There is a lot of misinformation out there about rabies. Some people believe that any wild animal can carry the virus, while others think that it’s only bats and raccoons that are at risk. So, what do you need to know about rabies and squirrels? Are they a danger to humans? Can they spread the disease? In this blog post, we’ll answer all your questions and set the record straight. Keep reading to learn more.

What is Rabies and How is it Transmitted?

Rabies is a viral disease that affects the nervous system and can be fatal. It’s usually transmitted through the bite of an infected animal, but it can also be spread if saliva from an infected animal gets into an open wound or the eyes, nose, or mouth. The virus then travels to the brain, where it causes inflammation and eventually death.

Do Squirrels Carry Rabies?

The short answer is no, squirrels do not carry rabies. Small rodents (like squirrels, hamsters, guinea pigs, gerbils, chipmunks, rats, and mice) and lagomorphs (including rabbits and hares) are almost never found to be infected with rabies and have not been known to transmit rabies to humans.

There are several reasons why squirrels are not a major risk for spreading rabies. Squirrels are small in size and have rapid metabolism. For example, if a rabid animal bites a squirrel, then the squirrel will die within a few hours. That’s why small rodents like squirrels, rats, and mice are unlikely to get infected by each other and spread the rabies infection. The rabies virus kills these small rodents within a few hours of being bitten before transmitting to other animals.

What animals carry rabies?

In the United States, bats, raccoons, skunks, and foxes are the most common animals that carry rabies. Squirrels are much less likely to be infected with the virus. In fact, there have been only two documented cases of squirrel-to-human rabies transmission in the United States, both of which occurred in 2003.

So, while it is technically possible for a squirrel to carry rabies, it’s extremely rare. If you are bitten by a squirrel, the chances of contracting the disease are very low.

Signs and Symptoms of Rabies in Squirrels

If a squirrel does happen to contract rabies, there are several signs and symptoms that you might see. These include:

-Paralysis of the hind legs

-Inability to eat or drink

-Excessive salivation or drooling

-Aggressive behavior

-Foaming at the mouth

-Incoordination

– Neurological problems

If you see a squirrel exhibiting any of these symptoms, it’s important to contact your local animal control or wildlife agency immediately. They will be able to safely remove the animal and test it for rabies. Do not attempt to capture the animal yourself.

Can You Get Rabies from Touching a Squirrel?

No, you cannot get rabies from touching a squirrel. The virus can only be transmitted through a bite or contact with saliva or other bodily fluids from an infected animal. So, even if a squirrel has rabies, you won’t contract the disease simply by petting it or touching its fur.

However, it’s still important to use caution when approaching any wild animal. Squirrels are wild animals and they can carry other diseases (like typhus and leptospirosis) that can be transmitted to humans. They can also carry fleas and ticks that can transmit these diseases to your pets. So, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and avoid contact with wild animals whenever possible.

Treatment for a Squirrel Bite

If you are bitten by a squirrel, the first thing you should do is wash the wound with soap and water for at least 5 minutes. Then, seek medical attention immediately. Your doctor will assess the risk of infection and determine if you need to receive any vaccinations or other treatment.

Can Squirrels Give Rabies to Dogs?

No, squirrels cannot give rabies to dogs. The virus can only be transmitted through a bite or contact with saliva or other bodily fluids from an infected animal. So, even if a squirrel has rabies, your dog won’t contract the disease simply by being in contact with it.

However, it’s still important to use caution when your dog is around wild animals. Squirrels are wild animals and they can carry other diseases (like typhus and leptospirosis) that can be transmitted to dogs. They can also carry fleas and ticks that can transmit these diseases to your pet. So, it’s always best to err on the side of caution and avoid contact with wild animals whenever possible.

Squirrels May Carry Other Diseases

While squirrels are not known to carry rabies, they can carry other diseases that can be transmitted to humans. These include:

-Typhus: Typhus is a bacterial disease that can be transmitted to humans through contact with infected fleas or lice. Symptoms of typhus include fever, headache, and rash. If left untreated, typhus can lead to serious complications or even death.

-Leptospirosis: Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that can be transmitted to humans through contact with contaminated water or soil. Symptoms of leptospirosis include fever, headache, and muscle pain. If left untreated, leptospirosis can lead to kidney damage or failure.

(Do Squirrels Eat Meat? See this post for more)

FAQs

How soon after being bitten should I seek medical attention?

If you’ve been bitten by any animal, it’s important to clean the wound and seek medical attention as soon as possible. Even if the animal does not appear to be sick, it’s always better to err on the side of caution. If you can’t get to a doctor right away, call your local animal control or police department and they can help you decide what to do.

Can I get rabies from a petting zoo?

No, you cannot get rabies from petting animals at a petting zoo. The animals in these types of zoos are typically vaccinated against the virus and are closely monitored for any signs of illness. However, it’s still important to wash your hands after petting any animal, as there may be other diseases that they can transmit.

Should I be worried about contracting rabies if I live in an area with a lot of squirrels?

No, you don’t need to worry about contracting rabies from squirrels if you live in an area where they are common. As we mentioned before, squirrels are very unlikely to be infected with the virus. Even if they were infected, they would likely die within a few hours due to their small size and rapid metabolism. So, the chances of a squirrel spreading the rabies virus to humans are very low.

Conclusion

To sum up, there is always a small chance that any animal could be infected with rabies, but it’s very unlikely in the case of squirrels. So, if you see one acting strangely, there’s no need to panic. Just keep your distance and call your local animal control or wildlife agency for advice. (See this post for more)

There are many versions of archery release aids, but the four most common types are: wrist strap index finger release, handheld thumb trigger release, handheld hinge release and the handheld resistance/tension type release. The features and best use of each release vary and there is a ton to consider when choosing an archery release aid. In this article, we will spend some time talking about the pros, cons, and scenarios for when you might use one over another.

Index finger releases

The most popular release aid among bowhunters is the wrist strap index finger style. A major advantage of this type of release is that it’s familiar to most hunters. Most people begin hunting with a rifle where a trigger is pulled or squeezed to activate the shot. An index finger archery release is similar in that it has a trigger that has to be pulled to fire the arrow. It gives the archer the ability to control the shot precisely. Its commonly called “command shooting,” meaning that the archer commands the trigger, pulling it when the pin sight sits exactly on the spot where they want the arrow to hit. This can be a real advantage in a hunting situation where an animal is moving through timber and you need to pick your spot and fire an arrow at an exact moment or when a breeze is blowing and you need to execute a shot when your pin is precisely in the location you need it to be.

Another advantage of most index finger releases is that they commonly come with a wrist strap (either a buckle or velcro strap). This ensures you always have your release ready at hand when you need it. You may also find that a wrist strap helps you to pull your bow back easier than some other release options because you can utilize your wrist and muscles in your arms and back to pull.

There is a lot to like about index finger releases, but, for many of us, using an index finger release can eventually lead to “target panic.” The trigger itself isn’t the issue, but, rather, our tendencies and how we use it become the issue. Any time you have a trigger involved in activating the release you are inducing the conscious desire to fire the arrow when the pin is over the dot. Most people have a very hard time both aiming with the front half and executing a command shot with the back half. Trying to do both can lead to target panic. Target panic can be explained as the learned connection between the eye, brain and our release hand—the eye sees the pin cross the target, the brain triggers the fire reflex and the finger punches the trigger. Over time, we begin to anticipate the shot and that causes anxiety and flinching. Then, to ease the anxiety, subconsciously, we begin to aim and freeze outside of the intended target. Whatever the case the symptoms are the same: freezing off target, inconsistent shooting and flinching. If you want to continue shooting an index finger release you may need to rethink how you have it set up and how you shoot it.

Overall, index finger releases are easy to use, economical, and allow you to execute a shot quickly when you need to, but you may have to learn or relearn to shoot it a bit differently to get the most out of it. If you are dealing with target panic issues, check out the Tru-Fire Panic X release in the goHUNT Gear Shop which is specifically designed to help with that issue.

Let’s talk about the different index finger options. We carry several models of the Carter index finger releases: the Lucky, Quickie 1 Plus, and the Rx1. All three have hook style heads, which are great in a hunting situation because they are simple and quiet to “hook” to your D-loop. The Spot Hogg Wise Guy release is similar with a hook design head. Each of those offers something slightly different: trigger shape/angle, size of the head and trigger tension adjustability.

We also carry several closed jaw type releases. Obviously, one advantage of those is that your D-loop is enclosed and there is no way it can come out other than opening it with the trigger. The Scott Echo and Recon are excellent options as is the Hot Shot Nano, which is near the $50 to $100 price point.

You will also notice that several of the index releases have nylon straps that connect the body of the release to the wrist strap itself. These nylon straps can easily be adjusted in length to find the best fit for each archer regardless of hand size. They also are flexible, allowing for some variations in anchor point and reducing torque. The downfall of these is that they can flop around a bit. We also carry some solid arm options like the Scott Recon, Rhino or Spot Hogg Wise Guy. Those are rigid or may offer a fold back locking option to keep them back when you don’t need them. The point of this type of release is that it won’t flop around and you’ll easily have it in your hand when you need it. Personally, I prefer the nylon strap types because of the adjustability it provides, but it truly is a personal preference.

Handheld thumb trigger/button releases

I’ve often heard this type of release referred to a “thumb button.” Whether you want to call it a button or trigger, it’s the same thing. Essentially, it’s a handheld release that is activated by pulling the trigger with your thumb. Handheld thumb trigger releases seem to be growing in popularity with hunters, perhaps bleeding over from their prominence among target archers. There are some pros for handheld thumb releases. For one, I personally find that they are easier and more consistent to anchor with. The hand position utilized with a handheld release allows me to split my jaw bone between my first and second finger/knuckle. It provides an easy, comfortable, and more consistent repeatable anchor point than an index finger release. If you feel like your anchor point floats and has some inconsistencies, a handheld release can help solidify your anchor point. Most handheld releases also have closed jaw clasps that are handy when you are sitting in a tree stand or ambush hunting. Simply close the release over your D-loop and it’s hooked up and ready to go anytime you grab it. Your draw hand is free to use an elk call or stick in your jacket pocket on a cold morning.

I often overhear other bowhunters state that are switching to a thumb release so they can deal with their tendencies to punch the trigger on an index finger release. If you do it, switching releases can provide you the opportunity to relearn how to activate your release, but what I often see is that people pick up a handheld thumb release and start to punch the trigger on it, too. Target panic issues can continue or start just as easy with a handheld thumb trigger release as they do with an index finger release. This can be one negative of a thumb release unless you do some research and learn how to shoot a thumb release with back tension and relaxation through the hand, wrist, and draw arm. Another negative with a handheld release is that you have to keep track of it since it’s not attached to you although most do have a hole that you can attach a wrist tether to. One other potential downside is that many thumb releases have an audible click when the clasp is closed; however, the click is typically not loud enough to disturb an animal within range. One final negative is that in comparison to index finger releases, handheld thumb releases are quite expensive. A good thumb release can cost you a couple hundred dollars.

All around, thumb releases are great for target archery and hunting, but, if you decide to try one out, I would recommend that you take the opportunity to learn to properly shoot with one so that target panic issues don’t continue or develop. One of my favorite thumb releases is the Carter Chocolate Addiction. It has tons of adjustability, including trigger tension, trigger travel, and trigger location.

Hinge style releases

Another type of release is the hinge release or what some may refer to it as a back tension release. It’s the type of release you may have tried to use and punched yourself in the mouth with as it went off halfway through your draw circle. It’s intimidating to a lot of us, but, in reality, it’s fairly basic and user-friendly with some tips and practice. A hinge is basically a handheld release that does not have a trigger and is only activated by the slight backward rotation of the release. When the handle rotates, it causes a searing mechanism to slip and the hook opens and the bow fires.

So how do you shoot a hinge release and why would you?

When you draw your bow with a hinge release, you draw with the weight on your index finger with very little tension on the rest of your fingers. You wrap your thumb around the thumb peg, utilizing the thumb peg as leverage to help you pull back. When you settle into your anchor point and begin your aiming process you will begin to pull through with your rhomboid back muscles, squeezing your draw arm shoulder blade back while relaxing your release hand, wrist and arm. As tension builds, the angle of the release changes, the sear slips, and the string fires. The major benefit of learning to shoot a hinge release is that it allows you to develop a subconscious surprise release. This might not sound like that much of a benefit, but, in essence, what you are doing is removing one variable from the equation and leaving only one thing to focus on…aiming! A hinge release can be a great tool for getting over target panic, but, once again, it will require commitment and learning to shoot one properly. Like the handheld thumb releases, a handheld hinge release also helps to establish a solid repeatable anchor point.

Most top-tier target archers shoot a hinge release, but what about hunting with one?

I personally hunt with a hinge release and have for the past eight years. I had a bad case of panic and I almost quit archery all together. Fortunately, with the help of a friend, I learned to shoot a hinge and have rarely shot anything since. I will say that a hinge is not ideal in all hunting situations. For example, executing a very precisely timed shot is not as easy as it might be with a thumb or index finger release. Hinge releases are also handheld, which means that you have to keep track of it. It’s not as common to have a hole drilled in one to attach a wrist tether to and even on the ones that do I don’t find it comfortable to shoot with a wrist tether. So I carry it in my pack hip pocket and I absolutely have to keep track of it. Most hinges are a hook head design, which is great for quiet and quick hook-up to a D-loop, but I also can’t hang it from a D-loop like you can with many of the handheld thumb releases. So why shoot one for hunting? The best answer as to why I hunt with one is because I believe it helps me execute my best shot. Here’s an example: I was already at full draw on a 330” class bull in Wyoming when I used a cow chirp to stop him. His head swiveled, staring a hole in me as I stood out in wide open space. As my pins floated around on his vitals my inner voice was screaming, “Shoot! Shoot now! He’s going to run!” But I didn’t then; my body did exactly what it had done thousands of times, tension built, the release was a surprise when it went off and I watched the arrow hit exactly where I wanted it to. I watched the bull go down within a hundred yards. I don’t know if the outcome would have been the same had I rushed the shot. Hinge releases may not be for everybody, especially for hunting, but they are a good tool for learning a tension activated release and as a means of dealing with target panic. If you learn to shoot one and become very very comfortable with one, I personally feel that they are great for hunting and will help you make the best shot when it really counts.

Tension or resistance releases

The last release I will touch one is a tension or resistance activated release. It’s similar to a hinge, but has a built-in safety mechanism that allows you to draw the bow without fear of it firing. The Carter Evolution Plus is an example of this type of release and we just added it to our Gear Shop. It also feels more like a traditional handheld thumb trigger release and is an awesome training tool for transitioning to a thumb release. The Evolution does not have a trigger and you can’t punch it. The Evolution is fired by increasing resistance, meaning you must pull through the release for it to fire.

If you look at the Evolution, it appears to have a trigger, but that peg where the trigger typically is on a handheld release is actually a safety that allows you to draw the bow without fear that the bow will misfire. Once you get to full draw, you find your anchor point, take your thumb off the safety and then begin to execute your shot by pulling and building pressure on the back wall of your draw until the release fires. You can set up the Evolution at roughly five to seven pounds over your hold weight at full draw. This will allow you to release your thumb off the safety, and then build pressure to make the release go off. This type of release is truly a game changer for archers who are struggling with target panic or even archers who just want to progress and improve their shooting abilities. It can be frustrating when you initially make the switch. The most common feedback I get is that the release seems to fire sometimes and at other times the archer cannot get it to go off no matter how hard they feel like they are pulling into the backwall. In those cases, the issue is not the release; rather, it is an inconsistency with the shooter. If you will commit to it and learn to shoot it and execute the shot the same way every time, it can be a very helpful tool. In due time, it allows you to develop a subconscious, smooth, surprise release, which, in turn, grants you the opportunity to focus only on aiming. There are not many who use an Evolution for hunting, but I do know a few who have gotten proficient enough that they feel comfortable to hunt with it. Most hunters are using the Evolution to learn to shoot with back tension and then switching to a thumb trigger release to hunt. A handheld thumb release like the Carter Chocolate Addiction or the Hot Shot Vapor can be used in the same manner as the Evolution by seating the barrel of the thumb trigger on your thumb and then utilizing a relaxed hand, forearm, bicep and back tension to pull through the release to activate it. An Evolution resistance release is a great tool for any bowhunter.

In conclusion

Every archer is on a different spectrum when it comes to their experience and goals. Hopefully, everyone that reads this will find some value and direction that will help them take the next step in their progression and find a release that will help get them there.

Painting your goose decoys can be done with a few supplies and a little learning.

Let me make this SUPER easy for you to do by following my step-by-step directions on how to paint goose decoys.

Many people have used these instructions to make decoys that looked like they should have been thrown away to look brand new and ready to hunt over once again.

Supplies Needed

• Earth brown flat non-reflective spray paint
• Khaki flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black flat non-reflective spray paint
• Black Flat oil based paint
• White Flat oil based paint
• Small paint brush
• Painters tape/masking tape
• Box cutter/knife
• Disposable/plastic gloves (optional)

Step 1: Clean and dry the decoys.

Step 2: Apply painter’s tape/masking tape covering the white tail feather area.

Step 3-11: Instantly download/view my complete FREE step-by-step instructions by clicking the button below.

Setting Up Your Painting Area

When it comes to prepping your workstation for your decoys, you should choose a space in the home that is free of traffic. Paint fumes can also be hazardous, so ensure the room or area has enough ventilation.

This will ensure that you are not disturbed throughout the process. You can set up your station on a big enough table and place some newspaper or material down so that you don’t stain your table.

Ensure that the tape is big enough to place your decoys, paint cans, brushes, and any other tools you are using for painting and that you have all of your tools on hand before beginning the process.

Also, ensure that the area is free of any dust and debris that could be get stuck to the paint and affect the finish on the painted decoys.

Using Masking Tape To Protect Areas

Masking tape is going to come in extremely handy in this process. The masking tape will be used to cover the right side feather area, the whitetail feather area as well as the white ring around the decoy neck.

Start by applying a 1/4 inch masking tape covering these three areas after you have cleaned and dried the decoys, but before you begin painting.

What Type Of Colors Should You Pick?

When it comes to painting a goose decoy, you should note that a goose can be any color from completely gray to completely white.

Male geese are also born with bright orange beaks, and the females have a brown beaks. As both of the sexes mature, the males will grow white feathers and keep the orange beak, and the females will grow gray feathers, and the beak will also change to orange.

So when it comes to choosing the colors for your decoys, bear this information in mind.

What Type Of Pattern Should You Go For?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you want them to look as realistic as possible. So this is the time that you need to make reference to the photo that you are referencing to paint decoys.

You want to add details to make them look realistic as well, and if the chest feathers are a different color than the body, then you need to use that specific color of paint across the chest at this time.

Ultimately, try to stick to the details of real geese and ensure that they look natural and realistic as much as you can. Although you may want to add some of your own creativity, if it means taking away from the realism of your decoy, then don’t do it.

Is There A Color Difference In Geese Based On Gender?

In most breeds, both the male and female geese look alike. So it’s quite difficult to tell them apart. In most cases, though, the goose is darker than the gander.

This is even evident when they are still quite small, and as they grow, most geese will resemble the Toulouse color while the gander will resemble the Emden.

How To Apply The Paint

When it comes down to deciding whether to spray paint your decoy or paint it with a brush, it all boils down to personal preference.

While some people may find it easier to spray-paint their decoys, others believe that they get more accuracy out of a paintbrush.

The good news is that there is no rule that says that you need to use either one or the other, and you can choose to use both.

When it comes to coloring larger areas of the goose, a spray can do the trick. However, when it comes to adding detail and painting areas such as the tail, feathers, or beak, using a specific-size paintbrush will give you more detail and accuracy.

Spray

Spray cans can be used for larger areas.

Brush

A paintbrush will help you achieve more detail.

How Long Should The Paint Dry?

If you are applying a primer, you should allow it to dry for approximately 20 minutes before adding paint. When painting, allow the paint 10 to 20 minutes of drying time is required before you apply another coat.

If you are using spray paint, then it’s going to dry quicker, and you’ll need approximately 10 minutes in order for it to dry completely.

When it comes to painting the beak, it is recommended that you use acrylic paint and allow it to dry for 10 minutes before applying any additional coats.

How Long Before You Can Deploy The Decoy To The Field?

Depending on whether you are using spray paint or paintbrushes to finish off your decoys, it can take anywhere between 1 to 3 hours before you use it.

So once you’ve completed painting the decoy, set it on a flat surface so it can dry consistently.

You should check on it 2 to 3 hours later, and if the paint is completely dry, then you are ready to set your decoy out in the woods and use it as you please.

Will Geese Be Able To Tell The Difference Based On Smell?

When it comes to painting your goose decoys, you should do it well in advance. This will give the paint enough time to dry thoroughly and also get the smell of paint fumes off the decoys.

However, as long as the decoys look realistic, that is no reason why geese will not commit.

Should You Apply Coatings To Make Your Paint Last Longer?

Yes, there is no rule that says that you cannot use extra coats of paint on your decoys to ensure that the paint lasts longer. However, it is recommended that you only purchase a satin finish, latex paint.

This is because satin-finish does not contain any type of gloss and is the right sheen for painting decoys.

Ultimately, if you invest in any type of paint or say a high gloss paint, it’s going to make your decoys look shiny, and unless you’ve seen a shiny goose, this is sure to make other geese flare instead of committing.

So if you want to avoid this from happening, ensure that the paint you use on your decoys looks as natural to the real thing as possible.

You Might Also Read: Duck Hunting Decoy Tips

Hunting is a thrilling outdoor activity enjoyed by many enthusiasts. Whether you’re a seasoned hunter or a novice, prioritizing your safety is essential when venturing into the wilderness. By taking certain precautions, you can ensure a safe and enjoyable hunting experience. In this guide, we will explore crucial points to keep yourself protected while hunting.

Proper Planning and Preparation

Before heading out for a hunting expedition, thorough planning and preparation are key. Start by familiarizing yourself with local hunting regulations and obtaining the necessary permits. Research the specific rules and regulations for the area you plan to hunt in, as they may vary depending on the location and the type of game you intend to pursue. Study maps of the hunting area to understand its topography, potential hazards, and legal boundaries.

It is also important to inform someone reliable about your trip, including your expected return time and the location where you will be hunting. Provide them with relevant contact information and instructions on what to do in case they don’t hear from you within a reasonable timeframe. Additionally, carry a means of communication like a mobile phone or a two-way radio to stay in touch with others if needed.

Dress Appropriately

Choosing the right attire is vital for both comfort and safety during a hunting trip. Opt for clothing that provides effective camouflage and blends well with the natural environment in which you will be hunting. Consider the predominant colors and patterns of the landscape during the season you plan to hunt. This will help you remain undetected by your game.

Ensure your attire includes bright-colored elements, such as an orange hat or vest, to enhance visibility to other hunters in the vicinity. This is particularly important to avoid any mistaken identity accidents. 

Additionally, for those seeking an extra layer of protection, considering the use of a bulletproof vest can be a worthwhile option. While not commonly utilized in standard hunting scenarios, bulletproof vests can provide an added level of safety in specific situations where there may be a higher risk of accidental discharge or when hunting in areas where firearms are more prevalent. You can get more information from https://bulletproofsupplystore.com/, but generally, bulletproof vests are designed to absorb and distribute the impact of bullets, reducing the risk of serious injury. Consult local laws and regulations regarding the use of bulletproof vests during hunting activities and consider professional advice to choose a vest that suits your specific needs.

Handling Firearms Responsibly

Firearm safety is of utmost importance when hunting. Always treat firearms as if they are loaded, even when you are certain they are not. Familiarize yourself with the specific features and operation of your firearm, whether it’s a rifle, shotgun, or bow, and ensure it is in proper working condition before every hunting trip. Regularly inspect your weapon to check for any signs of wear or malfunction.

When transporting firearms, always follow local laws and regulations. Ensure they are unloaded, securely stored, and properly cased or holstered. When handling firearms during the hunt, maintain the barrel pointed in a safe direction, away from yourself and others. Never place your finger on the trigger until you are ready to shoot. Remember, proper firearm safety practices are critical to preventing accidents and ensuring the well-being of everyone involved.

Be Aware of Your Surroundings

Maintaining awareness of your surroundings is crucial for your safety while hunting. Regularly scan the area for other hunters, as their presence may not always be immediately apparent. Communication is key in such situations, so consider using a whistle or other agreed-upon signals to alert nearby hunters of your presence.

Before taking a shot, always positively identify your target and what lies beyond it. It is essential to have a clear line of sight to your target without any obstructions that could cause a bullet or arrow to deviate from its intended path. 

Avoid wearing headphones or engaging in activities that may distract you from your environment. Be cautious of potential obstacles like fallen trees, uneven terrain, or wildlife that may pose a threat. By remaining vigilant and alert, you can reduce the risk of accidents and ensure the safety of yourself and others.

First Aid and Emergency Preparedness

No matter how careful you are, accidents can still happen. Therefore, it is crucial to carry a well-equipped first aid kit and have a basic understanding of first aid techniques. Your first aid kit should include items such as bandages, adhesive tape, antiseptic wipes, tweezers, and any necessary prescription medications. It’s also a good idea to carry a compact manual that provides instructions on basic first aid procedures.

Learn how to treat common hunting injuries like cuts, sprains, or burns. Understand the signs and symptoms of more serious conditions, such as hypothermia or heat exhaustion, and know how to respond accordingly. Additionally, include essential items like a flashlight, whistle, and compass in your survival kit. These tools can be invaluable in emergencies or when unexpected situations arise.

Familiarize yourself with basic survival skills such as building a shelter, starting a fire, and finding sources of potable water. While these skills may not be necessary for most hunting trips, knowing them can provide added confidence and security. Stay up-to-date with weather forecasts and be prepared for sudden changes in weather conditions.

Hunting is an exhilarating outdoor activity that allows us to connect with nature and challenge our skills. However, ensuring our safety should always be the top priority. By following the points outlined in this guide – proper planning, appropriate attire, responsible firearm handling, situational awareness, maintaining hydration and nourishment, and being prepared for emergencies – you can significantly minimize the risks associated with hunting.

Have you ever landed a fish you’ve never caught before then sat there staring at in the net wondering how you’re supposed to lift it up for the picture, or even how to release it?

WHY IS THERE A PROPER WAY TO HOLD FISH?

Holding a fish properly isn’t just for the benefit of the fish, it also keeps the angler safe. All fish, toothless or not, have defence mechanisms built-in. Whether its a bass with an effectively sharp dorsal fin, or walleye, pike, and muskie with their teeth, all fish can pose a threat to you as the angler. But- with proper holds there is little to no concern in handling them for a photo, releasing them, or even putting them into the live well if you’re planning on keeping them.

Times have changed, and our education towards fishing as our resource has also changed. With the growing recognition of CPR (Catch, Photo, and Release) lodge owners are embracing it. Some lodges won’t even post photos of fish being held improperly, so your trophy fish may not be shared or celebrated as it should be!

The reason lodges and fishing pages don’t post improper holds in photos is that in order for CPR to be successful, fish handling has to be done properly.

Have no fear!

Learning how to hold fish is certainly better done with hands-on practice. But this article will give you the bare-bones, easy to remember approach on handling each fish species that dwell in Sunset Country’s waters! To read more about why, scroll to the bottom of the article!

UNHOOKING FISH

Once you have the fish in the net, take a breath! Having the fish in the net keeps it wet, lively and breathing, giving you time to organize yourself. Pliers are optional and certainly encouraged.

By using pliers you can keep your bare hands free of the hooks and any hazards on the fish, ie, prickly spines. Once you’ve successfully unhooked the fish, take the lure out of the net, taking the time to secure it back onto the rod will keep the workspace even safer. So long as the fishes head is underwater in the net, you can remove rushing from the picture, that’s how mistakes are made.

Once you have hooks clear of the net and away from where you’ll be posing, get the camera out before you even think about lifting the fish out of the water. This way you’re all set for a couple of photos, and a seamless release- which you can capture on camera too!

HOW TO HOLD DIFFERENT SPECIES

Not all fish were created equally which means you’ll hold some of them differently than others. Don’t let this discourage you, all holds are simple and effective.

BASS

Both bass species are one of the few you won’t get much flack for holding vertically. They are also one of the easiest to hold because they can be “lipped,” or held directly from the mouth.

Like all larger fish of each species though, some extra care is required for heavier ones and the fish certainly won’t complain about having some extra help staying healthy.

Here are a couple of hold examples for bass:

This vertical hold is perfectly safe for this bass. They aren’t cranking its jaw and forcing the head to hold the body on an angle, it’s just straight up and down. This hold is also acceptable for crappie, largemouth bass, perch and other small panfish like sunfish.

The horizontal hold below is an excellent example of how to support a larger bass, crappie, or even perch. It also adds a different angle and makes it easier to take horizontal photos, instead of only verticals!

WALLEYE

Similar to bass, you can hold smaller walleye vertically without causing any harm, but you certainly do NOT want to “lip” them as they have some impressive teeth.

Below, Jeff Gustafson explains how the gill plate hold on walleye whether horizontally or vertically helps with catch and release as well as making your photographs look better!

NORTHERN PIKE AND MUSKIE

Perhaps the most intimidating of our fish species in Sunset Country is the Esox family of northern pike and muskie. It’s important to understand how to handle pike because they are especially common in these waters and odds are you’ll be unhooking a lot of them.

All fish deserve our respect, but perhaps the species requiring the most special care is the muskie. These fish grow LARGE. Which means they are especially subject to weight-bearing in the wrong places if held improperly. They may be the apex predator in the water, but when they are removed from their environment the saying “the bigger they are the harder they fall” is very much relevant.

The gill hold is very important to understand for holding pike and muskie. Not only will it protect the fish, but it’ll also protect you and your hands. If done properly, no gloves are necessary.

Here are the steps to make it simple:

1. Following the gill line to the bottom of the pike or muskies head, slide your index finger inside and underneath the jaw of the fish (much like you watched in the walleye video above)

2. Once you know you’re tight to the bottom of the fishes mouth and away from the gills, allow the rest of your fingers to slide in as well next to your index finger

3. Keeping your thumb outside of the mouth in the notch of the bottom jaw, you’ll be able to clamp down onto your index and other fingers inside the mouth of the fish.

4. Once their head is securely in your hands, lift them out of the net and support them horizontally by securing your other hand under their belly like the photos above.

LAKE TROUT/BROOK TROUT

Depending on the trout’s size and species, gill hold may or may not be acceptable. Large lake trout can be held by the gills with their weight supported, but a hold that will give you a more secure hold on their powerful tail may be mistaken for playing air guitar.

This “guitar hold” works for brook trout as well. Using your dominant hand (seems to work best for most) wrap your hand around their tail, with your other hand support the space between their pectoral (front) fins. Tucking your hands underneath will assure your fish looks great, but will also stop you from accidentally strangling the fish. The photo above shows both options for the non-dominant hand, the angler on the left is choosing to wrap her hands around, but keeping control of them not to choke or injure the fish. The angler on the right is tucking her hands below the fish, simply supporting the weight.

DON’T FEEL CONFIDENT YET?

Like with all things learning, practice really does make perfect. You can’t be expected to learn these perfectly the first time. The holds covered above are all focused on what will give you the most confidence, but you may find other proper ways to handle fish.

If you’d like to learn more about these holds, you could consider hiring an independent fishing guide for the day. Be clear with your intent to learn more, guides will be more than willing to help educate you on fish holds, tactics, techniques and even how to land them easier!

Here’s more on why it’s important to learn: Let’s say a large fish is held vertically, that large fish has until this point lived its life suspended horizontally almost weightlessly in water. Being hoisted by its jaw or gills (which acts as lungs for the fish) puts a tremendous amount of pressure not only on those areas, but it’s internal organs that have never felt gravity quite like this before. Larger fish held vertically poses a risk to their organs tearing from place and ultimately causing a delayed death after release.

PLAN YOUR TRIP

You’ve mastered landing countless fish, now you want to go for some true trophies! In Sunset Country you can go for walleye, muskie, northern pike, smallmouth and largemouth bass, perch, crappie, lake trout and brook trout.

If you don’t know where to begin, you can search by the species listed above, or check our Accommodation Finder and use filters such as drive-in, fully guided fishing, wheelchair accessible, fly-in outposts, and more!

You can also order our FREE Travel Guide including a pull-out map of the region and our lodges here. Feel free to call us at the Sunset Country office 1-800-665-7567 as well.

Tom Redington travels the United States from the borders of Canada to Mexico fishing for largemouth, smallmouth and spotted bass in everything from shallow muddy rivers to crystal-clear reservoirs hundreds of feet deep.

Whether he’s running 70 mph downstream in his 21-foot Ranger boat or walking the shoreline with his 8-year-old Cub Scout son, he’s found there are key areas where bass can be located quickly.

Here are some of the top areas to search. Not all will have active fish all the time. Try a variety of these places, and you’ll hook up sooner and more consistently than by just randomly wandering about.

CURRENT BREAKS

Bass lurk around objects that block the water current. When prey struggles past while fighting the flow, bass dart out to grab an easy meal. Fallen trees, big rocks, bridge pilings, weed clumps, even garbage like an old chair — if it blocks current, bass dwell around it.

LAYDOWNS

As waves wash away the shore over the years, trees topple into lakes and rivers. Bass typically prefer horizonal cover, especially with overhead protection, and laydowns offer both. Best of all, they are easy to find and you can fish them from a boat or the shore. A small tree might hold a fish or two, while a 60-foot oak can extend out with limbs in every direction holding a whole school of fish.

RIPRAP

On lakes and rivers with soft bottoms like sand, silt or clay, crushed rock is often spread along shorelines to prevent bank erosion. This crushed rock is called “riprap,” and you commonly find it along roads and bridges that cross the water, plus around dams, marinas and homes. All the cracks and gaps in the rocks make ideal hiding and feeding places for crawdads and smaller fish — what bass call an “all-you-can-eat buffet.”

DOCKS

Again, bass love horizontal shelters that provide overhead protection. Sounds like a boat dock! Just look over the side of most any dock and you’ll see little fish swimming all around it. Hungry bass are stalking just out of sight in the shadows below.

AQUATIC VEGETATION

Lily pads, bulrushes, canes, hydrilla, weeds, grass, milfoil, cabbage … some grow up out of the water, some types grow on the surface and others stay underwater. Regardless, if it’s green and in the water, about every link the food chain will be around it. Find grass and you’ll find bass.

POINTS

A point is simply a place along the shoreline where the bank sticks out into the lake. There are two main lake points at the entrance of any creek or cove, and these are great places to try year-round. Especially in the spring and fall, shallower points along the shoreline or at the mouth of small bays or pockets can be dynamite. Some points drop very quickly into deep water, so the bass will be close to shore. Other points have a slower taper and can run hundreds of feet into the lake. Generally, bass will be shallower on points in the spring and fall, or early and late in the day. During summer and winter, especially in the middle of the day, bass hold on the deeper sections of points, anywhere from 10 to 30 feet deep (the clearer the water, the deeper the fish).

• Over the years: Peep sights for improved vision
• How do peep sights improve your vision?
• Wrapping up

Peep sights work by being a small aperture that you look through. The peep sight is attached to the back of a rifle and allows you an improved view – without having to take your eye off the front sight / point of impact .

People who use peep sights on rifles tend to enjoy an enhanced level of vision as well as better accuracy. Simply looking through a peep sight has been found to improve vision by about 5 percent , and this number increases if peep sights are used regularly. This improvement in vision has greatly benefitted hunters who hunt at dawn and duskPeep sights are becoming more popular by the day, especially on lever action rifles, because of the easy installation and more accurate field of vision, as compared to other sights. If rifle peep sights are new to you, it’s advisable to give them a shot before you completely write them off as something that doesn’t work in your favor.

Read ahead to find out more about how peep sights help in not only improving your vision, but also your overall shooting experience!

Over the years: Peep sights for improved vision

In the early days of peep sights, hunters used peep sights on rifles to help them shoot more accurately in low light conditions. Peep sights were found to be very helpful in hunting during twilight hours when the game was most active but the sun had not risen yet or had already set. The aperture in a peep sight collects light and amplifies it as you look through it, which improves your ability to see your target in dim conditions.

People have long known peep sights to improve vision, so peep sights on riflesare widely used across the world. This improvement in vision is especially useful when aiming at targets during low light-time, or hunting during twilight hours.

However, although peep sight installation on rifles is becoming more popular than ever, some shooters are still hesitant to use peep sights because they’ve never tried them before or do not understand how peep sights work and how they improve vision.

How do peep sights improve your vision?

Rifle peep sights greatly improve daylight vision, as well as work well in low light conditions – which has helped many shooters hit their mark with greater ease than ever before. Peep sight usage is becoming more popular every day among rifle owners who would like an easy way to improve their ability to see targets when shooting at night or in twilight hours.

The benefits of installing peep sights on your rifle are many and varied, but the ability to see your target more clearly in low light conditions is one of the most important reasons to install peep sights on your rifle.

Peep sights also don’t obstruct the target as much as other types of rifle sight due to their sleek design and peep sight installation is easy to do. Additionally, the wide field of view that peep sights offer makes it easy for shooters to follow the action and keep track of their targets.

Even in low light conditions, peep sights will help you see the target more clearly so you can make that perfect shot. Some good examples of peep sights are the Marlin 1894 peep sights and 1895 peep sights.

The merits of installing peep sights on your rifle:

1) Peep sights don’t magnify the target like telescopic sights do, which can be a benefit or a drawback depending on the shooter’s preference.

2) Peep sights don’t require batteries to operate as telescopic sights do.

3) Peep sights handle recoil better than telescopic sights do.

4) Peep sights offer a wider field of view than telescopic and prismatic sights.

5) Peep sights are easy to use, even for beginners.

6) Peep sights are an excellent choice for all types of competitive shooting.

7) Peep sights work well in low light conditions, making them perfect for hunting at twilight hours.

8) Peep sight installation is simple and easy to do; and they work on many different types of rifles without needing tools for installation.

Moving ahead, let’s get a better insight into how to use a peep sight on a rifle, and what’s the way to pick the best fit.

How do I pick the right peep sight for my rifle?

1) Determine the peep sight aperture size you need for low light (smaller) or full light shooting (larger).

2) Decide on a peep sight mount style that will work best with your firearm model and shooting preferences.

3) Determine peep sight windage and elevation settings to align with your front sight..

4) Check customer reviews of peep sights from reputable brands to ensure quality is up to par before you buy.

5) Once you have chosen the peep sight that you want to purchase, make sure to measure the size of your rifle’s existing rear sight aperture and order a peep sight that is the same size or larger.

6) If your rifle does not have a rear sight aperture, choose a peep sight with a built-in aperture ring that fits the diameter of your barrel.

7) Some peep sights come with interchangeable aperture rings in different sizes for shooters who want to customize their sighting system.

8) Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for peep sight installation.

9) Test your new peep sight at an outdoor shooting range before taking it on a hunt. Sight in your rifle with the new peep sight to make sure the shots are landing where you expect them to.

Wrapping up

At the end of the day, peep sights are a great choice for shooters and work to greatly improve their vision when shooting in low-light conditions. Whether peep sight installation is right for you depends on your preferences, but you’re sure to go home with dinner if you’ve installed peep sights on the rifle you’re using.

Moreover, peep sights are a great way to improve your vision when shooting in low light conditions, and they offer several other benefits that make them a better choice than other sighting systems. Whether you’re a hunter, shooter, or gun enthusiast, peep sights are worth considering as an upgrade to your rifle.

Happy Shooting!

California monarchs

Q: Are there two populations of monarch butterflies in California?

A: The bottom line is that it’s unclear, but we continue to track the research, as we are responsible for their conservation and successful migration.

In addition to the declining population of migratory western monarch butterflies, scientists are seeing an increase in resident monarchs that breed year-round. Resident monarchs have been reported in higher numbers in coastal areas from San Diego to the San Francisco Bay Area. Historically, the migratory monarch population overwintered in coastal groves from October to March. During the rest of the year, monarchs migrated and bred throughout states west of the Rocky Mountains. In the past, winter breeding may have occurred at a low level. However, over the past few years it has expanded concurrent with the decline of the migratory population. A 2021 scientific study estimated that there were approximately 12,000 resident monarchs — more than six times the remaining migratory population.

Scientists are currently looking into which factors are influencing the transition to year-round breeding. One hypothesis is that the expansion of nonnative tropical milkweed (Asclepias curassavica) in home gardens may induce winter breeding. Climate change could also play a role as warmer winter weather exposes monarchs to temperatures that can cause them to break reproductive diapause early.

It is unclear whether resident monarchs represent a separate population from the migratory population or if there is intermixing. If they are distinct populations, questions remain over whether the resident and migratory populations can persist side by side. Finally, scientists are still trying to determine if the transition to year-round breeding represents a persistent trend or is a short-term adaptation to local conditions.

As a trustee agency, the California Department of Fish and Wildlife (CDFW) is tasked with protecting California’s flora and fauna, including terrestrial invertebrates like monarch butterflies for their ecological value and enjoyment by the public. California Fish and Game Code (FGC) section 1021 directs CDFW to “take feasible actions to conserve monarch butterflies and the unique habitats they depend upon for successful migration.”

Turkey hunting guides

Q: I’m a fairly inexperienced turkey hunter but I’m interested in learning more this fall. Other than word-of-mouth, do you have any suggestions on how (and where) I might find a good guide?

A: Yes! CDFW maintains a list of licensed guides for both hunting and fishing. You can find the list on our website, and sort by services offered, species targeted and/or county, as well as by name or permit number if you’re looking for a particular guide. Guided hunts are often worth the investment for new hunters – you’re paying for their shared knowledge and experience, and it greatly increases your chances of a successful outing! Good luck!

Lake and streambed alteration

Q: My neighbor is dumping dirt in the creek by our home. Is this legal?

A: It might be. California Fish and Game Code (FGC) section 1602(a) requires notification to CDFW of any activity that would substantially alter the bed, bank or channel of a river, stream or lake, or dispose of material where it could enter into a river, stream or lake. Therefore, it would be illegal for your neighbors to alter the creek bed by your home without notifying CDFW. CDFW requires a Lake and Streambed Alteration (LSA) Agreement when a project activity may substantially adversely affect fish and wildlife resources. For more information, please visit CDFW’s LSA Program online.

FGC section 5650 outlines prohibitions on water pollution including discharge of any of the following into California waterways:

(1) Any petroleum, acid, coal or oil tar, lampblack, aniline, asphalt, bitumen, or residuary product of petroleum, or carbonaceous material or substance.

(2) Any refuse, liquid or solid, from any refinery, gas house, tannery, distillery, chemical works, mill, or factory of any kind.

(3) Any sawdust, shavings, slabs, or edgings.

(4) Any factory refuse, lime, or slag.

(5) Any cocculus indicus.

(6) Any substance or material deleterious to fish, plant life, mammals, or bird life.

If you believe you have witnessed an environmental crime, you should document the incident(s) via CalTip: wildlife.ca.gov/Enforcement/CalTIP. Other agencies, including local government entities, the Regional Water Quality Control Board and Army Corps of Engineers, to name a few, may also have legal authority over these activities.

Bag vs. possession limit

Q: What’s the difference between a bag limit and possession limit? Is the possession limit always double the bag limit?

A: “Bag limit” is defined in California Fish and Game Code (FGC), section 18 as the maximum limit, in number or amount, of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles or amphibians that may lawfully be taken by any one person during a specified period of time. “Possession limit” is defined in FGC, section 19 as the maximum, in number or amount, of birds, mammals, fish, reptiles, or amphibians that may be lawfully possessed by one person.

The answer to your second question is no, the possession limit is not always double the bag limit. Possession limit and bag limit are frequently different, so it’s crucial to consult the appropriate regulations for the fish, game or other species you are attempting to take. As an example, during waterfowl season the daily bag limit is seven ducks. The possession limit for ducks is triple the daily bag limit so a hunter can legally possess 21 ducks.

CDFW Photo

In the world of archery, choosing the best bow brand is paramount to your success. Whether you’re a seasoned archer or a beginner looking for their first compound bow, the quality of your bow can significantly impact your accuracy, performance, and overall enjoyment of the sport. In this article, we’ll guide you through our expert recommendations for the top compound bow manufacturers in the market today.

These bows offer unparalleled craftsmanship, cutting-edge technology, and precision engineering, ensuring you have the best equipment to elevate your archery game.

The 10 Best Bow Brands

Sorted By Average Price – Highest To Lowest

1. Mathews Archery: Precision Perfected

Mathews Archery has earned a well-deserved reputation for crafting some of the most accurate and reliable compound bows in the industry. Their dedication to precision engineering is evident in their patented Single Cam Technology, which provides archers with a smooth draw cycle and exceptional accuracy. Whether you’re a target shooter or a hunter, Mathews Archery has a bow that suits your needs, making them a standout choice for discerning archers.

2. Hoyt: Tradition Meets Technology

Hoyt Archery seamlessly blends tradition with cutting-edge technology. As one of the oldest and most respected names in archery, Hoyt has a legacy of producing high-quality bows that have stood the test of time. Their innovative designs, such as the modular cam system, give archers the flexibility to fine-tune their bows for optimal performance. When you choose a Hoyt bow, you’re not just investing in a piece of equipment; you’re becoming part of a storied tradition of excellence.

3. Bowtech: Pioneering Innovation

Bowtech is a name synonymous with innovation. With a rich history of pushing boundaries and setting new standards, Bowtech has consistently delivered top-tier bows that cater to a wide range of archers. Their commitment to quality and performance shines through in every product they offer. From the accuracy of their Binary Cam System to the adjustability of their bows, Bowtech’s dedication to excellence sets them apart from the competition.

4. Elite Archery: Precision Redefined

Elite Archery takes pride in redefining precision in the hunting crowd. Their commitment to detail and craftsmanship is unmatched, resulting in bows that deliver unparalleled accuracy and consistency. Elite’s unique shoot-through riser design minimizes torque and vibration, giving archers the edge they need to excel. If you demand nothing but the best in terms of precision, Elite Archery is the brand to consider.

5. Prime Archery: Innovative Excellence

Prime Archery is known for its innovative approach to bow design. They’ve introduced the Centergy Technology, which optimizes balance and stability for shooters. Prime bows are highly customizable, allowing archers to fine-tune their equipment to their exact preferences. If you’re looking for a bow that combines innovation with precision, Prime Archery is a brand worth exploring.

6. Obsession Bows: Precision Meets Passion

Obsession Bows is a brand that embodies the passion of archery enthusiasts. Their bows are meticulously crafted to deliver unmatched precision and consistency. The Obsession Hybrid Cam System offers a perfect blend of speed and accuracy, making them ideal for both target shooters and hunters. If you’re looking for a bow that’s born out of a deep love for archery, Obsession Bows is the choice for you.

7. Bear Archery: Time-Tested Quality

Bear Archery is a name that resonates with archers who appreciate time-tested quality. With a heritage dating back to the early 20th century, Bear Archery has a legacy of producing bows that combine durability, performance, and affordability. Their Bear EAZ Cam System ensures a smooth draw and consistent accuracy, making them a favorite among bowhunters. When you choose a Bear Archery bow, you’re choosing a piece of history that will serve you faithfully.

8. PSE Archery: Affordable Excellence

For those seeking a balance between performance and affordability, PSE Archery is a standout choice. They’ve consistently delivered bows that provide exceptional value without compromising on quality. PSE’s commitment to innovation is evident in their Evolve Cam System, which offers impressive speed and accuracy. If you’re an archer on a budget but refuse to compromise on performance, PSE Archery has the perfect solution.

9. Mission Bows: Unmatched Versatility

For archers who a more affordable option, Mission bows offers a range of versatile and dependable options. Their bows are engineered for accuracy and durability, making them a favorite among hunters. With adjustable draw lengths and exceptional build quality, Mission provide archers with the tools they need to succeed in the field.

10. Diamond Archery: Tradition with a Twist

Diamond Archery is an American archery manufacturer based in Eugene, Oregon. They are known for their high-quality bows that are designed for both beginners and experienced archers. Diamond bows are known for being easy to use and adjust, making them a great choice for people of all ages and skill levels.

Diamond Archery offers a wide range of bows, from youth bows to high-performance target bows. They also offer a variety of accessories, such as arrows, sights, and stabilizers.

The Worst Bow Brands

Cabela’s & Bass Pro Shops Bows

When it comes to bows, I would stay away from any Cabela’s/Bass pro branded option.

Of course, most of the time retailers have their products made by a separate manufacturer. In this case, it’s Bear Archery. While these two (and now one) brands, have rotated manufacturers in the past, everything is currently being made by Bear.

Now, there’s nothing wrong with a Bear bow. It’s just the fact that when you look at customer service, as well as small design changes. They aren’t going to be as good as an actual knowledge-holding manufacturer.

My Final Thoughts On Bow Manufacturers

In conclusion, hunters and target shooters have exceptional options from reputable manufacturers. Each of the brands mentioned here has a unique approach to design, innovation, and performance. Your choice ultimately depends on your specific preferences and requirements as an archer. Whether you prioritize precision, affordability, tradition, or innovation, there’s a perfect bow waiting for you among these top manufacturers. Make an informed decision, and you’ll be well on your way to becoming a more skilled and successful archer.The choice of your compound bow can make or break your performance. That’s why it’s crucial to consider these top manufacturers, each known for their unique strengths and innovations. By choosing a bow from one of these esteemed brands, you’ll not only enhance your archery experience but also position yourself for success on the field or at the range.

For a somewhat related subject, take a look at our blog comparing Bows vs. Crossbows!