it snaps back to this position. However, drawing back and firing your bow in this manner causes a release of energy within the bowstring, then on to the arrow. The more often you shoot, the more energy we are talking about. This energy appears in how the bowstring will start to stretch a little bit more each time it is fired.

As your bowstring begins to stretch, there isn’t much to worry about. It happens naturally anyway, and a little bit of stretch doesn’t really mess with your accuracy. But, as this continues, there will be a clear effect. More energy from each shot is absorbed by the bowstring, resulting in less energy making it to the arrow, thus also resulting in weak and inaccurate shots.

The stretching of the bowstring is called creep, and it typically happens somewhere between shooting 50 to 100 arrows. The fibers in the bowstring are being stretched out, making the string itself longer. Creep happens most often due to shooting, but poor storage of a bow in an overly hot location will also produce creep.

The only way to fix a stretched bowstring is to change it. You can’t shrink down a stretched string; you can only throw it out. Before you head out into the woods for some archery, try drawing back your bowstring a couple of times to see if it is as taut as it is supposed to be. If it isn’t, then you should replace the string.

This is one of the more common ways for your bowstring to go bad, as it happens naturally based on how much you are using it. Depending on the number of arrows you are shooting in a session, this could be a long time coming, or it could happen in a single afternoon. How often you experience a stretched string is entirely up to how much you shoot. If you shoot a lot, then you’ll want to keep extra bowstrings on hand whenever you go out.

Sign 4: A Dry String

A bowstring should be waxy. You may find that the string’s feeling in y0ur hand and fingers isn’t particularly pleasant; after all, when you first picture using a bow, you probably didn’t imagine the string as being waxy. However, this aspect is actually important for the string. A waxy bowstring is a functional bowstring, whereas a bowstring that has dried out is difficult to work with and reduces accuracy while increasing the risk of breaking.

Your bowstring needs to be waxed periodically. This is done by using a wax stick. These pretty much just look like a tube of lip balm, except you would run it over your bowstring rather than your lips. After you go over the string with the stick, make sure you use your thumb and forefinger to go over the string and work the wax into it fully. You can tell your string needs to be waxed when it feels dry to the touch, or if you see small hairs sticking out.

These hairs sticking out from the bowstring are often described as “furry” as in “I have a furry bowstring.” It is this furry look that is the most disconcerting. The furry aspect of the bowstring comes from where the fibres that make up the string are starting to wear. A fresh waxing will help to keep the hairs in place and looking slick but it isn’t the end all solution. In time, you will find that your bowstring is looking furrier and furrier.

As a bowstring begins to reach the end of its life, it gains more issues staying waxy. You will find yourself needing to apply wax more and more often to prevent it from becoming furry. When this starts to happen ,you know that you’ll need to replace your bowstring very soon. This is because a dry bowstring leads to a furry bowstring, which then leads to a frayed bowstring.

So, not only do you need to check your bowstring to see if it is dry or waxy, but you will also need to pay attention to how often you are waxing it as well. It is a good idea to keep a record of how often you are waxing your bowstring. This can be on a calendar or in a notebook, but it can be just as easy to keep the record in your phone. Seeing how often you need to wax will help you to get a better sense of how long the bowstring will last overall.

Sign 5: A Seperated String

A bowstring is covered by a layer referred to as the serving. This is a thread that covers up the fibres of string. Compound bows also have serving overtop of the various cables that the bow uses. The serving is mostly there to go over the nocking area of the bowstring and help keep the arrow in the same position, firing with the same amount of power.

A compound bow has serving typically over any of the areas where the bowstring or one of the cables comes into contact with any of the pieces of the bow, like the roller guard or string stop. Those who use a compound bow must make checking the serving a part of their regular maintenance and check-up. This begins with the bowstring but then stretches out into the other areas where the serving has been added.

Serving should be a tight coil that wraps around the bowstring. But, because it is still made out of a fiber, it can break just as easily as your bowstring itself. Over time, the serving begins to separate and come apart from the string and cables that it is protecting.

When checking your serving, keep in mind that you should replace any you see that are starting to separate. However, the serving around the nocking area is absolutely the most important, and it must be changed immediately because it will have a direct effect on your shot, your accuracy, and the safety of the bow itself.

Sign 6: An Old String

The final reason is that you simply have a bowstring that is too old. All of the previous signs arise from the use of the bow itself. Each part of the bow degrades over time due to repetitive use. This is a natural part of archery and something that every archer needs to learn to deal with.

However, another issue that could cause your bowstring to degrade is time. You should never, ever have a bowstring on your bow that is more than two years old. The same goes for the cables used by a compound bow. If you are firing your bow regularly, then you’ll never make it this long without replacing them, but if it’s in storage, then it is easy to let a lot of time go by before using it again. Replace the bowstring before you hit this range.

If you’ve never had to change a bowstring before, don’t worry; it really isn’t that hard. This informative video will walk you through how to change your string and your compound cables:

You can purchase new strings for your bow individually or in bulk. I like making use of both from time to time. For example, I like to keep a lot of strings around, but I’ll also splurge from time to time to get a more expensive string like this one. I find it helps give a sense of the real difference between bowstrings. Spoiler: often there is very little.

Old strings should not be trusted. As much as you may just want the ability to pull your bow out of storage and give it a couple shots, it is always best to replace the string prior to shooting. There is not a set timeframe that works to set when a string should or shouldn’t be replaced, but I won’t shoot a string that hasn’t been tested in over a year. It is just safer to replace it with a new one and check all the pieces in the process.

Outro

So there you have it—six ways you can tell that your bowstring is going bad, ranging from the obvious to the more stealthy. The important thing to understand about this topic is that none of what you read matters in the least if you don’t put it into practice.

This means that you absolutely must make checking your bowstring a regular part of using your bow. You should never, under any circumstances, start shooting your bow before you have inspected it. Your bow may be a simpler weapon compared to a hunting rifle, but it requires just as much care and respect to keep it firing correctly.

So, next time you’re ready to hit the range or woods to start taking some shots, make sure you stop and inspect your string first. It’ll make your life a thousand times easier in the long run.

Sandhill crane hunting is more popular than ever, with hunters drawn to the challenge and reward of “The Rib Eye of the Sky.” In North America, there are six subspecies of sandhill cranes. Three are non-migratory, staying in one area year-round. The other three are migratory and travel from Northern Canada to Mexico. Seventeen U.S. states are sandhill crane hunting states. Still, federal regulations set the stage for anyone who wants to pursue them. There are some requirements and a critical program with which to register. After that, it’s up to you to decide where you want to go hunting.

Federal Laws for Sandhill Crane Hunting

Sandhill crane hunting is subject to most federal waterfowl regulations. These rules include using shotguns to take with a maximum capacity of three shells and only using a nontoxic shot. The federal government also prohibits using live decoys, hunting from vehicles, or using bait to draw in sandhill cranes.

All sandhill crane hunters must register in the Harvest Information Program (HIP) for migratory game birds. You can do this through the state’s wildlife department you plan to hunt in. Although it is a federal program, some states require you to register with them.

Suppose you have been duck or goose hunting before. In that case, you know about the Federal Migratory Bird Hunting and Conservation Stamp, commonly referred to as the Federal Duck Stamp. Some state regulations do not require the Duck Stamp for sandhill cranes.

In contrast, others explicitly say it is necessary. Defer to the state wildlife department you plan to hunt in to make sure. Now that the countrywide rules have been made clear, it’s time to list the states that allow sandhill crane hunting within their borders.

Alabama

If you’re looking for sandhill cranes in Alabama, you better go north into the Tennessee River Valley or the Weiss Reservoir on the Coosa River. Alabama offers sandhill crane hunting for Alabama residents in the northern part of the state through an annual draw. The season bag limit is three.

Licenses Required:

• Alabama hunting license
• Annual State Duck Stamp or Lifetime Duck Stamp
• Alabama Sandhill Crane permit
• Sandhill Crane Identification certification

Alaska

Most sandhill cranes in Alaska migrate through the Copper River Delta or the Tanana Valley near Delta Junction-Georgia Lake. As many as 50,000 cranes fly through this Alaskan funnel daily, many from Siberia. Sandhill cranes are subject to fall/winter hunting season dates based on the specific Alaskan Unit you are hunting in. All units have a daily bag limit of two.

Licenses Required:

• Alaskan hunting license

Arizona

Sandhill cranes go way back in Arizonan history. People still find ancient petroglyphs of these birds etched into stones along the Gila River. Arizona offers sandhill crane hunting in select areas through an annual draw. The Grand Canyon State issued a total of 580 tags for the 2021-22 season, with a season bag limit of three.

Licenses Required:

• Arizona Migratory Bird Stamp
• Arizona Sandhill Crane permit

Colorado

Colorado offers an open sandhill crane hunting season. Sandhills are the only species of crane found in the Rocky Mountain State. Before the first hunting trip of the season, hunters must call 1-877-COLOHIP or register at ColoHIP.com and obtain permit numbers. All areas east of the Continental Divide except North Park and the San Luis Valley are available for sandhill crane hunting from Oct. 1 – Nov. 27, 2022, with a daily bag limit of three.

Licenses Required:

• Colorado Small Game license
• Colorado Sandhill Crane permit

Idaho

Idaho’s vast plains and valleys are a significant stop along the sandhill crane migratory route. The state holds sandhill crane hunting seasons in the eastern part through an annual draw. In 2021, the state of Idaho issued 610 sandhill crane tags with seasons running throughout September. The daily and season limit is two cranes.

Licenses Required:

• Idaho hunting license
• Idaho Sandhill Crane tag

Kansas

Sandhill crane hunting is available in the central and western Kansas zones during the fall and winter months. The daily bag limit for sandhill cranes in Kansas is three. The Kansas crane hunting season dates have the same start and duration from year to year.

The Western Zone Season begins on the third Saturday in October and continues for 58 days, including the opening day. The Central Zone Season will commence on the Wednesday after the first Saturday in November and shall continue for 58 days, including the opening day.

Licenses Required:

• Kansas Sandhill Crane permit

Kentucky

There is an annual draw for Kentucky sandhill crane permits, with applications opening and closing in September. The season runs through December and January with a daily bag limit of two.

Licenses Required:

• Kentucky hunting license
• Kentucky Sandhill Crane permit

Minnesota

Sandhill cranes used to thrive in the Great Lakes region until humans settled down there. There are two separate populations in Minnesota today. Minnesota offers an open sandhill crane hunting season in the northwest portion of the state. The sandhill crane season runs from Sept. 18 – Oct. 24, with a daily bag limit of two.

Licenses Required:

• Minnesota small game license
• Minnesota Sandhill Crane permit

Montana

Montana has sandhill crane hunting in select areas through permits issued in an annual draw. The Montana season runs from Sept. 1 – Oct. 30, with a bag limit of either one or two depending on the specific area the permit is issued for.

Licenses Required:

• MT Migratory License
• Conservation License
• Base Hunting License

New Mexico

New Mexico offers Free Regular Season Eastern Sandhill Crane permits and a Draw-Season Sandhill Crane permit. In 2021, New Mexico issued 540 Draw-Season sandhill crane permits. The daily bag limit is three.

License Requirements:

• Harvest Information Program (HIP) registration
• Game Hunting License or Game Hunting & Fishing License
• Sandhill Crane Permit

North Dakota

North Dakota has an open sandhill crane hunting season beginning in September 2022. The daily bag limit for Unit 1 is three, and the daily bag limit for Unit 2 is two.

Resident License Requirements:

• Harvest Information Program (HIP) registration
• Fishing, Hunting, and Furbearer Certificate
• Small Game License
• General Game and Habitat License or Combination License
• Sandhill Crane Permit

Nonresident License Requirements:

• Fishing, Hunting, and Furbearer Certificate
• General Game and Habitat License
• Valid Nonresident Small Game License or Valid Nonresident Waterfowl License
• Sandhill Crane Permit

Oklahoma

Western Oklahomans know the call of a sandhill crane. The state is a thoroughfare on their migratory pattern. Sandhill crane hunting is available in the state of Oklahoma. Contact your local Oklahoma Department of Wildlife Conservation office for specific season dates and limits.

License Requirements:

• Valid Oklahoma Hunting License
• Federal Sandhill Crane Permit

South Dakota

South Dakota offers an open sandhill crane hunting season from Sept. 24 – Nov. 20, 2022. The daily bag limit is three.

Licenses Required:

• Residents: Combination or Small Game hunting license
• Nonresidents: Nonresident Small Game or Nonresident Waterfowl license.
• South Dakota Migratory Bird Certification.

Tennessee

Tennessee offers sandhill crane hunting in select areas through an annual draw.

Licenses Required:

• Tennessee Sandhill Crane Tag
• Sandhill Crane Identification Test

Texas

192 of 254 Texas counties have sandhill crane seasons from October through January. Texas requires a “Federal Sandhill Crane Hunting Permit,” but this appears to be a state requirement and is only available through the Texas Parks and Wildlife.

Licenses Required:

• Valid Texas Hunting license
• Texas Migratory Game Bird Stamp Endorsement
• Federal Sandhill Crane Hunting Permit

Utah

Utah offers sandhill crane hunting in select areas through an annual draw. If you don’t plan on hunting for grouse or cranes this year, Utah has a yearly preference point application that will improve your chances of winning a draw if you decide to apply the following year.

Licenses Required:

• Utah combination hunting license or Utah small game license
• Utah Sandhill Crane permit

Wyoming

Wyoming offers an open season for lesser sandhill cranes and a permit quota season for greater sandhill cranes. The daily bag limit for the general sandhill crane permit is three, and the season bag limit for the quota sandhill crane permit is one.

Licenses Required:

• Residents: resident game bird or game bird/small game hunting license
• Non Residents: nonresident game bird/small game hunting license
• Hunter Safety Certificate
• Wyoming Conservation Stamp
• Wyoming Sandhill Crane permit

Regulations change annually, so check with the local wildlife department before the season starts to get up-to-date information on rules and permits. Participating in a sandhill crane hunt is both a challenging and rewarding experience, but luckily, there are many options regarding where to do it.

This article was originally published on May 17, 2022.

READ MORE: ALL THE UPLAND GAME BIRDS YOU CAN HUNT IN AMERICA

Air rifle pellets have been traditionally made of lead or lead alloy. However, in recent years, manufacturers have experimented with different materials, such as bismuth and tin alloys, iron, zinc, and tin. Some pellets are even made of plastic. In this blog post, we will explore the different materials air rifle pellets can be made of and the advantages and disadvantages of each.

Why are airgun pellets made of lead?

The traditional material for airgun pellets is lead because it is soft and malleable. This means it can be deformed upon impact without shattering, which makes it ideal for use in air rifles. Lead is also relatively heavy for its size, which gives it good momentum when fired from an air rifle.

One of the disadvantages of lead pellets is that they can be harmful to the environment if not disposed of properly. Lead is a toxic metal that can leach into the soil and contaminate groundwater. It can also be harmful to animals if ingested. For these reasons, some countries have banned the use of lead pellets altogether.

Copper-coated airgun pellets

Copper-coated airgun pellets are made by coating a lead pellet with a thin layer of copper. The copper coating protects the lead core from corrosion and makes the pellet more aerodynamic. Copper-coated pellets are generally more accurate than traditional lead pellets because they are less affected by crosswinds.

The main disadvantage of copper-coated pellets is that they are more expensive than traditional lead pellets. Copper is a more expensive metal than lead, so copper-coated pellets typically cost 20-30% more than their lead counterparts.

Lead-free airgun pellets

Lead-free airgun pellets are made of alternative metals, such as alloys of bismuth and tin – or iron, zinc, and tin. These alternative metals are less dense than lead, so they are not as effective for long-range shooting. Lead-free pellets are also less aerodynamic than traditional lead pellets, so they are less accurate in crosswinds.

The advantage of lead-free pellets is that they are not harmful to the environment like traditional lead pellets can be. Lead is a toxic metal that can leach into the soil and contaminate groundwater. It can also be harmful to animals if ingested. For these reasons, some countries have banned the use of lead bullets altogether.

Conclusion

There are a few different materials that air rifle bullets can be made out of, each with their own advantages and disadvantages. The most common material has traditionally been lead or a lead alloy because it is soft and malleable ( meaning it can be deformed on impact without shattering) , relatively heavy ,and inexpensive . However ,lead bullets can be harmful to the environment if not disposed properly . As an environmentally friendly alternative , some people choose copper -coated bullets ,which despite being more aerodynamic and accurate ,are significantly more expensive . Finally , there are lead -free bullets made out of alternative metals such as bismuth ,tin ,iron ,zinc ,and plastic . While being eco -friendly ,these alternatives lack the range and accuracy of both traditional lead bullets and copper -coated bullets .

Millions of years of isolation on a continent of extremes has seen Australia evolve some pretty freaky animals.

We’ve got kangaroos that live in trees, sex-crazed antechinus and snakes capable of delivering enough venom to kill dozens of humans with a single bite.

There are a lot of tall tales when it comes to our fantastical fauna and it can sometimes be pretty hard to tell fact from fiction.

So much so that we couldn’t fit every Australian animal “myth” into one article.

So here’s part two of debunking Australian animal “myths” (spoiler: you’ve probably guessed by now but the quotation marks are there because despite our better instincts, some of these myths turned out to be true).

If you missed part one or you like reading terrible things about quokkas, you can catch it here.

And if you’ve got any more Australian animal myths you want busted (or confirmed), let us know.

Do dogs prefer facing north to poo?

OK, so this article is about native animals and sure, most dogs aren’t native.

But we’re shoehorning this in because the Australian dingo qualifies as native under federal environmental law, and this is just too good a rumour not to look into.

Have you ever seen a dog doing circles before settling on a spot to poo?

If you’re like most rational people, you’ve probably filed this alongside such dog behaviours as growling at the doormat, howling at sirens and chasing one’s own tail.

But thankfully, researchers from the Czech University of Life Sciences Prague aren’t like most rational people, and decided to investigate.

They monitored 70 different dogs of 37 breeds making 1,893 bowel motions and 5,582 wee stops over a two-year period.

At first, the orientation of the dogs appeared fairly random.

But there can be local variations in the strength and direction of the Earth’s magnetic field, which is measured by geometric observatories.

When they excluded days of magnetic instability, they found our canine friends were picking up on some serious electromagnetism.

“Analysis … of dogs sampled during calm magnetic field conditions revealed a highly significant axial preference for north-south defecation,” they wrote in their paper published in Frontiers in Zoology.

According to their data, the dogs showed a strong preference for facing either north or south when relieving themselves, and significantly had an almost complete aversion for aligning their bodies on an east-west axis.

Other animals such as birds are known to be able to detect electromagnetic fields, which they use for navigation, so it’s not a huge stretch to presume dogs might also have this capacity.

However, it’s unclear what evolutionary benefit there could be for a dog to align themselves north-south while heeding the call of nature.

And this is only one research paper that doesn’t even look at dingoes specifically.

Still, if you’re ever lost in the bush and have your dog with you, you could use this as a way to get your north bearing.

But remember it’s magnetic north, and probably not accurate on days of magnetic variability.

So, it’s probably best to still use a compass.

Do kangaroos lure their predators to watery graves?

Kangaroos have a reputation for being pretty feisty — especially during the mating season.

When the big males are fighting each other or an unwitting passerby, they can be a pretty intimidating presence.

But as grass eaters, surely they’ve no reason to use violence outside the competition for mating rights? Right?

There is, however, a rumour doing the rounds that if kangaroos are being chased by predators, they’ll lead them into water, and drown them.

The verdict? True, but it’s a question of intent.

“There’s a very strong instinct — kangaroos will go to water if they’re threatened by a predator,” kangaroo ecologist Graeme Coulson from the University of Melbourne says.

Dr Coulson says his neighbour lost two dogs that way.

“It was a bull terrier that went in and it was drowned. Then he got another dog, another bull terrier, and it died the same way.

“So he got a third dog, and he kept it locked up.”

But given kangaroos get no benefit from killing an animal, it’s likely they’re actually entering the water in the hope they’re not followed.

Running into water is a common defence mechanism for a number of herbivores, according to Matt Hayward from the University of Newcastle.

“In Africa, herbivores do the same thing — they run into water if they’re being chased,” Professor Hayward says.

“I’ve seen wild dogs chase impala into dams.

“I’ve seen buffalo waiting in water surrounding by hyenas.

“But they tend to just wait [in the water] until the animal gets bored.

“I don’t think it’s about trying to drown them.”

Is it true whales and dolphins don’t get cancer?

There’s a curious paradox when it comes to whales and cancer.

Because of their huge size, they have vastly more cells than humans and should therefore be at much greater risk of cancerous cell mutations.

However, the opposite is true: the occurrence of cancer in whales as well as other cetaceans like dolphins is far lower than in people — a phenomenon known as Peto’s paradox.

Research published this year in Proceedings of the Royal Society B found that cetaceans have rapidly evolving tumour suppressor genes (TSGs).

These can slow down cell division, repair mistakes in our DNA and kill off cancerous cells before they spread out of control.

According to the researchers, the tumour suppressor gene turnover rate — the rate that genes are gained and lost through mutation — is 2.4 times faster in cetaceans than other mammals.

And they think this has allowed whales to develop a more efficient system of preventing cancer as they evolved their large body size.

But there’s a difference between less cancer and no cancer, according to marine and estuarine ecologist Olaf Meynecke from Griffith University, who says the idea that whales never get cancer is a myth.

“They get ulcers, uncontrolled cell growth and even skin cancer,” Dr Meynecke says.

“I am not sure who put the myth out there, but clearly someone who has not looked at a whale closely.”

Can black cockatoos signal that rain is on the way?

According to folklore, when black cockatoos take wing, there’s rain on the way.

Depending on where in Australia you are, you may have heard this applied to red-tailed black cockatoos, yellow-tailed black cockatoos, or to Carnaby’s black cockatoos — the so-called “rainbird”.

Obviously rain doesn’t fall every time a black cockatoo flaps its wings, but there may some broad truth to the claim, according to bird expert Bob Doneley from the University of Queensland.

“There is absolutely no way I would discount this,” Professor Doneley says.

“Most of this is built on observations by Indigenous people as well as people living in the bush and being familiar with the birds’ body language.”

Rain is a cue for many birds to become more active and in some cases, to breed, he said.

They’ll be more likely to be moving around more, and actively calling and vocalising, which increases the chances that people will notice them.

“That will look to us ignorant people like birds flying around, getting excited.”

For the Carnaby’s black cockatoo, their migration coincides with the rain season, according to Adam Peck from BirdLife Australia.

Carnaby’s migrate to the wheat belt at the time when the winter rains start, and the success of their breeding season depends on how much rain falls, he says.

What isn’t completely understood yet is how exactly the birds know rain is on the way, according to Professor Doneley.

“It’s probably to do with changes in the air — the humidity, even the sound of distant thunder,” he says.

“There are millions of years of genetic evolution for birds to know when rain is going to arrive.”

To spot and stalk or ambush hunt — that is the question

I have always been plagued with that dilemma ever since I started down this venture we call hunting. Growing up, we always still hunted or ambush hunted. I really wasn’t exposed to spot and stalk hunting until a few years ago. When I did go down the spot and stalk path, I couldn’t help but just want to find somewhere where I could sit and wait for that bear or buck to walk by though. In turn, when I was ambush hunting, I couldn’t stop thinking about what I could be seeing if I was glassing at that time. It was definitely a “grass is greener on the other side” scenario for me and, sometimes, it still is.

So which is better?

I feel like there really isn’t a concrete answer for this question. Everybody is different and different situations call for different types of hunting strategies. For instance, it wouldn’t be the best idea to spot and stalk hunt in country where you couldn’t see 10’ in front of you. This would call for more of a still hunting/ambush hunting approach. The whole idea behind spot and stalk is to spot the animal from a good distance away and plan a stalk in order to get close enough for a shot. Could that be done in dense country? Yes, it could. Is it the most productive way of hunting there? In my opinion, no. Let’s take a look at both applications.

Spot and stalk

This is by far my favorite way to hunt. Sitting on a high vantage point and overlooking vast open country with my binoculars brings a calming feeling to me. It’s like a never ending puzzle that is begging to be solved. Where will you see the animals? What animals will you see? Will you even see anything? If you do, how are you going to make your approach? I have learned more about deer hunting this way than any other animal. It is such an added benefit, in my opinion, to be able to sit there and watch animals from a long ways away act like themselves and do their thing. What part of the hill do they tend to walk on? What facing slope are they choosing over the others? Where are they bedding? That one is the most important, especially for a spot and stalk bowhunter. If you can glass a deer up and actually watch where it beds, now the game has really begun. Being able to do this is going to give you a lot more time to get over to where that animal is because you really don’t need to worry too much about that animal moving its position. Also, if you have never experienced the rush of sneaking up on a bedded deer or herd of elk, you are missing out. This is where our natural predatory instincts kick in and they are put to the ultimate test. Try it out sometime.

Ambush hunting

This type of hunting brings its own set of adrenaline rush. I can remember being a kid and sitting up against a tree with my dad. It was the first archery hunt that I had ever gone on. The day before we saw two or three amazing mule deer bucks and found a prominent trail leading up a fence line right towards where we were positioned for the morning. Just as the sun was peaking over the hillside in front of me, I saw antlers along with it. A beautiful old buck with a gray patch on his back slowly worked his way down towards me. I was so shaken up, I literally couldn’t pick up my bow. The old warrior walked right past me at 10 yards without an arrow to his name. That deer still haunts me.

Continued below.

Ambush hunting can be the most boring experience known to mankind, especially if you are a little kid. I have had the thought of bringing an audio book with me into the blind or perhaps a podcast. The hard nose in me says that this will take away from my experience and that those things don’t belong in the mountains and maybe they don’t. The plus with it, though, is that if you do see something, chances are you are going to be presented with a shot. I will admit that it is a very exciting experience hearing something walking towards you and not being able to see it until it comes into view. There is no better way to get close to game than letting the game get close to you.

Which method is the best way to go?

I am afraid that only you can answer that question. How do you prefer to hunt? If you don’t care, then take a look at the country you will be hunting. What application do you think is going to lend success? I myself prefer to spot and stalk as I have stated above. Because of this, I try to find country that allows me to do so. The past few months, I have been fighting with myself on how to approach my next spring bear hunt. In the past it has been a constant battle of spot and stalk or ambush hunting. In the end, I decided to do what makes me happy and plays to my strengths, successful or not. If you like sitting in a blind or treestand, then do it! If you’re like me and enjoy looking through your optics and playing “Where’s Waldo?” with the quarry you seek, then do it! You write your own story.

One of the first upgrades you can do to a Glock is adding the best Glock sights. The standard Glock sights are lacking, and many people do not like them.

Adding the best Glock sights will increase your accuracy and be able to shoot quicker, especially if you are used to a three-dot sight setup.

Because of the popularity of Glocks, there are a lot of options, and this post will recommend the best Glock sights you can buy.

This post will review the best Glock sights for every generation and model.

Why Upgrade Your Glock Sights?

Nothing is better than upgrading and modifying guns and especially Glocks. Now I will say from the factory, out of the box, they are great guns, and you can take it to the range or use it for home defense, and it’s ready to go as is.

However, upgrading your Glock will make it better and more user-friendly to your specific preference.

Swapping out the sights is a quick and easy upgrade. There are a lot of different options to choose from.

If you are getting older and your eyesight isn’t as good as it used to be, getting some bright or high-contrast iron sights will help you aim.

Also, adding a night sight is great for home defense or concealed carry.

Upgrading your sights can be done fairly inexpensively and are worth it.

Increased Accuracy

You can shoot what you can’t see, and having some high-visibility sights will help you shoot more accurately.

The square notch that comes standard on all Glocks as a rear sight is okay. It leaves a lot of room for improvement.

The more traditional three-dot sight setup and is what comes on most pistols and is what most shooters have become accustomed to.

Again, higher visibility iron sights and better contrast from the front to rear sight will increase your accuracy potential. This also depends on the shooter. If you can’t shoot, to begin with, then you need to practice the fundamentals, and no amount of accessories or upgrades will fix bad techniques.

Shooting Faster

You can pick up a sight picture quicker if you have better aftermarket sights on your Glock.

This will allow you to get on target quicker and transition between multiple targets quicker. Again, being able to see the sights and line up the front and rear is easier with raised or high-visibility sights.

With proper training and practice, you should notice a significant difference in your shooting speed with upgraded Glock sights.

How To Replace Your Glock Sights

There are two ways to change out your Glock sights. First, you can take your slide to a gunsmith or certified armorer, and they will do it for you.

This is easy, but they will charge you a fee, and you might have to wait a while, depending on how many work orders they have ahead of you.

The other option is to do it yourself. This is fairly easy as long as you have the proper tools, and I can’t stress that enough.

Being the way I am, impatient, the first time I swapped out pistol sights, I didn’t have the proper tools, and it wasn’t pleasant. I almost destroyed my sights and slide.

I pretty much beat the sights off with a hammer and punch. Almost destroyed both.

So learn from my mistakes and but the proper tools if you are doing it yourself.

You will need a sight pusher tool and a vice installed on a workbench. You may need a small punch set and a screwdriver set.

Be aware that the rear sight groove is thicker on one side, so when removing and installing the rear sight, it will only come off one way and go on that same side.

Click Here to check the current prices of the Trijicon Glock Sight Tool

Countless things go into achieving rifle accuracy, and just as many things can make a rifle shoot poorly and erode accuracy. So where do you look when your trusty rifle isn’t grouping like it used to, or when that new barrel burner isn’t shooting up to its price tag?

Many factory rifles now guarantee sub-MOA (minute of angle) accuracy at 100 yards. So, if you bought a rifle in the past five years and it can’t group five shots under an inch at 100 yards with premium ammunition, you should keep reading.

Here is a five-part diagnostic checklist that can solve many common accuracy problems.

Check for Rock Solid Scope Mounts and No Play in Sights

The first thing you need to check when your rifle is shooting poorly is the sighting system. Most of the rifles that come into my gunsmith shop for accuracy issues have loose sights. If your groups are all over the place with no rhyme or reason to the pattern, this is likely the problem.

Check iron sights by trying to move them with your hand. If there is any movement at all, they need to be fixed. Fortunately, there are many ways to tighten the fit of a dovetail sight. A metal shim, lightly peening the dovetail, and a drop of solder can solve this problem.

If a rifle is fitted with a scope, there are many more things that can go wrong. To start, make sure all the screws on the scope rings and bases are tight. If you find a loose one, you may have found the issue already, but beware, it’s important not to overtighten these screws since many rings and bases are made out of aluminum and the fine threads are prone to stripping. There are recommended torque settings for the screws in your rings and bases set by the manufacturer. Look them up, and use a torque wrench to lock everything down like it should be, and shoot again.

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Listen to What Your Brass is Saying

An empty brass casing can tell you all you need to know about your chamber. During the firing process, your brass makes a reverse imprint of the chamber, revealing any flaws that might be hard to see otherwise. Saving the brass from your day at the range can save you valuable time later and answer lots of questions if rifle accuracy problems arise.

First, look at the casing itself. Are there any bulges or odd discoloration near the mouth of the case? Next, look at the primer. The primer is your ignition system and can have significant effects on accuracy. I have seen rifles that were wildly inaccurate because of a broken firing pin that still managed to set off cartridge primers.

Whole chapters of books have been written about how primers look when things aren’t right. If you notice that your dimpled primers look different than they usually do, it may be time to take the rifle to a gunsmith.

RELATED – Muzzleloader Hunting: How to Remove a Stuck Projectile

Inspect the Crown

The crown is found at the muzzle of your barrel and is critical for rifle accuracy. It should be uniform and not have any burrs, dings, or dents.

Most crowns are designed to avoid damage to the critical areas, but they still can get beat up through years of use in the field. Taking your rifle to a gunsmith to recut a crown is a very common and inexpensive job that can solve some accuracy issues.

Ensure Rifling Twist Rate and Bullet Weight Are Compatible

Occasionally, the combination of certain rifling twist rates and bullet weights can kill a rifle’s accuracy. Diagnose this by looking at the impact of your bullets on paper at 50-100 yards. If your impacts look oblong or sometimes even sideways (keyholing), your bullet isn’t stabilizing properly and is tumbling on the way to the target. This is becoming a more common issue with modern calibers that use longer, heavier bullets with higher ballistic coefficients.

Your twist rate can be easily measured using a clothespin and cleaning rod and cross-checked with this chart to see if you are using the correct weight bullet. The fix for this problem is simple: try different bullet weights.

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Look To the Stock: Imperfect Bedding Can Kill Rifle Accuracy

The bedding on your rifle is critical for accurate shooting. The bedding is basically a reverse imprint of your action in the stock. A well-bedded action will have a consistent position from shot to shot. There have been countless articles written about glass bedding an action, (editor’s note: this is the best one), but how do you identify bedding as your rifle accuracy issue?

Start by shooting a group at 100 yards. A recoil lug that isn’t bedded properly can cause erratic groups without any consistency. On a wooden stock, a crack running from the recoil lug to the magazine box is a telltale sign of this problem.

If there is a pattern to your grouping, that can be used to troubleshoot bedding issues. A pattern that prints in a vertical string can usually be corrected by relieving the bottom of the barrel channel in the stock. Any horizontal trending groups are generally caused by uneven pressures on the sides of the barrel channel.

Some firearms, such as pre-’64 Winchester Model 70s, have a screw in the forearm used to adjust the tension and harmonics of your barrel.

Bedding issues can be fixed at home, but it is better to take it to someone who has done it before and is comfortable doing it.

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Know When to Take a Rifle to a Gunsmith

Unless you have access to a machinist buddy with a lathe, some of these fixes and adjustments must be made by a professional gunsmith. If you’re lucky, you already have a gunsmith that you know and trust to do work like this. If not, you can go here to get a walkthrough of the best ways to locate and get in touch with a gunsmith in your area.

One of the first things your gunsmith will likely ask after you present a rifle with accuracy problems is if you reload your own ammo. This is not the time to get defensive about your reloads. Explain exactly how you do it, and if it ends up being the problem, learn from it.

Keep your brass and give it to your gunsmith along with some of your unfired reloads. This will help them identify any ammunition-related accuracy problems for you.

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A Damascus Sword is any sword forged by Damascus Steel, high-grade steel made from Indian wootz steel using an ancient technology that was lost to history. Their surfaces might have vibrant whirling patterns. Damascus Steel, like Japanese folded steel, is the subject of numerous imaginative quality exaggerations, with swords claiming to be able to cut neatly through falling silk and cleave rocks in half.

The origin of the steel for the sword.

The term “Damascus Steel” has a hazy history. Two Islamic philosophers named Al-Kindi and Al-Biruni (approximately 800-873 CE) wrote about swords and the steels used to make them, describing them according to their look, the place where they were made or forged, or the name of the blacksmith. Additionally, both scholars cite “damscene” or “damascus” in parts of their descriptions of the swords.

How is Damascus steel made?

Since this process and expertise were lost in the 1700s, anyone who says their knives are made of Damascus steel does not refer to the original way they used to make them.

This steel was initially created by casting wootz, a type of steel first made in India more than 2000 years ago. In the third and fourth centuries, the city of Damascus, now known as modern-day Syria, saw a rise in the use of weapons and other objects fashioned of wootz.

Although several efforts have been made to reverse engineer the method for producing Damascus steel, no one has been able to cast an equivalent material.

Cast wootz steel was created by melting iron and steel with charcoal in an oxygen-free environment. Following the metal’s carbon absorption from charcoal, the alloy underwent a lengthy cooling process that produced a crystalline substance containing carbide.

Damascus steel is made by forging wootz into swords and other weaponry. However, this procedure was only available to the elite because it took great ability to maintain steady temperatures to manufacture steel with the iconic signature wavy pattern.

Why choose Damascus steel for swords?

Many producers choose between 2-5 alloys that work well together and create a beautiful pattern as a vital component in the process. Once the knife has been forged and ground to shape, the waves of steel meet at the edge, and you can change the blade’s performance by adjusting the alloy and heat treatment process.

If you want to acquire a high-quality Damascus steel sword, do your research and approach it as an investment.

Damascus steel is distinguished by its extraordinary hardness and a wet, streaked look created by the original material’s fluctuating carbon levels. Sometimes a single bar is welded together from different types of steel. Next, the bar is doubled over, welded, redoubled, and rewelded until the various layers of steel entangle, which is worked out to form the blade. 

The patterns created due to quenching and polishing are distinct and complicated. Damascus swords are primarily appraised by their wetness, which indicates the steel’s quality.

Conclusion

Finally, most of today’s highly exotic alloys outperform any pattern-welded steel. Therefore, having and using a Damascus steel blade is more about personal taste and respect for the time and effort it takes to create such a blade.

A well-made Damascus sword will hold its sharpness for longer than most production-quality blades, although the highest-performing blade steel may be found elsewhere.

Quality is mainly influenced by price. Damascus steel from a reputable manufacturer is of the finest quality. Knives manufactured from these steels are exceptional. 

Unfortunately, low-cost knockoffs from China, Pakistan, and India flood the market, frequently appearing on eBay and other online merchants. Avoid them because they are trash; as the saying goes, if the price is too reasonable to be true, it probably is.